Craft Cove Blog

Thread painting

2025-09-14T20:44:00.003+10:00

Thread painting, also known as needle painting or long-and-short stitch embroidery, is a highly detailed style of hand embroidery that uses a needle and strands of thread much like a painter uses a brush and paint.

Instead of solid blocks of colour or repetitive stitches, thread painting relies on the careful layering of stitches in varying directions, lengths, and shades to create a soft, blended effect that mimics the look of brushstrokes on a canvas.

This technique is often used to create lifelike portraits of animals, flowers, and landscapes, as well as highly detailed decorative pieces.

By gradually shifting between light and dark tones of thread, embroiderers can achieve realistic depth, highlights, and shadows.

The result is embroidery that looks almost like a painting at first glance — rich in colour, texture, and detail, but entirely made from thread.

Thread painting requires patience and precision.

Each section is built up slowly, with careful attention to how each stitch overlaps the next to avoid harsh lines and to encourage smooth colour transitions.

Unlike counted techniques such as cross stitch, thread painting is free-form and guided by the artist’s eye, making every piece truly unique.

The materials are simple — a hoop, fabric, needle, and embroidery floss — but the results can be extraordinary.

Many artists work with a single strand of thread at a time to achieve the finest detail, giving their pieces a soft, painterly quality.

The technique can be combined with other embroidery styles, or it can stand alone as an art form in its own right.

At its heart, thread painting is a marriage of traditional needlework skills and the creativity of fine art.

It transforms simple threads into feathers, fur, petals, and light itself.

Each finished work tells a story not only of the subject depicted, but also of the hours of dedication, focus, and love poured into every stitch.

Thread Painting

2025-07-11T16:59:00.001+10:00

My latest obsession is embroidery

More specifically, thread painting

I spent many hours, studying, reading, and trying some simpler things, before finally feeling comfortable to try this cat

This cat uses 18 colours and took 90+ hours just for the stitching.

Refurbished website

2024-11-03T19:00:00.002+11:00

I have decided to completely refurbish my website https://craftcove.weebly.com/

It is still being done as we speak

I will no longer sell directly from there. It will become a gallery of items I have made. Both sold and not sold

I'm too eager to make new things, but not so much the admin side, so this will simplify things a bit.

To buy anything, go straight to Craft Cove you can buy many of my items from there, or you can just contact me through the contact page, or by emailing hello@craftcove.au.

You can also request an item to be uploaded to madeit, and bought from there, if you feel more comfortable that way

I'm happy to make to order if it's no longer available, although many things are one-offs, I can often make something similar

I will still take international orders, but you will need to contact me for postage costs

So to reiterate: go over to https://craftcove.weebly.com/ for a showcase of what I can do

And go to https://craftcove.au for some items ready to be sold. Or email me

Augenia Boho Bag

2024-10-22T20:54:00.006+11:00

Part 4 is now available

You will now be able to finish your bag

The pattern will go back to it's normal price on 29th of October

Augenia Boho Bag

2024-10-02T11:57:00.001+10:00

The Augenia Boho Bag pattern is available now.

Buy the Augenia Boho Bag pattern here:

Ravelry

The Augenia Boho Bag- what you'll need

2024-09-15T18:32:00.003+10:00

To make the Augenia Boho Bag, you'll need a few things

You will need some thread/yarn

For this bag, I used Panda Regal 4 ply cotton. This is equivalent to fingering yarn in other countries

I made it in a cream, black, and light blue

You could use a thicker yarn to make a bigger bag. Or even do a smaller one, by using thinner yarn. Your choice

You will need a crochet hook. I used a 3.00mm hook. Which is size D, in US

But you will need to adjust this if you use a different thickness yarn

You will need some lining. Anything will do. I used poly cotton lining fabric

But you could use anything you like. In any pattern, or colour you like

The other thing you would need is, some ribbon, cord, or some type of string, for the drawstring top

I just used ribbon

Be ready to start on October 1st

The Augenia Boho Bag

2024-08-04T19:37:00.006+10:00

The Augenia Boho Bag is a drawstring bag with some fancy stitches like popcorns and front and back post stitches to add some interest

It is fully lined, to add strength to the bag, and has ribbon to create the draw string (But you could use anything you like here)

I will be hosting this CAL for the "Crochet-A-Long with Us!" Facebook group crew starting on Tuesday, October 1st, 2024. If you would like to join in, you can either join the group or follow along here.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/450997598757832

The pattern will be available to buy through Ravelry at half price during the CAL. The normal price will be AU$7. But during the CAL it will be AU$3.50. This is less than a cup of coffee

Note: Ravelry will adjust the price to your country for you

There will be 4 parts to this pattern. each new part will be released on a Tuesday, approximately 8PM, Australian Eastern Standard Time (AEST)

Week 1- October 1st: you will learn to make the base

Week 2- October 8th: you will learn to do the pattern up to round 31

Week 3- October 15th: will be the rest of the crochet parts

Week 4- October 22nd: you will learn to sew the lining

By the end of the 4th week you will have a fully finished bag

More info coming soo

CHANGE

2024-01-14T19:10:00.003+11:00

My websites and blog, have been neglected for a while

I'm too eager to create, and not so much to write or update sites

I've since discovered that there are many errors in my websites. So these will be fixed up and changed

Watch this space

Sunburst Mandala Cushion CAL

2019-11-10T11:00:00.000+11:00

The pattern is now available from Ravelry

Download it from here ://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunburst-mandala-cushion for the small cost of AUS$4

You will receive part 1 of the pattern

Every week after, for 5 weeks, it will be updated to add the next part. By the end of the CAL you will have all 5 parts

Feel free to ask me any questions here, or on the Facebook group where it is hosted: https://www.facebook.com/groups/CrochetALongwithUs/

Have fun

Unique Christmas gift

2019-11-06T08:00:00.000+11:00

Want to make a unique Christmas gift for a loved one?

What about this cushion?

Join the crochet-along and find out how to make it

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunburst-mandala-cushion?fbclid=IwAR0Wld58tz4bhcibIcymlSb-NnYRDH0d3vFafNc4bXn3byHaXlTKrrXvOLo

Sunburst Mandala Cushion CAL intro

2019-11-03T11:45:00.000+11:00

The CAL will start on the 10th of November

There will be 5 parts to the pattern, a new part released each week. You can crochet along with others, or at your own pace

On the 9th of November you will be able to buy the pattern from Ravelry. There will be another part added each week, and you can also download that. You will get a message that an update has been added

The first part will be released on the 10th of November (Australian time), this may still be 9th November for some of you

Part 2 will be released on the 17th of November (Australian time)

Part 3 will be released on the 24th of November (Australian time)

Part 4 will be released on the 1st of December (Australian time)

Part 5 will be released on the 8th of December (Australian time)

The CAL will be hosted by https://www.facebook.com/groups/CrochetALongwithUs/

The pattern will be available from Ravelry from the 9th November https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunburst-mandala-cushion

The pattern will be discounted to AUS$4 during the CAL (that's even less in American dollars).

Or make a donation of your choice
https://craftcove.blogspot.com/2015/04/donations.html

Things you'll need

You'll need to buy the pattern from Ravelry, or make a donation, and message me

You will need some stitch markers (this type is my favourite type)

You will need a 3 mm hook,or the size hook needed for a gauge of 5 rounds of pattern = 1.6 inches (4 cm). You will also need a 3.5 mm hook

You will need 150 - 200 grams of each colour of 8 ply yarn (DK)

You will need 4 colours. eg, white, pale yellow, medium yellow, and dark yellow

You can use any colours you like, though. Here's some colour inspiration

If you want to do it in yellow, like my original, some good yarn choices are:

Yatsal Knitting Yarn 8 ply 100g
Golden yellow W048
Yellow W110
Lemon W109
White W039

Paintbox yarns DK/8 ply
Buttercup yellow 222
Mustard yellow 223
Neon yellow 258

Scheepjes catona DK/8 ply
100 Lemon Chiffon
280 Lemon
208 Yellow Gold

I've also begun making it in blues

Sunburst Mandala Cushion colour play

2019-10-16T17:03:00.000+11:00

I originally designed the Sunburst Mandala Cushion to be yellow. Like a burst of sunlight.

But you can make it any colour you like

I've played with an editing program to give you some ideas of colours you could use

Want to make this?
https://www.facebook.com/events/517057379036679/

Sunburst Mandala Cushion

2019-10-02T10:00:00.000+10:00

I wanted to create a burst of sunlight

Then I found this image

I played with crochet stitches and designs, over and over again

Eventually, I came up with this design

But I prefer something useful. So I decided to make it into a cushion

I could have made it into a round cushion like this. But I decided to play some more. I'll turn it into a square

I wanted to try something different to square it off. And I wanted to incorporate the border again, I really liked the way that turned out

So eventually I came up with this cushion

And now for the back. Do I just do a fabric back? No. I wanted more crochet. But I also want to do something that will match..... But not the same .....

Finally I came up with this

Worked as a square, but still using some overlay stitches

And still the suggestion of rays of the sun

Want to make this?

https://www.facebook.com/events/517057379036679/

Pdf's now available

2019-09-29T16:58:00.001+10:00

I've decided to make my free patterns also available as printable pdfs

They are still available for free here, but if you want a nice easy way to print it, you will be able to download it for a small fee

Patterns take a very long time, and a lot of effort to create

It is a huge process, that includes many steps

Thinking of the design

Occasionally this step can be easy.

But most often it takes a lot of thought and ideas, and looking at a lot of inspiration

Creating the design

This is probably the hardest part.

What yarn, or thread would work best for this?

What stitch, or combination of stitches would work best for this?

How many stitches will I need?

Then it needs to be made, and undone, and made, and undone, many times, usually, until it's right, and it works the way I want it

Writing it up

This is another challenging part. I usually write notes as I go. But it's a completely different thing to have the pattern written with all the proper terms and wording in it.

It takes a lot of work going through the whole pattern to add all the words, terms and phrases in the proper crochet terms so that everyone can understand it

Testing

This is where other people come into it

I need a range of people who can read crochet patterns to look through the pattern, and crochet the item

They will see it through new eyes, being unfamiliar with the design, they will often see errors, or better ways with wording than I can

I'm often amazed at what I can miss. And how different testers can see different things

Final pattern

And finally we have the final pattern

All my patterns are pretty cheap, especially when you consider my most expensive pattern might only just buy me a coffee in Australia.

The pdf's are $2 Australian, which is half a coffee

Want to learn how to make this?

2019-09-07T17:31:00.000+10:00

I have decided to have a crochet-along (CAL) for this pattern, Sunburst Mandala Cushion

What is a crochet-along? It is a group of people who work on crochet a pattern at the same time.

You work at your own pace, and if you fall behind, it doesn't matter. But there will be support from many others along the way

In this case, there will be 5 parts to the pattern, with a new part posted each week

This will start on the 10th of November, and will be hosted by this Crochet along group

It's all online. So no need to turn up anywhere, you can do it no matter where you live in the world. You can also create your own get together to have a fun and a coffee while crocheting

Find out more, and keep updated here

Illustrator, artist and cartoonist

2019-03-04T19:11:00.002+11:00

If you are interested in an artist that will impact Australia's modern art scene; Dana Lawson is someone to familiarise yourself with. (Eryngium Miasma; the Art of Dana Lawson).

I have had the pleasure of reviewing the work of this young artist and highly recommend perusing her opus. (links listed below).

As a published cartoonist her rendering of fantasy characters surpasses the wildest imagination.
Her cast of captivating dramatis personae burst to life with articulation and physiognomy.

Dana's use of colour is vibrant while creating atmosphere. Her pieces are visually stimulating and exciting. She has a rare talent of awaking her troupe, giving the viewer insight into their individual personalities.

This, 'up and coming', artist and cartoonist, is preceded by progenitors with their own expertise and flair.

Jenny Augenia Lawson is a prolific and experienced artisan. Working in many different media, wire, beading and an authority on fiber craft, Jenny is a known mastercraftsman, (Craft Cove).

Dana's father, Peter. J. Lawson, is also a published cartoonist. His skill and talent has been pursued resulting in his own comic, 'Torn', (Pestiferous Picturing: The Art of Peter J. Lawson).

The collective mastery of the Lawson clan, and their dedication to the visual arts and artistry, has produced a rising talent in Dana Lawson.

It has been an ocular indulgence to explore the oeuvre of this competent young creator.

Published in 2018 through Reverie Publications, privileged comic fans were thrilled with Dana's vibrant production and flamboyant personages.

To verbally convey the simplicity, yet complexity, of her musing band of fantasia ménage, is a task in futility.

To truly comprehend and relish this escapade into a cosmos of alien individuals only a first hand encounter will suffice.

I urge a visit to one of her links for those with a contemporary and discerning artistic eye . The visit will reward you with vibrant vertuosity, teeming with unique species and reverie beyond your uninhibited ideas of creation, originality and invention.

I cordially invite you to meet Dana's motley crew.

Delight your senses and step into this exhilarating world that is Eryngium Miasma by Dana Lawson.

Written by:
Jo-Anne Swain
Artist (oil, acrylic, pastels)
Awarding winning relief print artist
Master Spinner and Complex weaver
Fiber artist.

Links for Dana Lawson:
https://m.facebook.com/223463981134349

http://erymry.tumblr.com/

https://instagram.com/erymry?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=d2ofqhhcgxqn

Links for Jenny Augenia Lawson:
https://m.facebook.com/54587754190

https://instagram.com/craft_cove?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=t5ok85g7g73f

Links for Peter. J. Lawson:
https://m.facebook.com/115725495743869

https://instagram.com/lawsonpeterj?utm_source=ig_profile_share&igshid=1tpqqohitfd0w

All Patterns Half Price

2019-02-07T20:17:00.000+11:00

I'm currently having a sale

All of my crochet patterns are 50% off until further notice

Find them all here: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/jenny-lawson

Blocking FAQ

2019-01-21T11:36:00.000+11:00

Blocking FAQs

I have been crocheting for a very long time. At the time of writing this, it’s been about 45 years, and I’ve learnt a lot along the way.

Here are my tips and advice for blocking crochet.

What Is Blocking?

Blocking is a term used to describe the process of pinning the crochet out to the proper shape and size. There are several methods used

See How to Block for step by step instructions

Is Blocking Really Necessary?

People often ask if blocking is necessary

The bottom line is that there are no hard and fast rules. You can do what you want — it’s your crochet.

But if you want your work to look neat and professional, blocking will help.

Blocking helps the stitches stand out and gives each one its own clear space. It also sets the work to a particular shape and size. It can also stretch the item slightly, if needed

But do you need to do it to everything you crochet?

Not really. If you're making a doily or snowflakes, it's definitely worth it. But if you are crocheting blocks for a blanket, and they're all going to be joined up, it's probably not worth it, unless the sizes are too different

Is Blocking Permanent?

Sometimes.

If you block acrylic with heat, it will be permanent

Cotton and wool will need a little bit of blocking after each wash

Can You Press Rather Than Block?

Again, it's up to you

BUT

it will flatten the stitches
you will not be able to set the work to a particular shape
if it's acrylic, it may melt your work, and stick to the iron

What Tools are Required For Blocking?

something firm that you can pin into

rust-proof pins
spray bottle
towels or plastic
measuring tape
optional, steam iron or steamer
optional, blocking templates

What Can You Use as a Blocking Board?

Any firm flat surface that you can put pins in will do

Any type of foam mats, including kids play puzzle mats, floor tiles, or yoga mats

Just a few layers of cardboard wrapped in cling wrap (I like this when I use a template underneath)

A carpeted piece of floor, covered with towels

Even a mattress covered with lots of towels or plastic

Or you can buy proper blocking boards that have grids on them

If you need to block a lot of squares for a blanket, you can put nails onto a wooden square board. Or drill holes that can have small dowels put in

Do you block squares before joining or after?

If your crochet has many pieces, such as granny squares being joined together or pieces of clothing, you will need to block the pieces individually before joining them.

What if it's a big piece?

You can put down lots of towels on the floor, or bed, and pin to that

Is it difficult to do?

No, it’s very easy

How do you know where to block so the piece isn't over stretched?

Push it slightly outwards with your hands. This means it is only being pushed out slightly, rather than being stretched.

How do you do it without damaging the stitches?

Don’t overstretch the item, and use lots of pins.

What Temperature Should the Water Be, and How Long Should It Soak?

It’s a good idea to check the yarn label for the recommended temperature. But if you don’t have the label, or are unsure, lukewarm or even cold water is fine.

Soaking for 5–10 minutes is usually long enough.

A light spray is also fine, but I prefer to saturate the whole item thoroughly.

How long to dry?

This can vary on temperature of the room, humidity, and dampness of the piece

A hairdryer (on cool setting) can help, or a fan

Tips for Wool, Acrylic, Cotton and Other Fibres

Be careful not to overwork wool, as it may felt.

Some people believe acrylic can’t be blocked, but I disagree. Blocking works perfectly on acrylic, and is generally permanent. If you overheat it, you might “kill” it, ie, it will go limp. But even when killed, it is still useful, and very soft

Cotton works well with steam blocking, but any other method is also fine.

What pins to use

You can use any pins that don’t rust
brass or stainless steel are good options
nickel plated pins may rust
wedding dress pins or t pins are generally rust-proof
you can also buy specific blocking pins and wires
Another option is to use toothpicks

How to pin?

Pin the centre. Then press the item outwards from the centre using your fingers. Pin again, press outwards again, and continue like this until you reach the outer edges.

I like to use a template under plastic, matching the circles to points on the crochet so I can keep it even.

Do you flip it to dry other side?

No, you pin it right side up only.

Is there any chance that colours will run during the blocking process? What can I do if I’m concerned about this?

This will depend on your yarn. It’s best to test the yarn before starting your project.

But if you don’t know, try soaking the yarn or finished item in a vinegar solution for half an hour, then rinse thoroughly. Salt can also help.

How wet does it have to be?

The item doesn’t even have to be wet; you can block it when it’s dry. However, I don’t find this very effective.

I find damp, but not dripping wet, followed by steaming, to be the most effective.

You can press it in a towel to remove some extra moisture.

But any level of dampness will do.

Should You Wash It, or Just Dampen It?

It’s a good idea to take this opportunity to wash the item, but this is very much a personal choice

Launder it with your usual detergent, as long as it is suitable for the fibre.

It can also be dampened by saturating it in water, then squeezing out the excess water and/or pressing it in a towel.

Alternatively, it can be blocked dry and then steamed, although I don’t find this as effective.

Do You Have to Block It After Each Wash?

Generally, yes. But if acrylic has been heat-blocked, the shaping will be permanent and it won’t need to be blocked after each wash.

Other fibres may need a little blocking after each wash, but this will mostly just involve drying the item flat and shaping it.

How Do I Block Items That Aren’t Square or Round?

The same way, but it’s a good idea to use a template to make sure the shape is even.

What Can Go Wrong?

The main thing to avoid is pulling too hard or not using enough pins at the edges of the work, as this can create scalloped edges and points.

You can prevent this by gently pushing the work to the edges and using plenty of pins around the edges.

Blocking wires can also help prevent this.

What Is a Blocking Template?

This is basically a piece of paper with the shape of the item on it. It has circles or squares an equal distance apart, along with markings to help measure your piece to a set shape and size.

For square or rectangular items, you only need a grid, and many foam blocking boards will already have one.

When it comes to circles, doilies or snowflakes, you will need a circle guide with the same number of spokes as the points on your snowflake, doily or circle. If your item doesn’t have points, match the number of starting stitches with the number of spokes instead.

There are some great templates here by Kate Crochets.

http://katecrochets.blogspot.com/2006/11/blocking-guides-for-doilies-and.html

How Do You Use a Blocking Template?

If you already have a blocking board with grids or markings, you won’t need a template.

But if you don’t, my preferred way is to print the template on A4 paper. Then put it into a plastic sleeve protector and place it on the blocking board.

If the item is a bit larger, you can use the poster option on your computer to print the template over four or more pages. The pages can then be joined together on the blocking board.

If the item is very large, you don’t necessarily need a template. A measuring tape can be useful for keeping the measurements even on all sides.

Do You Need to Use a Blocking Template?

No, but it will help keep your work even and looking professional.

See how to do it here

Have you found this useful? Please comment below

And feel free to share this blog, but please give me credit for it, and don't share parts of it

Crochet Blocking 101

2019-01-14T10:38:00.001+11:00

How to Block

Blocking is a term used to describe the process of pinning the crochet out to the proper shape and size. It separates the stitches and relaxes them into shape.

I have been crocheting for close to 50 years (at the time of writing this), and these are some of the ways I do it

Blocking is great for all fibres, but acrylic will need heat. I prefer to wet block, pin and steam it. This also softens the fibres.

See the FAQs for more information.

Tools required

something firm that pins can be pinned into

rust-proof pins
spray bottle
towels or plastic
measuring tape
optional, steam iron or steamer
optional, blocking templates

Method

The first step is to sew in all loose ends of the crochet item

Then you need to choose your blocking mat. (see FAQs for ideas)

Make sure you have one large enough to lay your item flat

Now is a good opportunity to wash your crochet item if desired, and rinse well

If not, decide whether you want to do a dry steam block or wet block, or spray only

For wet blocking only. Submerge the item fully, and soak for several minutes.

Remove and squeeze well. Do not wring

Roll into a towel, and press to remove more moisture

Blocking square or rectangle items

Line up and pin along one edge, without stretching, but pull slightly to spread the stitches.

Measure the edge, and pull the left side down to match the measurement.

If you have a grid you can easily line it up. Do the same with the bottom and side of the item

Remove pins, and repin as needed until every edge measures the same

Push the crochet across, rather than stretch with pins

Be sure to use a lot of pins on the outside edge, or pin in a row very close to the edge instead of the

last row.

Don’t pull the crochet outward too much with the pins, as this can create a scalloped edge.

Be careful not to get the scalloped edge

Finished

Blocking circles and snowflakes

Decide on your blocking template, matching number of spokes, if you’re using one. I prefer to use one on round items to get the shape even

I like the ones from here: http://katecrochets.blogspot.com/2006/11/blocking-guides-for-doilies-and.html

Some people just stretch the outer edge, but this only stretches the stitches and may make the work uneven. It's a much better idea to put pins in at regular intervals

Line up the center of the wet or dry item with the center of the template or board. Pin it in the center

Decide on a row of the doily close to the center. Line up with the spokes of the template. Push it towards the outside, pin.

Line up another spoke with the same row of crochet, pin again

Do this all the way around.

Then decide on another row, and repeat the process

Continue until you reach the edge of the crochet item

Have a close look at the item, to see if everything is even, and if any more pins are needed

Be sure to use a lot of pins on the outside edge, or pin in a row very close to the edge instead of the last row. Don’t pull the crochet outward too much with the pins, as this can create a scalloped edge.

If you choose to spray block, spray all over, making it slightly damp and then leave it somewhere to dry thoroughly

Steaming All Shapes

Now you can either spray with water till damp and then steam the item, or just steam on the dry item

To steam, use a steamer, or iron on highest setting with steam selected

Hold the iron or steamer about 5 cm away from the item for 10–15 seconds in each section before moving to the next section. Do not touch the iron to the item

Continue until the whole item has been steamed.

Leave the item in an airy place until cold and fully dry, possibly more than one day

When fully dry remove the pins

And it's done

Have a question? You may find the answer here. https://craftcove.blogspot.com/2019/01/blocking-faq.html

Have you found this tutorial useful? Please leave a comment below.

Feel free to share this tutorial, but please give me credit and share the link to the original post rather than copying parts of it.

Crazy Quilting finished

2018-12-21T17:34:00.000+11:00

And now to add all the other bits and pieces

I took a while to figure out the best options for my initials and date. But I finally figured it out

I decided it needed to be bead embroidery for the initials. But the date was too small for that. Stem stitch was not going well for it either. In the end I chose back stitch

I am so pleased with this

Crazy Quilting task 11

2018-12-14T17:55:00.000+11:00

And now for the roses along the vine

I'm so happy with all of this

Crazy Quilting task 10

2018-12-07T17:26:00.000+11:00

And now for the tiny roses

French knotted ribbon roses here

And another type of ribbon rose here

Hexagon 2 Crochet Pattern – UK Terms

2018-12-05T17:35:00.000+11:00

This pattern was created to make a blanket for a girl that was attacked terribly. I wanted to do something special for her. So I created a hexagon for people to add to the blanket

Read more about it here: https://craftcove.blogspot.com/2018/01/hexes-against-bullies.html

First I made this pattern here. But decided it might be too much for every hexagon to be the same, and some people might find it too difficult. So I created this other plain one.

This pattern is available to everyone for free. But I ask you not to share it, or claim it as your own, but feel free to share the link from here. I also ask you to please think about bullying, and the terrible effect it has on people, while making it

Want this as a printable pdf? Get it here for a small fee

Hexagon 2 Pattern – UK Terms

US terms here

Pattern Terms – UK
Yarn: 8 ply Marvel, in pink or blue, please stick to one colour throughout
Hook: 3.50 mm
Size: 19 cm

Round 1: MR, 6 tr. (Or 3 ch, 6 tr in first ch), slst into first st (6)

Round 2: 5 ch (counts as 1^st tr and 2 ch), 1 tr in same st, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in every other stitch around, slst into first st. (12)

Round 3: 3 ch, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in next st, slst into first st.

Round 4: 3 ch, 1 tr in next st, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 2 sts,1 tr between next 2 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, 1 tr between next 2 sts, slst into first st.

Round 5: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 7 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in each of next 4 sts, slst into first st.

Round 6: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 3 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 9 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in each of next 5 sts, slst into first st.

Round 7: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 11 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in each of next 6 sts, slst into first st.

Round 8: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 5 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 13 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in each of next 7 sts, slst into first st.

Round 9: 3 ch, 1 tr in each of next 6 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in next stitch**, 1 tr in each of the next 15 sts, rep from * to **, 1 tr in each of next 8 sts, slst into first st.

Round 10: 1 ch, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next stitch**, 1 dc in each of the next 17 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 9 sts, slst into first st.

Round 11: 1 ch, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next stitch**, 1 dc in each of the next 19 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 10 sts, slst into first st.

Pattern created by Augenia (Jenny) Lawson

https://craftcove.au/

https://www.facebook.com/craftcove

For any questions, email me at hello@craftcove.au

More tutorials can be found on the Craft Cove blog and in my Ravelry shop.

Please do not distribute, lend or copy any parts of this pattern.

Do not mass produce items made with this pattern.

Hexagon 2 Crochet Pattern – US Terms

2018-12-05T17:32:00.002+11:00

This pattern was created to make a blanket for a girl that was attacked terribly. I wanted to do something special for her.

Read more about it here: https://craftcove.blogspot.com/2018/01/hexes-against-bullies.html

First I made this fancier pattern (find it here). But decided it might be too much for every hexagon to be the same, and some people might find it too difficult. So I created this other plain one. The 2 together are perfect

This pattern is available to everyone for free. But I ask you not to share it, or claim it as your own, but feel free to share the link from here. I also ask you to please think about bullying, and the terrible effect it has on people, while making it

Want this as a printable pdf? Get it here for a small fee

Hexagon 2 Pattern – US Terms.

Find the pattern for UK terms here

Pattern Terms: US
Yarn: 8 ply Marvel, in pink or blue, please stick to one colour throughout
Hook: 3.50 mm
Size: 19 cm

Round 1: MR, 6 dc. (Or 3 ch, 6 dc in first ch), slst into first st (6)

Round 2: 5 ch (counts as 1^st dc and 2 ch), 1 dc in same st, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in every other stitch around, slst into first st. (12)

Round 3: 3 ch, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from* five times, until**, 1 dc in next st, slst into first st. (24)

Round 4: 3 ch, 1 dc in next st, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts,1 dc between next 2 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 1 dc between next 2 sts, slst into first st. (42)

Round 5: 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 7 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, slst into first st. (54)

Round 6: 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 9 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, slst into first st. (66)

Round 7: 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 11 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, slst into first st. (78)

Round 8: 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 13 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 7 sts, slst into first st. (90)

Round 9: 3 ch, 1 dc in each of next 6 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts, rep from * to **, 1 dc in each of next 8 sts, slst into first st. (102)

Round 10: 1 ch, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 7 sts, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 sc in each of the next 17 sts, rep from * to **, 1 sc in each of next 9 sts, slst into first st. (114)

Round 11: 1 ch, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in next 2ch sp**, 1 sc in each of the next 19 sts, rep from * to **, 1 sc in each of next 10 sts, slst into first st. (126)

Pattern created by Augenia (Jenny) Lawson

https://craftcove.au/

https://www.facebook.com/craftcove

For any questions, email me at hello@craftcove.au

More tutorials can be found on the Craft Cove blog and in my Ravelry shop.

Please do not distribute, lend or copy any parts of this pattern.

Do not mass produce items made with this pattern.

Hexagon 1 Crochet Pattern – UK Terms

2018-12-05T16:54:00.001+11:00

This pattern was created to make a blanket for a girl who had been badly bullied. I wanted to do something special for her.

Read more about it here: You can read more about the story behind the blanket here: https://craftcove.blogspot.com/2018/01/hexes-against-bullies.html

First I made this pattern, but decided it might be too much for every hexagon to be the same, and some people might find it too difficult. So I created another, simpler one. The pattern is here here

This pattern is available to everyone for free. Please don’t share the pattern itself or claim it as your own, but feel free to share the link to this page. I also ask you to think about bullying and the terrible effect it can have on people while making it.

Want this as a printable pdf? Get it here for a small fee

Hexagon 1 Pattern – UK Terms

US terms here

Pattern Terms– UK
Yarn: 8 ply Marvel, in pink or blue
Hook: 3.50 mm
Size: 19 cm

Special Stitches Used

Puff stitch: yarn over, insert hook through stitch, pull up a long loop, repeat 4 more times in same stitch, yarn over, pull through all but last loop, yarn over, pull through all remaining loops. http://www.mooglyblog.com/puff-stitch-tutorial/

Split puff stitch: Work the same as the puff stitch, but work three in the first stitch and three in the next stitch.

Picot: 3 ch, slst into the top of the previous stitch.

bpdc/bptr/bpdtr: dc/tr/dtr worked around the post of the stitch from the previous round. Insert the hook from back to front through the right side, then back to front through the left side. http://www.mooglyblog.com/post-stitches-raisedrelief/

BLO: Back loop only, Normal stitches worked in the back loop only, instead of the usual 2 loops. http://www.mooglyblog.com/front-loop-only-flo-and-back-loop-only-blo/

Shell stitch: (1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr) all in the same stitch

Standing tr: Attach a slip stitch to the hook, yarn over the hook, hold it tight, and work the stitch normally. http://www.mooglyblog.com/standing-double-crochet-joining/

1 dc through picot -2 versions: version 1: Insert the hook through the picot from back to front, then down and back to the back, picking up one or two threads. Work a dc as usual.

Version 2: Fold the picot forward and work through one or two stitches at the back of the picot.

Round 1: MR, 6 dc. (Or 2 ch, 5 dc in first ch), slst into first st (6 dcs)

Round 2: 3 ch (or 1 standing tr), 1 tr in 1^st st, 2 tr in every other stitch around, slst into first st. Fasten off. (12 trs)

Round 3: attach yarn to any stitch, 1 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, *5 ch, 1 split puff stitch across next 2 sts, 5 ch,** 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, slst into first st (6 dcs, 6 Ch 5s, 3 split puffs)

Round 4: 1 ch, 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *5 dc along side chains, 1 dc in top of st, 1 picot, 5 dc down other side**,1 dc in each of next 2 sts, rep from * all around, ending last rep at ** . slst into first st. Fasten off. (42 dcs, 3 picots)

Round 5: BLO. Attach yarn to first dc from any pair, 3 chain, (or 1 standing double treble, 1 ch), (1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr) in same st, 1 picot, 1 shell st in next stitch, 2 ch, sk next 5 dc, 1 dc through picot (see special sts), 2 ch, sk next 5 sts, *1 shell st in next stitch, picot, 1 shell stitch in next stitch, 2 ch, sk next 5 sts, 1 dc through picot (see special sts), 2 ch**, rep from * all around, ending last rep at **slst into first st. Fasten off. (24 dtrs,3 picots, 12 ch, 3 dc through picot)

Round 6: Attach yarn to first st after any picot from round 5, 2 ch (or 1 standing bptr), 1 ch, 1 bptr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bpdtr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bpdtr in next st, *2 ch, 1 bpdtr in dc behind picot, 1 picot, 2 ch, 1 bpdtr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bpdtr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bptr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bptr in next st, 1 ch, 1 dc through picot (see special sts), 1 picot, 1 ch**, 1 bptr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bptr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bpdtr in next st, 1 ch, 1 bpdtr in next st**, rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, slst into first st. Fasten off. (12 bptrs, 15 bpdtrs, 6 picots, 36 chs, 3 dc through picots)

Round 7: BLO, except in ch sts, Attach yarn to 1^st st after dtr with picot, 1 ch, 1 dc (or standing dc), *(1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next st) 3 times, 1 dc in ch, 1 dc through picot (see special sts),(1 dc in next ch, 1 dc in next st) 4 times, 2 dc in next ch sp,1 dc through picot (see special sts), 2 dc in next ch sp**, rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, slst into first st. Fasten off. (24 bldc, 36 dcs, 6 dc through picots)

Round 8: BLO, Attach yarn to 1^st st after tr behind picot, 3 ch (or 1 standing tr), 1 tr in each of next 9 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in st behind picot,**1 tr in each of next 10 sts. rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, slst into first st. Fasten off. (60 trs, 6(1tr,2ch,1tr) cnrs)

Round 9: BLO, Attach yarn to 1^st st after 2 ch, 3 ch (or Standing tr) *1 tr in next st, 1 puff st in next st, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, 1 split puff st across next 2 sts, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, 1 puff st in next st, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner,. rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, slst into first st. Fasten off. (48 trs, 12 puff sts, 6 split puffs, 6(1tr,2ch,1tr) cnrs)

Round 10: Attach yarn to 1^st st after corner 2 ch, 1 ch, 1 dc in same st (or standing dc), 1 dc in each of next 12 sts, *(1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in corner 2 ch, 1 dc in each of next 13 sts**. rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in corner 2 ch, slst into first st. Fasten off. (52 dcs, 6(1dc,2ch,1dc) cnrs)

Round 11: Attach yarn to 1^st st after corner 2 ch, 3 ch (or 1 standing tr), 1 tr in each of next 14 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner, 1 tr in each of next 15 sts,**. rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner, slst into first st. Fasten off. (90trs, 6(1tr,2ch,1tr) cnrs)

Round 12: Attach yarn to 1^st st after corner 2 ch, 3 ch (or 1 standing bptr), 1 bptr in each of next 16 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner, 1 bptr in each of next 17 sts,**. rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner, slst into first st. Fasten off. (102 bptrs, 6(1tr,2ch,1tr) cnrs)

Round 13: Attach yarn to 1^st st after corner 2 ch, 3 ch (or 1 standing bptr), 1 bptr in each of next 18 sts, *(1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner, 1 bptr in each of next 19 sts,**. rep from * all around, ending last rep at **, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in corner, slst into first st. Fasten off. (114 bptrs, 6(1tr,2ch,1tr) cnrs)

If you need images to help, you can download the PDF file here

Pattern created by Augenia (Jenny) Lawson

Craft Cove

https://www.facebook.com/craftcove

For any questions, email me at hello@craftcove.au

More tutorials can be found at: Jewellery from Craft Cove

and Ravelry

Please do not distribute, lend or copy any parts of this pattern.

Do not mass produce items made with this pattern.