Bill Springer's Boat Blog

Cruising in Cuba

2012-01-27T11:08:00.000-05:00

Note: My friends John and Caroline Charnley are currently cruising aboard Discovery Magic, their 50 catamaran. They're also English, so, they don't have any restrictions when it comes to cruising in Cuba, and they've graciously agreed to provide this in-depth account of their visit for us US residents who are so close, yet so far, from Cuba's shores. And let this be an open invite to any potential guest bloggers out there. Share your stories with us!--Bill

Story and Photos by John and Caroline Charnley

We spent a week in Cuba: three days based in Marina Hemingway, whilst we visited Havana and some of the west of Cuba; and the rest of the time sailing the 300 nautical miles around the coast to Cayos Largo on the south coast, where we could check out in order to head to Grand Cayman. Cuba is poor, basic and struggling. Yet is has great wealth in its colonial ancestry and its history. The people are in awe of Fidel Castro, respectful of Raoul, accepting of their lot, and apprehensive of change. They are open and charming, yet strangely have little interest in (or perhaps don’t feel that they should be asking about) the lives of those who visit their country.

Having been told how poor and run-down Cuba was, we was taken aback as we travelled the ten miles in to the city of Havana: not by the fact that the country is obviously struggling from the years of economic hardship, but by the scale and opulence of its past.

Now used as embassies and business bases, the grand houses of what had been the wealthy Miramar district have retained their ornate facades, sweeping stairways, - some with ornate wrought-iron entrances to once-formal gardens. Today the avenue into the city is still elegant with Royal Palms standing erect and high above the neatly manicured area that divides the two highways. It is used both as a fitness track and a means to walk in to town.

We hadn’t appreciated that the Plaza de la Revolucion, where Castro famously made rallying speeches to the masses that crammed this vast area, was planned under Batista. Now, not only does it give homage to Castro and Che Guevara, with their images each adorning the side of an eight-storey building, but it also has a dramatic tower that is a memorial to Jose Marti. He is seen as a father figure in the liberation from the Spanish in 1878. We enjoyed both the museum dedicated to him and the panoramic city view from the top of the tower.

Being driven past a sea of tower-blocks, a huge Italianate church – forlorn with boarded windows and a forest of flag poles that once marked the US embassy, we came to the Malecon.. (If I knew where it was on the keyboard I would have put a cedilla under the ‘c’.) This is a four mile seafront promenade, flanked by faded-pastel buildings of arches and balconies. Many of these are empty-shells or even just the front facade shored-up, but some are being restored and new uses found for them. One can’t help wondering about the fate of the many similar buildings that stretch back from the seafront, street by street. Oh for some investment and a little imagination!

As you come to Centro Havana, so you travel back in time to a European city of the early 20th Century. The neo-classical Capitol building, set in Parque Central, and the Gran Teatro, with its elaborate curved balconies, are just two of the manifestations of affluence that was lavished on this city from the 1800s to the 1920s. Other buildings show the hallmarks of upmarket shops and gracious living that was once Havana. Although a lot of the buildings are languishing, we were encouraged in seeing what a difference the restoration work was making to the Opera House (built 1837) and ballet school: for instance, craftsmen are working on the lavish decorations of the vast ballroom, which can now be hired for private functions.

The ‘Old Havana’ district is all about life. With no traffic in this area, it’s a great place to have a Cuban coffee and just people-watch. This is the heart of the tourist area, with good reason. Open squares, narrow streets with arched colonnades and overhanging balconies of elegant ironwork; plus numerous possibilities to step through a doorway in to the shade of an intriguing courtyard……

American 1950s car are a quintessential image of Havana. Look at any street and you will see their curvy trunks and bonnets awkwardly protruding beyond the rest of the line. But for us tourists they are great! (The other great icon – the Cuban cigar – was rarely to be seen.)

Live music is everywhere: three men playing in the square, a whole band at the restaurant, someone practicing the violin in the shaded recess of an arched courtyard…. Dancing, too. It was great to get a glimpse of the practice session at the famous ballet school, but we were able to both to watch the diligence of a flamenco class and see its passion at a local restaurant. The arts are of the people and for them, not just for the tourists. Amazingly, the opera house has a different performance each week and for the Cubans the cost is about 30 cents.

Seen as an event of historical significance, the Pope visited Cuba in 1998. Until just before that time, the Cathedral de San Cristobal had been closed to all. Whilst this is a well-maintained place of worship, many buildings have crumpled faces of old age and bodies of neglect. But again, there is hope. The medical school that was part of the university and started in 1738 has been restored, as has the Plaza de Armas, with its Baroque buildings and colonial atmosphere. There is certainly a rich heritage that may yet survive the financial paucity and political stalemate of today. Religion currently appears to play little part in people’s lives.

Transport is a real issue. Our driver is the proud owner of a shiny Lada, lovingly maintained, washed everyday and home to a lot of Toyota parts to keep it going. He inherited it in 1987 from his father, who had been a government official and thus allowed to have a car. At least there are no traffic jams and it was novel to be able to walk across the ten-lane highway going through Plaza de la Revolucion with just a cursory glance in either direction. The transport issue is, of course, greatest in rural areas and small towns. It used to be that if there was someone wanting a lift you were obliged to give them a lift. This no longer seems to be the case and sometimes as many as twenty people would be waiting in the hope of a lift, seeking refuge from the intense heat in the shade of a bridge. Others ride pillion on bicycles, use a mule and cart, a tractor or peddle tricycle. The buses (often they were trucks) that we did see, were completely packed.

The only internet available is to tourist in some hotels. (Incidentally, it seems that it was only four or five years ago that Cubans were allowed to enter a hotel.) There are great shortages and even as a tourist you would be fortunate to find anything that could be described as a gastronomic delight. When offered a menu, most of the choice was unavailable and the six main dishes all have rice and beans as their main ingredient.

It seems that the rations people have are difficult to eek out and luxuries, including milk and beef, are very expensive and difficult to get. (On a wage of 45 CUC[$45US] plus some local pesos per month, milk is 1.86 CUC per quart.) All farm produce is handed over to the government, although on the main highway locals were holding out cheese, cooked chicken, even suckling pig, in the hope that a passing driver might stop. In Nueva Gerona, on the south coast, we saw people fishing by floating on rubber inner tubes, whilst others waded out with their nets: presumably they are allowed to keep what they catch.

Of the 11 million population, nearly 4 million live in Havana. Whilst we didn’t go to anyone’s home, we were told how cramped and basic accommodation is. Newly weds are almost certain to be living with older generations. The glimpse we had of some living areas was shocking, with the dingy ground floor of an old building housing several families in what were not more than shacks.
The export market for sugar cane collapsed in the ‘90s when perestroika changed Cuba’s trading relationship with the Soviet Union... The rick red soil of the flat plains to the west of Havana looked very fertile and again you are left wondering about the potential. If only ....

We didn’t have time to explore much the mountains, but they are lush with tropical vegetation. Some of the bigger limestone caves are a major tourist attraction, as is the Valley de Vinales. Here mogotes (gigantic karst formations) rise dramatically from the valley floor, which in itself is an attractive landscape of corn and tobacco fields.

As for the sailing? We only sailed the western half of Cuba. It is a long coastline with few harbours that one is allowed to stop and unless you tuck in close to the coast you are against the Gulf Stream. At each port there is lengthy paperwork for checking in and out. I am sure if you had time there are many lovely beaches to explore and certainly some amazing diving and snorkeling. (In one bay the 200m contour line of the sea bed cuts across the entrance to the harbour and then goes to just a few meters, providing a home to a stunning array of sea life.). We didn’t find it the sailing particularly pleasurable and we certainly felt solitary. John has already written about the political situation – which is fascinating. This country, however, is well worth a visit, but more so for the enquiring traveller rather than just a vacation destination.

First Look: Catalina 385

2012-01-23T10:05:00.002-05:00

It's good to see the folks at Catalina continue to launch new models like the 385 and it's obvious that Catalina's long-time designer Gerry Douglas knows what his customers want. He consistently delivers well thought out models like the 385 that invariably have the Catalina "look" while also improve on previous designs.

According to advanced reports, the 385 is the latest in the new line of Catalinas that began with the 445 and was followed by the 355. And it's east to see that the 385 uses the successful design features and proportions--moderate beam carried well aft for a spacious cockpit, modest freeboard for reduced windage, and an innovative interior--that all Catalinas have become known for.

Some of the 385's refinements include: a collision bulkhead aft of the anchor locker, contoured helm seating, molded instrument pods at the helm with convenient primary winches and a new backstay system. The mast support system features Catalina’s unique SecureSocket™ chain plates for superior load resolution. An optional asymmetrical spinnaker is optimized by a removable Selden bowsprit that can be stored in the anchor locker when not in use.

Below, Catalina uses teak and teak veneers for classic warmth, hand-finished with clear varnishes to preserve its natural beauty with less maintenance. A navigation desk with recessed laptop compartment has dedicated power ports. The custom Catalina electrical panel is neatly concealed behind a tinted acrylic door that allows for continual monitoring of power use, with a wiring system engineered for easy access.

The main cabin has generous seating with a custom folding table, and a port dinette that easily converts to a single berth. A linear cabinet has plenty of storage and maintains open site lines through the cabin. Polished handrails and fittings complement the teak interior cabinetry. The galley is optimized for convenience at sea or at the dock.

The owner’s cabin is forward with a custom, articulating innerspring mattress; an electrical lift is available for more comfortable reading or viewing TV. Guest accommodations are aft with a large double berth and storage lockers. A spa-style head and large shower complements its roomy interior.

According to Douglass Catalina’s philosophy is straightforward: Design boats that stand up to real world conditions and sail well. They must be comfortable above and below, easy to maintain and hold their value.

The 385 appears to do just that.

Christmas in the Caribbean

2012-01-06T21:58:00.004-05:00

Sunrise over the Tobago Cays was one of many high points on our Christmas cruise in the Windward Islands.

It may be only 8 degrees Fahrenheit as I type these words in front of the fireplace here in the northeast, but the cold is just a little bit easier to take considering the fact that we've just returned from 8 glorious days sailing with good friends John and Caroline Charnley aboard Discovery Magic, their 50-foot catamaran from Grenada up to St Lucia.

St. Lucia's Pitons provide a stunning backdrop to any Christmas cruise.

We even were able to avoid the whole Christmas industrial complex here in the states and celebrate Christmas morning anchored peacefully off Petit St. Vincent in the southern most point of the Grenadines. Ahhh, What's not to love about a Caribbean Christmas? We indulged in swimming off the sterns in warm blue water, and a walking on white sand beaches. Jack Frost was no where to be found and you know what? We didn't miss him at all. Our trip started by taking an island tour of Grenada on the day before Christmas.

Grenada

Our first stop was this fantastic waterfall-fed swimming hole that John is obviously enjoying. Grenada and the other Windward islands that form the southern end of the island chain are so much more lush than the Leeward islands to the north. Ample fresh water makes Grenada--The Spice Island--the ideal place to grow Nutmeg and other items.

There's something timeless about this shot.

I snapped this shot during our tour of a nutmeg processing house in the busy fishing village of Gouyave on the west coast of the island. A good chunk of the world's nutmeg still comes from Grenada even though production has decreased significantly in recent years due to many of the trees on the being damaged in hurricanes. It was a fascinating place that seemed to just breath history. We all could sense that the process of drying and getting the nutmeg ready to shipped all over the world had gone on unchanged for generations.

And then we went to the rum distillery that's literally been turning sugar cane into rum since 1783.

River Antoine Rum has been produced on this site since 1785.

Crazy to realize that sugar cane has been boiled in these vats to make rum since the late 1700's. But honestly, it looked (and smelled) exactly like that.

I thought rum distilling would have been, ummm, cleaner.

You could feel the history in this iron cane presser (powered by a water wheel, hence the "River Antoine" moniker) that'd been brought over on a British merchant ship in the late 1700's. And it's still in use today! Talk about built to last.

On our way back to the boat in St. Georges Harbour on the southern end of the island, we stopped in the rain forest where we met some friendly--hungry--monkeys. We didn't want to get to close, but Caroline was the bravest and offered up the bananas that our savvy driver picked up for us on the way.

These monkeys knew a good thing when they saw it. Our little friend here almost couldn't finish his banana and reminded Caroline a little bit of our cute cats back home.

We were tired and happy when we returned in time to celebrate a quiet Christmas Eve on the boat. John and Caroline investigated midnight mass in the Cathedral in St Georges while Caroline and I tried to catch up on sleep. We'd only been in the tropical heat for hours at that point, plus we wanted to be fully rested before heading out on the 30 mile trip north up to Petit St Vincent and Union Island in the Grenadines.

The Grenadines

I snapped this shot of our hosts John and Caroline as the sun set on a fantastic, Christmas day in the Tropics. After a rocking passage from Grenada, we settled right in to the anchorage off Petit St. Vincent. Ahhh, it felt so good to finally be swimming in the blue water off the back of the boat. We even made an amphibious landing on the beach as just let the gentle waves slowly wash the stress away. We were of early the next morning. Off to the Tobago Cays.

Tobago Cays

The Tobago Cays lived up to their reputation as one of the classic Caribbean anchorages. And while the crowd of boats that had the same idea of spending the holidays there that we did it didn't really bother me, I couldn't help but think that it'd probably be a bit more chill there as the season winds down. The boat boys were polite but man, they sure were persistent as well. But all in all--fabulous-- and what's not to love about surreally turquoise-blue water and an anchorage behind and ring of reef? It was a Joyuex Noel indeed. But we didn't dally for too long there. We had to cover some miles if we were to get to St Lucia (and John and Caroline were eventually going to meet up with other friends in Antigua, and other islands further north, and eventually be in Miami in February for the boat show) on time. So, poor us, we were off for the Mustique (the most exclusive island in the the Caribbean) in the morning.

Mustique gingerbread

After the more rough and tumble streets of Grenada and Union Islands, Mustique is almost too perfect. But can anything really be too perfect? We did a quick spin through "town" and shopped in the uber-exclusive shops pictured above, and went for a quick snorkel in the southern end of Britannia Bay before continuing our progress north to Sweet, Sweet Bequia.

My Caroline found some great local produce on the main drag in Bequia:

The fruit guys helped us feel so welcome.

While Captain John and Caroline were off to clear in at the Bequia customs office. It'd been two days since we left Grenada but e still had to clear into the country of St Vincent and the Grenadines.


Looks calm on the outside.......

But we weren't the only ones who were eager to take care of Customs formalities after the Christmas holidays.....


It was crowded, the line didn't move to fast, and ummm, there was no AC in there

Caroline and I definitely got the better duty in Bequia, and then we were off again to explore more of St Vincent. We happened upon this cool, little bay on St Vincent's southern tip. The perfect lunch spot and we had it all to ourselves.

The abandoned "Eco-Resort"among the palms on the beach and up the hill was "for sale" and we did ponder the possibility. It was truly a beautiful place with some fantastic snorkeling.

But we really wanted to get further north to be well poised for our passage over to St Lucia. And this is where we found an anchorage that had a distinct "South Pacific" feel. It's a small deep bay that required us to tie a stern line up to a palm tree on the beach. Of course the ubiquitous boat boys were there to help us get out line ashore.

Everything about this place--the light, the sounds of the birds and the peepers on shore, the clouds in the sky--was special. We'd have liked to spend a bit more time here but we were up and off by 0630 the next morning.

St Lucia


The Pitons make it really easy to make landfall in St Lucia. We saw these green skyscrapers from miles away.

We loved St Lucia. We grabbed a mooring at the base of the Petit Piton and luckily, Jason (pictured below) came to collect our fee to help protect the coral in the park.

It's over 100 feet deep at the base of the Piton. Mooring on a government maintained mooring made it easy.

The mooring feel was well worth it because the money goes to maintaining the moorings and protecting the coral, but more importantly, we met Jason. He not only sincerely welcomed us to St. Lucia, he picked us up after dinner and took us up to swim in the volcano on the back side of the Pitons. How cool it that? We were so grateful to get a decidedly non-tourist swim in the mineral-laden hot springs and we also learned all Jason and his family. It was fun and we made a friend. What a special night.

Here's John and Jason after our night time dip under the stars in the Volcano. What a wonderful host he was. We want to pay his kindness forward as soon as we can.


Marigot has fuel, provisions, wifi, several good restaurants and is also home to the Moorings charter base. And it was fitting that last boat boy visit was this guy. His boat was the smallest, he rowed instead of using an outboard, and he flew the Swiss flag. Priceless. We love the Windwards and we can't wait to go back.

And then sadly, we only had one night left. We were off to Marigot Bay. After pulling up to the fuel dock we got the boat settled back out into the anchorage the following evening. Then it was almost time to say goodbye to John and Caroline. They continued on up to Martinique while we sadly, had to return home to work and winter. But we know we'll be back. The Windwards are just too lush and sweet. I'm in love.

Catamaran Designer Chris White Rethinks the Catamaran Rig

2011-12-06T16:14:00.011-05:00

I've always been impressed with Chris White-designed catamarans. And now he's turned his attention to completely reinventing what a rig on an safe, speedy, and comfortable offshore-ready cruising catamaran can be. Check it out.
According to his website "The Chris White Designs MastFoil™ (patent pending) is a unique combination of modern rigid airfoil technology with proven soft sails. The basic concept is not new and you can see examples of large rigid wings and soft sails in the current America's Cup catamarans.

However, the main difference is that the MastFoil is a small part of the overall sail plan and can rotate 360 degrees around the load bearing mast which allows it to be feathered on any point of sail and in any wind velocity. Left alone, the foil will continuously feather if the control is set in that mode. Without this critical ability to feather on any heading, a rigid airfoil would typically not be suitable for use on a cruising boat. Another important difference is that the foil does not carry any of the mast compression loads. This enables the foil to be lightweight, structurally simple and rotate easily around the mast.

According to White, the mainsail, particularly the large roached, full battened mainsail combined with the aft-led-shroud, no-backstay-configuration that is used in most catamarans today, is by far the most troublesome sail to hoist, reef/unreef, furl and cover. In addition, mainsails create significant safety liabilities because they cannot be easily or quickly reefed or furled when sailing downwind. In violent squalls this feature has caused more than a few capsizes. The conventional catamaran mainsail can also be somewhat risky to gybe in a blow.

So he's replaced the mainsail with two, rotating wing masts that provide some pretty impressive benefits including:

The soft sails can be reefed and furled on any point of sail and in any wind velocity.
Simple and quick self tacking.
Super safe and effortless gybing.
The MastFoils add considerable drive to the sail plan despite their modest size. In stronger winds the MastFoils alone will provide enough power to sail in any direction.
The MastFoils are excellent storm sails. They create powerful drive, but minimal heeling forces because of their size and aspect ratio. The MastFoils are quiet, never flog, have very low "sheet" loads, and they can be trimmed for efficient operation in any wind direction.
The MastFoils can be easily feathered into the wind on any point of sail which makes them nearly "invisible" to the wind.

As you can see this is a pretty well thought out idea. And Chris has even told me that he has some unedited video of a prototype. I haven't seen any video yet. I'll post a clip as soon as I do. In the meantime, click here for more information.

Moody 45DS: Test Sail

2011-11-04T10:42:00.003-04:00

Here's a quick preview of the Moody 45DS.

Love the wide cockpit and the dual helms.

The cool thing about this boat is that there are no steps down into the saloon. The interior and exterior spaces blend together just as they do on a catamaran.

The hard cockpit roof has an innovative retractable section but the visibility from the helm stations is affected.


The galley can either be placed up in the saloon or further down in the hull

The retractable swim platform is enormous. I'd love to hang out on this boat in the tropics.

The cockpit lockers are cavernous.

Island Packet 360

2011-10-26T08:21:00.002-04:00

According to advanced reports, Island Packet's designer and President Bob Johnson continues to do what he does best--design and build seakindly full keel cruisers. His latest is the new 36-foot Island Packet 360.

Down below it has two cabins with easily accessed large berths and generous stowage areas. The head compartment has separate entries from the saloon or the forward stateroom, a sink vanity, electric flush head, and dedicated shower area with seat. The main saloon is open, bright and, with the hinged bulkhead mounted table able to be quickly dropped or stowed. The large settee to port converts into a double berth and has two reclining and swiveling arm chairs to starboard (a settee is available in lieu of chairs for those preferring this arrangement). The galley features twin refrigeration compartments, either or both of which may be used as a freezer at the push of a button, a gas range, microwave oven, and generous storage areas above and below the counter.

Since all IP keels don't require interior access for keel bolt inspection or related keel attachment maintenance and repair issues, all tankage on the 360 can be centrally located below the cabin sole in single large tanks, significantly increasing available stowage elsewhere in the yacht, minimizing trim changes with varying tank levels and lowering the center of gravity for improved stability. Eleven opening ports, numerous deck hatches and two Dorade vents keep the interior fresh and bright.

Gunboat 55

2011-10-25T12:04:00.002-04:00

Check out the new Gunboat 55 that's in the works.

Gunboat's are always aggressive. And the 55 is no different.

This latest model appears to be building upon the success of the Gunboat 48, but in fact, it seems even more aggressive if that's possible.

By the looks of it, the 55 appears to have one huge uninterrupted interior space from the mast to the aft crossbeam. For daysailing or cruising in warm weather, the aft end can remain open for the outdoor feel.

The best of both worlds in the open, yet protected cockpit.

In inclement weather, the aft end can be sealed up to create a cozy cocoon, albeit with Gunboat's unique 360 degree visibility. I like it.

It's all about speed.

According to advanced reports, the accomodations are restrained down below. There are simply two superyacht style cabins, one it each hull. Can't wait to see the real thing.

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 379

2011-10-24T11:59:00.008-04:00

The folks at Jeannueau continue to re imagine what a new--a really new--cruising boat should look like. Like the entire new wave of the Sun Odyssey line, the 379 has the hard chine aft, dual helms, and low slung good looks that have been quite popular at the fall boat shows. And it just goes to show that people will continue to buy new boats as long as they have features that are not available on the used boat market.

The Sun Odyssey 379 has great lines for a sub-40-footer.

And these days, there aren't any used boats that look quite like this out there.

It's designed for both comfort and style.

The interior is clean and modern.

Comfortable at port or as a sea berth.

The galley has quite a bit of stowage.

The head

The nav station is a bit small but that's okay given the chart plotter in the cockpit.

Length overall : 11.34 m / 37'

Hull length : 10.98 m / 36'

Hull beam : 3.76 m / 12'

Light displacement : 6700 kg / 14740 lbs

Standard keel draft : 1.5 m / 5'

Fuel capacity : 130 L / 34 US GAL

Water capacity : 200 L / 53 US GAL

Cabins : 3

Motor : Yanmar 29Hp / 21Kw

CE Category : A8 / B10 / C12

Designer/s : Marc Lombard - Jeanneau design

Total standard sail area : 70 m² / 753 sq ft

Helicopter Rescue

2011-10-19T11:01:00.001-04:00

It was a nasty night, 250 miles off the North Carolina coast, when pilot Lt. Cdr. Jay Balda and his Coast Guard helicopter rescue team responded to the Mayday call. A sailboat with a crew of five was taking on water, and its life raft had been swept off the deck in gale force winds and 20-to-30-foot seas. A helicopter rescue was the frightened crew’s only hope.

Balda faced a daunting task: fly into the gale, find the small boat, which was being blown downwind at 4 knots, deploy a rescue swimmer in monster seas, and then pull the crew (and the rescue swimmer) up to his helicopter using a thin wire cable. He got three guys out of the water before the violent winds of the storm caused the winch wire to chafe on the side of the helicopter and jam. Now Balda had a limited fuel supply, a rescue swimmer in the water, two more crew on the boat, and no way to retrieve them. All he could do was call for another helo, drop some life rafts, and head back to base. Meanwhile, the rescue swimmer was repeatedly washed out of his raft (he eventually tied himself in), started to suffer from hypothermia, and was blown more than 2 miles away from the sailboat. The second helo arrived over an hour later and pulled the severely hypothermic rescue swimmer and the rest of the sailboat crew to safety. Just another day at the office.

Lt. Cdr. Balda recounted this story matter-of-factly on the morning I joined him and his crew for a training exercise off Rockport, Massachusetts. I’d heard similar stories before but had never considered exactly what was involved in a helicopter rescue. I wouldn’t know what to do if I were the person being rescued. I was about to find out.

Helo-eye view
Rescue swimmer AST2 John Houlberg gave me a headset and strapped me into my safety harness; then our Sikorsky HH-60J Jayhawk helicopter took off. In minutes we were over the water, looking for the Pearson 28 that was serving as our vessel in distress. It was a bright, sunny day and this was only a drill, but Houlberg and colleague AST3 Zephyr Mays were getting ready to jump from the helo, swim to the Pearson, and organize the hoist just as they would in an actual emergency. Flight mechanic AMT1 Jack Hancock prepared the winch and the other gear he would need for the hoist and ran through the mission checklist with Balda via the headsets in their helmets. They all went about their
business with the confidence that comes from constant rigorous training and the quiet humility that comes from saving lives for a living. These guys operate helicopters in raging storms when lives are on the line. They don’t have to act tough—they are tough.

The first thing I noticed as we circled our predetermined rendezvous point with the sailboat was just how difficult it is to spot a boat on the water from the air—even on a calm, sunny day. Imagine how hard it would be to spot your boat at night in storm conditions. The lesson here—relaying your precise position to the Coast Guard—is critical when making a Mayday call.

Once we spotted the sailboat Balda briefed its crew via VHF about what was going to happen, and the boat was prepared for the helicopter’s arrival (see “Chopper Checklist”). Each rescue is different, but sailboats with masts and rigging swinging around on ocean swells can be particularly daunting to a helicopter crew. If a rotor clips the mast or the winch wire gets caught in the rigging, the helicopter and the lives of the rescuers—not to mention your own life—will be in jeopardy. A helicopter crew will try to hoist crew from the cockpit if possible, but often conditions dictate that the hoist must be from the water.

Since this was only a training exercise, the helicopter crew did not want to take unnecessary risks. We practiced water hoists. Hovering close to the sailboat, the helo whipped up a terrific racket and hurricane-force winds from its rotors. Taking care to keep the sailboat close but also out of the rotor wash, Balda descended to 10 feet. At that elevation Hancock gave the signal for the “victim” (Mays) and then the rescue swimmer (Houlberg) to jump. Orders for each maneuver were calmly relayed via headsets, and the helo gained elevation after each swimmer hit the water.

The team worked with the same cool efficiency during the hoist. With the helo hovering about 50 feet off the water, Hancock pushed the rescue basket out and lowered it to the water with the winch. Houlberg swam the “victim” back through the stinging 100-mile-an-hour rotor wash and helped him into the basket. Balda kept the helo in a steady hover as Hancock winched the basket up and pulled it into the cabin. Then they retrieved the rescue swimmer.

These guys made it look easy; they are highly skilled professionals trained to operate in the worst of worst-case scenarios. Balda has been flying helicopter rescue missions for 13 years and has pulled countless people out of life-ordeath situations. Houlberg and Mays have jumped into seas that would make the hair on the back of your neck stand on end, and Hancock is a 14-year veteran. It’s comforting to know guys like these will be there if you need them.

Chopper Checklist

If you ever need a helicopter rescue, you can count on the varsity team showing up overhead. But will you be ready? Here’s what you need to know. Rule one: Don’t panic. Chances are you’ll be both afraid and pumped up with adrenaline. You and/or your crew may be injured or seasick. It’s a chilling thought, but take the time to run over several rescue scenarios in your mind before you are ever in a rescue situation. Develop a rescue checklist that works for you. Laminate this (or a more personalized) checklist and keep it in an easy-to-reach spot. It’s important to have clear directions for emergency procedures even though you hope you’ll never need them.

Communication

● Issue a Mayday call to the Coast Guard on VHF channel 16 or SSB frequency 2182kHz (dialing 911 on a mobile phone is not the Coast Guard’s preferred means of communication). Speaking clearly, give the radio operator your vessel name, position, and description, including the number of crew aboard and nature of the problem. If you have a medical emergency, give a detailed description of the situation so the rescue team can bring appropriate medical equipment and personnel. Let them know if you are taking on water so they can bring pumps and life rafts.

● Assign a crewmember to monitor the radio and set up a communication schedule. A Coast Guard radio operator will help you calm your nerves, provide mission info, perhaps make first-aid recommendations, and give an estimate of how long it will take to get the helicopter to you.

● If you have a 406-MHz EPIRB on board, activate it and tell the radio operator you have done so.

Preparation

● If you are not wearing a PFD, put one on and instruct your crew to do the same. Put on survival suits if you have them.

● Lower and secure your sails. Make sure any roller-furled sails are securely cleated and lashed.

● Remove any deck gear—biminis, spray dodgers, unnecessary lines, fenders, cockpit cushions, even small things like hats— that could become projectiles and possibly damage a helicopter rotor.

● Remove anything that will hinder free movement in the cockpit, including fishing poles, barbecues, and manoverboard poles that could possibly catch the winch wire.

● Make sure any extraneous items on deck—a dinghy, windsurfer, bike, or life raft—are securely lashed.

● In most situations, the helicopter will approach your stern quarter on the port side so the pilot (who sits in the starboard seat) will have maximum visibility and the open helo door will face the boat. If you are trailing a dinghy, lash it out of the way along the starboard side using several bow and stern lines. Don’t expect to get into a dinghy trailing off the stern during a rescue. High winds created by the helicopter rotor wash will flip most dinghies easily.

● If your boat is taking on water, prepare to launch your life raft (if you have one) and make sure you have a well-stocked ditch bag and at least one hand-held VHF. Place flares in a dry, easily accessible place so you’ll be able to signal the helo when it

approaches.

● You’ll be informed if the rescue team is going for a cockpit or a water hoist. To facilitate a safe cockpit hoist, lash the boom away from the cockpit to starboard. If you can, release the port lifelines and lash them out of the way.

● Keep the injured/sick crew as comfortable as possible, but also make sure they are in the cockpit and ready to receive instructions as soon as the rescue swimmer arrives.

Execution

● Firing a flare—smoke in daylight, incendiary at night—can help the helicopter crew

pinpoint your location. Never fire a flare in the direction of the helicopter or shine a spotlight directly at the helicopter when it’s hovering close by.

● As the helicopter approaches, listen to the radio for instructions. The pilot may instruct you to slowly head 30 to 60 degrees off the wind on port tack, moving just fast enough to maintain steerage. This provides the helicopter maximum maneuverability and visibility.

● Once he reaches your boat, the rescue swimmer is boss. If a hoist from the cockpit is going to be attempted, he will come aboard and work with the helicopter crew to get the basket on board. He will secure the victim in the basket and signal the helicopter when it’s safe to hoist. If it’s a water hoist, he will swim you (with your back to the spray) through the rotor wash and put you in the basket.

● If it’s a medical emergency, tell the rescue swimmer and tag the patient with a written note outlining the nature of the problem, medication given, plus any other information that could assist a doctor.

● When the rescue swimmer gives the signal, you may be asked to help guide the basket away from the boat. Do not grab and hold on to the basket as it’s being hoisted, and never—repeat, never—attach the winch wire or the basket to the boat.

● When riding in the basket, never put your hands, feet, or head outside of the basket. Make sure you hold on tightly with your hands inside the basket.

● Riding in a basket that is winched up to a hovering helicopter on a thin cable in a storm can be a terrifying experience, but it’s important to remain calm. Never lunge for the door as the basket approaches the helicopter. Let the crew pull the entire basket into the helicopter cabin. The flight mechanic will tell you when it’s safe to get out.

New Photos of Joshua Slocum Uncovered in an Old Photo Album

2011-10-19T11:01:00.000-04:00

My wife’s grandmother Virginia was over 90 years old when she pulled a yellowed envelope containing four film negatives out of one of her many photo albums. Like we’d done many times before, she was sharing the memories of her adventurous life captured in those albums, and I was always enthralled with the places she’d been and the people she’d met, but the writing on the envelope: “Slocum 1906,” gave me goose bumps.

“Oh my God,” I said as I held one of the negatives to the light. “These are photos of Joshua Slocum and Spray.” In my excitement I foolishly asked, “Did you meet Joshua Slocum when you were a kid?!”

“No,” she said, “I don’t think so (she hadn’t been born yet). But my father probably would have gone down to the pier to see what was going on.”

“Hmmmm,” I thought. “Did my wife’s great grandfather meet the very first cruiser and even take pictures in 1906?” It’s totally possible. Generations of Virginia’s family had spent summers in Hyannisport, Massachusetts, and the Hyannisport coastline and pier are easily identifiable in the shots, but that’s about all I could find out. Virginia understood my excitement and my journalistic desire to know more about these fantastic, perhaps historically significant photographs, but she had to admit: “I really don’t know who took those pictures.”

So, I had prints made from the negatives and did a little digging. I found the iconic images and drawings of Slocum and Spray online, but none that matched what we had. Ted Jones, the Commodore of the Joshua Slocum Society International, could not confirm that the photos had never been published before, but he did say that he’d never seen them before. Several other Slocum sources yielded similar answers. I can’t say for sure that this photo has “never been seen before,” but the fact that we found negatives rather than a collection of prints lead me to believe that it very well could be.

But as I continued to look for clues in the 100-year-old photos, I realized I was missing the point. For me, they are simply a gift that helps me remember my connection to my wife’s grandmother who I loved, and has since died, and to Slocum who inspired me to get in way over my head, and survive, during my adventurous youth. So, I hope these photos help the memory of Slocum come alive and inspires you to go on an adventure just as much as they do for me.

Awesome Amphibious Inflatable Boat

2011-10-19T10:59:00.000-04:00

As I learned during a pretty stormy day (and as you'll see in the video), the Sealegs 7.1 Meter amphibious RIB is not you're average RIB. It drew a crowd at the launch ramp when we simply drove into the water in Plymouth, Massachusetts, but we were the only boat out in the steep chop outside of the breakwater. Underway, it performed just like a RIB with a 165-horsepower outboard should and took the choppy conditions in stride. Driving out of the water (and on to the beach for that matter) was just as easy as driving in. Sure, this is not a RIB that'll take the place of your tender, but hey, when was the last time you drove your tender on land?

www.sealegs.com

Which Anchor Holds Best? 14 Anchors Are Put To The Test

2011-10-19T10:58:00.001-04:00

Which anchor is the best in all conditions? It’s really a simple question. We’ve put a man on the moon, and decoded the human genome, so surely someone has designed a foolproof anchor that sets quickly in all bottoms, steadfastly holds even in storm conditions, and reliably resets if the wind veers dramatically, while also being light enough for a couple to handle on a 35-40 foot boat, and easily to retrieve when the time comes to move to your next cruising destination. How hard could it be to design and build such a simple device? During this pretty scientific test, we put thousands of pounds of force on 14 different anchors to see how much they could hold. The results may surprise you.

After three days of testing 14 different anchors in three different locations off Santa Cruz, California, myself, Jeffery Moser from Power and Motor Yacht Magazine, Toby Hodges from Yachting Monthly Magazine, and Chuck Hawley and several of his colleagues from West Marine confirmed what we knew going into the test—the effectiveness of any anchor is highly dependent on a long list of variables. Some variables (scope, anchor design, and weight) can be controlled, others like bottom surface, wind and swell, can’t. We also knew the validity of our results depended on insuring all the variables (apart from the individual anchors) were kept as uniform as possible; each anchor was tested multiple time with identical scopes in identical conditions. We tested in three different locations--on the west and east sides of Santa Cruz’s wharf, and off New Brighton Beach near Capitola. Seas had just a hint of swell in all three locations and winds varied from flat calm and never got stronger than 12-knots. Bottom samples at each location were taken using a weighted dart-like core sampler revealed the composition of the top 5 inches of the bottom surface. All three locations had a layer of fine dark sand on top of harder, finer, clay-like sand. The New Brighton location appeared to have a thinner layer of sand and a harder layer of clay-like sand than the two wharf locations.

Objective
The goal of this test was to determine the performance characteristics of 14 separate anchors (on a hard sand bottom) that their manufacturers deemed suitable to be carried on a cruising sailboat in the 35-40 foot range. We judged performance on how quickly the anchor set, its holding power (determined by digital dynamometer attached to the rode and wired into a laptop computer that recorded the force on the rode every three seconds), and if it dragged (by using visual ranges and precise GPS measurements). Our primary test scope was 5:1 in roughly 20 feet of water but we also tested performance at 3:1 and 7:1 scopes.

We were most curious to learn the maximum holding power of each anchor that a cruiser on a 35-40 foot sailboat would actually use (in a specific test location and at a specific scope). The assembled anchors weighed roughly between 20 and 40 pounds. Many anchor tests in the past have been conducted with winches on shore or with boats that aren’t powerful enough to exert more than a 1,000 pounds of force on an anchor. As a result, lighter anchors must be used or an anchors holding ability (in some cases) can exceed a testers ability to pull it. The results of all these tests are extremely useful and contribute to the overall bank of anchor knowledge, but they can’t tell us which anchor can hold the most (in a specific location at a specific scope). We were able to exert up to 5,000 pounds on each anchor because we chartered the 52-foot, 92,000 pound research vessel @I{Shana Rae} to do the pulling. Equipped with powerful hydraulic winches, tk horsepower diesel engine, and tk diameter propeller, Captain Jim Christmann’s @I{Shana Rae} allowed us to put more force on each anchor that it would ever experience in “normal conditions”, but we were looking for the anchor that could perform well above “normal conditions” when anchor performance is most critical.

Testing procedure
During the course of assembling the anchors for the test, some manufacturers were a bit skeptical. They wanted to be sure that the test was going to be unbiased and that each anchor would be tested in the same conditions. This was the guiding principle of the test and we informed each manufacturer of our testing methodology prior to the test. No manufacturers representative was present during the testing. West Marine VP of Product Development, Chuck Hawley, and his colleagues from West Marine have vast experience conducting countless anchor tests over the years (they test each anchor design before West agrees to carry it in its stores), but never one that could show maximum holding power on anchors weighing between 20 and 40 lbs. West Marine sells roughly half the anchors we tested.

We made the testing procedure as uniform and scientific as possible. Each anchor was pulled on the same rode (20 feet of 5/8ths chain with the remainder 1 inch nylon rope) at least 3 times at 5:1 scope. We moved the test boat over (confirming our new location with the GPS) before each new pull to insure the anchor had a chance to set in a fresh sea bed, and instead of testing each anchor three times in succession, we pulled the first anchor, weighed it, moved the boat, set the second anchor, weighed it, an so on, to make absolutely sure that no one anchor would have the benefit of a specific area of the bottom. We also tested the anchors at 3:1 scope, 7:1 scope, and separately tested what happened when we veered sharply on the anchors. Scope was determined by the Shauna Rae’s depth finder and confirmed by a manual plumb bob. Using the @I{Shana Rae’s} hydraulics eased this job tremendously, but after humping anchors for three days at three different locations and well over 100 pulls, we had some sore muscles. We also pulled each anchor in wet sand on the beach with a boat close to shore. This was not to test holding power, but rather so we could easily see the characteristics of how each anchor set.

Each test was conducted the same way. The anchor was attached to the rode and then dropped over the side. The rode was attached to the dynamometer that was wired to a PC that recorded the strain on the gauge every three seconds. The boat idled forward until the appropriate scope payed out and the anchor had set. Once a set was confirmed, engine revs were slowly increased until the anchor dragged, released, or reached 5,000 pounds. Observations like “holds up to 2,000 ponds then drags slowly” or “seems to skip along the bottom” were recorded for each pull, and then the whole process was repeated with the next anchor.

Data and analysis
The digital dynamometer’s readings were recorded automatically every three seconds. Not only were we able to record the maximum force exerted on the anchor, we also were able to graph how increased force affected the anchor and incorporate highly accurate time and GPS data to show an anchor dragging with the data as well as with visual range marking. Thanks to Phil Cowley of West Marine who provided the dynamometer as well as the software expertise to put all the data into the computer, this process virtually eliminated the potential errors that could arise from physically jotting down readings of over 100 pulls at different scopes. Needless to say we got pretty good at the whole testing process and ended up with a wealth of extremely accurate data. Dinner after each day of testing was consumed with debriefing the days results. Everything from bottom sampling, hydraulic crane operation, to each anchors performance or surprising lack of performance was dissected. Then when we were all back in our respective offices, each anchor’s performance was discussed again via a conference call to confirm our analysis. Here’s what we found.

The Results

Bullwagga

The concept behind the Bullwagga is fairly straightforward. Its three high surface area flukes are designed to insure that two flukes will always be properly oriented to dig in no matter how the anchor comes to rest on the bottom. The shank fits loosely in the center of the anchor to help keep uniform force on the two flukes as they dig in. For all of our test pulls the Bullwagga set quickly and held a maximum of 2,974 pounds of force before releasing abruptly rather than dragging. Test results show this anchor should be able to handle the force a 35-40 foot boat can exert on an anchor, as long as you have a minimum of 5:1 scope, performance dropped off dramatically at 3:1. Overall the results for the Bullwagga were good, but good luck trying to get it to set on your bow roller, and good luck trying to store it in a locker. Its unconventional shape makes it difficult to fit on a bow roller when not in use and it can’t be taken apart to be stored easily down below. That said, it comes as close as “throw it overboard it’s sure to catch something” as any of the anchors we tested, and could be a useful back-up/kedge anchor provided you have considerable extra stowage space.

Claw

The Claw is Lewmar’s version of a Bruce-type anchor that cruisers have been using for years. It stows easily on the bow in roller when not it use, it’s one piece construction is super-strong, and it’s reportedly designed to be effective in a variety of seabeds. Some cruisers may say this style of anchor has a reputation for not being as effective in mud and soft sand, but we were not testing in mud or soft sand. However, our test results came as a bit of a surprise--the maximum force we recorded with 5:1 scope was 886 pounds. And that was only a short spike before the anchor released completely. During most of the 5:1 pulls, it seemed to set and release rapidly without ever really digging in. One pull showed it was slowly dragging at about 300 pounds of force, but never really enough to say the anchor has set with any certainty. We recorded similar results at 7:1 scope. A possible hypothesis among the group was that the Claw’s flukes were simply not sharp enough to penetrate the harder clay-like sand. The beach pull was also telling in that the claw dug a much longer trench than other anchors that produced better results during the holding power pulls.

www.lewmar.com

CQR

The CQR is another tried-and-true anchor that returned surprising results. The maximum force we recorded during our first three pulls at 5:1 scope was a very short spike up to 350 pounds, but most of the time, all we were recording was the load created by pulling the anchor and rode unencumbered along the bottom. During those pulls we never felt the anchor set. No matter how slowly we went, or how we tried to manually coax the anchor to set, it just seemed to skip along the surface of the bottom. The anchor did briefly hold over 2,000 pounds of force on pull four, west of the wharf, but those first three pulls did not inspire confidence and we were not able to replicate the results of pull four even when the rode was increased to 7:1 scope. It’s relatively sharp point looked capable of penetrating the layers of sand, but it appears something kept its point from digging in except when we got that 2,000 pound reading. Like the Claw, the CQR has been around for years and also dug a considerable trench on the beach.
www.lewmar.com

Delta

The Delta is a one-piece, plow-type anchor with high surface area flukes. It was one of several anchors that held substantial force on multiple pulls east of the wharf. On one 5:1 pull, it set quickly and held firm up to 5,000 pounds. During two other 5:1 pulls, it held to a max of about 3,500 pounds, then slowly dragged (holding 3,500 pounds) for about 600 feet until releasing. Performance results dropped off considerably at the other locations. It appears the Delta’s angled fixed shank, relatively sharp point, and high surface area flukes helped it set quickly and hold (up to a point) as long as the scope was at least 5:1. Performance declined sharply at 3:1. The beach pull confirmed that the anchor set and dug in almost immediately rather than plowing a long trench.
www.lewmar.com

Fortress

The Fortress was one of several anchors we tested that consistently set quickly and held to 5,000 pounds on multiple sets in multiple locations. It’s sharp, high surface area flukes dug in immediately. As we increased the loads and the rode became bow-string tight, the boat shuddered and kicked out impressive turbulence from the stern but the boat didn’t move an inch. Weighing only 22 pounds, the Fortress was also one of the lightest anchors we tested and it was also the easiest to stow (it can be broken down and fit into a slim storage bag). It also held over 5,000 pounds at 3:1 scope as well. By combining light weight, quick set and retrieval ability, enormous holding power at a variety of scopes, and easy stowability, the Fortress ranked high among all the anchors we tested. However, we did bend a fluke slightly during our veering test. This was while the anchor was under considerable load so it would be unfair to say anything other than it withstood a tremendous amount of abuse and still functioned properly. The Fortress’s biggest drawback may be that it could be difficult (but not impossible) to secure it unobtrusively on a bow roller when not in use.
www.fortressanchors.com

Hydrobubble

When placed alongside all the anchors in our test, the Hydrobubble didn’t get much respect—until it started reeling off 5,000 pound pulls. The minimal buoyancy of the bubble helps the anchor orient its heavy stainless-steel blade so it’s always positioned to dig in at the optimal angle. Quick sets and multiple 5,000 pound pulls at 5:1 scope prove it worked beautifully every time. What’s most curious about the Hydrobubble is the shape of its blade. Instead of flukes that are shaped somewhat like an airplane wing with it’s flaps up (similar to the Delta and CQR), the blade of the Hydrobubble forms an upside-down V. It seems the pulling forces of the shank drive the flat V-shaped blade deeper into the bottom rather than using a more conventional plow-type resistance. This could help explain how it penetrated the hard bottom even though the point wasn’t exceptionally sharp. This anchor exceeded our capacity to exert force on it, and I was still able to take it apart and bring it back from California in my luggage. It may look unconventional, but the anchor with the effervescent name may represent a new and effective way to anchor a boat.

Manson Supreme

The Manson Supreme is one of several newer generation anchors we tested that combine a rigid shank, sharp point, scoop-like (rather than a plow-type) blade, and a roll bar that insures the anchor is always properly oriented on the sea bed. It was also one of the anchors that set quickly and produced multiple 5,000 pound pulls at 5:1 scope east of wharf. Results from the other locations were less but still substantial, consistently topping out at 2,500 pounds before releasing. The Manson was one of the better performers at all locations and it was also able to withstand 5,000 pounds at 3:1 scope. On the beach, it dug in without dragging and it’s shape appears able to fit into most bow rollers but it would protrude more than a claw or a CQR and its roll bar could possibly interfere with some bow pulpits. It was one of the top rated anchors we tested however it’s very similar in design to the Rocna. Rocna’s manufacturer contends the Manson infringes on their patent.
www.manson-marine.co.nz

Oceane

The most obvious difference between the Oceane and the other one-piece, plow/scoop type anchors we tested is how it’s C-shaped shank attaches right at the front of the scoop close to the point. Our on-the beach observations showed the Oceane pivoted quickly on it’s sharp point and the C-shaped shank did a good job of converting the lateral force of the rode into downward/digging force on the scoop. However the Oceane did not produce consistent results during our load tests. East of the wharf, and at New Brighton, the Oceanne failed to set after multiple attempts at both 5:1 and 7:1 scopes. However, west of the wharf, it set immediately recorded multiple maximum pulls. None of the other anchors we tested had such profoundly different results between venues and the reason for those results is not readily apparent. The Oceane’s unique shape also make it very difficult to stow on a bow roller.

West Marine Performance 20

The Performance 20 is a danforth-stye anchor marketed by West Marine, so when we consistently (and curiously) we’re unable to get the anchor to set at a variety of scopes and locations, there was considerable scratching of heads among the West Marine contingent. For the majority of pulls at increasingly longer scopes, the anchor seemed to set and release quickly, or to just skip along the bottom. Several pulls showed brief spikes up to about 700 pounds and then quickly released. It also briefly held 1,500 pounds at 5:1 before slowly dragging an releasing off New Brighton. But that was only one pull of many, and hardly enough to show the anchor capable of holding anything similar to that number with regularity. The Fortress showed how effective a danforth-type anchor could be, so the only explanation the team could postulate was that the particular anchor we tested didn’t have sharp enough flukes to penetrate the hard, clay-like sand.

www.westmarine.com

Rocna

The Manson is very similar in design to the Rocna, but the Rocna yielded slightly better results. Both withstood maximum pulls east of the wharf and had similar holding power at both 5:1 and 3:1 scopes; the Rocna held slightly more at the other two locations before dragging and releasing. Like the Manson, the Rocna’s sharp point/roll bar was one of the better performing designs we tested, but it also has similar potential draw backs such as how much it could protrude on a bow roller and potential pulpit restrictions. Unlike the Manson, the Rocna’s blade was more angular and fitted with slightly upturned flaps at the back and it’s shank was slightly longer. These subtle differences could provide a possible explanation for the Rocna’s slightly better test results.
www.rocna.com

Sarca Anchorlight

The Sarca was unlike any of the other anchors we tested. It consists of a high surface area triangular blade, a pronounced roll bar, and a hollowed out shank that allows the shackle to side forward when it comes time to retrieve. It’s sharp point (it could cut you if you weren’t careful) appeared well suited to penetrating the hard sand and that proved to be true. On every 5:1 pull at all three locations it set quickly, but never recorded holding power over 3,000 pounds. The data shows it consistently held between 1,500 and 3,000 pounds before dragging and releasing. Similar numbers were recorded after the 3:1 pull. The anchor’s setting consistency deserves a high rating but several other anchors we tested set with similar consistency and held considerable more load and the Sarca’s bulky design could be troublesome on a bow roller.
www.anchorright.com.au/

Spade

With the likes of tried-and-true designs like the bruce-style Claw, CQR, and the danforth-style Performance 20 not producing stellar results, we weren’t sure what to expect from the ol’ spade. It turned out to be one of the best performing anchors at 5:1 scope. Multiple pulls at both wharf locations returned 5,000 pound load readings that our slightly punchy test team started calling “full pulls”. It’s simple weighted point and medium surface area blade easily penetrated and held without dragging. Results fell off dramatically however at 3:1 scope and at the New Brighton location. Our beach pulls illustrate why the spade was so successful. The heavily weighted point immediately dug in and nearly buried not only the blade, but the shank as well.

www.spadeanchorusa.com/

Wasi

The stainless steel Wasi has a roll bar like some of the other anchors we tested but its blade and shank design are quite unique. The blade consists of a flat, heavy triangle and the shank angle is much more pronounced than any of the other anchors have. This angle appears to provide the required downward force required to propel the flat blade down into the bottom and test results show it works. The wasi set quickly at 5:1, held to 3,000 pounds and dragged before releasing when the load topped 4,000 pounds. Results were similar at 3:1.
www.swisstech-america.com

XYZ

The XYZ anchor was by far the most innovative design we tested. Weighing in at only 13 pounds (but still suitable for a 35-40 foot boat according to its manufacturer) its holding ability depends solely on how well it can dig into the bottom. It’s blade looks like a stealth bomber wing, and its curved shank attaches near the sharp point on the front. The shank is also equipped with a knob that insures the XYZ will flip over if it land upside down on the bottom. On the beach it flipped over and dug a long trench in the wet sand. However, no matter how hard we tried, we could not get the XYZ to set in any of our tests. We recorded interment readings that maxed out at about 300 pounds, but we were never able to get a legitimate set at any location and at any scope. It seemed that the blade just skipped along the bottom.

Conclusion
After 3 full days, over 100 test pulls, and countless hours crunching numbers and analyzing data, we learned a great deal about all the anchors we tested and about the challenges of anchor testing. Having several anchors with established reputations fail to set sparked many hours of debate. We questioned our methodology and tried to determine what could be done to insure that all anchors could at least return some results apart from “did not set”. Like psudo-scientists we had hypothesized about which anchor would perform the best before the test and then proved (or disproved) those thoughts with scientific experimentation. In the end, we concluded that each anchor was treated exactly the same and the fact that some preformed better than others was simply the results we came up with on those three days of testing. The boat, rode, scopes, locations, and testing methodology did not change. Each anchor was tested in the same conditions and the results were simply recorded and analyzed. The anchors that returned poor results in our test may produce better results in different conditions. Many anchors are never called upon to withstand loads over several thousand pounds, but wouldn’t you feel safer and sleep easier knowing that the only thing keeping your boat from drifting up on the rocks in a distant anchorage will stay set even if 5,000 pounds of force (like a storm) is applied?

By learning which anchors set most consistently and had the highest holding power (in our specific test) we hope to shed some light and dispel some myths about how these 14 anchors can perform in test conditions. They ended up in three distinct groups:

Excellent (these anchors consistently held to or close to 5,000 pounds at several different locations and scopes and could also be stowed easily on a bow roller or in a locker)
Fortress
Manson
Hydrobubble
Rocna
Spade

Good (these anchors set held over 1000 pounds)
Bullwagga
Delta
Oceane
Sarca
Wasi

Poor (these anchors failed to produce quantifiable results)
Claw
CQR
West Marine Performance 20
XYZ

Everything you need to know about VHF radios (but were afraid to ask)

2011-10-19T10:58:00.000-04:00

When it comes to communicating on a marine VHF (very high frequency) radio, there are no “Good buddies”, and no “Breaker 1-9s”. Smokey and the Bandit movies may have made CB radio jargon hip for a time, but a marine VHF is defiantly not a CB radio. It’s a serious piece of safety equipment that’s regulated by the FCC and the US Coast Guard. When used properly, it provides a critical communication link to potential rescuers in an emergency, access to NOAA weather forecasts, navigation alerts, and notices to mariners. It can also be used to hail a bridge tender on the ICW, communicate with passing ships, and even to invite the crew of a neighboring boat in an anchorage over for sundowners.

Only boats over 62 feet are required to carry a VHF, but it’s prudent to carry one no matter what size boat. And no, carrying a cell phone is not a suitable alternative to VHF. Cell phones have limitations (range and power) that VHF radios do not. Of course the Coast Guard will answer distress calls made on a cell phone, but prefers to receive coastal distress calls via VHF.

The following is a primer on most VHF features and how to use them, proper distress call technique, picking up weather forecasts, and generally how to navigate the VHF radio waves. But before we begin, there are several things to remember. First, VHF radios are toys. Don’t talk like a trucker on a CB, don’t clog important channels with idle chatter, and NEVER, NEVER make a false Mayday call. You can be prosecuted and be potentially putting lives at risk. Second, always monitor channel 16. If you receive a distress call, record it and your position in your log, and be prepared to render assistance if possible. Third, when sending a message make sure to press the handset’s trigger, speak into the microphone, speak slowly, and clearly. Use the phonetic alphabet to spell important information out and always confirm a received message. Also, always wait to attempt to hail another user until the hailing channel is inactive. Breaking into an active radio transmission is bad VHF etiquette at best and could possibly put lives in danger at worst. When hailing another boat, establish contact then quickly switch to an established working channel. Never use profanity, always make transmissions using minimum power, keep conversations as brief as possible, and remember that most VHF calls are audible to any radio in range that is monitoring your channel, so watch what you say. You never really know who’s listening. Make sure you and your radio’s FCC licenses are up to date, and last but not least. Never say “Over and Out” at the end of a transmission. “Over” means you are done speaking. “Out” means your done transmitting. When you’ve completed your conversation just say “Out.” Same holds true for “Roger, Wilco”. Nothing says “VHF rookie” like “Roger, Wilco” followed by “Over and Out”.

VHF Overview

Many of us can stumble through a VHF transmission, but who is willing to admit they don’t know what all those other buttons and knobs do? Now you’ll know.

Knobs

1.Power/volume control

2. Squelch control—squelch control sets the point at which random noise on the channel does not activate the audio circuits but a received signal does. It should be set (by turning the knob clockwise) to just below the point where the radio’s background noise (static) is inaudible

3. Channel selector—a knob or button that’s used to select channels and choose menu items such as DSC and radio setup. This selector can also be used to confirm memory channels.

Buttons

4. 16/9—A quick press of this button immediately recalls channel 16 from any channel. Holding the button down tunes the radio to channel 9. Pressing the button again returns the radio to the channel you were monitoring

5. WX—A quick press of this button immediately recalls a selected NOAA weather channel from any channel. On many radios, holding the 16/9 key while pressing the WX key changes the radio from USA, International, and Canadian channel groups. Switching channel groups is required for the best reception when the boat moves from one region into another.

6. PA/Fog—Pressing this button activates the radio’s PA and fog horn functions

7. Scan/Mem—Pressing this button scans programmed channels. To program a channel, select the channel you want to save, and hold the button until MEM appears in the display

8. DW/IC (dual watch/intercom)—Pressing this key allows for a dual watch between a priority channel (CH 16 is the default) and a selected channel until a signal is received. Holding this key activates the intercom feature (between the radio and optional handset) on some radios

9. H/L (NAV)—Press this button to toggle the transmit output power between 25 watts (High) and 1 watt (Low). High power has the greatest range. Low conserves power while still being able to communicate with radios in the immediate vicinity

10. Call/Menu—Often the key that is used to access the DSC menu where you can toggle through “individual call”, “group call”, and “all ships call” functions

11. Ent—Pressing this key enters a chosen menu selection

12. Clr—Cancels a chosen menu selection

13 Distress—Lift the protective plastic cover and press this button to send a DSC distress call

Handset

1. PTT (Push-to-talk) trigger—Keys the transmitter when the transceiver is in radio mode. If the transceiver is in intercom or PA mode, it activates the intercom between the radio and the handset

2. Mic—The microphone that transmits voice messages with a reduction in background noise. Speak into it from about ½ inch away for best performance

3. Up/Down arrows—Allow for channel selection from the handset

4. 16/9—The same function as the 16/9 key on the radio

Hailing and communicating with another boat (or radio user)

Correct hailing procedure is to state the name boat you are hailing (usually on channel 16), then the name of your boat followed by “over”. Over tells the other party you are done speaking. This is important because if both radio operators push their mikes at the same time, neither will be heard. Only one party may speak at a time. Any other words like “yoo hoo” and “Is anybody out there?” is incorrect procedure. Once you’ve established contact, switch to a working channel. Once you’ve switched to a working channel say the name of the boat you are hailing followed by name of your boat. At the end of your conversation say your boat name, “Out” or “Out, your boat name back to 16”.

Distress calls

Mayday: Is a request for immediate assistance due to an “imminent” life threatening situation. If you hear a mayday call, listen, do not transmit. Determine if you are in a position to assist. If not maintain radio silence.

Pan-Pan: Announces an emergency when the safety of a boat and/or persons are in jeopardy but not in “imminent” danger. Man overboard calls are sent with the Pan-Pan signal. As with a Mayday call, listen to the Pan-Pan, determine if you are in a position to assist, and keep radio silence if not.

Securite: Is the signal that navigation information or weather warnings will be broadcast

Making a Mayday call

If you find yourself in an imminent life threatening situation make sure the radio is tuned to channel 16 and make the following radio transmission. Try not to panic and speak clearly.

1. Press the mike and say “Mayday, Mayday, Mayday. This is (name of your boat repeated three times).

2. Repeat Mayday (this is boat name) one more time.

3. Report position as accurately as possible

4. Report nature of emergency

5. Report kind of assistance desired

6. Report number of people aboard and condition of any injured

7. Describe the boat (length, design color, distinguishing marks) and its seaworthiness. Total message should not exceed 1 minute.

8. Wait for response. If there is none repeat the message. If still no response, try another channel

Substitute “Pan-Pan” for Mayday in an emergency where there is no imminent danger to the boat or persons on board.

Digital selective Calling (DSC)

DSC is a semi-automated method of establishing a radio call simply by pushing the “Distress” button. When the DSC button is activated, the radio automatically sends a distress call with GPS position (when a GPS is connected to the transceiver), and the nature of the distress to the Coast Guard and other vessels within range of the transmission. It also scans the appropriate channels for a response. DSC also allows users to immediately receive distress, urgent, safety, routine, position requests, and group calls from other DSC equipped transceivers within range. Every radio equipped with DSC has a Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI) number assigned to it. A radio’s MMSI is a unique 9 digit number (similar to a telephone number) that must be programmed into the radio to operate the DSC functions.

To make a DSC distress call:

1. Lift the protective cover over the “Distress” button, press and hold it until the radio’s display shows that the call has been sent.

2. Once the message has been sent, the transceiver will sound an audible distress alarm

3. The transceiver will automatically monitor Ch 70 for a DSC acknowledgement and also receive calls on Ch 16.

4. If no DSC acknowledgement is received, the transceiver repeats the distress call at 4 minute intervals until acknowledgement is received.

5. When the DSC acknowledgement signal is received, an alarm sounds, channel 16 is automatically selected, and the radio’s LCD screen shows the MMSI of the responding transceiver. Once contact has be established

6. If the “Distress” button was pushed in error, many radio’s will cancel a distress call when the Clr then Ent buttons are pushed

Phonetic Alphabet

Clear communication is critical when sending emergency VHF messages. To avoid any confusion use the phonetic alphabet to spell out important information such as your boat name and the names of your crew. Below is the Nato/International phonetic alphabet

A alpha

B bravo

C charlie

D delta

E echo

F foxtrot

G golf

H hotel

I India

J Juliet

K kilo

L lima

M mike

N November

O oscar

P papa

Q quebec

R romeo

S sierra

T tango

U uniform

V victor

W wiskey

X x-ray

Y yankee

Z zulu

Important channels

Channel 16

This is the distress, safety, and calling (hailing) frequency the US Coast Guard monitors continuously. All vessels equipped with a VHF must monitor Ch 16 and be prepared to assist in an emergency.

Channel 22a

This is the primary working channel the Coast Guard uses for communications with the boating public where severe weather warnings, hazards to navigation, and other maritime warnings are broadcast

Channel 13

This is the navigation/piloting channel. Locks and bridges monitor 13 and it must be used for navigation and piloting purposes only

Channel 6

This is the ship-to-ship frequency used for safety related communications

Channels 9,68,69, 71,72,78

These are the common working channels for boaters. Switch to one of these general use channels once you’ve established contact on 16

Weather Routing: What happens when your weather window slams shut?

2011-10-19T10:57:00.000-04:00

We weren’t expecting what was waiting for us. The warmth of the sunrise, a slowly building northerly breeze, and some of the strongest coffee on the planet encouraged us to work the foredeck a bit and get code zero flying. The big headsail was drawing beautifully, the familiar drone of engine finally became pleasantly silent, the digital speed read outs were stuck on 9 knots, and the miles were ticking off just as easy as you please. This was exactly how the professional weather routing service that developed our personalized weather forecast for the passage said our weather window would look--ideal in real time just as it was on paper. But things were about to change for the worse.

We were rocking along the rhum line aboard Cuyler Morris’s Morris 45 Firefly following the late fall escape route from Northeast Harbor, Maine, to Bermuda, and eventually on to Antigua. Cuyler is President of Morris Yachts and obviously a magician; he was bringing the boat south so he could spend the winter living and cruising in the Caribbean with his family. Myself, ex-pro sailor John Boone of Goertz Marine Technologies, and offshore newbie/chef James Lindquist went along for the ride.

It all started so peacefully.

The long range forecast the weather routers Cuyler used to determine our weather window called for northerlies from 9-to-16 knots all the way from Maine to the southern side of the Gulf Steam. There are countless stories of cruising boats getting pasted by northerlies in the Stream, but the light winds we saw were hardly enough to ruffle it. We’d been pleasantly motorsailing along for 2 and 1/2 days. Up to that point, the toughest challenges we’d faced were the bitter cold north of the stream, minimizing our exposure to adverse current in the stream (thanks to the Gulf Stream analysis provided in our forecast), and attempting to come down off the James’ coffee when it was time to go off watch. With the code0 set, and a dated long range forecast in the back of our minds, we’d wishfully imagined averaging 9 knots power reaching the last 250 miles into St Georges. Cue rude awakening.

Weather Window Slams Shut
The wind didn’t increase immediately. It was more like a pot that slowly came to a rolling boil. Over the course of the afternoon, true wind speeds inched into the high-teens (high 20’s apparent). We doused the code zero in favor of the full main and jib. As afternoon turned to evening, true winds in the high 20’s wound forward of the beam and had us tucking a reef in the main and rolling up some jib. All hands tucked another reef and rolled up more jib before the midnight watch when winds hit the high 30’s—true. Need I say the ride had become decidedly less placid than it had been?

So this is what fighting upwind in 40 knots looks like.

A distant low developing near the coast of Georgia was compressing the edge of the high we’d been sailing through and cranking up the wind. As the night wore on we were bashing into solid 40 knot headwinds with the gusts hitting 50. We’d fallen off the rhum to minimize the thrashing (and loosing VMG in the process), but still manage to land off a couple of waves jarringly, wake-up-the-off-watch, hard. Now we are forcing down water in conscious an effort to keep hydrated and protein drinks to help keep calories in our stomachs. Green waves periodically break on the pilothouse windows. The boat heels 35 degrees with hardly any sail up. Now just bracing yourself in the galley has turned into the most evil ab workout ever devised, everything from going to the bathroom to moving around is an ordeal, and working on deck is an exhausting adrenaline rush that most cruisers would rather avoid. The boat is up to the conditions and thankfully so is the autopilot. We’re just wet, cranky, fighting against sea sickness, and loosing sleep (not unheard of on an offshore passage). But how did it happen? How did the long range forecast differ so much from the weather actually we encountered?

Anatomy of a weather window
Professional weather routing services don’t create weather windows, they identify favorable weather patterns and routes (avoiding storms, headwinds, adverse current) that fit predetermined parameters of each individual boat they work with. Obviously a potential record breaking attempt will have a different set of parameters than a boat looking for an easy delivery, but in the end, when a forecast for the next 72 hours ahead calls for “winds N-NE from 6-16 knots” that means: According to all the available data and analysis, the probability is very high that the winds will be N-NE from 6-16 knots BUT due to the inherent volatility of the weather patterns (especially offshore and around the Gulf Stream as we learned first hand), this is subject to change.

No matter how sophisticated the weather prediction system, the possibility for a weather forecast to be “wrong” is directly related to how old the forecast is and how many hours (or days in the future) it’s attempting to predict. Any forecast but particularly those predicting more than 72 hours in advance are subject to (sometimes dramatic) change and must be constantly updated as time passes. That means any weather window (or forecast for that matter) can only really predict 72 hours in advance with any degree of certainty. Weather routers make long rage predictions and use that information to help determine the weather a cruiser will experience on passages longer than a three days, and can help boats dodge potential bad weather with updated forecasts once they’ve left port, as long as there’s an open line of communication.

In our case, we made a simple mistake that many boats could make. We saw a rosy long range forecast and took it for gospel. Having the forecast for first 2 and 1/2 days be right on the money only fortified our wishful thinking. We monitored onboard weather software and received weather forecasts and tuned into Herb (Southbound II) Heidelberg on the SSB. The weather maps did not indicate we were in the midst of a tell tale Low storm center, but rather that we were wedged in between high pressure (highs mean light winds right?) and a low that was passing well to the north and west of us. As a result we ended up in the area where winds intensify as the two systems squeezed into each other for two days. And we didn’t do what the weather routers encourage (and frankly what separates their services from simply receiving NOAA weather reports), we didn’t keep in close contact with them (via email or sat phone) once we left Maine.

However, even if we had learned the severity of the weather we were going to encounter a little sooner, the only thing we may have done differently was to possibly make a bit more easting (but not too much) to help with our angle as the wind clocked around to the SE. In fact some, boats that sailed more than 60 miles east of the rhum got clobbered, and sailed many more miles (and hours) through the blow for their effort. We’d made great progress prior to the blow and crossed the stream easily. We were closer to our destination than any other land. Like they say in the Mafia “We were in too deep to get out.”

As the weather deteriorated, we knew we could handle it albeit a bit uncomfortably. But as the wind came directly from the SE--smack dab on the nose—a little frustration set in. It was about 0200 during our second night of in 40 knot winds when we were forced to fall off to the point that we were sailing a course that was almost parallel to our destination. VMG was down to about 1 knot, and Boonie, who is a very experienced offshore racer, had had enough. He dialed up the sat phone and after several lost connections, and over the noise of the wind in the companionway, was able to talk to one of the weather routers who provided a crucial bit of info. He told us that the wind strength was going to continue all the way into St Georges, but that we could also expect 30 degree favorable shift. This is a key benefit of using a weather router once a window shuts down. He gave us just the little morale boost we needed with up-to-the-minute metrological data and would have recommended an informed course change if necessary. I spent the rest of that watch watching for the big header and appreciated the fact that he was able to tell us it was coming. He was right. It came, we tacked, and finally were back on a course that would bring us around into the calm water of the harbor. It was only a matter of hours (not days) now.

The wind never relented. It blew hard on the nose and made us work even as we turned the corner around tk reef and saw the pink houses of Bermuda under angry grey skies mere miles in the distance. It was only after we’d cleared customs and tied up along St. Georges famous wall did we learn that many other boats were cursing the weather just like us. In fact, there were four rescue missions (two boats sank) around Bermuda during the time we were out there.

James kissed the ground when we finally arrived in Bermuda.

Weather windows can only be rough guides. Part of the romance and adventure of cruising lies in the fact that we still sail off soundings, over the horizon, and into the unknown just like the British that first washed ashore in Bermuda. Of course technology has advanced to minimize the unknowns, but if you cruise long and far enough, you’ll inevitably pass the point of no return where, no matter what the report says, you have to make the most of the weather you’re dealt. Use all the technology to your advantage and make sure to keep in close contact with your weather router during your passage, but also beware of waiting for the “perfect” window. You may never leave the harbor.

Weather rules of thumb

Highs generally indicate light winds and settled weather. Lows generally indicate high winds and stormy weather.

The greater change in pressure or the shorter distance over which the change takes place the stronger the pressure gradient and hence the wind will be.

In the northern hemisphere, winds circle counterclockwise around an area of low pressure. In a westerly tracking Low, the strongest winds are usually near the center and on the southern side of the low. Winds circle clockwise around a High.

Lows typically move faster than highs. When a Low overtakes a High, the pressure where the two systems meet gets compressed. This compression (isobars get closer) increases the gradient and wind strength. A steady barometer and rising wind speed (the conditions we experienced) is usually an indication of sailing parallel to a isobar line in a compression zone.

Winds often follow the Isobar curves of highs and lows on a weather map. The steeper the pressure gradient (the closer the isobars are spaced) the greater the curves will affect wind speed

X-43

2011-03-30T08:02:00.001-04:00

There has been a proliferation of new racer/cruisers in the 40-foot range. Some builders have returned to the genre after focusing on more cruising-oriented designs, but the Danish builder X-Yachts has been consistently turning out strong, stylish, comfortable performance boats for 25 years. Drawing from this deep well of experience, Niels Jeppesen’s X-43 was reported to have all the ingredients—excellent performance, comfortable accommodations, high-quality construction—that people look for in a racer/cruiser. I joined the boat on a 300-mile delivery from Stamford, Connecticut, to Annapolis, Maryland, to find out if it lives up to the billing.

Under Sail

It was cold and the sun had just popped above the horizon when we nosed out of Stamford Harbor under power. With no wind to speak of, we motored past the yacht clubs on Long Island Sound, down the East River past the New York skyline, and out the Verrazano Narrows. We averaged between 7 and 8 virtually noiseless knots under power, testimony to superior engine-room soundproofing.

A building headwind was waiting for us as we reached open water. In 10 knots of apparent wind and flat water we were able to log 6 knots of boatspeed, and the helm felt the way I’d want my own boat’s helm to feel. The large wheel, Jeffa steering, and easily driven hull combined to produce fingertip control and superior responsiveness. The boat turned on a dime and tacked through 80 degrees.

As we made our way down the New Jersey coast, the breeze built to a steady 25 knots with higher gusts. We tucked two reefs in the main, wound up several rolls of jib, sheeted the sails down tight, and prepared for a bumpy night of motorsailing. We came off some waves hard, and none of us got much sleep, but the boat performed well, given the circumstances. We didn’t break anything, and we were able to keep boatspeed up around 7 knots and to motorsail within 20 to 30 degrees of the eye of the wind.

Once we rounded Cape May, our 12-hour windward slog turned into a power reach on the brown waters of Delaware Bay. After a celebratory cup of soup, we shook out the reefs and took turns playing with the boat. The breeze fell off a bit as we made our way up the bay, and even without a spinnaker (there was none on board) we recorded speeds in the 10s under full main and jib. I usually don’t lobby for steering duty while cruising, but I found myself hogging the helm. This boat was simply fun to sail. We charged up the bay, motored down the C&D Canal, and were calculating our ETA in Annapolis as we dropped a crewmember off at a fuel dock at the Chesapeake end of the canal and decided not to fuel up. Murphy’s Law—we ran out of diesel and ended up sailing through the channel into the Chesapeake and down to Annapolis on a dying northwesterly. No problem. We were able to sail at around 6 knots in a faint breeze that would have stopped many other boats in their tracks. We were a little late getting in, but it was hard to fault the boat’s light-air performance.

Accommodations

Spending a night or two on a boat in a wide variety of conditions can tell you a lot about the efficiency of the accommodations plan. I found it to be comfortable and well proportioned, equally suited to offshore work and dockside entertaining. As we motorsailed to windward, I made good use of the well-placed handholds and excellent footing on the boat’s synthetic teak-and-holly sole. When the boat heeled, I wedged myself comfortably into the nav station seat. The chart table is big enough to accommodate a full-sized chart book, the electronics installation is excellent, and there is plenty of space to mount an optional VHF, GPS, and even a radar screen.

The Eurostyle galley that runs lengthwise along the port side of the saloon has considerable counter and stowage space. I may be culinarily challenged at home, but offshore I was able to cook our soup without too much difficulty. With one long, slightly curved seat and a smaller separate seat surrounding the dinette, the saloon is comfortable (though it has only one sea berth, which needs a lee cloth).

Headroom in the main saloon is adequate at just over 6 feet. The master cabin forward has its own head, good stowage, a small sitting area, a large opening deck hatch, and a comfortable double bunk. The two mirror-image aft cabins have comfortable double berths, adequate locker space, and one small opening port each for ventilation. A four-cabin version is available.

It is obvious that the Danes pay attention to the details of joinery. The interior is wrapped in a satin-varnished teak veneer that results in a warm "yacht" look and feel. Doors have stainless-steel hinges, lockers have strong, durable latches, and drawer fronts and the cabin sole are meticulously inlaid.

On Deck

The cockpit and decks are uncluttered and easy to navigate. The double-ended mainsheet runs below the deck from blocks near the mast on the boom back to winches close to the helmsman. The traveler runs directly in front of the steering pedestal. All lines from the mast run under the deck back to two banks of stoppers and coachroof-mounted winches. Cockpit seats are wide, deep, and topped with teak. Visibility from the helm station over the low-slung coachroof is excellent. The big wheel allows the helmsman to sit comfortably on the coaming. The sidedecks are wide, and inboard shrouds make it easy to go forward. Stanchions are strong, the mooring cleats are bomb-proof, and the stainless-steel bow roller is sturdy enough to handle the demands of life on the hook.

The standard spray dodger is easy to deploy and provides the requisite shelter when you’re bashing to windward; it stows in a recessed channel (with a zipper closure) on the cabintop when you want to get it out of the way. The only drawback was that the cabintop winch handles tended to foul the dodger when it came time to reef.

Conclusion

The sailing performance is excellent, the accommodations are functional, comfortable, and well finished, and the boat can bash to windward like a trooper. A more conservative cruising boat may be slightly more comfortable when you’re motorsailing into steep seas, but on any other point of sail the X-43 comes into its own. If you are in the market for a racer/cruiser (or a cruiser/racer), the X-43 deserves a good hard look.

Sailboat Rig Check

2011-03-26T12:47:00.001-04:00

With regular maintenance, an aluminum rig will last for years. But if neglect allows corrosion and fatigue to establish a foothold, it's only a matter of time before something as small as a corroded clevis pin or a cracked turnbuckle could easily cause your rig to come crashing down. A survey by a professional rigger may be the easiest way to stay out in front of potential rig problems, but if you're going to check your rig yourself, consider these signs of trouble.

The most important thing is to be on the lookout for cracks and corrosion. Even with the rig out of the boat, many potential problems can stay hidden, so take the time to remove and examine both the fittings and the metal underneath. If the rig is painted, watch for bubbles in the paint, a sure sign of corrosion. If it's anodized, watch for a white, powdery residue. When you're ready to get started, have the mast pulled, begin at the top, and use the following checklist.

Mast cap
Start by closely examining the cap for corrosion, cracks, and wear. Remove the backstay and forestay fittings and inspect where they attach to the cap. If the holes show excessive wear-such as a groove in the bottom of the hole-or have elongated, the cap needs to be repaired. Clevis pins should be straight and just wide enough to fit through the holes. If the pin is too thin or too long, it may bend or crack. It's best to replace all undersized pins and all cotter pins. Never replace a clevis pin with a bolt. A bolt's threads simply act like a file. Check toggles for cracks and corrosion and for proper alignment. Remove all shackles and blocks. Inspect them for cracks, corrosion, and chafe.

Also, make sure that the antennas, lights, and wind instruments are functioning and that all wires are sufficiently protected against chafe. A chafed wire not only leads to a faulty masthead light; any stray current, even from something so small, can, when combined with water and salt, speed up rig corrosion dramatically. Don't forget the halyard sheaves. Make sure they run free and check the axle pin for cracks and wear.

Tangs and T-balls
Chances are that a shroud will fail where it attaches to something, so shroud tangs and T-ball sockets, which are crucial to the integrity of the whole system and subject to high loads and fatigue, deserve special attention. It's important to inspect the tangs and T-ball sockets for corrosion and cracking where they connect to the mast. Keep an eye out for corroded or distorted fasteners, and make sure that all stainless-steel fittings are sufficiently isolated from an aluminum mast. It's also critical to make sure that tangs and T-ball sockets are well reinforced and accept the shroud at the proper angle. A misaligned tang or weak T-ball socket can cause a shroud to fail.

The Mast
As you work your way down the mast, keep an eye out for corrosion, chafed areas, cracks, and dents in the mast extrusion itself. Even a small dent can weaken a mast enough to make it buckle. If your mast consists of two extrusions spliced together, make sure that the splice is tight, straight, and free of loose or corroded fasteners.

Spreaders
Spreaders are designed to withstand compression loads, but for them to function properly, the angle that a spreader forms with the shroud must be 90 degrees, i.e., equal both above and below the spreader. A cracked, bent, or overly worn spreader is a good clue that it was probably misaligned and needs to be repaired or replaced.

Check for cracks, wear, and corrosion in the spreader bases and check for excessive play in the spreader. It's a good idea to remove the bases to verify the condition of the interior of the mast wall and of the compression tube running through the mast.

Spreader tips are another common trouble spot. They're subject to extreme load fluctuations and are usually covered with chafe guards that can trap water and starve the stainless steel of oxygen-a perfect recipe for corrosion. Make sure to remove the chafe guards and thoroughly inspect the spreader tips.

Mast step
Because of its proximity to the bilge, a keel-stepped mast is highly susceptible to corrosion. Improper mast drainage and any loose current from a frayed wire can also contribute to corrosion of both the bottom of the mast and the step itself. Excessive corrosion could indicate one or all of these problems.  

Keel-stepped masts are also susceptible to corrosion where the mast passes through the deck. Check for cracks and wear under the mast boot.

Deck-stepped masts aren't as prone to corrosion at the base as keel-stepped masts, but it's still important to check for cracks, corrosion, and proper drainage and to make sure that the deck isn't deformed.

Standing rigging
With wire rigging, cracked swages (fittings compressed onto the wire under high pressure) are a common cause of rig failure, so make sure to check that each swaged fitting is straight and free of cracks and corrosion. Water and salt running down the wire and seeping into the fitting can speed up swage corrosion, so even if the fitting is free of cracks, be on high alert for corrosion near the top of the fitting. It could be an indication that the interior of the fitting has started to corrode and may be untrustworthy. Mechanical or swageless compression fittings like those made by Norseman and
Staylock are generally more durable than swaged fittings, but these still should be checked periodically.

Then check the turnbuckles. Make sure each is straight and free of corrosion and cracks. All turnbuckles should be clean and lubricated, and should be secured with brand-new split rings or cotter pins.

Next check the wire for corrosion and broken strands. Just one broken strand can make the wire untrustworthy.  In many ways, rod rigging is better, although more expensive, than wire, but potential problems with rod rigging are harder to detect. Potentially fatal cracks often occur inside fittings and can cause the rod to fail unexpectedly. Examine each rod head and fitting closely.

Chainplates Water and salt often get trapped between the chainplates and the deck, where corrosion is difficult to detect. If the chainplate seal is broken or you see evidence on the inside of the boat that water is seeping down the chainplates, chances are that the chainplates could be corroded and will need some special attention.

Do yourself a favor. Fix that cracked turnbuckle or bent fitting now. The rig you save may be your own.

Piracy and Guns?

2011-03-17T10:20:00.013-04:00

Uninvited guests with malicious intent have been a potential problem for adventurous cruisers since the original long-distance singlehanded cruiser-Joshua Slocum-famously put tacks on the deck of his little boat, Spray, at the turn of the century. He may have been guarding against head-shrinking cannibals rather than poverty-stricken petty thieves or automatic-weapon-wielding criminals, but as other recent tales of piracy in the news make clear, the problem of protecting yourself and your boat is even more pressing now as it was then. Here are some security tips to help protect you and your boat, but the question is: Is a carrying gun on board the answer? Be sure to leave a comment to let us know what you think.

Clear the Decks 
There's definitely "organized" piracy in some areas-most notably in the Gulf of Aden, in the northern Indian Ocean, and along the Strait of Malacca-but many "pirates" are just petty thieves looking for easy opportunities to snatch something they can sell later. And as you'll see, most of the following security tips only require that you practice some common sense. Simply by keeping the cockpit and decks visibly void of anything that can be swiped-handheld electronics, chart books, winch handles, and the like-and stowing equipment below, you can make your unattended boat less attractive to would-be thieves.

Lock It Down 
Locking everything-everything-down makes it harder for the bad guys. It's important to be able to lock the companionway shut, both from the inside as well as from the outside, and the hatch and lock should be sturdy enough to withstand attempts at forced entry. If they aren't, the companionway should be reinforced. The same holds true for ports and hatches. Ports should be locked even though most are small enough to bar entry, and all hatches should be locked and further secured with a sturdy grate that's lockable from the inside. This makes hatches harder to get through even if they're broken into.

Dinghy Defense
Nothing is a more lucrative target for opportunistic thieves than a dinghy and an outboard. Obviously, you should always remove the kill switch from the outboard when you go ashore, but a long, sturdy cable and a beefy padlock will provide much more concrete protection. Always lock the outboard to the transom of the dinghy and lock the dinghy to a hard point on land when you go ashore. And if you're unsure about the safety of an anchorage, locking the dinghy to the boat and hoisting it out of the water when you're on board makes it harder to steal (and helps keep its bottom clean, too).  Lights On, Nobody Home If they must leave the boat unattended in a sketchy area for a while, most veteran cruisers leave something on to make it appear that somebody's home. In many cases, leaving a cabin light, the anchor light, and/or the radio on when you're not aboard provides low-tech but effective electric security. Yes, these measures consume a bit of juice, but the added security and piece of mind could well be worth running the engine a bit more to top up the batteries when you get back to the boat-and find it just the way you left it.

Many cruisers do the opposite when they are under way in waters with reported pirate activity. They keep all their running lights off at night, and don't chat on the radio to keep from drawing unwanted attention from any locals looking for an easy score.

Secret Spots
 Most of these anti-theft measures are designed to make it difficult-and therefore unattractive-for potential thieves to get into your boat when you're away. But what if they actually succeed in getting aboard and breaking in? For the storage of cash, important papers, and valuables, many cruisers have secret hidey holes in non-obvious places-not under the chart table. Goodlander had a full-on safe built into a secret compartment on his previous boat, Carlotta, and when Jim Carrier cruises, he hides valuables in several unobtrusive spots around the interior. The bottom line is this: Don't leave anything-computers, nav equipment, cash, jewelry-in the open. Even if the boat is locked tight, a motivated thief could still get in, but he won't be able to steal what he can't find. Carrier goes one step further: He never leaves the boat without his passport.

Remove the Power 
And what if the bad guys intend to steal the whole boat instead of just a couple of jerry jugs of fuel or the dinghy? The next line of defense involves installing a removable battery switch that makes it relatively impossible to start the engine when it's been taken off. Yes, theoretically it's possible that a would-be thief could try to sail off or tow your boat away with a powerboat-and it's hard to defend against something like that, apart from chaining your boat to a sturdy dock-but chances are that if thieves are intent on taking your boat, a disabled engine could very well foil their plans.

Local Lookouts 
In addition to all these preventive measures, there are also two ways to pay for "boat protection." The first and most obvious is to tie up at a marina that employs a security staff. A marina with a night watchman and docks protected by locking doors and that's well lit and abuzz with activity is a much less desirable target than a lone boat left unattended in a dark anchorage. But you'll have to pay the going dock rate. And just because the boat's in the marina doesn't mean that all the other security measures can be ignored. No matter how good the security is, boats in a marina can still represent easy pickings for opportunistic thieves.

If you can't find a secure marina or if an extended marina stay is too pricey, veteran cruisers report hiring local "boat watchers" to keep an eye on the boat while they're away. Obviously, this depends on where you are, and you'll have to size up your potential "security guard" for yourself to see if the money will be well spent, but it's a possible solution, and there's a certain logic to it. Some of the coolest cruising grounds are off the beaten track in areas with relatively poor yet well-meaning populations. Many trustworthy locals will gladly watch your boat for a small fee and provide a real defense against any unsavory types who may lurk on the fringes of their society.

Another commonsense defense lies in communication. Use the radio. Get to know what the cruisers radio net says about the safety of the anchorage, and get to know your neighbors. The cruising community looks out for one another. If you're leaving the boat for a while, let your neighbor in the anchorage know about it and ask him or her to keep an eye on things. Offer to do the same for them. Chances are that they'll be more than willing to help.

Aggressive Defensive Measures? 
Fight or flight? Gun or Gandhi? What would you do? Carry a gun to aggressively defend your boat-and, in some cases, your family-against would-be attackers? Or maybe use a flare gun as a defensive weapon? Most cruisers say that if they needed to, they'd first shoot a flare up in the air-to try to scare the attackers off as well as possibly signal for help. Some said they'd try to shoot at the attackers if the flare in the air didn't stop the attack. Remember, Peter Blake died trying to defend his crew and his boat with a gun-not a flare gun-against gun-wielding men in the Amazon. It's impossible to know. But would Blake have survived if he'd just handed over what the men wanted and then contacted the authorities?

Another defensive tool is wasp spray. It's available almost anywhere, and most cans shoot a stream up to 20 feet long. It can be a pretty powerful deterrent if you get it in the eyes of your attackers.

Most cruisers say that the threat of "pirates" is real in some areas but that it's not bad enough to keep them from cruising. All say, "Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst." Depending on where you go, the chances of being victimized by petty theft are probably a little higher than a full-blown pirate attack offshore, and the majority of today's thieves probably want your outboard-if it's easy to steal-more than your head. The best thing to do is make your boat as uninviting to uninvited guests as possible.

So let's hear it. Flare gun, real gun, or none of the above?

Delphia 47

2011-03-17T07:30:00.001-04:00

The sky was overcast, the breeze was a steady 10 knots, and the gunmetal-gray seas were flat during my test sail of the Delphia 47. But unlike the countless boat tests I’ve conducted in similar conditions off Annapolis, Maryland, or Newport, Rhode Island, this one was a bit different: We were sailing on the Baltic Sea, off the Polish city of Gdansk.

Poland may not be the first country that comes to mind when you think of those with sailboat-building traditions, and Delphia Yachts may not be a household name in the States, though the Delphia 33 was chosen as CW’s Import Boat of the Year in 2008. But as I learned recently during a fact-finding/boat-testing trip in Poland, Delphia has a modern, high-volume production facility, and these Polish-built boats may just give the more well-known brands here in the United States a run for their money.

I say this after spending the better part of a day aboard the Delphia 47. Even before we left the dock, I liked what I saw. Its low coach roof, nearly plumb stem, sugar-scoop stern, and full teak deck produce a pleasing modern look. The cockpit layout is both utilitarian, due to copious storage lockers, and comfortable, thanks to seats that are more than 6 feet long and seatbacks that are tall enough to provide good back support. The dual wheels, walk-through transom, and decent-sized swim step made it easy to board the boat from the stern. Other on-deck features that I liked included the solid, oversized mooring cleats and chocks, the sturdy and attractive metal toerail, the wide side decks, and the fact that the fiberglass finish, even in hidden areas like the anchor well and storage lockers, was really well done. This attention to detail proved to be indicative of the overall construction quality of the boat.

Down below, the fit of the joinery—furniture, solid wood doors, and trim—was excellent, and the finish of the varnished mahogany woodwork, the light-colored headliner, and the ample natural light from the fixed and opening ports combined to create a bright and airy living space. The only aspect of the interior layout that’s a bit of a departure from layouts on most American production boats is the “Euro-style” galley that runs opposite the saloon settee to port. It’s fitted out with Corian countertops, a four-burner gimbaled stove, and stainless-steel sinks, and it may have a bit more stowage and counter space than an “American-style” L-shaped galley at the base of the companionway stairs. But it requires a bench seat to be situated at the saloon table near the centerline of the boat. This means that there’s only one sea berth in the saloon, and it limits the brace points for cooks in the galley a bit. That said, the saloon is a warm and comfortable space in which I’d have no trouble hanging out on a rainy afternoon on the hook or while off watch on an offshore passage. I also appreciated the conventional, forward-facing nav station. It has a good-sized chart table, ample stowage space for nav tools, and a comfortable seat.

I tested the three-cabin/three-head version (a five-cabin/four-head layout is also available), and I was particularly impressed with the forward cabin. It had good headroom, copious storage lockers, excellent ventilation through a large opening hatch and multiple opening ports, and a well-proportioned en-suite head and separate shower stall. The bunk is plenty wide enough for two at the head, but it does taper to a point at the foot. The berths in the aft cabins are larger than the forward cabin’s bunk, but since each aft cabin has an attached head, there’s not too much storage room. The head on the starboard side opens up to the saloon and will be the one that gets used while under way.

I couldn’t help but smile as we motored out of the marina, which was forested with a multitude of masts. While much of the one-time Communist country is landlocked, it’s obvious that the Poles sure do love to sail.

Getting the in-mast-furling main and the roller-furling jib set couldn’t have been easier. I settled in behind the leeward wheel, and soon we were cutting a clean wake and gurgling along at more than 6.5 knots upwind. Not too shabby in 10 knots of breeze. The helm was well balanced and didn’t require lots of steering to keep the boat in the groove. Unlike some dual-helm boats that can feel stiff due to the extra friction of the second station, the steering on the 47 was butter smooth. The sight lines from either wheel and the overall functionality of the helm stations were excellent.

I also liked the way the sheets and other control lines lead back to the cockpit. Each end of the double-ended mainsheet system leads to a self-tailing winch close to the helm. Add to the equation the self-tacking jib that can also be easily trimmed by the skipper, and it doesn’t get any more singlehander-friendly than that. Off the breeze, the nonoverlapping jib provides a little less power than a bigger genoa, but boat speed still hovered around 7 knots, and I’m in no hurry to trade the utter ease of the self-tacker for the necessary winch grinding needed to fly a bigger sail.

If we’d the time, I could’ve kept sailing across the Baltic to Sweden, but eventually we had to roll the sails up, turn on the engine, and make our way back to the marina. Engine noise was at acceptable levels both in the cockpit and down below; boat speed topped out at 7.8 knots at 2,700 rpm. The boat spun on a dime and maneuvered well.

The Delphia 47 makes a good case for the fact that a boat need not be radical to be successful. The boatbuilders at Delphia seem to believe that most folks are just looking for an honest, comfortable, attractive, well-built boat that performs well. And that’s exactly what they built.

Specs
LOA 47’ 6” (14.48 m.)
LWL 46’ 2” (14.07 m.)
Beam 14’ 8” (4.48 m.)
Draft 7’ 6”/6’ 4” (2.30/1.80 m.)
Sail Area (100%) 1,011 sq. ft. (94 sq. m.)
Ballast 9,920 lb. (4,500 kg.)
Displacement 29,321 lb. (13,300 kg.)
Ballast/D .33
D/L 133
SA/D 17.01
Water 129 gal. (490 l.)
Fuel 66 gal. (250 l.)
Holding 50 gal. (189 l.)
Mast Height 66’ 2” ( 20.17 m.)
Engine 53-hp. Volvo Penta
Designer Andrzej Skrzat/Schnaase Interior Design
Price (sailaway) $375,000

Delphia Yachts/North Lakes Yachting
(905) 891-8207
www.northlakesyachting.com

Boat Tests: Jeanneau 57 and Jeanneau 53

2011-03-16T11:17:00.000-04:00

The 53 barrels along on a tight reach.

As I glanced over at Henry Ford's summer house on the tony shores of Grosse Point, Michigan, I couldn't help but contemplate mass production. Of course, the new line of Jeanneau "Yachts," comprised of the Jeanneau 53, which I was test-sailing, and an equally well-appointed 57-footer, have little in common with a Model T, except that they're built on a production line.

And that's what makes these boats so interesting. They have the good looks, waterline length, interior space, big-boat systems, and bluewater capability often found on custom and semicustom boats in the north-of-50-feet range, but they're designed and built to take advantage of many of the mass-production techniques that Jeanneau has developed to enhance both quality and value on its other models. I took the 53 for a test-drive on Lake Michigan to see for myself.

Jeanneau 53 interior

The first thing I noticed on the 53 is that the coachroof is equipped with Jeanneau's signature curved windows, but the topsides are also noticeably lower and less bulbous than the popular 54 DS, which these boats are designed to replace at the upper end of the Jeanneau line. It's a subtle change, and in my view, it works. The lines are sleek and sexy without being radical.

I was also impressed with the overall deck layout. The cockpit is truly large (it should be on a cruising boat this size), the teak-covered decks are classy (ditto), and push buttons are right where you want them, next to big, electric-powered winches. The jib cars are fully adjustable from the cockpit and show that this boat is designed to sail as well as be a pretty home on the water. The dual helms provide excellent visibility and equally excellent access to the large swim platform aft. There's a stout double anchor roller on the bow, the anchor locker is cavernous, and the recessed windlass has plenty of anchor-pulling horsepower. The windlass can even be controlled from the helm station with a separate remote control. It may sound like an oversimplification to say that the layout of the 57 is similar, only bigger, but it's not really, except for one notable difference: The 57 is big enough to accommodate a tender in an aft "garage" that the 53 doesn't have.

The 53's coachroof may be a bit lower slung than that of the 54DS, but you hardly notice it down below. Headroom is way over 6 feet, and the main saloon makes excellent use of the boat's considerable interior volume. The C-shaped saloon table has room for up to 8 to sit for dinner, with two stylish chairs like you'd find around your dining room table at home. Opposite, the second settee is long enough to be a sea berth and also has a cleverly designed wine locker/armrest hidden beneath one of the seats.

Several cabin and head configurations are available; the galley is the only constant. The galley's got ample counter and storage space, two reefer units (one can be run as a freezer), and the requisite microwave oven. Our test model also had a good-size forward-facing nav station, a well-installed electrical panel, and plenty of room in which to mount electronics. The layout of the boat I tested features the master cabin aft and two guest cabins forward.

The master cabin is worthy of the "Yacht" moniker. It has excellent headroom, light, and ventilation despite its location beneath the cockpit. It's also equipped with a large island bed (it seems a bit too luxurious to simply call it a bunk), plenty of storage in both drawers and hanging lockers, a private head with shower, and a TV mounted on the aft bulkhead to watch as you doze off. I found the two forward cabins to be comfortable and well equipped but rather pedestrian. In the sleeping quarters, the master cabin aft seems to have received the most attention.

The 57

Both the 53 and 57 use the same varnished Alpi teak-veneer furniture modules, so there's quite a bit of similarity there. The 57 provides another cabinet, or a bit more elbowroom in spots where there's more interior space with which to work. The fact that these two boats use similar furniture elements is a prime example of how Jeanneau has exploited production-line efficiencies to trim cost. Sure, there aren't as many wood or layout choices as you'll find on a custom boat, but if you like what you see, does it really matter?

A fish-eye view of the 57's interior.

Under sail, I was surprised to see how the 53, a 33,000-pound cruising boat that was equipped with an in-mast furling main and 135-percent genoa, performed in 8 to 10 knots of wind. With the sails slightly cracked off upwind, we cut a clean wake, and boat speed hovered in the 5.5- to 6-knot range. Not too shabby. I found the steering to be a little stiff, but the boat tracked well and fell into a nice, wide upwind groove. Both helm stations provide solid brace points, and visibility, both of the telltales and to leeward, was excellent. Speed and handling were similar when we reached off. The larger genoa provided a bit more punch than a nonoverlapping headsail would and helped to compensate for the adequate and easy in-mast furling main that's necessarily smaller than a conventional main. The Philippe Briand-designed hull was easily driven through the water, and the ability to fine-tune jib shape with the adjustable jib cars rewarded minimal effort with good light-air performance.

Under power, it maneuvered like a yacht. The large three-bladed folding prop and powerful bow thruster made backing out of the slip a highly controlled affair. The boat motored easily at 8 to 8.5 knots at 2,500 rpm, and thanks to considerable engine-room insulation, engine noise was nothing more than an unobtrusive hum.

I think Jeanneau is on to something with its new line of yachts. The 53 is spacious, stylish, and sails well. The 57 has even more elbowroom, more sophisticated systems, larger battery capacity, and the dinghy "garage," but both boats are designed to do the same thing: provide all the luxury of a big boat without the relatively big big-boat price tag. Granted, a well-equipped, circumnavigation-ready 53 will run you about $500,000, but you'll get a lot of boat for hundreds of thousands of dollars less than you'd pay for some similarly sized custom yachts. And that kind of savings will bolster any cruising kitty.

Special Report: Bow Thruster Choices

2011-03-16T07:18:00.005-04:00

I may have scoffed at the perceived need for a bow thruster when maneuvering in a small boat, but that’s only because I was jealous. The truth is, most of us head for the water to keep stress at bay, and bow thrusters are specifically designed to help us do just that. In fact, no other single piece of equipment will make it easier (and safer) to dock your boat in all conditions than a well-installed and properly sized bow thruster.

Whether you decide on a thruster that pushes water through a tunnel drilled through the bow, a retractable unit, or one of the various externally mounted thrusters, there are some basic facts that apply to them all.

First, it’s critical to choose the right size of thruster based on the length, displacement, and windage of your boat. Nearly all non-commercial thrusters are powered by electric motors, and available sizes range from small, 2-kilowatt units that provide enough thrust for boats in the 25- to 30-foot range (yes, it’s possible to get a thruster for your 25-footer) to 15-kilowatt units designed to push the bow of a 90-footer. Bow-thruster manufacturers and installers can offer valuable selection guidance and can usually provide a range of choices to meet your needs. The rule of thumb when making a selection? The more thrust, the better.

Second, since thrusters use leverage to push the bow around the boat’s pivot point, somewhere amidships, thruster efficiency increases as the unit is mounted deeper and farther forward on the bow. However, getting a thruster right near the bow and deep below the waterline can be a challenge on many sailboats with shallow bow sections.

The third universal fact is that all thrusters use a significant amount of power. Granted, the necessary power is usually required only in short bursts controlled by either a joystick or port/starboard buttons mounted near the helm, but it’s critical that the boat’s batteries and electrical system be beefy enough to withstand serious electrical demands. A properly sized thruster for a 45-foot sailboat can often gobble up 650 to 800 amps for short durations. On smaller boats, some thrusters can be powered from appropriately sized house batteries. Given the relatively short distance between the battery bank, usually by the engine, and the bow, voltage drop won’t be as significant as it is on bigger boats with necessarily longer cable lengths.

In all but the smallest boats, many manufacturers and installers recommend providing a dedicated battery and charging system for the bow thruster and, as often is the case, the windlass. This setup provides several benefits. First, it limits voltage drop from long power-cable runs since the power source can be mounted as close as possible to the unit, often within 18 inches. A dedicated battery will also ensure that if there’s a problem with these two high-power-draw units, the boat’s house batteries will be unaffected. And in some cases, a battery switch can be installed so the power from this dedicated battery can be available for other needs if there’s a problem with the house batteries.

The last thing you need to know is that all bow thrusters make some kind of noise when they’re in use. The culprit? Propeller cavitation, which occurs when the unit’s prop sucks in air as well as water. In the worst-case scenario, a thruster will make a grating, rocks-in-a-washing-machine noise, but if care is taken to locate the thruster as deep in the water as possible, this noise can be significantly reduced.

Those are the basics. Here, then, are the choices.

Tunnel Thrusters

Tunnel thrusters move the bow in the desired direction by propelling water through a tunnel that runs through the bow using one or two electric-powered propellers. Installing this type of thruster requires drilling a fairly big hole through the bow of your boat, but as long as the installation is completed correctly with the proper materials, the structural integrity and water tightness of the hull won’t be adversely affected.

Once you know how much thrust you’ll need, you’ll have to determine that there’s enough interior volume in the bow to accommodate the space that’ll be taken up by the tunnel and by the motor that mounts on top of it. On sailboats that don’t have adequate space for the tunnel well forward or a bow area with sufficient depth below the waterline, the tunnel may need to be mounted farther back, and the unit will have to be up-sized to compensate for the loss of leverage as a result of the location.

You’ll also need to make sure that there’s enough space in which to install the dedicated battery. But once the installation is complete, tunnel thrusters are simple to use. Their motors are kept dry inside the bow, their propellers are protected in the tunnel, and they’re always ready to use below the waterline.

And that brings up an interesting point. You’d think that having a tunnel bisecting the bow below the waterline would surely lead to increased drag when you’re sailing or powering at speed. But this can be minimized, provided that a small lip is faired into the leading edges of where the tunnel meets the hull and that a depression is created along the trailing edges. These divert the water away from the tunnel port, resulting only in an almost imperceptible increase in drag.

The one potential problem with this type of thruster installation is fouling, either with growth on the propeller or in the tunnel itself. Conventional antifouling paint works when it sloughs off as a boat moves through the water, but it’s not very effective in bow thruster tunnels. There are paints under development that could provide a better bow thruster antifouling, but for now, the best defense against a fouled tunnel thruster is to use it regularly to give the area a good flush.

Retracting Thrusters

Retracting thrusters deploy when needed and retract into a housing when not in use. Their benefits? In some cases, they can be used on boats that don’t have an ideal spot for a tunnel, and they often can be installed farther forward on the bow, while still being sufficiently deep when in use. Since they’re only in the water while you’re maneuvering under power and retract into the hull when not in use, these units don’t produce drag, and aren’t as susceptible to fouling by marine growth as tunnel thrusters.

But now for the bad news: A retractable unit will usually cost 20- to 30-percent more than a similarly sized tunnel unit. And since the whole unit needs to retract up into the boat, the internal area required in the bow to accommodate both the motor and the prop could impact the bunk and storage areas in the forward cabin versus a lower-profile tunnel unit that can often be mounted out of the way under the furniture.

External Thrusters

As more skippers (even owners of boats in the 20- to 30-foot range) see how a bow thruster can take some of the anxiety out of maneuvering in tight quarters, externally mounted units that are much easier to install, and are often less expensive than tunnel or retractable units, are becoming available. An external thruster usually doesn’t require significant structural work—drilling holes in the bow, glassing in a tunnel and the resulting extensive fairing—they simply bolt on to the bow below the waterline.

But lower cost and ease of installation require some compromises. First, since these units are simply bolted on to the bow, they may cause drag while under way, depending on their design. And since there’s always an unprotected unit protruding from the bow, they may catch and snag lines or other debris in the water, and the motor will be submerged constantly.

There are lots of bow-thruster options for big or small boats—and budgets. But no matter what type of bow thruster you choose, all will help improve tight-quarters boat handling and take the stress out of docking.

Bow-Thruster Manufacturers

Exturn: (866) 996-7577, www.exturnusa.com

Lewmar Inc.: www.lewmar.com (log on for a dealer in your area)

MAX Power: +33 (4) 92 19 60 60, www.max-power.com

Quick Nautical Equipment: +39 0544 415061, www.quickitaly.com

RMC Marine: +46 (0) 31 28 32 40, www.rmcmarine.com

Side-Power (Imtra): (508) 995-7000, www.sidepower.com

Sideshift: (877) 325-4787,

www.sideshift.com

Vetus: www.vetus.com (log on for a dealer in your area)

Field Report: Underwater Camera Test

2011-03-15T07:35:00.018-04:00

I've always tried to shoot photos, both on the boat and while snorkeling, during the various charters and offshore passages I've been on. But the reality is, the non-waterproof cameras that I've carried have invariably succumbed to my abuse and the perils of salt and moisture-without even being submerged. I've never wanted to mess with fickle and expensive camera housings, and the various drugstore disposable waterproof cameras I've used have rarely yielded a decent photo. But after researching waterproof cameras to test on a recent charter in Antigua and Barbuda, it appears that my onboard, underway, and underwater photo dilemma has been solved.

The reality is that there's a bunch of digital cameras that have all the features, functionality, and dimensions of a pocket-size point-and-shoot-auto focus, easy-to-see LCD screen, adjustable zoom-that are also waterproof to snorkel- and, in some cases, dive-friendly depths.

The stated criteria for this test were that each camera would be digital and capable of shooting both still photos and video, waterproof to at least 20 feet, have at least 10 megapixels of effective resolution, and retail for less than $500. Each camera I tested met and often exceeded these parameters. Most are also rated "shockproof" (able to withstand being dropped on a hard surface from a height of 4 to 6 feet), and one camera is designed to take pictures down to a depth of 200 feet.

My test procedure was as scientific as it could be, given that I'm a sailor and not a scientist or pro photographer. I used each camera, both underwater and above, and recorded my impressions, rating each for overall functionality and ease of use, the visibility of the screen underwater, and how truly waterproof the cameras appeared to be. I took pictures in similar conditions while snorkeling in about 7 feet of water.

I tested the Canon PowerShot D10, the Olympus Stylus Tough-8010, the Panasonic Lumix TS2, the Pentax Optio W90, and the SeaLife DC 1200. Just don't ask me how I got them through airport security in my carry-on.

Canon PowerShot D10

The Canon shoots clear pics and was easy to use.

The things I really liked about using the D10 from Canon were its buttons. The shutter button is big enough so that I didn't need to feel around for it underwater, and it's right where it should be, on the top right-hand side of the camera. I also liked the large, individual buttons on the back of the camera. Zooming in and out was easy; each function has its own large button that can be intuitively adjusted with your thumb. Other functions, such as switching from still to video mode, the flash settings, playback, and menu also have underwater-user-friendly buttons.

The shape of the D10 also stands out. Some of the other cameras are quite compact and square. The D10 has similar dimensions, but the lens protrudes a bit. It's a subtle thing, and it may be necessary since the camera is equipped with an image stabilizer, which comes in handy when you're bobbing around underwater. Its flash is also larger than those on some of the other cameras. The result is that it felt bulkier in my pocket than some of the others. The LCD screen is slightly smaller than the screens on some of the other cameras, but I had no trouble seeing it underwater, and I always had a good idea of the picture I was trying to take. The auto-focus also worked well.

The sand was a little stirred up for this shot with the Canon.

Like most of the cameras, the battery and SD card are housed under one locking latch on the bottom of the camera, and the DC-in and AV-out (where you connect the USB cord to the computer) connections are under another, smaller latch on the side. It was easy to download the photos to the computer, but I did wonder how long the thin, rubber gasket on those latches will keep those areas truly waterproof. But, everything worked for this test, and it comes with a 1-year limited warranty.

Canon, (800) 385-2155, www.Canon.com

Pentax Optio W90
The Optio W90 from Pentax is slightly narrower-that is, more rectangular-than the other cameras, and while it's a subtle difference, its shape actually makes it feel smaller than the others. Compactness is a good thing, especially when the camera is in your pocket or hanging from your wrist underwater. Maybe this was the reason that I liked the way it felt in my hand and, when all of the cameras were all charged up and laid out in the nav station, I found myself grabbing it first.

I shot this lobster with the Pentax and some of the other cameras.

Conversely, while at first glance the LCD screen appears to be slightly bigger than the others, the actual visible image fills only most, not all of the screen. The image on the screen turns out to be slightly smaller than the screen images on some of the other cameras. The smaller screen-image size didn't keep me from taking good pictures, but the bigger screens made it just a little bit easier to see what I was shooting.

The cool thing about all these cameras is that they take great pics both above and below the water.

Underwater, I had no trouble seeing the screen through my mask and zooming in tight. All the function and menu buttons on the back of the camera are on the small side (as with some of the other cameras ), except for the shutter button. It's large enough, and I never missed a shot because I'd pushed the wrong button.

The latches on the battery and port compartments did a good job of keeping the water out, and the gaskets seemed up to the task, but the locking mechanisms on both latches were so small that I needed to use a fingernail with a coordinated slide of the latch to get them open.

Pentax, (800) 877-0155, www.pentaximaging.com

Panasonic Lumix TS2
In addition to the bright color and seemingly tough metal exterior of the Lumix TS2 from Panasonic, the other thing that caught my attention, even before I brought it overboard with me, was the camera's Leica lens. The lenses on all of the test cameras are necessarily small, and I'm not enough of a techie to tell you the specific impact that a Leica lens can make, but Leica lenses have a reputation for clarity that you can see in the test photo above.

Here's Mr. lobster shot with the Panasonic at about 7 feet.

Shooting photos with the camera was easy and straightforward. The control buttons are not as big as on some of the other cameras, but they're still relatively large and allow you to change settings easily. Moreover, the buttons are well marked, so I didn't encounter any "Is the camera set properly?" problems, even when I was underwater or bobbing on the surface. The screen was plenty visible, and the zoom, controlled by a small rocker button just in front of the good-size shutter button, worked well.

Another angle.

I was impressed with the way the battery/SD slots and AV-out ports keep the water out. Both areas are sealed by beefy latches with a relatively stout rubber gasket that forms a tight seal around each compartment. I also liked the fact that they're double-locking latches. They not only "click" tight; they also have a secondary lock that shows an area of red when it's not completely sealed. Since it obviously only takes a drop of salt water inside either of those compartments to likely fry the camera, it was reassuring to know when the latches were locked and the seals were tight.

Panasonic (800) 405-0652, www.panasonic.com/lumix

SeaLife DC 1200

While all of the other cameras in this test were fairly well grouped together according to size, price, maximum depth, and overall functionality, they're all pretty much regular point-and-shoot cameras that have been made waterproof. The SeaLife DC 1200 from SeaLife Cameras, on the other hand, was made specifically to be used underwater and to be watertight way deeper than the snorkel-friendly and relatively low-pressure depth of 20 feet specified by me for this test.

This was shot with the SeaLife at about 30 feet.

The DC 1200 is actually a camera and a housing, and though I'd previously been averse to using a housing, I shouldn't have worried.

Compared with the other cameras, the SeaLife's housing is necessarily bigger and beefier to withstand pressure at depths of up to 200 feet, but it was super-easy to deal with and wasn't so big as to be a hindrance. The housing was a snap to open and lock shut, and the camera (similar in size to the others but not waterproof outside the housing) was made specifically to fit, and be fully operational, inside the housing. Since all of the function and menu buttons on the back of the camera are large and in line with large, well-marked, waterproof buttons on the back of the housing, it's possible to switch from still to video mode or adjust any other setting without having to take it out of the case. Very cool.

Same deal. Shot 30 feet down that the other cameras weren't rated for.

The DC 1200 has the biggest LCD screen of all the cameras that I tested, and overall, it worked beautifully. If you're only looking for a camera to take occasional photos while snorkeling and appreciate the compact size of some of the other cameras, then the SeaLife could be more than you need. But if you're looking for a camera that'll give you lots of flexibility and take fantastic deepwater diving pictures, the SeaLife may just be what you're looking for.

SeaLife Cameras (856) 866-9191, www.sealife-cameras.com

Olympus Stylus Tough-8010

The Tough-8010 from Olympus is the camera I worried about the least before sliding it into my bathing-suit pocket and swimming ashore from the boat. Like most of the other cameras, it's about the size of a pack of cigarettes and has a shockproof rating. But unlike all of the others, it also has a metal cover that protects the lens when the power is turned off and snaps open automatically when you turn the camera on, and there's no lens cap to lose.

Same reef about 7 feet down shot with the Olympus.

The Tough-8010 functioned like all the other cameras. The LCD screen was bright, the auto-focus worked well, and I always had a good idea of the photo I was taking. But as I tried one camera after another, it became apparent that size does matter when it comes to the control buttons, and on the Tough-8010, I found them to be on the small side. This isn't a huge deal, but the smaller buttons required a bit more concentration and dexterity to make sure that the camera was set up properly. When it came time for me to capture the money shot, I occasionally had to make sure I was pushing the shutter button and not turning the camera off. Same for the zoom buttons on the back of the camera. They worked great, but I just had to look down to make sure my thumb was on the right button.

One thing I never wondered about on the Tough-8010 was its waterproofness. All vital components are housed beneath a single door-it's beefier than just a latch-on the side of the camera. The gasket forms a tight seal, and the door has both a clasp that closes with a click and a completely separate knob that locks the door shut with a second click.

Olympus (888) 553-4448, www.olympusamerica.com

So What's My Take?

After testing these cameras for a week in the tropics, I can honestly say that while they all exceeded my expectations, one didn't stand head and shoulders above the rest. They were all easy to use, had similar functions, capabilities, and prices, and took sharp, high-resolution photos both underwater and on land. And the photos were easy to upload and organize on my laptop computer. When all the cameras were laid out on the table, I found that I grabbed the Optio, but that was due more to its size than anything more substantive.
The fact that all these cameras are relatively compact and shoot photos and videos just as well as my non-waterproof camera, while also being both waterproof and even shockproof in most cases, got me thinking: If you're a cruiser, the right waterproof camera may be the only camera you'll need.

Industry Leader Profile: Island Packet's Bob Johnson

2011-03-14T10:56:00.012-04:00

Bob Johnson is a boat guy. And he's a car guy. And he's an M.I.T.-educated thinker who also happens to be the founder, president, and chief designer of Island Packet Yachts. He's designed and built sturdy and seakindly offshore cruising boats for nearly three decades, and he's the undisputed Grand Poobah of the modern full-keel cruising-boat market. As Island Packet prepares to celebrate 30 years in business, I caught up with him to hear how it all happened.

"I guess I was genetically programmed to be a boatbuilder," he says from his office in Largo, Florida. "My ninth-grade civics paper was titled 'My Career in Naval Architecture,' and I was 14 when I built my first boat, a 12-foot, gaff-rigged, V-bottom catboat with a bowsprit. I built it in the carport, and Mom made the sails from muslin we bought at Sears."

Just as that freshman in high school predicted, Johnson went on to earn a bachelor's degree in mechanical engineering from the University of Florida, then a master's in naval architecture and marine engineering from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, but his start in the boat business took a circuitous route. At graduation, he was a prime candidate for the draft during the Vietnam War, so he took a "critical skills" job at McDonnell Douglas designing and analyzing missiles and rockets in Southern California before getting into the sailboat business, which was decidedly less critical to the war effort. And in between, he took a sidestep into the offbeat world of surfboards.

"I joined W.A.V.E. Inc. in Ventura, California, in 1970 to help introduce aerospace technology into the surfboard-manufacturing process. This chapter in my career lasted five years and was the equivalent of earning an M.B.A. in grad school." Or to put it another way, he took rocket science to the beach crowd.

"My partner and I designed and developed surfboards made with epoxy prepreg and an aluminum honeycomb shell. Hobie Alter bought the first 25 we built."
But by then, Johnson was married with two kids, and he was concerned that his career track was moving away from the boats he loved. So he and his wife, Jeri, took the kids back to Florida to be closer to family and so he could finally get into the boat business. Not long after they arrived, he says, "I landed a design job at Irwin Yachts. One of my first assignments there was to modify an existing one-ton design from a fin keel to internally ballasted with triple daggerboards and to incorporate hard chines. It was built with a new material-Kevlar-and it was campaigned in the SORC. Pretty cool stuff at the time."

He was soon promoted to plant manager of manufacturing, then hired away to be the designer/plant manager at the relatively new Endeavour Yachts.
"I was at Endeavour for three years, until 1979, when I left to start my own boatbuilding business, Traditional Watercraft." That remains the proper name of the company, but thousands of owners and boat-show visitors know the company by the name of the boats he builds: Island Packet Yachts.

"I started by buying the almost-new molds for a 26-foot centerboard sloop called the Bombay Express from the recently defunct New Bombay Trading Company. I redesigned the interior, rig, and other elements and introduced the boat as the Island Packet. Since I had very limited capital, construction of the first boats was subcontracted out to the local custom shop that had built the plug and molds. My marketing consisted of a detailed brochure and classified ads in Cruising World, and the sales office was our kitchen at home.
"Thankfully, several courageous buyers were willing to take the leap and allowed me to get things rolling. I am and will be forever grateful to those early owners who bought and paid for those early boats, sight unseen," says Johnson.

"After about 18 months, sales and earnings had increased to the point where I could afford to rent a building, hire a crew, move the office out of the kitchen, and start building the boats myself." By 1983, Johnson and his team designed and built a larger model from scratch, the IP 31. The following year, he was able to purchase two acres near the company's original shop and build the first of its own manufacturing buildings.

"We now own 10 acres and have 125,000 square feet of space. We've built about 2,200 Island Packets so far and have dealers around the United States and in Europe and Australia."

So how does a guy who starts out in the high-tech world of aerospace and then makes a name for himself with radical surfboard and boat designs end up building what are viewed as traditional, sturdy, moderate-displacement, full-keel boats?

"I still love playing with go-fast designs and fast cars, too," he says. "And I'm in awe of the raw power and crazy speeds that something like a Volvo Ocean Race boat can produce, but after watching the footage of those drag racers on P.B.S., I can't say I'd want to cruise on something like that. The coolest thing for me is knowing that a large number of our owners have completed circumnavigations or made extended voyages across oceans to adventurous destinations. The fact that they select an Island Packet for these journeys and that they literally trust their lives with what we're able to create is a huge source of pride."

As I've learned over the years from chatting with Bob at boat shows and in his manufacturing facility, Johnson loves boats with his heart, but he also brings his scientific mind to the process, and he cares not only for his company but for the entire boatbuilding fraternity and boat-buying public.

"I'm also particularly proud of my involvement with an International Standards Organization technical work group that was created to write a new international standard for the stability assessment of sailboats," he says.
The group's agenda was prompted by the formation of the European Union and its desire for unified standards (called CE standards) to facilitate international trade. Johnson was asked by the National Marine Manufacturers Association to help represent the U.S. in this technical effort, and for the better part of the 1990's he worked with a diverse international group of about 20 experts in boat design to create this new standard.

"I feel that the result, while complex, represents the most comprehensive and correct method to evaluate and document a boat's stability characteristics and suitability for various 'use environments,' or weather conditions, that's ever been available to the design community," he says.

"So after all these years," I ask, "are you still having fun?"

"Boatbuilding has always been fun, invigorating, and full of challenges-market pressures, economic cycles, and the like-and I still really enjoy the business and the people I work with every day. I stay close to all aspects of the business -too close, some say-and I remain very much a hands-on manager."

Still, he says, the creative process for new products and designs is his favorite part of the job. "My two happy places are the drawing board-yes, I'm a dinosaur-and the tooling department where the plugs and molds for new models are built."

"You don't still use a drawing board, do you?" I ask with a wink and a nod. (My dad, a carpenter and trained draftsman, just finished designing his new house on a drawing board-the way he's always done it.) "What about all the advancements in computer design?"

"Computers don't design boats," Johnson responds, in a decidedly non-crotchety way. "We use them here, and they certainly facilitate the process, but people design boats. I always draw each new design by hand, and this forms the basis for a set of accurate working plans used to build the plugs and, ultimately, the boat. I have a feel for working with a pencil that has a certain Zen for me after decades of drawing boats."

That said, Johnson acknowledges that for some time, he's turned his drawings over to Island Packet's engineering staff for conversion into digital files. This can speed up the development process and creates renderings useful for marketing new models. "No," he adds to underscore the point, "I don't use a slide rule-anymore."

Johnson is a bit of a paradox: always thinking ahead despite holding on to tried-and-true techniques. So I wasn't surprised by his reply when I asked him where sailboat design is headed.

"I'm convinced that automated sail systems are a big part of sailing's future. When fully integrated with onboard nav systems and typical instruments, this will enable anybody to get all the benefits of sailing without ever touching a line." He describes a boat of the future in which all sailing functions-furling and unfurling, trimming, reefing-are powered by hydraulics and controlled by a central computer. "And it'll be faster," he predicts, "than virtually any crew would be able to sail the boat." Sailing could be as easy as plugging in your destination, then keeping an eye on things from the comfort of the cockpit, with the boat's systems taking care of everything else. "This will keep older folks in sailing longer, expand the appeal of sailing to a broader base of current nonsailors, and grow our industry in the process," says Johnson, whose SP Cruiser, a sailing/motoring hybrid boat, was designed to do just that.

"We're working to bring this technology to market. The slow economy has delayed the project somewhat, but it's on our agenda. I've sailed a prototype of this system on a non-IP installation, and I'm convinced it has the potential to change sailing. And all the diehards who may pooh-pooh this can still trim and tweak a conventional rig to their heart's content."

"Oh, I've got to ask," I say toward the end of our conversation. "Why are all Island Packets built with that off-white-colored gelcoat you use?"

"Bill," he says with a smile, "it's not off-white. It's ivory. And we've always done it that way for one simple reason: It's distinctive. You always know that an Island Packet is an Island Packet."

JP 54: One Radical Crusier

2011-03-13T09:06:00.009-04:00

The JP 54 has an anchor roller, long bowsprit, clean, uncluttered decks, and dual helm stations, but it's hardly your typical cruising boat. Maybe that's because it's the creation of Jean-Pierre Dick, veteran long-distance solo-sailor who wanted to go cruising after hanging up his distance-racing sea boots. When considering the project he says, "I imagined a fast, light yacht" which would still provide the joys of surfing in the Southern Ocean or elsewhere, but be more comfortable than his Vendée Globe yacht was. He wasn't kidding.

The JP 54 that's been launched and is sailing off New Zealand now is capable of ultra-fast passages because it's not only ultra-light, it has a canting keel, and get this-a 360- degree rotating salon. No that's not a typo. The galley, nav station, and settee (along with the boat's batteries and hydraulics) are mounted on rotating "carousel" that allows the weight of these systems to be effortlessly moved to windward. More weight on the rail translates into more stability and less heeling while also providing for more power and speed. As you see on the interior plan, the orange circle in the middle of the boat outlines the area where the rotating interior, rotates.

This boat may not for everyone, but it's sure worth a look. And the days when more mainstream cruising boats are equipped with canting keels and interiors that shift more weight to windward with a push of a button may not be that far off.

www.jp54.com

Tartan 4000

2011-03-12T09:10:00.006-05:00

According to advanced reports, the new 40-foot Tartan 4000 appears to have many elements—carbon fiber mast, boom and rudder, infused epoxy composite hull and deck, and all lead keel—that you might find on many race boats, and the solid stock cherry cabinetry and a spacious accommodations plan that all cruisers will appreciate.
The owner's stateroom features a tongue and groove cherry hull liner, extensive cabinetry, island berth, and an ensuite head with stall shower. The main saloon boasts comfortable sofa seating, a drop leaf table, and furniture grade cabinets while the galley has been optimized to include extensive counter and storage space, and a large top and front access reefer.

On deck, the 4000’s wide side decks and molded bulwarks with a solid teak caprail provide safe and secure movement fore and aft. And stainless steel handrails running the length of the housetop provide safe on deck maneuvering in the roughest conditions.

The cockpit is all about comfort and convenience. A twin wheel layout provides easy centerline access aft to the hinged boarding/swim platform and also places the helmsman in a great sailing position. The seats are contoured for comfort and wrap around a removable teak cockpit table.

www.tartanyachts.com

Test Sail: Morris 52

2011-03-11T08:44:00.005-05:00

I was a bit skeptical when Cuyler Morris rang me up and asked, "Hey, you wanna go sailing?" On first blush, sailing with the president of Morris Yachts on one of the company's gorgeous new models sounds like fun, but I've learned over the years that sailing with Cuyler always seems to involve less-than-comfortable upwind passages. Like the first time I said yes, and we spent nearly the entire trip from Morris' idyllic Bass Harbor, Maine, facility to Bermuda thrashing into a headwind that topped out at a sporty-and sustained-50 knots. Or the time when we sailed a Morris down from Maine into the hands of its excited new owner in Mamaroneck, New York. Yup, you guessed it: nasty, steep chop and lots of breeze, all square on the schnoz. He should've simply cut to the chase and said, "Hey, you wanna bash into a stiff headwind with me on a boat that can take it?"

OK, OK, I'm being a little sarcastic. Sailing with Cuyler is always fun. Besides, there's no better way to see how Morris' meticulously crafted semicustom boats perform in just about anything Mother Nature can dish out than to set sail when the breeze is blowing the dogs off their chains. On this most recent occasion, Cuyler asked if I'd be game to travel up to Northeast Harbor, Maine, to put the new M52 through its paces. That was late last June. The forecast was for heavy rain, civilized breezes, and seasonal-just the wrong season-temperatures in the 40s F. We'd be wet and cold, but at least there was a chance to see how the largest of Morris' successful M Series boats performed at tacking angles greater than 30 degrees apparent and in breeze blowing less than 30 knots. How could I refuse?

Nice Day for a Test Sail
The first thing that struck me as I approached the M52 in the rain, with a warming cup of coffee in my hand, was that it looked almost regal sitting on the end of the dock. Despite the damp, dark brew of low clouds and fog, the hull, with its blue Awlgrip; the white deckhouse; and the deep-brown teak deck glistened. But more than anything else, the boat's wonderfully low freeboard, long overhangs, and lack of lifelines were just so darn attractive. And I wasn't surprised. This isn't the first Sparkman & Stephens design to result in a good-looking boat.

The M52 represents the latest chapter of a successful collaboration between Morris Yachts and S&S. Morris' late founder, and Cuyler's father, Tom Morris, met the legendary designer Olin Stephens at one of Stephens' book signings. Soon, Tom and Cuyler were shown the plans for a 36-foot "daysailer" that the designers at S&S were working on for themselves.

"We'd been thinking about building something that was more suited to daysailing," Cuyler said. "Those plans were the ones we used for the M36. We hardly made any design changes at all." Since its 2004 debut, 63 of the M36s have been built, and demand for boats of that genre led to the design and construction of the bigger M42, launched in 2006, and ultimately to the 52-footer that we were easing off the dock on that rainy day in June.
The M52 may have lines that were inspired by the best of a bygone era, but that's where all comparisons end. There's nothing old-fashioned about the tall, carbon-fiber rig built by Offshore Spars, the in-boom furling by Leisure Furl, the Navtec hydraulics for the vang and backstay, or the push-button electric primary and halyard winches. Even a purist would have a hard time tut-tutting the ease that these modern conveniences provide, and that's precisely the point. The boat is designed to be easy to sail. The main went up with an effortless whirr of the halyard winch, the self-tacking, nonoverlapping jib unrolled on its elegantly recessed Bamar furler, and we were off.

On the Water
As we nosed out of the channel into a chilly yet perfect breeze and started trucking along upwind-yep, upwind-the balance of the sail plan, the angle of heel, and the tactile feel of the helm came together in an almost living, breathing way. Cuyler is a racer and a sail tweaker, and each adjustment-to the backstay, the main, the jib car, and the like-provided the subtle helm feedback that you'd expect on a smaller, lighter boat.

In 12 to 18 knots of breeze and flat water, speeds hovered in the high sevens and jumped to the eights in the puffs. With its hardly svelte 34,064 pounds of displacement and deep bulb keel weighing well north of 11,000 pounds, acceleration was more luxury sedan than sports car. But the way this gentleman's boat clawed to windward and stood up to the gusts was duly noted. We tacked through 70 degrees apparent, and thanks to the self-tending jib, the maneuver only required putting the helm down and accelerating out on the new tack-it doesn't get easier than that. Plus, I found that the helm station, situated between the varnished teak coamings, provides excellent visibility, and since all control lines lead to powered winch pods next to the helm, the boat is quite singlehander-friendly.

Our course had us circumnavigating one of the countless rocky islands for which Down East Maine is known, and after numerous, effortless tacks, it was time to ease the sheets and bear off. Finally. The boat leveled out. The rain hit me on the back of my jacket instead of on the side of my face, but otherwise, everything else-speed and comfort-stayed the same. Except now the crew had to actually manually ease the sails. Oh, the horror. My only regret was that we didn't set the big asymmetric cruising spinnaker. Under sail, the boat was efficient, quick, and responsive, while also being stable, sea kindly, and genuinely fun to sail-an excellent combination. Under power, the boat's 75-horsepower Yanmar was pleasantly quiet, predictable, and effortlessly pushed the boat to hull speed.

That's Yankee Ingenuity
It was only after we'd returned to the dock and had a hot cup of chowder that I dug into the details, both on deck and below. Let's start with the most obvious: Where are the lifelines? "All of our M Series boats just look so good without them," says Cuyler. And I can't disagree. Besides, stanchions and lifelines can be easily added to installed stanchion bases, he notes. Sure, there are plenty of situations-going offshore or racing, where you need them for safety, but is having a choice-leave them off while leisurely daysailing, pop them in for any serious sailing-a bad thing? Perhaps not.

Close attention to aesthetics is a recurring theme with Morris, but never at the expense of function. Sheets and other control lines are led under the deck to keep the topsides free of clutter. And the sleek-looking bow benefits visually from the recessed, electric-powered jib furler. Anchor gear gets the same detailed treatment. Instead of a conventional double anchor roller, there's a highly engineered, gas spring-powered system that allows the 75-pound anchor and stainless-steel bow roller to retract easily into a large locker just aft of the furler. With it, you can have the best of both worlds: The boat looks better without having an anchor banging around on the bow when you're not using it, yet the ground tackle is super easy to deploy when you do.

I couldn't help but be impressed by the quality craftsmanship on deck, and it was even more apparent below. The entire accommodation plan is wrapped in elegant white and varnished wood joinery. Bulkheads are sheathed in white raised paneling, furniture is hand-built of varnished mahogany, and the varnished teak sole and painted white wood sheathing on the coachroof drive the point home: This isn't your average production boat.

The interior layout reflects the boat's purpose: to be an elegant, easy-to-sail daysailer with comfortable accommodations for overnighting. Sure, the boat is up to sailing off to far harbors, if you'd care to, but the accommodations are specifically designed for a couple and guests to sail in luxury. The master cabin forward of the mast has a large berth, lots of stowage, excellent light and ventilation, and an en-suite head with shower. The aft cabin is smaller, but there's a double bunk, plenty of stowage, and a second head. Guests will hardly be roughing it.

Other interior features reflect the boat's "daysailer" ethos. The nav desk faces aft and is tacked onto the end of a settee rather than having its own dedicated chair with backrest. And the galley-three-burner stove, multiple lockers, stainless-steel sinks-is well appointed and utterly functional, though the proportions are the result of a conscious decision to keep it simple and make more room for the large saloon.

In my estimation, this boat achieves the goals of its designers and the builder beautifully. It's push-button easy to sail. It's solid and stable, and it's got some get up and go. There's ample room in the cockpit to bring a collection of friends out for an afternoon daysail, and there's well-appointed accommodations for an owner and a more intimate gathering of friends or family on a longer cruising mission. And no matter where you go, and no matter what the weather, it's sure to turn heads in every harbor it visits.

Specs

LOA 52' 11" (16.12 m.)
LWL 38' 2" (11.58 m.)
Beam 14' (4.27 m.)
Draft (stnd./optional) 6' 8"/5' 8" (2.06/1.75 m.)
Sail Area (100%) 1,414 sq. ft. (131 sq. m.)
Ballast (stnd./optional) 11,391/11,947 lb.
(5,166/5,419 kg.)
Displacement (half load) 34,064 lb. (15,451 kg.)
Ballast/D .33
D/L 275
SA/D 21.5
Water 100 gal. (378 l.)
Fuel 80 gal. (302 l.)
Mast Height 80' 0" (24.38 m.)
Engine 75-hp.Yanmar
Designer Sparkman & Stephens
Price $1,380,000
Morris Yachts
207-244-5509
www.morrisyachts.com