Eat Play Live Barcelona !

Departure

2011-11-19T15:10:00.000-08:00

So, I am leaving on a jetplane. I don't know when I will be back again...

Having spent the last seven months in this city, I can say that I have had a true taste of all it offers - the good and the bad. I have both loved and hated it here at times. It was an experience which will go down in my book of life's memories.

I will miss :

Late nights - often talking with my US flatmate
The excitement and buzz which living in this city offers
The opportunity to meet so many people
A cheap and highly efficient public transport system
An abundance of activities and events - many of which are free
Inpromptu music by buskers playing music in metro stations
My cool and calming runs in the evening
The magnificent mount (MontJuic) in my back yard
The cheap products and goods at Lidl, Decathlon and Primark
My mom and her dinners
My Mexican friends - Zaida, Guille, Edson and Tea
The teachers and students at EICA
Meet Up events
Safety and freedom to do so many things
Open and accepting people who extend the arm of friendship with ease
High speed internet and uncapped internet usage
Friendly people in buildings or streets who often greet complete strangers with "Hola"

I will not miss :

Inferior living conditions (small, dark, old living spaces)
Hearing Spanish being spoken all the time and not understanding!
Poor customer service levels
Body odour of people on the bus or metro
Pavements padded with spit and dog poo
Washed clothing not drying for days - in the cool weather
Having to contend with crowds of people on public transport or the street
Tourist masses who amble along aimlessly, unknowingly delaying others

I am sure there will be many other things I will miss and will not miss but I will only realise once I am removed from this location / situation.

May I say a big "Thank You" for taking the time and interest in reading this blog over the past few months. I hope I have given you a taste of "life in Barcelona" through my postings. I might continue blogging from other travels I may take in the future but for the meantime nothing is planned. Until the next adventure, I say "Hasta Luego"!

Final day in Barcelona

2011-11-18T19:10:00.000-08:00

Today was my final day in Barcelona. There was much to do and it was an emotional end to my 7 month stay in this city which I have loved and hated. I made a final trip to Gran Via 2 Shopping mall to buy some things which I wanted to take home as they are cheaper here or not available there. My American flatmate has a visitor from Russia at the moment so there are 4 of us in the flat. Daniel is at work - as usual. Leon, Inga and I walked to the mall then we came back and Inga made a delicious lunch. I enjoy Inga. She is mature and very balanced. Leon certainly seems to have choice lady friends/visitors. They are all older than him! Rosa was going to come over to say farewell and have lunch but in the end she did not make it. I will have to post a message on facebook to say farewell.

Then I began my mad rush to deliver things I promised to people and to say my final goodbyes. First was Connie - who taught me Spanish in the very beginning. Then to Zaida - to deliver the director's chair. Then to see Leila - to hand over Spanish learning materials and other odds and ends. Then to my mom for dinner. It has been a hectic afternoon and an emotional day saying goodbye to so many people who I have shared the past few months with. I really have enjoyed the openness and the ease at which my friendships were formed here in Barcelona. The friends I made were great people who were very easy to get along with and who valued me and what I am as a person - not what things I have. That is one great things about Spain. People do not like you for your possessions. In many other places friendships are formed if you fit the mould of the type of person that is acceptable in the eyes of other people. Here in Spain people are far less judgmental and are more accepting.

And then home to continue my packing and get final arrangements done. I have packed and repacked the bags several times in order to get more into them. I have finally fit most things in... There are a few things I will have to leave behind. I took a final run at midnight. I ran up to the castle on the top of MontJuic and looked down onto the harbour below and the Mediterranean Sea. It is a great place and with inspiring views. That was my last run in this city. I enjoyed ending the day with a nostalgic run!

A homecoming for all...

2011-11-17T09:21:00.000-08:00

My American flatmate asked me to spare Wednesday night so that we could do a farewell activity. I arranged to meet Leon at the studio where he hosts his Wednesday night Salsa class. I left EICA, walking towards Plaza Urquinaona with Chloe. Chloe is a Chinese girl who grew up and studied in the USA but married an Irishman and is now pregnant. She and her husband have been in Spain for the last 6 months. She told me all her woes about living here and mentioned that they are going back to Ireland on 30 November. She has found it very hard to assimilate and is looking forward to going back to Ireland. I told Chloe that even my Spanish speaking friends (Mexicans) said that it is very difficult to break in with the locals here. Added to that, the fact that the Catalans do not speak English that well, so they are not readily going to befriend English speakers.

I arrived at the studio to find Leon sitting on a chair waiting for students. Nobody arrived though. So I sat and chatted to Leon and his partner Rosa (Spanish). Leon told me he is now at the point where he feels excited to go back to the USA. He is despondent about how things have worked out here and with the city life. Rosa is from the South of Spain but has moved to Barcelona after a 14 year period of living in San Francisco, USA. Rosa added that she would love to return to the USA as she thinks her country is so inefficient and that people have no ambition. She admitted that she likes the hard working nature and competitiveness of countries such as Germany or America. She is trying to get back to the USA at all costs...

We left the studio intending to go for a drink at a bar in the Gotico area. We found a great place which was about to close so only a quick coffee and then we moved onward to have falafel. Leon and I walked the streets of Gotico looking for a good falafel place. We stumbled upon Diana - one of my teachers at EICA. It was great chatting to her and her friend. I realised that when I am no longer in Spain I am going to miss all the social kissing which one does here. When you meet somebody you know or when you introduce yourself to people you do not know, it is customary to kiss on the cheek. At first I felt it a little awkward and was uncomfortable with it but now I do it without a qualm.

After bidding farewell to Diana and her friend, we made our way to Raval where we spent a few minutes at a house party in an abandoned building, before making our way back to a Falafeleria in the Gotico! It turns out that the falafel in the Gotico was not as good as we thought it would be anyway so perhaps we should just have stayed in Raval. A walking tour of the city just to buy falafel...

Helping Immigrants

2011-11-16T08:18:00.000-08:00

I love the school where I study Spanish. It is not just a school. Instead, it is an NGO which helps immigrants to immerse themselves into Spanish society. I was referred to EICA by a guy named Jose - whom I met at a Meet Up event. Jose used to teach at EICA a few years ago. He said he had a great time teaching there and he recommended studying Spanish there - for free. The courses are 3 months long and classes are four times per week, one and a half hours per class. That means 6 hours per week. The teachers are volunteers- who are not paid for their work. Each day of the week, we have a different teacher. This adds variety and interest to learning.

Cooking |: Front, from left : Rodrique, Seidou, Mariya, Husain, Leila, Chloe
Back, from left Teacher, Me, Kang Kang, Hua Hai, Muhammad

On Mondays we have Bep - who is an experienced teacher with excellent teaching skills. On Tuesdays we have Esther - who is a new teacher but has such a charming personality. On Wednesdays we have Jaume - who is an elderly gentleman but very kind and interesting. On Thursdays we have Diana who is a young and funky teacher with an pleasant personality.

The lessons are varied and introduce to us, grammatical matters as well as practical spoken language. We play games and do group activities too. We even go beyond learning out of books. We did some cooking lessons, visited a local market and had to buy fresh produce and went to a library and opened up library membership. We also had a presentation by a local government official on how to get the most out of government services in the city - free health, free studies, free counselling, free translation and many other free services. I am sure this was very well received by the student audience who are 99% illegal immigrants! In my class alone there are students from: China 3, Ghana 3, Bissau 1, Cameroun 1, Russia 2, Algeria 1, Morocco 1, South Africa 1.

Making Panallets : Rodrique, Leila, Mariya, Kang Kang

There is only a handful of legal immigrants who are students at EICA. I do like the diversity and the energy at EICA. There are some wonderful characters and such great people. Thanks EICA for an excellent service to people who are trying to speak Spanish or trying to become Spanish!

The Panallets are ready to bake!

Castanada

2011-11-15T19:16:00.000-08:00

Castanada is celebrated in the America as Haloween. On Friday 29 October we celebrated Castanada at EICA. Castanada is the day to commemorate the dead. It is common for Spanish people to go to graveyards and lay flowers on graves of their loved ones who have died. It is customary to eat confectionery called Panalletes during Castanada. In the lesson before Friday, each class had to make Panalletes.

On Friday we had to meet for the "Fiesta" of course. The fiesta kicked off with music from the different cultural groups represented at EICA. Many of the students are African so there was a large contingent of Africans dancing and playing unique African musical instruments. The staff at EICA were enraptured and joined in the dancing without hesitation.

Then came the Panalletes which we had made the day before in our classes. Unknown to us, they would have to be judged. Unknown to me, was that I had been selected as a judge. I took to my duties and agreed to assess the Panalletes. I never knew there were so many classes. Each class had their own tray of Panalletes. The judging took quite some time. Initially I thought it was only to assess the presentation and the creativity of each tray. But to my disappointment, we had to taste / sample each tray as well...

To be very honest, the Panalletes are a bit bland but not too bad. But after countless numbers of them, I did not want to see another Panallete. In the end I was just giving away points for taste - based on appearance but I did not tell anybody this . Perhaps that is why my class never won the prize for the best Panalletes. Well to be honest, our teacher never told us that we had to work on creativity and originality too. We did not even know there would be judges. It was a fun evening and I enjoyed the chocolate con churros - more than the Panalletes.

Farewell to the African

2011-11-14T06:55:00.000-08:00

On Saturday night I attended my farewell party. I am soon heading back to South Africa. The dark and mysterious continent! So my Mexican friends arranged a celebration. I am honored to have known them and spent the past few months having good times with them. Something I have learnt about Mexicans is that they live life. They have such positive energy and know how to find the joy of life.

On Saturday I met at the "designated point" - to begin my evening of surprises. We finally arrived at a community hall which was where the "fun" would begin. An African Dance and Cultural Show!! Something I had not seen in 7 months!! Gg thought it would be a wonderful way to end my visit to Spain. We lined up to receive the dinner - which was an African stew on a bed of cous cous. We then found a table to sit, and watch the show.

The Mexicans were mildly interested in the show as it was very boring and they did not see the point to the clapping activities (using the audience participation). The food was also somewhat of a disappointment. The only person who finished their plate was Zaida. She was obviously very hungry! The next day she said she cannot forget the delicious food!!

The dancing began. It was mainly African men who had oiled themselves up for topless African dancing - to African drumming. Gg showed keen interest. Zaida showed very little interest. Edson was busy on his phone all the time. Tea could not stop laughing. I pointed out that to enjoy African culture, one needs to have no expectations of being amused... African displays are educational or participational - not comical.

After about an hour of drumming, clapping and oiled bodies Edson said he had never seen such a strange Chippendales show in his life! We joked with Gg, teasing her that she would book her ticket to Africa the next day!! We certainly made our own comical event of the African Spectacular.

After a wildly exciting African Spectacular we headed for an Irish bar with live music. The music was brilliant. The atmosphere in the bar was little subdued - until we arrived. As soon as we got there, that changed. We began dancing and having a good time and the atmosphere was transformed. German tourists came up to join us. One German guy said he loved Spain so much that he will come back as he thinks the people are so vibrant and full of energy. Little did he know. These were Mexicans - not Spanish people!!

A brilliant night, with me arriving home at 4.30am and then sitting up until after 5am, talking to my American flatmate. These long Spanish nights are soon going to be a thing of the past...

Catalunya versus Spain

2011-11-13T09:26:00.000-08:00

Under an ancient Spanish unification process, all the various kingdoms or regions of modern day Spain came together to form one country - which is known today as Spain. Each of these regions has their own languages and cultures, traditions etc. So, is Spain one happy blend of people ? I don't think so.

There is a constant duel here in Barcelona. Barcelona is situated in a province called Catalunya. I have often noticed gatherings, street protests, people signing petitions etc - always expressing discontent with what is happening here in Catalunya. The local people think that Catalunya is suffering under Spanish administration and believe that if Catalunya was managed by a Catalan administration, things would be a lot better. Possibly yes, because the Catalans would have more power and resources to manage themselves.

Hundreds of years ago, Catalunya was one of the kingdoms in what is Spain today. There is a huge sense of nationalism here in Catalunya. The people do not want to be called Spanish. They prefer to be called Catalan. They speak their own language - Catalan. The sense of nationalism is ever present in the red and yellow Catalan flag which flies on most government buildings and many other places such as tourist attractions, and even the balconies of people's apartments. On local holidays the city buses sport Catalan flags. The flags fleet in the wind, displaying the sense of nationalism in Catalunya. There are so many holidays in this province that one cannot be caught unawares. You always see or hear the festivities. The holidays usually come with a display of local customs and culture - as well as fireworks and music!!

The Catalans apparently favour self governance and independence from Spain. They dislike the idea that Madrid is the seat of government. Madrid they think, is not the province which is the most economically productive. The Catalans believe that Catalunya contributes the most to the economy and therefore that they should have more influence in the way the country is governed and how money is spent - since Catalunya is contributing such a large portion of the money.

What do I think ? I think it is not going to be a fait accompli. I battle to see Catalunya becoming a stand alone country in the United States of Europe. I think it is too late for Catalunya to back out now...

La Boqueria

2011-11-12T12:38:00.000-08:00

Just off La Rambla is Barcelona's most notable food market. It is called La Boqueria. In Spanish "la boca" means "the mouth". Translated literally, this is the marketplace for the mouth. As you can imagine, this is the place you are going to go, to sample food and drink. Typical Spanish food and drink are on sale.

The place is very typical of a market. There is a mix of stalls selling fish, meats, vegetables, fruit, nuts, confectionery etc. It is a famous place. Tourists go there to get a traditional Catalan experience. You can find little eateries selling tapas and paella there too.

The place is not light on the wallet but it does offer an authentic experience if you are seeking a typical Spanish eating experience for the mouth! There are more tourists in there than locals though. Even if you did not know about it in advance, you will stumble upon it as you wander down La Rambla - and you will be enticed to sample something. You are assured of a sensory experience. The sights, smells, tastes and feelings will ensure you leave fulfilled.

Font Majica

2011-11-11T09:24:00.000-08:00

At the foot of the Nacional Palace there is a huge fountain. This fountain is called Font Majica in Spanish because it is a magic fountain. It is called the "Magic Fountain" because it is not just an ordinary fountain. It is a fountain with music and lights. In the Summer months the fountain springs to life four nights per week.

The show has begun. The crowds are swarming .

I have often jogged past there, and there were swarms of people all around the fountain. The show began at 9.30pm and continued until 11.30pm. Tourists begin to arrive at about 8pm though. It is advisable to arrive early to secure a good view.

The show is awesome. The light and music create such a mood. There are classical songs and there are modern songs too. Some of the songs get the crowds going. I have seen people dancing and people even formed a train and were dancing in a circle around the fountain. It is lots of fun.

The street leading up to the Font Majica is lined with smaller fountains.

Now that Winter has come, there are far fewer tourists. The fountain only operates twice a week. Fridays and Saturdays at 8pm. As I run past there nowadays, it is dark, crowdless and silent. Oh, for the Summer...

Barcelona's waterways

2011-11-10T15:41:00.000-08:00

Barcelona actually has 3 ports. Port Olympico is the port near the Olympic Village - which is where mostly smaller, private yachts are moored. Port Forum is where the expensive yachts and big private boats are moored. Port Vell is the old port, which is where the cruising and cargo activity takes place.

From the castle there are good views of Port Vell below. Port Vell is the city's oldest port. It is the largest and busiest cruise port in the Mediterranean. The port is a hive of activity with a large number of cruise ships which come and go. Several ferry services to the Balearic Islands also operate out of this port. Apparently close to 3 million passengers pass through this port yearly.

A cruise ship is berthed and containers wait to be whisked off.

Being strategically placed in the Mediterranean there is also a lot of cargo activity. There are always many cargo ships in the port, or waiting out at sea. Freighter ships and container ships bring tons of cargo to Barcelona each day. Countless containers are waiting in the port, to be delivered to other destinations. Barcelona bids farewell to many vehicles which travel by ship, to other parts of the world.

The working port

Part of the port has been developed into an entertainment area, with a mall containing high end shops, cinemas and restaurants. This Waterfront mall is hugely popular with tourists and locals seeking entertainment options.

Waterfront retail mall

Mont Juic Castle

2011-11-08T15:36:00.000-08:00

Just up from, and behind where I stay there is a castle on the hilltop. The castle is built right on the edge of the cliff so it affords panoramic views over the old city below, as well as the Mediterranean Sea. I go up there often as it is a perfect place for running. Nice off road terrain for my running - as well as scenic views to motivate me!!

Entering the castle, by bridge.

The cannons around the castle.

The castle boasts thick high walls and has very attractive gardens. I do not think it is on every tourist's agenda because it is not always crowded with people. Thus, it is a pleasant place to go to. In the Summer open air movies are screened in the garden outside the castle. A huge screen is placed against one of the tall walls and the movie is projected onto the screen. I have often run past there in the Summer evenings and seen a movie being projected onto the screen.

Open air cinema in the summer months.

Manicured gardens.

The history of the castle is rather interesting. It is the only place in the city of Barcelona where you can still find a statue of Franco - the former dictator of Spain. The castle was used as a prison for anarchists and political prisoners during the Franco dictatorship. The President of Catalunya (this region of Spain) was executed at the castle too. So it is a place the Catalans would not like as it reminds them of their oppression under Franco, the dictator. Catalunya never wanted to be part of Spain and did not like being governed by Spain. It has always favoured self-governance.

View of the sea.

View of the city bowl.

A home in the city

2011-11-07T17:24:00.000-08:00

People who live in the inner city are not spoilt for choice. In the inner city it is mainly apartment block upon apartment block. Most of the buildings are very old and not too appealing. There are others which offer apartments that are big and full of character - such as balconies, rooftop gardens, wooden floors and pressed high ceilings. The older buildings tend to have bigger apartments - as the rooms are more spacious.

Old, with character.

Old, without character

In the newer apartment buildings the rooms are often very small, with less character - balconies, wooden floors and pressed ceilings. The building I live in is one such example. The entire apartment is small and the rooms are small. The kitchen, lounge and bathroom are tiny. The bathroom is the worst. If one sits on the toilet, one's knees have to be pushed up to avoid being pressed against the bath.

Newer but very densely populated (Mont Juic)

Smaller and newer complexes in Mont Juic

There are few houses in the city. Most houses are in areas outside of the city. Up on the Mont Juic hill there are however a few streets with houses. The houses are not that small but they are indeed very old and offer no gardens or outdoor recreation area. Space is at a premium here...

Stand alone houses in Mont Juic

This evening at Spanish, there was a presentation by a local juntamento (municipality) officer. She came to give information about living in Barcelona and which services were available to immigrants or visitors. She stated that that this city has a population of close to 4 million people, of which 17,6 % are immigrants. She mentioned that most of the immigrants live in the Ciutat Vella (old city) district because the buildings were smaller and the rents were cheaper in this area. The living spaces however are not that desirable. A lack of light, a lack of ventilation, lots of noise, overcrowding and many other issues were mentioned.

Old buildings in Ciutat Vella

Any takers for a new abode in the inner city ???

I would prefer a home in the "burbs" but I just don't have that kind of money...

Ultra modern apartments in Hosta Francs (on the edge of the inner of the city)

The plight of African refugees

2011-11-05T18:42:00.000-07:00

I am studying Spanish at an NGO institute called EICA. EICA's aim is to help immigrants immerse into society. They offer Spanish courses to anybody, for free. Most of the people there are illegal immigrants who have sneaked into Spain and are on the way to legalising their stay here. In my class there are 5 African boys who are all 17 years old. Rachidu is from Bissau, Muhammad is from Ghana, Seidou is from Ghana, Khufulu is from Ghana and Rodrique is from Cameroon. The Ghanaians speak an African language. Rachidu does not speak a language which others can understand. Rodrique speaks French.

I was talking to the Ghanaians on Thursday after our Spanish lesson - which took us to a market, to practice buying food and asking prices etc. It was a useful and interesting lesson.

Khufulu and Seidou were the ones I spoke to. Kufulu has been here 6 months. Seidou has been here 2 months. They did not come together so they do not share the same experiences.

I begun the conversation by asking them why they are not in their countries, at high school. They told me their parents cannot afford to pay for them to go to school. Their parents are not in the higher class and do not have money. They do not go to school and are not looked after by their parents any longer. I was quite shocked. I know some Ghanaian people who are so well educated and who speak English with such eloquence. Then I asked how they came to Spain. They told me they came here by land and boat. They took buses, taxis or walked from Ghana to surrounding countries and finally made their way to Morocco. It was a harrowing journey which took months and exposed them to great danger. Nothing compared to the danger they faced when they would finally take the boat journey though.

They had to catch buses and walk between towns and cities in Africa. They would have to sneak across borders and wait until it was dark or safe to enter other countries without risks of being caught. It sounds very scary. They did not travel with passports as they were advised not to carry documents which would indicate where they were from. They said it was very hot and difficult getting across the desert to Morocco. It was also not a quick journey. The journey took several months as they would often have to stop in a town or city and work a while before they had money to move onwards to Morocco.

When they finally arrived in Morocco they had to earn the money to pay the boat master who would ferry them across the Mediterranean Sea to Spain. Spain is the preferred destination for so many immigrants because it grants permits to illegal immigrants after 3 years of being here. Once they finally had the money to pay for the boat trip they were able to complete the final leg of the journey. The aim being, to sail across the Med and land on Spanish shore. As soon as they were on Spanish shore they were safe and could begin to find their dream - to live a better life.

The boat trip was a frightening part. The boats leave from Moroccan shores. Many people were crammed into small boats. The boats depart for Spain but do not carry navigational equipment. The captains of the boats haphazardly guess where they are going. The crossing can take days. Captains do not know which way they need to go, to reach Spain. They see other ships and try to signal for help. Other ships will not allow them to get near. Other ships try to avoid the boats carrying illegals - perhaps for fear of being charged with assisting illegals or fear of being attached. One can never be sure if the boat is carrying poor refugees or a horde of pirates who will try to take control of the ship. So ships never help.

The journey can take a long time. There can be adverse weather conditions and rough seas. In the long hot Summer days, the passengers bake in the sun and many get so hot they dehydrate. Sometimes the boats get lost as they drift out into the Atlantic Ocean and are nowhere near Europe. People die from hunger and thirst. Sometimes passengers become so disillusioned that they jump off the boats and try to "swim" to land - in the hope that land is close by. Some of the people can barely swim so they do not know the dangers facing them - if they have to swim a long distance to reach the shore... People jump to their own peril.

Died swimming to shore

Some boats are discovered by Spanish Coast Guards. Khufulu told me of his boat being found by helicopters who then sent a Coast Guard boat to arrest the passengers. Once they were on the Coast Guard boat, they were brought to Spain and then detained in a refugee camp for 2 months. Khufulu told me that if you want to stay you have to have the right "story". If the Spanish do not like your story you will be put on a boat and sent back to Africa - which is why they do not travel with passports. After his 2 month stay in the refugee camp he was allowed to stay. He was not sent back.

Spanish Coast Guard

Seidou has a different story. He also made his way from Ghana to Morocco under difficult circumstances. But his boat journey from Morocco to Spain was effortless. He had no hiccups or getting lost at sea or being caught by the coast guard. He arrived on Spanish shores and then made his way up to Barcelona by begging, working and getting money any way he could.

Now that both boys are in Barcelona, I asked them if their lives are better. They both said No. They said that this is not the paradise they had thought they were coming to. They have many problems here. They have no place to sleep. They sleep on benches in parks or near the sea. (The police in Spain are very relaxed and do not bother to harass Africans. The Spanish seem to like Africans but dislike Arabs.) Tonight it is raining so I guess they are battling out in the rain. They cannot work as they do not have documentation which entitles them to work. They try to get any type of job they can - helping an older person to carry things or to clean a shop or wash dishes in a restaurant. Anything to make a couple of euros per day. They day I spoke to them, they had not made even one euro.

So why do they stay ? They told me that even though it is hard here, it at least offers them more than in Ghana. In Ghana they do not eat. Here they at least go to soup kitchens where they are fed 3 times a day.
In Ghana they do not even go to school. Here they come to school (they call EICA their school). They can learn Spanish but nothing else. But it is free for them. And most importantly, here they can earn something - even if very little. So it is certainly more advantageous being here than in Africa.

In the class most of us take notes during the lesson in order to remember and learn. I have watched the African boys. When they are asked to read a word or a text, they are hesitant because some of them cannot even read. The other day I was sitting next to Rachidu and I observed him writing. I think he is barely able to write. His eye-hand coordination was very poor. He wrote like a 6 year old and could not produce the letters correctly. I spelled a few words out to him and he did not know the alphabet. He kept asking me if the word was written correctly. After several attempts, I just said it was.

I was really taken back. I just assumed that everybody in the class could read and write but there was the proof, that even in 2011 there are still people who do not go to school, and cannot read or write. This was a very touching experience. These young African boys have travelled so far and with such difficulty to find a better life but they still face such hardships and yet they are happy and eager. They all come to lessons wearing a smile and participate enthusiastically. Rodriques especially. He is a clever kid and is very diligent. He tries so hard and is a cut above the rest.

So what does the future hold for these boys? They will have to wait for a family to "adopt" them. But some familes will simply adopt them on paper and not provide any means of support. They will be happy with even that. It is simply just a way to get the documents to stay legally. They are all trying to find somebody who will adopt them and then they will be entitled to permits which will enable them to go to school, to work and to improve their lives.

How complicated their lives are and they tackle their circumstances with such courage. My heart goes out to them as they face a cold rainy night outdoors.

This could be anywhere!

2011-11-03T05:28:00.000-07:00

The other night I walked past some Chinese kids playing on a pavement, outside a fruit and vegetable shop. I stopped to think about this. Was I in China? There were many Chinese people about. The shop itself was run by Chinese people too.

Something I have noticed since being here : this city does not feel like a European city at times. There are so many foreigners here, which makes it feel like it could be city in the Middle East or Asia. There are so many Chinese people here. Every other shop is Chinese run or owned such as the : Woks (restaurants) general dealers (selling plastic buckets, toys, umbrellas, hats etc) or souvenir shops (selling made in China souvenirs of Barcelona).

Then you have the Pakistanis. There are lots of them about too. They own small little convenience stores selling everything you can buy at the supermarket at inflated prices - when the supermarket is closed. The Pakis also seem to have their hold on all the Fruterias and Verdulerias in the city (Fruit and vegetable shops). But they are not too bad. Many of these Pakis stores are very pleasant. The Pakis usually speak English and are offer good service.The Chinese on the other hand do not! They just want to get your buck in their hands...

The best Fruit and Veg I know

There are the Marrocs. They look something like a cross between an Asian and a European. Tanned skin colour but dark hair and eyes. They are not very open people and I have not had much dealing with them. But there are a whole lot of them too.

There are Philippinos too. They usually are not too different in appearance from the Latinos (I am not even going to describe how many Latinos are here - there are too many of them). The Philippinos speak Tagalog but they have some sort of cultural ties with Spain and there are many of them about too. On the weekends they often have weddings in parks.

Oh, its a Filipino wedding in the park!

The bride

Then you have the gypsies. They are often seen rummaging though the bins to find food, recyclable clothing or recyclable materials such as metals, glass or plastics.

A rummager with this goods...

With all these people, is there any wonder that I am confused at times, thinking this is not a European city ? It feels like being somewhere in Asia. Muslims, Chinese, Arabic, gypsies. Wat 'n gemeng!

Barcelona, the city.

2011-11-02T05:12:00.000-07:00

So this city is on many tourists' agendas. Is it the lure of : the party atmosphere, the wonderful Spanish people, the beaches or the old buildings ?

Old city walls still exist in places

Decayed buildings are still standing

Talking of buildings, that are old. The part of the city called Gottico and Raval are right in front of the sea and stand like relics, of the medieval city. The buildings are old - crumbling even, dark and dingy. I would not bring myself to live in the Gottico, Raval or Cuitat Vella neighbourhoods. Those are far too depressing and congested for my liking.

Dark crowded streets of Gottico

High density living in Raval

Talk about congested. The population density of the inner city is very high. Something like 5060 people per square kilometre. A whole lot of people are boxed up into small spaces. Nice...

Barcelona is said to be :

One of the world's leading tourist, economic, trade fair and cultural sports centres.
The fourth richest city (by GDP) in the EU - and 35th in the world.
Europe's 3rd most successful city in terms of branding and assets.
The 7th most important fashion capital in the world.
Europe's 4th best business city.
Fastest improving European city.

A whole lot of things it has, but also a lot of things it has not :

Clean air
Space
High standard of living
High service levels
Efficiency
Politeness

Lidl

2011-11-01T11:23:00.000-07:00

The closest shop to me is called Lidl. Lidl is a German brand. It is all found over Europe though. In the beginning, I thought Lidl was some sort of cheap Russian store. It sounded odd and I did not think it was good.

It turns out that Lidl is German. After going to Lidl a few times I became a fan. I am an avid Lidl shopper. The prices are more than cheap. For example :

Vitesse boxed long life milk (1litre) at 49 cents per box.
Sondey Salted Crisps (170g) at 59 cents per packet.
Sondey Rice cakes (130g) at 99 cents per pack.
Pataya Ice Tea - lemon or peach (1,5 litre) at 65 cents per box. *Identical to Lipton Ice tea
Opey Digestive biscuits (800g - 2 x 400 g packets) for 99 cents. * So similar to McVitees digestives
Mister Choc chocolate spread (750g) for 1.99. * Just like Nutella
Master Crumble Muesli (600g) for 1.99. Loaded with hazel nuts and dark chocolate pieces
La Cestera chocolate croissants (5 in a pack) for 59 cents.

Lidl does not sell the mainstream brands. Instead, it sells only products bearing "produced for Lidl" label on them. What I have noticed is that the Lidl brand is comparable to the most mainstream brands though. It is not like Lidl is a cheap "no name" brand store. Its own brands are high quality and low price. Such a brilliant shop. Lidl, spread your wings ! Bring your cheap prices and quality goods all over the world. Please.

The times have changed

2011-10-31T05:30:00.000-07:00

Very literally!

Spain is two hours ahead of GMT in the Summer but one hour ahead of GMT in the Winter.

On Sunday morning at 3am the clocks went back an hour. That means that 3am became 2am. One night with a whole extra hour of sleep. Seeing that the weather is now dull and cool I guess the extra hour of sleep is not a bad thing.

Surprisingly, Sunday was a brilliant day. Winter made its debut with blue skies and sunshine. It felt like the clocks should not have gone back and hour. Spring was in the air, not Winter!! Whatever it may be, Spring is not in the air. The days have been getting shorter all the time. It had been getting dark at around 7pm but all of a sudden, with the loss of an hour, today it was darkening by 5.45pm! Shucks - dis nie lekker nie!!

I can sense the doom and gloom that Winter brings.

Mall culture

2011-10-30T08:34:00.000-07:00

I walk though the mall and am overcome with a feeling of de ja vu. It feels like I have been here before. The design is the same. There is a domed roof and sunlight is flowing in from above.

Plenty of chain stores and international brands. Quality goods. People sitting at coffee shops and restaurants. Cinemas. I have been here before. I am convinced.

The only thing that tells me it is not what I am thinking of, is the shop names and the language I hear around me. Spanish ...

Ok, so I am not at Cresta (a northern Johannesburg shopping mall). This place is called Gran Via 2. Far away from Cresta but similar in many ways.

Appreciation

2011-10-29T07:56:00.000-07:00

This morning the gray skies and the cool weather made me think that another day indoors was on the cards. So I have been occupied with indoor activities. A few minutes ago I opened the window as it looks like the sun is trying to emerge. As I opened the window a cool wind gushed through, into the room.

I was overcome with guilt at how privileged I was to experience a favourable climate and sunshine in Africa. Here in Europe people are caged in, in their homes without fresh air, sunshine or warmth. This flat I stay in has no heating so I am sure it becomes cold in winter. One of the bedrooms in this flat does not even have a window. Poor American!! He gets no fresh air or natural light in his room. All of these things come standard in Africa - light, air, warmth. Heating does not come standard in Africa, as it is not as cold. Very seldom would one find a room without windows. It is very uncommon - in fact rare. As for sunshine, there is an abundance of that.

I realise that life in Africa affords many privileges. Natural light, flowing oxygen, warmth, a favourable climate - things that in Africa, we tend to take for granted. It takes going elsewhere to realise how valuable these things are!

Late nights

2011-10-28T05:46:00.000-07:00

My American flatmate is not very upbeat at the moment. He has been caged in his room for days and is not very chatty - which he usually is. The weather might partly be to blame but he is getting disheartened. He is American and has come to Spain on a working / holiday trip. He is trying to get work and is always out there knocking on doors or emailing his cv to job adverts. As he is not an EU national he is experiencing difficulty in getting work and therefore in getting a life going here. I told him it is not easy to begin in a place where you do not have the right to earn a living.

The other night we were up until 4am talking about the developed world and the developing world, the privileges afforded to people of the developed world and the price paid by the people of the developing world. He is a Russian (by birth), Israeli (because he spent some years in Israel) American (because he now lives in the USA). He has three passports on the shelf in his room. He has the luxury of choice - 3 countries. He knows that Russia is a crouching tiger - that is poised to become a world power in the near future, but he still yearns to live in Europe. I suggested to him to go and try Russia as he has the documentation required to live and work there. He loves Russia but says it is still corrupt and work is hard to come by. I think he likes the sleepless night in Spain!!

There are 2 Russian ladies (in their late forties) in my Spanish class. I suspect they are here illegally as they are very secretive about themselves and their activities and their intentions. I discussed them with my flatmate. He explained that Russian people are not very proud of themselves and their country. Leon said the the first thing he would do if he was the president of Russia would be, to make the people believe they are great and their country is great. He says that Americans are taught to believe that America is the best place in the world and that they are the world's greatest people. It is their thinking which makes them so positive, stable and secure about themselves and their lives, their situations.

He said Russians have been made to undermine themselves and to believe that Russia is a bad place. I suggested to him that that is partly the result of the developed countries of the world. They have had so much power and influence over the developing world and have helped the developing world to formulate poor impressions of themselves and the countries they live in. But things are changing. The developed world is no longer in the favourable position it previously held, with this current economic climate. The developing world is starting to come into its own. The world is entering a new era - hopefully one where the developing world will have some power and influence and not be subjected to the power and influence of the developed world. I told Leon that Russia, Brazil, China and India are all countries that are on the rise and it will be interesting to see how the world leadership changes with new countries coming into the spotlight. Viva the developing world. Power to the poor!!

The best Sports Store in the world

2011-10-27T07:06:00.000-07:00

I have discovered the best shop. It is a shop which sells everything you would need to participate in sport. Sports clothing, cycles, rollerblades, balls, raquettes, camping gear, equipment, footwear, accessories etc. It stocks the well known athletic brands but also a French brand called Quechua - which seems to be a high quality brand but much cheaper than the Nike and the rest.

They often have sales so every time I walk past a Decathlon store I am tempted to go in and see if there is anything on sale... It is the type of shop you can go into and always find something to buy. The prices are excellent. Asics running shoes which are 95 euros at Decathlon cost more than 150 euros (equivalent) in other parts of the world. That just shows how reasonable prices are at Decathlon. I wish they were an international brand that had stores in other countries.

Summer Musical Festivals

2011-10-26T08:49:00.000-07:00

Throughout the Summer months - which are now over - there were countless musical performances and concerts all over the city. Residents come together in their streets or neighbourhoods to put together a concert. The concerts usually take place for a couple of days and are held at various times of the day or night throughout the week.

It is a unique and novel way to advertise your neighbourhood and to attract people to come come and enjoy the music - and buy a drink and a snack.

Different styles of music are played. Some Jazz, some classical, some rock, some pop, some Spanish... At night the mood gets very festive and people come out of their homes to join in the celebration. Probably because they are not able to sleep with all the commotion going on outside!

I do like that fact that there are so many people that can still play musical instruments. In many parts of the world the love of music is alive but not many people are able to play musical instruments because music is not taught in schools or it is not promoted as a talent which people should foster. What a shame. But here is Spain, music is alive and kicking!

From the Russians, with love

2011-10-25T05:17:00.000-07:00

Last night I went to Spanish lessons as usual from 5.30 to 7pm. When I left home at 5pm I did not have my umbrella or raincoat with me. I thought I would be fine and not need it - despite the fact that it had been raining all day! I was couped up inside so I had seen all the rain.

I was almost at the Spanish school when it came bucketing down. I was only about 300 metres away so I did not have too far to go. I arrived in the classroom looking like I had been dumped into the river and held under the water for a while. This is because I was wearing a polyester tracksuit - which allows water to soak through. The other students looked at me and felt pity and commented. Our teacher decided to direct the lesson around the weather. The first part of the lesson was spent learning terminology to describe inclement weather...

Throughout the lesson we were all keeping a close on on the weather outside. It was raining on and off. At the end of the lesson it looked like it has stopped raining. As I walked downstairs I noticed the crowd of students who were gathered inside the front door. Nobody was brave enough to head out into the heavy rain. So we spent a while chatting until it eased off.

I decided to make a go for it. Not long after, it was pouring again. I kept running towards the train station which is about 1 km up the street from the school. With about 300 metres to go, I stumbled across the two Russian ladies - Olga and Virginija - from my class, under their umbrellas. I tugged on Olga's back asking her to share her umbrella space with me. She got such a fright as she thought I was "one of those mad people" who lurk about the city. Virginija was kind enough to provide some shelter - with her nice big umbrella. As we finally reached the tube station, Olga handed me her broken umbrella saying that I could take it as I would have to walk from the bus stop to my flat after my metro and bus ride. They both live in the same place so they did not each need an umbrella. So I received an umbrella from the Russians, with love! I arrived home dry and grateful to the Russians...

How to get around Barcelona

2011-10-24T06:33:00.000-07:00

There are many ways to move around this city.

The bus - affordable but you need to know where you are going. (Get a day pass or a T10)

The metro (underground or subway) - cheap but you need to know where to go to, to see things. (Get a day pass or a T10)

Hop-on Hop-off sight seeing bus - takes you to the attractions and allows you to ride for 24 hours.

Hire a scooter and take the ride of your life... You need to know where to go and how to drive with Spanish drivers!

Be ferried around on a rickshaw. Pleasant but very expensive for more than a short journey.

Join a cycle tour and make some interesting discoveries. Fun and forces you to do some exercise.

But there is one other one which is not shown here. Walking. Perhaps the best way to discover any place - as you are right in the thick of things...

Prohibited in Barcelona

2011-10-22T17:23:00.000-07:00

The other day I was at the tourist information office in the city looking for information on tourist attractions. Amongst the brochures on display I picked up something called STOP Antisocial Behaviour. This was a pamphlet describing the types of activities and behaviours which are liable for prosecution. I opened the pamphlet and took a look at what was punishable behaviour in this city. These activities are not permitted in public spaces and trespassers will be punished with fines. The list is quite logical and reasonable for what should be tolerated in public. The fines are very heavy. But what shocked me is that all of these behaviours / activities I had seen being committed frequently by locals and visitors - without the police evening enforcing the law.

These include :

Illegal Hawking 500 Euro fine. Hawkers are everywhere !

Sexual Services 3000 Euros fine. Eastern European prostitutes sit on plastic chairs every hundred metres on highways ! African women grab men by the arm and bully them into sex on La Rambla and other places in the city. I have even had an aggressive attack by an African hooker. I had to fight this woman to get her off my arm.

Consuming Alcohol in Public Spaces 1500 Euros fine. Tourist and locals sit or walk in the street with drinks in their hands. Pakistani vendors walk around selling cans of beer in the streets and on beaches.

Urinating in Public 1500 Euros fine. There are open air toilets in certain places in the city (for men only). I have also seen many men just unzipping in a corner or alongside a tree or in front of the shore.

Skateboarding and cycling outside assigned areas. 1500 Euros fine. The city has special cycling paths and places for skaters all over but one is always having to watch out for bikes and skateboards which come out of nowhere and almost knock you down.

Graffiti and defacement 3000 Euros fine. Graffiti is everywhere. No enforcement...

Gambling 3000 Euros fine. Groups of organised Russian criminals run "gambling games" on La Rambla and target tourists who think they can easily turn 50 euros into 100 or 400 into 800. Double your money! Once your money is in their hands it does not matter if you win or lose, you will not see any of it again. They become aggressive and intimidate you. I have seen some innocent yet foolish tourists lose lots of money with this one. Some tourists even said they would call the police. The men just pack up the game and dash off to safety with their takings.

I was shocked to see how many things are punishable but which actually go unnoticed or unenforced. I think that perhaps the rest of the world loves coming to Spain because it is a place where there is so much tolerance and a blind eye is turned to so many things. Would the same people like to live here every day with all of this going on ? I guess not. So many people that live here complain about the tourist masses but I do not think this behaviour is limited to the tourists. The locals also take the law into their own hands and enjoy the liberties when they can.

Taking the law into their own hands...