The Galloping Gardener

On the road again .... And now in awesome Odisha, India - at Desia in the heart of the tribal region

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Sun, 20 Nov 2022 08:12:00 +0000

The weekly market at Kotpad, which takes place on Tuesdays

Odisha is billed as one of India's best-kept secrets, but in reality, it is one of the nation's most under-developed states and therefore relatively inaccessible in terms of facilities for tourists. But if you're prepared to take the rough with the smooth, this beautiful state is well worth visiting because of its rich history and culture - particularly the amazing tribal people and the thriving handicraft and handloom industries, operating from the front rooms of village people's homes.

Self on a trip to one of Odisha's waterfalls from Desia

The capital of Odisha is Bhubaneswar (pronounced boo-ban-esh-wah) which is served by direct flights from the capital Delhi, as well as Mumbai, Kolkata and Hyderabad. The other option is to arrive by train, but I chose to fly in from Delhi and on arrival, transferred to the coastal town of Puri to use it as a base for making my onward travel plans to other parts of the state. It was hard to make plans to travel within the state without being on site, because I felt that I knew little about the terrain.

Dried fish is one of the many delicacies you will find at the local haats in Odisha

Originally known as Orissa and still called that by many of its residents, the state changed its name in 2011, as did the official state language - from Oriya to Odia. It is somewhere that I have always wanted to visit because of the large numbers of surviving tribes who live there, caught in a time capsule in their remote villages in the heart of the countryside. But finding a way to access them proved almost impossible until I found Yugubrata Kar in the seaside town of Puri on the Bay of Bengal. He runs a local travel agency, but is also a major player in the local community, committed to preserving Odisha's history.

Desia is at the heart of Odisha's tribal community in the north-western part of the state

Known affectionately by both friends and family as "Bubu", this man has created an extraordinary community in the heart of tribal Odisha. He and his wife Sheeri have built a camp called "Desia" which is entirely staffed by local people from the neighbouring villages and, working alongside their staff, they have created an eco-camp experience in a remote area of north-eastern Odisha, that nobody but the feint-hearted should miss.

A roadside stop with Sheeri (right) to buy fresh vegetables en route to Desia

Desia is a combination of tented camp and eco-cottage living, staffed by the local people from the villages, who cook, guide and nurture their guests. So with Bubu's help I set off from Puri by car and headed to the camp, which would be my home and base for a week as I explored the local area and tribal markets. It was a week that changed my life forever because I left behind all ties with modern-day civilisation, including the internet. There is a landline at Desia, but if you want access to the net, you need to go to the local "Jio Tree" where you might be lucky enough to get a signal!

Some of the Bonda and Gaddava women at Onukudelli market

Ideally located in the heart of tribal Odisha, Desia serves as an ideal base to visit the wonderful local markets, known as "haats" that occur throughout the region on set days of the week, bringing the many different tribal people out to trade and barter their wares at some of the most colourful events I've ever witnessed in my travels. The local people travel many miles to the haat, not just to buy or sell, but also to exchange news and gossip with each other.

Bonda lady at Onukudelli in November 2022, photographed by author with telephoto lens

One of the most popular markets with visitors is Onukudelli, which takes place on a Thursday, because of the large numbers of Bonda and Gaddava women who attend wearing their colourful clothes and highly-noticeable neck jewellery. But it is also popular with tourists, so if you are lucky enough to go as a foreigner, please practise responsible tourism and don't push your camera in the faces of these people or buy their necklaces, even if you're tempted.

Visiting Kotpad market with one of the leading lights of Desia (on right)

To make the most of a tour of this region, plan a trip for at least four to seven days so you can make the most of several of the local markets, rather than just one. Desia is well placed to allow you to get to these markets and can make the arrangements for you, with the services of a local guide. Tours can be booked directly through Heritage Tours Orissa who can help you with all your land arrangements, including pick-up from the airport.

Javier Senosiain's spectacular Casa Organica, Mexico City

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 28 Apr 2021 20:28:00 +0000

Mexico City has long been loved for its sense of green, so if you get the chance to visit after these troubled times of Covid-19, try to include Javier Senosiain's extraordinary Casa Organica (Organic House) at Naucalpan in the hills to the north of the city. You will never forget this property, designed in the shape of a shark (above) and surrounded by a garden filled with seasonal flowers. But it is the house that is truly remarkable - an undulating ferro-concrete construction with a labyrinth of rooms and inter-connecting carpeted passages that will return you to the womb.

Senosiain (1948) is an acclaimed Mexican architect, recognised as a key exponent of "organic" architecture (the harmonisation of humans and the environment). He completed The Organic House in 1984 and lived and worked here with his family for many years. At the time of writing he is a professor of architecture at the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) and the house was shown by one of his students.

Once inside, ovular windows afford different views of the garden outside.There are three main areas within the structure - one for daytime, one for night and one for work. But the entire house shares the theme of curved walls, ovular storage spaces and womb-like connecting tunnels, with pot-hole windows lighting the tunnels.

Circular indentations in the tunnel walls are filled with sculptures (above) and there is plenty of seating too; clever use of colours, combined with natural daylight, give different lighting effects as you move from one area of the house to another. This entire property is astonishing, although potentially overwhelming and somewhat reminiscent of Bilbo Baggins home in Tolkein's Hobbit.

Every door and window in the house is unique, and offer different views of the garden. One of the most spectacular vistas is the mouth of the shark, which the owner used as his office. And another part of the attraction of the property is the collections of inanimate objects throughout - from shells and stones, to sculptures. The Senosiain family has also left behind all their clothing and personal effects, all displayed in the ovular storage spaces that are such a distinctive feature of the property.

Visiting the property is by prior arrangement ONLY and you can book online at Casa Organica It is open Wednesday to Saturday and the tour in English is at 10.30 in the morning on these days. Cost is $480 (Mexican pesos) per person and with the current Covid restrictions, tours are strictly limited to six in number, with mandatory face masks. Regrettably it is not suitable for disabled visitors as the both garden and house present difficulties for wheelchair users.

I was lucky enough to visit Casa Organica as part of a trip to Mexico City to the annual ZonaMaco art fair. I would thoroughly recommend staying at Octavia Casa in the leafy neighbourhood of Condesa because it is well located for sightseeing and restaurants.

Iconic British gardens - Beth Chatto Gardens, Essex

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Mon, 08 Jul 2019 11:00:00 +0000

Beth Chatto Gardens in springtime

It's always a pleasure to visit the Beth Chatto Gardens in Essex - a green oasis near Colchester, created from a once-neglected hollow between two farms, where owner and creator, Beth Chatto worked wonders in her lifetime. This garden is unique and has inspired visitors since it first opened in 1973, largely because of the late owner's expertise in placing plants in the right place. Sadly, she died in 2018, at the age of 94, but both gardens and nursery continue to thrive and many of us have at least one of her books on our shelves.

Beth Chatto, plantswoman extraordinaire, started creating this garden in 1960 with her husband Andrew. There was nothing here when they arrived more than 50 years ago, but they set to work to turn the seven-acre paradise that survives today from a boggy hollow and a plot that was arid elsewhere. Together they pioneered the idea of using plants adapted by nature to problem places, using shade-loving plants in areas with little direct light and drought-tolerant plants in dry places.

Water-loving plants thrive by the ponds throughout the year

Beth Chatto has become famous the world over for her planting philosophy. Her seminal books on dry, damp and shade gardening adorn shelves the world over and garden lovers who make the pilgrimage to her garden in Essex, can see for themselves how her planting schemes work, marvelling at the textures, shapes and arrangements of plants throughout the garden. Take a photograph anywhere and you will be amazed by the variety of plants in that small patch.

The Gravel Garden, created in 1991, has never been watered

The garden is divided into three main areas - the water garden with its five interlinking ponds, which is a profusion of damp-loving plants, already making progress early in the season; the celebrated Gravel Garden (above), started in 1991 as an experiment to see just how drought-loving plants would respond to one of the driest corners of Britain, and the woodland garden, which was as good as flattened during the 1987 hurricane, but now looks as though it's always been there. Each features plants that thrive naturally in damp, dry or shady conditions and the results inspire visitors from the world over.

All plants in the pond areas flourish throughout the summer are still thriving in October

Beth Chatto is to gardening and plants what Jane Austen is to romance in novels. She is already one of the great names in British horticulture and her garden is one to put on your wish list, along with Denmans (John Brookes), Great Dixter (Christopher Lloyd) and Barnsley House (Rosemary Verey) if you want to see how much influence a single gardener can have on planting and garden styles.

The woodland garden looks good throughout the season and you will find many interesting shade plants here

This garden is all about texture and foliage - you cannot possibly leave without inspiration! The nursery here is also excellent. I never leave without a car load of plants and all have thrived in my garden, thanks to Beth Chatto's ideas - because I have learned to plant them in the places where they will flourish.
For full details of opening times, admission prices and events at the garden, click here.

The best of Scottish Castle gardens - Cawdor

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Mon, 10 Jun 2019 11:21:00 +0000

Cawdor is a small castle near Inverness, with well-established gardens

Castles are synonymous with Scotland, but few have gardens like Cawdor (above), within a stone's throw of Inverness. This is less imposing than Dunrobin, considerably smaller and has a colourful, well-kept garden and a well-publicised association with Shakespeare's 'Macbeth', in which the principle character is made 'Thane of Cawdor'. It is also the main tourist attraction in this area, so make sure to arrive early to get ahead of the crowds.

The maze garden, with its spectacular laburnum planting in May

The castle is closely connected with the Thanes of Cawdor. 'Thane' is an ancient Scottish title, equivalent to Baron, and was once common across Scotland. It is thought that the third Thane of Cawdor started building the castle here as early as 1370, and it was later added to by successive generations. Records of the gardens date back to the 17th century, when the walled garden is first documented and much of the castle there today was already built.

The Paradise Garden in May

The castle has certainly made headlines in the past, thanks to various family feuds, and only re-opened to the public in 2003 following resolution of a major dispute. The Dowager Countess Cawdor (widow of the sixth Earl of Cawdor) still lives here and was instrumental in planning the gardens as they are today. There are three different garden areas to visit: the Walled, Flower and Wild gardens and, on two days a week, you can also visit another delightful small garden, which forms part of the estate, at neighbouring Auchindoune.

'The Sun' slate sculpture at Cawdor Castle by James Parker

You can also visit much of the interior of the castle, with its impressive trappings, and view the gardens laid out below. The formal gardens are to the side of the property, behind walls, but with fine views from the Flower Garden to the romantic castle beyond. Exuberant herbaceous predominate so there is colour throughout the seasons - particularly in July and August. Immaculately-clipped hedging divides the different sections of the garden, but what will impress most is the density of planting wherever you look. Rose enthusiasts will love the rose tunnel in season.

The Paradise section of the ancient walled garden at Cawdor

The ancient Walled Garden at the castle was remodelled by the incumbent Lord Cawdor in 1981, with the help of his surviving wife Angelika, the current Dowager Countess, and is very different in character to the Flower garden, save for the Paradise section (above), although equally well planned to give colour and interest throughout the seasons. There is a holly maze here too, surrounded by impressive laburnum arches and spectacular when in flower in May (above).

The neighbouring gardens at Auchindoune are very different in spirit

If you visit Cawdor Castle on a Tuesday or Thursday during high season - May to September - you can either walk or drive to neighbouring Auchindoune House (above), with its peaceful Tibetan garden and charming kitchen garden (below) which was laid out by Arabella Lennox-Boyd. It is very different in spirit and much less grand than the castle gardens, but well worth visiting.

The kitchen garden at Auchindoune was laid out by Arabella Lennox-Boyd

For full information on opening times and prices, please visit the Cawdor Castle website.

Best British Gardens - Levens Hall

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Thu, 30 May 2019 15:51:00 +0000

Levens Hall in Cumbria is one of my favourite gardens - set against the backdrop of an imposing, but extraordinarily well-preserved Elizabethan house, which is still privately owned - sitting at the heart of 10 acres of gardens and boasting the oldest topiary garden in the world. It is well worth going into this beautifully maintained house, which is open to the public, to see its lavish interior with oak panelling and ornate plasterwork; for the collection of antiques, paintings and textiles; and for the views of the exceptional surrounding garden.

Located in the heart of Cumbria, which has more than its fair share of beautiful gardens, parts of the main house date back to the 13th century. The gardens came later, and the first records date back to 1694 when Guillaume Beaumont (King James II's gardener at Hampton Court Palace) became involved in their design at the request of the owner. Well-known English garden writer, Patrick Taylor, says "he laid out a feast of topiary" and describes the effect as "phantasmagoric" in his book about the great gardens of Britain.

Today they are the oldest surviving topiary gardens in the world and I think that once visited, few would be brave enough to dispute Taylor's claim as "the best". Late spring is always a good time and sees the topiary and hedges freshly clipped after a Herculean six-month cutting session carried out by head gardener, Chris Chowder and his team. The gardens look fresh and inviting at this time of year, although the borders are still in their infancy. But even as summer progresses the garden team re-plant the topiary gardens, so there is always a good display.

The garden is flourishing under the stewardship of Chowder and the owners and some of its newer features are beginning to flourish, including the willow labyrinth (planted in 2009); the beautifully-tended herbaceous borders; the vegetable garden and the beech circle, with its fountain garden (above). There is also an orchard and a herb garden. And new to Levens Hall this year is the Levens Kitchen - a restaurant using both locally-sourced produce and what is grown in the garden.

Levens Hall is open from Easter until October - for full details of timings and admission prices, click here. There are also other notable gardens nearby to visit if you're in the area.

Bevis Bawa's Sri Lankan masterpiece - The Brief Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Sat, 13 Apr 2019 07:46:00 +0000

Sri Lanka is a plantsman's paradise. Located at the tip of India and hanging like a tear drop from the mainland, it offers lush green landscapes, leafy vistas and acres of forest where elephants roam free. The whole country is a garden, fringed with perfect beaches and populated by smiling locals. Foreigners have formed an integral part of its long history and it was variously colonised by the Portuguese, Dutch (very briefly the French) and the British. Ceylon, as it was previously known, only gained independence in 1948 and became Sri Lanka in 1972, but then became the battle field for one of the worst civil wars in history, which left the country in ruins. The war only ended in 2009 and the country is still re-shaping itself, but is now one of the most popular holiday destinations in the world.

But this troubled history did not deter plantsman nor gardeners. Sri Lanka has historically produced fruit, vegetable and raw material crops that are unrivalled and there are man-made gardens too that draw visitors from around the world. These include several state-run botanical gardens (to be reviewed separately), showcasing the island's extraordinary range of plants; and two legendary private gardens created by well-known brothers - Bevis and Geoffrey Bawa - just a few miles apart from each other on the West Coast. The Brief Garden near Bentota was Bevis' brainchild, while Lunuganga is the former home and work of his brother, Geoffrey, the best-known of Sri Lanka's architects.

But it is Brief that won my heart this year - with its flamboyant planting and landscape features; skilful use of available space; and the clear signature of the openly gay and eccentric man who created it - Bevis Bawa. The site was originally a rubber plantation and Bevis moved here in 1929, when he was just 20. It is called "Brief" because his father purchased 200 acres of land as a result of a successful legal brief. Bevis, who did nothing by halves - even as a young man - built his home on the highest point of the property and then carved out his landscaped garden using just five acres of the plantation and leaving the rest as jungle.

If you want to visit Brief, take a tuk-tuk from Bentota, because it's a delightful ride through the countryside and the road meanders through small villages and paddy fields, past shops and local ladies trudging along in the heat with their ubiquitous black umbrellas providing shade from the sun. When you arrive at the garden you encounter a striking black and white front door, characteristic of all Bawa architecture, set into a startlingly-bright sunflower yellow wall (top).

If you're the only visitor, you may wonder what to do next, but don't worry, there's a bell by the door. Ring it during opening hours and someone will soon appear and sell you an entrance ticket for 1,000/- SLR, show you to the garden gate and then leave you to wander at leisure through the garden. Once inside you meander along jungle paths and encounter a grandiose Italianate staircase, hidden ponds and secret seating areas; erotic statuary is everywhere; a Japanese moongate (above) graces the back of the house; and as you wend your way, you'll encounter numerous exotic plants and trees that make you wish you knew more about Sri Lankan botany.

The house is also open to visitors and if you're lucky, you will meet Dooland de Silva, who has lived at Brief and curated the house and garden since Geoffrey's demise in 1992. He worked alongside Bawa for many years and helped create much of what you see there. He's a softly-spoken gentleman who is happy to answer your questions about the garden and the plants, but also a well-known landscape gardener in Sri Lanka, with many ongoing projects that take him away from Brief on a regular basis.

Once inside Bevis' home, you will be struck by its simplicity. Every room is simply furnished in plain colours. It is the doors, shutters, carefully chosen furniture and artwork that make the impact on the eye. Every window has a striking vista of the garden, and the embellishments like the grill (above) serve to emphasise the effect of the view. "Less is more" is an apt description of this peaceful property, surrounded by its stunning garden. But don't overlook the artwork - it's an eclectic collection of photographs of Bawa family life mixed with modern and traditional paintings and drawings.

Don't miss the rear of the house, with its charming sheltered balcony and garden (above) and the moongate leading to Bevis' private bathroom, known as the "Room with a View". Brief is open throughout the year from 8.00 until 17.00 (check website for details). Go early in the day to avoid the intense heat during the summer months and remember to take water with you.

Winter gardens to remember - Sir Harold Hillier Garden, Hampshire

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Tue, 06 Nov 2018 11:02:00 +0000

Interesting winter gardens are hard to find at this time of year, but the Sir Harold Hillier Garden near Romsey in Hampshire is an exception. And, if you visit this week, you'll be able to catch the "100 Years Remembering" exhibition of sugarpaste poppies in Jermyn House - all hand-crafted by Lyn Pearce and her students - to coincide with Remembrance Sunday.

Lyn Pearce and her students have handmade all the poppies, which look just like real flowers

There's still time to catch the autumn colours in the acer glade

Open daily except Christmas and Boxing Day, the gardens are open daily throughout the winter months from 10am to 5pm (last entry 4pm). Admission is £10.90 for adults; £9.90 concessions and children under five go free.

World's largest Victorian glasshouse re-opens at Kew Gardens

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Sun, 13 May 2018 09:36:00 +0000

Completion of a five-year restoration project, costing £41million, heralded the re-opening of the Temperate House at Kew Gardens at the beginning of May. Sir David Attenborough described it as a "breathtakingly beautiful space" and others have likened it to a 'botanical' cathedral in terms of its grandeur. But it's also an architectural masterpiece; an extraordinary engineering feat; a sight that shouldn't be missed; and an inspiring day-out.

The magnitude of the project is brought alive through the statistics published by Kew - 10,000 plants uprooted and replanted; enough scaffolding to stretch the full length of the M25; awesome quantities of paint; 15,000 glass panes replaced; 69,000 sections of components repaired or replaced; and five-years of work. The Temperate House first opened in 1863, causing visitors to stare in amazement then, and was closed 150 years later for refurbishment. Onlookers are once again gazing in awe!

It is both the light and spaciousness of the refurbished glasshouse that strikes you on entering, especially if you have already visited the Palm House en route, where the trees are brushing the top panes of glass and pathways through the palms are dark. But the plants here - many of them rare - will grow and it will be interesting to see how different the Temperate House looks in ten years time.

Visit soon and you'll be able to catch the meadow planting and naturalised tulips (above) en route to the new glasshouse and don't forget The Hive (below) - another architectural feat, that attracts visitors to these remarkable gardens. Kew Gardens are open every day. Admission is £16.00 for adults if you buy your tickets online.

10 best spring gardens 2018 (2) - West Green House, Hampshire

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Thu, 10 May 2018 16:15:00 +0000

It's been too many years since I last visited West Green House garden in Hampshire, but a quick sprint around the property in the sunshine this week was sufficient to remind me just how special this garden is, with its magnificent moongate (above) and exceptional walled garden. Click here to read more about it from a previous posting. All pictures here were taken on my visit this week.

West Green House is open daily until the end of October (except Mondays and Tuesdays) 11.00-16.30. Admission is £8.00 for adults (National Trust members free).

10 best spring gardens 2018 (1) - Parham House, West Sussex

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Tue, 08 May 2018 08:44:00 +0000

In a new series, highlighting seasonal gardens, I shall be posting pictures of some of the best gardens to see throughout the season. Parham House in West Sussex has exceptional walled gardens and extensive parkland, surrounding an Elizabethan house, which is also open to the public. Definitely one to visit if you can get there! And the nursery is exceptional.

Open Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Sundays and Bank Holidays. House open 14.00-17.00. Garden open 12.00-17.00. Last admission 16.30. £11.00 for house and gardens; £9.00 for gardens; children free under 5 years. Historic Houses Association and RHS members can enjoy free entry to the gardens on standard open days.

Oh to be in England ... 10 of the greatest spring and early summer gardens around the UK

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 25 Apr 2018 18:03:00 +0000

There's nothing quite like an English garden in springtime, so in my first post for a long time, I'm highlighting some of the properties that are really worthwhile visiting before the end of May if you possibly can. Special emphasis is placed on properties that are members of the Historic Houses Association (HHA), because you will cover your membership (£50.00 per year) by visiting more than five properties in a year, so well worth joining if you're an avid garden visitor.

The best show of tulips anywhere in the South East surely goes to Pashley Manor (above) in East Sussex, which holds an annual Tulip Festival in the spring. It has just started (24 April) and runs until 8 May, open from 10.00-17.00 daily. But although Pashley is a member of the HHA, you cannot use your membership during any special event, so you will have to pay the full £11.00 to get in, but it's well worth it for the spectacular displays of tulips on offer.

Borde Hill has spectacular blossoms in springtime and wonderful walks for all the family

Borde Hill in West Sussex is another notable spring garden, with its fantastic magnolias, followed by rhododendrons - well worth a visit at any time during the open season, but particularly stunning in springtime when the magnolias are in flower and the summer months as the roses bloom. Free to HHA members; opening hours are 10.00-17.00 daily and 18.00 at weekends.

Great Dixter, former home of champion gardener, Christopher Lloyd (above) is another one for the wishlist if you want swathes of colour in springtime (and indeed, throughout the summer). The garden palette changes constantly under the stewardship of Fergus Garrett and you will be astounded by just how many plant combinations there are in a single garden. Open Tuesday to Sunday and Bank Holiday Mondays, it's well worth making several trips to see how the garden transforms throughout the seasons. Free to HHA members.

Parham House in Sussex - another must see - with its fabulous walled garden and pleasure grounds. Starting with a riot of tulips in April and May, this is garden notable for its colour scheme and ebullient planting, set against the backdrop of an Elizabethan house that's open to the public. Make sure you climb the viewing platform for the best views! Open on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Sundays and Bank Holidays, with admission to the gardens starting at midday and to the house at 14.00, Parham is another HHA property, so free to members.

Not to be missed if you're in or around London is the Gertrude Jekyll garden, surrounding a magnificent Arts and Crafts house at Vann (above), near Godalming in Surrey. Lovingly tended by owner, Mary Caroe, who is often to be found in the garden, it opens on Wednesdays from April until the end of June - 10.00-18.00. Notable features besides the planting include the water garden and the pergola.

Moving further west, Painswick Rococo (above), as its name suggests, is unique and is the only garden of its kind in England. It is set in a valley and boasts impressive flower and fruit displays throughout the season. It is also steeped in history and with its enviable position in the heart of the Cotswolds, this HHA property is definitely one for a visit if you're in the area. Open daily until the end of October from 10.30-17.00.

Iford Manor (house not open to the public) in Wiltshire has a garden laid out by Harold Peto, who lived there for several decades after he bought the house in 1899. It is another unique property, where an Italianate garden (above) is laid out over terraces, and statuary abounds. It has been restored by the current owners and now hosts an impressive Arts and Opera programme throughout the summer months. Open Wednesday to Sunday, as well as Bank Holiday Mondays from 11.00-16.00 and free to HHA members.

To the north of London, Chenies Manor has tulip displays to rival Pashley Manor, but is free to HHA members throughout the season. Openings are restricted to Wednesdays and Thursdays between 14.00 and 17.00 so it can get very crowded, but still worth a visit if you're in the area.

Head north from here and make a special stopover at the Dorothy Clive Garden if you want to see colour displays that will astound you. Rhododendrons really flourish here and will leave a lasting impression on you. And the laburnum archway (above) is one of the best in England, so make sure you visit early in the season. This is the only garden here that is not an HHA member, but it's well worth paying the entrance fee. Open daily from 10.30 to 17.00, admission is £8.50 for an adult.

And just around the corner is Wollerton Old Hall, near Market Drayton (above), which has to be one of the jewels in the HHA crown, with its magnificent series of Arts and Crafts-influenced garden rooms that change throughout the seasons, starting with amazing tulip displays in springtime. But here too, opening hours are restricted to 12.00-17.00 on Fridays and Sundays throughout the season, and Thursdays during high summer.

Visit any of these gardens in the next few weeks and you won't be disappointed!

All photographs are subject to copyright.If you wish to use them, please contact the author direct at: thegallopinggardener@gmail.com

Top picks at RHS Hampton Court 2017

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 05 Jul 2017 08:27:00 +0000

The exhibit that really caught my eye at this year's RHS Hampton Court Flower Show was "The Charleston Garden" (above) - one of three very different 'potted' landscapes exhibiting under the Great Gardens of the USA banner. Wonderful planting, a fountain that you cannot miss, and a sense of serenity that you'd expect to find in the deep south.

The Kinetica conceptual garden, designed by John Warland is a striking display of colour and simple planting - a must-see if you're into primary colours!

Watch out for some of the smaller displays at Hampton Court this year - I was particularly struck by the simplicity of the Freddie's Flowers stand (just around the corner from the Charleston garden) - displaying the glorious flowers you can have delivered to your front door.

Watch out for those monster cabbages in the RHS Kitchen Garden - wonderful displays of organic edibles that you can certainly grow at home!

"By the Sea", designed by James Collicot (seated above) is charming garden, as is its sister landscape "Fun on Sea" and certainly another favourite for me, but with a really special twist as it was built on a low budget using many up-cycled materials and presented by the Southend-on-Sea Youth Offending Team - what a great way to use all that energy!

Brownfield Metaphorphosis (above) is part of the 'Gardens for a Changing World' category at Hampton Court this year and is designed to emphasise the unexpected 'beauty' of Britain's brownfield sites - certainly an eye-catcher, although you might not have room for this at home!

Don't miss the floral displays in both the large tents on site - you'll see some amazing sights, including this one! There's roses galore in one marquee, incredible floral fantasies in another and of course, the main marquee. Great for sheltering from the rain if you need to!

The big attraction at the Perennial garden is the fantastically painted dancing couple, representing the myriad of colours perennials offer in the garden. But step inside and look at the planting - it's perfect!

And if you don't have space for some of the wonderful ideas at home - stop in at the Easigrass stand on your way into the show and marvel at their living walls!

The RHS Hampton Court Flower Show is open all this week and is well worth a visit, especially in this wonderful weather.

Wordless Wednesday - Rainy day at Hidcote Manor

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 17 May 2017 18:58:00 +0000

Torrential rain and low-lying cloud makes for an interesting visit to Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire

Postcard from Tbilisi, Georgia

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Mon, 08 May 2017 11:08:00 +0000

Tbilisi, Georgia - an amazing city

Living wall in Tbilisi

Bridge of Peace, Tbilisi

Street art - it's everywhere in Tbilisi

Very few words today, just pictures as I've returned from Tbilisi in Georgia and am sorting through my photographs for a post later this week. Much to tell and weather was wonderful!

Wednesday Walkabout - Great Gardens of Scotland

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Tue, 25 Apr 2017 21:43:00 +0000

En route to Glasgow - over the clouds, somewhere in the Lake District

The Pineapple - an extraordinary architectural feat, on the way to Edinburgh

Pitmuies - a captivating garden on the way to Aberdeen

Edzell Castle - a ruin with attitude, helped by the bright blue skies

Crarae - a Himalayan garden in the heart of Argyll and Bute - coming into bloom at this time of year

Benmore Botanic Garden - famous for its magnificent trees

Garden of Cosmic Speculation open to public on 30 April 2017

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Sun, 23 Apr 2017 15:03:00 +0000

Charles Jenck's Garden of Cosmic Speculation - the Holy Grail of Scottish gardens - is open to the public for just one day this year - next Sunday, 30 April - as part of the open scheme arranged by Scotland's Gardens.

I've been lucky enough to visit twice in the last five years - once on an open day in 2012, and again last year on a garden tour with a very small group. The single open day means that it can get very crowded and although adequate parking is provided, it's advisable to arrive early to find a place close to the gardens. As parking is in a field, it can be VERY muddy, so do take suitable footwear!

Entrance to the open day is £10.00 (£5.00 concessions) and if you click on the Scotland's Gardens website link (above), full details are available about purchasing tickets in advance and on the gate. Well worth making a special trip for, even if it is very crowded on the day!

Wednesday Walkabout - Driftwood, East Sussex

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Tue, 18 Apr 2017 23:30:00 +0000

Geoff Stonebanks' garden is definitely one for the "Wishlist" this summer - Driftwood is a tiny plot in Seaford, East Sussex, filled with innovative ideas and perfect planting. It opens from 1 June for groups, by arrangement and on designated days for charity (see website link above for details). Keep your eyes open and don't miss the finer details of this extraordinary garden. Every penny raised from openings goes to charity and Geoff has already collected more than £76,000. You certainly won't be disappointed when you visit and you know your donation is going to a good cause. Happy visiting!

Wednesday Walkabout - Spring gems in Sussex and Kent - Great Dixter, Gravetye Manor, Michelham Priory and The Walled Nursery

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 12 Apr 2017 09:19:00 +0000

Great Dixter in East Sussex is always worth a visit - it's a jewel garden filled with colour throughout the season

Spring is sprung and gardens around the garden are awash with colour. There's always an incredible display of tulips at Great Dixter at this time of year - which marks just the beginning of another season of extraordinary eye candy at this wonderful garden, where head gardener, Fergus Garrett reigns supreme to ensure that every visitor leaves ecstatic! He worked alongside garden guru and owner, Christo Lloyd for many years and carries on the tradition of vibrant planting established by his mentor.

William Robinson lived at Gravetye Manor and created the original gardens - Tom Coward has brought them back to life during his successful seven-year stewardship here

And not too far away, there's another amazing Sussex garden, under the stewardship of Tom Coward, who worked alongside Fergus at Great Dixter, before moving seven years ago to another legendary garden - Gravetye Manor - one-time home of William Robinson. Tom has done a remarkable job of restoring and rejuvenating the landscape here and it's a must-see garden - a great place to have afternoon tea and then take a wander round.

Geoff Stonebanks' garden is an utterly delightful micro garden overlooking the sea in East Sussex

Another Sussex gem that opens regularly for charity, thanks to the extraordinary energy and effort of owner, Geoff Stonebanks, is Driftwood in Seaford, but check opening dates below. This is a magical micro garden overlooking the sea, filled with interesting plants and quirky, interesting ideas - rest assured, you'll never catch them all in a single visit. Check out Geoff's webpage here to see when the garden's open. You won't be disappointed.

Michelham Priory is in the heart of the East Sussex countryside near Hailsham and well worth a visit

Michelham Priory, near Hailsham is flourishing under head gardener, James Neal's care and is alive this week with tulips. A really good choice for children over the Easter holidays as there is a number hunt to keep them occupied and masses of space to run around in, while the grown ups can enjoy the bucolic setting of the priory and its grounds.

The Walled Nursery at Hawkhurst, Kent has a wonderful cafe if you're out plant hunting

And if you're putting your best foot forward on the hunt for plants and want to follow an interesting restoration project that's underway, head for The Walled Nursery near Hawkhurst in Kent, close enough to combine with Great Dixter or Sissinghurst. There's delicious food at The Winery Cafe on site and some interesting plants.

Wednesday Walkabout - Wakehurst Place

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 05 Apr 2017 05:22:00 +0000

Well worth a walkabout, especially in springtime - Wakehurst Place in Sussex - where you'll find ideas for your own garden: trees and plants to marvel at; the Millennium Seedbank (worth a visit on a rainy day); and wonderful walks throughout the year. This is Kew in the countryside at its best!

Get there as soon as possible to see all the magnificent magnolias in flower, rhododendrons and a lot more besides. The shots below are just a snapshot of what's in flower now.

Open daily from 10.00 -18.00 (Last entry 17.00). The Millennium Seedbank is a working scientific hub that aims to conserve 25% of the world's plant species by 2020. Admission is £12.50 for adults, free to National Trust members.

Silent Sunday - Postcard from Mallorca

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Sun, 02 Apr 2017 09:10:00 +0000

In search of wildflowers in Mallorca, but just a little distracted by all the colours here!

Magnificent magnolias for Mother's Day

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Sat, 25 Mar 2017 10:58:00 +0000

High Beeches Gardens in West Sussex is a remarkable woodland garden

We're all getting ready for Mother's Day - buying flowers, arranging lunch or an outing, but why not take your mother somewhere really special this Sunday? Choose a garden, walk around and admire the magnificent magnolias in bloom - they are really special flowers that will leave a lasting impression! And there are some fantastic gardens in the South-East of England that are easily accessible.

High Beeches Gardens, south of London, have some of the best magnolias on display anywhere and offer the chance to take a woodland walk that takes in fantastic rhododendrons, swaying daffodils and views that will leave you astonished. Open from 13.00 this Sunday, specially for Mother's Day and it's well worth a visit.

You'll find more magnificent magnolias and rhododendrons at Borde Hill, with the former in flower and the latter beginning to bloom (and so early this year, that the garden has opened a week ahead of schedule to enable visitors to truly enjoy the visual delights on offer).

In Hampshire, there's the Sir Harold Hillier Gardens, with its extensive magnolia collection close to the main house at the heart of the garden.

And of course, there's always Kew Gardens, on the fringes of London, with its own collection of these wonderful trees and magnificent glasshouses. And if you're visiting, don't forget to marvel at The Hive - an amazing artform in the middle of the garden.

And look out for other spring marvels at all these gardens, including carpets of flowers

But let's not forget, if it hadn't been for the formidable plant explorers who travelled far and wide in centuries gone by, we would not have any of these magnificent trees here in the UK.

Happy Mother's Day and let's hope the sun shines!

Wordless Wednesday - 8th wonder of the world - the mobile phone

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:31:00 +0000

It doesn't matter how far off the beaten track you are, you'll still find a mobile phone!

"Garden of Eden" in Kerala - Amaryllis Homestay

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Thu, 02 Feb 2017 14:14:00 +0000

Evening view from the veranda at Amaryllis, looking down into the valley below

If you're in search of the "Garden of Eden", look no further than Kerala, in the hills near Wayanad, where you'll find Amaryllis Homestay - another peaceful haven away from the frenetic pace of daily life in India. This is Victor and Ranjini Dey's home, in a prime location, overlooking a fertile, green valley, where they welcome guests from all over the world into their productive coffee plantation.

Victor has lived the plantation life since he was a young man, when he first arrived in Kerala from Calcutta, aged 20, and started working in a tea plantation near the well-known hill station, Ooty. His monthly stipend was a mere 250 Indian Rupees (a little over £3.00 at today's exchange rates) although he only brought home less than half of this to his new bride Ranjini, after other deductions. He still keeps a copy of his wages slip in the bar at Amaryllis to remind him of those days.

Victor has worked in the industry for 50 years now, managing tea, coffee and cardamom crops on different plantations, but most recently at the Kuppamudi Estate, which is also home to another popular Wayanad tourist property called Tranquil. But in 2006, they chanced upon the site that is now Amaryllis and when they saw the view (see below) from the plot they'd discovered, they knew this was the perfect place for their new home.

Building started in 2008 when they brought in the necessary equipment to level the top of the hill and four years later, construction was finished. But Victor continued to work as manager at the neighbouring Kuppamudi Estate and it was not until January 2016 that they opened to guests. What you see there today is a tribute to their combined efforts - a magnificently-run home, with far reaching views. But particularly noteworthy is Victor's clever use of local woods to decorate their home.

On the day we arrived, I didn't recognise the coffee plants because they were all bearing white blossoms (above), rather than the familiar reddish pods (below). But Victor explained that the harvest doesn't normally finish until mid to late February and this year is unusual because there has been unseasonal regional rain, which has encouraged the plants to blossom early.

Once the blossom fully opens, it will remain open for three days and produce a jasmine-like smell before beginning to dry out in the sun, sticking to the small berry that's forming there and providing protection throughout the hot summer months and monsoon season.And so another coffee berry cycle begins, with the pod continuing to grow for a further 9-10 months and finally being harvested the following year when it has reached full size.

Wander around the grounds at Amaryllis and you will find many other delights, including pepper creeping up the trees; Artocarpus heterophyllus - the "Jack" fruit tree, with its monumental green fruit blooms; and a plethora of tropical plant delights, as well as hundreds of potted plants that decorate the terraces.

But it's the homestay experience that makes Amaryllis so special. Both Victor and Janjini have many years of experience in the hospitality industry, after their long stint at nearby Tranquil. They are charming hosts and they run a wonderful home. Most of the bedrooms are in the main house, but for a really special experience, stay in one of the two tree houses on site (see below), both constructed of local bamboo.

Amaryllis is one of the new-generation Indian homestays that promises to make travelling here easier for visitors seeking a combination of comfort and local interest. Beautifully furnished rooms, wonderful home cooking and efficient bathrooms. Victor and Jini take great pride in their home and extend their hospitality to all their guests. I for one, will be return ing next time I visit Kerala.

Windermere – a jewel in the Indian plantation crown

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Mon, 30 Jan 2017 08:52:00 +0000

Munnar, one of Kerala’s most popular hill stations, is located high in the Western Ghats of southern India. It is home to tea, coffee and cardamom plantations; making for luxurious landscapes; verdant vistas; and, if you find the right place to stay, a welcome break from the frantic hustle and bustle of everyday life in India.

Parts of Windermere are reminiscent of European gardens

One of Munnar’s best-kept secrets is the Windermere Estate – a long-established, 60-acre cardamom and coffee plantation owned by the Simon family since 1987. Today it is also run as a delightful, discreet 18-room plantation home, where guests are welcomed into a friendly environment, treated as part of the family and given delicious home-cooked food, astounding views, a carefully-tended garden filled with interesting plants, and an opportunity to explore the plantation on your doorstep, as well as the incredible tea fields around you.

Part of the charm of the garden at Windermere is the mix of sub-tropical plants and English flowers

The name is attributed to the well-known and much-visited place in England – Windermere – because a former houseguest of the previous owner, Mr I.C. Chacko, who was part of the Indian Civil Service under the British Raj – commented that the view from his window reminded him of our much-loved Lake District back home.

Visitors will see many birds here including the red-cheeked bulbul

Munnar is located in the Idukki district of Kerala and is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It was once the summer resort of the British Government in south India, but today is a popular visitor destination for both foreigners and domestic tourists. Any reader familiar with Charles Jencks’ work, would be forgiven for thinking that perhaps he gained inspiration for some of his incredible forms from the tea plantations here.

No visitor can fail to be impressed by the extra-ordinary landscape here, with tea plants covering every available inch of land in the region. The tea plant is actually part of the Camellia family (Camellia sinensis) and the top two inches of the shrub – known as flushes – grow every 15 days. And as Windermere owner, Dr John Simon, explains: “The most common types of tea available in the market are white, green and black tea. The only difference is how they are processed.”

So a visit to the Lockhart Tea Museum is a must, to see just how the process works. It's a short 8-kilometre drive from the estate and your hosts will arrange it for you.

The visual experience of the tea plantations is quite extraordinary - was Charles Jencks inspired by them?

Cardamom doesn’t have the visual appeal of tea, with its unwieldy leaves and stringy appearance, but it is known as the “Queen of all spices” and is a labour-intensive crop, needing highly skilled management and well-trained workers to yield a good harvest. It is sensitive to moisture, light and temperature and is grown at an optimum altitude of 600-1500 metres, in regions with an average rainfall of 1500-4000mm.

You will see tea growing everywhere you look in Munnar ... and it's a wonderful sight

You can read more about the Windermere Estate here, but if you are travelling to this part of India, do consider this as one of your stopovers and for a couple of days, so you can fully appreciate the plantation life and the magnificent scenery. It is an easy destination to combine with both Cochin on the west coast and Kumbakonam further east.

Postcard from Kumbakonam, Tamil Nadu

noreply@blogger.com (Charlotte Weychan) — Mon, 23 Jan 2017 05:47:00 +0000

A wonderful sojourn at the Mantra Veppathur, with its striking greenery, beautiful clean and simple rooms and gentle, helpful staff. Another magical property to add to your wishlist when in Southern India.