The FlyBirD

Japan in Early Winter : Big Family Edition

2026-09-24T05:34:04.680-07:00

Yamagata in Early Winter

Planning a December holiday for a big family is quite daunting. There is so much to consider: matching holiday schedules for several children, skyrocketing fares, and, most of all, where to go. We wanted somewhere where the snow had already piled up, but the weather wasn't unbearably cold—which meant we couldn't go too far north.

We started browsing for tickets in August, which was late, but not way too late. Japan was our first choice, simply because the visa process was easier (visa waiver), and we had been there many times before. Given our experience, we hoped we could navigate moving between cities more easily.

We traveled with Grandma and Grandpa, as well as a toddler, so a direct flight was more comfortable. But again, prices were on the rise. We managed to snatch Garuda Indonesia tickets (CGK-DPS-HND and HND-CGK) for IDR 12.3 million, while other Japanese airlines such as ANA and JAL were at least IDR 18 million.

We intended to depart in mid-December, on December 17, and return on December 27, which is a tricky time of year. The snow hasn't piled up yet in many areas of Honshu. But of course, tropical children long to spend their winter holiday somewhere snowy. Yet again, Hokkaido was not an option. It was simply too cold for some people.

Finally, we prepared our 10-day itinerary from Tokyo to Karuizawa to Kanazawa to Yamagata, then back to Tokyo. All of these routes were covered by the JR Pass. It was also our first time visiting Karuizawa, Kanazawa, and Yamagata, so we were really looking forward to it.

Karuizawa

Night view at Karuizawa Prince Hotel

From the pictures, Karuizawa seemed like a little snowy town—a heaven for ski lovers—located just one hour away from Tokyo. There are several ski slopes available, but the most interesting part for us was the snow play area with various activities. For children, it was a winner: they could enjoy various winter activities in one place, and there was also a huge shopping mall complex for Mama who want to shop. The whole setup seemed perfect for a family getaway.

From Haneda Airport, we exchanged our JR Passes, transited at Tokyo Station to leave our luggage at the baggage deposit, and then took the Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station. Although we had just had an overnight flight and endured long queues for immigration and the JR Pass exchange (holiday season!), the trip from Haneda to Karuizawa was quite straightforward.

Karuizawa's view from the Bridge

When we set foot in Karuizawa Station, the first thing we noticed was the weather. It was much cooler—around five degrees colder than Tokyo. Not only that, the wind blew fiercely, sending dry air straight to our faces and bare hands.

But the sight in front of us brought so much delight. We walked to the bridge and stopped for a few minutes.

The sky in Karuizawa was bluer than ever. The combination of sunlight and blue sky brought out the best in every picture taken there. The mountains surrounding the station brought back the feeling of innocent childhood, when we could ride a bike freely and refill our lungs with clean air endlessly.

Though the building complex below the bridge felt modern and sophisticated, its architecture tried to recreate the atmosphere of an Alpine holiday village, where we had no worries about life—as long as we had plenty of money in our bank accounts. (Haha! Just kidding! But yes, it really did feel like an Alpine village.)

Sitting at the base of Mt. Asama at around 1,000 meters in elevation, Karuizawa's colder weather is in stark contrast to Tokyo. Yet the dry weather in December didn't bring much natural snow to the resort. What we saw in mid-December was mostly snow patches scattered across green grass.

Yes, some ski slopes were snowy, but not all of them were covered. The snow was not fluffy, but rather icy and compact. We learned that the resort uses artificial snow to maintain its ski slopes early in the season, with the ski season starting in November. There had been a snowy day several days earlier, but it wasn't nearly as intense as I had imagined.

I was afraid that the kids in our family would be disappointed. Especially my daughter. She could tell right away that it wasn't the kind of snow she had been looking for. Her dream of making a snowman was gone.

BUT (yes, in capital letters), there was so much that the resort had to offer for family activities.

Playground area

First, the snow play area was huge. There was a playground, a sledding area, and snow tubing. There was also a course for preschoolers and kids who wanted to learn to ski. The entry ticket was around ¥2,000–2,300 per person, depending on the ticket type, while children aged three and under were free.

Our kids spent almost half a day playing on the sleds and snow tubes endlessly. Only hunger at lunchtime could stop them. My toddler got the additional bonus of playing on the trampoline and slides in the playground, completely forgetting her initial complaint about the snow.

I and my daughter sled together

After lunch, we simply enjoyed strolling around the mall. There were various luxury-brand shops at the Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza. Unfortunately, not all stores offered tax-free shopping.

However, I think when the commercial says that the Karuizawa Prince Hotel is an entertainment complex for a family getaway, they're not kidding. The Prince area is a mini resort ecosystem where you can stay at the hotel, ski, play, shop, dine, and bathe in hot springs, all in one loop, with free shuttle buses connecting the different areas of the resort and Karuizawa Station.

We could stay there for two days for a weekend getaway and feel no need to go out of the resort. Everything was provided.

Thus, I was not buried in sorrow when I learned about the artificial snow. The activities and resort facilities were simply top-notch.

But when I said there was no need to go out of the resort, I should probably add that I did take a cab to look for a Muslim-friendly restaurant in town. There was one Nepalese restaurant that we tried, and wow—it turned out to be some of the most delicious South Asian food we had ever tasted. It was Sajiro Cafe.

Cozy Sajiro Cafe

The restaurant itself offers a Nepalese curry menu in a rustic Japanese mountain-lodge-style building. Nestled in a residential area, the architecture and interior design of the cafe create a serene atmosphere, complemented by delicious warm naan and chicken curry.

In conclusion, Karuizawa may not have been our most jaw-dropping destination, yet it was a comfortable and reliable one.

Kanazawa

Typical Garden at Kanazawa Castle

After two nights at Karuizawa Prince Hotel, we took the train to Kanazawa Station in the morning.

Actually, I had a major dilemma when deciding our itinerary around this area. I hadn't been to Nagano, which is near Karuizawa, and I also hadn't visited the Shogawa Yuran cruise, which was also nearby. At the same time, I wanted to show my family the old-city version of Japan (because we didn't visit Kyoto), and Kanazawa had it. And yes, I was secretly hoping that there would be snowfall during our visit, since I had read that Kanazawa receives heavy snowfall during winter.

Kanazawa is a compact city on the coast of the Sea of Japan, where moist air from the sea brings abundant rainfall and heavy snowfall in winter. That's why Kanazawa made it onto our list—and into our prayers for snow.

Though I said it was a compact city, Kanazawa was remarkably rich in culture, a legacy of the powerful Maeda clan that can still be seen today in the beauty of its gardens, traditional crafts, and atmospheric geisha districts. Moreover, Kanazawa largely escaped WWII destruction; therefore, many of its samurai and geisha districts have survived.

After checking in, we took a cab to a nearby Muslim-friendly restaurant, Aashirwad, in the Nagamachi district. They served one of the best cheese naans we have ever tasted. The restaurant was sizeable, but the food had big flavors.

Satisfied, we walked to Kanazawa Castle while enjoying the crisp weather and looking out over the residential areas. It was 18 degrees Celsius in winter, so we peeled off our jackets and made our way to the castle.

Some of our family at the Castle Entrance Gate

The castle ground was huge. Although much of the original castle was lost to fires over the centuries, its beautifully reconstructed gates, halls, and distinctive lead-tiled roofs still reflect the wealth and craftsmanship of the Maeda era.

We don't remember which gate we entered, but after two hours of running and chasing a toddler around the castle's gardens and grounds, we slowly made our way to Kenrokuen Garden.

However, when we arrived, the garden was almost closed. We decided to go back to the hotel and rest. Later, we had dinner—the infamous Noto Beef—at the nearby mall at the station, and then took a cab to Higashi Chaya District.Whenever we visit a new region of Japan, we always try the local wagyu, hoping to find something that can compete with our beloved Hida Beef.

Demon Slayer Entertainment District Arc

Higashi Chaya District is one of the reasons why I fell in love with Kanazawa. Unlike the geisha districts in Kyoto, which are wider and more scattered, Higashi Chaya remains remarkably intact. It felt as if we had traveled back to the Edo period instantly. The narrow alleys between the wooden houses and the beautifully preserved main street transported me straight into the setting of Demon Slayer.

We visited Higashi Chaya at night, when the streets were almost deserted. There weren't many lights, and most of them were dimly lit, almost as if they were powered by kerosene. No shops were open, and the only bright light came from a temple.

It gave me chills and a mystical feeling. That's why I felt as if I were in the setting of the Demon Slayer Entertainment District Arc.

Quiet Higashi Chaya District at night

The next day, we didn't have much time because we had to continue our journey to the next city. We visited Higashi Chaya again in the morning, simply because we were curious about how different the atmosphere would be.

Contrary to our nighttime visit, Higashi Chaya District at noon had a lively beat. Tourists were scattered here and there, but it was nowhere near as crowded as Kyoto. Taxis rolled through the narrow alleys, slightly distracting us from the feeling that we had stepped into a time capsule.

Yes, I liked it better at night.

Afternoon View

Funny thing is, instead of the snow we had been waiting for, we got a brief rain shower. It didn't last long, but we took it as a sign to head to the station early.

I would love to come back to Kanazawa and perhaps add two more nights to explore the city. Next time, I will definitely visit Kenrokuen Garden and explore more of the Geisha and Samurai districts.

Yamagata

Yamagata in the Morning

The reason why we picked Yamagata was because we were hoping that, at the very least, we would see real snow in early winter in Japan. Thus, we traveled quite a long distance between Kanazawa and Yamagata via Omiya. It was almost a five-hour trip with one transfer.

But even during the holiday season, the train was not fully packed. Most of all, Grandma, Grandpa, and the toddler seemed completely unbothered by the long journey.

Yamagata is a mountainous prefecture in the Tohoku region, bordered by the Sea of Japan to the west and surrounded by mountains on the other sides. Moisture from the Sea of Japan brings heavy snowfall in winter, especially in the mountainous areas.

Our main destinations were Ginzan Onsen and Zao Onsen, so we stayed at a hotel near Yamagata Station to make day trips to both areas easier.

Yamagata City itself felt more like a residential town. The public buses stopped operating after 19:00, and the city's bustling activity seemed to stop after 21:00. The streets were almost empty, yet some shops still had their lights on until midnight.

On our first night in Yamagata, we enjoyed Yonezawa Beef at a random restaurant just across from our hotel, Daiwa Roynet Hotel. There weren't many people, even though it was already 20:00.

Zao Onsen

The view from the Ropeway while ascending

The next day, we took a bus from the terminal at Yamagata Station to Zao Onsen. It was just under an hour's drive, and we cruised through the city center and residential areas before reaching the mountains.

Interestingly, we noticed many car dealerships along the way, with European and Japanese brands lined up beneath colorful banners.

Later, I learned that Yamagata may be a small regional city, but it is surprisingly car-oriented. In fact, Yamagata Prefecture has one of the highest car ownership rates in Japan. With its mountainous geography, snowy winters, and limited public transportation, having a car is less of a luxury and more of a necessity—perhaps explaining why we kept seeing car dealerships.

Just before we arrived at Zao Onsen, we noticed that the streets were covered in snow. My heart went ecstatic. Maybe, just maybe, we would finally have snow at Zao Onsen.

But not yet.

When we arrived at the bus stop, the snowfall had just ended, but my daughter spent her time cheerfully playing with the piles of snow in front of the bus terminal.

Zao Onsen is a historic hot-spring resort in the mountains of Yamagata, best known for its spectacular Snow Monsters (juhyo) in winter. To reach them, we took the Zao Ropeway, which has two sections with an intermediate stop: from Zao Sanroku Station to Juhyo Kogen Station, then we transferred to the second ropeway up to Jizo Sancho Station, near the Snow Monster area.

Since we were traveling with Grandma and Grandpa, we took a cab from the bus stop to the Zao Ropeway station. Yes, it may have been only 500 meters, but Grandma and Grandpa were with us!

We paid ¥4,400 for an adult round-trip ropeway ticket, while it was free for my toddler. During mid-December, the queue for the ropeway was manageable—just a 15-minute wait.

The fir trees

When the ropeway finally started ascending, we left the aerial view of the mountainous area in the background and the ski slopes below. Soon, the pine-like trees started to appear.

These were Aomori fir trees—the same trees that become covered in snow and form the Snow Monsters.

We stopped at Juhyo Kogen Station and decided that the weather was too cold for Grandma and Grandpa. They stayed in the heated rest area.

We noticed there was a restaurant at Juhyo Kogen Station, but we saved it for later. We transferred to the second ropeway up to Jizo Sancho Station, and then we finally saw the infamous Snow Monsters starting to form.

Though they weren't fully covered yet, we were quite content simply to witness them.

Ever since we boarded the second ropeway, we felt like we had entered an entirely different world. The heavy snowfall, unruly wind, and whiteout conditions made the summit feel as if it had its own weather system.

When we stepped out of the ropeway station, the wind picked up, slapping our faces with cold, biting air.

And yes, finally, the snow was abundant.

My daughter happily played with the snow for ten minutes and got her gloves wet. Then she felt too cold to play. We went back to the rest area and warmed ourselves up alongside around 30 other people who were also shuddering from the cold.

The Bell at the summit

The weather at the summit was no joke. It was perhaps around minus twelve degrees Celsius, but the wind made it feel even colder. My husband explored the area and then switched positions with me to accompany our daughter.

The blue sky

We spent maybe an hour exploring the summit but didn't have the courage—or the proper gear—to venture farther. We descended to Juhyo Kogen Station and spent a long time playing in the snow and exploring the area.

I assure you, the scenery here is so beautiful that it would be a shame to skip it.

When the clouds suddenly came

Just before the ski slope, we could see the valleys and mountain range in the background. When the sky suddenly cleared into a deep blue, we hurried to take pictures because minutes later, the clouds would suddenly appear and bring a gothic atmosphere to the scene.

Later, we descended to ground level and found a halal restaurant just behind the ropeway station. This time, it was a Turkish restaurant. We had burgers and fried chicken, and it was a delight after hours of outdoor activities.

Ginzan Onsen

View from Train to Ginzan Onsen

Actually, Ginzan Onsen was at the top of my wishlist during our trip.

As a Ghibli fan, I couldn't wait to at least feel the atmosphere that Chihiro experienced when she stepped into the bathhouse adventure. But of course, I lowered my expectations because the last snowy day at Ginzan Onsen during our trip had been a week earlier. I knew Ginzan Onsen would feel less magical.

I tried for several weeks to book a hotel at Ginzan Onsen—any hotel would have been fine—but no luck. Apparently, people book almost a year in advance, especially during the winter holiday season. We could only hope for a sudden cancellation closer to the date, but I checked repeatedly and there was none.

Ginzan Onsen is frequently associated with Studio Ghibli's Spirited Away, especially because of its atmospheric wooden buildings and snowy night scenery. But here's the interesting part: it was not officially the model for the bathhouse in the film. The visual resemblance has fueled the association for years.

From Yamagata, we took a train to Oishida Station for 30 minutes and then a town bus for another 50 minutes. We departed very early because we were afraid there would be a long queue for the bus. Again, we had to consider the Grandma-and-Grandpa factor and make the journey as comfortable as possible for them.

When we arrived at Oishida, there was already a queue, but a single bus could accommodate everyone. Most passengers were tourists, but there were also locals, and they happily chatted with my father-in-law, Grandpa.

Grandpa speaks Japanese fluently because he spent several years attending college in Japan.

The scenery outside the window was just a typical rural area in Japan. Houses were spaced apart with spacious yards, and there was a town center with a huge supermarket. Farther away, we entered a more rural area, where green fields and small forests dominated the view, with just a little bit of snow scattered around.

Finally, almost everyone got off the bus and walked toward Ginzan Onsen. But funnily enough, I don't know where all those streams of people went, because Ginzan Onsen itself was not crowded at all when we walked in.

The River and the Ryokans

We crossed the bridge and noticed right away that the infamous Instagram-worthy viewpoint was there—the most popular place to take pictures.

Actually, Ginzan Onsen is tiny. The “fairytale town” that appears enormous in photographs is essentially a very small hot-spring settlement tucked into a mountain valley. You can explore the central area surprisingly quickly.

We spent about an hour walking from the starting point to the very end of the town, where the road ended at a rocky hill. We enjoyed the waterfall, took tons of pictures, and I even fell on the slippery road—but it still only took us about an hour.

The most beautiful and ancient Bathhouse

Ginzan Onsen without both snow and the night view was very different.

It lost some of its magical feeling. I didn't feel like Chihiro entering a time capsule.

Yes, of course it was beautiful. Many ryokan use traditional wooden architecture that makes you feel as if you are inside a little snow globe. The Ginzan River divides the ryokan on both sides, creating a picture that seems to belong to another era—so theatrical, yet soothing, with the sound of falling water.

But yes, it felt more like a picture than a movie. We could see the beauty, but we couldn't quite feel the melancholy, chills, and mystical atmosphere that I had imagined.

After strolling around, we had lunch at one of the few restaurants open in the area. We had udon and tempura to warm our bodies after being outside in the cold.

Mandatory Picture

Unfortunately, we didn't realize how quickly time was slipping away while we were having lunch. Our train was in an hour and a half, while the next one wasn't for another three hours. We didn't want to arrive back in Yamagata too late.

The water fall

We tried to call an Uber, but after waiting for 15 minutes, no car picked us up. We visited the tourist center and asked for their help in calling a taxi. But the taxi available was in Oishida Station, which was 50 minutes away.

The driver promised he would arrive within 20 minutes and get us back to Oishida Station just before our train.

The taxi arrived 20 minutes later, and we weren't sure whether we would make it on time.

So there it was: a Fast and Furious-style taxi ride in Japan.

We made it just three minutes before the train departed.

¥15,000 well spent.

After arriving in Yamagata, we tried to explore the area by taking the local bus. We had dinner at Sushi-Ro, which was also the biggest Sushi-Ro we had ever visited, and we had the best shrimp tempura we had ever tasted.

After 19:00, we took the last bus back to the hotel. We also visited a local supermarket and found the biggest strawberries ever, much to my daughter's delight.

The next day, we caught the long train ride back to Tokyo.

Nikko

The Shrine

We had one remaining day on our JR Pass, and it felt like a waste not to use it beyond Tokyo. Yet we were tired, so we opted to visit a city close to Tokyo.

And we had never been to Nikko, so it seemed like a wise choice. Not too far, and covered by the JR Pass.

We knew it would rain, but the forecast said the rain would stop by noon, around the time we arrived in Nikko.

But of course, no.

It was raining cats and dogs when we arrived at Nikko Station.

We waited at the station while my daughter slept in my lap, and then, suddenly, the rain stopped.

We took a bus to the famous Shinkyo Bridge—the famous red-painted bridge that has been replicated in many places, especially in Indonesia.

The Shinkyo Bridge

Shinkyo means “Sacred Bridge,” and according to legend, it wasn't built by humans at all. When the monk Shōdō Shōnin couldn't cross the raging river, two giant snakes appeared and transformed into a bridge beneath his feet.

Today, the vermilion bridge marks the entrance to sacred Nikko—a surprisingly dramatic beginning to a town filled with temples, forests, and legends.

It was once a functional bridge, yet ordinary people were not allowed to cross it.

However, when we arrived, the rain started pouring heavily again. My daughter was still asleep, and we didn't bring a stroller. My husband carried her while I held the umbrella over them. Trying to carry a 15-kg sleeping little human through the wind and rain on slippery streets, peak parenting.

We walked through the rain looking for shelter, but no restaurants were open.

We climbed the hill and found a nice hamburg beef restaurant. We had lunch while waiting for the rain to stop, which took almost two hours.

Then we made our way downhill and crossed the street, reaching the Toshogu area.

The Slippery Stairway

We climbed again, up the huge slippery stairs beneath a forest of cedar trees.

Yes, the rain had stopped, but it had been replaced by a thin mist.

It felt as if we were apprentices, learning to decipher the secret order of nature. We seemed to have stepped out of our universe and into another—an ancient, sacred world where nature felt almost sentient.

We wandered around the shrine area, marveling at the huge, ancient cedar trees lining the paths, until we checked the clock and realized it was time to catch the train back to Tokyo so we wouldn't miss our dinner appointment.

Nikko felt almost otherworldly. Beautiful, yes—but in a way that made me feel small. I wonder how gorgeous it would be in a fall season. However not the wisest choice to visit with a toddler.

Tokyo

Mandatory visit at Tokyo

Since we were a family of ten, we had different schedules and priorities while visiting Tokyo. My husband and I wanted to meet our friends who lived in Tokyo, while the other family members had their own shopping destinations.

We spent three days in Tokyo visiting friends, shopping, and having family dinners at local halal restaurants.

We stayed in an Airbnb near Akihabara Station, and it was strategically located. There were several halal restaurants within walking distance, and we were only one station away from the shopping centers in Akihabara.

Finally, on the tenth day, we booked two Uber cars to Haneda Airport and finished our holiday with the widest smiles.

We experienced almost everything Japan could offer us: snow activities, shopping complexes, heavy snowy mountains, an infamous onsen, old towns, spiritual shrines, and the megapolis.

It wasn't the snow-filled winter holiday we had imagined when we started planning.

But perhaps that's the point of traveling with a big family.

You plan for one thing, and somehow come home with a completely different collection of memories.

Eurotrip with a toddler (Part IV), a Life Long Wishlist

2026-06-20T11:19:34.109-07:00

Matera

Several years ago, my husband and I watched No Time to Die. I found myself completely mesmerized by the scenery of an Italian town where James Bond's action scenes took place. I was so engrossed in the breathtaking landscape that I barely paid attention to the story during the opening scenes. Later, I searched online and discovered that the filming location was Matera, a small town in the southern Italian region of Puglia.

When we finally decided to visit Italy, I knew Matera had to be on our itinerary, no matter how complicated the route would become. In fact, we planned our entire trip around reaching Matera. You can imagine how excited we were when the day finally came.

As it turned out, Puglia is one of Italy's most underrated regions. It has so much more to offer than just Matera. We spent four days and three nights there, taking our time to enjoy its beautiful landscapes without rushing from one place to another.

Matera

View from Our Hotel

We traveled from Naples to Matera by Itabus. It was a Friday before a long weekend, and our bus arrived almost an hour behind schedule. Thankfully, we had four seats all to ourselves.

The weather was cloudy and eventually turned rainy. I had been looking forward to the coastal views around Sorrento, but unfortunately we couldn't see much. We did, however, get a close view of Mount Vesuvius before the scenery gradually changed into vast grasslands. We both dozed off and arrived in Matera at around 5:00 p.m.

Stepping off the bus, we didn't see the Sassi immediately. Sassi is an extraordinary an off-white town carved into limestone cliffs which continuously inhabited for nearly 9,000 years. Matera Sassi is divided into two historic districts: Sasso Caveoso, the older quarter overlooking the ravine, and Sasso Barisano, the more developed area lined with shops, restaurants, and boutique hotels.

The bus terminal is actually located in what feels like an ordinary Italian town. We took a taxi to our hotel, and the driver was kind enough to give us his business card so we could message him on WhatsApp whenever we needed a ride back to the terminal.

Our boutique hotel was located right at the entrance to the Sassi. Even though it was raining when we arrived, my heart started racing. Standing there, I felt as if I was looking at a giant painting—an entire city that seemed too surreal to be a real place.

Although we arrived quite late, we didn't want to waste a single moment. We headed straight out to explore Matera while looking for somewhere to have dinner. And yes, it was still raining.

Since we wanted to save our energy for the following day, we decided to spend our first evening exploring Sasso Barisano (we thought it will be more flat). Our main mission was to find a highly recommended restaurant, but we kept stopping every few minutes because every corner seemed worthy of a photograph. What can I say? Matera is one of those rare places where every single angle feels effortlessly beautiful.

Our hotel's receptionist recommended that we visit Palombaro Lungo, an enormous underground cistern that once served as Matera's main water reservoir. It is no longer used today, but standing inside it made us realize that Matera was, in many ways, an early example of a sustainable city.

Palombaro Lungo cisterns

For thousands of years, the people of Matera lived without a reliable river. Instead of fighting their environment, they designed an ingenious system to collect every drop of rain. Nearly every home had its own water tank, while massive communal reservoirs such as Palombaro Lungo supplied the wider community.

Ironically, despite this remarkable engineering, Matera was once known as "the Shame of Italy." Our receptionist told us that, until the 1950s, a single cave house often sheltered not only an entire extended family but also their livestock. With no modern sanitation and severe overcrowding, living conditions became so poor that the Italian government relocated thousands of residents to newly built neighborhoods.

Matera's rebirth began in 1986, when the government funded the restoration of the abandoned cave districts. Just seven years later, UNESCO recognized the Sassi as a World Heritage Site. Within a single generation, a place once regarded as a national embarrassment became one of Italy's greatest cultural treasures.

a lonely stroll

Yet Matera was never completely abandoned. Even during those decades, a handful of families chose to remain, either because of financial circumstances or their deep attachment to the place they called home. That uninterrupted human presence is one of the reasons Matera is considered one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited settlements.

We visited the cistern only for good 10 minutes because I have unexplainable succofating feeling while in a dark and moldy underground.

As we slowly made our way downhill through the Sassi, we expected the empty cave houses to feel eerie, perhaps even haunted. Instead, they felt peaceful. The only sound was the gentle rhythm of raindrops falling onto the cobblestones. The weathered stone walls, worn wooden doors, and quiet statues seemed to hold thousands of untold stories. It didn't feel like walking through abandoned houses—it felt like walking through a place that had simply grown old while patiently preserving the memories of everyone who had ever called it home.

We had dinner at Baccus that night, where we had our first taste of orecchiette, Puglia's signature pasta. Thankfully, my daughter approved of it immediately.

Another angle of Matera

The next morning, we continued exploring the other side of the Sassi, Sasso Caveoso. Since we were traveling with a stroller, we decided to follow the main road downhill instead of taking the countless stone stairways. At first, it seemed like a smart decision—until we glanced at the time and realized we had to return to the bus terminal to catch our bus to Bari.

Unfortunately, we were already at the far end of the Sassi, while our hotel was on the opposite side. The quickest route back was straight through what felt like thousands of stone steps. Looking back, bringing a stroller to Matera was probably one of our worst travel decisions.

To make things even more interesting, our daughter suddenly decided she was too tired to walk. My husband carried her all the way up and down the endless staircases, while I struggled with the folded stroller. By the time we reached the top, we were completely exhausted but now it's one of those travel memories we can't help but laugh about.

To be fair, there are shuttle buses and even Ape Calessinos—the iconic Italian three-wheeled vehicles operating within the Sassi. But we were determined to explore Matera on foot.

Mama Koala and Baby Koala

Looking back, one night in Matera simply wasn't enough. I would recommend staying at least two nights to fully appreciate the beauty of the Sassi without having to rush from one place to another.

Our Life-long wishlist has been answered. I don't know how to explain the feeling after we experienced the masterpiece we ever visited in this earth. I only can say, Matera is the must-visit place at least once before you die.

Bari

The Alleys at Bari Vecchia

Since we were already in the Puglia region, we decided to exploring some of the most beautiful coastal towns in southern Italy. We stayed in Bari as our home base, commuting to neighboring cities by train and bus.

We rented an apartment just across from the exit of Bari Centrale. Luckily, there were plenty of Asian restaurants nearby. It was the last leg of our journey, and our palate had started to crave flavors closer to home. Thai food turned out to be the perfect answer.

The tricky part, however, was the apartment itself. It was in an old building with a very traditional elevator that could only be reached after climbing a flight of stairs. Most of the units seemed to be Airbnb rentals, although a few local families still lived there—and they were surprisingly loud every night. Since it was a long holiday weekend, accommodation near the station was much more expensive than usual, so we didn't really have much choice but to accept the situation.

When we arrived in Bari from Matera, it was already afternoon. The bus ride had taken only about an hour and a half. After having lunch near the bus terminal, we decided to start exploring the city right away.

We crossed Bari Centrale through the underground passage and found ourselves at Piazza Umberto I, where a decent-sized playground sits in the middle of the park. My daughter happily spent almost an hour there, playing with local children and, I assume, a few young tourists as well. The piazza was lively, with people simply sitting beneath the trees, enjoying the pleasant weather. That day, it finally felt as though spring had arrived after days of cold winds.

The white-washed Walls

Afterward, we wandered through the shopping streets before walking about a kilometer to Bari Vecchia, the city's historic center.

I think the Puglia region has a very distinctive architectural identity. Just like Matera, many of the buildings in Bari Vecchia are constructed from local limestone. Their creamy-white facades, narrow medieval alleys, and pale stone streets blend into one seamless landscape.

Beyond their timeless beauty, these narrow lanes were cleverly designed to create shade and keep the city cool during Puglia's scorching summers. The white limestone has another unexpected gift—it catches and reflects sunlight so delicately that the whole town seems to shimmer. It turns every corner into a giant natural reflector, bathing faces in soft light and making even the most casual snapshots look effortlessly beautiful. As an Asian, I certainly wasn't complaining about the free natural lighting.

Of course, we had to see the Adriatic Sea from Bari's coastline. We took a bus from Bari Centrale, following the directions suggested by Google Maps. One convenient thing about Bari is that you can simply tap your Mastercard or Visa card on the bus (unlike in Naples). The tricky part, however, was that the actual bus schedule didn't match what Google Maps showed.

Our bus brought us to the coast, but in a completely different area than we expected. We ended up hopping off and walking through a quiet residential neighborhood before finally reaching the waterfront. Luckily for my daughter, we stumbled upon another playground, where she happily played for almost an hour.

The Adriatic Sea and the Orange Glow

That day, the wind was blowing fiercely, yet the sun cast a warm orange glow beneath the bluest sky. Lots of people were out exercising or simply strolling along the promenade. Just like in Bari Vecchia, I love how our photos turned out here—bright, vibrant, and beautifully lit by the soft Mediterranean sunlight.

Alberobello

The Infamous Rione Monti

Okay, I admit it! the reason I visited Alberobello was because of the Instagram Reels I kept watching. The town looked incredibly unique with its cone-shaped roofs and stone walls.

In fact, I'm just one of the thousands of visitors drawn here by its growing popularity on social media. As a result, getting there by public transport can be quite a challenge.

We left Bari early in the morning and took a public bus from Bari Bus Station to Alberobello. By the time we arrived at the terminal, the queue was already long, even though the bus wasn't due to depart for another 30 minutes. As more and more people joined the line, the station staff eventually arranged an extra bus to accommodate the crowd. Thankfully, toddlers can ride for free and are allowed to have their own seat.

The journey took about an hour and a half, passing through toll roads lined with vast fields and endless rows of olive trees.

Once we arrived, there were hardly any signs pointing to the famous Rione Monti. We simply followed the crowd, which strangely scattered into different directions.

As I mentioned earlier, I came to Alberobello purely because of the Instagram Reels I had seen, so I hadn't done much research beforehand.

Lucky the streets still quiet

We were glad we arrived early and managed to beat the crowds. Just an hour later, the streets were packed with visitors, making it almost impossible to take a decent photo.

We wandered through the narrow streets and climbed a few staircases. Although we brought a stroller, getting around was surprisingly manageable—much easier than in Matera. Most of the houses have now been converted into souvenir shops, B&Bs, restaurants, and cafés.

The souvenirs sold at Alberobello

The houses, which the locals call Trulli, looked tiny from the outside. At first, I assumed each cone-shaped roof represented a single house. In reality, one cone can represent just one room, while a single Trullo may consist of several connected cones.

If you look closely, you'll notice why the houses appear so small from the outside—the walls are incredibly thick. I was fascinated to learn that some are nearly one meter thick. They act as natural insulation, keeping the interiors cool during Puglia's scorching summers and warm throughout the winter.

You can easily explore the entire Rione Monti in half a day. We wandered through almost every street and alley, enjoyed a local espresso with a delicious traditional cake, and eventually found yet another playground on one of the hills, much to my daughter's delight.

Although it was already noon, the restaurant we wanted to try was still closed. It wouldn't open until 1 p.m., and we were too hungry to wait. Instead, we settled for a touristy restaurant that served, unfortunately, the worst pasta we had during our entire Italy trip—and charged an outrageous coperto. A coperto is a small cover charge per person at Italian restaurants for the table setting, bread, and use of the dining space. It's a standard fee and is separate from tipping.

a Playground with a view

After lunch, we walked back to the bus terminal for our return journey to Bari. It was only half past one in the afternoon, yet the queue was already incredibly long—and to make matters worse, there was no clear line to follow. When the bus finally arrived (right on schedule, with departures every hour), the queue completely fell apart. Everyone rushed toward the door, turning the boarding process into total chaos.

Fortunately, we managed to get on the bus, but many people were left behind. It made me wonder what the situation must be like during the peak summer season when even more tourists flock to Alberobello. Hopefully, additional buses are added to meet the demand.

At the end of the day, our curiosity sparked by countless Instagram Reels was finally satisfied.

Still, I walked away with mixed feelings.

Maybe it was because Alberobello was the first place during our Italy trip where we truly felt caught in a tourist trap. Or maybe it was simply because the village is so small that, despite its undeniable charm, it didn't quite justify the long queues and the struggle of getting there by public transport.

It's beautiful, but social media set my expectations too high.

Polignano o Mare

The Infamous Lama Monachile

Our next adventure took us to another side of Puglia. We hopped on a train from Bari to Polignano a Mare, a seaside town perched on limestone cliffs that have been carved by the Adriatic Sea over thousands of years.

The moment the cliffs came into view, we finally understood why Polignano a Mare appears on almost every Puglia travel guide. Whitewashed houses line the cliffs, overlooking the turquoise sea, while its iconic beach, Lama Monachile, is tucked dramatically between the towering rocks.

To reach the beach, we pushed our stroller through a tunnel before parking it nearby and spending some time playing by the shore.

The waves were surprisingly strong that day. Some tourists bravely stepped into the cave for photos, only to be soaked by the crashing waves. Meanwhile, my daughter was perfectly content throwing pebbles into the sea, and we left just before the beach became crowded.

Afterward, we wandered into the old town. Had it not been for the stream of people heading through the grand Arco Marchesale, we might never have realized that a charming medieval town was hidden behind its walls. Once, this gate served as the town's only entrance.

Stepping through the gate felt like entering a different world. Narrow alleys weave between white limestone buildings adorned with flower-filled balconies, reminding us once again that we were in Puglia, a region known for its distinctive architecture. As we continued exploring, nearly every winding street seemed to lead us to a balcony overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It didn't feel like a medieval town at all. Instead, it felt unmistakably Mediterranean, with just a hint of Greece.

View from one of the Terrace

While the beach is undeniably beautiful, it also feels quite touristy. The old town, on the other hand, offers a completely different atmosphere. It feels like the kind of place where you escape the chaos of city life—a place to slow down, breathe, and perhaps even settle down someday, falling asleep each night to the sound of waves crashing against the cliffs.

their sky ornaments

We wandered aimlessly through the old town and eventually found ourselves lingering on the terraces overlooking the cliffs, quietly admiring the Adriatic Sea.

A strong sea breeze carried the irresistible aroma of food from the nearby restaurants. At several terraces, local musicians were performing acoustic songs. I didn't recognize the language—or even the songs. Perhaps one of them was Volare, as Polignano a Mare is the birthplace of the legendary Domenico Modugno.

the Hopelessly Romantic Couple

Whatever they were singing, it didn't really matter. The atmospher is always bring us back to the intro scene in a romantic commedy movie. Where two people runaway from their day time job to Polignano and pursuing their dream of become a chef and an artist. They then falling in love after spending days talking about their life while looking at the turqouise water of Adriatic Sea. Yes, what I remember most is how romantic that afternoon felt.

Perhaps that's why Polignano a Mare has become one of the most unforgettable places we've ever visited.

Monopoli

The Typical Narrow Alley at Monopoli

Right after our hopelessly romantic afternoon in Polignano a Mare, we continued our adventure to the next town: Monopoli.

To be honest, I had never realized Monopoli was the name of a town. I had always thought it was only the name of the famous board game. As it turns out, the two are completely unrelated.

Monopoli is just one train stop, or about a ten-minute ride, from Polignano a Mare. Just like in Polignano, there were no signs directing visitors from the station to the old town, so we simply followed the few people walking in the same direction.

Earlier that morning, we had packed lunch boxes and decided to enjoy them at a nearby park with a large playground. My daughter spent a long time playing there and refused to leave, mostly because the playground had a small swing carousel. She happily played alongside local children, who had probably just come from the nearby church.

One thing I really loved about playgrounds in Italy was how naturally children blended in with one another. Even though they didn't speak the same language, they shared the same laughter and joy. Meanwhile, the parents rarely hovered around or watched the unfamiliar children too closely. It all felt surprisingly relaxed.

After spending almost fifteen minutes persuading my daughter that it was finally time to leave, we continued our walk to the old town.

Although Polignano a Mare and Monopoli are only ten minutes apart by train, they have completely different atmospheres. Monopoli feels larger and livelier, though nowhere near as hectic as Naples. Since we visited on a Sunday, we stumbled upon a small pop-up market in one of the piazzas.

The typical restaurant with its view

Like Bari and Polignano a Mare, Monopoli is filled with whitewashed buildings and narrow alleys. Brightly painted doors add cheerful splashes of color against the blue Adriatic Sea, giving the town its unmistakable Mediterranean charm.

We wandered through the maze of alleys, and by mid-afternoon more tourists had arrived while most restaurants had finally opened. We decided to try a local gelato simply because its sign claimed it was "one of the oldest gelaterias in town." Unfortunately, it turned out to be rather disappointing.

The old town felt lively—not overwhelmingly crowded, but busy enough that we could hear restaurant owners cheerfully calling out to passing visitors. Some sandwich shops even had long queues, probably because they offered quick takeaway meals.

In the middle of all the excitement, my daughter accidentally wandered toward an empty outdoor table and knocked over a wine glass. She was startled and looked terrified. To our surprise, the restaurant owner wasn't upset at all. He smiled, assured us that everything was fine, and refused to let us pay for the broken glass. We were incredibly grateful for his kindness.

By then, our packed lunch no longer seemed enough, so we decided to have a proper lunch at a restaurant near the harbor. I can't remember its name, but it was packed with local families enjoying Sunday lunch together. I wasn't sure whether it was simply a Sunday tradition or part of the Easter celebration.

Once again, we ordered pasta and finished every last bite. It was delicious. My daughter had another plate of orecchiette, which was every bit as good as the one we had enjoyed in Matera. Although the restaurant looked quite elegant, the bill was almost the same as what we had paid in Alberobello. Sorry, Alberobello—you still owe us a better meal!

The Gate to the Harbor

After lunch, we continued walking toward the harbor and the castle gate. By then, however, we were simply too tired to explore any further. Instead, we slowly made our way back to the train station, taking a different route through town.

At first glance, the old towns of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare felt remarkably similar. Perhaps if I looked back at our photos years from now, it would be difficult to remember which town I was looking at. The biggest difference lies in their personalities. People remember Polignano for its dramatic limestone cliffs, while Monopoli is remembered for its relaxed Mediterranean lifestyle and its charming harbor.

That doesn't mean visiting both towns is redundant. Quite the opposite—they each offer a different experience. In fact, many travelers choose Monopoli as their base for exploring the rest of Puglia. Coincidentally, I met one of them at the station: an Indonesian living in Germany who had decided to spend a week in Monopoli while exploring the surrounding towns.

at the Harbor with their famous blue boat

That evening, we returned to Bari Centrale and had Thai food for dinner once again. My daughter was completely exhausted. She finished her dinner, took a bath, and fell asleep almost immediately. Meanwhile, we packed our bags because we had to leave Bari early the next morning.

Before we left, our host gave my daughter a huge Easter chocolate. I later learned that giving chocolate treats to children is an Easter tradition in Italy. Throughout our trip, I noticed supermarkets selling enormous chocolate eggs filled with toys. I really wanted to buy one, but unfortunately there was simply no room left in our luggage.

Milan

Us, infront of Duomo

Funny enough, this was our third time visiting Milan, and every single visit had been nothing more than a transit stop. This time was no different. We had an overnight stay and booked a room at a Best Western near Milano Centrale. At first, I thought it was the same hotel we had stayed at a few years earlier, but I was mistaken.

When we arrived, Milan was surprisingly hot. The temperature was only around 24°C, yet it felt much warmer than that. The hotel room supposedly had air conditioning, but no matter how we adjusted the settings, it only blew warm air.

Despite the heat, we decided to take a short stroll to the Duomo and do a little souvenir shopping. My husband and daughter, however, were too tired to stay out for long, so we headed back to the hotel earlier than planned.

Oh, and before that, I almost got scammed in Piazza del Duomo.

Like any typical tourist, we stopped to take photos in front of the magnificent cathedral. The piazza was full of pigeons, and my daughter happily ran after them with other children. Suddenly, a man approached me and placed a handful of corn in my hand before I even realized what was happening. Without thinking much, I handed it to my daughter so she could feed the pigeons while we took a few photos.

Only afterward did the man demand €10 for that small handful of dried corn.

Both my husband and I immediately refused. A heated argument followed. I was willing to give him €2 just to end the situation (although we didn't even have any cash left). He insisted that we walk to the nearest ATM to withdraw the money.

Thankfully, a kind passerby overheard the argument and stepped in to help us. She confronted the man and even threatened to call the police, saying what he was doing was extortion. As soon as he realized someone was standing up for us, he quickly walked away.

That unexpected encounter became one of the most memorable moments of our time in Milan.

Before the Scam Realization

Other than that, we didn't do much in the city. We were simply too exhausted after more than two weeks of traveling. I wandered off for a bit of souvenir shopping while my husband and daughter rested at the hotel. The next morning, we took a shuttle bus to Malpensa Airport.

Although we were physically exhausted, I found myself already planning another Euro trip while sitting on that bus to the airport. It wasn't only because of the breathtaking places we had visited, but also because of the people we met along the way. Time and time again, we experienced unexpected kindness, especially toward our toddler.

In a world where parents often feel judged whenever they travel with young children, I somehow felt completely at ease bringing my daughter around Europe. Perhaps it was the abundance of child-friendly facilities, or perhaps it was simply the patience and understanding people showed us throughout the journey.

In the end, we didn't fall in love with Europe because of its landmarks, we fell in love with the people we met and the little moments we almost overlooked.

What We Learned from Traveling Around Italy with a Toddler

Traveling around Italy and Slovenia with a toddler turned out to be much easier than we had imagined. Looking back, these are a few things that made our journey smoother and more enjoyable.

Bring a stroller. It becomes a safe space whenever your toddler feels tired, overwhelmed, or simply needs a quick nap. Even our compact Babyzen YOYO, with its relatively small wheels, handled Italy's cobblestone streets surprisingly well. If your itinerary includes lots of stairs or hiking trails, however, it's better to leave the stroller at your hotel or at a luggage storage facility.

Stay flexible with your itinerary. We constantly adjusted our plans depending on our daughter's mood and energy level. Avoid scheduling trains too early in the morning whenever possible, as starting the day in a rush can affect everyone's mood. During our trip, we rarely left before 9 a.m., except on the day we had to catch the long train from Bari to Milan.

Food is generally toddler-friendly in Italy. Pasta is almost always a safe choice, especially simple tomato pasta, which rarely failed us. We also preferred accommodations with a small kitchen so we could prepare meals and snacks in advance. Packing a lunch box each morning saved both time and money.

Let your child be a child. We tried to spend at least an hour each day at a playground whenever we found one. Our trip wasn't designed solely to entertain our daughter—it was about enjoying the journey together as a family.

If you're traveling by train, consider getting a Eurail Pass. Children under 11 can travel for free when accompanied by an adult, making it excellent value for families. European trains are also very stroller-friendly, with designated spaces where you don't have to fold your stroller. Many buses offer similar facilities as well.

Travel light whenever possible. If that's not an option, luggage storage services can be lifesavers. Apps like Bounce are widely available across Europe, and many train stations also provide traditional luggage storage facilities. Keep in mind that even modern hotels sometimes have stairs leading to the elevator, so every kilogram you carry makes a difference.

Check your hotel's child policy before booking. Many hotels begin charging for children over the age of two because they require a separate bed. The room rate may be higher, although children are often exempt from the local tourist tax.

Bring basic medicines from home. In many European countries, children's medication isn't as readily available over the counter as it is in some parts of Asia. Depending on the medication, you may need a doctor's prescription first. We found it much easier to pack essentials such as paracetamol, allergy medicine, vitamins, and any other medications our daughter might need.

Don't expect an elaborate hotel breakfast. Most hotel breakfasts we encountered consisted of bread, eggs, coffee, tea, cheese, and cold cuts. While it was perfectly adequate, we often found ourselves craving the wider variety we're used to in Asia. Packing extra snacks for the day turned out to be a great decision.

I'm sure I'll think of a few more lessons after this trip—but perhaps those can wait until our next adventure.

Our favorite photo from Matera

Eurotrip with a Toddler (Part III) ; Tuscany at a Slower Pace

2026-05-26T10:34:15.459-07:00

Us, at Piazza del Campo- Siena

It was our 9th day out of a total 18-day Euro trip. We were already halfway through the journey and, of course, a bit tired when we arrived at Firenze Santa Maria Novella (SMN). We departed from Ljubljana at 9:00 a.m. and arrived in Florence at 7:00 p.m.

To make things more exhausting, the train was fully packed from Venice all the way to Florence (long weekend!). On top of that, we made the mistake of booking our hotel too far from the station while carrying all our luggage.

From the station, we walked about 1 kilometer, crossing the bridge at sunset (which, to be fair, was a beautiful sight).

Sunset at the bridge

When we finally arrived at the aparthotel, we found out that we had to pay an additional fee for a single bed for our daughter. We booked the place via an OTA and had already included her in the guest count along with her age. Apparently, there is a regulation requiring hotels to provide a separate bed for guests older than 3 years old. One double bed — even a king bed is not considered sufficient.

We hit the pillow early after dinner. Unfortunately, there was a café nearby blasting loud music until 11:00 p.m. We were exhausted, both mentally and physically and woke up very late at the next day.

Florence

Ponte Vecchio view from the Piazzale

The beauty of Florence has traveled through centuries and across continents. A place where Michelangelo was raised and shaped into one of the greatest artists. Florence is also the birthplace of the European Renaissance itself. Being there, felt like going on an art pilgrimage, where every corner of the city, every building, sculpture, and fresco became a living classroom.

But that day, we woke up very late. My daughter still had a runny nose, and our bodies were still sore from the journey. We dragged ourselves to the next restaurant in the alley recommended by the hotel, only to realize it was still 11:00 a.m. No ristorante, osteria, or pizzeria had opened yet. We ended up having falafel for brunch at a nearby Turkish shop.

Earlier, we hadn’t planned our day at all, so we spontaneously decided to hop on a bus to Piazzale Michelangelo. We used our Mastercard/Visa to pay for the fare, just like we did in Milan.

Actually, there are several ways to reach the piazzale, either by hiking or by taking the bus. Of course, we chose the easiest way. The piazzale itself is a modern terrace built as a panoramic viewpoint overlooking Florence. Dedicated to Michelangelo, it features several replicas of his sculptures, including the infamous David.

When we arrived, the sky was misty and cloudy, yet it couldn’t diminish the grandeur of Florence’s landscape. It felt like looking at the abstract of a history journal. We could see almost all of Florence’s important (and magnificent) landmarks at once. I guess if you only have one day in Florence, this place is an absolute must-visit.

the Cathedral

First, we noticed the magnificent cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. Its white-striped facade stood out grandly, crowned by the iconic brown dome among the sea of yellow-brown buildings. The view was postcard-perfect, the kind that made me realize, “Ah, this is exactly where people should take a picture when they’re in Florence.”

Then, almost as imposing beside it, stood the Basilica of Santa Croce. The dark brown building with pointed arches and one of the tallest bell towers in the skyline.

We also marveled at the Arno River. The river acts as the artery of the city, with the main attraction being Ponte Vecchio — the unique bridge that looks like a row of tiny houses crossing the water.

And of course, we couldn’t forget to take pictures with the replica of Michelangelo’s David. Unfortunately, we forgot to bring a tripod, so we didn’t manage to get any decent selfie photos while we were there.

The Rose Garden

Satisfied, we suddenly felt brave enough to walk down back into the city. I held my baby girl’s hand while my husband carried the stroller down what felt like thousands of steps.

But it was absolutely worth it (and work out)!

We stopped countless times to take photos along the way. There was even a small rose garden that, despite the flowers not having fully bloomed yet, was already beautiful. As we descended, we also got to admire the cathedral’s dome from many different angles, each view somehow more magical than the last.

Ponte Vecchio from the street view

We arrived at the Arno River about half an hour later and decided to unfold the stroller. From there, we walked along the riverside, strolling through the old town. We checked Piazza Della Signora, a grand medieval square dominated by Palazzo Vecchio, where iconic Renaissance statues are displayed across the piazza like an open-air sculpture museum. There are statues of Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseus with the Head of Medusa, the Fountain of Neptune by Bartolomeo Ammannati and the equestrian statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici by Giambologna.

Not before the sunset, we ended up at the infamous bookstore, Giunti Odeon. Yes, it is the same place where the Korean drama Can This Love Be Translated? was filmed.

Giunti Odeon

We browsed through some books. I bought several books written by Italian authors recommended by the shopkeeper, while my daughter picked out an Italian sticker book for herself.

Since we hadn’t really done any shopping during the trip aside from buying necessities, we took the opportunity to browse around for toys, jackets, and souvenirs. But then the rain came. Even though we had brought umbrellas, we still ended up completely soaked.

I think that was also one of the reasons we couldn’t fully enjoy Florence despite staying there for three days. The old town is huge, yet it isn’t entirely car-free. The streets and alleys are narrow, often only wide enough for a single car, but they were still packed with traffic. Buses, motorbikes, and cars all squeezed through the streets with constant noise, on top of the overwhelming number of tourists. Florence is incredibly popular, so it’s no surprise the city was already crowded even before summer began.

Because the streets were so narrow, the pedestrian paths were also very limited. The cobblestones were uneven, with holes and rough patches everywhere. Navigating a stroller in the streets was quite a work out. There also seemed to be construction and maintenance projects on many corners.

Perhaps it was the rain, the exhaustion, and the overwhelming crowd, but Florence slowly began to feel more chaotic than charming.

When we checked out two days later, we decided to take a taxi : a minivan, since we were carrying luggage and a stroller from the hotel to the train station. Even though the distance was only about one kilometer, the ride took almost half an hour because of the traffic jam.

In silent, I make a wish, I hope we can visit Florence next time in a better perspective.

SIENA

the Bell tower at Piazza del Campo

Back in Indonesia, while planning our Eurotrip, we initially thought of focusing more on Tuscany rather than the Naples area so we could spare some time to visit the Puglia region. With that in mind, the Tuscany part of the trip was supposed to be more packed — but reality turned out differently.

At first, we planned to visit Siena, Lucca, and San Gimignano, all of which are accessible by public transport. Yet, we were still recovering. Traveling with a toddler means constantly adjusting and readjusting the itinerary, keeping things as simple as possible to maintain everyone’s health and mood. In the end, we were only able to do a day trip from Florence to Siena.

We took a public bus from the stop in front of Boboli Gardens and arrived in Siena about an hour later. The bus was almost empty, with fewer than ten passengers on board, and it took the toll road route. We had been looking forward to seeing the rolling scenic landscape that defines the Tuscan hills along the way, but surprisingly, we did not see much of it.

Typical street in Siena

When we arrived in Siena, it was still only 10:30 AM, yet the streets already felt almost deserted. There were barely any signs of local activity, only a few tourists wandering through the small alleys. We walked past rows of earthy brown buildings, most of them operating as little shops, but still, there were not many people around. It felt as if I had stepped through a portal into a medieval era; being surrounded by warm-toned stone buildings that seemed untouched by modern time. No, it was not as time had completely stopped there, but for a moment, I truly felt like Claire from Outlander — as if I had accidentally traveled back in time.

Stairs to reach the Piazza

Moreover, the cold wind blew strongly through the streets, creating an echo that sounded as if it were passing through hidden tunnels, adding even more melancholy and loneliness to the atmosphere.

Since Siena lies across a hilly landscape, we found ourselves doing little hikes here and there. To reach Piazza del Campo — one of the most beautiful piazzas I have ever seen , we had to descend from the main street. On the other hand, reaching Duomo di Siena required us to walk uphill again.

After having brunch at a small local café, which I suspected served instant pasta but still had quite a long queue because it was one of the few affordable places open at the time, we spent most of our day at the piazza. We took countless photos while my baby girl ran around happily against the cold wind, long before the crowd finally began to arrive.

Facade of Siena Cathedral

The sun was shining brightly, so many people decided to sit and have little picnics around Piazza del Campo. Meanwhile, we wandered through the streets to shop for souvenirs before eventually making our way to Duomo di Siena.

The cathedral shares a similar color palette with Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, using white marble with geometric decorative patterns across its facade. At first glance, they almost look alike, yet Siena’s cathedral feels more dramatic and ornate. It looks grand and bourgeois, filled with statues that add an almost fantasy-like atmosphere to the building.

Then, while sitting on the cathedral stairs, somehow reminding me of a scene from Can This Love Be Translated? I started reading about the history of the Siena Duomo.

Sitting on the stairs of Duomo

Duomo di Siena was originally planned to become one of the largest and most magnificent cathedrals in Europe, reflecting the wealth and ambition of medieval Siena. However, the Black Death of 1348 devastated the city, killing much of its population and abruptly stopping both the cathedral’s expansion and Siena’s development, leaving behind unfinished structures that still give Siena its remarkably strong medieval atmosphere today.

Facciatone : the Unfinished structure of the duomo

Yes, I think I finally understood why this city feels so contemplative and authentic. Built across a series of Tuscan hills, Siena was once one of the richest and most influential cities in Italy, thriving through trade, banking, and its strategic location along important pilgrimage routes. By the 13th and early 14th centuries, Siena flourished both artistically and economically, competing closely with Florence in power and ambition. But the Black Death abruptly ended this golden age, devastating the population and halting the city’s expansion, ultimately preserving much of Siena’s medieval character that still defines it today.

We truly loved Siena. It easily earned a place among the most beautiful cities I have ever visited. Its atmosphere and Italian Gothic architecture gave me chills both literally and metaphorically.

Naples

Mount Vesuvius overlooking Naples Bay

When we arrived at Napoli Centrale, a very different ambience greeted us right away. Not only was the station huge and modernised, but the moment we stepped outside and were welcomed by rows of restaurants, it felt like we had entered the real world — not the postcard-perfect image of Italian cities.

We stayed there overnight before continuing our journey to the Puglia region the next day. Of course, we tried to optimise our limited time to explore the city.

Our first “chaotic” moment happened when we wanted to explore the bay area. The Tap & Go system worked at the metro ticket reader in Garibaldi Station, but then we realised we were on the wrong platform and decided to exit. We tapped again, only to find there was no reader at the exit gate — just a validator machine, so we tapped there instead. At the end of the day, I checked my card and it worked fine, but my husband was charged the maximum fare even though he had tapped too.

The same thing happened with the bus system. We decided to buy tickets through the application, but when we boarded the bus, there was no reader for our QR codes. I noticed other tourists looked confused as well, while the locals did not even bother tapping. For a moment, I felt like I was cheating.

Basilica Reale Pontificia San Francesco da Paola at the Piazza del Plabiscito

We walked from the Galleria Umberto area down to Piazza del Plebiscito while navigating a stroller along the uneven cobblestone pavement. The piazza brought us back to the reality that we were indeed in Italy, mesmerised by the beautiful neoclassical basilica with its grand dome and colonnades.

It reminded us of the beauty of the Pantheon. Later, we learned that Neoclassical architecture was heavily inspired by ancient Roman and Greek architecture, the very same style seen in the Pantheon.

Wow, that was quite an unexpected architecture lecture for me!

at the Naples Bay with Mount Vesuvius at the background

Not far from the piazza, we were greeted by a dark mountain looming over the Bay of Naples. Yes, it was the infamous Mount Vesuvius , the very same volcano that erupted in AD 79 and buried Pompeii beneath volcanic ash.

Fontana del Gigante

Many people walked along the bay coast, enjoying the afternoon sunset. Most were couples — walking hand in hand, some carrying buckets of flowers, while others occasionally stole kisses as they sat by the dock.

The view itself was magical. The deep blue sea blended with the blue sky, while yachts rested quietly along the bay and flocks of seagulls flew low, singing above the water. The strong cold wind did not discourage us, and we continued walking along the coast until we arrived at Castel dell’Ovo. Before reaching the castle, however, we came across a beautiful fountain — Fontana del Gigante.

We already knew beforehand that the castle was under maintenance, but the scenery before sunset alone was worth the walk.

Castel dell'ovo (top), Castle Sant'Elmo at Vomero Hills (below)

Behind the castle, there were many seafood restaurants, but unfortunately most of them only opened after 7:30 P.M., which was impossible for us since we were travelling with our toddler. I think that was also the reason why we rarely dined out for dinner in Italy. Most restaurants started their dinner service too late for our toddler, who needed to hit the pillow no later than 8:00 P.M. We preferred either cooking dinner ourselves or getting takeaway instead.

Since we only had limited time, we had to decide which area to visit: the city centre or the Vomero hill area. In the end, our curiosity and hunger — won, so we stayed in the city centre and skipped the infamous Vomero funicular.

Then came the next surprising part. Just like the area outside Napoli Centrale, the city centre and old town also carried the energy of a sporadically developed city , something rather unexpected for a European city.

The narrow, dark, and lonely alleys sharply contrasted with the main streets, which were incredibly lively, crowded, and chaotic.

People walked on the roads because the sidewalks were filled with garbage and street vendor’s goods, while cars and motorcycles honked aggressively to clear their way. It felt so chaotic that I had to double-check where I actually was; Italy or Hong Kong?

Typical alleys at Naples

We walked through crowded streets while browsing for takeaway restaurants, only to suddenly find ourselves entering residential alleys that were dark, muddy, covered in graffiti, and unexpectedly quiet.

For the first time ever in Italy, I clutched my bag tightly, checked on my daughter in the stroller countless times, and silently prayed that we would not get mugged.

Eventually, we returned to the Centrale area and ended up ordering Turkish food for dinner once again. I know we should have tried the Neapolitan food that is famous around the world, but in the end, we chose to dine somewhere close to our hotel.

That night, we felt tired, thrilled, and somehow dumbfounded all at once. It was such a different experience compared to our previous journeys. I know it sounds silly to admit being scared, yet I guess travelling with my daughter triggered a very different kind of fear than when it was just me and my husband.

Still, I completely understand why so many people fall in love with Naples.

Because Naples feels genuine and alive.

One moment, we were mesmerised by the sea breeze along the Bay of Naples; the next, we were back in our small apartment, staring at hanging laundry swaying beside the exhaust of an AC unit.

Perhaps that is the most honest portrait of 21st-century humanity.

The next day, we continued our journey to what would become the most beautiful place we had ever visited.

Yet somehow, we still wish to return to Naples someday — to enjoy the food, explore more of the region, and of course, finally visit the Vomero hills.

How can I say it? Though Naples is not the most beautiful place we ever visited, it was one of the place that impactful to us. Eventually, what is a journey if it is not give us a lingering feeling, right?

I will continue the journey in the next post. Meanwhile, if you have not read the prequel to this story, feel free to click the link below.

Part I

Part II

Euro Trip with a Toddler- Slovenia! (Part II)

2026-05-12T10:04:00.000-07:00

the Majestic Lake Bohinj

Depart from Verona, we were doing a bit cross-country to Slovenia on the 6th day of our Eurotrip.

Basically, traveling with a child means being very lax with the schedule. Waking up late, going places in the afternoon, and retiring for the night too early. Plus, whenever and wherever we saw a playground, we had to stop for at least 30 minutes, if possible.

It was a very different experience for us compared to our previous itineraries during our pre-baby days. Across 18 days of Eurotrip, we usually spent at least 2 nights minimum if we wanted to explore a city properly, while 1-night stays meant we were just transiting and only had several hours for dinner and breakfast.

We chose minimum 3-star hotels only because we wanted our daughter to have more space to roam around the room, and the hotel had to be located within 1 km from the central station. It was because we brought luggage and a stroller and didn’t want to spend money or energy on unnecessary trips. Yes, the consequence was more expensive hotel rooms. But trust me, it was cheaper than spending money on taxis.

Since we wanted to explore Ljubljana the most, we spent 3 nights there. We took a FlixBus near Verona Porta Nuova and spent 6 hours on the road to reach Ljubljana. The trip mostly passed through toll roads, stopping briefly in Venice and Udine. Amazingly, while we were on the bus, it rained all the way from Verona to Ljubljana. Later, we heard that during the same time, there was a snowstorm in most northern parts of Slovenia.

Ljubjana-Slovenia

Dragon Bridge in the background

If I am being honest, our next destination was our second most favorite place during this year’s Eurotrip. It was our first visit, and our main reason was the infamous Lake Bled. Previously, I saw a video of a tiny island in the middle of the calm Lake Bled and instantly put it on my wishlist.

When we arrived at Ljubljana Central Bus Station, it was already late afternoon. We were hungry and wanted to pee very badly. We thought there would be a brief stop at a rest area (usually FlixBus did that—maybe for other destinations).

Before that, how did my daughter thrive during a six-hour bus ride? Actually, it was her first time on a bus ride that long. She handled long train rides and flights just fine, but she’s a very active girl, so I was a bit anxious since the bus legroom wasn’t really spacious.

My formula is still the same, informing our next schedule to her at the previous day. I kept informing her about the bus trip, how long it would take, and what her schedule would be like. Thankfully, she was very obedient that time. She spent the ride snacking, having lunch, and then sleeping until we arrived in Ljubljana. A small blessing for me.

Then we arrived in Ljubljana and decided to try a Thai restaurant just across the station. Gratefully, the chef was an Indonesian living in Ljubljana. What a coincidence — or if I must say, something really magical, since I believe not many Indonesians live there. And the funnier thing was, there was also another Indonesian family (though they had already moved to Australia) having lunch there. It was such a funny coincidence. Anyway, the food was delicious. It was authentic Asian food!

We stayed at an Airbnb near the station. There was also a Lidl nearby, and we instantly knew it was time to cook rice for dinner! Actually, during our 3-day stay, we cooked dinner at the apartment, so we didn’t really have time to enjoy much local food. Yes, it was a shame, but our schedule was so packed.

Our second day in Ljubljana was spent exploring the city. We walked again to the Dragon Bridge area, which connects to the old town. Our first destination was Ljubljana Castle. Actually, visiting castles in Europe is one of my favorite things to do. I love reading about the history and, moreover, enjoying the view from the castle. As you know, castles were usually built at the highest point of the city for defense and visibility advantages.

We took a funicular to the castle. Since we arrived early, it was almost empty and there was no queue. We brought a stroller, though it wasn’t really necessary inside the castle. We used it later while exploring the city. There was an elevator in the castle, but we still needed to take the stairs to reach the watchtower.

The castle has been heavily renovated after surviving wars, fires, neglect, military use, prison conversion, and finally modernization. That’s why it feels very different compared to castles in other countries — more curated, modern, and less medieval. It’s probably also why not many people highly recommend visiting the castle.

View from the Castle

But actually, if you miss visiting the castle, you miss out on one of the most beautiful views in the city. From there, we could see one of the best Alpine city views — the Julian Alps as a backdrop, with rows of red roofs stretching along the streets below the castle.

From the castle, we decided to have lunch then strolled around the old town and felt the atmosphere was somewhat like Prague, but less crowded. What I mean is not that the buildings were as Gothic as Prague’s, but rather that the city had a more fairy-tale-like atmosphere.

Speaking of the buildings, I am no expert, but I felt they looked much closer to Austrian cities like Salzburg. Later, I found out it was because Slovenia had been part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for centuries. Although a major earthquake in 1895 damaged most parts of the city, Ljubljana was rebuilt afterward. That is why the city now has such a mix of architectural styles.

The Triple Bridge

Then, we decided to explore the city from the river’s perspective. We felt that the Ljubljanica River was the main artery of the city, and it would be exciting to see Ljubljana from that point of view.

We took a boat and spent about 45 minutes sailing through the river, passing Triple Bridge, Dragon Bridge, Butchers' Bridge, gardens, and finally the outskirts of the city where houses with riverfront views lined the banks.

Actually, I was expecting the journey to be much longer, like in Stockholm. But silly me — comparing a river to the sea.

a very cold ride

Moreover, we felt that Ljubljana was much colder during those days, and the boat ride became a bit challenging because the wind picked up heavily. We wrapped ourselves in blankets, but it was still quite chilly, so I decided to move into the cabin afterward.

But just as we thought, although it looked like a very touristy thing to do, the boat ride offered a beautiful perspective of Ljubljana from the river.

The Franciscan Chuch of the Annunciation

Then, we decided to look for a playground since we didn’t see any near the Airbnb or the old town. There was a playground inside a school area, but unfortunately we couldn’t enter it. We walked around 1.5 km to Tivoli City Park and found a very big and almost empty playground. My daughter spent more than an hour playing there while we rested for a bit.

The next day, we woke up early and joined a tour to Triglav National Park. Beforehand, we checked that taking a bus to Lake Bled would not cost much less than joining a tour. So we reserved one via Klook and rode in a minivan with five other people.

Our itinerary was originally centered around the Kranjska Gora area. Unfortunately, there was a big competition happening there, and if we insisted on going, we would have faced heavy traffic and huge crowds. So instead, we made a detour to visit another part of Triglav National Park — and yes, it was absolutely beautiful.

Maybe because the tour leader felt guilty about changing the itinerary, our schedule became packed: Vogel Ski Resort, Lake Bohinj, Lake Bled, Bled Castle, and finally Radovljica.

The trip from Ljubljana to the Vogel cable car was only around 75 minutes long, but it felt like entering an entirely different universe. After passing Lake Bled, the road wound through dense forests, tiny alpine villages with old churches standing on higher ground overlooking the green valley, and of course, mountain backdrops everywhere.

a small church along the way

Honestly, it gave the feeling of stepping into the world of Van Helsing, not in a horror way! but in a mystical, Eastern European folklore kind of atmosphere. Adding to the magical feeling, the guide told us the fairy tale of Zlatorog, a mystical white mountain goat with golden horns.

View from the Cable Car

After passing Lake Bohinj, we finally arrived at the station of Vogel Ski Resort. Again, I did not have any expectations since I had never even heard about it before. However, once we ascended from around 570 meters to 1,535 meters above sea level, we entered yet another universe! Slowly, Lake Bohinj disappeared behind the dense forests below, while an entire Alpine world began surrounding the cable car.

Vogel

The snow was abundant and fluffy. Of course, it wasn’t artificial snow! The guide said there would be a large crowd in the ski area since it was the last weekend for skiing, but no, it was not crowded at all. Maybe for citizens of a city with a population of 300,000 people, her definition of “crowded” is a little bit different from mine.

One of our favorite photo

We were only given 60 minutes to explore the area, so my husband and I decided to divide the tasks. I had brunch with my daughter at the small café in the cable car station while he explored the area, taking photos, and scouting the best viewpoint for us. Half an hour later, we switched roles. There was not much time to properly explore the area yet perhaps that was what made the scnenery ever more magical. We liked the surprise effect of the scenery’s transition. Just like in Alp de Suisi, we felt like we were enjoying spring and winter at the same time.

After descending the mountain by cable car, we continued our journey to Lake Bohinj — the most beautiful lake I had ever seen in my lifetime. It was a 10-minute ride from the cable car station.

When I got out of the car, the cold wind greeted us sharply. Yet the air was crisp and fresh. My lungs almost ached trying to take in all that freshness at once. We walked around the lake and saw the statue of Zlatorog before finally arriving to the shore.

There was a medieval church across the stone bridge overlooking the lake. I couldn’t take many angles because while I was busy taking pictures, my daughter decided to walk into the lake water :) She got wet from her shoes and socks to her trousers. Still, even without the distraction (or maybe it is just askill issue) my pictures didn’t do justice to the beauty of the church.

The lake was almost empty. Maybe it was too chilly, or maybe it is usually like that. But it added to the serene and magical ambience. The lake water was turquoise and crystal clear, shaped by Alpine glaciers (though Slovenia’s last glacier melted several years ago).

I wish I could paint this dreamy fantasy land. The Alpine background gave Switzerland vibes, yet the calmness and raw, untouched feeling were so different. I understood when people said this national park is a place where fairy tales are born. Additionally, it would not be surprising if we could see a fairy or two flying in the darkest night with the Milky Way in the background. If only I could save this feeling and memory in a Pensieve so I could revisit it whenever I needed to slow down in life.

a Dreamy Alps picture

Again, we had only less than an hour to explore the area. So I silently promised myself that I would come back to Lake Bohinj in the future.Soon after, we continued to my most anticipated place, Lake Bled.

From afar, the lake slowly emerged with a castle perched high above the hills and the Alps stretching behind it. Unlike Bohinj’s bright turquoise tones, Lake Bled shimmered in deep blue and emerald shades, almost like the sea.

the postcard perfect

Look at the Oarsman

Yet, the journey to the tiny island in the middle of the lake felt like it took forever. We shared the boat with 17 other people, and somehow the wind blew so strongly that the lake became much rougher than I expected. The pletna boat, a traditional wooden boat, was rowed by a single oarsman using two oars while standing, a technique that requires remarkable balance and strength. What made it even more fascinating was that the profession had been passed down through generations for centuries.

Us, in Lake Bled

The tiny island in the middle of the lake has been home to a Baroque church since the 9th century. We climbed the 99 stone stairs to reach the church. Surrounding the church were several viewpoints to enjoy the postcard-like scenery of Lake Bled. I sat near three sleeping ducks by the dock while quietly taking everything in. My ears, eyes, and even my lungs were enjoying the treat. The sound of water crashing gently against the stones, the chilly wind carrying impossibly fresh air, and of course the view that only several months ago I could only admire through my phone screen.

The view from the tiny island

After enjoying vegan gelato that was not really to my taste, we explored Lake Bled like any other tourists in the world: eating Bled cream cake while sitting by the lake.

While Lake Bohinj gave off an untouched and serene atmosphere, Lake Bled felt more modern and tourist-friendly, yet still undeniably beautiful.

Then, we arrived at our little detour to the sweetest and “honest” town in Slovenia, Radovljica. It is an organically preserved medieval town and also home to the biggest chocolate festival in Slovenia.

Josipina monument at Linhart Square. Radovljica

In contrast to the crowded Lake Bled, Radovljica felt like it had come straight out of a storybook. Small, compact, preserved, and quiet, with a front-row seat to the Alpen Karavanke. The main street was lined with cafés, local chocolate shops, and small family-owned restaurants. Behind the colorful medieval buildings stood residential houses. The contrast between the cozy little town and the grand mountain backdrop made the whole place feel warm, intimate, and almost unreal, as if everyday life there moved at a much slower pace.

Viewpoint in Radovljica

And just like many medieval towns, there was a small church, St. Peter’s Church, standing in the main square, feeling as though it was the very heart and landmark of the town.

Interior of St Peter's Church

We explored the main area for no less than an hour and were too tired to explore any further. Afterwards, we boarded the car and drove back to Ljubljana. Our journey finished around 6 p.m. that day.

We decided to return to our Airbnb and have dinner. We went to bed early because we needed to move to another city the next day.

Bonus : Transit at Trieste

Grand canal

Our next journey brought us to Florence, but before that, we had several hours of transit in Trieste to switch from a FlixBus to a train. We activated our Italy Pass that day to cover the trip.

As we arrived on the outskirts of Trieste, the sea suddenly emerged behind the hills. The bus followed a winding road down toward the city, with the deep blue sea stretching along our left side.

We left our luggage at the station and walked through the Grand Canal area. It was a Sunday around midday. Most of the shops along the route were closed, and the streets felt unusually quiet. But once we reached the canal and the square, it felt as though everyone in the city had gathered there.

Typical street at Trieste

Trieste is located near the border between Italy and Slovenia. The city has long been considered a melting pot of Italian, Slovenian, and Germanic cultures because it was once the most important seaport of the Austro-Hungarian Empire rather than part of Italy itself. That is why Trieste feels far more Central European than typically Italian.

Yet the photogenic Grand Canal reminded me a little of Venice. But do not imagine a long and winding canal like those in Venice. The Canal Grande was built in the 18th century mainly to allow small merchant ships to enter the city center and unload goods near the markets and warehouses. At that time, Trieste was rapidly growing as the empire’s main seaport.

The Square facing directly to the sea

Full of energy, we continued our walk toward Piazza Unità d'Italia, one of the largest sea-facing squares in Europe. The piazza felt grand yet strangely relaxed, framed by elegant Austro-Hungarian buildings with the Adriatic Sea opening wide before it. At the center stood the imposing city hall, while cafés spilled onto the square.

Illy was founded here in Trieste, and the city’s coffee culture was impossible to miss. So it was no surprise that the cafés were packed. We even had to put our names on a waiting list just to have lunch.

The City Hall at the Square

Afterward, we walked to the pier just in front of the square. We spent a while daydreaming alongside other locals—or at least people who looked like locals while watching ships pass in and out of the port.

But we could not stay there for long because the wind was blowing so fiercely that my daughter almost fell over. Interestingly, Trieste is famous for the “Bora,” a powerful cold wind that can become strong enough to push people while they are walking.

The sea, the hills and the building

We only stayed in Trieste for about four hours, which was nowhere near enough time to try the famous Trieste–Opicina Tramway or visit Miramare Castle, which we heard was beautiful. After lunch, we boarded a train to Venice before changing trains again for Florence.

My next post will continue our journey through the Tuscany region and down to Naples.

So far, we felt incredibly grateful to have visited Slovenia. It truly felt like an underrated gem. The accommodations were cheaper, as were the meals, and the calm atmosphere combined with its fairytale-like scenery made us feel as though we had discovered something special.

As for my toddler, since she is sensitive to cold weather, she started developing a runny nose while we were in Slovenia. I tried searching for allergy medicine for her in Trieste, only to discover that I needed a doctor’s prescription first. Since it was Sunday, I had no idea how to book a medical appointment there.

In the end, I only bought some vitamin D supplements that I had foolishly forgotten to bring from home. Thankfully, she felt much better once we reached Matera and the runny nose disappeared completely. So if you are traveling long-term with a toddler, do not forget to pack vitamins.

EUROtrip with a Toddler, Because Why Not? (Part I)

2026-05-08T05:18:00.000-07:00

The Super Beautiful Lake Bohinj

Eurotrip has always been my favorite traveling time, and the last time I went there was Autumn 2017! It's been more than 8 years! We planned to travel back in winter 2020, all was ready; tickets, visa, and hotel reservations, then COVID happened—two weeks before our trip. Talking about timing!

Then I came across a ticket promo from Jakarta to Milan (return) via Saudia. And just the previous year, I swore I would avoid Saudia if possible, simply because their departure time is inhuman for babies, toddlers, kids, and even for a middle-aged woman like me! But economic principles always win, so I purchased the ticket, barely batting an eye.

And yes, talking about timing! The war happened just three weeks before my departure. I felt like the Universe forced me to avoid Europe, but pardon me, everything was already booked, and we felt it was impossible that Jeddah would become a warzone (Saudia transits via Jeddah), so we packed our bags lazily just a day before departure.

When we made this trip, our daughter had just celebrated her 3rd year in this world. She is basically not a picky eater, but we were worried there would be limited choices for Muslim meals or rice in Europe. Hence, like any other Asians, we packed rice (lots of it) and a mini rice cooker just in case. And yes, it was the best decision we ever made.

Our trip spanned 18 days (including the flight time from and to Jakarta), and most of our destinations were in Italy, with the detailed itinerary as follows: Milan (1N) - Bolzano (2N) - Verona (1N) - Ljubljana (3N) - Florence (3N) - Naples (1N) - Matera (1N) - Bari (3N) - Milan (1N).

I will write down my trip (maybe) in 3 parts so that I have enough room to write a little bit in detail, but not too much to bore anyone. I feel this is very important for me to write because memories fade away, but I can remember the feeling by rereading my trip journal.

Preparation

Our luggages so far

We applied for a Schengen visa via Italy (obviously!) in January 2026 and got approved within only 3 working days. One of the fun things about bringing a toddler to Europe? The visa is free. I mean, I didn’t need to pay the visa fee at all, only the appointment fee (around IDR 300k+). From what I read, children under 6 years old are free, and those between 6–12 years old get a 50% discount. And yes, I’ll share later how many advantages there are when traveling with a child in Europe.

Funny thing is, we initially planned to apply via Austria. Our old itinerary (back in 2020) was mostly in Austria, and honestly, we were too lazy to recreate everything. But when we came to VFS Austria, they politely refused to process our application because our flight was landing in Italy, no matter how long we planned to stay in Austria. At least they refunded the appointment fee.

So, we went back to the drawing board, recreated the itinerary, and decided to just explore Italy. We had been there before, but only covered Milan and Venice. And once again, it turned out to be one of the best decisions we’ve ever made.

We traveled from mid-March to early April, expecting mostly spring weather. We knew Bolzano and Ljubljana would be colder than the other cities, but still, I didn’t prepare bulky jackets. Just a tweed coat and a few Heattech shirts.

But the “responsible mom” in me packed differently for my daughter. Down jackets, coats, Heattech sets, wool sweaters—you name it. I learned my lesson the hard way when she was 23 months old and we went to Hakodate in early May, only to be greeted by a freezing world. She was shivering, and I felt like a complete failure. I never want to feel that way again.

And yes, I also brought a mini rice cooker (the same one we used when she was under 2), some instant baby food from Japan, rice (lots of it) and a few packs of instant noodles.

For accommodation, we mostly booked hotels, preferably ones with a mini kitchen or at least a microwave. We only booked apartments in Ljubljana and Bari, mainly because we needed access to a washing machine. Since we’re light travelers, we didn’t want to bring too many non-essential items, especially clothes. In total, we had one large luggage, one medium luggage, a stroller, a backpack for my husband’s laptop (since he still had to work occasionally), and my hand-carry bag. Traveling by public transport made us even more determined to keep things minimal.

For transportation, we purchased a EURAIL Italy Pass for 3 travel days, mainly for long routes like Florence–Naples, Trieste–Florence, and Bari–Milan. Yes, it’s a bit pricey but again, children under 6 travel for free. So we paid for 2 passes and got 3, which meant our daughter had her own seat on the train.

And honestly, that’s a game changer. In some countries (like Japan), kids may travel for free, but they don’t get their own seat. Having that extra space, especially on long train rides, made a huge difference.

Europe, We are Coming!

Enjoying the playground

When we finally landed in Milan at 14:00, my heart burst with happiness. I didn’t realize how much I really, really missed Europe until we finally made it to the airport exit. Navigating the metro was relatively easy, just like in any other country. Train tickets can be purchased using a Visa or Mastercard by simply tapping it on the reader. But paranoid me, of course purchased the ticket beforehand.

We stayed at Scarletti Hotel Milan, about 400 meters from Milano Centrale. The hotel is strategically located near many halal restaurants, mostly owned by South Asian migrants. This meant a lot to us because we didn’t need to cook our rice, haha.

Our first night in Milan was spent just resting. We walked around and found a playground for our daughter, but we couldn’t stay long because too many people were smoking there. The real deal would start the next day; our trip to Bolzano.

view from our train window

The next day, we took the Frecciarossa train to Bolzano, with a transit in Verona. We left one large luggage at the station and continued the journey to Bolzano. The thing about traveling with an active toddler is that we don’t want to spend our energy bringing many things to many places.

The train ride from Verona to Bolzano was such a treat. We marveled at the lines of mountains from our glass windows. The weather was crisp, about 12 degrees Celsius. There were no vineyards in bloom yet, but the fields were already green. So far, no snow in sight.

Then we arrived in Bolzano and wow! It was just our second city in Italy, and it already exceeded our expectations!

Bolzano (2N)

Bolzano Piazza

Bolzano is the capital city of the South Tyrol region, a region famous for its Dolomites. Most people know that the Dolomites are a slightly cheaper option to enjoy the Alps compared to Austria or Switzerland.

When we stepped out of Bolzano Station, we walked directly into a huge park with a playground in it. There was a mall with modern architecture near the park, with a subtle appearance that did not feel too juxtaposed compared to the old buildings surrounding it. The park had huge trees forming something like a tunnel that led us to the piazza.

When we saw the piazza, we realized that this city was not a typical Italian city. I felt like I was in Austria. We walked further into the old town, bringing our luggage to our hotel. The old town was quite compact, and there were many bakeries selling apple strudel, pretzels, and of course coffee shops with the very Italian (outdoor and Illy logo).

the smaller street in Bolzano

Fun fact, most people in Bolzano are bilingual, speaking both German and Italian. This city was part of the Austria-Hungary Empire until it was handed over to Italy after World War I.

After checking in, we walked around again, bringing the stroller — yes, it is very stroller-friendly! There are sidewalks with marble floors along most of the main streets. Even on the cobblestone pathways, the stroller could still maneuver, though once in a while it got stuck between the stones. But never mind.

I think what I loved the most about Bolzano was the atmosphere. We noticed right away that this compact city felt like a permanent weekend getaway. The sky seemed bluer, and we could even smell cinnamon and freshly baked bread in the air. People walked casually with their dogs, never in a rush, and there were lots of bicycles everywhere. There were even many small children freely running around and riding bikes in the streets. Nobody seemed disturbed by it.

And the weather was not too cold, considering the city lies in the valley of the Alps. Of course, the bright pastel-colored buildings, flowery balconies, and the Alps standing proudly in the background made me want to move to this city immediately.

the Bright-colored building with its Balcony

The next day, we actually didn’t really have a concrete itinerary. Initially, we only wanted to ride the cable car near the station (Renon Cable Car / Funivia del Renon), but we noticed that it was under maintenance in March 2026. So we asked around, and several people recommended that we go to Alpe di Siusi instead.

At first, I was a bit conflicted because I thought it would be too far for our baby girl. It turned out to be only about an hour bus ride from the Bolzano bus terminal. But we went anyway, taking in the most breathtaking bus views along the way. The road was narrow and winding, and in some spots vehicles even had to take turns to pass. Deep down, I felt grateful we didn’t end up renting a car, because we hadn’t realized the terrain would be quite tricky.

We could simply tap our Visa or Mastercard on the card reader inside the bus, so there was no need to book anything in advance. There was also a small television screen announcing the next bus stop. Yes, it was an easy ride.

The Dolomites

Of course take a picture first

Trusting the application a little too much, we got lost at the Telfen bus stop. But wow, that small mistake led us to one of the most breathtaking, wallpaper-worthy views of the Dolomites. There were wide grass fields with tiny churches scattered around — exactly how you would imagine the Alps to look.

After taking tons of pictures, we waited at the bus stop for the next bus to take us directly to Compatsch. But it took forever, so we asked a bus driver for help. He informed us that we should go back to the previous bus stop and take the cable car to Alpe di Siusi instead. And you know what? The bus driver didn’t even charge us when he took us back to the previous stop.

Without further ado, we took the cable car — the longest one we had ever ridden — ascending up to Alpe di Siusi. It was a magical experience! At first, all we could see were green fields with lots of wild horses peacefully minding their own business, giving such strong spring vibes. Then, after passing one smaller mountain, the landscape suddenly changed into a winter wonderland. It felt like we had entered a completely different dimension and season. Unfortunately, the cable car windows were scratched and blurry, so it was impossible to take any decent videos.

first view

the next view

After we got off the cable car, we were pretty hungry and decided to have a lunch first then explore the areas. We walked about 500 meters and found a small restaurant with high rating. Actually, it is because there is a playground in the front of the restaurant, we decided to go there. But, hey it is turn out the best Risotto we ever tasted up until now!

When I say that Italy is very child-friendly, I really mean it. Peoples in there like kids, and it is so easy to find playground everywhere, just around the corner. Evenmore, the restaurant provide my daughter some toys so she won't get bored whilst we wait for our food.

Just look at the view from the window!

There was a small window inside the restaurant with a killer view. I mean, imagine living in a house with scenery like that! I think all I would do would be wrapping myself in a blanket, enjoying cups of coffee, and reading lots of books. Once in a while, when the weather was nicer, I would pack my ski equipment and go outside to enjoy the mountain air. Yes, just by looking through that little window, I had already imagined a whole life there.

or Just chilling

and she enjoyed the treat

After finishing our lunch, we explored the area and walked a little further down to the snowy fields. After playing in the snow for a while, unfortunately we couldn’t find any hiking paths that went farther. Most of the paths seemed dangerously crowded with skiers.

We spent about three hours in Alpe di Siusi and decided to head back because we still wanted to explore Bolzano a little more. But just before reaching the bus stop, we found another empty playground right beside a river. Yes, it was another little treat for my daughter!

We went back to Bolzano and spent some time walking around the city while doing a bit of shopping. The next day, we checked out in the afternoon and took the train to our next city, Verona!

I really wish we could have spent more days in Bolzano because we didn’t manage to visit other lakes or Ortisei during this trip. Maybe we need to come back to Bolzano another time!

Verona, the Juliette's home town!

Verona Arena

Our next journey took us to Verona. We took an Intercity train from Bolzano and rode for 1.5 hours. Since we traveled on a weekday and at noon, the train was quite empty. We booked the train via an OTA (not directly through Trenitalia) because of a promo code. It worked just fine, with no need to do anything except show the QR code to the train conductor. Anyway, throughout the 17 days we traveled by train, the conductor always checked the tickets.

When we arrived in Verona, the weather was quite chilly because of the wind. And when we got out of the station exit, I was a bit disappointed because the train station was smaller (and quieter), and there was nothing remarkable in sight. We stayed at a hotel near the station, only to find rows of old apartments surrounding the area.

After checking in and tidying up, we decided to walk to the old town while enjoying the city. It was a 1.5-kilometer walk, with nothing piquing my interest yet. We found a Turkish restaurant and decided to have a late afternoon meal there.

Then we finally arrived at the old town. Our first view was the Verona Arena, with a piazza surrounding it. The Verona Arena, even older than the Colosseum in Rome, was built in 30 AD and is still used for concerts and opera performances until today.

A statue at Piazza with a building full of fresco

While we were enjoying the scenery, my daughter saw a small train car and demanded to ride it. I mean yes, it is a very touristy thing to do, but wow! After walking 1.5 kilometers, riding the train car while enjoying the rows of beautiful buildings in the old town was such a treat that I didn’t know I needed.

All my earlier disappointment instantly dissipated. Verona is super beautiful. Most buildings use pink stone, giving a warm and romantic tone to the city. Some buildings are also painted in warm yellow and terracotta shades, while their windows; with small balconies and green shutters blend beautifully with the wall colors.

Even better, at Piazza delle Erbe, some buildings still have frescoes on their outer walls, like they literally flexed their artistic taste outside their houses!

When I stood there, I was in awe. I think this is the true identity of an Italian city. While the city is colorful and vibrant, it never loses its gracefulness.

Another fun fact (that I heard from the commentary on the train car): Verona used to be a center of business and trade back in the Roman and Medieval eras. The buildings there (especially along Via Mazzini) were merchant houses, and their owners were super rich. The more strategically located their shop was, the more prestigious the family became.

The green window shutter

And of course, there is no memory of visiting Verona without stopping by Juliet’s House. Actually, pardon me, I was quite reluctant to visit Juliet’s House at first because rumor had it that the queue was unbearably long. But when we passed by, there was no queue at all, and the best thing was — it was free! No entrance ticket needed.

We took pictures of the infamous balcony and the statue, of course, then left for our next stop, Castel San Pietro.

Juliette's balcony

Another fun fact: Juliet’s story is fictional, created by William Shakespeare. Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta) is merely symbolic, not the real house of Juliet. That’s why I was quite dumbfounded when I heard about the myth that touching Juliet’s statue would bring good luck, especially in matters of love.

Castel San Pietro

Anyway, we walked again in the direction of Castel San Pietro, but we didn’t want to go up there since it was almost sunset and we didn’t have much time to spare. We were still jet-lagged and sleepy. We stopped across the river and watched the castle’s pink color slowly turn into a bright orange. It was a magical moment! Not only the castle, but all the buildings across the river changed colors as the sun rays began to set.

After that, we took a bus and headed back to the hotel. Dead tired. I really wish we could have spent more time in Verona because one day barely covers the beauty of this vibrant and historically rich city.

Then I said to myself right there, I will definitely come back to Verona and spend more time there!

Our next journey would take us to another beautiful city, surrounded by the Alps — Ljubljana! But since this post is already too long, I will continue my travel journal in the next post!

Winter trip to Hokkaido with a toddler!

2025-08-11T08:43:00.000-07:00

a white-white land

Being a citizen of a tropical island, snow has always been a dream for me, a fascinating dream I could only read about in books or watch in movies. I remember being so captivated when I watched the J-drama Erased, which takes place in Hakodate. The white-capped city scenes felt so surreal, almost like they belonged to another world. I knew then that Hokkaido was one of the places I had to visit in my lifetime. I wanted to feel that surreal atmosphere for myself.

We finally made it there in the summer of 2019. Yes, it was beautiful, quiet, and serene but we still felt like our dream hadn’t truly come true.

Then Covid happened, followed by travel restrictions, a move back to Jakarta, and many other life changes. Eventually, we came across a promo ticket from ANA and decided it was finally time to check something off our wish list: experiencing a winter wonderland in Hokkaido.

This time, our almost two-year-old daughter joined us. Of course, I was nervous (these days, I’m pretty much scared of everything) that the weather might be too cold for our tropical baby. But we wanted to give her the gift of experiencing snow as early as possible. So we bought her a snowsuit, boots, and all the winter gear she would need. We also knew that babies typically have a higher proportion of brown fat compared to adults, which helps them retain heat so our little girl wouldn’t get too cold.

Since we were traveling with our baby girl, we planned our itinerary to be as relaxed as possible. We chose a morning flight from Jakarta and arrived in Tokyo in the late afternoon. We stayed for 4 days and 3 nights in Tokyo before taking a morning flight to Sapporo.

Winter in Sapporo is the peak holiday season, so expect delays and a bit of chaos at both the airport and on public transport. We had to queue for almost an hour and a half to catch the bus from the airport to downtown Sapporo. We chose the bus over the train because our hotel was located close to a bus stop, which made things much easier since we were carrying two large suitcases and a stroller.

We stayed at Tokyu Stay Sapporo, near Odori Park, and arrived at the hotel just before sunset.

Day 2 Sapporo downtown- the Annual Sapporo Snow Festival

Sapporo Snow Festival in the Odori Park

The Sapporo Snow Festival is so famous that we felt we’d be missing out if we didn’t visit it right away. It stretches for about 1.5 km, from 1-chome to 12-chome in Odori Park, and features countless snow sculptures in a variety of themes. We saw Doraemon and other anime-related sculptures, though sadly, I’m no longer up to date with the latest characters. There were also grand and intricate pieces, such as a life-sized mansion and a knight with his horse.

Since the festival spans 1.5 km and our hotel was within walking distance, we thought it would be a good idea to bring a stroller for our daughter. Still, I felt a bit conflicted! small-wheeled strollers don’t cruise very well over snowy paths, and navigating certain areas was quite a challenge.

Brought the stroller-a difficult choice

Inside the festival grounds, many street vendors sold a variety of snacks and drinks, making it easy to enjoy the event to the fullest. There was also an ice rink for children who wanted to try ice skating. I was tempted, wondering if my baby girl was ready for her very first skating experience. But in the end, I decided against it; the rink was too crowded, and I was a little nervous. Maybe she’ll be ready when she turns three.

a very big sculptures

The weather in Sapporo during winter can change quickly, a bright blue sky can turn into grey clouds with heavy snowfall in just an hour. But there’s no need to panic; the weather forecast on my phone was surprisingly accurate, down to the minute. In mid-February, the temperature was around -7°C, which wasn’t too cold for us or our daughter. I noticed, however, that when the wind occasionally picked up (which wasn’t often), my daughter felt a bit chilly. After that, I decided to put her in a snowsuit.

After visiting the Snow Festival, we headed back to the hotel for our baby’s nap time. We rested for about two hours, watching the snow fall heavily from our hotel window. Once she woke up, we walked to the Susukino area for lunch. Unfortunately, we had forgotten that it was peak holiday season, and the queues for popular restaurants were unbelievable. Some places didn’t even take walk-ins, and dinner slots had to be booked a month in advance if you wanted a reasonable time.

Feeling tired and a bit defeated, we ended up at Yoshinoya (which also had a queue!) and enjoyed sukiyaki—for the second time in four days.

Day 3 Otaru Canal

the infamous canal

Once again, we underestimated how crowded the trains would be during the winter holiday season in Hokkaido! We started our morning with a walk from the hotel to Sapporo Station via the underground pathway, enjoying the shops along the way. We arrived at the station around 9 a.m., intending to activate our JR Hokkaido Pass and book train seats for the next several days.

But when we reached the exchange area, the queue was so long that it nearly stretched outside. We waited about an hour and a half to get our passes and rushed to book the next train to Otaru. Unfortunately, all the seats were already taken, so we ended up standing, crammed together with other tourists. We literally competed to get the seat among other tourists. Priority passengers are of no use during the holiday season. The stroller made it even harder to move inside the crowded train, and we accidentally missed Asari Station, ending up directly in Otaru.

By the time we arrived around 1 p.m., we were starving. We remembered how tricky it was to find restaurants in Otaru that didn’t serve pork, and the queues at the seafood places were unbearably long. We ended up at a beef barbecue restaurant that was overpriced and tasted… meh.

Still, the scenery was stunning, with snow falling heavily around us. We strolled along Sakaimachihondori Street and by the Otaru Canal, admiring the winter atmosphere. We noticed the boats weren’t operating that day, perhaps because it was too cold, or maybe they simply don’t run in winter.

To be honest, though, we enjoyed walking along the Otaru Canal much more in summer. Maybe it was the sleet, or maybe we were just too hungry and grumpy from all the queues.

Otaru Canal

Day 4 Biei - Ningle Terrace, Blue Pond, and Shirahige Falls

Waiting for the Bus at Blue Pond

I think that day, our day trip to Biei, was one of the best sceneries we’ve ever experienced and it still lives rent-free in our minds until now. We started the day at 8:00, taking the train from Sapporo Station to Asahikawa Station, then continuing on a local train to Biei. We left the stroller at the hotel, knowing it would be difficult to navigate it in the snowy area. We arrived around 10:20 a.m. and took a quick toilet break, but ended up arriving too late at the bus stop because the queue was already too long.

The headway for the next bus was quite long (about 40 minutes), which would have thrown off our itinerary. So, we decided to board the bus anyway, even though it was crammed. My baby refused to stand and wanted to be carried for the entire half-hour ride. Nobody gave us a seat, probably because most passengers were tourists as tired as we were.

Along the bus routes

When we arrived at the Blue Pond, we couldn’t see the water because it was completely frozen (which we knew beforehand, so it was fine). The snow, however, was so fluffy, and there were hardly any people around. We had a great time throwing snowballs and rolling in the snow.

There, we could only see white stretching across the horizon. Shortly after we arrived, it suddenly began snowing heavily, though it wasn’t too cold. The sky was grey, and the pine trees were the only dark colors in the area. It felt like seeing the world in black and white. It was truly magical.

Snowing so hard

We boarded the next bus in search of a waterfall, only to discover there were actually two. The one we reached was the smaller of the pair, modest compared to Shirahige Falls but it was close, quiet, and entirely ours. Nestled deep within a pine forest, it greeted us with knee-deep snow that muffled our footsteps and wrapped the world in silence.

From the distance, we could already hear it! water tumbling in a steady, crystal-clear song. Standing before it, the sound was pure and almost hypnotic, weaving itself into the stillness of the winter woods. Along the pathway, a weathered gate stood watch, guarded by a statue of an elderly figure peeking out from a blanket of snow. Later, I googled it and found that it was Jizō statue. In Japanese Buddhism, Jizō is the gentle guardian of travelers and children—watching over those who pass by.

The Waterfall (it sounded so soothing)

The Pathway

The Guardian statue

Rolling Arround near to the waterfall

After about half an hour, we realized it was too late to visit Shirahige Falls, so we took a bus back to Biei Station. The snowfall was getting heavier. From there, we caught the train to Furano Station, where our baby girl was ecstatic, running around the empty streets. We had lunch at a small restaurant across from the station, enjoying a unique curry dish while waiting for the bus.

Learning from our earlier mistake, we arrived early at the bus stop, with no one else queuing behind us. But after checking again, we realized we were at the wrong bus stop! We ran like crazy,five minutes before the bus's arrival to cross to the right side of the station. By the time we got there, the queue was already long, and the bus arrived about 10 minutes late. Thankfully, there were still enough seats left, and after about an hour journey, we made it to Ningle Terrace.

Ningle Terrace

Ningle Terrace is a row of charming, unique boutiques located below the New Furano Prince Hotel. Nestled in a hilly pine forest, it’s especially beautiful after sunset. The warm lights along the walkway give it a magical, fairy-tale-like vibe. When we were there, only a small number of shops were open, mostly cafés while most of the souvenir shops were closed.

Inside the bus from Ningle Terrace

Since it was already late and still a long way to go before ending the day, we decided to head back to Sapporo. Once again, we were caught off guard, this time because the train service was halted due to snowstorms. We decided to take a bus to Asahikawa Station instead, which meant we had to reschedule our train from Asahikawa rather than from Furano.

The bus was late, and the journey to Asahikawa Station stretched into more than three hours. Outside the window, snow fell endlessly, blurring the horizon until the whole world seemed painted in shades of white. Night had already settled in, and we passed by clusters of houses with their windows dark and silent, as if time had stopped. It felt as though we had wandered to the very edge of the world.

Inside the bus, only a handful of passengers sat quietly, the hum of the engine the only constant sound. The road was empty, with long stretches where we were the only ones cutting through the winter night. Streetlights were rare, leaving the snow to glow faintly under the dim sky. It wasn’t frightening if anything, it was oddly comforting. And yet, somewhere deep inside, I felt as if I had unlocked a new kind of courage, traveling through a place that seemed so far removed from everything (though, in truth, it wasn’t).

Our takeaway from that day: in winter, be ready for delays, be prepared for detours, and embrace the unexpected routes, they might just lead to your most unforgettable memories.

Did we regret visiting Biei–Furano that day? Not at all. The views were stunning, and we had plenty of time to rest on the bus. We weren’t even that tired, just a little hungry. If anything, we should have planned it at a more relaxed pace. And yes, we realized that for visiting other cities in Hokkaido, it’s better to make Asahikawa your hub.

Day 5 Lake Toya

Scenery along the train route to Lake Toya

We had an ambitious plan to visit Abashiri to experience the drift ice. We even booked seats on the famous Ryuhyō Monogatari Train, which has very limited availability.

However, we later saw the news that in 2025, the drift ice in the Sea of Okhotsk was arriving much later than usual. On top of that, we were already exhausted, so we decided to cancel the trip and take an easier route instead to Lake Tōya. We boarded the train to Toyako and arrived about an hour and a half later, leaving the stroller at the hotel to avoid getting crammed inside the bus.

When we arrived at Toyako Station, we went straight to the bus stop just outside the station doors, taking turns for a quick toilet break. Our instincts were right! the queue grew long right after we joined it. Thankfully, two buses were running on the same schedule, so everyone managed to get on, though it was still quite packed.

At the Lake Tōya bus stop, the atmosphere was calmer and not at all crowded. Our baby girl immediately ran to the nearest open space, laughing and playing in the snow. The weather was pleasant, not too cold, with barely any wind.

Baby Girl enjoyed running arround

We walked from the bus station to the lake and immediately gasped at the view. It was a stark contrast to the day before, when all we could see was white stretching across the horizon. Before us unfolded a scene so vivid it felt like stepping into another world. Gone was yesterday’s endless horizon of white; today, the sky glowed in a pure, unbroken blue, mirrored perfectly on the surface of the lake. Behind it all, snow-capped mountains stood tall, their peaks shimmering like distant, mythical creatures keeping watch.

A blue lake. A blue sky. A land draped in white, framed by mountains of silver and shadow. If beauty could be distilled into a single moment, it would look like this.

a view from the bus stop

Lake Tōya is a volcanic caldera lake surrounded by majestic mountains, including Mount Usu and Mount Yotei.

To enjoy the lake at its best, we took a ferry ride across the water, feeling the cold breeze as we glided along its surface. When the chill became too much, we retreated to the warmth of the cabin, sipping hot chocolate while admiring the scenery through the wide windows, a perfect blend of comfort and beauty.

Lake Toya and Mount Usu

Baby enjoyed the Ferry ride

Bird flying low

View from inside the Ferry

We took lots of photos and had a snowball fight with our baby girl. Tired from playing, we walked to the main street and found a small local restaurant serving traditional Japanese dishes. Inside, about four elderly staff members were busy cooking, cleaning, and serving. We ordered udon and beef dishes, and enjoyed every bite.

Lake Tōya itself wasn’t very crowded. There were some tourists, but we couldn’t help wondering where all the other people from the packed bus had gone. Only a handful of visitors were by the lake, I guess most of them headed straight to the onsen areas.

Since we didn’t want to arrive too late in Sapporo, we boarded the next available bus and headed back, continuing our journey to Sapporo by train.

Day 6 Sapporo downtown

Night at the Sapporo

Since we were heading back to Tokyo on Day 7, we wanted to spend our last day exploring Sapporo. We did a little shopping, hopping between almost every mall between our hotel and Sapporo Station such as Parco, BIC Camera, Marui Imai, Sapporo Stellar Place, and of course, the Tanuki-Koji Shopping Arcade.

Yes, it was very crowded. Not just with foreign tourists, but also packed with locals. The most challenging time was during lunch and dinner, walk-ins were almost impossible. We waited two hours for dinner at Sushiro. It was the same story with other popular chain restaurants like Yakiniku Like, Gyu-Kaku, or any well-known eatery.

Once, we randomly picked a beef-hamburg restaurant above Don Quijote in Tanuki-Koji, and the food didn’t quite hit the mark. It was alright, but our expectations were high especially since during our summer trip, Sapporo had never disappointed us in the food department.

Minami-dori Street

The infamous Nikka sign

If there’s one thing we regret about this trip, it’s only that we wished it had been longer. Seven days sounded like plenty when we planned it, but with a toddler, time seemed to slip through our fingers. We missed a few dreams on our list like Abashiri, or riding the ropeway up Mount Moiwa (which we amusingly failed to reach not once, but twice).

But maybe that’s the universe telling us we need to return when our baby girl is a little older, when the stroller is no longer part of our luggage, and when her little legs are ready to wear the ski-boots.

In the end, this was one of the best trips of our lives. The landscapes, the moments, the laughter, it’s all etched in our hearts. And yes, even with a toddler, we’d recommend it in a heartbeat. Because Hokkaido in winter is not just beautiful, it’s the kind of beautiful that stays with you forever.

If I were a Boy (?)

2025-07-12T02:06:00.000-07:00

Building a Duplo is my everyday tasks nowadays
(seems 'easy job', right?)

A long time ago, my mother often told me that being a boy is much easier than being a girl. Yeah, hold your horses, boy! Don’t get mad at what an old woman with three sons and a daughter has to say.

Lately, I’ve been thinking, she’s been right all along.

Yes, yes, yes, being a boy is also hard, especially when it comes to the responsibilities of being a breadwinner. But let me break it down—hear me out—so you can understand my point of view and be a little more understanding toward the women in your life.

Actually, it all started to become crystal clear when I was pregnant and then had my baby. First, there was the hormonal storm that completely took over my body and mind. If it’s supposed to be a partnership between a man and a woman, why does only the woman’s body go through all of it? Yes, yes, it’s my destiny. But still—that’s something to be envious of!

And I thought it would end there, but boy, was I wrong! That was just the beginning until my brain start shifting and hit the tip of the iceberg—the mental load of being a woman. The mental load that hit me the moment my baby was born. Something completely new to me. Mind you, I was a pretty carefree girl before the baby came along.

The mental load I’m talking about is the reel that keeps playing in my head—from the moment I wake up until I close my eyes at night. I think about what my daughter will wear today, what she will eat, how many calories she needs to make up for yesterday’s deficit, why she refuse all good Banana today meanwhile yesterday she ate it in a blink, what her schedule looks like, the sleep math and how to align it with mine, what she’ll play with—sandpit, water, or maybe introducing her to alphabets. How’s her snack today? Why didn’t she poop yesterday? Why is her poop’s texture weird? Should I buy that imported, expensive prebiotic that Mamagram promoted? Why did she suddenly stop giving me kisses? Did I do something wrong yesterday? Was I too harsh with her? What parenting book should I read next? Did I cause her emotional scars? Bla bla bla.

And it doesn’t stop with logistics or food. I try to project and anticipate the environment to protect her. What if it rains when we go to the playground? Or if it’s too hot? Too windy? Should I pack a raincoat? Sunscreen? A jacket? Windbreaker? Umbrella? What’s that sound outside disturbing her sleep? Why does light seep through the curtains and ruin her nap?

From mundane thoughts to deep philosophical ones—what if I die? Will she be okay with her father? Will she miss me? Remember me? Forgive me?

Believe me, I’ve tried to stop thinking this much, but my brain is wired differently now.

And here I am, a housewife, with my daughter 24 hours a day. Yes, I chose this life—but does that mean I’m not allowed to feel tired of my own mind?

Surprisingly (to me), playing with a 2-year-old every day takes a lot of patience and creativity—and sometimes, we have a toxic relationship. She bites and throws things at me. I get mad, then feel guilty afterward. She cries a lot and I often have no idea why. Sometimes her silly reasons are just cute. But on other days, I feel like I’ve had enough—I lock myself in the bathroom while she bangs on the door, crying and calling for me. Then I feel like a failure.

I used to think being a housewife was a generally laid-back job. The kind where you can nap whenever you want—what a luxury that seemed compared to being a working woman! I didn’t realize that even if you can nap, it’s often the only moment you get to be calm—not overstimulated, not touched, not needed, not called on by a little person.

And most of all, I bet men don’t carry this kind of mental load. They don’t even remember where they put the keys or their socks—and always come asking their wife where she put them (as if her mental load wasn’t already enough!).

I know that mothering and fathering are entirely different roles, and I truly understand that. But still, that’s the part I envy about being a man.

A man can say: “Beb, I’m going to hang out with my friends—just for a bit,” on a Sunday, a day his exhausted wife has been dreaming of spending reading quietly while he watches the kid. Just for a bit, maybe two hours.

Then he goes. He might send a line or two asking if everything’s okay at home—and enjoys his time to the fullest.

If the roles were reversed, and the wife wanted to meet her friends on a Sunday—even for not long—she would prepare everything for the kids before she leaves. And during the not-long outing, her mind would still be at home. Did her husband feed the kids healthy food? Did he actually play with them or just stare at his phone? She ends up calling or texting to check in. On a bad day, the child cries for her and they end up video calling her mid-meetup. And just like that, those precious two hours with friends are gone.

Yup. That’s the difference I envy.
I wish women could go out for two hours to meet a friend without worrying or feeling guilty.

No—don’t start talking about how men also do a lot. Working their bones off to feed the family, dealing with office politics, chasing careers, climbing the ladder, or managing a mountain of tasks.
Trust me—I’ve been there. I never thought about my job 24/7, nor did I feel guilty for needing to rest during work hours.

Now imagine the mental load of a working mom.
She’s both a mother and a worker. It’s beyond comparison.

Again, I understand that's my destiny and my choice being a woman and a mother that I am super grateful beyond anything that given to me in this life.

And then there’s this:
A man gets praised for playing with his kids at the playground: “Oh wow, what a loving father!”
Meanwhile, no one bats an eye at a woman doing the exact same thing. Yeah, it’s her job anyway, right?

See, women are constantly being undermined, treated like second-class citizens.

Even when a husband helps around the house, hold it, let’s be real—the word help itself is problematic.
It’s not helping. It’s also his responsibility, to care for his children, to do the laundry, wash the dishes, even cook.

So what's the point of my ranting? Because I read somewhere that writing it can help my chaotic brain merge into calm river, also I need to feel being my self again. Able to write anything in my mind.

But, it must be a point, right? How about how can a man help his woman? To easing out the chaos in her mind, to not feel left out and trapped alone in this world since her child born in this world?

I think just show an appreciation to woman. She’s building a life (yes, maybe with your money or hers)—but it’s a life that’s fundamentally important and absolutely priceless.

Show her how thankful you are for everything she does—no matter how chaotic your home might be right now. You don’t need to give her diamond earrings or Chanel bags.

Just something simple, like this:

When someone appreciates your kid, appreciate the woman who raised them. Treat her like the Queen in your mind.

Example:

“Wow, your kid is so tall!”
❌ Wrong answer: “Yeah, it’s in my genes.”
✅ Right answer: “Yes, my wife is really thoughtful about her diet and protein intake. And my genes may be as an addition.”

“Wow, your kid is so smart!”
❌ Wrong answer: “Yeah, she is basically born smart.”
✅ Right answer: “My wife went above and beyond teaching her herself.”

Even if it’s not all done by your wife, it’s still good and important to acknowledge her work, especially in front of others.

Some people will say, “If you’re overstimulated by your kids, just hire a nanny.”
Let me tell you; a nanny isn’t the solution for everything. It’s not just a luxury or a “love language” from a husband to a wife. Some people choose not to hire a nanny because they want to be 100% involved in their kids’ development. And even with a nanny, a mother doesn’t simply stop thinking about her child’s logistics, well-being, and emotional needs. If anything, it often just adds more to her mental load.

Same goes for daycare.

Why?
Because women and men are wired differently.
And that’s what I envy most.

So yeah, maybe all of this is just a long ramble. Maybe I gain nothing from writing it—except a little peace of mind.
Likewise, I’m just trying to reconnect with the part of myself that’s been buried since pregnancy.

But if you’ve read this far, I hope you walk away with even just a sliver of understanding, why women seem easily stressed or overly sensitive sometimes?
Because, truthfully, there’s just too much going on in her head.
And sometimes, she didn’t choose it to be that way.

It’s not easy being a woman.
That’s something you need to remember.
Because you’ll never truly understand, unless you are one.

Please note that this ramble is not an angry post. Please read it with open mind and in a positive tones. Haha.

Motherhood Part 2

2024-05-31T08:26:00.000-07:00

Mothering at Disneyland

Whoa, sudah 14 bulan berlalu sejak aku jadi Mama. Kalau dilihat ke belakang, waktu berjalan ngebut apalagi baby kecil yang kemaren cuma bisa oe oe sekarang udah bisa diajak berkomunikasi. Udah beberapa milestones bayi yang terlampaui but do I feel better? how am I actually? Apa yang aku rasakan dan alami selama 14 bulan terakhir sejak menjadi ibu? Apakah membaik dari posting terakhirku?

Well,untuk menjawabnya, aku mau sharing apa yang terjadi dalam hidupku akhir-akhir ini. Menjadi seorang ibu adalah 24 jam dikali sisa hidupku, oke may be 22 hours ( the others two, my baby with my husband). Jadi tidak seperti lembur kerja yang ada fase beratnya, atau ada fase gabutnya. It is mentally, physically full time job.Tugas menjadi ibu selalu berat dari detik ia mengandung mungkin sampai akhir hayat.

(spoiler alert, semua yang kutulis adalah yang aku rasakan, bukan mengeluh atau tidak bersyukur. Tapi sebagai gambaran yang mungkin bisa menginspirasi calon ibu dan bapak yang ada di luar sana. Anyway tulisan ini terjadi karena aku sedang kangen nulis banget).

First Phase : New Born

They say fase new born adalah yang terberat. Sampai detik ini aku setuju, fase itu phisically exhausting dan mentally scaring. Why? begadang selama 1,5 bulan pertama hidup bayiku ditambah unbalance and raging hormones. Pada fase ini, I was scared of everything. Takut pada air panas, pada gunting kuku atau suara cegukan bayi. Seperti untuk pertama kalinya indra keenamku diaktifkan dan otak memprosesnya sangat detail yang berujung pada...overthinking. Sebagai kaum pragmatis, overthinking ini drained my soul. May be that's why a Mom is not cool in front of their kids. She's always overthinking.

Kemudian setelah fase newborn terlewati, kupikir I will slowly get back to myself. I know, baca di artikel somewhere dibutuhkan 7 tahun untuk ibu mulai kembali mengenali dirinya sendiri, tapi aku tidak menyangka kalau cara berfikir otakku menjadi sangat asing bagi diriku sendiri.

Contoh gejolak internal ditambah faktor kurang tidur adalah endlessly questioning myself, Am I good enough? Am I allowed to feel tired sometimes since I wait for my girl for 9 years! Aku tahu jawabannya, yes I am allowed to feel tired. Buat how long Am I allowed to feel this? Seluruh pertanyaan dan perasaan ‘negatif’ yang muncul selalu kembali pada ultimate answer, I am waiting for 9 years for this, I shall savor every minute of motherhood.

Aku tidak tahu apakah itu sehat, but I managed.

Anyway kalau ada bapak-bapak yang baca dan pengen tahu rumitnya otak ibu saat merawat bayi kecil di 3 bulan pertama, ini sedikit gambarannya.

I am questioning : Did i breastfeed enough my baby? From the quality of milk, frequency or how she latch. Even when she gained enough weight, there are millions questions doubting my self. Did I sterilized the bottle pump enough? Why her color of poops are strange? Did i mistakenly eat something that harm her? Why she's not gained any weight? Should I change to formula? I forgot to hold my phone while breastfeeding, am I too close to hold my phone? Will radiation effect her health?

About latching, it is another level. Itu sakit banget. Seriously. Proses belajar menyusui is painful for me. Walaupun pas hamil aku ikut kelas menyusui, tapi lecet yang nggak abis-abis dan payudara bengkak berkali-kali. It's hurt.

During my sleepless night, si bayi yang baru belajar mengenali siang dan malam, tapi belum bisa banyak diajak main pas bangun. I think that was most lonely time. At dawn, when the world is so quiet outside, I saw in the eyes of my baby girl, and questioning, apakah aku sudah cukup membesarkan dia dengan baik? Apakah aku membuat kesalahan hari ini? Seharusnya aku lebih sabar, seharusnya aku lebih kuat, seharusnya aku lebih kreatif. Dan banyak seharusnya yang lain.

Setelah bayiku berusia 3 bulan, aku memang kembali bekerja. Yes, slowly aku mulai merasa kembali seperti ke diriku sendiri. Bertemu teman, sosialisasi, kembali sibuk, ada beberapa kepingan dari diriku yang dulu kembali. Happy but not really. Karena pikiranku selalu kembali ke bayiku, bayiku bersama dengan babysitter dan neneknya, dan aku punya pemikiran sendiri bagaimana merawat anakku. Selama di kantor, kerjaanku jadi ngeliatin cctv, terus pas di jalan pulang sama suami jadi ngeluh terus, ngeluhin bagaimana cara kerja babysitter.

Dan ketika bayi sudah mulai aktif bisa berguling, aku seperti baru sadar kalau dia memang individu yang berbeda, bukan bagian dari tubuhku ( I did feel like bayi itu seperti membelah diri dari tubuhku). Dia memiliki keinginan, kemauan, dan preferensi sendiri. Itu yang membuatnya ngangenin sekaligus lucu. Ketika dia mulai menunjukkan ekspresi tidak suka saat kita melakukan sesuatu dengannya. Kerinduan itu yang bikin berat banget berada jauh darinya.

Akhirnya aku putuskan resign. Menyesal? Engga sama sekali. Karena berbagai alasan yang sudah kupertimbangkan matang-matang, resign emang keputusan terbaik menurutku. Memiliki bayi adalah katalis 20% mempercepat keputusan resign-ku (mungkin akan kubahas lain waktu). Konsekuensinya waktu sosialisasi dengan teman seketika musnah, dan kepingan yang sempat kembali itu hilang lagi.

Nobody told me that being a mother means dealing with loneliness. Walaupun berada di tempat ramai, pikiranku seperti reels instragram yang tidak berhenti memutar berbagai hal, lost focus. Begitu banyak ketakutan baru, seperti kalau aku sakit nanti baby gimana, ato lebih extreme, kalau aku meninggal, baby gimana hidup sama bapaknya aja?

Have you ever felt that your mind is so crowded but you can’t tell anyone about that? Karena supernova kekhawatiran itu sounds silly when you share it on words with others.

I mean, I am worried about my baby get pneumonia because she got choked during drinking water. And everytime she did that, my mind keeps wildering.

I am too much, I knew it. But I can’t stop.

That’s a new. Sebagai orang yang selalu praktis dan impulsif (ga pernah berpikir panjang wkwk) , ini menghabiskan sebagian besar energiku.

Ah, ngomongin energi, sometimes i have time but not the energy. Atau sebaliknya, I have energy but not the time. Kebetulan baby tidurnya antara jam 18-19 malam sampe pagi, seharusnya aku punya idle time untuk sekedar nonton drakor ato menulis seperti ini. But trust me, seharian bersama bayi menguras lebih banyak energi daripada ngurusin audit di kantor. I’m overstimulated. Jadi kadang tidur adalah pilihan terbaik (my husband teases me about i slept same duration with my baby).

Kadang aku tidak punya energi untuk online shopping ( tapi sekalinya ada, check out 40 keranjang). Mamaku heran dengan low energy mode seperti ini, katanya dia dulu ga pernah kaya aku, hahaha. So I dont know, Am I alone to feel this way?

Kemudian, hormones. Hormonku masih bergelora dan rasanya aku seperti kembali ke jaman ABG. Moodswing. Kadang, malam rasanya sepi banget dan tiba-tiba menangis for no reason. Kalo kaya gini, biasanya cuma bisa nyiumin pipi bayi yang lagi lelap tidurnya. This raging hormones kadang juga terlampiaskan pada suami. Kalo suami lagi nanyain “ini barang di mana?” Berkali-kali, Wah rasanya pengen ngirim dia ke Mars ha ha ha. Tapi kemudian, tanpa dia aku lebih stress, jadi dijawab dengan judes aja.

Kalau dibilang usia 3-6 bulan is the easiest, sejauh ini aku setuju. Bayi udah cukup kuat dan bisa diajak maen. Wake Windows lebih panjang, digendong tidak terlalu berat, jadwal tidur sudah teratur, dan mudah ditidurkan karena belum terlalu reog.

Second Phase : MPASI

Meanwhile, seorang ibu newbie memasuki masa MPASI.

Di sinilah insting seorang Ibu diasah untuk cracking baby code. Kalau belajar menyusui aja susah, apalagi belajar makan yang jenisnya bermacam-macam dari segi tekstur, rasa dan tampilan. Aku tidak akan bahas MPASI homemade vs fortif karena sejak menjadi ibu, we feel guilty everyday jadi aku ga mau nambah guilty dari ibu-ibu lain karena pilihannya.

Untungnya, di awal MPASI aku memiliki easy baby, dia hampir selalu memakan apapun yang disajikan untuknya. Sampai umur 10 bulan, gigi pertama sampai kelima muncul bebarengan, disitulah kesabaran diuji.

Cracking babycode is not easy. Siang ini dia suka makanan dingin, malam dia ga mau makanan dingin lagi. Hari ini dia mau makan brokoli, besok lihat brokoli aja dia udah marah. Belum lagi udah 1 bulan dia menolak makan karbohidrat.

Lalu ada komen...."Kok anaknya kurus banget sih, kamu gimana sih ngasih makannya?"

Wah.......

Wah......

Wah.......

Seperti yang kubilang, ini adalah masa kesabaran seorang Ibu diuji sampai ke titik darah penghabisan. Sebenernya kasihan lihat bayi yang kayaknya mencoba berkomunikasi ke ibunya, tapi selalu dipahami berbeda. Tapi, saat hasil masak jam 5 pagi ga disentuh sama sekali itu sungguh ya, menarik nafas berulang kali pun tidak bisa meredakan kemarahan (kekecewaan) pada diri sendiri ini.

Kemudian masalah poop. Who can expect that I am so happy whenever I see my baby poop regularly. I mean, who’s Happy over a human’s poop? Yes, a mother. Kemudian tiba-tiba ia diare, sang ibu mendadak jadi detektif dan scientist untuk merumuskan makanan apa yang menyebabkan dia diare? Seriously, this is a trial and error game.

Challenge lain lagi adalah SLEEP.

Why nobody told me that sleep is one of mammoth challenge to tackle in babies? So, I learned it later when my baby was 5 months old that they have what is called Wake windows. Seriously, If I knew it earlier, my life would be so easy. Aku inget pas baby several days old, dia selalu kebangun tiap jam 2 Sampe jam 5 pagi. Saking frustrasinya, aku sampe bacain banyak ayat alquran takut dia lagi sawan 🥲, padahal ternyata aku ga cukup bangunin dia saat daylight.

Oke, nextbbaby sudah punya jadwal bangun dan tidur teratur. And there come Sleep regression. Ga ada hujan, ga ada angin, tiba-tiba bayi engga mau tidur sama sekali. Maunya guling-guling ato nursing gymnast. Sementara aku adalah tipe orang yang mencintai tidur dengan sepenuh jiwaku. Why you are not sleeping little baby? Sleep depriviation makes Mama cranky, please sleep.

Dan aku baru menyadari kalau bayi ini untuk jatuh tidur aja belajar. Kebetulan aku memang belum sleep train si baby karena pengen selalu meluk dia saat tidur di masa-masa dia bayi (baca : ga tega buat sleep train), jadi memang aku cari penyakit sendiri.

Jadi, menjadi ibu adalah battle dengan diri sendiri. Meredam amarah, menurunkan ekspektasi, menaikkan ceiling kesabaran yang itu bukanlah hal yang mudah. Meskipun cintaku pada anakku seluas galaxy, tapi deep down, ekspektasi selalu menyelinap dan jadi api yang dengan cepat membakar amarah jika kenyataan berbeda. So yes, this is me against myself.

Tentang Milestone

Every baby is unique, every single human being is unique. But there is milestone guideline buat para orang tua untuk memeriksa apakah bayinya sudah tumbuh dan berkembang sesuai usia. Tapi, akan selalu ada orang di luar sana yang tidak diundang ikutan comment tentang milestone anak.

“Kok belum jalan? Belum ngomong?”

Sejak bayi lahir, I know I will love her as she is, tapi hampir setiap minggu aku cek milestone bayi. Dari dia babbling, hilangnya reflek moro, tepuk tangan, merangkak, berdiri, first word, berjalan, berlari, menari, meniru dan lain-lain. Di dalam otakku sudah begitu banyak kekhawatiran tanpa perlu ditambahkan komentar orang lain, “kok bisanya cuma bilang Papa sih?”…..dan kebanyakan yang komen gitu adalah ibu juga.

Menjadi ibu adalah berkawan dengan perasaan merasa bersalah, all the time. Selalu ada pikiran, ‘seharusnya tadi aku’ jika berhubungan dengan anak. Atau second guessing, ‘udah bener ga sih? Nanti kalo salah gimana?’

Ketika berhubungan dengan milestone, rasa bersalah itu hadir di tiap pencapaian dan keterlambatan. Jadi, please komen tentang milestone anak dari orang lain itu, basa-basi yang super basi.

On the Bright side

Tentu saja menjadi Ibu itu tidak melulu tentang tekanan dan lelah karena sesungguhnya begitu banyak kebahagiaan yang hadir di detik ketika anak terlahir.

Tangisan pertamanya yang terdengar di telingaku adalah kebahagiaan terbesar dalam hidupku. Saat tangisnya terhenti karena ia mendengar detak jantungku, suara yang familiar bağınya adalah Salah satu alasan aku bersyukur telah hidup di dunia ini.

Begitu banyak hal sederhana yang ia lakukan namun hatiku sangat hangat dan bahagia menerimanya. Saat ia menatapku dari kedua bola matanya yang bahkan belum bisa melihat jelas. Saat melihat Ia tersenyum dalam tidurnya bahkan saat ia menyusu dengan lahap, sebuah kebahagiaan. Kadang, terbesit dalam benakku, bagaimana mungkin manusia sekecil ini bisa memberikan begitu banyak kebahagiaan untuk orang tuanya? I am so blessed.

Dulu, setiap melihat anak kecil digendong dan memeluk tubuh orang tuanya, aku selalu merasa iri. Enaknya, ada manusia lain yang selalu memelukmu dan membutuhkanmu.

Sekarang, aku punya manusia kecil itu, apalagi di usia anakku sekarang yang tangannya sudah bisa memeluk erat leherku, sebuah kebahagiaan yang engga bisa dinilai harganya. Aku hanya bisa bersyukur dan berdoa bahwa sampai usia berapapun, ia tidak pernah ragu untuk memeluk orang tuanya.

Saat ia tertawa riang ‘hanya’ karena candaan Cilukba, God, I never know that love can be this deep.

Dan aku tidak akan bohong bahwa di setiap pencapaian milestone, aku bersorak paling kencang. Karena aku ingin menjadi suporter nya yang paling militan, dan untuk diriku, menepuk dadaku sendiri, ‘I did it even mostly based on my instinct’

Perubahan lain dari motherhood yang paling terasa adalah melembutnya perasaanku terhadap anak. Aku jadi gampang nangis kalau lihat anak kecil lain sedang menderita, apalagi lihat anak-anak Palestina. Aku juga jadi cepat merespon ketika ada anak kecil membutuhkan sesuatu, termasuk anak kecil yang tidak aku kenal. This is strange bagiku karena aku dulunya cuek dengan anak kecil lain. I mean, I love kids and play with them but I have zero idea how to respond if they need anything.

So, to sum up. I feel better already. That damn baby blues maybe have gone away. I did feel too sensitive sometimes, but I guess it is hormonal since I am still breastfeeding therefore my hormones got confused. I am enjoying my life so much, but that doesn't mean I have no complaints. There are days that I am scared of dying, maybe up until now just because my baby is still a baby. This is new to me, but before that, I barely thought about death. I am beyond grateful, I know now of term that being a mother is a blessing. I love every second of being a mother.

Okay, this is too long already. Aku akan update Motherhood part selanjutnya along the way, whenever I feel missing writing so much.

Motherhood for Newbie

2023-05-04T23:51:00.009-07:00

Pagi itu, saat akhirnya aku dapat kemewahan mencuci rambut pakai air panas, antara membilas sampo dan mengaplikasikan kondisioner, sebuah kenangan muncul dalam otakku. Selama kecil, aku selalu suka main boneka-bonekaan, setiap hari, bahkan saat temanku ga ada yang mau nemenin, aku bermain sendiri. Sampai dewasa pun, aku masih suka membeli boneka, walaupun untuk koleksi atau saving for my future daughter, tapi tidak lagi dimainkan. Jadi, keluargaku selalu percaya that my future daughter will be like my live-doll.

Saat menikah, aku dan suami-kami tahu, we always want a child but never rush it. Perkara punya anak bukan cuma gemes-gemesan atau memikirkan tabungan untuk pendidikan dan kesejahteraannya. Tapi deep down, aku lebih khawatir bagaimana kalau menjadi orang tua yang tidak bisa membahagiakan anakku. Mendidik anak adalah tugas yang sangat besar, and there is no manual in it. Gimana kalau aku membuatnya tidak bahagia? Karena aku tahu, memiliki anak akan mengubah wanita jadi jauh lebih mencintai anaknya daripada dirinya sendiri. Jadi bayangkan jika anak tidak bahagia, berapa kali lipat tidak bahagia ibunya?

Jadi, secara tidak sadar sepertinya hal tersebut membentuk mental slacking off untuk punya anak. We tried our best but never rush it.

Setahun kami belum punya anak, kami pergi ke dokter. Both of us are checked dari dokter satu ke dokter lain, rumah sakit satu ke yang lain. Perjuangan dua garis seperti yang orang-orang tahu, panjang dan melelahkan (serta costly). Apalagi kalau tinggal di Jakarta, suami-istri bekerja, investasi pada waktu sangat besar. Perjalanan dari kantor menuju rumah sakit kena macet, waktu tunggu selama antrian konsultasi dan perjalanan dari rumah sakit menuju ke rumah. Bertahun-tahun. Berapa banyak waktu yang menguap di jalanan dan ruang tunggu? mungkin ada 2 tahun :(. Belum lagi quest mencari dokter yang cocok seperti menonton pertarungan Goku dan Friza di Indosiar, lama dan ga abis-abis. Dari dokter yang super terkenal, antri berjam-jam sampai pasrah ketemu dokter tersepi dan terdingin. Di titik itulah aku paham, mencari dokter seperti si jomblo mencari yayang buat nikah. Ini semua perkara jodoh.

Singkatnya, it took 8 years sampai akhirnya aku melihat dua garis di test pack pagi itu. Reaksiku? standar, menangis dan tidak percaya. I think I never been happiest in my life till that point. All happiness in the past are prevail. Ya, selebay itu. Karena, sudah berapa banyak test pack yang kucoba, baru hari itu bergaris dua.

Pagi itu, aku langsung pergi ke Prodia untuk test HCG. Badanku masih melayang antara percaya dan tidak percaya. Ada perang batin, 'ah gimana kalo false positive?' di sisi lain, 'Omg, there is a life in my womb!'

Dramanya lagi, ternyata Prodia di deket rumah tidak bisa memberikan hasilnya dengan cepat. Fast forward, beberapa hari kemudian aku ke SpOg dan dokter bilang :

"Alhamdulillah Ibu hamil," sambil menunjukkan hasil USG di layar yang hanya titik kecil. Meskipun ga paham gambar di USG, tapi di situ seluruh duniaku menjadi surga terindah yang ada dalam benakku. Bunga bermekaran, komedi putar berdendang, kembang api meluncur. Suamiku? ah, dia dengan datar bilang: "Aku sih udah yakin dari hasil test pack." That's us, pesimist and optimist.

Perjalanan selama kehamilan pun bisa dibilang complete. Checklist gejala kehamilan yang ditulis di buku hampir semua kurasakan. Trimester pertama berat karena dalam sehari bisa muntah berkali-kali. Belum lagi harus pulang pergi ke kantor kena macet luar biasa. On the side note, I really hate jalan ciledug, pembangunan tanpa henti bikin macet ga kira-kira. Dan sudah berapa liter muntahan tertumpah di sepanjang jalan itu. Saking ga sabarnya, berkali-kali mengajukan pengaduan di Jaki.

Trimester kedua is okay, baby bump udah mulai nongol, mual udah hilang dan bisa jalan-jalan. Di titik ini, ketakutanku mulai berkurang. My baby is strong enough. Aku mulai memberikan kabar ke orang-orang kalau aku sedang hamil. Walaupun sejujurnya, aku masih tidak percaya, seperti keajaiban yang mungkin akan musnah jika banyak orang yang tahu. Untungnya banyak orang yang mendukung dan mendoakan dengan tulus. Seorang teman yang lagi hamil juga bilang kepadaku : Percaya mbak, kalau Allah udah ngasih, pasti akan menjadi milikmu. Tapi, doa di setiap malam tidak pernah putus. Dan karena aku sedang fase penakut, segala macam test kita lakukan untuk memastikan jabang baby sehat dan enjoy fase perkembangannya di rahim. Dari seorang yang males ke dokter jadi dikit-dikit ke dokter.

Trimester ketiga, sama beratnya dengan trimester pertama. Karena badan udah mulai berat dan pada bulan ke delapan, timbul lah unexpected challenge. Gatel. Gatel yang ga bisa dinalar di sekujur tubuh sampai ga bisa tidur setiap malam. Seminggu sebelum lahiran adalah puncaknya, kulit terkena jahitan baju aja udah gatel minta ampun. Kadang, sampai nangis karena kesel banget gatelnya. Dan Insomnia. Setiap hari, baru bisa tidur jam 4 pagi karena overthinking. Orang yang mengenalku lama pasti tertawa karena seseorang yang cuek seperti aku bisa overthinking.

Setiap hari, aku berdoa, ayo cepat maret biar bisa lahiran dan ga gatel-gatel lagi.

Fast forward, akhirnya pada tanggal 02 Maret, aku ketemu dengan my beautiful baby girl. Sampai akhirnya ia berada di pelukanku, no, I don't believe it. Memeluknya, menyentuh kulitnya yang halus seperti kaca dan memandang wajahnya (yang mirip bapaknya! Jadi aku cuma mesin fotokopi di sini), you know, you are different woman than yesterday. Mother's instinc kicked in, dan segala jenis ketakutan muncul, yang aku tau akan menemaniku di sepanjang hidupku.

Aku ga punya masalah banyak dengan proses melahirkan. Dokternya capable dan rumah sakitnya sangat supportif (kecuali harganya hahaha). Dari trimester ketiga, aku memang memilih cesar karena pertimbangan umur (dan betapa magernya aku untuk yoga selama hamil). Nagita Slavina sold ERACS method very well jadi aku kebeli, dan memang post natal, tidak semengerikan yang diceritakan orang tentang Cesar.

Yes, it hurts terutama 2 hari pertama setelah operasi, tapi bearable, lebih sakit pas dilepas kateter hehe. Saat disuntik bius pun I have no recollection that it was hurt so bad. Sakit, ya kaya diambil darah. Mungkin dokterku canggih, atau alatnya yahud. No idea.

Setelah melahirkan, kupikir the hardest part has been passed. TERNYATA AKU SALAH. THIS IS THE BEGINNING OF EVERYTHING. NO BODY TOLD ME HOW HARD TRIMESTER IV IS!

There is a tiny human being that depend her life on yourself. And that tiny human being cannot even speak yet. Bahkan, ia hanya bisa minum dari susu yang ada di tubuh ibunya. Ditambah lagi tekanan bahwa seluruh organ dalam tubuhnya belum sempurna. She's so fragile, takut kegencet badanku yang segede dugong.

Kebanyakan minum, Ia akan cegukan. Tidak disendawakan, ia akan gumoh, salah posisi menyusui bikin dia kembung. Kalau payudara terlalu deras dihisap bikin dia kesedak. Trust me, melihat dia kesedak tidak bisa bernafas bikin ibunya ikutan ga bisa nafas.

MENYUSUI ITU SANGATLAH SULIT KAWAN. Dibutuhkan seluruh elemen masyarakat untuk bisa membuat seorang ibu menyusui bayinya, ya termasuk pak kades kalo bisa. Who ever thought pelekatan dari bibir bayi ke aerola itu merupakan proses yang berdarah-darah (putingnya).

Posisinya harus benar, Ibu harus relax, her tiny mouth, your swelling breast, your milk supply and her crying also frustration. It took a month sampai aku bisa menyusui tanpa panik.

Kenapa aku bilang dibutuhkan dukungan 1 desa, karena mental ibu setelah melahirkan tidak sekuat karang. Melihat anak yang terus menangis karena tidak bisa menyusu, dalam hati kecilnya juga stress minta ampun dan mau menyerah. Ditambah kalau dokter mengatakan : ini, berat badannya ga naik-naik, harus ditambahin sufor daripada stunting, lalu ibu atau mertua menambahkan : "anak kamu nangis terus, kasih sufor aja bagus juga kok."

Here, here. Ibu yang melahirkan punya dua opsi dalam memberikan susu kepada bayinya. Pertama eksklusif ASI dan yang kedua adalah memberikan susu formula. Pro dan kontra tidak akan saya ceritakan di sini, tapi dari awal saya ingin memberikan ASI eksklusif ke baby jadi aku harus teguh.

Kupikir, memberikan ASI itu perkara supply. Selama ASI keluar, then it is settled. But no, banyak halang rintangnya, termasuk puting lecet, ASI tersumbat. Khusus yang terakhir biasanya dibutuhkan Pijat Laktasi yang menurutku, lebih sakit daripada cesar itu sendiri.

And there is no manual in it. Orang hanya bilang soal begadang, tapi tidak ada yang bilang dibutuhkan ilmu dan kreativitas untuk menidurkan this tiny human being. Kemaren tidurnya harus diayun-ayun, hari ini ditaruh di dada, ntar malem harus sambil pegang nenen, besok paginya harus ditepuk-tepuk pantatnya. Segala ilmu di internet telah kupelajari untuk menidurkan si kecil, ada yang berhasil sekali kemudian tidak berhasil..jadi seperti lagunya Maroon 5 Nothing Last Forever.

Dua hal itu termasuk yang terberat, menyusui dan mengatur jadwal tidur bayi. TAPI, yang lebih menakutkan adalah bertanggung jawab akan kesehatan makhluk kecil yang kamu cintai melebihi apapun.

Sebulan pertama, halodoc is my best friend. Berkali-kali bertanya ke dokter tentang sesuatu yang sebenarnya aku tahu jawabannya. Dari warna poop, tali pusar yang tak kunjung puput, biang keringat, kenaikan berat badan yang seret dan masih banyak lagi.

TENANG, INI AKU MENGELUH BIAR GA STRESS, BUKAN BERARTI AKU GA BERSYUKUR. Karena postpartum depression is no joke! Mungkin hampir seluruh wanita yang melahirkan di satu titik mengalami depresi.

Begitu banyak triggernya. Hormon, sleep depriviation, ga ada support dari sekitar, clueless-ga paham ini bayi kenapa nangis terus dan masih banyak lagi. Banyak wanita yang mengalami namun memilih diam, entah karena malu atau memang tidak ada yang mendengarkan.

Ada saat malam-malam panjang bayiku tidak bisa tertidur (really, she needs our help to sleep), dari jam 10 malam sampe jam 4 pagi, berhari-hari. Segala macam cara sudah kulakukan agar ia tertidur, tapi gagal, bahkan putingku sampe kehilangan harga diri dan bentuknya saking lamanya dia kunyah agar dia tertidur. Aku menangis saat dia ikut menangis. Dan waktu melihat kulkas, terpikir, 'ni bayi taruh kulkas tidur kali ya'. IYA SEJAHAT ITU PIKIRANNYA!

Besoknya, aku curhat sama suami kalau menjaga bayi dari jam 10 malam sampe jam 4 pagi adalah tugas yang tidak mungkin, walaupun mau bagaimana lagi, aku adalah pabrik susunya-tapi dukungan moril suami sangat dibutuhkan dan untungnya pikiran aneh-aneh langsung musnah.

Kupikir, tantangan terbesar ibu baru adalah dirinya sendiri dan lingkungan sekitarnya. Ketakutan dan tekanan dari luar membuat isi kepalanya seperti panci presto isi bandeng di dalamnya. Bisa meledak, atau bisa melebur.

Hal itu juga salah satu alasan aku menceritakan isi kepalaku dalam tulisan ini, setelah sekian lama hiatus menulis. Dibutuhkan lebih dari 1 bulan lamanya untuk menulis ini karena sesulit itu menemukan waktu beberapa jam menjadi diri sendiri sejak melahirkan.

Selain itu, menulis ini juga untuk menyebarkan kepada khalayak bahwa ibu setelah melahirkan masih membutuhkan dukungan (selama ini fokus ke ibu hamil). Alasan mengapa banyak ibu yang tidak berani bercerita atau menulis tentang Post Partum Depression atau baby blues adalah TAKUT DI-JUDGE. Yang mana biasanya 'pengadilan' itu datang dari orang terdekat seperti orang tua, suami, atau sahabat.

Jadi, jika ada ibu yang baru melahirkan tiba-tiba menjadi pendiam atau 'menghilang', jangan dijudge, langsung saja tawarkan bantuan untuk menggendong atau KIRIM MAKANAN ENAK KESUKAAN DIA. Apalagi sampe keluar kata : "Aku dulu waktu abis lahiran dinikmatin banget, anak kan anugerah!" atau : "Ah baru anak satu, rasain ntar kalo anak 3!" IYA, KERAK TEMPE!SIAPA JUGA NANYA!

Seriously, don't! Jangan jadi wanita yang menjatuhkan wanita lain. Sama seperti setiap kehamilan berbeda, setiap anak juga beda.

By the way aku menulis ini saat anak usia 2 bulan dan dengan sangat memahami, petualangan ini masih panjang dan setiap usia selalu ada tantangannya.Ternyata seorang ibu terlahir bersama anaknya, bukan hanya sebuah quote yang cantik. Seorang ibu, sama seperti bayinya melakukan segalanya berdasarkan insting. Bayi memiliki insting awal untuk menghisap, sementara ibu memiliki insting primal untuk melindungi.

Salah satu nasihat yang selalu kuingat sebelum melahirkan dari temanku adalah "Akan sangat sulit mba, tapi dijalani hari demi hari aja, nanti ga kerasa tiba-tiba udah ga newborn..terus mbak pasti kangen."

Tidak terasa, 'boneka' tersayang ku udah 2 bulan, kayaknya baru kemaren matanya belekan karena ga bisa melek T_T.

Iyes, satu demi satu hari. No Rush. Kapan-kapan dilanjut lagi sambatnya.

My Year In Korea

2021-12-28T01:25:00.003-08:00

Jalanan di Seoul

Whoa!

Tidak terasa, sudah tiga kali musim dingin saya lalui di pusat peradaban K-pop, kota Seoul. Melihat ke belakang, ada begitu banyak hal sudah terjadi yang membuat saya merasakan ambivelansi terhadap kota ini.

Terkadang saya sangat menyukai tinggal di Seoul karena berbagai alasan sederhana, namun terkadang juga saya merasa culture clash yang membuat saya rindu Indonesia.

Beberapa waktu yang lalu, setelah dihajar macet berkali-kali di Jakarta, membuat saya melankolis dan memikirkan hari-hari berada di Seoul. Bukan berarti di Seoul tidak ada kemacetan, ada tapi jarang. Alas, momen-moment tersebut menerbangkan pikiran saya ke hidup selama di Korea. Ada beberapa hal yang saya rindukan dari Korea, dan mungkin akan terus saya rindukan dalam waktu yang lama. Sesuatu yang mungkin, I took it for granted selama tinggal di sana dan kesini-sini, ternyata ini yang paling dikangenin dari Korea!

1. Ruang Terbuka Hijau

Taman Bermain di Apartemen saat musim semi

Hal yang paling mencolok kehidupan di Seoul dibanding kota-kota lain di dunia, apalagi di Indonesia, adalah banyaknya Ruang Terbuka Hijau di setiap blok pemukiman. Pemerintahan Korea Selatan, terutama Seoul memiliki regulasi zonasi dimana salah satunya mewajibkan terdapat area terbuka hijau untuk menjaga ekosistem, estetika kota dan tempat bersosialisasi warganya. Kebijakan zonasi yang rigid ini berlaku untuk seluruh penggunaan lahan, dari pemukiman mahal, perkampungan murah, pusat komersial maupun CBD.

Di pemukiman tempat saya tinggal saja, tepatnya di halaman bawah apartemen, terdapat taman luas dilengkapi dengan playground. Jarak beberapa tower, terdapat mini forest dan playground lagi.

Kehidupan di taman itu paling indah saat musim semi. Di taman dekat apartemen, pohon sakura berbunga dan membentuk kanopi yang persis seperti potongan adegan dalam film anime pada saat musim semi! Di pertengahan april, bunga yang sama berguguran di sepanjang jalan membentuk karpet warna pink- putih yang membuat magical session saat angin meniupnya.

Bunga Sakura mulai muncul di apartemen

Kemudian, tidak jauh dari apartemen, menyeberang blok apartemen, ada taman yang berubah menjadi Eden saat summer. Dipenuhi tanaman lily yang berbunga serentak dan menciptakan aroma parfum Dior gratis sampai dengan jarak 200 meter.

Tak jauh dari taman, terdapat pusat kebugaran yang sering digunakan oleh penduduk usia lanjut untuk berolahraga. Sekitar 25 meter dari situ, mendaki sedikit ke arah perkampungan terdapat lapangan bulu tangkis, taman, paviliun dan pusat kebugaran yang berubah menjadi estranged forest saat musim dingin.

The Estranged Forest di tengah padatnya pemukiman

Tidak terbatas pada pemukiman modern seperti apartemen, namun di areal pemukiman lamapun, terdapat banyak taman bermain. Jika kamu notice di Drama Korea, seringkali setelah terjadi pertengkaran, sang pasangan akan bertemu di taman bermain dan mencoba berdamai. Ya, karena sedekat itu jalan kaki ke taman bermain!

Saya merasa, area terbuka hijau di Seoul bisa diakses oleh siapapun, dan yang paling penting kapanpun. Di malam saat musim dingin, ketika semua orang memilih berada di dalam rumah, kita bisa tetap pergi ke taman, duduk di shelter dan mungkin butuh untuk melepaskan kepenatan sejenak. Lampu di dalam taman pun juga terang sehingga terasa aman. Terkadang ada Wi-Fi public atau sarana olahraga. Hal ini agak berbeda dengan kesan taman di Indonesia, kalau tidak dipagar rapat, kadang sangat gelap sehingga kita tidak merasa aman jalan-jalan di sana.

Sehingga taman, adalah salah satu tempat favorit saya di Kota Seoul.

2. They love Books, Books, and Books

Perpustakaan di Daerah Jamsil

Salah satu hobi saya saat berada di Seoul adalah menjelajahi toko buku dan perpustakaan! Saat hari libur, toko buku akan sangat ramai seperti mall, banyak orang duduk di tangga-tangga untuk menghabiskan waktu sambil membaca buku. Tempat duduk di dalam toko buku pun mayoritas penuh saat weekend.

Favorit saya adalah mengunjungi section buku new release karena cover buku-buku di sini cakep banget!! Meskipun sedihnya saya tidak bisa beli karena tidak mengerti buku berbahasa Korea.

Tangga adalah salah satu spot favorit untuk membaca buku di Korea

Nah untuk perpustakaan, ketika saya bertanya ke orang local apakah ada yang menjadi member perpustakaan atau tidak? Sebagian besar orang menjawab iya! Sejujurnya, saya sendiri tidak menjadi member perpustakaan manapun saat ini, tapi dulu pernah banyak menjadi member perpustakaan saat kecil.

Perpustakaan publik di sana pun hampir hadir di setiap kecamatan dan beberapa, memiliki koleksi bahasa Inggris. What a gem!

Plus, perpustakaan dan toko buku di sini didandanin habis-habisan untuk menjadi tempat nongkrong yang cozy. Tapi nongkrong sambil baca buku!

Walaupun jika dilihat di subway atau bus sudah jarang orang membawa buku, namun ramainya toko buku saat weekend adalah salah satu tanda bahwa animo masyarakat memiliki minat baca yang tinggi.

Berdasarkan Statista, rata-rata buku yang dibaca oleh anak muda di Korea di tahun 2019 adalah sebanyak 14.4 buku per tahun, sementara di Indonesia sekitar 5-9 Buku per tahun (tahun 2017).

Walaupun tidak banyak toko yang menjual buku-buku bahasa inggris, namun tidak perlu khawatir kita bisa join di grup jual-beli orang asing di Korea dan bisa mendapat buku bekas yang extra murah.

3. They are fast like a lightning

Semua orang tahu kalau Korea adalah negeri Pali-pali atau dengan kata lain, cepet-cepet! Konon katanya, revolusi ekonomi dari negara sangat miskin menjadi negara makmur telah mendorong manusianya untuk bergerak lebih cepat, baik dalam antisipasi maupun reaksi. Time is money!

Apalagi saat pandemi Corona, sebutan "Pali-pali" menjadi semakin menunjukkan good crisis management karena saking terbiasanya mereka untuk bertindak cepat. Dari massive test, memangkas birokrasi menjadi 1 pintu sampai cepatnya tracing route pasien melalui transaksi kartu, cctv dan pengakuan pasien.

Bagi saya yang orangnya memang suka yang serba cepat, saya merasa sangat puas dari pelayanan restoran, public service bahkan jika ada komunikasi dengan partner bisnis yang orang Korea. Karena semua hal serba cepat jadi banyak hal disesuaikan dari kepraktisannya. Seperti pembayaran melalui kartu hampir diterima di seluruh toko kecil tanpa minimum pembayaran, penggunaan vending machine untuk memesan makanan di restoran bahkan dari pelayanan publik dimana biasanya memakan waktu maksimal 'hanya' 1 jam untuk antrian yang super panjang. Jadi, sangat jarang pemandangan, kita datang ke kantor kelurahan dan menemukan pegawai yang malas-malasan sambil maen game ketika sedang melayani kita.

Tradisi cepet-cepet pun juga diimplementasikan pada cara orang-orang menyetir di jalanan. Mereka suka ngebut! Dari Bus, taxi hingga kendaraan pribadi di jalanan. Semakin ke arah pesisir, pengemudi semakin memacu mobilnya di jalanan. Karena alasan ini, saya suka menghindari naik taxi kecuali terpaksa. Karena saat mereka ngebut, perut saya dikocok-kocok sampai mual.

Pernah saya cerita ke temen-temen orang Seoul tentang betapa ngebutnya pengemudi bus atau taxi, jawaban mereka adalah : wah, kalo mereka lambat, aku malah lebih pusing. HAHAHAHA. Ini adalah salah satu culture clash yang saya sukai dari Korea.

4. Transportasi publik yang murah dan terintegrasi

Bus di Seoul

Yes, it is arguably cheap! Tapi menurut saya, untuk transportasi yang sangat terintegrasi di kota maju, Seoul menawarkan transportation fare yang cukup murah.

Ongkos subway adalah sebesar KRW 1,250 atau sekitar IDR 15,000 sementara bus sebesar KRW 1,200-flat di Seoul metropolitan area. Jika misalnya saya naik bus Nomor 1234 dari apartemen ke area Gangnam, kemudian saya turun untuk membeli es krim selama kurang dari 1/2 jam di area gangnam, kemudian saya pulang naik subway line 6 ke apartemen saya, maka saya tidak perlu membayar ongkos pulang selama saya memakai karut transportasi yang sama.

Jadi meskipun kita berpindah moda atau transfer di halte / bus, ongkos transport akan flat di KRW 1,200 atau KRW 1,250 kecuali kita mengendarai public transport lebih dari sekian kilometer (sepertinya 20km) maka terdapat additional fare yang biasanya tidak banyak.

Rendahnya ongkos transport berlaku juga untuk taxi atau bus antar kota. Taxi dari bandara ke downtown Seoul bisa sebesar KRW 45,000 atau sekitar IDR 550,000.- (jarak 60km). Yes, it is arguably cheap jika dibandingkan saya naik taxi dari bandara Narita ke Shinjuku yang menghabiskan hampir IDR 3 juta untuk jarak 77 KM!

Untuk bus antar kota, rata- rata harganya sekitar 100 ribu sampai 400 ribu tergantung jarak dan kelas. Karena transportasinya yang cukup murah, menjelajahi semenanjung Korea dengan menggunakan public transport sangat mudah dan terjangkau jika kita mengeliminasi languange barrier!

Lebih-lebih, integrasi transportasi tidak hanya pada ongkos, halte bahkan sampai dengan waktu. Biasanya jadwal antara bus, dan kereta cukup sync. Dan lagi, halte bus di Seoul biasanya dilengkapi penanda yang menghitung mundur waktu kedatangan bus berikutnya, yang juga hampir selalu tepat!

5. They created goods considering the practicality.

Saat dine-in di sebuah restoran, terutama small business di Korea, di awal-awal saya agak bingung ketika makanan disajikan. Karena mereka menyajikan berbagai piring side dish, kemudian main menu dan gelas kosong untuk minum. Tidak ada sendok atau garpu, apalagi sumpit.

Ternyata, biasanya di meja makan tersebut, terdapat laci tempat menyimpan utensils dan tissue. Dikarenakan ruangannya sempit, jadi laci tersebut seperti kantong doraemon untuk menghemat space.

Selain laci di meja makan, banyak hal praktis yang saya temui di Korea, terutama jika mengunjungi Daiso. I know, mungkin beberapa benda sudah diexport ke Indonesia dan kita bisa menemukannya jika rajin banget stalking belanjaan di Shopee.

Tapi di sana, Daiso is the mecca of things-that-we-don't-know-it's-important-until-we-found-it. Dari tas tempat untuk memisahkan sampah, kaleng untuk sampah basah, penahan pintu, gantungan tanpa paku, lampu yang mendeteksi dari gerakan, handle pintu dengan kode dan masih banyak lagi.

Tidak hanya itu, fungsi-fungsi di dalam bangunan juga diperhatikan dengan baik agar ramah untuk digunakan, terutama di high-rise building. Di jalanan pun, ada penanda lampu merah dan hijau di aspal tempat zebra cross yang digunakan untuk memandu orang yang sibuk memegang hp sambil menyeberang. Atau payung besar yang dibuka tiap summer di titik-titik zebra cross, agar penyebrang bisa berteduh sebentar sambil menunggu lampu hijau.

Kenyamanan seperti ini, kadang mungkin terasa sepele bagi mereka yang bisa menikmatinya tiap hari.

6. They love branded items

Saya termasuk orang yang tidak peduli dengan brand sampai saya tiba di Korea. Hampir semua orang muda yang saya temui lebih menyukai barang-barang branded (atau mungkin tuntutan peers). Mungkin sama seperti di Indonesia, sebutan mbak-mbak SCBD yang lagi hits, di sana terdapat beberapa golongan status sosial seseorang dinilai dari branded items.

Saya lupa sebutan exactnya apa tapi kira-kira begini:

Golongan pertama adalah mereka yang masih menggunakan barang designer amerika seperti coach, Michael Kors, Tory Burch dan Marni (Marni dari Italy).
Golongan kedua adalah merk-merk yang saat ini sedang naik daun terutama di anak-anak muda seperti Thom Browne, Maison Margiela, Balenciaga, Miu-Miu. Biasanya, orang tua tidak terlalu aware dengan merk-merk ini
Golongan Ketiga adalah merk-merk yang lebih disukai orang dewasa-atau ngetrend 1 dekade yang lalu seperti Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Chloe, Mulberry. Design mereka pun lebih mapan mengikuti penggemarnya
Golongan Keempat adalah brand premium. Orang tua sudah dari dulu memakainya dan bisa diturunkan ke anak-anaknya. Lagipula anak muda bangga menggunakannya seperti Prada, Gucci, Burberry, YSL, Loewe
Golongan Kelima adalah brand yang prestise seperi Dior, Fendi, Bottega, Celine. Brand-yang mahal banget mungkin ga akan kebeli dengan gaji UMR Korea.
Golongan keenam adalah memang brand orang kaya seperti Chanel, Louis Vuitton dan Goyard
Golongan ketujuh adalah the mecca of the brand, yang para gaji UMR hanya bisa bertanya-tanya mengapa itu mahal banget, yaitu Hermes.

Perlu diketahui bahwa gaji UMR di Korea cukup tinggi, yaitu sekitar IDR 25 juta rupiah (UMR Indo IDR 4.5 jutaan atau seperlima!). Gaji sebesar itu tidak saja dinikmati pekerja pabrik tapi juga pekerja full time di entry level seperti teller bank, petugas call center, dan lain-lain. Dengan gaji setinggi itu, mereka memiliki purchasing power yang cukup tinggi. Jadi merk-merk di atas, sampai dengan golongan keempat, masih bisa dibeli oleh pegawai entry level dengan saving beberapa bulan.

Jadi, saya tidak tahu apakah itu adalah kebutuhan tersier atau primer bagi mereka. Namun, jika saya lihat selama ini, itu seperti kebutuhan primer. Membeli barang branded bukan lagi sebuah kemewahan, namun hal yang wajar.

Mungkin bagi kita, orang Indonesia, itu tuntutan hidup tidak masuk akal karena kita membandingkan dengan gaji yang terkredit tiap bulan ke rekening rupiah kita. Tapi bagi mereka, itu adalah barang-barang yang bisa mereka beli. Jadi wajar sekali saat di sana, saya naik bus dan melihat orang memakai Chanel. 98% saya yakin itu barang authentic, karena di sana siapapun, kaya atau miskin, naik public transport, kecuali para anggota keluarga chaebol yang mampu menyewa sopir pribadi.

Barang branded mungkin tidak terlalu mahal bagi mereka. Atau, jika ingin membeli barang branded dengan harga murah, bisa berbelanja di pasar loak barang branded atau toko-toko seperti pawnshop yang banyak tersebar di area Myeongdong, Gangnam dan Jong-no.

7. A super duper fast internet

5G Speed test di Korea, 593Mbps!

Salah satu hal paling favorit tinggal di Korea adalah jaringan internet tanpa gangguan 24 jam x 3.5 tahun (minus 2 hari) dengan kecepatan ultra fast.

Lagipula, hampir dimanapun selalu ada Wifi gratis baik yang disediakan pemerintah maupun local business, dengan kecepatan lumayan oke.

Salah satu joke yang sering saya lontarkan pada suami adalah ketika tiba-tiba ponsel saya tersambung Wi-fi public dan saya mengomel "duh pantes lelet, ternyata nyambung wifi," karena kecepatan internet 5G, bahkan tidak akan menyisakan jeda warna abu-abu ketika scroll down instagram.

Tapi memang ada barang, ada harga. Dengan kecepatan internet seperti kilat, pengguna harus membayar harga yang lumayan premium, apalagi jika dibandingkan dengan langganan paketan Three (3).

8. The best crispy chicken in da world!

BHC favoritku

HAL YANG PALING WAJIB DILAKUKAN SAAT KE KOREA SELATAN ADALAH COBAIN AYAM GORENG NYA!

Ayam goreng di Korea adalah the best in the world. KFC? merupakan kasta mid-low level dalam tahta kerenyahan ayam goreng di Korea.

Menurut mayoritas masyarakat korea, Ayam goreng terbaik dipegang oleh brand BB-Q kemudian BHC dan ada Kyochon di ranking 4 atau 5. Ayam BB-Q merupakan perpaduan antara kulit renyah dan daging yang gurih- dan lebih terasa ayam tradisional korea. Sementara BHC, merupakan KFC dengan kerenyahan, keenakan daging 3x lipat lebih enak! BHC bagi saya adalah the best!

Nah bagi mereka yang suka menyimpan ayam goreng sampai keesokan harinya, saya menyarankan Kyochon. Ayam Kyochon masih terasa renyah dan enak sampai hari ketiga!!! terutama yang honey!

Ayam goreng tersebut biasanya disajikan dalam potongan-potongan 1 ayam penuh dalam 1 kotak seharga antara 16,000-22,000 won. Memang kalau dimakan sendiri cukup banyak, tapi jika dinikmati bersama-sama sambil menikmati cola (atau beer jika orang lokal) adalah makanan terbaik saat nongkrong malam hari.

Sekali lagi, jika ke Korea, saya tidak menyarankan wajib makan bibimbap, bulgogi atau samgyetang -(ya mereka makanan tradisional sih tapi bisa dibeli di resto Koreadi Indonesia), tapi ayam goreng dari at least BB-Q, BHC atau Kyochon yang rasanya tidak ada duanya!

Oh ya, Kyo-chon ada di Indonesia tapi saya tidak pernah mencobanya. Sepertinya rasanya sedikit berbeda dengan di Korea...dan mungkin terlalu mahal jika dibandingkan kompetitornya di Indo.

9. Online Shopping ter-convenience

Mungkin ini dikarenakan saya tinggal di Korea saat online shopping benar-benar menggila dan ditambah dengan pandemi, jadi pengalaman yang saya dapatkan bintang lima.

Anyhow, di Korea Selatan terdapat banyak sekali situs belanja online, dan sepertinya semua chaebol memiliki portal online shopping dan menawarkan sistem points pada membershipnya, sebut saja SSF, SSG, GS-shop, e-mall shop, belum lagi Gmarket milik E-Bay, dan tentu saja favorit mayoritas penduduk Korea, Coupang.

Dalam kasus saya, karena tidak punya mobil di Korea, jadi berbelanja kebutuhan bulanan cukup merepotkan. Pertama, karena berat dan jalan menuju tower apartemen yang naik-turun dan sekitar 300 meter dari halte bus.

Alhasil, belanja apapun saya beli di Coupang. Serunya lagi, selain menjual seluruh barang yang ada termasuk sayur, daging halal, cabe sampai dengan tas branded, buku, lemari, sepeda, elektronik, mereka menyediakan layanan pengiriman cepat (namanya :roket) sehari dua kali.

Jika saya memesan sayur sebelum jam 9 malam, maka sebelum jam 7 pagi keesokan harinya harus sudah sampai di depan pintu apartemen. Banyak kasus, saya bisa terima jam 12 malam. Kemudian jika saya pesan sebelum jam 9 pagi maka saya bisa dapet sebelum jam 4 sore. Melebihi semua itu, bebas ongkir! Setiap bulan saya cukup berlangganan 2900 won atau sekitar 40 ribu, biasanya setara dengan 1 kali ongkos kirim di Korea. Lebih-lebih seluruh paket dimasukkan ke dalam packaging yang rapi dan selalu baru (kardus) atau jika memilih yang eco-friendly, tas cooler yang akan dikolek oleh kurir ketika dia mengirimkan paket baru ke alamat kita.

Meskipun semuanya dalam bahasa korea, namun platform coupang juga sangat user-friendly. Kita bisa mengetik barang yang sedang kita cari dalam bahasa inggris, mesin pencari pun tetap bekerja. Kecuali terdapat banyak barang yang mungkin susah dicari padanannya dalam bahasa inggris, sehingga jumlah barang yang ditampilkan mengerucut.

Tidak terbatas pada coupang, mungkin karena penduduk Korea yang relatif kecil dibandingkan dengan kompetisi antar online shopping, jadi sistem membership yang ditawarkan sangat menguntungkan bagi pelanggan. Dan lagi, harga di online biasanya 10-20% lebih murah dibanding di outlet.

So much win for customer!

10. Autumn

Langit Autumn

Dibandingkan musim lainnya, musim gugur di Korea adalah yang terbaik. Saat pepohonan di jalanan berubah warna menjadi kuning dan tak lama, guguran daun membuat karpet emas sepanjang jalan. Selain itu, di musim ini, langit Korea menjadi sangat bersih dan biru seolah polusi menjauh dari Korea.

Meskipun mayoritas jalanan utama di Korea dipenuhi tanaman Ginkgo-yang membuat musim gugur magically golden, namun terdapat daerah pegunungan yang dipenuhi dengan pepohonan maple, si daun merah. Tak jarang perpaduan dua warna itu begitu cerah dan mencolok, dipadu dengan suhu udara yang cukup segar (walaupun dingin) membuat musim ini menjadi alasan bagi penduduk untuk memulai banyak hal. Hiking, tracking, jalan-jalan ke taman, piknik di bawah pohon sebelum udara terlalu dingin saat memasuki winter.

Summer di Korea seperti di timur tengah, Winter terlalu dingin seperti di Siberia, sementara spring-yes indah dengan bunga sakura bermekaran, namun masa-masa ini, polusi udara paling parah karena penggunaan heater secara masal di seluruh negeri jadi cukup sulit melihat langit yang cerah. Dan, udara saat spring, terutama di bulan mei, sudah mulai pengap karena masuk ke summer.

11. Skincare mania

Merk-merk Korea

Ever wonder kenapa orang Korea terlihat lebih fresh dan dewwy kulitnya? Saat di Korea, saya kadang bisa membedakan mana orang China, Korea atau Jepang dari penampilan mereka.

Orang Korea lebih menyukai penampilan yang nude dengan menonjolkan kekenyalan dan kemulusan kulit wajah yang dipadu dengan bibir warna terang. Ini semua karena skin care-routine heavily promoted di Korea.

Jika di Indonesia, banyaknya Indomart dan Alfamart mungkin bisa diadu dengan kantor pos, maka di Korea bisa diadu antara jumlah coffee shop dengan toko menjual skin care.

Kadang saat bosan, ingin belanja, saya tidak pergi ke minimarket tapi ke toko skin care seperti Olive Young, La La La atau Nature Republic yang bisa ditemukan at least 1 di tiap blok. Di sana, kita bisa cuci mata dengan masker varian baru sampai dengan koyo teknologi baru. Kadangpun, ga perlu beli apa-apa sudah happy.

Anyhow, dari kegiatan mencoba-coba skin care, saya jadi teredukasi bagaimana merawat kulit agar awet muda. Tujuan perawatan kulit di korea pun diutamakan tidak untuk perubahan drastis seperti lebih putih, namun sejalan waktu lebih mulus dan awet muda.

Dari hasil perawatan tersebut, mari kita lihat bertahun-tahun kemudian apakah memang wajah saya se awet muda Son Hye Jin hahaha.

So far, ini adalah hal-hal yang paling saya sukai di Korea. Along the way, mungkin saya akan menambahkan lagi saat teringat atau mulai merindukan kota ini. Sebagai disclaimer, ini adalah pendapat pribadi dari pengalaman saya tinggal 3.5 tahun di Korea Selatan. Pengalaman yang lain mungkin berbeda sehingga pendapatnya juga berbeda.

MUST VISIT PLACE TO ENJOY AUTUMN IN SOUTH KOREA PART III

2020-12-16T00:22:00.008-08:00

This year is surely different because of the ongoing pandemic that forces us to stay at home. While the infected patients are up and down in South Korea, but there is a time when we able to travel to the neighboring cities, especially when the social distancing rules was relaxed.

During the relaxed period, I took the opportunity to go to several places near Seoul to enjoy the autumn season. Actually, some of those places have been visited by me and my husband last year or the year before. But, the amusing thing is always something new in there, so we can have a new point of view to review it.

I will describe each place based on the date I visited chronologically.

1. NH Anseong Farmland

Famous Shooting Place

NH Anseong Farmland is a huge park combining a cattle farm, flower garden, and amusing park. It is very popular among local Koreans because one of the best places to visit with their children. The flower garden especially changes seasonally depending on the weather.

During spring, the garden will be yellow-colored with Canola Flowers. Meanwhile, from August to September, the violet shadows the hills with Lavenders. And on the Autumn, the hill blossomed with cosmos flowers sparkling yellow, orange, and pink. Also, Pink Muhly competes, pinkening the hill with a pine tree on the top. A picturesque sight.

The park is very vast but don't worry! we can rent a bike or just walk to enjoy the nice weather. Many families chose to rent a family bike so their children won't get tired.
The highlight of this place is, of course, a huge farm of cosmos parks. It is so huge, with about 4 different hills that remind me of a beautiful sight in Makoto Shinkai's anime. One of my favorite hills is in the back area with the yellow cosmoses because it is quieter than other hills.

Pink Cosmos

Yellow and Orange Cosmos

Pink Cosmos See Thru between the pink muhly

The land is located in Anseong, Gyeonggi Province. How to get there is actually tricky because no direct public transportation can take you there. But it is possible with several transfers but don't get discouraged yet, it is not complicated.

How to get there: From Seoul or Yongsan Station take a train to Pyeongtaek Station (Semaul or Mugunghwa). Arrive there, take bus number 17 and take off at Gongdo Terminal (about 20 minutes). After that, take a taxi to the NH Anseong Farmland. It is 10 minutes ride cost KRW 4000-7000. To come back, usually, the land provides a shuttle bus to the Gongdo Terminal. But due to the pandemic, it is no longer in service. So, take a taxi to go back to Gongdo. There is a taxi waiting area in the gate, or you can hail a KakaoTaxi thru an app.

2. Cosmos Park, Olympic Park, Seoul

Seoul Olympic Park is one huge stadium and park complex located in Jamsil, eastern Seoul. This complex is very famous because there are always flower blossoming during the season.

In early autumn, the rose garden in the park becomes less flower but beside it, the cosmos flowers are sparkling yellow coloring the hills.

This section is not too huge, but still very beautiful. Its close proximity made it one of favorite place to be visited by Seoul Citizen during autumn. At the weekend, usually, the parks are peaked with visitors. But do not worry! there is always a spot to take a picture!

How to get there: the nearest station is Olympic Park Station (line no.5). Get off at Olympic Park Station then exit at number 3. Walk straight to the southeast then just before the intersection, you will see Rose Plaza Gate.

3. Nami Island

Here is the crazy thing, I've been gone to Nami Island many times, every different season but no, nothing can beat Nami Island during Autumn Season. Not only because of the canopy of Ginko Tree or yellow carpet in the ground, but there is always something new in the season that made me marvel at the beauty of this huge park.

Nami Island may be popular because of Winter Sonata. However, the various vegetation in a huge park has created a surreal picture of the perfect autumn in a country. A traditional house with a Maple tree background, a row of giant trees that made us feel wondrous, dense pine forest, a frozen lake and a bite of sweet potato.

Huge Ginkgo Tree

Off-beaten walking track

Pine Forest

There are a lot of activities we can choose from on the island. ride a bike, a boat, a train, or just leisure the island by walking. And there is also an option for you when to visit the island. Either during the peak or slightly after the peak, when the ground changes to the golden carpet. Both ways are superb. Usually, I visit there in the first week of November or the second week of November.

How to get there: Take ITX train from Yongsan to Gapyeong Station then change to city bus (KRW 1,200) just across the station or take a taxi for more convenience (KRW 5,000).

4. Seoul Grand Park

I Seoul U at Grand Park

Like Nami Island, I've been to Seoul Grand Park so many times regardless of the season. Summer for Rose Garden, Spring for Cherry Blossom, and Autumn for the foliage.

I think nothing can beat the beauty of a zoo in its natural habitat, surrounded by mountains, a lake, dense forest, and an Autumn blue sky.

Seoul Grand Park is my favorite place in Seoul because I love the combination of faunas and floras. The Lake is so serene that ride a gondola and enjoy the intermittent sound of birds and the howling wind feels like we come back to nature for good, even we are in the outskirt of Seoul.

Inside the Zoo

The zoo is quite big and house for many different animals. One of my favorite animals are the wild, the mighty lion, bears and pumas. Elephant as well!

I always ride the gondola for one way but two trip. So I ascend from the park to the end point of zoo, then I walk back to the park. It takes about 4 kilometers one way, but if you are too tired, you can ride elephant tram (not actual elephant of course!) for KRW 2,000 only.

The Mountain

The Deers

Since I've been share the information regarding Seoul Grand Park so many times, please refer to previous post for detail information.

Seoul Grand Park Spring

Seoul Grand Park Autumn

How to get there: Take Subway Line 4 and get off at Seoul Grand Park Station.

5. Asan Ginkgo Road

The Enhaeng Namu-Gil

I think for the Ginkgo Road across the Korea, nothing can beat the Asan Ginkgo Road or famous called as Enhaeng Namu-Gil.

The Ginkgo trees, transform into sunny yellow color during early November and stretched along 2 kilometers ( I guess). Since the sight is strikingly beautiful, it is attract many peoples to visit and take a picture. That's why, I suggest to arrive in the morning to avoid the crowds.

Side by side with the river

Empty in the early morning

There are lot of cafes open from 10.00 am along the street. If you didn't want enjoy the coffee, you can just sit and take tons of photos on the bench along the way. Or later, in the afternoon, when the crowds gathering, you can enjoy local shows during the weekend.

Likewise, this is my favorite yellow autumn in Korea.

How to get there: Take KTX/ Mugunghwa from Yongsan/ Seoul Station to Onyang Oncheon Station. From there, you can take a bus no. 240,731 or 730. Easier, from the station you can take a taxi for less KRW 5000.

5. Samcheong-ro

Samcheong-ro

This year has been hard for us to traveling around because of the pandemic. The situation itself was fluctuating and worry us so much. That's why I didn't go much farther from the Seoul Metropolitan Area to enjoy the autumn at the weekend. Plus, I've been so busy with zoom meetings even during the weekend. I want to visit the palaces but have no time and heard that the crowds are huge in there. That's why I canceled it. Nonetheless, I manage to visit a new place in Seoul during wandered around with my bicycle.

It is Samcheong-ro, the street beside the Gyeongbok Palace. Yes, it is a street with a lot of cafes and stores. During the peak, the street was covered with yellow leaves like golden carpets. Sometimes, the wind blows the leaves that made a theatrical sight. That also the reason I fall from my bike because of a pothole covered by the leaves.

We stopped after I fell

I also visit Ilsan Lake Park but unfortunately the foliage has been finished. But it is a beautiful Park though, also shooting place for Lee Dong Wook's drama The Tale of a Gumiho.

What's left in the Ilsan Lake Park

Not enough?

Please read another blog post about autumn in Korea :

Part I

Part II

Weekend Gateway at Yeosu, the Coastal City

2020-07-13T19:33:00.002-07:00

Have you ever heard about Yeosu? Yeosu is a city located in the southern part of the Korea Peninsula, about more than 400 kilometers from the Capital, Seoul.

Yeosu is quite famous back to 2012 when they host the World Expo. A special Expo complex built near to the harbor which transforms into popular tourist destinations up until now.

And for Korean Drama Lovers, Yeosu was filming-location of Bae Suzy's drama Uncontrollably Fond back in 2016.

I visited Yeosu in mid-June because the COVID-19 spread in South Korea has been slowed down and I need to go outside of Seoul. I have canceled two overseas trips during February and March because of COVID-19 and really need to make a trip to clear my mind.

So, Yeosu is one of the destinations that I've been eyeing for a long time (2017 to be exact).

To go there from Seoul is quite easy, just hop on KTX Train from Seoul Station to Yeosu Expo Station for 2.5 hours. Or just fly with local airlines for a 1-hour trip. I took the first option.

So what's in Yeosu?

Aside from the blue beach, there are several tourist attractions for local and foreigner in Yeosu, I describe here based on my chronological visit:

1. Teddy Bear Museum, Yeosu

My Land of Happiness

There are several Teddy Bear Museum in South Korea including in Jeju and Seoul. Yes, the Biggest one is in Jeju but every museum has a unique theme so it worth to be visited. Teddy Bear Museum at Yeosu is a bit smaller but still enjoyable. Most of all I love teddy bears.

The highlight Teddy Museum in Yeosu is the teddy bear painting portrayed famous painting like Renoir.

Me, the understudy of Dali

Portraying Russian History

And there is a lot of other famous characters such as Mahatma Gandhi, Genghis Khan, and many more!

This place is so picturesque that you want to capture many photos inside! The ticket fare is about KRW8,000, cheaper compare to other Teddy Bear museums.

At the exit, you can visit the gift store and found a limited edition teddy bear that similar to Prince Lee Shin's in Princess Hour! It is so cute!

You can spend 1 hour in the museum just to cool off if the sun blazing outside!

2. Yeosu Cable Car

From The Teddy Bear Museum located in the Yeosu Expo complex, I walk along the coastline to the Cable Car Station. I heard that the view from Cable car at night is a killer, but I have another plan for tonight, so I decided to visit during the daylight.

I walked about 1.3 kilometers from the museum, but it is okay because the sun is shady and the wind rises frequently.

Even during the COVID season, I can say that the place is quite crowded. There were a lot of families who came there especially to ride the Cable Car.

There are two options for cable car: the crystal floor or ordinary car. I prefer the crystal but it is a bit expensive, about KRW 22,000 for returns ticket per person. If I am not mistaken, the ordinary car cost KRW 18,000 returns.

The Famous Bridge

The queue is quite long, but once I hop on and the car start ascending above the sea, the view is spectacular!

I remember the almost same view (but this one better) back when I visited Kobe, Japan. I must say that crystal car is worth it because you can see the blue sea below your feet.

The viewfinder in your camera also screaming joyously, they transform like a drone!

Still view from the Cable Car

I must say that the cable car is a must-visit in Yeosu. It is the highlight of my trip!

Once I arrive at the other end, I chill out at a cafe for several hours because of the heat. I took pictures from the scenic view from the 3rd floor before deciding to go back to the coastal area.

We can go back to the island via bus or ride back the Cable Car. I decided on the latter one because one trip is not enough for me!

Personally, I think Yeosu Cable Car is a must-visit when you are in Yeosu.

3. Odong Island

The South Sea

After riding back via Cable Car, my next destination is the famous Odong-do. There is a pathway that crosses the ocean to reach the small island, maybe about 1 km long. Not as long as the Banpo Bridge though.

Summer in Yeosu is surprisingly mild. Not too hot or too cold in winter. The sea breeze brings a freshness that you can enjoy while walking around the island. So it is nice to walk between the main island to Odongdo together with many other people.

I read somewhere that the island is a home for Camellia blossom. The Camellias begin to bloom in November and color the entire island in scarlet until April the following year. The striking beauty of Odongdo made this spot so popular as dating place among couples.

Since I came during summer in June, there is no camellia in the scene but the greenery is enough to enjoy the shade, oxygen, and the sounds of a wave crashing the coral. There is a famous lighthouse that unfortunately closed during the Covid-19 Pandemic.

The Light House

I spent 2 hours on the island. Visiting almost every spot in there, the cave, the lighthouse, bamboo shade, and many more.

Bamboo Forest

There is a cafe near the lighthouse to drink whilst enjoy the shade in the mid of summer. The sound of the sea is like soothing medicine to calm your nerves. Even many people visit the island, it didn't feel crowded.

Frankly, this is one of my favorite things from Korea that I can visit nature spots whilst exercising without leaving the comfort of public facilities. The island is sparkling clean, there is a clean restroom, a nice traditional coffee shop and people mind their own business.

I spent almost 3 hours walking and exploring the island. Come back to the main island, I purchased a ticket of car train to cross the pathway. It is cost about KRW 2,000, they go every 20 minutes back and forth from Odongdo to the Main Island.

4. The Big O Show

Soaking wet because of my sweat, we decided to come back to the hotel and freshen up before visiting our next destination.

The Big O Show is a laser and waterfall technology combine with catchy songs and a good story. The show started right after the sunset and last for 1.5 hours.

Actually, we don't know about the show but we saw the O construction and tribune on the coast part. We decided to watch it because it is highly rated in Naver.

And as I expected, it does not disappoint me at all. It is not spectacular but enjoyable! If you love Song of the Sea in Singapore, then this one is the best competitor.

The Character

The show narrated in South Korean Language but if you cannot understand the language, it is okay! by seeing the picture you will understand what is it all about. Most of all, the song is catchy and stuck in your head for several days

Actually, I forgot how much the entrance ticket. It is depending on your seat, but no need to buy the VIP ticket, just ask the locket keeper, which seat is the best (and cheapest) one, she will choose it for you and it is correct!

View from my seat

Since after the show, all the shops already closed, make sure you have your dinner before watching the show!

Right after the show, we were so tired and decided to come back to the hotel.

5. Hyengiram Hermitage

Stairs to the Temple

If you watched the Korean Drama closely, there are some drama took place at the beautiful temple at the top of the cliff and bordered by the sea, the famous Hyengiram Hermitage.

Early morning (at 09.00 am which too early for me), we decided to go to Hyengiram Hermitage which located about one hour away from Yeosu. We took a cab from the Yeosu Expo Station, simply it is because we don't want to arrive too late at the temple (you know the later, hotter).

Traveling time by taxi is about 40 minutes and cost about KRW 26,000. Meanwhile, if we go by bus, Naver informed us that it will take more than 60 minutes.

We arrive there quite early to beat the crowd, but in fact, there are crowds already, but not many as the later.

The Budha

South Korea is a mountainous country, in which almost 70% of its land belongs to the mountain. And almost in every mountain, there is a beautiful Buddhist temple located there. Though Budha is not the biggest religion right now, I think if we trace back to history, before the King Sejong period, Budha is the main religion in the country. Christianity came later after the west come to the peninsula.

Since it is located up in the hill, the road to the temple is pretty steep. Not long but very steep. I think I took the wrong path because it is very quiet.

But the path is beautiful! Since it is a rocky mountain, we passed by a small gap between the big rocks which dark and wet. I am a bit afraid there will be bats in there because you know, coronavirus made me paranoid.

the gap between the rock

And once we arrived, the scenery is spectacular. There is a cafe near to the temple but if you think the cafe is too progressive in the middle of the nature scene, then you can just sit on the bench and enjoy the view.

The view

We spent one hour at the top and come back after that (not including the hiking time). Afterward, we took a bus near to the temple and back to Yeosu. Well, riding the bus is also totally worth it because the scenery from your window is beautiful. No apartment sights-which mostly dominated Korea nowadays. And in fact, the bus trip only took about 50 minutes to the city.

We have lunch in the city and checking out the famous General Yi statue (which no bigger than the one in Gwanghwamun). After lunch, we decided to proceed with our last destination.

Temple at Hyangiram Hermitage

6. Hanwha Aqua Planet Yeosu

The curious turtle

Actually, we are not too interested to visit the aquarium but we have time to kill before our train to Seoul.

The entrance ticket is quite expensive on the spot, so we bought the ticket via Trazy which 50% cheaper and we think it worth it.

In fact, I love it there! I always love animals and zoo but I have the paranoid to see the legless, long sea creature that I feared the most (cannot mention the name here).

The aquarium is a three-story exhibition which has quite a lot of sea majestic creature like a famous couple of Beluga or white whale. The Beluga is so huge that looks straight from the fairy tale. They seem active but with that size, they keep dancing in the water tank. I wonder how they feel If they have an option to dance in the sea.

I spent like almost half-hour watching they keep repeating their movement in a limited space and felt unnecessary sad for them. Don't get me wrong, they are beautiful and I am happy to have a chance to watch them. But they are so huge, I wonder are they feel being trapped? I hope not.

Additionally, what I love the most from the aquarium is I can see a lot of sea mammals and of course penguin. Meanwhile, the fish collection is quite various but not as immersing as the sea mammals.

Penguins

Huge Manta Ray (they have a smiling face)

Piranha

We spent 2 hours at the Aquarium and have a really good time.

After that, we come back to Seoul and have 2.5 hours ride via train.

For weekend gateway, I think Yeosu is one of the best choices in Korea. There are a lot of interesting spots to visit! Or If you visit Korea and want to visit other than Seoul or Busan, then Yeosu is your third choice!

See you on my next trip!

Winter Wonderland in South Korea

2020-04-26T23:32:00.000-07:00

South Korea in the winter is surely as cold as a freezer. With temperature sometimes reached minus twenty degrees Celcius, people wouldn't want to go everywhere instead of hiding behind the blanket and drink a cup of cocoa.

But what if we have a choice to explore the peninsula under the vision of Winter Wonderland?

Yes, winter in Korea is bone-chilling-cold with a low average of snowfall, but that makes people more creative to invite more visitors.

Along December and January, besides the come-alive of the ski resort, some places decorate themselves and make a light festival.

There is a lot of light festival in South Korea, but I will introduce the famous two.

Garden of Morning Calm at Gapyeong

Love Tunnel

This private garden is very famous among Korean Drama Lovers, especially during Spring or Autumn whereas colorful flowers blooming or red and yellow leaves paint the horizon.

Since most of the plants are gone 'bald' in the winter, the garden management held The Light Festival during the winter.

The colorful lantern and neons shaped into a romantic mood and transform the garden into Winter Wonderland.

A colorful House as a background

A Colorful house that reminds us of Home Alone Scene, white snow in the garden, a sea of lights, a tunnel of love, teddy bear lights, and most of all, the stairway to heaven are what we love the most from the garden.

Sea of Light

a Church and a Stairway to Heaven

Unfortunately, when I was there in the middle of January, the temperature has dropped into minus twelve degrees Celcius at night and I forgot to bring a hand-warmer pad. That's why it was almost impossible for me to take a lot of pictures there.

I just take some pictures using my iPhone, even I don't have an urge to take a selfie. Too cold.

The Real Winter Wonderland

The Colorful Garden

a Garden in the paradise

Since Gapyeong is a mountain area that makes there cooler than Seoul, please don't forget to wear your thickest jacket, shawl, hat, warm pad, and gloves. Or else, you will end up like me, spending almost one and half hour in the cafe to warm my self and only an hour to wander around.

How to get there: There is a Gapyeong City Tour Bus from Cheongpyeong Station. However, the bus only runs until 18.00. The best way is to join an open trip via KLOOK or Trazy.

Admission Ticket: KRW 9,500

Herb Island Light Festival at Pocheon, Gyeonggi-do

Just like Garden of Morning Calm, Herb Island is a vast private garden that sublimes into a beautiful winter wonderland during Winter Season.

Usually started in January and last until April every year, Herb Island brings the theme of the merriness of Christmas.

During daylight, this garden function is a botanical garden. There is a huge indoor garden with more than 180 different type of Mediterranean herbs and several benches for the visitor to enjoy the garden.

Once the sun has set, the land has changed into a beautiful lighting festival. From the church, a Mediterranean building that operated as souvenir and coffee shop, little Venice, or just a maze.

Just across the church we can sit and enjoy the light performance with a back sound of Christmas music just as Last Christmas, All I want from Christmas is you.

a Unicorn

Before Sunset at the Mediterranean building

Another Tunnel of Love

This garden is established in 1998 with focuses on growing Mediterranean herbs. The garden is so huge with complete facilities including Herb Museum, Living & Herb Exhibition hall, Herb Restaurant, a cafe, a bakery, Aroma Therapy Center, Venetian Village, Mini Zoo, and an outdoor performance hall.

There are also pensions with each equipped with whirlpool spa facilities.

The Zoo with lot of donkey

The Maze

The Pension

This garden is so huge that you can spend 3- 4 hours of your day to visit every spot in the garden.

The best time to visit is at 4 PM. The first route is visiting the indoor herb garden because once it gone dark, you cannot enjoy the beauty of the garden optimally. At 6 PM, please walk to the light festival area and enjoy the light dancing rhythmically with the song.

After that, enjoy a coffee in the cafe or go to the restaurant for dinner, then just stroll around the Venetian village and the rest unexplored area up to 8 pm.

I went there together via open trip Pliko at Facebook, but I read in the brochure, there are shuttle buses from City Hall Station at Seoul. For detail of Shuttle bus, please visit here

How to go there :
Soyosan Station (Seoul Subway Line 1).
Take Bus 57, and get off at Samjeong-ri.
Go straight on Samcheongol-gil Street to arrive at Herb Island.

So, between twos, I personally didn't choose which one is my favorite. I love both garden so I recommend you to visit the closest one to your destination during winter. If you are in the Gapyeong area, then please visit Morning Garden Calm or if you are in the Pocheon area, don't stop yourself to visit Herb Island.

Both gardens can be your alternative to visiting Korea during Winter instead of playing ski.

Must Visit Place to Enjoy Autumn in South Korea Part II

2020-02-10T04:25:00.001-08:00

Whoa, it is my second Autumn in Seoul and I really wanted to plan it carefully according to my plan! But this year's Autumn super late compared to last year. The summer lasted longer, the temperature fleeting in 20 degrees Celsius, the leaves wouldn't start to change the colors.

Also the government's autumn peak prediction this year was quite off. I went to Bukhansan, a week later than the prediction, yet the Fall Foliage was not there.

Even though this year Autumn is a bit messed up but I managed to get some places, by coming two weeks later than the prediction. What an odd! haha.

So let's start to visit the Autumn Spot in Korea!

1. Jamwon Han-gang Park

Along the Han River line, there are a lot of beautiful parks that shine differently each season depending on the plant grows there. Between the famous Banpo Bridge and Hannam Bridge, there is Pink- Muhly Park that usually starts to change color when the weather got cooler. Not exactly at Autumn, but usually during early October.

The Park is not big, but quiet enough to take a lot of pictures without being disturbed.

Pink Muhly

2. October 26th, Daedunsan National Park

The Famous Red Bridge

Daedunsan National park is one of the famous Autumn destinations in Korea. Located in Jeolla province, it is about two and half hour ride by bus or car from Seoul.

Hiking in Daedusan is quite energy draining because the stairs are steeps and thousands of them. The most famous sight is the red bridge that erects almost 70 degrees, connecting between two peaks. The suspension bridge is shaking whenever the strong wind blows, so it is an adrenaline-climb.

But the view on the top is amazing. Vast green landscape and blue sky, just remind us how small we are as humans.

Inside the Cable Car

To reach the bridge, we will need to ride the cable car that usually gets crowded during the autumn season. The waiting line can take 40 minutes to ride. Then we will need to climb hundreds of stairs to see this view.

Landscape at Daedusan

As you can see, the trees are not fully color changed, some areas are still green because of late Autumn. And The yellow dust is quite significant in 2019.

3. November 1st, Olympic Park

Trees at Olympic Park

Stay in Seoul and didn't want to go outside of the town during the early autumn season? then you need to go to the eastern part of Seoul, the Jamsil area to be exact.

Jamsil area is famous during the held of Olympic in South Korea. There is a big stadium built in there and even there is no more Olympic, but the exact facility is still one of the crowd destinations for just strolling or enjoy the afternoon.

Since it is a big stadium, the place is full of beautiful trees that start to change colors during Autumn. One of the most beautiful spots in the street outside the exit of Mongchontoseong Station. There is a line of Ginko tree that will fully yellowed when peak season.

Not far from the pedestrian, there is also a beautiful pond. You can just sit in the stairs watching the pond and accompanied by your spouse, or just the black raccoon that usually popped up uninvited.

The Pond

4. November 2nd, Seoul Grand Park

Like I told you in the previous post, Seoul Grand Park is one of the best gems at Seoul that transforms beautifully during both Autumn and Spring Season. The close proximity from Seoul makes Seoul Grand Park is one of the must-visit spots during the teen temperature.

Just enjoy the cable car or walking around the zoo is the best you can do.

I will not explain more, just see the pictures, please.

The Ridiculously beautiful Lake

Stroll Around the Zoo

Elephant approval

My happy face

5. November 9th, Naejangsan

Naejangsan in Autumn

Naejangsan National Park is the top-rated as the most beautiful place to visit in South Korea during autumn. No kidding, there are thousands of different varieties of maple trees that burst out-red during the season. There are a maple corridor, cable car, and a super beautiful pond with a pavilion in the middle.

Since it is beautiful, this place is super crowded during the peak season. Considering the location is far away from Seoul (about 4 hours ride with the jam), you will need to go in the earliest morning so you still can have time to queue the cable car before back to Seoul.

I've been there twice but I still don't have time to ride the cable car. Plus, this year I arrived a bit early than the peak season.

But it is still worth it. Still one of my favorite autumn spots in Korea.

Naejangsan maple tunnel

Still yet fully red

6. November 10th, Seoul Forest

Me at Seoul Forest

Actually, Seoul Forest is recommended by my colleague at the office. He said that it is one of the best chill-out spots in Seoul and transforms into a magical place during the spring. But I tried my luck during autumn since Seoul Forest is a very huge place with a lot of vegetation.

There are so many entrances at Seoul Forest but the best one at Autumn is near to exit 8. It is like mini Nami Island. So if you don't have a lot of time to go out of the town, just visit Seoul Forest and chill out in there. On the plus side, there are few tourists here, usually, only local peoples visit the park so it is more comfortable.

Ginkgo Forest

7. Namsan Hiking Trail, 16th November

View from Namsan Tower

I think this is the highlight of my Autumn experience in 2019. It is super beautiful and I found an off-beaten track that connects Namsan tower to the Namsan Botanical Garden through the mountain.

At first, I went to the Namsan Tower and enjoy the colorful hills and Odaeng in my right hand. Then descending, my initial destination is Namsan Botanical Garden, but in the middle, I found the hiking trail through the mountain. I just forget the main road and follow the path yet I found a paradise on my own.

The path is not long, maybe just 1-kilo meter. But the scenery is untouchable. The maple canopy, the smells of woods and the fallen maple leaves. Once I arrive at the Namsan Botanical Garden, I found the garden is a carpet of yellow leaves. So beautiful!

the natural Yellow Carpet

Of Course, I must take a photo

Exiting the garden, my adventure is not finished, the pedestrian along the Sowol-ro is super beautiful. You can even walk another 3 kilometers to reach Myeongdong and enjoy the line up of unspoiled Ginkgo tree-which almost no one walk in there instead of you and your gang.

Sowol-ro with Namsan view

So that's my chronicle of autumn in South Korea.

Need more inspiration? Please read the Must Visit Place to Enjoy Autumn in South Korea Part I

North Kyushu 3 Days Itinerary

2019-12-08T00:32:00.001-08:00

View from Yufuin No Mori

Kyushu Island is one of the less explored islands in Japan, especially for tourists. In fact, like any other island in Japan, Kyushu has a lot of potentials especially the natural beauties.

The good thing for tourists, Japan Rail Corporation provides JR Kyushu Pass which much cheaper than JR Pass Japan Wide Area. There are several JR Kyushu Pass such as All Kyushu area Pass, Northern Kyushu Area Pass, Southern Area Pass which available for 3 days and 5 days Pass.

Since I only have 3 days on a long weekend and want to explore the northern Kyushu area, I booked 3 Days Northen Kyushu Area Pass which covering major stations: Hakata (Fukuoka), Kumamoto, Oita (including Yufuin) and Nagasaki. Even during 3 Days, I don't have time left to visit the famous Nagasaki.

However, JR Pass coverage in Kyushu Island is a bit different from JR at Honshu Island. Most of the city networks in Kyushu are using subway, tram or buses that did not cover by JR. That's why, even if we buy JR Pass, we will need to buy a city pass such Fukuoka City Pass to cover major subway and bus system.

Day 1 Fukuoka City Tour

I flew from Seoul to Fukuoka and arrived at FUK Airport in the morning. The first thing I bought is Fukuoka Tourist City Pass that sold by JTB Travel at the Airport. The City Pass is a one-day unlimited transportation pass covering bus, subway, trains, and ferries. To ride the bus or subway, it is worked just like JR Pass, we need to show at the Officer at the gate for the subway or to the bus driver when we get off.

I ride the bus from FUK Airport to the Hakata Station using the Pass. Once I arrived at Hakata Station, I need to activate my JR voucher and booked trains for the next day. I booked the famous Yufuin No Mori train to Yufuin and on the same day, I will be back from Yufuin to Kumamoto. On the third day, I will depart from Kumamoto to Hakata.

As I said, I really love to go to Nagasaki, if only I have another day because the distance from Yufuin to Nagasaki is quite far away.

Fukuoka itself very famous among South Korean and Chinese Tourists due to the close proximity of its cities. It is only 200 km away from Busan and there are direct ferries between two cities. In Addition, Fukuoka is also close to Shanghai. That's why, even Fukuoka is not a very big city, there are a lot of International branded stores and huge department stores with tax-free outlet. So, If you love shopping, you don't need to be scared of being unable to shop, there are many shopping malls. Even Hakata Station is huge and full of stores.

The must-visit destination in Fukuoka during Autumn is Maizuru Park and Ohori Park. These Parks lie side by side near to the ruins of Fukuoka Castle.

Huge Ginkgo Tree near to Ruins of Fukuoka Castle

The complex of Maizuru and Ohori Park is so huge with a big lake in the center. During the autumn day, everything is so calm and relaxing by only sit on the bench looking for eagle hunting for fishes.


Maizuru Lake with overlooking the mountains

Observation Area from the Ruins

Walking from the lake to the Castle ruins area, we can see a lot of huge Ginkgo trees and its yellow fallen leaves. The Fukuoka Castle Ruins is literally just ruins, only gates, and foundation that lefts. But it still worth to enjoy, we can climb to the foundation and overlook the Fukuoka City from the bird-eye view.

Autumn Flowers at Maizuru Park

Since this year's autumn season is confusing, I can see a lot of Sakura Trees has shed their leaves in the park, meanwhile some of Ginkgo Trees at their peaks.

How to get there from Hakata Station: Take the subway Kuko Line and get off at Ohorikoen Station.

After visiting both Parks, our next destination is little Park that famous for its Japanese pond, Yusentei Park. Yusentei established in the middle of the 17th century, and it became public at the end of the 19th century. There are two main ways to enjoy Koyo in Yusentei. First, you can just walk around the garden and see the reflection of graceful autumn leaves on the lake. Second, you can go to Ohirome Hall, where you will see a traditional Japanese garden from inside.

Reflection on the lake of Yusentei Park

If you really love Japan-style Park, I think Yusentei is one of the most beautiful Park even it is not too big like any other park in Japan. Look how calm the water and the weather in the Park, I think you will understand why Japanese Garden rewarded as one of the best in the World.

How to Get there: From Ohori Park, take bus no. 94. It is also covered by City Pass.

My Next Destination is looking for several Japan-goods at BIC Camera Tenjin. So I went to the Tenjin Shopping center area in which huge shopping centers both underground and on the ground. Many international brands have a flagship stores here, and the most interesting is underground area where you may find local goods that not to be sold at any other area.

Chrismast Market at Tenjin

Since most shops close at 8 p.m, from Tenjin, I still have time left to go to Fukuoka Tower. Fukuoka Tower is also TV Tower, the sister of Tokyo Tower, Sapporo Tower and etc. Fukuoka Tower is a 234-meter (768 ft) tall tower located in the Momochihama area. It is the tallest seaside tower in Japan. The highest observation deck at 123m has a 360degree view of the surrounding area, the most popular time to visit is at sunset.

View from the Tower

Fukuoka Tower

Even it is popular during sunset, the night view is also a killer. To ascend, you will need to purchase a ticket 800 Yen, and when you show your Pass, they will provide a discount. The Tower will be closed at 10.00 p.m.
How to go there from Tenjin: Take bus no. W1/ 302/303 for Fukuoka Tower.

Day 2 Yufuin

Like I told you million times before, I am avid fans of the train ride, that's why when I read about Yufuin No Mori, I am getting excited. Yufuin No Mori is a limited Express train that runs from Hakata Station to Oita via Yufuin.

Yufuin itself is a small beautiful city in the valley of Mount Yufu which popular for Onsen Bath among the locals. For the avid fans of Ghibli, you will be ecstatic to visit Yufuin Floral Village.

Yufuin No Mori Train

The reason why Yufuin no Mori is so popular during Autumn (that I can't get the morning ticket due to fully booked), is the spectacular view of Mountains, valley, waterfalls, and rows of pines trees. The 2.5 hours journey will feel so short due to the scenery.

View Like This in Your Train Window

Or this

Since my camera is not in good condition, it is cannot justify the beauty of my train window at that time. I arrived at Yufuin almost dark and rush to go to Kinrin Lake, one of the most beautiful lake views I ever saw.

Kinrin Lake

Autumn from Kinrin Lake

Afterward, I walked to Yufuin Floral Village. Even the size is very small, still, this village is very beautiful, especially for Ghibli Lovers.

Kiki's Bakery

Since most of the shops and restaurants closed at 17.30, I wandered around in the dark city until I found Michellin Starred restaurant, Yufuin Wasaku served black local wagyu called Bungo Beef. Maybe if I have time, I will explain later at the separated post about the deliciousness of Japan Wagyu Beef that insanely delicious, not only Kobe Beef.

Even it is Michellin Starred, but the price is considerably based on the taste and location. This restaurant is a total lifesaver since no other restaurant opened that night.

I took the last train to Kurume and changed to Shinkansen depart for Kumamoto. Almost midnight, I arrived at Kumamoto in the middle of the rain :D

So Photogenic (the Lake)

Day 3 Kumamoto

One of Gate Keep at Kumamoto Castle

What is in your mind when you hear about Kumamoto? Yes, the Kumamoto Castle. Kumamoto Castle is one of the largest castle complexes in Japan. Kumamoto Castle is also regarded as one of Japan's Top Castle.

For those who read Musashi by Eiji Yoshikawa will closely familiar to Kumamoto Castle that during the last years before Musashi's death, he lived at Kumamoto Castle and involved a duel when he finally defeated.

Well, yes, that simple my love for literature that I feel so attached to the history and setting.

Unfortunately, the castle sustained damage in a magnitude 6.2 earthquake that struck on 14 April 2016, in Mashiki town in Kumamoto prefecture. A stone wall at the foot of the keep partially collapsed, and several of the castle's shachihoko ornaments fell from the roof of the keep and broke apart. It sustained further extensive damage the next day on 15 April following a 7.3 magnitude earthquake where some portions were completely destroyed.

Started from June 2016, the restoration work has begun that made the opening days for the castle is limited and most of the area is closed for public.

Restoration on going

Autumn at the PArk in Kumamoto Castle

Well, I am a sucker for history that's why I really love to visit Kumamoto Castle and saw with my own eyes the effect of the earthquake.

The castle debris

How to go there: Most area in the Kumamoto is covered by Trem ways. You can buy Kumamoto one day Pass to save. From Kumamoto Station take A line Trem and get off at Kumamoto Castle.

My next destination is one of the famous Japanese Park, Suizenji Jouen Park. This park is also famous for the Japanese garden style with ponds, neat cut, and bonsai of pines trees.

Autumn at Suizenji Jouen Park

Torii Gate at the Park

Koi Pond

The 'clean' cut of Japanese Garden

How to Go there: From Kumamoto Castle take Tram Line A and get off at Shiritsutaiikukan Mae station and then walk for 300 meters.

From the Park, I went to the shopping area at Shimotori Shotengai to have a lunch and walk around before departing to Hakata Station via shinkansen.

At Hakata Station, since it is very famous for Hakata-style Ramen but surely contain porks, don't be sad for Muslim travelers like me, you can try no pork-ramen Toriden at Hakata station. The taste is not as good as Ichiran but at least in Fukuoka, you should try the ramen, right?

Well, I wish I have more time to explore any other cities or even Fukuoka itself. And if you love train ride like me, you will be amazed that there are lot of special train at Kyushu area including the seven stars train that as expensive as the famous Orient Express!!!

See you at another journey!

Secret Places untuk Spring Hunting di South Korea

2019-12-07T04:39:00.001-08:00

Cherry Blossoms at Seokchon Lake

Spring di Korea Selatan biasanya dimulai di bagian paling selatan (Jeju Island) dan perlahan bergeser ke utara sampai dengan terakhir di kawasan Pyeongchang. Spring dimulai di pertangahan maret dan berakhir di pertengahan Mei.

Setiap tahunnya di musim semi, Korea Selatan berubah menjadi tanah warni-warni dengan berbagai macam bunga mekar bergantian, dari Plum Blossoms, Cherry Blossoms a.k.a sakura, canola si kuning cantik, azalea, tulip dan masih banyak lagi.

Tergantung kapan kamu datangnya selama bulan maret sampai tengah mei, kamu akan bisa menikmati salah satu festival bunga di salah satu kota di Korea Selatan!

Selain itu, suhu udara yang relatif nyaman sekitar 9 - 27 derajat celcius, membuat spring merupakan salah satu musim paling padat turis di Korea. But don't underestimate weather in Korea! karena di malam hari kadang suhu bisa sangat drop mencapai 0 derajat celcius.

Saya memulai hunting spring di pertengahan maret yaitu di daerang Gwangyang dan berakhir di pertengahan Mei di Hangang Guri Park, Seoul. Setelah itu, cuaca sudah mulai panas dan tidak terlalu nyaman untuk jalan-jalan ke taman.

1. Plum Blossoms festival di Gwangyang (Pertengahan Maret 2019)

Gwangyang Plum Blossom Festival

Musim semi di bagian selatan Korea dimulai dengan full bloomnya bunga plum. Bunga plum terlihat sangat mirip dengan bunga sakura atau cherry blossom terutama dari warna, tipikal pohon maupun tangkai bunganya.

Pohon plum biasanya gundul selama musim dingin, kemudian ketika suhu mulai menghangat, kuncup-kuncup bunga bermunculan di tangkai dan batang pohon yang berwarna gelap tersebut. Sekilas struktur batang kedua pohon itupun terlihat mirip sehingga banyak orang yang tidak tahu bahwa keduanya bunga yang berbeda namun masih dalam 1 famili.

Salah satu festival bunga plum yang terkenal di Korea akhir-akhir ini adalah Plum Festival at Gwangyang. Meskipun demikian, festival Plum Blossom di Gwangyang ini sangat jauh dari popularitas terutama bagi turis. Mungkin karena letaknya yang cukup jauh dengan kota Seoul maupun Busan, yaitu sekitar 300km atau 3,5 jam perjalanan bus sehingga cukup melelahkan bagi Turis yang singgah di Korea hanya beberapa hari.

Justru karena area yang hanya diketahui oleh orang lokal, membuat festival ini sangat istimewa dinikmati terutama bagi penggemar fotografi.

Gwangyang sendiri adalah sebuah kota kecil berada di lembah pegunungan-pegunungan. Untuk kesana, terdapat bus antar kota namun dangan frekuensi terbatas. Saya pergi bersama rombongan lain melalui tour Trazy dan seluruh transportasi terjamin sampai kembali ke Seoul.

Sama halnya seperti Cherry Blossom, peak dari Plum Blossom biasanya hanya berlangsung seminggu untuk kemudian rontok dan berganti daun.

Plum Blossom festival ini pun sangat recommended dan cantik karena kita bisa melihat berbukit-bukit pohon plum blossoms yang berbunga dengan cantik.

2. Gyeongju Cherry Blossom Festivals (Akhir Maret -Awal April 2019)

Tiba di Seoul namun bunga Sakura belum menunjukkan tanda-tanda full bloom? Pergi ke arah selatan adalah solusinya. Gyeongju Cherry Blossom Festivals biasanya dimulai 1 minggu sebelum Seoul Cherry Blossom Festivals dan tidak kalah cantik jika dibandingkan kota-kota lainnya di Seoul.

Sekitar 276 kilometer ke arah timur laut, Gyeongju adalah salah satu kota tercantik di Korea Selatan.
Gyeongju sempat menjadi ibu kota salah satu dinasti terkuat dalam sejarah Korea, yaitu Silla dinasti. Karena sejarah yang sangat kental, banyak tempat-tempat bersejarah yang dilestarikan bahkan terdaftar dalam UNESCO World Cultural Heritage.

Kebetulan, lokasi-lokasi taman bunga Cherry Blossom banyak terletak di area bersejarah seperti Bulguksa Temple, Cheomseongdae Observatory, Royal Tombs hingga salah satu danau tercantik, Bomun Lake. Jadi perjalanan menuju Gyeongju sangat menarik karena sambil menikmati cantiknya kota dengan warna-warni spring, kita sedikit belajar sejarah.

Cherry Blossom di Bolguksa Temple

Park Area Bolguksa Temple

Tulip di Cheomseongdae Observatory

Canola di Bulguksa Temple

Gyoengju adalah salah satu kota favorit saya di Korea Selatan. Berada di sana, seolah berada dalam time capsule, kita dibawa ke beberapa abad sebelumnya dan merasakan the authencity dari budaya Korea Selatan.

Dari Canola, Cherry Blossom hingga Tulip, kita bisa melihat 3 bunga paling terkenal di musim semi dalam satu waktu dan satu tempat, di Gyeongju.

Bomun Lake

Salah satu tempat favorit adalah Bomun Lake yang juga tempat favorit para penduduk lokal. Danau indah yang dikelilingi bunga cherry blossoms, dengan beberapa hotel berada di pinggirannya. I think, this city worth every right to be visited more than 1 night.

3. Guil Station

It's first week of April, biasanya beberapa tempat di Seoul sudah mulai warna-warni oleh bunga Sakura. Hal tersebut juga berarti bahwa Seoul akan penuh dengan manusia baik turis maupun penduduk lokal yang datang ingin merasakan Hanami, piknik di bawah pohon bunga Sakura.

Dari Pinggiran Sungai dekat Guil Station

Karena 2019 adalah tahun kedua saya merasakan Cherry Blossom Festivals di Korea, saya ingin pergi ke suatu tempat yang jauh lebih sepi dari Yeouido Park atau Namsan Park yang pastinya penuh dengan lautan manusia. Setelah melakukan research, saya menemukan taman cantik yang tidak banyak dijamah turis di dekat Guil Station.

Cherry Blossom Canopy di Guil Station

Almost Empty!

Taman ini merupakan jalanan panjang dengan cherry blossom canopy, membentang di pinggiran sungai. Rute yang saya ambil adalah dari Gasan Digital Complex stasiun (line 1) saya turun kemudian berjalan-jalan di sepanjang jalan bbeottkott-ro (jalan cherry blossom) kemudian saya naik bus no.5012 atau 653 menuju ke arah Guil Stasiun dan turun di Cheolsan Riverville Apartment. Kemudian saya berjalan menikmati indahnya Cherry Blossom tunnel sambil berjalan ke arah utara menuju stasiun.

Jika ingin mendapatkan foto nyaris 'bersih' tanpa bantuan photoshop, maka Guil Station ini adalah salah satu destinasi wajib untuk terlena dengan cantiknya Cherry Blossom di Korea!

4. Seokchon Lake, Seoul

Well, it is not exactly secluded area, tapi Seokchon Lake juga merupakan destinasi cantik yang bisa kita kunjungi selama musim semi.

Kunci untuk menuju Seokchon Lake adalah menghindari saat weekend dimana ribuan penduduk lokal akan mengunjungi danau buatan ini untuk menikmati peak season cherry Blossom.

Tempat ini juga salah satu tujuan turis dan terdaftar dalam rangkaian Cherry Blossom Festival di Seoul sehingga banyak hiburan dan stall makanan yang tersedia.

Weekend at Seokchon Lake

Meskipun cantik, namun terlalu banyak manusia di Seokchon Lake membuat destinasi ini tidak lagi nyaman untuk dikunjungi berlama-lama.

Seokchon Lake

5. Jeonju Hanok Village (mid April)

Pencarian bunga King Cherry Blossom adalah salah satu alasan saya mengunjungi Jeonju saat spring. Namun sayangnya, saya datang terlalu awal sehingga belum ada tanda-tanda King Cherry muncul

Mawar di Wansan Park

Salah satu tempat yang dipenuhi King Cherry Blossom adalah Wansan Park. Pada saat peak, taman ini dipenuhi dengan King Cherry Blossom, Azelea dan banyak bunga lainnya.

Namun saya tidak kecewa datang ke Jeonju karena Jeonju merupakan my second favorit city di Korea Selatan. Sama seperti Gyeongju, di Jeonju kita akan memasuki time capsule yang membawa kita ke Hanok Village, desa dengan rumah-rumah tradisional khas Korea.


Jeonju Hanok Village

King Cherry Blossom

Mural Village Jeonju

6. Seoul Grand Park (mid April)

Seoul Grand Park terletak di bagian utara Kota Seoul sehingga peak Cherry Blossom biasanya 1 minggu di belakang peak di Kota Seoul.

Seoul Grand Park merupakan kompleks kebun binatang, danau, amusement park yang super luas dan salah satu tempat favorit saya di Seoul. Any season, spring, autumn maupun summer, Seoul Grand Park merupakan closest city gateaway for soul refreshment.

Jalanan di Sepanjang Seoul Grand Park

Seoul Grand Park

Danau di Seoul Grand Park

Crowded but still fun!

Jadi, jika kamu berada di Kota Seoul pada minggu ketiga April dan ketinggalan peak Cherry Blossom di downtown kota Seoul, mengunjungi Seoul Grand Park adalah salah satu best bet untuk menikmati indahnya Cherry Blossom Canopy.

6. Hangang Guri Park (early May)

It's almost Summer! Suhu di Kota Seoul sudah mencapai 28 derajat dan humidity semakin meningkat. Memasuki bulan Mei 2019, saya harus berpuasa Ramadlan jadi berjalan-jalan menikmati sisa-sisa musim semi cukup menantang.

Rangkaian akhir spring hunting adalah Hangang Guri Park. Salah satu taman di pinggiran sungai Hangang yang terletak di kota Guri, tepat di sebelah kota Seoul.

Taman ini saat bulan Mei akan berubah menjadi lautan warna kuning cantik karena bunga Canola.

Menuju ke sini cukup mudah yaitu dari line no. 5 turun di Gwangnaru Station kemudian naik bus no.1-1 dan berjalan sekitar 1km untuk mencapai taman.

Taman ini sangat cantik bahkan tidak diperlukan photoshop atau snapseed untuk mempertajam warnanya.

Yellow!

So Pretty

May be this is heaven

Yup, that's all!
Mencari destinasi yang lebih 'mudah' dan ramai untuk spring hunting di Seoul? Maka link ini mungkin akan membantu : link

Ever heard about Jinhae? The most beautiful city in South Korea during spring? Maka Link ini akan membantu : Jinhae or this

How About Busan? this is Busan during Spring

Well, recently during the Spring is the worst air quility in Seoul due to the fine dust. That's would also effecting your photo quality. Better to prepare the mask and hopefully spring 2020 would be better!

Have a question? Shoot me in the comments!

Japan in 14 Days, the Unpopular Itinerary

2019-11-20T04:49:00.002-08:00

I have this long love for Japan due to many things. Its natural beauty, the food, the courtesy, and the uniqueness. It may be because I grew up closely with Japan manga, anime and dorama. Therefore, Japan is like the second country home- in terms of knowing their customs and habit (even festivals).

When there is a tension between South Korea and Japan recently that made flight fare between two countries drops significantly, I have become an opportunist :)

During the last couple of months, I've been to Japan 3 times, two short visits (during the weekend) and one full week. Flight fare from Seoul to any big cities in Japan is very competitive, started from USD 100- USD300 depend on the schedule and airlines.

Since my visit is quite scattered, I will compact it and write the itinerary here based on easier access and time considerations. I went to 'classic itinerary' since it is a big family trip, also unpopular places like Nagoya and Kobe.

This is the full list of the itinerary
Day 1 : Arrive at Tokyo, settle into the hotel
Day 2: Disney land or Disney Sea
Day 3: Tokyo Shopping Paradise: Nakano Broadway, Harajuku, Shinjuku
Day 4 : Ibaraki, Hitachi Seaside Park
Day 5 : Gotenba Premium Outlet
+ options: If you are at Japan at the season of MotoGp, dan you can visit Motegi
Day 6 : Arrive at Nagoya, settle in
Day 7 : Museum Day at Nagoya
Day 8 : Castle and Shopping day at Nagoya
Day 9 : Arrive at Osaka, settle in
Day 10 : Day trip to Kyoto
Day 11 : Universal Studio Osaka
Day 12 : Explore Osaka, shopping again
Day 13 : Tongue Trip to Kobe
Day 14 : Depart from Osaka-(either back to Tokyo or directly go to your Country

1. Day 2-3 Tokyo Central Area

Tokyo is giga-city, what I mean, whenever I came there, I always find new amusing spots to visit. I checked all the mandatory list to visit for Tokyo previously (you can see here and here also here), for example, Hachiko statue at Shinjuku, Rainbow bridge at Odaiba, or just get lost at Akihabara.

Day 2, Arrived previous day, and after settling in at the Hotel and explore the neighbourhood, I spent the next day to visiting theme park.

If you into a theme park, then please visit Disney Sea or Disney Land. It will take the whole day to explore the area.

The main reason I visited Tokyo this time is to visit Disneyland. After visited Disneysea early this year, I went to Disneyland because of my niece's request.

At Disneysea, what I remember the most is how difficult to find non-pork food, but at Disneyland, there is a lot of beef or chicken meal, but I haven't spotted any halal food yet.

In terms of the attractions, I felt that Disney sea built for teenagers or older rather than Disneyland that child-friendly. And Disney land Tokyo more similar to Disneyland Hong Kong, but more crowded.

Disneyland is older than Disneysea, that's why a lot of building attraction looks just old...not sophisticated and beautiful compare to Disneysea.

The Girl adore the castle in front of Her

Strangely my favorite attraction is Star Tours: The Adventures Continue. It is a 4dx ride that feels quite real, even I am not the die-hard-fans of Star Wars. But My relatives said otherwise, it made them dizzy.

My visit to Disneyland takes up almost a whole day to finish (not exactly finish but until I was unable to walk because so tired due to the queue). I managed to ride Space Mountains (high-speed ride into the darkness and starry lighting), Haunted Mansion (loved the shadow animation!), Monster. Inc Ride & Go Seek (shooting a laser to Monster Inc. creature). Well, I just realized, I didn't ride many even I spent 8 hours in there but wasted at queue time T_T.

In my honest opinion, if you are quite ambitious trying the rides, please buy the Fast Pass. The Queue is crazy since Disney Land Tokyo is one of the most popular theme parks in the world. Rather than finish it in 2 days, it will be better to get the Fast Pass. During my queue before Monster Inc, I quite pissed off with the officer because he only allows 5 persons from the regular pass to enter after he finish the Fast pass queue-that it is not short.

How to get Disney Sea & Disney Land: Take the JR Train for Keiyo Line or Musashino Line, and get off at Miahama Station. Disney land is on the right side meanwhile Disney Sea is left side. Bringing baggage to Disneyland? Don't Worry! there are a lot of coin lockers at the Miahama Station Basement area or the sidewalk from Station to Disneyland!

Day 3, If you are into shopping, then welcome to paradise.

Why paradise? Because you can get anything in Tokyo. From second-hand electronics, comic book, kawaii accessories to Patek Phillipe.

The must-visit shopping area is Shinjuku. Start from Shinjuku station, you can walk in the underground area and find a lot of malls at each exit. From Kinokuniya, BIC Camera, Yodobashi, Uniqlo, and if you look for No Pork-Ramen, the famous Ichiran -you can exit at D4 or D5, the Ichiran is just across the street.

Ichiran Ramen No-Pork

Halal Yakiniku Panga

The next stop is Ginza Street (simply because of my hotel near to the area). Because I wear hijab recently, I shop a lot for new clothes and skirts, that's why I need to go to Uniqlo (because it's cheaper there with tax-free). Uniqlo Ginza is the biggest in Tokyo and should be the most complete. Beside Uniqlo, there is Gu, a competitor of Uniqlo with lower prices (even not that much). Uniqlo or Gu can be categorized as high-street fashion. Gu is my new favorite, the style is almost the same as Uniqlo!

And my next shopping destination Harajuku Area. Frankly, this is my first time went to Harajuku!! I visited Sailor Moon store-that I'm dying to see and accidentally found PowerPuffGirls stuff. OMG! My credit card limit suddenly burn out! Bought every unnecessary thing in that shop~

At Sailormoon Store

Then for the watch lover, you can be going ecstatic when visiting Broadway Nakano. A shopping district just across JR Nakano Station, which full of used and new branded watch shops. You name it, from Patek Phillipe until Casio, its all in there. Each store has its distinguish collections and comparative pricing. You can find JPY 1,000 - JPY 5,000,000. The most famous stores are Jackroad and Betty Road because they have wide and various collections. But if you have specific models to search, it won't hurt to stop by at every store at the building just to compare which you like the most. On the plus side, if you also love kawaii things such as anime or manga, this building full of that!

One alley At Nakano

Omega

2. Day 4 Ibaraki, Hitachi Seaside Park

Crimson Red Kochia

This destination has been under my wishlist since forever. The Red sparking plant is really inviting my curiosity. Last year, I tried to find it in Korea and found it at Yangju Nari Park. I tried to visit Kochia Park at Yangju Nari Park, Korea but not as big as the one at Ibaraki. That's why I really need to visit it when it is peak time.

Have JR Pass already? Then it is time to activate it! Return way from Tokyo to Ibaraki would cost approx. JPY 5,000.

Since I didn't use JR Pass and traveling in Japan is bloody expensive, I chose the cheapest option to go there. I rode JR Joban Line from Shimbasi Station (nearest to my hotel) directions to Katsuta Stations (cost JPY 2,350). It took 2.5 hours sitting at the local rapid train (equipped with lavatory also). From Katsuta Station, I purchased a one-day bus pass and entry pass to the Park costs JPY 1,050. Then, the bus took 15 minutes to arrive at Hitachi Seaside Park.

There is an option to go there, either by Bus but it departs quite late from Tokyo Station or Ltd Express but more expensive.

Hitachi Seaside Park is a vast park with classical Japanese Park which becomes very famous during late spring or early autumn. I specifically visit the Park on October18,2019, Day One of the famous Kochia at peak red.

Usually Kochia 'burning' in the second week of October, but this time it is a bit late. When I visited on Oct 18,2019, some areas were still orange and green.

Kochia is a bush that 'burned' when the temperature cools down. What makes Hitachi Seaside Park very beautiful when the hill is fully colored with red glowing.

But Hitachi Seaside Park is not only featuring Kochia. There are lots of other flowers, forests, and other beautiful park sides.

Autumn Flowers at Hitachi Seaside Park

The vast areas of Hitachi Seaside Park

Finishing strolling along Mirashi Hills, you can enjoy the food trucks that line up along the welcome/exit area. Don't forget to bring your cash because I cannot find any ATM in the Park.

Exiting, you can just walk to the huge Factory Outlet areas. It is maybe just 300 meters from the Park.

3. Day 5: Shopping at Gotenba Premium Outlet

Still about Shopping, Gotenba Premium Outlet is a vast shopping mall located in the area of Hakone. Just two hours away from Tokyo, we can go there either by Shinkansen or Rapid Train, also Bus from Tokyo Station.

This Premium Outlet has been a very popular destination among shopping lovers due to the variety of brands, says: Prada, Balenciaga, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent that rarely available in any ordinary premium outlets.

Didn't look for those brands? Visiting Nike or Adidas Store also won't hurt. Have I told you that shoes are very cheap in Korea, especially sneakers? At Gotenba, the price is slightly a bit expensive but the variety of models is almost complete. For Ultraboost (one of Adidas shoe line) lovers like me, Japan is like heaven because there are a lot of special editions that didn't sell at other countries. But in Gotenba, if you are lucky you might find it. This also applies to Nike React lovers!

How to go there :
If you have a plan to stay Hakone, then visiting Gotenba is a big bonus because it is in the area. But if you come from Tokyo, it is not difficult also.

The expensive choice is to take Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Odawara Station and then change to Tokaido Line for Takasaki, get off at Kozu and take JR Gotemba Line for Numazu and get off at Gotemba Station. From Gotemba Station, take the bus to the Premium Outlet. It will cost 4600 Yen

The cheaper choice is to take JR Tokaido Line for Odawara, transit at Kozu (Kanagawa) and take the JR Gotemba Line and then get off at Gotemba Station. This will only cost 1980 Yen.

+++ additional Itinerary:

I spent one additional day to watch MotoGp Race at Mottegi. The twin ring is located about 2 hours from Japan and a secluded area. I went there by rent car and arrive at 2 o'clock and the race starts at 3 o'clock. It is super fun activities, even I watched Rossi fall from his motorbike.

Podium, Marquez on the top

Walking down to the street at Podium Stand

4. Day 6-8 Nagoya

To reach Nagoya from Tokyo, you will need to take Shinkansen. But if you don't have JR Pass, you can buy Nagoya Pass only for JPY 500, only for trips at the city either bus or train that owned by JR.

Have you heard about Nagoya? The 4th biggest city in Japan is the home of the Toyota factory. Didn't interested enough? How if I told you that Nagoya has a lot to offers, from Museum, Legoland, delicious and authentic Kishimen Noodles, the famous Nagoya castle, and if you don't want to go farther to try Hida Beef at Takayama, then Nagoya is yours to choose.

SCAMAGLEV museum

Did Museum bored you? But I swear Museums in Nagoya is different like no other city.

I started the day by visiting the SCAMAGLEV museum. MAGLEV is an abbreviation of Magnetic Levitation Train or the one of technology used by JR to develop fast-track train like shinkansen. The museum built by Japan Railways (JR) to showcase Japan’s plans for a magnetic levitation (maglev) train line. The main story to tell in this museum is Japan’s trains through the years, starting with steam locomotives and going through to the most modern shinkansen (bullet trains).

Early Shinkansen

Inside, you can try to enter the train, check out the compartment train and try the 4D of Nozomi Train (latest technology of MAGLEV). As a train addict like me, this museum is like a vast playground that pumps up my endorphin to the optimum level.

Inside the train

How to go there :
Take Aonami Line from Nagoya Station to the last stop: Kinjo Futo, get off and take the right turn. The left turn is Legoland!

Not enough, my next visit is the Toyota Museum. It is like a sin visiting Nagoya without knocking the 'home industry'. There are several museums owned by Toyota, for example, Toyota Kaitan Museum- it is a plant tour that a little bit far from Nagoya central city, then Toyota Techno Museum or know as Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology. I visited the Toyota Techno Museum based on the recommendations of many online users.

Toyota Techno Museum is narrating about the history of Toyota corporation. Did you know that Toyota used to be a sewing machine factory? Then the son of the owner is mesmerized by the automobile industry in Europe and really wants to make the automobile industry in Japan?

The latest technology used, robots

The museum told me about how they built Toyota from scratch. There is also the prototype of the first car built by Toyota- a wooden truck, and the technology they developed until now. You can register for the English tour that will take up almost 50 minutes to really understand the history of Toyota.

Our English Tour Leader

How to go there: The museum is a short walk from Sako Station which is one station away from Nagoya Station along the Meitensu Railway. It is also the first stop after Nagoya Station along the Meguru Loop bus line (including in Nagoya Pass)

Later, I went to Nagoya Tower and Sakae 21, a popular place among youngsters in Nagoya to spend the night while chilling or just having dinner.

Sakae 21

Sakae 21 is so lit at night and photogenic. On the ground floor, there are a lot of restaurants to enjoy. Additionally, just across the Sakae 21, there is Nagoya TV Tower. Unfortunately, when I was there, it is not opened.

Sakae 21

The Next day, I spent the day visiting Nagoya Castle. The Castle itself is under construction so I don't have a chance to peek inside. The Castle is not as big as Osaka Castle, but still beautiful.

Nagoya Castle

What you cannot miss from Nagoya is Kishimen- the hybrid of pasta and udon noodles that origins from Nagoya. There are a lot of Kishimen restaurants, and I chose a random restaurant near to the Nagoya station, and it was bloody delicious. My next favorite type of Noodle!

Aside from those destinations, I visited a lot of shopping districts like the Osu Shopping District or just get lost in massive shopping areas at Nagoya station. The reason why I keep visiting the same stores at different locations is that I am a collector of Manga stuff, so I need to check every store in every city I visited whether I will find any unique collections.

Day 9-13 Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe

Okay, Osaka and Kyoto might be the popular routes, but the reason why I chose Kyoto is because we cannot simply ignore this view :

Kinkakuji

or this

Arashiyama Area

Crowned as most beautiful old city in Japan, Kyoto transform into very beautiful city especially in Autumn. The Arashiyama area, a mountain with a lake and famous bamboo forest, i think the most melancholic city I ever experienced in Japan.

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Don't miss to visit Kinkakuji the golden pavilion, Gion area, Fushimi Inari Taisha and of course the famous bamboo forest. For this trip, I'd prefer to stay at Osaka and doing a day trip to Kyoto. Kyoto can be accessed a half-hour from Osaka by train or car.

Since Kyoto is the most destination in Japan aside from Tokyo, be prepared to meet a good amount of tourists and it reflected your photoshoots. It is hard to find any decent photo without strangers inside our frame. The choice is you go during an unpopular time like the end of Aug ( mostly rainy) or early morning or almost sunset.

Bamboo Forest Arashiyama, so Crowded!

The Next day, I spent my day at Osaka. I revisit Universal Studio of Osaka and really-really hooked by the Amazing Spider-man attractions. I skipped the Harry Potter ride because I only have one day and I ever experienced it. If this is your first-time visit USO, then it is mandatory to ride Harry Potter. I spent all day at Universal Studio and going back to the hotel, beat up.

Hogwarts at USO

Famous Pancake at Shinhsaibashi

The day after, I am doing some shopping at the Shinsaibashi Area with also adjacent to Ebisubashi, that also famous for Glico Man Billboard. This shopping area spans almost 2 kilometers long and several blocks, that we can found the famous japan brands, many sushi restaurants, desserts and of course the original of Osaka Takoyaki.

Ebisubashi

Since my JR Pass is expired the next day, we feel obliged to visit one more city before coming back to Tokyo and back to Seoul. Therefore, we decided to visit Kobe that famous with Kobe Beef. I've been tried Hida Beef and got blown away with the delicacy, that's why we are so curious about Kobe Beef which slightly more expensive than Hida Beef.

Kobe Harbor

Arrive at Kobe, this city reminds me of the layback feeling of Hiroshima. And the first thing I do is having lunch at Steak & Grill Kobe Meriken Hatoba, which one of the famous restaurant at Kobe.
It is important to book the restaurant prior to your departure since the restaurant is sizeable and mostly fully booked during lunch or dinner time. Initially, I tried to book the most famous one : Steak Aoyama, but it is fully booked for whole month and I managed to book the second famous one : La Shomon, but it is quite far from the central area.

Kobe Beef

So how is it Kobe Beef? It is very tasty, moist-like you don't need an effort to chew it and mind blowing, only if you never taste Hida Beef. Personally, I'd prefer Hida Beef that insanely delicious, I don't know may be the chef at the Hidayama Kyoya is genius to cook the Hida Beef.

Belly fulled, I continue my exploration of Kobe Harbour. The Harbour area is quite nice with shopping complex, sea and seaside area with full of entertainment. There are ferris wheel, dance performance, food stalls or just seats to chilling.

FInished, I continue my journey to the near of Kobe Station, to go to Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens. The Garden is located to the Mount Rokko. To garden is 5 minutes walking from Jr Shin Kobe and to reach the welcome plaza, we need to ride the cable car.

The view from cable car is stunning. At the front, we can see Kobe's skyscraper facing the beach and at the back side, the gardens lining up at Mount Rokko, also the waterfall. If you have enough time, do take the cable car to ascend and then walking following the path when descending.

We arrive there almost before closing time of the garden, that's why we prefer to ride a return cable car.

The Welcome Plaza

View of Kobe

So, that's basically 14 days itinerary in Japan that maybe you can consider!

Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part III : Do's and Don'ts

2019-10-21T02:14:00.001-07:00

Jeddah Old Town

Setelah haji, saya masih punya waktu beberapa hari lagi di Mekkah untuk beribadah di masjid dengan pahala paling besar (100.000 kali) yaitu di Masjidil Haram. Berangsur-angsur, para tamu Allah mulai kembali ke negara masing-masing dan giliran kloter kami (akhirnya) mendapatkan giliran pindah ke hotel bintang 5.

Hotel di Saudi Arabia, bisa dibilang cukup unik jika dibandingkan di negara-negara lain. Hotel bintang 5 biasanya adalah hotel yang berada di radius terdekat di area Masjidil Haram atau Masjid Nabawi. Fasilitas hotel bintang 5 di sini pun tidak selengkap di negera-negara lain seperti tidak ada kolam renang, gym center, coffee shop dan lain-lain. Bahkan meskipun di hotel bintang 5 kelas suite, kita bisa jumpai 4 bed single tersedia di dalam kamar, padahal kamar ditempati hanya 2 orang.

Kami pindah di hotel Makarem Al-Qur'a. Plakat di depan hotel memberitahukan bahwa hotel tersebut memiliki 5 bintang, meskipun lokasinya sekitar 1.7 km dari Masjidil Haram. Jika di negara lain, mungkin kita bisa menilai hotel tersebut standar bintang 3 karena kelengkapan fasilitas yang masih kurang. Beruntungnya, di kanan-kiri kami, banyak apartemen dan hotel yang ditempati oleh jamaah haji reguler dari Indonesia yang ekuivalen dengan banyak dijual makanan-makanan indonesia seperti nasi kuning di pagi hari.

Jarak 1.7 km di Seoul atau negara-negara lain dengan iklim subtropikal adalah hal yang cincai untuk ditempuh jalan kaki. Namun di Negara iklim gurun, 1.7 KM akan terasa seperti 10 KM mempertimbangkan terik matahari dan debu. Karena itu hampir tidak mungkin bagi saya untuk jalan kaki ke Masjidil Haram setiap sebelum sholat 5 waktu...karena ya PANAS BANGET!!!!!!!! Panas yang tidak bisa saya ceritakan dalam kata-kata namun bisa dijelaskan oleh kondisi tubuh saya saat itu yang mimisan terus.

Untungnya, Pemerintah Arab Saudi bekerja sama dengan Pemerintah Indonesia menyiapkan bus-bus yang akan berhenti di tiap pondokan jamaah haji dengan tujuan ke/dari Masjidil Haram. Bus-bus ini tersedia selama 24 jam dan gratis, dengan pool area berada di terminal di sebelah Clock Tower. Kita bisa naik dari pool atau di setiap pondokan jamaah haji Indonesia yang biasanya diberi baliho besar penanda nomor pondokan.

Bus gratis itu rupanya disediakan untuk negara-negara dengan penduduk muslim yang besar seperti Iran dan Turki. Biasanya warna bus pun agak sama antar satu bus dan yang lain, biasanya dibedakan dengan sticker bendera yang menempel di muka bus. Atau kalau tidak, sopir bus biasanya sadar jika terdapat penumpang negara lain yang tersesat, dia biasanya memberitahu untuk naik bus khusus sesuai negaranya.

Dari hotel sayapun disediakan shuttle bus gratid, namun intensitasnya tidak sebanyak bus untuk jamaah Indonesia. Jadi, meskipun saya tidak berangkat dari Indonesia, tapi saya kan orang Indonesia maka saya boleh nebeng bus umum ini he...he....he..

Namun ada kalanya kami ketinggalan shuttle bus padahal jadwal sholat sudah dekat. Dalam situasi begini, biasanya kami memilih naik taxi seharga 20-30 riyal atau sekitat IDR 80-120rb untuk jarak 1.7 KM. Sementara untuk pulangnya, karena biasanya membawa barang belanjaan yang berat, kami beberapa kali juga mencoba naik taxi. Pernah karena saking lelahnya, kami mencoba naik taxi namun pengemudi taxi bisa menarik tarif 50riyal..atau sekitar 200rb rupiah untuk jarak sedekat itu!!

Memberhentikan taxi ini pun agak tricky karena begitu banyak jamaah yang ingin naik taxi namun jumlah taxi yang diizinkan memasuki area Masjidil Haram juga sangat terbatas. Alhasil, sopir taxi ugal-ugalan menaikkan tarif dan merampok kelelahan para jamaah. Pada titik ini, kami memikirkan betapa beruntungnya jamaah yang bisa mendapatkan hotel di area inner circle Masjidil Haram..meskipun harga yang dibayar +++++++++++ jauhhhh lebih mahal.

Ibadah haji mungkin telah selesai, namun bukan berarti Mekkah mendadak menjadi sepi. Mekkah masih sangat ramai sehingga pergulatan mencari posisi sholat di Masjidil Haram masih tetap terjadi. Namun kompetisi untuk mendapat tempat duduk di Food court Zam-zam Tower sudah agak berkurang.

Masalahnya dan (untungnya), pembagian area sholat jamaah laki-laki dan perempuan di Masjidil Haram tidak seteratur di Masjidil Nabawi. Laki-laki dan perempuan bisa berdampingan sholat bersama jika memang tidak ada posisi lagi. Beberapa kali, saya bisa sholat berdekatan dengan Suami saya jadi jika selesai sholat kami tidak perlu cari-carian atau tunggu-tungguan.

Suasana sholat di luar Masjidil Haram ketika telat masuk ke dalam

Saya biasanya pergi ke Masjidil Haram saat sebelum sholat Dhuhur dimulai, kemudian keluar mencari makan siang di Zam-zam tower dan kembali sebelum Ashar. Selanjutnya saya Ithikaf sampai dengan sholat Maghrib, kemudian mencari makan lagi dan kembali ke masjid untuk shalat Isya kemudian pulang ke Hotel. Tidak sepenuhnya begitu tiap hari, benar-benar tergantung kondisi tubuh saya yang sedang nano-nano saat itu.

Plafon yang akan Dirindukan

Normalnya, pada masa haji, kita harus datang 1 jam sebelum adzan agar bisa mendapat posisi di dalam masjid. Posisi kesukaan saya adalah di basement, tepat lantai yang sama dengan Ka'bah, atau di lantai 3 tempat melakukan sa'i. Kedua tempat itu cenderung tidak diketahui oleh jamaah lainnya dan ACnya yang super dingin. Namun untuk memasuki area basement, kurang lebih sekitar 1.5 jam sebelum adzan untuk amannya.

Tak jarang juga karena keasyikan belanja, kami mencoba datang ke masjidil haram sekitar 15 menit sebelum Adzan sholat Ashar dan jalanan dari Zam-zam tower ke Masjid telah penuh dengan lautan manusia. Dalam kondisi begitu, kami memutuskan sholat di dalam mall. Bahkan, di dalam mall pun penuh dengan jamaah yang ingin sholat di sepanjang jalan. Askar-askar yang penuh energi pun harus mengatur shaf agar tidak berantakan.

Sholat di lantai 3 tempat Sa'i

Ketika shalat jum'at, jumlah jamaah akan lebih membludak. Saya pernah datang 1 jam sebelum sholat Jum'at dan mendapatkan posisi di seberang hotel Makarem Ayjad, sekitar 200 meter dari Masjidil Haram. Lebih lagi, panas!!!!

Tantangan berikutnya saat naik haji adalah FLU dan BATUK. Berawal dari begitu banyak manusia di Mina di tempat yang kurang hygienis, alhasil satu per satu orang tumbang terjangkit virus ini. Flu dan Batuk dari Arab pun menurut saya jauh lebih ganas daripada flu di Indonesia karena membawa demam dan ngilu, parahnya lagi batuk yang membuat kita berhari-hari ga bisa tidur.

Saya mendapat demam karena flu ketika hari terakhir di Mina, hasil dari tertular teman yang sedang flu di tenda, kondisi tidak hygienis, makan tidak teratur dan jadwal tidur yang kacau. Untungnya saya membawa obat flu yang banyaaak dari Korea jadi meskipun demam tidak terlalu mengacaukan aktivitas ibadah meskipun kalau malam saya jadi serba salah..kadang menggigil kadang kepanasan.

Di Mekkah, saya sempat pergi ke klinik tepat di Zam-zam tower. Klinik tersebut gratis disediakan untuk jamaah dari negara manapun. Cukup menunjukkan ID Haji ke petugas klinik, maka kita bertemu dokter dan mendapatkan obat gratis. Karena gratis ini pun membuat antriannya cukup panjang meskipun pelayanan cukup cepat karena dokter cuma bertanya kamu sakit apa kemudian menulis resep. Jika tidak terlalu parah, dokter bahkan tidak mengeluarkan stetoskop untuk memeriksa kondisi tubuh.

Saya dan suami pergi ke klinik karena batuk dan flu, sementara suami ada tambahan yaitu telapak kakinya kapalan (ha ha ha!). Dokter memberikan obat yang berbeda untuk kami meskipun gejalanya sama dan salep untuk kapalan suami. Jumlah obat yang diberikan pun luar biasa banyak- tanpa penjelasan obat apa untuk apa.

Obat dari klinik

Beberapa teman juga melakukan flu-shot di klinik tersebut namun sayangnya tidak gratis. Saya tahu tentang Flu-shot ini saat saya mengobrol dengan teman sepulangnya dari Haji. Saya mengeluh batuk yang tak kunjung sembuh, kemudian dia bercerita bahwa dia cuma batuk sebentar karena melakukan flu-shot ketika di Mekkah. Beberapa teman dia pun melakukan hal yang sama dan sembuh relatif cepat. Harga flu-shot di Arab sekitar 2 juta rupiah saat itu.

Bisa saya akui, ini adalah batuk terparah sepanjang masa. Beberapa kali saya muntah karena tenggorokan saya berusaha mengeluarkan dahak yang membandel. Berbagai macam obat dan pergi ke dokter di Jakarta pun tidak mengurangi batuk saya. Bahkan dokter spesialis yang sengaja saya pilih karena titel profesor doktor, tersepuh di bidangnya hanya bilang : "Oh, dari Arab, ya emang susah, dinikmati aja he..he..he.." x___x

Kebetulan batuk saya parah banget ketika dalam perjalanan Jeddah-Seoul dan sampai pulang ke Indonesia. Masalahnya, flu bisa disembuhkan dengan istirahat, namun karena batuk saya tidak bisa istirahat jadi seperti lingkaran setan! Batuk saya baru sembuh total sekitar 1.5 bulan sejak saya sakit! amazing!

Kenapa saya ngotot sembuh saat itu? Karena sebelum ke Indonesia, saya pulang melalui Korea Selatan dan Korsel sangat sensitif dengan MERS terutama dari middle east. Beberapa teman saya dikarantina karena demam dan batuk ketika landing di Korsel. Jika saya kena karantina, maka saya tidak akan bisa pulang ke Indonesia.

Untuk makanan Indonesia, sama seperti Madinah, di Mekkah juga terdapat beberapa makanan Indonesia, seperti grapari yang ada di lantai 5 Zam Zam Tower (namun harga lebih mahal daripada di Madinah), juara saya adalah masih ayam Al-baik yang ada di Hilton tower. Jika ada kesempatan, maka bisa juga ke Jeddah tepat nya di balad mall, terdapat warung Indonesia yang juga menjual teh pucuk harum. Di situ saya minum 3 botol teh pucuk dan salah satu penyebab batuk saya menggila. But who can resist the temptation of Teh pucuk Harum at 45 degree weather outside?

Warung Indonesia di Jeddah

Sebelum pulang, saya juga punya kesempatan untuk jalan-jalan di kota Jeddah. Bekas ibukota Arab Saudi ini tidak nampak berbeda dalam ingatan saya ketika tahun 2011. Beberapa bangunan tampak lebih lusuh dan tidak terawat. Namun saya tertarik dengan gentrifikasi yang dilakukan oleh dinas pariwisata Arab Saudi untuk menghidupkan kembali Jeddah Old Town.

Meskipun belum optimal, namun beberapa bangunan lama di Old Town terlihat masih meninggalkan sisa-sisa kecantikan yang khas di negara Arab. Pintu yang luar biasa cantik, bangunan dari bata yang dibakar hingga jendela-jendela kayu warna-warni. Ingatan saya terbawa pada setting lokasi Aladdin, ketika Aladdin dan Jasmine tidak sengaja bertemu di bazaar.

Jalanan di Jeddah Old Town, Cantik!

Salah Satu pintu yang juga sangat Cantik di Jeddah

Salah satu bangunan yang belum direnovasi optimal

Oke, sesuai dengan judul post ini, sesuai dengan pengalaman saya dan bertanya dengan Ustadz, berikut list hal-hal yang bisa dibawa / ditinggalkan saat musim haji:

Apakah harus memakai baju putih bagi perempuan? Selain pada saat umrah /haji kita tidak perlu memakai baju yang serba putih (anjuran adalah memakai baju yang tidak mencolok). Namun, karena saya pergi saat musim panas, baju putih rasanya the safest choice untuk menolak panas.
Berapa banyak baju yang kita bawa selama musim haji? Tergantung orangnya! bagi orang yang rajin mencuci tidak seperti saya, bisa membawa baju sampai 3 stel termasuk kerudung. Namun, karena saya tidak terlalu suka mencuci, saya membawa 5 stel baju namun itupun kebanyakan karena baju-baju di Mekkah terutama, lucu-lucu dan murah! Jadi kalau memang ada niatan untuk berbelanja, 3-5 stel baju cukup termasuk kerudung dan kaos kaki.
Sandal atau Sepatu? Saya bawa dua-duanya, sepatu olahraga untuk jalan panjang dan sandal jepit untuk mobilisasi selama di tenda.
Selain masa haram, skin cara apa saja yang harus kita bawa?

Sunblock kalau bisa SPF 120, Sun stick untuk wajah, pelembab wajah, lip balm, shampoo dan sabun non parfume untuk selama masa haram.
Masker kalau bisa yang khusus untuk pencegahan virus menular dan debu.
KACAMATA hitam, wajib! sangat wajib terutama di musim panas karena saat siang panasnya terik!
Obat-obatan seperti : obat flu (yang banyak), obat batuk, band-aid, betadine, tolak angin, sangobion (kalau suka nggliyeng seperti saya karena kebanyakan mimisan), obat untuk sakit kepala, koyo untuk pegel-pegel, dan counterpain / voltaren, antis atau detol buat cuci tangan.
tas canvas yang enteng untuk membawa sajadah, mukena dan Alqur'an (saya sih lebih suka baca versi di hp), kacamata, sunblock, dompet dan AIR MINUM! GA perlu bawa tas branded di sini, sudah berat ga ada yang merhatiin juga :(
Bawa tumbler air minum yang kapasitas besar tapi tidak berat!
Bawa sleeping bag ringan yang bisa berfungsi sebagai selimut atau alas saat tidur di Mina atau Muzdalifah. Saya juga membawa airbed ukuran single untuk di tenda.
Popmie jika memungkinkan, atau sambal dan rendang. Tidak perlu bawa rice cooker atau magic jar karena catering tahun ini cukup memuaskan untuk jamaah Indonesia (Why i know...refer to Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part II)
Payung lipat untuk melindungi dari sinar UV dan teriknya matahari, atau jika tiba-tiba hujan turun!
Perlu bawa mukena ga? Simply put, saya rasa cuma jamaah Asia tenggara yang menggunakan mukena untuk sholat, jamaah belahan dunia lain cukup menggunakan daily clothes yang pastinya menutup keseluruhan aurat. Jika ingin menghemat space, saya sarankan tidak perlu bawa, apalagi kalau mukena nya yang terbuat dari sutra india atau jepang--yang jika dilipat saja membutuhkan space 1 tas punggung.

Things that nice to know :

Saat musim panas, puncak panas adalah saat sholat Ashar. Jadi usahakan sholat di dalam masjid agar dapat AC dan keep hydrated. Range suhu di Mekkah/ Madinah adalah 40-45 derajat celcius seharian dengan real feels sekitar 47-50 derajat celcius. Bahkan saat shubuh, tidak jarang juga kita kepanasan. Kalau steak, mungkin kita bisa dibilang Medium Well :)
Jika dapat kesempatan untuk memilih hotel, pilih melalui agen travel yang menawarkan hotel terdekat dengan masjid terutama jika kita bersama orang tua. Karena level kompetisi dan kondisi yang kurang kondusif terkadang bisa terasa berat bagi orang tua.
Beberapa ATM bisa berfungsi dengan baik jika kita butuh SAR, bank seperti Al-Rahji atau NCB. Saudi Arabia masih menjunjung tinggi transaksi Cash.
Jika ingin membeli oleh-oleh, bisa beli paket oleh-oleh di supermarket yang terkadang diskon. Antara toko-toko yang dimiliki pedagang biasa baik di mall ataupun di pasar, biasanya mereka memasang harga seenaknya sendiri. Lebih baik teliti membeli dengan melakukan survey harga.
Datang 1 jam sebelum adzan agar mendapatkan posisi yang PEWE di dalam masjid.
Di Mina, banyak kejadian jamaah haji yang kecopetan, jadi alangkah bijaknya untuk tidak membawa banyak cash dan diamankan dengan baik. Beberapa orang asing terkadang keluar masuk tenda terutama saat penghuni tenda sedang aktivitas.
Mekkah lebih terbuka untuk urusan pilihan berbelanja, namun harganya relatif lebih mahal daripada Madinah.
Kurma Ajwa adalah kurma terlezat sepanjang sejarah. Kita bisa menawar ketika beli di kebun Kurma, tentu jika kita beli banyak.
Sakit saat Haji? Jangan khawatir! Beruntungnya jamaah Indonesia adalah banyaknya tenaga medis yang tersedia, atau jika tidak menemukan, cukup datang ke Zam-zam Tower basement, disana terdapat klinik gratis.
ID Haji sangat penting, selayaknya pengganti passport, jadi dijaga baik-baik! ID Haji bisa dipakai untuk berobat ke klinik gratis atau naik monorail selama lempar jumrah.
Sebagian besar toilet di Arab adalah toilet jongkok. Selain bagus untuk otot, namun lumayan menantang jika kita nongkrong lama-lama. Biasanya WC duduk tersedia di hotel bintang 5 atau mall modern. Plus, banyak fasilitas WC di rest area biasanya tidak terlalu bersih.
Banyak belanja tapi baggage allowance terbatas? solusinya adalah memesan jasa kurir pengiriman ke Indonesia yang banyak tersedia. Saya mengirim paket ke Jakarta dengan tarif sekitar 9 Riyal atau IDR 36 ribu per kilo (min 20kg) dengan waktu shipping selama 3 minggu. Menurut saya ini real deal banget terutama bagi yang mau belanja sajadah kashmir yang harganya super miring di Mekkah jika dibandingkan dengan harga di Indonesia (sekitar IDR 280rb vs IDR 2.5 juta).
Kasihan melihat cleaning service atau orang cacat yang meminta-minta? memberi is okay, tapi biasanya sekali memberi maka teman-temannya akan ikut mengeroyok kita untuk meminta sumbangan, jadi mending disiapkan recehan yang banyak!
Mau membayar fidyah? Coba komunikasikan dengan Muthowif atau Ustadz agar bisa dikoordinir bersama dengan jamaah lainnya dan disalurkan ke orang-orang yang tepat di tanah haram.
Thawaf di lantai bawah penuh dan bermaksud untuk thawaf di lantai 2 atau 3? It's okay, but it means it is longer pathway. Jika dalam keadaan normal kita bisa menyelesaikan thawaf selama 40 menit di lantai dasar, maka di lantai 2 atau 3 bisa sampai 1.5 jam, give or take dengan speed yang lebih cepat.

Me, husband and Mommy...muka lelah

Well, lastly, selain ibadah spiritual, Ibadah Haji ini sangatlah menguras energi kita tidak peduli berapapun usia kita. Banyak yang bilang bahwa hanya dengan izin Allah, tidak peduli bagaimanapun kondisi kita, jika Allah mengizinkan maka ibadah haji akan lancar. Yes, ini benar dan saya mengalaminya. Banyak orang yang mendadak sembuh bugar saat ibadah haji padahal sebelumnya tidak, atau sebaliknya.

Namun, sebagai manusia kita hanya bisa berikhtiar agar sebisa mungkin untuk menunaikan ibadah haji ini sedini mungkin saat segalanya memungkinkan baik secara materi, kesehatan maupun mental! Sama seperti jutaan manusia lainnya, mungkin ibadah haji sekali tidaklah cukup karena begitu banyak yang ingin disempurnakan kembali saat kita ibadah haji berikutnya.

So I will share my other thoughts later...whenever I remember to add something on the list!!!

See you soon!

Bacaan sebelumnya:

Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part II
Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part I

Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part II : Ujian kesabaran

2019-09-11T22:53:00.003-07:00

Terowongan Menuju Masjidil Haram

10 Dzulhijjah atau Hari puncaknya haji! Setelah semalam kami mabit di Muzdalifah, jam 6 pagi kami sudah dijemput oleh Bus untuk kembali ke tenda di Mina.

Meskipun sebelumnya kami dikasi tahu akan pindah ke Maktab 96, ternyata kami kembali ke Maktab 4. Saat tiba, kondisi maktab sudah penuh oleh jamaah haji Indonesia yang datang lebih pagi daripada kami.

Jika sebelumnya kami bisa memompa airbed untuk tidur, karena keterbatasan space, kami tidak diizinkan untuk menggunakan air bed. Tiap orang diberi jatah lebar tidur sebesar 30 cm...padahal bahu saya saja sudah lebih dari 30cm 😔.

Karena akan segera pergi melempar jumroh, kami hanya menaruh barang di tenda kemudian mengambil wudhu dan segeri pergi ke tempat jumarat. Sekitar 1.5 km dari tenda, terdapat stasiun kereta Mina 3 yang beroperasi sampai ke stasiun dekat lempar jumarat (jarak antara stasiun dan tempat melontar sekitar 1.5 km). Kereta layang tersebut disediakan khusus untuk mobilisasi jamaah haji dan bebas biaya. Jamaah cukup tapping ID Haji yang ada barcode nya untuk bisa menggunakan kereta tersebut.

Namun, dikarenakan kondisi yang luar biasa penuh dan ketidaktahuan pihak travel, kami berjalan kaki dari maktab 4 sampai ke lempar jumarat yaitu membutuhkan 5.8km , 1x perjalanan.

Kami berangkat sekitar pukul 9 pagi, berjalan kaki dan suhu udara sudah mencapai 39 derajat celcius. Jalanan yang lebar itu dipenuhi oleh jemaah haji berjalan kaki ataupun menggunakan kursi roda. Lautan putih itu berjalan dengan langkah lebar dan sepanjang jalan mengucapkan talbiyah:

Labbayka Allāhumma Labbayk. Labbayk Lā Sharīka Laka Labbayk. Inna l-Ḥamda, Wa n-Niʻmata, Laka wal Mulk, Lā Sharīka Lak.

Bayangkan, saat menonton konser penyanyi favorit atau MotoGp di tribun,bagaimana bersemangatnya kita? Happy dan Pumped up!

Perasaan itu, mewakili sekitar 10% dari perasaan saya saat berada di kerumunan manusia berbagai latar belakang, usia dan kondisi mengucapkan Talbiyah, rasanya seperti di tengah konser, namun kali ini ratusan kali lebih "ngena". Saya merasakan goosebumps dan mewek seketika (yes, kayaknya waktu Haji saya no days without mewek). Ya Allah, betapa murahNya rejeki yang Kau berikan padaku!

Admittedly, panas memang masih terasa dan menjadi sangat pengap karena lautan manusia berebut mendapat oksigen dari udara. Tapi, rasanya tidak lagi sepanas hari-hari lainnya. Mungkin saat itu endorphin mendinginkan tubuh saya.

Waktu yang terbaik melempar jumroh adalah setelah tergelincirnya matahari (setelah dzuhur) sampai dengan tengah malam. Mengikuti sunnah memang disarankan namun juga perlu diutamakan tentang keselamatan. Kondisi Mina pada saat haji adalah luar biasa padat jadi terkadang jamaah tidak bisa melontar sesuai waktu yang disarankan karena biasanya Muthowif telah membagi jadwal sesuai dengan region / darimana jamaah haji berasaldemi keselamatan masing-masing jamaah.

Pada 10 Dzulhijjah kami melontar pada pagi hari karena sebagian besar dari kami akan meneruskan thawaf ke Masjidil Haram sehingga akan ada waktu kembali ke Mina sebelum tengah malam.

Kami melontar di lantai 3 dan Alhamdulillah tidak terlalu padat. Selanjutnya, rombongan kami dibagi menjadi 2, yang kembali ke tenda Mina atau meneruskan thawaf ke Masjidil Haram.

Karena masih muda dan pede (baca:sombong), saya dan suami memilih meneruskan ke Masjidil Haram dengan pertimbangan berakit-rakit ke hulu berenang-renang ke tepian atau dengan kata lain biar capek sekalian, ga usah bolak balik.

Bagi jamaah Haji Plus Indonesia, maktab biasanya terletak dalam radius kurang dari 1km dari tempat lontar jumrah, terlebih bagi haji Furoda seperti Maktour, maktab terletak sekitar 200 meter saja. Dari maktab ke tempat lontar, mereka akan berjalan kemudian mereka akan naik bus kembali ke pemondokan di mekkah (apartemen). Beristirahat, kemudian mereka naik bus ke Masjidil Haram untuk melakukan thawaf dan akan kembali ke Mina sebelum tengah malam. Dengan itinerary ini, mereka tidak perlu berjalan jauh.

Namun bagi kami, kami mengikuti ibadah haji yang dilakukan oleh Rosullallah. Dari Mina kami berjalan ke Masjidil Haram bersama jamaah-jamaah dari negara-negara lainnya (saya tidak melihat jamaah haji reguler indonesia, mungkin berbeda jam). Menurut steps tracker, hari itu saya berjalan sekitar 30km, dari maktab 4-melontar- thawaf dan sa'i di Masjidil Haram.

Hari itu, saya menyebutnya hari mukjizat bagi rombongan kami. Kenapa? karena tidak ada yang tahu darimana kami mendapat tenaga untuk menyelesaikan ibadah hari itu.

Malam sebelumnya kami tidak diberi makan, pagi pun tidak sarapan dan kemudian kami juga melewatkan makan siang karena tidak mau berhenti ibadah di tengah-tengah.

Dengan jarak sejauh itu, dibahan-bakari oleh air minum, kami terus berjalan dan talbiyah. Kalau dipikir logika, seperti tidak mungkin kami masih baik-baik saja!

Sesampai di Masjidil Haram, kami melihat kondisi ka'bah yang luar biasa penuh. Berdesak-desakan, kami melihat kondisinya tidak kondusif terutama bagi saya, perempuan bertubuh mungil. Akhirnya kami memilih thawaf di lantai 2 yang berarti jaraknya semakin jauh karena diameternya semakin panjang.

Saat itu, hal yang paling membahagiakan adalah melihat lampu hijau yang merupakan tanda bahwa kami telah menyelesaikan 1 putaran thawaf. Tidak ada hal lain yang saya inginkan hari itu kecuali melihat lampu hijau secepat mungkin.

Selesai thawaf, kaki saya mulai rontok karena saat itu saya juga sedang demam gara-gara serangan flu. Saya dan suami sudah terpisah jauh dari rombongan, akhirnya memilih duduk di tangga sebelum memulai sa'i.

Setelah mengumpulkan tenaga, kami memulai sa'i dan rasanya telapak kaki saya sudah mulai mati rasa. Kami berjalan selambat siput di film Turbo.

Selesai, saya melihat jam sudah menunjukkan pukul 3 sore. Saya berjalan dari jam 9 pagi sampai 3 sore, tanpa makanan sesuap pun. Jika bukan karena izin Allah, saya yakin tidak bisa menyelesaikan ibadah hari itu, itulah kenapa saya menyebutnya mukjizat bagi saya. Bahkan di sepanjang jalan, saya melihat banyak orang pingsan, muntah-muntah atau akhirnya menyerah memanggil kursi roda.

Lorong tempat melakukan Sa'i

After that, perjuangan kami belum selesai. Kami harus berjalan untuk mencari makan dengan penuh perjuangan. Karena ramai, banyak pintu di masjidil Haram ditutup, jadi kami harus memutar jauh untuk mencapai Zam-zam tower untuk mencari makan.

Belum selesai, kami harus berjalan mencari tukang cukur rambut untuk melakukan tahalul awwal. Seluruh tukang cukur rambut penuh, bahkan menolak karena antrian yang sudah panjang. Saya duduk di pinggir jalan, kosong dan lelah. Dalam kondisi seperti itu, saya berfikir bahwa ibadah ini tidak hanya menguras fisik namun juga mental saya, karena semuanya berjalan sangat lambat, meleset dari prediksi saya. Saya akui, selama ini saya orangnya sangat keras dengan diri saya sendiri jika ingin mencapai sesuatu. Target saya, saya menyelesaikan ibadah jam 3 sore dan akan punya waktu untuk istirahat sebelum kembali ke Mina.

Namun saat itu sudah jam 5 sore dan suami saya masih memutar-mutar mencari tukang cukur. Di situ saya belajar sabar, dan mencoba melepaskan dari self control saya yang terlalu dalam (baca: melepaskannya dengan ngomel ke suami ha..ha..ha).

Short story, saya tiba di apartemen hampir menjelang maghrib dengan drama naik taxi termahal untuk jarak 2 km. Mandi dan sholat, saya berangkat kembali ke Mina.

Perjalanan kembali ke Mina, tidak mungkin kami harus berjalan kembali. Kami mengambil inisiatif dengan naik omprengan. Bersama dengan 9 orang teman lainnya, kami mencegat mobil pribadi dan minta diantar ke titik terdekat dengan tenda kami yang masih bisa dilalui mobil. Kami membayar sekitar 200 riyal yang menurut kami cukup murah dibagi 9 orang. Beberapa teman lainnya membayar sekitar 400 riyal. Kunci dalam menawar adalah dengan mengancam bahwa jika pengemudi mengambil untung terlalu banyak dari orang beribadah,maka dia akan berdosa...ha ha ha..

Kondisi dalam tenda

Kami diturunkan di jalan tol dan harus berjalan sekitar 1.5 km sampai tenda. Namun 1.5 km rasanya seperti 200 meter karena siangnya kami membabat 30km. Sesampai di tenda, kami harus menghadapi kenyataan bahwa tenda super full bahkan ada beberapa mbak-mas yang ga kebagian tenda. Beberapa orang tidur di luar, bahkan ibu hamil 😞😞.

Jamaah diperbolehkan mengambil 2 pilihan untuk tinggal di Mina yaitu Nafar tsani atau Nafar Awal. Sebagian besar jamaah Indonesia memilih Nafar Awal yaitu berarti 3 hari mabit di Mina dan 3 kali melontar jumrah. Satu kali (7 kerikil) pada 10 dzulhijjah, 21 kerikil pada 11 Dzulhijjah dan 21 kerikil pada 12 Dzulhijjah sebelum meninggalkan Mina.

Sementara rombongan kami memilih Nafar Tsani yaitu tinggal 1 malam lebih lama sampai 13 Dzulhijjah dan menambah 1 x melontar.

Selama 11-13 Dzulhijjah kami tidak kembali ke Apartemen namun setelah melontar kami langsung kembali ke tenda (mampir juga sih di Al-baik Mina), dengan jarak1 kali pp dari maktab ke tempat melontar sekitar 10km. Kami juga tidak memanfaatkan moda kereta karena mendengar dari teman-teman, membutuhkan jalan memutar dan pada suka tersesat.

Tantangan selama tinggal 3 hari di Mina pun juga sangat bervariasi. Dari antrian toilet panjang, perebutan tempat tidur sampai tidak ada pasokan makanan pagi dan malam dari pihak travel.

Kisah toilet menurut saya paling lucu. Berulang kali saya bilang bahwa jutaan manusia di sana dengan karakter dan background berbeda, membuat kita akan mengingat kembali jaman jambore masa SD-kali ini lebih lucu.

Banyak jamaah perempuan yang tidak bisa antri saat menggunakan toilet, ada juga yang mandi di tempat wudhu, ada pula yang pipis di tempat wudhu. Jika ditegur, mereka akan lebih galak daripada yang negur. Banyak alasan untuk tidak antri dan tidak mau kena kencing batu paling populer.

Kondisi toilet pun kotor. Banyak yang membuang barang-barang pribadi perempuan di dalam bilik kamar mandi instead of tempat sampah. Jadi, kalau tidak terpaksa banget, saya tidak akan menggunakan kamar mandi.

Hal yang agak menantang sebenarnya ketika sebelum tahalul awal, ketika dalam keadaan haram, diantara perempuan juga harus menjaga aurat. Tidak sehelai rambutpun boleh terlihat meskipun di depan perempuan lainnya. Masalahnya ketika wudhu bersama-sama, kaki juga akan terlihat oleh jamaah lainya. Sementara bagi laki-laki tidak boleh menutup kaki bahkan saat tidur, yang berarti tidak diperbolehkan memakai selimut.

Namun setelah tahalul awal, tantangan selanjutnya adalat battle of toilet. Bagi rombongan kami, tantangan tambahannya adalah us vs hunger karena travel agent punya cara unik untuk berkelit memberi kami makan pagi dan makan malam. Tak jarang, kami mendapatkan nasi kotak dari jamaah Indonesia out of empathy. Satu nasi kotakpun bisa kami bagi bertiga sampai berempat. Alhamdulillah.

Jamaah Indonesia baik reguler dan plus pun mendapat previllage lebih dari pemerintah Indonesia. Katering masakan indo yang lumayan sedap, petugas medis yang selalu siap sedia di tiap embarkasi sampai dengan banyaknya petugas Indonesia yang berjaga untuk mengarahkan jamaah jika tersesat atau bingung.

Selama di Mina, kami memperbanyak ibadah, membaca Alqur'an dan menjalin silaturrahim dengan mbak-mbak dan ibu-ibu serombongan kami. Karena travel agent Haji kami punya presence di Korea, Hong Kong dan Jepang, jadi saya bertemu banyak orang dengan background berbeda. Ada warga negara hong kong yang menjadi ceo perusahaan export import, ada tenaga kerja wanita yang pergi dengan bos laki-lakinya yang baru saja mualaf, ada perawat yang selalu membimbing pasiennya (orang jepang) mengucapkan syahadat pada saat sakaratul maut, ada juga mantan ceo yang menikah dengan warga negara Korea. Ada yang termuda, ada mahasiswi, ada juga ibu-ibu usia lanjut yang terlihat lemah namun sangat kuat.

Lantai Dasar tempat Melontar

Saya mendengar berbagai macam kisah hidup yang menginspiratif, bagaimana perjalanan mereka untuk bisa haji atau berada di negara tempat kami tinggal sekarang. Begitu mudah kami bersahabat seolah seluruh prejudice yang selama ini menjadi tembok hilang tanpa batas.

Korea adalah negara dimana kamu memperhatikan how do you look and where are you come from. Berada di tenda itu, kami sama sekali melupakan semua itu. Seorang hafiz Alqur'an yang tidak menatap saya dari apa yang saya pakai atau dari kegemaran saya.

Betapa indahnya persahabatan yang ditawarkan oleh Islam di sana. Kami tidak bicara politik, tidak ada tatapan dari atas ke bawah dan tidak ada yang sedang menyebarkan keyakinan ekstrimisme di sana. Di sana kami semua berteguh pada:

" Lakum dīnukum wa liya dīn

Untukmu agamamu, dan untukku agamaku.”

لَكُمْ دِينُكُمْ وَلِيَ دِينِ

Referensi: https://tafsirweb.com/37398-surat-al-kafirun.html

Saya ingat waktu mahasiswa baru, terdapat satu kegiatan mentoring dimana saya dan teman saya selalu kabur saat itu. Jiwa muda saya memberontak hanya karena salah satu senior menjudge saya karena rok pendek yang saya kenakan. Dia serta merta memberi label saya tanpa mengetahui kepribadian ataupun dasar agama yang saya miliki, sementara saya menyama-ratakan bahwa semua senior di kegiatan mentoring memiliki pemikiran sama dengan senior judgy.

Well, hal inilah yang banyak saya ingat ketika perjalanan haji. Flashback tentang bagaimana saya bisa menjadi sekarang. Kekurangan, kesalahan, kesembronoan yang seharusnya bisa dihadapi dengan bijak. Allah yang maha pemaaf telah memberi saya kesempatan yang luar biasa luas untuk melihat kembali diri saya yang dahulu dan Insya Allah mengingatkan saya agar menjadi manusia yang lebih baik.

Kembali ke melontar jumroh, Pada tanggal 11 dan 12 Dzulhijjah, saya memilih mengikuti sunnah yaitu melontar setelah matahari tergelincir. Namun sayangnya waktu tanggal 11 dzulhijjah, hujan deras kembali melanda Mina. Karena banyak saluran yang tersumbat sampah, air hujan mulai menggenang di jalanan meskipun tidak sampai masuk tenda.

Jalanan setelah melontar pada sebelum Maghrib

12 Dzulhijjah setelah hujan lebat

Ba'da Ashar, ketika puncak panas

Melontar ketika matahari terbit

Selama beberapa jam, jalanan di tutup menuju ke tempat melontar dan kami baru bisa melakukannya pada ba'da maghrib. Dan karena masih pasca hujan, banyak jalan yang ditutup, akhirnya kami harus memutar agak lumayan jauh malam itu. Untungnya, sebelum kembali ke tenda, kami mengisi bahan bakar dengan nugget Al-baik.

Di 12 Dzulhijjah, banyak jamaah yang memilih Nafar awal yang berarti bahwa tempat melontar akan sangat penuh setelah ba'da dzuhur. Kami saat itu salah strategi karena melontar di lantai dasar yang biasanya lebih disukai karena paling dekat. Desak-desakan, semua orang berjuang untuk berada paling dekat dengan tembok. Saling menginjak kaki, dorong-dorongan. Bagi manusia mungil seperti perempuan Indonesia, hal ini sangat seram karena dijamin lebih bar-bar daripada antrian KRL.

Jamaah Al Baik

Saran saya untuk perempuan, lebih baik memeluk erat-erat mahram nya agar tidak terjatuh dan terinjak. Dan berhati-hatilah jika terdapat kursi roda, karena jika tertabrak kursi roda, pasti akan lebam atau berdarah (been there 😹)

(Intermezzo about Mahram, Ustadz saya bilang bahwa orang asia tenggara sering mengartikan muhrim sebagai mahram. Padahal arti sesungguhnya muhrim adalah orang yang sedang ber-ihram).

Di hari terakhir di Mina, kami berangkat melontar jam 4 pagi karena bus akan menjemput jam 8 pagi untuk kembali ke Makkah, sesuai dengan saran Ustadz kami. Beberapa orang di rombongan kami memilih untuk melempar setelah matahari terbit sesuai sunnah dan tidak ikut bus.

Pada bagian puncak haji ini, saya pikir setiap orang pasti memiliki pengalaman yang berbeda-beda dan sangat personal. Karena itu di bagian ini saya banyak bercerita pengalaman pribadi karena this hopefully shape and improve my self better.

Tantangan-tantangan soal toilet, space tidur mungkin bisa saja kita jumpai saat kita outgoing person yang hobi melakukan camping. Namun bagi saya, pengalaman ini sangat personal karena basically ini tantangan pribadi saya. Saya yang sangat rewel terhadap toilet, diberi fear factor seperti itu dan saya sangat bangga pada diri sendiri, because I passed it without drama. Saya bahkan heran bagaimana bisa tidak snap atau mengeluh selama di sana. 😹

Dan yang paling berkesan adalah bagaimana saya diberi kesempatan untuk merefleksikan diri dengan mudah. Karena jujur, saat dulu mengikut jurit malam atau mengikuti ESQ terutama ketika diminta untuk merefleksikan diri, pikiran saya blank. Saya tidur nyenyak saat jurit malam, sementara saat ESQ yang lain menangis, saya hanya diam mengamati (oke, saya bebal hahaha).

Oke, karena sudah sangat panjang, saya akan melanjutkan di bagian III yaitu selama beribadah di Mekkah dan tentu barang-barang yang wajib dan tidak perlu dibawa selama Haji!

To be Continued!!

Sebelumnya : Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part I : I am Blessed!

Selanjutnya : Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part III : Dos and Don'ts

Catatan Perjalanan Haji Bagian I : I am Blessed!

2019-09-08T08:21:00.000-07:00

Ka'bah pada Masa Haji

Sekitar 20 tahun yang lalu, saya pernah bercakap-cakap dengan teman baik saya. Saat itu kami masih berseragam putih merah,dan kami mengobrol tentang hal apa yang tidak terbayang dalam benak kami saat itu.

Teman : " Aku sing paling gak iso mbayangno iku ngelahirno. Yo opo yo lorone?" (Aku paling tidak bisa membayangkan kalau melahirkan. Bagaimana ya sakitnya?)
Saya : "Lek aku munggah kaji, uadoh banget" (Kalau aku, naik haji. Jauh banget).

Saat itu saya terbayang cerita Ibu saya, Naik Haji jaman dahulu ditempuh menggunakan kapal laut dan membutuhkan waktu berbulan-bulan untuk kembali ke tanah air. Belum terbayang dalam benak saya sudah ada metode cepat naik Haji yaitu dengan pesawat! (Maafkan, saat itu pesawat belum booming karena Adam Air belum muncul!)

Dua puluh tahun kemudian, teman saya sudah memiliki 3 anak, tentu melalui proses melahirkan!

Dan dua puluh tahun kemudian, pembicaraan singkat dengan teman saya tersebut tiba-tiba terlintas saat akhirnya saya berangkat naik Haji! Sebuah proses yang sebelumnya tak terbayangkan, kini sangat dekat dengan memori saya. Sesegar sushi salmon yang saya makan siang tadi.

Perjalanan niat untuk naik haji secara bulat, bisa dibilang bukan yang direncanakan dari awal saya bertemu Suami. Bahkan, belum masuk dalam bucket list kami. Namun saat akhirnya saya 'menerima' untuk diberangkatkan dinas ke Korea, saya casually bercerita ke suami tentang salah satu keuntungan dinas di Luar Negeri, yaitu bisa naik Haji dengan cepat. Saat itu, akhirnya kami niat ingsun untuk Haji dari Korea.

Berangkat Haji dari Korea, luar biasa dimudahkan. Kami mendaftar di bulan Januari dan di bulan Maret kami mendapat quota untuk berangkat. Sayangnya, di Korea hanya ada 1 Travel Agent yang bisa mengurus calon jamaah haji. And when it comes to monopoly, you can imagine how the service would be.

Haji dari Korea tidak diatur oleh Pemerintah Korea, namun dilakukan secara swadaya dan dikoordinir oleh travel agent yang mengatur akomodasi, transportasi dan membimbing selama ibadah haji kami.

Keuntungan lain, haji dari Korea tidak semahal haji Plus dari Indonesia meskipun tidak semurah haji reguler dari Indonesia juga. Perjalanan haji kami ditempuh total sebanyak 22 hari di Saudi Arabia, 8 hari di Madinah dan 14 hari di Mekkah.

Well, saya sebenarnya galau apakah saya harus menulis perjalanan tentang Haji ini dalam blog atau tidak untuk menghindari riya'. Namun mempertimbangkan bahwa sebelum berangkat haji, saya sama sekali tidak memiliki bayangan apa saja yang dilakukan selama haji dan tidak banyak referensi yang bisa saya temui di internet. Jadi, saya berharap tulisan ini dapat membantu memberi gambaran tentang Ibadah Haji, persiapan yang harus dilakukan dan sedikit cerita saya pribadi bagaimana perjalanan Haji ini menimbulkan kesan yang sangat dalam bagi kepribadian saya.

Jadi Bismillah, saya akan menceritakan semoga seringkas dan seberguna mungkin perjalanan haji saya ini.

Berangkat!

Kami berangkat tanggal 30 Agustus 2019 via Etihad Airways. Kebetulan, tahun 2019 adalah pertama kalinya apply visa Haji melalui web based, alhasil sempat terjadi drama deg-deg an visa haji yang tak kunjung keluar. Namun H-4, Alhamdulillah visa Haji kami keluar dan kami langsung packing barang untuk dimasukkan ke koper. Karena sangat mendadak, bahkan sampai menit terakhir kami masih sibuk packing (Saya akan membagikan apa saja yang harus di packing saat ibadah Haji pada post selanjutnya! agar tidak salah seperti saya!)

Bahkan saat kami tiba di terminal Haji Jeddah, semuanya masih terasa absurd. Rasanya seperti kami sedang Umroh, bukan Haji. Sampai sekarang, saya dan suami tidak percaya akan keberuntungan kami, karena kebetulan tahun ini Mama saya juga mendapatkan kuota haji dari Indonesia sehingga kami bisa berangkat bersama.

Sebelumnya saat manasik haji yang hanya diselenggarakan 1x (dibandingkan dengan Mama saya harus manasik seminggu 2x selama 3 bulan berturut-turut!), kami diingatkan bahwa perjalanan Haji membutuhkan banyak stock kesabaran dan kekuatan! Hal itu terus diulang-ulang hingga membuat saya penasaran 😅😅😅...dan ternyata memang benar! Saya akan sedikit membagikannya di sini dan post selanjutnya untuk lebih mengerti tantangan kami selama haji.

Jadwal Ibadah kami dimulai di Kota Madinah. Jadi setelah tiba di Jeddah kami harus langsung bergeser ke Madinah. Jarak antara Madinah dan Jeddah sekitar 400 kilometer dan ditempuh melalui perjalanan darat / bus.

Namun dikarenakan musim haji, proses pergerakan kami sangat lambat karena begitu banyak prosedur yang dilalui saat jamaah harus bergeser dari 1 titik ke titik lainnya.

Keluar dari bandara, kami harus menunggu sekitar 3 jam di pelataran bandara sampai bus datang menjemput. Kemudian naik ke atas bus, kami harus menyerahkan passport kepada petugas imigrasi yang akan memeriksa tiap penumpang yang naik ke bus, apakah sudah sesuai dengan jumlah passport. Passport kemudian akan dipegang oleh sopir bus. Ya, sopir bus!

Proses menunggu petugas imigrasipun memakan waktu 2 jam! Akhirnya kami berangkat sekitar pukul 5 sore lebih, padahal kami landing sekitar jam 12 siang.

Mendekati kota Madinah, kami harus melewati Chekpoint kembali. Petugas akan kembali memeriksa passport dan penumpang. Seingat saya, proses ini dilakukan hanya pada saat musim Haji, untuk menghindari jamaah gelap yang ingin masuk ke tanah haram. Bahkan Mama saya bercerita di dalam busnya, beberapa orang harus dipisahkan berdasarkan jenis visa nya (Haji Plus/ Furoda) dan harus diinterograsi selama beberapa jam.

Akhirnya kami tiba di Madinah tengah malam, sekitar 7 jam perjalanan. Padahal di waktu normal, bisa ditempuh dalam waktu 3.5-4 jam.

The loveliest Sight at Masjid Nabawi

Namun, melihat kembali bangunan masjid Nabawi, rasanya air mata saya menetes langsung. Tidak ada tempat yang bisa membuat saya sangat rindu dan bahagia bisa berada di sana kembali, kecuali tanah haram, Makkah dan Madinah.

Hotel kami berada jauh di belakang, dekat dengan Gate 6 karena pemondokan saat musim haji mengikuti pembagian negara. Sementara jamaah Indonesia banyak berada di gate 15-16 tepat di pusat perbelanjaan dan dekat dengan Masjid Madinah

Selama 8 hari berada di Madinah, Ustadz pembimbing kami mengatakan bahwa ini adalah sebuah pemanasan. Dengan suhu 45 derajat celcius, bahkan 40 derajat saat malam hari, tidak ada apa-apanya dibandingkan kebutuhan fisik dan mental saat kami haji nanti.

Suhu 45 derajat celcius di saat sholat Ashar adalah salah satu tantangan yang memberatkan kaki untuk melangkah ke Masjid Nabawi. Maunya sholat shubuh dan Isya saja di Masjid kalau tidak ingat pahala dan begitu menyenangkan sholat di Masjid Nabawi.

Namun suasana masjid Nabawi ketika musim Haji dan tidak, sangat berbeda! Musim Haji berarti lautan manusia berkumpul di sana, dan hampir semua orang ingin sholat di dalam masjid karena AC dan tentu saja pahala.

Gedung-gedung di Madinah

Untuk bisa sholat di dalam Masjid Nabawi, saya harus datang 1 jam sebelumnya dengan 15 menit sebelum Adzan, saya harus berjuang untuk mempertahankan posisi saya agar shaf saya tidak dirampas orang lain.

Ketika musim haji, jutaan manusia dari ratusan negara berkumpul disana. Tempat yang terbatas, kebiasaan yang berbeda membuat battle mencari dan mempertahankan tempat sholat adalah kisah unik yang setiap orang pasti punya!

Terlebih saat harus berjuang untuk dapat sholat di taman surga, Raudhah. Bagi jamaah perempuan, waktu dibukanya Raudhah dibatasi hanya pada saat jam 8 -11 pagi dan setelah sholat Isya'. Jadi kekuatan yang dibutuhkan saat berada di Madinah pas musim Haji dan musim panas adalah :

Ketahanan pada panas. Sangat-sangat-sangat panas, terik, kering dan silau.
Kekuatan diri menahan amarah dan memaafkan ketika diinjak, dijepit, didorong atau kepala secara random dipegang oleh orang.
Kekuatan mempertahankan posisi, terutama saat kita dijepit dan hampir terusir sebelum sholat.
Kekuatan menyelinap, keuntungan jadi orang Indonesia berbadan kecil adalah akan mudah menyelinap diantara kerumunan orang untuk mendapatkan posisi bagus.

With the Girls after Raudah

Saya pergi ke Raudah pada hari terakhir minus 2 (H-4 sebelum mabit di Mina), sebelum kami berangkat ke Mekkah untuk menjalani ibadah Haji. Saya dengar H-3 sebelum mabid di Mina, Raudah relatif sepi karena jamaah sudah mulai bergeser ke Mekkah.

Dan Allah maha sayang sama umat-Nya, begitu banyak ilham dan hikmah yang saya dapatkan selama Battle of Nabawi. Terlepas dari begitu banyak manusia berdesak-desakkan, untuk ke-jarang kalinya saya bisa belajar untuk sholat kusyu'. Tidak ada apapun yang saya dengarkan kecuali suara Imam dan tidak pernah saya merasa begitu dekat dengan Allah seperti saat itu (bahkan saat mengingat kembali, air mata saya menitik kembali). Seperti kembali ke rumah, perasaan begitu tenang dan nyaman karena begitu dekat dengan orang tua yang menyayangi saya, apapun keadaan dan kondisi saya.

Saya yang selalu sholat kilat mendekati adzan sholat berikutnya, disana belajar kembali untuk sholat dengan benar. Allah yang Maha Baik, dengan pemurahnya membimbing saya ketika saya begitu fokus pada duniawi. Allah yang Maha Pemaaf, dengan sabar menunggu saya untuk kembali dan menyambut dengan penuh berkah dan rahmat.

Well, just like i said before there is no place in this world that make your soul naked absolutely, instead the most favorite place of Prophet Muhammad SAW.

Di sana, saya kembali mengingat pertanyaan teman saya yang memilih untuk menjadi atheis.
"Bagaimana kamu tahu kalau kamu memeluk agama yang benar?"

Saat itu saya tidak bisa menjelaskan dengan kata-kata yang baik karena kami berdebat antara logika dan agama sebagai warisan dari orang tua. Namun ketika berada begitu dekat dengan Allah di sana, even your whole body know that you are belong to Allah! Banyak logika yang bisa dijelaskan dan lebih banyak lagi iman yang tidak dapat diungkapkan dengan kata-kata.

Sama seperti saat engkau bertemu dengan suamimu untuk pertama kalinya, you just knew it!

Selain itu, hal yang paling menyenangkan berada di Madinah adalah bagaimana orang sangat bermurah hati membagikan minuman dingin gratis kepada Jamaah. Setiap selesai sholat berjamaah, ada banyak orang yang tiba-tiba membuka mobil, membagikan minuman-minuman kepada siapapun yang lewat. Selama 8 hari di Madinah, saya tidak pernah membeli mineral water karena selalu mendapatkan gratis atau mengisi dengan air zam-zam.

Al-Baik

Selain itu, di Madinah saya kecanduan Ayam Al-Baik. Awalnya, teman yang menceritakan ada Ayam goreng ala KFC yang enak dan asli dari Saudi, namanya Al-Baik. Kemudian saya cari di Map, dan menemukan Al-Baik di dekat exit 22 -sekitar 1.8 km dari Hotel saya. Saat mencobanya, well, ayam ini enak! bukan sangat lezat tapi sangat lumayan netral dari spices- makanan khas di tanah Saudi yang tidak terlalu cocok di lidah saya. Admittedly, hampir tiap 2 hari saya dan suami berjalan ke Al-baik 😁😁 dan mencoba seluruh menu. Emang enak kok!

Selain itu, banyak makanan Indonesia di Madinah diantaranya Al-qarat di exit 15/16 atau di Grapari di exit 20. Pilihan makanan Indonesia tersebut sangat lumayan jika kita tidak terbiasa dengan masakan yang penuh spices seperti di Saudi.

Rumah Makan Indonesia (AL-Qarat) di exit 15/16

Selama kepanasan di sana, ide-ide liar bermunculan di kepala saya (sebagai alternatif mengeluh) yaitu mengapa pemerintah Saudi tidak membangun underground pathway dari Masjid Nabawi ke Hotel-hotel/ halte bus/ stasiun subway untuk melindungi pejalan kaki dari teriknya matahari di negeri itu. Saya melihat banyak parkiran di basement di Madinah yang berarti struktur tanahnya mungkin feasible untuk dibangun underground pathway. Karena cara inilah yang dipakai kota Sapporo untuk melindungi pejalan kaki dari dinginnya musim dingin berkepanjangan. Because speaking about money, surely Saudi Arabia as the rich country has a lot of money 😌🙇...or at least please built Rapid Train from Makkah to Madinah 😄

Umroh dan Haji

Saya berangkat dari Madinah ke Makkah pada tanggal 6 Agustus 2019, sementara rangkaian Ibadah Haji di mulai pada tanggal 09 Agustus 2019 yaitu pada saat mabid di Mina.

Karena kami sudah mengambil niat umrah di Bir Ali, sesampai di Mekkah kami langsung melakukan umrah. Kami berangkat dari Madinah sekitar jam 6 sore, kemudian mengambil miqad di Bir Ali dan tiba di Mekkah sekitar jam 3 pagi! Perjalanan lebih dari 9 jam untuk 400km!

Sebelum masa haji, kami transit di Apartemen dekat dengan terminal Kuday. Setelah menaruh koper di Apartemen, sekitar jam setengah 7 pagi kami berangkat ke Masjidil Haram untuk melakukan umrah.

Dari apartemen kami naik bus warna merah dari terminal Kuday ke Masjidil Haram dengan biaya sekitar SAR30 untuk pulang pergi (kadang bisa gratis-kadang bayar, kami tidak mengerti bagaimana cara kerjanya!). Dan Alhamdulillah saat umrah, saat itu Mekkah sedang mendung tebal. Suasana ka'bah pun tidak terlalu ramai. We are so blessed!

Sebelumnya, saat akhirnya saya melihat kembali ka'bah, tidak terasa lutut ini bergetar dan air mata terus menetes. Well, See how much I miss this sight, ya Allah! Dan tak lama setelah kami melakukan thawaf dan sa'i, tiba-tiba Masjidil Haram dipenuhi jamaah yang ingin melakukan umrah.

Kami kembali ke apartemen, lelah dan ngantuk untuk membayar lunas kurang tidur semalam.

Selama musim haji, jalanan menuju masjidil haram menjadi sangat macet dan ditutup di sekitar depan Hotel Ayjad (+/- 200 meter dari pintu King Abdul Aziz). Meskipun banyak bus tersedia, namun untuk berangkat ke masjidil haram kami memilih naik taxi bersama-sama karena lebih cepat (meskipun pengemudi taxi memilih mematikan argo dan bernegosiasi tarif dengan jamaah). Untuk perjalanan pergi dari apartemen ke masjidil haram, biasanya dikenakanSAR 20-30 (sekitar IDR 80-120rb) untuk jarak 2km, dan untuk perjalanan pulang sekitar SAR 40-50.

Good news, di Makkah juga terdapat Al-Baik di dekat exit 4/5 atau di Gedung Hilton! Dan di Mekkah, begitu banyak pilihan makanan di Gedung Zam-zam tower termasuk Grapari di lantai 4 dan 5.

Mabit di Mina

Suasana di dalam Tenda dengan Airbed yang kami bawa

Kami diberitahu bahwa Ibadah haji yang kami jalani adalah sesuai dengan Ibadah yang dilakukan oleh Nabi Muhammad S.A.W yaitu dimulai dengan mabit di Mina pada tanggal 09 Agustus 2019. Kebetulan tahun 2019, jamaah Indonesia tidak melakukan mabit di Mina karena pertimbangan cuaca dan energi yang harus disimpan.

Kemudian drama haji kami dimulai di hari pertama kami tiba di Mina, yaitu perpindahan maktab dari maktab 96 ke maktab 4. Maktab 4 terletak di pinggiran Mina bahkan sudah masuk wilayah Muzdalifah. Maktab yang sangat jauh konsekuensinya adalah jarak yang sangat jauh ke Mekkah dan tempat jumarat. Selain itu, karena saking jauhnya, pedagang malas berjualan di sekitar kami dan berarti pasokan jajanan tidak ada. Sementara Maktab kami sebelumnya adalah 96, yang lebih dekat dengan tempat Jumarat dan lebih dekat dengan maktab mama saya di 115. Jarak antara maktab 4 ke lempar jumarat adalah sekitar 4.8km!

Mabit di Mina berarti kami bermalam di Mina. Akomodasi kami di Mina adalah berupa tenda dengan AC atau disebut maktab. Dalam satu maktab biasanya terdapat sekitar lebih dari 1500 jamaah dan jumlah toilet yang super terbatas sekitar total 40 bilik yang tersebar di 2 lokasi.

Karena jamaah Indonesia belum datang, jadi kami masih cukup leluasa menggunakan tenda maupun toilet.

Selama mabid di Mina, kami dianjurkan banyak beribadah, istighfar, membaca shalawat dan membaca Al-Qur'an. Di situ kami banyak-banyak memikirkan tentang hubungan kita dengan Sang Khalik. Apa saja yang saya lakukan dalam hidup saya, dosa-dosa saya dan begitu murahnya Allah memberi saya banyak rejeki, termasuk diberi kesempatan untuk naik Haji.

Luar biasanya lagi, tetangga tidur saya adalah gadis cilik berusia 7 tahun yang sangat cerdas, cantik dan ceria. Iram, gadis cilik itu bahkan meminta untuk diajarkan membaca iqro'..well, tell me how am i not melting during that time ? T_T

My favorite Girl!

Selama memulai ibadah haji, kami meninggalkan semua hal duniawi yang menempel di diri kami. Untuk Pria, dalam keadaan haram harus memakai Ihram (tidak memakai kain yang berjahit), tidak memakai wewangian sementara wanita tidak diperbolehkan memakai wangi-wangian dan harus menutup aurat. Well, tidak memakai wangi-wangian berarti kami harus menanggalkan sunblock,sabun, parfum pastinya, pelembab, handbody dan lain-lain. Namun sebelumnya kami membeli sabun dan shampoo khusus haji (non-perfume) di supermarket Bin dawood, persiapan bila kami butuh untuk mandi selama ibadah haji.

Detail larangan selama memakai Ihram (dalam keadaan haram) adalah berikut :

1. Mencukur rambut dari seluruh badan

2. Menggunting kuku

3. Menutup wajah bagi perempuan

4. Mengenakan pakaian berjahit bagi laki-laki

5. Menggunakan Wewangian

6. Berburu

7. Melakukan Akad Nikah

8. Melakukan Hubungan Intim

Jika melanggar, jamaah diwajibkan membayar fidyah yang besarnya tergantung dengan larangan yang dilanggar.

Mencukur rambut dari seluruh badan (seperti rambut kepala, bulu ketiak, bulu kemaluan, kumis dan jenggot).

Menggunting kuku.

Menutup kepala dan menutup wajah bagi perempuan kecuali jika lewat laki-laki yang bukan mahrom di hadapannya.

Mengenakan pakaian berjahit yang menampakkan bentuk lekuk tubuh bagi laki-laki seperti baju, celana dan sepatu.

Menggunakan harum-haruman.

Memburu hewan darat yang halal dimakan. Yang tidak termasuk dalam larangan adalah: (1) hewan ternak (seperti kambing, sapi, unta, dan ayam), (2) hasil tangkapan di air, (3) hewan yang haram dimakan (seperti hewan buas, hewan yang bertaring dan burung yang bercakar), (4) hewan yang diperintahkan untuk dibunuh (seperti kalajengking, tikus dan anjing), (5) hewan yang mengamuk (Shahih Fiqh Sunnah, 2: 210-211)

Melakukan khitbah dan akad nikah.

Jima’ (hubungan intim). Jika dilakukan sebelum tahallul awwal (sebelum melempar jumroh Aqobah), maka ibadah hajinya batal. Hanya saja ibadah tersebut wajib disempurnakan dan pelakunya wajib menyembelih seekor unta untuk dibagikan kepada orang miskin di tanah suci. Apabila tidak mampu, maka ia wajib berpuasa selama sepuluh hari, tiga hari pada masa haji dan tujuh hari ketika telah kembali ke negerinya. Jika dilakukan setelah tahallul awwal, maka ibadah hajinya tidak batal. Hanya saja ia wajib keluar ke tanah halal dan berihram kembali lalu melakukan thowaf ifadhoh lagi karena ia telah membatalkan ihramnya dan wajib memperbaharuinya. Dan ia wajib menyembelih seekor kambing.

Mencumbu istri di selain kemaluan. Jika keluar mani, maka wajib menyembelih seekor unta. Jika tidak keluar mani, maka wajib menyembelih seekor kambing. Hajinya tidaklah batal dalam dua keadaan tersebut (Taisirul Fiqh, 358-359).

Simak selengkapnya disini. Klik https://muslim.or.id/10165-fikih-haji-5-larangan-ketika-ihram.html

Sementara untuk gosok gigi, Ustadz pembimbing kami membolehkan menggunakan pasta gigi selama niatnya adalah untuk kebersihan bukan untuk wewangian.

Wukuf di Arafah

Setelah bermalam di Mina, pada tanggal 10 Agustus 2019 pagi kami berangkat untuk melakukan wukuf di Arafah. Karena drama maktab, kami harus membawa seluruh tas, sleeping bag dan airbed kembali kemanapun kami pergi hari itu.

Pergi mengendarai bus, kami tiba di tenda Arafah dimana drama kedua terjadi ha.ha.ha. Tenda kami selama di Arafah tidak dilengkapi dengan AC dan tidak terurus. Suhu di luar sudah mencapai 44 derajat dan luar biasa humid karena mendung, sementara suhu di dalam tenda jauh lebih panas. Begitu banyak Ibu hamil, anak kecil..dan saat itu saya bertemu awal mula dengan virus flu yang ditandai dengan sakit tenggorokan.

Tahukah kalian bahwa sebaik-baiknya doa adalah doa hari Arafah? Do'a di hari Arafah dan di padang Arafah adalah doa yang dijabah oleh Allah. Karena itu, despite keadaan yang sangat miris di tenda, kami memilih untuk tidak memikirkannya dan fokus pada ibadah.

Selama wukuf di Arafah, jamaah haji disarankan keluar dari tenda dan terus mengingat Allah melalui berdoa, shalawat maupun istighfar dari ba'da Dzuhur sampai ba'da Asar. Meskipun tidak disunnahkan, namun kami penasaran dan ingin pergi ke Jabbal Rahma untuk bertemu dengan jamaah haji dari belahan dunia lainnya. Tentu saja, Jabbal Rahma sangat penuh dengan calon Haji dan Hajjah mabrur

Jabbal Rahma

Saya tidak bisa menuliskan melalui kata-kata betapa magical nya hari itu. Tepat ba'da Ashar, tiba-tiba petir menyambar dan hujan sangat deras jatuh. Saya sedang berada di luar tenda saat hujan jatuh dan sedang berdo'a untuk diturunkan hujan karena sangat panas. Tidak ada yang tahu berapa juta orang sedang berdo'a minta hujan hari itu tapi Allah benar-benar menjabah do'a kami seketika.

Hal yang paling luar biasa lagi adalah bagaimana saat itu saya benar-benar dilepaskan dari diri saya sebelumnya. Saya tidak memikirkan pekerjaan sama sekali, saya tidak memikirkan mimpi-mimpi yang belum terwujud, saya hanya berfikir bagaimana saya ingin mendapat surga-Nya kelak. Saya ingin menjadi manusia yang lebih baik, jauh lebih baik.Manusia yang jauh dari amarah dan hal-hal buruk lainnya.

Tenda di Arafah pasca Hujan

Hujan hanya berlangsung sekitar 1 jam namun berhasil mendinginkan tanah Arafah sekitar 10 derajat!

Mabit di Muzdalifah

Mabid di Muzdalifah

Setelah menyelesaikan wukuf di Arafah pada ba'da Maghrib, Ibadah selanjutnya adalah Mabit di Muzdalifah. Bagi jemaah haji Plus, kebanyakan tinggal di Muzdalifah selama 2-3 jam kemudian langsung kembali ke Mina untuk istirahat. Sementara jemaah haji reguler, bersama dengan kami bermalam di Muzdalifah atau sering disebut tidur di hotel jutaan bintang.

Selama perjalanan dari Arafah ke Muzdalifah yang hanya ditempuh selama 20 menit dengan bus, kami bertemu dengan banyak jamaah haji yang berjalan kaki dari Arafah ke Muzdalifah, melewati highway dan bukit. Tidak terlihat lesu atau kesedihan di wajah mereka, mereka berjalan bersama-sama dengan semangat dan bahagia. Dugaan saya, mereka naik haji secara mandiri / tanpa travel agent.

Pada musim haji, jalanan di sekitar Mina, Muzdalifah ataupun Arafah ditutup secara eksklusif dari kendaraan yang tidak berkepentingan. Bus yang melewati wilayah tersebut adalah bus-bus khusus yang ditunjuk oleh Ministry of Hajj untuk mengangkut jemaah haji. Bahkan mobil petugas pemerintah tidak bisa masuk tanpa mengantongi izin dari Ministry of Hajj.

Jadi, sangat understandable bagi jamaah mandiri untuk berjalan dari 1 titik ke titik lainnya karena tidak ada kendaraan pribadi/ umum yang bisa dengan bebas mengangkut penumpang.

Mabit di Muzdalifah berarti kami bermalam di tanah lapang di dekat bukit-bukit batu yang ada di Muzdalifah. Jika tidak mendung, mungkin kami bisa melihat jutaan bintang seperti yang dibilang orang-orang sebelumnya.

Namun meskipun mendung, pemandangan di depan kami luar biasa indah yaitu kota Mekkah dengan jutaan cahayanya, termasuk Clock Tower di dekat Ka'bah.

Us!

Saat Mabit di Muzdalifah, kami memompa Airbed kami dan mencoba untuk tidur. Namun semakin malam, semakin banyak kloter jamaah lain yang tiba dan sibuk mencari space untuk bermalam. Kebetulan di sebelah kami adalah jamaah haji reguler dari Padang. Kami mengobrol sejenak dengan pasangan suami istri yang mendaftar di tahun 2011 tersebut kemudian mencari batu sebanyak-banyaknya (padahal yang dibutuhkan sekitar 70 batu saja).

Sampai sekitar pukul 3 pagi, saya terbangun dan melihat ada seorang Ibu tua yang bahkan tidak bisa berbahasa indonesia sedang mencari jalan kembali ke rekan-rekannya. Rupanya sang Ibu sibuk mencari batu sampai terpisah jauh dari rombongannya. Mencoba mengarahkan sedikit, namun sang Ibu tampak sama sekali tidak bisa berbahasa indonesia dan tidak mau diantarkan :(

Di Muzdalifah, dalam keheningan jamaah yang sedang terlelap, saya bisa melihat ribuan jamaah dari segala usia, tua-muda, sehat dan sakit sedang berusaha mencari ridla Allah.

Lagi-lagi di sana saya diingatkan untuk kembali menjadi hakikat manusia, tanpa atribut maupun jabatan. Semua sama di mata Allah, tidur di bawah langit Allah tanpa kemewahan kasur, selimut, atap dan tembok.

Bahkan, di hari pertama kami memulai niat Haji, saat kami berangkat menuju bandara Incheon, kami mulai meninggalkan atribut kami. Tidak peduli jabatan, kekayaan, aksesori yang menempel dalam tubuh kami, kami adalah manusia yang berada dalam derajat dan posisi yang sama.

Kami menyelesaikan mabit sekitar pukul 06.00 pagi dan packing kembali untuk bersiap-siap kembali ke tenda Mina untuk memulai Ibadah Utama Haji di tanggal 10 Dzulhijjah!

Saya akan melanjutkan cerita tentang Ibadah Utama Haji saya secara terpisah karena disini dimulai tantangan haji sesungguhnya yang akan cukup panjang diceritakan dalam 1 posting, termasuk betapa ajaibnya harapan yang terkabul di tanah haram ini!

Jadi, to be Continued di Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part II!

Selanjutnya : Catatan Perjalanan Haji Part II : Ujian Kesabaran

Summer di Hokkaido (Part II) : Sapporo, city of Feast

2019-07-04T21:49:00.001-07:00

Otaru Canal

Beberapa hari yang lalu, saya mengobrol dengan salah satu teman yang hobi travelling tentang tipe travelling kami. Well, susah untuk mengidentifikasikan jenis traveller seperti apakah saya. Saya suka fotografi, kuliner dan most of all adalah melihat sosiografi dari tempat yang saya kunjungi.

Di setiap ujung kota atau desa, bahkan hanya dengan 1 buah bangunan, pasti ada sebuah kisah yang ingin diceritakan. Alasan itu juga yang membuat saya sangat suka Eurotrip atau Japan Trip..karena hampir setiap sudut kota menyimpan cerita yang sangat unik, dan bahkan bagi seseorang tidak perlu untuk membuka buku sejarah untuk tahu.

Sapporo dan Otaru adalah salah dua yang design kota-nya tidak perlu membuka wikipedia dan buku sejarah untuk mengerti karakter dari Kota itu.

Tiba di Sapporo pada hari minggu siang setelah 2 jam perjalanan naik bus dari Asahikawa, kami langsung check in di hotel Ibis style Sapporo. Hotel Ibis style Sapporo ini sangat saya rekomendasikan bagi mereka yang lelah dengan luas kamar hotel di Jepang yang super sempit. Ibis Style menawarkan ruangan yang lega, bahkan lebih besar daripada Novotel biasanya (sama-sama jaringan Accor).

Kota Sapporo di bulan Juni relatif sejuk di siang hari dengan suhu sekitar 18-23 derajat celcius meskipun matahari cukup terik. Itinerary kami di Sapporo pun cukup simple, yaitu makan, makan dan makan.

Tanokikoji Shopping Street

Tujuan pertama kami adalah makan beef barbeque di Tokuju Shinratei yang berada di kawasan Tanokikuji Shopping Street. Takuju ini berada di lantai 2 Sanjo Mimatsu Building, sehingga restoran tidak terlihat mencolok di halaman utama. Namun begitu masuk, terdapat banyak orang yang sedang duduk sebagai waiting list. Saya datang sekitar pukul 1, setelah jam makan siang dan menunggu sekitar setengah jam untuk dipersilahkan duduk.

Lunch Set menu

Makanan di Takuju sangat lezat, meskipun tidak selezat Hida atau Kobe Beef, namun dagingnya marble, empuk dan yang paling utama adalah bumbu yang meresap masuk ke dalam daging.

Kenyang, saya berjalan menyusuri Tanokikuji Shopping Street yang didominasi oleh makanan, jajanan dan toko oleh-oleh. Kawasan ini mengingatkan saya dengan Shinsaibashi-suji Shopping Arcade di Osaka.

Sapporo Tower

Saya berjalan ke arah Sapporo station karena ingin membeli buku di Kinokuniya, namun sepanjang jalan yang berbentuk grid tersebut, saya banyak menemukan photospot yang banyak dikunjungi turis seperti, Sapporo Clock Tower, Sapporo tower-yang merupakan saudara kembar Tokyo tower, Odori Park- taman memanjang yang digunakan sebagai Snow Festival.

Selain itu, banyak toko-toko jaringan seperti Daiso, dan yang menarik adalah toko Animate- pusat merchandise anime-anime terkenal yang mencapai 4 lantai tersendiri.

Sapporo Clock Tower

Sapporo Clock Tower upclose

Di Sapporo Clock Tower, saya mendapat bonus bertemu dengan Om Mario di Mario Kart. Beliau sengaja parkir di dekat Sapporo Clock Tower agar banyak pengunjung tergoda berfoto dengan dia. Menggunakan, bukan streetle pastinya, ia memakai kostum lengkap dan sound sistem theme Mario Kart yang menggelegar. So Fun!

Mario!

Sepanjang hari minggu ini saya jalan-jalan mengelilingi Sapporo untuk berbelanja, ngemil dan sesekali mengambil foto tempat-tempat yang insta-worthy. Pada saat matahari hampir tenggelam, saya memutuskan naik street car untuk pergi ke Mt. Okura Observatory.

Transportasi di Sapporo terbagi menjadi 2 yaitu subway dan Street car atau trem. Kedua jalur tersebut tidak tercover oleh JR Pass meskipun sapporo station terkoneksi antara JR station dan subway statiton. Karena kota ini berbentuk Grid, coverage subway maupun street car tidak menyeluruh seperti di Seoul atau Tokyo. Bus mengcover seluruh jalanan di Sapporo, namun saya tidak terlalu familiar dengan bus karena belum english-friendly meskipun sebenarnya gampang.

Untuk naik bus, cukup ambil tiket di mesin, kemudian sebelum halte yang kita tuju, kita perlu memencet tombol stop. Sopir akan berhenti di halte kemudian memeriksa tiket kita yang biasanya berupa angka halte asal kemudian kita tinggal tap IC Card (suica) untuk membayar. Di beberapa kota seperti Furano, Asahikawa, IC Card tidak diterima untuk pembayaran Bus, jadi saya terpaksa menggunakan cash-yang bagi saya sangat tidak nyaman.

Kembali ke Mt, Okura, di dalam street car ada voucher kupon diskon yang bisa kita gunakan. Sesampai di halte, kita akan membaca papan petunjuk menuju shuttle bus gratis menuju Mt, Okura obeservatory. Sayangnya, saat saya akan membayar naik cable car, petugas menginfokan bahwa pemandangan Sapporo akan tertutup kabut hampir sepenuhnya.

Kami menunggu beberapa saat sampai akhirnya menyerah. Udara terlalu dingin dan langit yang mendung membuat pemandangan buram mungkin sampai besok pagi. Kami kembali ke halte street car dan memutuskan untuk mencoba di JR Tower Observatory T38.

Menurut review, pemandangan night view terbaik di Sapporo, bahkan di seluruh Jepang no.3 adalah dari Mt. Okura baru kemudian JR Tower.

Kembali ke JR Tower berarti kami harus kembali ke Sapporo Station, disinilah koneksi antara street car dan subway teruji. Akhirnya, turun dari street car kami berjalan melalui underground sambil berjalan-jalan menikmati keramaian minggu malam di Sapporo.

Jika diperhatikan, sebagian besar orang di Sapporo memilih berjalan di underground daripada di jalanan, simply karena kebiasaan. Sapporo terletak di Hokkaido, which means northenmost part of Japan yang memiliki winter lebih panjang, lebih dingin dan lebih snowy. Sebagian besar aktivitas masyarakat Sapporo bergerak di underground, oleh karena itu pemerintah membangun underground yang super panjang, mewah, lengkap dan aman. Di sepanjang underground terdapat banyak shopping street yang mungkin membutuhkan waktu berhari-hari untuk mengelilinginya.

Sesampai di JR Tower yang kebetulan cukup sepi, saya bisa melihat pemandangan kota Sapporo secara 360 derajat. No explanation needed, it is just stunning. Di observatory juga terdapat cafe yang menyediakan snack. Saya mencoba membeli waffle ice cream yang sangat lezat. You never can go wrong with food in Sapporo!

Mount Okura dan Ferris Wheel dari JR Tower

Motto-Motto Otaru!

Otaru Canal dengan Bangunan Pergudangan yang telah Alih Fungsi

Sekitar 1 jam dari Sapporo, terdapat kota kanal yang terkenal terutama saat winter yaitu Otaru.

Banyak tour package yang dijual dari Sapporo ke Otaru dengan harga sekitar 500k rupiah, namun kami memutuskan naik kereta dengan cost tidak sampai 100k rupiah.

Disebut kota kanal, jangan lantas membayangkan Otaru akan seperti Amsterdam atau Venice, karena kota canal di Otaru peruntukannya berbeda.

Amsterdam dan Venice bisa dibilang kota yang 'mengapung' di atas laut, sementara Otaru membuka canal untuk memudahkan perpindahan barang dari laut langsung ke gudang-gudang pabrik yang ada di sepanjang kota Otaru.

Oleh karena itu, sebagian besar bangunan yang dibelah oleh canal adalah berupa bangunan pabrik, gudang-gudang yang dibuat secara efisien untuk memudahkan perpindahan barang. Bukan bangunan rumah tinggal seperti di Venice atau So-ho seperti di Amsterdam.

Air di canal pun terlihat seperti biru kehijauan bukan karena kotor namun karena kedalaman Canal tersebut agar bisa dilewati oleh kapal-kapal besar yang membongkar muatan.

Gudang yang telah beralih fungsi

Hingga saat ini, beberapa pabrik masih beroperasi di Otaru namun sebagian besar gudang telah beralih fungsi menjadi restoran atau pertokoan seiring dengan tingginya turis yang mendatangi wilayah ini. Salah satu pabrik yang terkenal adalah pabrik soyu Kinkoman yang juga memiliki gudang di Otaru.

Tour Boat

Untuk menikmati Canal, bisa mengikuti tour boat sekitar 45 menit bersama dengan tour guide yang akan menjelaskan sejarah Otaru Canal dan tiap bangunan bersejarah di sepanjang Canal. Beberapa bangunan juga telah digunakan untuk setting shooting film Jepang.

Jalanan sepanjang Pusat Kerajinan Tangan

Tidak hanya canal, Otaru juga sangat terkenal karena kerajinan tangannya yaitu glass / kristal dan music box. Bergeser dari arah Canal, kami berjalan menuju ke pusat kerajinan tangan yang sangat panjang dari Kitaichi Glass Shop sampai dengan Venetian Museum Otaru Music Box Museum & Kitakaro.

Favorit saya adalah masuk ke tiap toko music box untuk mengeksplor music box yang menarik di sana. Toko Music Box terbesar adalah Otaru Music Box museum- yang merupakan toko di lantai 1 dan museum kecil di lantai 2.

I have a thing with Music Box sejak saya mendengarkan orgel di Rudesheim. Meskipun koleksi orgel yang ditampilkan tidak sebanyak di Jerman, namun begitu banyak toko-toko kecil di Otaru menjual versi mini orgel yang disajikan dalam music box. Music box ini pun dipasang dalam berbagai bentuk dari pigura, boneka, miniature, piano dan masih banyak lagi.

Kalau kaki saya sudah tidak pegal, saya akan dengan senang hati berhenti di tiap toko just to satisfy my curiosity.

Otaru Music Box museum-

Sepanjang perjalanan, hal yang haram untuk tidak dilakukan adalah mencoba segala macam jajanan yang ada. Dari melon, seafood, oden dan masih banyak lagi.

Otaru juga sangat terkenal dengan fresh seafood, apalagi untuk crab, abalone, kerang dan lain-lain! Karena saya bukan penggemar makanan dari cangkang tersebut (saya lebih suka mutiara daripada makan clamp or shell or abalone), saya memilih makan sushi di Kantaro Otaru yang juga sangat fresh, enak dan murah!!

Pathway di Otaru

Jika diperhatikan, bangunan-bangunan lama yang ada di Otaru lebih ke arah western style daripada Japan architecture. Berjalan-jalan di sana, membuat saya teringat pada jalanan kecil yang ada di kota-kota eropa.

Struktur bangunan banyak yang menggunakan bebatuan atau yang disebut dengan stone masonry building dengan gaya khas eropa. Jelas terlihat bahwa sebagian besar bangunan dibangun pada akhir abad 18, awal abad 19 atau jikapun baru dibangun mengikuti gaya arsitektur sekitarnya. Namun, meskipun bangunan di luar terlihat kebarat-baratan, beberapa bangunan masih menggunakan Nightingale Floor. Bagi yang familiar dengan film atau buku tentang ninja, nightingale floor ini berasal asli dari Jepang yaitu berupa lantai kayu yang berderit kapanpun menerima beban di atasnya. Dulunya, nightingale dibuat untuk mengantisipasi kedatangan ninja. Legend has it!

Anyway, jika kalian pergi ke Otaru kemudian sedih karena tidak sesuai ekspektasi, don't be! menurut saya strolling around Otaru sangat menarik karena sarat akan cerita!

Kembalinya dari Otaru, saya kembali ke Hotel dan tidur. Keesokannya, saya punya setengah hari sebelum kembali ke Seoul melalui Bandara Chitose. Saya manfaatkan waktu ini untuk memuaskan jiwa kuliner saya...karena seperti saya bilang, you can never go wrong with food at Hokkaido!

Pancake di SUPER FANCY, super Enak!!!!!

Halal Ramen!! dari Tomat

Soft ice cream terlezat di New Chitose Airport

Lastly, our Wefie

Sejauh ini, memang jalan-jalan di Jepang tidak pernah mengecewakan saya! Bahkan di pulau paling ujung utara, kami menemukan surga makanan dan keindahan kota! Memang, Hokkaido is all about winter, tapi Hokkaido in Summer is best bargain!!!

See you at my next post!

Sebelumnya:

Summer di Hokkaido Part I

Summer di Hokkaido (Part I) : Dari Es Krim Autan sampai Kota Zombie Apocalypse

2019-06-29T01:40:00.002-07:00

Sapporo at Night

Jalan-jalan ke Hokkaido adalah salah satu bucket list saya, bukan karena intensitas saljunya yang tebal atau karena kepingin foya-foya sambil main ski (iya juga sih!) tapi lebih karena kuliner!

What? Kuliner?

Yes, pulau paling ujung di Jepang ini sangat terkenal dengan kelezatan makanannya, dari dairy products (ice cream, cheese, milk), beef, ramen dan produk-produk pertanian seperti lavender (yeah, you read it right, lavender!), melon, belum lagi best seafood in country seperti kani (kepiting), sushi dan masih banyaakkkk lagi.

Folks told us that karena tanahnya yang subur, makanan di kepulauan Hokkaido ini sangat abundance dan lezat. Di pulau ini juga terdapat banyak hutan, perkebunan dan tentu saja pegunungan.

Jadi, ketika ada long weekend di Korea, saya memutuskan untuk membeli tiket yang lumayan murah (sekitar IDR 2.7 juta pp). Iya murah karena jika dibandingkan harga tiket pas winter bisa 3x lipat lebih mahal. Summer di Hokkaido juga ga terlalu panas atau adem. Suhu biasanya mencapai paling panas 30 derajat dengan rata-rata sekitar 14- 26 derajat celcius.

Namun, se-spontan apapun, sebelum membeli tiket, saya melakukan riset kecil-kecilan mengenai tujuan wisata dan cheap sheet untuk menikmati Hokkaido tanpa terampok habis-habisan.

Awalnya, kami budget-kan perjalanan ini akan habis sekitar IDR 18 -20 juta untuk 2 orang termasuk tiket dan penginapan. Ternyata, disana kami tidak dapat menahan nafsu untuk terus ngunyah jadi perjalanan kami overbudget (sedikit)

To sum up, perjalanan 5 hari ke Hokkaido meliputi :
Day 1 Incheon- Asahikawa Airport- Furano
Day 2 Takinoue Pink Moss Park - Asahikawa City Tour
Day 3 Sapporo
Day 4 Otaru Bay
Day 5 Sapporo and back to Incheon

Detail itinerary dan budget bisa di downloan di sini

1. Day 1- Incheon-Asahikawa- Biei- Furano

Poppy!!!

Perjalanan ke Asahikawa sebenearnya adalah sebuah ketidaksengajaan membaca blog seseorang yang ingin pergi ke daerah Furano dengan cara menghemat waktu dan uang. Kebetulan saya cek perjalanan ke Asahikawa dari Incheon adalah direct flight Korean Air.

Asahikawa adalah kota terbesar kedua setelah Sapporo di pulau Hokkaido.Asahikawa terkenal karena origin of ramen dan abundance of green areas.

Bandara Asahikawa-pun relatif lebih sepi dan baru daripada New Chitose Airport. Oh ya, karena saking sepinya, petugas bea cukai sampai dengan kreatifnya mengecek satu per satu bagasi cabin tiap penumpang. Mengecek dalam artian membuka koper dan memeriksa tiap bungkusan dalam koper. Akibatnya, antrian sebelum imigrasi menjadi lumayan panjang.

Lepas dari bandara, saya membeli tiket bus langsung ke Biei melalui vending machine. Bandara Asahikawa terletak diantara Furano dan kota Asahikawa, sehingga lebih efisien jika saya langsung ke Furano. Sedangkan Biei terletak sekitar 30 menit dari Furano. Perjalanan ke Biei ditempuh sekitar 50 menit dengan tiket cukup murah sekitar 700 Yen.

Awalnya, saya ingin menyewa mobil selama di Furano-Asahikawa, namun ternyata SIM Internasional tidak diterima di Jepang karena menganut konvensi yang berbeda. Sayapun tidak sempat untuk menukar ke SIM Korea sebelum keberangkatan (karena SIM Korea diterima di Jepang). Sayapun sengaja tidak membeli JR Pass karena banyak wilayah di Furano, Asahikawa yang tidak tercover adalah JR Hokkaido.

Membawa koper, saya sampai di bus stop Biei. Bus stop ini terletak sekitar 20 meter dari stasiun Biei. Stasiun Biei adalah stasiun yang sangat kecil (bahkan lebih kecil daripada Kepanjen) dan tidak ada petugas penjaga. Namun terdapat coin locker untuk menyimpan bagasi saya.

German Lupin di Farm Tomita

Keluar dari stasiun, saya langsung naik taxi ke Farm Tomita. Tenang, taxi di Jepang emang mahal tapi untuk ke farm tomita yang berjarak sekitar 2 km,argometer 'cuma' menunjukkan tarif 700 yen.

Farm Tomita ini sangat terkenal saat musim panas karena kecantikan tamannya terutama lavender yang mulai berkembang di akhir juni sampai pertengahan agustus. Ketika kesana, saya aware masih belum peak musimnya, namun simply karena saya pengen ngerasain es krim lavender dan melihat the famous Poppy.

Bagi yang belum familiar dengan bunga Poppy tapi punya banyak teman bernama Poppy, Poppy adalah bunga warna-warni cerah dari orange, kuning, merah. Salah satu spesies Poppy terkenal karena merupakan salah satu bahan candu di dalam pembuatan morfin. Saya sih tidak tahu apakah Poppy di taman ini bisa dibuat Morfin atau tidak. Sumpah , menyentuhpun saya tidak berani! (takut harus mandi besar 7x..halah apa sih?)

Lavender and Ice cream lavender

Di Farm Tomita yang super luas ini terdapat berbagai macam bunga yang mekar secara bergantian sepanjang tahun. Memang sih, katanya paling indah di Lavender season, namun saya tidak menyesal sama sekali datang ke Farm Tomita karena masih banyak bunga yang bisa dilihat.

Tomita Farm

Sembari disana, saya menyempatkan Yubari Melon yang super terkenal seperti Durian Musangking. Saya tidak terlalu suka sama Melon, tapi karena penasaran, saya coba potongan kecil seharga 500 Yen (di Indo bisa dapet 2 glundung melon) dan ternyata.........

supeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrr enakkkk!!!

Tapi karena harganya yang sangat mahal (1 glundung sekitar 1.7 juta rupiah), saya dan suami menahan diri untuk tidak kalap.

Nah, tantangan selanjutnya adalah makan ice cream lavender. Akankah rasanya seperti Autan? Well, turns out it was good! Delicious tapi ga bikin nagih.

Yubari Melon dan Ice Cream Lavender (yang sudah termakan)

Setelah keliling, selanjutnya saya kembali ke Biei Station untuk mengejar kereta ke Furano. Kereta Biei-Furano-Asahikawa ini frekuensinya cukup jarang, sehingga kami tidak ingin ketinggalan kereta.

Dari Farm Tomita ke Stasiun kami berjalan kaki sambil menikmati kawasan pemukiman di sana. Kami juga menemukan stand pizza yang menang di festival pizza tahun 2018. It was super delicious and expensive! ha ha ha.

Berjalan di area pemukiman yang luar biasa sepi, saya sedikit teringat dengan dorama favorit saya, Erased yang kebetulan memiliki setting di pulau yang sama. Rumah-rumah mungil berjajar dan seperti ditinggalkan oleh penghuninya. Kesepian sepanjang jalan ini sangat luar biasa sehingga saya bertanya-tanya bagaimana suasana kota ini ketika musim dingin...when everything we see is just white and white.

an Empty Street..an Empty House...a Hole Inside my Heart...

Sesampainya di stasiun Biei, saya agak bingung gimana caranya beli tiket kereta. Ternyata, ketika naik kereta, kita harus mengambil tiket yang tertulis stasiun asal, kemudian di stasiun tujuan, kita harus menyerahkan ke petugas dan membayar tiket secara cash.

Kereta dari Biei ke Furano berupa kereta lambat mirip trem yang hanya ada 2 gerbong. Di dalam kereta, ternyata cukup ramai dengan anak sekolah yang baru pulang dari latihan softball. Tidak ditemukan banyak turis di dalam kereta, mungkin karena belum musim lavender.

Trotoar sekaligus Jalur Sepeda kami

Sesampainya di Furano station, kami menyewa sepeda untuk mengitari kota Furano. Di tempat persewaan sepeda juga disediakan penyimpanan bagasi gratis. Awalnya, saya mau memanfaatkan kemalasan saya dengan minta dibonceng suami, tapi ternyata di Jepang tidak diijinkan untuk berboncengan kecuali anak kecil. Duh,padahal saya mau ala-ala film drakor!

Pemandangan Sepanjang Perjalanan sepeda

Furano sendiri terkenal dengan Japanese curry-nya!. Kami bersepeda mengelilingi Furano selama 2 jam, dari kota, Marche sampai tertipu oleh brosur yang menyarankan kami untuk pergi ke Furano Cheese Factory dengan berjalan kaki dari stasiun.

Padahal, dengan naik sepeda saja kami kelelahan karena cukup jauh (sekitar 4km) dengan jalan naik turun, melintasi sungai, highway dan mendaki ke atas bukit. Sebuah penipuan terbesar di brosur!

Despite that, Furano adalah kota atau desa yang sangat indah dengan dereta pegunungan, sawah, sungai dan bunga-bunga yang bermekaran sepanjang jalan. Bahkan dibeberapa jalan sangat wangi karena musim mekarnya bunga yang saya tidak tahu namanya he..he..he..

Sungai-sungai mengalir dengan jernih dan bunyi gemericik air adalah detok bagi warga metropolis untuk kembali pada inner peace. Di sempadan sungai yang sangat lebar dan tumbuh semak-semak pendek, anak-anak sekolah berlarian bahkan ada beberapa yang terlihat berbaring menikmati kesunyian suasana damai itu. Well, kembali lagi saya teringat begitu banyak adegan manga dan dorama hanya karena melihat sebuah sungai.

Beef Curry

Sebelum naik kereta ke Asahikawa, kami memutuskan makan best curry in town, Yuiga Doxon yang aromanya tercium sekitar 10 meter dari jarak restoran. Saya sendiri bukan penggemar curry kecuali Coco Ichibanya (curry netral karena ga terlalu strong). Curry di Furano ini pun enak sebenernya, but just not my cup of tea.

Saya menginap di JR Asahikawa Inn selama 2 hari sebagai base area untuk mengelilingi daerah Asahikawa dan radiusnya. Hotel bintang 3 (atau 4?) ini sangat recommended karena lokasi yang sangat strategis, kamarnya cukup luas dan harganya yang reasonable.

Perpustakaan di JR Inn Asahikawa

Day 2 Shibazakura Takinoue Park - Asahikawa

Shibazakura adalah bunga pink moss yang biasanya berkembang diantara spring dan summer. Menurut iklan, Shibazakura Takinoue Park Festival masih berlangsung sampai tanggal 07 Juni 2019 dan saya pergi pada tanggal 06 Juni 2019.

Dari awal, petugas hotel mengingatkan saya bahwa mungkin season shibazakura telah berakhir, namun berbekal pada brosur, lagi-lagi saya ketipu.

Naik bus dari Asahikawa, saya menuju ke kota Takinoue dengan perjalanan sekitar 2 jam. Feeling ga enak kedua adalah ketika melihat bus ke Takinuou yang cuma diisi sekitar 5 orang termasuk saya dan suami.

Jalan menuju ke Takinoue-pun sangat sepi dan luar biasa indah. Membelah gunung -gunung, dengan kanan-kiri dikepung hutan, rasanya hanya ada bus kami satu-satunya yang berada di jalan.

Sesampai di halte Takinoue pun angin berhembus sangat kencang. Halte hanya ditandai sebuah papan petunjuk yang mengelupas disana-sini. Tidak ada manusia yang terlihat, hanya bangunan-bangunan rumah tua yang tidak nampak tanda-tanda kehidupan di dalamnya.

Halte Takinoue Park

Di halte itu, hanya ada 3 orang. Saya, suami dan seorang wanita berbahasa Jepang. Ia bertanya apakah saya ingin pergi melihat Shibazakura? Saya mengangguk, meskipun saya tidak yakin apakah itu yang ia tanyakan (dasar oon, emang ga bisa bahasa Jepang tapi sotoy).

Dari halte ke taman pun tidak dekat. Kami berjalan, mengikuti wanita kecil yang berjalan sangat cepat di depan kami itu.

Angin masih terus bertiup kencang bahkan jaket wind breaker yang saya kenakan tak mampu menahan dingin. Saya cek suhu udara mendadak turun sekitar 13 derajat celcius, padahal siang bolong. Kanan-kiri saya adalah rumah-rumah yang sudah ditinggalkan penghuninya. Seolah hawa kehidupan adalah hal terakhir yang pernah berada di sana.

Abandoned House

Beberapa penginapan dan hotel sudah diambang roboh, tanaman liar mulai menutupi keindahan bangunan yang mungkin pernah berjaya itu.

Tanaman-tanaman liar

Hotel yang sudah Tak terurus

Sekitar 1.3km kami berjalan, dan ternyata.....

Tidak terlihat satupun warna pink di bukit yang sangat luas itu. Hanya hamparan hijau......

Wanita di depan kami, bertanya pada sejumlah petani yang nampak sibuk di area taman. Musim Shibazakura telah berlalu. Di akhir Mei, tiba-tiba terdapat hawa panas yang sangat tidak wajar dan menyapu seluruh Shibazakura itu, meninggalkan hanya dedauanan mungil di atas tanah.

Tak ingin kami kecewa, petani tersebut meminta kami untuk mengunjungi sebuah taman yang tak jauh disana, Herb garden. Tak jauh adalah another 1.4 km.Setelah berdiskusi dengan wanita itu, kami memutuskan untuk pergi kesana daripada perjalanan kami sia-sia.

Kami berjalan bertiga, masih wanita itu memimpin jalan.

Ia tak banyak bicara, yang terdengar hanyalah bunyi sol sepatu kayu yang beradu dengan lantai trotoar. Kami berjalan menyusuri pinggir gunung dimana terdapat pagar tinggi menutup gunung tersebut dan banyak tulisan danger disana. Rupanya, sering rusa tiba-tiba meloncat dari arah gunung ke jalanan. Pagar itu adalah untuk menjaga mereka tetap berada di habitatnya.

Perjalanan ke Herb Park

Diantara kediaman kami dan lolongan angin, tiba-tiba terdengar suara sirine yang memecah kesunyian kota. Saya hampir tiarap sambil melihat ke arah langit. Mungkin ada serangan udara, atau sebuah tsunami menerjang. Ternyata....adalah sirine penanda jam 12 siang! Eff..! sirine yang super kencang untuk penanda jam 12 siang?????????????????????????????

Setelah berjalan sangat jauh, sambil sedikit berharap ada 1, 2 mobil yang lewat menumpangi kami, akhirnya kami sampai di Herb Garden yang pemandangannya tak jauh berbeda dengan taman sebelumnya.

Lelah, kami membuka bekal dan mulai mengobrol dengan wanita itu. Kami mengambil foto bertiga sebagai bukti kalau ia benar-benar diantara kami 😁😁

Three of us

Selanjutnya, kami mengobrol dan memutuskan kembali ke halte menunggu bus untuk kembali ke Asahikawa. Wanita itu mengajak kami untuk makan sushi setibanya di Asahikawa.

Perjalanan selama ke Takinoue Park, meskipun kami tidak berhasil mencapai tujuan kami, kami sangat senang. Mendapat teman baru, mendapatkan pengalaman super deg-deg an dan mengetahui salah satu tempat yang menurut kami, remote area di Jepang.

Herb Garden

Takinoue adalah desa yang sangat jauh dari image Jepang yang modern, accessible dan sophisticated. Takinoue sangat alami, indah dan wild. Di sini juga kami akan mengenang, jika suatu saat ditanya tentang rekomendasi kota terbaik untuk shooting Zombie Apocalypse adalah Takinoue.Seriously!

Sunset di Asahikawa

Setibanya di Asahikawa, kami makan sushi kemudian kembali ke hotel untuk beristirahat dan sholat. Setelah matahari tenggelam, kami akhirnya jalan-jalan di Asahikawa untuk mencari ramen halal.

Pusat Kota Asahikawa, malam minggu

Kota Asahikawa sendiri tidak terlalu ramai bahkan ketika malam minggu. Tidak terlihat banyak muda-mudi. Mall Aeon sendiri cukup ramai tapi masih average (tidak seperti mall di Jakarta ketika malam minggu).

Ramen Halal di Asahikawa

Ramen halal yang kita makan pun cukup unik. Terbuat dari kuah tofu, namun cukup lezat. Ramen tersebut sepertinya dibuat untuk vegetarian friendly.

Akhirnya kami menutup malam itu dengan mixed feeling. Super excited karena kami menemukan kota seperti Takinoue dan harap-harap cemas kejutan apa yang akan menanti kami di Sapporo. Well, I think that's the perk of jalan-jalan, we can never expect it will go smoothly as our plan. The essence of travelling itself is enjoying the moment, not crossing the checklist.

Karena terlalu panjang, saya akan meneruskan perjalanan di Hokkaido di post selanjutnya!Stay tune!

Plum Blossom Festival at Maehwa Village, Gwangyang

2019-03-19T05:13:00.003-07:00

Maehwa Village

Exactly, how you describe a paradise? Personally, I imagine one of paradise would be a mountain with full of beautiful flowers blooming where the air feels nothing other than crisp and scent of natural flower. And there is a house, or cottage in the valley, surrounded with nothing except flowers. And Plum Blossoms festival at Meahwa has made my imaginary paradise come the the earth.

Going south about hundreds kilometer from Seoul, there is a city near to the East China Sea. The City is surrounded by mountains called Jiri-san.And there is a large and long river to the sea, made a narrow delta with white sand. The river is unarguably clean with blue and turquoise color.

In the late winter, just at the welcoming spring, this quiet city transform into one i called a little paradise. Peoples from all part of Korea flock to the city just to enjoy the Plum Blossom that bloom in every part of the City.

The Blue and Clean River

I came to Gwangyang by joining tour from Trazy. I paid KRW 71,000 for Bus and english speaking guide which lot cheaper than I go with KTX.

Departed from Seoul at 06.45 in the morning, I arrived at 11.30-ish due to the traffic jam. The city is full of cars and busses. I rarely see any foreign tourist come here during the weekend, only locals.The good news is no matter how many people come here, the area is super huge so there always be 'quiet' spot to take a picture.

Plum Blossom Flower

From far away, Plum Blossom is looked same with Cherry Blossom. But take a closer look, the flower is different in so many ways. Cherry Blossom has a split end at the petal meanwhile plum blossoms are rounded. Plum Blossoms colors usually off white or bold pink and red, meanwhile cherry blossom in Korea is pinkish-whitey.

And of course, Plum Blossom bloom early right the closing of winter and start of spring. In Korea, they peak around second week of March.

With original Korea's kimchi stored

a very huge place

Did I told you that Meahwa Village is very hugee??It's damn huge that can make your feet sore. I suggest you to wear comfort shoes here. There are lot of stairs and hiking is needed in some areas.

Before reach the village, we passed by local housing selling many different kind of Korean traditional foods and snacks like dried ginseng, plum pickled, chicken satay, mozarella and many mores.

One of the "Quite" spot

After reached at the top of the hill, just sit at one og the stone at the top or pavilion, and silently enjoy the beauty in front of you. Or you can just held your spouse's partner and talking about how we met at the first time and how we end up in place like this? so far away from home? Well, how we are blessed to enjoy this kind of moment!

one of beautiful pond

White Plum Blossoms

White, Pink and green

My only complain is there are many restaurants in here but not english menu. Also, one more!!From the village to parking area is f.r.e.a.k.i.n.g f.a.r! Eventough the scenery is stunning, but i don't think old people or people (like me) that rarely walk will enjoy walking 3km alone after hiking just to reach the parking lot. The organizer facilitate a small shuttle bus from parking lot to the village, but the frequencies are not many. That's why the queue is quite looooong. It's different with Autumn peak at Naejangsan, there are many of busses.

To the fact that people that didn't like hiking, may be the city can build a cable car to the top of the hill. But then, it is not too high and they may losing the feeling to get lost in the maze of flowers-canopied trees!

The Most important thing, don't ever forget to take the picture of yours, and show how you enjoy this moment!It is very recommended to visit this place if you are too early to arrive at Korea during spring season.

I'm enjoying it much

Itinerary to Spend Weekend at Beijing

2019-03-06T23:21:00.000-08:00

This is exactly like one million dollar question, should we need to go to Beijing?

Frequently I heard about scam or how dirty the toilet in Beijing and those over shine the beauty of Beijing. I was hesitant also, even if i want to go China, may be I would go to rural areas than metropolitan Beijing.

But then just exactly at 1st March, Korea has long weekend and I suddenly checked Skyscanner and found cheapest ticket available to Beijing.

Happily, I booked returns tickets slightly above USD200 via Korean Air. The next step was book a hotel, I chose Novotel Xin Qiao, just across Chongwengmen Station Exit A2. I don't usually very picky about international chain hotel, but paranoid me, prefer to go safe this time. Afterward, I applied China Visa in Seoul Square and pay KRW 55,000 for visit Visa. Four days later, my visa was ready to be collected.

Then, what would I visit in Beijing? Aside from Great Wall of course. Actually I am really looking forward to do culinary trip in Beijing. I heard there are many halal restaurants in there.

Well spoiler alert, it was short trip but definitely required a lot of energy.

Day 1

1. The Great Wall

I am not fan of booking open trip or purchase tour package, so I went to Great Wall from Beijing by bus and I am not disappointed at all. Actually, there are many packages offered in Klook or other agency and cost not too expensive around USD40. But my advice, you need to take the bus, not only super cheap (around USD 2 ) and the feeling to blend with locals are fenomenal.

There are many sections of Great Wall (may be 6 or mores). Initially, I hesitant to chose between Badaling (the closest, most preserved but crowded) and Mutianyu (beautiful and bit far away but quieter). But I woke up late, and chose the closest section, Badaling.

To go here is very easy, first I went to Jushuitan Subway and exit A, then walking around 700 meter (there are many signs here to tell you where to go) and found like end of terminal, a quite long queue people to go to Badaling. Took the bus number 877, the bus is yellow colored and tap my IC card and deducted about RMB 12 (eq. USD 2 or less)

The Great Wall

One hour and half later, I arrived at Badaling Section. The wind blows quit strong in the morning during winter. I suggest you to bring scarf or wind-resistance jacket. Just infront of the bus parking area, there are ticket counters for entrance and sliding car.

I decided to purchase sliding car ticket because it would be different experience than cable car. Walking to the bear park area, there is gate for sliding car. At first, I don't have slightest idea about sliding car. Thought that it will be roller coaster or something, turns out it is like this.

Sliding car, every one

Basically, this sliding car will help you to hike on several height of the Great Wall. About 10 minutes-ish ride, I arrived and show entrance ticket to the officer.

Badaling section is always crowded, even during non peak season. Previously, I've been warned that on March, usually micro dusts cover almost all part of Beijing and neighbourhood, but since cheap ticket is once in a lifetime, I ignore it. But turns out the dusts (read :pollution) is the why we cannot capture even one good picture of Beijing.

Great Wall, Badaling Section

Great Wall is amazing and beautiful. I was awe how can human built such a magnificent walls thru the mountain and stretched many kilometers. Not only that, the scenery is a killer! Very beautiful, the mountains corridor even on Winter (which practically only brown colored)!

Sleeping Bear at Bear Park

I walked the Badaling Section until the peak and end of section. The Wall is fully restored. We must climb several points but won't exhaust your self too much.

Hike Hike and Hike

I spent half day here and descending at 2 pm-ish. By the time I arrived at Beijing, it is already 4 o'clock.

2. Wangfujing Street

Actually, we didn't plan our first day here thoroughly. We thought, by the time we arrived at Beijing from Great Wall was already night. Therefore, in between Great Wall and Wangfujing Street, we wandered around Beijing try to get any electronics mall. But unfortunately, most physical stores of electronic stuffs are closed for business. I guess, online stores nowadays rule the world.

Then, we decided directly went to Wangfujing Street to try one of halal food. The restaurant name is Dong Lai Shun. It was delicious and slightly pricey compare to Beijing standard. I recommend you to bring your own drink here because drinks are unbelievable expensive in this restaurant.

After refill our tank (read: stomach), we went to famous Wangfunjing Street food. Once we entered, we are welcomed by satay of scorpions. Wah, so many curious tourists take pictures of scorpion, but i was not seeing anyone buying.

Scorpion, everyone

Wangfujing Street Food is like shorter street food of Myeongdong. In there, many stalls selling distinguished and original Chinese food from scorpion, the famous Peking Duck, and many other snacks like tempura, takoyaki, ice cream, etc. There are also souvenir shops, I noticed the pricing is almost indifferent with souvenir stores in Great Wall.

Gate of Wangfujing street Market

This street is stretched only 800 meters. Wangfujing Street is also famous shopping complex in Beijing. There are many branded international stores located in the line of malls in the Wangfujing Street.

Mall at Wangfujing Street

If you like badminton, then you will notice one of Chinese brand Li-ning. Not until i arrived at Beijing, I finally know that Li-ning also have many sports apparels, not limited to Badminton.

Day 2

1. Temple of Heaven

Learning from yesterday, we plan our second day ahead to get to know the best of Beijing. Our first destination is Temple of Heaven. The Temple was very famous for its beauty.

Gate of Temple of Heaven

Dome of Temple of heaven

outside the wall of Temple of Heaven

The serene park outside Temple of Heaven

I don't know why but my history curiosity was suddenly off in the Beijing. We only pass thru the park and gate but didn't buy the ticket entrance to the temple.

The Park itself is big, serene and breathable. I bet the pollution is filtered by the alleys of trees in here. Locals spent their morning doing many activities in the park. Playing bridge, badminton, taichi, and other sports with bigger shuttlecock that kicked between 4-5 people (idk the sports name).

Spending the morning here and enjoying your breakfast or coffee is like a little piece of heaven!

2. Tianemen Square and Forbidden City

After having lunch back to Wangfujing, we decided to walk from Wangfujing to Tianemen Square which approx. 1km long. Along the main road, there are many of historical or governmental buildings that built i think at the early '19.

I know, it is huge inner battle weather we really need to go to tianemen Square or not because the queue is unbelievable long.

Right before we enter the Tianemen Square areas, we should show our ID and queue for security body search. The queue is crazy, you can spend an hour or mores just to enter the area.

During the queue, I noticed that most peoples in there are local! I am amazed! because in my experience, especially in Seoul, locals prefer to avoid tourist areas and historical buffs. I mean, the queue is super loooooooong and didnot make sense at all.

Tianemen Square is adjacent to the famous Forbidden City. To enter Forbidden City, we must register our passport at the counter and pay RMB 40. In here, no queuing, thanks God!

Hall of Supreme Harmony

Overlook from the Gate

One of Collection

Forbidden City itself is huge palace complex that frequently used to emphasis Chinese Rich Heritage in the movies. This palace was built on 1400'ish and erect beautifully until now.

The Forbidden City now called as Palace Museum also have wonderful collections that shown at the palace.

I am not detail or palace lover, but i assure you this place is huge and beautiful. From the south gate to north gate can be 1 kilometer long. And it well preserved. The palace is clean, equipped with many rest rooms, and lot of seating areas in case you are tired.

3. Jingshan Park

Many people suggest if you hate to queue, then you really can skip Forbidden City and Tianemen Square and directly go to Jingshan Park.

Jingshan Park located just accros the north gate of Forbidden City. The interesting thing, Jingshan Park is one of highest point in Beijing where you can overlook the city bird view for 360 degrees. There is one pavilion at the top where you can enjoy sunset with the background of Forbidden City.

View from Jingshan Park (north side)

View from Jingshan Park (south side)

Since the weather is so bad, i skipped watching the sunset in here and decide descending and stroll around hutongs

4. Hutongs near to Shinchahaihai Station and Nanluoguxiang

The Bridge

Frozen Houhai Lake

Crossed the main gate of Jingshan Park, I patiently wait bus 124 to take me to hutongs near Shinchahaihai station. Actually, I wanted to go Nanluoguxiang initially, but during the journey, I saw a beautiful bridge over Houhai lake .

I decided to stop the bus and walking along the lake and found hutong with local bustling everywhere. Hutong is a narrow street or alley in local residential areas. Some hutong consist of restaurants, cafes or boutiques.

Typical Hutong

After wandered around, I decided to walk to Nanluoguxiang Hutong. This Hutong is famous among the tourists and locals because there many cafes, snacks shop, and others along almost 1 km long.

Nanluoguxiang hutong

many local cuisines here!

Well, you could take may be 3 hours in here to try one by one famous snacks in Beijing. We stayed until 9 pm and decide to go back to the hotel because exhausted.

So far, Beijing is okay! Everything is cheaper here compare to neighbor countries like Japan or South Korea from food, transportation and lodging. Great Wall is a must, meanwhile Forbidden City is totally a must if you are a history buff.

The most frightening thing about Beijing is toilet. Most of toilet is squatting closet, even though there are sitting closet in some modern places like Mall or Airport. What i cannot phantom is no matter how modern or luxurious the place, I can still notice poo spread out at the hidden place of the closet. In some public areas like Great Wall, the toilet smells of piss and aweful. But hey may be i am being unfortunate, i don't say all toilet would be like that.

One thing also that you should be notice is the security in Beijing is very strict. Whenever we want to enter the subway station, they will do body searching and scan your belonging. Also there are many polices everywhere especially in public areas. Some buildings have a very tall fences and guarded by polices. Not that it is frightening, just reduce the beauty of the buildings.

Apart from the toilet and people smoking and spatting everywhere, Beijing is nice city to wander especially if you love culinary.

Japan Winter Trip : Shirakawa-Go at finest!

2019-02-15T21:54:00.000-08:00

Shirakawa-Go

Mungkin jika makanan, Jepang itu seperti bakso, beberapa kalipun dikunjungi nggak akan bikin saya bosan. Membentang dari utara ke selatan dengan pesona yang berbeda-beda, belum lagi ditambahkan dengan 4 musim yang berbeda membuat Jepang destinasi wisata yang ga habis-habis.

Perjalanan ke Jepang kali ini agak 'incidental' karena kebetulan saya mau ambil cuti pulang ke Indonesia di libur New Year. Sayangnya tiket direct Seoul- Jakarta sangat pricey, akhirnya saya ambil jalan memutar ke Seoul- Tokyo - Jakarta yang surprisingly cheaper.

Karena saya pergi di bulan akhir Januari, jadi perjalanan ke Jepang kali ini menjadi winter trip jadi saya harus menyiapkan itinerary most stunning place in winter di Jepang. I know, winter is all about Hokkaido, namun untuk kali ini saya lewati dulu karena tiket direct Seoul-Hokkaido hampir mirip harganya dengan tiket KL-Paris.

So far, itinerary saya adalah berikut :

1. January 26-28,2019 : Tokyo

2. January 28-31,2019 : Takayama, Shirakawa, Shinhatoke (Jap-Alps)

3. January 31- February 01,2019 : Hakone

Total saya berada di Jepang selama 8 hari-7 malam, considered cukup singkat mengingat keindahan Jepang sendiri. Ok Let's start!

1. Tokyo (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Asakusa, Disneysea, Akibahara, Harajuku)

Selain menjadi hub perjalanan kami, tujuan utama 'ngendon' 2 hari di Tokyo adalah Disneysea dan tentunya who can deny the irresistible manga accessories?

Awalnya, saya bermaksud untuk pergi ke Ghibli Museum, namun dasar saya suka gampangin sehingga berujung pada telat booking tiket museum dan sold out selama bulan Januari. Fear not, I will come again and definitely book my way to there.

So far, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Akibahara, Harajuku tidak akan saya ceritakan secara detail karena..tempat itu masih awesome karena banyak makanan enak, Forever 21 berlantai-lantai dan selalu diskon, atau Yodobashi yang merampok kartu kredit visa saya (karena ada diskon tambahan 5%) dengan barang-barang elektronik atau jam tangan yang slightly cheaper.

Saya akan menceritakan tempat yang baru saya kunjungi yaitu:

Asakusa Temple

Asakusa Temple

The reason i went there is just me being touristy. Saya pengen foto di depan hmm.. lampion?

Well, ketika saya sampai sana, ternyata Asakusa sangat padat dan surprisingly, dengan suhu yang masiih di atas 0 derajat menjadi dingin banget karena angin yang kencang

Look the Crowd

Sepanjang jalan menuju Asakusa temple, banyak toko-toko menjual makanan, souvenir dan kafe-kafe lucu yang layak disatronin untuk menghabiskan pundi-pundi yen. Sebelum ke Asakusa Temple, saya menyempatkan lunch di Tendon Tenya yang affordable dan lezat banget (nasi tempura dkk).

Tokyo Character Street

Karena gagal pergi ke Ghibli Museum, saya sengaja hunting official store Ghibli di luar Ghibli Museum, salah satunya terletak di sini.

Tokyo Character Street terletak di underground Tokyo Stasiun Yaesu Exit. Di sana ada lebih dari 1 lusin toko-toko merchandise karakter-karakter anime yang berkumpul di underground street. Dari pokemon store, Jump Shop (menjual merch. Slam dunk, One Piece--manga-manga cowo), Doraemon, Shinchan, Ghibli, gudetama hingga Peanuts merch (yang seharusnya bukan manga).

Well, it is super easy to get lost in these kawaii stores and purchase lot of stuffs! Asyiknya lagi, underground street ini super luas dan panjang, di sisi lain ada Ramen Street yang juga memanggil untuk mendatanginya.

Me and Ponyo

Disneysea

Thought that, Disneysea di musim dingin akan lumayan sepi tapi tentu tidak! tidak peduli suhu hampir 0 derajat, antrian di tiap wahanapun sangat panjang. Saya sengaja masuk setelah jam 3 sore karena ingin melihat festival kembang api..dan tentu saja karena diskon yang cukup besar (sekitar 2500 yen per orang).

Saat masuk ke dalam, saya langsung tahu bahwa tema-tema yang dibangun di Tokyo Disneysea ini sangat bagus, bahkan terbaik yang pernah saya kunjungi dari themepark.

Di awal, pengunjung dibawa ke suasana Venezia, Italia-not that so-so like Venetian Macau, kemudian dari kejauhan terdapat volcano dengan suara-suara teriakan mengundang. Di sisi lain, terdapat bangunan tinggi : Tower of Terror, rumour has it, it is one of the most expensve Disney Park-theme.

Bringback Italia's memories in mind

a fortress prop

Tower of Terror

Yang saya rasakan agak berbeda dari Disneysea dibandingkan dengan disneyland disini adalah tema yang dibawa tidak sepenuhnya terhubung dengan disney movie. Yes, ada little mermaid land atau Toy Story theme atau Aladdin theme, namun saya lebih merasa kalau Disneysea ini merupakan replika dunia nyata, lebih ke natural.

Toy Story Mania-one of the longest Queue in Disney sea

Parade Kembang Api pukul 20.30

Di Disneysea juga terdapat tokoh beruang pelaut yang tidak ada di Disney-theme park lainnya di dunia ini, yaitu Duffy. Alhasil, souvenir shop Duffy paling besar dan paling ramai dikunjungi.

Lesson learned; karena banyaknya atraksi menarik di Disneysea dan Tokyo Disneysea adalah themepark teramai nomor 5 di dunia, lebih baik datang dari pagi buta sampai dengan malam untuk merasakan sebagian besar atraksinya (kalau semuanya-sepertinya terlalu ambisius). Jika ditanya, mana yang lebih baik Universal Studio Japan atau Tokyo Disneysea, I'll say go both!

Jangan lupa, pakai jaket tebal dan sarung tangan di winter..karena anginnya yang cukup kencang!

2. Takayama bound (Shirakawa, Shinhatoke Ropeway)

Takayama Old town

Alasan saya memilih Takayama sebagai hub adalah karena letaknya tepat berada di tengah antara Shirakawa-go dan Shinhatoke Ropeway, dan lebih lagi disini ada heaven on earth, the infamous Hida Beef.

Perjalanan dari Tokyo ke Takayama ditempuh melalui kereta peluru Shinkansen dari Tokyo ke Nagoya. Sampai Nagoya, saya transit untuk naik Hida Express.

Famous Red Bridge

Caution! don't overslept when you ride Hida Express!

Meskipun Hida Express terlihat tua dan lambat, namun pemandangan di sepanjang Nagoya-Takayama is one of the best that you can get during winter. Menyusuri aliran sungai Hida dan deretan pegunungan Japan Alps, saya merasa diseret kembali ke memori perjalanan mengendarai Bernina Express Chur-St.Moritz.

Berada di Takayama seolah kita dibawa oleh time capsule ke beberapa abad sebelumnya dimana Jepang adalah negeri yang dimiliki para samurai, (I'm picturing Kenshin Himura!). Takayama, hampir sama seperti Kyoto dengan skala lebih kecil dan less modern. Karena bukan musim liburan, Takayama sangat sepi dan waktu seolah berjalan sangat lambat di sini.

Berjalan-jalan di Old city yang menjual berbagai souvenirs, desert dan makanan khas, tiba-tiba Salju turun dengan lebat. Ini adalah salju pertama saya selama di Jepang!

Berada di Takayama, ada satu hal yang dilarang untuk tidak dilakukan yaitu mencoba Hida Beef. Dari Udon Hida Beef, steak Hida beef hingga hida yakiniku yang dimasak bumbu miso. Sangat banyak restoran yang menjual Hida Beef dan karena merupakan salah satu jenis wagyu, Hida Beef memang premium.

Hida Beef

Namun, dibandingkan dengan kobe beef, Hida Beef slightly cheaper. Selama 3 malam di sana, saya mencoba berbagai macam cara memasak Hida Beef di restoran yang berbeda-beda. Favorit saya adalah restoran Hida-takayama kyoya. Silahkan mencoba Hida Beef yang dimasak dengan miso, it was the best flavor and beef i ever taste!

Sayangnya, karena bukan musim liburan, hampir seluruh toko tutup setelah matahari tenggelam. Karena kota ini merupan struktur kota lama berbentuk grid, sangat mudah untuk pergi ke suatu tempat dan kembali lagi tanpa tersesat. Saya tidak mencoba merasakan public transport di sini (setahu saya tidak ada kereta metro) karena pretty much semuanya bisa dijangkau dengan jalan kaki.

Sialnya, saya jatuh sakit saat di Takayama dan mencoba mencari dokter saat malam hari is impossible.

Selama di sini saya menginap di Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan selama 1 hari dan Wat Hotel 2 malam. Untuk Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan merupakan hotel dengan arsitektur Jepang tradisional atau yang biasa disebut Ryokan. Saya memberikan rating 5 out of 5 pada hotel ini karena seluruhnya sangat perfect dari service, food, kebersihan, lokasi dan kualitas tidur yang diberikan.

I woke up with view like this

Try Yukata!

Shirakawa-go

This is the climax of my winter trip in Japan! Berawal dari random encounter foto sebuah desa di Jepang yang masuk ke dalam Unesco world Heritage karena arsitektur rumah yang unik dan tradisonal serta telah bertahan berabad-abad lamanya. Desa itu bernama Shirakawa-go.

Terletak di perfektur Gifu, Shirakawa-go practically tidak berada di utara, posisinya yang berada di lembah pegunungan tinggi Jepang dengan curah saljunya yang lebat membuat Shirakawa-go menjadi salah satu heaviest snowy place on earth. Di puncaknya, salju mencapai 1-2 meter tingginya.

the house is 'buried' in snow

Karena itu, people adapted!Yang membuat Shirakawa-go selain dengan curah saljunya adalah bangunan-bangunan tradisional yang sampai sekarang masih ditinggali oleh penduduk setempat. Gosho-style house, begitu orang menyebutnya. Dengan atap tinggi yang miring di dua sisi dan terbuat dari jerami, membuat proses salju jatuh dari atap secara alami.

Snow won't stop falling

Untuk pergi ke Shirakawa-go dari Takayama, bisa menggunakan Nohi Bus yang terletak di terminal bus di sebelah stasiun JR Takayama. Saya pergi cukup pagi yaitu jam 9 pagi dan 50 menit kemudian saya tiba ketika desa ini masih sepi. Well, harga bus ini emang cukup pricey (5,500 yen atau sekitar 600rb rupiah) tapi worth every cent.

Dari jam 9.50 sampai dengan pukul 16.00 saya berjalan kaki mengitari desa ini dan merasa tidak sekalipun bosan. Ditambah lagi, salju terus turun meskipun demikian, suhu tidak terlalu menggigit karena tidak berangin.

Bergaya di depan Gosho House

Menjelejahi pusat kota, jembatan panjang yang seperti house of White Walker, hingga naik ke atas (menggunakan shuttle bus) untuk memoto pemandangan Shirakawa-go dari bukit.

Saya akan menceritakan tentang Shirakawa-go di post terpisah karena tempat ini saya nobatkan sebagai salah satu must visit place before you die.

White Walker, where are you?

Shinhotaka Ropeway

How can you deny this view?

Keesokan harinya, saya mendatangi kembali Takayama Bus terminal dan membeli tiket bus return ke Shinhotaka Ropeway. Lebih jauh daripada Shirakawa-go, yaitu sekitar1.5 jam bus dengan harga tiket sekitar 5,300 yen (include ticket ropeway).

The Ropeway

Paket bus dan ticket ropeway+lunch jauh lebih murah, namun tricky partnya adalah di musim peak, antrian bus cukup panjang terutama ketika ingin kembali ke Takayama.

Snow above my height

Saya menemukan Shinhotaka Ropeway ini juga agak 'kecelakaan'. Pada awalnya, saya ingin pergi ke Yaen Kouen park atau Snow Monkey Park, namun karena saya agak penakut melihat monyet, sebagai penggemar ropeway atau gondola dan melihat picturesque foto dari Shinhotaka, saya memutuskan pergi ke sana end yes, I am not disappointed a single bit.

Terdapat 2 jenis Ropeway di sana, yang pertama merupakan double decker yang akan berhenti di 1st stop, kemudian single ropeway yang menuju ke observatory point.

Hiking Part

Di observatory point,ada rest area untuk menikmati lunch sebelum memulai snowy hiking yang dimulai dari taman.Dan tentunya, view Japan Alpines yang diselimuti oleh salju. Well, sorry to say again, that those were bring back memories of St. Moritz, Switzerland. Yes, you don't need to go to Switzerland to enjoy the Alps, it's in here, Japan, cheaper and closer.

Selfie, at most

Di perjalanan hiking, kita bisa berhenti untuk sekedar membuat boneka salju or selfie of course.But the point is to feel the solitude of the word without sound. Di atas sana, begitu sunyi hingga yang terdengar hanyalah suara desahan angin yang menghantam ranting dan menjatuhkan salju. There, there, you will feel nothing rather than love this life.

3. Hakone

Pirate Ship di Lake Ashi

Check out dari kota Takayama, tujuan kami berikutnya adalah Hakone. Naik shinkansen dari Nagoya ke Odawara, kami menitipkan koper di coin locker dan membeli Hakone Pass. Jaringan kereta di Hakone dimiliki oleh perusahaan Odakyu, karena itu JR tidak bisa mengcover rute ini. Hakone Pass adalah the cheapest way untuk mendapatkan seluruhnya.

Kami menginap di daerah Gora, Hakone Gora Onsen Yumenoyu yang merupakan end point dari seluruh atraksi di Hakone. Ya, ceritanya karena lack of browsing kami memulai perjalanan melawan arus which ending lari-lari untuk mengejar bus terakhir.

Bermula dari Gora Station, kami menaiki kereta kemudian Cable car melewati kawah belerang yang masih aktif dan tiba di Lake Ashi. Karena hujan dan berkabut, sayangnya kami tidak bisa melihat apapun kecuali kaca yang berembun. Sampai di lake Ashi, kami naik Pirate Ship untuk menikmati danau yang terbentuk karena letusan gunung berapi beberapa abad yang lalu itu. Once again, karena hujan, saya tidak mendapatkan foto yang bagus.

Berkabut, view dari gondola

Kemudian, kami pergi ke Hakone Yumoto mengendarai bus. Di rest area, semua restoran sudah tutup padahal jam baru menunjukkan pukul 18.00. Di Hakone Yumoto kami mencari dinner yang lumayan susah dan saya kehilangan hakone pass ;(

Akhirnya, sedih dan capek, kami kembali ke hotel. Di stasiun Gora, kami disambut oleh salju yang turun dengan deras. Tidak ada pilihan lain, kami menikmati onsen di kamar hotel, sambil menikmati butiran salju yang jatuh ke bumi.

view dari Hotel

Onseeen

Turns out, perjalanan kami ke Hakone kali ini tidak terlalu sukses karena faktor cuaca. Saya tidak dapat melihat famous Fuji view dan torii gate di laut yang terkenal tersebut. Legend has it, Hakone memang paling bagus saat autumn.

Well, that's all my report. See you at My next Shirakawa-go report!