Sharon Sews

A Sequin Knit Cardigan using The Sewing Workshop Cascade Dress Pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Mon, 24 Apr 2023 18:05:00 +0000

If you follow the Fabric Mart Fabricista blog, you've already seen my sequin cardigan in my April post. However, I want to document my makes here also as it provides reminders to myself regarding any changes I made.

For my sequin cardigan, I used an out-of-print (OOP) Sewing Workshop pattern, the Cascade Dress. I don't recall the year the pattern was released. However, I do recall buying it at a sewing expo when it was a new release. One of the samples was sewn in a burnout velvet and it was gorgeous!

Remember when Linda Lee used to be a vendor/teacher at the sewing expos? You could browse through and try on the Sewing Workshop sample garments. The patterns were $19.95 (I think) which was expensive for a pattern at that time. TSW typically had a show special where you could buy three patterns and get one free, or something like that. It was a long time ago and the show memories are a bit fuzzy. If you know leave me a comment!

Anyway, I bought the Cascade Dress pattern, purchased a black burnout velvet knit for the top and a black woven for the skirt (from SR Harris of course!) and sewed the outfit within weeks of that expo. I didn't like the skirt much, and never added the buttons and buttonholes to the top (I didn't trust the machine I had at that time to not mess up the buttonholes) but that top is still in my closet. I have always worn it as an open front jacket.

This sequin version is the third time I've sewn the top. I know that cascading hems aren't as popular as they were five or so years ago, but I don't care. I really like the design of this top.

Most of The Sewing Workshop patterns tend to run oversized. I've never figured out why they don't just size their patterns to more accurately reflect the body measurements they provide. Instead they always advise to size down.

Anyway, this one is also quite oversized, with a raglan sleeve and low armhole. I sewed a size medium, even though my measurements put me on the lower end of the size large. I think I could have even gone down to a size small, it's that oversized. No need for a full bust adjustment, that's for sure.

The top consists of three pattern pieces, a body, sleeve, and neck binding. I had to cut the body piece out on the floor (my poor old knees!) because it is so large. I cut it single layer and used the first piece as a guide to cut my second piece.

I use large washers from the hardware store as my pattern weights. I've always told myself I'd add fabric to make them cuter, but after decades of using these as is, I doubt I'll actually do that :-)

I didn't have to remove any sequins from seam allowances as these sequins were very tiny and flexible. I sewed each seam on my sewing machine, using the 5/8" seam allowance (BERNINA 770QE PLUS) and finished the seams with a 3-thread overlock stitch (Babylock Evolution serger).

I pressed seams using low-heat and a press cloth.

The fabric, from Fabric Mart Fabrics, was an FTY knit with a sequin pattern. Because the fabric was lightweight (even with the sequins) the cardigan has great movement.

I made a few small changes to the pattern. I lengthened the front by four inches, shortened the sleeves by 1", removed the front plackets, and added a button and fabric loop at the front neckline.

I did not shorten the length. I'm 5' 5-1/2" and you can see that the lowest corner reaches to my ankle.

I used the non-sequined selvage edge to create the fabric loop. The button is from my button stash, or should I say collection? It sounds better don't you think?

It's so difficult to find good buttons, especially wear I live, and I much prefer to pick buttons out in person with a swatch of my fabric so I get the right color.

As designed, the hem is turned twice to the wrong side and stitched in place for a 3/8" finished hem with mitered corners. I didn't want the sequin turned to the wrong side. Not only for looks, but I didn't want the sequin potentially catching on whatever I happened to be wearing.

I finished the hem and front edges with this knit binding I had purchased from Fabric Mart Fabrics about five years ago. I wish would have had more, but I'm happy I had almost enough for this cardigan. I had to finish the neckline using some of the selvage edge of the fabric.

It worked perfectly for the hem, and I was able to miter the corners.

Even though I added a button and loop to the neckline, I'll likely wear this open. I like the look better that way.

Here is the back with the sides held up.

I will most likely be wear this just as shown in this blog post, with a t-shirt and jeans. Here you can see the sheerness of the fabric.

Until next time, I hope you have a blessed day, and happy sewing!

BurdaStyle Jan 2023 Blouse 104 - A Boho Blouse with BIG Sleeves

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Mon, 24 Apr 2023 01:52:00 +0000

Even though they've been around for awhile, I'm still liking the statement sleeve trend. That's why I put this top on my to-sew list as soon as I received my January 2023 issue of BurdaStyle magazine.

The magazine describes the blouse as "this blouse has the look of a lavish bouquet. Its secret? XL puff sleeves whose tiny gathers ensure that the flowing viscose drapes beautifully". It's a cute description but doesn't really tell you much about the blouse, except it does indeed have big sleeves!

Let me provide a few more details for you. It is a pullover style, with a v-neckline finished with an interfaced facing. The hem is slightly curved and the sleeves have a slit opening, with a button and loop and narrow band. I used two gold ball buttons that I've had in my button stash for decades.

The pattern is from the January 2023 magazine, blouse #104, and is also available as a PDF here. It's designed for lightweight blouse fabrics with the sample in the magazine sewn in a viscose.

While there are only three main pattern pieces to the top, it does require 2-5/8 yards (55" wide) as the the sleeve is a bit of a fabric hog.

It requires a lot of fabric because of the sleeves. Here's a pic of my traced sleeve pattern piece, which measures 37" across (in my size).

In regards to fabric, I knew I wanted something that had a nice drape to it, and thought about using rayon challis. But I wasn't sure if those pleats would require ironing after washing the top. While I do like to iron, I think ironing those little pleats would be a pain.

So I dug through my fabrics and found an unknown fiber content (probably polyester) crepe print that I had purchased at Fabrictopia in San Antonio, TX. It was on one of the bargain tables, so I would have paid about $5 per yard. I originally though I'd use it to sew a multi-tiered dress. However, after I had it home I realized it was semi-sheer and I'm past the stage where I want to wear a slip with my dresses.

Instead I used it for this top and will donate the extra yardage. I think the print and texture works well in this design.

The sleeve fullness is created with 10 tiny pleats, not gathers as described. Marking and sewing all those pleats accurately is a bit time consuming, but the end result made the effort worthwhile.

I cut a 40 (14) going to a 42 (16) at the waist/hip area, which is the size I currently sew with BurdaStyle magazine patterns.

One drawback of BurdaStyle magazine patterns is the lack of finished garment measurements. Yes, after I trace the pattern I can flat measure it, but I forgot. Sometimes BurdaStyle patterns fit me without a full bust adjustment, but looking at the pattern pieces on this one I couldn't quite determine where to make the adjustment. So I cut it out, crossed my fingers, and sewed.

When it was time to add the sleeves to the bodice front and back, I basted the seam so I could remove the stitches if I needed to make adjustments. I tried on the top and it fit, but was tighter across the bust that I wanted.

I removed all the basting stitches and, since I had plenty of fabric, I recut the front piece. I added 3/4" on the front bodice piece from the front armhole notch to the the waist. Instead of a 5/8" seam allowance, I stitched that section using a 1/2" seam allowance.

I drew dotted lines in red on the pattern piece drawing in my magazine to remind remind myself what I did if I decide to sew this again.

I restitched the seams and was pleased with the fit. There's enough room in the bust area, and I like how the top curves in ever so slightly in the waist area.

I serged the bottom edge of the blouse, pressed that to the inside, and stitched in place.

Here's the back view.

I like the top quite a bit, and wore it often during February and March. Every time I wore it I received compliments. Those sleeves are a bit hit!

It's now getting warmer and this won't be worn much until next fall. I'd like to sew another for the spring season and if I do so I would shorten it a few inches.

As you can see, both of my fur babies stayed close to me while I took photos for this blog post.

I sewed this blouse on my BERNINA 770QE PLUS and finished the seams using my BabyLock Evolution serger.

Have a blessed day and Happy Sewing!

Oh! I almost forgot. I have a video review of the pattern if you like to watch YouTube videos. Just clik this link: https://youtu.be/gQQY7J2XjB8

An Animal Print Sewing Workshop Helix Top

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Thu, 03 Nov 2022 19:10:00 +0000

Everytime Linda Lee wears a Helix top on one of her Facebook Live videos (also posted on their YouTube channel) I tell myself I need to sew a Helix! This past week I finally sewed one just to test the fit.

I bought the pattern quite some time ago, but whenever I would think about sewing it, I'd wonder about sizing. If I used my full bust measurement (which is what Linda Lee usually recommends) I would sew a size large. However, my upper bust measurement puts me in a small.

I know from experience that many Sewing Workshop patterns are oversized, so I chose to sew the size in between - the medium. The finished bust measurement for a medium is 46", which gave me 6" of ease.

It is larger than I like. Even as I write that I chuckle, because I am always saying how I don't like my clothing to be tight or form fitting :-)

But in this case, the top feels a bit sloppy and I think I'd be happier with a slimmer fit. The finished bust measurement for a small is 42", which would give me 2" of ease. I may try sewing a small, but with a one or two inch full bust adjustment.

As you can see from the pattern cover, the best part about this top is the unique seaming. There are only three pattern pieces - a front, a back, and neckband.

It's described as "Long sleeve, spiral, bias-cut shirt. All-in-one front/right sleeve mimics back/left sleeve. Neck binding and stitched hems."

Because I was just testing the fit, I didn't think too much about my fabric selection. I ended up using an animal print sweater knit. It's been in my fabric stash for so long that I'm not even positive where it was purchased. I think it was from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

I didn't find construction difficult, but it is important to accurately mark everything because it's not obvious how the seams are to be sewn.

Even though this is a knit, I used a straight stitch throughout. I found it loose enough that there is no stress on any seam, so I didn't think there was any need for a stretch stitch.

I did lower the neckline by 1-1/2", which is something I typically do for tops with a round neckline, like this one. I just prefer the look with my large bust.

Because I lowered the neckline, I had to recalculate the length of the neckband. I measured the circumference of the neckline (along the seamline), and multiplied it by 0.875. Basically the neckband was 7/8 of the circumference of the neckline. I've been doing that a long time, and I'm not sure if I learned it from Kwik Sew or Linda Lee.

The best part of the top - those seam lines - are hidden because I used a print. To help highlight them I added some decorative stitches using a red Mettler Poly Sheen thread. I received the thread, along with additional threads, in a swag bag that had been given to all of the 2021 BERNINA Ambassadors. I don't have an embroidery machine, but this thread works great for decorative stitches.

Because I just can't seem to not share my boo-boos, here's a pic of how I messed up at the neckline. I'm not going to bother to fix it. First of all, this top was really just a test. Secondly, my hair will cover that section. Thirdly, most people will never even notice it.

Besides lowering the neckline, I didn't make any other pattern alterations. I did find the sleeves too long, and hemmed them with a 2" hem. I have short arms (thanks Mom!) and this is common for me.

With the looseness of the top, I would have liked it to be longer. I think if I sew this smaller I'll be happier with the length.

Overall, it's a great top and pattern. This version will most likely be worn around the house with leggings during the cold weather months.

I plan on sewing another, most likely using two colors so the design lines are visible. I also have fabric to sew the pants, so I'll blog about those once they are completed.

I couldn't resist another pic with the big puppy, and you'll be happy to know I didn't misstep this time. If you don't know what I'm talking about check out my Itch to Stitch Sabalito Top post.

As a BERNINA Ambassador, I stitched this using my BERNINA 770QE Plus.

Wishing you a blessed day. Happy Sewing!

Style Arc Selina Woven Top in Blue Viscose

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Mon, 19 Sep 2022 23:29:00 +0000

Have you ever sewn something simple and when you wear it you're amazed at how many compliments you receive?

That's what happened to me when I sewed this simple pullover top. I wore it to church soon after finishing it and I couldn't believe how many women wanted to know where it was purchased!

The top is the Syle Arc Selina Woven Top. It has an a-line shape, with a small ruffle on the sleeves and hem. It pulls over your head, with a faced neckline. The front is slightly shorter than the back. There is a back yoke with gathers.

I don't know why, but in my mind I thought this was going to be longer and looser. But now that I look at the line drawings, my version is pretty true to what is shown.

I sewed it using a fabric purchased from Emma One Sock. It was described as "Blue jeans floral drapey viscose woven". I think it was the perfect choice for this top. It was lightweight enough to wear during the summer and will transition nicely into early fall.

I will say, for a simple top it was time-consuming. Those little ruffles took a lot of time to hem. I think next time I'll cut the ruffle wider and fold it in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) instead of hemming the ruffle.

My serger was in for its annual spa day (aka service) so I did a tiny hem using my sewing machine. Without the tiny hems this top is a quick sew.

This is a multi-size PDF downloadable pattern. I choose to sew a size 10 with a 3/4" full bust adjustment, adding a small dart. I want to sew another for the fall season, but with a looser fit, so I may sew the 12 next time.

I have another viscose in mind for my next version, but I also think this could work in a knit.

As a BERNINA Ambassador I sewed this top on my 770QE PLUS.

Blessings and Happy Sewing!

Itch to Stitch Melrose Top ~ A Short, Boxy Woven Tee

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Fri, 09 Sep 2022 18:45:00 +0000

Even though the calendar tells me it's early September and the stores are filled with "It's Fall Y'all" merchandise, it's too early to pull out the sweaters and cardis.

And I've never been a fan of Pumpkin Spice :-)

Because the temps will be warm here for quite some time, I'm beginning to transition to fall by sewing a few easy-to-wear tops.

Right now, that means loose-fitting, woven tees. Such as this one, the Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch.

The pattern was released in 2019, I purchased it soon after, and am FINALLY sewing one! It includes a dress and a longer version of the top, each with an elasticated waist.

I was most interested in View C, a relaxed-fit top with a bias bound round neckline, dolman sleeves with cuff, and a bottom band.

Many of the Itch to Stitch patterns offer cup sizes, this pattern included. I've sewn quite a few from this designer, and know I can trust the measurements provided.

For this version, I choose to go up one size and used the DD cup piece. I originally lowered the bust point by 1/2", which is an adjustment I typically need when sewing this brand. However, I ended up resewing the dart bringing the bust point back to where it was marked on the pattern.

The fabric was in a large bundle I purchased at a local church garage sale for $4. Turns out I was there on 1/2 price day. Even at the full price of $8 it would have been a bargain. I ended up with about 20 or 25 yards of fabric, I can't recall at this point. Most of it is usable for sewing muslins, but others, like this blue and white check, can be worn and not look dated. However, without a burn test I don't know the fiber content.

This is an easy sew with only a front, a back, sleeve cuffs, neck band, and hem band.

But I made it more difficult on myself by cutting and sewing the contrast bands on the bias. It just took more time. I do like the look though.

I used one of my favorite BERNINA feet, the 10D Edgestitch Foot, to stitch the bands in place.

I wasn't fond of the instructions for bias neckband, although I do appreciate the level of detail provided to attach the neckband to the top. The instructions have you encase the seam allowance and then stitch in place.

Maybe the designer left the seam allowance untrimmed to provide extra support in the neckband? I don't know. I found it difficult to get the band folded over the seam allowance neatly and ended up trimming my allowance to 1/4". Even with that, the neckband sits slightly away from my body. Next time I'll simply turn to the inside and stitch.

The cuff on the dolman sleeve flares out slightly, I think you can see that in the photos. I'm not sure if it's the design, or because I placed the cuffs on the bias.

Next time I plan on shortening the length of the sleeve. It stops at the fullest part of my bust creating a somewhat horizontal line, which I think can make my bust area look even larger. Although I'll always wear a necklace with the top to create a vertical line.

Although I used the DD cup pattern piece for the front, I discovered that there was enough width, but not enough length. It's not too noticeable. In fact, I'm probably the only one who will notice. Still, I will add about 3/4" to the front so it isn't shorter than the back.

The top is designed to be short and boxy, which was the look I was going for. I'm happy with my wearable muslin, and will sew myself another one of these tops.

I sewed the top using my BERNINA 770QE Plus, and finished the seams with my BabyLock Evolution.

Have a blessed day and Happy Sewing!

The Sewing Workshop Cottage Shirt

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Sun, 28 Aug 2022 20:21:00 +0000

In a (fairly) recent Facebook Live, Linda Lee (The Sewing Workshop) wore a Cottage Shirt sewn out of this fabric. When she informed the viewers that it was available as a kit, I immediately purchased it, conveniently forgetting that I don't wear these colors and rarely wear button front shirts (or should it be button down)?

The kit included enough fabric for the Cottage Shirt, coordinating cotton thread, and buttons. The fabric is a colorful cotton, the weight of a quilting cotton. I did have to purchase The Cottage Shirt pattern separately as it wasn't one I already owned.

I've sewn other Sewing Workshop patterns and remembered they tend to be oversized. My full bust measurement puts me in the lower range of the Large size, while my upper bust measurement puts me in the upper range of the Small size.

The finished bust measurement was included on the back of the pattern envelope, showing that this top is designed with 16-1/2" of ease! I choose to sew the size medium, which gave me 14-1/2" of ease.

The top is designed to be boxy, with the finished bust and hip measurements being equal.

I do wish I had taken time to add a bust dart as I don't think this is as flattering as it could be. I think the boxy shape would work on me as is if I had used a fabric that drapes more.

Don't get me wrong. I think the top is cute. I just don't love it as much as I thought I would.

However, I'm pleased with my pattern matching at the front :-)

There is a faced back yoke, which is sewn to the shirt "burrito style" so there are no unfinished seams showing.

The collar band is also sewn to the shirt "burrito style". I did a blog post on this method waaaay back in 2009, when I was sewing quite a few blouses with collars and collar stands. However, I haven't used this method in quite some time.

I do like to draw the stitching line to help make sure both sides of the band are sewn the same. If I don't do that sometimes my band curves look different.

As I mentioned it's been awhile since I've used the method, and I did end up with a slight bump at the center front. But hey, you are standing too close to me if you can see that while I'm wearing this shirt :-)

I did have a bit of difficulty getting the band to fit the neck edge of the shirt smoothly. I stay stitched, and clipped a LOT. On either The Sewing Workshop Facebook page, or The Sewing Workshop Sew Confident 2022 private Facebook group, someone mentioned the collar stand should be a 3/8" seam allowance.

I couldn't find reference of that in the instructions, and the seam allowance printed on the pattern piece was too tiny for these old eyes to read. So I took a pic and it does say 5/8" seam allowance. I think when I sew this again I'll go ahead and trim everything to 3/8" seam allowance before sewing it together

As I'm writing this, I remember that I also had trouble getting the armhole band to fit. It was too large. I cut off about 5/8" from each end seam of the band and then it fit. I'll need to verify that I traced the correct size before I sew this again.

There is a 6" hem (the fabric is folded to the back and stitched in place at 6") with side vents. I like the uniqueness of the hem as well as the extra weight it provides to help the shirt hang properly.

I eliminated the button and buttonhole on the collar band as I will never, ever wear this buttoned all the way up.

By the way, I love the ease of stitching buttonholes on my BERNINA 770QE PLUS! I no longer have to hold my breath, cross my fingers, and say a little prayer before stitching buttonholes.

Overall this is a fairly simple shirt to sew, even though it took me two weeks to sew what should have only taken a few hours.

But I have a good excuse and she's pictured below. Our new puppy is a Great Pyrenees/Husky mix and only nine weeks old in this photo. Yep, she's gonna be a big girl!

By the way, the pants I'm wearing are The Sewing Workshop Urban Pants (OOP) sewn from a linen/rayon/cotton blend purchased from Emma One Sock.

Turns out these are my colors after all!

Blessings!

Multi-Tiered Maxi Skirt - Free BERNINA We All Sew Blog Project

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Wed, 18 May 2022 18:06:00 +0000

I have been a fan of multi-tiered maxi skirts since, well, forever! At least it feels like forever as I was a teen when I sewed my first one. I'm sure at the time I used a pattern as I didn't realize how simple these skirts are to sew!

As a BERNINA Ambassador, I get to create projects and write tutorials for the We All Sew blog.

In my latest blog post I walk you through the steps to sew this skirt using your own measurements.

Visit the blog post here - How to Sew a Multi-Tiered Maxi Skirt

Cashmerette Appleton Dress - Two Knit Wrap Dresses with Multi Cup Sizing

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Tue, 26 Apr 2022 14:55:00 +0000

Almost exactly one year ago, Cashmerette introduced their new size range with the release of the popular Appleton dress in sizes 0-16. Before the release, they had asked if I'd be interested in sewing the dress to help promote the new size range. Um, yes!

Maybe you've heard this fashion advise before: "Wrap dresses are flattering on everyone, especially large busted woman."

I disagree! When I was a small (haha!) D-cup I did find wrap dresses to be flattering. Now that I'm much larger than that, I have found they can be tricky to wear. As often as I've done full bust adjustments on patterns, I have never perfected the FBA on a wrap top or dress.

I liked the void that Cashmerette filled in the sewing community - larger sizing and bust cup options. I had often looked at their patterns, but knew I needed to start with a smaller size than what they offered and I didn't want to mess with grading.

That's why I was intrigued when I learned they were releasing some of their popular patterns in the new 0-16 size range. It's my understanding that even though sizes 12, 14, and 16 overlap (the other size range is 12-32) they are based on a different block and don't fit the same.

The description for the Appleton Dress pattern "the classic wrap dress is designed to play up your curves with a crossover front, a built-in waist tie, and a deep V-neck. Designed by and for curvy women, the Appleton’s innovative neckband construction prevents gaping across your bust."

When I agreed to sew the dress, I knew I would need to sew a test version first.

Honestly, I did NOT believe that it would fit my bust and not reveal too much cleavage.

I was pleasantly surprised. I don't have a pic of me bending over to show that it stays in place, but I did demonstrate in one of my makes videos (I'll link that at the end of this blog post).

It's true! It fits my bust and does not gape!

This floral dress is my test version. I sewed a 10 with a G/H cup, grading to a 12 at the waist and hip. What I discovered is that there was no need to grade out as the ties ended up right below my bust, rather than at my waistline. That meant I have some excess fabric that bunches below the the tie belt. I have it pulled to the back in these photos but it's not that bad.

This fabric is a cotton knit that I purchased from SR Harris Warehouse during one of our Minnesota visits. I used it because it was quite similar in weight and stretch to the fabric that Cashmerette provided to me for the dress I sewed for the release (pics below).

As you can see, it was quite windy the day I was trying to get photos. The strong wind seems to be a common occurrence here in East Texas, especially the day before a severe storm hits. Which means spring time is windy (and stormy)!

The good news is this wrap dress is designed with enough overlap that the wind did not expose anything :-)

Here's a pic of the blue dress. This lovely blue cotton knit is from Hart's Fabric.

I choose to use the elbow length sleeves thinking I would wear this dress in the cooler months with boots. However, it turns out I find the boots too warm to wear even during our winter months. I may shorten the sleeves so I can wear this in the summer with sandals.

Here's a back view.

There is only one thing I did differently on the blue version versus the test version. I added lightweight interfacing to the tie ends. I didn't like how the tie belt would bunch up when I wore the dress. Adding the little bit of interfacing helps it to remain flat.

After sewing this dress I was so happy with the fit in the bust - without having to do an FBA! - that I eagerly awaited the release of other patterns in the new size range. In fact, I purchased the Concord Tee pattern the day Cashmerette announced it was available and it has quickly become my go-to t-shirt pattern.

While I'm not 100% convinced I like wrap dresses, if any dress pattern were to change my mind, it's this one.

If you're interested, here's a link to my makes video on YouTube where I model the floral knit dress.

Cashmerette provided the pattern and fabric at no cost in exchange for using my photos on their blog to announce the release of the pattern. I had no obligation to write a blog post and what I've written in my personal option.

Have a blessed day!

McCall's 7836 An Asymmetrical Cut Out Shoulder Top

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Thu, 14 Apr 2022 02:34:00 +0000

I purchased McCall's 7836 when it was released in 2018, with intentions of sewing this asymmetrical cut out shoulder top. However, with my major surgery, followed by the move across country, followed by months of physical therapy because of the surgery...well, it just never happened.

Until January of this year.

Here's the pattern cover. I do remember sewing View B (with one with the big sleeves) before we moved, but I can't find it. Now that I'm thinking about it, I think I gave it to one of my sisters who said she liked it.

I'm glad I didn't sew this until we moved as it really is not a practical design for Minnesota winters. It works much better here in Texas - I can wear it when it's a bit cool outside and I'm not uncomfortable even with my one shoulder exposed.

The pattern is rated Easy (I would agree) and is described as a fitted, pullover top featuring a dropped shoulder. I was concerned it would be too fitted for my large bust so I did a full bust adjustment adding 2". I probably could have added another 1" as I prefer a looser fit in my bust area. Because of that asymmetrical shoulder, I had to do a full bust adjustment on each front piece.

This is a size 14 in the neck/shoulder area, with the full bust adjustment, grading to a 16 at the hip. There is a center front and center back seam.

I used my BERNINA 770QE Plus to sew the top.

I normally stay away from turtlenecks because, well, my large chest. It's not the most flattering look on me. That's why you'll typically see me wearing a long necklace if I wear a higher neckline. But this one I think is okay because of the shoulder being exposed.

I had read a few reviews of the pattern before I sewed mine. Some sewed up the opening on the shoulder saying it was too large. I did not do that. I like the opening just the way it is.

Now, I am not going to wear a strapless bra when I wear this top. And I'm definitely not going braless! Nobody wants to see that, LOL

For these pictures I tucked my bra strap under my arm. Usually I wear a black bra with the top and just let my black bra strap show. I know I was taught to never let my bra strap show, but I honestly don't care in this case.

This version was just supposed to be a test to see if it fit the way I like. But once I was done I realized I liked it out of this fabric.

I used a cheap baby French Terry that I picked up at the local Walmart. It was one of those precut bundles some of the stores carry. The quality of those bundles varies greatly but I pick them up occasionally for sewing test garments. This bundle was two yards for six dollars.

I plan on sewing another, but now that we are into spring the extremely hot weather isn't far behind, so I'll likely wait and sew another next fall.

BTW, I accidentally snapped a pic as I caught myself almost falling! My left foot is still partially numb from the surgery three years ago and sometimes my balance is a bit off. It was a reminder to me that I should probably choose lower heels these days :-)

Blessings!

Vogue 1375 Wool Knit Vest - Sandra Betzina Design

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Mon, 11 Apr 2022 23:22:00 +0000

I was going through old photos on my computer and came across a few makes that I took photos of yet never blogged about. This knit vest is one of them. I sewed this in 2016 or 2017, I don't remember for sure.

The fabric is a lightweight, embroidered wool knit that I purchased from SR Harris. I remember I was drawn to the textured detail of the fabric. I liked it enough that I overlooked the fact that those colors are not colors I normally wear.

That meant I sewed this beautiful vest only to have it sit in my closet as nothing worked with it. I'm trying to be more thoughtful in my fabric purchases as I don't wish to spend time (and money!) sewing a lovely item only to end up donating it because it does not get worn.

Here's the back view. I put a note on the pattern envelope to keep the pattern because the instructions for sewing the lined yoke are really good.

The pattern is Vogue 1375, a Sandra Betzina design from 2013. Back when almost all of us were wearing these flowy knit cardigans and vests.

I sewed one for my girlfriend last year in a slinky black knit. I know I took photos of it before I shipped it off to her so I will have to look for those and write another post.

Vogue 1704 - a Rachel Comey Linen Top with BIG Sleeves!

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Thu, 03 Feb 2022 19:09:00 +0000

I present to you my first finished WIP (work in progress) for 2022!

Y'all, I wish I hadn't waited so long to sew this one as I adore this top!

I mean, c'mon, Look at the amazing sleeves!

I purchased the pattern when it was first released in 2020, and cut it out soon after. I don't recall why I tucked it away, but I THINK it was because I didn't have the right color thread on hand.

The pattern is Vogue 1704, a Rachel Comey design that includes both the top and pants. The design is from her Spring 2019 line. It's look 7 at this Vogue.com runway show link.

When I purchased the pattern, I didn't realize the front edges of the top were finished using an overcast stitch.

Because I don't read the description on the back of the envelopes :-)

Rather than buy serger thread in a color I would never use again, I purchased a couple of regular spools of thread and used those in my serger.

The front pieces are overlapped and stitched in place.

There is a zipper opening on the left side seam. Another detail I was unaware of because I didn't bother to read the description. I didn't have one that matched, but it's invisible so I used a lilac one. There are side slits on each side. The hem hangs properly when worn, I'm not sure why it looks off here.

If I had known both of those details before I cut the top out I may have altered the pattern to a button front, or perhaps moved the invisible zipper to the front. Now I'm glad I didn't know as I like the top just as designed.

The top is described as fitted. The bust for a size 14 (what I used) is 36" and the finished bust measurement printed on the pattern is 40-1/2" giving this top 4-1/2" of ease. However, I would have only had 1/2" of ease - way too tight! So I did a rather large FBA, almost 2". (The pattern already had a dart.) By doing so I also gave myself additional length and width. I like the fact that this has a bit of shaping at the waist, but is still loose enough to feel comfortable.

Now according to my upper bust measurement, I should start with a size 12 and do a full bust adjustment, but I find it easier to start with a 14 and do a slightly smaller FBA :-)

The sleeve has an upper and lower section. You are instructed to sew them together with a French Seam. I didn't do that. I just stitched the seam and finished it with my serger.

There are three upper darts, and four lower pleats that contribute to the fullness. The sleeve is finished with a narrow hem.

Have I mentioned how much I like these sleeves? :-)

The collar and front facing are both interfaced. My interfacing was a medium-weight and it wasn't enough to keep the collar from flopping over.

I suspect the fabric is a linen rayon blend, but I purchased it at SR Harris, and those bolts rarely have fiber content listed.

Because my fabric is a linen blend I like the softness of the collar.

I have no desire to sew the pants. I live in jeans and yoga pants now that I've officially retired.

But the top! I need another as I find myself wearing this one whenever the weather cooperates. (Here in Texas, it's currently just above freezing with the threat of snow and ice as I write this.)

I don't normally take photos in our backyard, so the little one was quite curious what was going on and didn't want to leave me alone.

Blessings and Happy Sewing!

The NEW Itch to Stitch Azores Top

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Tue, 04 Jan 2022 20:01:00 +0000

"There's no way I can wear that" was my first thought when I looked at the line drawings of this pattern.

But then I remembered a top I tried on last summer while at Nordstrom Rack. It had a similar shape with the waist cinched in with elastic thread. I liked it enough that I almost bought it. The almost was because I sew and you know how THAT conversation goes - "I could sew it, I will sew it, etc."

The pattern is the newly released Azores Top and Dress from Itch to Stitch. Here's the line drawing.

The pattern has beautiful details with a shirred waist and wrist, a buttoned yoke with gathers for the bust area, and a short peplum. The pattern has multiple cup sizes also. I sewed an 8 with the DD cup option, grading to a 10 at the waist/hip.

While there is enough room in the bust area, I discovered I will need to add length above the shirring next time. Any movement I make causes the top to ride up making it too short (and uncomfortable to wear). I also found that I will need to add length to the sleeves.

I think the proportion of the shorter peplum works. Just know that you need to wear something high-waisted with a slimmer silhouette on the lower portion of your body to balance out the fullness of the top.

The shirring is created by sewing seven rows 1/4" apart with elastic thread in the bobbin area. I did two separate bobbins (hand winding each time). One I didn't stretch the elastic thread at all, and one I put just a wee bit of tension on the elastic. The one with the wee bit of tension worked best for me.

My fabric is semi-sheer and white and I didn't want to use any type of marking device for the stitch lines, so I marked the first line with blue painters tape.

I used my BERNINA 34D foot so I could easily see while I was stitching.

After stitching the first row I switched to my quarter-inch foot for subsequent rows of elastic.

By the way, I stitched seven rows of elastic, and was perplexed as to why it wasn't gathering up much. I figured it just needed to be steamed, which you do after all rows are stitched. But that didn't work either.

Then it dawned on me that my elastic thread was probably old, as I couldn't recall when I had last used it. I ripped out seven rows of stitching, ran out and purchased new elastic thread, restitched and problem solved :-)

The most difficult part of the top, which is why its rated intermediate, is the yoke as you need to be precise when stitching the corners. Instructions to sew the yoke and facing using the burrito method are included. The slit at the center front has a loop and button closure.

Fabric suggestions include woven fabrics such as lightweight crepe, challis, silky, seorgette, and charmeuse. My fabric was purchased a few years ago from SR Harris and I don't know what the fiber content is.

I was a pattern tester for this top, and in exchange for providing feedback on the instructions and fit, I received a copy of the pattern.

Be sure to check out the pictures of the other pattern testers as you can see what this looks like on many others.

By the way, if you're interested in purchasing the pattern, this link is an affiliate link - Azores Top and Dress Pattern. The cost is the same to you but I receive a tiny commission. You certainly don't have to use the link to purchase either if you'd rather not.

Happy New Year!

Elevated Loungewear - Style Arc Joan Top and McCall's 7786 Pull-on Pants

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Fri, 17 Dec 2021 22:19:00 +0000

Googling the phrase elevated lounge wear will result in a multitude of articles and images showing this trend.

It appears many of us, including me, have settled into a wardrobe that favors comfort. That's why I decided to sew my own elevated lounge wear look for a recent women's event at my church.

This fabric was an impulse buy. I was in Hobby Lobby picking up buttons for some mug rugs I was sewing and saw that the holiday fabric collection was marked 50% off. I rarely purchase fabric from Hobby Lobby, but this black stretch velvet - with glitter - caught my eye. I bought four yards planning to sew a jumpsuit.

Once I was home, busy tracing out the jumpsuit pattern from a BurdaStyle magazine, I came to my senses. I don't wear jumpsuits. Why was I planning to sew one?

I sewed one last year, and the only time I wore it was to take pictures for Instagram. I didn't want to waste my time sewing something that would only be worn once.

I quickly changed course, and pulled out two patterns I've sewn before that I liked (and I knew fit). The Style Arc Joan Woven Top and McCall's 7786 pull-on-pants.

I blogged about the Joan top previously - here

The McCall's pants I have sewn many times and I put a video review together showing seven of them in different fabrics on YouTube (here)

The sewing went quick, because both were TNT (tried and true) patterns for me.

On the top, I sewed a size 12, raised the neckline 1", shortened the top 1-1/2", and eliminated the wide hem facing.

I'm typically a size 16 in McCall's pants. These pants have a flat front waistband, front side pockets, and back elastic.

I didn't realize until I was done that I should have sized down due to using a stretch fabric. I kept pulling the pants up at the event :-). I can make the back elastic smaller so they fit better.

Once I was done sewing the top and pants, I couldn't help but wonder if I had just sewn myself a fancy pair of pajamas. That's why I styled it with necklaces and sequin booties and decided to call it elevated lounge wear! I received multiple compliments the night of event and at the park while taking photographs.

I felt good wearing it at the event, and was comfortable the entire evening, which involved a lot of sitting. By sewing separates, I'll get much more wear out of this look, especially the top which looks great with jeans and booties.

So tell me, are you a fan of the elevated lounge wear trend?

Blessings!

Christmas Apron Video Tutorial - Reversible Apron with Naughty or Nice Applique

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Wed, 15 Dec 2021 14:32:00 +0000

This Christmas Apron makes a great last-minute gift! I sewed a few as gifts last year, and published a video tutorial on YouTube.

The half apron has a pocket on each side, extra long ties so it fits most everyone, and features the words Naughty on one side and Nice on the other. Plus there is no hand-sewing!

I used raw-edge applique technique, but if you have an embroidery machine you could use that to embroider the words.

Check out the video tutorial here - https://youtu.be/49Q1m6y5_sI

To help you navigate through the different steps in this video I've included chapters in the description box.

Be sure to let me know if you sew one as I'd love to see it :-)

The Sewing Workshop Urban Pants ~ Summer Pants in a Linen Blend

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Wed, 13 Oct 2021 12:00:00 +0000

I spend many of my summer days wearing denim short shorts and tees (and I'm talking really short as in I don't wear them in public any further than my mailbox, haha!) When I need to run an errand, or attend a meeting, or simply want to walk the dog, I switch to pants. That's when I realized I was seriously lacking casual, yet cute, pants.

For my birthday my daughter had given me a gift certificate to Emma One Sock, where I saw this Red Clay linen/tencel/cotton blend fabric. I loved the color and purchased it with visions of using it to make some loose-fitting pants.

Earlier this year, I had joined the "Sew Confident! Series 10" offered by The Sewing Workshop. Because of that I had Sewing Workshop patterns on my mind and choose to sew The Urban Pants. I had sewn the Urban Tee a few times previously, but never the pants.

The pants are described as cropped, straight-leg with a center front seam with faced vent and button and loop detail, no side seam, flat waistband in front with elastic sides and back. I liked the idea of a cropped pant and partial elastic waist, so I forged ahead.

For a pull-on pant, they took much more time to sew than I thought they would! First of all, the fabric was probably too lightweight for pants, even though pants were listed as a good project for the fabric. The cut edges raveled easily and I was concerned that seams would pull out when I wore the pants, even though they're fairly loose-fitting. I did serge all of the edges before sewing the seams.

The slowest part was the faced vent. Somehow I didn't measure accurately and ended up with the hem on one side of the vent 3/8" longer than the other side. Honestly, no one probably would have noticed. But it would have bothered me every time I wore these. So I ripped out the stitches, remeasured, and restitched.

The vent closes with a button and loop. I really didn't want to purchase two buttons and settled on gold buttons that I had in my (small) button stash.

The waistband is a separate pattern piece, a detail that I appreciate. The elastic is inserted and stitched in place at the center front seam so that part of the waistband is flat. There's no interfacing at the front of the waistband so it does fold over when worn.

I thought I would really like that partial flat waistband, but on me? Not so much. It's my body shape. I have quite a bit of high hip fluff combined with an almost non-existent waist and the pants aren't as flattering as I had hoped they might be.

I do wish these had pockets! I'm not sure what year this pattern was released, but I'm pretty sure we didn't all carry our cell phones with us at the time. With no side seam there is no easy way to add pockets if I were to sew these again. Which I won't.

The pants are out of my comfort zone as this is not a style I normally wear. I don't feel "good" when I'm wearing them, but it might just be that I need my eye to adapt to a shape I'm not used to. Even though they aren't getting much wear I'm glad I tried the pattern.

Have you ever had high hopes for a pattern that ended up to be a "meh" once completed?

Vogue 1831 - Designer Inspired Jacket with Back Bow Detail

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Tue, 12 Oct 2021 19:19:00 +0000

Vogue 1831 features a jacket inspired by one seen in the Gucci Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collection.( Here's a link to the collection - this jacket is look number 80.)

In my opinion, the best part of the jacket is the back with the inverted pleat and bow!

I sewed the jacket in an embroidered silk suiting from Fabric Mart Fabrics as part of their Fabricista program. (Link to the Fabricista blog here)

This pattern was part of Vogue's 2021 Fall release. I purchased the pattern when it was on sale for $5.99 at the Something Delightful website.

While I may not wear it buttoned most of the time, I will definitely wear it with jeans. The boot cut jeans I'm wearing are purchased.

These wider leg denim pants are from the pattern. I went down a size (due to stretch denim I used) and narrowed the bottom flare about 6". They're wearable but I'm still not too fond of them.

The jacket is fully lined which always feels so wonderful when worn. I used a rayon lining, also from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

I did eliminate the front patch pockets as I thought the placement was odd. Even moving them down closer to the hem didn't look right. I used a faux leather remnant I had on hand for the contrast collar.

If you're interested in more pics and details, I have a review video on both pieces on my YouTube channel. You can view it here.

Blessings!

Minerva - A Statement Sleeve Dress in Metallic Brocade using Vogue 1798

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Tue, 12 Oct 2021 01:46:00 +0000

When Vogue patterns released the Rachel Comey Lurie dress as Vogue 1798, I knew this was going on my to-sew list as I was drawn to those sleeves. I know statement sleeves can be polarizing, but I love them.

The lightweight metallic brocade was not a recommended fabrics for this fully lined dress, but I think it turned out beautifully. I really like those sleeves :-)

The fabric was provided to me from Minerva in exchange for writing a review on their website, which you can read here.

BTW, the pattern for the sleeve is 36" wide!

McCall's 8201 ~ A Floral Peasant Style Bubble Top

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Sat, 28 Aug 2021 18:08:00 +0000

When McCall's 8201 was released this past spring, I thought it was cute but had no plans to add it to my collection. Soon after the release, I purchased a top that was quite similar in style. I found myself wearing it often enough that I decided to buy the pattern to sew another top.

Here's the pattern cover. As you can see it's designed to be cropped. I sewed View C, adding 1" to the length.

I expected this to be a quick sew, and was surprised to discover the top is completely lined. The elastic is inserted between the fashion fabric and the lining at the neck, arm, and bottom edges.

The instructions have you bag the lining. Which, if you've ever bagged the lining in a jacket, that's not always a quick process. You need to think about what you're doing, as it isn't always intuative. Well, at least for me it isn't. The nice thing is that there are no exposed seams inside.

There are separate pattern pieces for the fashion fabric and the lining fabric as the lining is about 1" shorter in length. This creates a "bubble" effect at all of the edges.

The fabric is a beautiful Italian viscose crepe I purchased from Emma One Sock (as of Aug. 28, 2021 it was still available - click here). My daughter had given me a gift certificate to Emma One Sock as a birthday gift and this was one of the fabrics I picked out. (Does she know me or what?!?) I lined it with a white batiste I had on hand.

The pattern has a LOT of ease! I sewed a size Medium with no alterations. The bust measurement for a medium is 36" and the bust area of this top measures 52". I wanted that loose, oversized look, but you may want less ease. Just something to keep in mind if you sew this.

As mentioned earlier, I added 1" to the length of the top and I think I'll add two more when I sew this again. It does ride up a bit more than I'd like when I raise my arms.

Even though both of my fabrics are fairly lightweight, this top is a bit warm to wear when the heat and humidity are high. But honestly, that hasn't kept me from wearing this quite frequently as I really like it.

In these photos it looks boxier than it does in real life. I usually pair this top with pair of white jeans but those were in the laundry the day I took pics for the blog.

Looking at the pattern cover I was concerned the neckline would be too wide and expose my bra straps. I'm happy to tell you that hasn't been a problem.

I plan on sewing another soon!

I hope you have a blessed day! Happy Sewing!

Simplicity 8707 - A Sleevless Ruffled Maxi Length Duster

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Wed, 25 Aug 2021 15:07:00 +0000

This maxi duster is a great layering piece! I toss it on when I want to be comfortable in the heat and am looking for a little more style than a knit cami provides.

Plus it was a quick and easy hack using Simplicity 8707, a kimono pattern released in 2019.

I've sewn this jacket seven times previously (one view C, four adult view A, and two child view A) and knew this fabric was a good choice for another. However, I didn't want another plain ole' view A version.

As I had plenty of this fabric, I decided to add two ruffled tiers to the bottom. I measured the distance from the bottom of the pattern to the floor and divided that in thirds. The top ruffle is about 1/3 the length and the bottom is about 2/3. I also added 1/2" seam allowances where needed.

To determine the width of the ruffles I measured the bottom edge of the jacket. For the top ruffle I multiplied that measurement by two, and multiplied it by three for the bottom ruffle, creating the fullness I wanted.

This worked well for my fabric as it's fairly lightweight. It's a polyester crepe, almost sheer. I don't recall where I found it though. Because of the weight, adding the ruffles did not make the topper heavy and the ruffles flow softly around my legs as I walk.

You may notice this has no sleeves. Well, that was not by design. I started out adding ruffles to the sleeves and decided it was too much with the ruffled bottom. I sliced into one of the sleeves when I was removing the ruffles. Instead of trying to fix it, I simply removed the sleeves. I rather like it!

I did French seams on the shoulder and sides, but not on the ruffles. I finished those seams with my serger. To finish the front edge and hems, I serged the edges, pressed to the inside, and stitched in place. I discovered when it's windy the front flips open, and I'm thinking I will add a self-fabric tie to help keep it closed.

With temperatures cooling off to the mid-80s today (ha!ha!) this will be a perfect layering piece as I run errands.

I hope you have a blessed day, and Happy Sewing!

The Spirren Tank Top from Itch to Stitch

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Thu, 05 Aug 2021 15:05:00 +0000

With the heat wave we've been experiencing (not unusual as it IS summer in Texas!) I've found myself wearing sleeveless dresses and tops frequently. That way I'm comfortable when I have to be outside, and if I happen to be in place where the A/C is rather freezing (why do they do that?!?) I can simply add a cardi.

When the call went out to test the Spirren Tank Top from Itch to Stitch I quickly signed up. I knew it was something that would work with my lifestyle, and the design looked to be flattering.

The fitted tank top includes options for regular and full bust, with a slightly curved V neck, gathers at the shoulder seam, pleats under the bust, and a lined front bodice.

I choose my size based on the measurements provided, sewing a size 8, with the full bust option, for the front and cut a size 10 in the back.

I decided on that sizing after sewing a a straight size 10, with full bust option, for my test version. I felt it was a bit large around my upper bust area, and under my arms.

I would not suggest stripes as it gives a bit of a droopy bust look :-) Since this was sewn just to test the fit and instructions I wasn't too concerned about the fabric.

In fact the fabric began life as an XL Lularoe tunic I found for $1 at a consignment shop. Normally I won't purchase larger sizes to refashion as I know a few people who have mentioned how hard it is to find larger sizes in thrift and consignment shops. However, once it hit the $1 sale I knew it was not of interest to most people.

I have a six inch difference between my upper and full bust measurements, and found there was plenty of room in the bust area.

I will lengthen the front bodice slightly next time, as I discovered it hits me at the lower edge of my bra rather than under my bra. With this floral fabric its not too noticeable, but if I can achieve a better fit with a slight alteration why wouldn't I?

When I first saw that the upper bodice was completely lined, my first thought was "ugh, that's extra work". Ha!Ha! BUT, oh my, does it make sewing that V neck easy and is a lovely look on the outside of the garment! Plus, with the lining it provides a little extra coverage in the bust area.

The only sewing part I found a bit difficult was the gathers at the shoulder line. I had to really watch and make sure that the back armhole and neckline matched up nicely before stitching. The back armholes and neckline are finished before the back is attached to the front. You end up sandwiching the back shoulder seam between the front and lining pieces. It sounds confusing, but follow the instructions. It works!

I wasn't going to show you the inside as I was having trouble with the tension on my serger stitches, but I think it's helpful to see if you end up sewing this one. I didn't have enough fabric to self line so I used a knit lining. The neck, V front, and armhole seams are all stabilized with strips of interfacing or fusible stay tape. You also understitch the lining (as much as possible) and it really helps encourage the main fabric to roll slightly to the inside.

The reason I didn't have enough fabric to self line is because this top began life as a knit dress I purchased for $1 at that consignment shop! I think it had been left unsold as the button at the back of the neckline was missing. It was a cute dress and I considered wearing it for the summer, but I really like this fabric as the Spirren Tank Top!

My plan is sew another soon, and no, I'm not going to use a $1 item next time :-) . I think I'll sew an animal print one as that will transition very well into the fall season.

The PDF pattern comes in sizes 00 - 40 (bust sizes 31-1/8" to 60") and requires knit fabric with 50% stretch. It was released today (August 5, 2021) and will be on sale (20% off) through August 11, 2021. You can read more about the top here BTW, that link is an affiliate link (which means - at no additional cost to you - I get a small commission if you use it to purchase the pattern. I use those funds to help support the Sharon Sews YouTube channel).

The day I took these photos it was 90 degrees F at 8 am, and it appears that type of heat will be continuing for a while. Which means I'm going to get a lot of wear out of my new Spirren Tank Top!

Blessings!

https://itch-to-stitch.com/product/glenelly-top-dress-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/?affiliates=sewingbysharon

Three Tops and a Dress | The Itch to Stitch Glenelly Top and Dress Pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Sat, 26 Jun 2021 22:41:00 +0000

As I was going through my summer wardrobe, it became apparent that I was lacking knit tops. You know, something I could toss on with a pair of shorts and still look halfway decent when it's oppressively hot outside. Like it has been for the past few weeks.

Luckily, I had a chance to test a new top (and dress) pattern from Itch to Stitch and now that hole in my wardrobe is quickly being filled.

The Glenelly Top and Dress pattern may look like a basic raglan sleeve top but it has a few extras. First of all, there is a regular and full bust option. If you've been following me for a while you know that I appreciate a well drafted pattern that has the FBA (or full bust option) already done for me. The pattern also has a slightly squared neckline (a fashion trend right now - see my Pinterest Board) with excellent neckband sewing instructions. Here's the line drawing.

The first version I sewed was this pink and red one. I didn't plan on color blocking the sleeves, but I was using fabric left over from another project (a big FAIL that I never blogged about) and didn't have enough pink fabric for the sleeves.

I really like it in the two colors.

It's been in the 90s and this has become my go-to top when we walk the dog. Who is looking pretty scruffy in these photos. I better get busy and schedule a visit to the groomers :-)

Now if I could only remember where I purchased this fabulous cotton spandex knit as I want to buy more! Much, much more. It was a dream to sew and is so comfortable to wear.

Next I sewed a turquoise blue top. I adore this color, especially for summer!

This fabric is a rayon jersey and is heavier than most rayon knits I've sewn. I love the feel of the knit and it is very comfortable to wear in this hot weather. The only drawback is that it shows off my lumps and bumps. Especially that back roll that has arrived in the last six months and refuses to leave. There's a reason you're not seeing the back views of my tops, Ha Ha!

Since this top only takes about an hour to sew I decided to whip up another. This time I used a double brushed polyester knit, which has the softest feel! Alas, I forgot to take into account that it didn't have the 50% stretch that this top was designed for so it's tighter than I'd like.

By the way, I discovered that my camera makes a difference in how my top looks. And by camera I mean my cell phone set on a tripod that I control with a remote clicker :-) I think this top looks pretty flattering in these pics, but trust me it doesn't look as good when I check it out in a mirror.

This floral knit top shows the square neckline the best. The neckline might not be as square on me as I have narrow and sloping shoulders. The designer does have a tutorial on her website for a narrow shoulder adjustment, and maybe I'll try that on the next one I sew.

After sewing three tops I decided to try the dress. I mean, who doesn't love a comfy knit dress?

I liked that the gathers were limited to the front and back of the skirt - no excess gathers along the side edges.

For the dress I graded up a size at the waist and hip as I wanted a looser fit.

Once I realized how comfy this dress was I was disappointed to discover that I didn't have any knits on hand that would work to sew another one, or two, or 12. Seriously, I could live in this dress all summer long.

I do wish it had pockets. But that's a easy thing to add, something I will be doing on my next dress.

The ITY knit I used for the dress was purchased as a pre-cut bundle at Walmart. It was three yards for six dollars and I was pleasantly surprised at the quality.

The pattern is a PDF pattern, and I've become much more comfortable with the printing, taping, and copying needed. I still prefer a printed pattern but no longer rule out a pattern just because it's a PDF.

If you think you may purchase this pattern, I'd be appreciative if you'd use my affiliate link. I doesn't cost you anything, and it provides me with a small commission which I use to continue to produce content on my YouTube channel.

Oh! Be sure to check out the Itch to Stitch blog post on this pattern as you can see this top and dress on all of the pattern testers. I think it looks flattering on everyone.

I published a short video on YouTube where I model each of these if you're interested. If you're not subscribed you can find my channel by searching "Sharon Sews" on YouTube, or click this link.

And I leave you with this photo of the moment I sat down and was unprepared for the little one to jump on my lap. When she was a puppy she jumped on my lap every single time I sat down. I guess some things never change.

Blessings!

BLOG

Black and White Voile Top 113 From May 2019 BurdaStyle Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Tue, 22 Jun 2021 01:33:00 +0000

When I received the May 2019 issue of BurdaStyle magazine I glanced through it, marked a few garments I wanted to sew, and tucked the magazine away. After all, we were only a month into our cross-country move and I was still recovering from my major surgery (I wrote a post about it here)

I knew the button front top, #113, was one I wanted to sew. I liked the v-neckline, the big sleeves and the way the pleats created a small peplum. Well, it only took two years but it's done!

Here's the line drawing from the magazine.

I used a black and white voile that I received in a mystery bundle from Fabric Mart Fabrics. It turned out to be a good choice as it's lightweight, an important factor where I live, but also holds its shape.

The shaping at the bottom of the sleeves is created with darts. I did expect the sleeves to have more drama, but I found them to be a bit subdued.

The faux peplum is created with pleats at the waistline (in the front) combined with a slightly curved side seam.

Burda Magazine patterns usually fit me with minimal adjustments, including the bust area. On this top I lowered the front pleats by 1" or the fullness for my bust would have been too high.

My waist is about 1-1/2" lower than where the waist on this top is and I'll need to lower that if I decide to sew this one again. I think I will also lengthen the top an inch or two.

The top closes with only four buttons (per the design) so it is open along the lower front. There's enough overlap that I don't feel exposed.

I used buttons I've had in my stash for quite some time. Long enough that I no longer remember when they were purchased. I'd forgotten how delicate shell buttons can be, and one broke as I removed it from the card.

I'm glad I finally found time to sew this top, and once the temps cool off again (at least below 80 degrees F) I suspect I'll wear this often.

And my little one pictured in a few of these photos...well, she's no longer allowed outside of the gate. She's always been so well-behaved but a few days ago I opened the garage door and she ran past me to the street and growled at two dogs that were leashed and on a walk in front of our home. I'll be extra vigilant when I open doors to the outside in the future!

Blessings!

Vogue 8588 - Side Drape Pants with Big Pockets

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Mon, 14 Jun 2021 15:28:00 +0000

I remember pondering whether or not to purchase Vogue 8588 when it was released in 2009. I ultimately decided against it as I was working in a fairly conservative environment and didn't think I'd have too many opportunities to wear them.

Of course once the pattern became OOP (out of print) I wanted it. But not enough to pay the high prices when I would find it on Etsy and eBay, haha. Can you relate?

Recently a sewing friend sent me a few patterns she was not going to use, and Vogue 8588 was included! Lucky me!

The pants are rated easy and described as "above ankle length, with upper and lower sections forming drapes at the sides, large pockets, and stitched hems". Here's the pattern cover and line drawing.

The pants are designed for knits and I used a floral ITY from Metro Textiles. I sewed a 14 and found there is quite a bit of ease, especially since the fabric is fairly lightweight.

I'll admit, combining a bold print with a bold design is not for everyone. I'm your typical extroverted introvert (and more of a behind-the-scenes type), but when it comes to my clothing choices if I like something I don't care if it causes people to do a double take :-)

I did have to really think about how to lay out the pattern pieces as I had a hard time figuring out exactly how they would go together. Because the fabric had such a large floral print, I was trying to keep it somewhat symmetric on the left and right sides.

One thing I hadn't considered was the curved seamline along the front and back. The top of the pants (front and back) ended up black so that curved seam is evident, as you can see in this photo. I won't wear a shirt tucked in so it won't be that noticeable.

By the way, I used the leftover floral knit to sew a Cashmerette Concord Tee so I would have a faux jumpsuit look. Sadly, the summer heat has arrived - after a long bout of daily rain and cooler weather - and the ITY knit tee is uncomfortable to wear outside.

The pattern is easy to sew but you do have to make sure you mark all of the dots. If my fabric would have looked the same on both sides it would have been important to mark right and wrong sides too.

Did I mention my favorite part is the BIG pockets?!? They're not really practical but they sure are fun.

These pants are even more comfortable than my leggings! I plan on sewing a pair in black soon.

Blessings!

McCall's 7786 Wide Leg Pants | One Pattern Seven Ways

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Sat, 05 Jun 2021 22:10:00 +0000

About a month ago I found myself pulling out one of my favorite wide-leg pants pattern, McCall's 7786. I've sewn it seven times over the past two years so I guess it now qualifies as a TNT (tried and true) pattern.

The pattern is an easy-to-sew, wide-leg pants with a few different views. There is a flat front waistband, elastic in the back and side front pockets.

I sewed my first pair soon after we moved cross-country, about six weeks after my major surgery. At the time I had very little strength and limited mobility. If I wanted to dress myself without assistance I needed items that were oversized with no zippers or buttons. My hands would not have been able to work the button and buttonholes, and I didn't have enough strength to zip up a zipper. Because of that I sized up on the majority of these when they were sewn. I've begun to resize the pants as I no longer have that concern and want a better fit.

Here are the ones I have sewn (so far!)

The blue and white floral border print was the first pair I sewed. I deliberately went up a size to make it easier for me to get on and off (it's hard to remember that just two years ago I had trouble pulling these up by myself!) The fabric had been purchased from SR Harris to sew a dress, but I love it in these pants.

View D, with the side flounces, was the reason I purchased this pattern. I used a striped polyester crepe de chine purchased from Craftsy. At the time my serger was busted so I hemmed those side flounces with a tiny hem on my machine. These are my favorites!

Next I sewed a pair using a lightweight floral ponte knit. I sewed the pants to go along with a knit wrap jacket I sewed using a vintage Betsey Johnson pattern. (Blog post here.) I had it in my head that it would be a cute floral "suit" but ugh. The two pieces together were too much. I do like them as separates though!

For my next pair I used a panel print. I lined up the bottom of the pant along the edge of the panel so it appeared to be a border print. The panel was short so I shortened the pants. At this point I was sewing just to sew, as it was about the only activity I was capable of doing. I also think using the scissors helped me start to regain strength in my hands. I don't care for this pair.

This next pair looked so fabulous in my mind. It is a lightweight stretch denim with pearls sewn along one edge. I found the fabric at Joann Fabrics and thought it would work great as a border print. I remember my hubby had to come and help me remove the pearls from the seam lines as I was still pretty weak. I hate the way these feel when I wear them and may rip them apart and reuse the fabric.

This pair is View C with a large ruffle sewn diagonally starting just above the knee. The fabric is a beautiful floral linen blend from Minerva, where I wrote an post about the pants. There is a lot of fabric and I love the movement when I walk.

This pair was sewn with a stretch cotton poplin shirting from Fabric Mart Fabrics. Sometimes I wear these instead of jeans if I'm simply out running errands. I love the tropical print for spring and summer.

I have sewn seven so far, and suspect I'll have a few more in my closet before the summer is over.

On my YouTube channel I put a video together to show how each looked with the different fabrics. If you're interested here's the link - "1 Pattern 3 Ways (plus some!) "

McCall's 8180 ~ Big Collar Button Front Shirt

noreply@blogger.com (Sharon Sews) — Mon, 26 Apr 2021 16:34:00 +0000

Once the 80s oversized collar trend left I swore I'd never wear it again. I resisted when I started seeing the big collar hit the runways and online stores. Yet here I am today wearing a big collar shirt and I'll admit (sheepishly) that I like it.

The pattern I used is McCall's 8180, which has no description printed on the pattern envelop. However, there is one included on the website: Misses' peter pan ruffled, collared blouses with short & long sleeves. View A: ruffled collar. View B & C: large collar.

McCall's 8180 Sewing Pattern Cover from somethingdelightful dot com

I purchased the pattern to use as a starting point for a top I had seen online that I wanted to recreate. Here's a screen shot (I have no idea why I didn't save the information regarding where I found it so I could get more details regarding fabric, etc.)

I also saw this top that is so close to view C of this pattern. I do like when I can sew a designer look with an existing pattern that 1) fits me the way I want and 2) costs much less than the RTW. This one retails for $990 on Farfetch. Even if I purchase a high-cost silk crepe de chine I could sew this for less than retail :-)

Back to this pattern. The pattern did not list if it was fitted, semi-fitted, loose fitting, etc. and I wanted something something loose fitting. I'm all about comfort in this season of my life and I don't want a fitted woven shirt. Unless it includes lycra :-)

I can never tell for sure the intended fit based on the modeled garment on the pattern covers, so I looked at the line drawings. With the little "folds" drawn into the lower portion of the top I thought it would be semi-fittted.

Then I looked at the finished garment measurements. Based on a size 14 (the size I start with for a woven top) the finished bust measurement is listed as 39", which would only provide 3" of ease in the bust area. The finished bottom width is listed as 44", which would provide 6" of ease. According to my Fit for Real People book, the 3" of ease at the bustline would classify this top as "fitted".

I added a 1" full bust adjustment, and graded the bottom to a size 16. After the side seams were sewn I tried it on and ended up resewing the side seams with a 3/8" seam instead of 5/8" to try and get a little bit more room. If you look closely you can see that the buttons are pulling slightly across my bust, indicating that I need more room in that area. One inch was not enough and I'll need to add at least another inch to get the look - and feel - I want.

It's not as evident while I'm standing still taking photos, but it pulls when I move.

I knew this was going to be a test garment, so I used a low-cost lightweight cotton that I think I purchased at Hobby Lobby a few months ago. I think it turned out cute, but I don't know how much I'll actually wear it as it feels tight across the bust.

I eliminated the interfacing in the collar as I wanted a soft collar. All seams were finished using my serger. I used a narrow three-thread on my serger to hem the sleeve flounces instead of a narrow hem. The pattern calls for 3/8" buttons and I went up to a 1/2" because of my aging and arthritic hands. The difference isn't so much that it changes the design, but enough to help me button and unbutton the top easily.

I think the back looks nice. The top looks great when I'm standing still, but when I move it gets hung up on my high hip, so I am going to add more ease to the hip area next time. I also like the length of the top. This is a way I can wear the current "cropped" top look and still have enough coverage to feel comfortable that I won't expose my belly, an area I prefer to keep under wraps :-)

One thing to note, the instructions do not have you add ease stitches to the sleeve cap before inserting into the armhole. Now I don't draft patterns, I just sew them, so perhaps this is normal at times? I don't know. I went ahead and added two rows of ease stitching between the small dots and eased the sleeve into the armhole.

I'm surprised at how much I like this top! I didn't like the pattern at all when it was released, and never would have purchased it if I had not see that inspiration top. I think with a few additional adjustments to get the fit I want I'll be sewing myself another summer top.

Have a blessed day!