Mike Esposito's Travel Blog

Back after a hiatus! Features from trip to Colombia in July 2025

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Thu, 29 Jan 2026 14:43:00 +0000

Cable car connecting Medellín with the Parque Arví on the outskirts of the city

I thought I had posted in 2025, but I was mistaken! Now to catch up, I have some photos from our last trip to Colombia last July. This was my 29th trip to Colombia in a 45-year period, and there are still plenty of attractions my family and I haven't seen. We spent most of our time in and around Bogotá but also took a five-day trip to Medellín to see sights we didn't get a chance to visit in 2024.

We continue to notice a greater influx of foreign visitors to Colombia than I recall from previous years. Maybe because we were doing more sightseeing in Medellín, we saw more of them there than in Bogotá. Enjoy!

Personalized Coke bottles for sale in a Bogotá supermarket. $3,500 pesos is a little less than a dollar.

An evidently well-fed dove at a wetlands preserve in Bogotá

The "Comuna 13" neighborhood, a popular tourist destination in Medellín

Dr. Catherine Bishop's new book "The World We Want" chronicles a special educational program from the Cold War era with high school students around the world

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Wed, 09 Oct 2024 10:14:00 +0000

Last Friday's launch of Dr. Catherine Bishop's book "The World We Want" at The Debs Center of the American University of Beirut in New York City (October 4, 2024) was great. This unique book describes a program called the World Youth Forum, which ran from 1947 to the early 1970s and was initiated by the defunct newspaper The New York Herald Tribune. It involved selecting high school students from all over the world, called "delegates," to attend schools in the New York metro area and live with host families for about three months. They later spoke on radio or television about their impressions of the United States (many videos of the TV programs are posted on YouTube and are making quite an impression). The paper's political and social connections ensured that they rubbed shoulders with celebrities and sometimes US presidents like Truman, Eisenhower, and JFK.

I was invited because I had interviewed a 1947 delegate from Ecuador named Susana Donoso, who was referenced twice in the book. (She is 94 years old and still sharp.) See my 2011 blog post of our interview at https://latin-caribbean-travelblog.blogspot.com/2011/12/susana-donoso-who-participated-in.html . My contribution was a tiny drop in the bucket, because besides her exhaustive research, Dr. Bishop contacted 300 delegates, or families of deceased delegates, from every corner of the globe.

My wife Adriana accompanied me and was as impressed as I was by the perceptive comments of the delegates present regarding the program and its impact on their lives. The youngest person in attendance participated in 1973, and the oldest in 1952 (roughly between 68 and 89 years of age).

More notes on language learning

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Mon, 23 Sep 2024 15:39:00 +0000

Fitting rooms rendered in Spanish in Bogotá, Colombia

On May 11, 2013, I wrote a post on language learning which you can find at https://latin-caribbean-travelblog.blogspot.com/2013/05/language-learning-in-class-and-on-your.html. Since that time, there are other lessons that I've acquired from experience - sometimes just observing how I react to a given situation - or reading that I've incorporated into my language learning. These are given in no particular order here.

If I feel an inner resistance to moving in a given direction, I don't struggle with it and try to force it to work. Instead, I let it go. For example, I absolutely despise flash cards because I associate them with being in school and having to memorize something to take a test. That feeling is the kiss of death for any of my language learning efforts. If I actually had to, or chose to, take a test, I would consider using flash cards, but overall, my learning is predicated on removing as much stress as possible. If you find that you like flash cards or any other method that I say that I don't like, by all means use them. Conversely, if I say that such and such a method works wonders for me and you find that you dislike it, don't force yourself.

When I write other languages or grammatical concepts of other languages in a notebook, I find that my brain absorbs the content better than when I type it on a keyboard. Certainly, there are times when typing is more convenient or has a benefit because the text can be manipulated, copied and pasted, but part of my language learning has to be done the traditional way for it to really hold.

I may resist doing further language study for a time, but I will know when I'm ready to take it on. This is a natural process that I don't rush.

If I know that I will be traveling to a place where one or several of my target languages is/are spoken, the language(s) move immediately to the front of the line before any other languages, and I practice it/ them more intensely before I go, and of course during the trip!

Some subtle ways that Spanish differs from English

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Mon, 23 Sep 2024 15:38:00 +0000

Over more than 40 years, I have learned many subtleties to Spanish. It is true of Spanish, as it is of learning the guitar, that it's easy to learn poorly but hard to learn well. Here is a random list of differences between Spanish and English that surprised me when I first learned them. Each language apparently has its own logic.

In Spanish, you don't turn on (prender) or turn off (apagar) a faucet; you open it (abrir) or close it (cerrar).

You can't say in Spanish "He almost fell down" (casi se cayó), because people will say, "He already fell down, so he didn't 'almost' do anything." The correct way to say this is "Casi se cae," which literally translated means "He almost falls down."

In Spanish, you don't eat (comer) your soup; you drink it (tomar). The same is true of oatmeal.

There is a curious construction in Spanish that goes something like this: "hasta que no termine" which literally translates as "until I don't finish" where we would say in English "until I finish."

I will share more of these in future posts.

A sign in Spanish demonstrating how to wash one's hands correctly. I take photos of signs like these to demonstrate both similarities with, and differences between, Spanish and English.

Photos from trip to Colombia in May-June 2023!

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Sun, 13 Aug 2023 13:27:00 +0000

My wife and I were exceedingly blessed to spend a month in Colombia in May and June of 2023, after our 2022 trip was hampered by COVID and other illnesses in our family. We seemed to be making up for lost time with encounters with family and friends, as well as side trips to Santa Marta, Pereira, and Manizales. Below are just a few of the highlights of our trip.

Manizales is a city with pockets nestled in the mountains

The Hotel Irotama in Santa Marta has an enormous pool

The Nevado del Ruiz, an active volcano that was emitting fumaroles

We peeked inside a church in Madrid, a town outside of Bogotá, and witnessed a wedding!

The dizzying view from the top of the cathedral of Manizales

The Museo del Chicó in Bogotá is a former hacienda

Nevado del Tolima in the foreground, Nevado del Ruiz in the background

Plenty of birds to see in Colombia like this Bananaquit in Pereira

Informal gatherings of musicians, like this one in Bogotá, are always fun

The courtyard in the Museo del Chicó in Bogotá is beautiful

In the Laguna de Guatavita park, about two hours north of Bogotá

Like Manizales, the city of Pereira has cable car transportation

The Laguna de Guatavita, site of the Muisca ritual of the cacique or chief, also known as El Dorado or The Golden Man, covered in gold powder and bathing in the lake

Colombian Andes: Eastern Cordillera from Bogotá to Choachí (2022)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Thu, 18 May 2023 11:09:00 +0000

On my last trip to Colombia in June-July 2022, I wanted to see the road between Bogotá and a town to the east named Choachí. (For those of you who have been to Bogotá, this road goes between Monserrate and the Cerro de Guadalupe.) This trip only takes 1-1/2 hours, but it goes through an impressive array of landscapes, including this one. Bogotá is high at 8,600 feet above sea level, but the road would reach the "páramo," a high altitude landscape found only in northern South America, reaching as high as 11,000 feet. The plant life in those climates is amazing.

The "páramo" at 11,000 feet above sea level

Upon descending toward Choachí, the climate gradually gets warmer. The luxuriant vegetation gives an indication of being in "tierra templada" or temperate land.

At Choachí, the landscape was bright with sun and I could feel the warmth of the lower altitude.

The center of town was brightly painted and featured some nice murals:

When it came time to return, I sat on the right side of the bus to appreciate the dramatic changes in altitude. I could see the road where I had been only a short time ago.

Upon arriving in Bogotá, I was deeply grateful for having seen an area I had wanted to travel for many years!

Attractions in Bogotá and vicinity

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 30 Nov 2021 15:51:00 +0000

View of the Magdalena River valley from La Piedra Capira, near Guaduas

This is a quick list of attractions accessible in the vicinity of Bogotá, Colombia's capital.

La Candelaria, the traditional center of Bogotá, is an interesting place with museums, coffee shops, bookstores and other attractions. For some reason I like hearing people doing English tutoring in the coffee shops or having discussions about politics. Take reasonable precautions but don’t be paranoid.

From my first trip to Colombia in 1980, I had seen buses to Valle de Tenza but had not gone there until 2015. It’s a few hours from Bogotá and has spectacular scenery and picturesque towns. I immediately connected with people every time I would arrive in the town.

Suesca, another town outside of Bogotá, is known for rock climbing. While on the bus, I observed a tourist with a large backpack asking for directions. I didn’t go to climb rocks but wanted to see the town. Again, I had some very nice encounters with people there.

La Piedra Capira, outside of the town of Guaduas, is one of the best-kept secrets of Colombia travel, in my opinion. It’s a fenced overhanging rock that on a clear day boasts an incredible view of the Magdalena River valley, including snow-capped peaks in the Cordillera Central. Talk to several taxi drivers in Guaduas to see who gives you the best price. Go in the morning as the afternoon sun obscures some of the view. (Note: Guaduas itself is a nice destination. It has a design similar to Villa de Leyva, but does not have the influx of foreign tourists that Villa de Leyva has. It was also the home of the Colombian patriot Policarpa Salavarrieta (aka La Pola).)

Chocolate Art and Crafts in Philadelphia

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 22 Jun 2021 09:30:00 +0000

Chocolate Art and Crafts owner Eva Hernández (right) with her sister Perla (left) and Raíces Culturales Co-Founder Yolanda Alcorta

One of the gems of the increasingly diverse Latino community in Philadelphia is the crafts store in the Italian Market in South Philadelphia called "Chocolate Art and Crafts." Its owner, Eva Hernández, dedicates herself to using crafts to show positive images of her home country of Mexico. Raíces Culturales Co-Founder Yolanda Alcorta visited the store in 2019 and found in Eva a willing collaborator in Raíces programming. Fortunately, Eva's store survived the pandemic and along with her sister Perla, will also collaborate with Raíces in a program on Sunday, October 24 dedicated to chocolate and its origins, along with the local organization Penn's Village. Check the Raíces website www.raicesculturales.org for details as the date approaches!

Some of the many treasures available at Chocolate Art and Crafts

Local travel in PA as we ease out of the pandemic

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Sun, 23 May 2021 08:35:00 +0000

An Eastern Bluebird in Ridley Creek State Park

Hunting Hill Mansion, where the park offices and banquet facilities are located

Like so many, I'm looking forward to traveling again as we come out of the pandemic. In the meantime, I'm enjoying taking in the local sights, such as in Ridley Creek State Park, which is a wonderful retreat for suburbanites in southeastern Pennsylvania. The park is spacious, but the area that provides a good starting point is Hunting Hill Mansion, which houses the park offices and has a space that can be rented out for weddings via www.peachtreecatering.com. Close by are stables where horseback riding is available. Go to www.hiddenvalleyhorsefarm.com for more details.

One of the residents at the Hidden Valley Horse Farm

Anapoima, Colombia photo gallery

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 04 Aug 2020 13:32:00 +0000

Latest links from my Facebook page (2020)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 04 Aug 2020 13:29:00 +0000

Taking a boat tour of the north coast of Anguilla, 2003

Below are some more recent links to posts on my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog

Luther Bryan, who took me out on his boat from Island Harbour to Scrub Island, Anguilla (2003) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157965739660129

The beach at Negril, Jamaica (2013) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157945675465129

Enjoying Miami Beach with the family in 2003 https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157915652970129

Placemat with map of the island of Culebra, a small island off the east coast of the main island of Puerto Rico. I visited there in 2007 https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157906931715129

View of the eastern savannah of Colombia from the eastern edge of the Andes (1981) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157886094160129

The Choo Choo Barn, a massive train layout in Strasburg, PA (2015) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157865757760129

Hotel Mockingbird Hill, Port Antonio, Jamaica (2013) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157861280005129

A splendid horse in El Quelite, Sinaloa, Mexico (2013) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157840170430129

A stairway with a steep descent in the town of Mesitas del Colegio, Cundinamarca, Colombia (1992) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157833519230129

Antwerp, Belgium (2009) https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/posts/10157827491925129

Reflecting on Travel: semester in Mexico City in 1979

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Thu, 28 May 2020 18:35:00 +0000

Mr. Charles Shreiner (1924-2019), Director of the Latin American Studies Program at St. Joseph's University, who was responsible for offering the junior year program in Mexico in 1979. I jumped at the opportunity.

Practically everyone on the planet is grounded because of the coronavirus, and travel plans have to be postponed for our own safety and the safety of others. While we're all waiting, the two things that I can do are the following: 1) look back on previous trips and cherish the memories, and 2) take local drives to look for places to walk and take in scenery (in some parts of the world, the restrictions in place won't allow you to do this). I have been exceedingly fortunate to have spent over 40 years traveling to wonderful locations, and have a storehouse of memories to draw upon. Much as I've enjoyed the exhilaration of traveling, I equally enjoy taking the time to remember these experiences and appreciate them even further.

Housemate Eliel Garay, originally from Acapulco, who celebrated his birthday with a drink of rompope liqueur

The first real opportunity I had to travel afar in any meaningful way was during a semester in Mexico in 1979, when I was a junior at St. Joseph's University. Our university had a study abroad program with the Universidad Iberoamericana in Mexico City, and it was a fabulous way to get acquainted with another country and culture. We international students stayed at individual houses not far from the university, as there were no dormitories. The university's international department sponsored day field trips to places like Teotihuacán, site of impressive pyramids; nearby Cuernavaca; and the mining town of Taxco. The climate was ideal, and social opportunities with housemates and fellow students were abundant. There were also concerts at the university, and I recall seeing a gentleman named Carlos Maceiras play classical guitar and then break into jazz, which electrified the audience.

In March, midway through the semester, we felt movement in our house at 5:15 am, and concluded that an earthquake was striking. We went to the doorway and rode it out, then tried to go back to sleep. Shortly afterwards, we saw a huge flash resembling a lightning bolt, which turned out to be the power plant, after which the electricity went out. Housemate Eliel Garay, with his quick wit, sang Carole King's "I Feel the Earth Move Under My Feet" after things settled down.

Later we learned that "something happened to the university" and went outside to find out more. As we walked to the university and met up with some of our classmates along the way, we realized that it had been toppled. The university had a long main building with five wings connected to it, labeled A to E. Part of the main building split off around wing C, bringing down the remainder of that building, then flattening wing E like a set of dominoes. No one was in the building when it happened; the last students in the building left at 2 am.

I was studying in Mexico City in 1979 when an earthquake destroyed Universidad Iberoamericana, the university I was attending

The International Department was completely under the rubble, as were the travelers' checks I had kept there for safekeeping. I had bought Citicorp Travelers' Checks at AAA before leaving for Mexico. Wagons-Lits managed these in Mexico City, and I went to the office to put in a claim. I was told that I would have to have a police report, which I would have to get at a certain precinct. It turned out to be a waste of time. My Mexican friends told me instead to go to the "Delegación Política," and one of them accompanied me to the office to get the required documents. In the meantime, my parents had wired me money to tide me over. Ultimately, I was able to return to Wagons-Lits and get the money, but later learned that my friends who had brought American Express travelers' checks got their money on the spot at the Amex office. You can guess which company I used after that!

With the university in ruins, all the offices moved in cramped quarters to the library, a separate building that was still standing. All our classes moved to the residences of several of the housemothers who had been renting out rooms to us. I recall in one house, a beautiful Russian wolfhound would strut in and out while we were having classes. It was initially uncomfortable, but all of us made it work.

After finishing our studies in May and saying our goodbyes, I accompanied one of my classmates who was driving from Mexico City to Austin. We drove to San Luis Potosí, saw a band in the plaza who was playing 70s disco music, and stayed the night at a decent hotel. On the second day, we stopped at an open-air market and I got a nice cowboy hat. Back on the road, we got to drier land and ultimately Saltillo. The town was pleasant, but my friend wanted a hotel with an enclosed garage to protect his car, and the hotel turned out to be a disaster. The bathroom floor flooded as soon as I flushed the toilet. During the night we were tormented by midges and tried sleeping in the car to get away from them. After our horrible night's sleep, we hit the road again, crossed the border at Piedras Negras/Eagle Pass to avoid the traffic at Laredo, and proceeded on to San Antonio. The contrast between Mexico and the US could not have been greater: brown all around on the Mexican side, green on the US side. San Antonio was marvelous with its River Walk, and we made up for our bad experience in Saltillo by staying at a nice La Quinta in San Antonio. The next morning we had a sumptuous Mexican breakfast at a restaurant named "Mi Tierra," paid a visit at an Army base as my classmate was an Army lawyer, having reached the rank of Captain, and proceeded to Austin. I spent some time in Austin with my classmate, then proceeded to fly to Dallas and then to Tampa. My ultimate destination was Lakeland to stay with my aunt and uncle, along with another student who had decided to go to Guadalajara first before meeting up with me in Tampa. We enjoyed Lakeland and visited the pre-Epcot Disney World. I recall that the temperature in late May was 85 degrees Fahrenheit - not as oppressive as it normally would have been. After our stay there, we flew to Atlanta and made our way to Chattanooga to stay with my friend's brother. From there we were able to go to Lake Winnepesaukah Amusement Park in Rosswell, Georgia, and later Rock City, Cloudland Canyon, and Lookout Mountain. After all that traveling, we flew to Atlanta and back home to Philadelphia.

Links to my Facebook page (2019-2020)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Sun, 02 Feb 2020 14:24:00 +0000

Panorama of the plaza in Tunja, Colombia, from a trip in 2019

In spite of my resolutions, I haven't posted here since last July, and I will try to be more consistent in the future. I now tend to post more on my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/mikeespositotravelblog/ with quick references to places I've visited, accompanied by a photo. In the meantime, before my next Blogger post, I'll provide links to several Facebook posts here. Hope you enjoy them!

Havre de Grace, Maryland, where the Susquehanna River meets the Chesapeake Bay, and an important historical site (2020)

Sunset in Amish Country, PA (2019)

30th Street Station in Philadelphia, PA right before Thanksgiving 2019

Paintings from Roland Richardson's gallery in Marigot, Saint Martin (2019)

An aerial shot of Bimini Islands, Bahamas (2019)

View from the tower in Filandia, Department of Quindío, Colombia (2019)

Ceiling painting from the house of Gonzalo Suárez Rendón, Tunja, Colombia (2019)

The tourist train that starts in Bogotá, Colombia and continues north to the towns of Zipaquirá and Nemocón (2019)

Shoal Bay Beach, Anguilla (2019)

Returning to St. Martin after 16 years

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 23 Jul 2019 01:35:00 +0000

Chairs set out in front of the Azure Hotel and Art Studio on Simpson Bay Beach

After two research trips to St. Martin in 2002 and 2003 as part of a project with Raíces Culturales, I had the chance to return to the island this year as a tourist with my wife. There are direct flights from Philadelphia, which didn't exist when I traveled there on my first two trips.

The island, as the smallest island shared by two sovereign states, is known by its two names: Sint Maarten for the Dutch side and Saint-Martin for the French side. Sint Maarten is an autonomous entity within the Kingdom of the Netherlands, and Saint-Martin is part of the French overseas department of Guadeloupe. Islanders who hope for unifying the two sides as an independent state prefer to focus on its common English Caribbean roots and use the English spelling of St. Martin to refer to the entire island, regardless of the current state of sovereignty. Out of respect for them and their heritage, I use their spelling unless I have reason to differentiate the two sides of the island.

Tortoises are among the guests at the Azure Hotel and Art Studio

On my first trip, I stayed at the Seaview Beach Hotel, a small hotel on the beach in Philipsburg. On my second visit, I rented a room with a friend who lived on a hill, in a section called Mary's Fancy. For this third opportunity, we decided on the Azure Hotel and Art Studio, a small, hospitable location on Simpson Bay Beach, close to Princess Juliana Airport. Though you can hear the planes take off while on the beach, it is not where the planes fly incredibly low as they approach the runway. That "honor" goes to Maho Bay Beach.

The beautiful blue water in Simpson Bay can be seen from the Karakter restaurant

Accommodations on the Dutch side (Sint Maarten) have a notable advantage to their French-side counterparts: potable running water as opposed to the well water that isn't safe to drink. We learned very quickly the value of having that option, especially because our room had a kitchenette, enabling us to eat in when we wanted.

I wanted to see how St. Martin had recovered from the massive destruction wrought by Hurricane Irma in 2017. By and large, the island looked open for business. The indicators of the hurricane's impact could be seen in damaged cars, a few buildings in partial or complete disrepair, and the second floor of the airport not yet open, but the rebuilding effort after such a devastating storm was a tribute to the hard work of the islanders. Some attractions such as the Sint Maarten Museum in Philipsburg, or artist Roland Richardson's gallery in Marigot, had finished their repairs only shortly before our arrival.

We accidentally went into a new branch of a popular supermarket chain, Super U, on the day of its grand opening in Hope Estate. (No, we didn't win the car)

There was still plenty that I hadn't seen on the island, so it was worthwhile to return, rent a car and do some sightseeing. For example, I had never visited Loterie Farm, a nature attraction along the road to Pic Paradis, the highest point in St. Martin. Likewise, I wanted to sample the views from the Little Bay Hotel and what remained of Fort Amsterdam, both on a peninsula separating Little Bay from Great Bay.

The entrance to Loterie Farm in the center of the island

In terms of eating, St. Martin is an island that doesn't lend itself to all-inclusive resorts. Even after Irma, enough restaurants have come back to make the dining options considerable, from fast food to high end. We sampled quite a few without breaking the bank, such as a Latin roast chicken eatery called Pollos Hermanos, had coffee and baguettes for breakfast at a wonderful French bakery called Café Atlántico, and caught a soccer game at a small restaurant in the Simpson Bay area that made delicious Colombian empanadas. The town most associated with fine eating is Grand Case, which, while in the process of reopening some of its famed restaurants, still has its renowned "lolos" or seafood restaurants along the beach. Great food, generous portions.

My choice from the ample seafood menu of one of the "lolos" in Grand Case

Returning to St. Martin was wonderful. Not only did we relax and enjoy ourselves, but we were also able to meet with friends that I had made during my first two research trips. For me, St. Martin more than earns its name "The Friendly Island."

Remembering my visit to the Feria de Abril in Seville, Spain (II)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Mon, 06 May 2019 11:34:00 +0000

La Giralda, the tower of Seville's cathedral

The rest of the week in Seville was spent finding activities to fill our time. It wasn't necessary to spend every day at the Feria per se, as there were other activities that were just as worthy of our attention. Julia had plenty of friends of Seville and was indispensable in introducing us to Juan Iglesias, who was our contact for a caseta dedicated to flamenco called "Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena." He and I had an interesting conversation discussing whether or not flamenco could be considered "folklore." Juan didn't consider flamenco in the same category as folklore, and preferred to classify it as more of an art form, which meant that it could be subject to more innovation and individual shaping than folklore would. Of course, this is a topic that could be debated endlessly, depending on one's definition of folklore and what fits within its realm.

I learned that although flamenco dancers do perform sevillanas, flamenco and sevillanas are not one and the same. In fact, the Feria is usually not the best time to find the best selection of authentic flamenco, with a few notable exceptions: the previously mentioned caseta, and a wonderful place called "Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus," a small venue in the heart of Seville that presents flamenco in an intimate setting: a courtyard with a canopy high above to protect from any rain. Nancy and I attended one such performance and were blown away. If you go to Seville, do not miss this. Reserving tickets at the Casa de Memoria is an absolute must, as the place is small and tickets sell out quickly. The website is https://www.casadelamemoria.es/ . The Casa is used to accommodating English-speaking guests, so you will have no difficulty there.

Tom would take flamenco lessons during the day with friends in the city. Nancy and I would tour the city either together or separately. We decided that we would reserve a trip to Granada on one of those days to see the Alhambra, that marvelous palace from the medieval era when the Moors dominated Spain. We learned that only guided tour groups are allowed into the Alhambra, and they are moved through quickly due to the demand. Our tour group was divided into Spanish speakers and English speakers, so while Nancy and I were together on the bus, she went off to the English group and I went with the Spanish group. We convened again for lunch and met a delightful Irish couple, discussing the politics of the day. US foreign policy is always a hot topic for discussion, and while we didn't disagree, we still tried to tread lightly in that area.

There were two comforting routines that we fell into during evenings that we didn't go to the Feria grounds: a cafe that was convenient to our apartment, and a restaurant not far from there, where we could sit outdoors and take our time. Dinner was served very late. It would get dark at 9:30 pm, and our dinner would continue leisurely until midnight. I was hooked on paella and had it almost every time, along with a delicious dessert consisting of a large ball of vanilla ice cream with a crispy chocolate coating.

We absolutely had to go back to the Feria on Sunday night for the big sendoff before we returned to the States. The Feria grounds are absolutely packed as people waited for the finale at midnight, when the lights of the Feria gate are turned off in stages, followed immediately by a fireworks show. It was the perfect way to cap off a wonderful week in Spain.

You can learn more about the 2019 Feria de Sevilla, which is taking place now, having started on May 4 and continuing through May 11, at the website http://www.andalucia.com/festival/seville-feria.htm .

Remembering my visit to the Feria de Abril in Seville, Spain (I)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Sun, 28 Apr 2019 10:05:00 +0000

The 2006 portal to the Feria de Abril (April Fair) in Seville, Spain at night

I recall reading somewhere that it is incredible that the city of Seville, Spain celebrates two large festivals within two weeks of each other: first, the solemn Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions; and then the joyous Feria de Sevilla or Feria de Abril (April Fair), with all the planning that goes into each. Four of us, Julia López (then the director of a flamenco troupe in Philadelphia called Flamenco Olé), two of her flamenco students, Tomas (Tom) Dura and Nancy Hill, and myself, took this trip in April 2006 to do research on the Feria, which our local arts organization Raíces Culturales Latinoamericanas (Latin American Cultural Roots) was going to present the following year at the International House of Philadelphia, with support from the dance program of the Pew Foundation on the Arts. Of course, our festival would not approach the size of Spain's Feria, which attracts over a million people each year, but our goal was to absorb as much as possible from Feria to be as faithful as possible to detail in our much smaller event.

My plane arrived in Madrid early in the morning, and from there I had to take a taxi to the Atocha railroad station. After the all-night flight and the change in time zones I was really sleepy, but managed to see at least some of the countryside on the way south to Seville. I recall seeing wide open plains in between snoozes.

When I arrived in Seville, I was really fortunate because Julia, Tom and Nancy had arrived ahead of me and had already settled in the apartment we were renting. Tom was available to help me get acclimated, but Julia and Nancy had gone to a flamenco show. Nancy begged Julia to show her what fake flamenco looked like, and so they went to a place where glassy-eyed, emotionless dancers went into their routines. Unfortunately for them, they got caught in a thunderstorm walking back to the apartment at night and were thoroughly drenched.

The apartment was modern and slightly north of the center of Seville, so for the most part it was convenient for us to walk into town and ultimately cross over the Guadalquivir River to Barrio Triana, the site of the Feria grounds and the subject of many sevillanas (traditional songs representing Seville). Feria has existed since the 1840s and over the course of the years has outgrown its locations, but this Feria site was more than capable of handling the million or so tourists who visit it every year.

Julia López (left) and Nancy Hill presenting a gift from Philadelphia to Antonio Silva, director of the Feria de Sevilla

One of our first activities was meeting the then-director of the Feria, Antonio Silva, and learning about the history of the Feria, which is fascinating. One of the interesting aspects of Feria is that there is an annual competition among the city's architects for the portal design. The goal of the design is to incorporate some aspect of Seville into the portal. The top photo shows the design that won the competition for 2006.

The official start time of the Feria is midnight Monday going into Tuesday, so when I went to the Feria grounds on Monday afternoon, the people who were there were busy setting up their casetas or tents for the six-day celebration. It was fun watching the preparations and some friendly people who were just walking around.

Young people at the Feria grounds prior to the start of the celebration

As the bulk of Feria activity would take place at night, we had the daytime to do a variety of activities. From our apartment it was easy to walk through Seville and take in some of the sights. We had to be mindful that the hours of stores were reduced due to the Feria, and that it was best to shop in the morning. The department store El Corte Inglés was an exception, as it had afternoon hours and was a great place to find books and CDs.

On Monday night, as Tom and I approached the Feria grounds, there was a huge crowd waiting for the alumbrao, or lighting of the Feria portal, which would take place at midnight. As the entrance to the Feria was closed until this occurrence, the crowds were pressing on us. When midnight did arrive, there was a huge cheer with the crowds flooding the entrance and grounds to take in all the sights.

We learned that most of the casetas or tents at the Feria were private affairs with particular clubs or groups of people who had reserved their space and took care of their decoration and food sales. There were also public casetas in specific locations, which were much noisier. Tom and I presented ourselves at Seville's municipal caseta. My goal was just to say hello to Antonio Silva, whom I had met earlier in the day, but much to our surprise, we were invited in and were able to take in all the activity, including the delicious fish that was served along with plenty of manzanilla (a variety of sherry) to wash it down. Tom felt somewhat like a fish out of water because he didn't speak Spanish, but he came alive when some women approached us to invite us to dance sevillanas, and he went off to dance with them while I continued my Spanish conversations, not being much of a dancer myself.

The Feria celebration continues well into the night. Tom and I finished up at around 4 am and went to the bus stop to pick up one of the well-organized free buses that ran continuously and took people from the Feria grounds to the center of Seville across the Guadalquivir River. From there we walked back to our apartment.

Interior of a caseta with its lanterns or farolillos

You can learn about the 2019 Feria de Sevilla, which actually takes place between May 4 and 11 because Easter Sunday was later this year than in most years (April 21), at the website http://www.andalucia.com/festival/seville-feria.htm .

The Relationship Between My Travel and Our Nonprofit Arts Organization "Raíces Culturales Latinoamericanas" (Latin American Cultural Roots)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Sat, 20 Apr 2019 14:46:00 +0000

One of countless performances by our organization Raíces Culturales Latinoamericanas (Latin American Cultural Roots)

In an earlier post, I gave some thought as to why I have never had the desire to become a "travel nomad" as many have done, in order to sample the world and experience the freedom that being tied down to a specific place does not provide. While there are plenty of practical reasons related to family obligations and other considerations, one that is especially relevant is that, from the time I started traveling, I always had the desire to bring back what I had seen and learned in my travels to the people back home in the States. This especially took root after I returned from a year of graduate study at the Universidad Javeriana in Bogotá, Colombia in 1981, under the auspices of the Fulbright program. After a decade of interacting with the Latino community of Philadelphia, I decided to start a nonprofit arts organization in 1991 showcasing the culture of Spain, Latin America and the Caribbean, which we named Raíces Culturales Latinoamericanas (Latin American Cultural Roots). Fortunately, I had met a short time before a woman named Yolanda Alcorta who happened to be a co-worker of mine at Wyeth Laboratories and who shared the same passion, so together we started Raíces and worked together nonstop for 15 years until she moved to Washington, DC.

Yolanda Alcorta and I in front of the Raíces banner

The Raíces concept was to showcase several Latin cultures together in a single performance so that the audience could see the diversity. To achieve this end, we reached out to many performing groups and individuals in the Philadelphia area to invite them to collaborate with us, which they did. Ultimately, we presented at least some manifestation of the culture of every Latin American nation, as well as Spain. Groups came and went, but we always had the assistance of several of them when it came time to perform, or deliver a workshop to a school. Such was Yolanda's devotion that she quit her job at Wyeth to become our first full-time Executive Director, while her husband Chris supported their family financially.

Yolanda's mother Elvira Gaitán was born in Guatemala, and as such Yolanda gravitated toward her family in Guatemala and the richness of that country's culture in her travels. She brought back much research material from Guatemala, while I did the same in Colombia while visiting my wife Adriana's family there. We both tried to take in as much traditional culture as we could during our visits. Later, with the assistance of organizations such as Pennsylvania Council on the Arts and the Pew Foundation, we traveled to other regions, among them Puerto Rico, Spain, and Trinidad to do research to assist us in organizing performances in Philadelphia.

Visiting Seville, Spain in 2006 with Julia López (seated, right), flamenco instructor and then director of the Philadelphia flamenco troupe Flamenco Olé, to do research on the Feria de Abril (April Fair) and learn more about flamenco. I'm standing with Juan Iglesias and Nancy Hill, one of Julia's students. Juan Iglesias' wife is seated at left.

It goes without saying that traveling to these locations helped us enormously in our mission to render faithfully the cultures we witnessed, as well as create a storehouse of memories and "between the lines" anecdotal experiences that found their way into our events. Attendees would notice these subtleties and sometimes consciously, sometimes unconsciously, felt an air of authenticity that would have been impossible without our travels. For Yolanda and myself, the events and the audience's reaction provided us with great satisfaction.

A footnote is that our direct involvement in Raíces initially ended in 2006 for Yolanda, and for me in 2009. Verónica Castillo-Pérez succeeded Yolanda as Executive Director from 2006 to 2012, and Mary Rivera from 2012 to 2015. To provide the Raíces Board an alternative to closing the organization in 2015 due to funding issues, I offered to take back the organization's management, which was accomplished in 2016. Yolanda enthusiastically joined me, and since then, we have created events both in Philadelphia and Washington, DC, helped by Yolanda's freelance cultural work in DC since moving there. You can read the story in my article Michael and Yolanda, Raíces Co-Founders, Retake the Reins.

You can follow Raíces more closely via our website , our Facebook pages Raices Culturales Latinoamericanas (in English) and Folklorelatino (in Spanish), and our Twitter account @RaicesCultural .

Links to two Google Maps I created: Places visited; and World dance, music and culture

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Fri, 22 Mar 2019 14:42:00 +0000

Over the past few months, I've been busy updating two Google Maps I've created, which represent my interests in travel and culture.

The first map pinpoints all the places I've visited. You can find it at https://drive.google.com/open?id=1J3OA20JGNDea1vMZTx1YMDqFJAI&usp=sharing .

The second map highlights, and contains many links to, audio and video that I've been able to find showing the cultures of the world. This map is located at https://drive.google.com/open?id=186yxS_EKfmTb6Dn7WguKLVvc_F4&usp=sharing .

Hope you enjoy these!

Sogamoso and Surroundings in Colombia

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Wed, 10 Oct 2018 00:10:00 +0000

The plaza of Sogamoso, in the province of Boyacá

The cool Bogotá savannah extends well north of the capital and continues through in similar form toward Tunja, the capital city of the province of Boyacá. A bus ride to the north and east of Tunja showed me that this same savannah continued to Sogamoso, also in the province of Boyacá, before finally ending there. Sogamoso is a small city with lots of activity in its commercial district and large central plaza, which honors both its indigenous past with a sculpture honoring the sun god of its ancestors (the last cacique or chief of the region before the Spanish conquest was named Sugamuxi), and the Catholic cathedral of St. Martin of Tours behind the sculpture.

Interior of the church in the town of Monguí

It takes a little less than an hour to take a bus to the nearby town of Monguí, winding slowly through the mountains. Monguí is a really picturesque place situated in the hills, and would be noteworthy for its colonial architecture alone. However, the town has carved a niche for itself in another way: as a manufacturer of soccer balls. In the plaza you can find stores that dedicate themselves to this craft. We went in one store to peek at the workers busily making them and look through all the sizes and varieties available, with World Cup posters decorating the walls.

Flower pots in Monguí decorated with the soccer balls the town is famous for making

Another noteworthy side trip from Sogamoso is to the Lago de Tota, the largest natural lake in Colombia. The cool breeze reminds you that you are at a high elevation - 3,015 meters (9,892 feet) above sea level, to be exact. There are plenty of captivating views and towns surrounding the lake, among them Aquitania, which prides itself on rainbow trout caught in the nearby waters, as well as being a major source of onions. As for us, we were not in search of trout or onions, but rather for some delicious ice cream in the plaza, which capped off the day nicely.

On the shore of Lake Tota

Feria del Barrio in Philadelphia: A True Community Festival, taking place on Sunday, September 23

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Thu, 20 Sep 2018 11:04:00 +0000

Longtime Philly resident Elba Dormoi showing her ornate Panamanian pollera at the Feria in 2017

The Latino community of Philadelphia is an integral part of the city's tourism offerings. At a short distance from the center of town, many cultural manifestations such as food are available. With that in mind, tours were developed hitting some of the key community centers and sampling the culture.

One event located in this same community is the Feria del Barrio, which loosely translated means Neighborhood Block Party, but in reality this is a larger festival than a typical block party. This event has been in existence since 1979 and is an important component of the Latino community's efforts to affirm and celebrate their heritage with performances, food, crafts and activities for kids. I always like to participate in these events as a way to experience the culture when I can't travel to the countries directly.

I have been to so many of the Ferias over the years that I've lost count, but I can say that I've been more involved in its planning starting in 2016 via the organization I co-founded with Yolanda Alcorta in 1991, Raíces Culturales Latinoamericanas (Latin American Cultural Roots), or Raíces for short (www.raicesculturales.org). The event this year takes place Sunday, September 23, from noon to 5 pm and stretches north two blocks from 5th and Huntingdon Streets to 5th and Somerset Streets, with the main stage in the middle at 5th St. and Lehigh Ave. The co-sponsors along with Raíces are Taller Puertorriqueño, Congreso de Latinos Unidos, and HACE (Hispanic Association of Contractors and Enterprises), along with Telemundo 62. We are especially enthusiastic this year because we are increasing our cultural offerings at our tables in front of the Taller Puertorriqueño's beautiful modern facility, opened in 2016. We'll feature workshops from the performing groups Inca Wayra, Ballet Folklórico Yaretzi, and Raíces Boricuas, as well as a Guatemalan weaver. The website is feria.tallerpr.org if you want to learn more.

Info on my presentation: Diversity in Caribbean Culture: An Introduction

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Fri, 14 Sep 2018 10:09:00 +0000

Diversity in Caribbean Culture: An Introduction

Friday, September 14 @ 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm

FREE

Michael Esposito, co-founder of Raices Culturales Latinoamericanas will lead a lively and vivid discussion on the diverse Caribbean Culture. A global traveller and world adventurer, Mike dives into the Caribbean exploring the unique islands and peoples of the tropics. He is most at home with the Latino Roots Culture and cross-connection of the Caribbean Roots.

Caribbean Community in Philadelphia will collaborate with Raices in facilatating a dialogue of multi-layered dimension.

Councilman Brendan Boyle’s Office will be represented with resourceful information for the immigrant community.

A first installment of Caribbean Conversions during Philly Welcoming Week.

+ GOOGLE CALENDAR + ICAL EXPORT

Details

Date:: September 14
Time:: 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm
Cost:: FREE
Event Category:: In Philly
Event Tags:: Arts Education, Digital Media, Discussion / Panel / Talk, Free, Workshop
Website:: https://www.facebook.com/events/2060356187614056/

Organizers

Raices Culturales Latinoamericanos

Caribbean Community in Philadelphia

Venue

Taller Puertorriqueño

2600 N 5th St
Philadelphia, PA 19133 United States+ Google Map

Playing the tourist in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic (2018)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 12 Jun 2018 00:58:00 +0000

Bávaro Beach in the Punta Cana tourism area

My wife and I had wanted to visit Punta Cana for years and finally had our opportunity in May 2018. We found a great deal at the all-inclusive Iberostar resort in the Bávaro Beach area, comprised of three hotels: Bávaro Suites, Iberostar Punta Cana and Iberostar Dominicana. We stayed at the Bávaro Suites area but could use the facilities at the other two hotels. As it turned out, we liked the Bávaro Suites just fine and had a nice-sized room close to the pool area.

This hotel complex is geared to serving huge crowds, and many of the guests hailed from Europe and South America as well as the US (Germans and Argentinians were especially there in good number), so Americans don't dominate there the way they sometimes do at other resorts. Food was plentiful and varied; not everything was a hit in my estimation but there was so much to choose from that it was inevitable to find plenty to one's liking. The service was very good overall. The Dominicans that we encountered on our trip struck me as friendly and exuberant, accommodating and easy to chat with.

I observed that items were pricey, and outside of the normal run of tourist activities, there was not much of interest close by unless you didn't mind being on a long guided tour to Isla Saona, Altos de Chavón or Santo Domingo which would have eaten up most of the day. Any impulses I might have had to stray from the resort or the shopping areas in Punta Cana were tempered by the distances, the cost of hiring a taxi, and the intense heat. Things for sale were mostly the souvenirs that everyone is accustomed to buying, save some local crafts. The best way to catch the local flavor was by buying food, no pun intended. A free shuttle can pick you up at the hotel at certain times of the day to be taken to a small shopping mall called the San Juan Plaza Shopping Center. We did find a few souvenirs there but we especially liked finding Dominican specialties in the supermarket.

Accurately or not, I generally gauge the pride or the knowledge that the local hospitality industry has in the regional culture by the amount of cultural items that are available at the airport. It was impossible to find so much as a guidebook there, and in that respect the area did not compare as well to Cancún, which was built in the middle of a number of culturally significant centers, such as the Mayan ruins at Tulum. My recollection was that the taxis to go into town were not as expensive in Cancún as they were in Punta Cana.

For me, the negatives were minor because the amenities and the friendliness of our hosts made the trip more than worthwhile. After noticing how difficult it would be to go off the beaten path in a way that I would have normally liked, I decided that for this trip, I would not engage in that pursuit and play the tourist on this trip - just this once.

A quick business trip to Bogotá, Colombia (2018)

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Wed, 23 May 2018 10:45:00 +0000

Part of the "welcoming committee" at Andrés DC Restaurant in Bogotá

In 38 years of traveling to Colombia, I had never taken a strictly business trip there, but an opportunity arose this year (2018) as I was hired by a consultant to do research on pharmaceutical manufacturing. (I have probably not mentioned here that I have worked in the pharmaceutical industry in one capacity or another for over 30 years, and now I do consulting independently under the name TrainReach Consulting, LLC (www.trainreach.com). One occasion to learn more about the manufacturing and distribution side of the industry came at the GS1 Healthcare Conference in Bogotá, Colombia in April. The timing was wonderful, and aside from the informative topics on the use of barcodes in healthcare, our hosts made every effort to expose us to Colombian culture. The attendees came from several areas of healthcare, from Pharma companies to hospitals and pharmacies, and from every inhabited continent except Africa, which would have its own convention in May.

There were two instances where the culture was celebrated: first, with a reception at the hotel featuring a band that played music from the Barranquilla carnival; and second, a dinner at one of the Andrés chain of restaurants that have become so popular. The first of these was Andrés Carne de Res in the nearby town of Cota, which became popular not only for its food, especially the steak (hence the name "Carne de Res"), but also for its quirky design and a plethora of touches, with a Disney-like precision but definitely Colombian style. There is jovial entertainment or interaction of one form or another almost constantly, and you see it from the time you walk in the door, such as in the photo above from when we arrived.

While we were there, I had the chance to chat with a gentleman from Belgium who was visiting Colombia for the first time, and as he was not going to be able to do any additional touring in the country, I shared with him what I knew and tried to give him some perspective. I've learned that one has to be really careful sharing anything that is negative, because of the danger of possibly reinforcing stereotypes. Of course, there were plenty of positive things to share, such as Colombia's incredible biodiversity and cultural diversity, and he could see the legendary Colombian hospitality for himself.

The weekend gave me the chance to relax in Bogotá before returning home. The week had already been packed!

The Valle de Tenza in Colombia

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Tue, 19 Sep 2017 23:56:00 +0000

The plaza in Guateque

I have traveled to Colombia over a 37-year period and recall seeing many buses indicating that they were traveling to the Valle de Tenza in the province of Boyacá, about a three-hour ride from Bogotá, toward the northeast. Foreign tourists did not appear to visit the region with any regularity, as most of them go to the colonial-style town of Villa de Leyva, also in Boyacá but in a different direction.

The town of Somondoco as seen from Guateque

In December 2015 I made my first trip to the area, visiting the towns of Guateque and Tenza. One can not help but be impressed by the immense mountains and gorges that mark the route once one turns off the main road to Tunja and heads east. After the considerable twists and turns, I stopped in Guateque, the first major town in the valley on our route. Guateque has a temperate climate, warmer than Bogotá and the towns immediately to the north of the city. While in Guateque, I met with a professor named Luis Carlos Uscátegui who was in the area doing research and supporting an artisans' cooperative that specialized in basket weaving. He suggested that I visit Tenza, and I hailed a taxi to take me there. I didn't have a lot of time to spend in Tenza, but it was well worth it: the town was beautiful and quiet. I had some time to meet a gentleman named Marco Antonio Roa, who was the director of folk dance groups in the town.

One of the quiet streets in Tenza

In April 2017 I returned to the valley. This time I passed Guateque and kept going to a town named Garagoa which was a little farther down the route. There were even more landscapes that awaited, and I was taking every photo I could with my iPhone while the bus bounced over the bumps in the road. My time was limited in Garagoa, so I focused on the church, which did not disappoint with its beautiful interior and many statues that were lovingly preserved. The local people were very friendly, and eager to chat with me about American politics.

Valle de Tenza still has more that awaits my discovery, as there are several other towns in the area with their own views and enchantment.

Interior of the church in Garagoa

Expanding focus of blog to include all travel - a selection of photos

noreply@blogger.com (Michael Esposito) — Sat, 19 Aug 2017 00:51:00 +0000

I have decided to expand the focus of my blog to include all of my travel, though there will still be plenty of content related to Latin America. I have already been sharing information on all my travel experiences on my Facebook page, @mikeespositotravelblog. The blog's url will remain the same even with the change in focus.

Below are a few sample photos from different trips, some local, and others more distant.

Ecuadorian tall ship in Baltimore's Inner Harbor, 2012

Dolphin at the exact top of its jump at the National Aquarium in Baltimore

A scene in Antwerp, Belgium

Autumn in Valley Forge National Historical Park with a covered bridge in the background

Horse and carriage in Villa de Leyva, a town in Colombia famous for its colonial architecture. I thought it amusing that the driver was on his cell phone

One of my favorite photos: a garden in Anapoima, Colombia featuring a colorful heliconia (Hanging Lobster Claw)

Monument to Irish immigrants to Philadelphia

Philadelphia Zoo, the oldest zoo in the United States, with some of its favorite inhabitants, the giraffes

Taller Puertorriqueño (Puerto Rican Workshop), an arts organization in Philadelphia founded in 1974