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How To Build a Concrete Countertop

2010-04-22T22:30:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Remove the Old Countertop and Measure

Measure the cabinets corner to corner and add 1-1/2" on the exposed sides for overlay (Image 1).

Before constructing the mold (form) for the concrete, build or secure a large, level and sturdy table (Image 2) on which to build the mold and pour the concrete. To minimize any deflection caused by the weight of the wet concrete, a table made up 3/4" plywood over a grid of 2” x 6’’s should be sufficient.

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1 Step 2: Build the Countertop Mold

The countertop mold is made of 3/4" dual-sided laminate melamine (laminate veneer is on both sides). It’s relatively inexpensive and up to the task.

Use the old countertop as a template to outline the outside edges and corners on the bottom piece of melamine (Image 1).

Using a table saw, circular saw and jig saw, cut the melamine boards to the exact size of the old countertop (Image 2).

Cut 2" melamine strips for the sides and ends (four altogether) of the mold.

Screw the melamine strips and bottom piece together with 1-3/4" countersunk screws to create a box (Image 3) for the concrete mold. Smooth out any rough edges with an orbital sander.

Use fiberglass or Masonite strips to create curves for the corners (Image 4).

The mold has to be watertight to keep the water in the cement from causing discolorations, blemishes and dry areas in the countertop. To ensure that it’s watertight, all seams and joints have to be caulked with silicone. But silicone can also discolor concrete, so it's important to smooth out the silicone very neatly and evenly to form an unobtrusive edge in the seams.

Before caulking, tape all interior planes of the mold (with painter's tape) on either side of all seams and joints, leaving just enough room for a bead of caulk to be applied. The tape prevents the silicon from affecting other parts of the countertop.

Caulk all seams, edges and joints where the melamine pieces come together.

When it’s all caulked go back over the bead with a dab of denatured alcohol on a finger, wiping the silicone smooth along all edges.

After the silicone dries, carefully peal the painter’s tape, pulling it into itself to pull it off as well as any stray silicone.

Affix any items for "relief" or "inlay" effects (these are objects that will stay in place once the concrete is set/cured) with spray adhesive to the base of the form. For this project, DIY Host Paul Ryan used a small leaf (Image 5) as the relief effect.

To make sure the concrete will release from the mold easily, douse a rag with kerosene-based release oil and cover every surface of the mold completely.

Fill all screwhead holes with colored modeling clay, which keeps cement out of the screw heads and makes for easier disassembly of the mold.

Using bolt or wire cutters, cut the "hog fence" wire mesh (Image 6) for reinforcement inside the mold, leaving about 1-1/2” around all edges. You can suspend the mesh by securing screws into the outside surface of the mold to which you secure wire hooks to “hang” the mesh inside the mold in the middle of the cement. Or as shown below, just after screeding the concrete (see Step 4), place the mesh evenly into the concrete and push it down, suspending it in the middle of the concrete.

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12 Step 3: Mix the Cement

The mixing of the cement is the most challenging task in making a concrete countertop. A lot of variables -- mostly controllable -- can affect the outcome. Still, DIY experts suggest that if you are deliberate with your planning and careful in your mixing, you can create a sturdy, predictable and satisfying mixture of cement.

Determine the rough volume of the countertop -- for a 1-1/2" layer of concrete, use 15 lbs. of concrete per square foot. From the inside of the mold, measure the length and width to determine the square footage, divided by depth. A good cement recipe is:

1 part cement (type 1 or 2)

2 parts rock (3/8-inch pea gravel)

3 parts sand

Water

Water reducer and pigment

The amount of pigment varies by weight, so use this rough standard: Pigment should constitute about 4 percent of the total weight of the cement.

Add a small amount of water into the cement mixer. Slowly add cement, more water and then add sand, pea gravel, more water, pigment (Image 1), more water and water reducer until consistency is like thick oatmeal.

The best way to tell if you have the proper consistency is to scoop up a lump in your hand, and, if it sticks together (Image 2), it's ready. Wiggle your fingers: The mixture should only "ooze" through, not drip or pour.

If you're having problems with the mixture, don't hesitate to call your local concrete store to get assistance.

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1 Step 4: Pour the Mold

It's best to have someone help when pouring the mixture into the mold.

Transfer the wet concrete from the cement mixer to a 5-gallon bucket.

Pour the concrete into the mold and distribute it evenly.

Using the magnesium float (Image 1) to spread the concrete, evenly distribute the concrete by lightly vibrating the float, an action called "puddling." Puddling helps reduce the amount of air pockets that form in the mixture. You can also use your own gloved fingers to push the concrete into the corners of your mold.

Scrape off the excess concrete by using a clean, straight-edged 2” x 4” pulled in a slow sawing motion (called “screeding”) across the top of the mold edges, sliding back and forth over the concrete (Image 2). A concrete mound will gather as you screed. Simply remove the excess when you get to the end of the form, making sure to clear it away from your feet.

After several screedings, place the hog-fence mesh directly on the surface of the concrete. Be sure to center it (Image 3), keeping it away from the mold sides, and then push it down evenly, suspending it in the middle of the concrete.

After the hog-fence reinforcement is in, screed the top surface again.

You should also vibrate the sides of the mold with palm sander (used without sand paper, Image 4). Vibrating the mold helps to release trapped air in the concrete, ridding the concrete of any air pockets.

Let it cure two to four days.

The ideal temperature for drying concrete is between 70 and 80 degrees. Don't disturb the concrete in any way, shape or form during the drying process.

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12 Step 5: Reveal the Mold

Concrete is extremely vulnerable at this stage and can be easily damaged, so be very careful and thoughtful in your handling of the mold.

Strip the sides from the mold. If you use a pry bar, NEVER pry against the concrete, only against other strips of melamine or wood. Remove the screws and pry the boards away carefully.

Use an orbital sander to smooth the edges of the concrete before flipping the countertop.

Gather several friends for help flipping the countertop over. The countertop can weigh anywhere up to 100 pounds, depending on its size. Be extremely careful flipping the countertop.

Step 6: Prep the Countertop for Installation

After you’ve removed the top melamine piece, sand the top well with palm sander and 150-grit paper (Image 1). This sanding will uncover any holes that need to be filled in.

Clean off the dust and sand with a shop vacuum.

Fill any holes with Portland cement and water mixed with dye. Use the same ratio as the initial concrete mix so the color will match. Take a glob out and fill in the holes by spreading the mixture with your fingers (Image 2). Be careful not to fill in any "inlay" design (ivy was used for this particular project) you may have used.

Let the filler mixture dry for at least 1-1/2 hours.

Scrape the excess filler off after it dries, and sand again. Remove the dust with a shop vacuum, and wipe with a damp rag.
Remove the effect (ivy leaf for this project) you used as an inlay. A great way to make the relief stand out is to trace it lightly (Image 3) with a pencil before sealing the countertop.
If possible, when sealing, it's best to raise the countertop onto dowels to be able to seal all the sides completely.
Seal concrete with water-based sealer, rolling it on with a paint roller and a 2” paint brush. Let the sealer dry for a couple of hours.

Sand with 150-grit sandpaper again, and clean with a damp rag.

Wax the top of the cement counter with food-safe wax.

Be sure to wax your new countertop at least once a month to build a protective layer and to maintain the shine.
After the wax dries, buff the countertop with a power buffer (Image 4). You can do this buffing by hand, but a power buffer creates a more uniform finish.

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12 Step 7: Install the Countertop

Before preparing the cabinet tops to receive the countertop, place short 2” x 4”s (Image 1) across the cabinet tops. Rest the new concrete countertop on top of the 2” x 4”s.

To keep silicone from the cabinets, tape the edges of the cabinet surface where the new countertop will sit. Place a full bead of silicone along each edge (Image 2).
With several friends and colleagues working together, gently lower the countertop onto the cabinet tops.

Check the overhang alignment. Check for level.

Caulk the seams between new countertop and cabinets.

Enjoy your new concrete kitchen countertop.

How To Install Irrigation: Pipes and Fittings

2010-04-09T18:55:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Lay Out a Plan for the Irrigation System

Determine any potential obstacles -- such as trees -- that may block sprinkler patterns, as well as curves in the landscape design that might require special attention. Carefully measure property boundaries and record the numbers on a diagram of the layout. Use graph paper for the plan to allow the irrigation system to be drawn to scale and accurately plotted. Draw in the street, driveway, sidewalk, and house, as well as landscape elements such as flowerbeds, trees, etc.

Step 2: Pick the Best Irrigation System

Once the property layout is on paper, it's time to evaluate the various system components and sprinkler heads available and determine the best way to pull it all together. To start this process, learn the basic elements of an irrigation system and their respective features: Polyethylene pipe (Image 1) is the recommended choice for most irrigation systems. Flexible, lightweight, and highly durable, it's often referred to simply as "poly" (pronounced "polly"). While PVC pipe (Image 2) is probably more familiar to most people than poly pipe, it's generally not the best choice for irrigation systems. Its rigid composition and lack of flexibility can make it difficult to work with, especially in applications where curves and corners require a pliable material like poly. (The importance of flexibility will be evident in the upcoming installation.)

Step 3: Learn About the Installation Materials

Next, learn about the basic fittings used for a typical system assembly. Like the flexible tubing, these components are molded from polyethylene. Featured pieces include: The straight coupler (Image 1). This fitting is used to connect two pieces of pipe that meet at a certain point or to extend a length of pipe that's too short to reach the necessary area. The poly plug (Image 2). Shaped, appropriately, like a stop sign, the poly plug is used at the end of a pipe length to stop water at a designated point. The elbow coupler (Image 3). This piece is sometimes referred to simply as a "90", since it creates a 90-degree angle in a system of pipes. In short, it's used to change the direction of the water, allowing the system to turn a corner. The T-coupler (Image 4). This fitting is designed to join together three pipes at one intersection, either coming off a main line or leading to a valve. To control the release of the water into the pipes, electronic valves (Image 5) are integrated into the system.

Step 4: Create a Mock-Up

To illustrate how the valves will work with the pipes, create a T-formation mock-up of a section (Image 1), and connect with a T-coupler fitting. (The top pipe of the "T" sample represents the main line.) Coils of wire on top of each valve (Image 2) -- known as solenoids -- will connect them to the individual zones. Finally, a programmed clock will be wired to all valves in the system, activating them at the appropriate, pre-set times. Once signaled by the clock, each valve will open, letting water into its corresponding zone. In turn, the water will prompt the sprinkler heads to pop up and begin spraying their designated areas.

How to Build a Trellis Arbor and Gate

2010-04-09T18:36:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Remove the Fence Section

Instead of removing individual boards from the fence to accommodate the trellis, use mallets and hammers to knock the boards away from the posts and remove them in sections. Use mallets and hammers to remove individual boards, keeping them as intact as possible so they can be reused. Remove the posts that are in the way; the team used a utility loader with a bucket attachment to remove the posts and the concrete holding them in place.

Step 2: Dry-Fit the Trellis Pieces

The arbor and gate kit includes all of the pieces already cut to size. Check the parts against the instructions and dry-fit the pieces to make sure everything is included and fits properly. Use clamps to help hold the pieces in place for the dry-fit.

Step 3: Assemble the Trellis Top

Position the supports for the eave or top of the trellis on the ground. Assemble the eave by attaching the crosspieces; make sure to follow the instructions and use any aids provided, such as spacer blocks to make sure pieces are properly positioned. Attach the pieces with screws, countersinking the screw heads.

Step 4: Hide the Screw Heads

Apply a dab of wood glue in each screw countersinks and insert a wood peg in the hole to hide the screw head. Place a small block of wood over the peg and tap it with a hammer to seat the peg in the hole without denting the wood. Wipe away any excess glue and sand the peg flush with the wood. Repeat for all of the screw holes.

Step 5: Attach the Trellis Panels

Follow the manufacturer's instructions to fit the panels together. Run a bead of wood glue along the edge of each piece and press together, reinforcing with countersunk stainless steel screws. Fill the screw holes with wooden pegs.

Step 6: Assemble the Trellis

Move the trellis into its final position and make sure it's level. Use blocks of wood under the posts as needed to level the unit. For this project, the team dug a trench under one side of the trellis and braced the wood with a 4x4. Dry-fit the eave on top of the trellis, then attach it with wood glue and stainless steel screws.

Step 7: Attach the Gate

Use hinges to attach the gate to the trellis. Make sure the trellis is level and plumb so the gate swings properly.

Step 8: Install the New Posts and Fence Sections

Determine the position for the new posts so that they line up with the fence and will support the arbor trellis. Dig new post holes, place the new posts in the holes and check for plumb and level. Add concrete to the holes to hold the posts in place. Attach stringers from the existing fence to the new posts. Cut the fence boards as needed for an attractive transition from the fence to the arbor trellis and attach the boards to the stringers.

How to Maintain a Healthy, Weed-Free Lawn

2010-04-09T18:25:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Remove Existing Weeds

A few weeds are inevitable in most lawns. Pull weeds, roots and all, by hand or with a handheld weeder (three good types are: fishtail, leverage or Japanese) or hoe (either a garden or stirrup hoe will work). If the weeds are out of control, use an herbicide such as glyphosate for direct application to weeds or apply a weed-and-feed product to the entire lawn; follow the manufacturer's recommended application instructions. Be aware that these products are effective only when the weeds are properly identified and the product is applied at the right time of year.

Step 2: Dethatch the Lawn

Thatch, or the matted accumulation of organic debris between grass blades and roots, can cause dead patches in turf and open spaces for weeds to grow. Inspect the lawn for a one-inch layer of thatch. Use a thatching rake or power dethatcher to remove thatch. Afterwards, the lawn will look terrible, but it'll recover in about three to four weeks.

Step 3: Aerate the Lawn

Inspect turf for compaction problems. Dig a square-foot section of the lawn and examine the roots. If the roots don't extend deeper than 2 inches, then the lawn needs to be aerated. Water the lawn one to two days prior to aeration. Run a rented core aerator over the lawn once. Apply compost or sand over the aerated lawn.

Step 4: Apply Grass Seed to Bare Spots

In early spring or early fall, overseed a lawn with cool-season grass seed such as rye, fescue or Kentucky bluegrass, and overseed a warm-season lawn with Bermuda or Zoysia grass in early summer. For an even application of seed over the lawn, use a broadcast seed spreader. Water the seed to help it establish.

Step 5: Mow Grass Appropriately

A healthy lawn is denser and better able to resist weeds than a neglected one. Don't scalp the lawn; remove only about one-third off the top of the grass. Set the height of the mower deck so that the grass is about 2-1/2 to 3 inches tall. If the grass is taller, it helps to shade out weed seeds and prevent them from germinating. Alternate your mowing pattern by mowing at a 45- or 90-degree angle from your last mowing direction. This helps prevent soil compaction and also helps grass grow upright. Keep mower blades sharp.

Step 6: Water and Feed Grass

Provide adequate moisture to the grass, especially during periods of heat and drought. Apply turf fertilizer periodically throughout the year; follow the manufacturer's instructions.

How to Grow Cherries

2010-03-28T22:32:00.000-04:00

Sweet cherries are great for eating fresh, while tart ones are best for baking. Both can successfully be grown in many parts of the country.

Step 1: Purchase Cherry Trees

The two basic types of cherries are sweet and tart. Sweet cherries are great for eating fresh, while the tart ones are best for baking. To produce fruit, most cherries require another tree nearby for cross-pollination. Tart cherry trees are adaptable to a broader range of climates than sweet cherries. Popular sweet varieties include Black Tartarian and Stella. Popular tart varieties include Balaton and Montmorency.

Tip: As a general rule, sweet cherries grow best in zones 5 through 7, while tart cherries do best in zones 4 through 9.

Step 2: Prepare the Site

Cherry trees need at least six hours of full sun a day in order to produce fruit. Cherries also need good soil drainage in order to thrive. If the site is heavy with clay, amend it with plenty of organic compost and organic soil conditioners before planting. Tart cherries are more adaptable to a wider range of soils.

Step 3: Plant the Trees

Many cherries are sold as bare-root trees. Shake off any material clinging to the roots and soak the roots in a bucket of water for two hours before planting. Dig a hole the same depth and width as the roots. Place the tree in the hole and fan out the roots. Position the tree in the hole so that the graft union is 3" above the soil level. Backfill with soil until the hole is three-quarters full. Water well to settle the soil. Finish filling the hole and water again.

Step 4: Water, Feed and Cultivate the Trees

In the first year or two after being planted, cherry trees require regular watering. A layer of light mulch underneath the trees will help conserve water and keep down weeds. A common recommendation is to fertilize cherry trees in early spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10. In many areas of the country, insecticides and fungicides may be required for good harvests.

Step 5: Prune the Trees

The primary reasons for pruning are to encourage a tree to be more fruitful and to open up the tree so that the sunshine can reach most of the branches. The best time to prune any cherry is late winter or early spring. Your local cooperative extension service should have a free brochure on how to prune cherry trees.

Step 6: Protect the Blossoms From Late Frost

Cherry blossoms must be protected from spring frost damage, which can wipe out a year’s crop. If a late frost is predicted after fruit-bud set, place lightweight fabric over the tree to form a tent. Add a small heat source such as a light bulb on an extension cord.

Step 7: Protect the Fruit From Birds

Birds love cherries. As soon as the fruit begins to ripen, cover the trees with bird netting to protect the fruit. Make sure there are no gaps or openings in the netting. Secure the netting to the ground with bricks, stones or other weights.

Step 8: Harvest the Cherries

Cherries are among the earliest ripening fruits, being ready to harvest in late spring or early summer. Cherries increase in size until they're ripe. Sweet cherries become firm when ripe. Ripe cherries pull easily off the tree. Sweet cherries are typically picked stem and all. Tart cherries are usually picked without their stems.

Pruning Apple Trees

2010-03-28T22:27:00.000-04:00

Fruit trees must be pruned every year, usually during the dormant period. If you don't begin proper pruning early in the tree's life, the result is "alternate bearing," which means that one year's harvest is bountiful while the following year's is puny.

Apple trees are the most common fruit trees home gardeners choose to grow. Pruning is necessary in order to open up the tree canopy to sunlight and air circulation and promote fruit production and a healthy plant. Follow these tips to pruning your apple tree so you can reap a bountiful harvest year after year.

The Ideal Time to Prune Apple Trees

Apple trees should be pruned in late winter, but you can prune into the spring and summer if you must. Avoid pruning in the fall since this stimulates new growth at the same time the tree should be getting ready for winter. The new growth may not have a chance to harden off before cold temperatures and frost hit, which may lead to cold damage on the tree.

Pruning Tools

It's important to have the right tools for the job. Keep the following tools handy for when you prune:

Hand pruners. Use this tool to remove small branches and twigs. You'll probably use this tool the most, so keep them sharp and handy.

Loppers. Loppers have long handles and provide more leverage when pruning larger branches. They're typically used to prune branches larger than the width of your thumb, or about 1" diameter or more.

Folding saw. This tool is useful when pruning limbs larger than 3" in diameter.

Pole pruners. These consist of a blade attached to a long pole and are handy for reaching high branches.

Pruning

The first rule of pruning is to remove any dead, injured or diseased branches. When going to make a cut, look for the branch collar, which is the "wrinkled" part near the base where the branch is connected to the tree trunk. This portion of the tree has all the cells necessary to heal wounds. Never cut into the branch collar when pruning. Instead, make the cut just above the point where the branch collar flares.

During the first couple of years after planting, allow the tree to grow its roots and establish itself before doing any pruning. It's good to prune away dead, injured or diseased branches immediately after planting up to the third year.

Begin heavier pruning in the third year of growth. First, remove any dead, injured or diseased branches. Then moving up the tree, look for branch angles, or scaffolding branches which are branches that grow from the main trunk, preferably evenly spaced, at 45- or 50-degree angles. Leave these scaffolding branches for the basic framework of your tree.

Fruiting buds are dark-colored, wrinkled wood that grows from scaffolding branches. Leave these small branches since they're the ones that produce fruit. Trees begin to form fruiting buds at around three years of age.

Vegetative buds are similar in appearance to fruiting buds, but they're not so wrinkled and dark. These buds form leaves and new branches.

Remove any competing branches that will cause problems for the tree. Sometimes these branches create a hollow where water can collect and encourage rot. Look for branches growing toward the inside of the tree, and remove them to improve air circulation. When you remove a branch or a limb, the bud directly under the cut will take over and grow. For this reason, you should cut above outward-facing buds.

A fruit tree should have only one central leading branch. Don't allow two leader branches to form, or the tree will become weak. Identify the healthier or stronger leader, and remove the other. The ideal apple tree has one central leader surrounded by evenly spaced scaffolding branches that have plenty of fruiting spurs.

Tip: If your apple tree is lacking the scaffolding branches, or the lower branches that are actually good on an apple tree, you can force them to come out. Find a bud and use a knife to make a nick a millimeter above and below it. Then cut the notch between the nicks completely out, making sure to cut through the bark and the green layer beneath it. That will force the tree to grow a new branch on the spot.

Thinning Fruit

During seasons of good weather, the apple tree may produce an overabundance of fruit, causing fruit "crowding" on the branches and resulting in smaller-sized apples. In order to grow tasty, normal-sized apples, it may be necessary to thin out the fruit. Generally speaking, fruit should be spaced about 6 inches apart along the branches; thin out closely grown apples and select out the smaller-sized ones in favor of the larger fruits.

Growing Citrus Trees

2010-03-28T22:22:00.000-04:00

Regardless of whether your climate is tropical or wintry, learn how to grow your own citrus trees at home.

Citrus plants offer a wide array of juicy fruit, including oranges, lemons and grapefruits. You can grow your own right at home, even if you live in a colder climate. Here are some helpful tips for growing these tasty trees.

Freeze Protection

All citrus fruits are warm-weather plants that need protection from frost in cold-winter areas. If frost is predicted, move them inside if you live in a climate with prolonged cold temperatures and freezes. In milder climates further south, protect citrus trees from frost by using a floating row cover made from light landscape fabric. You can also use a bedsheet, piece of burlap or even newspaper. Provide some sort of support to prevent the covering from resting directly on the leaves, or they may freeze to the cover and become damaged in spite of your efforts. For small trees, an inverted tomato cage works well for support. For larger trees, use bamboo stakes. Use bricks to keep the wind from blowing away the covers.

Feeding Citrus Trees

Use a fertilizer formulated especially for citrus, as these plants have special requirements and prefer nitrogen and phosphorus. Follow the directions on the label exactly. If you live in a frost-prone area, fertilize after the last spring frost and stop fertilizing altogether by late summer. In rainy areas nutrients leach out of soil more quickly, so frequent smaller feedings are appropriate. Citrus plants may drop flowers if they're getting excess nitrogen.

Citrus Tree Maintenance

Citrus trees require a rich, fast-draining soil. Keep the soil moist but not wet at all times. Use a three-inch layer of mulch to cover the soil surface to prevent moisture loss. If your plants have yellow leaves, check for scale insects, which look like bumps on the stems and scrape off easily with your fingernail. If you find scale, use an insecticidal soap for control.

Growing Citrus in Containers

If you'd like to grow citrus trees but live in an area where they won't overwinter, why not grow them in pots? You can bring them indoors when it's cold and move them outside during warmer temperatures. To grow a citrus plant in a pot, choose a dwarf variety. Place a layer of rich, fast-draining potting soil in the bottom of the pot. Set the tree in place, and check the top of the root ball for correct planting depth. The top of the root ball should be two to three inches below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with potting soil, firming gently. Apply a light layer of soil on top of the root ball. Move the potted tree to a location in the warmest, sunniest part of the garden, and water well. At the threat of frost, move the pot to a warm, sunny location indoors.

How to Build a Garden Storage Bench

2010-03-28T22:14:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Create Two Sides

Use a circular saw to cut four 2x6 boards to lengths of 16 inches. Cut two 2x4 boards to lengths of 16 inches. Cut four pieces of 4x4 to lengths of 14 inches. To form each side, sandwich one of the 2x4 boards between two of the 2x6 boards. Position the 4x4 posts at both ends, laying them perpendicular to the boards. Secure with 3-inch galvanized deck screws.

Step 2: Create the Front and the Back

Use a circular saw to cut four 2x6 boards to lengths of 5 feet. Cut two 2x4 boards to lengths of 5 feet. Arrange the boards in the same fashion as with the sides, by sandwiching the 2x4 boards between the 2x6 boards. Attach the boards with 3-inch galvanized deck screws to the 4x4 posts on the side panels.

Step 3: Create the Seat

Use a circular saw to cut three 2x6 boards to lengths of 5 feet-6 inches. The seat will extend over the sides by a few inches. Cut two 2x6 boards to lengths of 10 inches. These are used to hold the seat boards together. Lay the boards side by side lengthwise. Position the 10-inch cleats across the boards near the ends. Be sure to center them so they fit inside the bench box. Secure with 3-inch galvanized deck screws.

Use Annuals to Add Garden Color

2010-03-28T22:10:00.000-04:00

Annuals can add a burst of color to your garden wherever you need it -- whether your garden is an extensive country plot or a set of containers on a city balcony.

Tuberous begonias are tender perennials typically grown as annuals. The upright forms make wonderful bedding plants; the pendulous ones look magnificent in hanging pots. The tubers should be planted in spring in rich soil or potting medium, with the concave side up and just the bottom half of the tuber buried. Once growth begins, apply 22-14-14 fertilizer every three weeks until flower buds begin to form. At that time, switch to 0-10-10 fertilizer, applied on the same schedule. Pick off flowers as they fade. When the plants begin to turn yellow in fall, withhold water. When the tops are completely dry, dig the tubers from the soil, and remove the tops. Dry them in the sun for a few days, then dust the tubers with sulfur powder or another fungicide to prevent rot. Store in paper containers in a cool, dry, dark place until planting time in spring.

Semperflorens begonias (also called wax begonias and fibrous begonias) are excellent bedding plants grown as annuals. In mild climates they may be overwintered. These free-flowering plants require little or no deadheading. Grow them in partial shade or indirect bright light, and provide regular doses of fertilizer.

Impatiens walleriana (busy Lizzie), a subshrubby perennial usually grown as an annual, requires filtered light or shade and a fast-draining soil rich in organic matter. If you plant from nursery six-packs, loosen the root ball gently, then place each plant in fresh potting soil, making sure you don't bury the crown of the plant. Water well after planting, then wait for the top 2" of soil to dry before watering again. Apply no fertilizer until plants begin to grow, then fertilize every two weeks with 0-10-10. Impatiens make good container or bedding plants.

New Guinea impatiens, a specific group of hybrids, are prized for their often dramatic foliage and bright flowers. They may be grown in sunny spots, unlike Impatiens walleriana.

Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) are short-lived perennials usually grown as annuals. They require full sun and well-drained soil. In mild-winter areas snapdragons may be grown as a winter annual. Snapdragons are susceptible to rust, a fungus disease. To help prevent the disease, avoid overhead watering.

Most Pelargoniums, or geraniums, are perennials grown as annuals in cold-winter climates. Most prefer full sun, but in hot climates afternoon shade is appreciated. Keep plants on the dry side. Pelargoniums perform best in areas with warm, dry days and cool nights. They may be grown outdoors year-round in mild California climates. Elsewhere they're popular bedding, container or indoor plants. Move plants indoors before cold weather begins, or take cuttings for next year. For best results indoors, set near a sunny window. Pelargoniums require rich, fast-draining soil and frequent pinching back to keep plants bushy. They are subject to infestation of white fly, spider mites and geranium bud worm. Fertilize during active growth to increase flower production.

Marigolds (Tagetes) are easy, dependable annuals that require full sun and well-drained soil. Many types are available, ranging in size from a few inches to a few feet in height. Marigolds come in white, yellow, red, orange and combinations of those colors. Many believe that marigolds help repel insect pests, so they're often planted in and around vegetable patches.

Scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) is a perennial typically grown as an annual. Red cultivars should be grown in full sun; pastel varieties need a little shade. Keep plants deadheaded for continuous summer bloom.

Top 10 Rules for Growing Veggies and Fruits

2010-03-20T12:34:00.000-04:00

Find the sun. Most vegetables want six hours of direct sun a day — and more if they can get it. Exceptions include lettuce and radishes, which can get by with less.

Start small. If you're beginning your first garden, help yourself avoid the feeling of being overwhelmed with weeding and general maintenance. You can grow a surprising amount of food in a bed just 10-foot square.

Build up your soil. The foundation of a healthy, productive garden is a rich, well-draining, crumbly soil that has good tilth. Liberally add organic matter such as finished compost, bagged humus and straw.

Time your crops. Soil temperatures matter as much as air temperature when you're planting. Even peas, which are spring crops that are resistant to light frost once they're growing, won't germinate when the soil is below 39 degrees.

Be ready to supply cover if a late frost hits. Here, early-spring veggies grow under plastic.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. You wouldn't think twice about mulching your ornamental beds, so do the same with your veggie and fruit plantings. Keeping a layer of organic mulch over this radicchio's shallow roots helps conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Anticipate animals pests. To a raccoon these young corn plants mean dinner in the making, once the ears are fully developed. Talk to your neighbors and try to learn what pests to expect in your area. With the right kind of fencing, you can deter raccoons, rabbits, groundhogs, deer, dogs and other unwelcome visitors.

Mingle your plants. Too much of the same kind of plant in a grouping sends "eat here" messages to bad bugs. Here, squash, peppers and beans share the space.

Stay on top of the harvest. Pick produce when it's ready. Removing beans as they mature allows more of the plant's energy to go into supporting the later fruit that forms.

You don't have to hide your vegetable garden. Where you can, find a way to integrate your fruit and veggie garden with an area of your yard where you tend to hang out. When the crops are close at hand, you're much more likely to pluck off a bad bug or give a thirsty plant a drink.

How to Care for a New Tree

2010-03-18T18:12:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Evaluate the Yard

Learn the mature size of the tree before you get started planting. It's one of the most common mistakes gardeners make, and the result is a tree that runs into power lines or that grows too big for its space and needs to be pruned every year. Too much pruning leads to stubs and stubs lead to rot and the rot leads to the death of some vertical limbs. Make sure you know the conditions your tree needs to grow so it can thrive. For example, a tree that needs a lot of moisture will not do well in a dry climate. Determine what you want the tree to do for your landscape. Different trees offer different things from the wow factor of cool bark to the shade from a standard maple. Choose between deciduous and evergreen. This is especially important if you are planting for privacy. You don't want to be surprised when your tree selection turns barren each winter. Different is good! Don't plant the same tree that everybody else in the neighborhood has. Not only is planting the same tree boring but it can also lead to trouble. For example, Dutch Elm Disease has wiped out trees in neighborhood after neighborhood over the last 50 years. When one tree gets sick they all get sick.

Step 2: Follow These Tree-Buying Guidelines

Trees will generally be the most expensive plants on your landscape shopping list. To get your money's worth, buy a good, healthy tree. Check out the leaves. You want a tree with healthy foliage. A few insect-damaged leaves is not a problem, and if you find a tree with some yellowing leaves, that's not a problem either as long as it's limited to about 10-percent of the foliage. Check the leaves for chlorosis, lack of vigor or a lack of new growth. Next, check the trunk of the tree. It should be straight. The bark should be unblemished. Cracks or soft spots can indicate frost or fungal damage. Check the rootball. If it's a balled and burlapped tree, dig down below the soil line to determine the depth it grew in the nursery and check for any girdling rope or wire that can "strangle" a tree. If it's in a container, shake the container gently to see if it's well-rooted.

Step 3: Plant the Tree

You can dig a hole yourself or use an auger. An auger is a machine that has a big motor and a big drill that goes into the ground. If you have a lot of trees or a big hole to dig, an auger, even though it cost $200 or so to rent for a day, is a real time saver. First, cut the container before putting the tree in the hole. Then, don't be afraid to roll the tree on its side to make planting easier. Then, gently lower the tree into the hole and watch to make sure it's centered and not crooked. If you can, get a couple people to help if you're planting a bigger tree. It's important to remember to grab the trunk not the limbs. Don't rush the process. Get the tree right before adding any more soil. After the tree is in the ground, make sure to build a berm around the tree. The raised area of soil directs rainwater down to the root system of the tree where it really needs it for the first year or so. A berm is a narrow ledge typically at the top or bottom of a slope — a mound of earth or sand. Finally, add mulch. Mulch conserves moisture in the soil. A new tree needs a lot of moisture in order to establish itself. A berm also keeps lawnmowers from rolling into the trunk of the tree and damaging that plant you just put in the ground.

Step 4: Water the Tree

There are several tools to help water a tree. A tree ring drips water right around the trunk of the tree, right down to the root ball. It's really easy to use with a water hose. If you don't have a water hose nearby, you might want to use something different this is called a tree gator. A tree gator is just a big bag that is filled full of water and drips down to the root system of the tree. It holds about 14 gallons of water. You fill it up every couple of days and it waters the tree very nicely.

How to Install Track Lighting in a Bathroom

2010-03-17T18:51:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Install the Mounting Bracket and Track

Attach the mounting bracket to the ceiling, then snap the track into the bracket.

Image 1 Image 2

Step 2: Measure, Then Install the Screw Anchors

Measure out from the wall to make sure both sides of the track are equal distance from the wall.

Mark the support holes with a pencil.

Drill holes on the marks with a 1/2" spade bit.

Install screw anchors into the holes.

Step 3: Install the Lights

Swing the track into position, then tap the anchors into place with a hammer and tighten.

Slide and snap the lights onto the track

How to Build a Raised Vegetable Bed

2010-03-17T18:36:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Determine the Location

Most veggies require a lot of sunshine to produce a good harvest, so select a location for the raised bed that receives at least eight hours of direct sun. Choose a level, well-draining site and near a water source.

Step 2: Build the Frame

Place the 4 1" x 12" boards so that the ends meet to form a square box. Mark the locations of the four corners of the box, move aside the lumber and dig 1'-deep holes for the 4" x 4" posts. Place a post in each hole and backfill the soil. Firmly press the soil around each post to stabilize it. Then replace the 1" x 12" boards into the square box shape and attach them to the posts with screws or nails.

Step 3: Loosen the Soil

Using a shovel or spading fork, dig and turn the soil inside the frame to a depth of about 12." This depth is required, not because the vegetables' roots will grow that deeply, but to allow water from rainfall or irrigation to drain properly through the soil.

Step 4: Fill the Frame with Soil Amendments

Thoroughly mix the topsoil and soil amendments, such as humus, sand and manure, together inside the frame and rake it smooth. This mixture containing rich soil, nutrients and sand in a loose configuration provides good drainage. This is critical since good drainage produces healthy roots and, in turn, results in full-bodied plants and tasty veggies.

Step 5: Plant the Veggies

Select an assortment of cool- or warm-season veggies in the appropriate time of the year. Lay them out in the raised bed according to their spacing requirements. Use a trowel to dig a hole big enough to accommodate each rootball, place the plant carefully in the hole and backfill with soil. Water plants thoroughly. Place stakes around the veggies that need them. Add a two- to three-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plants.

Install an Under-Sink Water Purifier

2010-03-16T02:12:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Disconnect the Water Supply

Below the sink, shut off the cold-water supply to the faucet. Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect and remove the tubing that connects the faucet and supply valve.

Step 2: Connect the Water Filter

The filter is installed between the cold-water supply and the faucet, in the space where the rigid line was removed. Flexible supply-lines are usually included in the filter kit. Use one to connect the water supply to the filter inlet, and the other to connect the faucet tubing to the filter outlet (Image 1).

Wrap all male fittings with Teflon tape to ensure a watertight seal (Image 2).

Compression fittings, also included in the kit, are used to connect the flexible supply lines. Each fitting includes a compression nut, sleeve and ferrule (Image 3). When making a connection, seat the plastic (or brass) ferrule into the male receptacle and hand-tighten the nut. If water leaks from the fitting when you turn on the supply valve, use a wrench to tighten the nut an additional quarter turn.

Connect the flexible supply line from the water filter inlet to the home’s cold water supply (Image 4).

Connect the flex-line from the water filter outlet to the kitchen faucet tubing (Image 5).

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Image 4

Image 5

Step 3: Install the Water Filter

Mount the canister to the back wall of the cabinet beneath the sink (Image 1). Make sure the canister is mounted high enough to allow sufficient clearance to remove the canister body when it's time to change the filter (Image 2).

Check and follow the manufacturer's instructions on the recommended frequency for changing the filter

How to Install Laminate Flooring

2010-03-16T01:51:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Stack the Laminate Flooring Before Installation

Temperature and humidity can affect flooring planks. Acclimate the flooring in the house for 48 hours before installation. Stack the laminate flooring being used flat on the floor. Remove any plastic wrapping from the boxes and leave air space around each box to allow air to freely circulate around them. Have about 10 percent more flooring than the square feet of area of the room since you'll waste just a little when cutting some pieces.

Step 2: Clean the Subfloor, Remove Base Molding

Clean the subfloor to make sure it's free of any dirt and debris. If installing on top of a new concrete floor wait until the floor is fully cured. Using a pry bar and hammer, carefully remove all base molding (if necessary) and place it out of the way.

Step 3: Install the Vapor Barrier

Start by laying out the vapor barrier one row at a time from the longest wall of the room. When joining two sheets of barrier together, follow the manufacturer's directions. Some manufacturers will have you overlap the vapor barrier and some will have you butt each row against the previous one.

Step 4: Trim the Door Jambs

Lay a piece of flooring flat on the subfloor and up against the door jambs. Use it as a guide to mark the jambs so that the new flooring can slide underneath the jamb. Use a “flat” saw or a coping saw to cut the jambs, making sure to cut parallel to the subfloor. This will give the floor and jamb a nice finished look without having to remove the entire jamb.

Step 5: Install the First Row

For the best appearance, lay planks parallel to the longest wall. Install the first plank with the groove toward the wall. Place 1/2" spacers against the wall and push the first plank up against them. These spaces create an expansion gap so that the floor can "breathe" (expand and contract) and not warp or buckle. This gap will be covered later with base molding. The spacers also allow the floor to have a firm base to install against. Place the spacers about every 12 inches along the wall and at the end of each plank against adjoining walls.

Step 6: Install the Flooring

For each plank, match tongue to groove and tap it into place using a scrap piece of flooring to protect the planks. Make sure the pieces fit snugly together and that there are no gaps along the length of the planks. While installing subsequent rows, stagger the joints of the flooring. When starting a new row, offset it six to eight inches so the joints at the ends of planks are not lined up row to row (which can weaken the floor and create a too-uniform look).

Step 7: Install the Last Plank

The last plank will need to be trimmed to fit. To mark the plank to the correct width place a plank directly over the next to last plank and place another on top of that and slide the top plank until it sits evenly against spacers against the wall. Draw a line along the plank below the top plank along the edge of the top plank. This will mark the width of the gap between the next to the last plank and the wall. Rip cut the plank along this line and install.

Step 8: Install Thresholds and Base Molding

Install any thresholds between the end of the flooring and any open doors where the flooring ends. Thresholds come in different styles to accommodate the kind and height of the flooring the new laminate floor butts up against. Remove the spacers and install base molding to cover the expansion gap.

How to Grow Strawberries

2010-03-16T01:34:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Purchase the Plants

There are two main types of strawberry plants: June-bearing and ever-bearing. The first produces one large crop of berries in early summer. The second produces a crop in early summer and then continues to bear fruit sporadically until frost. Strawberries are typically grown from bare-root plants.

Step 2: Prepare the Site

Strawberries grow best in sunny spots with fertile, well-drained soil. Work a generous amount of compost into the garden bed before planting. Using a hoe, form raised rows in the garden spaced about 4' apart.

Step 3: Plant the Strawberries

In early spring, dig small holes every 24" in the rows. Keep the roots in water to avoid drying out during the planting process. Place the strawberry plants in the holes and fan out the roots. Make sure the crown, the portion between the leaves and the roots, is even with the soil surface. Gently firm the soil around the roots, backfill with soil, and water well.

Step 4: Pinch the Blooms

Pinch off any blooms that form during the first growing season. This allows the plant to focus its energy on developing runners. A runner is a shoot that grows out from the main plant and develops into a second plant. This creates a thick, vigorous row of strawberry plants.

Step 5: Cultivate the Strawberries

Give the strawberries 1" to 1-1/2" of water per week. During the first summer, fertilize the strawberries twice using 10-10-10 fertilizer. It is essential to keep the berry patch well weeded. Add a generous layer of mulch to control weeds and conserve moisture.

Step 6: Protect the Plants

To protect the berries from birds, cover the plants with bird netting as soon as the berries start to form. In cold climates, add a thick layer of winter mulch in late fall to protect the plants from freeze damage. In early spring, pull back the mulch from the plants.

Step 7: Harvest the Strawberries

Different strawberry varieties ripen to different colors. The best test is the taste test. If the berries are sweet and juicy, they are ready to pick. For the best quality, pick berries in the morning and refrigerate them as soon as possible.

How to Grow Tomatoes

2010-03-16T01:17:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Purchase the Plants

Tomatoes come in two main varieties, heirlooms and hybrids. Heirloom varieties have been cultivated for generations, and are prized for their characteristic shapes, sizes and flavors. Hybrids are genetically bred to be disease resistant and increase yields. While more reliable, the plants are said to produce less flavorful fruits. Popular heirloom varieties include Brandywine and Mortgage Lifter. Popular hybrid varieties include Early Girl and Better Boy.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Tomatoes require lots of sun and heat to thrive. Select a site in the garden that receives at least six hours of direct sun per day. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. Work a good amount of organic material and compost into the beds before planting. For an added nutrient boost, add some 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Step 3: Build the Tomato Cages

Using wire snips, cut 60"-tall wire-mesh fencing to a length of 60" for each plant. To turn the wire mesh into a tomato cage, join the ends to form a cylindrical tower. Fasten the cages by connecting the ends to one another with wire. Place mesh cages where you intend to place each tomato plant. Secure by attaching to 6' wooden stakes driven deep into the soil.

Tip: To increase yields, many tomato gardeners add a layer of reflective red plastic, called red mulch, to the surface of the soil before planting.

Step 4: Plant the Tomatoes

Well after the final spring frost date, it is okay to plant the tomato transplants. Snip off the bottom leaves from the plants and set in holes about six inches deeper than where they sat in their pots. Tomatoes have a unique ability to grow new roots from their stems. Water well immediately.

Step 5: Water, Mulch and Feed

Tomatoes require frequent and deep waterings. It is important to maintain a consistent moisture level in order to prevent blossom-end rot, a disease that ruins the fruit. When the soil has had a chance to warm up, lay down a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to help conserve moisture. When fruit begins to set, work additional fertilizer into the soil around the base of the plants.

Step 6: Harvest the Tomatoes

When ripe, a tomato will pull easily from the vine. Grab firmly but gently and twist to remove the fruit. Be careful not to break the main stems when harvesting. If a frost is in the forecast, remove all fruit, ripe or not, and store inside to ripen.

How to Install an Easy Heat Floor

2010-03-14T19:45:00.001-04:00

Step 1: Dry Fit the Mat

NOTE: Electrical inspection may be required before, during and/or after installation of the Easy Heat mat. Contact your local electrical inspection authority for more information.

After electrical installation is complete, confirm that the mat you have selected is suitable by laying it onto the floor (with the mesh side on the floor) and fitting it into the area to be heated.

If you are not working with a rectangular-shaped floor, you can cut the mesh and support strands to configure the mat to the appropriate shape.
DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE!
Do not space heating cable further apart than recommended, as the floor will not warm to a comfortable temperature in these areas.

TIP: You only need to lay the mat in areas where you will stand; heat will spread throughout the floor.

Step 2: Install Thermostat Sensor

If a floor-sensing thermostat will be used to control the system, install the thermostat sensor wire to ensure it is embedded in the mortar.

Step 3: Attach Mat to Subfloor

With a staple gun, staple down the mat to the subfloor. Be sure to not staple through any of the electrical cords.

Step 4: Apply Mortar and Set Tiles

Cover the complete mat with a uniform scratch coat of mortar that is level with the heating cables. Scratch coat should be level and extend over the entire floor area, including areas not being warmed. The mat strands can be partially exposed. Once the scratch coat is dry, set the tiles in the usual manner.

How to Create a Fabric Headboard

2010-03-14T19:41:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Mark and Drill the Plywood

Mark the center point of the plywood and use a yardstick to draw a line across the diagonal with a pencil. Then draw an intersecting diagonal and with a pencil mark the point where the two lines meet . Maintaining the diagonal pattern, mark the entire surface with spots for more buttons, 12" apart. Put on safety glasses. Then use a power drill with a medium bit to drill holes through all the pencil-marked spots.

Step 2: Arrange the Fabric and Batting

Pick a piece of upholstery-weight fabric that is 6" or so longer than the piece of plywood on all sides. Lay it on a sturdy work surface, with the side you want to show facing down. Cut batting a few inches longer than the piece of plywood on all sides. Place it on top of the face-down fabric. Top it with a same-size piece of thin batting foam. Center the drilled plywood on top of the three layers of material -- fabric, batting and batting foam.

Step 3: Attach the Fabric to the Plywood

Pull the foam, batting and material snugly over each corner of the wood and staple it. Do the same to cover the hard edges on the sides of the board.

Step 4: Sew the Buttons Onto the Headboard

Select large buttons, possibly ceramic or antique glass. Secure them to the fabric-covered board with a large needle and upholstery thread: start by threading the needle through the drilled hole on the uncovered side of the plywood. To get the buttons secured tightly on the plywood, lay a finish nail on its side over each of the drilled holes on the back of the plywood. Once you've finished sewing each button, tie the ends to the finish nail. If you want a tufted look, with the buttons recessed in the fabric, twist the nail several times clockwise. This will create tension in the upholstery thread that will pull the button into the cushion-backed fabric.

Step 5: Hang the Headboard

Hang the headboard with mirror hangers equidistant from the center of the headboard. Use the shortest screws that come with the kit -- you don't want the headboard to tilt out from the wall and hit people on the head. Use a level and an anchor if you can't find or don't have a wall stud available.

How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash

2010-03-14T19:37:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Prepare the Substrate

Ensure that the substrate is sound and ready for tiling by screwing, nailing or use construction adhesive to secure drywall, cement board, plywood or other type of backing. Next, tape, plaster, or “mud” the seams on the surface to be tiled for smooth transitions. This is especially important when using sheet tiles of smaller dimensions. Finally, be sure the surface is free of all dust, oils or residues to guarantee a strong adhesive bond.

Step 2: Determine Best Location to Start Tiling

Measure and scope the installation site to determine best location to start tiling. The idea is to hide cuts in corners and under cabinets and leave the full tiles in areas that draw the most attention. You can do this by either drawing level lines or snapping chalk box lines to be used as guidelines, or by relying on the level surface provided by the cabinets or countertops as a guide.

Step 3: Apply Mortar

Begin spreading the glue (mastic) or mortar with the flat side of the trowel to ensure good adhesion.

Next, flip the trowel over to the notched side and double back over the glued area to remove excess adhesive. The notches create a uniform application, which will be flattened as the tile is laid and pressed onto the wall. The size of the trowel’s notches should be determined by the thickness of the tile used. Larger tiles can use a wider notch, but very small tiles should stick with tight notches. The mastic should be applied thoroughly to the wall, but take care not to apply it too thickly, or it will squeeze out between the tiles and may not fully dry.

Step 4: Install Tiles

Begin installing the first tile/sheet by working off of the countertop surface. This will ensure a level installation because the cabinet/countertop surface will have already been leveled during installation. It also allows cut tiles to be hidden under the upper cabinets, where they will remain out of sight.

Step 5: Make Cuts

A dry cutter, wetsaw and/or tile nippers may be used to make cuts to fit around electrical boxes, cabinets or mosaic inlays. Tile saws, while expensive, can be rented at many hardware and tool rental locations for $45 to 70 per day, and they will save you a lot of time and aggrevation in the long run.

How to Grow Pepper Plants

2010-03-14T19:31:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Purchase Plants

Garden stores sell pepper plants in a wide variety of colors. Pepper plants are best started from transplants rather than from seed. Look for seedlings that have thicker stems and that aren't flowering yet. It is better for the pepper plant to spend its energy growing roots rather than fruit in its earliest stages.

Step 2: Prepare Site

Pepper plants like hot and sunny weather, but the fruits themselves need to be shaded. Choose a location that gets full morning sun, but less afternoon light as the sun can slip under the foliage and scald the ripening fruit. Use a pitchfork to turn the soil and work in some compost or slow-release 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Step 3: Plant Peppers

Well after the fear of frost has passed, place plants in the ground at the same level they were in the pot. Space plants and rows about a foot and a half apart. Water well. Mark the plants with garden markers. Place a layer of plastic mulch around the plants to help conserve moisture, provide warmth, and prevent the spread of soil-borne diseases.

Step 4: Feed and Water

Peppers should receive about an inch of water every week. Fertilize or compost when plants reach half size, and again when they begin setting fruit. If plastic mulch was not used, place a thick layer of mulch around the plants to prevent weeds and retain moisture.

Step 5: Harvest Peppers

Peppers can be harvested and eaten at any stage, though green peppers are normally left on the plants until fully grown. Colored peppers can be eaten green or left on the plant until their colors fully develop. Ripe peppers will easily separate from the plant, but it is a good idea to use pruning shears to remove immature fruit.

How to Build a Simple Deck

2010-03-14T19:26:00.001-04:00

Materials and Tools:

circular saw
mitersaw
reciprocating saw
drillimpact
wrench level and measuring tape
post hole digger and shovel
shims
string line
pressure-treated 2x8x10 lumber
pressure-treated 2x10x10 lumber
pressure-treated 2x8x8 lumber
pressure-treated 4x4x8 lumber
composite decking2x8 joist hangers and nails
composite decking screws
3/8" lag bolts with washers3/8"
carriage bolts with nuts and washers
bundle furring strips for temp bracing
concrete mix
J-bolt-style
post anchors
adjustable post caps
flashing material

Before you begin, check local municipality to find out the required building codes for your area.

It's important to draw up a set of plans that takes all of your uses for the deck into consideration. To determine the amount of materials needed, multiply the length by the width of the deck, taking into account stairways and railings. Take these measurements to a home center, they will help you determine amount of materials and what size boards and posts you'll need based on your specific plans. Always add 10 percent to the final figure for waste.

Steps:

1. Cut away siding if necessary and install flashing to protect the siding on your house. Install it around the entire perimeter where the deck will meet the house. Bend 2 inches of the flashing at a 90-degree angle and cut out for doorways or window frames based on the width of the opening. Flashing must fit under doorway or window frames, The best way to work with flashing is to use tin snips or score it, then cut it. You may have to remove nails to be able to slide the flashing under the siding. Nail into place.

2. Start laying out your materials. Determine the placement of the joists on the ledger board, marking for one every 16 inches on center. It’s best to have the bolts that will attach the ledger to the house centered in between the where the joists will sit. Place a mark 8 inches in from each side of 16-inch marks. Don’t cut the ledger board to length yet, just in case you have to make adjustments.

3. To give the deck adequate support it is best to bolt the ledger through the house. If you have a basement or crawl space, try to attach the ledger all the way through to the inside. Predrill for the bolts from the inside. From the outside, hold the ledger board in place, just underneath the drill holes, measure and mark so the drill holes will line up correctly to sit in between where you marked for the joists. Adjust and cut the ledger board to the correct length. Bolt the ledger board to the house.

4. Mark the foundation with string line, then mark the footing and post locations.

5. Dig the footers. Local building codes require us to dig the holes 12” wide by 36” deep to go below our frost line. Check your local building codes to find out the size of your footings. Mix the concrete and pour into the hole. Allow the concrete to set for one week.

6. Once the concrete is set, secure post anchors and J-bolts to the concrete. Make sure the bolts are level and plumb. Install the posts, also making sure they are level and plumb. Cut the tops of the post to line up level with the bottom of the ledger.

7. To create the beam that will sit on top of the posts, cut a 2x10 to the length of the deck then cut another 2x10 three inches shorter than that length. Lay the two 2x10 together with the longer board overhanging the shorter by 1-1/2" on each side. Nail the boards together so you have a double-thick beam. Attach the adjustable post caps to the tops of the posts. Place the beam on top of the posts and secure.

8. Add side pieces to connect the ledger to the beam. Attach a side-rim joist hanger to the ledger opposite the 1-1/2" notch on the beam that you just made. Screw the side beams to the front beam and to the post, then to the ledger.

9. Install joist hangers on the ledger board and on the inner side of front beam making sure they are sitting directly across from one another and are at the same height

10. Mark and cut your joists to run from the ledger board to the front beams. Seat the joists into the hangers and fasten with nails. Check your level, square and plumb often. Add any required blocking for stability.

11. Start laying the decking boards. If using composite material, use the manufacturer’s recommended fasteners. If using lumber, remember to keep a gap between boards to allow for expansion and contraction. To keep the gaps uniform, insert a 10-penny nail into the gap, place the next decking board up against it and screw it into place. Insert two screws at every joist.

12. Finish laying the decking boards, running the ends wild. Line up a chalk line with the outer edge of the posts and pop a chalk line marking a 1-1/2" overhang. Repeat on the other side of the deck. Then saw along the chalk line.

13. For the railing, measure and notch out a support posts that will attach to the side of the deck. Bolt the posts to the outer joists at every corner and at least every 6 feet. Cut the rails to size. Attach the balusters to the top and bottom rails. Insert the rail section in between the post.

How to Install a Storm Door From a Kit

2010-03-14T19:19:00.000-04:00

Step 1: Measure the Opening and Check the Door Jamb

Start by measuring the opening to determine the proper size door to buy. While you're measuring, make sure the doorjamb and surrounding trim are solid, level and plumb. Storm doors can be installed to open to the left or to the right. You'll find it more convenient to install your storm door so that the handle is on the same side as the handle on the door behind the storm door.

Step 2: Cut the Hinge Frame and Remove the Glass

Mark the hinge frame at a length 1/8" less than that of the doorframe opening. With the hacksaw, cut the hinge frame to size. The glass makes up a considerable percentage of the weight of the door. Remove the glass from the storm door before installing it to make the process easier.

Step 3: Attach the Hinge Frame and Hinges

Screw two screws in the middle of the hinge frame into the jambs to hold the door in place.
Attach jamb screws at each of the hinges. Check the fit by opening and closing the door. Finish securing the drip cap by screwing it to the jamb.

Step 4: Measure and Cut the Frame

Measure the latch side of the doorframe and cut the frame 1/8" smaller than the measurement.

Step 5: Add the Rubber Sweeps

Remove the expander sweep from the door . Slide the rubber sweeps into the channels in the bottom of the door Crimp the ends of the channels to hold the sweeps in place. Trim excess sweep material, allowing a 1/8" overhang on the sides. Reattach the expander, with the screw side facing in

Step 6: Install the Doorknob

Your storm door may include a template, which will help you determine where to drill your holes for the door hardware Drill the holes for your doorknob and lock, line up the knob and lock, and insert them into the holes beginning with the exterior pieces. Then insert the interior pieces, and screw them into place.

Deadbolt locks are sometimes provided with new storm doors. These locks are installed in the same way as standard doorknobs

Step 7: Attach the Striker Plate and Stop Washer

Attach the striker plate and slide the stop washer into the closer.

Step 8: Assemble the Closer Unit

Assemble the entire closer unit with brackets on each end of the closer. Hold the closer level at the height recommended by the manufacturer and mark the bracket location on the door and doorjamb. Secure the closer to the door and doorjamb with screws.

How to Install a Ceramic Tile Floor

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Step 1: Take Measurements of the Room

Begin by taking measurements of the room.

Step 2: Cut the Cement Board

Use those measurements to cut the cement board to size. This material is hard, but not too difficult to cut through. Use a razor knife to score one side, then turn the board over to finish the cut. Use caution when cutting to avoid pulling the mesh off the board.

Step 3: Lay Out the Pieces

Once all the pieces are cut, lay them out on the floor to make sure it's a snug fit.

Step 4: Secure the Cement Board

Secure the cement board to the floor using a screw-gun or cordless drill with screwdriver attachment. Use special cement-board screws, and place them every 6 to 8 inches.

Tip: You can start the screws in the cement board by tapping the tip in with a hammer. Then use the screw gun to set the screws fully.

Step 5: Mark the Center of the Room

With the cement board in place, measure to find the center of the room. Mark it by snapping two chalk lines that intersect at the room's center point.

Step 6: Lay Out the Tile

The patterned tile comes in sheets that are about 1-foot square. The individual tiles are attached on the underside with rubber "dots." The dots serve two purposes: they hold the tiles together in the patterned sheets and also act as spacers to create even grout lines. The rubber dots are easy to cut through when it's necessary to separate tiles.
Lay out the tile using as many full sheets as possible.

Step 7: Spread the Adhesive

Work in small sections, lifting out the tiles and spreading the adhesive. Spread the adhesive smoothly and evenly with a square-notched trowel. You'll want the adhesive to be about as thick as the tiles you're working with.
Lay the center section first, then you can tackle the tricky cuts around the edges of the room. Spread as much adhesive as possible before it dries. To determine how quickly the adhesive dries, check the open time on the product container.

Step 8: Set the Sheet of Tiles in Place

Set the first sheet of tiles into place and press it firmly into the adhesive. For the second sheet, remember to line up the pattern and check the spacing and then set it into place.

Step 9: Cover the Center of the Floor

Work around the room until the entire center of the floor is covered.

Step 10: Cover the Perimeter of the Room

For the perimeter of the room, trim full sheets to fit. We started at the door and worked our way around, measuring and cutting tiles and sheets as necessary to fill the area.

Step 11: Cut the Tile

The easiest way to cut tile is with a wet saw. It uses with water to keep the blade from getting too hot as it makes the cuts. Set the length wanted and guide the tile through the blade. Rent a wet saw for this project from a local rental center. Just remember to get safety gear and follow proper safety precautions as well.

Step 12: Follow These Tips

To cut a tile sheet, flip it over and use a utility knife to cut the rubber dots, then pop out the piece. This technique is handy to cut out a piece of tile to fit around the toilet or any plumbing pipes (Image 1).

If you have any small cuts buy a pair of tile nippers. The key to working with these is to be patient and cut off a little bit at a time (Image 2).

When mixing grout make sure it is creamy and easy to spread. Using the tile sheets, put grout onto the tiles then spread it with a rubber grout float.

Let it set for about 20 minutes then wipe the tiles with a damp sponge. Once the grout has hardened, wipe off the haze and buff the tiles with a dry cloth (Image 3).

Make sure to seal the grout to help keep it clean. For new grout, wait a week to 10 days then apply a silicone sealer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the sealer product selected.

Pattern tile now comes in pre-joined, grout-ready sheets that makes installation easy.

Adding ceramic tile to a home is somewhat time-consuming, but once it's done, you're likely to be pleased with the final results.