Wildflower Run Blog

What is a Che Tree or a Mandarin Melon Berry?

2025-03-31T10:06:00.002-04:00

I learned about the Che Tree or Mandarin Melon Berry (Maclura tricuspidata) several years ago and was able to purchase my own plant to grow in my yard. The nursery where I purchased mine had grafted the tree onto the roots of the Osage Orange tree rootstock to prevent it from growing invasively from roots. We have lots of Osage Orange trees that grow freely around our property in Maryland and I have a female tree that produces fruit without seeds.

When I read that the Mandarin Melon Berry tree roots easily from cuttings, I thought I would add the interesting fruit to my listings of cuttings that I like to sell on Etsy

After almost three years, my plant grew into a nice tree with beautiful leaves and last year bore lots of bright red berries a little over an inch in size. We learned to wait until they were almost ready to fall off the branch before picking them to enjoy them at their sweetest.

Ever heard of a Che tree? If not, you're not alone! This intriguing plant often flies under the radar, but it's a unique and rewarding addition to the adventurous gardener's collection.

What Exactly Is a Che Tree?

Scientific Name: Cudrania tricuspidata (sometimes classified as Maclura tricuspidata).
Common Names: Che, Chinese Mulberry, Cudrang, Silkworm Thorn, Mandarin Melon Berry.
Family: Moraceae – the same family as Mulberries, Figs, and Osage Orange (to which it's closely related).
Origin: Native to East Asia (China, Korea, Japan).
Appearance: It's typically a small deciduous tree or large shrub, growing anywhere from 10 to 30 feet tall. It has a somewhat rounded, spreading habit. Watch out – most varieties have thorns, especially when young! The leaves are variable; sometimes simple ovals, sometimes distinctively lobed (often 3-lobed, hence tricuspidata) especially on vigorous young growth. Like its relatives, it exudes a milky sap when cut.
The Fruit: This is where it gets interesting! Che fruit looks like a bumpy, red, raspberry-mulberry hybrid, about 1-2 inches in diameter. The texture is chewy and slightly gelatinous, and the flavor is... well, debated! It's generally described as mildly sweet, sometimes reminiscent of fig, melon, or a sweet, watery mulberry. Flavor intensity can vary greatly depending on the variety, ripeness, and growing conditions. Some find it delicious and refreshing, others find it a bit bland. They ripen late in the season, typically late summer into fall.
Male & Female Trees: Important point! Che trees are usually dioecious, meaning individual trees are either male or female. You generally need both a male and a female tree for the female tree to produce seeded (and often larger, better-flavored) fruit through pollination. However, female trees can sometimes produce seedless fruit (parthenocarpy) without a male nearby, but this isn't always reliable or might result in smaller fruit. Some sources mention self-fertile varieties, but these seem less common.
Growing Conditions: Che is pretty adaptable! It prefers full sun for best fruiting, tolerates a range of soils (though well-drained is best), and is quite drought-tolerant once established. It's generally hardy in USDA zones 5-9, possibly colder with some protection.

Why Grow Che?

It's unusual and a great conversation starter.
The fruit is unique, even if an acquired taste for some.
It's relatively low-maintenance and pest/disease resistant.
It's related to mulberries and figs, making it interesting for fruit enthusiasts.
Birds often enjoy the fruit (which can be good or bad, depending on your perspective!).

How to Root Che Tree Cuttings

Propagating Che from cuttings allows you to clone a specific tree (especially useful if you have a female tree you like or a known self-fertile variety). Be warned: Che isn't the easiest plant to root from cuttings compared to things like willow or mint, but it's definitely possible with patience! Hardwood or semi-hardwood cuttings tend to have better success rates than softwood.

Best Time to Take Cuttings:

Hardwood Cuttings: Late fall or winter, during the dormant season after leaves have dropped.
Semi-Hardwood Cuttings: Late summer or early fall, when the current season's growth has started to mature and firm up but isn't fully woody.

What You'll Need:

Healthy Parent Tree: Source of your cuttings.
Sharp, Clean Pruners or Knife: Sterilize with rubbing alcohol or bleach solution between cuts.
Rooting Hormone: Powder, liquid, or gel (IBA or NAA). This significantly increases success rates for woody cuttings like Che.
Rooting Medium: A well-draining mix. Options include:

Sharp sand
Perlite
Vermiculite
A mix of peat moss/coir and perlite/sand (e.g., 50/50)

Pots or Trays: With drainage holes. Small individual pots or a larger tray work.
Plastic Bag or Humidity Dome: To maintain high humidity around the cuttings.
Labels: To keep track of what you're rooting and when.
Watering Can/Spray Bottle: For keeping the medium moist.
(Optional but Recommended) Heat Mat: Bottom heat encourages root development, especially for hardwood cuttings.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Select Your Cuttings: Choose healthy, vigorous stems from the current or last season's growth. Aim for pencil thickness (around 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter).
Take the Cuttings: Cut segments about 6-10 inches long. Make the bottom cut just below a node (a bump where a leaf was or a bud is present). Make the top cut just above a node. If taking semi-hardwood cuttings, remove the lower leaves, leaving only 2-3 leaves at the top (you can cut large leaves in half horizontally to reduce water loss). For hardwood cuttings, there won't be any leaves.
Wound the Base (Optional but Recommended): Gently scrape off a thin vertical sliver of bark (about 1 inch long) on one or two sides of the bottom end of the cutting. This exposes more cambium layer, potentially encouraging rooting.
Apply Rooting Hormone: Moisten the bottom inch or so of the cutting, then dip it into the rooting hormone powder or gel, ensuring the cut end and any wounded area are coated. Tap off any excess powder.
Plant the Cuttings: Fill your pots/tray with the pre-moistened rooting medium. Use a dibber or pencil to make holes in the medium to avoid scraping off the hormone. Insert the cuttings into the holes, burying at least 2-3 nodes deep. Gently firm the medium around the cuttings.
Water Gently: Water the medium again lightly to settle it around the cuttings. Ensure it's moist but not waterlogged.
Provide Humidity: Cover the pot/tray with a clear plastic bag (use stakes to keep it off the leaves) or place it under a humidity dome. This prevents the cuttings from drying out before they can grow roots.
Place in a Suitable Location:

Light: Bright, indirect light (avoid direct sun, which can cook them).
Temperature: Warmth is key. Room temperature (65-75°F / 18-24°C) is okay, but bottom heat from a heat mat set to around 70-75°F (21-24°C) significantly boosts success, especially for hardwood cuttings.

Care and Patience:

Moisture: Keep the rooting medium consistently moist but never soggy (this encourages rot). Check regularly.
Ventilation: Open the bag or dome for 10-15 minutes every few days to allow air circulation and prevent fungal issues.
Patience: Rooting Che can take time – anywhere from several weeks to several months. Don't give up too soon! Hardwood cuttings taken in winter might not show significant root growth until spring.

Check for Roots: After 6-8 weeks (or longer), you can start checking for roots. Don't pull the cuttings out frequently, as this disturbs developing roots. Instead:

Look for new leaf growth (a good sign, but not definitive proof of roots).
Give a very gentle tug. If you feel resistance, roots are likely forming.
Check for roots emerging from the drainage holes.

Potting Up: Once cuttings have a decent root system (visible roots, resistance to tugging), carefully transplant them into individual pots with standard potting soil.
Acclimatize: Gradually reduce the humidity over a week or two by opening the bag/dome for longer periods before removing it completely. Keep the newly potted plants in indirect light initially, slowly introducing them to more sun.

Tips for Success:

Start with Multiple Cuttings: Che rooting can be hit-or-miss. Increase your chances by starting with more cuttings than you need.
Use Bottom Heat: Especially crucial for hardwood cuttings in cooler temperatures.
Be Patient: This is often the hardest part!
Maintain High Humidity: Essential until roots form.
Ensure Good Drainage: Soggy medium is the enemy.

Good luck with your Che tree adventures! It's a rewarding plant to grow and propagate, even if it requires a little extra effort. Happy gardening!

Growing a Gingko Tree from Seed and Beyond

2024-06-17T15:41:00.031-04:00

Have you ever been driving through a neighborhood and noticed a stunningly brilliant yellow tree with distinctive fan-shaped leaves? Or maybe you have heard of taking gingko biloba supplements for helping various ailments. Well that is what happened to me and so I started looking into what kind of a tree it was and if I could plant it on our property. But that was years ago and I never acted on getting seedlings or seeds until the fall of 2023.

I was taking a walk in a neighboring town and noticed a small fruit on the ground along the curb of a street. Since the size and shape reminded me of a small apricot I was curious what it might be but before I could touch it, the rank smell reminded me of my previous research on the Gingko tree and that the seeds should not be touched with bare hands. I picked it up with a napkin and looked around for the mother tree. Sure enough, about 20 feet away was a female Gingko tree covered in the orange fruit and plenty of droppings for me to grab.

How You Can Grow a Gingko Tree from seed.

-Harvest ripe dropped seeds in the early fall.

-Place them in a clean bucket and covered them with water for around three weeks. Keep them away from your house as the smell is horrendous

-Drain the seeds and put on rubber gloves. Separate the fleshy covering from the seed underneath and then rinse with fresh water.

-Place the seeds in a damp paper towel or cloth and then in a plastic bag or container. Keep them in a dark cool (40-55 degrees F) place for the next 6 months. Check every few weeks to make sure the towel or cloth is still damp, but not wet.

-Remove the sprouted seeds in the spring and plant in a gallon pot filled with regular potting soil, being careful not to damage the small root. Set them in a sheltered place outside and water as needed to keep the soil damp.

-Once the seedling is about 8-12 inches tall in the summer, you can transplant the young tree to a permanent spot where it can grow at least 20 feet from any other trees or shrubs.

1. Choose the Right Planting Location:

Sunlight: Ginkgo trees thrive in full sun, needing at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. They can also tolerate partial shade, but full sun is best for optimal growth and fall color.
Soil:

Ginkgos prefer well-drained soil and are not particular about soil type. They can tolerate a variety of soils including loamy, sandy, and even clay.
Ensure the soil has good drainage to avoid waterlogging, which can be harmful to ginkgos.
They can grow in a wide range of soil pH levels, from acidic to alkaline.

Spacing:

Ginkgo trees can grow quite large, so ensure adequate space for their mature size. A mature ginkgo can reach 50-80 feet tall and 30-40 feet wide.
Space ginkgos 30-40 feet apart if planting multiple trees.

Consider the mature size and potential impact on surrounding areas:

The height and width of the tree at maturity and its possible effects on nearby structures or other plants should be taken into account.

2. Planting Time:

Spring or Fall: The best time to plant ginkgos is during the spring or fall when the weather is mild.
Avoid Planting in Extreme Weather: Avoid planting during the heat of summer or when the ground is frozen in winter.

3. Planting Procedure:

Dig the Hole:

Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball of the ginkgo sapling.
The depth of the hole should be the same as the root ball, no deeper.

Prepare the Soil:

Loosen the soil at the sides of the hole to encourage root growth.
Consider amending the soil with organic matter, such as compost, to enrich the soil and improve drainage.

Planting:

Carefully remove the tree from its container. Gently loosen any circling roots.
Place the tree in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil.
Backfill with soil and tamp lightly to eliminate air pockets.

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.

4. Initial Care After Planting:

Watering: Water the young tree regularly, especially during dry periods.
Staking: If the tree is young and unstable, stake it to provide support while it establishes its roots.

If you don't have access to a neighborhood tree for the seeds, I do have several seedlings for sale on my page on Etsy here: Gingko biloba seedlings.

How to Root Red Mulberry Tree Cuttings

2024-03-04T12:11:00.004-05:00

Sidewalk covered in Mulberries

One of the fun and nostalgic rites of summer is the arrival of the ripe red mulberries as they first show up dropping their fruit onto the sidewalks and driveways of our town. I am sure they are dropping their fruit onto the lawns and fields, but you never notice them until suddenly you are walking over them and you look up to see the dark fruit hanging in masses above your head. Unlike a lot of other dark berries, mulberries won't stain your fingers, so you don't have to be so careful as you stuff handfuls into your mouth.

You might assume that the common mulberries growing along the eastern United States are black mulberries since the berries go from white to red to black when they ripen. However the black mulberry (Morus nigra) is a different cultivar native to Southwest Asia. I am speaking of the Morus Rubra, a North America native mulberry that grows along the East Coast from USDA growing zone 3 through 8. We have several trees that grow on our property and harvesting cuttings is a fun way to propagate the trees. Many times, I will forget to label the pots and as they go dormant in winter, I can always tell it's a mulberry by the tree's orange roots. This tree likes to grow in floodplains and spreads its roots in a large network within the top 24 inches of soil, collecting nutrients and moisture and at the same time making it a very sturdy tree.

Here is how I like to root my red mulberry cuttings:

Take cuttings from the newest growth that is almost as thick as a pencil. Immediately after cutting, place the bottom into a container of water so that there is no chance of the cut drying out. I use an angled cut on the bottom about a 1/4-inch below a node and a straight cut across the top of a 6 to 8 inch section, also about 1/4-inch above a node. Take several cuttings at a time to increase your chances of success.

Prepare a rooting container by filling it with 4 - 6 inches of a dampened mixture of vermiculite and coconut coir or something similar with good drainage. Poke holes with a pencil sized instrument.

Dip your cutting into a rooting hormone (optional) and then into the prepared holes. Keep at least one node above the soil line. Press the soil firmly around each cutting making sure the bark has good contact.

Cover the cuttings with a cloche or translucent bag to keep the humidity levels high around the cuttings. Open the covering every 7 to 14 days to freshen the air and prevent mold and fungal growth.

Place the covered cuttings in a shady but warm (65 to 75 F) place for 6 to 8 weeks or until you see signs of growth. Make sure the soil never dries out or you will most likely have dead cuttings as the fragile new roots dry out very easily.

When leaves appear, remove the coverings and mist lightly every few days and check for root growth. I like to use translucent containers so I can see the roots as they develop.

Transfer into individual containers filled with potting soil when you see roots and continue to moisten every few days until you see vigorous growth.

Your new red mulberry tree is now ready to be planted in a sunny spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day. Continue to water for the first year when you notice the soil is dry. I do not fertilize young trees as I want to encourage root growth to find its own nutrients and water away from the planting site.

If you don't have access to a mulberry tree for cuttings, you can always check here:

https://wildflowerrun.etsy.com/listing/1218131545.

Rooting Green Gooseberry Bushes from Hardwood Cuttings

2024-01-08T10:39:00.005-05:00

Green gooseberries are a common type of berry from the large family of Ribes. My first encounter with them was when I was a child in Washington state visiting a friend of the family. He had long rows of gooseberry plants along with blackberries and raspberries growing in his backyard. The gooseberries were so beautiful in the sunlight as the light passed through their translucent skin. I must have happened to visit just as they were ripe as I remember the flavor to be be tart but sweet. Years later, one of my daughters bought me my own gooseberry plant. Since I live in the hot and humid climate of the Eastern Seaboard of the United States, growing the gooseberries was a little harder. However, I have found a spot where it receives about 6 hours of sunlight per day and some shade during the hot afternoon hours.

Now, since I know that I can root my red currant bushes pretty simply, I found with a little research that gooseberry bushes are also easy to propagate with cuttings.

Gooseberry Bush

First you are going to need a plant pot filled with equal parts of dampened coconut coir and vermiculite or something similar. Press the mixture firmly into the pot with the heel of your palm. Poke a hole into the firmed mixture with a wooden dowel or pencil or screwdriver. The depth of the hole should be enough to leave just one leaf node showing after planting.

Now take your cutting and inspect it after rinsing it. The bottom angled cut should be green and not dried out. Scrape a little section of bark from about an inch or two from the bottom on one side of the cutting. Dip the cutting immediately into some rooting hormone and then into the prepared pot. Repeat for other cuttings. An 8-inch pot can hold 6-8 cuttings. Press the soil firmly around the cuttings to make sure the cutting has good contact with the damp rooting mixture. Water lightly.

Place a cover like a plastic bag or a glass jar or cloche over the cuttings to hold moisture around the stems.

Fancy Plant Cloche

And now comes the hard part - waiting. You will feel like an eternity has passed before you see a little root coming out from the bottom of the pot. Make sure that you check the cutting at least once a week to open the cover and let fresh air in. You can also check the moisture of the soil and add a little water if you think it feels dry.

I keep my cuttings out of direct sunlight in a unheated greenhouse over the winter.

Expect the gooseberry bush cuttings to take 3-4 months to root.

Once you see the roots emerging from the bottom of the plant pot, carefully repot each rooted cutting into its own pot and water. Keep the cutting covered until you see leaves forming. Once the rooted cutting has formed leaves, you can move it outside to a permanent setting either in a large pot or in the ground.

Plant outside in permanent position

That is how you grow green gooseberries from cuttings. Once your bush has grown over a couple of years, you can repeat the process and multiply your harvest simply with cuttings.

You can make a tart gooseberry jam with any berries left over from eating fresh. I like combining raspberries with gooseberries to make a beautiful and tasty jam.

Gooseberry jam

If you need to find a source for fresh cuttings, you can check out my Etsy shop, here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/wildflowerrun, or scan here:

WildflowerRun

How to Root Hydrangea Cuttings

2022-03-30T15:23:00.001-04:00

Have you every seen a beautiful hydrangea in bloom at a friend's house and wished you had one in your yard? You could probably ask for a cutting of one of the branches if you dared, and try rooting your own plant that would be an exact replicate.

The Hydrangea, is a common flowering shrub found often beside older homes on the East Coast. It is also known as hortensia, but it is actually a genus of over 75 species of flowering plants native to Asia and the Americas. The most commonly planted hydrangea is the Bigleaf Hydrangea, (Hydrangea macrophylla) with large blue to pink flowerheads, depending on the acidity of the soil which affects the availability of aluminum to the flower. In the wild, the typical flower color is white and with much smaller flowerheads.

The hydrangea is one of the plants that take very well to rooting from cuttings whether you take cuttings in the summer or in the late fall while the plant is dormant. Look for healthy plants and branches that look strong and without any bug damage or disease. The best cuttings are from the current year's growth.

Here is a simple method of rooting:

1. Take 6-inch sections with two growth nodes. I like to make an angled cut just below a node and then a straight cut just above a node. If you are taking actively growing cuttings, remove the bottom leaves and cut the top leaves in half to reduce water evaporation.

2. Set the cutting into a container of room temperature water to make sure the cutting does not have a chance to dry out while you are getting ready to work with them.

3. Fill a 6-inch pot with a potting mix. I like to use a 50:50 mix of vermiculite and coconut fiber but there are many others that would work as well. You want a soil that will allow free drainage of the water and yet holding enough moisture next to the cutting to encourage rooting.

4. Water the pot until you see the water draining from the bottom.

5. Poke holes in the damp soil with a stick or pencil about the same diameter as the cuttings and about 3 inches deep.

6. Dip the cuttings into rooting hormone if you have it. This is an optional step as the hydrangea will likely root without it, but the rooting hormone increases your odds of success.

7. Set the cutting into the prepared holes and press the soil mixture firmly around the base of the cutting.

8. Cover the container with something clear to allow light to pass through but hold moisture, unless you live in a humid area.

9. Set the hydrangea cuttings in a bright (but not direct sunlight) and warm area (no more than 70-75 degrees F) for 4 to 6 weeks. Lift the cover (if used) every day to refresh the air.

10. Remove the cover when you see signs of growth and be careful not to let the soil dry out.

11. Transplant the cuttings when you see they are actively growing into individual containers filled with regular potting soil and water well until you are ready to plant them outdoors for the summer.

That's it. Not a hard process at all. Once the cutting takes root, the plant will grow quickly - even 24 to 36 inches in its first year. Why not give it a try and grow your own hydrangea or maybe a whole collection of hydrangeas!

If you don't have access to a shrub from which to take cuttings, you can purchase them from my Etsy page here, Wildflower Run as I do offer them when available from my bushes.

How to Propagate Kieffer Pear Trees from Cuttings

2022-03-16T13:34:00.001-04:00

Kieffer Pears

The Kieffer pear is a tree that was gifted to me several years ago. I have very little to do to keep the tree looking good and producing fruit beyond giving it a yearly pruning in the winter. Only recently did I find that you can propagate the cuttings from a Kieffer Pear. Now granted, they are not nearly as easy as a willow cutting which just seems to want to root as soon as you try, but with some trial and error, the Kieffer pear cuttings will root over time.

The Kieffer pear is a hybrid between a European pear and a Chinese Sand pear with large crisp yellow fruit. I have to pay close attention or the squirrels will eat them just as they are about to ripen. I pick them while they are still firm and let them ripen inside safe from the wild harvesters.

Pear trees generally need between 200 and 800 chill hours of temperatures between 45 and 32 degrees to produce fruit. The Kieffer Pear needs about 400 chill hours and tolerates hot weather.

Since the Kieffer Pear is a hybrid, you can only use asexual propagation to reproduce the same plant.

Kieffer Pear Blossoms

According to my research, the best way to propagate Kieffer Pear tree cuttings is the following:

Prepare a 50:50 mixture of dampened vermiculite and coconut coir
Fill a plant pot with at least 4 inches of the mixture
Take either dormant or softwood cuttings and make sure the bottom angled cut is fresh and not dried out
Dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone
Place the treated cutting in a prepared hole that is about 4 inches deep so that only one growth node is above the soil line
Press the planting mixture firmly around the cutting
Cover the container with clear film or a cover to allow light in but to also provide a humid environment for the cutting
Place the cuttings under grow lights for 12 hours a day at about 72 degrees (F)
Watch the cuttings for the next couple of months, lifting the cover every week or so to refresh the air and to make sure the soil stays moist.
Once you see signs of root growth, transplant to a larger pot with regular potting soil and continue to water and make sure it gets 12 hours of sunlight a day.
In the fall, allow the new plant to hibernate over the winter outside either in a pot or in a protected spot in your garden.
Keep the soil moist for a least the first year after planting.

So why not give this method a try and see if you can't produce a new tree for your food forest or backyard garden. If you don't have access to a Kieffer Pear tree, I do sell them for a few weeks of the year on Etsy here, Wildflower Run

How to Root Cherry Tree Cuttings (And Other Stone Fruits)

2022-01-19T14:57:00.007-05:00

How many times have you seen an old cherry tree and wished you could have such a tree in your own yard. Just imagine going out in the summer and picking your own fresh cherries. Well you can! Ask the owner of the tree if you can take a few cuttings for yourself. Most of the time, the tree needs to be pruned in the winter while the tree is dormant to be ready for spring growth. Those cuttings normally just get tossed away as compost.

Look for pencil-sized thickness in cuttings about 6 to 8 inches long with several nodes.
Try to get the tops of the shoots from last year's growth
Make sure to remove any flower buds as you want roots first
Look for green under the bark to make sure you have a viable cutting

Rooting Method

Place the cuttings into a container of room temperature water as soon after you cut them from the tree as possible. You don't want the cut ends to dry out or you will have to recut them. I like to cut them so that the top has a straight perpendicular cut while the bottom has an angled cut.
Prepare a 6-inch deep rooting container by filling it with a 50:50 mixture of vermiculite and coconut coir that has been well moistened but is not wet. Press the mixture into the container and then use a stick or pencil the same size as the cuttings to poke holes at least two inches apart.
Dip the bottom end of your cutting into rooting hormone, tap off the excess
Place the treated cutting into the prepared hole. Repeat for as many cuttings as you have.
Press the soil mixture firmly around the cuttings so that there are no gaps.
Cover the whole container with a lid or some sort of covering to keep the moisture from evaporating.
Set the container on a heated mat or in a heated greenhouse of about 75 degrees F.
Watch the cuttings for the next 6 to 8 weeks and remove the cover several times during the week to allow for fresh air and mist if necessary.
Transplant carefully to a plant pot filled with regular potting soil when you see signs of rooting.
Keep the newly grown cherry tree in the warm and bright conditions until the outside soil is 60 degrees and you can plant directly into the ground.

Note: Cherry cuttings are more difficult to root than other plants, but you can expect 50% success with this method.

If you don't have access to a cherry tree for cuttings, you can order them from Etsy where I sell some from my trees here, Wildflower Run

How to Root Muscadine Grape Vine Cuttings

2022-01-10T11:05:00.005-05:00

Beautiful Muscadine Grapes

I have been growing grapes for almost fifteen years from cuttings I found while walking through my neighborhood. There was an old dilapidated house that was slowly sinking into the creek, but this house had a short fence with grape vines rambling over and around the old metal bars. One day in late October, as I walked my normal route, I realized that a neighbor had done a lot of pruning to the old vine and left the cuttings to dry up and rot away. Somewhere in the back of my brain, I remembered that grape vines could be encouraged to root and then sprout back into life. I took my treasure home and found a spot in my yard to "plant" them in a trench about 6 inches deep. From the fruit I had seen during the summer, I thought they were Concord grapes, and figured they couldn't be that hard to grow.

Well, here it is now over a decade later and every year we get a nice harvest from the nine vines that grew from those cuttings. Almost nothing bothers the vines or the fruit except for a few rascally beavers that every few years will come along and bite through the nice thick base of the vine only to find that nothing falls down and he resorts to eating the lower portion of the vine down to the ground. As aggravating as it is, I know I can take cuttings from the leftover suspended vines on the trellis and that the roots will push out a new vine in the spring.

Inside the Muscadine grape vines

My muscadine grape vines were a little more pampered. I bought them as rooted plants from a fancy nursery store and then planted them at the end of my yard. They were slow to get started but mostly because the soil was really poor and although I added a few inches of mulch over their base, the root zone was compacted.

They now grow a mile a minute during the growing season. Their black fruits are somewhat similar to a Concord grape in that they have a tougher outer skin that is quite tart. but the inside is very sweet.

Muscadine Grape Vine Cuttings

So just how do I root the cuttings from my muscadine vines? (Note that these are non-patented vines) Well, I have two methods:

Fall and winter planting of dormant vine cuttings:

Note: I think (but I have not found sound research to prove this) the muscadine vines need a cold stratification time after they lose their leaves in the fall so if you are collecting cuttings in the early fall months, I recommend at least 48 hours in the freezer before taking the following steps. Otherwise, cuttings collected in the winter have already gone through natural stratification and are ready to start rooting

prepare a rooting soil mixture of 50:50 vermiculite and sand or something similar
poke holes in the soil mixture about the depth of two thirds of the length of the cuttings
soak the cuttings in hot water (around 120 degrees F) for about 10 minutes
remove them from the water, blot off excess moisture and dip in rooting hormone
place the hormone covered end into the prepared holes
press the soil mixture firmly around the base of the cutting
cover the rooting container loosely to hold in moisture.
place the container on a heat mat held at about 80 degrees F. in a shaded area
watch the cuttings for about 5-8 weeks making sure to keep the soil damp but not wet
once you see a callus form around the base of the cuttings, transplant the cutting into another container with regular potting soil and keep moist and still on the warming mat
check the cuttings carefully over the next couple of weeks to watch for the buds to swell. When you see signs of life, move them off the warming mat and under lights to encourage upper growth.

Basically, you now have a tender young grapevine. You can start to harden it off by bringing it outside for a few hours at a time - if the ground is 60 degrees F or warmer. Don't try to plant it outdoors in the late fall or the cold stress might kill it.

Summer Rooting:

This is a much easier time to encourage muscadine grape vine cuttings to root.

take a basal cutting of the current year's growth that is a little thinner than a pencil.
remove all the leaves except for the top leaf and cut that in half.
prepare your dampened rooting mixture of 50:50 vermiculite and coconut coir
poke holes in the soil mixture about the depth of two thirds of the length of the cuttings
dip the end of your cutting in rooting hormone
place the angled end into the prepared holes and press the soil mixture firmly around the base of the cutting
cover the rooting container loosely to hold in moisture.
set aside in a warm and shaded area for 6 to 8 weeks. You should see plenty of root and maybe leaf growth by the end of this time.
remove the covering when you see leaves budding out and keep the soil damp
plant into regular potting/garden soil after the leaves open

If you don't have access to a muscadine grape vine, I do sell cuttings from my plants during the year on Etsy here, WildflowerRun.

How to Root Hardy Kiwi (Actinidia arguta) Cuttings

2022-01-05T11:32:00.007-05:00

I think there are lots of people that are like myself that want to start their own plants from a cutting. There is something intriguing about taking a dormant stick and watching life spring from under the seemingly dead bark. On the same hand, I have found such disappointment from watching a potentially alive stick do nothing more than rot away gradually before my eyes. Slowly, I am learning how to perfect the rooting process for better success rates.

Although the hardy kiwi is becoming more popular in nurseries, I think the vine is still a newcomer to most gardens, at least in the Mid Atlantic states around me.

The vines take several years to fruit - mine took almost ten years before we actually saw fruit, but a couple of those years, we saw early blossoms only to have a late frost that killed off any coming fruit, so we might have had fruit earlier.

One of the coolest things about rooting a cutting is that the plant takes on the age of the mother plant, so even though you might start rooting some cuttings, you won't have to wait seven to ten years to get fruit, rather two or three years or just until the plant is established enough to bear fruit.

Why would you want to grow hardy kiwis?

they are delicious right off the vine - no peeling required
the plants are pest proof
the vine is a beautiful landscape plant
the hardy kiwi vine grows fast!
the hardy kiwi is still a unique plant
the kiwi berries are very nutritious and rarely found in grocery stores
the plant is very hardy and takes abuse

So just how do you root hardy kiwi cuttings?

Prepare a 50:50 mix of vermiculite and sand and dampen with water
Fill plant pots or a deep tray with at least 6 inches of the prepared rooting mixture and press to flatten (I like translucent containers so I can see the root growth)
Use the end of a pencil to poke holes about an inch shorter than the cutting
Dip the freshly cut end of the cutting in rooting hormone
Place the cutting in the hole
Press the soil mixture firmly around each of the cuttings
Cover the container to hold in moisture
Place in a shaded area that stays warm (68-75 degrees F)
Check the cuttings every week and mist if the soil mixture seems dry to the touch
Wait and wait and wait some more.

Cuttings take time to root and hardy kiwis take at least two months if not longer. However, once you notice that the roots are started, the wait is forgotten and the excitement of a new plant takes over.

You can plant the cutting in a prepared garden bed or a plant pot. Think of growing hardy kiwis as you would a grape vine, but a grape vine on steriods.

You will need -

a spot with full sun (8+ hours a day)
soil with good organic matter and freely draining
a strong six-eight foot trellis that will hold the vines off the ground.

If you are interested in starting your own cuttings and don't have a local source, you can check out my Etsy page here: Kiwi Berry Cuttings

References:

http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.1039.2464&rep=rep1&type=pdf,

https://ssl.acesag.auburn.edu/department/peaches/kiwiprop.html

Planting Jerusalem Artichokes (Sunchokes)

2022-01-03T16:12:00.005-05:00

I had my first taste of sunchokes as a child living in California - a long time ago, Since then, I didn't see sunchokes or Jerusalem artichokes as I knew them, until a couple of years ago when we were shopping in a large Korean grocery market. I looked at my husband, Eric and excitedly showed him the package of three or four tubers on a Styrofoam tray wrapped in cellophane, fully expecting him to reciprocate my enthusiasm but instantly seeing his doubt. After I briefly explained my experience, he agreed that we should at least try them, so we brought them home.

That was the beginning of the explosion of sunchokes all over our property! I planted the three or four tubers along our driveway envisioning three or four flower plants gracing our yard with tubers for harvesting in the fall. Instead what happened was that I almost forgot about them as our yard became a massive construction site as we lifted our home 8 feet higher for flood protection.

The following spring, I noticed new little plants springing up where I planted them but also several on the other side of the driveway. I let them grow and enjoyed the tall plants and bright yellow flowers after the fall equinox. When the frost killed them back to the ground, I pulled up some of the dried stems and found several tubers under each plant, which I was thrilled to try my hand at cooking. We tried roasting them simply in the oven, boiling them with mashed potatoes, adding them to soups, and really enjoyed our new crop - although they never seemed as good as when I was a child eating them for the first time.

A year later, our yard exploded with sunchokes popping up everywhere. I will mention that we love growing all sorts of plants and are in the process of turning our lawns into food forests so we were not concerned about the invasiveness of this plant since it was not just a food source but also a beautiful flower. However, you can keep them under control by simply mowing the young plant, or planting the tubers in large planters and cutting the blooms before they go to seed.

So just how do you plant sunchokes?

Since sunchokes are often harvested in the late fall, you can plant right away, or store them as you do other flower bulbs, in a slightly damp material like sawdust or sand in an unheated garage in the dark. Either way, you want them to stay dormant until spring.

Prepare a hole about 6 inches deep in rich soil with plenty of organic matter and in full sun
Set the tuber in the hole and cover with soil, firming the soil until the hole is filled.
Water the area lightly if the soil is not damp.
Wait for the tuber to grow!

That is really how easy they are. You can plant them in the late fall, or the middle of winter if you can get a fork in the ground or early in the spring. They are very hardy and don't seem to have many pests, besides maybe some aphids in the early summer.

More info:

According to Wikipedia... "The Jerusalem artichoke, also called sunroot, sunchoke, wild sunflower, topinambur, or earth apple, is a species of sunflower native to central North America. It is cultivated widely across the temperate zone for its tuber, which is used as a root vegetable."

Growing zones 3-8

Source for buying sunchokes, (from my own plants): Etsy, Wildflower Run

How to Root Black Elderberry Cuttings

2021-09-08T10:18:00.011-04:00

Black Elderberries

Elderberry - one of the fastest growing plants is also very quick to form roots on simple hardwood or softwood cuttings. If you have access to healthy black elderberry plants, you should be able to take a few cuttings (with permission, of course) and within just two years, be harvesting your own black elderberries.

If you take your own cuttings, cut a six to eight inch section of woody stem and make sure to include at least one leaf node at the top, and one or two others lower down if possible. Place the fresh cuttings directly in water as soon as possible

So, given that you now have some black elderberry cuttings in your hand - what next?

Step 1: Identify the correct orientation of the cutting.

Carefully inspect each cutting to determine which end is the top and which is the bottom. Proper orientation is essential, as a cutting placed upside down will not absorb water and will quickly dry out.

Step 2: Use visual cues to confirm orientation.
If leaves are still attached, the top of the cutting will be obvious. If not, examine the leaf nodes along the stem. Each node is wider on the upper side and tapers downward toward the stem. The wider side should always face upward.

Step 3: Mark the bottom of the cutting.

When removing cuttings from the parent plant, make a slanted cut at the bottom end. This angled cut helps you quickly identify the correct orientation later and improves consistency when planting or placing cuttings in water.

Roots forming at the lower leaf node

If you still have a couple of months before winter, place the cuttings in a suitably sized container so that they are more than halfway submerged in water. Set the container in a sunny window and change the water every few days.

Within one to two weeks, you should notice small bumps forming at the base of the cutting. These are the beginnings of roots, which will grow a little more each day. Once you see roots stretching out, it’s time to plant the cuttings—either in their permanent location or into plant pots. Be very gentle when planting to avoid disturbing the new roots, then water well.

Plant elderberries in full sun for the best fruit production. Although they tolerate poor conditions, they perform best in loamy soil with plenty of sunlight and regular water. Keep in mind that elderberries go dormant in winter and burst back to life in early spring.

The first year may seem unimpressive, as the plant focuses on establishing a strong root system and typically sends up only two or three stems. By the second year, however, growth becomes dramatic. Plants can reach over ten feet tall and produce six to twelve arching branches, each bearing large umbels of beautiful black elderberries.

If you don't have cuttings, you can check out my Etsy site, Wildflower Run.

https://wildflowerrun.etsy.com

American Black Elderberry Flowers

How to Root Red Mulberry (Morus Rubra) Tree Cuttings

2021-06-14T15:57:00.002-04:00

Summertime is such a fun time for kids when school is finally out. They often have time to think for themselves and be outside exploring this big grand world even if it is from within the scope of their own backyards or maybe a park close by. Half of the United States, from the Mississippi eastward is home to a wonderful fruit tree that almost always grows wild without any care from humans and produces bucket loads of fruit free for children. The red mulberry is the tree I remember finding early in the summer before the blackberries were ripe. They are so much easier to pick as the tree has no thorns.

Now, I am happy to have a few mulberry trees on my property even if it's only to harvest a few handfuls to eat fresh after I get my mail on summer days. The fruit is soft and sweet and the seeds are barely perceptible when I eat them. I was pleased to find out that this tree will also root from cuttings while it is actively growing, unlike most fruit trees that root from dormant cuttings.

So, how to get these red mulberry tree cuttings to root? There are just a few steps that you can follow and within a few years, you can harvest your own mulberries!

1) Obtain fresh cuttings, preferably with a top leaf. You want to make sure that they cutting is still moist inside so that water can flow from the potting soil into the cutting. If you received them via mail, recut the bottom cut so that you are working with a fresh surface. Immediately place the cutting in water.

2) Prepare a pot by filling it with a well moistened mixture of half coconut coir and vermiculite. (You can also use perlite). Poke a hold in it the same diameter of the cutting about 4 inches deep

3) Dip the freshly cut end of the red mulberry cutting into a rooting hormone preparation

4) Carefully place the cutting into the prepared hole, sinking it down until there is only one node above the soil line

5) Press the soil firmly around the cutting, using your fingers.

6) Water the cutting with room temperature water - preferably non-chlorinated

7) Cover the cutting with a clear cup or bag to keep humidity levels high.

8) Place the cutting some place warm and with indirect light for four to six weeks or until rooted.

9) Check the cutting every few days by lifting the cover and allowing fresh air in. Make sure the soil stays damp but not wet.

10) Plant the rooted cutting into a new pot filled with good garden soil. Place outside in a sunny spot and make sure to keep soil damp. In the fall, you can plant your new tiny mulberry tree in permanent location where it will get plenty of sunshine, preferably near other trees but still have room to grow.

That's it. Pretty simple. Although I will say that sometimes the mulberry cuttings can be resistant to rooting. Don't expect more than 50 percent to succeed, unless you have a special touch!

You can check out my Etsy page, Wildflower Run to see if I have any mulberry cuttings in stock.

Full grown mulberry tree

How to Root Hops from Stem Cuttings

2021-06-10T12:41:00.007-04:00

Photo by Michael Styne

A few years back, I was gifted some Humulus Lupulus 'Cascade' hop rhizomes to plant in an empty space in my yard for use in future beer brewing.

We tended them so carefully and marked their spot in our yard so as not to mow over any newly sprouting hop tendrils and then watched with excitement as they appeared, and grew, and grew some more until we had more growth than we ever expected.

Hops grow fast and even are even considered invasive by some gardeners but it is not listed on the USDA Invasive Species List. (https://www.invasiveplantatlas.org/subject.html?sub=12189) They are a perennial bine that grows easily from 10 to 20 feet high in full sun with plenty of water and in good soil. Yes, a reliable means of asexual propagation is by splitting off some of the rhizomes that grow outward from the central root mass, but there is another way...

Did you know you don't have to do any digging? You can root cuttings from actively growing hops.

Hops

My procedure is pretty simple.

I remove a section of the bine, usually when I am pruning the plant in the spring and early summer.
Trim the section into smaller 6-8 inch pieces that each have three to four growing nodes.
Trim extra leaves, leaving one leaf at the top to photosynthesize carbohydrates for the cutting.
Place the cutting into a prepared rooting mix of dampened coco coir and vermiculite mix so that the top growth node is sitting on the top of the mixture.
Keep the cutting moist but not wet and in a shady but warm spot for the next two weeks or so or until you notice the new roots.
Transfer the cutting to a plant pot filled with regular potting soil and keep moist until you are ready to plant it outside in a permanent location.

Freshly sprouted hop plant

Note: These plants are so easy to root that I have just stuck my pruned cuttings into a bucket of water and forgotten about them for a couple of weeks only to find they had rooted themselves, so don't be too intimidated by the details.

If you would like a more in depth article on this process, you can click here.

I hope you give rooting a hop vine a try, as I think you will be happily rewarded for your efforts.

Just make sure you are not propagating a patented vine. You can just insert the variety of the hop name on the Google Patent Search page and find out quickly whether you can proceed legally.

Sometimes in the early spring, I sell Cascade Hop cuttings on my Etsy page, Wildflower Run.

Starting New Red Currant Bushes From Cuttings

2021-05-26T16:17:00.002-04:00

Red Currants

One of my favorite plants to grow is red currants. I am not sure exactly why it is my favorite as I have struggled to get mine to grow in my current (:-) yard until this last year. There is something about the brown sticks pushing out their buds in the early spring and then the strings of green berries that slowly ripen into translucent balls of deep red beautifulness that just inspires me. On the other hand, I don't really enjoy picking them as they are small, somewhat hard to harvest and easily squished. But again, they are just beautiful!

A couple of years ago, I discovered the joy of propagating red currants from cuttings. Back then, my only experience was concord grapes and roses and so I tried using the same method. I would take a few hardwood cuttings in the fall when the plant was dormant and just lay them flat covered with about 6 inches of soil in a trench for the winter. Some springtime, I would unearth them and plant the ones with roots emerging. But that took a long time.

Strands of Ripe Currants

Now, I found through watching some gardeners in the UK that they simply chop off a few branches and place them in a jar of water until they see white roots emerging. This method only takes a few weeks - not all winter.

Here is my simple method that you can try at home if you or a friend has a currant bush (or gooseberry or jostaberry) and you want to increase your plant stock.

Cut a branch off a healthy currant bush after a node, close to the base of the plant.
Cut the branch into 6-inch sections, each with at least two nodes, preferably three nodes. I cut flat at the top just after a node and angled at the bottom just before a node.
Set the cuttings directly into water.*
Place the container in a sunny but warm spot like a kitchen window or under a grow light for four to six weeks. Check the water periodically and refresh it if it becomes cloudy.
Once the roots start to appear, transplant the rooted cutting into potting soil and keep moist until you see vigorous growth.
Plant outside in a permanent location in late fall or early spring.

*Alternatively, you can dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone and then place it directly into damp potting soil. Firm the soil around the cutting and water it before setting it in a sunny warm space.

Currants seem to need fertile soil with plenty of organic matter and only 6 hours or so of sunlight. I had one year with almost no growth on my bushes and then found after I applied a thick mulch of mushroom soil that they sprang to life and doubled in size.

Red currant bush ready for picking with fresh ripe berries

I don't do much to my currants other than mulch in the spring and then cut out three year old branches at their base during the winter. They are a nice easy addition to our permaculture garden and the beautiful berries sparkle on top of desserts on our morning cereal. When I have an abundance of berries to harvest, I always have to figure out if I am going to freeze them as is, or make beautiful ruby red jelly, or currant jam or even a red currant liqueur. Such a nice dilemma!

I do sell some of my successfully rooted Red Currant cuttings on my Etsy page, Wildflower Run, if you don't have a source for them.

Rooting Fig Cuttings

2021-05-19T15:18:00.012-04:00

See the roots forming at the basal node

I was really surprised to find out I could grow a fig plant in USDA growing zone 7a where we have freezing cold winters. One of my wonderful kids bought me a couple of fig plants over ten years ago. Each fall when the weather changed and the fig leaves fell, I would wrap the fig branches in burlap and plastic trash bags and use leaf mulch or pine needles to insulate the plant from freezing damage. And then I learned that as the plant got older, the damage was almost non-existent, so now I don't do anything.

My next big surprise was that I could cut off sections of the current year's growth and root them into forming new plants. I was always so worried that I would kill my gifted fig trees by not taking proper care of them and here I could start new plants! So what is my method?

Growing figs is easy!

Rooting fig tree cuttings:

1. Cut 6 to 8 inch sections about pencil size and larger. Cut just after a node on the bottom - cutting at an angle - and then after three nodes using a straight cut.

2. Place the cuttings immediately in room temperature water - just an inch or two is plenty as the bottom cut is what needs to stay wet. You can leave them in water for several days if necessary for storage or until you are ready to plant them. I have actually rooted some cuttings in an inch of water, but that method is not the most reliable.

3. Plant the cutting in a potting soil mixture of perlite, peat moss and coconut coir, or something similar. You want the cutting to be able to access the moisture in the soil mixture without becoming wet. At least one node should be visible above the top of the soil where a leaf bud should swell and open into a leaf.

4. Place the potted fig cutting in a sunny window or under grow lights in a warm environment - around 65 to 75 degrees (F). Only water when the soil is dry to the touch, but don't let it dry out or you risk drying out the tiny new roots that form over time. Expect them to stay here for 4 to 6 weeks to root.

5. When you see the leaves swelling and growing large, you can pretty much calculate that the roots are growing well. Tip the plant upside down to remove it carefully from the plant pot and check for roots. If there are only a couple, put it back and wait a little longer. Once the roots are starting to circle around the base of the plant pot, you are ready to plant your new fig in a larger pot or directly into the ground where you plant to grow figs permanently.

Fig Harvest!

This is my preferred method for a pretty good success rate. I have had less success with rooting directly in water, but the method did work. Another method I tried was taking a cutting and burying it directly in the ground in the spring about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost and that worked amazingly well. I have tried wrapping cuttings in a damp paper towel and then in a plastic bag, but they tended to get moldy and rot.

Now I have fig plants all over my yard, several that I rooted from gifted cuttings from friends and family. We eat them fresh during the later summer months and well into the fall until the first frost kills the leaves. I made lots of fig preserves when we can't keep up with eating all the harvest.

Make your own fig preserves

Planting Fig Plants:

If you purchase a fig plant that was started during the winter, you should keep it indoors in the warmer temperatures and in a sunny spot or under grow lights until the soil temperatures are around 60 degrees F. Otherwise, for plants bought during the growing season, plant them in a sunny spot in rich loamy soil. Water both when the soil is dry to the touch.

For further information on growing the actual fig plants, The University of Maryland Extension has a great article here: Growing Figs in Maryland

If you are interested in purchasing fig cuttings, I sell them on my Etsy page here: Celeste Fig Cuttings.

Planting Elderberries (Lots of them)

2021-05-17T16:12:00.007-04:00

Although I may not have posted anything here for a while, I have been quite busy. Today is mid-May and the Covid-19 Pandemic is just beginning to loosen its grip on our daily lives. Life had been normal until last February when we realized that our travel plans had to be put on hold. We had no idea for how long or what was ahead, so we focused our extra time into growing a large garden and implementing our perennials.

Elderberries? Why elderberries?

Black Elderberry Bush

For me personally, I always found myself looking for elderberries in the wild while exploring any forested lands in our travels. I had fond memories of my father saying that he loved finding elderberries and often found them growing inconspicuously near small streams or along the edges of lakes. I was surprised to find a few bushes growing near my home at the top of the Chesapeake Bay where the water is no longer salty. I collected a few cuttings and successfully rooted them to plant along the creek along our yard.

Last January, I decided to try again and collected a few dozen cuttings and placed them in jars of water to set on window sills in the sunshine during the gray days of winter when nothing was growing. Elderberry syrup was becoming popular and I thought maybe I should experiment with selling some of the cuttings. Well, that was the beginning of a fun year selling "sticks" as my friends and family called them. Not only have I sold hundreds - okay, thousands of cuttings, I have also planted hundreds of cuttings.

If you want to grow your own cuttings, the process is quite simple.

1.) Inspect your cutting to make sure it is fresh by scraping away a small bit of bark from the bottom end to check for the green phloem. This is where dissolved sugars and nutrients flow from the roots to the leaves. If this layer has dried up and become brown, the pathway is gone and the cutting is useless. If this layer is green, the pathway is good.

2.) Make a clean cut at the base of the cutting to make sure the water is able to be drawn up into the cutting and then set the cutting in water, covering at least the bottom two nodes. (Nodes are the bumps where new leaves and or roots form). On my cuttings, the base of the cutting is at an angle for easy planting into the soil and identification.

3.) Soak the cutting in room temperature water until you see roots forming at the base of the cutting or at the nodes. Elderberries are easy to root since they will form adventitious roots in the internodes. Change the water every week or whenever you notice the water getting cloudy. Try to use non-chlorinated water if possible by setting tap water out on the counter at least for 20 minutes to allow the chlorine to dissipate.

Fragrant black elderberry flowers

4.) Carefully plant the rooted cuttings outside before the heat of the summer or afterwards during the fall. Elderberries thrive in soil with plenty of organic matter and lots of moisture with at least 6 hours of sunlight per day, although they will grow a little slower in sub-prime conditions. Keep weeds away from the base of the plant and mulch if possible to reduce water evaporating from the soil. Water if necessary until you have an established bush, typically after one full year of growth.

5.) Prune your elderberries. Since the fruit will grow on the current year's growth, you could cut the bush to the ground after the second year of growing and once the plant has established a good root system. However, taking the time to cut back any three year old canes to the ground will keep the bush in check with healthy growth.

Black elderberries are black when ripe

How to Dehydrate Marigold Petals

2014-10-09T11:26:00.001-04:00

Some time ago, I found out that marigold petals are the poor man's alternative to saffron. I can make a rich broth to cook rice in, but that beautiful orangy color is hard to come by with normal spices. Since I grow marigolds in my garden and at this time of the year, there are hundreds of blooms, I decided to collect some. Sure I can go out a pick a few now for tonight's dinner, but in the middle of winter my garden will be empty. Solution? Dry some now to add to my stash of dried herbs.

Pick your blooms in the morning after the sun has had a chance to dry off the dew. Of course, you can only use flowers that are grown without any insecticides. I just use my fingers and give them a slight twist. In just a few minutes you will have a good basketful of gorgeous brightly colored flowers.

Now the seed part of the flower is bitter and needs to be removed. I found that using a pair of scissors made the job easy to separate the petals from the seeds.

Sort the petals from the seeds by placing them in different containers. Keep the petals in a clean container as you don't want to contaminate them.

By the time you are done with the basket, you will have a nice fluffy pile of marigold petals and a pile of seed pods. I gave the seeds to our chickens but you could also add them to your compost pile.

To dry the petals, you need to place them on a tray lined with a paper towel to help absorb the moisture. Don't make the layer too thick or you will run the risk of mold developing between the petals.

Place the tray in a warm oven of 145 degrees Fahrenheit. Every couple of hours, give them a little stir with your fingers to make sure the heat is circulating between the petals.

When they have shrunk considerably in volume and feel dry to the touch, turn off the oven and let them cool down to room temperature.

Pour them into a dry sealable container and store in a cool and dark cupboard. Now you are ready to experiment with using marigold flowers in your cooking.

They look beautiful in a fried rice dish and add a rich color to soup broths.

Why not use marigolds? They are full of carotenoids, antioxidants and so easy to grow and have a pleasant almost citrusy flavor.