Novan's journey

France to lure more RI tourists

2008-09-04T10:15:00.001+07:00

France is expecting more Indonesian tourists as the tourism board and the private sector, including airlines and retailers, step up efforts to promote the European country.

Maison de la France, or the French Tourism Board, for example, recently launched a sales kit into the Southeast Asian market so that travel agents can better sell France.

"We expect travel agents can use this kit to give detailed information to prospective guests," the board's Southeast Asia director, Frederic Meyer, told The Jakarta Post recently.

Meyer was speaking during a tour, which also included Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore, where professionals from France met with their Southeast Asian counterparts in order to better sell France.

The workshop with media was held Thursday, while the meeting with travel professionals was held Friday.

In another effort of the French to tap into the Indonesian market, Galeries Lafayette has just launched a map of Paris in Indonesian.

"I have just got the maps from the printers. This maps will be distributed by travel agents to guests who are leaving for France," said marketing and promotion manager Asia Caroline de Maisonneuve.

Both Meyer and de Maisonneuve said it was quite difficult to track the number of Indonesians visiting France due to the presence of the Schengen visa scheme.

"But we know that there at least 13,000 to 14,000 visa requests per year, so there could be some 40,000 Indonesians visiting France," Meyer said.

De Maisonneuve said it was also difficult to track the number of Indonesians visiting Galeries Lafayette stores because there was no specific records unless customers used credit cards or applied for tax deductions.

Gerda Lascombe, international sales manager of Printemps department store, estimated that Indonesians ranked 15th on the number of guests visiting the up-scale establishments.

"The Indonesian average spending is some 500 euros, but this is only from recorded transactions," she said.

"We cannot track those paying in cash and not applying for tax deductions."

The tour also brought representatives from Rail Europe 4A, a joint venture of French and Swiss national railways, and Air France KLM.

Air France does not have a direct route linking Paris with Jakarta, but there is a daily flight to and from Bangkok and Singapore. Another option is using sister company KLM serving Jakarta with Amsterdam via Kuala Lumpur.

First published on The Jakarta Post on Thursday, Sept. 4, 2008

That call

2007-08-21T23:05:00.000+07:00

It was Aug. 5, a Sunday. I was just having lunch at about 3 p.m. at the office when two of my uncles called me. They told me that my father was sick in Cibatu, Garut. They wanted me to go home a.s.a.p.

What?

I just called home (in Bandung) on Saturday and there were no signs that he was ill. I called home right away.

"Bapak is in Cibatu with mother and grand pa," said my younger brother Pitra.

I couldn't get my mom or my grand pa's home in Cibatu. After some more calls, my youngest uncle broke the news.

"Your father has just died."

.....

.....

.....

Finally I got my mom. She broke in tears telling the news over the phone.

While grieving for the loss, I thank God for taking him in Cibatu and not while driving home to Bandung. My parents were about to leave Cibatu when my dad felt a chest pain.

I was told later that it was a swift, sudden death. Most likely caused by a heart attack, presumably painless.

My mom said he could see that my dad's eyes dried up and she saw that final breath.

He was 65. We held the burial service on Monday morning at my mom's family funeral in Cibatu.

Innalillahi wa inna ilaihi roji'un.

Allahumaghfirlahu, warhamhu, wa afini wa fu anhu.

I'm in Changi, again

2006-11-29T22:21:00.000+07:00

Here I am again spending two hours or so in Changi waiting for my next flight.

This time bound for Nagoya to visit Toyota's plant and headquarters on Thursday. Then off to Fukuoka to visit Daihatsu's plant in nearby Oita on Friday. And some shopping. Saturday to Osaka for Universal Studio Japan before leaving for Jakarta via Singapore on Sunday.

Such a hectic schedule. I can't promise you that I will post something so soon.

See ya all.

Welcome to Baqa'a Refugee Camp

2006-11-19T19:19:00.000+07:00

Just came across this blog Welcome to Baqa'a Refugee Camp. It tells about the sufferings of the Palestinians under the heathen Zionist regime.

I wonder what makes the current Great Satan George Wacko Bullshit and all his predecessors pour endless stream of money for this worse-than-Nazi regime.

Once I read that the Great Satan's administration channels US$1.2 billion in military aid and another US$1.8 billion in economy aid to the heathen regime. Not so bad for a leading human rights abuser. Oh btw, the "never bite the hands that feed you" is not applicable as the Zionist regime has several times bitten the hands, if not fully chopped, the Great Satan's hands.

I wish Indonesia could someday exert its prowess by blackmailing the Great Satan's administration in the same way. Well the Great Satan has robbed us of our minerals, no?

It is just pathetic that SBY is willing to play a servant role to the Great Satan. The latest example is the Great Satan's visit on Monday with its excessive security arrangement made forcibly by the Great Satan's Secret Service.

Hmmm, isn't it interesting that Secret Service' abreviation is SS which was also the abbreviation for the feared Nazi special unit Schutztaffel.

Stopping by in Changi

2006-10-30T11:34:00.000+07:00

I have another hour before my flight to Bandar Seri Begawan. Thanks God Changi has plenty of free internet terminals. Food courts. Etc, etc.

While eating Double Rendang from Burger King, I managed to activate the International Roaming features of my Simpati prepaid card. I could send and receive sms but I cannot make any phone calls. Luckily I can receive calls. Got one from Barbara.

As for the Double Rendang burger, it's nothing like the good ol' rendang. Just the sauce/gravy I could recall of something rendang-like. But it;s more like those Indian curry.

I am on a two-week assignment helping pak Rikza and mds to shape up the editorial team of The Brunei Times.

I flew with Garuda Indonesia from Jakarta and will fly Royal Brunei to Bandar Seri Begawan.

It's gonna be a two-week of working hard. But rewarding hehehe.

See ya in Bandar Seri Begawan.

A great loss

2006-10-19T21:00:00.000+07:00

Today I made another trip to Bandung hurriedly as my father-in-law passed away at 10 a.m. He was buried at 2 p.m. at Jatihandap cemetary.

Marhaban ya Ramadhan

2006-09-24T15:40:00.000+07:00

Welcome O Ramadhan.

Today, Muslims in Indonesia started the one-month fasting month during the holy month of Ramadhan.

We are not allowed to eat, drink and have sex from dawn to sunset. Doing these things will cancel your fast of the day. But conforming to this is only the lowest, mere physical level.

The true test is how to be calm, not to be angry easily. We must also take care of our mouth, eyes, ears, heart and the rest of our bodies. While gossipping will not cancel the fast, it will surely ruin it so you fast for nothing but hunger and thirst.

This year all Muslims in Indonesia start the fasting together. But I don't know yet whether we will end it together. An Islamic lunar month may have 29 or 30 days.

There are two ways to determine when a month is started or ended: Hisab or calculating and Rukyah or direct, visual observation of Hilal or the lunar crescent.

You can get more information by visiting Islamic Calendar.

Indonesia have witnessed several times different timing of starting and ending Ramadhan, depending on the way being used by particular groups.

For me, I will just follow the government's announcement.

They say difference is a blessing.

May we all be blessed during Ramadhan this year

TC 1008

2006-09-11T17:27:00.000+07:00

A monument made of a steam locomotive -- with TC 1008 registration number -- outside the south gate of Bandung train station.

Sorry no further info about the maker, make year etc. I will look it up and post it here.

I took the picture several months ago around the time when my son was hospitalized in Bandung in early July.

I had to shuttle between Jakarta and Bandung at that time before taking a leave.

Taking train is a convenient way of travelling despite the presence of Cipularang toll road enabling a two-hour drive by car. Especially when you don't have a car :).

Claiming my blogs with Technorati

2006-09-02T12:50:00.000+07:00

I have just claimed all my four blogs using Technorati.

My three blogs in Blogspot have embedded functions such as search and links using the advanced option. Unfortunately that's not the case with Friendster blog in which I can only use Post Claim.

I learned how to claim my blogs using Technorati when I bumped into Refleksi dan Blog Tutorial while I was browsing Blogger Indonesia A. Fatih Suyud Weblog. So, thanks to both bloggers.

Can't wait to claim my blogs using other engines. See ya

My new baby

2006-02-20T18:18:00.001+07:00

Yamaha Nouvo Z

I bought a Yamaha Nouvo Z on Dec. 29 last year. Why? Well, to offset the skyrocketing fuel prices....

The price is Rp 12.870 million (US$1,395) for cash. I took a one-year installment package with Rp 4 million as down payment and monthly payment of Rp 996,900. The dealer gave me a Rp 1 million discount so I had to pay only Rp 3 million of advance.

In total I will have to pay Rp 13,965,900 by the end of this year. Not bad a bargain.

Previously, I spent Rp 50,000 for taxi a day commuting home-office v.v. Now the same amount lasts about two weeks ....... ;)

(US$1=Rp 9230)

Rearranging postings

2006-02-06T16:58:00.000+07:00

Today I have just rearranged my blogs by back-dating my travel articles taken from The Jakarta Post. Previously they were posted not according to the dates when they were published.

Some of you may see it as cheating but it's for orderly sake.

You can expect some more back-dated postings.

How does it feel to be 33?

2006-02-05T16:57:00.000+07:00

Am I old? Am I young? It can be half empty or half full. Some say I got one year more while others say I got one year less. Suppose that I got 66 years in my life time, this year is already the middle of my life. I have 33 years more to go while last year I had 34 years to go.

Whatever.

And don't expect that I have party as I was stuck in the office uploading the website. What a way to celebrate my birthday.

Well, whether it is one year more or one year less, still plenty of things to do.

Web counter ready to record visitors

2006-02-05T15:56:00.000+07:00

This is just a small announcement that I have put web counter from Free Counter Plus to my Blogspot blogs. The counter is free but it carries a link to an advertiser. You can generate it randomly. Well, there's no such thing as a free lunch in this cruel world. :P

The good thing about this counter is that it has a (basic) site statistics. While the design is basic, it comes in several color schemes to match your blog design.

So, for those who have not use this webcounter, have a try.

Next destination: Muangthai

2006-01-05T17:23:00.000+07:00

I stayed for 180 days in Muangthai last year arriving on March 15 and leaving on Sept. 14. During that six-month period I was working as an assistant editor for the Asia News Network. ANN is hosted by The Nation in its office in Bangna-Trat road, in Bangkok or Krungthep as locals call it.

During my stint there, I visited Greater Bangkok area, Ayutthaya, Pattaya, Khoraat and Kanchanaburi using BTS, subway, public bus, cars and train.

Being a Procrastinator Maximus, what else, I did not post interesting facts and places I saw in Muangthai. Well, as one of my new year resolution, I will post my experience in Muangthai although in a flashback fashion. So, don't get confused :P

Wat Arun, or the Temple of Dawn, one of Krungthep's landmarks and favorite tourist spots.

The Reclining Buddha in Ayutthaya

Prasaad Hin Phimai in Khoraat

A train passing on the Bridge over the River Kwae

HAPPY NEW YEAR

2006-01-03T14:51:00.000+07:00

I wish you all (and me too) a happy and prosperous new year. :)

Now that I have uploaded most of my past articles from TJP, I will do my best to update this blog with other places I have been to.

And also places I want to go to

And places you should go to

Cross your fingers.......

Second posting

2005-05-28T12:17:00.000+07:00

Wah wah wah...... it took me months to post the second items here. I dunno, maybe I was lazy to fill my blog or simply not comfortable yet with this new things. We call it "gatek" or "gagap teknologi" in Bahasa Indonesia. I guess in English you would say "technology-challenged" :).

Well, currently I am in Bangkok for a six-month stint at the Asia News Network (ANN) (http://asianewsnet.net). Actually, I have been in Bangkok for about two months. I arrived here on March 15. I will be leaving on Sept. 14. My duty mainly maintaining the website by selecting stories from ANN members.

Asia News Network is hosted by The Nation at its headquarters on Bangna-Trad road in the southern part of Bangkok.

I find Bangkok much more convenient than Jakarta as it has two lines of BTS Sky Train and a line of subway which almost forms a ring or circle. Bangkok also has a more extensive highway network than Jakarta.

Other modes of transportations are taxi, bus, songthew, tuk-tuk and...... ojek. He he he

Okay, I need to take a rest now as I am going to Pattaya on the weekend with Asohan and Yasmin. See you soon.

Testing

2004-12-29T10:45:00.000+07:00

The first posting on my blog. An experiment on keeping track of my journeys.

Miyajima a gateway to traditional attractions

2003-11-23T11:03:00.000+07:00

It was a dream come true when I spotted O Torii (Grand Gate) as the ferry neared the island of Miyajima. I recalled a session during my first year in architecture school that discussed the gate as an example of special ways to greet visitors.

O Torii is the gate to Itsukushima Shinto shrine, but you cannot walk through it because it stands in the sea, some 200 meters in front of the shrine's main hall.

The complex itself is built on stilts on the beach so during high tide you might think the shrine is floating on the sea.

It was built in the first half of the 6th century, but general Taira-no-Kiyomori remodelled it into the present structure in 1168. The shrine and O Torii are easily recognizable for the bright vermilion color, showing the artistic beauty of the Shinden architecture style.

Walking out from the ferry terminal along the shore, visitors will soon be greeted by a herd of tame deer on the way to the shrine (tame they may be, but they can get quite aggressive in their pursuit of a snack).

The shrine itself is a formal, symmetrical wooden structure with hallways connecting sections to the main hall. There is an open deck in front of the main hall with a direct view to O Torii, and a raised stage on the terrace for Shinto religious festivals.

One of the most dramatic festivals is the Kangen-sai music festival, held annually in July or August, featuring court dances and music. During the festival, the Itsukushima deity is taken on a boat journey to visit other shrines located on the nearby islands of the Seto Inland Sea.

Itsukushima shrine was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996. In addition, the Japanese government also designated 30-square-kilometer Miyajima Island, about a one-hour ferry ride from Hiroshima, a special historic site and a special place of scenic beauty.

Leaving Itsukushima, there is the Daiganji Buddhist temple to the right and the Homotsukan Treasure Hall to the left. Two celestial guardians stand watch at Daiganji's gate, believed to curse visitors who have committed evil deeds in the past.

The Homotsukan Treasure Hall displays the Heike clan's Buddhist sutras as well as treasures dedicated by clan members to the Itsukushima shrine as prayers for prosperity.

The collection has 130 works of arts (paintings, sculptures and handicrafts) designated as important cultural properties by the Japanese government.

Close by is the Senjokaku shrine and its five-storied pagoda. The shrine, also known as Hokoku shrine, is a library of Buddhist sutras built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi for the war dead.

The 27-meter-high pagoda was built in 1407 in a blend of Japanese and Chinese architecture. There is a full-color image of Buddha on the inside wall.

Take a cable car to Mt. Misen; the mountain stands at 530 meters above sea level and offers a magnificent view of the island. The mountain itself is considered sacred.

At the foot of the mountain is Momijidani Park, covered by primeval forest. It is best to visit the park in autumn as there will be a splendid view of red-tinted maple leaves. From spring to early summer, cherry blossoms provide more magnificent scenery.

As for souvenirs, visitors can buy the popular confectionery momiji manju in the shape of maple leaves and shakushi senbei (rice scoop-shaped crackers).

The island is renowned for its method of making the wooden rice scoop, devised by a Buddhist priest named Seishin. The particular technique ensures that the scent of the wood is not transferred to the rice. The scoop is also used as a good luck talisman.

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, November 23, 2003

Hiroshima: Peace reigns in a city with a shadowed past

2003-11-23T10:49:00.000+07:00

All of us know about the terrible fate of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, the first and only victims of atomic bombs that were dropped during the waning days of World War II.

During a brief visit to Hiroshima recently, I learned more. Unfortunately for the city, an important military and industrial hub during the war, its size and topography made it a suitable place to observe the enormity of the big bomb.

The legend of the phoenix, who resurrects itself from the ashes, is perhaps the most suitable metaphor for Hiroshima rebuilding itself from the rubble of that act.

Today, it is the largest and most vital city in the Chugoku and Shikoku regions, its Aioi-dori avenue packed with modern buildings and shopping malls.

Hiroshima's long history began with Terumoto Tori, the lord of the Chugoku region, who started constructing Hiroshima castle in 1589 on the Otagawa river delta. After being ruled by a succession of clans, the Meiji Restoration restored power to the imperial court in the mid-19th century.

Hiroshima was granted city status in April 1872 when the feudal divisions of Japan were replaced by the prefectural system. It gained its military importance during the Sino-Japanese war that began in 1894 and the Russo-Japanese war in 1904.

Today, much of that history is overlooked, superseded by its status as a potent global symbol of peace, with the slogan, "No More Hiroshimas".

Its history through the fateful bombing of Aug. 6, 1945, is shown at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, located in the Peace Memorial Park on the northern tip of Nakajima islet.

There is the famous Genbaku Dome, or Atomic-bomb Dome, across the Motoyasu river from the islet.

The museum consists of East and West buildings. Visitors start the journey from the East wing, with photo panels and models presenting the city's history before and after the bombing.

The West building concentrates on grim artifacts from Aug. 6 -- charred summer uniforms, a charred lunchbox, even human remains shriveled by the intense radiation. On the way out, there is a section where visitors can write their own message of peace.

The park also houses many sculptures and other monuments to remember the victims and survivors. The cenotaph for the A-bomb victims is easily recognized by its saddle-shaped structure.

There is a stone coffin under the cenotaph, recording all the dead, with the inscription: "Let all the souls here rest in peace; For we shall not repeat the evil".

Hiroshima's mayor is kept busy, not only with daily affairs but also in making sure there is no repeat of the tragedy that befell the city.

A collection of letters from mayors protesting nuclear or atomic testing are also part of the monument.

The Children's Peace Monument, also known as the Tower of a Thousand Cranes, is in the park, consisting of a bell inside a three-legged bombshell-like structure.

It commemorates junior high school student Sadako Sasaki, who died of leukemia on Oct. 25, 1955. She had hoped to recover from her illness by folding paper cranes.

Since then, school students have made a pilgrimage to the site, bringing paper cranes to remember her struggle for life. On top of the nine-meter monument, there is a statue of a girl stretching her arms up in the air holding a golden crane.

But the city's present is also notable for travelers.

Manga (comics) lovers will find the Hiroshima City Manga Library a must visit while car lovers should stop by the Mazda Museum and the Hiroshima City Transportation Museum.

Sushi, sashimi and udon noodles have become Japan's contributions to global cuisine, but Hiroshima is known for oysters and its okonomiyaki, a combination of pancake and noodles, stuffed with the diner's choice of ingredients and served with a special thick sauce.

The downtown district of Shintenchi is the place to get the dish, skillfully prepared before customers' eyes on a hot metal griddle.

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, November 23, 2003

Sleepy island a home to boat building tradition

2003-07-06T20:58:00.000+07:00

Pagerungan Kecil island is so far from mainland Java that it takes several tiring days and changes of transportation to get there.

But this remote backwater is playing a crucial part of a landmark event in Indonesian maritime history.

Resident As'ad Abdullah al-Madani was commissioned to reconstruct an ancient ship based on reliefs found at Borobudur temple for the Borobudur Ship Expedition.

The tiny island, made up of four hamlets, is part of the Kangean Islands, lying east of East Java's Madura island and north of Bali, and coming under Sapeken subdistrict, in Madura's Sumenep regency. If it is known at all, it is for the natural gas project on a neighboring island.

Pagerungan Kecil village head Muhammad Ali said some 1,300 families, consisting of 4,600 residents, lived on this 3.5 kilometer by 1.6. kilometer island.

The islanders speak Bajau, a language native to SouthSulawesi, but the people trace their descent from Abdul Rauf al-Madani, who was a religious leader at Nabawi Mosque in Medina,Saudi Arabia.

He went to Sulawesi to propagate Islam with a friend, SheikhHasan Yamani. Both were married in Sulawesi before Yamani decided to return home, leaving his friend behind.

Sheik Yamani, according to As'ad, is the grandfather of formerSaudi Arabian oil minister and OPEC chairman, Zaqi Yamani.

Al-Madani moved to Bali before relocating to Pagerungan Kecilin 1910, where he died 22 years later.

Most of the established families on the island are related,but there are also new settlers, especially from Madura, andother ethnic groups of South Sulawesi who also speak the local dialect.

The passage of time and the development boom in the country inthe last 20 years exerted little effect on the sedate way of life on the island.

Although there are several modern homes owned by wealthierresidents, most of the houses continue to be built in the traditional way, on stilts.

"We are quite lucky here because the island is not inundated,even during high tide. Several neighboring islands are flooded to a depth of about 50 centimeters during high tide," said Ali.

The island is clean and well-kept, defying the common reputation of fishing villages as dirty and unkempt.

The main footpath connecting all the hamlets is made of concrete and the houses are surrounded by low, picket fences.

"We have also built several public bathhouses so islanders who do not have their own bathroom can use these public facilities," said Ali.

"Most used to wash themselves on the shore, and it was so dirty back then. But continuing campaigns on leading clean and healthy lives have changed behavior."

Unlike Madura, where the barren soil and lack of water resources is a chronic problem, Pagerungan Kecil is considered fortunate, as there are several sources of freshwater for the people's needs.

"The islanders may be isolated, but our village was named as an exemplary village (by the government) in 2000," Ali said.

"We have hosted several ministerial and other official visits since then."

But it is a long, rugged journey there and back. A ferry service every five days connects Sapeken village with Kali Anget in Sumenep, Madura island and Ketapang harbor in Banyuwangi, EastJava.

Sapeken is a one-hour boat ride from Pagerungan Kecil. The ferry to Kali Anget leaves Sapeken at 11 a.m. and makes a stop at Kangean harbor after a three-hour trip.

Then the ferry leaves Kangean at 4 p.m. before arriving atKali Anget at about 2 a.m. the next day.

It then entails a three-hour drive to Kamal harbor on theother side of Madura before taking another ferry to Surabaya's Tanjung Perak Harbor.

This time, thankfully, the journey takes only about 20minutes.

If you are in a hurry, hire a motorized wooden boat fromBanyuwangi. Usually, the trip takes about 12 hours, depending on the weather. Banyuwangi is some six hours drive from Surabaya.

If you have the money and are not looking for an adventuroustrip, you can hire an airplane from Juanda Airport, Surabaya, to an airfield in Pagerungan Besar island for US$2000. A boat shuttle service to Pagerungan Kecil is available at a cost of Rp10,000 per passenger.

All the hassle of getting there pays off once you see its beauty, which is ideal for lovers of the sea, divers or those who just want to get a glimpse of a part of Indonesia that is far from the beaten track.

The islanders are very friendly, and will invite visitors intotheir homes.

They are also becoming more conscious about preserving their little piece of paradise.

"The fishermen used to use bombs to catch fish but we have established a local rule that no bombs are allowed, to protect the coral reef," said Ali.

"There are several good sites for diving and we want to keep them, not only for the divers, but also for the sake of the fishermen themselves."

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, July 06, 2003

Cultures come together recreate ancient ship

2003-07-06T20:43:00.000+07:00

It is a tale of two worlds brought together in a shared goal.

The protagonist is As'ad Abdullah al-Madani, a shipbuilder by trade with a skill rarely found today. A major supporting player is Australian Nick Burningham, a maritime archeologist who also specializes in reconstructing ancient ships.

The central storyline is the building of a 25-meter-long ship, reconstructed and based on a handful of reliefs of ships found on Borobudur temple in Central Java, and using techniques that date back to the 8th century.

The Borobudur Ship Expedition, with a mixed Indonesian-international crew, will set sail in August for the Maldives, Madagascar, Cape Town and Ghana. The expedition and shipbuilding are expected to cost œ200,000 (US$320,000).

As'ad said he did not produce his own designs because he could visualize a ship being built.
"All you have to do is show me a drawing or a model of the ship you want to be built. Then I will get a vision of how to construct it," he said.

"I seldom refer back to the drawings or model, as I've got all the pictures inside my head."

As'ad, himself an able seaman and fisherman, then instructs his carpenters on what to do.

"I gained my gift after a dream in 1969. I met Bung Karno in my dream, who told me to cast my net to sea," he said, referring to the country's first president, Sukarno.

"When I pulled at the net, I found coconut tree logs forming ship masts, resembling the masts of the Borobudur ship."

Ultimately, the tale of the ship's building is a blend of Western initiative and Eastern craftsmanship.

"Nick gave me the original sketch and model, but I have the authority to make all other decisions and modifications," As'ad said.

"We always have discussions on how to make the ship. It is a blend of his education and my experience."

Burningham, who, with his salt-and-pepper hair and beard looks the part of the seafarer, said he chose As'ad because he still knew how to make ships with layar soppe (rectangular sails).

"This is one of the last places where really clever traditional shipbuilders like Pak Asad are working," he said.

"Without using any plans like Western shipbuilders, Pak As'ad works with his eyes. He works like a sculptor."

Burningham was working in Italy when the expedition leader, Philip Beale, came to him and asked him to reconstruct the Borobudur ship.

"I have always been interested in how traditional ships were sailed with no motor, a small number of men, sailing with the help of oars to move large amounts of heavy cargo," Burningham said.

"The only way now to experiment with that is to build replicas and sail them. I first designed a replica in 1986 in South Sulawesi."

Burningham also described Indonesian traditional sailing ships as wonderfully balanced and designed.

The Australian has been involved in six replica projects, including a reconstruction of the Dutch ship, Duyfken.

"Reconstructing the Borobudur ship is a big challenge, technically speaking, because we have only five reliefs from Borobudur temple," he said.

"There are very few archeological findings on the ship -- no other information. It looks like a large ship but it has outriggers. The problem is that in more recent times no large ships have had outriggers -- they are only for small ships."

He said more information was available when he worked on the Duyfken project.

"However, it seems the Dutch and Indonesian shipbuilders did not use paper-based plans," he said.

Both Burningham and As'ad have tried to replicate the techniques and materials used in the first millennium.

"Tens of thousands of wooden pegs have been used in place of metal nails in the ship," said As'ad.

"We have also used coconut fiber ropes and damar wood, a natural resin and adhesive, to keep the ship together."

Burningham is apprehensive about the leg from Cape Town to Ghana in West Africa, crossing through the notoriously treacherous waters of the Cape of Good Hope.

"My big concern is the outriggers. It's very unusual to have outriggers on such a large vessel. I don't know what they will do in a storm. They may break," Burningham said.

"But the ship is designed to sail without the outriggers. I did that because we needed larger-sized bamboo for a larger vessel. The ship is too big for the bamboo available here.

Burningham believes that outriggers may have had another purpose than merely serving as a balance mechanism.

"I believe the outriggers were platforms for oarsmen. There are in existence 19th-century pictures of pirate ships using outriggers for that reason," he said.

Burningham's next project is to reconstruct another Indonesian ancient ship, the Sriwijaya ship from the Sriwijaya kingdom in South Sumatra.

As'ad plans to take the haj pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, tracing his Arab roots while he is there.

The father of six and grandfather of 15 is hopeful that his shipbuilding skills will not die with him. His third son, Abdullah, shows a similar love and skill for shipbuilding.

"But he needs more experience," he said.

Links: www.borobudurshipexpedition.com

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, July 06, 2003

Maritime expedition retraces RI-African link

2003-06-14T20:35:00.000+07:00

Indonesians have for many centuries been renowned as daring seafarers, roaming the globe to faraway places.

To reconstruct its past glory, Indonesia has organized two major sea voyages using replicas of famous old phinisi ships in the past two decades.

The first expedition, called the Phinisi Nusantara, ended at the Vancouver World Expo in 1986. The second, aboard a phinisi ship called the Amanna Gappa, ended in disaster when it sank in the waters off Africa in November 1991 after leaving Madagascar.

Other, lesser expeditions, have used modern tall ships, such as the Navy training ships the Dewa Ruci and Arung Samudra.

Now organizers are making final preparations for another major expedition, with a ship built based on reliefs at the ancient Borobudur Temple in Central Java.

The Borobudur Ship Expedition, as it is called, will feature a 25-meter-long ship with rectangular sails and equipped with double outriggers.

Briton Philip Beale, a former member of the Royal Navy, saw the reliefs after conducting research on Tami trading canoes in Papua New Guinea. He wanted to reconstruct a ship based on the reliefs and use it travel to Madagascar.

As a researcher, Beale believes that Indonesian sailors played an important role in the so-called Cinnamon Route, which brought cinnamon from the Indonesian archipelago to East Africa and then Egypt and Europe.

"The Indonesians did it in the first millennium -- much, much earlier than the Vikings finding North America or the Spanish and Portuguese armadas," Beale told The Jakarta Post.

Beale will soon see the ship from the relief come to life. A group of shipbuilders launched the "Borobudur ship" on the last week of May near Pagerungan island off Bali.

The ship was built on Beale's initiative, and the shipbuilders used techniques that date back to the 8th century.

For example, they used coconut fibers instead of nails to bind parts. The ship was built under the guidance of a well-known Australian maritime adviser, Nick Burningham, and under the supervision of a seasoned traditional shipbuilder, Assad.

President Megawati Soekarnoputri is scheduled see off the expedition members in Jakarta on Aug. 15, when they leave for Madagascar, which they hope to reach in October. The next stop after that is Cape Town, and the voyage will then continue along the western coast of Africa to its final destination, Ghana, in December.

"This expedition should be good for Indonesia's profile and tourism in this difficult time, by sailing the boat from here to Africa like a cultural celebration," Beale said.

Trade between Indonesia and Madagascar started between the fourth and eight centuries, bringing the influence of Indonesia to Africa.

"The expedition should bring about the profile of Indonesia as a maritime nation and should help raise the profile of Indonesia, the skill and heritage of that time," Beale said.

He said the expedition and shipbuilding would cost up to œ200,000 (US$320,000), with most of the initial funding coming from the organizers, Tanya Alwi of Indonesia, Beale, Berningham and the state ministry of culture and tourism.

The expedition's executive director, Tanya Alwi, described the expedition as a "big project".
"The ship will be manned by a crew of 12 or 13, and six of them will be Indonesians while the rest will be an international crew.

"We have put out an advertisement seeking interested individuals to become crew members. The selection process will be handled by the Indonesian Navy," she said.

Tanya said a seasoned Indonesian Navy officer would serve as the ship's skipper.

The ship will be equipped with modern navigation equipment, such as GPS (global positioning system). A couple of small engines have been included to facilitate the ship's entrance and exit from ports.

"This is a sailing expedition and we want to reenact the ancient voyage, so we won't just turn the engine on and whizzz ..," Biele said.

While the boat is already afloat, the masts and outriggers will be added later this month.
"Then we will test the ship in June and sail it to Jakarta sometime in July. So we have about one month of testing," said Beale.

Tanya said the organizers would welcome interested anthropologists or marine biologists on board. Recruits from the Boy Scouts are also being sought.

The organizer of the expedition plans to hold a seminar on July 3 in Jakarta.

"It will cover such issues as how people built ships in the 8th century, the cultural relations between Indonesia and Madagascar, why, how and when we went there, how to have maritime character building, how we package cultural heritage for tourism.

"We also want to have the seminar in Madagascar, Cape Town and the Maldives. The idea is to highlight cultural and trade missions in the expedition," Tanya said.

Beale will donate the ship to Indonesia after the expedition, she said.

Additional information on the expedition can be found at www.borobudurshipexpedition.com.

Published on The Jakarta Post on Saturday, June 14, 2003

Swimming with sharks on undisturbed Karimun

2003-06-01T21:01:00.000+07:00

A convoy of vehicles, from cars to becak (pedicabs), disturbed a sedate Saturday afternoon on Karimun Jawa Island.

They took up position on the jetty in anticipation of the arrival of the Muria ferry from Jepara, part of the twice weekly service connecting the island and the Java mainland.

Karimun Jawa and 26 other islands are a district of Central Java's Jepara regency, divided into three subdistricts with a total population of some 4,000 families. Most are fishermen.

Located north of Jepara, Karimun Jawa is the main inhabited island, but there are also settlements on nearby Kemojan as well as Parang and Nyamuk islands.

Public facilities are limited, with only one junior high school (most students continue their education in Jepara).

Telephone service is limited to Karimun Jawa, with cellular phone access a goal for the future.
But part of the islands' potential tourist attraction is this remote, undisturbed quality, a relatively short distance from Java, one of the world's most crowded islands.

There are many diving sites around the islands, including shipwrecks.

Just across from the Karimun Jawa harbor, there is also a shark nursery on Menjangan Besar Island, which currently houses 10 black sharks.

"It is quite easy to take care of these baby sharks," said Mrs. Sum who is responsible for the nursery.

"We only need to feed them 3-4 times a week, with 10 kilograms of fish at each feeding time."
She added that Jakarta's Seaworld had acquired two white sharks from the nursery for its collection.

In contrast to white sharks, black ones are more passive and calm. A snorkling session with them proved that they are indeed retiring creatures.

In fact, they swam away.

There are also barracuda and carp in the nursery.

"These fish are for guests who are staying in the cottages," she said.

The cottages are simple and cheap, costing only Rp 45,000 (US$5.48) per night.

Karimun Jawa is home to the Kura-Kura Hotel and Hotel Wisata. Kura-Kura Hotel is owned by the Central Java provincial administration and managed by Kura-Kura Resort. Hotel Wisata is owned and managed by the Jepara regency administration.

A Kura-Kura Hotel staff member, Syaiful, told The Jakarta Post that the local administration should focus on developing the area to draw tourists.

"Providing hotels alone is not enough and the authorities must also improve the access here," he said.

"I heard that they will operate a fast ferry next year which only takes three hours instead of eight."

The local fishermen also rent out their boats for visitors to cruise around the islands, with fares ranging from Rp 100,000 to Rp 200,000 depending on the length of the ride.

Promotions are needed to get the word out to prospective visitors.

For those who do make it to these parts, there are not many souvenirs to choose from. There are handicrafts made of seashells, such as key chains, pins and boxes, but the quality needs to be improved.

The island is also known for Dewa Daru wood which is believed to have powers as an amulet.

The problem is the wood is believed to be so sacred that no ships or planes will carry it on board.
A special ceremony is mandated to ask permission from the spirits who are said to guard the island and the wood.

With or without tempting souvenirs, a visit to this pristine island is worth all the hassle of getting there.

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, June 1, 2003. Co-authored by Agustina Wayansari

Escaping from it all in Central Java

2003-06-01T16:48:00.000+07:00

We drank in the beautiful view as the Kura-Kura Aviation Cessna 402 approached Karimun Jawa, the string of islets set in a clear turquoise sea.

Not to mention the sight of the pristine white sandy beach.

We were enjoying the last moments of a 30-minute flight from Semarang to Kura-Kura Resort on Menyawakan Island, one of 27 islands comprising Karimun Jawa islands in Central Java's Jepara regency.

The aircraft passed over Karimun Jawa Island, the main island in the group, and landed at Dewa Daru airstrip on nearby Kemojan Island. These two islands, separated by a narrow strait, are linked by a bridge.

The airstrip's humble terminal was deserted as Kura-Kura Aviation is the only regular visitor.

From the airfield, we took a short walk to a simple pier where a speed boat was waiting to take us to Menyawakan.

There are 15 bungalows available at Kura-Kura Resort, each with a commanding view to the west to catch the glorious sunset.

The resort's diving master, Magnus Muhli, said there were more than 30 dive sites across Karimun Jawa Marine National Park, which were suitable for all levels of divers, from those testing the waters to experienced ones.

"There are shallow dive sites with no or weak currents for beginners, as well as deep ones with strong currents for more advanced divers," he said.

"Interested divers can also explore several shipwrecks."

Beginner divers can try Hawksbill Point, Gosong Cemara or the wreck of Biblis, while intermediate divers would probably find the wreck of the Mitra or Karang Kapal points quite interesting and testing.

Most of the diving points for advanced divers include shipwrecks, such as at Taka Menyawakan and Torpedo Reef.

"It is indeed a beautiful place because there are so many diving sites available for everyone," visitor Henrik Dahl told The Jakarta Post.

Henrik, who spent several days at the resort along with three friends, said they were looking to return.

"Four days is simply not enough to explore the entire area. We will definitely come back," he said.

Kura-Kura Resort can be a fun-filled escape even if you do not dive. That is as long as you can swim, of course.

Menyawakan itself is a good place for snorkeling, ringed by a beautiful coral reef like the other islands in Karimun Jawa.

The water is so clear the reef was visible as we took a jetski ride. As we circled the island three times, we stopped several times to take a closer look at the beautiful reef.

"It was such an awesome experience snorkeling around the island. We just floated and the current carried us around," said Dini, who was visiting with her partner Erick.

The island itself is encircled by a magnificent natural coral reef wall.

"We even had to break the coral line to make way for vessels entering our pier," said one of the resort staff, Eko.

Walking along the reef wall, we were able to differentiate the blue of the sea, which is a clear blue near the shore but a darker hue outside.

Muhli said everybody was welcome to visit the diving points as long as they respected the environment.

"We do not own the points because it is a marine national park. We just bring people there," he said.

"But we have good cooperation with the marine national park authorities to preserve the park."

The resort management is even trying to play a part in ensuring that the park is not spoiled. It has suggested to the park authorities to work with local fishermen on more sustainable fishing practices.

"We have suggested that the park authorities divide the park into fishing and restricted zones to provide a more conducive environment for fish to breed and regenerate," Muhli said.

"After a certain period, we can rotate the zones. In this way, the fishermen will always have fish to catch. Without such a rotation, there will be overfishing and there will be nothing left."

Although the plan has yet to be implemented, Muhli said the resort would continue to give its support.

The management also pays attention to other environmental issues, Eko said, including having all laundry done in Jepara to avoid run-off into the sea.

"We also ship trash like bottles and cans to Jepara and burn what we can can," he added.

And for those in search of kura-kura (turtles), the resort said they came ashore to lay their eggs.

It's a stunning, unspoiled piece of paradise, but there is one drawback.

There is only radio communication from the resort to the rest of the world, with telephone service only available on Karimun Jawa Island.

To make things worse -- or better for those seeking a complete escape from it all -- there is no cellular phone coverage at all.

But then who needs contact with the bustling, frenzied pace of modern life when you can indulge yourself in a hassle-free stay amid such beauty?

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, June 1, 2003. Co-authored with Agustina Wayansari

Busan lures visitors with beaches, seafood and nature

2002-12-22T20:31:00.000+07:00

The Korean Peninsula is known as "the land of the morning calm" due to its beautiful hills that directly overlook the open sea.

South Korea's biggest port city, Busan, is one of the cities that is being developed as a major business and industrial center while at the same time preserving nature.

Busan just finished hosting the 14th Asian Games in October, the second major sporting event after the Olympics.

The city has proven itself to be a true metropolis with all its modern facilities and a proven ability to manage such a grand sporting event.

It's not just that modernity is being sold as the major attraction for tourists.

Haeundae Beach is Busan's most popular beach and it can easily be reached by city bus or subway.

The beach may not be as beautiful as those in Indonesia, but it is still a favorite place for residents of Busan to spend their time, especially in summer, as it is the best beach in the country.

If you visit Busan in January, you may witness or even participate in the Polar Bear swim in late winter.

As a port, Busan has a lot of seafood restaurants selling everything from sushi to fried fish or seafood soup. You name it, they sell it. However, various dishes of fish are more expensive than if you buy dishes containing chicken or beef.

While you are in Busan, you may want to try some fresh seafood and the best place to do so is at Jagalchi market where you can pick the fish, octopus or lobster yourself and have it cooked as you like.

It is especially enjoyable to have a freshly fried fish accompanied with spicy thick fish-bone soup while enjoying Busan's scenery, especially in the evening.

Jagalchi market is the biggest fish market in the city although there are others like Millak, Cheongsapo and Dadaepo markets.

Located in Nampo district, Jagalchi market complex also sells various dried sea products, such as seaweed and squid. It reminded me of home, especially ikan asin (salted dried fish).

Not so far from Jagalchi is Kukje Market, a shopping complex similar to Blok M in South Jakarta with rows of shops creating an enjoyable labyrinth of stores selling clothes, souvenirs and other items, including jewelry. You can also find hanbok or traditional Korean clothes there.

Along the sides of alleys street vendors sell various traditional snacks to fill your empty stomach.

For shopaholics, Kukje Market is the place to go although there are other interesting places, such as underground malls in Nampo-dong and downtown Seomyeon.

These underground shopping malls also serve as the main path for pedestrians especially during cold winters. An underground shopping mall usually runs between several subway stations.
Although Busan is developing itself into an even stronger industrial hub, it is still proud of its environmental legacies.

Of the most famous nature-related tourism spots is Taejongdae, a 250-meter cliff composed of extraordinary rocks and a thick forest, which is home to some 200 species of trees. What makes this cliff most interesting is the presence of a seafood market near the sea.

But you need a strong pair of legs just to climb down, let alone ascend.

Many older South Koreans, however, are not deterred by the difficult climb, and they have no trouble in going up and down the steps, armed with their walking sticks.

No wonder South Korean athletes do so well in international events.

Another place for nature lovers is Mount Geumjeong in the northern part of Busan.
The mountain, with a peak of 801.5 meters above sea level, is the home of Geumgang Park and Mount Geumjeong Fortress, the largest fortress in Korea with its 17.3-kilometer perimeter.
Another feature of Mount Geumjeong is Beomeo-sa (temple) which is located on the eastern tip of the mountain.

It is one of the top five temples in Korea and was built by a Buddha teacher, Euisang, during the Silla Kingdom period in 678.

Another fact to remember is that Busan is the last major city withstanding the attack launched by Communist North Korea during the Korean War.

It served as a temporary South Korean capital and the place for allied forces to launch counterattacks driving away the North Korean soldiers.

Busan also houses the only United Nations cemetery in the world which honors the fallen soldiers who were fighting under the blue UN flag.

Published on The Jakarta Post on Sunday, December 22, 2002