How to Wax a Car

2012-03-27T00:13:00.000-04:00

Know how to wax a car right - Get this result!

Harsh UV sunlight... Acid rain ... Corrosive road salt... Bird droppings ... Insect residue...Tree sap... Road tar ...

All these things attack your vehicle's finish, causing it to fade, chalk, dull and discolor over time.

If you're interested in protecting your investment and getting more money when the time comes to resell your vehicle, or if you just want to find out the best way to make your baby shine, read on to learn how to wax a car.

Tips and Techniques on How To Wax a Car

There's always and right way and a wrong way, a good way and a better way to do anything. This fact holds true especially concerning how to wax a car.

Here's What To Do and What not To Do.

1. Park in the shade

Commercials always show people washing and waxing their autos on a hot day, usually in full sunshine. It looks great for ads because it shows the shine, but it really doesn't show how to wax a car the right way. A hot, sunny location is the worst place you can apply soap and polish. Why?

· A hot surface will cause any soap,
residue remover or wax to dry too quickly, making it difficult to remove.

· Paint tends to soften somewhat as it heats. This can lead to ugly micro-scratching
as you rub to remove the dirt or as you polish.

· Certain waxes are not formulated to be applied to heated car surfaces. Basically,

they become chemically altered and lose their effectiveness.

3. Wash and Dry your car

Applying wax to a wet surface causes streaking. Be sure to check that trim isn't holding water behind it as it may drip or be wicked onto the surface as you polish or before you are ready to remove it.

It's better to use a soft, lint-free cloth or a chamois to remove the water. Air drying leaves spots.

4. Apply the wax

Apply in overlapping circles

· Start by carefully reading

manufacturer's directions.

· Use a clean, soft cloth and apply

the car polish in a light, even

coat.

· Use even, slightly overlapping
circular motions.

· Avoid rubber strips and textured
plastic parts and surfaces - they
absorb the wax and this makes a
white stain hat's very difficult to
remove.

· Only apply to one section of your car at a time rather than the whole car. Why? See below.

· Let the wax dry to a haze. Don't let it sit on the surface much longer than the

time it takes to dry because the longer it sits after it has dried to a haze, the

harder it is to remove. You don't need any extra work.

5. Remove the wax

· Use a clean, soft towel or a cloth baby's diaper (yes, they still make them!) or a
microfiber towel.

· Use a circular motion and rub to remove the wax.

· Turn the cloth frequently so that you are always using the cleanest part you can.
Otherwise you will redeposit the residue and this will cause the ever-dreaded
streaking. You might want to have a second clean cloth handy.

6. Repeat Application and removal section by section until done - Now that's how to wax a car right!

How often should you wax a car?

It's best to do it about every 3-4 months, but a good general rule of thumb is if water is no longer beading on the car's surface, it's time for a wax job!

Now that you know how to wax a car properly, get out there and make it shine!

Next: Choosing the Best Car Wax

Contact Us

2012-03-26T13:27:00.000-04:00

If you have any questions, feel free to contact the webmaster of this site at the following email address: Stevecoates63@comcast.net

Thank you!

Privacy Policy

2012-03-25T13:33:00.000-04:00

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This privacy policy is subject to change without notice and was last updated on April 9, 2012. If you have any questions feel free to contact the webmaster of this site directly here: Stevecoates63@comcast.net

Disclaimer

2012-03-24T13:54:00.000-04:00

We are not professionals in the automotive industry or the automotive care industry. The information on this website contains information and opinions only. Please make your own decisions based on personal research.

We cannot be held responsible for any damage or loss to your vehicle's finish or value. We strongly encourage you to carefully read all product or tool directions and follow them to the letter. We strongly encourage you to contact the manufacturer of any product or tool before you use it to ensure your knowledge of proper and safe use or operation as well as the safety of your car, property and person. Electric car buffers, especially high-speed types, can be dangerous. Please consult a professional before using or hire a professional to do it for you.

Also, there are paid ads on this site. There is no obligation on your part to purchase any products advertised on this website. Thank you.

About Us

2012-03-24T13:45:00.000-04:00

The owners of this site have been proud car owners since 1980. Most of the vehicles we have had have been bought used and kept until more than 10 years old or bought new and kept for 10 years or more. We've always striven to keep them in top condition - mechanically as well as aesthetically.

Experience has taught us that one of the best ways to retain a vehicles value, both monetarily as well as in the eye of the owner, is to keep it beautiful through regular and proper waxing. It is our hope that others may do the same and it is for this reason that we offer the information contained on this website.

Oxidized Headlights

2012-03-24T01:00:00.000-04:00

"My car's headlights have turned cloudy and yellow and the car's only a few years old. There's got to be a way to fix them, right?"

oxidized headlights - before

What you have are called oxidized headlights. There's a couple of ways to restore and clean oxidized headlights. Some ways pretty simple, other ways a little more complicated, but doable for most people. It depends on the level of damage and how much time, effort and money you're willing to spend to fix them.

Almost every car from about 1990 on up (except for a few luxury models) have used polycarbonate headlights instead of glass. This has created quite a few problems because over time, as polycarbonate hazes over and yellows from long-term exposure to pollution, sunlight, road salt and salty air.

Hazy, yellowed, oxidized headlights not only make you car look terrible, they can actually impair your nighttime vision by 75% or even more. You may have even noticed it - objects are harder to see than they used be. This is because the light beams just don't penetrate the headlight lens like they used to. Oxidized headlights aren't only dangerous for you, but also for everyone else on the road - pedestrians included.

And beside the increased safety hazard, oxidized headlights tend to decrease a car's potential resale value. Often times they can cause a car to fail annual inspection. Costs for replacement can reach hundreds of dollars depending on make and model. These factors make DIY headlight restoration something you should try. It really isn't that hard - or expensive.

Lightly Oxidized Headlights

You want to check first if the problem isn't simple condensation inside the lens. If you look really close and see tiny water droplets, take off the lens and dry it.

Barring condensation, there are some really quick ways to deal with the oxidation. It really depends on how quick and easy you want to go.

Quick Fix 1: WD40. Apply some of this miracle stuff to a rag and rub it right on to clean your oxidized headlights. You should see an immediate improvement. Of course, a couple of rains and a car wash later, it's gone. This might be your answer at least until you can try something else.

Quick Fix 2: Car wax. Mildly abrasive car wax is great for the oxidation that can occur on your car's finish and the same can be said for the headlights. A little grit can do wonders.

Quick fix 3: Toothpaste. The grit principle applies here as well. Just avoid whitening toothpaste or toothpaste with mint flavoring. These have additional chemicals which the plastic doesn't tolerate well. You might do more damage.

Moderate to Heavily Oxidized Headlights

The next method requires a lot more elbow grease and a little more guts to do. You'll have to be comfortable with using some sandpaper on your headlights. Don't worry, it's very, very fine grade sandpaper and you'll progressively use finer and finer grades. And the results can be excellent. It has to be noted, however, that many people have mixed results with this method. It tends to be a very temporary fix and after a few months you can end up with oxidized headlights again. This is because once the protective coat of the lens has been removed the plastic is naked to the element. Yes, you will be removing the clear-coat of the headlight also, but you will be replacing it with a substitute one and this will give much more lasting results.

Basic equipment:

Masking tape. If you can get the wide blue kind, this is best. You'll need to protect the area around the lens.
Progressive grades of sandpaper - 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit and 2500 grit
Car Polish
Terry cloth towel
Water in a sprayer bottle
UV inhibiting sealant. This will replace the clear-coat. An excellent choice is Solaray Headlight Lens Clear Coat

Procedure:

Mask-off the area around the oxidized headlight.

Take the 1000 grit sandpaper and with a generous amount of water sprayed onto the lens, sand lightly but evenly in a circular motion. Rub for a few minutes and then go a few more minutes than you think you should have - it takes time and time and elbow grease makes all the difference. After this, rinse well to get rid of the residue and any loose 1000 grit. Now use the 1500 grit and do the same procedure. Always rinse after each grit change. When you've finished with the 2500 grit, rinse well with water and wipe off. All the while you should have been noticing the continual improvement of the clarity of the plastic. Now, apply polish onto your terrycloth towel and work that for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly and dry thoroughly.

oxidized headlight - after

At this point your previously oxidized headlight should look remarkable! You could stop here, but you need to apply the sealant. UV cured sealant is normally cured using a UV lamp, but you can achieve a satisfactory result by leaving your car in full sun for a few hours.

Washing Your Car - The First Step to Waxing

2012-03-23T15:46:00.000-04:00

A great wax job always starts with a washing your car. If you're going to do a proper job of waxing your car, you've got to start with washing your car properly. This makes everything else afterward easier.

Waxing always starts with washing your car

Here are some basic guidelines for washing your car

1. Park in the shade - Pull behind the shadow of your house, another building or under a tree. It might look like fun to be washing your car in the bright, warm sunshine, but sunlight can heat up the car surface and allow the water and soap to dry on the paint.

2. Gather the material you'll need for washing your car - The basic equipment should include 2 four- or five-gallon buckets, 2 washing mitts, 2 microfiber towels for drying, a soft bristled brush with a long handle for large vehicles, a small hand brush for wheels, a hose with sprayer attachment, car wash soap and bug remover.

Basic equipment will do the job. Needless to say, when washing your car, it's up to you if you want to upgrade material. You can buy cheap car wash - it'll get the job done. But for a few dollars more, a better quality product ensures an easier job of washing your car and better results. High-quality car wash soap often contains special lubricants to trap dirt particles for easier rinsing and is PH balanced so it doesn't adversely affect the finish. One thing you must never use is dish soap. This is not intended for auto paint and will strip the wax off - I repeat: Never use dish soap when washing your car.

3. Dress for the occasion. Washing your car is not intended for those who don't intend to get wet. Make sure you aren't wearing anything you don't mind getting soaked. This includes shoes. If it's nice and warm out, so much the better.

4. Fill both buckets with clean, cool water. Add the recommended amount of soap to one of the buckets and mix it well. Keep your hose turned on so you can use it as needed, but please use a spray nozzle that cuts off when not in use to conserve water. If left running while washing your car, you could waste hundreds of gallons of water unnecessarily.

5. Apply bug remover if using. Allow some time for it to work its magic and loosen up any insect residue. You can also use a clay bar after you're done washing your car as this is also effective for bug removal.

6. Rinse the car with clean, cool water. Don't spray too hard - gentle is better. You want to always start at the top of your vehicle to loosen any dirt and debris. The bottom of any auto is the dirtiest. You don't want to blow this stuff upward, so always go top to bottom when rinsing. Keep your vehicle wet during the whole car wash even if you haven't soaped it yet. This aids in the cleaning process.

7. Apply the soap. Using a clean car wash mitt, generously apply the soap to the top of your auto. Again, it's always top to bottom when washing your car. If you have a tall vehicle, use the long-handled soft bristle brush in place of the mitt for the top of your vehicle. Once you've thoroughly soaped the section, rinse your mitt or brush in the bucket of clean water to remove any dirt or grit and put it aside into the soapy bucket. It is super important to rinse your mitt or brush often to minimize the potential of scratches when washing your car.

8. Rinse the soap off. Use a generous amount of water. Remember to keep the surfaces wet throughout the process of washing your car.

9. Repeat process for each section. Just remember to keep cleaning top to bottom.

Do tires last when washing your car

10. Wheels and tires. It's a really good idea to keep a separate mitt for the wheels and only use this one each time you're washing your car. The wheels and tires are often the dirtiest, grittiest part, so you'll want to do these last. A good scrub brush can help loosen some of the grime around the hubcaps and rim. Be sure to take your hose and spray up and around the wheel well to get some of the dirt out.

11. Dry your car. Take one of your microfiber cloths and dry the vehicle from top to bottom. It is important to be thorough, especially if you are waxing your car afterward. Applying wax to a wet surface causes streaking. Be sure to check that trim isn't holding water behind it as it may drip or be wicked onto the surface as you wax or before you are ready to remove it. You may want to tear off the stiff tag that might be on you microfiber towel. You want to minimize the possibility of scratching whenever you can when washing your car and drying it.

Now that you're done washing your car, how about a nice wax?

Next: How to Wax a Car

Paint Chip Repair

2012-03-23T11:48:00.000-04:00

"There's a dozen tiny chips on the front end of my car. Is there any way I can get rid of them?"

Those tiny chips on your car, especially if they're on the front end, are called "road rash". They're caused by small pebbles or tiny pieces of loose asphalt hitting the finish and taking off tiny pieces of paint. Fortunately, these days, it's fairly easy to do a decent paint chip repair job.

A few years ago, it used to be that if you wanted to do paint chip repair on your car, you had to go to the dealer and get a bottle of OEM touch-up paint and a small paint brush. This was fine if you were OK with globs and blobs of paint all over the front of the car. Frankly, dabbed-on touch-up made your car look like it had a case of acne. The fix was worse than the problem.

Now, there is a much better way of paint chip repair than using a bottle touch-up or a paint pen. It's called Dr. Color Chip.

Dr. Color Chip makes it super easy to do a paint chip repair job. You can order an exact match to your car's finish by model and year. The paint they use might look like ordinary OEM touch-up, but that's where the similarity stops.

Dr. Color Chip is available in three different kits depending on your paint chip repair needs:

The Basic kit sells for $39.00 and includes a bottle of your make and model color touch-up, a bottle of sealant, a tandem paint brush with a small tip and a large tip, a glove and instructions. The basic is enough to repair about a dozen or so chips.

The Standard kit sells for $49.00 and includes the same items, only enough to take care of two dozen chips. It also includes two extra brushes and a microfiber towel for buffing.

The Road Rash kit sells for $59.00. It includes the same items as the Standard, but more paint and sealer; enough to cover more than two dozen chips.

Super Easy Paint Chip Repair

Dr. Color Chip is unbelievably easy to use. First you wash and dry your car. Put on the glove they supply. Then, apply the paint to your brush and dab it into and slightly over each chip. Swipe it and smear it slightly
with your finger. It's OK that it looks messy at first. Next, let the paint sit for a minimum of 5 minutes. 30 minutes to an hour is better. Then, take a soft, cotton cloth, apply a little sealant and gently wipe away the excess from around the chip. Try not to press too hard or too much will come out of the chip. Finish by buffing with the microfiber cloth. It's that easy! No special skill needed. You'll have to immediately follow up by a coat of wax for protection.

Dr. Color Chip does a really excellent job of camouflaging the chips. But don't expect it to totally fill in chips and make the finish smooth. It won't. Really close up, the chips are still there. But basically, it does a good enough job of hiding them so that you'd only know they were there if you were up within a foot or two and actually looking for them. To everyone else, they're essentially invisible. You could reapply until the chip is full or better yet, use an orbital buffer and polish out the chips if you're really looking for perfection.

Pros:

Super easy.
Really dramatic difference in appearance between before and after.
Way more effective than other touch-up methods of paint chip repair.

Cons:

Doesn't completely fill in chips.
Some problems with this system of paint chip repair is that the repairs may appear slightly dull due to the absence of a clear coat.
The glove sometimes tends to drag on the car's finish causing the touch-up paint to pull out of the chip.

Overall:
Dr. Color Chip is an excellent product. If you want an easy and effective way to get rid of road rash, nothing else compares. It's not perfect, but short of a new paint job, you won't find a better way of paint chip repair.

Why You Should Use Microfiber Towels for Buffing

2012-03-22T16:45:00.000-04:00

"I always keep a couple of old undershirts around for cleaning the car..."

For years, people have grabbed their old undershirts or an old baby's diaper and used them for washing and drying their cars and for removing wax and buffing. While there's really nothing wrong with using an old (but clean) cotton rag for waxing and detailing, there is a much superior alternative that in the short run can give better results and in the long run can even save you money - Microfiber Towels.

Microfiber towels really haven't been on the market that long. At least not long enough for some of the older folks who are diehards at using the same products and methods. These are the folks who say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But what they don't realize is that in their stubbornness to change, they may actually be hurting their car's finish. Microfiber towels (especially with the tags removed) are much softer than cotton and will never scratch a car's paint unless they are dirty with gritty material.

Microfiber (top) versus Cotton (bottom)

Microfiber is a combination of polyester and nylon that is superior to cotton in other ways in terms of buffing. It is an excellent absorber of oil and wax. Thus, it takes much less effort to remove wax and to buff. Microfiber towels are also lint free and even slightly electrostatic. This means they actually attract dust and free dirt to them - a quality that cotton does not have. Microfiber has been specially engineered to absorb material on a microscopic level. Cotton on the other hand can be relatively absorbent, but tends to push material around more.

Microfiber towels are pretty affordable, too. You can pick up a 12-pack of them almost anywhere for under $10. That's enough to last almost anyone who does an average amount of car waxing a very long time. This is especially true since they are totally washable and reusable. Simply wash with regular washing machine detergent. Don't use detergent with fabric softener because the chemicals in that will clog the fibers of the microfiber towels and cause them to lose absorbency. Also, avoid putting them into the washer and dryer with other cloth, especially cotton. They tend to pick up a large amount of lint this way. The best way to dry is to hang them up and let them air dry.

If you aren't currently using microfiber towels on your car, do yourself a favor and give them a try.

How to Remove Smoke Smell from Cars

2012-03-21T17:15:00.000-04:00

"I just bought a used car and it smells like cigarettes. What's the best way to remove smoke smell from a car?"

Your new ride might be sweet, but the smell inside ain't. This is a common problem for lots of non-smokers. Besides smelling terrible, it's really, really bad for you and up to 20 times as bad for your children to be exposed to "third-hand smoke". You should eliminate and deodorize smoke smell from cars as quickly as possible.

"Health experts are warning of the dangers of third-hand smoke—the invisible toxic gases and particles that hang around on things like clothes and furniture long after a cigarette has been put out. Dr. Jonathan Winickoff, an associate professor of pediatrics at Harvard Medical School, says kids ingest twice the amount of these air particles that adults do, even though they may be only a tenth of the size, giving them 20 times the dose. So have no pity on guests who want to light up—send them outside. And don’t even think about allowing smoking in the car, even with a window open. “The smaller the space, the more intense the exposure to toxins,” says Winickoff." - From "The Dangers of Third-hand Smoke", Best Health Magazine, March/April, 2009.

Fortunately, there are several ways to deodorize and remove smoke smell from car. Depending on how bad the odor is, you can try either try to mask it or destroy it using one or more of the following methods:

Temporary Ways to Remove Smoke Smell from Car

Needless to say, remove and thoroughly clean the car's ashtray first.

Air Fresheners. Use the kind that hang from the rear-view plus some of the heavy-duty bathroom types. These only work if your car isn't that bad and/or you just lent your car to your brother-in-law for the day and he lit up a smoke.

Use some Fabreze. If the smoke smell isn't too bad, try spraying the seats, the carpet and the overhead liner with some Fabreze. It doesn't last for more than a few days, though, especially if your car was owned by a pack-a-dayer.

Keep an open can of unbrewed coffee grounds on the floor in the the back for a week. Or better yet, do this plus sprinkle the grounds onto the carpet and vacuum up after a day or two.

A baking soda box left open for a week should help remove smoke smell from cars. You could also sprinkle it into the carpet and vacuum.

Specially formulated to remove smoke smell from a car, Arm and Hammer Deodorizing Carpet Cleaning Powder is a more powerful deodorizing alternative to baking soda if you need more strength.

Vinegar and water spray. Mix a strong mixture of vinegar and water and apply it to the interior surfaces of the car. Don't over-wet. Vinegar might not smell all that much better than cigarette smoke, but it will disappear and along with that it should remove smoke smell from car.

A top-quality commercial stain and odor remover like Hoover PetPlus Spot Spray is very powerful way to remove smoke smell from a car. You should be able to be into cracks and crevices well with the sprayer.

Activated charcoal is famous for deodorizing and removing smells. Whirlpool Refrigerator Deodorizer is 50 times more powerful than plain baking soda. Try placing one or two in places around the car to help remove smoke smells from car.

Pure ammonia is said to eliminate the odor of cigarettes, also. A cup full placed into your cup holder and left for a few days can work wonders to remove smoke smell from the car. Make sure it isn't too full so it doesn't spill when driving.

Dryer Sheets leave a nice, clean smell if you put a few under the driver and passenger seats.

Permanent Ways to Remove Smoke Smell from Car

If you've got to break out the big guns, you can step up the fight using some of these methods.

Start by a thorough vacuuming of the carpet of your car. Take out any floor mats and wash them with hot, soapy water. You can either clean your carpets with some odor-removing shampoo or rent a steam cleaner.
You can also shampoo your seats and any other cloth surface with the same product. Just be careful not to over-wet the interior. It could promote the growth of mold if it doesn't dry quickly.
If you have vinyl or leather seats and for your dashboard, use a good quality surface cleaner and make sure you get into the creases and cracks to cut the tar and residue. Scrub any wood or rubber surfaces with something like Murphy's Oil Soap.
Don't forget the cabin overhead liner. This has probably taken the brunt of the smoke since it rises. Use a small amount of the deodorizing shampoo if it is cloth or fabric. Unfortunately, this area is especially hard to clean and you may end up having to have it professionally replaced if it is bad enough.
Clean all your windows and concentrate on all rubber seals that may be coated with cigarette smoke residue.
Remove and replace your car's cabin air filter. Undoubtedly the smoker used A/C and/or the heater and the smoke residue will be trapped in this system. You may have to clean inside the vents as best as you can.
Last resort if you can't remove smoke smell from car yourself - take your car to a commercial auto detailer.

Dry Ice Dent Removal

2012-03-21T17:11:00.000-04:00

"Is it true that dry ice works for dent removal?"

You'll generally get a variety of opinions on whether the dry ice dent removal method really works. There are a number of videos on the internet that show the dry ice dent removal technique in action and they're pretty convincing. A number of people also say they've tried the technique and say it really works. It seems that for only a few bucks for a chunk of dry ice, you can save a couple of hundred in dent removal repair cost. Sounds interesting, but is it true?

Basically, the theory behind dry ice dent removal is basic physics. It's a known fact that metal expands when it is heated and contracts when it gets cold. Applying this principle in a practical fashion, it then stands to reason that if the metal around a dent is sufficiently cooled to the point of contracting, the dent will actually pull itself out and the metal will return back to its original shape.

The first question you should ask before attempting dry ice dent removal is "is this safe for the paint?" Paint should be able to handle some temperature variation, but caution is highly advised since paint and metal won't have the same properties of expansion and contraction. The danger with the dry ice dent removal technique is that there could be a separation or lifting of the paint from the metal surface as each contracts at a different rate. While this seems like it should be the case, there isn't any documented case of paint damage using this method. If you attempt this, do so at your own risk.

How to do Dry Ice Dent Removal

dry ice can help with this dent's removal

First, you need to assess the severity of the dent. This method works best on larger, shallow dents of about 1-1/2" or larger on flat surfaces. Hail dents seem to come out well also. Any dent that shows paint cracking or any creasing of the metal will probably be a poor candidate. But the results have varied and dry ice isn't that expensive - it may be worth the effort. The dent shown at right is a good candidate for the dry ice dent removal method.

Next, assemble your tools:

A small piece of dry ice - surprisingly, these can be purchased often at your local supermarket or even at your post office. Ice cream companies often carry dry ice or you can look in the phone book for any company that sells regular ice. They usually have it. If all else fails you can substitute a can of compressed air like the kind you use to dust your computer. Held upside down and sprayed, these can achieve a very cold temperature and work pretty well.

Caution: Both dry ice and compressed air spray is astoundingly cold. Cold enough to give you instant frostbite that permanently damages flesh. Handle with extreme care and wear protection.

Eye protective goggles

Thick insulated gloves - the thicker the better.

A standard hair dryer set on hot.

When you're ready to proceed, make sure the area of the dent to be worked on is clean and dry. You'll be rubbing the ice directly on the paint and any dirt will scratch it.

Have your protective gear on and your hair dryer plugged in. Carefully heat the area around the dent with the dryer. Don't heat it excessively. Immediately, take the dry ice and press it directly on the area of the dent for 30 seconds to a minute. You may or may not see an improvement, but reheat the area with the blowdryer and repeat icing the dent. It may take several times for the metal to contract and pull out the dent.

Not everyone who has tried the dry ice dent removal technique has had success. Some people find that their dents have improved but have not entirely disappeared. Your results will probably vary depending on the degree of severity of the dent.

Overall, dry ice dent removal is an option you should consider if you want to save some money on dent removal repair cost.

Tire Dressing For Better Tire Shine

2012-03-21T16:58:00.000-04:00

"How do I get my tires to look new and shine again?"

Tire dressing kicks it up

A washed and waxed car is the pride of any car owner, but a clean car with old looking tires is like a man in a tuxedo wearing dirty sneakers. There are tire dressing products available that will restore tire shine with various degrees of gloss. They not only complete the look of your car, they help prevent dry rotting and hardening of the rubber and color fading. Depending on the formula, they may even provide important UV protection.

There are two basic types of tire dressing products on the market today: Solvent-based and water-based tire dressing. Both use silicone as the restorative ingredient. Solvent-based tire dressing tends to last longer in general than water-based and provides a good long-lasting, usually glossy, waterproof surface when dry. Water-based tire dressing tends dry fast and well and gives minimum "spin off" or "sling." Spin off or sling is when the product remains liquid on the tire surface and is sprayed onto the car surface around the wheel wells.

Application techniques vary depending on the product, but there are two basic ways of application. For best results, the tires should be clean and dry.

For Wipe-on or Gel Tire Dressing products

Gel tire dressing usually comes with an applicator sponge or you could use a soft bristled brush. The problem with the sponge is that it is often difficult to spread the tire dressing into and around raised letters or other raised details on the tire. The better the tire shine is spread, the less likely there will be a spin-off or sling problem. Wipe off any tire shine that may have gotten onto the wheel or hubcap.

For Spray Tire Dressing products

Don't just spray the product onto the tires despite what the bottle says. Spraying onto the tire often makes the tire dressing bead up and not be evenly applied. The greater risk, however, is that you will get over-spray onto the finish of your car. It won't hurt and you can just wipe it off , but you probably just washed and waxed your car and don't need the extra trouble. Instead, spray onto a soft-bristled brush. The brush will help get the product onto the tire evenly and into the details of the tire. If you accidentally get some tire shine onto an unwanted area, just wipe off.

Some Recommended Tire Dressing Products

Armor All Extreme Tire Shine - 18 oz. bottle: You can get this for around $10 almost anywhere. This is a gel-type product that comes with an applicator sponge. The sponge tends to make it hard to get the gel out of the rubber details, but the product seems to give a good, bold shine that is decently long lasting.

Turtle Wax T-476 ICE Tire Shine - 23 oz. spray bottle: This has a unique applicator brush that's built right onto the sprayer. You can remove the brush for better control if needed. This hybrid system helps eliminate over-spray and is fast and easy although it is somewhat hard to brush when attached to a full bottle. Low spin-off. Very affordable and can be purchase just about anywhere for about $10.

Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss - 16 oz. bottle: Non-greasy, no sling and UV protectant, Z-16 also has anti-static properties that repel dirt and dust. It's pretty durable, too - water repellant through a couple of rains and a few weeks. Z-16 is water-based and gives a nice satin finish - like a new tire - but you can do an additional application to increase the gloss. It's a little more money per ounce than Armor All or Turtle Wax and you can only get it online. Sell for about $13.

Meguiar's Hyper Dressing - 1 gallon bottle: Unusual for the fact that you can actually mix this in various ratios to achieve anywhere from a matte new tire finish to a high gloss. Very durable for water-based tire dressing, Hyper Dressing is also very low sling even at higher ratios if you let it dry properly and buff. It's usually sold only by the gallon, but you can get a small sample bottle some places online. Gallons go for about $35; the 32 oz. sample bottle for about $15. Because it can be diluted up to a 4:1 ratio, Hyper tends to be a great value per ounce and will probably last the average person years. You'll have to use an empty spray bottle with this. Recommended bottles and spray heads are sold along with the tire dressing. Apply with a foam sponge or brush.

Easy Windshield Wiper Replacement

2012-03-21T16:25:00.000-04:00

One of the most under-appreciated parts of your car's exterior are your windshield wipers. If they're in tip-top condition, they're not really not anything you ever think about. But if they're not, you'll wish you did a windshield wiper replacement the next time you're driving down the road in a sudden summer downpour!

You need every bit of visibility during those bad weather conditions. If your windshield wipers are worn, hardened, cracked or split, don't wait until it's too late to replace them. You can tell that you need a windshield wiper replacement if they've been leaving ugly streaks and smears or even scratches on the glass or if they make a funny scraping noise when they operate. Don't be fooled, those things aren't just cosmetic or simply annoying. Worn windshield wiper blades are a safety concern!

Sometimes if you're experiencing poor performance from your windshield wipers, it's just dirt and insect residue that is caught on the edge of the blade. Lift up the arm of each wiper and try to clean the blade off using a soft, clean cloth and some window cleaner. If this doesn't fix the problem, you'll know you really do need a windshield wiper replacement.

Windshield wiper replacement is not hard. There are a number of good replacement blades you can buy and it only takes a few minutes to take them off and pop them back on. First, you might want to consider your windshield wiper replacement options: silicone, rubber and graphite.

Most people think that windshield wipers replacement blades are available strictly in rubber. That may have once been the case, but not today. You can get rubber, silicone or graphite replacements at most auto parts stores or online. Here are some interesting features of each.

Rubber - lasts 6 months to a year. Rubber windshield wiper replacement blades tend to breakdown relatively quickly in the continuous exposure to sunlight and other harsh weather conditions. They tend to be the cheapest, but least durable option.

Silicone - somewhat more durable then rubber windshield wiper replacement blades, silicone blades actually leave a slight amount of silicone on the window surface which allows the rain to bead run off easier. This tends to put less stress on the blade and increase blade life.

Graphite - this type of windshield wiper replacement blade is affordable, quiet and offers a smooth, streak-free operation.

In addition to these various material choices, you might also want to consider a windshield wiper replacement blade with a flat, low-profile design. These are becoming more common and popular because they look good, are aerodynamic and resist damage in harsh winter conditions.

Once you've chosen your windshield wiper replacement, it's a pretty simple job to take off the old ones.

Just lift the windshield wiper arm up to it's holding position. It should remain there on its own.
Find the button on the bottom center of the blade at the junction of the arm and press it.
Keep the button pressed and slide while pushing toward the end of the arm. It should just slide off.
Repeat procedures for the other side.

Caution: Be super careful at this point! The wiper arm is springy and could slam back down against the glass with nothing to cushion it. This has the potential for causing damage to your windshield. If you need to take a break with the old blade off or you need to let go to get the new blade, gently lay the wiper arm down.

To install your new windshield wiper replacement blade, it's just as easy as taking it off.

Note that the one end of the clip on your blade that is curved.
Position it up and lower the wiper down onto the wiper arm.
Move the hook of the wiper arm over the clip and pull the wiper up so the clip slides into the hook. Listen for it to snap and give it a pull for tightness.
Repeat the procedure for the other side.

Now that your done your windshield wiper replacement, it's time to test it. Just turn your car on, give a spray of wiper fluid and see the difference your new blades make!