Vehicle Repair, Maintenance, Accessories, Travel & more

Make Money Online: Diversify Your Income Streams

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Tue, 09 Jun 2009 22:47:00 +0000

Make Money Online: Diversify Your Income Streams

As this blog states, online earnings take a tremendous amount of work and does not immediately pay off. Sooner or later a widespread presence on the web in the form of your own website or two, several of your own blogs and a well known presence on forums, social sites, etc will begin to pay off.

Scrub paid coaching and paid traffic generation because that's wasted money you could benefit from elsewhere. With the linking techniques you can learn over time, paid links exchanges are quickly becoming outdated too, and costs you money better spent elsewhere.

For me, SEO and Social Networking are the hardest to get right partially because of the ever changing Google and other search engine's way of conducting searches and because my niche and interests really doesn't fit into many Social Sites' theme etc.

Keyword strategies, as explained by so called SEO experts and with the keywords provided by most keyword tools, are somewhat largely a joke for the just beginning site. Long tail keywords, strategically placed within your money generation pages, will do much more than the 1 or 2 keywords provided by the so called SEO experts and many keyword tools, when first beginning your site and beyond.

Informative blogs like this one, Make Money Online....., will lead you in the right direction, but be very careful and don't overdo it, and don't do it real rapidly where Social Networking is concerned. Find and contribute to a forum like one of About.com's forums where you have expertise or interests. These posts will provide a link to your site(s) for every post if set up correctly. Three to five links per day of contributions add up quickly and carry a lot of weight with Google.

www.huntfishcampworld.com

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Sun, 18 Jan 2009 18:40:00 +0000

For various reasons including the current economic recession, www.huntfishcampworld.com has been delayed from it's real publishing to the web. If you enter the URL into your browser in search of this site, what you get is only a placebo to what the site will ultimately be. The products you will see are not really the products we have to offer.

We are working hard to finish this site and it should be completed (unless unforeseen circumstances intervene) within a few weeks. Depending on the speed our site's final preparation receives by the company who will do the final things to our site, this site should be published well in advance of the spring camping/fishing/outdoor season.

We have discontinued www.hpgiftnhome.com

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Sun, 18 Jan 2009 17:36:00 +0000

Due to our canceling our relationship with the supplier and the lack of a suitable alternative supplier, we have decided to pull hpgiftnhome.com from it's internet spot entirely.

In the future, we will possibly replace the site hpgiftnhome.com with a site (and a blog to go along with it) offering only the unique books (offered as ebooks) from a specific author. In fact, we are currently doing the research necessary to build a successful site for this purpose, and we are even beginning tentative building of this site. We already offer one of these books on the website http://www.hastprotrucks.com and plan to offer the others there as well just as soon as the books are finished.

These books are not the typical ebooks written in a couple of hours writing time, they are real books that take months and months to write, proof read, edit and finally publish. The first book entitled "Tire trouble? Handling problems?" (a DIY technical book for heavy vehicles) was in the planning and writing stages for well over a year before it was eventually edited then published. We have gotten very good feedback from everyone that has purchased & read the book.

Ebooks have gotten a bad rap from all those really useless ebooks on the web today, but our ebooks are real books, they are just offered in ebook format. We publish and promote them through our company Hastpro, so the cost of publishing and promotion is held to a minimum. We use the popular Adobe PDF format to publish these ebooks so they are and will be compatible with all computer operating systems.

If we indeed introduce such a site and blog, we will post the URLs here well before actually shutting down this blog.

Truck tent - A personal experience

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Mon, 08 Sep 2008 16:50:00 +0000

When you talk about and think about purchasing a truck tent, one personal experience comes to mind involving a Sportz truck tent. It was on an overnight fishing trip to a small lake about 80 miles from my home. I own a travel trailer but I also needed to pull my boat trailer on small gravel roads and small State highways without a shoulder. I decided to use my truck tent because pulling tandem trailers was not at all realistic.

In the wee hours of the morning, a violent storm containing a tornado (tornado did not touch down at my camping site) and very heavy rain/wind came directly over my camp site. I was asleep inside the truck tent when the storm hit. The wind whipped at the tent and pickup violently and the rain was so heavy it almost sank my exposed boat.

That truck tent weathered that storm just fine and I stayed high and dry inside it. I was completely sold on Sportz truck tents from that moment on.

I attribute some of the tent's stability on it's very strong bungee type tie downs positioned at the base of each pole end anchored to the truck by strong hooks. Other bungee type tie downs attach forward and rearward further stabilizing the tent The stretched bungee tie downs tend to keep tension on the tie down points constantly even in heavy wind. Since the tent is not staked out in soft ground but attached to the truck with those stretched bungee tie downs, it is so much more stabile than a ground tent.

Since I was pickup bed height off the ground, even the heavy rain could not flood the floor of the tent nor did the tent leak anywhere.

These Sportz truck tents and Camp Right truck tents, designed & purchased to fit most any pickup truck, are available at http://www.hastprotrucks.com

Introducing www.huntfishcampworld.com

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:49:00 +0000

We want to make you all aware of a new Hastpro site that should be on the net sometime in September. The URL of this site is set in stone and will be http://www.huntfishcampworld.com

The wide array of products will follow all the topics indicated by the URL plus other outdoors products. Over time, we plan to expand this site to include many categories and products, some of which are not generally available at most brick and mortar stores.

New line of products on www.hastprotrucks.com

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 14:16:00 +0000

We just published the new line of products along with our ebook on http://www.hastprotrucks.com

This new line includes Truck, Car & SUV Tents from two different manufacturers, versatile top & rear carriers by CampRight/PackRight, top carrier accessories and vehicle cargo boxes & organizers. We added a new page to our site to where anyone can check out fitment of a truck, car or SUV tent before they make the initial purchase.

A new DIY repair/maintenance ebook will soon be available on this site. The title of this ebook will be : Basic Vehicle & Equipment Operating Systems & Components.

We intend to expand the product line to include vehicle accessories of various types, camping accessories or gear to compliment the vehicle tents and maybe some hunting and fishing gear to also compliment the vehicle tents.

Getting trained as an auto mechanic

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Fri, 15 Feb 2008 08:15:00 +0000

One of my articles appearing at: http://www.helium.com/tm/818342/perfect-example-someone-wants

My life is a perfect example for someone who wants to go into the automotive mechanical field but does not really have the money to almost completely quit work and attend a formal school.
You see, my dad was a small engine and automotive mechanic who taught me a lot. When I graduated high school, my dream was to become an aviation maintenance technician but it required a minimum of two years at a full time school.

My dad and mother or I couldn't afford the added expense with almost no income from me, so that dream went by the way side. I desperately needed a source of decent income so as an alternative I couldn't wait to become a truck driver. A couple of short lived jobs later, that was exactly where I found myself. That job also carried along the responsibility of some maintenance work on the trucks I drove (a tradition of sorts back then). So did the next few driving jobs. Those experiences as a truck driver proved invaluable later in life.

I finally decided truck driving was not for me so I tried my hand at several other occupations and finally wound up working at a commercial tree nursery where I again found myself taking on mechanical responsibilities, even taking some formal training at a nearby technical school. Seems I couldn't stay clear of mechanics whether it was on mine, a relative or friends vehicle, or on the job working on a truck, tractor, ditching machine or you name it.

My brother tried his hand at a shop of his own and I decided to help for a while. This really began my career as a full fledged mechanic. About three years later I started to work for a large truck dealership in a neighboring city. 25 years later I was still in the big truck field, but along the way I became a highly trained ASE certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Bus Technician. I didn't turn down any opportunity at further training and certification, Let me tell you, that led me all over a great part of the US going to first this school and that school. A blank wall in my house will barely hold the certificates I collected.

I guess the message here is to get on board any job that will subject you to the mechanical field if the funds are not available to attend a technical school. Then get as much training as you can anywhere you can, and the auto field will just happen for you if you have the mindset for it along with the drive to take that next step.

Automotive mechanics of caliber don't just happen along, making them in big demand and the demand is getting bigger all the time. Especially where the electronic world is concerned. Computers and electronics are an increasingly large part of all automotive applications today and will be even more a part of it tomorrow. Some training in those areas is certainly advisable.

A description I keep hearing from people in the know (and I agree), is that a person who is both mechanical minded AND computer/electronics savvy will get to the point of earnings akin to airline pilots and beyond. A huge demand for these people already exists.

One final thought, start right now putting together your tools and toolboxes because they cost thousands and most shops require you provide your own tools to a certain degree. A weekly allowance for tool purchases is the only way to go for a person serious about becoming any kind of automotive mechanic.

Some places where you can get a job and both receive the background and training necessary to become a full blown auto technician is listed below:

WalMart, Sears & other auto service centers
Tire shops (they also do light to medium auto mechanics)
Taxi & limousine services
Bus companies
Public School shops
City, county & State shops
Trucking & delivery companies (including such as UPS, Fed Ex, etc.)
Auto service centers in general
Exhaust repair shops
Auto glass companies
Radiator repair shops
Driveline repair shops
Alternator & starter re-builders
Transmission & rear axle re-builders
Engine re-builders
And the list go on.

You see, the possibilities are there. All you need to do is get in there and dig while being open to any and all chances to advance.

Properly Jump Starting A Vehicle

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:55:00 +0000

This article was written by Jerry Hastings & appears on www.helium.com, www.diggs.com, www.del.icio.us.com & www.hastprotrucks.com/forum

There are several things to consider and be aware of when jump starting a car for both safety's sake as well as the well being of the car that provides the jump start. Proper jumping techniques should be followed to reduce the strain on the starter of the car being jumped too.

Here are two very important things one should be aware of beforehand. The possibility exists that the car with the dead battery has an internal short in it's battery. The possibility of a spark while hooking the cables to a discharged battery can cause an explosion.

In the first mentioned scenario, a shorted battery can fry the "jumper's" alternator in seconds as well as pose the problem of a potential explosion. If the dead battery obviously wasn't caused by an electrical device or lights being left on without the engine running, jump starting may not be the best solution. If the dead battery does not even click the starter relay, further diagnosis will be in order BEFORE hooking up the jumper cables!

In the first and second scenarios, a discharged battery emits very explosive gases that could be ignited by the spark from the jumper cables while connecting them. There are alternate means to connect the jumper cables that greatly lessens the chance of an explosion.

First, hook up the cables to the car providing the jump start (red to the positive terminal and black or stripped to the negative terminal) while at the same time keeping the opposite ends of the jumper cables separated from each other. Next, hook up the red cable to the positive terminal on the car's battery that needs the jump start, BUT, DO NOT hook up the negative battery jumper cable to the dead battery. Instead, hook it to a good ground (void of paint or rust) as far away from the dead battery as possible (ground - meaning an engine bolt head or metal bracket etc.).

Allow several minutes to pass with the running car charging up the dead battery some BEFORE trying to start the dead car. Bringing up the jumping car's RPM a little will speed up this charging time. After 5-10 minutes of recharge time, try momentarily to start the dead car. If it starts right up, great. If not, stop trying to start it and continue to allow more recharge time.

Starters will burn up from low voltage quickly! Absolutely do not crank the starter over for more than 30 seconds at a time (allow 3-5 minutes cooling time between times too). Also, on board engine controlling computers will not function correctly until the voltage during the starting process is adequate enough, therefore preventing the spark plugs from firing.

For safety's sake, unhook the jumper cables by removing the ground connection on the jumped car first, then the negative cable on the jumper's battery, that eliminates the temporary circuit formed by the jumper cables (and the possibility of shorting one jumper cable end against the other before final disconnection).

Despite popular belief, batteries will not recharge in 30 minutes or so. They require several hours to fully recharge at the amperage most car alternators are capable of. Also with today's cars that have constant drains on the battery by clocks etc., the battery really should be hooked to a charger at least overnight at first opportunity, unless the car is driven for quite a distance before killing the engine.

Suspected shorted batteries should be checked out using the proper equipment. Some battery chargers are so equipped, others are not. Make sure you heed any tool's instructions in regards to hooking and unhooking a discharged battery as well as instructions on how to properly check a battery's condition.

Treat an automotive battery with the respect you would an open container of gasoline when connecting or disconnecting one, or hooking up jumper cables. They can be just as deadly

Basic anatomy of an electrical relay-automotive

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 16:17:00 +0000

An post written by Jerry Hastings which also appears on www.hastprotrucks.com/forum

People are often confused by a relay and most importantly it's function and intended purpose. A relay is simply a switch like a toggle switch, but instead of manually toggling the switch, a relay uses electrical connections other than the "load" circuit to do the switching.

The 5 prong relay is a simple example. On one prong is the load's supply wire from either a positive electrical source or it could simply be to a good ground (providing a ground or negative connection instead of a positive connection). The corresponding prong is connected to the load (ie electrical motor, solenoid or other loads).

An entirely different circuit is then used to accomplish the switching action. This circuit is electrically separated from the load circuit. It consists of a good ground from the appropriate prong on the relay to the actual grounding location. The opposite prong on the relay is then connected to an electrical supply that is either a key operated positive supply or may be a supply generated by the action of another switching action of a related accessory. For simplicity we will call that positive and negative connection the "trigger" supply.

This "trigger" circuit can be negatively controlled if desired, but most of the time it is positively controlled. For simplicity we will use the positively controlled relay for further explanation.

When electrical current flows to the "trigger" prong on the relay (which necessitates utilization of the ground or negative connection), it causes a switching action to occur inside the relay which turns on the "load" circuit. This "trigger" circuit is a low amperage circuit meaning it is more friendly to actual connecting or activating items like the key switch or switch associated with another accessory than the "load" circuit. The "load" circuit is a relatively high amperage circuit.

The "trigger" circuit can also use smaller wires since it is a low amperage circuit unlike the "load" circuit which must use larger wires and larger amperage requirements. Smaller wires and low amperage are imperative in computer connections, wiper switches, light switches, etc.

If you find two fuses in the fuse panel that have the same label, the one with the smallest amperage rated fuse is on the "trigger" circuit and the high amperage fuse is on the "load" circuit.

Of course, larger vehicles like class 8 trucks often have their left and right headlamp circuits isolated from each other. That is primarily for safety reasons since one circuit can fail but the other stays functional. In that case, the fuses (or breakers) and relays are labeled "left headlamp" and "right headlamp".

More complicated relays are often found in todays cars and trucks which are capable of performing multiple tasks and/or controlling more than one load. These relays still function by the same principles as the simple 5 prong relay but can be configured to work on both the positive "triggering" and negative "triggering" circuits in the same relay.

Diagnosing suspension problems

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Mon, 17 Dec 2007 04:29:00 +0000

An article written by Jerry Hastings which appears on http://www.helium.com/, http://www.diggs.com/, http://www.del.ico.us.com/ & www.hastprotrucks.com/forum

Realizing that most people will likely be confused by the content of this article, what's real and what's not are two completely different things. First, I'll make an attempt to define the words "vehicle suspension", then I'll go through some of the particulars associated with how to diagnose suspension problems.

There are many different designs or versions of a particular design relating to suspensions that require more specific discussion and I (and I hope readers will) realize that fact. The following is a more or less generalized summary.

Vehicular suspensions are generally the components that your vehicle weight sets on, excluding wheel bearings, hubs and wheels (they are sort of in a class or classes by themselves). Such things as springs and spring hangers, struts, A-frames, kingpins and steering knuckles (or spindles & kingpins on straight front axles) and axles (where applicable) make up a vehicle's suspension.

Components such as ball joints, steering knuckles (or spindles & kingpins)and straight front axles play a dual role in that they are one of the links between the steering and the suspension. They pivot or allow pivoting making them part of the steering and support the vehicles weight making them part of the suspension.

Steering knuckles or spindles with kingpins and straight axles play a different part in steering in that wheel alignment angles are manufactured into these components along with the fact previously noted that they pivot or allow pivoting to turn the front wheels. Plus the wheel bearings, hubs and wheels are attached to these components making yet another link (or links). The additional unadjustable wheel alignment angles provided by these components, enhance steering quality and performance.

Rear axles on rear driven vehicles sort of fall into the category of suspensions but their role is unique in the scheme of things. Rear axles on front wheel drive vehicles can be considered suspension components but they also provide the link between wheel bearings, hubs and wheels.

When you really want to define the term "suspension", axles of all sorts really do not fit in the category completely, but are more in a class by themselves and generally shops and literature recognizes them that way.
Items like tie rods and tie rod ends, idler arms, pitman arms, control arms and other components all the way up to the steering wheel, fall under the classification of steering components exclusively and should not be confused with suspension components.

However, for the sake of those that need a little insight on how to check for wear in steering components, I will add these suggestions. Slack in these steering components can best be found by leaving the vehicle weight on the wheels and observing each component while a helper turns the steering wheel slowly back and forth only the amount necessary to cause some movement. Normally slack in steering components can be felt as slack at the steering wheel. If that is the case, turning the steering wheel back an forth only as far as the amount slack present will help locate the source of that slack.

Ball joints and kingpins usually wear to some extent especially if the wrong type of grease is used or the frequency of grease jobs are not adequate enough. Slack results from this wear. A normal cheap real grease is better than a high dollar synthetic grease for these and all suspension and steering components. The only place synthetic grease should be used is in the wheel bearings. I know, the advertisements says this or that but advertisements are sometimes far from reality.

Two people are required for a lot of suspension diagnosis techniques, especially in the absence of specialized equipment. Most of the following require two people. One to provide movement of the part in question and the other to watch the part for any signs of slack.

Upper ball joints are the easier of the two to check for slack. Simply jack the weight off the wheels while a friend observes the movement in the ball joints (other than pivoting movement). Lower ball joints may require a pry bar placed under the wheel or through holes in the wheel while the vehicle is jacked up, and prying upward or inward while observing the lower ball joint for the same type of movement.

While large differences in an A-frame or straight front axle and a strut type front suspension exists, many of these suggestions will also apply to strut types. The front spring and strut are an assembly and therefore must be diagnosed as such. Check for abnormal slack in much the same way as used on ball joints.

Straight front axles with kingpins must be checked in two directions for slack. Jack the vehicle up securely (sometimes a large vehicle weighing many times as much as a small car-heavy duty jack stands are recommended), then push hard sideways on the top of each tire while observing for any abnormal movement in the kingpin area. Next place a long prybar under the tire and pry upward while observing for any abnormal movement between the axle eye and the spindle
(up and down movement).

Excessive slack observed while pushing on the top of the tire is a result of kingpin and bushing wear. Excessive slack while prying up on the tire is a result of bearing or shim wear (bearing between the axle and spindle on the bottom side of the axle and shims between the axle and spindle on the upper side of the axle-the kingpin is through both).

If the vehicle sets lower than it used to or leans to one side, spring fatigue may well be the problem. However, care should be exercised to eliminate frame damage (many cars and light trucks have unibodies-not frames per se). Did some sort of trauma happen to the vehicle or is there door and/or window sealing problems? This could also signal frame or unibody damage.

Unusual tire wear, especially on the front, may be a sign of suspension problems but cannot be depended on exclusively. For instance, wear on the inside of the tires is a sign of excessive ball joint or kingpin wear and resulting slack BUT may be from several other wheel alignment problems instead.

Tire dipping can be a contributing factor of shock problems BUT may also be tire and wheel imbalance or out of roundness. Shimmy in the front is usually from a bent wheel, out of round tire (dipping as a result), extreme tire/wheel imbalance or other out of round causing problems.

Although shocks are lumped into the suspension category, they really are not part of a suspension. They are just another link from the body or frame to the axle or suspension and who's function is to control bounce and/or sway. Problems with shocks are usually self evident. Excessive leaning during turns, excessive vehicle bouncing, clunking noises and more are signals that the shocks need replaced.

Perhaps one of the most ignored areas of a vehicle's suspension is the rear spring eye bushing and pin or the pin hole in the spring hanger as well as loose hanger to frame bolts. Wear and slack in one or more of those areas can cause a myriad of handling or wheel alignment issues. Normally any slack will be back and forth movement at the tire. Check for these problems by chocking the front tires securely, then unlock the brakes and put the transmission in neutral. Next pry forward and rearward at the tire with a pry bar or something (a port-a-power comes in handy on larger vehicles), and observe for any movement in these areas.

The allowable amount of slack in a particular component depends on the exact component. Generally speaking, there must not be very much or no slack observable in any suspension component because movement promotes additional wear and could be a potentially dangerous situation waiting for time to present itself.

There are way too many suspension problem diagnosis techniques and fixes to include them all in depth in a single article. Volumes of repair manuals and books are written on these subjects, Anyone interested in vehicle suspensions should certainly read up on the subject well, before attempting any repair themselves.

An example of one of these books is my ebook for medium and heavy trucks. Many of the topics discussed can be applied to regular cars and trucks too. A repair manual, especially about the vehicle being dealt with, should round off the information aspect of vehicle maintenance. Repair manuals normally do not include a real technician's input and sense of direction, however.

Remember, suspension repair and diagnosis must be done while the vehicle is kept secured from falling and also remember spring tension can be deadly. Most suspension repair is an area for a professional or at least a well versed and informed do it yourself person.

http://www.hastprotrucks.com/
http://www.hpgiftnhome.com/

A subject other websites do not address with regularity

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Sun, 16 Dec 2007 04:12:00 +0000

This subject is targeted toward medium/heavy trucks. Motorhomes (sometimes referred to as RVs) and many buses fall into the medium truck category.

What do you do when you are confronted with front end shimmy, odd tire wear or a handling difficulty? Many folks turn to either a tire man, wheel alignment proffessional or mechanic for answers. They spend untold millions of dollars on tires, repairs and adjustment plus the money spent unneccessarily on diagnosis of their problems.

They even turn to the internet for answers but a search of a particular term may lead them astray. There are many on the net that really have no idea but will spew out a technical bunch of jargon that makes him sound like he does know. Ditto with many so called "experts" in brick and mortor tire stores and shops.

All too often the problem will return but maybe with another tire wear pattern because of changes in wheel alignment adjustment. When that happens, normally the person who supposedly "fixed" the problem was one of those know it all people who really had no idea.

New tires almost always stops or masks the problem if the problem was handling related, but unless it was really fixed, the problem will return several thousand miles later.

In future posts, we'll take a look at some of the problems medium/heavy trucks (and motorhomes & buses) have with tires and handling. We can't go as deeply into our explanations as the ebook offered on our sites does, but we can give a person some sense of direction.

Our ebook is really a book in ebook format to avoid publishing fees, etc. (no shipping either) Where the normal ebook you find on the net is often a short, spaced out, often riddled with advertisement piece of junk, our book is not spaced out and short. It has no bunch of advertisement in the text either. Every word in the ebook is there to give direction and instruction. For more info visit: http://www.hastprotrucks.com

In future posts, we'll even turn our attention to other mechanical problems encountered and on a variety of vehicles (cars, SUVs, pickups, etc.).

Some articles of interest in these areas are posted on helium.com but you'll have to sort through the ones that just talk the talk but never walked the walk. hint: take a look at their profile for guidance. Also remember they are rated largely by penmanship rather than their real knowledge in the area they are writing about.

http://www.hastprotrucks.com
http://www.hpgiftnhome.com

Hastpro - Intro to Company & Websites

noreply@blogger.com (Hastpro) — Fri, 05 Oct 2007 18:00:00 +0000

Our blog hereby officially presents our company and it's online presence. The following URLs will gain access to what we think are very fine products. We offer them in honesty as well as security, and also feature discount prices, free shipping, special on sale items, etc. We work hard to make site navigation easy too!

http://www.hastprotrucks.com/ offers travel essentials and travel accessories plus an innovative ebook written by Jerry W. Hastings concerning trucks, RVs and buses. This book is about tire wear diagnostics, wheel alignment, steering, suspension and a whole host of other topics. Not your typical ebook filled with nonsense but real help and real useable info without the publishing fees or shipping cost. It is really a book, just it's in ebook format and has normal sized fonts and no excess spaces. It's almost 180 pages long when printed on normal 8 1/2" x 11" pages. It includes diagrams for easier understanding. Registered copyright

http://www.hpgiftnhome.com/ offers unique or unusual gifts and home or office decor ideas as well as such things as travel essentials, Christmas decorations. etc.

Be sure to earmark these sites as they will likely increase the product lines and/or categories.

Anyone have a product or service they need on the Internet but don't have the money, time or knowledge required to properly promote the product or service online? Contact us-we may be able to help. Hastpro, 564 Nevada 11, Emmet AR 71835 or by email at one of the email addresses on one of our sites. Junk email will remain just that-junk email, and will be permanently deleted without opening. We absolutely hate spam in all forms.

Our blog title represents our company, Hastpro (we own the domain name hastpro.com too!).

We plan to place other such websites on the Internet plus in the future we plan a couple of websites that will offer free helpful info and other services (watch for hastpro.net and hastpro.org).

Since honesty and integrity is normally not a quality often found on the Internet, we hope we can be instrumental in changing the "face" of the Internet. The Internet is a powerful force. If it were to clean up, it would have an almost unstoppable and truly world changing effect.

http://www.hastprotrucks.com

http://www.hpgiftnhome.com