Project X

July 13, 2013

2013-07-13T15:12:00.000-07:00

Well, there isn't much going on in my life to report so I'll just jump to the point. As alluded, here is the post about the Rear Sway Bar: 19mm Eibach rear swaybar to be precise.

The reason why I got it was because it was on sale on Amazon.com. I found one brand new for $105. Due to Swagbucks, it only costed me $90 from all those giftcards accumulated. Furthermore, I was tired of the rear slipping when turning, which made the experience horrible. This swaybar is an upgrade from the crappy 12mm that we have in our R18s. Keeping things into perspective, the SI sway is 17mm. This swaybar is an adjustable bar - which means there are multiple setting. By multiple, I mean two: stiff and stiffer. I chose to be greedy and set it to stiffer by putting the endlink bolt into the hole closest to the bar. Do I recommend this if you corner really hard like AutoX? No. At least not with the stock endlinks and unreinforced brackets as there is a high potential that you may break them. I moderately take corners hard - if that makes any sense so I found it ok. I will update once I am due for an oil change, where I can take a good look underneath the car. *fingers crossed*.

In terms of performance and comfort, I feel the difference almost immediately. There is increased oversteer as a result of a weak front bar and a stiff rear, which makes the car turn better. With respect to body roll, I think there is slight reduction. You can feel it when going on an on/off ramp as I have been able to take those turns at +20 over the suggested speed without feeling the pinch.

Here are the pics below. The next post will be about the tint job :O lol.

(Stock Rear Sway Bar)

(19mm Eibach RSB :))

(And here it is! :) )

June 16, 2013

2013-06-16T10:21:00.001-07:00

It's been a while since I last updated. I officially graduated from the long dreadful hellhole - of course this blog is not about bashing as I clearly done enough of that in the survey they kindly provided =P. Anyway, I have to count my lucky stars for finding a stable source of income. Sometimes it is indeed all about networks - so if you're that specific person that's reading this, thanks.

Anyway, so I bought a can of Plastidip from one of my good friends last year around this time but I never really got a chance to use it until now. For those who are wondering, google Plastidip and watch those Youtube videos. Plastidip is a neat little product that's a rubber compound but applies just like a spray can/paint. The beauty of it is its "easy" (easy but I managed to f up lol) to install and remove if you don't like it.

My intentions of this purchase was to black out the badges in the rear to make a "clean" ass. As you can see from the final product pics, I only done half of it - with the rest done hopefully next weekend. I won't go too much into the details about the DIY as there are tons of Youtube videos. Tips wise, I will have to say PATIENCE is a virtue. You can't rush it. Masking tape can be used instead of that expensive painters tape and make sure you use amble newspaper to prevent oversprays. Also, don't get too excited and spray a shitload for each layer and don't spray it from too far of a distance as you'll get runs and bumps =(. Removing the excess is the most tricky part IMO as it sometimes snags and you end up removing what you don't want to - Shh. I tried my best. Other than that... I think it looks good. No more ugly chrome that Honda seems to be a fan of. >.< Enjoy!

PS I can't wait to install my Eibach 19mm swaybar. :D

(Note the Newspaper use)

(After the 4th and final layer)

(Finished Product) (Finished Product)

June 6, 2012 (Part 2)

2012-06-06T13:48:00.002-07:00

As I have hinted in the past entry, I was gonna wrap the chrome trim. Well, after weeks of procrastination (my enthusiasm was reduced after endless attempts at removing the stupid tabs holding the rear trunk trim in), I have finally done it (with help from my parents LOL). One person is CLEARLY impossible for amateurs because I have sadly wasted one roll of gloss black vinyl wrap. The piece is too light so you need someone to hold it in place while the other stretches and runs his/her finger along the piece to prevent bubbles. I have to first give respect to those who manage to do it without having bubbles (and to those who've done it by themselves). Anyway, now onto the DIY as you have all been waiting for.

1. Unclip those screw-in clips that hold your trunk liner in (if applicable). It uses a Philips Screwdriver. DO NOT LOSE THESE.
2. You will see 5 white looking tabs evenly distributed across the trunk. Some are in obscure locations and the tools needed for successful removal are needle nose pliers or a flat head screwdriver (ones used by watch repairs). However, unscrew the big bolt near the right hand side of the trunk that is in the same latitude as the tabs. This can be done with a regular hex bolt remover. DO NOT LOSE THAT.

3. Once removed, clean the piece to get rid of dirt that can inhibit the adhesive from sticking. Your trim should look like this. Now if you're rich, you can buy the actual 2006-08 piece and save you the trouble. I'm poor so this would have to suffice for now.

4. Dry off the piece and then start wrapping! More than one person for this job is required for an amateur as the wrap tends to be very sticky and thus trapping bubbles unnecessarily. Patience is also needed as I got mad and ragequitted and ruined one roll :( Cut more than necessary to cover it so that you won't miss anything. Start from one side and work your way down. I made sure the middle part had no bubbles before moving to the edges. You can be less careful in areas that won't be seen such as the bottom part of the trim. Even being very meticulous, I did have some bubbles that were stubborn but it's only noticeable if you're really up close and inspecting it like those lease return mechanics. For the holes where your plate light goes, just cut a slit and wrap the edges. Cut out any excess and tuck in the edges.

(PreWrap)

5. Once done, it should look something like this. Insert it back into the trunk and admire :)

(Before)


(Finished Product)

(After Mod)

April 26, 2012 (Part 1)

2012-04-26T15:20:00.001-07:00

It's amazing how time flies. I've finally finished my third year of studies. A year ago, I remember writing about my trunk LED DIY. This time, I have less radical plans for my baby.

So back in November, an online reputable shop had a massive sale on its products. I've decided to buy a CF grille to replace the hideous chrome slab that I don't understand why Honda would choose to include in its designs. I've never got the chance to install it because of exams until late December. Surprisingly, the CF grille didn't fit and fortunately I was able to exchange for something of equivalent value; Mugen Replica Visors. Yes, I probably could have ordered it from eBay for way cheaper but I didn't want to take the risk since there are many horrible ones out there on the market. Anyway, I finally had the time to install them today.

These visors look great from the outside and inside. They're held on by 3M double sided tape and are translucent which do offer visibility as well as shade from the blinding sun. Installation was pretty easy but prudence is needed to ensure satisfactory results. Before sticking the visors on, make sure you warm up the tape as it will help it stick better. Make sure you CLEAN the surface where the tape will adhere to with rubbing alcohol. Once dried, only then shall you carefully position and stick them on.

Now you may be wondering what I am going to do about the ugly chrome grille (and trunk trim) since that idea of replacing it with actual CF failed. Well, this will be the second phase of my project. I will be wrapping it in MacTac Gloss Black Vinyl that I bought from NextMod for $20. I've never done a wrapping job before (let alone wrapping Christmas gifts) so this will be a definite challenge. I shall report my progress in another entry.

(All Waxed and Sexy)

(Inside view from the rear view mirror)

February 20, 2012

2012-02-21T11:40:00.000-08:00

As one of my fellow readers pointed out, it has clearly been a long time since I last done something with my car. School's keeping me busy along with health reasons but now that I have a week off from school with no exams to study for... it's time I get back to this project. Nonetheless, my latest mod (well not really a mod unless you consider me tucking the wires back into the headliner, running it down the A pillar and under the dash to the cigarette lighter) is my awesome DVR Camera courtesy of Amazon.com. I just got it yesterday and it works great. The quality is decent for a price of $30 (refer to video). Anyway, this is the latest update. I did buy the vinyl wrap to wrap the ugly ass chrome trim (both front and back). However, I'm still trying to figure out the best way to wrap it. Hopefully this will be done by the end of the week! :)

*Update: I bought the vinyl and got the Mugen rep visors. I haven't had the time to install it yet. However, I also bought and installed a JDM overlay for the steering wheel. Fitment was ok, didn't really stick well. I probably would have better luck if I ignored iGround's instructions and took the OEM emblem out.

(JDM Overlay badge)

(My awesome DVR Camera :D)

(Insurance Frauders beware)

October 25, 2011

2011-10-25T16:38:00.000-07:00

It's been a while since I last wrote on here. Given this, I'll write my most recent but small mod: Nokya Arctic White 7000k for DRLs/High Beams (size 9005, Stage 1 (65W). I was supposed to tint before the start of school but I got side-tracked financially.

Anyway, I chose these bulbs because they are give a blue reflection in the headlights because of the blue overlay. The light output however IS NOT BLUE. It's a dim white. They also cost only $20 retail; free for my case because of Swagbucks. The install is very simple. The instructions for changing the high beam bulbs is in the owner's manual. Basically, what I did was for the passenger side, I removed the old bulb by twisting it clockwise and disconnecting the harness by depressing the clip. Once that's done, replace it with one of the new bulbs. Beware though, the rubber seal/ring may be too big in your new bulb resulting in the inability to lock the bulb in the housing. Hence, just swap the rubber ring from your old one to new one. It should work. Reconnect the harness.

The driver side is similar. However, there is the annoying coolant tank that is in the way. Removing it is simple; just pull it up and set it aside. There is no need to disconnect anything. If it slightly leaks, its normal. Once removed, you'll have access to the high beam bulb and repeat what you did in the passenger side. Once finished, slide the coolant tank back in and test the lights.

Make sure you do not touch the bulb with your bare hands as that shortens the life of it. Also, make sure your bulbs have Nokya imprinted on the base of your bulbs. Mine didn't but apparently the batch that I got didn't have it according to a reply from customer contact. Real bulbs SHOULD have Nokya printed on the base of the bulb.

The overall satisfaction is about 8/10. I do wish the bulbs were a tad brighter and more 7000k rather than 6000k. The blue reflection is definitely noticeable during bright daylight. Here are some pictures.

(Nokya Arctic Whites Packaging (Texbooks not included =) )

(Passenger Socket With Bulb)

(Coolant Tank Removed)

(Driver Side Socket With Bulb)

(Coolant Tank Before Removal)

(Stock Bulb with the Rubber Ring in the back)

(Finished Product: Notice the Blue Reflection)

June 10, 2011

2011-06-10T15:56:00.000-07:00

Summer school ended! Freedom! So, since I have more time, I will be writing a writeup (and comparison) of my recent mod: 35W 5000k HID for 9006 Bulb size (Low Beam), that was done today.

First, after careful deliberation and research, I had narrowed my decision down to 3 choices of HIDs. HIDextra, DDM Tuning, and XenonDepot. I was planning to go the DDM route as their kits originally cost only $30 excluding shipping. However, they decided to jack the price up to $35, and well, I like to save money whereever possible. So, with shipping, it comes up to a total of $75 CDN. I don't really mind DDM as I had another kit with them before for my 2010 Toyota Matrix XR and I was partially satisfied with it. I would give that kit a 7/10 as that kit required an extra relay harness possibly because of my automatic headlights. The harness was not cheap. I ended up spending $110 in total.
Given that, I decided to look for alternatives. HIDextra seemed like a viable option as it was not that expensive. However, I read many horror stories on forums regarding that product. Even though they offered good warranty (i.e. pictures and destruction of your broken ballast/bulbs), the frequency of failure was incredibly high (almost 2 complain posts per day with the most ridiculous story of one having the bulb exploded).
Therefore, I resorted to the last option: XenonDepot's Volt HID Kit. XenonDepot seemed to have great reviews from many of the forums such as 8thCivic.com. They're active participants in the forums so customer inquiries were handled quickly. I decided to give this a shot as my total ended up being about the price of my first DDM setup. Three days after ordering, I got the kit from UPS. I would include an opinion of UPS' computer tracking system but that is irrelevant and you guys must be bored from reading this story already. Upon reception of the parcel, I was very satisfied as the box/packaging was an actual company name unlike DDM's China Kit. There was acually a trademark name for Volt Digital.

(What the HID Kit Box should look like)

(The Kit)

So, here`s the actual DIY of the installation. There were many difficulties encountered with the first being the removal of the fender liner for the driver side. I had so much trouble removing the clip as it was so stubborn (and possibly because I was afraid to scratch the paint). The easiest way to remove it in my opinion is to get a flat (like flat, not raised) screwdriver and insert it into the groove and twist the screwdriver to ``pop`` it out. After that, just stick your finger into a hole that`s several inches below the clip and pull the lining out, working from top to bottom. DO IT WHEN IT`S WARM or risk cracking the plastic.

(Clip removed and wheel-liner partially removed)

(Inside the wheel-liner with HID bulb installed)

You now have access to the bulb on the driver`s side. The passenger side is the same, but I went another route as illustrated later. You will notice a white clip that`s attached to the halogen bulb. Depress the tab and pull down and remove the clip. Twist the bulb counter-clockwise and pull the bulb out and store it safely. Now, is the hard part #2. I am fortunate to have long skinny bony fingers and arms (laugh all you want) but it is proven to be very useful. Assuming you have your HID bulb ready to go (i.e. cable tie removed, plastic case removed), put the bulb into the hole. It is hard as there`s not enough space especially if you`re muscular. Nonetheless, it`s possible as I did it. I might have touched the bulb against something metal but try not to, at least NOT WITH YOUR HANDS as that shortens the life of the bulb. Once you get it into the socket, turn it clockwise to lock it. The grey return wire should be in the 6 o clock position. RUMOURS saying that it should be at 12`oclock to remove glare is false. I will illustrate that later. Hook up the white clip to the bulb`s female connector (the big rectangular one). This is really time consuming as I did it blindly but it is possible. Patience my friend and common sense. You can hook up the ballast`s wire later, or now if you wish.

Now onto the other side. Like I said, you could go through the wheel-well. However, I was turned off by the difficulty of removing the clip so I went the `Windshield Fluid Way`. First, locate the windshield water spout/cap. Get the same flat head screwdriver and remove the clip by popping it out. Once done, twist the spout out of the groove and pull it out and store it somewhere safe and clean. You`ll now have full access to the bulb... in a way.

(Full Access to Bulb, Bulb installed)

(Windshield Fluid and Clip)

Once you have full access, it`s essentially the same procedure as the driver`s side. The third hard part is to install/secure the bulb. The stupid ABS is in the way so twisting the bulb is VERY difficult. I can only get it partially. However, I was a genious by using a flathead and inserting it into the slots in the bulb housing and pushing it down so that the bulb can turn. It`s ghetto but it works. Make sure for both your bulbs that the pins are FULLY in place and are not partially inserted or you`ll be glaring everyone and your bulb may even fall out. Again, the return wire should be in the 6`oclock position.

Once done, hook up the large rectangular connector to the white harness. Next, you can finally hook up the ballasts, one for each side. This is the easiest part unless you have bad perception. Once that`s finished, mount the ballasts and tuck away all wire. These ballasts are REALLY SLIM and the wiring is long enough such that you can mount the ballast by the corners of the windshield for the FA1 model. Any bigger ballasts cannot be mounted there from what I`ve read. Nonetheless, you don`t even need doublesided tape as it doesn`t move anywhere. The kit provides zipties and tape but I used my own tape and ties to hold the wires and ballasts in place. Test to make sure the kit works (before mounting) and it should run fine WITHOUT a harness. The cutoff for now seems good. I haven`t tested it in the dark yet. Stay tuned to the gallery for night pics and updates on anything new regarding this kit :) I will give this product a 10/10 as it seemed to work on the first try and the color of the bulb looks good. XenonDepot.com is definitely worthy to buy again. The installation is about 3/5, 3 being moderately difficult due to Honda`s bad designs. Click here for a Youtube link that I just taped of the "Glare" and the output results (it's on my Samsung Corby Pro phone).

(Passenger Side Ballast)

(The Wiring - Blue and White)

(Driver Side Ballast)

(My Poor Hand.. They provide gloves but it makes the job harder)

(My own 3M Exterior Doublesided Tape)

(All that RustProof Grease... Time for a wash)

(Night shot of the Glare)

(You can see the rough cutoff in the daylight - Sorry for blur)

(Better view!)

May 13, 2011

2011-05-13T15:46:00.000-07:00

Well, I should be studying but playing with electricity is 100x more fun *sarcastically speaking*. Anyhow, I've gotten onto my second part of the LED Project. So, I have bought 4 Blue 30cm LED strips from Ebay and I've installed them as interior lighting following a DIY on 8th Civic. However, I went the ghetto way and didn't follow 100%. I went cheapo by a) simply using masking tape and electric tape to hold the strips and wires, b) used the electric tape to connect the two wires (again, I don't know where my sodder gun/sodder is in my basement, c) didn't take anything apart to "hide" the wires except for the left kick panel which was in the way, and d) used one color wire for everything (to indicate negative, I got a sharpie and electric tape and made markings on the wire). Therefore, I will not do a DIY but instead give you hints and tips if you want to follow this project.

Overall, the difficulty is about 7/10 since there are a lot of "panels" to remove (if you wanna professionally hide the wires). It took about a total of 4 hours because I was noob at wiring and also because I kept testing with a 9v battery to make sure the connections were secure, and because the kick panel was so annoying to remove. Also, eBay LEDs are not too bad. One of them had a bad connection in the strip from the way they packaged it, but it eventually worked out. Another one had one LED bulb that was misfiring, but it had no effect on overall lighting (Thank goodness). But don't worry if you get a bad strip because eBay sellers are generally really nice. If anything, threaten them with a rating of 1 star. Enjoy those pics and hints! (Scroll down)

Hints:

1) Masking tape hold the strip really well without affecting the light.
2) Electric Tape can replace soddering, but for more secure connections, use sodder and or butt connectors or male/female connectors for easy disconnection
3) Total cost should not exceed $20. Wires and switch were the most expensive, at $5 per 30ft roll and $4 per switch. 4 Blue LED strips cost only $6 incl. shipping. Parallel-Taps will work just as well as T-Taps and they cost $1.50 for 4. Female insulated connectors cost me $1.50.
4) Make sure you DISCONNECT YOUR FUSE #22 (it's 7.5Amp) in your fuse box BEFORE TAPPING THE PINK AND Light BLUE WIRE of the blue harness. That way, you won't short and blow a fuse.. which costs $5 for 5 fuses. Pink is the negative wire that allows the fading while light blue is the postive constant wire.
5) Remove the left kick panel by the interior fuse box for better access to the wires. You should remove the dead pedal (simply get a hex screw to remove the bottom clip and your fingernail or flathead screwdriver to remove the upper clip). You don't have to remove the door sill panel but just loosen the section closest to the kick panel because the kick panel is held underneath the door sill panel. Refer to Trim Removal DIY on 8th Civic. for details.
6) For better access to the wires, you should disconnect the blue harness (there's a tab at the bottom of the clip that you depress to release the clip). You should strip away the electric tape and the black wire protectors (3 cm should suffice).
7) IF YOU LEAVE IT IN "ALWAYS ON MODE", REMEMBER TO TURN OFF YOUR LIGHTS OR SET THE 3 WAY SWITCH TO AUTO WHEN YOU LEAVE OR RISK DRAINING YOUR BATTERY.
8) T-Taps and Parallel Taps Must be Clamped on HARD in order to puncture the rubber sheath of the wire. Clamp the metal portion FIRST before you close it, incase you didn't figure it out.

And here are the pics. Enjoy! Feel free to post a comment! I'll try my best to help solve your problems

(Nice Blue to match the instrument panel)

(To illustrate how bright the strips are and yes, the passenger LED is not taped yet.)

(Voila, everything mounted. Note the white 12smd LED map lights)

(Rear passenger lights)

April 27, 2010

2011-04-29T12:32:00.000-07:00

I am finally done all my exams. Hurray. Finally, I can install the first of my 5 LED strips. Wanting to fully do a LED conversion for interior, I've ordered a 60 cm white LED strip from eBay. Of course, again with my free money from Swagbucks, I've paid $0 for this strip, which originally is priced at $5 with shipping. The quality is acceptable, with a few LED bulbs that are whitish yellow, and the rest purplish white like my interior map lights. A DIY/post will be written up soon for that as well. Nonetheless, this strip was placed in my trunk, replacing the yellow 168 bulb. I am very satisfied with my work, except for my junk electrical skills which cost me 2 7.5 amp fuses. Below is a DIY for anyone wishing to follow suit. The ideology is same for other vehicles, but you would need to just test the polarity of the wires and items.

Here is the DIY for LED Trunk Conversion:

1. Tools needed are 1 LED strip of your choice of color and size. I went with white, 60cm. You need 2 Quick connectors (Parallel or T-taps 22-18awg) would suffice for a neat job instead of cutting the wires and soldering. You also need electrical tape, 16 awg wire, multimeter, wire stripper, scissors, crimper, 9v battery, flathead screwdriver, and flashlight.


(60 cm White LED Strip Ordered from Ebay)

(22-18 awg Quick connectors, wire stripper, 16awg wire, tape, multimeter, crimper, 9v battery, scissors, flathead screwdriver)

2. Remove the existing light cover as if you were changing your trunk bulb. Basically, get a screwdriver and push into the tab and pull out the cover. Your instruction manual should tell you how to do this. For the civic, you can remove the entire cover. I think it is ok to leave your cover on if you cannot do so but you should remove the light bulb because you do not want to draw extra current in your circuit, and it'll ruin the LED lighting.

3. Once the cover is removed, note the wires going into the blue adapter that you will be tapping into. White wire is positive and blue is negative. The reason for a multimeter is to check your polarity if you're doing this for another vehicle as the wires are different. While on the topic of testing for polarity, your LED strip's polarity can be tested with the 9v battery. LEDs work one way so polarity matters. Simply place one end of the wire on the positive node and the other on the negative. If it lights up, remember which wire is positive/negative. If not, reverse it.

4. With that said, now comes the fun but scary part. Scary is because I shorted circuit twice. Grab one quick connector (I used parallel ones because I can't find T-tap ones). Place one of them into the slot for the wire you wish to tap into such as the blue wire. By the way, start with the blue wire because it's negative. You won't risk unnecessarily shorting stuff. Place the wire of the LED strip (corresponding polarity) to the other slot so that when you crimp it, it'll connect the two wires. Depending on whether your original wire is long enough, you may need to extend your wire like I did. I simply cut an extra feet of 16awg, stripped one end of it and twisted the wire from the LED to it. Yes, you can solder but I couldn't find any in my home. Once everything is ready, you can close the quick connector. I've found out that you need to first use the crimper and clamp the metal splitter down before you can close it. Make sure the connection's tight or you'll risk shorting your wires and blowing the fuse :( If you do blow your fuse, its #22 in the engine bay that you'll need to switch out. I ran out of 7.5A, so I used a 10A. Safe? I don't know but I'll switch back soon after I am done my second part of this project.

(There's the blue adaptor, the blue wire which is negative, the white wire which is positive, red wires are for extensions)

5. Repeat for the other wire. It should light up if it works. If not, you either mixed up the polarity of the wires or your connections are loose. If your LED flickers, it's most likely that your connectors are not clamping the wires tightly.

6. Attach where you want the LED strip to be. I held it in place with electric tape, although the 3M doublesided tape works just as well.

7. Tuck all the wires in neatly and witness your masterpiece. Use more electric tape if necessary =)


Finished product (well, I did not tuck the wires yet).


(Looking in from inside the car with seats folded of course)

Reading Week!

2011-02-22T13:16:00.000-08:00

I figured keeping track of days is confusing for me. That doesn't mean I have short memory.. I just don't want to count the number of days since I bought the car.

Anyway, it's reading week, which means I have a week off from school. This year's reading week was surprisingly relaxing. Hence, I ordered some white LED plate lights and a dome lights from eBay for a total of $10. I did not pay for the mods because of the awesome site called Swagbucks that gives you free money and Amazon GC. Join it! Rewards to Effort ratio is 10:1. Nontheless, don't hate on eBay because they're not that bad. Cheap, yet effective. You just have to read the descriptions and buy from trusted sellers. Even "professional" stores/sites get their products made in China.

So, at the end of the reading week, I've gotten my plate lights and installed them. :) They are super duper bright. If you wish to do a simple conversion for your Civic, get flanked ones. They shine the light directly onto the plate for optimal output. Enjoy!

Here's a little DIY guide should that be needed:

1. You will need one philips screw driver to remove the clips, 2 plate lights of course (168/194 bulbs)

(Philips Screwdriver, 2 platelights)

(Plate light: High Power Dual Flank LED White)

2. Open trunk and unscrew the clips that hold the inner trunk trim on the hatch itself. There are 5-6 I think. Basically they are self-tapping screws. If you don't know where it is, the user manual will have all the details on how to change the bulbs.

(Self-Tapping Screws)

3. Unplug the white base holder by pressing the two sides and pull. Take out the bulb and put the new one in. It may be hard to pull out the old bulb but brute force will suffice.

(Just fits! The dimensions I believe were 21mm in length and 10mm in width)

4. Put the white holder back in to the slots. It'll snap back into place. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other side.

(Finished Product! I haven't had a chance to show the light output at night but will do in future!)

Day 2:

2010-12-05T08:46:00.000-08:00

Since it was December and here in Ontario, snow can be a problem, snow tires are needed. Hence, I've gotten Gislaved NordFrost 5 shoes! They were pretty affordable too, $680 for a set with 15" steelies at a store in Markham.

So far, these tires are not bad despite a ridiculous sounding company name. The handling is acceptable, except for the fact that in bumps and potholes, the car can be a little shaky. I think that's just because I'm running 195/65/15 rather than the 205/55/16. The tire noise is minimum, with the exception of going on concrete (i.e. Hwy 407). The tractions also quite superior as I've managed to get around with no traction control system.

(Gislaved NordFrost 5)

As for anyone that's interested, I have my stock tires and rims up for grabs. They'll definitely make a base model look like a Sport version :). I'm hoping to sell them to buy new rims. As of today, they are in perfect condition with 70km on them.

Stock Reference

2010-12-04T10:12:00.000-08:00

For those who have been following, I've replaced the content of this page (the words at least) with another post found on the home page's top right textbox. Basically, this page now is a reference for what my stock 2010 Honda Civic Sport (LX-S) looked like before I started giving it surgery and turning it from a star to a superstar.

So Day 1:

(My Stock Key)

(Stock Engine)

(Prepping the vehicle)