My Vietnam

Hoi An - The International Choir Competition is coming back

2013-06-16T03:54:00.000+09:00

This June in Hoi An, the 3rd Vietnam International Choir Competition is going to take place in two consecutive days 20 and 21, with the attendance of more than 500 artists from 11 troupes coming from Indonesia, Australia, South Korea, Malaysia, Taiwan and indispensably, Vietnam.

Contributing the most enthusiastically in this year contest are seven Indonesian troupes, which send 200 instrumentalists, followed by the Australia’s Voice Weavers, South Korea’s Choir of Korean Choral Society and Taiwan’s Panan Choir all promise to bring the most stunning performance to get the top prize.

Taking part in the contest, Vietnam registered four troupes: Hue City’s Academy of Musis, the Catholic Church Choir of Hoi an, the cultures centres of Quang Nam Province, and the Hoi An troupe.

The opening ceremony of the contest is going to occur at the Agribank Resort at 8:30pm on June 20.

Besides, all the troupes would also corporate with each other to perform a street choir named International Melody in the old quarter on the night of June 21.

The International Choir Tournament is part of the 5th Quang Nam Heritage Journeys Festival in Hoi An, My Son Sanctuary, Tam Ky City and Cham Island from June 21 to 26, 2013.

Bưởi - Pomelo. Fruits of Viet Nam

2013-06-03T15:55:00.003+09:00

Pomelo (or Chinese grapefruit) is a member of the citrus family and is a native to Southeast Asia. The largest known citrus fruit, it appears like a big grapefruit but has a sweeter taste to it and is much less bitter. To eat the pomelo, a knife is needed to carve the green skin off, while the spongy part of the skin could be removed by hand. Once all the covering is taken off, the pulps holding a pleasantly refreshing liquid are revealed.

There are several tasty varieties of pomelo in Vietnam, often named after the location where it grows. In the North, there is the Doan Hung pomelo (which grows in Phu Tho Province), in the Central there is the Phuc Trach pomelo (from Ha Tinh Province), and in the South there is the Tan Trieu pomelo (Bien Hoa Province). Each variety has unique qualities. The Phuc Trach pomelo has a distinct sweet flavor of the glucose that is fresh to the taste known to quench the thirst and leave the body cool and the mind relaxed. Another variety, the Thanh Tra pomelo, is mildly sweet and somewhat acidic at the same time while the Buoi Duong (or sugar pomelo) is much sweeter.

Ausflug nach Ninh Bình

2013-05-26T20:13:00.001+09:00

Eigentlich versuche ich moeglichst Plaetze, die von Touristen ueberlaufen sind, zu meiden. Gestern habe ich aber eine Ausnahme gemacht. Weil es nicht so drueckend heiss war wie an den vorangegangen Tagen, beschlossen wir am Morgen spontan, einen kleinen Ausflug zu unternehmen. Da meine Maedels bisher nicht die Moeglichkeit hatten, viel zu reisen, moechte ich ihnen natuerlich einige der schoensten Orte ihrer Heimat zeigen. Und davon hat die Provinz Ninh Bình unmittelbar suedlich von Hanoi so einige zu bieten. In der Trockenen Halong Bucht (Vịnh Hạ Long trên cạn) kann man einige Bootsausfluege durch eine wundervolle, fast maerchenhafte Landschaft unternehmen.

Da ich selbst zum letzten Mal vor vielen Jahren als Kind in Tam Cốc war und den Ort schon lange einmal wiedersehen wollte, entschieden wir uns gegen das noch nicht so touristische Tràng An. Die dreistuendige Bootsfahrt auf dem Fluss Ngô Đồng beginnt in dem Dorf Ninh Hải nur wenige Kilometer von der Provinzhauptstadt entfernt. Sie fuehrt durch eine zauberhafte Landschaft aus Reisfeldern und steil aufragenden Karstfelsen, auf denen manchmal kleine Tempel und Schreine zu sehen sind bis zu den Drei Grotten (Tam Cốc), die man mit dem Boot durchfahren kann. Die groesste dieser Grotten ist die 127 Meter lange Hang Cả. Etwa einen Kilometer weiter kommt man durch die 60 Meter lange Hang Hai, wo jede Menge sehr seltsam geformter Stalaktiten von der Decke haengen. Unmittelbar dahinter folgt die 50 Meter lange Hang Ba, in der die Decke wesentlich niedriger ist als in den anderen beiden Grotten. In allen drei Hoehlen verstecken sich tagsueber Tausende von Fledermaeusen, die einen ganz schoenen Laerm veranstalten.

An manchen Tagen sollen dort mehrere Hundert Boote unterwegs sein. Wir waren zwar auch nicht allein auf dem Fluss, hatten aber zum Glueck einen eher ruhigen Tag erwischt. Zu fuenft brauchten wir zwei Boote, die von sehr netten einheimischen Frauen gerudert wurden. Da die beiden konsequent aufdringliche Getraenke- und Souvernirverkaeufer von uns fernhielten, habe ich zum Schluss die vorher vereinbarte Summe von 80.000 VNĐ (3 Euro) pro Boot auf 100.000 aufgerundet.

Viele Gruesse
Cathrin

Lũng Cú – Der noerdlichste Punkt Vietnams

2013-05-15T19:51:00.001+09:00

Schon lange habe ich meine Leser nicht mehr ins Bergland entfuehrt. Darum geht es heute bis ganz hoch in den Norden. Der noerdlichste Punkt Vietnams befindet sich in der Gemeinde Lũng Cú, die im Distrikt Đồng Văn in der Provinz Hà Giang etwa 40 Kilometer von der Distriktshauptstadt und 200 Kilometer von der Provinzhauptstadt entfernt an beiden Ufern der Flusses Nho Quế liegt. Die Gemeinde besteht aus neun Doerfern mit gut 3.000 Einwohnern, die fast alle den Nationalen Minderheiten der HMông, Lô Lô, Tày und Pu Péo angehoeren. Obwohl die Region zu den trockensten in Vietnam gehoert, leben die Menschen ueberwiegend von der Landwirtschaft. Ausser einigen traditionellen Handwerken wie der Weberei gibt es auch kaum Alternativen.

839 Stufen fuehren den Berg hinauf zum beruehmten Flaggenturm auf 1.700 Meter Hoehe, der auf drei Seiten von chinesischem Territorium umgeben ist. Dieser Flaggenturm hat eine lange Geschichte. Der erste Turm an diesem Platz, damals aus Holz, wurde bereits vor fast 1.0000 Jahren auf Initiative des Generals Lý Thường Kiệt errichtet. Zuletzt wurde Anfang 2010 der erst im Jahre 2002 gebaute Turm komplett abgerissen und durch einen neuen ersetzt, der zum Nationalfeiertag am 2. September 2010 eingeweiht wurde. Der achteckige Turm ist gut 33 Meter hoch und damit knapp zehn Meter hoeher als sein Vorgaenger. Auf acht Bronzetrommeln sind Szenen aus der Geschichte des Landes und aus der Kultur der hier lebenden Minderheiten abgebildet.

Im Inneren des Turmes fuehren 135 Treppenstufen nach oben. Von der Plattform bietet sich bei schoenem Wetter ein herrlicher Ausblick auf die Gemeinde Lũng Cú und bis weit nach China hinein. Die Nationalflagge ist 54 Quadratmeter gross und symbolisiert die 54 ethnischen Gruppen Vietnams. Da dort oben fast immer ein heftiger Wind weht, ist der Verschleiss an Flaggen enorm. Alle sieben bis zehn Tage muss sie ausgetauscht werden. Die zustaendige Einheit der Grenztruppen, die fuer die Sicherung eines 25 Kilometer langen Grenzabschnittes zustaendig ist, hat aber immer mehrere Dutzend Flaggen in Reserve.

Viele Gruesse
Cathrin

Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne

Thousand-year Champa citadel discovered in Quang Nam

2013-05-15T09:50:00.001+09:00

Vietnamese scientists have discovered a citadel of the ancient Kingdom of Champa located deep underground in the central province of Quang Nam.

After more than half a month of excavation on an area of 300 m2 in the village of Vien Thanh, in Duy Trung commune, Duy Xuyen district, archaeologists of the Southern Region Academy of Sciences and the Showa Women's University, Japan, discovered the vestige of an ancient citadel of the Champa Kingdom.

Mr. Dang Ngoc Kinh, head of the excavation team, says that in an excavated hole of 20 m long, 2 m wide and at a depth of about 50-60 cm, archaeologists discovered a piece of wall of an ancient citadel. The citadel wall was built by brick, 1.5 m to 1.6 m wide; between the bricks is clay.

According to initial measurement, scientists define that the surface of the citadel was made by clay. The surface structure is built with very high technics; the walls are intact.

Archaeologists also found a Kendi (a water jub with tap that is used in ceremony) and broken tiles and bricks.

They say that this is the citadel of the ancient Cham people; particularly it is the wall surrounding the capital Sinhapura of the Kingdom of Champa (now Tra Kieu). This ancient citadel was built in the 4th - 5th century.

Bảo tàng không gian văn hóa Mường – Das Museum fuer die Kultur der Mường

2013-05-02T19:19:00.001+09:00

Diese Woche ist eine sogenannte Feiertagswoche in Vietnam. Der 30. April (Tag der Befreiung) und der 1. Mai sind offiziell arbeitsfrei. Durch Urlaub und Arbeitszeitverlagerung haben viele Menschen die Moeglichkeit, die ganze Woche frei zu machen. Das betrifft vor allem alle Beamten und Angestellten in Staatsbetrieben. Auch die meisten Schulen bleiben in dieser Woche geschlossen. Das gibt uns die Gelegenheit, ganz entspannt ohne Stress und Hektik die naehere und weitere Umgebung unseres neuen Zuhauses in der Provinz Hòa Bình zu erkunden. Die Provinz ist vor allem gepraegt durch die Kultur des Volkes der Mường. Die Mường sind die drittgroesste Nationale Minderheit Vietnams. Sie stellen rund 65 Prozent der Einwohner von Hòa Bình.

In der Provinzhauptstadt befindet sich ein kleines privates Museum, das sich mit Geschichte und Kultur der Mường beschaeftigt. Die Gruendung dieses Museums geht auf eine Initiative des Malers Vũ Đức Hiếu aus Hanoi zurueck, der mit seinem umfangreichen Wissen ueber die Kultur und Gebraeuche der Muong auch als Hiếu Mường bezeichnet wird. Seine Idee fuer das Museum fand grossen Anklang. Nach einer zehnjaehrigen Planungsphase, die dem Sammeln der Ausstellungstuecke diente, und einem Jahr Bauzeit wurde es am 16. Dezember 2007 eroeffnet.

Auf dem zwei Hektar grossen Gelaende sind die vier der fuer die Mường-Gesellschaft typischen Stelzenhaeuser errichtet worden, im Lang-Haus wohnten die reichsten und maechtigsten Familien, im Âu-Haus die Mandarine. Im Tạo-Haus lebten die normalen Familien, waehrend die am wenigsten angesehenen Menschen wie Witwen und Waisen mit dem kleinen Nõ-Haus vorlieb nehmen mussten. Fuer die Mường-Kultur typische Gegenstaende sind auf dem Freigelaende (Reismoerser, Schoepfrader) und im Hauptgebaeude des Museums zu sehen. Neben typischen Gebrauchsgegenstaenden fuer Feldarbeit, Jagd und religioese Feste werden dort auch die traditionellen Handwerke der Mường (Weben, Sticken, Flechten) praesentiert.

Das Museum befindet sich in der Đường Tây Tiến auf einem kleinen Huegel etwas ausserhalb des Zentrums von Hòa Bình. Der Eintritt betraegt 50.000 VNĐ (1,80 Euro), fuer Schueler und Studenten 15.000 VNĐ (55 Cent). Fuer eine Fotoerlaubnis muss man 100.000 VNĐ (3,50) bezahlen. Geoeffnet ist taeglich ausser montags. Regelmaessig finden auf dem Gelaende kulturelle Veranstaltungen statt. Die Anreise von Hanoi nach Hòa Bình (ca. 70km) dauert knapp zwei Stunden.

Viele Gruesse
Cathrin

Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne

One Pillar Pagoda: One-of-a-Kind Piece of Architecture

2013-04-29T09:13:00.001+09:00

The One-Pillar Pagoda in Hanoi, Viet Nam, also called Dien Huu, means “long-lasting happiness and good luck.” It was built in the winter of 1049, when King Ly Thai Tong ruled the kingdom.

Based on the official records of Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu, or The Complete History of Great Viet, the pagoda came to existence and was named as such when the king once dreamed of seeing the Goddess of Mercy sitting on a lotus throne and talking to him. The king shared this dream to his mandarins wherein one thought it was a bad omen. A monk, Thien Tue, then advised King Ly Thai Tong to build a pagoda as well as a lotus-shaped tower exactly like the one in his dream. When the structure was made, the monks prayed around it, reciting the Buddhist scriptures for longevity of the king.

Originally, the temple was made of wood and stood on a single concrete pillar 1.25 meters in diameter. As in the dream, it was designed to replicate a lotus blossom. A lotus is a Buddhist symbol of purity since it blossoms in a muddy pond. Through time, the pagoda underwent a number of renovations. In the war of 1954, it was even destroyed by the French colonists. The government had it rebuilt the following year. At present, the pagoda is still made of wood, square-shaped, and has a curved roof. It is placed on a pillar 4 meters high (excluding the underground section) and 1.2 meters in diameters with two blocks connected together. The present structure is still made to resemble a lotus like in the king’s dream. Moreover, the wood beam system of the pagoda creates both solidity and beauty for the structure, a pleasing combination of imagination and unique architecture.

On April 28, 1962, the One-Pillar Pagoda was recognized as a historical relic because of its architectural and historical values. On May 4, 2006, it received an even higher and global recognition as it made its way to the Guinness Book of World Records as the “Pagoda with the most unique architecture in Vietnam.”

Thành cổ Sơn Tây – The ancient citadel of Sơn Tây

2013-04-28T21:11:00.001+09:00

The city of Tây Sơn is 40 kilometers north-west of the center of Hanoi, in the former province of Hà Tây, which belongs to the Greater Hanoi since 2008. Because of its strategic location on the Red River on the outskirts of the capital Sơn Tây was in his history in important military outpost, especially against the invasions from the north. Large parts of the well-preserved citadel was built in 1822 in the third year of the reign of the Nguyễn emperor Minh Mang, on the grounds of the two villages Thuần Nghệ and May Trai.

The square fort with a length of about 450 meters is now in the heart of the city about two miles from the Red River. She was completely surrounded by a five meter wall with loopholes and a three-meter deep and 20 meter wide moat. On each side was a gate guarded by cannons, which was reached via a stone bridge, the Cửa Hậu was located on the north, the Cửa Tiền in the south, the Cửa Hữu in the the west and the Cửa Tả in the east. The north gate and the adjacent wall sections have been restored some time ago. The West and the South Gate have also been preserved, while the gate in the east is destroyed. The entrance to the fortress is possible only through the North or the South Gate.

Inside the area is the 18-meter-high flag tower, which has also been renovated recently and a palace that served alternately as the administrative headquarters, warehouse and troop accommodation. The citadel was in the 70s and 80s of the 19th Century a center of resistance against the French colonial army, but was conquered by the French on the 16th December 1883 after more than one year of resistance. The Governor-General of French Indochina let put it on the list of historical monuments of Tonkin in 1924. Since 1994, the citadel of Sơn Tây belongs to the National Heritage of Vietnam.

A visit to Sơn Tây can connect very well with a journey into the past to the community of Đường Lâm which is quite close to the town.

Best regards
Cathrin

Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne

Eine Reise durch Vietnam – Teil II

2013-04-23T22:04:00.001+09:00

Hue (Abb. 7). Hier treffen wir unseren Freund Hua, der gerade wieder mit einer Ärztegruppe in Hue ist und den ganzen Tag über operiert. Er nimmt uns mit zu dem Haus seiner Ahnen. Die Ahnenverehrung spielt eine riesige Rolle in Vietnam. Reiche Familien haben ein eigenes Haus dafür, in denen sich einige Male im Jahr die ganze Familie trifft, um die Vorfahren zu ehren. Unser Freund Hua hat ein ganzes Haus nur für die Ahnen (Abb. 8). Im Innern gibt es nichts außer Altären und Stammbäumen, mit vielen Blumen und Obst … für die Ahnen. Die sollen es ja gut haben. Auch die kleinste Hütte hat einen beleuchteten und geschmückten Altar. Mit Hua waren wir in einem Waisenhaus, ein unvorstellbares Elend, das zu sehen, und es gibt keine Möglichkeiten der Adoption, weil es ja offiziell in diesem Land keine „Probleme“ geben darf. 160 Kinder von 1 Tag bis 18 Jahre. Die Babys liegen wie apathisch nebeneinander in Betten aus Metall, manche direkt auf dem Rost, manche wenigstens auf einer Bastmatte. Dann haben wir die Höhlen des Vietkong aus dem Vietnamkrieg besucht (Abb. 9 u. 91), teilweise bis zu 23 Meter unter der Erde, bloße Gänge und Ausbuchtungen aus Lehm, die Bevölkerung und Soldaten während des Vietnamkriegs als Unterschlupf dienten. Hunderttausende lebten hier jahrelang unter der Erde. Unvorstellbar, wie da jemand psychisch unbeschädigt herauskommen kann, selbst Geburtsstätten gab es in diesen unterirdischen Höhlen.

7 Hue Kaiserpalast (Abb. 7)

8 Hua Ahnenhaus (Abb. 8)

Abb. 9

Abb. 91

Hoi An (Abb. 92, 93, 94). Nach Hanoi und Hue sind wir in Hoi An angekommen, einem kleinen Touristenort mit einem langen Sandstrand, Hotel mit Swimmingpool, wie man das eben von Mallorca, Teneriffa oder Kalifornien kennt. Wir sind im Hoi An Beach Resort. Ein herrliches Hotel, ein herrlicher (Touristen-)ort. Welch ein Kontrast zu Hue oder Hanoi. Und tolle Lokale. Es gibt – ist das nun original oder dem europäischen Stil angepasst – sehr gutes vietnamesisches Essen. Und Italiener gibt es natürlich auch.

92 Hoi An (Abb. 92)

93 Markt in Hoi An (Abb. 93)

94 Motorrad in Hoi An (Abb. 94)

Wir haben auch zwei Schulen besucht. Den „Green Shoots international Kindergarten“ – www.greenshootseducation.org – einem privat geführten Kindergarten mit sicherlich sehr guter – aber nicht kostenloser – Betreuung. Dann schauen wir – unangemeldet – an einer Grundschule vorbei und werden auch zuvorkommend von der Direktorin empfangen. Eine englisch sprechende Lehrerin führt uns durch das Schulgelände. In einzelnen Klassenzimmern werden wir von den Grundschülern freudig und mit einem englischen Lied empfangen. Schön, dass die Mathematik international ist. Es ist also leicht den Schülerinnen und Schülern einige herausfordernde Aufgaben zu stellen.

Saigon bzw. Ho-Chi-Minh-City (Abb. 95, 96). Welch ein Leben in dieser Stadt. Ho-Chi-Minh-City bzw. Saigon. So irgendetwas um die 10 Millionen Einwohner. Schon an der Namenswahl erkennt man die Einstellung. Nur wenige sagen hier HCMC! Erstaunlicherweise ist die offizielle Flughafen-Abkürzung SGN. Der Verkehr in den Straßen läuft – nach europäischem Verständnis – nach undurchschaubaren Regeln ab. Irgendwie erlebt man hier die Schwarmintelligenz. Die wenigen großen Autos werden von den Tausenden von Motorradfahrern einfach mitgeleitet und der Schwarm reagiert sofort, wenn einzelne – große oder kleine – Fische quer zur Fahrbahn oder gar gegen die Fahrbahn schwimmen. Das geht alles nur, da die Geschwindigkeit des Schwarms so zwischen 10 und 20 km/h liegt. Und es verläuft alles sehr gleichmäßig. Staus gibt es praktisch nicht und Ampeln stören auch nur gelegentlich den gleichförmigen Fluss. Das ist schlichtweg faszinierend. Als Europäer fährt man hier kein Auto. Man sitzt nur im Taxi und wundert sich.

95 Saigon bei Nacht (Abb. 95)

96 Saigon Motorradparkplatz (Abb. 96)

Saigon ist völlig anders als Hanoi (Abb. 992). Der reiche Süden ernährt wohl auch den armen Norden. Doch wenn man hier eine erfolgreiche Firma besucht, etwa die unseres Freundes Khoa, der Brenneranlagen für Industrieanlagen herstellt, dann wundert man sich schon, in welchen Häusern und Hinterhöfen hier organisiert und produziert wird. Klimaanlagen und Internet sind hier natürlich überall. Aber ansonsten ist alles sehr klein und überschaubar. Wie bei diesem Verkehr Kundenbesuche – im weißen Hemd und langer Hose – Mega-Stadt möglich sind, bleibt mir rätselhaft. Aber natürlich gibt es hier auch die Yuppie-Szene, der aufstrebenden jungen Industriellen. Da trifft man sich dann zur Verlobungsfeier im 60. Stock im höchsten Gebäude der Stadt. Das Verhältnis von Gästen und Betreuungspersonal ist bei solchen Events 1:1. Das Buffet bietet neben asiatischer Küche immer auch italienisch und französisch. Bei den Weinen sowieso. Die werden dann mit den sich Verlobenden „ex“ getrunken. Der Abend endet(e) dann für das Verlobungspaar schlafend auf dem Rücksitz des Taxis. Die trinkfesten Gäste – also wir auch – gehen dann um 12 Uhr noch in die Karaoke-Bar. „We are the Champions“.

992 Essen in Saigon (Abb. 992)

Siam Reap bzw. Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat, Weltkulturerbe (Abb. 98, 99, 991). Beeindruckend! Aber es ist heiß hier. Sehr heiß. Ein Ausflug zu einem „Floating Village“ ist ernüchternd (Abb. 97). Tausende von Menschen leben hier auf Flößen in Holzhäusern. Jahrelang. Ein Leben lang. Schwer vorstellbar für uns vom reichen Westen.

98 Angkor Wat (Abb. 98)

99 Angkor Wat 2 (Abb. 99)

991 Angkor Wat 3 (Abb. 991)

97 Siam Reap Floating Village (Abb. 97)

Phu Quoc. Die vietnamesischen Ferieninsel Phu Quoc ist eine halbe Flugstunde von Saigon entfernt. Palmen, blaues Meer, weiße Strände, aber alles nur im Umkreis von 50 Metern von den Hotels (Abb. 992). Im Schatten dieser Hotels gibt es viele typisch kleine vietnamesische Läden und Lokale. Und viel Schmutz und Unrat. Es bleibt also auch hier interessant. Und es bleibt auch noch viel zu tun. Sicherlich auch für westliche Investoren.

992 Strand von Phu Quoc (Abb. 992)

Es war eine lehr- und erfahrungsreiche Reise in ein interessantes Land in einem anderen Kulturkreis. Reiseroute und Zeitplan haben sehr gut gepasst.

Hans-Georg Weigand, April 2013

Eine Reise durch Vietnam

2013-04-16T18:32:00.001+09:00

Das stand doch schon lange einmal an. Mindestens 20 Jahre. Mindestens so lange kennen wir Hua, Dr. Hua Ton-That, den vietnamesischen Arzt, der in den 1970er Jahren nach Deutschland kam, zunächst in Paris lebte und dann an Kliniken in Freiburg und Würzburg arbeitete. Seit einigen Jahren organisiert er Reisen von internationalen Ärztegruppen nach Vietnam, die dann dort vietnamesische Kinder mit Missbildungen operieren. Wir, das sind Gabi Weigand und ich, sowie Angelika Blenk, Gabis Schwester und deren Ehemann Eberhard Blenk. Angelika arbeitet bei Caritas und hat Hua vor über 30 Jahren bei der Betreuung vietnamesischer Flüchtlinge – den sog. „Boat-People“ – kennengelernt. Daraus hat sich mittlerweile eine Freundschaft entwickelt. Es stand also seit Jahren an, das Land Huas einmal etwas genauer kennenzulernen.

Seit dem Jahr 2000 arbeite ich am Institut für Mathematik und Informatik an der Universität Würzburg. Einer meiner Kollegen ist der Informatiker Prof. Phuoc Tran-Gia, der ebenfalls aus Vietnam stammt. Seine Erzählungen und die seiner Frau Wally waren für uns ein weiterer Anreiz, dieses Land kennenzulernen.

Unsere Reiseroute: Wir sind am 14. März 2013 in Frankfurt losgeflogen. Nach einer kurzen Zwischenlandung in Saigon haben wir unsere Reise in Hanoi begonnen. Besuch der Halong-Bucht, dann weiter – mit dem Flugzeug – nach Hue (am 19.03.) und Hoi An (22.03.). Von dort nach Saigon (25.03). Kurzer zweitägiger Abstecher nach Kambodscha und Siam Reap und Besichtigung der Tempelanlagen von Angkor Wat (Weltkulturerbe). Dann zurück nach Saigon. 3 Tage Badeurlaub auf Phuo Quoc. Rückflug nach Frankfurt am 04. April 2013.

Unsere Eindrücke: Ja, in der Tat, hier geht es vom Kommunismus zum Konsumismus über. Von DER Partei merkt man im Alltag nichts, außer dass – beim Festnetz – einige Internetseiten gesperrt sind, auch die Main-Post (DIE Zeitung Frankens), das sehe ich als Qualitätsmerkmal. Ansonsten ist es heiß hier, sehr heiß. 30 Grad im Schatten und mehr. In Deutschland soll es kalt sein. Unvorstellbar hier.

Hanoi. Die Gegensätze sind enorm hier in Hanoi. Neben den unüberschaubaren Geschäften in den Straßen der Altstadt – in denen wir uns schwer tun, etwas zu Essen zu kaufen – gibt es die feinsten Läden: Gucci, Armani, Louis Vuitton (Abb.1, Abb. 2). In den Straßen sind nicht tausende, sondern hunderttausende von Mopeds und Motorrollern (Abb. 3). Jede Straßenüberquerung ist ein Abenteuer, denn halten tut keiner, auch nicht beim Zebrastreifen. Und Ampeln gibt es nur ganz selten. Es ist schön, einmal aus dem Verkehr Hanois herauszukommen. Zwei Tage auf einem Schiff in der Halong Bay sind ein Erlebnis (Abb. 4 u. Abb. 5). Und schließlich haben wir ihn gesehen, den für Mathematiker und Informatiker berühmten Turm von Hanoi (Abb. 6).

Hue (Abb. 7). Hier treffen wir unseren Freund Hua, der gerade wieder mit einer Ärztegruppe in Hue ist und den ganzen Tag über operiert. Er nimmt uns mit zu dem Haus seiner Ahnen. Die Ahnenverehrung spielt eine riesige Rolle in Vietnam. Reiche Familien haben ein eigenes Hausdafür, in denen sich einige Male im Jahr die ganze Familie trifft, um die Vorfahren zu ehren. Unser Freund Hua hat ein ganzes Haus nur für die Ahnen (Abb. 8). Im Innern gibt es nichts außer Altären und Stammbäumen, mit vielen Blumen und Obst … für die Ahnen. Die sollen es ja gut haben. Auch die kleinste Hütte hat einen beleuchteten und geschmückten Altar. Mit Hua waren wir in einem Waisenhaus, ein unvorstellbares Elend, das zu sehen, und es gibt keine Möglichkeiten der Adoption, weil es ja offiziell in diesem Land keine „Probleme“ geben darf. 160 Kinder von 1 Tag bis 18 Jahre. Die Babys liegen wie apathisch nebeneinander in Betten aus Metall, manche direkt auf dem Rost, manche wenigstens auf einer Bastmatte. Dann haben wir die Höhlen des Vietkong aus dem Vietnamkrieg besucht (Abb. 9 u. 91), teilweise bis zu 23 Meter unter der Erde, bloße Gänge und Ausbuchtungen aus Lehm, die Bevölkerung und Soldaten während des Vietnamkriegs als Unterschlupf dienten. Hunderttausende lebten hier jahrelang unter der Erde. Unvorstellbar, wie da jemand psychisch unbeschädigt herauskommen kann, selbst Geburtsstätten gab es in diesen unterirdischen Höhlen.

Siam Reap bzw. Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat, Weltkulturerbe (Abb. 98, 99, 991). Beeindruckend! Aber es ist heiß hier. Sehr heiß. Ein Ausflug zu einem „Floating Village“ ist ernüchternd (Abb. 97). Tausende von Menschen leben hier auf Flößenin Holzhäusern. Jahrelang. Ein Leben lang. Schwer vorstellbar für uns vom reichen Westen.

Phu Quoc. Die vietnamesischen Ferieninsel Phu Quoc ist eine halbe Flugstunde von Saigon entfernt. Palmen, blaues Meer, weiße Strände, aber alles nur im Umkreis von 50 Metern von den Hotels (Abb. 992). Im Schatten dieser Hotels gibt es viele typisch kleine vietnamesische Läden und Lokale. Und viel Schmutz und Unrat. Es bleibt also auch hier interessant. Und es bleibt auch noch viel zu tun. Sicherlich auch für westliche Investoren.

Es war eine lehr- und erfahrungsreiche Reise in ein interessantes Land in einem anderen Kulturkreis. Reiseroute und Zeitplan haben sehr gut gepasst.

Hans-Georg Weigand, April 2013

In Hanoi (Abb. 1)

2 Hans-Georg, Nam, Gabi, Lin, Angelika, Eberhard in Hanoi (Abb. 2)

Verkehr in Hanoi (Abb. 3)

4 Ha Long Bay (Abb. 4)

5 Ha Long Bay (Abb. 5)

6 Turm von Hanoi (Abb. 6)

7 Hue Kaiserpalast (Abb. 7)

8 Hua Ahnenhaus (Abb. 8)

Abb. 9

Abb. 91

92 Hoi An (Abb. 92)

93 Markt in Hoi An (Abb. 93)

94 Motorrad in Hoi An (Abb. 94)

95 Saigon bei Nacht (Abb. 95)

96 Saigon Motorradparkplatz (Abb. 96)

97 Siam Reap Floating Village (Abb. 97)

99 Angkor Wat 2 (Abb. 99)

991 Angkor Wat 3 (Abb. 991)

992 Essen in Saigon (Abb. 992)

992 Strand von Phu Quoc (Abb. 992)

Cu lao Gieng: Beauty and Tales Unfold

2013-04-11T10:18:00.001+09:00

In the Mekong Delta sits an island with divine beauty. It holds so much historical memories dating hundreds of years back. Many of these old tales continue to linger within the walls of numerous churches, monasteries and pagodas that endlessly grace the island.

Cu lao Gieng (Gieng Island) is a triangular island located in the middle of the Tien River on the border of Dong Thap Province. It was called Dinh Chau in one of the country’s most famous chorography records, Gia Dinh thanh thong chi (A Chorography of Gia Dinh City –now the southern region of Vietnam). According to the record’s author, Trinh Hoai Duc, it was called such when a famous historian of the Nguyen Dynasty likened it to Doanh Chau, (one of three islands often mentioned in East Asian legends) because of its clean atmosphere, rich soil and abundant produce.

Churches and Monasteries

Anyone visiting Cu lao Gieng will never fail to notice its quiet, profound ambience. Walking around and admiring the many 19th century pagodas and churches exudes a feeling of being in a sacred territory. A complex of Roman Catholic structures on the island is particularly surprising. The most striking of which is Cu lao Gieng Church. Records say that it was built by a French priest named Gazignol between 1879 and 1889 using construction materials shipped from France. However, other records insist that construction of the church had already begun 1850. If such is proven true, Cu lao Gieng Church would be the oldest church in southern region, instead of the famous Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica in Ho Chi Minh City. Over a century went by but the cathedral still stands strong and maintaining its solemn appeal.

Next to it is a monastery of the Franciscans, an order of Roman Catholic Church. The building was utilized as the friary for the religious group’s members in Mekong Delta provinces and Cambodia between 1872 and 1946. During the war in 1945, it was destroyed and abandoned. At present, it stands as a quiet, unoccupied structure. Once in a while, it is used as a venue for meetings of local Franciscans.

In the island visitors will also find the 138-year-old monastery of Providence Sisters, which was once a place where sisters and priests spent endless days and nights caring for the elderly, children and patients with incurable diseases. Like the latter, long-standing neglect reduced it to an old, forgotten relic. Other famous Catholic structures on the island are the century-old Rach Sau Church and the St. Francis Church.

Many say that the reason why many Catholic Churches were built on the island is because it is where a large number of Catholics, including French priests, who took refuge here as they tried to escape from the Nguyen Dynasty’s suppression of the religion during the 18th century. Cu lao Gieng is now considered one of the largest and oldest parishes in the Mekong Delta.

Pagodas and Tombs

Beyond the churches, visitors will come across several beautiful pagodas around the island. The Phuoc Minh Pagoda is among the most admired. It has a nine-level tower and a three-door gate and are built with the same traditional styles found in northern pagodas.

The “tomb” of Ba quan Thuong Dang (three high-ranking officials) is one of the most visited sites on the island. It is a complex of three graves that have the shapes of squid, fish and tortoise. According to historical records, Emperor Nguyen Anh (1762-1820) ordered the graves to be built as a memorial for famous general Nguyen Van Thu and his two younger brothers, who were all killed in a battle in 1801. Their bodies, however, were lost in the battle and were not actually buried in the tombs. Instead, the king’s people brought wax dummies to the island and buried them there.

Today, Cu Lao Gieng is mainly a retreat for retired nuns. Visitors who come by will be surprised to witness impressive relics in the middle of nowhere. And for one to hear of the beautiful stories behind these structures and the island itself, will surely agree that this is one place to discover.

Lâm Sơn

2013-04-10T22:18:00.001+09:00

Die Gemeinde Lâm Sơn im Distrikt Lương Sơn der Provinz Hòa Bình besteht aus neun Doerfern, in denen etwa 5.000 Menschen leben. Ueberwiegend handelt es sich dabei um Angehoerige des Volkes der Mường, sehr angenehme und ruhige, aber auch sehr neugierige Nachbarn. Ganz in der Naehe unseres Hauses fliesst der kleine Fluss Sông Bùi (oder auch Sông Tích genannt). Er ist nur gut 90 Kilometer lang und muendet in den Sông Đáy, der ein wichtiger Nebenfluss des Roten Flusses ist.

Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne

Nha Trang: More Than a Beach

2013-04-09T10:16:00.001+09:00

Most tourists go to Nha Trang, the south central province of Khanh Hoa, for its beautiful beaches. But more than its sand, sea and sun, Nha Trang has so much more to offer to its visitors that makes it a worthwhile tourist destination.

The giant Po Nagar Temples Complex is one destination in Nha Trang tourists should go to aside from its world-famous beaches. Located just a mere 4 kilometers from the municipal center, it is known as the city's “spiritual heart,” a group of temples which is one of Nha Trang's most important historical sites. It was built in the 8th century by the Cham people in their Cham kingdom and recognized as a Vietnamese national relic in 1979.

According to history, when the Vietnamese people moved south to Nha Trang in the 17th century, they disocvered that Lady Po Nagar, the object of worship of the Cham people, was very similar to their own Mother Goddess. The temples then became a place of worship for both dieties, as well as the unity of different ethnic groups.

The meditation halls of the complex is composed of two lines of five octagonal pillars in the second terrace of the structure. Here, offerings are prepared and rites are performed before the main ritul. Outside, there are 12 smaller pillars which are actually the remains of the main gate leading to the main tower. A steep staircase leads to the upper terrace where the main towers are, standing like watchdogs to the city in its elevated state. There were originally five towers, but one was destroyed, leaving only four. Each tower has a pyramid-shaped interior dediacted to a particular diety. The tallest tower is about 25 meters high in which visitors can enjoy and appreciate nature's beauty of mountains, sky, rivers, sea, and even fishing villages. But what makes the towers even more special is that they were made from the Cham building techniques, which meant that they were built without cement, just stacked on top of the other in a very precise manner. The Cham people used high-quality bricks that were rubbed smooth during construction.

According to the scholar Tran Ky Phuong, the Po Nagar temples were one of the two major sanctuaries of the Champa courts, which also reflected the phenomena of the Champa “cosmological dualist cult.” His study, entitled “Historic Champa States in Vietnam: Champa Origins, Reconfirmed Nomenclatures, and Preservation of Sites” discussed about the typical architectural style of the temples. Phuong's research discovered that Champa temple-towers were built according to a specific pattern: the body of the tower is square; the pyramid-shaped roof has three levels with a sandstone-ridge; and the tower doors open to the east and west.

Head of the provincial Historical Sites Centre Ngo My Chau stated that the Po Nagar Temples Complex welcomed almost 700,000 visitors in 2011 and almost 570,000 in the initial nine months of this year. Today, visitors are treated to an authentic Champa dance and music when the visit the temple, a said to be hypnotic dance called Apsara which is accompanied by fans and ceramic pots when performed. Tourists can also observe the traditional process of brocade weaving and pottery making.

During the yearly celebration of the goddess Yan Po Nagar, people from all over Southern Central Vietnam converge to honor the diety. This includes both the ethnic Chan and Kinh minority people. The festival is a four-day celebration starting from the 20th day of the third month based on the lunar calendar. People celebrate by traditional singing, dancing and worshipping ceremonies. About 70 delegations from all over the region join in the festival annually, with gifts of food, fruits and flowers to the goddess. These offerings run for three sraight days during the festival.

The lantern ceremony is the most awaited part of the whole festival, conducted on the evening of the first day of the festivities. Dressed in traditional costumes and carrying two lanterns each, participants embark on a mass procession parade which starts at the temple down to the banks of the Cai River. There, they place the lanterns on the water, estimated to be about 7,000 each time, creating a beautiful sight of moving lights all across the river.

To complete the festive yet holy celebrations, candles are then offered to pray and honor for the spirits of the soldiers who gave up their lives for their country and the fishermen who lost their lives at the sea.

Vietnam's Temple of Literature Receives UNESCO Memory of the World Certificate

2013-04-07T09:07:00.001+09:00

On February 25, a special ceremony was held at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi in order to grant the site special honors from UNESCO. The special national relic certificate and the Global “Memory of the World” certificate were given for its 82 doctoral laureate steles at the Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam (Temple of Literature – Royal College).

The 82 stone steles preserved at the temple were erected between 1484 and 1780 and holds the names of the laureates of royal examinations held between 1442 and 1779 under the Le and Mac Dynasties. The steles, designed as tortoise-mounted tablets, are clear accounts of around 300 years’ history of training and recruiting talented individuals to serve the national construction and defense of the country. The tortoise is traditionally considered a symbol of longevity and everlastingness in Vietnamese culture. The said inscriptions are written in Chinese.

The stelae were also the focus of a conservation workshop held earlier the same day by the Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam Centre for Cultural and Scientific Activities. Deputy Prime Minister Nguyen Thien Nhan stressed this is a great honor and responsibility for citizens of the capital city and the whole country towards preserving the heritage for future generations. The stelae are showing signs of deterioration brought on both by exposure to the elements and by people. The structure housing the stelae is becoming dilapidated. On the other hand, the stelae themselves are equally exposed from frequent touching and rubbing, and oftentimes, being sat upon on. A long tradition of students is the rubbing of the heads of the tortoises for luck during exam time.

The held ceremony was simple and solemn, and was participated by UNESCO's Vietnam representatives, along with central and municipal authorities. A traditional Vietnamese ritual was observed in which a person returns home to pay thanks to their ancestors after achieving academic honors. Among the highlights of the gathering was the screening of a documentary film on the history of the Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam and the playing of traditional music.

The Temple of Literature was built in 1070 in dedication to Confucius and other scholars. It remained a symbol for Vietnam’s culture and intelligence for nearly 1,000 years. At present, over a thousand tourists visit the temple each day, with the steles being one of the temple's biggest tourist draws.

Historic house becomes tourist site

2013-03-31T10:56:00.001+09:00

In recent years, the house owned by Huynh Thuy near Tien River in Sa Dec in Dong Thap Province has become a popular destination for both domestic and foreign tourists.

The house is famous for its unique architecture which is the harmonious combination of Vietnamese, French and Chinese styles. It is the place that witnessed the romantic love between Marguerite Duras, a well-known French writer, and Huynh Thuy Le, the son of the Huynh Family who is the house’s owner.

When we arrived at the house, we meet Australian tourists who were listening to the tourist guide’s architectural value and the love between the house’s owner and writer Marguerite Duras. The bustling atmosphere in Sa Dec in the late afternoon reminded all of us of the animated scene at the wharf on the Tien River in the past.

The house was built using precious wood in 1895. Its roof is covered by Yin-Yang tiles and designed with two curved ends in the shape of boats, a familiar symbol of the watery area in the south-western region. In 1917, Huynh Cam Thuan, father of Huynh Thuy Le reconstructed the house in the style of a French villa with a harmony of both Oriental and Western architecture.

For over 100 years, despite the destruction caused by time the house still remains intact with all its beautiful features.

The outside of the house improves visitors with the French architectural style that used decorative details, such as statues and relief from the Renaissance on the facade and arched doors in the Roman style and Gothic windows of multi-colored glass. All provide the house with a magnificent and imposing appearance. Going inside, tourists have a familiar feeling because of the Oriental architectural style that is clearly seen through skillful and refined patterns and sculptures in the shapes of birds, flowers, plants, daisies, bamboo and apricots. There are beautiful spots and scenes carved on woo that reflect the bustling life in the watery area in South Viet Nam. The house consists of three compartments with the middle one used for worshiping Guangong according to the religious belief the Chinese and two others for receiving guests and for bedrooms. The corridor of the house leads to the servants’ quarters. The floor was paved with flowered tiles and the walls were built with solid brick, 30-40 languages and it was made into a film of the same named by French Director Jean Jacques Annaud in 1992. The film has left a resounding impression on viewers all around the world.

The move famous that the novel and film become, the larger the number of foreign tourists who want to visit the house grows. Over the years, the house has become a popular destination, fascinating tourists from France, the US, Australia, Japan, South Korea and the UK.

With its value in terms of architecture and historical relic, the house was recognized as a national cultural historical relic in 2009.

Beauties and Wonders Beyond Yen Tu

2013-03-27T20:46:00.001+09:00

Every year, the Yen Tu Mountain is flocked by tens of thousands of pilgrims to begin their journey to the uppermost shrine. Known as the Buddhist capital of Vietnam, the mountain is popular for its breathtaking landscapes, historical relics and ancient pagodas, thus continuously attracting visitors that add up to the large crowd that stream toward the top.

Seasoned hikers or for those who are up for a challenging outdoor adventure, reaching Yen Tu’s peak requires a 1,600-meter trek. It may sound like a lot of work, but the spectacular scenery that unfolds as you ascend higher can make it worth the while apart from the unique experience which many considers an equally important reward.

To the relief of those who are not so keen about climbing those rock-made steps and through the bamboo and pine tree forests, they have the option to take the cable car that carries tourists up to Hoa Yen Pagoda, and from there they can continue to explore the sights and hike up to the peak. With that, there isn’t really much of the beauty that is missed.

With the huge attention Yen Tu is getting, some travelers have missed out on some more pleasant surprises should they choose to veer slightly off the beaten path and explore the west side of the holy mountain. Here, you will pass by several pagodas, waterfalls and streams besides century-old as you make your way to the mountain top in the districts of Yen Dung, Son Dong, Luc Ngan and Luc Nam in Bac Giang Province.

Mo Stream

The west side, covering nearly 100 kilometers, is also home to many cultural and historical works, especially those which were built during the Ly (1010-1225) and Tran (1226-1400) dynasties. Located at Nghia Phuong Commune, Luc Nam District is Mo Stream. This beautiful stream winds through a valley between Huyen Dinh and Yen Tu mountains and with three temples that can be found along the stream: the Thuong (Upper), Trung (Middle) and Ha (Lower). According to folktales, these temples were said to be built during the 10th century Le dynasty in honor of Princess Que My Nuong, the daughter of King Hung XVI.

Many sections of the stream turn into small and big waterfalls, including Thum Thum, the highest of them all. Quite a little distant, Thum Thum is located along the winding 3.5 km road from the Thuong temple, through the Suoi Mo lake project. But all the hard work one has to take to get there will be washed away as the magical beauty of Thum Thum unfolds.

Thum Thum Falls

Thum Thum, starting from the top of Huyen Dinh Mountain some 100 meters high, falls in four stages with each of them having its own unique attraction. As its water pours down from above, it creates a wonderful natural bath and drum-like sounds, of which where it was named after. The water is very pure and cool. The flora is highly developed and rich diversity of forest trees emerging to cover the stream.

At the first stage are inviting bathtubs-like ponds naturally created from the cascade and rocks. The second level was named Tron (slippery) Waterfall because of its challenging and slippery path. The third level exudes it own unique and calm beauty. Here, the water is noticeably clean and pure that even the tiniest pebble on the bottom could be seen.

Pretty much an obstacle course to make it to the top, reaching the highest level would take some crossing through humongous rocks and a forest. Yet the immaculate feeling of being on the peak and sweet echoes from the water rushing down will soothe all the exhaustion away.

Nuoc Vang Stream

One of the most famous “assets” of Luc Nam is the Nuoc Vang (golden water) Stream that runs along Phat Son Mountain, between 800 and 900 meters above the sea level. The road leading to the stream is meandering and curved. The stream has its name from the color of its water which is honey-yellow throughout the year. Such color is believed to be caused by a giant coal mine in Quang Ninh Province or the disintegration and agglomeration of trees over thousands of years. Every summer, the bright yellow fades. Every winter, it darkens. Many locals also believe that the water picks up its tinge as it flows through yellow sandstone. Until present, however, no one has settled on a satisfactory explanation on this. Just don’t be fooled as this bizarre-colored waters are as clean and pure as you can hope to find anywhere in the country. For generations, water drawn from the spring has sustained the livelihoods of many local Vietnamese families living around the area.

Giot Waterfall

At the top of Nuoc Vang is the 50-meter-high Giot Waterfall where you can have an undisturbed, pleasant view of the enchanted stream. The road to get there is rocky. Reaching the falls is a reward in itself. Watching the stream at Ba Giot Waterfall flows through rapids and pours over the edge in three falls, which are best viewed from upstream if you want to capture their full grandeur and beauty. Pedal-boating on the quieter reaches of the water, as well as camping, are available at the waterfall.

Nearby the waterfall is Ba Chong Stone. After millions of years of rain and sunshine, being covered by the sea three times and witnessing hundreds of severe volcanic eruptions, the three layers piled up on each other unsteadily and formed an impressive landscape.

Not far from Ba Chong Stone, two Bach Tuong hills look like a pair of elephants. On the top is Thich Ca statue sitting on a lotus base while at the bottom is a deep cave and Thien Chon pagoda.

Ba Chong stone rooting from the Oc Eo-Phu Nam civilization in the southeast highland terrace has been listed by the Ministry of Culture and Information since 1998.

Loud and proud Tan Dinh Cathedral

2013-03-11T09:38:00.001+09:00

Saigon is of course blessed with some stunning architecture with most people agreeing that the Reunification Palace is probably the most stunning and in the nation’s modern history, most historic.

However, one such structure which has always fascinated me since I sauntered past it tons of times as I first rode around a strange city as a newcomer and invariably got lost. I knew that the ‘pink tower’ as I called it at the time was near my home but I had only had to learn how to get home from the stand-out premises which proudly rises high into the sky.

After a few trips over the bridge on Hai Ba Trung in Phu Nhuan District detours I finally made it to Tran Quoc Thao in District 3 from District 1, quite an achievement for a motorbike novice in less than an hour.

Tan Dinh Cathedral was built by French colonists when the nation was part of French Indochina over a period of six years from 1870-1876.

Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica in District 1 is the largest cathedral in the city, followed closely by the more bright and beautiful Gothic-style Tan Dinh.

In 1929, the cathedral area was expanded and a 52.60m-high tower was added which ensures it is a real landmark in this part of the city.

A year after the American War in 1976 Tan Dinh again was upgraded to celebrate its century and its now distinctive pink and white colors were chosen to ensure the cathedral stands out in the Saigon skyline.

The ‘pink tower’ is a real tourist hotspot with its main tower and two smaller structures at the front. At the top of the tower is an octagon with a bronze cross standing three meters high and the main tower has five huge bells weighing about 5.5 tons.

The dome has fish scale-shaped tiles and arches adorned with decorative leaves, flowers and refined statues of angels and is popular with wannabe-photographers from home and abroad. There are statues of female saints on the left hand side and on the right are male saints. All the altars in the chancel are made from precious marble imported from Italy.

I pass it daily but at the weekend finally popped inside for a look and it is pretty spectacular. I had a quick look around and said a little prayer for my gran, a fervent Catholic, and was on my way again. Worth a visit for Saigonese and tourists alike even if it is just for a few snapshots.

Dong Van old market back in business

2013-03-09T10:23:00.001+09:00

The old Dong Van Market in the Dong Van Karst Plateau of Ha Giang Province has reopened for tourism after a new market was built for locals 500m away, vice chairwoman of the People's Committee of Dong Van District Ly Thi Kien told Viet Nam News yesterday, Jan 15.

The old market, built in 1908, was a rendezvous for ethnic groups during market days on Saturdays and Sundays.

Last year, the district people's committee decided to preserve the old market as a weekend destination for tourists and proposed a new market for local people at the nearby site.

Kien said: "We have opened the market to serve tourists on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The old market will be a destination for souvenir-hunters and thang co (a soup of horse, goat or buffalo meat) stalls, while the new market will feature butchers, grocery stalls, poultry and livestock sellers."

She said the resettlement aimed to create a clean and fresh market for tourists, but retain the traditional market spirit which has inspired over the past 100 years.

Bui Thi Thai, a resident in the district, said she had expected the old market to open again because the crowded market on weekends was a definitive image of the district.

"It used to be crowded on weekends. The famed weekly market covers a cross-section of ethnic Mong life with their traditional cuisine of thang co and rice wine," Thai said.

The 44-year-old, whose father is from the Tay people and mother was from the Mong people, added that the old market has become quieter as people flock to the new market, with only thang co, men men (maize powder cake) and souvenir stalls being allowed to stay at the previous market.

The Dong Van Karst Plateau, situated 1,000m above sea level, was recognised as UNESCO Karst Plateau – Viet Nam's first Global Geopark in 2010.

A row of 20th-century-old houses, situated opposite the market, also offer old Mong cuisine.

Dong Van District, which lies 150km northeast of Ha Giang City and 500km north of Ha Noi, is only accessible by bus or off-road motorbikes.

Bin Thuy’s House of Ancient Beauty

2013-03-06T17:10:00.001+09:00

“The Lover” is a film about 30 years old about a Chinese man (played by Tony Leung Ka-fai) and a French girl (played by Jane March) who fell in love in Vietnam in the 1920s. Jean Jacques Annaud, a Frenchman himself, directed the film and in his travels in search of scenes for the movie, he came upon the southern city of Can Tho wherein he discovered and was mesmerized by the ancient beauty of the house of Bin Thuy that he knew right then and there it had to be a part of the movie. In fact, the house was so stunning that some (or many) of the people who saw the movie actually traveled to the place to see the ancient beauty with their own eyes.

And for those who have seen the house for themselves, they would even be delighted to discover that the house is even more beautiful up close than in the movies. Although built already 140 years ago, the structure retained the beauty of its East-West architecture, a contrasting feature which got the French director’s attention and interest in the first place. The outside appearance of the house is French-designed, while the interior design is authentic Vietnamese.

Inside, there is a huge historical altar lacquered in red and trimmed with gold as the centerpiece of the house. The furniture is made of antique wood, and everything else in the house is antique including kitchen wares such as wash basins and jars. But the center of interest and perhaps wonder in the house is its collection of ancient items that have been carefully preserved for generations. For instance, the hanging lamps date as far back as the 19th century. A round marble table has been around since the 18th century, while a set of French tables and chairs can be traced back to the ancient times of the 17th century, when King Louis XIV ruled the kingdom.

The famous Bin Thuy house can be found in Bui Huu Nghia Street, Binh Thuy District, 5 kilometers from Can Tho. It was built in 1870 by the Duong family who arrived in the southern region of Vietnam in the late 19th century. It has a land area of 300 square meters. Duong Chan Hien is the original owner the house. He is the grandson of Duong Chan Ky, a landlord who was also a developer in the 20th century. Ngo Thi Ngoc Lien is an old woman who is presently the caretaker of the house and according to her, during the French colonialization, the family was forced to leave the house when the whole region was occupied. In fact, soldiers occupied the house as well and lived there for years.

Antique collectors keep coming back to the house to ask and convince the Duong family to sell their ancient treasure. But many times too, the family refused, even during hard times when they needed money. To them, the house has become like a witness and even companion to the rise and fall of the Duong family through Vietnam’s turbulent history. Today, during anniversaries and other special occasions, the house transforms into like a house of worship and gathering wherein descendants of the Duong family come together to commemorate their ancestors. The rest of the year, the house is open to visitors.

Because of the success and worldwide recognition of the Bin Thuy House from the movie “The Lover,” many other directors followed suit and shot scenes of or their whole movies themselves in Bin Thuy. Thus, the house has also appeared in movies such as Chan Troi Noi Ay (“The Distant Horizon”), Nhung Neo Duong Phu Sa (“The Silt Ways”), and Cay Tre Tram Dot (“The Hundred-Knot Bamboo Tree”). Moreover, since 2009, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism has named the Bin Thuy house as a “National Relic for Architectural Arts.”

While the Bin Thuy house has definitely received global recognition, family members and the government itself are in continuing efforts to preserve the ancient structure and beauty of the abode while making it available to the public.

Thành cổ Sơn Tây – Die alte Zitadelle von Sơn Tây

2013-03-05T01:05:00.001+09:00

Die Stadt Sơn Tây liegt gut 40 Kilometer nordwestlich des Zentrums von Hanoi in der ehemaligen Provinz Hà Tây, die seit dem Jahre 2008 zum Grossraum Hanoi gehoert. Wegen der strategisch guenstigen Lage am Roten Fluss vor den Toren der Hauptstadt war Sơn Tây in seiner Geschichte in wichtiger militaerischer Vorposten, besonders gegen die Invasionen aus dem Norden. Die heute zu grossen Teilen gut erhaltende Zitadelle wurde 1822, im dritten Regierungsjahr des Nguyễn-Kaisers Minh Mạng, auf dem Gelaende der beiden Doerfer Thuần Nghệ und Mai Trai errichtet.

Die quadratische Festung mit einer Seitenlaenge von etwa 450 Metern befindet sich heute mitten in der Stadt rund zwei Kilometer vom Roten Fluss entfernt. Sie war komplett von einer fuenf Meter hohen Mauer mit Schiessscharten und von einem drei Meter tiefen und 20 Meter breiten Wassergraben umgeben. An jeder Seite befand sich ein von Kanonen bewachtes Tor, das ueber eine Steinbruecke zu erreichen war, das Cửa Hậu im Norden, das Cửa Tiền im Sueden, das Cửa Hữu im Westen und das Cửa Tả im Osten. Das Nordtor und die angrenzenden Mauerabschnitte wurden vor einiger Zeit restauriert. Erhalten geblieben sind auch das West- und das Suedtor, waehrend das Tor im Osten zerstoert ist. Der Eintritt in die Festung ist nur durch das Nord- oder das Suedtor moeglich.

Im Inneren des Areals befinden sich der 18 Meter hohe Flaggenturm, der ebenfalls vor kurzem renoviert wurde und ein Palast, der abwechselnd als Verwaltungssitz, Lagerhalle und Truppenunterkunft diente. Die Zitadelle war in der 70er und 80er Jahren des 19. Jahrhunderts ein Zentrum des Widerstandes gegen die franzoesische Kolonialarmee, wurde dann aber doch nach mehr als einjaehrigem Widerstand am 16. Dezember 1883 von den Franzosen erobert. Der General-Gouverneur von Franzoesisch-Indochina liess sie im Jahre 1924 auf die Liste der historischen Denkmaeler von Tongking setzen. Seit 1994 gehoert die Zitadelle von Sơn Tây zum Nationalen Kulturerbe Vietnams.

Einen Besuch von Sơn Tây kann man sehr gut mit einer Zeitreise in die ganz in der Naehe der Stadt liegenden Gemeinde Đường Lâm verbinden.

Viele Gruesse
Cathrin

Cathrin’s Blog: Zwischen Traditionen und Moderne

National Heritage Restoration: VND7.4 Trillion Worth

2013-02-21T09:01:00.001+09:00

VND7.4 trillion is needed to restore thousands of national heritage sites by 2015. And the Prime Minister has approved it.

Funding for the restoration project of these national heritage sites was initially estimated at VND5.2 trillion. The overall approved budget is VND7.4 trillion.

Based on the Culture National Target Programme for 2012-2015, 300 special national heritage sites will be restored. 1,200-1,500 sites will at the same time receive support to preserve the establishments from deteriorating further. Moreover, five aspects of cultural heritage will also be submitted to UNESCO for recognition.

The government targets to restore 60-90 national heritage sites every year, as well as aiming to fight the decaying of 300-400 other sites. The government also vows to resume restoring unfinished heritage sites.

There are approximately 500 projects to gather and save of data and information of the heritage sites to be placed in a database. The cultural sector plans to send files on five “intangible” heritages to UNESCO, revive about 20 festivals, and convert certain old villages into cultural tourism sites.

The Prime Minister himself has ordered that the classification of heritage sites in the country be finished the soonest. In addition to the VND7.4 trillion restoration project, the government also plans to release another budget aimed to support this time provincial and city museums. With an estimated amount of VND290 billion, the project’s goal is to purchase 10-30 artifacts annually for the succeeding three years.

To further support and preserve the national heritage of Vietnam, the government furthermore will hand out financial aid to traditional art troupes by upgrading their theaters, especially in areas which have one-of-a-kind arts. Public and private sector artists will also receive equipment and training courses as part of the preservation project.

It is the goal of the Prime Minister and the government as a whole to exert all its efforts in preserving and restoring the national heritage sites and the heritage of Vietnam as a whole.

The Year of the Snake has come: Naming the Years of the Vietnamese Lunar Calendar (Âm Lịch Việt Nam)

2013-02-12T03:19:00.001+09:00

The year of the Snake has just arrived. February 10, 2013 marked the beginning of a year that is dynamic and powerful as the Snake itself. This is the year, which has been given the name Quý Tỵ, as provided by the Vietnamese Lunar Calendar.

As naming the years is not as popular in other parts of the world, things for them might appear a little complicated to put together regarding how the years are named.

Whereas the previous year (2012) was called Nhâm Thìn and how the following year’s name of Giáp Ngọ (year 2014) is already figured out, the system of naming the years along with the cycles in the Lunar calendar would, in reality, only require a few basic understanding of this remarkably interesting calendar.

Naming a Vietnamese year is basically done by combining two cycles, the "Ten Heavenly Stems" and the "Twelve Earthly Branches".

Twelve Earthly Branches

The "Twelve Earthly Branches" ("shi er di zhi") denotes the twelve signs of the zodiac consisting of: Tý (Rat), Sửu (Ox/Buffalo), Dần (Tiger), Mẹo/Mão (Cat/Rabbit), Thìn (Dragon), Tỵ (Snake), Ngọ (Horse), Mùi (Sheep/Goat), Thân (Monkey), Dậu (Chicken), Tuất (Dog) and the Hợi (Pig/Boar).

Ten Heavenly Stems

Meanwhile, the "Ten Heavenly Stems" ("shi tian gan" ...), comprised of Giáp, Ất, Bính, Đinh, Mậu, Kỷ, Canh, Tân, Nhâm and Quý are further associated with the concept of Yin and Yang as well as of with the five "Basic Elements" where Giáp and Ất belongs to "Wood", Bính and Đinh to "Fire", Mậu and Kỷ to "Earth", Canh and Tân to "Metal", and Nhâm and Quý to the element "Water". In relation to the two basic properties "yang" (Am) and "yin" (Duong), Giáp, Bính, Mậu, Canh and Nhâm are known to hold the qualities of "yang", while Ất, Đinh, Kỷ, Tân and Quý possess the "yin" qualities.

Naming the year

So putting two and two together, combining this year’s heavenly stem (Canh) in parallel with its property (Yang) and Basic Element (Metal) to its earthly body Dragon (Thìn), 2012 Nhâm Thìn is labeled as "Yang Water Dragon".

Combining in a round-robin manner the two shorter cycles of the "Can", or the ten-year cycle
denoting the "Ten Heavenly Stems" and the "Ky" or the twelve-year cycle in congruent with
the "Twelve Earthly Branches", a greater cycle of 60 years is formed. Derived from the least common multiple of 10 and 12, the 60-year cycle (called Can Chi) is more like how the centuries are divided into every 100 years.

The cycle

As it cycles continuously, a particular year will return every after 60-year period. Each year in the Can Chi corresponds to a particular year name as follows:

Giáp Tý
Ất Sửu
Bính Dần
Đinh Mão
Mậu Thìn
Kỷ Tỵ
Canh Ngọ
Tân Mùi
Nhâm Thân
Quý Dậu
Giáp Tuất
Ất Hợi
Bính Tý
Đinh Sửu
Mậu Dần
Kỷ Mão
Canh Thìn
Tân Tỵ
Nhâm Ngọ
Quý Mùi
Giáp Thân
Ất Dậu
Bính Tuất
Đinh Hợi
Mậu Tý
Kỷ Sửu
Canh Dần
Tân Mão
Nhâm Thìn
Quý Tỵ
Giáp Ngọ
Ất Mùi
Bính Thân
Đinh Dậu
Mậu Tuất
Kỷ Hợi
Canh Tý
Tân Sửu
Nhâm Dần
Quý Mão
Giáp Thìn
Ất Tỵ
Bính Ngọ
Đinh Mùi
Mậu Thân
Kỷ Dậu
Canh Tuất
Tân Hợi
Nhâm Tý
Quý Sửu
Giáp Dần
Ất Mão
Bính Thìn
Đinh Tỵ
Mậu Ngọ
Kỷ Mùi
Canh Thân
Tân Dậu
Nhâm Tuất
Quý Hợi

Used in China since the second millennium B.C. as its manner of naming their days (pretty much how the Western world names the days of their week). The method utilizing the Sexagenary (Stem-Branches) cycle is evident throughout the Zhou dynasty as their records were found to be written in such manner. Its popularity is seen much widely around 202 BC-8 A.D. during the period of Western Han Dynasty. How and when it was adopted by several other East Asian countries (Japan, Korea, Vietnam...) varied throughout history.

Since a particular year returns after every Can Chi or passing sexagenary cycle, a year that began in 1984 will therefore enter a new cycle by year 2044. In the same manner, the previous Quý Tỵ took place during 1953 which is exactly 60 years from today. When this cycle ends, the next Quý Tỵ, then, won’t be around until year 2073.

Experiencing Vietnam’s Tet Festival

2013-02-09T10:07:00.001+09:00

Because of its significance in the country’s cultural identity, the Vietnamese New Year, more known as Tet, is considered the most important and popular festival in Vietnam.

Celebrated at the same time with the Chinese New Year around late January or early February of every year, particularly on the first day of the first month of the Lunar calendar, it is among those times when the customary practices of the Vietnamese are most visible and appreciated. Ancestral worshipping, pilgrims and family reunions are commonly observed.

The country’s general atmosphere is characterized by positivity and hope. The bustling streets are filled with people busy with shopping for gifts and decorations. Vietnamese who have been away usually return to their families to celebrate the event. But perhaps, how substantially rooted Tet have been in the lives of the Vietnamese could be seen how even those who have settled in other countries will never forget the fine customs handed down through generations.

For the Vietnamese people, it is both an occasion and opportunity of renewal and rejuvenation, as every deed during the three days of Tet will greatly influence the coming twelve months. With that, they take steps to correct their mistakes, patch up differences, pay off their debts, keep things in order and avoid committing undesirable deeds. Paying homage to the ancestors is given great importance as well as spending time with the family. People wish each other with luck, prosperity and good fortune.

Preparation of traditional Tet food is extensive, and traveling to the country during this time could be a wonderful experience for any tourist. Apart from the local cuisine, which some could only be tasted during Tet, the parades, dance performances and the rest of the traditional practices could be an extraordinary encounter. As the festival often stretches up to a week because of the many other celebrations that occur before and after Tet, coming to Vietnam during this holiday season could be among the best experience one can ever have in Vietnam.

With just a few days away for the next Tet, which is marked on January 23, 2012, Vietnam is slowly beginning its preparations for welcoming the year of the Dragon. Upcoming Tet dates include February 10, 2013 for year of the Snake and January 31, 2014 for the year of the Horse.

New Year Customs, Vietnam Style

2013-02-07T11:42:00.001+09:00

There are several New Year customs in Vietnam that further enrich the already interesting Vietnamese culture.

One such custom is the Xong Dat. Literally meaning “first visit to a land,” this is one very crucial aspect of the Vietnamese culture since most of the nation’s economy depends on farming. Thus, Xong Dat shows one’s love for the earth.

According to the historian Le Van Lan, Xong Dat rests on the belief that if the land is good, the house built on it is also good and the family that lives there will have good luck. Van Lan specifically stated that showing love for the Mother Land is a “sacred connection that can’t be turned into a service.”

It is based on this custom therefore that the first visitor to a land or house during the New Year is very significant since he or she is considered to be the one to decide the luck of the host for the rest of the year. The visitor should have a pure and genuine soul in order for good luck to enter into the house so traditionally, this visitor is usually a family member or a good friend.

Money-giving is another indispensable part of Vietnamese custom during the Lunar New Year or Tet Festival. Believing that giving money on Tet will bring about wonderful events in the future, the old people, like grandfathers and grandmothers, congratulate the children on becoming a year older by giving them money placed in nice, small red paper envelopes which symbolize luck and good fortune. This tradition is fairly new though and not given much value compared to the other customs, but the Vietnamese still practice it anyway on the hope for “growth and successful study.”

Another age-old tradition of the Vietnamese people during the Lunar New Year is visiting pagodas. During this time of the year, a large number people go on a pilgrimage to Tay Ho and Tran Quoc pagodas or Ngoc Son and Quan Thanh temples. Tay Ho Pagoda in particular is the most popular of all, with up to thousands of visitors, both local and foreign, going to the sacred place during the Tet holidays.

The first half of the first lunar month is the best time for a pilgrimage because it is spring season. Streams of devotees flock to these holy places of worship in tune with the most beautiful time of the year. Moreover, this is also a lucrative time for business as fruit and offering shops swarm to the area, trying to attract the visitors with their wares.

Sweet Tet Treat

2013-01-29T09:29:00.001+09:00

The Lunar New Year has many wonderful and fun traditions. One of the most anticipated Tet customs perhaps is preparing and sharing Mut Tet to family, friends, visitors and even to ancestors. Mut Tet is colorful, candied fruits that have become an indispensable Tet treat for many generations.

A Mut Tet tradition usually consists of a visitor nibbling on the traditional New Year fruit candy, roasted watermelon seeds, and sipping on jasmine tea. The Vietnamese used to make the Tet candies themselves as part of the tradition. But sadly nowadays, people have become so busy that this sweet tradition is slowly dying. The home-made candies are now being sold commercially in supermarkets and stores and people just conveniently buy them and set them down all ready for Tet.

But for those who want to keep the tradition alive, some Vietnamese continue to prepare the New Year treats at home where the ingredients are surprisingly available and healthy. Coconut, ginger, sweet potato, kumquat, tamarind, and pineapple are the usual fruits made into Mut Tet which have the health benefits of relieving flatulence, sore throat and stress; promotes digestion and good sleep; and eases hangovers.

Lotus seeds seem to be the favorite ingredient for Mut Tet for their delicious taste and easy process of making. Here is the procedure for making candy out of Lotus seeds:

The seeds are soaked in water for a number of hours in order to get bigger and softer. Meanwhile, water is boiled where the seeds are then added. Once the mixture simmers, the seeds are transferred into a bowl, rinsed and cooled. Sugar is then added to the seeds to taste. Heat a pan with half a bowl of water, add sugar, and stir constantly until the sugar dissolves. Simmer the mixture to low heat until it becomes thick and syrupy.

Add the lotus seeds into the pan and stir gently. To make the mixture smell even more inviting, you can add juice extracted from pomelo flowers. Slant the pan to separate the seeds from the syrup. Pour the syrup onto the lotus seeds until they turn translucent. Pour it into a tray and allow to cool. The delicious New Year candy treat is now ready to be enjoyed.

Aside from the delicious taste and easy process, Lotus seeds also have the health benefits of relieving stress and promoting good sleep.