Bugs Bug Me

Mice In My House

2010-09-30T11:49:00.000-07:00

With the weather changes that September and October bring is usually when you start to notice that you are sharing your home with rodents. As is gets cooler outside many of them will look for somewhere warm and safe to spend the winter. But is your home really a safe haven for them?

Not anymore!

Inspecting Your Home For Rodents

The inspection serves three useful functions:

1. Identifies the rodent species involved.

The most common rodent pests in livestock operations are the house mouse, Norway rat and roof rat. The house mouse is easy to recognize, generally 5-7 inches in length and gray in color. The common Norway rat, a large rodent usually 13-18 inches in length, weighs 12-16 ounces with reddish brown fur. The roof rat, found primarily along the west coast and in the southeastern United States, is a smaller black rat weighing between 6-9 ounces.

Rats and mice have unique behavioral characteristics. By identifying the species you can select rodent control products and strategies appropriate to that particular pest.

2. Determines the severity and location of the problem.

During the inspection, note where you've seen signs of rodents, which include burrows, droppings (rat droppings are about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length; mouse droppings are 1/4 inch), gnaw marks, and rodent pathways.

This information helps you determine the size of the infestation and where rodents are living and feeding. In that way, you have a better idea of how much bait to use and where to place it for optimum results. Rats and mice are nocturnal and are most active from dusk to dawn. Seeing them in the daylight usually indicates a heavy infestation.

3. Identifies where sanitation and rodent proofing are needed.

Look for the rodents' sources of food, water and harborage indoors and out, and wherever possible, get rid of them. Also note areas or entry points where rodents are getting into buildings, and, wherever feasible, fix or eliminate these entry points to "build rodents out."

Sketching a diagram of your facility that indicates problem areas is useful for keeping track of your baiting efforts. It'll help you evaluate what is working or where adjustments are needed in your rodent control efforts.

Steps to setting up a baiting program inside barns, and animal living spaces :

Place Rodent Bait Stations every 30-50 feet along the inside walls of all buildings. If necessary, stake or anchor the bait station to the ground or a permanent surface to prevent it from being moved and to keep the bait away from other animals.

Place bait blocks in bait stations.

For mouse problems, you could also place Mouse Bait Stations every 10-20 feet around the inside perimeter of buildings or wherever you've seen signs of mice. Be sure that these bait stations fit flush along walls or in corners with the point directly into the corner. They can also also be placed along walls adjacent to entry ways to intercept rodents as they enter.

Place one single-feeding type bait in each Bait Station. Inspect stations frequently until you have activity under control. Increase baiting in areas that have high rodent activity.

You may need to adjust the placement of the bait stations depending on the level of rodent activity. More frequent inspections and baiting may be required in some areas in the fall when rodents head into buildings for the cold season.

Keep up a fresh supply of bait. Rodents will reject rancid or spoiled bait. Bait securing rods also help bait blocks stay fresh longer by elevating them above the floor of the bait station, away from any moisture build-up.

Burrow Baiting.

Often the best way to control Norway rats is to bait their burrows. Place loose pellets deep in the burrow or crevice where you've noticed rodent activity. Try not to disturb the burrows.

Check burrows in 7 to 10 days after baiting. To monitor activity, close the burrow with wadded-up paper or cover with soil. Return the following day. A re-opened burrow means rodents still exist. Continue baiting. Check burrows periodically as part of your monthly maintenance program.

In Grassy and Weedy Areas.

The inspection may reveal rodent pathways leading to buildings. If you haven't already set up an outside perimeter baiting program, do so to intercept rodents as they move from their burrows or neighboring fields into buildings. Again, try not to disturb the rodents' habitat during baiting or they will migrate to other areas. Once you've gotten the population under control, trim back weeds and grass to get rid of rodent harbourage.

Conclusion:

No matter what method you deploy whether it be baiting or trapping, (I never recommend live trapping rodents) know that it will take some time and won't get rid of them overnight.

For example, last year in my own home I caught nine mice over the course of about three weeks. I used the same methods that are outlined here and they worked as intended.

Happy Hunting.

Wasp Warnings & How to Exterminate Them

2010-08-15T11:43:00.000-07:00

A Wasp Warning

by Zeroflex

Aug 15/10

As we enter the dog days of summer and the overnight temperatures remain greater than the day time highs of April and May, it is important to note that temperature affects wasps just as it does humans. The later in the season it gets and the hotter it is, the more aggressive they become.

To compound the problem, that once baseball sized nest in May has now grown to basketball or even beach ball size and has gone from a population of a few dozen to a few hundred or more. What seemed in the Spring as a few docile black and yellow pollinators buzzing about the garden, have become nothing short of warriors defending their nest with kamikaze like attacks on anything threatening.

When a wasp stings it leaves behind a pheromone marker letting the others know where to attack. Multiple stings can be life threatening to anyone even if you are not allergic. If you get stung within the vicinity of a nest it would be wise to leave the area quickly.

So What Now?

Chances are that if you haven't exterminated the nest by now, it's probably not in an area that poses any danger to humans and can be left to die on its own (which they do every Autumn anyway).

However, if the nest is in an area where it poses a threat to human safety, it must be exterminated and you can do it yourself with these tips. (If you are at all nervous about this or your palms are sweating just thinking about it, it would be best to hire a professional exterminator because the margin for error is thin and the results could potentially be catastrophic)

Nest Extermination

If you can not see the actual nest but rather a hole where the wasps are going in and out of (eg. soffit of the roof or wood siding) it is best to call an exterminator because this can be more involved.

If you can see the nest and it's within reach you're already half way done!

It is important to know that I am a professional exterminator and this is the method and techniques I use on most wasp nests but your situation may differ.

Step One: Observing The Enemy
From a safe distance just stand for a few minutes observing the flight path of the wasps as they fly in and out of the nest as if they were using an invisible runway. Never stand in the flight path!

Step Two: Approach With Caution
Approaching the wasp nest from the back side of it is always best as this will put you out of the flight path. If the rear is not accessible approach from the side that gives you the best escape route should you need it.

Step Three: A Time To Kill
How close you should get depends on how much activity there is around the nest. (Once treatment begins there will be an explosion of wasp numbers and at this point there's no turning back). Only get as close as you need to.

I use a Pyrethrin based aerosol can with the red straw attached. The can is attached to a pole (There is a special tool for this but an extendable pole, some tape and a length of string will allow you to make your own) so you can treat the nest from a safer distance.

This is the one I use

Some folks like to treat the entry hole of the nest but I don't. I make my own hole by puncturing the nest at the top with the red straw and fill it with aerosol until the nest is saturated and then clearing the area. You're done!

Successful elimination of all wasps will occur within the next 24 to 48 hours. If activity remains after 48 hours a second treatment is necessary.

A final word:
Time of day, temperature, weather conditions and actions of the exterminator are all factors in the decision of when and how to eliminate a wasp nest. Under ideal conditions this job is done just before dawn or just after dusk when it is cool and clear outside.

In the real world as a professional it rarely if ever happens that way. This is not meant to be a comprehensive guide but rather a view into how a professional exterminator eliminates a wasp nest.

Ant Season Is Here!

2010-05-13T16:53:00.000-07:00

First a word of caution.

Many pest control professionals consider Carpenter ants the most difficult pest there is to deal with in the industry. With all the training and experience they have, there are some homes that take considerable time and a number of treatments to completely eradicate these destructive insects. Many homeowners will call in a professional after they have failed to solve the problem themselves. This situation is usually more difficult to deal with because the homeowner randomly sprayed pesticides killing the obvious evidence and scattering the satellite nests. Of course this increases the cost. If you are not prepared to spend hours in your attic and crawl space wearing a respirator, rubber gloves, coveralls and a hat, then you may be wise to call a professional to do the job properly.

The process:

Find all of the Satellite nests in the home. (Read about nests on the identification and life cycle page)
Try to locate the "mother" nests and the queens.
Eliminate conditions that made the home a suitable habitat for the ants.
Treat the satellite nests with a suitable pest control method or product.

Don't:

Don't spray pesticides on ants outside the nests. Use a vacuum cleaner inside your home.
Don't use "ant drops, ant poisons, ant traps". Save your money for something worthwhile.
Don't squash foraging ants. Follow them.
Don't rip apart walls or ceilings to find the nests.

How to:

Finding carpenter ant nests requires a lot of time an patience. With years of experience, a professional will know where these nests are likely to be and will look for evidence of frass, the junk thrown out of nests. This is often caught up in spider webs in attics, crawl spaces, basements under decks and around the exterior perimeter under the soffits and below the siding. Sometimes sawdust excavated by the ants from the structure will be noticeable, but not always.

Following ants outside the nest is the best indication of it's location, but ants will often follow channels hidden from the hot sun, rain and your vision. Less than 10 % of the population will ever leave the nests so at times there are very few to follow. Knowing whether the ant you are following is heading for food, or has already eaten and is heading back to the nest is an indicator that some very experienced professionals are capable of seeing.

Listen for them. If your hearing is good and the home is very quiet you may be able to hear the rustling and chewing noise they make. A medical stethoscope is useful but the sound of a refrigerator or even a clock can confuse the inexperienced ear.

How to find the main nests (and the queens):

In some locations it would be impossible to find all the main nests among the trees, logs, stumps, buried wood and roots. Even if these nests are found, removing them can be a monumental task. All satellite nests remain in contact with the main nest. Workers can be seen carrying mature larvae from the overcrowded queen's home to new or established satellites of the colony. If you find the main nest, try to remove it physically. If you put toxic products into it, they may leach into the ground water and contaminate water supplies or fish habitat some distance away.

If you can not remove the nest, try to eliminate any favorable conditions that encourage them to move toward the home. Tree branches, fences, garden hoses, structural wood touching the soil, landscape ties and utility wires all provide an easy route to follow. A very fine dusting of diatomaceous earth around the perimeter base of the home will discourage all insects from crossing it to gain entry. This is short term and should be repeated frequently in the spring, summer and fall.

Pesticides, Poisons and Secret Formulas.

Toxic Sprays: Most pesticides available to the public will kill any insect that they come in contact with while still wet. Once dry, the residual effect is minimal and has very little effect on insects.

Ant Dusts: Diatomaceous earth is sold in a variety of containers with convincing trade names. The basic product can also be purchased in much less expensive plain plastic bags at most garden stores.

Toxic chlorpyrifos is now off the market and illegal to use in Canada and U.S.A.

Boric Acid dust: It is very difficult to inject into a nesting cavity without proper equipment. Do not put it in exposed areas.

Ant Poisons sold over the counter at most hardware stores have little if any effect on carpenter ants

Ant Traps are actually not traps. The little tin cans with holes in the side contain borax. They have no effect on carpenter ants.

Secret Formulas: If you find one that works, patent it immediately. Scientists around the world have been searching for years for ingredients that will attract and kill or repel carpenter ants. Some things that homeowners have tried include cinnamon, cayenne pepper, moth balls, boric acid and icing sugar.

None of them have been proven effective.

Disclaimer: This web page was compiled by a pest management professional, not an entomologist.

As a result, some of the terms used may not be accurate according to scientific terms of reference.
Our objective is to provide basic and interesting information for the average homeowner.

Ant Control Guide

2010-03-30T09:17:00.000-07:00

Are you ready for ant season?

Ants - What are they?

Ants may be black, brown, red or yellow. Adult ants range in size from as small as 1 millimetre (1/16 to 1/32 inch, e.g. little black ants and thief ants) to as large as 13 millimetres (1/2 inch) (e.g. carpenter ants).

Ants create new colonies by a process of swarming or budding. The appearance of winged queens and smaller winged males means that swarming is taking place. The ants may come indoors at this time, but this does not necessarily mean that the ants will succeed in colonizing in your home.

Depending on the species, a colony is made up of one or more queen and worker ants. The queens lay the eggs while the workers defend the nest, care for larvae (hatched eggs) and forage for food. The workers carry food back to the nest to feed the queen, larvae and pupae (developing young ants).

Carpenter ants are larger than other species although the sizes of the workers vary. They can cause structural damage to homes as they destroy wood to make room for their nests. Piles of sawdust may indicate you have carpenter ants (for further information please refer to Health Canada's Pest Note on Carpenter Ants).

Carpenter ants are sometimes confused with termites, but it is easy to distinguish between them: the termite has straight antennae and a thick waist, and the carpenter ant has a very narrow waist and "elbowed" antennae. Termites are present only in specific areas in Canada.

What can they do?

The species of ants commonly found in Canada are not aggressive, although some can sting. Ants should be tolerated as much as possible as they cause little damage in the garden. They can even be considered beneficial because they eat other insects such as young silverfish and moths.

Species that are known to invade homes in Canada may include the carpenter ant, the little black ant, the odorous house ant, the thief ant and the pharaoh ant.

Pavement ants can become a nuisance in lawns, gardens and pathways as well as indoors.

How can I manage them?

Ant colonies send out scouts to forage for food. A successful scout leaves a scented trail for other workers to follow back to the food source. Removing access to food and water is the easiest way to avoid all pest problems. Ants are attracted to many types of food. They enjoy eating sugary and greasy foods like peanut butter or crumbs and are also attracted to the "honeydew" produced by aphids on infested houseplants.

•Store ant-attractive foods in glass jars with rubber gaskets or in plastic containers with lids that snap tight.

•Keep kitchen countertops clean. Sweep or vacuum the floor frequently, especially around pet dishes.

•Rinse containers before disposing of them in the garbage or in recycling bins.

•Empty kitchen garbage containers frequently.

•Place composters at a reasonable distance from the house.

•Repair and seal as many visible cracks in the foundation and exterior walls of your house as possible.

•Indoors, caulk along baseboards, cracks and crevices to keep the ants from passing through your house--if necessary, use duct tape or petroleum jelly to temporarily seal cracks.

•Ants will not cross sticky barriers--try placing two-sided tape around the legs of plant stands.

•Place pet dishes in a shallow dish of water. Ants can't swim, so they won't be able to get at your pet's food.

•Flood ant nests repeatedly with a garden hose to encourage the ants to move farther away from the house.

•Pour boiling water and detergent down the nest to temporarily reduce the population of a colony.

Products

Foraging ants gather food and bring it back to the nest to feed ant colony members. A bait system therefore, must work slowly enough to allow the poison to be fed to all members of the nest. This is a highly effective way of eliminating nests.

Diatomaceous earth can be placed in the cracks and crevices as a non-chemical means of control. This powder is composed of microscopic fossils that scratch the outer 'skin' of ants causing the ants to dehydrate and die. Natural gum resins can be applied around the base of trees and vines.

Baits containing boric acid are generally of low toxicity to other animals.

•Place bait stations directly in the path of foraging ants, but out of the reach of children and pets. Ant trails are commonly found along baseboards, the carpet edge along walls or along the edges and inside corners of cabinets.

•Use plenty of bait stations. Two different baits at the same time will give better results.

•Keep baits available for at least two weeks, repeated bait applications may be needed.

•Do not use chemical sprays to kill ants while using a bait system or the bait system will not work. Reapply the bait if needed.

Numerous domestic class chemical products are available to control ants. These products may contain chemicals such as pyrethrins, pyrethroids, methoprene, propoxur, carbaryl and others. Always check the label to make sure the product is intended for indoor use on ants.

Chemicals, sprays and dusts can be used effectively as barrier and nest treatments. Applying a chemical directly on the nest may eliminate colonies. Anthills indicate where the colony has built a nest, so look for anthills in your yard or follow the ant trails back to the nest. Nests located indoors in wall voids can be treated with dusts that can be puffed into the area.

Chemical barrier treatments can be applied to baseboards or door and window-frames to prevent outdoor nesting species from foraging for food indoors. Spraying indoors where trails have been observed may cut off food and water sources for an indoor nest and encourage the colony to bud. If the treatment seems to increase the number of ants, have the ant species identified or try using a bait system to control them.

Responsible Pesticide Use
Before Purchasing a Pesticide

•Identify the pest correctly.

•Use physical control methods and alternatives to pesticides.

•Read the label directions and safety precautions before buying the product. The label must include the name of the pest to be controlled and the treatment location (e.g. indoor, outdoor, garden uses, pet treatment).

•Purchase only the quantity of product needed for the treatment.

•Consider hiring a licensed pest control operator.

Using a Pesticide

•Carefully read all label instructions and precautions before using pesticides.

•Do not drink, eat or smoke while applying pesticides.

•Persons and pets should vacate the area during treatment. Cover or remove quaria.

•If kitchen area is to be treated, cover or remove food, dishes and utensils.

After Using a Pesticide

•Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling any pesticide product.

•Do not permit persons or pets to contact treated surfaces until residue has dried completely.

•Provide adequate ventilation of treated areas after use.

•Wipe clean all surfaces that come in direct contact with food, such as counters, tables and stovetops, including indoor and outdoor surfaces.

•Always store pesticides out of reach of children and pets and away from food and beverages.

Accidental Poisoning

•Call a poison control centre immediately and seek medical attention.

•Take the pesticide container or label with you to the emergency facility or physician.

•Follow first aid statements on the label.

•In case of accidental poisoning of pets seek veterinary attention immediately.

•Report pesticide incidents to manufacturers (phone number on label). They are required to send them to Health Canada.

Disposing of Pesticides

•Do not reuse empty pesticide containers. Wrap and dispose of in household garbage.

•Follow the product label instructions or contact provincial authorities for disposal of pesticides.

Note:

•These are general recommendations.

•Consult the label for specific instructions.

•When in doubt, contact a professional.

Bed Bug Extermination Guide

2010-03-16T10:48:00.000-07:00

Bed bugs - what are they?
Bed bugs have an oval broad, flat body and a short, broad head. Shaped similar to an apple seed, unfed adults are around 6 to 10 mm long and brown and wingless. After feeding, they swell slightly in size and darken to a blood-red colour. The nymphs are shaped like the adults, but are yellow-white in colour.

Itchy welts on skin and/or black or brown spots on mattresses sheets, bed frames or walls often indicate that there is a bed bug infestation.

Bed bugs are also known by several names: wall louse, house bug, mahogany flat, red coat, crimson ramblers as well as others.

The bed bug eggs are white, about 1 mm long (1/25 inch), and are almost impossible to see on most surfaces. The female bed bug lays at least 200 eggs in her lifetime, at a rate of about two or four per day. The eggs have a sticky coating and are deposited in cracks and crevices, behind woodwork and similar hidden locations. They usually hatch in six to 17 days.

Newly hatched nymphs feed as soon as food is available. A bed bug goes through five moults before it reaches full maturity. Adults usually live for around 10 months, but can live for a year or more in a home where the environment is good for reproduction, with temperatures ranging between 21°C and 28°C, making it ideal for breeding year round.

Bed bugs can live from several weeks up to roughly a year and a half without feeding. Older bed bugs can go even longer without feeding.

What can they do?
Bed bugs can cause allergic reactions and itchy welts. Allergic sensitivity can increase if exposure is prolonged. They do not however pose a major health risk and are not known carriers of blood-borne diseases. Bed bug bites may not be noticed immediately because bed bugs typically feed at night when people are asleep.

Bed bugs are wingless and cannot fly or jump, but are able to hide in extremely small locations because of their flattened bodies - under wallpaper, behind picture frames, in electrical outlets, inside box springs, in mattress pads and in night tables. Long considered eradicated in most metropolitan areas, bed bugs are making a comeback. People now travel more than ever before, and bed bugs are hitching rides on clothing and luggage. They can now be found everywhere there is a high turnover of people, from homeless shelters to five-star hotels. They can also be accidentally transported around the house on objects. Bed bugs do not indicate a lack of cleanliness.

How can I manage them?
Because bed bugs are hard to get rid of, a pest control operator is a simple solution. Alternatively, you may decide to control them yourself. Usually more than one chemical treatment is required, and must be done in addition to physical control.

Be thorough in addressing bed bug infestations, because bed bugs travel easily, you may have to treat nearby rooms. Remove or reduce any clutter that might transport bed bugs.

Bed treatment
Infested mattresses should be steam-cleaned. Take care to use steam that is hot enough, and avoid excess moisture which could lead to mould. Inspect your bed thoroughly by examining the seams, tufts and crevices of the mattress as well as the box spring, bed frame and headboard. You may have to remove the cloth underside of the box spring to determine if there are bugs inside. Mattress pads and sheets should be washed in hot water and dried on the high setting. Infested areas should be vacuumed carefully with a brush attachment. Afterwards, dispose of the vacuum bag immediately and inspect the brush attachment for bed bugs. Bed bugs cannot easily climb metal or polished surfaces and cannot fly or jump. Treat the legs of beds to keep them away. Coat the legs with double-sided carpet tape or petroleum jelly, you can also place the legs of the bed inside glass jars or metal cans.

You may have to discard your bed. Holes or worn spots in the fabric may allow bed bugs to lay eggs in areas not easily reached, and there are restrictions on how insecticides can be used on beds.

Treatment of other items
Carefully examine all night tables, baseboards, dressers, headboards (especially padded ones), electrical outlets, any items stored near or under the bed, any nearby carpeting or rugs, picture frames, switch plates, inside clocks, phones, televisions and smoke detectors - in short, anything and everything that is in the room where the infestation has been noted. Upholstered chairs and sofas can also harbour bed bugs and should be treated with careful vacuuming and laundering of all possible parts (cushions, slipcovers, skirts, etc.).

Smaller items that cannot be laundered can sometimes be treated by heating (temperatures greater than 50°C) or freezing. Some items can be wrapped in plastic wrap and placed outdoors on a hot sunny day or in sub-zero temperatures in the winter. However, the freezing temperatures must be maintained for a prolonged period of time (e.g., four days of cold exposure at 0°C) to ensure that the bed bugs are killed.

Prevention
To prevent future bed bug infestations, mattresses must be completely enclosed. They can be wrapped in zippered bed encasements available from allergy supply companies, with duct tape over the zipper. Mattresses can also be wrapped and sealed in plastic film. Be cautious about taking in second-hand furniture, bedding, mattresses or beds. Inspect and clean them before bringing them home. When you travel, inspect the mattress and headboard in the hotel room, do not bring your pillow from home, and do not put your suitcase on the bed.

Products
Domestic class products available to homeowners will generally contain the active ingredients pyrethrin or diatomaceous earth.

Several commercial class products are available to professional pest control operators. These may include low-odour sprays, dusts or aerosols; your pest control operator will select the best product for your particular situation.

Note: Bed bug infestations can be extremely difficult to treat, and repeat applications may be required. Always follow the pesticide label directions to minimize exposure and maximize efficacy of the product. Between applications of pesticide products, keep monitoring the situation to physically control ongoing and prevent future infestations.

Responsible Pesticide Use
Before Purchasing a Pesticide
•Identify the pest correctly.
•Use physical control methods and alternatives to pesticides.
•Read the label directions and safety precautions before buying the product. The label must include the name of the pest to be controlled and the treatment location (e.g., indoor, outdoor, garden uses, pet treatment).
•Purchase only the quantity of product needed for the treatment.
•Consider hiring a licensed pest control operator.

Using a Pesticide
•Carefully read all label instructions and precautions before using pesticides.
•Do not drink, eat or smoke while applying pesticides.
•Persons and pets should vacate the area during treatment. Cover or remove aquaria.
•If kitchen area is to be treated, cover or remove food, dishes and utensils.

After Using a Pesticide
•Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling any pesticide product.
•Do not permit persons or pets to contact treated surfaces until residue has dried completely.
•Provide adequate ventilation of treated areas after use.
•Wipe clean all surfaces that come in direct contact with food, such as counters, tables and stovetops, including indoor and outdoor surfaces.
•Always store pesticides out of reach of children and pets and away from food and beverages.

Accidental Poisoning
•Call a poison control centre immediately and seek medical attention.
•Take the pesticide container or label with you to the emergency facility or physician.
•Follow first aid statements on the label.
•In case of accidental poisoning of pets seek veterinary attention immediately.
•Report pesticide incidents to manufacturers (phone number on label). They are required to send them to Health Canada.

Disposing of Pesticides
•Do not reuse empty pesticide containers. Wrap and dispose of in household garbage.
•Follow the product label instructions or contact provincial authorities for disposal of pesticides.
Note:
•These are general recommendations.
•Consult the label for specific instructions.

Mr. Roach

2010-03-07T10:08:00.000-08:00

Mr. Roach
Cockroach extermination tutorial. I can't believe this method was standard practice!!! A house wife using Chlordane right out of a jar!

Spring Pest Control - Common Pests That Appear in the Spring Time

2010-03-06T21:58:00.000-08:00

Spring Pest Control - Common Pests That Appear in the Spring Time

By Guilherme Oliveira

Are large black ants showing up in your kitchen or bathroom?

When the temperature warms to approximately 60 degrees, carpenter ants come out of dormancy and will forage and seek for food and nesting places. They can be seen both inside and outside of your home. They may be coming from an outside nest or may have already established a colony in the walls of your home. Carpenter ants will create tunnels in wood, causing the homeowner serious structural damage if left untreated.

Are you seeing bees in your home in early spring?

These are typically a wasp, hornet or yellow jacket queen bee, generally who have overwintered in your wall voids and attics. Once awake, they will look to lay eggs and establish new colonies. If left untreated, the bees will establish colonies and become a bigger problem.

Is there carpenter bee damage around your home?

Chances are if you had carpenter bees in the past, they have been dormant in the winter and will emerge in the spring to lay their eggs. The newly hatched eggs will emerge in late summer. This new generation will often drill new holes and nest in the same areas. A professional residual barrier is recommended for prevention.

Are small black ants around the counter tops in your kitchen, dog feeding areas, children play areas, and outside your home where mounds of dirt are pushed up from the soil?

These are signs of Pavement Ants. They are nuisance pests. Typically they are found outside in the soil but will seek out food in your home. Their colonies can be quite large and will not decrease unless treated.

Are spider webs creating a nuisance around your home?

Spiders can be found in basements, garages, porches and other sheltered areas. Spiders come out to find food and feed on other pests. Spider infestations are usually the result of other insects being present around your home. Preventative treatments of these insects will help reduce the spider problem.

For the best results dealing with spring pests, we highly recommend an Integrated Pest Management Plan or IPM Plan. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a program designed to prevent infestations and eliminate any pest problems by reversing and eliminating conditions that are conductive to pests. This approach in conjunction with a maintenance plan will keep pests under control effectively.

Professional service is highly recommended for these spring pests. Preventive treatments will give you and your family peace of mind.

Precision Pest Control is a pest control company in Connecticut. Although we seek to inform all readers about common pests and pest control, we only provide pest control in Connecticut. Please visit our website for more information on common pests and to request services if you reside in Connecticut.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Guilherme_Oliveira

How to Correctly Identify Bed Bugs Infestation

2010-03-05T20:42:00.000-08:00

HOME :: Home-Improvement / Pest-Control How to Correctly Identify Bed Bugs Infestation

By Markus Jon Skupeika

In getting rid of bed bugs, there is much more to learn than just processes of how the pests could be eliminated. To learn about those other important things is a big aide in completely keeping your home and yourself free from the bugs many ill effects. And among those other things that you must learn is how it is to correctly identify their infestation.

To correctly determine the said pests' infestation is actually the first step of every process of eliminating the pests. If you fail to effectively complete it, you won't be able to successfully get rid of bed bugs. More than that, you'll end up just wasting your money and putting your home and family at risk.

Of course, the opposite of those mentioned are the ones you'll experience if you get to correctly identify the said pests infestation. You can not just stand in your door and look at your home and the things in it though to determine that the pests are there and that they really are the ones infesting your home.

It basically takes some work to be able to correctly identify bed bugs infestation. And along with that, time will be also needed. Specifically, they will be for implementing the following steps.

Know how bed bugs look like - To confirm that they are infesting your home, you have to know what they look like first. There are other bugs that resemble them and they could infest your home too. If you can't differentiate them from others, you can end up implementing an inappropriate elimination process that could possibly cause more negative things.

Know the symptoms of their infestation - There are things that can give you hints about the pests presence. Those are discarded shells, dark spots on fabrics and surfaces, which can be their droppings or an indication that they have been accidentally crushed, and a foul-sweet smell. To know these symptoms can help you detect the infestation earlier and therefore prevent its worse effects.

Check their possible hiding spots - Know where the said pests would usually go to hide. Where the infestation starts can help you determine if they really are bed bugs.

In order to successfully eliminate bed bugs, you have to determine first that they indeed are the ones infesting your home. And so, you should really learn how to correctly identify their infestation from others.

The correct identification of bed bugs infestation is a big part of its elimination. Learn how to get the process done to get rid of bed bugs more effectively.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Markus_Jon_Skupeika

Spider Removal: Pest Control For Spiders

2010-03-05T12:47:00.000-08:00

Spider Removal

Spiders have an ominous, but often undeserved reputation. Though most spiders are venomous and considered predators, of the thousands of species found in The United States, few are actually considered a health threat. In fact, spiders are actually helpful in controlling other pests in the home or garden since they feed on other insects and spiders. They generally bite and inject venom into their prey. Spiders, however, rarely bite humans.

Although spiders are often unpopular, the venom of most species is not very toxic to humans, usually resulting in no more than a slight swelling, inflammation, or itching sensation. Most spiders’ fangs are too small or weak to puncture human skin. Spiders usually will not attempt to bite unless accidentally trapped against the skin or grasped, although some species actively guard their egg sacs or young.

Two spiders that can be a health risk are the brown recluse and black widow.

One of the most common misconceptions about spiders is that they are insects. Spiders are arachnids and are actually closely related to mites, ticks and scorpions. Spiders have two body parts (cephalothorax and abdomen), eight legs and usually six to eight eyes, while insects are classified by having three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen), six legs, and generally two compound eyes or up to three single eyes. The average life span of a spider is usually one to two years, but some can live five years and up to 20 years.

Life Cycle and Habits
Spiders lay eggs within a silken egg sac that is often ball-shaped and either hidden in a web, affixed to a surface, or carried by the female. Spiders may produce several egg sacs, each containing up to several hundred eggs. A spider grows by shedding its skin (molting), usually four to twelve times before maturity. In many species, the mature male often wanders about in search of a mate. Some species of spiders may live for years, but most spiders only survive for one season.

All spiders produce silk, which is secreted as a liquid through the spinnerets and hardens on air contact. Spiders use silk for a variety of purposes, such as making egg sacs, capturing prey, holding prey, making shelters or retreats, and transferring sperm during mating. Also, spiderlings extrude silk threads that enable them to be transported by air currents, a process called “ballooning.”

Spiders are predators that typically feed on living prey. They produce venom that is poisonous to their normal prey of insects, mites, and other small arthropods. Venom is injected through the hollow fangs to immobilize the prey and begin the digestion process. Spiders can only ingest liquids, so they either inject or regurgitate digestive fluids into the prey. They then suck in the digested liquid food.

Spiders use a variety of tactics to capture prey. Some species are web builders that use webbing to ensnare their prey. Others are active hunters that actively search for their prey. Passive hunters are spiders that lay in wait for their prey rather than searching for it.

Control Measures
The simplest method of controlling spider infestation is to reduce the pest population (other insects) inside the home so they seek a more dependable food supply outside the home. Control of spiders is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, exclusion, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. IPM requires a thorough inspection of the building to locate the pest and its harborages. An inspection should be done at night if the species is nocturnal.

An important first step is to correctly identify the spider, as this determines which management tactics to adopt that take into account specific biology and habits. For example, if the spider is a web builder, control efforts should target its web because that is where this spider spends most of its time. On the other hand, active hunters are spiders that move about widely, and some species are most likely to contact insecticide-treated surfaces at ground level.

Within each of the following categories, particular tactics may be more or less applicable, depending on the species of spider:

Preventing spider bites
Shake out clothing and shoes before getting dressed. Inspect bedding and towels before use.
Wear gloves when handling firewood, lumber, and rocks (be sure to inspect the gloves for spiders before putting them on). Remove bedskirts. Move the bed away from the wall. Don’t store boxes and other items underneath beds. Exercise care when handling cardboard boxes (some spiders may inhabit the space under folded cardboard flaps).

Exclusion
Install tight-fitting screens on windows and doors; also install weather stripping and door sweeps. Seal or caulk cracks and crevices where spiders can enter the house. Equip vents in soffits, foundations, and roof gables with tight-fitting screens. Install yellow or sodium vapor light bulbs outdoors since these attract fewer insects for spiders to feed upon. Many web-making spiders set up residence near lights that remain on at night. Locate such lights away from the house or turn them off when not needed. Tape the edges of cardboard boxes to prevent spider entry. Use plastic bags (sealed) to store loose items in the garage, basement, and attic.

Sanitation
Remove trash, old boxes, old clothing, wood piles, rock piles, and other unwanted items.

Eliminate clutter in closets, basements, attics, garages, and outbuildings.

Store items off the floor and away from walls in basements, crawl spaces, attics, garages, and outbuildings in order to reduce spider harborage sites. Eliminate household pests (prey) such as flies, ants, and cockroaches that attract spiders. Do not stack wood against the house. Remove heavy vegetation and leaf litter around the foundation. Wash spider webs off the outside of the house using a high-pressure hose.

Non-chemical control
Capture the spider and release it outdoors. An effective technique for capturing hunting spiders is to place a cup over the spider and then slide a piece of paper underneath to entrap it.

Dust and vacuum thoroughly to remove spiders, webs, and egg sacs (dispose of the vacuum bag in a container outdoors). Outdoors, use a water hose or broom to regularly destroy any webs that are constructed on or around the house. Spiders often move elsewhere when their webs are regularly destroyed.

Use a rolled up newspaper or fly swatter to kill individual spiders. Use sticky traps or glueboards to entangle spiders. Eliminate or shield outdoor lights or bright indoor lights that attract the spiders’ insect food source.

Trim vegetation around the building foundation and remove debris to discourage insects and spiders from living next to a structure. Seal openings and install screens and door sweeps to prevent spiders (as well as other unwanted pests) from moving indoors.

Insecticides
There are many labeled pesticides for spider control. Some are labeled for homeowner use, while others are labeled only for the licensed, certified pesticide applicator. If insecticides are used, read the label and follow the directions carefully. A pest professional is familiar with the safe use of insecticides and may be the best choice to safely control spiders.

Individual exposed spiders can be killed with a nonresidual aerosol spray, but any egg sacs will be unaffected. It generally is best to use a vacuum cleaner so that the egg sac is removed from the premises.

For web builders, insecticide treatments should be applied so that the chemical contacts spiders in their webs. A nonrepellent insecticidal dust is useful to treat webs because the dust clings to the silk and is likely to be contacted by the spider. Residual dusts can be applied to voids and inaccessible areas where spiders may hide.

A wettable powder or microencapsulated “slow-release” formulation of a residual insecticide can be applied to corners, behind and under furniture, behind stored items, etc. to control active hunting spiders. This approach also is useful to prevent establishment of new spiders. Aerosol flushing agents such as pyrethrins, though ineffective by themselves in providing long-term control, can cause spiders to move about so that they contact treated surfaces.

Residual liquid sprays can be applied to the outside perimeter of the home (including under eaves, patios, and decks; behind window shutters), cracks and crevices of decorative molding, undisturbed corners, and other suspected spider harborages. Residual liquid sprays applied to the outside perimeter of the home are not very effective for species that display web-sitting behavior.

Bed Bug Bites Symptoms

2010-03-05T09:21:00.000-08:00

Detecting Symptoms Through Bed Bug Bites Pictures

By Diella Pierce

A lot of news reports over the years have confirmed the presence of bugs in upscale hotels and this means that poor sanitation is not the only thing that causes bugs to grow and multiply. They live in any piece of furniture, clothing, curtains, drapes and bedding. They spread by crawling and they can pretty much contaminate multiple rooms in a home. They can also be present in boxes, drawers and suitcases. They can be anywhere! Waking up with bug bites is surely one of the things you would hate to happen. How will you know that the bugs are the culprit? Look up some bed bug bites pictures to help you identify and compare the ones that you have.

Bug bites are raised red bumps that are very itchy. They are also inflamed and they are usually lined up in a row or sometimes they are clustered. Some people can go on for days without noticing the bites but others on the other hand tend to develop severe reactions like blisters and hives. Search for bed bug bites pictures over the internet so you'll know exactly what they look like. If at all possible, do not scratch the affected area because if you do you are increasing your chances of infection. Calamine lotion and hydrocortisone both helps ease the itching.

Bed bug bites pictures will help you identify symptoms. This will allow you to treat the bites properly. There are a couple of things you can do to ease the itching and inflammation and one of which is by crushing Vitamin C tablets into powder, add a little bit of water to make a paste then apply directly onto the affected area. You can also dab tea tree oil. It's effective in relieving the itch because of its antiseptic properties.

You can look at bed bug bites pictures in Google or Flicker. These are the 2 of the most popular sites to search for images. It's very easy to do it in Google, just type "bed bug bites" and click the "Images" link and then there will be thousands of images that you can look at. Flicker on the other hand is a photo sharing site and the images you will see there are posted by victims of bed bugs.

I can't stress the importance of proper detection of symptoms enough, this is the only way that you will be treated properly. Different skin rashes or infections need different approach.

To check out bed bug bites pictures, feel free to visit http://www.killbedbugs101.com./

Article Source: http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Diella_Pierce

Green Your Garden: Natural Pest Control

2010-03-01T19:16:00.000-08:00

Not only is keeping pests out of your home important, but keeping them out of your garden can save you a lot of frustration. Green Your Garden: Natural Pest Control is a great article with tips on keeping your garden pest free.

Pest Control & Safety

2010-03-01T16:49:00.000-08:00

Safety is paramount and I found some great tips in this Article on Safety

Bald Faced Hornets Nest

2010-02-28T10:20:00.000-08:00

I shot this video last summer. Luckily it was low enough in the bush that I could get this close without having to be on a ladder. (Because ladders do not provide a quick getaway should you need one)

Inspecting Your Home For Rodents

2010-02-25T20:59:00.000-08:00

The inspection serves three useful functions:

1. Identifies the rodent species involved.

The most common rodent pests in livestock operations are the house mouse, Norway rat and roof rat. The house mouse is easy to recognize, generally 5-7 inches in length and gray in color. The common Norway rat, a large rodent usually 13-18 inches in length, weighs 12-16 ounces with reddish brown fur. The roof rat, found primarily along the west coast and in the southeastern United States, is a smaller black rat weighing between 6-9 ounces.

Rats and mice have unique behavioral characteristics. By identifying the species you can select rodent control products and strategies appropriate to that particular pest.

2. Determines the severity and location of the problem.

During the inspection, note where you've seen signs of rodents, which include burrows, droppings (rat droppings are about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length; mouse droppings are 1/4 inch), gnaw marks, and rodent pathways. This information helps you determine the size of the infestation and where rodents are living and feeding. In that way, you have a better idea of how much bait to use and where to place it for optimum results. Rats and mice are nocturnal and are most active from dusk to dawn. Seeing them in the daylight usually indicates a heavy infestation.

3. Identifies where sanitation and rodent proofing are needed.

Look for the rodents' sources of food, water and harborage indoors and out, and wherever possible, get rid of them. Also note areas or entry points where rodents are getting into buildings, and, wherever feasible, fix or eliminate these entry points to "build rodents out."

Sketching a diagram of your facility that indicates problem areas is useful for keeping track of your baiting efforts. It'll help you evaluate what is working or where adjustments are needed in your rodent control efforts.

Steps to setting up a baiting program inside barns, and animal living spaces :

Place Rodent Bait Stations every 30-50 feet along the inside walls of all buildings. If necessary, stake or anchor the bait station to the ground or a permanent surface to prevent it from being moved and to keep the bait away from other animals.

Place bait blocks in bait stations.

For mouse problems, you could also place Mouse Bait Stations every 10-20 feet around the inside perimeter of buildings or wherever you've seen signs of mice. Be sure that these bait stations fit flush along walls or in corners with the point directly into the corner. They can also also be placed along walls adjacent to entry ways to intercept rodents as they enter.

Place one single-feeding type bait in each Bait Station. Inspect stations frequently until you have activity under control. Increase baiting in areas that have high rodent activity.

You may need to adjust the placement of the bait stations depending on the level of rodent activity. More frequent inspections and baiting may be required in some areas in the fall when rodents head into buildings for the cold season.

Keep up a fresh supply of bait. Rodents will reject rancid or spoiled bait. Bait securing rods also help bait blocks stay fresh longer by elevating them above the floor of the bait station, away from any moisture build-up.

Burrow Baiting.

Often the best way to control Norway rats is to bait their burrows. Place loose pellets deep in the burrow or crevice where you've noticed rodent activity. Try not to disturb the burrows.

Check burrows in 7 to 10 days after baiting. To monitor activity, close the burrow with wadded-up paper or cover with soil. Return the following day. A re-opened burrow means rodents still exist. Continue baiting. Check burrows periodically as part of your monthly maintenance program.

In Grassy and Weedy Areas.

The inspection may reveal rodent pathways leading to buildings. If you haven't already set up an outside perimeter baiting program, do so to intercept rodents as they move from their burrows or neighboring fields into buildings. Again, try not to disturb the rodents' habitat during baiting or they will migrate to other areas. Once you've gotten the population under control, trim back weeds and grass to get rid of rodent harborage.

Mouse Facts

2010-02-25T20:23:00.000-08:00

Mice travel over their entire territory daily, investigating each change or new object that may be placed there.
Mice have poor vision, hence their activity patterns rely heavily on smell, taste, touch, and hearing.
Mice use the long sensitive whiskers near the nose and hairs on the body as tactile sensors. The whiskers and hairs enable the mouse to travel in the dark, adjacent to walls in burrows.
Mice also have an excellent sense of balance, enabling them to walk along telephone wires, ropes and similar thin objects.
Mice are excellent jumpers, capable of leaping at least 12 inches vertically.
Mice can jump against a flat vertical surface using it as a spring board to gain additional height.
They can run up almost any vertical surface; wood, brick, weathered sheet metal, cables, etc.
They can easily travel for some distance hanging upside down.
Although they are good swimmers, mice tend to take to water only if left with no other alternative.
Mice are basically nocturnal in nature.
House mice breed throughout the year and can become pregnant within 48 hours of producing a litter.
There are usually about 6 mice to a litter and females may produce as many as ten litters (about 50 young) per year.
It takes 18 to 21 days for gestation, and 35 days for a mouse to mature. Most mice live anywhere from 15 to 18 months.
They make their nests out of the same types of soft materials as rats, and as many as 3 females may use the same nest.
They commonly nest in insulation in attics, also in stoves and under refrigerators.
Mice do not travel far from their nest, about 12 to 20 feet.

Toronto Public Health

2010-02-24T10:27:00.000-08:00

Bed Bugs

Introduction
Over the last couple of years, Toronto Public Health has received an increase in calls regarding bed bugs. It is possible for anyone to become infested with bed bugs, which are small biting insects that multiply quickly and travel easily. An infestation can cause anxiety and a feeling of shame. They can also cause secondary infections, allergic reactions and financial hardship.

For the public
If you are concerned about bed bugs.
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/infoforpublic.htm

Fact Sheets
Learn how to prevent or treat infestations.
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/factsheets.htm

Toronto Bed Bug Project Survey
Fill out our confidential online survey
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/survey.htm

The Toronto Bed Bug Project
Community partners seeking solutions.
http://www.toronto.ca/health/bedbugs/torontobedbugproject.htm

7 Questions to Ask a Bed Bugs Exterminator Before Hiring

2010-02-10T22:53:00.000-08:00

So you have studied everything about bed bugs and have first hand everyday experience of what they look like and what their bites are like. Now you are one step away from getting qualified help but how do you select the right bed bug exterminator?

The internet has made this quest easier. Very often you do not need to even leave your chair to get dozens of companies and telephone numbers. However, if you want to get rid of the bed bugs, there is some important information that you will need to know before and not after workers start treating your infested house.

I will provide you a list of questions that you should ask companies that provide pest management services. A confident and certified exterminator company will be glad to answer all your questions, address your concerns and develop a strategy specifically for your case. Here are the questions:

1. Do they have references of the people whose premises they have cleaned of namely bed bug infestation? It is probably the most important question as it will give you information from the third party about practical skills and experience of the company.

2. Do they have a full license? License is, in a way, another third party reference but from a qualified and accredited source. If the company has no license you should be ware of them and whatever their other answers are, I would recommend finding somebody with a license.

3. Do they have all needed insurance: like public liability and professional indemnity? Obviously, you want to find someone who has both of them.

4. What is their experience in the business? If they have been working in extermination for several months, let them learn and gain experience in somebody else and not your house. You need a company with at least years of experience and good track record.

5. What is their standard procedure? You have probably studied enough by now to know that there should be an integrated approach and strategy to extermination and not just random spraying of questionable identified insecticides.

6. Do they include you in their plan? They should do it. There is some due preparation for treatment that can be done only by you. Any professional exterminator should give proper recognition to the important stage of pre-treatment. You will have to wash up clothes and clean the places that have been contaminated by the insect infestation. If the prospective provider neglects your participation and all these important measures, contact a better one.

7. What do they guarantee? Some guarantee is due but no one can guarantee a 100% effectiveness of the methods they use because bed bug infestation is difficult to handle even by experienced and fully equipped exterminators.

Answers to these questions will help you get a better understanding of how the candidate operates and see whether they will indeed be able to handle your case. After all you want somebody who will deliver the best services. These people will go inside you house and you need to be sure of who you choose.

Do your homework and it will save you a lot of time, money and frustration. Learn more about choosing a Bed Bugs Exterminator. And when you're ready, find pre-screened local Bed Bugs Exterminators for free.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RC_Symonds

Exterminating Spiders - How to Get Rid of Their Hiding Spots

2010-02-10T22:48:00.000-08:00

If you ever had to deal with spiders then you probably remember that even after a good clean up around your house you can still expect some of them to reappear. This usually happens due to the fact that spiders tend to have their own secret hiding spots where they wait patiently for their prey. There are different ways to exterminate spiders but if you really want to completely get rid of them you will also need to find out how to get rid of their hiding spots.

People often come up with original ideas on spider control but they never think about eliminating the cause of their appearance. Spider webs can be found in places where people don't have time to clean up regularly or don't live there anymore. However, if you see spiders in your house but you do live there and always keep it clean then you are probably experiencing a sort of spider infestation. This might intensify during the winter when they search for warmer places to spend the cold season.

We came to the conclusion that one of the best ways to eliminate spiders and completely keep them away is to get rid of their hiding spots regularly. This can be done by doing an attentive inspection of your house and checking all the possible spider hideouts. They usually seek wood products to hide and build their webs. They can also hide in your clothing and almost any other items in your house. Be careful and check them all. We can also recommend you to keep sticky traps in places like closets and basements.

Use an ordinary sweeper in order to get rid of the webs in their hiding spots. If you have the necessary free time you can carefully do it and it is going to keep them away in the long run. There are many sources from which you can learn how to get rid of spiders On our spider pest control blog we teach people the best spider extermination methods for free. We think that everyone has the right to know how it is done.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hasan_Trubad

What Can You Do to Kill Off Bed Bugs?

2010-01-25T16:40:00.000-08:00

If you have recently discovered that you have a bed bug problem, you are more than likely considering just tossing out your mattress if you can. One part of you wants to do that, but the other part realizes that they aren't that cheap to replace. So what can you use to save your mattress and kill off the bed bugs for good? Here's what I have used and many other people use to really kill off these nasty insects.

Chances are by the time you have discovered these bugs, you will have a pretty large infestation as these insects are pretty good about hiding away until they grow into a large number of bugs.

In order to really get rid of them, you need to make sure you are targeting your efforts towards the main source of the bugs. These are usually going to be in locations that you can't see visibly without moving the mattress around. Check underneath the mattress and on the sides you don't always see. Like I mentioned earlier, these bugs are great at hiding and only coming out when it's time to feed. (on you!)

Once you find the area's of infestation, you will want to spray them down with a safe insecticide. These bed bug sprays aren't always available at local stores, so you may have to find this type of spray online. Whatever you do, don't resort to regular insecticides as these are toxic and could harm your health.

Bed bug powder in the infected area's will ensure the area's stay bug free for a long time to come. These are some of the tricks an exterminator will use but charge quite a large amount of money for. Save yourself the money and do it yourself!

Want other methods on how to destroy bed bugs? Visit http://www.bedbugstreatment.info to find out how you can get rid of these nasty insects today!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ryan_MacDonald

Bugs Bug Me: Killing Flies

2010-01-25T16:38:00.000-08:00

Bugs Bug Me: Killing Flies

Killing Flies

2010-01-25T16:33:00.000-08:00

As individuals around the world seek an effective way to maintain persistent high levels of hygiene, there have been cases where they have failed to do so in spite of taking all the necessary steps and procedures to ensure that they maintain cleanliness and augmented levels of sanitation in an effective manner. One of the main reasons that this happens is due to the surroundings which are polluted and unhygienic. As a result, flies enter into one's home and attack any openly placed food material that they come in contact with. This is one of the characteristic features of many flies, particularly the fruit fly. Killing flies of such varieties can be a daunting task particularly if they have started breeding and multiplying in a consistent manner. At such times it would be essential to find the root cause of their multiplication rates and attack the very heart of their breeding source.

There have been a number of strategies which have been involved in the killing flies process being adopted by numerous people from around the world. Most of these strategies fail to be able to live up to its level of expectations due to the fact that most of them lack in some feature or another. There have been a number of tools and traps also introduced into the market to help individuals capture fruit flies. While these are quite effective as a means of getting rid of the menace, on the other hand they can become a pain to assemble and set up. For individuals that seek a faster and more effective killing flies method, they can seek the aid of professionally managed services such as exterminators and pest control service providers.

Max has been writing articles for nearly 3 years. Head over to his latest website Kill Fruit Flies and learn how to get rid of the fruit fly!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Max_Oso

Mice In Spaaaace!

2009-11-25T20:18:00.000-08:00

Atlantis leaves station as NASA eyes shuttles' end

By Irene Klotz
CAPE CANAVERAL, Florida (Reuters) - Space shuttle Atlantis left the International Space Station on Wednesday after a seven-day stay to deliver gear to keep the outpost operating after the shuttle program is retired next year.

Space station flight engineer Nicole Stott joined the six Atlantis astronauts for the return trip home. She is expected to be the last station crewmember to catch a ride on the shuttle. Atlantis is due back at the Kennedy Space Center in Florida on Friday.

"Thank you for a great mission," Jeff Williams, commander of the station, radioed to Stott as the shuttle prepared to leave at 4:53 a.m. EST (0953 GMT). "Bon voyage."

The United States is retiring its three-ship shuttle fleet in 2010 after five more missions to complete construction and outfitting of the $100 billion space station. The station, a project of 16 nations, then will be serviced by Russian, European and Japanese cargo ships, though none can transport the heavy pumps, tanks and gyroscopes carried by the shuttle.

Astronauts will fly exclusively on Russian Soyuz capsules at a cost of about $50 million a seat.

The United States has been developing a replacement for the space shuttles, but it is not expected to unveil it until 2015 at the earliest. An advisory panel tapped by the Obama administration to assess NASA's human space programs determined the new spaceship won't be ready until 2017.

In addition to flying to the station, which currently is funded only through 2015, the new ships are being designed to fly astronauts to the moon and other destinations in the solar system. The program, however, is under review.

Stott's departure comes six days before three more station crewmembers are due to return to Earth, leaving the complex with a two-man crew for the first time since 2006. Replacements are due to arrive December 23. The station won't reach a full, six-member crew again until March.

During Atlantis' mission, astronauts conducted three spacewalks to install antennas, science experiments, cargo mounts and other tasks. They are returning with the station's broken urine-recycling system, which purifies wastewater into potable water.

Also returning to Earth are six mice that have been aboard the station since late August for science experiments. Three of the mice died while in space, though scientists are not sure why.

NASA's next trip to the outpost is expected in February when shuttle Endeavour delivers the station's final connecting hub and a six-sided cupola that will give the outpost a 360-degree viewing port.

(Editing by Paul Simao)

Bed Bug Mattress Encasement Covers

2009-11-23T23:42:00.000-08:00

Bed Bug Mattress Encasement Covers
By Mike L. Evans

Bed Bug Mattress Encasement Covers are vital to protecting your bed from bedbugs. If you have ever had them, you need to purchase mattress covers for bed bugs if you own an old mattress or even if you buy a new mattress. This is confusing for some people, so let me try to explain why this is the case.

When bedbugs infest a home, they live in the walls, the floors, under carpets, and a whole variety of other places. Due to the nature of bedbug behavior, bed bug treatments are often not successful the first time. You need to understand that these bugs will continue to infest your home until you can fully exterminate your home.

If you live in a dorm room or apartment or any shared living condition, you should realize that your chances of eliminating them forever are diminished greatly. Shared wall conditions present some of the most challenging scenarios for pest control companies. The bedbugs can easily move from one room to another room, so unless you treat an entire building for bedbugs, you are likely going to have to deal with them for sometime. If you do not purchase a new mattress encasement for bugs, a new mattress will be infested just as easily as an old mattress.

Do not waste your money on an new mattress if you are dealing with bed bugs. Make sure you eliminate the problem first, and then you can buy the new mattress. As I already stated, make sure you purchase a mattress encasement even with a new mattress so that your new mattress is not infested. You want to get help for your embarrassing problem so you do not have to deal with them anymore.

You cannot possibly learn everything you need to know about bedbugs from reading this one article about bed bug mattress encasement covers. I encourage you to check out other popular sites on the internet about bedbugs to get all of the information you need to make an informed decision and get rid of the bedbugs forever.

Bedbug Mattress Encasement is a great resource that goes into much more detail about how to get rid of bedbugs. With bed bugs, how to get rid of them is not going to be an easy task. With proper methods, it is possible to get rid of bed bugs forever!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_L._Evans

Bed Bug Stats

2009-11-23T22:47:00.000-08:00

Bedbug treatments by Orkin Pest Control in Canadian cities (2005 & 2006)
The following statistics are just a sampling of a pest control company's treatments in Canadian dwellings, including houses, apartments, dormitories and hotels. The company, Orkin Pest Control, is just one of many large pest control agencies. Time periods range for each region. The 2006 stats are for January to October, unless otherwise stated.

TORONTO NORTH
2006: 200 treatments thus far for 2006 or about 10% of total service for branch
Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

2005: 150 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Hotels
Motels

VANCOUVER/BURNABY
2006: 50 treatments thus far (huge hotel/motel business) or 25% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Hospitals
Dormitories

Note: This branch performs so many bedbugs treatments that they are hiring 2 more technicians who will do nothing but handle bedbugs treatments.

2005: 35 treatments Facilities treated:
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

STONEY CREEK
2006: 200 treatments thus far or about 5% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

2005: 100 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

SASKATCHEWAN
2006: 125 treatments thus far or 10% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

2005: 75 treatments Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Dormitories

OTTAWA
2006: 500 treatments thus far or 30% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories
Low income housing (surge in the number of infestations in these residences)

2005: 200 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes

NOVA SCOTIA
2006: 300 treatments thus far or 10% of total service for branchFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Government buildings
Group homes
Dormitories

2005: 250 treatmentsFacilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Low income housing (surge in the number of infestations in these residences)

CALGARY
2006: 200 treatments thus far or 20% of total service for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories

2005: 200 (the past 5 years have been steadily busy) Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Group homes
Dormitories

VANCOUVER ISLAND
2006: 250 treatments thus far or about 5% of total services for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Correctional facilities
Government buildings
Military bases
Group homes
Dormitories
Cruise ships
Airplanes

2005: 200 treatments total Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels
Correctional facilities
Government buildings
Military bases
Group homes
Dormitories
Cruise ships
Airplanes

VALLEY/MAPLE RIDGE
2006: 100 treatments thus far or about 10% of total services for branch Facilities treated:
Single-family residences
Apartments
Condominiums
Hotels
Motels

2005: 85 treatments Facilities treated:
Apartments
Hotels
Motels

Rentokil turnaround on track but shares fall

2009-11-23T22:31:00.000-08:00

LONDON, Nov 6 (Reuters) - British pest control to parcel delivery firm Rentokil Initial (RTO.L) said its five-year turnaround plan was gathering pace as it posted an 82 percent increase in third-quarter profit and forecast more progress in the balance of 2009.

However, shares in the firm, whose businesses also include cleaning and the hiring out of uniforms and tropical plants, fell 7 percent as investors booked profits on concerns over the outlook for 2010.

The stock was down 7.9 pence at 104.1 pence at 1115 GMT, valuing the business at 2 billion pounds ($3.30 billion).

Before Friday's update, Rentokil shares had more than doubled over the last year, outperforming the DJ Stoxx European industrial goods and services sector index .SXNP by 65 percent.

"It would be tempting to believe that the lower (Q3) losses in parcels (Rentokil's City Link business) mark a change of fortunes for Rentokil and the share price is certainly reflecting this.

However, the outlook for the group is still uncertain and we retain our sell stance," said Seymour Pierce analyst Kevin Lapwood.

"The shares are trading on over 20 times our FY 2009 estimates, which now looks too high for a late cycle services company."

Rentokil brought in Alan Brown and John McAdam -- who together led a turnaround at British chemicals group ICI -- as CEO and chairman last year.

The pair are trying to reverse years of underperformance and botched acquisitions by improving customer service, operational efficiency and cutting costs.

"We anticipate a further quarter of good delivery in Q4 despite few signs of economic recovery in our major markets," said Brown.

He told reporters he would detail a new growth strategy when Rentokil publishes 2009 results in February.

The focus will on targeting sustainable organic growth in the group's pests and washrooms divisions.

"They are our biggest businesses, they account for the great majority of our 1,000 branches across the world, so we can get most leverage by focusing on pests and washrooms," said the CEO, who did not rule out small bolt-on acquisitions.

The support services company, which issued a string of profit warnings in 2007 and 2008, said its profit before tax and one-off items was 49.6 million pounds in the three months to Sept. 30.

This was ahead of analysts' consensus forecast of about 46 million pounds and compares with 16.6 million pounds in the same period last year.

The outcome was driven by good progress in fixing the firm's problem businesses, particularly City Link, and no provisions for bad debt in the period versus 6 million pounds in the same period last year.

Revenue fell 3.2 percent at constant currencies to 622.6 million pounds, the same percentage fall as the second quarter, but was up 3.6 percent at actual exchange rates. Some 70 percent of Rentokil's earnings stream is in euros.

City Link made a loss of 1.3 million pounds in the third quarter and Brown forecast it would make a full year operating loss of 7 million pounds, better than previous guidance of a loss of 12 million pounds. In 2008 it made a loss of 43 million pounds.

The CEO estimated City Link would get a 1 million to 2 million pounds profit boost from the recent strike at Royal Mail and forecast the business would be profitable in the fourth quarter and throughout 2010.