ACMG Mountain Conditions Report

[MCR] Rockies, Tokumm Pole

2012-03-10T05:56:00.001-08:00

I guided an ascent of Tokumm Pole yesterday, March 9th. We had thought that we would pull our ropes after rappelling in and lead out, but I was happy to top rope. The first 8 meters of the route demands some acrobatic climbing over several roofs that would be very difficult to protect. Basically the route is lacking feet from having been climbed a bunch. The right side of the route was raining with water yesterday and will be growing and may present a more normal climb when dry.

Lots of cornices and large snow dollops overhang the canyon so be mindful of where you stand. One smacked down downstream from us yesterday. The high ice/gravel/dirty snow line of a flood in the canyon is over head level, think about how you can get out of there quick if the water level starts to rise.

Two parties climbed the WI 3/4 exit route 15 meters upstream from the Tokumm Pole.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Special Public Avalanche Warning Issued

2012-03-09T12:46:00.001-08:00

The Canadian Avalanche Centre has issued a warning for this weekend. Areas include the Columbia Mtns., BC's South Rockies, and the South Coast Inland Areas. These warnings are issued during times when we believe there's increased potential for people's perception of the avalanche risk diverging from actual conditions. A widening of this gap is evident in the rcent increase in reports of close calls and incidents. For more information, including the warning's press release visit our website avalanche.ca/cac.

ilya storm
istorm@avalanche.ca

[MCR] Rockies, Weeping Wall Right Side

2012-03-09T04:36:00.000-08:00

I guided an ascent of the Weeping Wall Right Side yesterday, March 8th. The noticeable change since my last trip there six days ago is that a new skin of ice has frozen over the left hand tool side of the steep part on pitch number 2 (the pitch off of the rock anchors). More involved climbing than before and more work getting more screws, but more user friendly now with the passage of we three.

Two parties were climbing on the Upper Weeping Wall when we drove away.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Coast Snow and Avalanche Observation Flight

2012-03-07T21:43:00.000-08:00

Hi All,

I went of a 2 hour flight today to check out a couple of operations for which we are forecasting avalanche hazard. The flight took us from Squamish southeast over to the Fraser River just north of Hope up to the south end of the Stein then back across just south of Whislter over to the Squamish Elaho confluence and south to Squamish.

The weather was generally good with a high overcast. A layer of marine cloud was crawling north from the lower mainland at about 5500-6500 feet but was broken and ended at the north end of the big fjordal lakes (Pitt, Stave, Harrison etc.). East of the Lillooet drainage there was a 30-50km NW wind that was transporting a lot of snow and made for a queazy flight. At 5000' it was -10deg and at 8000' it was 0 deg.

Below are some observations cut from the report I wrote about the flight for the clients:

GOAL:

The aim of this flight was to assess the snowpack that has developed over the last month. A secondary but equally important part of the flight was to see how much snow fell in the last weather event and see if any of the weaker layers that have been observed throughout the industry are becoming reactive.

FINDINGS:

There was a significant inversion. It was -10ºC at 1500 m but 0ºC at 2500 m
There was less snow from the recent storm in the Garibaldi zone. There was more storm snow west of the Sea to Sky and the area between the Lillooet River and Fraser River.
The freezing levels during the storm hovered at or just above 500m
A large avalanche cycle was observed. The cycle occurred for the most part toward the end of the last snow event, which ended on Monday (Mar 05) morning. The majority of the slides occurred around treeline, sometimes at quite low angles.
The deposits of the slides reached around the middle of the runouts and appeared as though they were very cold a dry when they slid.
There was significantly more wind effect in the alpine. In the alpine there were only avalanches in a few isolated areas that appeared protected from the wind.
West of the Pitt River there were less observed avalanches and these seemed to propagate shorter distances. Crowns averaged 40-80cm.
East of the Pitt River the avalanches were much larger in size even though the crowns were not as deep. Entire ridge lines up to 2000-3000m long slid during the cycle producing up to size 4.5 avalanches. Some of these ran several kilometers and over 2000 m vertical. Most of these slides were only 30-50cm deep (March 4 SH?), but in many places stepped down (Feb 16 SH/FC?) another 40-80cm.
In all areas 10-20cm of low density snow was sluffing on solar aspects.
It appeared that there was another avalanche event about a week or two ago, but crowns and deposits were quite covered so it is hard to estimate the timeframe of this event.

SUMMARY

The snowpack finally reached a tipping point. Two buried instabilities, the Feb 16 and Mar 03 became reactive with this last storm. Cold temperatures since have slowed the stabilization process and preserved these layers. If the warm temps tomorrow aren't enough to trigger a number slides then the added load of storms forecast this coming week will likely bring a large avalanche cycle both in areas that have not slid yet as well as reloaded bed surfaces.

It is unclear if the mentioned surface hoar layers were blown away before further loading in the alpine, but the snow appears to be slightly more stable above the treeline. If the weak layers persist and wind slabs bridged the instabilities during this last snow load then large full path avalanches could be expected with this coming storm system.

Conny Amelunxen
MG

[MCR] Johnston & Grotto Canyons, Rockies

2012-03-07T17:24:00.000-08:00

I guided at Johnston Canyon today (7 March) and the climbs are still in excellent condition overall. The main (right hand) routes are in good steep shape and the ice on the upper slope has 'healed up' since a few weeks back resulting in some decent ice for screws at the top again. All the recent snow makes managing the belay ledge easier now and we spent some time today digging a platform out. Be aware that the access trail up the right side has some hidden moats where the new snow is barely bridging over holes on top of the steep, wet, rock slab. Punching through in the wrong spot could leave you soaked or worse.

The two pillars that have formed to the left are in better than usual shape with quality climbing and protection. Both are well attached (for now) and saw plenty of traffic today. Temps today peaked at 3C at the base, but felt more like 15C in the Spring sun up high. When we get cold clear nights in the coming days, it is definitely worth remembering at this time of year that the sun has plenty of punch, and the ice at the canyon rim is getting far more solar warming far sooner in the day than you might be aware of down low. We had some significant dagger fall today to remind us of that and did some cleaning of the smaller hangfire we could reach.

Grotto Falls was in fat snowy shape yesterday as well. Enough new ice has formed (and was still forming) that all of the old V-threads on top are getting deeply buried, so we left a burly new anchor on one of the trees on climber's left. His and Hers aren't faring too well, with His barely there most of the way and Hers thin but protectable. The creek is seeing enough sun now that things were getting pretty sloppy on the hike out. Start early to avoid soaked feet.

Carl Johnston

RG/AAG

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Rockies, Louise Falls

2012-03-07T15:34:00.001-08:00

I guided an ascent of Louise Falls today, March 7th. A busy day with 20ish people active on the route. The right hand pillar was climbed. The walk off trail has continued to be trodden on through the big storm and is the preferred descent with so many people below to rappel through.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Avalanche conditions Banff, Yoho, Kootenay

2012-03-06T18:37:00.000-08:00

Anyone planning any activities over the next few days, please pay attention
to our Parks Canada avalanche bulletins. Avalanche control today on our
highways, produced avalanches up to size 4, some of them exceeding their 40
year trim lines on the Sunshine road. This was a major storm and today we
saw many large avalanches stepping down to the dirt and that would have
annihilated your house.

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
Parks Canada
220 Hawk Avenue, Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1401
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Rockies, King Creek

2012-03-06T18:24:00.001-08:00

I guided in King Creek today, March 6th. 25 cms of new snow overlying the trail, we plowed a track in. Shooting cracks, whomphing settlements and some small -one square meter- sympathetic releases in the creek bottom. We carried avalanche beacon, probes and shovels and spaced out to cross the avalanche gullies that run out into the approach.

Good climbing with lots of snow clearing. The second pitch of the "Scottish Gully" is fine steep technical climbing right now.

None of the avalanche gullies slid during this cycle. I think that a beacon, probe and shovel and safe travel techniques are a good practice in there right now.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Rockies, Johnston Canyon, Moonlight Falls

2012-03-06T05:37:00.001-08:00

March 4th I guided in Johnston Canyon. Two pillars, left and right, have formed in the centre area. We climbed the left hand one and it has decent protection and lots to stand on and chimney in, a good route. Another party climbed the right hand pillar, which is smaller and fresher, and reported no "gonging" -something I had been concerned about looking at it. The right hand pillar was then top roped by a second team.

March 5th we plowed a track into Moonlight Falls. 25 cms of snow in the parking lot in the morning. The climb was challenging with brittle ice camouflaged by snow. Hard to keep your hands warm, both of my guests suffered the screaming barfies. Four additional parties showed up below us and when we came down parties were on both Cah Cah (Caw Caw?) -the freshly bolted line on the left side of Moonlight, and on Too Low for Zero (also newly bolted). Both these lines are now alternatives to the classic ice lines.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Avalanche closure on Canmore Hill HWY 742

2012-03-05T16:51:00.000-08:00

The Canmore Hill on EEOR (HWY 742) is closed due to high avalanche hazard. Projected re-opening of the highway is late Tuesday.

Field teams found up to 70cm of storm snow overnight in the Black Prince area on Monday. The Valentine's surface hoar layer is now buried 125cm at treeline. Widespread cracking was occurring and numerous very large avalanches were heard, but not seen due to very limited visibilty. Avalanche hazard will remain HIGH for Tuesday.

Time to stay very conservative!

Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Kananaskis Country Public Safety

[MCR] Avalanche control Banff, Yoho, Kootenay

2012-03-05T12:54:00.000-08:00

Avalanche control planned on the Kootenay Highway, TCH and Sunshine road
tomorrow. No climbing or skiing in these areas.

[MCR] Avalanche Control - Whymper and Bourgeau

2012-03-04T14:49:00.000-08:00

Parks Canada is planning avalanche control on Mt. Whymper (Kootenay) and Mt. Bourgeau (Banff) on Monday March 5th. Please, no outdoor activities of any kind in these areas. Thanks for your cooperation.

Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca

[MCR] Northern Purcells: Purcell Mountain Lodge

2012-03-03T21:30:00.000-08:00

I guided in Purcell Mountain Lodge 27 Feb - 2 Mar. The surface hoar was alive & well down ~40cm on all aspects. It was particularly large (30mm+) on northerly slopes below 2000 metres, producing spectacular whumpfing & cracking. We could actually see the waves of snow move in front of us as we walked across open spots in low angled terrain. We were able to easily ski cut a number of avalanches from size 0.5-1.5 on northerly slopes along with associated remote (from a distance) releases from safe ground. Slides would have been larger if the upper snowpack had been stiffer. Everyone is likely aware that things are changing now with all of the new load in the form of snowfall & wind. This might be enough to wake up this layer on all of the aspects where we weren't getting results and will certainly increase the destructive potential of the slides that run. Please be careful out there.

Ken Bélanger

ASG, CAA2

TopCog Adventures Outdoor Guiding & Adventure Travel

[MCR] Wapta Feb 29-March 3 Rockies

2012-03-03T20:15:00.000-08:00

Although conditions at the moment are changing here are a few significant observations from the terrain covered from Peyto Lake to Bow Lake.

Feb 29 and March 1
What was noticable was the very thinly covered rocks with the storm snow of last week already well on it's way to being pure facets at Treeline.
The wind has been doing it's usual business with plenty of exposed moraine on the Peyto lake approach, compressed snow to travel onto the upper moraine.

At 8500ft there is consistantly 240cm of snow and 9000ft and above 300+. Some snow observations high on the ridge of Mt.Habel revealed the SH layer down 45cm in a very exposed ridge feature, a hard wind slab above and no shearing from tests..what was of interest was that in a more sheltered slope at the same elevation no such layer could be found. Opposite to what was expected and confirms some highly variable preservation at higher elevations.
We experienced no whumphing. Saw no new avalanches.

March 2 and 3rd extreme Westerly winds transported snow rapidly. Temps increased from -16 to -6 overnight at 7800ft.

The exit from Bow hut was fine today, obvious loading on lee Alpine slopes. Minor cracking with skier traffic.
With more snow adding up, strong winds and warmer temps the weak faceted snow around rocky features at Treeline and loaded lee slopes in the Alpine will likely have increased potential to human triggering.

Safe Travels with the new snow.
Merrie-Beth Board
ACMG Assisant Alpine/Full Ski Guide

[MCR] Polar Circus Avalanche

2012-03-03T19:54:00.000-08:00

Was in the parking lot at weeping wall at 6pm today and watched a very large snow cloud pile out of the polar circus drainage. Also observed a sz 2 avalanche in one of the paths across from weeping wall in late afternoon. Significant wind transport all day with light snow. Heavier snow fall amounts around murchison and bow summit. 10+cm on road.

James Madden

ACMG SG/AAG

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Pilsner Pillar Avalanche

2012-03-03T11:30:00.001-08:00

Hello,

Just passing on an observation from a friend driving through Field this morning. At 11am he watched Pilsner Pillar side naturally. He described the slide as more of a large sluff that lasted 30 seconds or so.

Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Rockies, Louise Falls and Weeping Wall Right Side

2012-03-02T14:35:00.000-08:00

On February 29th I guided an ascent of Louise Falls. There are two main pillars well formed although it didn't look to me like the right hand one had been climbed. It would definitely be a grade harder than the left hand -where everyone has been climbing. Little dagger threat on the climb right now. The walk off trail is well established.

March 1st and 2nd (today) I guided ascents of the Right Side of the Weeping Wall. The route is in fine shape with lots to stand on on the steepest passage. The final pitch is probably the hardest right now with not much to stand on and lots of being on your frontpoints.

The cold has repaired a lot of the first pitch of Snivelling Gully and it was climbed on both days.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Southern Purcells

2012-02-29T18:35:00.000-08:00

I went for a ski tour up the St Mary's Valley today (Sawyer Creek). This was my first tour in the area for a couple of weeks. So I had my head in the snow pack allot today. Here is what I found. Test 1 1800m SE aspect showed down 80 cm CTH26 RP result on the 12/02/08 layer at this spot the layer was a melt freeze crust of 4 cm 2nd test 2300 m E aspect showed down 120 cm CTH28 SP on 12/02/08 starting to decompose SH 10-15mm. 3rd test 2300 m, S aspect showed down 120 cm CTH 28 SC on 12/02/08 FC layer of 5 cm 4F FC. There has been significant wind loading in the last 48h. Observed 1 Na from the last 48h size 3 east aspect, 2500 m directly below ALP ridge. We had a skier remote size 3 from 15 m away while travelling on ridge top. Whole south face let go cross loaded start zone 35 deg. 120- 180 cm deep, 200m wide, ran 500 m. It ran fast and far out on low angle terrain.

Most settlements and shoot cracks where observed at lower elevations 1600-1700m in a sharp valley with little direct sun. One ridge top settlement due to new wind snow which had significant results. I have no confidence in any large open terrain. One last thing be mindful of what is above you when you are snowmobiling in. Any clear cuts that are shaded think twice.

Play safe

Dan Madell

[MCR] Kemosabe ice climb, Waiparous Creek, Rockies: Feb 29, 2012

2012-02-29T18:11:00.000-08:00

Thick, blue, slightly brittle ice on Kemosabe today. Some hanging daggers on the right of the upper pitch threaten the area below.

The upper pitch felt harder than the grade, but we may just be getting soft.

Driving approach was shorter than I remember at just less than one hour from the Ghost River turn off to the parking at marker 131(on Ghost FLUZ map). Drive was in 2WD condition most of the way. Creek crossing at marker 129 was straightforward with a thin breakable crust and water over a (apparently) solid base. Parking before this creek crossing would only lengthen the walk by ~ 20 minutes. We walked west on the cut line following the ridge south of Waiparous creek straight towards the route from marker 131. Good travel on some old tracks and knee to thigh-deep bottomless facets off the tracks: 1.5 hours from the parking. It looked like driving farther up Waiparous creek on the winter road towards marker 135, then walking south into the drainage, may shorten the approach time, but we did not try this option.

Josh Briggs
Aaron Beardmore

[MCR] Rockies, Murchison Falls

2012-02-29T04:27:00.000-08:00

My fellow guide, Matt Mueller, and I guided Murchison Falls yesterday, Feb 28th. There is a good trail into the climb. Little avalanche hazard there right now. The climb is immense but the ice was cold, compact and challenging yesterday. The climber's left hand pillar at the top has fallen off and there is not a lot of overhead threat for that climb (relative). Some umbrellas on the climber's right hand at the top.

My Daddy is a Psycho has been getting climbed and looks to be in good shape.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

[MCR] Guinness Gully and High Test, Field B.C., Feb 28, 2012

2012-02-28T23:02:00.000-08:00

Enjoyed a calm crisp day in Field guiding Guinness Gully and High Test alongside another party who climbed Guinness Stout. All routes are in great shape with good protection throughout and the upper pitches are very aesthetic in the afternoon sunshine. Some brittle ice with the current cool temps.

The 15-20cm of recent storm snow in the upper gullies has faceted out and no longer has enough of a slab property to be much of an avalanche issue at this time. Some minor sluffing in steep terrain. This could easily change with more wind or additional load but seemed fine today.

Prost! Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

[MCR] Rogers Pass Conditions

2012-02-27T11:26:00.001-08:00

Hello,

I have just returned from 7 days of skiing in Roger's Pass (Feb 20-26).

Ski quality was excellent through out the last storm which dropped over a meter of snow, however the buried surface hoar layer was and still is very touchy which limited our terrain choices. We avoided overhead hazard and skied lower angled terrain that had little consequence. We observed lots of evidence of the widespread avalanche cycle.

It should be noted that although the danger rating is decreasing due to the decreasing numbers of natural avalanches, we were still getting large settlements and stability tests in the easy range down 85cm on the well preserved (2cm in places!) surface hoar. Conditions are prime for skier triggering.

Tread lightly and choose your terrain wisely!

Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Purcells: KHMR backcountry

2012-02-27T05:09:00.000-08:00

To add to Jeff's post from a bit further north in the range. Light winds and intermittent 1cm/h snowfall today. Mostly overcast skies.

Test profile at 1770 metres on E-SE aspect:
New storm snow is reactive, but still low density
Found surface hoar down 40cm: 10mm mixed with facets 2-3mm. Reactive in tests, but fortunately no slab properties in upper snowpack so no propagation potential where we were. Therefore we kept to sheltered, treed areas and pole probed regularly for buried wind slabs as we climbed.

Same whumpfing and shallow shooting cracks on lower angled terrain as Jeff experienced.

Ken Bélanger
ASG, CAA2
TopCog Adventures Outdoor Guiding & Adventure Travel

[MCR] South Purcells

2012-02-26T15:39:00.000-08:00

Hi,

Spent today skiing mellow terrain in the South Purcells west of Kimberley. Here's a quick update on conditions:

- Unstable weather with some gusty winds and steady snowfall (1cm/hour), a couple sunny breaks.

- Test profile in a treeline glade at 2250m showed the persistent weak layer buried Feb 11th (10-20mm surface hoar) 70cm below the surface. It was very obvious in the pit wall. This layer produced moderate 'pop' or 'sudden' results with compression tests. No other significant shears were observed lower in the 260cm snowpack.

- Widespread whumpfing when breaking trail through low angled open terrain between 1800m and 2100m. Less whumpfing observed above that elevation.

- One size 2 natural avalanche observed from a distance in the lower half of a talus slope at 1975m, looked quite recent, suspect it failed on the Feb 11th layer.

Great ski quality, but with that layer out there don't be tempted into steeper open terrain!

Jeff Volp,
Ski Guide
Kimberley, BC

[MCR] Battle Abbey, Selkirks, B.C., Feb 18-25, 2012

2012-02-25T17:42:00.000-08:00

Spent the week in Battle Abbey with Roger Laurilla and enjoyed a very fun week of alpine and tree skiing! We were able to spend the first couple of days skiing more aggressive open terrain before having to pull in the reins and spend the final part of the week in the trees and chutes below the hut as the load over the Feb 16th interface reached critical mass. This morning we woke to 20cm of low density snow with no wind effect and sunny skies which made for a great finish to the week!

In this area the Feb 16 (surface hoar/sun crust/faucet) interface is down between 50-60cm. It is providing easy test results and is reactive to skier traffic with whumphing and cracking in open terrain at treeline. There has also been a lot of wind loading over the past couple of days which has left some significant buried wind slabs and new cornices to watch for. These can also trigger the deeper Feb interface as was demonstrated by several large natural avalanches in the area during the week. This mornings new snow was sluffing up to size 2 in steep terrain as the afternoon winds picked up and has also added significant new load to the Feb 16 layer.

Basically there is a lot to watch for right now on the avalanche front and we kept the ski program to either small previously skied chutes, treed glades, or moderate angled well supported open terrain without significant overhead hazard. With this in mind we had lots of great skiing that fit this profile, but it will take some time for this interface to heal and stop being a significant concern in any steep terrain.

A fun week of skiing and lots of great snow to enjoy!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com