The Surfer's Guides

Nicaragua Surf Travel: COVID Hoops to Jump Through

2021-05-09T22:44:00.003-07:00

My friend Ryan Cook tucking into tiny Panga Drops

With the COVID outbreak, surf travel pretty much came to a halt. COVID, plus stay-at-home work and loss of jobs meant crowded local breaks, every day at all times, tides and swells. But that's ending now, so it's time to get back out there, right?

Well, I don't know about you, but I booked a flight and I'm heading to my favorite surf travel location, Nicaragua. I own a place on the beach in front of Panga Drops, and the last time I visited was just as COVID was starting its attack on the US, so I've really missed my piece of paradise. Mucho!

But with India, Brazil and a whole bunch of other countries mired in COVID disasters, what's the situation in Nicaragua? Well, it's a bit unclear. I've gotten reports from friends and locals that the healthcare system has been stressed and at times overloaded, but the official reports from the government don't tell the same story. Regardless, I've not heard of a single case in Hacienda Iguana, the home to Colorados and Panga Drops, nor have any of my friends in Nicaragua gotten COVID. And there are good reasons for it.

Nicaragua has taken COVID seriously. Maybe it's their concern for their citizens, or maybe it's understanding the limits of their healthcare system. Regardless, they've taken important steps to minimize the affects of the pandemic.

One regards entry. To get into Nicaragua you need to get tested for COVID, have negative result and send it to the airline (along with their form at least 36 hours before your flight. Your test must have been taken no more than 72 hours before your flight. Then you need to present your original test results to the airline when you check in for your flight. So:

1. Get COVID test (PCR swab test) no more than 72 hours before arrival in Nicaragua.

2. Email result with the airline's form to the airline at least 36 hours before flight.

3. Bring hard copy of test result with you to the airport.

What this all means is that you need to get tested and send your results to the airline in a LESS than 36-hour window, because you have to allow for flight time. Avianca spells it all out for you here.

Then, when you leave you need to get another test to return to the US. There is only one testing site and that's in Managua at the Ministry of Health. Appointments are from 8:30am - 10:30am, Monday-Saturday. It costs $150. Make your appointment online here. You need to have the test within 72 hours of boarding the flight, and you probably don't want to waste three surf days in Managua for before your flight, so make plans. If you have a morning flight, plan on getting a hotel room at the airport, because the tests are done in the morning and you'll miss your flight. If your flight is in the afternoon or evening you can head to Managua early in the morning, take the test and have the result in time to fly out that afternoon. If you use a driver like Mr. Ow he will help you arrange everything.

US EMBASSY TRAVEL ADVISORY

It seems the US State Department doesn't want you to go to Nicaragua. They currently have Nicaragua on the "Level 4: Do Not Travel" list. Yes, they give some good advice. But in my opinion (and every other American I know who has been to Nicaragua this past year), "Do Not Travel" is overdoing it. Here's a link to the warning. You decide for yourself.

Mechapa - Northwestern Nicaragua

2016-09-25T22:47:00.001-07:00

Mechapa left and right barrels in northwestern Nicaragua. No one out, as usual.

Mechapa is the northernmost surf spot on the Pacific side of Nicaragua. It’s also the furthest from the Managua airport and everything else. Maybe why it's also possibly the least crowded surf spot in Nicaragua.

Mechapa is awesome, and it has yet to be really discovered, so get up there now! There is more quality beach breaks than nearly any other beach in Nicaragua, with everything from grinding tubes to mellow A-frames, and no one out. There’s also a rivermouth break. And no one out - check out the video and you'll see. Waves as good as The Boom/Aposentillo, but NO ONE OUT.

There’s a great place to stay called the Redwood Beach Resort (the name makes you think of Oregon, also way up north) right on the beach and right in front of excellent surf (RBRMechapa.com). It's a nice place, but you can get rooms for under $100/night. Rich, the chef, surfs – he’s about the only surfer in the area – and the owners are great folks. Mechapa itself is a fishing village, and there are nice waves breaking right out front of where the pescadores launch their pangas. You can probably get some lodging with a local family there and save a bunch of cords.

Most of the drive to Mechapa is pretty easy as the Pan America highway north of Managua is in good condition, it’s mostly a straight line, and there are not many reasons to stop. (Except to gawk at volcanoes.)

Good, uncrowded surf in front of the fishing village of Mechapa, Nicaragua.

Baja's Punta Santo Domingo

2016-09-25T21:02:00.002-07:00

If you are good with a drive to Scorpion Bay, maybe an excursion to Punta Santo Domingo is worth it.

It's amazing how far surfers will travel to get away from crowds, only to find crowds and mostly mediocre waves. Baja is loaded with uncrowded surf and better than mediocre waves, and it's not nearly as far. Punta Santo Domingo is one of those areas.

Punta Santo Domingo is off the beaten track, but not by that much, because it's a hop, skip and a jump from (the crowds of) Scorpion Bay. It's an exposed, south-facing beach and reef break that needs south or good west swells. It's a bay, so you get surf off a point and inside.

It's near San Juanico, AKA Scorpion Bay. Check the map; it’s not hard to find. It’s the next big point north of the Scorpion Bay series of points. To get there, drive out to Cadeja and follow the road west a few miles until you reach the arroyo with some structures, AKA La Ballena. Head SW to the point. Check it out when you tire of Scorpion Bay’s crowds; it's worth your time, assuming you like exploring the deserted deserts of Baja and its wondrous coast.

Tamarindo Rivermouth - Crocodile Territory

2016-07-24T09:56:00.000-07:00

Surfer Jonathan Betker, 59, on his way to the hospital after crocodile attack in Tamarindo Rivermouth

I don't go to Tamarindo Beach in Costa Rica as much as I used to, but when I go I surf outside the estero (rivermouth) or head north to Playa Grande. When I surf the rivermouth, I paddle out from the beach, not from the edge of the river. And when I go to Playa Grande, I never, ever wade or paddle across the estero. I drive around or I don't go.

The Tamarindo River/Rio Tamarindo is known to have a lot of crocodiles. It's not a guess, hope or rumor. It's a fact. Go up river and you'll see them. Actually, you don't even have to do that, because for years now they've been seen in the wooded areas next to the river not that far from homes.

Don't get me wrong, I've thought about it. I've waded out about five to ten yards, then got spooked and turned around. I've cursed myself for being a coward. But I've just never done it. I am afraid of crocodiles. A lot.

This poor guy has more balls than I do, but now he has one less leg - I feel really bad for him. According to The Tico Times, this is the third attack in as many years. Like sharks, fish and most other animals, crocodiles like to eat at dawn and dusk. Becker was heading across at 7am.

Lastly, think about this: They are pretty sure they found the guilty croc, and he's not being relocated or exterminated. So he's there waiting for you. Be careful.

UPDATE

A week later and Becker is still recuperating in the hospital, having been transferred to a private hospital in San Jose. He was initially taken to the hospital in Liberia where his leg was amputated below the knee. He is said to be in stable condition and receiving antibiotics.

Officials install crocodile danger warning signs - "Do not swim. Do not feed."

Can You Prevent Mosquito Bites?

2015-05-15T10:33:00.002-07:00

Mosquitoes kill more people in 4 minutes than sharks do in a year.

The rainy season is approaching in Central America and with it comes the onslaught of mosquitos. Since mosquitos are responsible for many killer and crippling diseases - including malaria, yellow fever, dengue fever, encephalitis and the new import from Africa, chikungunya - preventing their bites is a life saver.

Some believe you can prevent mosquito bites if you eat certain foods. But is that true? For example, does eating garlic a mosquito repellent? No. Not according to the science. There has yet to be a food that humans can ingest that is scientifically proven to prevent mosquito bites.

In fact, your attraction to mosquitos is likely to be more hereditary than anything else. This is the science as reported in a recent Men's Health article. Eat all the garlic you want, it won't work. Sure, there are some cultures and families that eat more garlic than others, which may be where this and other food-based mosquito repellent stories originated, but the cause appears to be genes and not food.

The best defense is DEET, available at most drug and grocery stores. It cuts off mosquitos' ability to smell, so they can't even find you. Off!, the brand with oil of lemon eucalyptus works well, too, as will any repellent with that ingredient. In fact, nearly any off-the-shelf mosquito repellent works better than garlic.

BEER KILLS?

While there are no foods that repel mosquitoes, there is at least one that attracts: Beer, so say French researchers.

Since mosquitos dine mostly around sunrise and sunset, that's when you need the most protection. There is no better protection than the combination of DEET and clothing - wear long sleeves, pants (not shorts) and shoes, and spray everything!

Curing Swimmer's Ear (Otitis) on the Road

2014-11-29T10:41:00.004-08:00

Surf wax as part of a first aid kit

Swimmer's ear (Otitis) will cut your surf trip short if you don't fix the problem ASAP.

THE PROBLEM - DIAGNOSIS

You first notice the problem with a bit of itching, swelling and pain in and around one of your ears. Next you'll probably lose some hearing, so you'll figure your ear canal is clogged or blocked, and you'll be right. It's infected and swollen. You have Swimmer's Ear or Otitis, an infection of the outer ear canal. It's the result of a lot of water time, with some of that water getting deep into your ear canal, staying there and creating an environment for a bacterial infection.

THE WRONG SOLUTION

You'll possibly try to fix it by jamming a Q-tip in to clear out ear wax, because you figure that's the problem - get rid of the wax and let the water drain. Part of that thinking is correct, but not the Q-tip part, as all you'll do is push the wax deeper into your ear, exacerbating the problem.

WHO IS MORE VULNERABLE

You may be from colder climates, surfing mainly in colder water, and already experiencing Surfer's Ear (exostosis), a narrowing of the outer ear canal brought on by the body's reaction over a period of time to the cold water entering the ear. Most serious California surfers have Surfer's Ear to some degree. This writer has 75% blockage in one ear and 50% in the other. If you have Surfer's Ear you are much more likely to suffer Swimmer's

SOLUTIONS

Many cold-water surfers use some sort of ear-drying aid, such as Mack's Dry-and-Clear, to help prevent ear infections. And it would be wise to bring some Mack's along on surf trips. But who remembers to pack that? Just like Mack's Earplugs, used by cold-water surfers to prevent exostosis and other problems. Who remembers?

The smart ones do. The rest of us figure we'll deal with our problems on the road.

But it's not that easy when you don't speak the local language well or they don't carry the products you're used to. So here's what to do in most countries, whether you know the language or not, and whether or not they have the products you would use back home.

TREATMENT - REPAIRING YOURSELF

So you got Swimmer's Ear. Here's what you do.

1. Buy alcohol (not liquor, but antiseptic alcohol from any pharmacy - and don't bother asking for isopropyl), white vinegar and glycerin. They're all cheap.

2. Start clearing the blockage by dripping about 3 drops of glycerin into your bad ear and let it seep in for about 5 minutes. You need that blockage to start breaking up to get at the infection. You can do this about 3 times each day until you're cured.

3. After the glycerin has drained from your ear, mix about a tablespoon of alcohol and white vinegar 50/50 and pour it into your ear, making sure to get it as deep as possible. Let it sit for 5 minutes, then drain and let it dry.

4. Before you go to bed that night do the glycerin thing again, and sleep so your ear can drain.

5. The next morning you want to surf, right? OK, do the alcohol/vinegar treatment and let it dry. Then put a wax earplug over your ear to prevent water from getting in. DO NOT shove the plug into your ear! You'll cause more problems. The wax is to COVER your ear canal, not fill it. Where will you get wax? Surf wax! But you'll need to warm it, so fill a bowl with hot water and put the wax in the bowl. That will soften it enough to apply to your outer ear. Cool wax works better than tropical, of course.

That's it! After your surf, do the alcohol/vinegar treatment. If your ear is still blocked do the 3 drops of glycerin. This is your daily routine until the pain and swelling goes away.

It works. Believe me. After 16 days straight days of water time in Nicaragua I got my first Swimmer's Ear outside the US. No Mack's anywhere, and the drug stores don't carry Debrox, isopropyl or ear drops. But they carry the key ingredients needed to do the same things. And I cured my Swimmer's Ear in 1 day, not even missing a single session.

The Nicaragua Canal

2014-07-10T21:51:00.002-07:00

This is it. Brito. The Pacific side of the Nicaragua Canal that China is building for $50 billion. At least that's what the news media has been telling us. If you talk with the locals, they're split. A lawyer friend says no way, ain't gonna happen. Local villagers and the military here in Brito say it's a done deal. The government already took their property, or so they say. Carlos Pellas bought everything else. (Very believable.)

We went to check it out. The beach is remote. There's a village here, Brito, but more of a river-fishing/shrimping village than a traditional fishing village, as there are no pangas. That's because the wind is stronger here than probably anywhere else in Central America. It doesn't feel like Nicaragua, at least not the Pacific side. Inside the Rio Brito it feels more Caribbean. As you get to the ocean it feels more like one of the less frequented Costa Rica river mouth beaches. The wind blows so hard here that the headland has no vegetation other than cacti - it's Baja-like, and unlike any of the beaches nearby.

Regardless, to turn this into a port city is, well, sad. We all know what will happen. It will be more of a Puntarenas than a thriving port. Yes, it will create jobs. But so does tourism, and Nicaragua is on a tear. Encouraged, the tourism development will yield much better results than a Panama Canal competitor. And it doesn't take much encouragement, as Nicaragua tourism has been growing with no help from the government whatsoever.

This Nicaragua Canal doesn't require government help, either. They're just stepping aside, after lining their pockets, of course. All of the investment is coming from China. So they hope, and we don't.

It's easy to sit back as a surfer/tourist/gringo landowner and condemn this sort of development. We're not looking for a basic job. We want the idealized surfer life. But Nicaragua might do itself a favor to study Costa Rica a bit more closely, because their southern neighbor has done quite well leaning toward sustainable tourism and away from short-term industrialization. Nicaragua might consider that this canal is more about a 19th or 20th century-style economy growth plan as opposed to a 21st century model. A fiftieth of that $50b invested in communications infrastructure - aka, internet access - would push Nicaragua way ahead and create an environment that would attract business in the form of expat/distance workers that would pull revenues in from their home countries without destroying Nicaragua's greatest assets, it's natural beauty.

To turn Nicaragua into a canal is absurd and pitiful.

Boca Coronado / Playa Tortuga / Ojachal

2013-03-25T19:52:00.000-07:00

Boca Coronado. North side, aka Playa Tortuga. Low tide, shoulder-high swell, but this wave is overhead. View from Lookout at Turtle Beach hotel.

I just got out of crowded, mediocre surf at 3rd Point Malibu. The water is 56 degrees, so I was wearing a full suit, booties, and because I'm a sissy, a hood. The whole time I was out all I could think of was Boca Coronado, and how many times I've driven past empty surf there. Good surf.

Everyone wants to know where there’s good to excellent uncrowded surf, but once found, most won’t paddle out. Not unless there's at least one other guy out already. Case in point: Boca Coronado. Even though the waves can be seen from the highway, and access is easy, no one surfs here, and it will be years before it even starts to resemble crowded, if ever. If you do paddle out you’ll probably wish there were other guys out just to help get a read on the place, as it’s a big playing field with waves everywhere, but the best are on both sides of the river/estuary mouth.

View this video on YouTube. You'll get a closer look.

Boca Coronado, aka Playa Tortuga, is a big rivermouth/estuary that catches lots of swell and is never flat. On the north side of the rivermouth you’ll find long lefts with great shape, and good rights, too. On the south side you’ll find long rights, and good lefts, too. While those are the main breaks, there are waves all over the place. The waves break outside, and on big days it’s a long paddle, but no worse than paddling up the point at Boca Barranca or Pavones, except you’ll have more duck diving and likely bigger waves. The easiest access is through the Playa Tortuga turtle reserve. This area is actually called Ojachal.

Up the hill from the beach and the highway is a nice little German-owned hotel with spectacular views of the surf called The Lookout at Turtle Beach. A nice place for the non-surfing partner or family with a good (but a bit pricey, for Costa Rica) restaurant, bar with satellite TV, free wi-fi and pool. Some of the rooms are small, so ask to see the room first. Villas Gaia is much closer to the surf, down near the beach itself, and a very good option as well. As a walk-to-surf option, it’s better.

Playa Astillero, Nicaragua

2013-03-12T19:07:00.000-07:00

Astillero near the rivermouth on a small, offshore day. Mid-tide. Five Frenchmen out.

Most approach Playa Astillero from the south, typically coming from a crowded Popoyo or an idyllic Las Plumerias, so one encounters the entire bay stretching from headland to headland, with fishing boats lined up on the beach in the middle. Out in the bay you see bluebirds breaking, if the swell is big enough, but that’s way out and more easily enjoyed via tow-in. Looking to the north end of the beach you’ll see a rivermouth, and the surf. The easiest way to get to it is to drive on the beach right up to the rivermouth. Obviously, you’ll need to watch the tides, if you don’t want to lose your truck to the sea, especially since the best surf is on mid, upcoming tide. The waves are fun beachbreak, fast and a bit walled, with better lefts than rights. The crowd here is mellow, with those escaping other crowds, along with the surf schools, so it’s a nice break from Popoyo and Santana. If you cross over the rivermouth to the north and walk (or drive, many do) around the headland to the north you get to Lance’s Left, which is usually smaller.

The day before. Small, a little muddier on the lower tide. Fun left running toward the rivermouth.

Playa Astillero itself isn’t a great place to spend time. There are some cheap places to get a room or eats, but it’s a bit of a hardcore fishing village that’s not too welcoming for pasty foreigners. But if you want to buy fish, this is the place. Find the boats and you’ll see the fishing coop with the fresh catch packed in crushed ice and ready for the market. Or your frying pan. Fresh enough for sashimi. Cheap enough for a surf trip.

Playa Guiones or Playa Nosara, as you wish

2013-03-09T05:41:00.001-08:00

North end, early morning, low tide, 10 knot offshore winds, medium-small swell. And yes, a grainy iPhone photo. You can tell by the water color that it's chilly. The water is probably about 68-70 degrees. The offshores have been strong for early March, so while there's early season south swell, the offshores and cold water are keeping the crowds down.

There are quite a few surf shops in this little surf vacation village, and more to come, I’m sure. Coconut Harry’s is probably the best-known. Proprietor Henry Heinke is a colorful character, and you’ll see him most days down at the surf. Another good shop is the Nosara Surf Shop, down the main road to the beach and across the street from the Casa Tucan Hotel. They have a good supply of boards, at least 60 rentals and about 50 new, along with all the surf gear and t-shirts you expect from a real surf shop. Add the Safari Surf School and ding repair to that. As said, there are a bunch of surf shops, so take your pick.
There are no hotels right in front of the surf in Playa Nosara or Playa Guiones, but camping is permitted as with most of Costa Rica. The hotels are scattered about in the woods near the beach and up the hills, and you can walk to the surf pretty easily from most of them. Hotel Playas de Nosara (recently renamed the Nosara Beach Hotel) sits atop the point at the north end of Guiones giving you a great view of the surf as well as fairly easy access. But this hotel seems to be always under construction (for over 20 years!), so meals and other services can be spotty, and the place is, well, a wreck. But the owner makes up for the mess with his hospitality and nuttiness. It’s weird but cool. But if bugs bug you, go elsewhere.
One of the most popular hotels walking distance from the beach is the Harbor Reef Lodge. Like most hotels in this area, the Harbor Reef Lodge is set back from the beach in the woods. The rooms are spacious and nice with big bathrooms, hardwood floors and great air conditioning. The whole property attracts a friendly group of people - families, couples, fishermen and especially surfers – this place is for the sociable. Owners Randy and Brenda opened the Harbor Reef Lodge in 1997, moving to Costa Rica from Catalina Island off the coast of Southern California. Randy doesn’t surf, but his sons do. Randy’s a fisherman, and Brenda has developed the gift shop into a mini surf supply center, with rental boards, rash guards, leashes, wax, repair kits and more. In 2003 they added a general store (beer), so any supplies you need (beer) you can find right there, including beer. They also have a real estate business and manage house rentals in the area, like the Casa Cortez that’s up the hill, walking distance from the surf, and a great place to get some peace and quiet.

Guiones is one of the most consistent breaks in Costa Rica, or anywhere. There’s always surf here, and it’s usually pretty fun. Lots of beach break peaks and a point at the north end that breaks occasionally. The surf can get big, and it’s usually bigger and better as you head to the north part of the beach. The waves at the south end are generally smaller and the shape isn’t as good, especially the far south end where the reefs start. For its size it’s a fairly forgiving wave, especially on higher tides, but when it gets big it’s still big, so beginners should be careful when the surf picks up. Like most beach breaks, the shape gets better as the tide comes up; low tide isn’t very good.

Speaking of beginners… Guiones has been getting more crowded due to the consistent surf and the new hotels catering to surfers, but mostly because of the surf schools. There’s a surf school every five feet, and those surf schools ensure no shortage of kooks in the water. When it’s bigger they get pushed to the inside, but their goal is to catch waves, so they’re everywhere.

There are no hotels right in front of the surf in Playa Nosara or Playa Guiones, but camping is permitted as with most of Costa Rica. The hotels are scattered about in the woods near the beach and up the hills, and you can walk to the surf pretty easily from most of them. Hotel Playas de Nosara (recently renamed the Nosara Beach Hotel) sits atop the point at the north end of Guiones giving you a great view of the surf as well as fairly easy access. But this hotel seems to be always under construction (for over 20 years!), so meals and other services can be spotty, and the place is, well, a wreck. But the owner makes up for the mess with his hospitality and nuttiness. It’s weird but cool. But if bugs bug you, go elsewhere.

One of the most popular hotels walking distance from the beach is the Harbor Reef Lodge. Like most hotels in this area, the Harbor Reef Lodge is set back from the beach in the woods. The rooms are spacious and nice with big bathrooms, hardwood floors and great air conditioning. The whole property attracts a friendly group of people - families, couples, fishermen and especially surfers – this place is for the sociable. Owners Randy and Brenda opened the Harbor Reef Lodge in 1997, moving to Costa Rica from Catalina Island off the coast of Southern California. Randy doesn’t surf, but his sons do. Randy’s a fisherman, and Brenda has developed the gift shop into a mini surf supply center, with rental boards, rash guards, leashes, wax, repair kits and more. In 2003 they added a general store (beer), so any supplies you need (beer) you can find right there, including beer. They also have a real estate business and manage house rentals in the area, like the Casa Cortez that’s up the hill, walking distance from the surf, and a great place to get some peace and quiet.

One of the places that’s highly rated on TripAdvisor.com is Guardino Tropicale. That rating is very well-deserved. Swiss expat Marcel and his Columbian wife Miriam are incredible hosts with a property to match. Right off the main road, but tucked into the hillside, it’s secluded while being convenient. The rooms are clean, comfortable and well-maintained, with nice patios for relaxing, the internet is strong, and the restaurant serves excellent food. Make that restaurants – plural. The uphill restaurant has the bar and serves dinners. The downhill restaurant, next to the swimming pool (lap swimming pool!) serves breakfast only. The perfect hotel for this surfer/writer. Recommended for families or couples or anyone except those looking for a busy surf bar scene.

Punta Banco - That's right, banco!

2013-03-06T13:41:00.001-08:00

This peak has both rights and lefts at the west end of Playa Banco. Not a great day, but Pavones was about shoulder high and here it's overhead. Mid-tide. Wind about 4 knots out of the west. No one out.

Banco is Spanish for bank, and one visit to Punta Banco and you'll feel like you robbed one, especially after fighting the crowds at Pavones or wishing you had an 11-foot board to surf a small day.

About 8km south of Pavones. Despite the name, there’s no point, at least not like Pavones, but there are fun reefs and beachbreaks with lefts and rights (yes, rights!) that break bigger than Pavones but without the crowds. When it’s small at Pavones or you’re sick of the crowd or sick of surfing perfect point break surf or you’re dying for a right, Punta Banco is the call. Head west out of Pavones until you reach a small town with a soccer field. Just out front and to the right are good waves, rights and lefts, and if you head further west you’ll find two more main peaks, the first with good rights and the second with good lefts. You’ll see waves all along this stretch, so it’s not only easy to find waves, it’s just as easy to find empty waves.

Yes, that's a right breaking down the beach about the middle of Punta Banco. This right is consistent with good shape. A small day, mid-tide, slight wind out of the west. No one out.

There are quite a few places to stay in and around Punta Banco, from cabinas to eco-lodges, or stay in or near Pavones as it’s not that far. Stay at the Ponderosa and you’re partway there. Tiskita Jungle Lodge is closer and Rancho Burica is at the west end with waves right out front.

Lefts at west end of Punta Banco. The outside wave is a couple of feet overhead. On this same day Pavones was about shoulder high. Mid-tide, slight west wind. One guy out, but you can't see him as he's way outside waiting for a set.

Penas Blancas Border Crossing

2013-03-02T20:25:00.001-08:00

First, remind me not to bring a longboard when doing the Penas Blancas border crossing. Even if I'm heading to Pavones.

Today I did the Penas (pronounced "pain-ass") Blancas crossing - first time. I'm heading to Pavones from Nicaragua with my buddy Bobito Sancho who's dreamed of surfing Pavones for 20 years. I've been there before, and am quite familiar with its pluses and minuses, two of the latter being the crowds and the nature of the wave (needs swell), so I'm bringing a longboard this time.

The border crossing is fairly simple if you're not bringing a vehicle, and since we're renting cars, we can't anyhow. On the Nicaragua side, we paid a coyote about $10 and he took care of our visa and passport stamps. And dropping the Hilux off at Budget was a breeze.

But lugging my 9'2" Yater across the border no-mans-land, then through the 100-person, serpentine line on the Costa Rica side was a bitch, due in no small part to the heat, and due in large part to the longboard. What was I thinking? Once through the Costa Rica customs - don't forget to bring your airline ticket or rental car reservation or something showing you are actually going to depart the land of pura vida - there's another long walk to the National/Alamo car rental.

No coyotes to help on the Costa Rica side.

I was lucky. I got the whole ordeal taken care of in about 90 minutes - excellent time, actually. We'll see how the return goes. And yes, I'll probably have that Yater under my arm.

Packing for Central America Surf Trip

2013-02-27T11:10:00.001-08:00

Let the fun begin!

No matter how much surf travel experience you may have, departure day is always spent in a busy, nervous, anxious, state of adrenaline rush. This is due to the anticipation of good, uncrowded surf; the hurry to get last-minute jobs finished so you leave with a clear conscience (never possible); and most importantly, the only fear worse than a pintail-first sucking over the falls: forgetting to pack something important. As I write this I'm packing for a 2-week trip to Nicaragua and Costa Rica, so this fun is fresh in my mind. I’m sure I will forget something important, which wouldn’t be so bad except that I use my own checklist that I've been "perfecting" for 20 years.

You really don’t need much beyond your trunks and a board, assuming that you are good at and comfortable with leeching off of your buddies. Otherwise, like a good Boy Scout (gay or straight), you will want to be prepared. So in no particular order, let's get packing.

Airline tickets: Or the receipt printout from your online order, because no one uses tickets anymore. Sometimes I carry mine around in my backpack for a week before I go just to make sure I don’t forget them. If you are going paperless and getting your eticket at the airport, don’t forget the credit card you used to make the purchase. Some airlines won’t give you your eticket without you having the purchasing credit card in your possession.

Passport: You are required to have a passport to get into any country, and it must be valid (not expire) for 90 days following your entrance. There was a time when you could travel with your birth certificate and your driver’s license, but that ended April 30, 2003. Old-timers may tell you that you don’t need a passport, but don’t believe them. A good idea is to also bring a copy of your passport. Whenever possible give policemen and others who need to see your passport the copy. Passports are valuable and go for a good price on the black market, so they get stolen.

Don’t wait until the last minute to apply for a passport; they are issued by a government bureaucracy. Check the State Department’s web site.

Surfboards: Since really big waves are rare in most surf travel, you most likely will not need a ten foot Brewer gun. But you may luck into some eight foot waves, so you would not want to be stuck with only your 5’6” fish. Bring your small wave board, whatever that may be, and bring your board for six foot barrels, just in case. Basic rule of thumb: bring the board(s) you have the most fun on, and a step-up.

Renting Surfboards: These days, you don’t even need to pack a board as rentals are fairly convenient. Most popular destinations have tons of longboards, mostly epoxy, and the selection of shortboards has gotten surprisingly good. Considering the hassles of packing and carrying boards along with the baggage fees the airlines charge, rentals are not a bad way to go, especially if you are a novice.

Fins and hardware: If you removed the fins to pack your boards, don’t forget to pack them along with the hardware (key or screwdriver) for securing them. Pack with your boards as you won’t need fins if your board bag gets lost.

Clothing: You might consider packing or wearing one respectable-looking outfit (long pants, a “non t-shirt” shirt, shoes, socks), because you never know when you might need it. The world is not fair and book is judged by its cover, especially in foreign countries. At the very least you might get better treatment by airline employees, especially when you need favors. (There isn’t always a fee for surfboards as checked baggage.) At worst, you could find yourself in front of a judge. Otherwise, all you will need are trunks, t-shirts, and sandals. Also pack or wear a long-sleeved shirt for cool nights (rare), overly air conditioned airplanes and to fend off mosquitoes.

Beach towel: The hotel towels aren’t big enough to blow your sister's nose. And beach towels make good board-packing material anyhow.

Wax: You can buy wax in Central America, but it costs twice as much as at home and shops are not always convenient. Bring warm, tropical and base coat. You will need base wax if you decided to strip the wax from your board(s) before packing. Or just use base coat as tropical. Plan on one to two bars a week. You may want to double that for your buddy and other “bro’s.” (The only thing worse than a shoulder-hopper is one of those “hey bro, got some wax” guys who never, ever, have any wax. I save old bars of cold water wax just for those jokers.) And bring a wax comb too. If it turns out you brought too much wax, leave your leftovers with the locals. Wax is expensive for them.

Extra leash or two: (Assuming you already packed one with your board.) A spare in case you break yours, and the second extra leash for your buddy who never brings wax.

Ding repair kit: Bring a kit and sandpaper (sandpaper sponges pack well) for the little dings. If you are going to remote spots or plan on being more self-sufficient, bring the whole kit—fiberglass cloth, fiberglass roving, razor blade, sanding resin, catalyst, masking tape, 60 and 100 grit sandpaper—for gashes and broken fins. Or just pick up one of the Quick Fix packs that have everything. There really is no need to pack much repair stuff, since there are shops and ding repair joints nearly everywhere now, especially near the more crowded areas. Now, after all that, know that airport security has been confiscating resin and other flammable liquids from luggage, but that's more on the return visit than outbound.

Duct tape: Quite a bit lighter than a ding repair kit. If you are traveling in a pack, have one guy bring the tape and another the ding repair kit.

Soft racks (or foam tubing) and bungee cords and cinch straps (good ones): Some rental cars come with racks, but none have straps. The soft racks or tubing will be handy once you’ve unpacked your boards, but they won’t handle board bags. Cinch straps are for your packed boards from and to the airport. Bungees are for the anal guys who need even more security. Know that the rental car racks are bare metal with no cushioning for surfboards. Either be prepared to tape spare towels (they will get muddy from road muck) around the racks, or bring your own soft racks, foam tubing (secure them with tie wraps) or rack pads.

Pack soft racks, cinch straps and bungee cords in your board bag. If the airline loses your boards your straps may as well go along for the ride.

Trunks: Two to three. If you bring only one pair you’ll rip ’em, lose ’em, or both. And with a few pairs you will always have dry boardshorts for walking around.

Sunglasses: Cheapies

Hats: Two—A trucker cap to look cool and a wide-brimmed hat to keep the brutal sun from roasting you. If you are fair-skinned you should look into one of the many surfing caps designed to wear in the water. This goes double if you do a boat trip. I’ve seen many end up with blistered lips after the Witches boat trip. Not only is that painful, but you can forget about extra-curricular activities for awhile as you’ll look like a leper. (Not that it stopped or even slowed one good friend from diving right into the Del Rey. What people won’t do for “love” and money!)

Swiss army knife: Pack in your checked luggage. Airport Security will not let you carry it on the plane. If your knife doesn’t have pliers, pack one of those nifty multi-tools, too.

Spanish-English dictionary

Flashlight and extra batteries: There’s a shortage of electric power in Central America, and sometimes there is none at night. Don’t forget extra batteries.

Sunblock lotion: Lots - figure an ounce/day. You will quickly learn to appreciate it. Buy the cheap stuff for your body (and the no-wax buddy). Buy the expensive stuff for your face. The cheap stuff stings your eyes more, ruining the first hour of every session. Look for waterproof, rubproof, sweatproof, UVA and UVB protection. Wear a long sleeved rash guard and you’ll save on sunblock. You’ll also get less grease on your surfboard. Get sunblock chapstick too.

Rash guard(s): For the sun, not wetsuit rash. Pack two since they are light. Extra t-shirts work, too. Long sleeve rash guards are best. As mentioned above, you will save on sunscreen (which only lasts an hour or so anyhow), you’ll get into the water quicker (since you’ll have less area to cover) and you won’t suffer the embarrassment of having your buddy lather up your back. (Not that there’s anything wrong with it.)

Mosquito repellent: DEET (a chemical, not a brand) is the most effective mosquito repellent. At 33 percent concentration it lasts about 12 hours. Its warnings, however, include things like, “Do not use on face... Wash treated clothing... Avoid contact with plastics...” So it is a bit scary. Still, it’s the best. Avon Skin So Soft Bug Guard Plus IR3535 comes as a lotion that provides protection up to eight hours. The sell a version with SPF 30 sunscreen, so this is a good option for dawn patrols, but on your legs and arms only, not on your face. You don’t want this running into your eyes. Avon has no warnings about your skin peeling off like a boiled chicken—and it leaves your skin feeling oh-so-soft too! Long pants and shirtsleeves work well too, and should be your first line of protection during mosquito feeding hours, dawn and dusk.

Caladryl and cotton balls: You’re screwed. You’re gonna get eaten no matter what. Especially if you are out near the beach early near dawn or dusk.

Balls Protection: (Assuming you have a pair.) The boys down below don’t take well to warm, moist, tropical climates, where fungus and bacteria rule. Keeping your junk dry is the best protection. The appropriately-named Fresh Balls is about the best stuff you can get. It’s a lotion, but turns into a powder after application. Then there are the usual talc-like brands – Gold Bond, etc.

First aid kit: Start by buying Sick Surfers Ask the Surf Docs & Dr. Geoff, by Drs. Renneker, Starr and Booth. Read it, especially the part about cuts. Get cut in the ocean and you stand a good chance of getting an infection. The more you surf the more you will get cut. And you will be surfing more than usual, hopefully. These are the tropics where infections are more likely. Back to the kit... antibiotics (check with your doctor for a good prescription), antiseptic (betadine is good), Neosporin, a variety of waterproof bandages, gauze, lots of tape, snake bite kit (if you are camping), antibacterial soap, Advil, aspirin (for pain and fever), Pepto Bismol, tweezers (to pull out urchin spines and pieces of fiberglass), Q-tips for cleaning cuts and the sand out of your ears, hydrogen peroxide to pour into cuts, scissors and lots of soap and fresh water for washing out cuts. Or just get a surfer's first aid kit.

Unusual for a typical first aid kit, but invaluable for a surfer’s first aid kit is duct tape. I once took in a four-inch slice on the fourth day of a ten-day trip thanks to the reef at Cabo Blanco. The cut didn’t absolutely require stitches, but no typical bandage would have held it shut either. My buddy Mark Chapman recommended duct tape, and sure enough it worked. Trip saved.

Super Glue: In addition to the obvious uses, Super Glue works great as a bandage. Clean and disinfect the cut, then pull the skin together and glue it. It works like stitches.

Wetsuit: Wetsuits are practically unnecessary. But a vest or maybe a spring suit may be a good idea in the winter if you are going to Northern Costa Rica or SW Nicaragua where the water is cooler (but not cold). The cushioning of a vest is also handy if you get sore ribs. And if you never use ’em, they pack well as board protection.

Reef booties: A good idea if you decide to head for the reef breaks like Salsa Brava, Cabo Blanco and others. (In fact, for Salsa Brava you should consider a helmet.) Booties are also good in the event that you cut your foot and need to hold bandages in place and protect the wound from more damage.

Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard are most widely accepted. American Express is much better at solving disputes.

Cash: The lower-priced eateries and hotels don’t take credit cards or traveler’s checks. In fact, nobody really takes traveler’s checks, except banks, and the banks are a big hassle. You can find ATMs in the bigger cities, but they still are not as common as back home. You may want to exchange some money as soon as you arrive at the airport, despite the fact that they take American dollars nearly everywhere now. Don’t exchange in the U.S. as the rate is terrible.

More money: Bring more money than you think you will need (but don’t tell your “can I borrow some wax, bro?” buddy). Travel has a way of nickel-and-diming you to death. And if it’s flat you’ll want the extra dough for more cervezas.

Calculator: For calculating the exchange rate. Bring a small, cheap one that fits in your pocket. Or bring your phone with app.

Address book: You never know when you may need to call someone back home or send a postcard to your boss. Again, bring phone with contact info.

Driver’s license: International would be great but not required unless you are staying more than 90 days. (You wish.)

Hiking boots: Or something to hike in that can get wet, muddy and protect your ankles. Don’t pack them; pack your sandals instead. Wear your boots on the plane to save packing space and luggage weight. Hiking boots are not essential if you don’t plan on doing any hiking. But if you are walking at night in the rural areas much, they are good mosquito and snakebite protection.

Map: You can get free maps from the travel agencies and rental car companies, but you will want, need and appreciate the detail you will not find in those free maps. Spend a few bucks on a good map.

Compass: My bud Arnold Onaga insists that I put this on the list. No matter how good your map is, you’re gonna get lost. With the way the roads twist and turn I doubt that a compass will help keep you from losing your way, but at least it will get someone else actively involved in helping you try to get back on track. (Most importantly, Arn will now stop bugging me about the friggin’ compass.) Or GPS, of course.

T-shirts to give to the kids. One travel plan is to pack clothes you were going to give to charity, and leave them in hotel rooms as you wear them and travel around. You will lighten your load as you go, not have any dirty clothes to bring home and wash, and you’ll be doing a good deed.

Surf stickers: Kids like stickers so much they will stop you on the street for them. Stickers are like cash. Even the airport porters like them. Keep them handy for when you ask directions or other favors.

Camera: Or phone.

Binoculars: The breaks are often not easily visible. (Actually, this a luxury item.)

Energy Bars: While sodas and other places for cheap grinds are plentiful, they are not near every break, and you will want to surf the breaks where they are not (i.e., not crowded). Energy bars make a good dawn patrol breakfast since the eateries don’t open that early. Then again, bananas work great, they’re cheap and you can get them anywhere.

Books: Da Bull, Life over the Edge, and In Search of Captain Zero.

Tide chart: Available at www.crsurf.com.

Earplugs: You will be in the water a lot. An infection will ruin it. Go with Mack's.

Toilet paper: It’s not Huntington Pier; restrooms are few and far between, and those on the road often have none. Forget TP and you can always use your beach towel. Wet sand works too. Or you can pack toilet paper.

Paper and pen to write down directions and take notes in this book. Or bring a journal book and keep a diary and scrapbook of your trip. In time you’ll be glad you did.

Watch or alarm clock: So you don’t miss your flight back. Again, your phone has this feature.

Cell phone: For all the reasons mentioned before.

Sandwich bags and trash bags: Trash bags are good for wet or muddy clothes, and double as raincoats. Use sandwich bags to pack goop—sunscreen, insect repellent, K-Y, whatever your goop-thing is—so if a leak develops your bitchin Bad Boy tank top won’t get ruined.

Headphones, charger, and 3mm adaptor: The adaptor is for the car.

Airline tickets and passport: Just checking.

A final note on what to pack… You really don’t need to pack anything. You can buy it all when you get there if you want. So you really could travel light and buy as you go. Of course, shopping takes time you might rather spend surfing.

Baja Crime: Who to fear?

2013-02-08T10:42:00.001-08:00

Surfing nearby, but completely oblivious to the crime

My favorite time to hit Baja Norte is September/October, and have done so nearly every year for the past two decades, regardless of the crime warnings. As other Baja travelers know, once you cross the border stories of rampant crime all but disappear, seeming to be product of a bloodthirsty press in the US more than reality of Mexican life.

And here's a good example.

A few years back a drug cartel hit man was arrested in East Los Angeles and deported back to Mexico. When reading the story about how this guy executed 10 - two families, including a one year-old child - in El Sauzal, just north of Ensenada I got a sort of creepy feeling. The murders took place September 17, 1998. I was on a weeklong surf trip in the area within days of the murders, and I never heard a word of it. Was I that oblivious, or do we hear more up here than down there? By the time I got back to the US it was old news, so I wouldn't have heard anything here.

I think the reality is this: The crime is between the criminals. These murders, while including innocent family members, were drug cartel murders. Most surfers don't deal with the drug cartels, so most surfers have nothing to fear. Sure, there's still a lot of theft - always has been and probably always will be. But we don't have to worry about getting executed. Unless we drop in on the wrong local, and then it's deserved.

Ollie's Point, AKA Portrero Grande

2013-02-02T21:38:00.000-08:00

Video borrowed from our friends at Witches Rock Surf Camp, hosts of WRSC Surf Tours. Highly recommended!

Guanacaste is home to two of the best waves in Costa Rica, and the storied Ollie’s Point is one of them. It's one of the most difficult spots to reach - it's boat in or pick another spot - and there are no hotels or surf camps to give you the walk-to-surf option. Then, after taking the trouble to boat in, you'll likely find it crowded, and Ollie's doesn't hold a crowd well. But you’ll never have the complete Costa Rica surf experience without surfing Ollie's, so let's get on with it, because this is one of the funnest point breaks in the world.

Ollie's is an incredible right point at a rivermouth with fast, fun and semi-hollow waves that wrap down and into the cove forever. One of the best rights in Costa Rica, or anywhere for that matter. Best on low to mid tide, but that depends on the sand situation. With enough sand it can stay good on higher tides. There are a few rocks at the main take-off spot, otherwise there are no hazards. (Well, there are some sting rays near the beach and crocs in the rivermouth, but since you’ll arrive by boat you may never get that far.) There's also talk of surf off the left point at the south end of the bay, but I haven’t seen it break even on overhead days.

Ollie's breaks on any good southern hemi swell, so it's very consistent. For a good look at this wave check out Surfer magazine’s South of the Border video or Endless Summer 2.

As mentioned, the only way to get to Ollie’s is by boat (or seaplane, I guess) as there are no roads in. You can rent a boat from Playas del Coco (from San José about 270km or a 4-5 hour drive) or Playa Ocotal (a few kilometers down the road from Playas del Coco), or hook up with one of the guided trips from experienced outfits like Witches Rock Surf Camp, The Giuseppina and others. The hike in is humanly possible, as is anything else, but not recommended. If you do figure out how to get in you’ll find that there’s nothing there once you arrive at the break - no facilities of any kind (except those you’ll see floating offshore in the way of boats). To reserve a boat head down to the dock at Playas del Coco and ask around. But that's not necessary if you're staying at any of the hotels in Playa Grande or Tamarindo as any of them will hook you up. Know that the cheaper the fare, the less you get, like a smaller boat that beats you up in the wind chop and no food or beverages. Some trips include lunch, sodas and beer. Try to plan your boat in advance; it’s not a last-minute deal. The boats leave between 6:00am and 8:00am, so get set up the day before or sooner.

By the way, the typical boat trip to Ollie's includes Witches, so it's a full day of surfing two awesome breaks. Don't miss out if you ever get the opportunity!

And as always, get the full story with The Surfer's Guide to Costa Rica & SW Nicaragua, available at SurfTravelGear.com, Amazon, and your favorite surf shop.

2013 Surfboard Baggage Fee Comparison

2013-01-17T17:45:00.001-08:00

Surfboard travel bag fees go up, up and away! Surfer Magazine just posted an updated chart on board bag and surfboard fees for all of the airlines. It's a great resource.

Sexy Brit Surfer Girl Reviews Baja

2012-08-27T13:55:00.003-07:00

I love how she says bah-ja. You can get the book she purrs about at SurfTravelGear.com.

Brit Robot Reviews The Costa Rica & Nicaragua Guide

2012-08-27T13:45:00.000-07:00

Love this review by the sexy surfing brit robot. Good stuff! If you actually want to get the book, you can go to SurfTravelGear.com.

Baja Surf Hazard: Lobster Traps

2012-08-12T12:15:00.001-07:00

Stay far, far away from these guys.

Baja has an ocean hazard for surfers that’s rarely thought of or mentioned: Lobster traps. They’re all over Baja Norte, with many of them just outside the normal line-ups, so when the big swells come and the line-ups move further out and the lobster traps get washed further in, becoming a real danger.

The actual danger is in getting your leash tangled in the trap’s line that tethers it to its buoy, but you can get tangled with the trap itself, too. If you’ve ever had your leash caught on a rock or reef you know how difficult it is to get to the surface with the currents keeping you held under, or to even reach down to your ankle to undo the strap.

From the earliest days of surf leashes, this has been a problem. The Surfer’s Journal article “Tethered: The Advent of the Surf Leash” talks of what may be the first surf leash-related drowning. In it Bruce Wood, creator of the Zing String surf leash, recounts how a surfer named Gary Decker got his leash tangled in a lobster trap and drowned out at Tijuana Sloughs. San Diego area surfers are well aware of the dangers posed by lobster traps, with multiple drownings and close calls over the years. Doug Werner, author of Surfer’s Start-up, claims in his lobster traps warning that “Every year, surfers get their leashes caught in them and drown.” Every year is a lot.

Scorpion Bay

2012-06-14T10:17:00.000-07:00

The unofficial welcome sign.

It may only be #36 on Surfer Magazine's list of the world's best 100 waves, but there may be more stuff on the Internet about Scorpion Bay than any other spot. One of the best, though, is this infamous series of over 200 posts resulting from the "definning" of CJ Nelson and his crew in 2007. Funny stuff.

Update on the Spot Connect

2012-06-10T11:29:00.000-07:00

More on this product here at SurfMoto.

Also refer to the original post.

Baja: Gas From the Can

2012-06-03T17:53:00.003-07:00

Fishing village gas from the can. Baja.

So many worry about getting gas from the can in Baja, as well as pretty much anywhere south of the US border. I've had more problems with gas from the pump than I have with gas from the can.

Here's more on the subject, and a recent experience with bad gas. Fortunately, this one was with a motorcycle, where it's much easier to remedy some of these problems. Enjoy.

As always, get more Baja surf travel info at The Surfer's Guide to Baja, available at SurfTravelGear.com. Also visit TheSurfersGuides.com.

Baja: The Salt Flats Road to Scorpion Bay

2012-06-03T12:56:00.003-07:00

Taking a break on the salt flats road to Scorpion Bay

When taking the north road to Baja's legendary San Juanico, better known as Scorpion Bay, the key to minimizing damage to your vehicle, including flat tires, as well as minimizing time is to find the road through the salt flats. This is basically the second leg of the long north road in. The first leg leaves San Ignacio and ends at the fishing village Laguna San Ignacio, assuming you go that far, barely missing the turn due south about 2 miles before the village. At this point you're still on a gravel road, having traversed sand and salt flats earlier.

Coming out of the fishing villages - Laguna San Ignacio and La Base - you come to a fork, and a choice: The gravel road on your left or the road heading into the salt flats (pointing due south) to your right. Go right. If you are lucky enough to see people on the road, just ask for directions to El Datil, which is the fishing village at the end of this second leg. The fork itself is at GPS 113.07 and 26.49.

Once on the salt flat road you can fly. It's straight and smooth and goes on forever. Whatever you do, though, don't leave the road. The sides of that road can be treacherous; you might find yourself up to your axles.

This whole area is so flat you can see the curve of the earth. It's really amazing.

Get more Baja surf travel info at The Surfer's Guide to Baja, available at SurfTravelGear.com. Also visit TheSurfersGuides.com.

Baja: Where to stay in Guerrero Negro - Don Gus

2012-06-03T12:30:00.003-07:00

Don Gus Motel in Guerrero Negro, Baja Sur

As mentioned in the previous post, Guerrero Negro is often the halfway overnight rest for the deep-into-Baja trips. There are a handful of decent motels and an RV park (Malarrimo), so finding a place to stay isn't usually a problem, except perhaps in the busy whale-watching season (mid winter). One of our favorites is the often-overlooked Don Gus Motel. It's off the main road, so it's better known by the locals than tourists, which is just fine by us.

More about Baja surf travel at TheSurfersGuides.com.

Baja Driving Distances

2012-06-01T11:52:00.001-07:00

Chart from Mexico On The Road In - OnTheRoadIn.com
(click for link)

Having just completed an LA-Cabo-LA trip, Baja driving distances are all too fresh.

It's often said to be a 2-day drive, spending the night in Guerrero Negro, but that's a simplification and not great advice. First, while Guerrero Negro is the border town for Baja Norte and Sur, it's not really midway. A quick look at Ontheroadin.com's chart puts GN at 459 miles from Tijuana, much less than halfway to Cabo, leaving you with an extra 100 miles the next day.

The next issue is traffic. The stretch between Colonet and San Quintin has become one long city drive, with tons of traffic, traffic lights and stop signs. It's not predictable.

Then there are the trucks on the mountain roads. Every time you get behind one you are slowed to less than 30 mph, and closer to 10. And there are trucks day and night. (And you know better than to drive at night.)

And construction. The good news is they have improved the roads quite a bit. The bad news is, they have a long way to go. Currently, the bigger construction zones are between Mulege and San Ignacio, making the lower leg that much slower.

And lastly, the military checkpoints are completely unpredictable. You'll hit about six, maybe more. Of course there's the unpredictability of your personal time for the inspection, but what takes more time is the inspection of those in front of you. The checkpoint guys don't care about the line or anyone's time. They are there to take as much time as they think is necessary and they are instructed to not be pressured by a line.

Advice: Plan for three days each way. Try to reach San Ignacio before dark. That improves the possibility of making it in two days, assuming you aren't stupid enough to drive at night, assuming there's enough daylight (not December 21) and assuming everything goes very well.

More about Baja surf travel at TheSurfersGuides.com.