HOME HOW TO GUIDES

CHIMES & DOORBELLS

2011-05-30T07:46:00.000-07:00

TOOL & MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Chimes or Doorbell(s), 120V Transformer, Junction Box, Electrician's Tape, 12/3 or 14/3 Cable, Continuity Tester and Voltage Meter, Fish Tape, Bell Wire, Screwdriver (Phillips/Standard), Wire Connectors, Medium Grit Abrasive.

Doorbells, chimes, and buzzers operate on a low-voltage electrical system which usually requires 16 to 24 volts of power (sometimes a little more or a little less than this figure). The electricity is supplied by 120-volt housepower connected to a bell/chime transformer. The transformer reduces the 120-volt housepower load to the lower voltage figure.
Bell wire which you can buy in single insulated rolls is 18- or 20-gauge. Transformers are pre-wired for housepower connections. The connections are made in a junction box; the transformer usually is fastened directly to the junction box or alongside of it. Chimes and bells are also usually pre-wired, making wire connections easy directly to screw type terminals.
If you are installing a new system, replacing old chimes, buzzers, or bells with new sounding devices, or just repairing the system, you'll find the techniques very similar and extremely easy to do. The exception might be a new system where the bell wires have to be fished through walls, ceilings, and framing members; this can require lots and lots of patience.
If you are replacing old bells, buzzers, or chimes with new ones, it's just a matter of disconnecting the wires at the devices, removing them, and hooking up the new devices-almost without exception.
Any difference will be noted in the manufacturer's instructions that are packaged with the units.

REPAIRING THE SYSTEM

When the doorbell, chimes, or buzzer won't sound, one of four problems can exist. All are simple to solve. The problems, in order of "breakdown" are:
Non-working bell buttons. These buttons are located on the trim or siding of the house outdoors. They are attached with screws; the screws sometimes are hidden by a decorative escutcheon that snaps into place over the button assembly.
As you would guess, rain, snow, heat, and cold can play havoc with the button connections-usually in the form of metal corrosion. The procedure:

Remove the button from its mounting by backing out the screws. If the screws are hidden, try prying up with the tip of a standard screwdriver on the decorative escutcheon covering the button assembly. Easy does it. Don't damage the thin metal. Then remove the screws. This should expose the button terminals and the bell wires.
A Remove the bell wires from the terminals. With sandpaper, clean away any corrosion from the various parts. Then touch the wires together, holding them by the insulation. (Since the system is low-voltage you don't have to worry about electrical shock; however, it is recommended that you don't touch bare wires and that you disconnect the system from the power source when working at the transformer/housepower connection where higher voltage is present.)
When the wires touch, the bell, chime, or buzzer should sound. If it DOES sound, the problem is in the button. Simply replace the old button with a new button and connect the bell wires to the terminals. It if does NOT sound, the problem is elsewhere. Read on to solve the mystery.

Loose or disconnected wires at the bell(s), chimes, or buzzer(s). Loose wires on terminals are not typically common. However, it can happen through sound vibration of the device. Check the bell wire at the terminals and retighten the terminals with a screwdriver. The terminals turn down clockwise.
As a suggestion, twist the bare bell wires together at the button so you don't have to keep running back and forth to test the system after you tighten terminals on the sounding device. If the device doesn't sound after this check, try this:
Loose or disconnected wires at the transformer. It isn't likely, but have a look. For safety, disconnect the housepower at the main service entrance. Then tighten or reconnect the bell wires to the transformer. Turn on the power. No noise? Go to the next step below:
A transformer gone bad. With a voltmeter, touch each terminals with the meter probes. If there is no reading, the transformer needs replacement. If you don't have a voltmeter, and with the power on, use a jumper wire to test the transformer. Be careful. To make a jumper wire, use a short length of No. 14 or No. 16 gauge single wire. Strip the insulation back about 3/4-inch on each end. Touch one bare end to a bell wire terminal and the other bare end to the other bell wire terminal. You should see a faint spark when you move the wire across one or the other terminal. If so, the transformer is okay. If not, the transformer will have to be replaced.
If the system chimes with a 2-button operator, and none of the above works, take the voltmeter and touch one probe to the terminal marked "front" on the chimes. Touch the other probe to the terminal marked "trans." If the voltmeter has any reading at all, the chimes are bad and need replacement. If you don't have a voltmeter, try hooking the chimes directly to the transformer. The chimes will ring if they are okay.
Should all of the above fail, the problem most likely is a broken bell wire somewhere in the system. Here, you'll have to restring the wires; start with the transformer wire first, and then the button wires.

REPLACING THE SYSTEM

Replacing is easier than checking out the system for malfunction, as detailed above. Here, you will replace the buttons and the chimes, bells, or buzzer; you probably can use the old transformer and most certainly the bell wires with few exceptions. Just make sure that the new system you buy utilizes the same voltage as the old-read the markings on the equipment to be sure.

Remove the old chimes, buzzers, bells. Install the new products and fasten them in place. Tag the wires marked "front," "back," and "trans," so you won't mix the wires when reconnecting them.
Connect the tagged wires to the proper terminals.
Remove and disconnect the old bell buttons. Then install the new ones and connect them to the bell wires. Test the system. It should work, perfectly.

INSTALLING A NEW SYSTEM

The first step is to select a spot for the sounding device. It is recommended that you place it near the center of the house and mount it about 6 ft. above the floor. Do not mount the device above a heat source or on a door. Next, locate the power source. You will have to tap into it for power via the transformer to the sounding device and the door buttons. The power source can't be switch-controlled.
The transformer can be wired directly into a junction box in a basement or attic or above a dropped ceiling. Once the doorbell and transformer locations are determined, you can estimate the amount of bell wire you will need. Measure the entire distance in feet from the transformer to the sounding device and then from the device to each door button. Add an extra 15 feet to your measurement for connections and pathway turns. The wire you buy should be "low-voltage" that is rated at 300 volts. It probably will be designated as thermostat wire, a No. 20 or larger AGW rated wire, or an equivalent bell wire. The doorbell will dictate what size transformer is needed in amps and reduced voltage. This information usually is clearly marked by manufacturers on or in the packages.

Mount the transformer first. Determine which circuit feeds the outlet that you will mount the transformer on. Turn off the power to this circuit. Remove one of the knockouts in the junction box and mount the transformer according to the manufacturer's instructions. The illustrations in this Booklet can serve as a guideline.
Usually, there will be two terminals on the outside of the transformer and two wires extending out from the transformer. The terminals are for bell wire. The wires are to be connected to the higher voltage circuit wires.
Pass the wires, which are not color-coded, through the knockout. Connect one of the high voltage wires to the black insulated cable wire in the junction box and the other high voltage wire to the white insulated cable. The order makes no difference. Use wire connectors for the connection and tape the wire connectors with electrician's tape. Fasten the transformer to the junction box, or nearby, and replace the cover on the junction box.

Low voltage connections. The instructions for wiring the bell may vary: follow them carefully. In essence, you will have three places from which you must run wire-the door buttons (front and back) and the sounding device.

The Openings. Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the wall for the sounding device. Drill a 3/4-inch entry hole in the framing plate in order to run the wire to the transformer. Then create the openings for the door buttons. Measure up about 4 1/2-feet from the ground, or stoop, or porch and mark. Measure in about 4 inches from this mark. Otherwise, you will drill into the studs at the side of the door frame. Drill a 1/2-inch hole at this mark-or whatever size hole is needed for the door button. You will have to drill a 3/4-inch hole inthe sill plate directly below the hole for the button, if the wires come up from the floor. Otherwise, you will have to drill a hole in the top plate and fish the wires down from above in the attic or attic crawl space.
Fishing bell wire is the hard part. This is where a plan comes in handy. Try to find or adapt a power source in a spot that makes wire fishing easier. For example, try to run the wire along open framing in the basement or attic. This way, the wiring will be up or down instead of having to wind throu i walls. The illustrations show wire fishing techniques for wire cable. The same applies for bell wire. The bell wires have to extend from the transformer to the sounding device, from the sounding device to the door buttons, and from the door buttons to the transformer. You can use cable staples to staple the wires to wooden framing members. Space the staples about every 4 feet.
Transformer Hookup. Remove about 1/2inch of insulation from the bell wires. Connect the wires to the transformer terminals as marked and tighten the terminal screws. Do the same for the wires at the door button and sounding device locations.
Finishing the Job. Mount the sounding device with the right kind of wall anchorstoggles or Molly anchors. Mount the door buttons with wood screws or screws and lead plugs in masonry. You will have to use a masonry drill to punch the holes for the lead plugs. Or use a small star drill. Wear eye protection.

CEILING FAN HOOK-UPS

2011-05-29T22:32:00.000-07:00

TOOL & MATERIAL CHECKLIST
Ceiling Fan, Hammer, Wire Nuts, Hacksaw, Stepladder, Phillips and Standard Slot Screwdrivers, Wire Insulation Strippers, Plastic Electrician's Tape, Hex/Allen Wrench, 12/2 With Ground Cable.

Ceiling fans in your home can be a real energy saver with an added bonus of more comfort for everyone at little cost for the electrical power that operates the fan units. Fans are less expensive to buy now than several years ago, making the total package a bargain from store, to ceiling, to air circulation.
Ceiling fans help lower both air conditioning and heating costs. In air-conditioned rooms, the cool air tends to pool on the floor surface. With the paddles of a slow turning ceiling fan stirring the air, cool air is distributed throughout the room. In heating situations, rooms may be comfortable at a floor level, but uncomfortably warm near the ceiling: a sleeping loft; and upper berth of a bunk bed; or a room with a cathedral ceiling are good examples. The fan corrects this by circulating the rising warm air throughout the room. It costs just pennies to distribute the costly-produced heat. A ceiling fan working during the summer season to cool can provide plenty of comfort for a fraction of the cost of running a window or central air conditioning unit.

THE RIGHT BLADE SPAN

Critical in choosing a ceiling fan is the correct blade span. The span is the distance from the tip of one blade to the tip of another opposite blade.
Thirty-six inch fans are the rooms up to 9x12 feet. Examples are kitchens, bathrooms, large closets.
Forty-two inch fans are designed for rooms up to 12x15 feet. Examples are kid's bedrooms, large kitchens, family rooms, studies.
Fifty-two inch fans are for rooms larger than 12x15 feet. Living rooms, dining rooms, large porches, master bedrooms, recreation rooms, large family rooms are examples.
The number of fan blades can be important in your ceiling fan selection. Most fans have four blades. Others have five or six blades. The additional blades permit a smaller fan to produce similar air movement of a larger fan. For example, a smaller fan with more than four blades is about equal to a larger fan with four blades.

DIFFERENT CONFIGURATIONS

There are three different basic installation configurations you should consider: downrod style, next-to-the-ceiling style, and "duomount" style.
Downrod. This is the traditional style. The design incorporates an 8-inch downrod from the ceiling to the top of the fan motor. The design is tailored to rooms with high ceilings-those over 8-feet-or rooms where the fan will be installed over furniture. It is an excellent choice for cathedral ceilings. Downrod units generally have a self-aligning ball hanging canopy. This device lets you install the fans on ceilings with up to a 45-degree slope or pitch.
Next-to-ceiling. For ceilings 8 feet or less, this style is a wise choice. Installation permits maximum clearance in rooms which have high traffic. There are two configurations in this style:

Adapter configuration utilizes a traditional fan design. It has a bottom plate, side band, and top plate. Instead of a downrod, the adapter provides additional clearance from the bottom of the fan to the floor.
Cannister configuration has the same clearance as the adapter. Its design combines traditional and modern styling in a unique look.

Duo-Mount style permits a traditional down rod installation or a next-to-ceiling installation.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION

The blades of ceiling fans must be at least 7 feet. from the floor. There should be at least 12 inches of clearance between the top of the blades and the ceiling surface of the room in which the fan is installed. The blades should also be free to rotate: no obstructions in the rotation path. If you are doubtful about blade clearance, be sure to check the length of the fan blades at the store.
Ceiling fans operate on regular housepower. You can connect the fans directly to the wires in a ceiling outlet box, for example. No electric transformers or special switching devices are needed. Or, you can run a power wire to the outlet box. Buy No. 12/2 wire with ground for this installation. You can tap into an existing power wire in the attic or crawl space. Or, you can fish a wire to a wall outlet and tap into power at this point. A third alternative is to run a wire from the main electrical entrance panel. However, you should have a professional make this connection-and the other connections, if you don't have the know-how.

CAUTION:
Before working with electrical wires,
turn off the power to the circuit on which
you will be working at the main electrical
service entrance. Do not flip a switch in the
room and expect the power to be off.
Go to the source panel.

Installation Data

Hanging brackets can vary slightly by fan design and the manufacturer of the fan. Most brackets have a ball and socket of J-hook suspension. The ball-and-socket keeps the fan in a level mode while it is running-and not running-and the device also helps prevent vibration and noise created by the rotation of the fan blades at various speeds.
Some manufacturers suspend their fans with a J-hook device. The fan just hooks over a bracket connected to a ceiling joist or other similar framing in the ceiling.
To install any ceiling fan to an existing outlet in the ceiling, remove the ceiling light first. In order: remove the cap nut holding the decorative covering or escutcheon over the electrical ceiling box; then unscrew the lock nut, strap or hanger bracket, and the stud or nipple assembly that connects to the center of the box; after you turn off the power at the main service entrance, disconnect the power wires from the light socket assembly.

If there is just an escutcheon or decorative plate hiding the ceiling box, simply remove the nut holding the escutcheon to the box. If there is no light or escutcheon, there may still be an electrical box hidden by plaster or gypsum board joint cement. If you get at an angle to the light on the ceiling, you may be able to detect a slight texture difference in ceiling material, and that's where the box will be located. Peel back the ceiling covering material with a cold chisel and hammer to reveal the ceiling box or electrical connection at this point.

SWIVEL BRACKET. The bracket usually is attached to the framing member that supports the electrical box. This member can be a joist, rafter, or "cripple" that has been nailed into position to support the electrical box.
Do not attach the bracket to the electrical box make sure the bracket is fastened to a framing member that is securely fastened. This framing must support the weight of the fan as well as the torque produced by the rotation of the fan blades.

J HOOKS. If the fan will be mounted on J-hooks the device is also fastened to a framing member such as a ceiling joist It goes through a knockout in the bottom of the electrical box directly into the framing member. Do not fasten the j hook to the electrical box.

ON EXPOSED BEAMS. If the fan will be mounted on an exposed beam ceiling, such as in a room with cathedral ceiling, position the fan between the beams, using a 2x4 or 2x6-inch length of wood between the beams to hang the fan. You can use a fan with a ball-and-socket type (swivel) hanging device. Or, you can buy a "Hang-Fast" bracket (or similar bracket) for the installation. There usually must be 6 ins. of space for the bracket. Brackets also may be used where attic crawl space is not available for mounting and hooking up the ceiling fan.
The blocking between exposed beams can be spiked to the beams with 16d or 20d nails. If 16d, use finishing nails, countersink the nail-leads, and fill the holes with a matching wood filler.
Then install a ceiling electrical box to the
wood blocking. Knock-out the round plug in the bottom or side of the box to accept the power wire and the box connection. The knockout is also for the hanger, which is fastened to the blocking through the knockout. Do not fasten the hanger to the ceiling box. The ceiling box hanger will be covered by the coiling escutcheon usually provided in the fan kit.

ON FINISHED CEILINGS. If the fan will be installed on a finished ceiling that has no outlet/wiring, find a joist or rafter behind the ceiling covering and cut a hole through the covering where you want the fan to be located. Make the hole a bit larger than the electrical outlet box that you must install.
With a saw, notch the framing member the width and depth of the box so the bottom of the box will be flush with the surface of the ceiling. Or, mount it on the side of the framing member so the bottom is almost flush with the bottom of the ceiling material.
Power wires (12/2 with ground) are "fished" between the joists or above them, if there is a crawl space above the ceiling. The power may be tapped from an existing circuit (turn off the power before working), or you can run a brand new circuit from the main electrical panel. Have a professional electrician make this connection. Since a ceiling fan doesn't require special electrical power, try to tie-in to the power on an existing circuit.

PITCHED CEILING OR BEAM. If the ceiling is slightly pitched or the fan will hang from a beam, it is recommended that you use either a swivel hanger or angle kit. These hangers permit the fan to hang level. The fan can be supported by a hook. You'll need a block of wood to support the hook and fan. Use a short length of 4x4. Pre-drill it and bolt it to the beam. The power wire can be staple-nailed along the top or bottom edge of a beam and then routed into the electrical ceiling box. You can paint or stain the cable so it matches the beam and doesn't show.

GENERAL FAN ASSEMBLY
Most ceiling fans are assembled the same way. There may be slight variations between manufacturers, but the difference will be noted in the instructions in the fan package, if present. Here's the procedure:

GENERAL FAN ASSEMBLY

Most ceiling fans are assembled the same way. There may be slight variations between manufacturers, but the difference will be noted in the instructions in the fan package, if present. Here's the procedure:

Screw the hanger to a framing member, making sure the hanger and the framing member is securely fastened. The hanger may go "through" a knockout in the electrical box. It is never connected to the box.
Run the downrod through the canopy. Then run the three electrical wires from the fan through the downrod assembly.
Assemble the downrod into the motor stem. Attach the downrod to the motor stem, insert the bolt provided and insert and spread the cotter pin. Fasten the set screw so it is secure.
A Lift the fan into position without the blades attached. Put the vaulted ceiling mount or swivel into the hanger bracket. Now connect the power wires as explained elsewhere in this Booklet.
If the fan has a light kit, remove the switch housing on the fan and the center screw. Screw the light kit onto the bottom plate. Have a helper hold the kit assembly in position while you connect the fan's blue wire to the light's black wire and the fan's white wire to the light's white wire. Use wire nuts for these splices and wrap them with electrician's tape (plastic type). Now screw on the bottom plate, light and attach the glass.
Mount the bracket and put the blades into the holders. Now fasten the blades to the fan motor. The unit is assembled.
Connect the fan to power. The white wire goes to white, and black to black. The ground wire connects to the ceiling box via a screw or clip. Or it is spliced to an incoming ground wire. Check to make sure that the fan operates in forward and reverse. If the fan has a light kit, test the lights at this point.

BROKEN WINDOWS

2011-05-29T13:00:00.000-07:00

TOOL & MATERIAL CHECK LIST

Glass, Glazing Points, Sping Clips, Screwdriver, Brush, Tape Measure, Glazing Compund, Putty Knife, Steel Wool/Sandpaper, Finish Paint for window Trim, Gloves, Plastic Gasket, Plier, Paint/linseed Oil, Wipping Cloth.

Broken Windows are like spilled milk. Both are a reality of life and both can be replaced easily within
most budgets. Certain Types of Glass are costly, however-thermal glass, for example.
Glass used in home construction is manufactured in six different types in a price range from moderate to very expensive and in sizes almost unlimited for standard replacement in windows and doors. single strength glass is standard for windows and doors; double strength glass is the same, but is a bit stronger.
Tempered Glass, the best buy for patio doors and screen/stroom combination doors, will not shatter into jagged pieces when broken, thus providing a very important safety feature. in fact, in many areas tempered glass is requiewd by local building codes.
Safety Glass similiar to tempered glass and shouldbe considered for windows and doors subjected to heavy people traffic. Some types of safety glass have small wires embeded in the glass for strength.

Insulation Glass, or thermal glass, is generally found in patio doors or other installation where large areas of glass are used. You can tell an insulation glass installation by looking carefully around the edge of a window or door. you'll see a metal strip dividing the section of glass. It's this "double glass" with a thin layer of air space between surfaces that gives the glass its insulation or "thermal" quality. When one pane of this double-pane is broken, the entire section of glass usually must be replaced. Hence the cost.
Specialty glass includes tinted glass, frosted glass and glass blocks-products which are very expensive and are used as special accents. This glass may have to be special ordered, which adds to the price.

When buying replacement glass, we recommend that you take a piece of the broken glass to the store. With this sample the store can quickly determine the type of glass you need.
Be sure to measure carefully the exact size of the pane you need. Do not guess. Trimming bits of glass to fit can be a very difficult job-and expensive when the glass breaks.

CAUTION: When working with glass be sure to wear heavy gloves to protect your hands. If the replacement will be above your head, also wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from tiny pieces and chips of glass. If you will cut glass, we recommend that you wear both gloves and safety glasses.

GLASS IN WOODEN FRAMES
On a scale of 1 to 10, glass supported by wooden frames probably would rank No. 1 in ease of replacement. Here are the steps to take:
STEP 1
If the glass is completely broken where you can grab onto it with a gloved hand, remove the glass by simply pulling it up and out of the glazing compound that holds it in the window mullions or frame.
If the glass is just cracked, do not break it out of the frame; you could damage the frame by doing so. Instead, with a putty knife remove the glazing around the glass, as detailed in Step 2.

STEP 2
Remove the glazing from the frame, starting at about center of the frame and working toward the corners. Use a putty knife for this, trying to work the edge of the knife between the frame and the glazing compound. Once started, you should be able to almost "flip" the glazing compound out of its niche.
Most of the glazier's points that hold the glass in the frame will come out with the glazing compound. If not, use the edge of the putty knife to work the points out of the wood. You may be able to pull them out with pliers, but be careful. You don't want to damage the frames.

STEP 3
When the frame is free of glass, glazing, and glazier's points, measure the distance between the top and bottom frame and the sides of it. Measure twice. The replacement glass must fit fairly tight in the frame, but shouldn't be a push fit. You must have a little space between the
edges of the glass and the frame for a slight expansion and contraction of the wood. About 1/16-inch, on four sides is about right.
Some glass is held in windows and doors with small strips of molding instead of glazing compound. In this construction pry out the molding very carefully, with the tip of a putty knife or a stiff-bladed scraper.
If the molding is stubborn and you have room to insert the blades of two putty knives between the molding and the frame, use this trick: Insert both blades. Then insert the tip of a screwdriver between the blades and twist the handle of the screwdriver. The torque created by the screwdriver will pop the molding and the blades of the putty knives will protect the wood from damage. When the molding is off, pull any nails with pliers from the underside of the molding. Pull the nail heads right on through the wood. This way you won't split the molding so it can be used again.

STEP 4
With linseed oil or a daub of paint, coat the window frame in which the glass will go. This will help protect the raw wood from moisture damage.

STEP 5
Fit the new glass in the frame

STEP 6
Press in glazier's points around the glass into the wood. Space the points every inch or so. A metal glazing tool is usually furnished in the points' package. If not, use the tip of a putty knife to sink the points. But be very careful: easy does it.

STEP 7
Glaze the glass, using glazing compound. We've found the best way to handle glazing is to remove it from its container and wad it into a ball. Then, with you fingers, kneed it out into a roundish and long configurationlike a length of fat string.
With your fingers, press the fat string of glazing into the frame so the glazing rests on the frame and the glass. Holding a putty knife at about a 45-degree angle, press down on the glazing at a corner of the frame, and pull the knife across the glazing to the corner of the frame, maintaining the angle. Press down hard on the blade of the lcnife. You may want to extend your index finger down the blade to increase the pressure. Don't stop from corner to corner: one swipe. When finished, the glazing should be firmly packed 'in the frame with about half of the glazing on the glass and half in the frame. Let the job set for a week or so and then paint the window and glazing. Run about 1/8-inch of paint onto the glass to seal the glazing.

GLASS IN METAL CASEMENT WINDOWS

Casement windows are operated by a crank or via a lever-like length of metal that opens and closes the window. The glass panes in most casements are held in the frames with small wire clips; glazing compound fills the frames around the glassjust like on wooden windows. The procedure for replacing broken glass in casements is almost the very same as for wooden windows with a couple of minor exceptions.

STEP 1
Remove the broken glass.

STEP 2
Remove the glazing compound and the spring clips, using a putty knife and pliers, if needed. The little spring clips fit into holes in the metal frame. Usually, the clips pull right out, although you may have to give them some encouragement with pliers.

STEP 3
Measure the window frame-top to bottom and side-to-side-for the replacement glass. The new pane should be approximately 1/16 to 1/8-inch smaller on all four sides than the frame into which it will go.

STEP 4
Clean the frame, using steel wool or medium grit sandpaper to remove any glazing residue or rust from the metal. Then give the frame a coat of rust-preventative paint to protect the metal

STEP 5
When the paint has dried, insert the replacement glass and secure it with the spring clips.
Just press the clips into the little holes and position. Chances are that you will need several new spring clips because of rusting or damage when you removed the old ones.

STEP 6
Glaze the window, following the same procedures as for glass in wooden frames detailed before. Paint.

GLASS IN PLASTIC GASKETS

Horizontal sliding glass windows and some vertical sliders in combination with screens have metal frames-usually aluminum-with plastic-like inserts that hold the glass in the frames. These windows almost always have just one large piece of glass. If the window is separated into multiple panes, chances are that the "frames" are phony plastic or wood inserts that lay on the glass to give the appearance of multi-panes. You can remove the inserts by snapping them out of the metal (or sometimes wooden) framing material.

There are two types of gaskets. One type is fashioned to fit the edge of the glass; the glass rides in a groove, i.e., the plastic gasket. With the other type, the glass fits into the metal frame and the gasket material forms a seal between the glass and the frame.
In order to replace the glass, the frame or sash has to be removed from the window (sometimes a door). To do this, you slide the sash to a keyed opening along the edge of the track of the window and lift the sash up and out of the window channel.
Once out, you'll notice that the sash frame is held together with tiny screws driven into the top and bottom rails. Or, you may find tiny pins holding the frames together at the corner joints.
Remove just one screw (or pin) from the sash and pull the frame apart slightly. This should permit enough room to remove the old glass form the gasket or the gasket seal from the frame. If not, you'll have to disassemble another corner-maybe all four.
Once apart, remove all broken glass in the frame channel or groove and the gasket. Inspect the gasket for wear and tear; you may need to replace the gasket when you install the new glass.
Measure the window frame for the glass replacement. The new glass should be approximately 1/32 inch smaller than this measurement to fit properly into the groove or channel. Also, as a rule of thumb, if your measurement is 12 X 16 inches, buy single strength glass for the replacement. If the measurement is more than this, buy double strength glass. You need the extra strength for safety.
Insert the replacement glass in the groove in the plastic gasket, insert it into the frame (sash) of the window, and replace the screws or pins. If a glazing gasket is used, put the replacement glass in the sash and then press the gasket into the sash around the glass. Reassemble the frame with screws or pins.

A LITTLE MAINTENANCE, PLEASE

While you have the sash out of the window frame, we recommend that you take the opportunity and do some maintenance on the window (door).
With a vacuum or brush, clean out the window chaimel. Coat the channel with paste wax and buff the wax with a cloth. If the channel is really dirty, first clean the area with a vacuum or cloth. Then buff the channel with fine steel wool. Clean away the residue; wax and buff the channel.
If the channel is bent, you sometimes can straighten it with a rubber hammer. Place a block of wood in the channel where the window slides. Then tap the metal lightly with the rubber hammer to straighten.
If the weatherstripping on the window is shot, you can buy replacement weatherstripping and install it with a screwdriver, per instructions on the package.

GLASS IN JALOUSIE WINDOWS

Jalousie windows are made up of a series of glass slats that may be opened and closed via a crank operator (usually) along one side of the window area.
The glass slats are held in position in the assembly with tiny metal tabs that usually are simply bent over to hold the glass in position. The tabs may be located on just one side of the frame; the other side is "fixed," i.e., the glass slat slides into this opening first.
To replace a glass slat, you have to bend the little metal tab on the frame. With pliers, bend the tab out and down so the glass slips out and in. Install the new glass and bend the tabs over again to secure it.

GLASS IN STORM WINDOWS

Storm windows in construction are very similar to sliding glass windows in that the glass is held into a metal (usually aluminum) frame with a plastic gasket.
To replace the glass, remove the screws or pins at the corners of the metal frame and pull the frame apart. The glass may go into a "channel" of the gasket, or the glass may fit into the frame and the gasket is pushed down and tight against the frame and the glass.
If the storm window is wooden, the glass usually is held in a groove in the frame (a rabbet cut) with glazier's points and glazing compound. The procedures for replacing the glass would be identical to those detailed in wooden windows above.

INSULATING GLASS WINDOWS

As mentioned earlier, these windows and often sliding glass doors (patios), have two panes of glass separated by a metal channel which forms an air space between the glass. It is the same principle as putting storm windows over regular windows to create a dead air space, and, therefore, create a "thermal" window.
Often, only one pane of an insulated window breaks or becomes damaged in another way. Unfortunately, the entire unit must be replaced and this is costly. (In some construction, the builder may have created an insulated window by installing two panes of glass separated by a wooden strip. Here, only one pane of damaged glass would have to be removed and replaced since the window is not "laminated" as such.)
Since this window unit is so costly and usually very heavy in weight, we strongly suggest that you have a professional make repairs. If the window does not set correctly in its framework, a torque or twist can develop across the glass, breaking the glass again.