VETERINARY PROFESSIONAL

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2017-03-04T16:41:00.001-08:00

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2016-04-09T20:26:00.001-07:00

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Signs of Feline Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy

2014-10-30T05:24:00.000-07:00

Some cats diagnosed with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy are not showing any signs of illness at the time of their diagnosis. When signs do appear, they can show up quite suddenly and can be quite serious.
Congestive heart failure occurs frequently in cats with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy. Typically, the left side of the heart is more involved than the right, so the signs of hypertrophic cardiomyopathy are those of left-sided congestive heart failure.
Signs of left-sided congestive heart failure are:

Difficulty breathing
Increased respiratory rate
Increased respiratory effort
Increased heart rate
Weakness
Lethargy
Lack of appetite
Fainting spells (usually caused by an irregular heart rate known as an arrhythmia)
Cyanosis (a purple or blue color in the gums due to a lack of oxygen) in extreme cases

Possible Additional Clinical Signs

Cats with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy may also develop an aortic thromboembolism. This occurs when a blood clot breaks loose from the heart and becomes lodged at the end of the aorta causing the blood flow to the hind legs to stop.
Cats suffering from aortic thromboembolism will suddenly become paralyzed on their hind legs or have a difficult time walking and will be quite painful. The hind legs may become cold to the touch because of the lack of circulation and you may not be able to find a pulse in the hind legs.
In some cases, young apparently healthy cats may develop signs of hypertrophic cardiomyopathy while undergoing a routine surgical procedure, such as a spay or neuter. Signs may also appear shortly after the procedure is finished. It is likely in these cases that the heart condition existed prior to the procedure but was asymptomatic (not causing signs of illness) and so not diagnosed.
Unfortunately, sudden death also sometimes occurs in cats with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy.

Diagnosing Cats with Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy

On physical examination, cats with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy may or may not have a heart murmur. Arrhythmias (irregular heart beats) may be present also but an electrocardiogram (EKG or ECG) is needed to accurately diagnose any arrhythmia.
The most valuable diagnostic test for hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is an echocardiogram. An echocardiogram is an ultrasonographic examination of the heart. It allows direct visualization of the thickness of the heart muscle and the diameter of the chambers of the heart as well as allowing the veterinarian to evaluate the function of the various structures of the heart.
In most cases, other laboratory tests will also be necessary and may include blood testing to rule out hyperthyroidism and other causes of illness in addition to measurement of the blood pressure.

Please note: this article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

What Do Veterinary Technician Credentials RVT, LVT and CVT Stand For?

2014-10-18T07:25:00.001-07:00

Question:

What Do Veterinary Technician Credentials RVT, LVT and CVT Stand For?
Working with animals requires a love of animals and the knowledge of how to work with and take care of them. People who work as Veterinary Technicians learn the necessary animal handling skills and knowledge by attending veterinary technical school or by learning the skills on-the-job.

Answer:

Veterinary technicians are trained professional support staff who provide assistance to veterinarians and biomedical/laboratory researchers. Technicians provide patient monitoring, animal restraint, surgical and dental assistance, laboratory diagnostics, administration of medicines and treatments, anesthesiology among other vital animal care and veterinary clinical tasks.

Some technicians are trained on the job by the veterinarian(s) or other technicians on staff. Some technicians attend schools that offer two or four year degrees in the science of veterinary technology. Upon completion of a formal academic program or by taking state-administered certification tests, one can become credentialed as a veterinary technician.
Credentialed technicians often have a better job outlook and higher income opportunities, but this varies with an individual's level of experience and by local demand.
Credentialed veterinary technicians are known by various initials in the United States:

CVT: Certified Veterinary Technician
LVT: Licensed Veterinary Technician
RVT: Registered Veterinary Technician

The qualifications and regulations for each designation vary, but the term used is often mandated by what state or province that the technician resides in.
According to the National Association of Veterinary Technicians in America (NAVTA):

The current terminology recognized by decree of both NAVTA and the AVMA is "Veterinary Technician." Whether you are an LVT, RVT or CVT the term used is mandated by the technician’s state of residence.
Multiple titles can be very confusing for the public. In order to simplify this we recommend the use of the credentialed Veterinary Technician. We use the word credential not only to denote licensure and certification, but also to connote an affective element inherent in these terms.

The American Association of Veterinary State Boards (AAVSB) maintains a directory of regulatory agencies pertaining to licensing and credentialing of veterinary technicians and veterinarians in the United States and Canada.
Like veterinarians, veterinary technicians may specialize in a particular field of study such as dentistry or anesthesiology. NAVTA recognizes several technician specialties (recognized as either academies or societies).
Related Reading:
U.S. Department of Labor -- Veterinary Technologists and Technicians
From the Occupational Outlook Handbook

Seizures: What is Status Epilepticus?

2014-10-11T07:00:00.001-07:00

Seizures in dogs and cats are a common sign of neurological disease. They can also be caused by non-neurological conditions that affect the brain. However, status epilepticus is a serious and life-threatening form of seizure.

What is Status Epilepticus?

Status epilepticus is defined as a continual or persistent state of seizure.
Seizures in dogs and cats, in most instances, only last a short period of time. However, less commonly, the seizure does not stop.
If your dog or cat has a seizure that lasts for longer than 5 minutes without stopping, this is status epilepticus. In addition, if the seizure appears to begin to stop but starts again before your pet has a chance to recover fully between seizures, it is a form of status epilepticus.

What Should You Do if Your Dog or Cat Is in Status Epilepticus?

If your dog or cat is in status epilepticus, your pet needs emergency veterinary care. Take your pet to the nearest veterinary facility immediately.
A continuous state of seizure can cause profound changes within your dog or cat's body that can become life-threatening in a short period of time. Within an hour, brain cells will begin to die and irreparable brain damage may occur.

What Causes Status Epilepticus Seizures?

Status epilepticus is caused by many conditions. These conditions include:

poor seizure control for previously existing seizures
rapid withdrawal of anticonvulsant medications
progression of pre-existing brain disease
trauma
cancer
brain infections
poisoning
heat stroke
kidney disease
liver disease
low blood sugar levels
low blood calcium levels

How is Status Epilepticus Treated?

Your veterinarian will first try to halt the seizure using rapidly effective anticonvulsants such as diazepam, lorazepam or midazolam. If these are not effective, barbiturates or inhalation anesthesia may be used to help stop the seizure activity.

Your veterinarian will also start your dog or cat on an anticonvulsant medication such as phenobarbital to help prevent further seizures.
If your dog or cat's body temperature is high, measures may be taken to lower it. Your pet may also need oxygen therapy and other supportive medical treatments.
If an underlying disease can be located, treating that disease is important.

Can Status Epilepticus Seizures in Dogs and Cats Be Prevented

These types of seizures cannot always be prevented. However, if your dog or cat is receiving anticonvulsant medications, these medications should never be stopped abruptly.

Please note: This article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible. Click here to see the origin of this post!

Marijuana Poisoning in Pets part 2

2014-09-25T09:01:00.001-07:00

Marijuana Q & A

September 2014
This article is the second of a 2-part series on marijuana poisoning in pets (See Part 1: Marijuana Poisoning in Pets).
In this interview, Ahna Brutlag DVM, MS, DABT, DABVT, associate director of veterinary
services at Pet Poison Helpline (PPH), answers questions for veterinary professionals seeing patients who are suspected of marijuana or related drug intoxications.

Has PPH had any calls relating to cats and marijuana toxicity?

Although we are not called about cats getting into marijuana as often as we are about dogs feline exposures do occur. The majority of our feline cases involve cats simply ingesting dried buds and plants (cats seem to eat dried plants as readily as live plants!).

Some of the more interesting cases managed by Pet Poison Helpline include a cat named “Puff” that snuck into his owner’s purse and stole her "medibles"—in this case, two small brownies made with marijuana-infused butter.
Another case involved “Monster,” a giant of a cat that ate ¾ of a large homemade muffin with marijuana. Thankfully, following veterinary care, both of these stoned kitties recovered well.

In addition to the possible exposures in part 1, have you noted any cases of marijuana toxicity from e-cigs?

We’ve had these too! The tendency to vaporize ("vape") marijuana seems to be following the same upward trajectory that e-cigarettes are.
A case related to marijuana and e-cigs was "Salvador," who ingested "spent" marijuana after it had been vaped. This cat also recovered with veterinary care.
This is resulting in increasing use of "dabs" or "wax," a type of highly concentrated and solidified hash oil also known as BHO (butane hash oil).
Compared to the THC concentration of 8-20% in regular marijuana, these dollops pack a powerful punch with THC concentrations ranging from 70-90%. Unfortunately, it would not take many "dabs" to severely intoxicate most pets.

For cases of “unknown history,” what clinical signs are hallmarks for marijuana poisoning?

The classic case is a dog that comes in with a dazed expression, glassy eyes, incoordination, slow response times, and is dribbling urine. If you couple this with a somewhat sketchy story from the pet owner, then bingo!
Although pet owners are more upfront about marijuana exposures today than in years past, I’ve had them tell me that their dogs have eaten the head of match, cookies," plants that I know won’t produce these signs, carpet, paper—you name it—in order to avoid telling me that marijuana might have been involved.
Usually, with a little gentle prodding and an explanation that I just want to help their pet and assurance that I’m not going to report them to the authorities, the truth comes out.

What other drugs or plants may mimic the clinical signs of marijuana poisoning?

Other illicit drugs (LSD, ecstasy, and hallucinogenic mushrooms) may initially look similar to marijuana intoxication.
Some prescription drugs, such as opioids, may share some similar signs although many opioid cases will exhibit more severe cardiac/respiratory depression coupled with miosis (excessive constriction of the pupil of the eye). Mydriasis (pupillary dilation) is more common with marijuana. Many of these signs can be reversed with naloxone, which would have no effect on marijuana.
Benzodiazepines (Valium and Xanax), muscle relaxants, and other depressants can also look similar to marijuana intoxication.
Non-medical products such as ethylene glycol (antifreeze) may have similar clinical presentations but can be ruled out on the basis of metabolic acidosis and crystalluria.
Related: Antifreeze poisoning
Some metabolic conditions such as hypoglycemia of hepatic encephalopathy may also initially mimic the effects of marijuana, but can be readily differentiated following simple lab tests.

Do veterinarians have any legal or ethical requirements for reporting drug intoxications?

In general, the key to determining if an event is reportable to law enforcement, including animal exposures to illicit substances, hinges on the intent of the pet owner in the given situation. If an animal was intentionally fed illicit substances or forced to breathe smoke that someone blows in their face, this constitutes abuse and may be reported.
Thank you, Dr. Brutlag for your time answering this interview.

Marijuana Poisoning in Pets

2014-09-17T07:22:00.000-07:00

Marijuana - Medical, Legal, and Illegal

September 2014
As of this writing, 22 more states, and the District of Columbia allow for medical use of marijuana. Two states have legalized marijuana for recreational use: Washington state and Colorado (More Information: State Laws Related to Marijuana). In other states, marijuana use is illegal.

Marijuana Toxicity in Pets on the Rise

Legality aside, veterinarians are seeing a sharp increase in the number of cases of marijuana poisoning in pets. Pet Poison Helpline has noticed a 200% increase in calls related to marijuana toxicity between 2010 and 2014. Ahna Brutlag DVM, MS, DABT, DABVT, associate director of veterinary services at Pet Poison Helpline notes:

“The trend we’ve seen in recent years involving pets and marijuana is
significant,” said Dr. Brutlag. “Of all illicit drugs, marijuana has always been responsible for the most calls to Pet Poison Helpline, but this recent increase is the sharpest we have ever seen."

How Toxic is Marijuana?

Thankfully, marijuana has a "wide margin of safety" as far as lethal effects, meaning most
dogs won't die after ingesting or inhaling it. Death, while rare, may occur. The Journal of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care published a veterinary study noting that two small dogs died after ingesting baked goods that contained baked goods made with medical grade marijuana butter. Illness, often requiring a few days of veterinary care, is a more common scenario.

What are Sources of Pet Marijuana Toxicities?

Inhalation of the smoke
Ingestion of the dried plant
ingestion of foods laced with marijuana (e.g., brownies, cookies, butter), or products made with hashish.

"Most commonly, dogs eat the dried plant directly from their owner’s stash, or eat foods made to contain marijuana. When those foods also contain chocolate, the risk of additional poisoning is increased," notes Dr. Brutlag.

What are the Signs of Marijuana Poisoning in Dogs and Cats?

Signs of marijuana poisoning may include:

Glassy-eyes/staring
Dilated pupils
Stumbling and incoordination
Vomiting

More serious cases:

Changes in heart rate
Tremors and seizures
Coma
Death

Clinical signs are typically seen 30 - 60 minutes after ingestion, sooner if inhaled.
Dr. Brutlag says that in about 25 percent of dogs, agitation and excitement are seen. Urinary incontinence or urine dribbling is also very common, especially in dogs.

How is Marijuana Toxicity Treated?

It may take 18 to 36 hours for pets to recover from marijuana toxicity. Veterinary treatment for marijuana poisoning includes:

Intravenous (IV) fluids
Anti-vomiting medication*
Oxygen
Blood pressure monitoring
Body temperature regulation (tremors and seizures may increase body temperature)
In severe cases, ventilator/respirator support

*Treatment notes from Dr. Brutlag: Decontamination (including inducing vomiting and giving charcoal to bind up the poison) may be performed if the ingestion was recent or large, but should never be done without consulting a veterinarian. It should be noted that, inducing vomiting may be difficult due to the properties of marijuana.

Thank you, Dr. Brutlag for your assistance with this article.

Download pdf showing how to construct Incubator

2014-09-14T10:06:00.000-07:00

Constructing the Incubator by Veterinary Online Institute

Procedures used in the management of dystocia

2014-09-14T08:41:00.003-07:00

Procedures Used in the Management of Dystocia

Overview of Disposal of Carcasses and Disinfection of Premises

2014-09-05T07:55:00.002-07:00

When animals die or are slaughtered on farms, carcasses and parts that are unfit for use as food should be disposed of properly. Safe and environmentally responsible disposal of animal carcasses, whether an individual death or during significant mortality events, is an essential consideration. Premises should be promptly cleaned in a manner that prevents any infectious or toxic health hazard to domestic or wild animals or people. Information on the safe and lawful disposal of carcasses can be obtained from local environmental protection agencies. When the circumstances under which death has occurred suggest a transmissible disease or toxic hazard, the nearest animal health official should be notified immediately.

As general precautions, persons handling carcasses and disinfectants should wear protective clothing and be properly equipped to complete the tasks of disposition and disinfection. The method of disposal should preclude contamination of soil, air, and water. Hides and other parts of animals that have succumbed to infectious diseases or toxins should be safely disposed of and not retained for use.

There are restrictions on carcass disposal for cattle ≥30 mo old because of specified risk materials (tissues in which prions that cause bovine spongiform encephalopathy [BSE] concentrate). Sheep or cattle diagnosed with or suspected of being affected by scrapie (see Scrapie) or BSE (see Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy), respectively, must not be rendered. The preferred means of disposal for these animals is incineration, although they may also be buried (see below).

Rendering

Ordinarily, rendering is a safe, rapid, and economical method of disposal of carcasses. Renderers are required to use equipment and methods that prevent health hazards. Local regulations specify requirements for transportation of carcasses to rendering plants. During transportation, biosecurity must be considered to avoid spreading infectious agents into the environment.

Burial

When a site acceptable to the local environmental protection agency is available, burial is usually the preferred method of disposal. In selecting a burial site, it is necessary to consider the adequacy of soil depth and to avoid underground electrical cables, water pipes, gas pipes, septic tanks, and water wells. The prevention of secondary toxicosis or exposure to infectious agents to scavengers or groundwater must be considered (eg, the burial of a carcass infected with blastomycosis could potentially contaminate the soil thereafter). The burial pit or trench should be at least 2.3 m wide and 3 m deep (7 × 9 ft). The pit is a cave-in hazard and must not be entered without proper shoring, and any other appropriate precautions should be taken. At this depth, 1.3 m² (15 ft²) of floor space will accommodate a mature bovine or equine carcass, 5 mature pigs or sheep, 100 mature chickens, or 40 mature turkeys. For each additional meter (3 ft) in depth, the number of animals per 1.3 m² of floor space may be doubled. Contaminated litter, soil, manure, feed, milk, or other material should be placed in the pit with the carcasses and covered with at least 2 m (6 ft) of soil. The covering soil should not be compacted. Decomposition and gas formation cause cracking, bubbling, and leaking of fluids from a compacted burial site. The soil should be mounded and neatly graded.

Burning

Burning in an incinerator that is operated in compliance with local laws and ordinances is an excellent means to dispose of one or a few carcasses and is the preferred means for sheep with scrapie and cattle with BSE.

Burning carcasses in an open site should be done only when legally permitted. Burning poultry carcasses should be considered only when burial is not feasible. The burn site should be away from public view and on flat, open ground that is clear of buildings, hay or straw stacks, overhead cables, and shallow underground pipes or cables. Locations upwind from houses, farm buildings, roads, or populated areas, and those from which precipitation runoff may contaminate the environment, should be avoided.

Carcasses must be placed on a quantity of combustible supporting materials sufficient to reduce them completely to ashes. The material must also be arranged in a manner to permit an adequate flow of air to the fire. Gasoline or other highly volatile combustible liquids should not be used.

To prepare the fire bed, an area of ground should be staked out to accommodate the number of carcasses to be burned: 8 × 3 ft for each mature cow or horse, 5 mature pigs or sheep, 100 mature chickens, or 40 mature turkeys. The fire bed burns best if at a right angle to the prevailing wind.

Under favorable conditions, burning should be complete in 48 hr. Additional combustible material should be added as needed. When the fire has died out, the ashes should be buried and the area cleaned, graded or plowed, and prepared for seeding.

Other Disposal Methods

Composting, fermentation, and dry extrusion methods have been developed to process certain dead animals and animal waste, destroy pathogenic organisms, reduce volume, and produce feedstuffs. Local environmental protection agencies and state agriculture departments should be consulted concerning the acceptability of these and other possible alternative disposal methods.

Disinfection of Premises

Removal and safe disposal of manure, feed, and debris by burial or burning, followed by thorough scraping and cleaning of all buildings and equipment, must precede the application of chemical disinfectant. Except for steam cleaning, cleaning with aqueous solutions is practical only at temperatures above freezing. A cleaning agent such as trisodium phosphate or sodium carbonate dissolved in hot water will facilitate cleaning. All traces of the cleaning agent must be rinsed away with clear water before disinfectant is applied. Provision must be made to contain and safely dispose of cleaning solutions, rinse water, and disinfectant.

Disinfectants recommended for general use on surfaces free of organic matter are sodium or calcium hypochlorite (1,200 ppm available chlorine), iodine, phenol, and quaternary ammonium compounds. Newer disinfectants use a combination of products (eg, quaternary ammonia and glutaraldehyde) to enhance efficacy. Information on disinfectants for specific animal disease agents can be obtained from state or federal animal health agencies. Disinfectants should bear the approval statement of the Environmental Protection Agency in the USA or of a similar agency in other countries. Label instructions for application must be followed.

Upper Respiratory Infections in Cats Signs, Diagnosis and Treatment of Upper Respiratory Infections

2014-09-05T05:55:00.001-07:00

Upper respiratory infections are very common in cats, especially kittens. The term upper respiratory infection actually describes a complex variety of diseases that can occur alone or in combination. Generally, all of these diseases produce a similar set of symptoms that mainly affect the upper respiratory tract (i.e. mainly the nose and throat).

Upper respiratory infections usually respond well to treatment, though some cats can become quite ill. Occasionally, severe cases can progress to pneumonia. Medically, this group of infections is called feline respiratory disease complex.

Causes

There are numerous organisms that cause upper respiratory infections in cats, but the main culprits are:

feline herpesvirus 1 - also called rhinotracheitis virus
feline calicivirus - of which there are several strains
Chlamydophila felis - a bacteria
Bordatella bronchiseptica - a bacteria that also can cause kennel cough in dogs
Mycoplasma spp. - a type of bacteria

The majority of cases are due to viral infections with herpesvirus and/or calicivirus.

Risk Factors

Kittens are the most at risk, especially before they have had all their vaccinations. Upper respiratory infections most common in cats who regularly have contact with other cats where cats are housed together (e.g., shelters).
Unvaccinated cats, cats that are under stress, and cats that are immunosuppressed (e.g. some cats with FeLV or FIV) are also at greater risk. Flat-faced cats, such as Persians, seem particularly susceptible to upper respiratory infections.

Upper respiratory infections are spread via the discharge from the nose and eyes, either by direct contact with infected cats, or by contact with objects (e.g., dishes, bedding, etc.) contaminated with secretions from infected cats.

Signs and Symptoms of Upper Respiratory Infections

The symptoms can vary in severity, but typically include any or all of the following:

fever
nasal discharge
sneezing
runny eyes
reddened eyes (conjunctivitis)
squinting
cough
hoarse voice
sores in mouth and/or nose
drooling
gagging
rapid breathing
loss of appetite
lethargy

Diagnosis of Upper Respiratory Infections

A diagnosis of upper respiratory infection can often be made on the basis of history and symptoms. Further diagnostic tests can be done on the secretions to identify the organisms causing disease.

Treating Upper Respiratory Infections

For most cats, treatment is aimed at managing the symptoms. Though most cases are caused by viruses, antibiotics may be prescribed to fight bacterial infections that often occur secondary to viral infections. An eye ointment may be prescribed as well, and medications to help control the nasal congestion and discharge may also be prescribed.
Most cases can be treated at home, but in cases where cats won't eat or drink, or have serious breathing difficulties, hospitalization may be required. Intravenous fluids may be given to prevent dehydration and oxygen therapy can be used if necessary.

Most cases clear up within 7-10 days, although sometimes upper respiratory infections will hang on for a few weeks. For cases that do not respond to the usual supportive treatment, antiviral medications can be tried. Cats that suffer prolonged or repeated bouts of respiratory infections should be checked for FeLV and FIV.

Once the symptoms have resolved, cats infected with herpesvirus continue to carry the virus forever, and cats infected with calicivirus carry (and can spread) the virus for an extended period (sometimes for life). With herpesvirus, the infection is usually only "active" after times of stress; at these times cats will be contagious to other cats and may have a relapse (show symptoms again).

Preventing Upper Respiratory Infections

Vaccines against both herpesvirus and calicivirus are part of the routine vaccination protocol that will be recommended by your vet. They can be given either by injection or directly into the nose ("intranasally"), and your vet can discuss which vaccine to use and an appropriate vaccination schedule for your cat.
A vaccine is also available for Chlamydophilia, though it is typically not part of the routine set of vaccinations -- your vet can help you decide if this vaccine is right for your cat. In young kittens, the vaccines are not fully protective until the full series of vaccines is given.
Minimizing stress as well as preventing contact with infected cats can also reduce the incidence of upper respiratory infections.

Home Care for a Cat with an Upper Respiratory Infection

Cats should be kept quiet and comfortable during the course of an upper respiratory infection. Carefully wipe away discharge from the eyes and nose, and administer all medications as prescribed by your vet. A humidifier can help with managing the congestion.
Because cats might lose their sense of smell or have painful sores in their mouths, their appetites may suffer. You can try feeding their favorite, extra-tasty canned food, or even a special veterinary diet that provides extra nutritional support if your cat's appetite is diminished. However, if your cat won't eat or drink at all, consult your vet.
In multi-cat households, speak to your vet about any precautions you should take to minimize the risk to other susceptible cats in the home (e.g., isolating sick cats, disinfecting food bowls and bedding, etc.).

Please note: this article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Agility Training for Dogs/ Teaching Your Dog Specifics of Agility

2014-09-05T04:57:00.001-07:00

Agility is a competitive sport for dogs. It is an obstacle course made up of jumps, tunnels, and walkways. Dogs and handlers work as teams, with the handler helping the dog to navigate the obstacles in the correct order. Some people do agility training just for fun, while others enjoy competing in agility trials. During the trials, dog and handler teams compete to see who can complete the obstacle course the fastest with the fewest mistakes.

Best Dogs for the Job

According to the United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA), there are over 150 breeds of dogs, including mixed-breed dogs, involved in agility. While some breeds, like the Australian Shepherd are known for excelling at the sport, you should not let the fact that you have a Golden Retriever or a mixed-breed dog stop you from trying it. If your dog is playful and energetic, he will probably enjoy agility.

Dogs usually start competing in agility between the ages of 1 and 2. Puppies and young dogs may injure themselves by jumping hurdles. Talk to your veterinarian to figure out when your dog will be ready to attempt the jumps.

Early Training

Even though dogs cannot begin to compete until they are at least a year old, you can start training them earlier. Begin by working on basic obedience. Teach your puppy to sit, down, come, heel, and stay. Your puppy will also benefit from attending training classes. There he will learn basic obedience, and get used to working around lots of other dogs and people.
Once your dog is ready to start agility training, your best bet is to find a class or group in your area. The USDAA website has links to agility groups in each state, and many dog trainers offer classes, as well. In the classes, you will be able to introduce your dog to the obstacles without the expense of buying or building them yourself.

Contact Obstacles

There are several contact obstacles, including the A-frame, the teeter-totter, and the dog walk. The A-frame is a teepee shaped walkway. Dogs must be able to walk up the steep incline and back down the other side. The dog walk works like a balance beam for dogs with ramps on either end. And the teeter-totter is just like one you would find at the playground. Your dog must learn to walk across it as it moves under his weight.
These obstacles are called contact obstacles because there are specific spots on one or both sides which your dog must touch with at least one paw. You can teach your dog to make this contact by leaving treats on the contact zone. Your dog will get the treats only by putting his paw in the contact zone. Be sure to practice this as you teach each obstacle.
When you begin, make sure the obstacles are moved to the lowest position possible. Put your dog on a leash, and give him a command specific to the obstacle, such as "A-frame." Move quickly as you approach the obstacle, and lead him over it. You may need to use some extra special treats the first few times to coax your dog onto these obstacles.
If your dog absolutely refuses to get on, try training these obstacles in reverse. Pick up your dog and place him at the end of the obstacle. Usually, dogs will take the step or two it takes to get off. Once comfortable with this, you can move your dog a little further up so he has to take a few more steps to get off. Keep things positive and upbeat. Once your dog gets the hang of the contact obstacles, he will be eager to do them again and again.

Jumps

Once your vet says it is okay, you can get started on jumps. Do not start off too high. For large and medium breed dogs, keep the bar an inch or two off the ground. For smaller breeds, you can even start with the bar on the ground.
Teach the jump by keeping your dog on leash so he cannot go around a hurdle. Give a command specific to each jump, such as "big jump." Approach the jump briskly, and in most cases, your dog will hop over the hurdle. Give him lots of treats and praise. As your dog gains confidence, you can gradually raise the height of the jumps.
If your dog is refusing to go over a hurdle, practice in a narrow hallway. Set up a small jump, and put your dog on one side with you on the other. Your dog should have nowhere to go but forward over the jump. Encourage him with treats and a happy tone of voice. With a little patience and positive reinforcement, your dog will soon be a confident jumper.

Tunnels

Tunnels are usually an easy obstacle to teach. Start off with a short tunnel that allows your dog to see through to the other side. Have someone at the opposite end ready with some treats or a favorite toy. Lead your dog to the tunnel, give the command "tunnel," and have your helper begin calling him and offering treats. If he is hesitant, you can throw a few treats inside. Most dogs will quickly make their way through to the other side. As your dog becomes comfortable, you can work up to longer and curved tunnels.

Weave Poles

Weave poles are a row of poles that your dog must weave in and out of. This can be a difficult obstacle to teach. Plan on lots of practice and repetition before your dog masters this skill. To start, stagger the poles so they are at least shoulder-width apart for your dog. Put him on leash and lead him through the middle channel between the poles. After you have done this a number of times, gradually move the poles closer to the center. This forces your dog to bend his body a bit to work his way through the middle channel. By the time you have the poles in the correct position, your dog should have learned the bending movement needed to weave around the poles. The weave poles can take several weeks to months for your dog to learn.

The Pause Table

The pause table is a table that your dog must jump up on to perform either a "sit-stay" or a "down-stay" The table is usually no higher than your couch, so it is not hard to encourage your dog to jump up on it. Patting the surface and using some treats to lure your dog is usually all that is needed. The tough part is to keep your dog in a stay. Most dogs are anxious to move on to another obstacle. This is where your early training comes in. If you have practiced basic commands before you begin agility training, your dog will be ahead of the game. If your dog is having trouble, start small. Have him stay for a count of one, and then offer a treat. Gradually increase the amount of time you have him stay. Once he is able to stay for 5 seconds or more, practice with lots of distractions, just as he will experience at an agility trial.

Putting It Together

Once your dog has mastered all the obstacles, it is time to put it all together. This is called sequencing. It is your job to let your dog know the order in which he should approach obstacles. Start by linking two obstacles, such as a jump and the tunnel. First, give your dog the command "big jump." Then, before he hits the ground on the other side, tell him "tunnel" as you move towards the tunnel. Timing is important with sequencing. If you wait too long to give the command for the next obstacle, your dog may make the choice for himself, and it may not be the right one. Once your dog has gotten the hang of doing two obstacles in a row, you can add another, and so on, until he is able to complete an entire course. Once he is able to do this successfully, you are ready to compete!

Kennel Cough in Dogs

2014-09-05T04:23:00.000-07:00

About Kennel Cough

Kennel cough is also known as infectious tracheobronchitis (it has also been called Bordatellosis or Bordatella). It is a highly contagious respiratory infection affecting the airways. Kennel cough is commonly contracted in situations where dogs are confined in close contact, such as kennels, shelters, veterinary clinics, and dog shows. Stress, poor ventilation, and temperature and humidity extremes are also thought to increase the susceptibility of dogs to kennel cough.

Causes of Kennel Cough

Kennel cough is a complex disease that is caused by a number of infectious agents including canine parainfluenza virus, canine adenovirus 2, canine distemper virus, and a bacteria called Bordetella bronchiseptica. Other viruses and bacteria may also be involved, although their roles are less well understood. These viruses and bacteria can act alone or together to cause kennel cough.
Usually, kennel cough is not serious, but some dogs can become seriously ill from kennel cough infection (especially very young, very old, or immunocompromised dogs). In any case, whenever a dog is coughing, a vet visit is highly recommended to sort out possible diagnoses and treatment options.

Signs of Kennel Cough

Common signs

Cough, usually a dry hacking cough (sometimes described as a goose honk cough). The severity and type of cough can be variable however.
Retching and gagging (as if something stuck in throat)
and expulsion of white foamy fluid

More serious signs

Nasal discharge
Lethargy
Loss of appetite

While a coughing dog should see a vet for evaluation, if lethargy or loss of appetite accompany the cough, see your vet immediately as this may indicate serious complications such as pneumonia.
The symptoms usually appear about 5-10 days after exposure to an infected dog, and can last for up to 3 weeks, though symptoms may improve considerably within a few days. It is thought that dogs can remain contagious for several weeks after symptoms clear up.

Diagnosis of Kennel Cough

Uncomplicated cases of kennel cough can often be diagnosed based on history (i.e. exposure to new dogs), symptoms, and physical examination. If some of the more serious signs such as nasal discharge, lethargy, and loss of appetite are present, further testing such as blood counts and radiographs (x-rays) may be recommended.

Treatment of Kennel Cough

Your vet will recommend treatment based on the severity of illness in your dog. Many dogs recover without treatment, so your dog may simply require monitoring to ensure the symptoms are not worsening. For dogs with severe coughs, a cough suppressant may be prescribed, and in come cases, antibiotics may be prescribed to combat bacterial infections. If your dog has symptoms such as fever, lethargy and loss of appetite, more intensive treatment will be recommended.
Pressure from a collar can exacerbate kennel cough symptoms, so switching to a harness is recommended for the duration of the illness.

Prevention of Kennel Cough

Both injectable and intranasal (administered in the nose) vaccines are available to protect against kennel cough. Your veterinarian can recommend an appropriate vaccination schedule based on your dog's situation and risk factors for kennel cough.
Vaccinations should be given at least a week or two in advance of situations where your dog is at risk for contracting kennel cough to be most effective. Most boarding facilities require vaccination against kennel cough (along with the routine annual vaccinations).

Please Note: This article is intended for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

About new vet movement online

2014-08-21T16:37:00.001-07:00

Hi,
I hope you are well. I would like to share on Online Veterinary Institute movement..The purpose is to reach 50,000 likes on the page until December.

The other purpose of this vet movement / revival of veterinary: -

1. Activate summer learning through facebook in Tanzania and worldwide.
2. Encourage modern farming in the country and other parts of the world
3. Be able to provide jobs for professional entry when online.
4. Set cooperation between vets and community through this page Veterinary Online Institute https://www.facebook.com/veterinary255 )
5. Provide pastoral education for young people in the streets who have facebook to find out grazing.

How to participate: -
1 Like this page (https://www.facebook.com/veterinary255)
2 Inform your friends about more than 200.
3 Share this page in the status of different groups.
4 Visit our blog (www.vetparaprofessinal.blogspot.com) to share different vet cases by sending an email in our contact form and your name will be published in our post respectively..

Thanks: -
1 For all who will support this movement
2 For all those who sent their feedback via contact form
3 For all who provided funding in one way or another.

BEST Tanzania being built by I, you and that.
By Chuwa. Monotata L R B,

Home Care For Diarrhea in Dogs

2014-08-18T06:27:00.001-07:00

She Seems Fine, But...

Your dog but woke you up at 5am needing to go outside now. Or maybe she had a diarrhea accident in the house, which is not a normal occurrence (not housetraining, no concurrent illness). What should you do?

If your dog is active, alert, and has a good appetite, it may just be a temporary issue that can be helped by "resting the gut" and offering a bland diet at home.

Words of Caution

As always, a call to check in with your vet is your best bet. Diarrhea may be a sign of serious problems such as pancreatitis, HGE, or poisonings. Diarrhea may make some conditions, such as diabetes, rapidly worse.

If your dog is a puppy or a senior, has any other health issues, or bloody diarrhea is noted (any age or condition), please skip home care options and call your veterinarian immediately. It is important to note that if the diarrhea persists for more than two days, however fine your dog seems, it is important to seek veterinary care to avoid dehydration and other health issues.

For dogs who are otherwise feeling fine, alert, and have a normal appetite, here are some tips for diarrhea home care.

These tips are for diarrhea only, no signs of vomiting.

Rest The Gut

It is encouraging to see your dog want to eat, but that great appetite may make diarrhea worse or last longer. It is important to "rest the gut" which means water only for 12 - 24 hours. Clear fluids such as low sodium broth or electrolyte water are OK. (No colorants or artificial sweeteners, especially xylitol.)

Beware. This period of fasting may mean that your dog gets even more determined and "creative" when trying to raid the garbage can or the litter box.

Bland Diet

A bland diet is a temporary diet that is gentle to the intestinal tract and helps firm up the stools.

Popular foods safe to feed include:

Boiled chicken
Cooked low-fat hamburger
Cooked white rice
Cooked pasta
Yogurt - plain or vanilla

Small, frequent meals are best. Start with approximately 1/4 volume of what would normally be fed. Space out meals every 3 - 4 hours, for 4 total meals. If diarrhea is noted during this schedule, wait longer for the next feeding.

Over-The-Counter Diarrhea Aids

Human medications are not FDA-approved for use in animals, and are considered "off label" usage. Many common medications for humans, such as Pepto-Bismol®‎ and Kaopectate®, contain subsalicylate, which is related to aspirin. Aspirin is not recommended in these cases of diarrhea in dogs and especially not recommended for cats.

Other medications, such as loperamide (Imodium), are used for canine diarrhea (not FDA-approved, off-label usage). While safe for many dogs, caution is advised for animals who are elderly or debilitated, taking certain medications, and some Collie and Collie-crosses may be sensitive to this drug1. Please talk to your veterinarian about using this medication for your pet.

When It Is Time To Visit The Vet

If resting the gut and feeding a bland diet for 24-48 hours have not helped with the diarrhea or new signs have developed, such as listlessness, loss of appetite, painful abdomen, or any other signs that are not normal behavior for your dog, it is time for a veterinary examination.

Food Changes

Changing your dog's food should be done gradually, mixing in small amounts of the new food in with the current food over a period of several days. A quick food change, or a change to a food your dog does not tolerate well, may lead to diarrhea.

Transitioning from a bland diet the regular diet should also be done gradually, over 3 - 6 meals to ensure that the stools remain solid.

Please note: This article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Mtanzania agundua chanjo ya ndui ya kuku

2014-06-25T06:50:00.000-07:00

Dar es Salaam. Tanzania imeingia katika vitabu vya kihistoria ya tiba baada ya Profesa Philemon Wambura kugundua chanjo ya ugonjwa wa ndui kwa kuku ambayo imetambuliwa kimataifa.

Chanjo hiyo iitwayo ‘Fowl Pox TPV-1 strain,’ iliyofanyiwa utafiti kwa miaka 10 na ya kwanza kugunduliwa duniani, itaanza kutumika Afrika na dunia nzima hivi karibuni.

Akizungumza wakati wa utiaji saini wa makubaliano na kampuni ya kimataifa inayotengeneza dawa na chanjo mbalimbali za mifugo, MCI Sante Animale ya Morocco, Profesa Wambura alisema chanjo hiyo ni ya kwanza kukubalika kutumika kuzuia ugonjwa wa ndui ya kuku na ni rahisi kutumia ukilinganisha na chanjo nyingine zilizowahi kufanyiwa majaribio.

“Ni fahari kwa Tanzania kuwa mgunduzi wa kwanza wa chanjo hii duniani, ni chanjo yenye ubora wa hali ya juu na matumizi yake yataongeza uzalishaji wa kuku na kuongeza kipato,” alisema Profesa Wambura ambaye ni Mkuu wa Kitengo cha Tiba ya Wanyama wa Chuo cha Kilimo Sokoine (SUA).

Profesa Wambura alisema tofauti na chanjo nyingine, hiyo inaweza ikawekwa kwenye chakula au maji ya kunywa bila kupata usumbufu wa kuwakamata mmoja mmoja na kuweka dawa machoni kama ilivyozoeleka.

Alisema chanjo hiyo ina sifa kubwa ya kuvumilia joto, jambo linaloifanya kuwa ni rafiki wa mazingira ya vijijini ambako hakuna umeme na ina uwezo wa kutambua iwapo kuku ana virusi vya ugonjwa wa ndui kwa kutumia damu ya kuku mwenyewe.

“Madhumuni yetu ni kuhakikisha chanjo hii inapatikana kwa bei nafuu ili hata wananchi wa kawaida wanufaike. Ndiyo maana itazalishwa kwa wingi ili iuzwe kwa bei nafuu,” alisema.

Mkurugenzi Mkuu wa Tume ya Sayansi na Teknolojia (Costech), Dk Hassan Mshinda alisema ni fahari kubwa kuwa kazi ya mtafiti wa Kitanzania imeonekana na mataifa ya nje, jambo ambalo linatoa ari kwa watafiti wengine kufanya kazi zaidi.

Alisema mradi huo wa chanjo ya ndui ya kuku uliogharimu Sh205 milioni ni wa kimataifa na chanjo hiyo itasambazwa duniani kote kwa ushirikiano wa Costech na Kampuni ya MCI.

“Ni vizuri sasa tafiti za Kitanzania zinatumika badala ya kuhifadhiwa kwenye makabrasha bila faida yoyote. Ni kazi ya kujivunia hasa,” alisema

Mkuu wa Kitengo cha Uendelezaji wa Biashara wa MCI, Dk Baptiste Dungu alisema kampuni yake imefanya kazi na Profesa Wambura na kugundua kuwa utafiti wa chanjo yake una manufaa makubwa kwa sababu ni wa kwanza duniani.

SOURCE MWANANCHI

Treatment of complete vaginal prolapse

2014-06-15T05:11:00.000-07:00

Treatment of a mild early prolapse may require only simple cleaning of exposed tissues, application of ointment eg Hibitane cream or petroleum jelly and gently pushing the prolapse back into the vagina.

At this time, a decision needs to made whether to carry the cow through to calving or to send the cow to slaughter as many cases will recur. There also a genetic omponent and the possibility of this problem occurring in the cow’s heifer offspring.

Treatment of longer existing, more severe vaginal prolapses require veterinary attention with the use of epidural anaesthesia to reduce pain and straining
during the procedure. After the prolapse has been cleaned and replaced, the veterinarian will use sutures to maintain the tissues in their normal position. A course of antibiotic injections would be prescribed. A long term epidural anaesthetic may be administered if the cow continues to strain.

Sutures in the cow’s vulva will need to be removed to allow the cow to calve. However, some veterinarians use a method of suturing the cow’s cervix to the prepubic tendon which will hold the prolapsed tissues in their normal position and still allow the cow to calve with the suture in place.

Cows with vaginal prolapses which are within 7-14 days of parturition and which have colostrum in the udder may be considered suitable subjects to under go immediate caesarian section to increase the chance of getting a live calf.

GET TO KNOW THE HIGH AND LOW MAINTENANCE PETS

2014-06-13T16:40:00.001-07:00

GET TO KNOW THE HIGH AND LOW MAINTENANCE PETS

1.) High-maintenance pets (not ranked in any particular order)

Dogs
Dogs can require more or less maintenance based on the breed, and their requirements also vary widely from dog to dog. Overall, dogs can be considered to be high-maintenance pets because they need exercise and a proper diet to remain healthy, attention to be happy, and regular cleaning of their living environment. They also need behavioral training to address housetraining, chewing, biting, digging, and jumping. Most dogs also require regular grooming— baths, haircuts or hair brushing, teeth cleanings, etc.

Rabbits
Many people buy rabbits without realizing that the animals can seriously injure themselves or even die of heart attacks if they get scared. Rabbits need a lot of exercise, which they can get when allowed to hop around outside their cages, but owners must be wary of rabbits’ tendency to chew things within their reach while they are roaming the house. Rabbits also require daily litter box cleaning.

Large birds
Some people are fans of keeping large birds, such as macaws, Amazon parrots, and African grey parrots. These large birds require a lot of human attention, mental stimulation, and time outside of the cage. They can be extremely loud, and they tend to chew and bite. People also sometimes fail to realize that some large birds can live to between 50 and 100 years of age, so owners must want a pet that might be with them for the rest of their lives.

Chinchillas
Although chinchillas are especially cute and soft, they can be high maintenance for the typical pet owner. Chinchillas require that the temperature stay at or below 75 degrees. They should not become wet, as moisture can harm their skin, but they must take several dust baths each week. Chinchillas commonly do not enjoy being held, and their diet must be tailored closely to the species’ nutritional requirements.

Ferrets
Ferrets need plenty of playtime and room to roam, so owners need to make sure their homes are ferret-proofed. Ferrets have been known to chew up carpet and tear holes in couches and recliners, and they can squeeze into small openings such as behind refrigerators and underneath cabinets. They also are prone to biting and nipping, so their interactions with children, pets, and other adults need to be carefully supervised. It’s illegal to have ferrets in some states.

2.) Low-maintenance pets (not ranked in any particular order)

Guinea pigs
The guinea pig is a classic pet due to its minimal maintenance requirements and social nature. They are happy, whether sitting on your lap, running around in their habitats, or lounging inside a hollow log or other prop. If you provide a consistently clean environment, a healthy diet, and some love and attention, they can provide years of easygoing fun.

Hamsters, gerbils, and mice
Small rodents such as hamsters, gerbils, and mice are typically on the lower end of the maintenance spectrum. Their small size means they don’t need a large habitat, and they don’t need to be walked or trained (although some people do train their rodents). Their diets are relatively simple, and they are capable of exercising themselves if their environments are equipped with plenty of activities.

Cats
We put cats in the low-maintenance category for this article, although many cat owners would likely disagree based on their own experiences. The fact is that every cat is different. Some crave human interaction while others seemingly prefer their solitary time. Some short-haired cats barely need grooming while long-haired cats need it regularly.

Many people see cats as low-maintenance because they believe cats can be left alone at home for long periods of time as long as there is a big bowl of food and a water dish available. But if you ask your veterinarian, this is not necessarily true. Leaving a cat alone means that its litter box won’t be changed, its food may spoil (if it is wet food), and it will not receive prompt veterinary attention if it is sick or injured while the owner is away.

Small birds
Small birds can be low-maintenance to varying degrees, mainly based on how much human interaction they require. Some birds, such as finches and canaries, generally do not appreciate contact with humans, so they simply require the correct diet and an appropriately sized cage. Other small birds, such as cockatiels and parakeets, need time outside the cage to play and be socialized. Those considering getting a bird should also factor in time to clean cages.

Regardless of the type of pet you’re considering, understand that you’re making a commitment to care for a living creature. Ensure that the needs of your new pet align with your lifestyle before taking the plunge.

PROLAPSE IN CATTLE

2014-06-13T16:32:00.000-07:00

A prolapse can be basically defined as an abnormal repositioning of a body part from its normal anatomical position. Two distinct types of prolapses occur in the reproductive tract of cattle: vaginal or uterine. While both types require medical attention and correction, the severity and time of occurrence differ.

1. Vaginal Prolapses
A vaginal prolapse occurs before calving due to the increased pressure in the abdominal cavity during the latter stages of pregnancy. This type of prolapse is more common than the uterine prolapse, and it typically looks like a pink mass of tissue about the size of a large grapefruit or volleyball. Once this tissue becomes prolapsed, it is exposed to environmental elements (wind, dust, sun, injury) and to potential infectious organisms.

2. Uterine Prolapses
A uterine prolapse is typically seen immediately following or within a few hours of calving. Compared to the vaginal prolapse, the uterine prolapse is larger, longer (usually
hanging down to the hocks when standing), more deep red in color and covered with the “buttons” where the placenta was attached.

A uterine prolapse is considered a medical emergency; therefore, this condition is life threatening. If the affected cow is not treated quickly, she could go into shock or die from blood loss. Contact your veterinarian for assistance with this procedure. If the uterus is pushed back improperly, it could result in internal bleeding and death of the cow.
With uterine prolapses, if a good, clean job is done replacing the uterus, it may not be necessary to cull the cow from the herd. These cows have the potential to return to the herd and maintain a normal reproductive existence. However, if an infection occurred when the uterus was replaced, the cow may be slow to rebreed or may not breed back at all.

6 Dog Behavior Myths, Debunked

2014-06-07T01:20:00.004-07:00

1. Dogs attack without first showing any signs of distress.

Siracusa dispels this dangerous myth, explaining that almost all dogs give signs that something or someone is making them uncomfortable. Those signs may be subtle, like inching away or even just pulling their heads away. Look for other signs like bared teeth and flattened ears. Not all dogs will grown

before lashing out, so looking for these physical signs is important.

Why don’t all dogs growl before attacking? Something Jenna’s trainers have stressed with us is to never scold her when she growls. It’s actually pretty easy to train a dog not to growl. The trouble is, you’re teaching her not to give that important warning that she’s reaching the end of her rope.

2. A dog on her back is asking for a belly rub.

When a dog rolls over, she is saying one of two things:

“I trust you, you’re the boss, please rub my belly!”
“I’m feeling nervous. Please leave me alone.”

Talk about confusing! According to Siracusa, the key is to look at the other signals that dog is sending. Does she seem relaxed with a vigorously wagging tail? Rub away! If her legs are stiff, and she’s holding her head to one side, leave her be.

3. Happy dogs wag their tails.

If I had to pick the most dangerous dog behavior myth on this list, it would be this one. Tail wags can mean lots of things, and not all of them are happy. I’ve noticed that – at least with Jenna – it’s about the way she’s wagging. A slow back-and-forth means she’s uneasy. If she’s wagging so hard that her booty is shaking, she’s feeling fine. We call the latter her “helicopter tail,” and I love seeing her that happy!

If you don’t know the dog, Siracusa says that you should look at other signs, just like with the two myths above. The ears, eyes, and mouth give you a lot of information.

4. The idea of dog training is to teach your dog that you’re the alpha.

This one shocked me, I’ll be honest. We’ve been training Jenna for years, and we always thought of me as the alpha, since I’m with her most and she follows my lead most of the time. Siracusa calls this a common misconception. He says that dog training is about getting your dog attached to you, not establish pack order.

5. When your dog is bad, punish her.

No. No. No. This was one of the first things we learned in training, and changing our mindset about how to modify Jenna’s behavior has done wonders for her. Punishing teaches your dog fear. Instead, you want to entice and reward. There’s no need to hit your dog or shout at her.

I think a great example of this idea in action is the way we are teaching Jenna to interact with our 14-month-old son. She’s a 45 pound lab mix, so she still outweighs him and could really hurt him without meaning to. When she gets too wound up, we don’t shout or hit. We just remove her from the situation for a few minutes, then start again. These little time outs give her a chance to calm down, so that we can bring her back in and reward her for playing safely and calmly with our baby.

6. A calm dog is a happy dog.

Siracuse explains that this couldn’t be further from the truth, and this is a lesson that my husband and I learned quickly after adopting Jenna.

At the shelter, Jenna would sit quietly. We thought at first that this was a sign of a relaxed, well-adjusted girl, and it could not have been less true. She wasn’t sitting calmly. She was so overcome with anxiety that she was completely shut down. A dog like that can be dangerous, and it took years of love and training to get Jenna out of her shell. She is still an anxious girl, but she responds to the commands she’s learned, and she is generally very happy.

If you encounter a dog who’s sitting very still, know that she might be terrified. Terrified dogs are hard to read. Your best bet is to look to the owner for cues on whether to pet her or leave her be.

LABORATORY CONFIRMATION OF AFRICAN SWINE FEVER

2014-06-06T23:52:00.004-07:00

LABORATORY CONFIRMATION OF AFRICAN SWINE FEVER

Laboratory tests need to be carried out to confirm the diagnosis of ASF, because the drastic control measures are expensive and cause hardship to owners and government alike. These measures should not be put in place unnecessarily. The tests that exist are used to detect the virus itself by growing it, evidence that the virus was present (virus antigen, genetic material) or the reaction of the animal to the virus (antibodies in blood serum). In acute outbreaks of ASF, it may not be possible to detect antibodies, as the pigs die before they have time to produce them. The standard tests therefore involve detection of the virus. Tests to detect antibodies are useful for identifying pigs that have survived infection and for carrying out surveys to determine whether the disease is endemic in a country or area.

Detection of the virus in cell culture
F virus, the presence of virus in cell cultures can be demonstrated by adding red blood cells to the culture. These are attracted to the surface of infected cells, to which they cling and form “rosettes”, a phenomenon known as haemadsorption. The virus may be injected into pigs to demonstrate that it is capable of infecting pigs and causing disease. Some strains of virus do not cause red blood cells to absorb to the surface of cells that they have infected, but dead cells in the culture will become obvious after a few days.

The advantage of culturing the virus is that it can then be characterized to determine the strain.

Detection of virus antigens by immunofluorescence

Impression smears of lymph nodes and spleen on glass slides are treated with antibodies labelled with a dye that will fluoresce when examined under a special microscope (Figure 17). Positive and negative controls are used to ensure that the slides are interpreted correctly. This test can be carried out fairly rapidly and is used in most African laboratories that have the capacity to diagnose ASF.

Detection of virus antigens by polymerase chain reaction (PCR)

This test requires specialized facilities. It is used most frequently in reference laboratories to obtain a rapid diagnosis, as isolation in cell culture and demonstration of the virus by adsorption of red blood cells or cell damage (cytolysis) usually takes several days. Results are obtainable within 24 hours, and rely less on personal interpretation than immunofluorescence. The test can be carried out on a variety of tissues, but for practical purposes lymph nodes and spleen on ice or in glycerosaline are the samples of choice.

Detection of viral antigen by immunoperoxidase staining

Viral antigen may be detected in cells in histopathological preparations from formalin-fixed material by the immunoperoxidase staining technique. This method, which usually takes 5–7 days, is slower than PCR or immunofluorescence, but is useful if the only tissues available have been preserved in formalin. It is useful as a research tool to determine the distribution of viral antigen.

What causes infertility in male dogs?

2014-04-22T07:16:00.001-07:00

Generally, infertility in male dogs refers to diminished or absent fertility. It does not imply sterility.

What causes infertility in male dogs?
The causes of infertility in male dogs are divided into two main groups, congenital infertility and acquired infertility. Congenital infertility is caused by genetic (chromosomal) abnormalities; it is present at birth. Affected dogs cannot produce sperm. Acquired infertility develops during the dog's lifetime. It has several causes:

Incomplete ejaculation, usually occurs because the male dog (stud) is uncomfortable in the breeding situation, such as :

Unfamiliar surroundings
Slippery flooring
Absence of a female dog in heat
Presence of a dominant pet guardian or female dog

Obstruction of the reproductive tract, caused by

Inflammation
Infection
Cancer
Vasectomy

Hormonal abnormalities

Hypothyroidism (inadequate production of thyroid hormone by the thyroid gland)
Hyperadrenocorticism (excessive production of adrenal hormones by the adrenal gland)

Drugs and toxins

Parasiticides
Corticosteroids
Chemotherapeutic agents
Some antifungal agents

Miscellaneous

Trauma
Environmental damage
Testicular cancer
Systemic disease
Heat stress
Prostate disease
Inbreeding

How is infertility diagnosed in male dogs?
Infertility in male dogs is diagnosed by a good medical history, including breeding management, and a physical examination. To determine infertility, the veterinarian may perform a hormonal (endocrine) profile, which measures several hormones that can help identify the cause of the infertility. One of the hormones is testosterone, the male hormone. Ultrasound (visualization of deep body tissues by recording ultrasonic waves) helps identify abnormalities of the male reproductive tract and permits evaluation of the prostate gland.
A breeding soundness examination will be performed. A sperm sample is collected and evaluated for volume, number or concentration of sperm, motility of the sperm, and other characteristics of sperm cells. Microscopic examination and bacterial culture of sperm and urine also are performed. Other tests may be performed, based on the veterinarian's assessment of the cause of infertility. Testicular biopsy (removal and examination of a tissue specimen) may be necessary to obtain a definitive diagnosis.

How is infertility treated in male dogs?
The treatment for infertility in male dogs varies, depending on the underlying cause. No treatment is available for congenital infertility. The veterinarian will discuss breeding management. Most perceived infertility is actually incorrect timing of breeding or poor breeding conditions. If improper breeding techniques are not the problem, the veterinarian will treat the underlying cause of the infertility. Supportive treatment includes reducing heat or other stress and ensuring that diet and mineral supplementation are adequate. Antibiotics are administered to treat infection. Usually, a minimum of 3 to 4 weeks of treatment is recommended to allow adequate and sustained concentrations of antibiotics within the reproductive tract. Other treatment will depend on the identified cause of the infertility. The testicles will require time to return to function, at least 60 days. The pet guardian should know that patience is important while the cause and treatment of infertility are pursued.

What is the prognosis for infertility in male dogs?
The prognosis (outcome) for infertility in male dogs depends on the underlying cause. Since most perceived infertility in male dogs is actually incorrect timing of breeding, the initial prognosis is good. However, if breeding management has been ruled out as the cause, the prognosis is determined by the cause of infertility. Dogs with congenital infertility will never produce sperm. Many causes of acquired infertility can be corrected.

Cat Fights Part 1 - Understanding Feline Aggression

2014-04-10T23:33:00.002-07:00

Questions about introducing a new cat to the household or what to do when two (or more) cats in the house suddenly don't like each other are common. As you probably suspect, there is no quick, easy solution to ensure feline harmony in the home.
There is hope though. In this 3-part interview, veterinary behaviorist Theresa DePorter DVM DECAWBM DACVB (a veterinarian who is a specialist, board-certified in the US and UK in animal behavior) answers questions about aggression between cats and how to recognize and help cats who are not getting along.

1. How do you define aggression between cats in the same household?
Aggression between housemate cats may vary intensity and severity. Some cats will growl, hiss or scream while others may block, flee, or hide. This may be influenced by temperament, coping skills, and past experiences.
Cats that are comfortable in social interactions will nose-touch, groom each other around the head, and sleep while touching. The absence of these affiliative interactions provides evidence for underlying, ongoing social tension. Agonistic interactions may range from actually biting to aloof disregard: but most are going to include daily social tension characterized by hissing, swatting or blocking.

Cats are naturally social creatures. Cats form the strongest bonds with those that they meet during the socialization window (between about 5 and 12 weeks). Cats that know each other during this period may form life-long or long-term affiliative bonds.
Cats may be aggressive when first introduced to the household while others may become aggressive following an event. A single traumatic interaction may result in an explosive aggressive incident followed by months or years of ongoing disdain and mistrust.

The quality and character of their relationship before the big fight may influence their ability to recover spontaneously. Cats inherently do not reconcile well. Reconciliation describes the process by which one overcomes a difficult or traumatic incident which affects the relationship.
In contrast, dogs are highly skilled at displaying appeasement gestures in order to alleviate concerns after a tense moment. A dog may look away, roll on their back or lick. Sometimes people think this is guilt. Not really guilt, but it is appeasement.

Cats are not very good at reconciliation. They don’t need to be: if the perceive a threat they will respond by fleeing or fighting. They generally prefer fleeing. Cats don’t require complex social interactions to survive.
I believe cats appreciate friendly relationships that are pleasant, predictable and rewarding but I don’t think they are socially dependent on other cats.

2. What are the early signs of a possible "aggression problem" that cat owners should be aware of?
Hissing, piloerection (fur raised up), and arched back are obvious signs of an aroused cat. A cat that is hissing is feeling defensive, cornered and apprehensive. Never punish or reprimand a cat for hissing. That is like yelling at a person who is so upset they are crying: yelling is not going to alleviate the cause of the tears.
A cat that turns his ears sideways, dilates pupils, twitches his tail, or looks away may be aroused too. Some cats will groom themselves when mildly distressed: this is called a displacement behavior.
Cats get information by assessing scents or pheromones in the environment.

They display flehmen response by a 'gape' demonstrated by a lifting of the lips and puffing to inhale the scents and draw pheromones into the vomeronasal organ. The cat may be seen bringing the tongue up to his nose and this is another sign he is aroused, curious and reading for information encoded within the scents.

Is There A Treatment For Heartworm Disease In Dogs?

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There are two drugs approved for the treatment of heartworm disease in dogs. Both drugs contain arsenic and are effective at killing adult heartworms. Caparsolate Sodium (arsenamide sodium), the older of the two drugs, is injected into a vein. It is not currently manufactured or marketed in the United States. The newer drug, Immiticide (melarsomine hydrochloride), is given by a deep injection into the back muscles to treat dogs with stabilized class 1, 2, and 3 heartworm disease.

One drug, Advantage Multi for Dogs (imidacloprid and moxidectin), is approved to get rid of microfilariae in the bloodstream of heartworm-positive dogs.

The treatment for heartworm disease is not easy on the dog or on the owner’s pocket book. Treatment can be potentially toxic to the dog’s body and can cause serious complications, such as life-threatening blood clots to the dog’s lungs. Treatment is expensive because it requires multiple visits to the veterinarian, bloodwork, x-rays, hospitalization, and a series of injections with Immiticide.
The Best Treatment Is Prevention!

There are many approved products that prevent heartworm disease in dogs. All require a veterinarian’s prescription. Most products are given monthly, either as a topical liquid applied on the skin or as an oral tablet. Both chewable and non-chewable oral tablets are available. One product is injected under the skin every six months, and only a veterinarian can give the injection. There is an approved daily product but it is no longer commercially available in the United States. Some heartworm preventives contain other ingredients that are effective against certain intestinal worms (such as roundworms and hookworms) and other parasites (such as fleas, ticks, and ear mites).

Year-round prevention is best! Talk to your dog’s veterinarian to decide which preventive is best for your dog

Common Household Poisons

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The average home contains many possible poisons for pets and children. Properly storing and locking up hazardous items is the first step to preventing accidental poisonings. An important thing to remember for pets: many won't hesitate to chew through child locking caps and "safe" containers. Here is a list, in no particular order, of some common toxins to be aware of to protect accidental ingestion by your pet (or children).

1. Foods and Food Additives

Probably one of the most common known "food toxins" for pets is chocolate, but there are many others. Foods to keep away from pets include, but are not limited to: raisins and grapes and products containing xylitol (an artificial sweetener).

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Foods Toxic to Pets
Including chocolate, raisins and grapes, macadamia nuts, yeast bread dough and more.
Pet Safety Tips
Learn about toxic foods, poison prevention and other household hazards to be aware of to keep your pets safe.

2. Human Medications

by Getty Images/Michael Matisse

One of the most common household poisons are medications - either discovered by the pet or purposely administered by the owner. Everyone is familiar with the "Keep out of reach of children" warnings, but may underestimate their pets. Pets have an advantage over children -- their strong jaws and teeth can chew through many "child safe" bottles.
Prescription or over-the-counter medications should not be given to pets (unless directly advised by your veterinarian); accidental poisonings, especially from NSAIDs (e.g. Advil®, Aleve® and Motrin®), acetaminophen (e.g. Tylenol®) and antidepressants (e.g. Effexor®, Cymbalta®, Prozac®) are very common.

3. Plants and Trees

by steakpinball on Flickr

Lilies and other beautiful plants and trees that adorn our homes and yards may also be deadly poison if ingested or even chewed upon. It is wise to confine pets from known poisonous plants if possible. Most county extension offices or gardening societies in your area will be able to assist you in selecting safe plants for your geographic area and climate.
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4. Pest Control Baits and Poisons

by Getty / Stockbytes

Rat and mouse poisons and any other baits, such as slug and snail bait should be used with extreme caution in a household with pets.
These items are baits -- they are made to entice animals to eat. Hiding the box behind the cupboard is not guaranteed safe, either. Pets have been known to move furniture or items to reach poisons. Also, other animals or events may move the poison into easy reach.

5. Flea and Tick Treatments

No one wants to deal with fleas and ticks and all of the problems they present. However, in the effort to rid your pet of these parasites, caution is advised -- these treatments are also toxins (designed to kill the parasites)! Used at the recommended dosages and protocols, pesticides should be safe for the animals that they are intended to be used on.
A common mistake is to apply dog topicals to cats. Cats may also suffer toxic exposure by being close to or licking other pets who have had topicals applied.
Using more of the product or not following product recommendations is NOT the way to kill more fleas and ticks; it may seriously harmful or fatal for your pet.

6. Lawn and Garden Herbicides and Pesticides

Image credit: mikebaird on Flickr

Use of products on lawns and gardens to control insects and weeds is common for many households. These chemicals are not intended for use on animals, so be sure to allow for proper drying time in the area before releasing pets to roll in, eat, or otherwise have contact with treated areas and plants. Store all containers in safe areas and dispose of empty containers safely.
Many fertilizers cause gastrointestinal upset. Some may be combined with pesticides and/or herbicides, which can be harmful or fatal to pets.
If at all possible, it is best reduce or eliminate the use of yard chemicals. Check with local pest and garden centers -- many now offer non-toxic, organic alternatives for pest and weed control.

7. Household Cleaners and Chemicals

by Getty Images / Nichola Evans

Products used to clean the house, do laundry and dishes, maintain pools and hot tubs, and maintenance products such as paints and lubricants all pose a risk to curious or bored pets.

Never assume that because the product is in a spray bottle or can that it is "safe." Newer products will have safety information about the product, often with a phone number to call in the event of ingestion or exposure.

Common Household Poisons

8. Antifreeze (Ethylene glycol)

by evelynishere on Flickr

Antifreeze is a deadly poison. Even if you aren't a mechanic working on cars in the driveway, cars may leak this fluid at any time of the year. It is a bright green-yellow liquid that is sweet to the taste, attracting pets. One swallow may be lethal for small animals.
A safer alternative is propylene glycol.
Please note: this article has been provided for informational purposes only. If your pet is showing any signs of illness, please consult a veterinarian as quickly as possible.