<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" media="screen" href="/~d/styles/atom10full.xsl"?><?xml-stylesheet type="text/css" media="screen" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~d/styles/itemcontent.css"?><feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:openSearch="http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearch/1.1/" xmlns:blogger="http://schemas.google.com/blogger/2008" xmlns:georss="http://www.georss.org/georss" xmlns:gd="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005" xmlns:thr="http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0" xmlns:feedburner="http://rssnamespace.org/feedburner/ext/1.0" gd:etag="W/&quot;DEAHRn48cCp7ImA9WhBbFkU.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325</id><updated>2013-05-16T07:45:37.078+01:00</updated><category term="Soldering" /><category term="Verrier" /><category term="Colour" /><category term="Kiln Firings" /><category term="Viscosity" /><category term="Display" /><category term="Thick Glass" /><category term="Inclusions" /><category term="Dams" /><category term="Zinc came" /><category term="Kiln shelves" /><category term="Designing" /><category term="Acid etching" /><category term="Cleaning glass" /><category term="Acute Angles" /><category term="Foils" /><category term="Annealing" /><category term="Commissions" /><category term="Side firing" /><category term="Lead Came" /><category term="Wire" /><category term="Kiln furniture" /><category term="Reinforcement" /><category term="Bones" /><category term="Thin glass" /><category term="Draping" /><category term="Double glazing" /><category term="Glass Composition" /><category term="Thermal Shock" /><category term="Glass bending" /><category term="Templates" /><category term="Bead Making in Glasgow" /><category term="Beads" /><category term="Tack Fusing" /><category term="Resists" /><category term="Cold Working" /><category term="Pricing" /><category term="Aperture drops" /><category term="kiln preparation" /><category term="Promotion" /><category term="Lamps" /><category term="Glass Adjustments" /><category term="Installations" /><category term="Safety" /><category term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category term="Sun Catchers" /><category term="Measurement" /><category term="Leading" /><category term="Fire polishing" /><category term="Paints and Enamels" /><category term="Flip and Fire" /><category term="Brushes" /><category term="Circles" /><category term="Stress" /><category term="Chemicals" /><category term="CoE" /><category term="Schedules" /><category term="Slumping" /><category term="Glass Types" /><category term="Glass Painting" /><category term="Packaging" /><category term="Glass and Heat" /><category term="Copper Foil Tips" /><category term="Sandblastng" /><category term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category term="Devitrification" /><category term="Glass Separators" /><category term="Materials" /><category term="Leaded Glass Tips" /><category term="Repairs" /><category term="Supports" /><category term="Kiln Supplies" /><category term="Flux" /><category term="Storage" /><category term="Surface Decoration" /><category term="Grinding and Polishing Glass" /><category term="Bubbles" /><category term="Glues" /><category term="Exhibitions" /><category term="Compatibility" /><category term="Curves" /><category term="Frit" /><category term="Selling" /><category term="Contracts" /><category term="Moulds" /><category term="Kilns" /><category term="Air brushing" /><category term="Casting" /><category term="Cartoons" /><category term="Cementing" /><category term="Glue Chipping" /><category term="Drilling" /><category term="Texture" /><category term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category term="Glass and metal" /><category term="Etching Processes" /><category term="Finishing" /><category term="Cullet" /><category term="Silicone" /><category term="Tools" /><category term="Glass Handling" /><category term="Stains" /><category term="kiln forming" /><category term="Glass Cutting Tips" /><title>Glass Tips</title><subtitle type="html">A collection of hints and tips gathered from many years working with stained glass, kiln formed glass, acid etching, sandblasting and other areas</subtitle><link rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/" /><link rel="next" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default?start-index=26&amp;max-results=25&amp;redirect=false&amp;v=2" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/17854964450984329333</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="21" height="32" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rCXSDKWnz0U/SVu_hwBw3_I/AAAAAAAAAkQ/7ouScKv7_K8/S220/StevePspt2.JPG" /></author><generator version="7.00" uri="http://www.blogger.com">Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>589</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/blogspot/GOoLX" /><feedburner:info uri="blogspot/goolx" /><atom10:link xmlns:atom10="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" rel="hub" href="http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/" /><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;C0YCQXY-eSp7ImA9WhBbFkw.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-8855849229575297920</id><published>2013-05-15T10:46:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-15T10:46:00.851+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-15T10:46:00.851+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Painting" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Materials" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><title>Fixing Paint for Transport  </title><summary type="html">



The
very cheapest hair spray works well with glass paint, if you need to
transfer your painted glass to another place for firing.  Complete the painting and then spray with cheap hair spray as you would to fix
a charcoal drawing. This will hold the paint firmly during transport
and does not affect the paint during firing.
&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/MsFVhG0kuFw" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/8855849229575297920/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/05/fixing-paint-for-transport.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8855849229575297920?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8855849229575297920?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/MsFVhG0kuFw/fixing-paint-for-transport.html" title="Fixing Paint for Transport  " /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St., Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/05/fixing-paint-for-transport.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;D08HQHo7eCp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-8160995822456437593</id><published>2013-05-10T10:41:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:10:31.400+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:10:31.400+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Painting" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Materials" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><title>Tracing on Opalescent Glass  </title><summary type="html">

Opalescent
and dense glass presents problems as the usual method of tracing the
image through the glass is not possible.  If you first spray the
glass with a cheap hair spray, this gives a “toothed” surface to
the glass.  Then using carbon paper an image can be transferred. 
However, the carbon paper leaves a greasy residue, so water based
paint will not take, but an oil medium will.
&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/TMlwmud5dzc" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/8160995822456437593/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/05/tracing-on-opalescent-glass.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8160995822456437593?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8160995822456437593?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/TMlwmud5dzc/tracing-on-opalescent-glass.html" title="Tracing on Opalescent Glass  " /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson StGlasgow,G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/05/tracing-on-opalescent-glass.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;Dk8GQXs_cSp7ImA9WhBUF0k.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-2724088306186646160</id><published>2013-05-05T10:07:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-05T10:07:00.549+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-05T10:07:00.549+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Painting" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Materials" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Paints and Enamels" /><title>Matting</title><summary type="html">

Oil,
and Water and Gum as Media for Matting by Dick Millard [edited from a
discussion]

Oil
has been used, I believe, since the 16th Century, and certainly up
through the 1970's to today. It is used wherever it is determined it
should be used, and one is sufficiently informed and facile to use it
in a manner of delivering its full and lovely potential.  




First
of all, oil is not &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/333u88i9fEY" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/2724088306186646160/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/05/matting.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2724088306186646160?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2724088306186646160?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/333u88i9fEY/matting.html" title="Matting" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uUgMqH0AOF8/UPJ2Th40lDI/AAAAAAAAB7o/FAqaB7LfaOc/s72-c/images-1.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/05/matting.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DkABRHk-eCp7ImA9WhBUFEk.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-3592368851220669655</id><published>2013-04-30T10:36:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-01T22:45:55.750+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-01T22:45:55.750+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Painting" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Materials" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><title>Tracing with a Pen </title><summary type="html">

Example of a pen nib





Using
paint mixed with essential oil or turpentine and with a fine mapping pen for small lettering
works well, as the oil flows better than water.  Although with
practice, a water based paint can be used with a pen, but it is a
little tedious as the pen has to be loaded frequently with a tracing
brush and constantly cleaned as the water dries quickly.





Examples of &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/dLdKNboWgMA" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/3592368851220669655/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/tracing-with-pen.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/3592368851220669655?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/3592368851220669655?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/dLdKNboWgMA/tracing-with-pen.html" title="Tracing with a Pen " /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P-iJ3DO7bBA/UPJ0rckExSI/AAAAAAAAB7M/RdzUT0BS8Fg/s72-c/Unknown.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/tracing-with-pen.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkMERXo5cCp7ImA9WhBVGEU.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-6263485830432856935</id><published>2013-04-25T10:00:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-04-25T10:00:04.428+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-04-25T10:00:04.428+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Copper Foil Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Leaded Glass Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Designing" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Leading" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><title>Radiating Lines</title><summary type="html">




 
 
 
 




In
designs for leaded and copper foiled glass it is important to avoid
lines radiating from a single point.  Some of these reasons are:








It
is important to reduce the number of lines that meet in any design to
avoid a big bright solder place in a panel.






Example of pattern with radiating lines



It
makes for large solder blobs, especially on leaded glass panels, and
&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/nQU3M1pbtVs" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/6263485830432856935/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/radiating-lines.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/6263485830432856935?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/6263485830432856935?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/nQU3M1pbtVs/radiating-lines.html" title="Radiating Lines" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F8SK2c2jrgI/UPJxxoHAtDI/AAAAAAAAB6U/_D6jrtPgHLc/s72-c/images-5.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/radiating-lines.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkIHR3g4fCp7ImA9WhBbE0Q.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-4031548779893679686</id><published>2013-04-23T14:43:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-12T21:28:56.634+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T21:28:56.634+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Aperture drops" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Moulds" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Slumping" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="kiln forming" /><title>Aperture Drops Blank Sizes</title><summary type="html">
As the glass drops through the aperture, it stretches, but the whole substance of the piece is drawn toward the hole.  If there is not enough spare glass around the hole, the whole piece will be drawn through the aperture.


There is a minimum size of the glass in relation to the size of the drop out hole. Up to some maximum size, the greater the diameter of the hole the 
greater the amount of &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/eIVlBa7fXeo" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/4031548779893679686/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2011/07/aperture-drops-blank-sizes.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4031548779893679686?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4031548779893679686?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/eIVlBa7fXeo/aperture-drops-blank-sizes.html" title="Aperture Drops Blank Sizes" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2011/07/aperture-drops-blank-sizes.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEQMQ3k8cCp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-8235784464660108060</id><published>2013-04-20T10:00:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:19:42.778+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:19:42.778+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Leaded Glass Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Installations" /><title>Temporarily Securing Panels</title><summary type="html">



When installing panels into an window
opening or frame, you often need to secure it while you finish
puttying or use other forms of weather proofing.



If you use sprigs (headless nails) or
even carpet tacks, use them where there are leads meeting the
perimeter.  There us less chance of a stray hammer strike hitting the
glass.  It is more likely to strike the lead and so cushion the
impact &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/CN0WOdWQRjM" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/8235784464660108060/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/temporarily-securing-panels.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8235784464660108060?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8235784464660108060?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/CN0WOdWQRjM/temporarily-securing-panels.html" title="Temporarily Securing Panels" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JH6oJY6OuWw/UPJuIwodbuI/AAAAAAAAB6A/C8fB7WZ6h6o/s72-c/images.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/temporarily-securing-panels.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEQBQHkzcCp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-2458331800243848171</id><published>2013-04-15T10:00:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:19:11.788+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:19:11.788+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Kiln Firings" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Schedules" /><title>Initial Heat Up Rates</title><summary type="html">

Example of a graph of a heat up for industrial purposes



There is quite a lot of information on
the annealing cool rates, but not so much on the initial heat up
rates.  This is probably because the cooling rates are more critical
than the heat up.  But everyone knows that you can heat the glass up
too quickly for its thickness.




My experience leads me to suggest some
heat up rates to 50C &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/lBcuBhg0VUc" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/2458331800243848171/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/initial-heat-up-rates.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2458331800243848171?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2458331800243848171?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/lBcuBhg0VUc/initial-heat-up-rates.html" title="Initial Heat Up Rates" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Wx9cxIOXLw/UPJsATgH65I/AAAAAAAAB5s/VIIjJqXbkLU/s72-c/images-2.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/initial-heat-up-rates.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEQGRHw-eSp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-1698141032699159026</id><published>2013-04-10T10:00:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:18:45.251+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:18:45.251+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Tools" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Grinding and Polishing Glass" /><title>Grinder Bit Height</title><summary type="html">

If your grinder bit is too low or too
high the diamond surface will not grind the whole of the glass edge. 
This can lead to chipping of the surface of the glass at the edges.




Example of top of bit almost too low for the glass



A good practice is to start with the
bit as high as possible to allow for differing thicknesses of glass. 
As high as possible is with the bottom of the diamonds &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/XtQnkyVirGo" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/1698141032699159026/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/grinder-bit-height.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/1698141032699159026?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/1698141032699159026?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/XtQnkyVirGo/grinder-bit-height.html" title="Grinder Bit Height" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i91XrWE2oEA/UPHMSyid-BI/AAAAAAAAB0Q/ZMuV5dSXo0k/s72-c/images-2.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/grinder-bit-height.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEQERX04fyp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-2807117914899817993</id><published>2013-04-05T12:00:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:18:24.337+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:18:24.337+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Handling" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Storage" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><title>Mobile Glass Storage</title><summary type="html">

Sometimes
people consider placing their glass storage onto wheels.  It
is better to avoid wheels on glass storage for several reasons.



You
would need heavy duty wheels to cope with the weight. Glass is 2.5
times as heavy as water, so it does not take much volume to make a
really heavy glass case.




Example of mobile glass storage




You
do not need to move all your glass at once - a piece&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/4as9d4QvN_w" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/2807117914899817993/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/mobile-glass-storage.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2807117914899817993?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2807117914899817993?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/4as9d4QvN_w/mobile-glass-storage.html" title="Mobile Glass Storage" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0-6GKnBGlzo/UWB8go4INkI/AAAAAAAACDs/-7SyMrNo9lQ/s72-c/moboile-shelving.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.226372099999935</georss:point><georss:box>55.8634256 -4.228893599999935 55.8656536 -4.223850599999935</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/04/mobile-glass-storage.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEUDRHs8fSp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-4255252322205028709</id><published>2013-03-30T20:26:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:17:55.575+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:17:55.575+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Sandblastng" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Painting" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Paints and Enamels" /><title>Antiquing Sandblasted Glass</title><summary type="html">Sometimes a
sandblasted area appears too white when finished.  One method that
can be used to tone down the whiteness is to use low temperature
glass stainers' enamel.



The low
temperature enamels cure at temperatures between 530C and 580C
depending on the type and manufacturer.  At this temperature the
glass is unlikely to change its shape.  The jewellers and ceramics
enamels fire at higher &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/8RuIeRG5dFc" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/4255252322205028709/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/antiquing-sandblasted-glass.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4255252322205028709?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4255252322205028709?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/8RuIeRG5dFc/antiquing-sandblasted-glass.html" title="Antiquing Sandblasted Glass" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/antiquing-sandblasted-glass.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEUHRHk_eip7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-86642193328803065</id><published>2013-03-25T13:00:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:17:15.742+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:17:15.742+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Copper Foil Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Leaded Glass Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Curves" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Circles" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Supports" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><title>Assembly of Circles and Irregular Shapes.</title><summary type="html">

Leading



Circles
and ovals as well as irregular shapes significant support as leading
often involves sideways pressures to fit the lead to the pieces of
glass.  Thus there are two main methods of support for the perimeter
of the panel.



You
can cut supporting pieces of glass to place around the perimeter. 
These need to be cut to the outside of the perimeter cut line.  These
supports must &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/SeANhYbzPuE" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/86642193328803065/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/assembly-of-circles-and-irregular-shapes.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/86642193328803065?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/86642193328803065?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/SeANhYbzPuE/assembly-of-circles-and-irregular-shapes.html" title="Assembly of Circles and Irregular Shapes." /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/assembly-of-circles-and-irregular-shapes.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEUFR3k_eSp7ImA9WhBbE0U.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-3558638895719876885</id><published>2013-03-20T13:00:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-05-12T20:16:56.741+01:00</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-05-12T20:16:56.741+01:00</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Frit" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="kiln forming" /><title>Disguising Joints in Fusing</title><summary type="html">

You
can use powder or fine frit to conceal the joints in fusing.  This is
most easily done before the first firing.



Fine
frit can be made from the off cuts from your prepared glass, or you
can buy powder of the correct colour.  Where two colours meet use the
darker or denser colour of frit or powder over the joint.  Push the
frit into place with a brush or stick to form a regular edge.  You
&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/QYH1VYsSBGA" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/3558638895719876885/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/disguising-joints-in-fusing.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/3558638895719876885?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/3558638895719876885?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/QYH1VYsSBGA/disguising-joints-in-fusing.html" title="Disguising Joints in Fusing" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cNSiOlBTubU/UPH_7VzQ9PI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/4S5awqlumwQ/s72-c/images.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Stained Glass Supplies, 77 Hanson St, Glasgow, G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/disguising-joints-in-fusing.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CEMERHY7cCp7ImA9WhBQE0g.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-4435167560669724397</id><published>2013-03-15T13:00:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-15T13:00:05.808Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-15T13:00:05.808Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Kiln furniture" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Side firing" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="kiln preparation" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Kilns" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="kiln forming" /><title>Placement of Pieces for Firing</title><summary type="html">

Placing
pieces in the kiln, especially in oval and side fired kilns, is not
about filling the kiln completely.  Kilns have hot and cold spots,
and the arrangement of the elements can have an effect too.



The
first thing to determine with a new kiln - and immediately after any
alterations to the kiln - is where the hot and cool areas of the kiln
are.  There is an extensive guide to this on the&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/AooF7m7eIcU" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/4435167560669724397/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/placement-of-pieces-for-firing.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4435167560669724397?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4435167560669724397?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/AooF7m7eIcU/placement-of-pieces-for-firing.html" title="Placement of Pieces for Firing" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/placement-of-pieces-for-firing.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CkMEQ3Y7fSp7ImA9WhBRGU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-6595256228416429858</id><published>2013-03-10T13:00:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-10T13:00:02.805Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-10T13:00:02.805Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Dams" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Flip and Fire" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Materials" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="kiln forming" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glues" /><title>Glues in Kiln Forming</title><summary type="html">

Glues
have two major uses in fusing.  One is to stick things together after
being fused (cold fusing).  The other is to hold things together
before fusing.



Holding
things together while preparing the piece to be transferred to the
kiln is a major use of low tack adhesives and glues. All of these
burn off a lot lower than the temperature at which the glass begins
to stick together.  So, if &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/XUjSpjgHBsg" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/6595256228416429858/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/glues-in-kiln-forming.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/6595256228416429858?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/6595256228416429858?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/XUjSpjgHBsg/glues-in-kiln-forming.html" title="Glues in Kiln Forming" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-udysNsRmDWY/UPH5E2rjpsI/AAAAAAAAB3w/oA0H6Kju94I/s72-c/Unknown-1.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/glues-in-kiln-forming.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEQMQX0zeyp7ImA9WhBRFU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-9069016063297623391</id><published>2013-03-05T23:33:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-05T23:33:00.383Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-05T23:33:00.383Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Materials" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Inclusions" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Bones" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="kiln forming" /><title>Bones as Inclusions in Glass</title><summary type="html">



The
major components of bones are calcium and organic materials making up
the marrow.  If the bones are not old and weathered a very bad smell
will be produced.  The organic material will cause bubbles.  Finally,
it takes a long time to burn out the marrow, so it is best to use
bones that have weathered for a number of years.



Calcium
“erodes” during firing, so fine and thin bones will &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/V8d0onU4NO8" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/9069016063297623391/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/bones-as-inclusions-in-glass.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/9069016063297623391?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/9069016063297623391?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/V8d0onU4NO8/bones-as-inclusions-in-glass.html" title="Bones as Inclusions in Glass" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y94fjVl8-bQ/UPH3znIT_AI/AAAAAAAAB3U/vGaS9x6wqQQ/s72-c/images.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/03/bones-as-inclusions-in-glass.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUQAQ3s9cSp7ImA9WhBRE08.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-2150893318159748466</id><published>2013-02-25T23:25:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-03T16:15:42.569Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-03T16:15:42.569Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Copper Foil Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Sun Catchers" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Display" /><title>Hanging Sun Catchers</title><summary type="html">

Unless
you are using some manufactured system or a frame, the most frequent
way to provide hanging points is to create a loop from copper wire.

 
 
 
 











Hangers
should originate in a solder bead that goes some way into the piece. 
The loop's tail should lie a significant distance into the solder
line to ensure it does not pull the piece apart. If this is to remain
invisible, some &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/BtzupGClRGE" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/2150893318159748466/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/hanging-sun-catchers.html#comment-form" title="4 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2150893318159748466?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2150893318159748466?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/BtzupGClRGE/hanging-sun-catchers.html" title="Hanging Sun Catchers" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m2PrrxLkCRY/UPH1Gy7kYKI/AAAAAAAAB2g/zkdxZ6z6vHM/s72-c/Unknown.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>4</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/hanging-sun-catchers.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUIHR3Y4fyp7ImA9WhBRE08.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-8104741096831851956</id><published>2013-02-20T18:32:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-03T16:18:56.837Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-03T16:18:56.837Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Frit" /><title>Cleaning Magnets</title><summary type="html">

When
making frit in steel containers the metal fragments need to be
removed using magnets.  It can be very difficult to get the fragments
off the magnets.

 
 
 
 











A
solution has been suggested.  Put the magnet into a small plastic bag
before use.  After cleaning all the metal from the frit, take the bag
to the bin and remove it from the bag.  The metal fragments will drop
off into &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/7h3iJChuNs8" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/8104741096831851956/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/cleaning-magnets.html#comment-form" title="2 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8104741096831851956?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8104741096831851956?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/7h3iJChuNs8/cleaning-magnets.html" title="Cleaning Magnets" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><thr:total>2</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/cleaning-magnets.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;D0UCQXc9eyp7ImA9WhBTGUw.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-2234214315663590799</id><published>2013-02-15T08:01:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-02-15T08:01:00.963Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-02-15T08:01:00.963Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Thin glass" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Tack Fusing" /><title>Single Layer Firing</title><summary type="html">

Preparing
a Single Layer for Further Kiln Work



There can be
circumstances where you do want to fire a single layer in building up
your project.  This is more often difficult on rectangular than round
pieces.



Some of the
considerations are:

Temperature

Heat work

sizing

Cleaning after firing



Firing a 3 mm piece to
anything over a laminated tack fuse normally leads to the edges
&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/DtTOONZMc6U" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/2234214315663590799/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/single-layer-firing.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2234214315663590799?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2234214315663590799?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/DtTOONZMc6U/single-layer-firing.html" title="Single Layer Firing" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xz_y7Qs7QSU/UPHxmUJ3lEI/AAAAAAAAB2I/kinYYOx5LM4/s72-c/images.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/single-layer-firing.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;C08MQXo-eSp7ImA9WhBTFEU.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-9087595301731052981</id><published>2013-02-10T07:38:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-02-10T07:38:00.451Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-02-10T07:38:00.451Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Slumping" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Annealing" /><title>Slump Point Test</title><summary type="html">

A
slump point test is useful when you wish to determine the approximate
annealing point of an unknown glass.  The methodology follows:



Prepare
a strip of the glass 305mm x 25mm.  Suspend this strip above the
shelf on 25mm pieces of kiln furniture. Leave a 275mm span between
the kiln furniture.  A piece of kiln furniture also  needs to be
placed on top of the glass to keep it in place.




&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/MrYQQlZ8_F0" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/9087595301731052981/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/slump-point-test.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/9087595301731052981?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/9087595301731052981?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/MrYQQlZ8_F0/slump-point-test.html" title="Slump Point Test" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FGanzZ7ozeY/UPHwKAsX2UI/AAAAAAAAB14/8BtPly_jv6k/s72-c/images-2.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/slump-point-test.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUEERH08eyp7ImA9WhBRE08.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-4426737914985266197</id><published>2013-02-05T07:30:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-03T16:20:05.373Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-03T16:20:05.373Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Kilns" /><title>Ceramic vs. Glass Kilns</title><summary type="html">



 
 
 
 




The
purposes of these two types of kiln differ, so insulation properties
differ too.  Ceramic kilns have high density brick insulation to
retain the heat and slowly cool the contents from the top temperature
to avoid breakage.  Glass kilns have light weight insulation –
whether brick or fibre - to cool quickly from the top temperature to
avoid devitrification.










&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/V5otG22DwT4" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/4426737914985266197/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/ceramic-vs-glass-kilns.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4426737914985266197?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/4426737914985266197?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/V5otG22DwT4/ceramic-vs-glass-kilns.html" title="Ceramic vs. Glass Kilns" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5CveKXyxDjQ/UPHsiY3nkvI/AAAAAAAAB1A/h0oCWMxl2Mc/s72-c/images-2.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/02/ceramic-vs-glass-kilns.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;CEACRXs8fip7ImA9WhBRE04.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-7677869718327057562</id><published>2013-01-30T07:21:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-03T17:46:04.576Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-03T17:46:04.576Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Fused Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Separators" /><title>Removing Kiln Wash</title><summary type="html">Kiln
wash can get stuck on items for a variety of reasons. 



A
variety of ways to remove the kiln wash are:




Grind
the kiln wash off with diamond hand pads, or small rotary tool with
wet sandpaper.  You can then proceed to continue to grind with
successively fine grits until a polish is achieved, or you can fire
polish after a thorough cleaning.




Example of scrubbing kiln wash off






&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/HSnxXcCMmFw" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/7677869718327057562/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/removing-kiln-wash.html#comment-form" title="2 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/7677869718327057562?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/7677869718327057562?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/HSnxXcCMmFw/removing-kiln-wash.html" title="Removing Kiln Wash" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_skT9O0hsU/UPHPaR9ExyI/AAAAAAAAB0w/Wmyv-qkxQW0/s72-c/immigration+flame.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>2</thr:total><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/removing-kiln-wash.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DU8CQXo5cSp7ImA9WhNaEEQ.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-8439225851100935116</id><published>2013-01-25T07:11:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-01-25T07:11:00.429Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-01-25T07:11:00.429Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Tools" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Grinding and Polishing Glass" /><title>Grinder Chipping Glass</title><summary type="html">

There
are a number of reasons that may cause the grinder to chip the glass
surface.  Some of the things to check are:



Too
much pressure 


It
may be that you are pressing the glass into the grinder head too
hard.  The grinder head should do the work.  Firm rather than hard
pressure should be applied.  If the grinder slows, it is an
indication that far too much pressure is being applied.



&lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/YYio_sSUWGw" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/8439225851100935116/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/grinder-chipping-glass.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8439225851100935116?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/8439225851100935116?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/YYio_sSUWGw/grinder-chipping-glass.html" title="Grinder Chipping Glass" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wjddpnNAuTA/UPHLxAE_XZI/AAAAAAAAB0I/d1T4VIwIauE/s72-c/images-1.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/grinder-chipping-glass.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DEUNQn08cSp7ImA9WhNbGU8.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-3660162663238418654</id><published>2013-01-20T06:57:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-01-23T07:31:33.379Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-01-23T07:31:33.379Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Tools" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Cutting Tips" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Thick Glass" /><title>Cutting thick glass</title><summary type="html">Use
the correct angle of cutter wheel for the thickness. 



Use a
similar pressure to cutting 3 or 6 mm glass.  It is natural to think
that as the glass is thicker, you need to use more pressure.  The
different angle of the cutter wheel is designed to transfer the standard
pressure more directly downward.



Use
cut runners made for thick glass to help break the glass.  Run score
from both ends &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/q8oLDtac9no" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/3660162663238418654/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/cutting-thick-glass.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/3660162663238418654?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/3660162663238418654?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/q8oLDtac9no/cutting-thick-glass.html" title="Cutting thick glass" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ke7bSZLZGTg/UPHKOiT9fEI/AAAAAAAABz4/Qu2VJY0C45I/s72-c/images.jpeg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/cutting-thick-glass.html</feedburner:origLink></entry><entry gd:etag="W/&quot;DUAARngzcSp7ImA9WhBRE08.&quot;"><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6535889439070244325.post-2359972386316471605</id><published>2013-01-15T06:51:00.000Z</published><updated>2013-03-03T16:22:27.689Z</updated><app:edited xmlns:app="http://www.w3.org/2007/app">2013-03-03T16:22:27.689Z</app:edited><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Verrier" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Glass Painting" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass Supplies Ltd" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Stained Glass in Glasgow" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Paints and Enamels" /><category scheme="http://www.blogger.com/atom/ns#" term="Air brushing" /><title>Air Brushing on Glass</title><summary type="html">

Raphael Schnepf Workshop



Air
brushing onto glass is a little different than onto other slightly
absorbent surfaces.  As glass cannot absorb the moisture from the
material being sprayed, the medium needs to be allowed evaporate. 
This means that each layer of paint must be allowed to dry before the
next layer is applied.  If too much liquid is applied to the glass,
it will bead up giving a &lt;img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~4/Yp42ZdHM0gg" height="1" width="1"/&gt;</summary><link rel="replies" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/feeds/2359972386316471605/comments/default" title="Post Comments" /><link rel="replies" type="text/html" href="http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/air-brushing-on-glass.html#comment-form" title="0 Comments" /><link rel="edit" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2359972386316471605?v=2" /><link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6535889439070244325/posts/default/2359972386316471605?v=2" /><link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/GOoLX/~3/Yp42ZdHM0gg/air-brushing-on-glass.html" title="Air Brushing on Glass" /><author><name>Stephen Richard</name><uri>https://plus.google.com/112778184314586915986</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel="http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail" width="32" height="32" src="//lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XsTKEdoRgoc/AAAAAAAAAAI/AAAAAAAABzg/Zxz7AXvuJsU/s512-c/photo.jpg" /></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media="http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/" url="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iLJ9dBvaNtI/UPHI2L9iZVI/AAAAAAAABzo/lMxHCt4OMxs/s72-c/pat-rafs.jpg" height="72" width="72" /><thr:total>0</thr:total><georss:featurename>Glasgow, Glasgow City G31 2HF, UK</georss:featurename><georss:point>55.8645396 -4.2263721</georss:point><georss:box>55.862312100000004 -4.2313076 55.8667671 -4.2214366</georss:box><gd:extendedProperty name="commentSource" value="1" /><gd:extendedProperty name="commentModerationMode" value="FILTERED_POSTMOD" /><feedburner:origLink>http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2013/01/air-brushing-on-glass.html</feedburner:origLink></entry></feed>
