Bags Packed - Checked In and Curious

Zion & Bryce Canyon: A Week of Adventures, Adrenaline, and Unforgettable Memories

2026-10-14T00:31:05.683-04:00

July 2026 | Utah & Arizona

How It All Began

My youngest niece had recently graduated from high school. When asked what she would like as a graduation gift, her answer was simple: "A unique experience."

Now, that was an invitation I couldn't resist!

I had always wanted to hike Angel's Landing at Zion National Park, one of the most iconic and thrilling hikes in the world. And thus, the idea was born. What better graduation gift than an adventure that would challenge us, take us out of our comfort zones, and hopefully create memories that would last a lifetime?

There was just one small problem. My niece had gone on plenty of walks, but she had never done any serious hiking.

So, our training began.

Our first adventure was the Billy Goat Trail, Section A, in Maryland. For those familiar with the trail, it's relatively short but offers some moderately difficult rock scrambling. I wasn't quite sure how my niece would take to it. But to my delight, she scrambled over those rocks like a nimble mountain goat! Not only was she completely comfortable navigating the rocky terrain, but she also emerged as a budding leader, spotting trail markers and confidently guiding her little band of mature adults through the rocks.

A new hiking enthusiast was born that day!

Encouraged by her enthusiasm, we continued our preparations with hikes at Cedar Run, Old Rag, and a few other trails in the Shenandoah Mountains. By the time July arrived, we were ready—or at least we thought we were!

From Las Vegas to the Magical Antelope Canyon

In July 2026, we finally embarked on our much-anticipated weeklong trip to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks.

We flew into Las Vegas, rented a car, and drove straight to Page, Arizona, our first stop. The following morning, we visited Lower Antelope Canyon, and what a spectacular beginning to our adventure!

Located on Navajo Nation land, Antelope Canyon is a dramatic slot canyon carved over millions of years by the relentless forces of wind and water. Both Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons can only be visited through guided tours operated by Navajo-owned tour companies.

Calling this a "hike" might be a bit of an exaggeration. The tours are relatively easy-paced, lasting approximately 90 minutes to two hours. However, Lower Antelope Canyon does involve navigating narrow passageways and climbing up and down ladders and stairs, making it unsuitable for wheelchair users or those with significant mobility limitations.

But the scenery! Dramatic is an understatement.

The canyon walls twist and curve into the most extraordinary shapes, with shades of red, orange, amber, and gold changing constantly as sunlight filters through the narrow openings above. Every turn reveals another incredible formation, almost as if nature had spent centuries sculpting an enormous work of art.

Our guides, young Navajo men and women, were friendly, knowledgeable, and clearly proud of their heritage.

One of the most memorable moments came when our guide suddenly pulled out a flute and began playing a beautiful traditional melody. The sound echoed through the narrow canyon walls, filling the space with hauntingly beautiful music. For a few moments, everyone fell silent. It felt almost as if we were listening to a symphony performed by nature itself.

Absolutely mesmerizing.

Later, the guide demonstrated how the canyon formations had evolved, using just a handful of sand and a bottle of water. Such a simple explanation for something so magnificent!

It was one of those experiences where photographs, however beautiful, simply cannot do justice to what your eyes have witnessed.

Horseshoe Bend: Nature's Perfect Curve

From Antelope Canyon, we drove about 15–20 minutes to Horseshoe Bend.

A relatively short walk from the parking lot brought us to the overlook, where the Colorado River makes an almost perfect horseshoe-shaped turn around a massive sandstone formation.

Standing high above the river, with the sun behind us, we had an incredible view of the sweeping bend. Tiny boats drifted along the river far below, looking almost like toys against the enormous landscape.

Looking at the rock formations carved by the Colorado River over millennia, I was struck by the visible changes in water levels and the impact of human intervention and climate change on this fragile ecosystem.

Yet, standing before such an ancient landscape, I couldn't help thinking about the resilience of our planet. Humans may alter its course, but nature operates on a scale of time and magnitude that is difficult for us to comprehend.

After a quick lunch, we continued our journey toward Zion National Park, about a two-hour drive away.

Zion National Park: Let the Adventures Begin!

Our home for the next few days was the Best Western Zion Canyon Inn in Springdale, conveniently located very close to the park entrance.

Springdale is a charming little town with restaurants, shops, outdoor outfitters, and several hotels, including Marriott properties. A free town shuttle runs through the main hotel and shopping corridor, taking visitors to the park entrance. This makes exploring Zion particularly convenient, especially during the busy summer months.

After checking into our hotel and settling in, we decided to make the most of the evening with a sunset hike along the Watchman Trail.

What a lovely introduction to Zion!

As the sun began to set, the towering sandstone cliffs glowed in warm shades of pink and orange. The views were beautiful, and the trail gave us our first glimpse of the dramatic landscape we would spend the next several days exploring.

Little did we know that the real adventures were just beginning!

Hiking the Narrows: A River Runs Through It

The following morning, we started early to beat the crowds and the July heat. Our destination was the Narrows, one of Zion's most famous and unusual hikes.

Unlike traditional hikes where you follow a trail alongside a river, in the Narrows, the river itself is the trail!

We chose the popular bottom-up route, which does not require a wilderness permit for a day hike.

The adventure begins with the paved Riverside Walk, approximately one mile from the Temple of Sinawava shuttle stop to the point where the canyon narrows and the trail disappears into the Virgin River.

From there, it's time to get wet!

The hike involves wading through flowing water, often ankle- to knee-deep, but occasionally reaching the waist or even higher depending on conditions. The riverbed is covered with slippery, uneven rocks, making every step an exercise in balance and concentration.

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of proper equipment.

We rented specialized closed-toe canyoneering boots, neoprene socks, and sturdy wooden walking sticks from local outfitters. These were invaluable. The boots provided better traction on slippery rocks, while the walking sticks helped us find stable footing in the flowing water.

We saw several hikers wearing regular sneakers or open-toed sandals. In my opinion, a big mistake! I witnessed both children and adults slipping, twisting their feet, or struggling to maintain their balance.

Even with proper footwear, navigating the underwater rocks was challenging.

Despite the July heat, the water was surprisingly cold when we first stepped in. But as the sun rose higher and the air warmed, we gradually became accustomed to the temperature.

And there was something incredibly refreshing about hiking through a river while surrounded by towering canyon walls.

Most of the time, the water stayed below our knees, although we encountered a few stretches where it rose to our waists. These deeper sections were both exciting and a little treacherous, especially where the current was strong.

The tall walking sticks became our best friends!

As we ventured deeper into the canyon, the walls rose dramatically on either side, sometimes leaving only a narrow ribbon of sky overhead. The constantly changing light, the sound of rushing water, and the sheer scale of the canyon made this unlike any hike we had ever done.

We continued all the way to Big Springs, approximately five miles into the river route, where we stopped to enjoy a packed lunch before retracing our steps.

By the end of the day, we had covered roughly ten miles in the river, plus the Riverside Walk.

Surprisingly, despite the distance, we didn't feel particularly exhausted. The cold water had kept us cool and refreshed throughout the hike.

Our feet, however, had a different opinion!

Even with thick-soled canyoneering boots, the constant pressure from the uneven rocks had left them feeling bruised and tender. So, we wisely decided to spend the rest of the evening relaxing.

A practical tip: Before attempting the Narrows, always check the weather forecast and park alerts. Flash floods are a serious danger in slot canyons, even when it isn't raining where you are hiking. And definitely invest in the proper equipment—it makes an enormous difference.

Canyoneering and Rappelling: The 100-Foot Rappel- A Leap of Faith!

The following day promised something completely different.

We had booked a half-day guided canyoneering and rappelling excursion in the canyon country outside Zion National Park.

This was new territory for all of us, and perhaps the most adrenaline-filled part of the entire trip!

Our guide took us through a spectacular landscape of narrow slot canyons, smooth sandstone walls, and steep descents. The excursion involved approximately six or seven rappels, including some quite dramatic vertical drops.

The highlight of this adventure was undoubtedly the 100-foot rappel down a sheer sandstone cliff.

Now, standing at the edge of a 100-foot drop, looking down into what seems like an endless abyss, is a very different experience from admiring the same cliff from below!

Our guide secured us into our harnesses, checked the ropes, and instructed us to lean backward over the edge. Every instinct in my body was screaming, "Don't do it!" After all, leaning backward off a cliff goes against everything we have been taught about self-preservation!

The first few steps were the hardest. Your feet are pressed against the vertical rock face, your body suspended backward, and your entire weight is supported by a rope. Looking down was terrifying. The canyon floor seemed impossibly far away, and for a moment, I wondered what had possessed me to sign up for this adventure.

But then, somewhere along the descent, fear began to give way to wonder.

I paused to look around. The towering sandstone cliffs, the intricate formations carved by centuries of wind and water, the narrow canyon winding far below—what an extraordinary perspective! Here I was, suspended against a massive rock wall, surrounded by this magnificent landscape, experiencing nature from a vantage point that few of us ever get to see.

It was simultaneously terrifying and breathtaking.

As I continued descending, I began to trust the rope, my footing, and perhaps most importantly, myself. With every step, my confidence grew. What had initially seemed impossible slowly became exhilarating.

And then, finally, my feet touched solid ground!

What a rush!

I looked back up at the towering cliff I had just descended and could hardly believe I had done it. A hundred feet! The same cliff that had seemed so intimidating from above now filled me with an enormous sense of accomplishment.

There is something incredibly empowering about confronting your fears, pushing through them, and discovering that you are capable of more than you imagined.

Of all the rappels we did that day, this one will remain etched in my memory. Not just for the height or the spectacular scenery, but for that wonderful transformation from "I can't possibly do this!" to "Wow, I actually did that!"

And that, I suppose, is what makes adventures like these so addictive!

Your mind says, "Absolutely not!"

Your guide says, "Lean back a little more!"

And somewhere between fear and excitement, you finally let go.

While the first rappel was undoubtedly the most nerve-racking. The last became most exhilarating.

The smooth sandstone walls, narrow passageways, and dramatic descents made the entire adventure feel like something out of an Indiana Jones movie.

Of course, we weren't the only ones who had discovered this adventure.

Several other tour groups were navigating the same canyon, and at one particularly narrow rappel, things became quite backed up. A group ahead of us had brought some young children who became frightened when they saw the steep descent and needed considerable encouragement from their guides.

Understandably so!

Our guide eventually rerouted us to another section, where we had to traverse a smooth, sloping rock face—a nerve-racking challenge in its own right! The smooth sandstone offered little to grip onto, and the steep drop below certainly didn't help calm our nerves! Helping each other climb up, then holding on to the thin rope as we walked across along this smooth sloping surface was a challenge. But the reward was well worth it. The traverse led us to an even steeper rappel, standing on a narrow ledge, harnessed to a hook in the bolted to the sandstone wall high above and sweeping views of the forest below. What initially seemed like an intimidating detour turned out to be one of the most picturesque and exhilarating parts of canyoneering adventure!

By the time we finished, we were buzzing with adrenaline and feeling rather proud of ourselves.

A well-deserved lunch and tall glasses of cold lemonade tasted especially wonderful afterward.

Emerald Pools: A Quieter Evening

That evening, we decided to explore the Emerald Pools trails, a relatively easy network of hikes leading to three pools.

After the day's excitement, we were ready for something less adventurous.

Unfortunately, the pools were rather disappointing in the middle of July. With little water flowing, they were shallow and not nearly as dramatic as the descriptions had led us to expect.

I can imagine that during spring, with more water cascading over the rocks, the pools would be much prettier.

Still, it was a pleasant evening walk and an opportunity to enjoy another part of Zion's landscape and each others company.

Angel's Landing: The Hike We Had Come For

And then came the day we had all been preparing for.

Angel's Landing!

One of the world's most renowned hikes, famous for its dramatic ridgeline, sheer drop-offs, and breathtaking views of Zion Canyon.

This was the hike that had inspired our entire trip. The reason we had scrambled over rocks at Billy Goat Trail, climbed Old Rag, and spent months building up our hiking confidence.

And now, here we were!

The Angel's Landing hike can be divided into three distinct sections: the initial canyon ascent, Walter's Wiggles, and the final narrow ridgeline leading to the summit.

A permit is required to continue beyond Scout Lookout onto the famous chains section, with permits awarded through a lottery system designed to manage overcrowding.

We had initially applied for permits for our group of six, but unfortunately, our application was unsuccessful.

Not wanting to miss the highlight of our trip, we eventually arranged a guided hike through a tour company, which was able to secure the necessary permits for our group.

In hindsight, having a guide turned out to be a blessing. A couple of members of our group were somewhat nervous about heights, and the guide's calm reassurance and encouragement made an enormous difference.

Refrigerator Canyon and Walter's Wiggles

The trail begins relatively gently, following the valley floor before ascending a series of switchbacks toward Refrigerator Canyon.

The aptly named Refrigerator Canyon offers a refreshing stretch of shade and cooler temperatures, a welcome relief from the blazing July sun.

But the reprieve is short-lived.

Next come Walter's Wiggles.

Twenty-one tight, steep switchbacks carved into the canyon wall, climbing rapidly toward Scout Lookout.

I don't know about everyone else, but I found these 21 wiggles absolutely oppressive!

Initially, I would stop every 20 steps to catch my breath. As we climbed higher, those rest stops became increasingly frequent.

My lungs were working overtime, my legs were protesting, and I kept wondering when the switchbacks would finally end.

Interestingly, I found this section more physically challenging than the famous narrow ridge that followed.

Eventually, we reached Scout Lookout, where the landscape opened up to spectacular views of Zion Canyon.

And there, ahead of us, was the final challenge.

Walking the Knife-Edge Ridge

The last half-mile to Angel's Landing is what makes this hike legendary.

A narrow, fin-like sandstone ridge rises dramatically above the canyon, with sheer drop-offs of more than 1,000 feet on either side.

In some places, the trail is barely wide enough for two people to pass comfortably.

Metal chains bolted into the rock provide handholds along the steepest and most exposed sections. But there are also stretches where you must carefully navigate the rock without chains.

Looking down is optional—and perhaps not always advisable!

The hike requires concentration, a steady footing, and a healthy respect for heights. Wind and slippery conditions can make the experience even more challenging.

We saw a surprisingly wide range of hikers, including young children and even a couple carrying babies in backpack carriers.

I must admit, I found that rather alarming.

While I completely understand the desire to share outdoor adventures with young children, I couldn't help questioning the wisdom of carrying infants along such a narrow and exposed ridgeline. One misstep could have devastating consequences.

But beyond the challenge and occasional moments of anxiety, the beauty of the hike was simply extraordinary.

Hardy trees clung to the steep sandstone slopes, providing patches of shade for exhausted hikers. Chipmunks darted among the rocks, and birds soared effortlessly through the canyon.

And then something truly magical happened.

An Unexpected Encounter With a California Condor

We were incredibly fortunate to encounter a California condor perched just a few feet away from us.

A condor!

One of North America's rarest and largest flying birds.

Several park rangers had mentioned that even after working in Zion for years, they had rarely seen a condor up close. Most sightings were of these magnificent birds soaring high above the canyon.

And here was one, practically posing for us!

Up close, I must admit, its face was not particularly attractive—rather vulture-like, with a bald head and wrinkled skin.

But what a magnificent creature!

Its massive body and extraordinary wingspan made me wonder how something so large could glide so effortlessly through the air.

Watching it eventually take flight, riding the thermals above the canyon with barely a flap of its wings, was mesmerizing.

Nature truly never ceases to amaze me.

A Memory Worth a Lifetime

Standing atop Angel's Landing, looking out over the immense sandstone cliffs and the winding Virgin River far below, I felt an overwhelming sense of accomplishment.

But more than the magnificent views or the thrill of conquering the ridge, what made this moment so special was sharing it with my nieces.

Watching them confidently navigate the rocks, overcome their fears, encourage one another, and experience the joy of reaching the summit was immensely gratifying.

This was, after all, the reason the entire trip had begun.

A graduation gift had turned into an unforgettable shared adventure.

I hope that years from now, when my nieces look back on their lives, they will remember this hike with the same fondness and pride that I do.

For me, hiking Angel's Landing with them will always remain one of life's most precious memories.

The trio of the Narrows, canyoneering, and Angel's Landing had given us three completely different adventures, each extraordinary in its own way.

Frankly, I should probably have stopped there!

Because after those experiences, I wasn't sure anything else could quite measure up.

Bryce Canyon: A Landscape of Hoodoos and Fairy-Tale Formations

Hoodoo

While my nieces returned to their busy lives of school and internships, my husband and I continued our journey to Bryce Canyon National Park.

Bryce is a completely different landscape from Zion.

Where Zion impresses with towering sandstone cliffs and deep, dramatic canyons, Bryce captivates with thousands of whimsical rock formations called hoodoos.

These tall, thin spires of rock, shaped over millions of years by erosion, create an almost surreal landscape. Shades of orange, pink, red, and cream stretch across the canyon in what looks like an enormous natural amphitheater filled with stone sculptures.

The formations reminded me of the extraordinary shapes we had seen in Antelope Canyon, although on a much grander scale.

It was unquestionably beautiful.

Yet, I must confess, after the sheer excitement and emotional high of Angel's Landing, Bryce somehow didn't feel quite as momentous.

Perhaps we had simply reached our adventure saturation point!

Hiking Among the Hoodoos

We chose to hike a combination of the Navajo Loop and Queen's Garden trails, descending deep into the heart of Bryce Canyon.

This is perhaps one of the best ways to truly appreciate the hoodoos. From the canyon rim, they look like delicate sculptures rising from the valley floor. But once you descend among them, their sheer size and intricate shapes become even more impressive.

The trail winds through narrow passages, between towering rock formations, and beneath natural windows and arches.

Every bend presents a new perspective, and the colors seem to change with the angle of the sun.

Our extended hike covered approximately five to six miles, including the steep climb back to the rim.

And that climb!

In the July heat, with the trail rising sharply out of the canyon, I would certainly classify our hike as strenuous rather than moderate.

After several days of intense hiking at Zion, our legs were beginning to remind us that we were not quite as young as we liked to believe!

For the rest of our time at Bryce, we wisely limited ourselves to driving along the scenic park roads, stopping at various overlooks, and taking short walks.

No more marathon hikes for us!

What surprised us most was how few people seemed to be visiting Bryce.

This was the July Fourth holiday period, traditionally one of the busiest times for national parks, yet several viewpoints and trails felt almost deserted.

Perhaps the nearby wildfires and concerns about park access had discouraged visitors. Whatever the reason, we certainly weren't complaining about the lack of crowds.

But by now, our hiking buckets were full, and we were beginning to look forward to home.

After Angel's Landing, we simply didn't have much adrenaline—or emotional energy—left for another grand adventure.

Sleeping Under the Stars: Our Glass Dome Experience

For our stay near Bryce Canyon, I had booked one of those increasingly popular glass dome accommodations.

The idea sounded wonderful.

Imagine lying comfortably in bed, gazing through the transparent ceiling at a sky filled with thousands of stars, perhaps even watching the Milky Way stretch across the horizon.

Bryce Canyon's high elevation and famously dark skies make it an excellent location for stargazing, and I had been looking forward to this experience.

I had visions of the spectacular Milky Way we had seen during our safari in Kenya.

Unfortunately, reality didn't quite match expectations.

For one, the moon was partially illuminated, brightening the night sky. The pathway lights around the dome camp also remained on well into the night, creating enough light pollution to diminish the stargazing experience.

And then there was the minor inconvenience of my falling asleep while waiting for the Milky Way to make its grand appearance!

So much for my romantic night under the stars.

As for the accommodations themselves, I found them rather overrated.

Despite the novelty of sleeping inside a dome, the actual facilities were closer to what I would expect from a basic motel.

At approximately $500 a night, I honestly didn't think they were worth the price.

Perhaps on a moonless night, with better control of the camp lighting, the experience would have been more magical.

But for us, it was one of those travel experiences that sounded better in the brochure than it turned out in reality!

Back to Las Vegas, With a Stop at Hoover Dam

On our return journey, we spent a day in Las Vegas and took the opportunity to visit Hoover Dam.

Hoover Dam remains an extraordinary engineering achievement, and its sheer scale is impressive.

However, I was somewhat disappointed by the visitor experience.

The newer construction and viewing infrastructure, in my opinion, have diminished some of the drama of seeing the dam in its entirety. Buildings and structures seemed to obstruct several views, making it difficult to fully appreciate the magnitude of the dam and the water far below.

And climbing endless steps in the scorching Nevada heat wasn't particularly enjoyable either!

Returning to Las Vegas, with its bustling streets, restaurants, hotels, and neon lights, felt rather like returning to civilization after a week surrounded by nature.

But as much as I enjoy the comforts of a city, nothing could compare to the grandeur of the landscapes we had just experienced.

Reflections: More Than Just Another Hiking Trip

Looking back, this weeklong adventure was about much more than visiting two spectacular national parks.

It began with a young girl's simple request for "a unique experience."

And what an experience it turned out to be!

From the magical sandstone formations of Antelope Canyon and the flowing waters of the Narrows to the adrenaline rush of rappelling down canyon walls and the unforgettable climb to Angel's Landing, every day brought something new.

We challenged ourselves physically, pushed through moments of fear, marveled at nature's extraordinary creations, and shared plenty of laughter along the way.

Bryce Canyon, with its fairy-tale hoodoos and sweeping vistas, was a beautiful finale, even if we were a little too exhausted to appreciate it with the same enthusiasm.

But what I will cherish most isn't the number of miles we hiked or the famous landmarks we visited.

It's the memory of my nieces scrambling confidently over rocks, their excitement at every new adventure, and the pride of standing together on top of Angel's Landing.

We set out to give my niece a unique graduation experience. In the end, she gave us something equally precious—a shared adventure and memories that will stay with us for a lifetime.

And isn't that, after all, what makes travel so wonderful?

Part 5: Galápagos Islands — A Nature's Living Laboratory

2026-10-09T11:11:42.891-04:00

After the ancient wonders of Machu Picchu and the breathtaking landscapes of Peru, it was time for the final chapter of our South American adventure—the Galápagos Islands, one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations on Earth.

Located about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, this remote archipelago in the Pacific Ocean is famous for its remarkable wildlife, volcanic landscapes, and, of course, its association with Charles Darwin's theory of evolution.

What makes the Galápagos truly special is that many of its animals have evolved with relatively few natural land predators and consequently show remarkably little fear of humans.

And we were about to discover just how little!

Getting to the Galápagos — A Journey in Itself

Getting from Cusco to the Galápagos was an adventure of its own.

We flew from Cusco to Lima, then onward to Bogotá, where we spent the night before catching another flight to San Cristóbal Island, one of the inhabited islands of the Galápagos archipelago.

By the time we finally arrived, we had crossed countries, airports, and time zones, trading the high Andes for the warm, salty air of the Pacific.

Waiting for us was our home for the next several days—an eight-cabin catamaran that would take us from island to island through this remarkable ecosystem.

Our Floating Home — Small Boat, Big Comfort!

Having traveled on large cruise ships such as Carnival and Princess, we weren't quite sure what to expect from a small expedition catamaran.

Would the cabins be tiny? Would we be squeezing ourselves into cramped bathrooms? Would there be enough space for everyone?

Well, we were pleasantly surprised!

Our catamaran had eight cabins, although there were only 14 passengers—seven couples—on our cruise.

The cabins were surprisingly spacious, with large windows offering wonderful views of the ocean. Even the bathrooms were roomier than those we had experienced on some large cruise ships!

The boat had a comfortable dining room that could seat 16 guests, two indoor lounge areas (one of which we never even used!), a bar, an outdoor lounge, and a rooftop sun deck perfect for soaking up the sun and watching the ocean.

For a boat this size, it was remarkably well designed.

And then there was the crew.

We had a captain, an engineer, a chef, a sous-chef, a naturalist guide, a cruise director, a bartender, and two boatmen who helped with just about everything.

Nine crew members taking care of 14 passengers—not a bad ratio at all!

Everyone was friendly, attentive, and genuinely interested in making our experience enjoyable. From helping us board the small excursion boats to preparing meals and anticipating our needs, the crew made life aboard wonderfully comfortable.

When the Ocean Decides to Rock the Boat!

Now, there was one small catch.

While the catamaran was wonderfully stable when anchored, it was an entirely different story when we were moving between islands at night.

Catamaran

The Pacific Ocean has a mind of its own!

With the combination of wind, waves, and ocean swells, the boat could rock quite dramatically as we traveled from island to island.

And since much of our sailing happened overnight, we often went to bed in one location and woke up near another island.

Sleeping while the boat rocked back and forth took a little getting used to.

But the real challenge?

Getting up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom!

What should have been a simple ten-step walk became an exercise in balance, coordination, and occasionally grabbing onto whatever furniture happened to be nearby.

Who needs a gym when you can practice your balance on a rocking catamaran at 2 a.m.?

Fortunately, the boat was comfortable enough that we quickly settled into the rhythm of life at sea.

Life Aboard — Eat, Snorkel, Explore, Repeat!

One of the pleasures of traveling on a small expedition boat is that everything is organized around exploring the islands rather than entertainment aboard the ship.

There were no casinos, Broadway-style shows, or endless shopping arcades.

Instead, our days revolved around wildlife, snorkeling, island walks, and, of course, food!

And the food was excellent.

Our chef prepared fresh meals every day, with enough variety to satisfy everyone's preferences. There was always something delicious on the table.

Breakfast has always been my favorite meal, and I particularly enjoyed starting each day with a leisurely breakfast before heading out on our next adventure.

Our daily routine was fairly consistent.

After breakfast, we would head out for approximately an hour of snorkeling, exploring the underwater world around the islands.

Then it was back aboard for lunch, followed by an afternoon excursion—usually a guided hike or walk along one of the islands' designated trails.

And by evening, we would return to the catamaran for dinner, conversations with our fellow travelers, and perhaps a drink while watching the ocean.

It was a wonderful rhythm.

Eat, snorkel, explore, eat again, and repeat.

My kind of vacation!

The Galápagos — Where Wildlife Has the Right of Way

One of the most fascinating aspects of visiting the Galápagos is how carefully the islands are protected.

Much of the archipelago is part of the Galápagos National Park, with strict conservation regulations designed to protect its fragile ecosystems.

Visitors cannot simply wander wherever they please.

On the protected islands we visited, we were required to stay on designated trails and explore with our licensed naturalist guide.

There was no wandering off to investigate an interesting rock formation or taking shortcuts across the landscape.

And once we started encountering the wildlife, it became obvious why these rules are so important.

Because in the Galápagos, the animals have absolutely no intention of moving out of your way!

Swimming withh the Sea Lions — The Real Owners of the Islands

If there is one animal that completely stole my heart in the Galápagos, it was the sea lion.

They were everywhere!

Sleeping on beaches, lounging on rocks, rolling around in the sand, swimming in the water, and occasionally occupying the very paths we were supposed to walk on.

Some were stretched out in the sun, looking utterly content with life. Others were barking, playing, or noisily arguing with one another.

And the babies were simply adorable.

What amazed me most was how completely unconcerned they were about humans.

You could be walking along a trail and suddenly find a sea lion sprawled across it, fast asleep, with absolutely no intention of moving.

We often had to carefully maneuver around them, giving them space while trying to stay on the designated path.

In the Galápagos, the sea lions don't move for tourists. The tourists move for sea lions!

I could have spent hours simply sitting and watching them.

Their expressions, their playful behavior, the way they interacted with one another—there was something endlessly entertaining about these animals.

The Sea Lion and the Sharks — A Real-Life Wildlife Drama!

One of our most memorable wildlife encounters was something straight out of a nature documentary.

We spotted three sharks circling in the water, while a sea lion appeared to be trying desperately to get away from them.

And where did the sea lion decide to seek refuge?

On a boat!

Watching the sea lion scramble out of the water and onto the boat to escape the circling sharks was extraordinary.

We had already been impressed by how effortlessly sea lions could move between water, sand, and rocky shorelines.

But watching one haul itself onto a boat took that admiration to another level!

It was a vivid reminder that, despite their playful appearance and seemingly carefree lives, these animals inhabit a wild environment where survival is a daily reality.

And sometimes, even a sea lion needs a little help from a boat!

Iguanas, Lizards, and Other Prehistoric-Looking Residents

If sea lions were my favorites, the reptiles were a different story.

I have never been particularly fond of reptiles.

And the Galápagos has plenty of them!

Marine iguanas, land iguanas, and lava lizards seemed to be everywhere.

Marine iguanas were particularly fascinating. These dark, prehistoric-looking creatures are the only lizards in the world that forage in the ocean.

They spend much of their time basking on volcanic rocks, warming themselves after feeding on algae in the cold Pacific waters.

They look rather intimidating, with their spiky backs, long claws, and dragon-like faces.

But despite their appearance, they are primarily herbivores.

Land iguanas, with their yellowish coloring and sturdy bodies, were equally interesting, while tiny lava lizards darted around the rocks and trails.

And just like the sea lions, these creatures showed very little interest in getting out of our way.

Sometimes it felt as though we were carefully navigating an obstacle course of sleeping sea lions, lounging iguanas, and scurrying lizards.

Not exactly my favorite collection of animals, but fascinating nonetheless!

A Birdwatcher's Paradise

The Galápagos is also a paradise for bird lovers, even those of us who don't normally consider ourselves serious birdwatchers.

We saw an astonishing variety of birds, many found nowhere else in the world.

Blue-Footed Boobies — Yes, That's Really Their Name!

Perhaps the most recognizable birds of the Galápagos are the blue-footed boobies.

And yes, their feet really are that blue!

These rather comical-looking seabirds have brilliant turquoise-blue feet that almost look as though someone dipped them in paint.

Their famous courtship ritual involves an exaggerated high-stepping dance in which the males lift their blue feet to impress potential mates.

Even when they weren't dancing, watching them waddle around on their oversized blue feet was entertaining.

Nature certainly has a sense of humor!

Albatrosses, Cormorants, and Flamingos

We also encountered albatrosses, magnificent seabirds known for their enormous wingspans and extraordinary ability to glide over the ocean.

The Galápagos is home to the waved albatross, a remarkable bird that spends much of its life at sea.

Then there were the flightless cormorants, unusual birds that evolved reduced wings and rely on their powerful legs to swim and dive for food.

And, adding a completely different splash of color, we saw beautiful pink flamingos in the wild.

Watching these elegant birds standing in shallow lagoons, their pink feathers contrasting with the volcanic landscape, was a lovely surprise.

The Magnificent Frigatebird — My Favorite!

But of all the birds we encountered, the one that excited me most was the frigatebird.

More specifically, the magnificent sight of a male frigatebird displaying his enormous, bright red throat pouch.

During courtship, the male inflates this pouch into a brilliant red balloon to attract females.

And what a spectacle it is!

Against his dark feathers, the inflated red pouch is absolutely striking.

I had seen photographs of these birds before, but seeing one displaying in the wild was something else entirely.

Of all the incredible birds we saw in the Galápagos, this was the one that truly stole the show for me!

And the Penguins?

Well, we weren't quite lucky enough to see everything.

The Galápagos is home to the Galápagos penguin, one of the few penguin species found near the equator.

We had hoped to spot one, but unfortunately, no penguins made an appearance during our visit.

I suppose even in a wildlife paradise, you can't expect every animal to show up on demand!

Giant Tortoises — The Gentle Giants of the Galápagos

Of course, no visit to the Galápagos would be complete without seeing its most famous residents—the giant tortoises.

These extraordinary animals are among the largest living tortoises in the world, with some weighing several hundred pounds and living well over 100 years.

Although we saw signs of tortoises in the wild, our actual sightings were at a tortoise breeding and conservation center.

Giant Tortoise

And they were impressive!

Their enormous domed shells, thick elephant-like legs, and slow, deliberate movements make them look almost prehistoric.

Watching one slowly make its way across the ground, completely unhurried by anything around it, was fascinating.

The Galápagos giant tortoises have become symbols of conservation, particularly because several populations were once driven close to extinction by hunting, habitat destruction, and introduced species.

Breeding and restoration programs have played an important role in helping some populations recover.

Standing beside these magnificent creatures, it was hard not to think about how much the world has changed during their lifetimes.

And yet, here they were, moving along at their own leisurely pace, seemingly oblivious to the excitement they generated among visitors.

Perhaps there is a lesson in that—sometimes life is better enjoyed slowly!

Post Office Bay — A Mailbox Built on Trust and Tradition

Post Office Bay
One of the most charming stops on our Galápagos adventure was Post Office Bay on Floreana Island, home to perhaps one of the world's most unusual postal traditions.
There is no postmaster, no postage stamp, and certainly no guaranteed delivery date!
Instead, there is a simple wooden barrel that has served as an unofficial mailbox for generations.
The tradition dates back to the late 1700s, when whaling ships traveling through the Pacific would stop at Floreana Island. Sailors would leave letters in a barrel, hoping that another ship heading toward their hometown would pick them up and deliver them.
More than two centuries later, the tradition continues!
Today, visitors leave postcards and letters addressed to family and friends back home. Other travelers rummage through the collection, looking for cards addressed to someone who lives near them. If they find one, they take it home and personally hand-deliver it to the recipient.
No postal service. No tracking number. Just complete strangers carrying messages across oceans and continents, trusting that someone will eventually deliver them.
I found the whole concept absolutely delightful!
In a world where messages travel across the globe in seconds, here was a centuries-old tradition that relied entirely on human connection, goodwill, and a little bit of serendipity.
Imagine receiving a postcard from a complete stranger who tells you that someone you love left it for you on a remote island in the Pacific Ocean!
What a beautiful reminder that sometimes the most meaningful connections don't require technology—just a little trust and kindness from strangers.
And somehow, that simple wooden mailbox felt every bit as memorable as the extraordinary wildlife we had come to see.

Why the Galápagos Is So Special

What makes the Galápagos truly extraordinary isn't simply the number of animals you see.

It is the opportunity to observe wildlife behaving naturally, often just a few feet away, in an environment that has been carefully protected.

The islands themselves are strikingly different from one another—some covered in dark volcanic rock, others with beautiful sandy beaches, rugged coastlines, or lush vegetation.

And everywhere, there is life.

Sea lions sprawled across the beaches, marine iguanas basking on black lava rocks, blue-footed boobies waddling along the shore, frigatebirds soaring overhead, and giant tortoises slowly making their way
through the landscape.

It is easy to understand why Charles Darwin's observations here helped shape his thinking about evolution and natural selection.

The Galápagos truly feels like nature's living laboratory, where geography, isolation, and time have produced some of the most unusual wildlife on Earth.

Would I Recommend a Small-Boat Galápagos Cruise?

Absolutely!

Traveling on a small catamaran was one of the best ways to experience the islands.

With only 14 passengers, we were able to enjoy a relaxed, intimate friendship, personalized attention from the crew, and daily excursions that brought us remarkably close to wildlife.

One of the unexpected joys of cruising with just 14 passengers was the friendships we made along the way. Sharing meals, snorkeling adventures, wildlife encounters, sharing anxieties and plenty of laughter brought us together surprisingly quickly. With such a small group, strangers soon became friends, and by the end of the journey, it felt like we had known each other for years. The best part? Some of those friendships have continued well beyond the Galápagos! After all, the most wonderful souvenirs from our travels are sometimes the friendships we bring home.

The accommodations were surprisingly comfortable, the food was excellent, and the naturalist guide added so much depth to everything we saw.

Of course, there were a few trade-offs.

The nighttime rocking could be quite dramatic, and if you are prone to seasickness, it is something worth considering.

And unlike a conventional cruise, the days were active, with snorkeling, walking, and exploring rather than lounging by a pool.

But that was precisely the appeal.

We hadn't come to the Galápagos for a luxury cruise experience. We had come to experience one of the most extraordinary natural environments on the planet.

And the catamaran gave us a front-row seat.

A Fitting End to Our South American Adventure

From the bustling streets and culinary delights of Lima to the steamy Amazon rainforest, the ancient agricultural terraces of the Sacred Valley, and the breathtaking Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Peru had already given us an incredible range of experiences.

And then came the Galápagos.

A place where sea lions own the beaches, iguanas lounge wherever they please, birds perform elaborate courtship dances, and giant tortoises remind us that there is absolutely no need to rush through life.

It was the perfect finale to a journey filled with history, adventure, fascinating cultures, extraordinary landscapes, and unforgettable wildlife.

Five very different chapters, one extraordinary South American adventure.

And perhaps that is what I love most about traveling. Just when you think you've seen something remarkable, the world surprises you all over again.

Part 2: Deep into the Green — Our Amazon Rainforest Adventure

2026-10-08T22:47:27.681-04:00

Our Peru and Galápagos adventure took us from Lima (3 days) → Amazon Rainforest → Sacred Valley → Machu Picchu → Cusco → Galápagos Islands.

After exploring Lima's bustling neighborhoods, historic landmarks, and fabulous food scene, it was time for a complete change of scenery.

We traded city streets for muddy jungle trails, air-conditioned comfort for tropical humidity, and the sounds of traffic for the mysterious calls of the rainforest.

A short flight from Lima brought us to Puerto Maldonado, the gateway to Peru's southern Amazon basin.

And just like that, we were off on an entirely different kind of adventure!

Packing Light in Puerto Maldonado

Tambopata River
Before heading into the rainforest, we made a quick stop in Puerto Maldonado to repack our bags.

Getting to our jungle lodge involved several stages of transportation, including a motorized boat ride along the river, with luggage carried by hand along the way. Large suitcases and heavy duffel bags were simply not practical.

So we transferred our essentials into smaller, lightweight bags and daypacks, leaving the rest of our luggage safely stored at the local office until our return.

A few changes of clothes, rain gear, insect repellent, hiking shoes, and a healthy sense of adventure—that was pretty much all we needed.

Or so we thought!

Journey into the Jungle — The Tambopata River

From the river port, we boarded a motorized wooden longboat for an approximately 90-minute journey along the Tambopata River.

The river was wide, muddy, and powerful, winding through an endless sea of green.

As we traveled farther into the rainforest, civilization gradually disappeared. The sounds of traffic gave way to the steady hum of insects, the calls of tropical birds, and the occasional rustling of vegetation along the riverbanks.

Stairs from the river to the lodge

Towering trees lined both sides of the river, their branches reaching out over the water. Every so often, we would scan the banks hoping to spot a capybara, a colorful bird, or perhaps something more exotic.

The farther we traveled, the more remote everything felt.

No roads, no traffic, no city lights—just the river and the rainforest stretching endlessly around us.

Posada Amazonas — Jungle Living with a Twist!

Our home for the next few days was Posada Amazonas, a beautiful eco-lodge operated in partnership with the local Indigenous Ese Eja community.

The lodge blends surprisingly comfortable accommodations with a truly immersive rainforest experience.

Our rooms were spacious, clean, and well-appointed, with wooden furnishings, comfortable beds, and even a hammock.

But there was one rather unusual feature.

One entire wall of our bedroom was completely open to the jungle!

No glass windows. No screens. No solid wall separating us from the rainforest.

Just a wooden railing, a hammock, and the warm, humid jungle air flowing right through.

Imagine sleeping in a room where the rainforest is practically an extension of your bedroom!

The Jungle's Nighttime Orchestra

If you think the rainforest becomes quiet after sunset, think again.

The jungle comes alive at night, with an extraordinary chorus of insects, frogs, birds, and other creatures calling to one another.

And then there were the howler monkeys!

Their deep, rumbling calls sounded uncannily like low-flying airplanes passing overhead. The first time we heard them, we couldn't quite believe that such an enormous sound could come from a monkey.

The first night was a little disorienting. Every unfamiliar rustle or call made us wonder what was happening outside our open bedroom.

But surprisingly, by the following night, the jungle's constant soundtrack had become almost soothing—a rhythmic white noise that lulled us to sleep.

Who needs a white-noise machine when you have the entire Amazon rainforest outside your bedroom?

Our Unexpected Roommates

Of course, having an open wall also meant that some of the local residents occasionally decided to visit.

Frogs and little lizards hanging out on our bedroom walls were apparently just part of everyday life here.

For those of us accustomed to keeping wildlife firmly outside our homes, this took a little getting used to!

But these little creatures were harmless companions, and the lizards were probably doing us a favor by helping control the insects.

After the initial surprise, we began to appreciate the experience for what it was.

We hadn't come all the way to the Amazon to stay in a sealed, air-conditioned hotel room. We had come to experience the rainforest.

And the rainforest was certainly delivering!

Meals, New Friends, and Jungle Rules

One of the unexpected pleasures of Posada Amazonas was the communal dining experience.

Guests were assigned to small groups, each with a dedicated naturalist guide. We ate together at long tables in the lodge's open dining area, sharing hearty breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and freshly prepared afternoon snacks.

The food was surprisingly good, with plenty of fresh ingredients and local flavors.

Mealtimes quickly became social occasions, with everyone swapping stories about the day's adventures, wildlife sightings, and occasional jungle surprises.

We became particularly friendly with a wonderful group of Australians, and what began as casual conversations over meals turned into friendships that have continued long after the trip.

One of the joys of travel is that sometimes the people you meet become as memorable as the places you visit.

There was, however, one important rule at the lodge.

Never wander off into the jungle without your guide!

The forest is incredibly dense, trails can look deceptively similar, and it is remarkably easy to lose your sense of direction.

So every excursion, whether a daytime hike or a nighttime wildlife walk, was accompanied by our knowledgeable local guide.

And as we soon discovered, having an experienced guide made all the difference between simply walking through a forest and actually seeing the extraordinary life hidden within it.

Wildlife Spotting — A Jungle Treasure Hunt

Exploring the Amazon is a little different from going on an African safari.

Here, the wildlife doesn't necessarily come out into the open for you to admire. Much of it is hidden high in the canopy, camouflaged among the leaves, or quietly moving through the undergrowth.

You have to look carefully, listen closely, and, most importantly, be patient.

Fortunately, our guides seemed to have an almost supernatural ability to spot creatures we would never have noticed on our own.

Every excursion became a treasure hunt.

Parrots, Macaws, and the Clay Licks

One of the most colorful experiences was visiting the clay licks, where parrots and macaws gather along exposed clay-rich riverbanks.

Imagine dozens of brilliantly colored birds—vivid greens, reds, blues, and yellows—flying overhead, squawking loudly, and settling along the riverbank.

The birds consume the clay, which scientists believe may help provide minerals and, in some cases, bind certain dietary toxins.

Whatever the scientific explanation, the spectacle was wonderful.

Macaws at Clay Licks

The rainforest suddenly transformed into a noisy, colorful gathering of birds, all seemingly competing to make themselves heard.

Nature's own morning social club!

Night Walks — When the Jungle Really Comes Alive
Howler Monkeys

If the jungle is fascinating during the day, it becomes an entirely different world after dark.

Armed with flashlights and following our guide, we ventured onto the forest trails for a nighttime walk.

Every beam of light seemed to reveal something new—tiny insects, tree frogs clinging to leaves, and strange little creatures moving through the undergrowth.

And then came the tarantulas.

Large, hairy spiders resting beside the trail, looking perfectly comfortable in their natural habitat.

I can't say that standing a few feet away from a tarantula was particularly high on my bucket list!

But watching these creatures in the wild, rather than behind glass in a zoo, was undeniably fascinating.

We quickly learned that the rainforest belongs to its residents. We were simply visitors passing through.

Capybaras and Other Forest Residents

Along the riverbanks, we were fortunate to spot capybaras, the world's largest living rodents.

These rather adorable, barrel-shaped animals seem wonderfully relaxed about life, often lounging near the water or quietly grazing along the banks.

We also encountered a variety of tropical birds, including the unusual grey-winged trumpeter, a ground-dwelling forest bird with a distinctive appearance and call.

Every sighting felt like a small victory.

And sometimes the greatest excitement came not from seeing an animal clearly, but from hearing something moving in the dense vegetation and wondering what might be hiding just a few feet away.

Above the Canopy — A Bird's-Eye View of the Amazon

One of the absolute highlights of our stay was climbing the lodge's canopy observation tower.

After making our way up the tall wooden structure, we emerged above the treetops into a completely different world.

Until then, we had experienced the rainforest mostly from below, walking beneath a dense green canopy that blocked much of the sky.

But from the tower, the forest stretched endlessly in every direction—a vast, undulating carpet of green, broken only by the occasional towering tree rising above the rest.

As the sun began to dip toward the horizon, the jungle took on a beautiful golden glow.

And then came the macaws.

Flocks of brilliant red-and-green macaws flew past, sometimes almost at eye level, their colors flashing against the deep green forest.

In the distance, howler monkeys called from the treetops, their voices echoing across the canopy.

It was one of those moments when you simply stop talking and take it all in.

Standing above the Amazon rainforest at sunset, watching colorful macaws fly past while monkeys called in the distance, was truly magical.

The Sacred Tree — A Giant of the Rainforest

Another memorable excursion took us deep into the primary forest to visit an enormous ancient kapok tree.

Kapok trees are among the giants of the tropical rainforest, capable of growing to extraordinary heights, with massive trunks and enormous buttress roots spreading outward like natural walls.

Standing at the base of this magnificent tree, we felt incredibly small.

The roots alone towered above us, and the trunk rose so high that its upper branches seemed to disappear into the canopy.

These trees play an important role in the rainforest ecosystem, providing shelter and habitat for countless birds, insects, and other creatures.

For many Indigenous Amazonian communities, giant trees such as the kapok also hold deep cultural and spiritual significance.

It was humbling to stand beneath something so enormous and ancient, surrounded by a forest that has evolved over millions of years.

A reminder that long before humans arrived, nature had already perfected the art of building skyscrapers!

Spot the Owl!

One of the delights of exploring the Amazon rainforest was discovering just how well its residents could hide in plain sight! Take this little owl, perfectly camouflaged among the dense foliage. With its beautiful feathered tufts, watchful eyes, and brown plumage blending into the surrounding branches, it was almost impossible to spot. We could have walked right past without noticing it! Thankfully, our guide's sharp eyes caught what ours would surely have missed. A wonderful reminder that in the Amazon, the wildlife is often watching you long before you spot it!

Leaving the Amazon — A Different Perspective

Our time in the Amazon was unlike anything else we had experienced in Peru.

There were no grand monuments, ancient temples, or elaborate architectural wonders.

Instead, the wonder was all around us—in the towering trees, the endless shades of green, the calls of unseen creatures, and the extraordinary complexity of life thriving in every corner of the forest.

It was hot, humid, occasionally muddy, and certainly outside our usual comfort zone.

But that was precisely what made it memorable.

We had slept with an entire wall open to the jungle, shared our rooms with unexpected little visitors, climbed above the rainforest canopy, watched colorful macaws soar past, and made new friends along the way.

And perhaps most importantly, we came away with a greater appreciation for just how extraordinary—and fragile—this ecosystem really is.

The Amazon doesn't reveal all its secrets at once. You have to slow down, listen, observe, and let the forest come alive around you.

As we boarded our boat for the journey back to Puerto Maldonado, we were already looking forward to the next chapter of our adventure.

From the humid depths of the Amazon, we would soon be heading into the crisp mountain air of the Andes, exploring the Sacred Valley and following ancient Inca pathways toward Machu Picchu.

From the green heart of the rainforest to the clouds of the Andes—Peru certainly knows how to keep an adventure interesting!

Part 4: Hiking in the Clouds — The Short Inca Trail to Machu Pichu

2026-10-07T23:41:48.003-04:00

Days 6 & 7 — The Short Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

There are places you visit, places you enjoy, and then there are places you have to work a little harder to reach.

Machu Picchu was definitely the latter!

After several days exploring Lima and the Sacred Valley, we were finally ready for perhaps the most anticipated part of our Peru adventure—the **Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu**.

We had chosen the two-day Short Inca Trail, which combines a day of hiking along ancient Inca pathways with a visit to the magnificent ruins of Machu Picchu. Unlike the traditional four-day trek, this route offers a taste of the original Inca Trail without having to camp overnight in the mountains.

And what a taste it turned out to be!

Day 6 — Following the Footsteps of the Incas - An Early Start and a Train Ride Through the Andes

Our adventure began with an early morning train ride aboard the **PeruRail Vistadome**, winding through the dramatic Urubamba River valley toward Machu Picchu.

The train itself was quite an experience. Large panoramic windows offered spectacular views of the mountains towering above us, while the tracks followed the rushing Urubamba River through an ever-changing landscape.

As we descended into the valley, the scenery gradually transformed. The relatively bare Andean mountains gave way to dense green vegetation, steep forested slopes, and clouds clinging to the mountain peaks.

Along the way, we passed local residents working in their terraced fields, often dressed in traditional Andean clothing—bright reds, intricate woven patterns, and colorful hats. A lovely reminder that the traditions we had been learning about were still very much alive.

We also caught glimpses of the powerful Urubamba River rushing through narrow mountain gorges. This river system helps generate hydroelectric power for southern Peru, including at the Machu Picchu Hydroelectric Plant. Looking at the sheer force of the water, it wasn't difficult to understand why the region was chosen for hydroelectric generation.

Unlike most passengers heading directly to Machu Picchu, we got off at **Km 104**, the starting point of the Short Inca Trail.

This was where our leisurely sightseeing officially ended and the hiking began!

Km 104 — Let the Adventure Begin!

The Short Inca Trail starts at approximately **7,200 feet above sea level**, near the Urubamba River. From here, the route climbs through subtropical cloud forests, past ancient Inca ruins, and eventually reaches the famous Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu.

The hike covers approximately **12 kilometers (7.5 miles)**, typically taking around six to seven hours, depending on your pace, with significant elevation gain and, as we would soon discover, an astonishing number of stone steps.

After crossing the river and completing the trail checkpoint formalities, we began our climb.

The trail was beautiful from the very beginning. Towering mountains surrounded us, the Urubamba River roared far below, and wisps of cloud drifted through the valleys.

But the beauty came with a price.

The Incas apparently had a great fondness for stairs!

And not the evenly spaced, predictable stairs we are accustomed to. These were ancient stone steps—some narrow, some steep, some uneven, and many made slippery by the occasional drizzle and damp mountain weather.

Every time we thought we had conquered the last staircase, another one appeared around the corner.

Into the Cloud Forest

As we climbed higher, the landscape became increasingly lush.

We walked through dense vegetation, moss-covered rocks, ferns, and trees draped with delicate strands of moss. Clouds floated in and out of the mountains, sometimes revealing dramatic views of the valley and sometimes wrapping everything in a blanket of mist.

It was easy to understand why this region is called a cloud forest.

The trail itself was fascinating. Much of the route follows pathways originally built by the Incas more than 500 years ago, connecting settlements, agricultural terraces, and ceremonial centers across their vast empire.

Imagine building these stone pathways through such rugged mountains without modern machinery! And imagine pilgrims traveling from distant settlements to sacred sites, navigating this difficult terrain while carrying food, offerings, and gifts.

Then imagine Inca messengers and travelers climbing these same steps regularly, carrying supplies and messages between settlements.

We were struggling with our lightweight backpacks, hiking poles, frequent water breaks, and modern hiking shoes. **The Incas certainly had our respect!**

A Welcome Lunch Break

By midday, we were more than ready for a break.

One of the simple pleasures of the hike was sitting down at a sheltered rest stop, surrounded by fellow trekkers, and enjoying a much-needed lunch.

Nothing fancy—just a packed meal carried by a porter, a chance to rest our legs, and the satisfaction of knowing we had already covered a good portion of the trail.

There is something about eating after several hours of hiking that makes even the simplest food taste wonderful.

Of course, we still had plenty of climbing ahead!

Wiñay Wayna — Forever Young

Wiñay Wayna

One of the highlights of the Short Inca Trail is **Wiñay Wayna**, an extraordinary Inca archaeological site perched on a steep mountainside.

The name means *Forever Young* in Quechua, an Indigenous Andean language spoken during the Inca Empire and still widely spoken in Peru today. The site takes its name from an orchid found in the region.

Wiñay Wayna is famous for its sweeping agricultural terraces, stone buildings, and ceremonial structures that seem to cling almost impossibly to the mountainside.

Unlike Machu Picchu, which attracts thousands of visitors, Wiñay Wayna feels more secluded, particularly after making the effort to reach it on foot.

Standing among these ruins, surrounded by mist-covered mountains and dense forests, we couldn't help wondering how the Incas managed to construct such elaborate settlements in terrain that is difficult enough simply to walk through.

The precision of the stonework, sophisticated drainage systems, steep staircases, and agricultural terraces are remarkable.

And once again, we were reminded that the Incas didn't try to conquer the landscape. They learned to build with it.

The Final Climb — And Those Stairs!

Monkey Steps

Beyond Wiñay Wayna, the trail continues toward **Intipunku, the Sun Gate**, the traditional entrance to Machu Picchu for travelers arriving along the Inca Trail.

But before reaching the gate, there is one final challenge.

A particularly steep flight of stone steps, sometimes called the Monkey Steps or Gringo Killer Steps!

These are not ordinary stairs. The steps are so high and steep that hikers often use both hands and feet to climb them—hence the nickname *Monkey Steps*.

Looking at our photographs, you can see exactly what I mean. We were practically scrambling up the stones, holding onto whatever we could for balance.

At that point, elegance was no longer a consideration. Getting to the top was the only objective!

And somehow, after hours of climbing, we made it.

The Sun Gate — Our First Glimpse of Machu Picchu

The Sun Gate sits high above Machu Picchu, at approximately **8,900 feet**, and historically served as an important entrance to the sacred city.

For hikers on the Inca Trail, reaching this point is particularly special. Rather than arriving by bus at the main entrance, you approach Machu Picchu along the same mountain pathways used by the Incas centuries ago.

After hours of hiking through forests, clouds, and mountains, we had finally reached the moment we had been waiting for—our first glimpse of Machu Picchu.

Except there was one small problem. We couldn't see a thing!

When we arrived at the Sun Gate, the entire valley was covered in thick white clouds. Somewhere beneath that blanket of mist was the magnificent Inca citadel we had worked so hard to reach.

We were told to be patient. Wait ten minutes, and the clouds might clear.

And sure enough, the clouds began to shift, slowly revealing glimpses of the ancient city nestled between towering green peaks.

What a sight!

There it was—an architectural marvel perched dramatically on a mountain ridge, its stone terraces and buildings emerging through the drifting clouds.

There is something incredibly empowering about reaching a destination like this on foot. It wasn't just the six hours of hiking that brought us here. It was also the weeks of preparation back home—local hikes, cardio workouts, and training to build the stamina needed for hiking at altitude.

Standing there, looking down at Machu Picchu, every bit of that preparation suddenly felt worthwhile.

**It wasn't just about seeing the place. It was about the journey that brought us there.**

And we weren't quite finished yet!

From the Sun Gate, we still had roughly another hour of descent along ancient, sometimes slippery stone pathways before reaching the panoramic viewpoints overlooking Machu Picchu.

After taking in the spectacular views and, of course, plenty of photographs, we finally headed down toward **Aguas Calientes**, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu.

A hot shower, a good meal, and a comfortable bed had never sounded more appealing!

Tomorrow, we would return to explore the ancient city itself.

Day 7 — Machu Picchu: The Lost City of the Incas

After the previous day's adventure, it was finally time to explore **Machu Picchu** itself.

Perched high on a mountain ridge at approximately **7,970 feet above sea level**, Machu Picchu is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world.

Built in the 15th century during the reign of the Inca emperor Pachacuti, it is believed to have served as a royal estate and ceremonial center.

Although known to local communities, Machu Picchu remained largely unknown internationally until American explorer **Hiram Bingham brought it to worldwide attention in 1911**.

Today, Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

But no amount of reading or looking at photographs quite prepares you for seeing this magnificent place in person.

A City Built Among the Clouds

What strikes you first is the setting.

Machu Picchu is surrounded by towering green mountains, with the Urubamba River winding through the deep valley far below.

And then there is the city itself.

Stone houses, temples, plazas, staircases, and agricultural terraces seem to emerge naturally from the mountainside.

There are no towering monuments or elaborate decorative facades. Instead, the beauty lies in the simplicity and extraordinary precision of the construction.

Massive stones were carefully shaped and fitted together without mortar, creating walls that have survived centuries of earthquakes, rain, and weather.

The Incas were masters of engineering, astronomy, agriculture, and water management.

They built terraces to stabilize the steep slopes, drainage systems to manage the heavy rainfall, and channels to bring fresh water through the settlement.

What is perhaps most remarkable is that all of this was accomplished without iron tools, wheeled transport, or modern construction equipment.

More Than Just Ancient Ruins

Walking through Machu Picchu, you begin to appreciate that this was not simply a collection of buildings on a mountaintop.

It was a carefully planned settlement, with agricultural areas, residential quarters, ceremonial spaces, and structures aligned with important astronomical events.

The Incas had an extraordinary understanding of their natural environment.

The mountains were sacred, the sun played a central role in their spiritual beliefs, and the changing seasons guided agricultural life.

Even the placement of certain buildings reflects this deep connection between architecture, astronomy, and nature.

It is fascinating to think that a civilization capable of such sophisticated engineering left behind relatively no written records in the conventional sense.

So much of what we know today comes from archaeology, oral traditions, and the remarkable structures that have survived.

And perhaps that is part of Machu Picchu's enduring mystery.

Was the Hike Worth It?

Absolutely. Hiking the ancient trail gave us a completely different appreciation for the site.

We had walked through the cloud forest, climbed the endless stone staircases, passed centuries-old ruins, and experienced firsthand the dramatic geography that shaped Inca civilization.

By the time we reached Machu Picchu, it felt less like arriving at a tourist attraction and more like completing a journey.

**The destination was magnificent, but the experience of getting there made it unforgettable.**

After all, some of the best travel memories aren't made when everything is easy and comfortable. They come from challenging yourself, stepping a little outside your comfort zone, and discovering that you are capable of more than you thought.

**Machu Picchu was certainly one of those experiences for us.**

Part 3: Into the Sacred Valley — Ancient Inca Wonders & Andean Adventures from Cusco, and Sacred Valley

2026-10-07T22:21:51.475-04:00

There are moments when travel transitions from simply seeing a place to truly experiencing it—when the journey itself becomes as memorable as the destination. Our Short Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu was one of those moments.

Descending into the Sacred Valley

Day 4: After a quick hour-and-a-half flight from Lima, with the Andes unfolding beneath us, we landed in Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire. At 11,150 feet above sea level, the change in altitude from Lima is something you notice almost immediately.

Rather than stay in Cusco, we headed straight down into the Sacred Valley, giving our bodies a chance to acclimatize at a lower elevation. Our destination was Urubamba, surrounded by mountains and farmland in the heart of the valley, where we settled into Tierra Viva Valle Sagrado.

A word about the altitude: Landing in Cusco at over 11,000 feet, you quickly realize that even walking a little faster than usual can leave you surprisingly breathless. The best advice? Hydrate, slow down, drink plenty of coca leaf tea, and give your body time to adjust. Coca tea was everywhere—in our hotel rooms, at breakfast, and offered to us throughout the Sacred Valley—and quickly became part of our breakfast routine.

That is also one reason we headed directly from Cusco down into the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Nestled between towering Andean peaks along the Urubamba River, the valley sits significantly lower than Cusco, making it a wonderful place to acclimatize before heading back into the higher elevations. And what a place to acclimatize—lush green farmland, ancient terraces, tiny villages, and dramatic mountains rising on either side of the river.

Day 5: We spent the next day exploring the Sacred Valley—and getting our legs ready for the Machu Picchu hike ahead.

We wandered among the ancient agricultural terraces of Pisac and climbed through the massive stone ruins of Ollantaytambo, where enormous Inca walls seem almost impossibly fitted together. Everywhere you look, there is another reminder of a civilization deeply connected to the mountains, the land, the sun, and the rhythms of nature.

One thing that particularly struck me throughout Peru was how comfortably its different histories seem to coexist. Rather than one culture completely replacing another, Inca and Spanish influences have blended over centuries into something distinctly Peruvian. You see it in the language, food, art, clothing, religious traditions, and architecture—sometimes all within the same building or town square.

We also visited the fascinating Maras Salt Mines (Salineras de Maras), where thousands of small salt ponds cascade down the mountainside like a giant patchwork quilt.

More than 3,000 terraced salt pools are fed by naturally salty spring water flowing from the mountain. Families from the surrounding communities have harvested salt here for generations, allowing the water to fill the shallow ponds and then waiting for the intense Andean sun to evaporate it. The source of all that salt is fascinating in itself. Geological evidence suggests that this part of the Andes was once covered by an ancient sea, and as the mountains rose over millions of years, vast deposits of salt were trapped within the rock. Underground water passes through these mineral-rich layers before emerging as the salty spring that continues to feed the Maras pools today.

What makes Maras especially interesting is that this isn't simply an archaeological site created for tourists—it is still very much a working salt mine and part of the local economy.

As the water evaporates, different grades and colors of salt are harvested. We saw everything from the famous pale pink Maras salt used for cooking to darker, mineral-rich salts used for other purposes. And, naturally, somewhere along the way Peruvians figured out how to make smoked black salt too.

Salineras de Maras

Standing above the valley looking down at thousands of white, pink, and brown pools carved into the mountainside, it was another reminder of something we would see again and again on this journey: the extraordinary ingenuity of the people who learned not merely to survive in this dramatic landscape, but to work with it.

Later, we visited Moray, one of the most unusual Inca sites in the Sacred Valley. From above, it looks almost like a giant amphitheater carved into the earth—a series of enormous concentric circular terraces, with the deepest depression extending roughly 150 meters from top to bottom. It is yet another testament to the sophistication of Inca agricultural engineering.

One fascinating theory is that Moray functioned as an agricultural research center for the Incas. The different levels and orientations of the terraces create distinct microclimates, with variations in temperature, sunlight, and moisture. Researchers believe the Incas may have used these conditions to experiment with crops and determine which varieties grew best at different elevations and climates across their vast empire.

Corn

And agriculture here was anything but simple. Corn, potatoes, and countless other fruits and vegetables were cultivated and adapted for taste, resilience, altitude, and growing conditions.

Traveling through the Sacred Valley, it is easy to understand why this region remains one of Peru's great agricultural heartlands. The valley is surprisingly lush, with fields of corn, potatoes, strawberries, quinoa, and other crops stretching beneath the towering Andes.

Peru is home to thousands of varieties of potatoes—often cited at more than 3,000—in an astonishing range of colors, shapes, and sizes. Some are cultivated commercially, while others continue to be grown

by individual communities for local dishes, festivals, and cultural traditions.

And then there is the corn! Peruvian corn, particularly the large-kernel choclo we encountered throughout the Andes, is quite different from the corn we are accustomed to in the United States. We found it everywhere—from kernels tossed into our ceviche to freshly cooked corn sold by street vendors. The kernels are huge, pale white, slightly sweet, and wonderfully satisfying, often served simply with a slice of salty cheese.

After seeing Moray, the incredible variety of food we had been eating throughout Peru suddenly made a little more sense. For the Incas, agriculture wasn't simply about growing food—it was a science.

One of our more adventurous food experiences in Peru was trying cuy—roasted guinea pig, an Andean delicacy dating back to Inca times. And there was no disguising what we were eating—it arrived roasted whole, crispy golden skin, tiny legs and all!

Once we got past the presentation and took that first tentative bite, the flavor was surprisingly decent. The meat was rich, almost like roasted duck, and ours had been stuffed with fragrant local herbs that reminded us of basil. The biggest challenge was navigating all those tiny bones—there is definitely a lot of work involved for each bite!

Cuy - Ginea Pig

It was unusual for our palate, certainly a little intimidating, but exactly the kind of food experience we love trying when we travel. Would I order it again? Probably not. But would I recommend trying it at least once while in the Andes? Absolutely.

The Short Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

Days 6 & 7: And then came the part of the journey we had been waiting for—the Short Inca Trail and Machu Picchu.

This experience deserves much more than a few paragraphs, so I am going to leave you here for now. The hike, the spectacular Wiñay Wayna ruins, walking through the Sun Gate, and that unforgettable first glimpse of Machu Picchu will follow in Part 3 of our journey.

Cusco

Day 8: After the hike and our visit to Machu Picchu, we returned to Cusco—tired legs, lots of photographs, and an entirely new appreciation for the Incas.

Walking through Cusco feels like stepping through layers of history. Everywhere you look, massive Inca stone foundations—constructed with extraordinary mortarless precision, the stones fitted so tightly together that you can barely slip a sheet of paper between them—sit beneath ornate Spanish colonial buildings and churches constructed centuries later.

Perhaps nowhere is this contrast more striking than at Qorikancha, once the magnificent Inca Temple of the Sun. After the Spanish conquest, the Santo Domingo Convent was built over its Inca foundations. Yet the original stone walls remain, remarkably resilient after centuries of earthquakes.

We also explored another fascinating Inca archaeological site, believed to have served military or ceremonial purposes. Once again, the sheer scale of the stonework and the ingenuity of the Incas left us amazed.

But Cusco isn't just about ancient ruins. The heart of the city is its beautiful Plaza de Armas, a lively town square surrounded by grand colonial churches, restaurants, shops, and balconies overlooking the plaza. We happened to be there on a Sunday, when the square was buzzing with activity. Colorful parades, marching bands, people dressed in traditional costumes, and crowds of locals and tourists created an almost festive atmosphere. Apparently, Sunday parades are something of a tradition here, and we were lucky enough to experience one!

And, of course, no visit to Peru would be complete without a little shopping. We visited an alpaca textile factory, where we learned about the different grades of alpaca wool and admired the beautifully woven scarves, shawls, and other textiles. I couldn't resist bringing home a lovely alpaca stole—a practical souvenir and a reminder of our time in the Andes.

We also picked up some Peruvian coffee, another of the country's lesser-known treasures. Peru produces some wonderful high-altitude Arabica coffee, and bringing a little home seemed like the perfect way to extend our Peruvian experience long after the trip was over.

Cusco was a wonderful way to wrap up this part of our journey—a city where ancient Inca traditions, Spanish colonial history, and modern Peruvian life come together in the most fascinating way.

Inca below, Spanish above, and modern Peru thriving all around.

Part 1: Peru Uncovered — Coastal Charms, Culinary Delights & Colorful Lima. A 5-Part Journey Through Peru & The Galápagos

2026-10-05T21:55:19.810-04:00

Part 1: Colonial Streets & Ancient Stones — Lima

If you had told me a year ago that I’d be sipping coca tea at 11,000 feet while trying to catch my breath in a cobblestone alley, I would have handed you a glass of pisco sour and said, "Lead the way."

Lima

Our 2026 South American journey kicked off in Lima, a coastal metropolis where Spanish colonial balconies meet misty Pacific cliffs. Most tourists generally skip Lima en route to Cusco, and Machu Pichu. Lima however is a feast—literally. Between exploring the historical grand square of the Plaza Mayor and indulging in freshly caught sea bass ceviche in Miraflores, it’s easy to see why Peru’s capital is considered the culinary heart of the continent and a firm place on the world culinary scene. Further, it mattered much in Spanish South America, and is the political and cultural center of Peru.

Pachacamac ruins

Journey to the Ancient Past: Pachacamac

Day 1 - Chances are you will reach Lima late morning. The drive from the airport to your hotel, likely in one of the two tourist districts is a 30 min to an hour drive depending on traffic. Upon reaching your accommodations, rest for a bit, then head to Kauza, a low key restaurant tucked in the heart of Miraflores on Calle Tarata. Kauza is an innovative spot dedicated to reinventing causa—the classic Peruvian cold dish of seasoned yellow mashed potatoes. They offer dozens of varieties from causa acevichada to lomo saltado toppers alongside traditional Peruvian comfort classics.

Day 2 - Assuming you have the whole day, start your trip with a journey to the Ancient Past, the Pachacamac.

Travel about 25 miles south of Lima to the sacred archaeological complex of Pachacamac. Spanning centuries of pre-Inca and Inca history, this vast desert sanctuary served as an important oracle center dedicated to the deity Pachacamac, creator of the earth. Walking through these sun-baked adobe structures, three sites stood out:

• Temple of the Sun (Templo del Sol): A massive terraced red-adobed pyramid overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Standing near its base, you get a breathtaking view where the desert dunes crash into the blue ocean.

• Acllahuasi (House of the Chosen Women): Featuring classic trapezoidal stone and adobe doorways, this restored sanctuary housed women dedicated to ritual weaving and ceremonial duties.

• The Site Museum: A great first stop to see ceramic pottery, preserved textiles, and the wooden idol carved with intricate figures representing the deity itself.

After a hot and sunny morning, the second half of the day is best spent with a visit to Huacachina Oasis, a pisco vineyard, riding dune buggies, sandboard, and enjoying a desert sunset.

The Ultimate Ceviche & Culinary Tour

Day 3 - You cannot visit Lima without diving headfirst into its now world-renowned culinary scene and spend atleast a day wandering around its historic centre and admiring its beautiful colonial architecture.

Today's historical Lima tour features Spanish colonial architecture, the birthplace of the city at the Plaza Mayor, and the bone-filled crypts of the San Francisco Monastery.

The Cathedral
Skip the car and walk. Most of the important sights in Lima’s historic center are close enough to each other that there really is no reason to spend the day sitting in traffic.

Your guide picks you up at your hotel in Miraflores or Barranco and takes you into the historic center. From there, the tour is mostly on foot. You’ll see the Cathedral, San Francisco Monastery and its famous crypts, Plaza Mayor, the Government Palace, some of Lima’s old churches and, of course, those beautiful wooden balconies that seem to be everywhere.

Wooden balconies of Lima

You’ll also walk through some of the busy shopping streets. They can be crowded and a little chaotic, but that is part of the experience. This is Lima—not a museum frozen in time.

The historic center is where you start to understand Lima’s history. This was the “City of Kings,” the center of Spanish power in South America, and many of the buildings and churches still tell that story. At the same time, this is a living, working part of the city, which makes walking it much more interesting than simply driving past the sights from a car.

And honestly, walking makes more sense here. You see more, you can stop when something catches your eye, and you don't spend half the tour wondering how long it will take to get through the next traffic jam.

That evening, join a local food tour focused on Peru’s national dish—ceviche—and, of course, have a few more Pisco Sours along the way.

One thing you quickly learn in Lima is that ceviche is a lunch dish, not dinner. In fact, many cevicherías stop serving it by late afternoon because the fish needs to be as fresh as possible. So if you want to try really good ceviche, plan on having it for lunch rather than saving it for dinner.

If you’re on a tour, your guide will select the restaurants. But here are a few places worth knowing about if you want to try them on your own:

• Cala: Right on the rocky Costa Verde waterfront in Barranco, Cala has terrific views of the Pacific, with the waves crashing below. It works equally well for an upscale seafood lunch or an evening Pisco Sour while watching the sunset, surfers and paragliders along the cliffs.

• La Preferida: This is more of a neighborhood place in Miraflores—busy, casual and generous with the portions. It started as a traditional tavern and is particularly known for its leche de tigre, yellow-chili ceviches and arroz con mariscos. This is the kind of place I like when I want good local food without a lot of fuss.

• Huaca Pucllana:

Huaca Pucllana

My favorite and one of Lima’s most unusual dining settings is at Huaca Pucllana, the enormous pre-Inca adobe pyramid sitting right in the middle of modern Miraflores. The site dates back roughly 1,500 years, and seeing it lit up at night with apartment buildings all around it is quite a sight. The restaurant sits within the archaeological site, with a terrace overlooking the pyramid. Add a few fire pits, a plate of ceviche and a Pisco Sour, and you have one of those meals that is as much about the setting as the food.

• La Mar: Founded by Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, La Mar Cebichería in Miraflores is one of Lima’s best-known seafood restaurants. It is open for lunch rather than dinner, which makes perfect sense given Lima’s ceviche culture. Expect a lively, almost party-like atmosphere and a menu built around ceviches, tiraditos, grilled fish and other fresh seafood. If ceviche is one of the reasons you came to Peru, this is a good place to take it seriously.

In between the organized tours, make some time to explore on your own. Barranco is a great place to wander around and perhaps stop for lunch. Then, at dusk, head over to Miraflores and take a stroll through the neighborhood, including the famous Cat Park.

Miraflores was our main base, and we stayed at the Pullman. This upscale touristy seaside neighborhood is best known for its dramatic coastal cliffs and the El Malecón, the long series of parks and walking paths that follow the Pacific. It is one of the best places in Lima to get some fresh air and enjoy the views.

Walk along the cliffside paths and watch the paragliders riding the coastal winds above the ocean while surfers work the waves below. Stop at Parque del Amor (Love Park), with its colorful mosaic walls inspired by Antoni Gaudí and the large sculpture El Beso (“The Kiss”) by Peruvian artist Víctor Delfín.

This is one of those places where you don't really need an itinerary. Just walk along the cliffs, stop for the views, and enjoy watching Lima's daily life unfold around you stop for ceviche and pisco sours or some fresh Peruvian coffee from the highlands.

Located right in the heart of Miraflores, Parque Kennedy—also known as Kennedy Park or, more affectionately, the Cat Park—quickly became one of our favorite spots for a casual evening stroll.

The park is famous for its rather unusual residents—dozens of cats that freely roam the gardens, lounge on benches, climb trees, and nap wherever they please. Cared for by local volunteers and nonprofit groups, the cats are friendly, well-fed, and completely at home among the visitors. Don’t be surprised if one curls up beside you while you sit and watch the world go by.

But Parque Kennedy really comes alive as evening falls. Local artists set up their oil paintings along the walkways, musicians begin to play, families and couples wander through the park, and food carts tempt you with the smell of freshly made picarones—warm Peruvian doughnuts made from sweet potato and squash, then drizzled with a rich, spiced chancaca syrup.

And when you finally decide to head back to your hotel, grab a warm, chocolate-filled churro for the walk home. Because apparently, one dessert while strolling through Miraflores is simply not enough!

The Bohemian Soul of Lima: Barranco

Just south of Miraflores lies Barranco, Lima’s colorful, artsy, and wonderfully bohemian neighborhood. Once a fashionable 19th-century seaside retreat for Lima’s aristocracy, today Barranco is a delightful mix of romantic old mansions, brightly painted colonial buildings, enormous street-art murals, tucked-away cafés, and lively little bars.

Barranco is one of those neighborhoods best explored without too much of a plan—just wander, turn down interesting streets, stop for photographs, and see where you end up.

The Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros) is perhaps Barranco’s most famous landmark. The small wooden bridge stretches across a ravine that once led fishermen down toward the Pacific. Local legend says that if you make a wish and cross the bridge for the first time while holding your breath, your wish will come true. Of course, we had to try!

Just below the bridge is the Bajada de Baños, an old stone walkway winding downhill toward the ocean. Once used by fishermen heading to the sea, it is now lined with colorful buildings, restored beach houses, flowering bougainvillea, and some wonderful street art.

And the street art is everywhere. Entire walls have been transformed into huge, expressive murals by Peruvian artists, turning Barranco into what feels like one giant open-air gallery. Keep your camera handy—there seems to be something interesting around every corner.

As the sun begins to set, Barranco changes character again. Cafés give way to busy bars, music spills onto the streets, and the neighborhood starts buzzing. We stopped at a couple of local taprooms to sample Peruvian craft beers, some brewed with native ingredients, before moving on to artisan Pisco cocktails.

If you have time, linger into the evening. Barranco is one of Lima’s best neighborhoods for live music, particularly Afro-Peruvian jazz and traditional música criolla. Between the murals, old mansions, ocean views, drinks, and music, Barranco has a completely different energy from Miraflores—and was easily one of the most fun neighborhoods to simply wander around.

Buying Japanese Knives - Without Losing a Finger or Your Wallet

2025-06-11T21:32:00.005-04:00

I’m no knife expert—nor do I collect them. But during a recent trip to Japan, I found myself unexpectedly fascinated by Japanese knives and the quiet reverence people have for them. Sleek, balanced, and unapologetically sharp, they’re as much about craftsmanship as they are about function. If you’re heading to Japan and wondering whether you should splurge on one—yes, you absolutely should. Call me crazy, but I bought four. One for each family member. Because once you slice into a tomato with a well-honed Santoku, there’s no going back.

First, a bit about Western knives. Most of us know the well-known German brands like Zwilling and WÜSTHOF. While Germany isn’t the only place making great knives, there’s a reason it’s considered the standard for Western-style blades: German knife makers are famous for their steel.

German knives are heavy, durable, and built for power—great for tackling bones, squash, or anything that needs brute force. Japanese knives, on the other hand, are lighter, sharper, and built for precision. They glide through vegetables and sushi like butter. Think of German knives as SUVs—rugged and reliable. Japanese knives? Sports cars—sleek, fast, and built for finesse.

Ideally, your kitchen should have both.

Why Japanese Knives?

Japan doesn’t mess around with blades. Whether it’s a samurai sword or a sashimi slicer, the attention to detail is obsessive—in the best way possible. The knives are lighter, thinner, and often sharper than their Western counterparts, which makes precision cutting a breeze.

And let’s be honest: holding a beautiful Japanese knife just makes you feel like a better cook. Even if you're just making grilled cheese.

Types of Japanese Knives (Because Yes, There Are a Lot)

If you're new to this world, the knife shop can feel like a sushi bar with no English menu—overwhelming but exciting.

Here are a few staples:

Santoku – My personal favorite. “Three virtues” = meat, fish, and vegetables. All-purpose. All-awesome. Displayed in the image are three Santoku's with different blade steels, blade sizes and handles.
Gyuto – The Japanese version of the Western chef’s knife. Great for meat-heavy meals.
Nakiri – Flat blade, veggie-chopper’s dream.
Petty – Small utility knife, perfect for fruit and detail work.
Yanagiba – Long, thin blade used for slicing sashimi like a pro. Not necessary unless you moonlight as a sushi chef.

Let’s Talk Steel (It Matters)

Japanese knives come in a buffet of steel types, each with their pros and quirks. Here's the cheat sheet:

High-Carbon Steel – Razor sharp, holds its edge like a samurai on a mission. But it’s needy—prone to rust if you so much as blink at it with a damp sponge. Great if you’re the careful type who dries their knives like fine china.
Stainless Steel – Low-maintenance and forgiving. Modern varieties like VG-10, AUS-10, and stainless blends with carbon powder give you the best of both worlds—sharp, durable, and easier to maintain. My personal favorite for everyday use. You sharpen it, it listens. I bought Stainless Steel VG-10 with carbon powder
Damascus Steel – Technically a layered steel, not a single type. Known for its distinctive wavy patterns, it’s usually a stainless or high-carbon core sandwiched between multiple layers for strength and beauty. Is it just aesthetic? Sometimes. But it's also symbolic of Japanese design: sharp meets stunning.
Iron (Kurouchi finish) – More traditional, sometimes left unpolished with a dark, rustic finish. These knives are often handmade and feel artisanal. But like carbon steel, they rust fast and need babying. Not ideal if your idea of knife care is “toss it in the sink.

If you're a home cook who cooks often but doesn’t want to baby your knife after each use, go stainless. Save the high-carbon for your knife nerd phase.

Handles: Western vs Japanese

Now for the bit that surprises most people: the handles.

Western Handles (Yo Handles) – These are what most home cooks are used to. Ergonomic, full-tang (meaning the metal runs through the entire handle), and typically on the heavier side. If you’ve ever used a Wüsthof or Shun, this will feel familiar—solid, balanced, and built for power chopping.
Japanese Handles (Wa Handles) – Light, minimalist, and often octagonal or D-shaped. These are traditionally made with woods like magnolia, rosewood, ebony, maple or even burnt chestnut, and they give the knife a featherlight grip that feels surprisingly nimble. There’s a satisfying simplicity to them, both in form and function.

Personally, I’ve come to love the Wa handles—they feel like an extension of your hand rather than a tool you're gripping. That said, if you’re transitioning from Western knives, stick with what feels natural at first. There's no wrong answer—just personal preference.

Handle materials range widely:

Wood – My favorite. It’s warm, lightweight, and ages beautifully.
Recycled Ocean Plastic – Yes, that’s a thing—and it's surprisingly attractive and environmentally conscious.
Synthetic – Durable and no-fuss, though sometimes lacking that handmade character.

If you're just getting started, don’t overthink it. Pick the one you can’t stop holding in the shop—that’s usually your answer.

Keeping It Sharp (Without Going Zen Master)

Knife sharpening in Japan is practically a religion. Walk into any knife shop and you’ll likely see someone in an apron, calmly working a blade over a whetstone with the focus of a monk. It's mesmerizing. Rows of wet stones, each with different levels of grit, angled rods, and sharpening rituals so precise they make a tea ceremony look rushed.

But let’s be honest—most of us are not sharpening purists. We don’t own grit charts or watch YouTube videos on blade geometry before breakfast.

So here’s what the shopkeeper advised me (and I’ve come to swear by it):

Get a good roller sharpener.

It’s fast, foolproof, and—most importantly—it won’t mess up the edge or angle of your knife. Brands like Kyocera and Minosharp are excellent choices and widely available in Japan and online.

Save the whetstone for your retirement hobby—right after bonsai gardening and mastering calligraphy.

Knife Maintenance 101

You’ve splurged on a handmade knife from a fifth-generation blacksmith. Now, don’t toss it in the dishwasher like a butter knife.

Do:

Hand wash gently with soap and water
Dry immediately
Store in a wooden sheath (saya), knife block, or blade guard

Don’t:

Cut frozen food or bones unless the knife is made for it
Leave it soaking in the sink
Use glass cutting boards (seriously, why do these even exist? These are slippery and dangerous)

Take care of your knife and it’ll outlive your non-stick pans, your blender, and possibly your marriage. Just kidding (kind of).

Where to Buy?

Tokyo: Kappabashi Street (I bought mine at Kama Asa. Worth the hype.)
Kyoto: Nishiki Market has great options—I bought another from Jikko. Musashi was another popular brand. Some shops even let you choose your blade and handle, then assemble it for you on the spot.
Osaka: Try Jikko if you're in the mood for beautiful craftsmanship.

Final Thoughts

Buying a Japanese knife is more than a souvenir—its serious business. It’s a daily-use piece of functional art. Every slice reminds you of your trip, the culture, the quiet precision of a country that makes even
utility feel beautiful.

Just be warned: once you own one, you may not stop at one.

Japan 15 Day Itinerary - Sushi, Cities & Cultural Guide

2025-06-11T17:41:00.053-04:00

I’ve just returned from a two-week whirlwind through Japan—land of sushi, samurai, and the world's most efficient vending machines. From the neon buzz of Tokyo to the serene shrines of Kyoto, and all the 7-Eleven egg sandwiches in between, here’s a day-by-day recap full of tips, mishaps, and magical moments.

Day 1: Tokyo Arrival – Let the Jet Lag Begin

After 14 hours of recycled cabin air and mediocre airplane rice, we touched down at Haneda. Checked into the Hyatt Regency in Shinjuku (great location—walkable to metro stations and very civilized 7-Eleven next door). Pro travel tip: Japan’s 7-Eleven is not your sad American version. We made our first pilgrimage for...egg sandwiches. Yes, they’re that good. Trust me.

Day 2: Mt. Fuji, Hakone, and Onsen Relaxation

Mt Fuji

Booked a private driver/guide for a full-day Mt. Fuji tour ($350 well spent). Weather was cooperative (Fuji-san peeked out like a shy celebrity), and the driver took us through scenic villages and photo op stops on the north and east sides.

Tokyo- Shibuya Crossing

Back in Shinjuku, we wandered into neon-lit alleys of Omoide Yokocho and stumbled upon an amazing sushi spot thanks to our local friend’s golden rule: Japanese-only listings + 4.5 stars = culinary jackpot.

Day 3: Temples, Tea, Knives & History

Started the day in Asakusa at the iconic Senso-ji Temple, followed by a stroll down Nakamise Street. Touristy? Sure. But worth it for the matcha ice cream and good vibes.

Next up: Kappabashi Street—Tokyo’s kitchen district. Japanese chefs treat knives like sacred tools. We did too. Picked up a few blades from Kama Asa (but I now regret not waiting for Kyoto... more on that later).

Also squeezed in a shrine devoted to cats (Imado-jinja) and skipped Skytree’s observation deck—because the one at the Tokyo Government Building is free and fabulous.

Evening view of Shibuya Crossing from the Starbucks window = iconic chaos in motion.

Day 4: Fish, Palaces & Jiro Dreams

Tokyo - Imperial Palace

Joined a free walking tour via GuruWalk that snaked through the Imperial Palace area to the bustling (and slightly overwhelming) Tsukiji Outer Market. Tip: it’s pricey, but the tuna is basically sushi royalty.

Then began my sushi pilgrimage: hunting down the legendary Jiro Sushi in Ginza. Did I eat there? No. Did I peer into the holy temple of omakase greatness? Absolutely. Pro tip: Watch Jiro Dreams of Sushi before your trip.

Japan is a land of fascinating dichotomies. On one hand, it's a society steeped in conformity and order—there are virtually no public trash cans, yet not a speck of litter. Public toilets are scarce, yet the streets are immaculate. People exit train stations in silent, choreographed streams, no music blaring, no chaos—just quiet efficiency. And yet, this same country births some of the world’s boldest innovations, from high-speed trains to robot cafes to earthquake-resistant architecture that feels like science fiction. What drives this? Maybe it’s the country’s relationship with nature—the looming presence of tsunamis, typhoons, and earthquakes. In a place where disruption is always possible, efficiency isn’t just a virtue—it’s a survival skill. Innovation, in Japan, feels less like a choice and more like a cultural necessity, beautifully wrapped in humility and precision.

Day 5: Anime Overload in Akihabara

Started the day with a return trip to the Tokyo Government Building for panoramic views (did I mention it’s free?). Then wandered Akihabara—Tokyo’s mecca for anime, manga, and electronics. Unless you’re a true fan, a half-day here is plenty.

Tokyo - Akhilbara

Pro tip: Nakano Broadway is a quieter, alternative spot if you're hunting for pre-loved luxury goods and quirky collectibles.

Day 6: Odaiba & TeamsLab... Almost

Spent the day in the futuristic Odaiba district with views of Tokyo Bay and the Rainbow Bridge. Tried to visit TeamLab Planets but—rookie mistake—didn’t book tickets in advance. Learn from me: Book. Ahead.

Tokyo - NishiShinjuku

Tokyo is one of the largest and busiest cities in the world—a vertical sprawl of high-rises packed with young professionals, endless train lines, and crosswalks that pulse like rivers of people. Green space? Nearly nonexistent. And yet, the city is spotless. No litter. No trash cans. Just an unspoken commitment to order. And the service—whether at a convenience store or a high-end sushi bar—is consistently warm, precise, and respectful. Step outside the metropolis, though, and a different Japan emerges. Rural communities are quiet and compact. Homes are small, often with little to no garden. All the green you see is purposeful—either cultivated in tiny rice plots or stretching into forested mountains. There’s a calmness to these towns, a slower rhythm that feels like a deep breath after Tokyo’s charge. It’s a striking contrast—and a reminder that Japan’s beauty lies not just in its modern marvels, but in its quiet contradictions.

Day 7: Kamakura – Zen, Buddha & Bamboo

Took the 1 hour trip via JR to Kamakura for a day of temple hopping: the Great Buddha, Hasedera Temple, and the soothing Bamboo Garden. Highly walkable and meditative. Watch out for school groups and street food—you’ll want to try everything.

Day 8: Kyoto Temples, Tea and History

Zoomed to Kyoto via the Nozomi Shinkansen (fastest train, fewer stops, and no JR Pass needed—more on that later). Stayed at the Cross Hotel Kyoto—great location.

Nishiki Market? Total tourist trap. Loved it anyway. Also: Kyoto’s knife shops are on another level. If I had known, I’d have waited to buy mine here. We spent the evening walking the main street of Geisha district and

Mt Fuji

under the lights of Yasaka Shrine and Pagoda.

Day 9: Fushimi Inari & Sake Heaven

Beat the crowds to Fushimi Inari Shrine. Pro tip: the best view is halfway up at Yotsutsuji—not the summit. There’s a secret bamboo forest entrance, but I learned about it after the hike. (Next time!)

Post-hike, we soaked in sake culture at Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum and the Sake Village—a literal booze playground for grown-ups.

Day 10: Gold Shrines & Geisha Streets

Visited Kyoto’s famous golden shrine, Kinkaku-ji, then wandered through the storied Nijo Castle. Joined another GuruWalk through Gion at sunset—Geisha sightings included. Ended the night with a pair of Onitsuka Tigers (and another knife, because… Japan).

Day 11: Bamboo Forest & A Samurai That Wasn’t

Bamboo Forest

Explored the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and strolled through town. Rain cut our golden temple visit short, but we still managed a tea ceremony (kimono-free) and a disappointing Samurai experience (husband's verdict: meh).

Day 12: Nara – Big Buddha & Bambi

We wrapped up our day trip to Nara with a visit to Todai-ji Temple to meet the Great Buddha—serene, enormous, and a must-see. Nara Park, meanwhile, was overrun with deer who’ve clearly figured out tourists = snacks. Let’s just say they don’t understand personal space. Or subtlety.

By evening, we hopped on a short train to Osaka and checked into a hotel in the Umeda district. It’s a lively area with plenty of shopping and dining, but not much in terms of major attractions. For atmosphere and energy, Dotonbori is where Osaka truly comes alive.

Now, let’s talk about Japan’s train stations. They’re not stations—they’re subterranean cities. Umeda Station in Osaka is a particularly cruel maze. Multi-level, endless exits, and a full-blown shopping complex thrown in for extra chaos. Twice, we attempted to find highly recommended restaurants. Google showed "Done". Reality said "Good luck." We asked locals. We followed walking directions. We walked in circles for what felt like hours. Never found them. Japan may have perfected punctuality, but train station navigation? That's still a work in progress.

Day 13: Osaka Streetfood and Nightlife

Osaka Castle

Explored Osaka Castle, Dotonbori, and Shinsaibashi Arcade. Ate too much, walked it off, and watched Namba nightlife come alive.

Day 14: Hiroshima & Miyajima Island

Hiroshima

An emotional visit to Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park and the Atomic Bomb Dome left us reflective and quiet. History weighs heavy for generations—and it should. Given the war in Ukraine and in Palestine, this trip felt so heavy. Wars are never the answer.

Miyajima Island

Afterward, we took the 45-minute ferry (conveniently departing from right near the park) to Miyajima Island to visit the iconic “floating” torii gate. The tide was out, so it wasn’t technically floating, but still—majestic. Towering, tranquil, unforgettable. And the oysters? Fresh off the grill, melt-in-your-mouth, worth flying back for.

Day 15: Farewell to Japan

Late flight out of Kansai Airport. Bags heavier (knives, shoes, KitKats, Korean skincare, sake-so tempted but did not buy and lots of lots of great memories), heart fuller.

Travel Tips: Rail Passes, Etiquette & Budgeting

JR Pass? We skipped it. Unless you plan to ping-pong across Japan, individual tickets may be cheaper and more flexible.
Transport: Suica Card on Apple Wallet is life. Subway 1-3 day passes are cheap and useful.
Cash: Best rates were at 7-Eleven ATMs.
Language barrier? Google Translate is your best friend.
Trip MVP? Google Maps for all transit guidance, obviously.

Arigato Japan. You were polite, precise, superbly efficient and painfully beautiful. Sayonara!

December Skiing in Breckenridge

2024-12-30T21:03:00.002-05:00

Skiing in Breckenridge: My December 2024 Experience

There’s something magical about Breckenridge. The crisp mountain air, the soft crunch of snow underfoot, and the sight of snow-covered peaks make it feel like stepping into a winter postcard. If you’re considering a ski trip this holiday season, Breckenridge should be at the top of your list. With its festive charm, world-class skiing, and breathtaking mountain views, it’s a destination that truly has it all. Here’s a glimpse into my unforgettable December 2024 experience.

The Peaks of Breckenridge: A Mountain for Everyone

One of the things that makes Breckenridge so special is its expansive terrain spread across **five peaks**—Peak 6, Peak 7, Peak 8, Peak 9, and Peak 10. These peaks stretch from **north to south**, offering something for every type of skier or snowboarder.

Overview of the Peaks (From Left to Right)

Peak 6 - Intermediate & Advanced | Wide-open bowls and high-alpine terrain with stunning views. |

Peak 7 - Intermediate | Smooth, groomed trails perfect for building confidence. |

Peak 8 - Beginner to Expert | The heart of the resort with terrain parks, beginner areas, and expert chutes. |

Peak 9 - Beginner & Intermediate | Family-friendly slopes with easy access from town. |

Peak 10 - Advanced & Expert | Steep black diamonds and technical glades for thrill-seekers. |

A Closer Look at Each Peak

1. Peak 6 (Northernmost):

- Known for its high-alpine terrain and wide-open bowls like "The Dunes."

- Perfect for intermediate and advanced skiers looking for breathtaking views and less crowded runs.

2. Peak 7:

- Tailored for intermediate skiers with groomed trails like "Monte Cristo."

- A great place to refine your skills before tackling more challenging terrain.

3. Peak 8 (The Central Hub):

- The original peak where Breckenridge began and still the heart of the resort.

- Lower sections are ideal for beginners and intermediates, while upper areas feature advanced chutes like the "Lake Chutes."

- Home to iconic terrain parks like Freeway (black diamond) and Park Lane (blue).

- Don’t miss the Imperial Express SuperChair—the highest lift in North America—for access to expert terrain above the treeline.

4. Peak 9:

- A haven for beginners with wide-open trails like "Silverthorne."

- Family-friendly atmosphere with plenty of space to learn and enjoy skiing at your own pace.

5. Peak 10 (Southernmost):

- Reserved for advanced and expert skiers with steep black diamond runs and technical glades.

- The Falcon SuperChair ensures quick access to challenging terrain without long wait times.

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Why December Is a Good Time to Go

By December, Breckenridge is in full swing for the ski season. Thanks to its high elevation (base at 9,600 feet) and state-of-the-art snowmaking systems, there was excellent snow coverage. The mix of natural snowfall and groomed runs creates that perfect powdery surface that makes skiing here such a dream.

The resort also shines because of its festive holiday atmosphere. Main Street is decked out in twinkling lights, and events like the **Lighting of Breckenridge**, the **Race of the Santas**, and the **Ullr Fest** bring a sense of festiveness to the town. Walking through the town with a hot cocoa in hand feels like stepping into a holiday snow globe.

Having said that, December (especially between Christmas and New Year) is a very expensive time to go with many days considered as black-out for use with Epic Pass and ther discounts. No matter when you go, Breck is a great option, but December around Xmas is more festive.

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For Every Skier (Or Non-Skier)

Breckenridge caters to everyone:

- **Beginners:** Peaks 8 and 9 offer gentle slopes perfect for learning or refining your skills.

- **Intermediate Skiers:** Peaks 7 and lower Peak 8 provide smooth groomers ideal for carving turns.

- **Advanced/Expert Skiers:** Peak 10’s black diamonds and Peak 6’s high-alpine bowls will challenge even seasoned pros.

Not a skier? Things to do off the slopes:

- Take a scenic gondola ride.

- Explore Main Street’s charming shops.

- Try snowshoeing or cross-country skiing at one of Breckenridge’s Nordic Centers.

- Simply enjoy the festive atmosphere while sipping on a warm drink by the fire.

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Little Lessons I Learned

Here are some tips from my trip that might help you plan yours:

- Book Early: December is busy! Secure your lift tickets (they are expensive), rentals, and accommodations well in advance. If you’re skiing multiple days, consider an Epic Pass for savings.

- Dress Smart: Temperatures drop significantly at higher elevations. Layer up, invest in good gloves, and don’t forget a neck warmer. When the sun is out, it gets pretty warm even at the top of the mountain.

- Start Early: Morning runs are less crowded, offering pristine conditions before midday traffic picks up. If you are going to take Silverthorne which gets really crowded, don’t come all the way down to the base. Spend time skiing at the top of the mountain, there are so many peaks and so much variety. The only best time to come down is the end of the day.

- Mountain Hop: While it can take some time to traverse from one peak to another, that is the funnest part of Breckenridge. Plan your slope routes, stay up mountain, criss-cross the peaks to make the most of your ski tickets.

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Après-Ski

Half the fun of skiing is unwinding afterward with some good food and drinks. Breckenridge has a large variety of après-ski scene:

- For a casual vibe, head to T-Bar at Peak 8.

- If you’re craving something upscale, Main Street offers many delicious food options with great views.

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Why Breckenridge Stands Out

Breckenridge - it’s an experience. With five peaks offering diverse terrain, a lively town brimming with holiday spirit, and unparalleled mountain views, it’s no wonder Breckenridge boasts highest volume of skiers in US year after year and most of them repeat visitors.

If you’re thinking about planning a ski trip to Breck, I say go for it! Book early, Pack your layers, and get ready for an unforgettable adventure in one of Colorado’s most iconic mountain towns. Whether you’re carving turns on Peak 7 or enjoying hot cocoa on Main Street under twinkling lights, Breckenridge will leave you feeling like you’ve stepped into a winter dream.

10 Day Trip Morocco - Medinas & Souks

2024-09-27T20:20:00.333-04:00

Day 1: Arrival in Casablanca (September 27)

This year our annual girls trip was to to the city of Sunsets and Souks, Morocco. While our Moroccan journey began in the city of Casablanca, we were simply transiting through that city upon arrival. Most first timers either begin their itinerary in Casablanca or in Marrakesh. No matter where the trip starts, the trip circuit is the same. It either goes clockwise or anti-clockwise. After a long flight, the first of our girls friends arrived late at night, greeted by the warm embrace of the city. She settled into Hotel Kenzi Basma, about 20 min from the airport, ready to embark on the adventure ahead.

Day 2: Transition to Marrakech (September 28)

The next day started with a bunch more of us arriving from different parts of the world, gathering of friends, at Casablanca Airport. We had pre-arranged our pickup with our tour guide with a van. Together, we set off for Marrakech, the vibrant “Red City.” After settling into Riad La Croix Berbere Deluxe, located in Marrakesh medina (historical city center), the evening was ours to explore and unwind.

A Moroccan riad is unique for its central courtyard, intricate tilework, serene ambiance, rooftop terraces, and personalized hospitality, offering an authentic cultural experience. While most Riads are located in the medinas of Moroccan cities like Marrakech or Fes, some riads can also be found in quieter outskirts or rural areas, offering a peaceful retreat with the same traditional charm.

That evening, we toyed with the idea of visiting the serene Majorelle Gardens but left it for another day. The remainder of this day was spent hanging out in the market square (which was only a short walk away) and catching up with friends.

Day 3: Exploring Marrakech (September 29)

After a sumptuous Moroccan breakfast, a guided tour of Marrakech was the highlight of the day. The lush Yves Saint Laurent Gardens greeted us first, a serene oasis amidst the city’s energy. We admired the towering Koutoubia Mosque from the outside and meandered through the lively souks and the historic Jewish Quarter. At the Bahia Palace, history whispered through intricately adorned walls.

The Marrakech medina is a bustling UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its vibrant souks, narrow winding alleys, historic palaces, mosques, and bustling Jemaa el-Fnaa square, all steeped in rich Moroccan culture and history.

As the day waned, the Riad welcomed us back for a relaxing evening and a rooftop dinner of traditional Moroccan fare.

One special activity was a hammam, a hot water and steam-filled traditional spa experience focused on cleansing, exfoliating the skin with black soap, scrubbing with a kessa glove, and applying ghassoul clay. Treatment delivered by other women (or men), Hammams are an integral part of Moroccan culture.

We stopped at a cooperative to buy some Argon oil. While the oil seemed very pure, it was rather expensive as we found out later.

Day 4: The Road to Dades Valley (September 30)

Departing Marrakech, we ventured into the breathtaking High Atlas Mountains. The winding Tizi N’Tichka Pass offered incredible panoramas. A stop at Ait Ben Haddou transported us to a bygone era of earthen kasbahs and movie sets. This UNESCO World Heritage Site and an ancient fortified village, located near Ouarzazate, showcases traditional Berber construction and has served as the backdrop for iconic films like Gladiator, James Bond and Game of Thrones. Its dramatic landscape and preserved cultural heritage make it a must-visit destination.

We had traditional lunch which included dishes like tagines (slow-cooked stews with meat, vegetables, and spices), couscous (steamed semolina served with vegetables and meat), harira (hearty soup with lentils and chickpeas), refreshing raw salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, and parsley and mint tea, a staple drink. The food characterized by aromatic spices like cumin, saffron, and cinnamon, and a blend of sweet and savory flavors the lunch was only overshadowed by the ancient city.

Continuing through Skoura and Kelaa Mgouna, we reached the enchanting Dades Valley, where rock formations and lush gardens framed our stay at Kasbah Didis.

Day 5: Into the Merzouga Desert (October 1)

We journeyed deeper into Morocco, visiting the awe-inspiring Todgha Gorges before reaching the golden dunes of Erg Chebbi. Camel trekking led us into the heart of the Sahara, where a luxury camp awaited. The evening brought a fiery sunset, dinner, music and dancing around a fire pit— and stargazing under the expansive desert sky.

En route, we stopped at a local shop to buy a desert turban (veil), a long piece of fabric, made of cotton, wrapped around the head and face to protect against harsh sun, wind, and sand in the desert. It is especially popular among the Berber people of North Africa. Be aware of local hawkers charging an arm and a log for their veils, unlikely you will ever use it again, but it makes a good Insta-worthy picture.

Day 6: From the Desert to Fes (October 2)

The day began with a magical desert sunrise. From Merzouga, we traversed the Ziz Valley, capturing snapshots of palm groves and pausing for lunch in Midelt. En route to Fes, we drove by the Cedar Forest, where playful monkeys swung from the trees. By evening, the historical city of Fes welcomed us warmly at Riad au 20 Jasmins.

While tagine was delightful for the first few days, by day four, having it for both lunch and dinner started to feel a bit repetitive. Its mild flavors, though comforting, left us craving something spicier. Luckily, we had packed an Indian spice mix, which quickly became our secret weapon. We sprinkled it liberally on salads, yogurt, and even tagine, instantly transforming the dishes. To our surprise, the kebabs at roadside eateries turned out to be exceptionally flavorful, offering a welcome change. In Fez and other touristy areas, we also began exploring Chinese, Thai, and Indian cuisines, adding some much-needed variety to our meals.

Day 7: Discovering Fes (October 3)

With the guidance of a knowledgeable local expert, we delved into the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco—Fez. The grandeur of the Royal Palace gates, coupled with the intricate artisan workshops of Fes el Bali, revealed stories etched into every corner of the ancient city. Wandering through the vibrant souks and narrow alleys felt like stepping into a living museum. The iconic tanneries, with their vibrant dye pits, offered a glimpse into traditional leather-making techniques. Yet, the tannery experience was bittersweet; the pungent, lingering odor surrounding the tanneries made it a sensory challenge. It was a visit that leaves a lasting impression—and since then, I've found myself steering clear of real leather.

While in Fez, we stumbled into a local music festival, I believe its called the Fez Festival of Sufi Culture, an event where many local Sufi groups perform music and dance as they move in a procession through the medina. The procession with filled with small local bands singing and dancing, people lining both sides of the narrow medina streets and creating a lively atmosphere in the historic city center. It's was a great experience in traditional Moroccan music up close and personal.

As the day drew to a close, the peaceful ambiance of the Riad offered a perfect retreat, balancing the intensity of the city with serene comfort.

Day 8: Journey to Chefchaouen (October 4)

The drive to Chefchaouen, the “Blue Pearl,” was a visual treat, with the Rif Mountains painting the landscape. Wandering through its picturesque blue streets, we found ourselves enchanted by the Utta Hammam Square and Ras El Ma springs. At Dar Mounir, we rested amidst the charm of this unique town.

This was by far the prettiest town/city and also the smallest. Walking from one end to another was easy. Walking late night was safe. If you plan to buy Argon oil, we found that it was pure and cheaper than all other towns here. The bottles come in varying sizes.

Right in the city, is a popular hike to view the sunset, leading to a small Spanish Mosque. Built in the 1920s, this mosque sits atop a hill just east of the medina. The easy and leisurely trail is only approx 1.5 kilometers (about 1 mile) round trip taking 20 to 30 minutes each way. Upon reaching the summit, you are rewarded with panoramic views of the Blue City and the surrounding Rif Mountains, making it an ideal spot to witness the sunset.

Day 9: Chefchaouen to Casablanca (October 5)

Bidding farewell to Chefchaouen, we returned to Casablanca. A visit to the iconic Hassan II Mosque capped off our Moroccan adventure. At night we took a quick trip to the waterfront and then settled into Hotel Kenzi Basma for the final night.

Day 10: Departures and Farewells (October 6)

The trip concluded with a city tour of Casablanca before heading to the airport. Goodbyes marked the end of a journey filled with incredible memories, laughter, and an appreciation for Morocco’s hospitality, beauty and culture.

Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Chefchouan

Alleys of Medina

Spice shops in the medina

Tannery in Fez

Narrow alleys of a medina

Royal Palace, Fez

Sahara, Merzouga Desert

Zik Zak road, Dades Valley

Riad

Hidden Gems, Aspen, Colorado

2024-08-22T23:32:00.006-04:00

Colorado is undoubtedly one of the most traveled and tourist-friendly states year-round, with nearly every corner known for its appeal to visitors. While some towns and areas have become well-known tourist destinations, there are still a few hidden gems that remain less traveled. Here, I highlight a couple of these lesser-known spots that deserve to be explored.

Maroon Bells Hike, Aspen Highlands, Colorado

The Maroon Bells are a series of bell-shaped peaks approximately 14,000 ft. high in the White River National Forest towering above the pristine glacial Maroon Creek valley. I learnt only recently that the peaks are on every Colorado post card, and are the most photographed mountains in Colorado. Located 10 miles west of Aspen and 16 miles from Snowmass, the Maroon Bells valley includes several hiking trails, camping sites, and biking paths.

Because this area is so popular for hiking, the access is now limited during the summer and fall. In order to hike, reservations are now required to access either by private vehicle or by RFTA shuttle. If you are staying in Aspen, you can take the hotel shuttle to Aspen Highlands downtown. From there take the RFTA shuttle to the trailhead. To make your reservation, click here.

There are several hikes in the area, some easy and others moderate. We did the Crater Lake Trail, a 3.6-mile round-trip trail that took us approx 2:30 hrs. While its considered a moderate hike, its steep and rocky ascent as well as cooler temperatures adds a bit of a challenge. The rewards are breathtaking vistas of Aspen woodlands and a beautiful Crater Lake.

Montrose, Colorado

After Aspen, we decided to spend a couple of days in south western Colorado hiking and visiting towns less travelled by tourists. We chose to stay in Montrose, Colorado at Rathbone Hotel. Little did we know Montrose is/was a Republican county, until we were driving and saw Trump 2024 flags. Well, Republican or not, as Kamala Harris supporters, we watched the DNC event from our room. Rathbone, is a brand new, non-chain, and very comfortable hotel located right in the historical downtown of Montrose. The lower level is a restaurant and bar, and the upper level includes generously sized hotel rooms. We ate breakfast at Forage, another brand new restaurant with a very charming and gracious proprietor. Republican or not, Montrose definitely seems to be benefitting from the Democrat sponsored Infrastructure Law. Almost everywhere you see buildings bring renovated, highways being repaved, and areas under development.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Nestled in western Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers an inspiring day trip filled with breathtaking views, rugged landscapes, and a sense of solitude that’s hard to find in more frequented parks. Approximately a 3 hours driving distance from Aspen, lies this hidden gem filled with nature's raw beauty.

Arrival and First Impressions

I arrived at the park early in the morning. The drive to the park itself is a scenic journey through the high desert landscape, gradually giving way to the dramatic, steep walls of the canyon.

Oak Flat Loop: A Perfect Introduction

My first stop was the visitor center at the South Rim to pick up a trail map and connect with the rangers. I began my exploration with the Oak Flat Loop, a moderate 2-mile trail that offers some of the most intimate views of the canyon. The trail winds through juniper and pinyon pine forests, gradually descending towards the canyon’s rim. Along the way, I encountered several overlooks, each providing an amazing view of the sheer cliffs and the Gunnison River far below.

The Oak Flat Loop is a great introduction to the park’s landscape, as it allows you to see the canyon from various angles without committing to a more strenuous downward hike. The trail is well-marked and offers plenty of opportunities to pause and take in the dramatic scenery. One moment you’re walking through a peaceful forest, and the next, you’re standing at the edge of a cliff, gazing down into the dizzying depths of the canyon.

The Overlooks

After completing the Oak Flat Loop, I spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the various overlooks along the South Rim. Each overlook provides a different perspective of the canyon, showcasing its unique geology and the interplay of light and shadow on its dark, towering walls. While I stopped at each overlook, my favorite were:

Pulpit Rock View:
Chasm View: This overlook offers a striking view of the canyon’s narrowest point, where the walls are only 40 feet apart at the top but drop nearly 2,000 feet straight down. The sense of depth here is truly humbling.
Painted Wall: The Painted Wall is the tallest cliff in Colorado, and the overlook provides a perfect vantage point to admire its intricate patterns of light-colored pegmatite streaking across the dark rock. I chose this location for a light picnic lunch.
Cedar Point: This overlook gives a fantastic view of the Gunnison River winding its way through the canyon far below. The sound of the river, though faint, adds to the experience of standing at the edge of this immense chasm.
East Portal: Located near the park entrance is the road to East Portal. This road takes you close to the river without the hike. The road is steep and curving on a steep grade but beautiful.

If you’re looking for a day trip that combines stunning scenery with a sense of solitude and discovery, Black Canyon is the place to go. Just remember to bring your camera, and water, because the views are unforgettable.

4 Days in Barcelona, Spain

2024-03-14T18:07:00.013-04:00

Day 1: Raindrops and Ramblas

Our adventure in Barcelona began with a soggy Saturday morning arrival. Rainy day and the redeye flight: a match made in discomfort heaven. But for the promise of being in Spain for the first time and the Spanish sun on the horizon was enough not to damper our excitement.

Plaça Catalunya

Morning: Bleary-eyed and caffeine deprived, we stumbled into a cozy café next door to our Marriott apartment on La Rambla. Nothing like a strong cup of Americano to kickstart the day. Our early check-in was a breeze, the property management company very accommodating. While our digs were compact (as most apartments in Europe are), they were conveniently located – a stone's throw away from many of the tourist hotspots.

Afternoon: With raindrops tap-dancing on the pavement, we opted for a catnap to recharge our batteries. Once the clouds parted, we ventured to Passeig de Gracia for some window shopping. Who needs cheap souvenirs when you can drool over the designer handbags? Passeig de Gràcia is the famous boulevard in Barcelona, that starts from the lively Plaça Catalunya, the historic city centre to the neighbourhood of Gràcia. Most of the luxury store brands, restaurants and Bars, the Gaudi house and many tourist hotspots are located along this main boulevard or close to this boulevard. Highly recommend staying in one of the hotels/apartments close to Passieg de Gracia or La Rambla.

Casa Villa La Pedrera

Evening: Dinner at Bar Mut in the Gracia neighborhood was a seafood tapas extravaganza. We tried red vermouth (Yzaguirre) for an aperitif and what a charming surprise. For the remainder of our trip, red vermouth was our drink of choice with varying sweetness and redness. We dined on tapas that included octopus, oysters, Paella, peppers and more. On the way to the restaurant, we couldn't help but marvel at the Gaudí-esque architecture peppered throughout the neighborhood, including the striking Casa Villa La Pedrera. After dinner, we walked back and called it an early night

Day 2: Sunny Side Up

Sunday dawned bright and beautiful, a welcome change from the previous day's drizzle.

Casa Battlo

Morning: After a simple coffee and croissant breakfast, we embarked on a tour of Casa Battlo, Gaudí's architectural marvel on Rbla Catalunya. Equipped with handheld devices, we delved into the whimsical world of Gaudí. The house's undulating façade and dreamlike interiors left us feeling like characters in his fairy tale. Strongly recommend getting tickets in advance during peak season. Access to "Special areas" is not worth it.

Afternoon: A leisurely stroll down Rbla Catalunya led us to Port Vell, where we soaked up the sun and people-watched by the pier. The juxtaposition of old and new, with modern yachts bobbing beside ancient buildings, was a sight to behold. When evening rolled around, we joined the football rowdy crowd at Flaherty's Irish pub in Gothic Quarter to catch an Arsenal game.

Evening: Our wanderlust led us through the labyrinthine streets of the Gothic Quarter, past the majestic Barcelona Cathedral. We indulged in hot churros with chocolate and savored tapas and paella. The narrow alleys of the Gothic Quarter, and balcony's decorated with flowers whispered tales of centuries past, while the bustling plazas echoed with the laughter of locals and tourists alike.

La Rambla

A Gothic Quarter alley

Port Vell

Day 3: Gaudí Galore

Monday was all about embracing Barcelona's Gaudí-infused charm.

Morning: After yet another breakfast of freshly baked croissants and cappuccino, we hailed a taxi to Park Güell. Despite the crowds, Gaudí's whimsical park was a charm. From the colorful mosaic benches to the lizard sculpture, every corner seemed to hold a very Gaudi (no pun intended) surprise.

Mercy de Santa Caterina

Afternoon: On way back from the park, we took a taxi ride to the ongoing masterpiece that is Sagrada Familia. We marveled at the still under construction church going on for 200 some years. What captivated me most was the abundance of natural light filtering in from the stained glass windows, highlighting the stone forest Gaudi designed. Outside the richness of the sculptures and the facade really captures your attention and to be honest overwhelm the senses. From Sagrada Familia, we then meandered through Arc de Triomf and Parc de Ciutadella. The fruit topped towering spires of Sagrada Familia reached towards the sky, a testament to human creativity. As we wandered through Parc de Ciutadella, we were enchanted by its serene beauty, from the lush greenery to the shimmering lake.

Barcelona Cathedral

Evening: En route to the Cathedral, we stumbled upon architectural wonders like Mercy de Santa Caterina and Mercy de Sant Antoni. A quick stop for some wine (red vermouth) and snacks recharged our weary legs, allowing us to appreciate the cathedral's intricate glasswork. The Gothic Quarter glowed in the evening light, its ancient streets bathed in a golden hue, discovering the many marble fountains and metal ones too reminding that these common areas and water fountains were where the people congregated socially for centuries and people that live there still do. We couldn't help but feel a sense of wonder at the richness that surrounded us.

Gothic Quarter alley

Parc Guell

Sagrada Familia

Day 4: Market Marvels

Tuesday dawned with a visit to Mercado de la Boqueria (not too far from Placa Catalunya), where we feasted on Oysters, fresh fruits, empanadas, and of course, jamón ibérico with aged manchengo cheese.

Mercado de la Boqueria

Morning: We explored the vibrant Eixample neighborhood, soaking in the authentic local vibe. From charming cafes to bustling markets, every corner seemed to hold a new discovery. The lively atmosphere was infectious, and we found ourselves drawn deeper into the heart of the neighborhood near University of Barceloa and walking along the Rbla Rambla.

Evening: Before leaving Barsa, a sandwich from Bo de B (In Gothic quarter not too far from the Cathedral is a must have. The lines are long, mostly exchange students. Grab a sandwich (ask for all toppings and all sauces) and potato fries. Sit by the steps of the cathedral and enjoy this meal to make a lifelong memory. As our Barcelona escapade drew to a close, we reflect on how much more there is to do in Barcelona, a football game, the stadium, the olympic park..next time perhaps.

Mercado de la Boqueria

Day 5: Adieu

Today we bid adieu to the bustling streets of Barca. We boarded the fast train to Madrid, carrying memories of Gaudí, red vermouth, tapas, and the warm Spanish sun. Adiós, Barca – until we meet again!

Two days in Porto and Duoro Valley, Portugal

2023-10-13T11:57:00.013-04:00

Arrival in Porto

Arriving in Porto sets the stage for an enchanting evening in this Portuguese gem. After settling into your hotel or apartment, take a moment to freshen up and unwind. But don't linger too long, for the city has a delightful evening to offer. Start by strolling to the near by Monastery of Serra do Pilar, where you'll be rewarded with a magnificent view of Porto, particularly as the sun sets, painting the sky with warm hues. It's a breathtaking sight.

As the evening deepens, continue your adventure on the Gaia side of the Ribeira. Wander the narrow cobbled streets in the Wow cultural district. Walk towards the river and you'll find a plethora of charming cafes by the riverside offering many dining choices. Opt for a table facing the Porto side, to a stunning sunset spectacle. The lit bridge, the monastic silhouette, and the illuminated buildings on the Porto waterfront create a picturesque panorama that's just amazing.

Serra do Pilar

Day 1

Rise early next morning to embark on a day of exploration in Porto, Portugal. There is much to see, and your first stop should be Sao Bento, a place that's often hailed as one of the most beautiful train stations in the world – and rightly so. As you step into the station, you'll be greeted by a breathtaking sight. The walls are adorned with intricate blue and white azulejo tiles that tell the stories of Portugal's rich history. These meticulously hand-painted tiles transform the station into a living work of art, capturing the essence of the country's culture and heritage. Sao Bento is not just a transportation hub; it's a historical and architectural gem that will leave you in awe of the craftsmanship that went into its creation. So, rise early, and let Sao Bento be your first glimpse into the captivating beauty of Porto.

Once you've marveled at the artistic beauty of Sao Bento, stroll over to the Cathedral. As you ascend to the top, be sure to pause and wonder at the hand-painted tiled wall. Each tile tells a unique story, and the intricate details are bound to leave you in awe. It's a moment of quiet appreciation.

Sao Bento

Porto Cathedral

If you did not go to the Monastery the evening before, now is another opportunity. Walk across the Ponte Luiz bridge and climb up the monastery for a great view.

Return to Sao Bento but continue towards the city hall. Along the way stop to admire what might possibly be the most beautiful McDonald Imperial.

On the right hand side of the city hall is a shopping district. Go to Majestic Cafe, where JK Rowling wrote several chapters of the first Harry Potter book, the Sorcerer Stone. Grab lunch at the cafe and walk about the lively shopping district.

Majestic Cafe

Walk to the Igreja des Carmelitas and then on to Tower (Torre de Clerigos). If its still early in the afternoon, this might be a good time for a short break and to rest.

Walk on to Mercado Ferreira and then on to the riverside towards the wine museum (Museum Vinho do Porto). Continue to explore the city by foot visiting the beaches of Porto where the Duoro river meets the Atlantic ocean. Walk back towards the Ribeira to enjoy rest of the evening with a glass of Sangria, music and people watching at one of the many cafes, this time on the Porto side of the river.

Day 2: Douro Valley Trip

There are many ways to visit the Douro Valley (https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/douro-valley-portugal), such as taking a train to and from Porto to Pinhao, or a river boat from Porto to Pinhao and back via the train. Both routes offer scenic beauty but neither will take you to visit a Quinta (vineyard). An option is to join a tour bus. We chose to rent a car and were fortunate to have a knowledgeable local guide from Porto.

Our day began early at 8:30 am, and after an hour of driving, we made a pit stop at Amarante (https://portugaltravelguide.com/amarante-portugal/), a charming town on the banks of Tâmega. A former monastery of São Gonçalo dates back to 1540 and houses a lovely interior of painted columns and a dramatic high altar. Here, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast, savoring Brioche croissants, Amarante pastries, and coffee. After breakfast, we walked over to Don Rodrigo Taberna to buy some local goat and cow milk cheese, prosciutto, chorizo and pao for lunch and to taste local green wine and red wine.

São Gonçalo

Our next destination was Quinta de Santa Eufemia (https://www.qtastaeufemia.com/i-about.html), a small winery nestled in the heart of the Douro Valley, still managed by the original family. We tried several of their wines including the white wine, Towny red wine, 10-year Port, and the LBV port. The tour and the tasting left us in high spirits, and we were ready for a relaxing picnic lunch prepared by our guide at a scenic lookout point.

After the picnic lunch, we drove over to Pinhao, a small town nestled in the Duoro valley, that offered a train station, a hotel, a couple of restaurants, and wine stores. From Pinhao, we embarked on an hour-long local boat trip to savor the beauty of stepped terraces in the Douro Valley (https://www.fortheloveofport.com/historic-terraces-in-the-douro/).

Heading back to Porto, the intoxicating day left us exhausted and ready for a peaceful night’s rest.

Day 3: Beaches of Porto

Our last day in Porto was a half-day, as our train back to Lisbon was in the afternoon. To make the most of our time, we asked our local guide to take us to the various beaches of Porto and Gaia. This relaxing beach excursion served as a serene conclusion to our unforgettable journey through this beautiful Portuguese city.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/capela-do-senhora-da-pedra

3 days in Lisbon, Portugal - Tinned fish, cod croquettes and Ginjinha

2023-10-11T15:37:00.015-04:00

The main historical neighborhoods inn Portugal include Chiado, Bairro Alto, Alfama and Belem. In general, most areas within the central/historical Lisbon are walkable but easier to go uphill in a vehicle and come down on your own two feet. We uber’ed when going uphill (or longer distances such as Belem).

Chiado is a very central neighborhood, upscale, happening, close to good restaurants and lively. We rented an apartment here and made this neighborhood our base. Every couple of blocks there was a square. In the evenings these squares came alive with families, kids, music and food. These squares are where we spent majority of our spare time, just being a part of the city, a part of the tourist crowd people watching.

Assuming that you reach Lisbon in the morning and spend the morning portion of your day settling in. Spend the remainder of your afternoon exploring Chiado and Baixa-Chiado. Walk from Rossio train station to Baixa-Chiado metro stop stopping by way of Largo Camoes square. From there to the Elevator S Justa. We chose not to go up the elevators.. for one there was a long line and another we plan to see the city from the castle. Btw.. did you notice the two pelicans?

From the Elevator walk on to Praca de Comercio, walk along the touristy Rua do Ouro or one of the parallel streets. All the way to the arch and to the beach. Trace your way back along the tram 28 tracks. Marvel at the tiled buildings, the gorgeous pink flower trees, the music and the tinned Sardine stores.

For dining, this city has food options galore for all types of tourists. You can find a cafe every step of the way. Casual restaurants, fast food and fancy restaurants that require reservations. For our first night, we went out to a nice restaurant for dinner at Frade de Mares https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d2308921-Reviews-Frade_dos_Mares-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html.

Grilled Octopus

Prawns in garlic tomato sauce and grilled octopus were particularly good. Reservations are required here, preferably a couple of days in advance. On the way back after dinner, we found a DJ playing some awesome dance music including bollywood music with a bunch of young adults dancing and other kids skateboarding. In that square were a bunch of beer and food stalls.

Torre de Belém

The next 1/2 day we spent visiting Belem. Start early.. like try to reach the monastery when it opens by 9-9:30 am. We took the Uber from Chiado to Belem. You can also take the metro. Buy a 24 hour Lisboa card mostly to just cut through the long lines. First visit the Monastry (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos) , then the adjoining church and then the Tower of Belem (Torre de Belem) in that order. Go up the tower for a nice view of the river meeting the sea. If line is too long.. skip the tower. After the three monuments, break for Lunch at Pasteis de Belem https://pasteisdebelem.pt/. They serve sandwiches and all, but the Pasteis de Nata are the most famous here. We must have eated 3-4 nice warm pasteis each and brought some home for later as well.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Pasteis De Belem

After lunch, we came back to the apartment in Chiado for a short nap and rest.

Lisbon Cathedral

For the second half of the day, we walked to the Cathedral. From the Cathedral there are a few choices- walk uphill, or take the scenic tram 28 going in the uphill direction (if you have a full day pass, you can use the tram to hop on hop off.. we did not buy the day passes, choosing to either walk or Uber in the interest of time and to avoid the crowds) or take a tuk-tuk (1hr tour for 2 ppl for 70 Euro and the driver comes disguised a guide). We did the Tuk Tuk tour, stopping at 4-5 stops along the way. After the tuk-tuk tour, we leisurely walked back to Chiado area.

This day we dined at O Portugues (https://o-portugues-chiado.negocio.site/), Chiado, Rua dos Duques de Braganca, 5G Chiado, Lisboa. The restaurant was upscale and some of the best food we had in Lisbon with live music. We asked the singer to sing some Fado music.. not his speciality but he obliged and sang a happy fado and a sad fado. Both awesome renditions. Every dish that we tried was really well prepared, the Vegan dumplings, grilled octopus, cod coquettes, and so much more. This restaurant requires reservations so plan in advance. After dinner, I am sure you will need a long walk back to the apartment hopefully along a way that takes you past a lively square, perhaps the one near the Baixa-Chiado metro.

The next 1/2 day for us was a trip to the Castle. Entry into the castle grounds requires a

ticket which is not included in the Lisboa card. You can take the tram or Uber. We went the Uber route. We spent about 2 hours just strolling in the castle. Nice views of the city from every angle. Other than great views there is not much to see. They do have a small museum in the castly. From the castly, we walked back.. an easy downhill walk, strolling through the Alfama neighborhood. We stopped to grab lunch in Grasa. Grasa neighborhood overlooked Alfama, a great view but food here was nothing special. For dinner, we dined at a restaurant in Alfama.

Graca

There were 2-3 restaurants in Alfama, in a square opposite the Fado museum. A Couple of ladies selling Ginjinha in a chocolate cup.. a local cherry wine. Worth a tasting. Dined at one of the places near the square as we listened to live Fado music. The singers generally come around 8 pm and the restaurants open for dinner around 7:30 ish.

If you have time, walk from where ever you are (Praca de Comercio/Chaido) to Timeoff market. Breakfast/lunch at Timeoff market. On Tuesdays - Sundays, there is a fresh fruit and vegetable market right in that building.

Rest of the time we spent exploring the historical neighborhoods. It is easier to explore when you break up the day into 1/2 days.. in between the transitions, we either came back to the apartment to rest and freshen up or at a square just absorbing the vibe.

Pink Street

Cod fish croquettes

2 days in Varanasi: Journey Through Time and Eternity

2023-01-26T17:19:00.012-05:00

Kashi, also known as Banaras or Varanasi, has been one of the ultimate pilgrimage spots for Hindus for ages. Hindus believe that those graced to die on the land of Varanasi attain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and rebirth.

Mark Twain once said, “India is the cradle of the human race, the birthplace of human speech, the mother of history, the grandmother of legend, and the great-grandmother of tradition.” He described Kashi as looking “older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."

While many mythological stories abound, one states that the mighty Ganges, after passing through Shiva’s tresses, expands into the city of Varanasi. Anyone who bathes in the waters of the Ganges in Kashi washes away their mortal sins.

In January 2023, while visiting India, I found myself drawn to Varanasi. Accompanied by my parents, uncle, and aunts, we took an overnight train from Delhi to Varanasi. Arriving in the early hours of the morning, the city was covered in deep fog that felt like an omnious shroud. It felt as though you’ve crossed the threshold into another world—a world where time pauses, and the air thrums with an ancient energy.

Up until my visit, I had always thought that Varanasi was a place to perform the last rites of loved ones. But as I spent time there, I found that it is a city of the living and the dead, perhaps a city of contradictions.

Life Along the Ghats: A Non-Stop Show

Walking along the ghats felt like being in the middle of a street performance. Pilgrims bathed in the Ganges with devotion. The distinct smell of tanneries near the ghats filled the air. Vendors hawked flowers, beads, fruits, candles, and chai with equal persistence. Sadhus, wrapped in bright orange robes, meditated undisturbed by the occasional cow, dog, or monkey stealing a snack. The last rites and cremations being performed right by the water’s edge in the traditional ways.

The 84 Ghats

The ghats of Varanasi are more than alleys and steps leading to the river—they are the heartbeat of this ancient city. Each ghat carries a story, a purpose, and an energy of its own. It seemed as if each ghat had its own story, its own rhythm.

Dashashwamedh Ghat: The Ganga Aarti here feels like a celestial dance performed to honor the river goddess. As priests raised lamps of fire and chants filled the air, I couldn’t help but feel mesmerized and overcome with spiritualness.

Manikarnika Ghat: Watching the cremation rituals at this ghat was humbling. It reminded me of the transient nature of life. In Hindu belief, the Ganga is considered the holiest of all rivers and is revered as a goddess. Immersing the ashes of the deceased in her waters is thought to purify the soul and aid in its journey toward moksha from the cycle of rebirth.

However, when immersing ashes in the Ganges isn’t possible due to distance, logistics, or other reasons, any natural body of water can serve as a substitute. This is because all water is seen as a purifier and a connection to the divine. The underlying belief is that water, in its essence, has the power to cleanse and carry the soul to a higher state of existence, whether it’s a river, lake, or ocean.

Assi Ghat: At dawn, the Subah-e-Banaras program infuses the morning aarti with music, yoga, and the soft glow of the rising sun —a celebration of life’s renewal.

Note: We stayed at a hotel by Assisi ghat right by the water.

The Ganges: A Living Divine Presence

The Ganges is not just a river—it is life itself for those who live in Varanasi. Pilgrims flock to its waters with a faith that a single dip will cleanse their soul of sins accumulated over lifetimes. Watching the devotion with which people dip in the river (however polluted), I felt a ripple of spiritualism washing over me.

Even the simple act of sitting by the river, with the sound of water splashing the ghat stone, became a moment of meditation. The Ganges seemed to whisper age-old stories, a reminder of the generations that passed its shores.

A Boat Ride: Floating through Time

At dusk, we boarded a small wooden boat for a ride along the Ganges. The boatman, with his deep, melodic voice, sang devotional songs that echoed across the water, transforming the ride into an ethereal experience. His singing, blending with the distant chime of the temple bells and the hum of prayers from the ghats. Each song felt like a prayer to the divine, narrating tales of devotion, love, and spiritual yearning. The combination of music, the rhythmic drone of the motor boat, the golden glow of lamps from the ghats and the smoke from the cremation grounds created a moment of serenity— and spirituality that can only be felt and not expressed.

The Ganga Aarti: A show in itself

The Ganga Aarti is one of the most enchanting spiritual ceremonies, performed daily at the ghats of Ganga. A symbolic ritual that honors the Ganges River, revered as a goddess and lifeline in Hinduism. Held at several major ghats, the aarti is a mesmerizing confluence of light, sound, and intricate movements that captivates both the pilgrims and the tourists.

Performed in the early hours of dawn and as the twilight descends, priests dressed in traditional saffron robes take their places on elevated platforms. The ritual begins with the resonant chimes of temple bells, the rhythmic beat of drums, the synchronized movements and the collective chanting of Sanskrit mantras. The priests hold large, ornate brass lamps filled with burning camphor and perform intricate, synchronized movements, offering the flame to the river goddess as an act of reverence and gratitude.

The aarti is more than a visual spectacle; it is an immersive revered experience. The air rich with the fragrance of incense and flowers, mingling with the sounds of conch shells and devotional hymns. Diyas (oil lamps) are floated on the river, creating a shimmering pathway of light on the water, symbolizing prayers and wishes sent to the divine. The sight of the glowing lamps drifting downstream, mirrored by the calm waters of the Ganges, evokes a sense of tranquility and connection with the universe. Whether you are a spiritual seeker or simply a tourist, witnessing the Ganga Aarti is an unforgettable experience that leaves a profound imprint.

The Labyrinth of the Old City

Wandering through the narrow alleys of Varanasi’s old city was an adventure in itself. The lanes twisted and turned unpredictably, revealing hidden temples, bustling markets, and cows lounging nonchalantly in the middle of the path. Whether shopping for Banarsi sarees, or the Banarsi paan, or eating kachori and subzi, the traditions and legends of the old city are unescapable.

The Spirituality of Everyday Life

In Varanasi, spirituality isn’t confined to temples or rituals—it’s woven into the fabric of daily life. Sadhus sit in contemplation along the ghats. Families light diyas (tiny lamps) and release them into the river, their prayers floating on the water. The chiming of temple bells, the hum of the prayers, and the aroma of incense blended with the sights and sounds of life’s routine activities. It was as if every moment, no matter how small, was imbued with some divine purpose.

A Final Farewell

On my last evening in Varanasi, I returned to the Ghat for one final aarti. This time, I lit a small diya, placed it in the water, and watched as it floated away, joining many others. It was a simple act, yet it felt profound—a silent prayer to wash all mortal sins, a moment of gratitude, a celebration of life, a wish carried by the eternal waters of Ganges.

As I left the city, I realized that Kashi doesn’t just linger in your memory; it calls you and etches itself into your soul. It’s not a tourist destination but an experience—one that stays with you, urging you to return, to accept life and death.

South Africa: Kruger National Park - Fight or Flight (Part 2)

2020-04-14T17:19:00.001-04:00

The term Safari originated from the Arabic adjective safar, which means 'a journey', travelling, touring, or voyaging. It was adapted into Swahili word safari meaning 'to travel'. Today, Safari has become synonymous with a trip to Africa to see the wildlife. Most renowned are the grasslands of Serengeti, the Masai Mara Reserve, the woodlands of Kruger, the Hwange in Zimbabwe or any one of the wildlife parks in Africa.

People say rainy season is the best time for a safari vacation. Perhaps that’s true since the woodlands and the savannah would be lush green. But I am glad our trip was in the dry season. We saw up close and personal every single wildlife in the Big 5, the Magnificent 7, the Ugly 5 and everything in between, much of it around the water holes, some of it in the woodlands but none hidden by the lush greens of the bush.

Everyday single day, we spotted every member of the Big 5, and much action within this wildlife. A few vividly seared in memory.

The very first view as we entered the gates of the reserve, we saw a big herd of elephants cooling off by a pond. The herd must have included 20-25 elephants from large males to what might have been a few weeks old baby elephants. It appeared as if a large community of elephants was socializing and picnicking. As we drove on to our camp, we spotted many large herds of Nyala and Kudu all over the reserve. These large antelope type animals are very common to the Kruger area.

Everyday we saw pride of lions sunbathing often with young ones. Once we sighted a Cheetah resting presumably after eating its meal (we saw an animal carcass not too far away). Another time we saw a mama leopard with two cubs walking about and another time a young leopard resting in the grass. The most memorable sighting was of two leopards mating. They say opposable thumb, bipedal gait and the ability to talk is what differentiates humans from other animals. I say, it's the ability to kiss and be intimate is what sets us apart. Seeing two leopards mate in the open grasslands, there was no shame and no hiding, it was us humans that seemed embarrassed like teenage kids at the sight. I guess life in the wild is so precocious, one day you are hunting for meat and the next day you are the meat, that mating is a cause for celebration. It’s what creates the circle of life!

We saw herds of Wildbeast, Water Buffalo, Zebras, Giraffe. Several vulture sightings sitting on bare tree tops. Elephants were plentiful in herds small and large. Leaving their trail identifiable by large droppings and many a Marula tree whose bark was stripped and chewed. There was a time we saw a mama elephant with two younger elephants, truly those two younger ones were behaving like teenagers. One of the two teenage elephants bullying and pushing the other into water. The other resisting and pushing back. I thought of my own kids when one would push the other and the other would shout “mom, he’s hurting me”. I guess dealing with brats is no different in the elephant kingdom.

While wild dogs are an endangered species, we saw them a couple of times. One of the most vivid memory is of two wild dogs who had chased a Kudu to a small island in a pond. The wild dogs tried swimming to the island, but retreated after only a few steps in the water. The two dogs circled and paced back and forth waiting for the Kudu to come ashore. The Kudu stood on this tiny island shaking with fear. Even from a distance, the shaking was very perceptible. The dogs waited for their kill for a long time. Us humans sitting at a distance watched this dance between the hunter and its prey like spectators. Finally, with the sun almost set, the dogs left their prey on the island. Wonder how long the Kudu stayed on the island, and whether it survived the night. The following day, when we drove past the spot, neither the Kudu nor the dogs were to be seen. How and if the young Kudu ever made it from the island is anyone’s guess. But, I guess the fear of death is universal. In the face of danger, life can do feats that are indefeasible. Regardless of whether you “fight or flight”, the death comes to all, it's just a matter of how each of us face the death in the end that matters.

In the pond, rested the Hippos and crocodiles. Hippos visible mostly by their snout and hump. Once we caught a hippo at dawn walking into the water, as a couple of others lay basking on the muddy shore. We saw a young Giraffe spread its front legs wide as it bent to drink water. Just the act of preparing to drink water took hours. Walk then wait, walk some more then wait some more (making sure no danger lurked in or around the water source), the slow task of spreading the legs without toppling over and then bending the neck to drink water. No wonder Giraffe’s drink water once every few days. The danger to life is so great, that evolution has prepared their bodies to retain water for extended periods of time. Wonder if Darwin spent time in Africa before he wrote the theory of evolution. Survival of the fittest indeed.

Rhinoceros, a solitary animal. As huge as its body is, a Rhino travels vast areas every day. It marks its territory by its pee. When he pees, it seems as if a sprinkler has turned on.. imagine an animal walking and peeing at the same time, the pee spreading in a circle of approx 3-4 foot diameter. While our Land cruiser had stopped several yards away, apparently we were perceived within the Rhino’s personal space. A bull charged us. The tracker (spotter) shit scared reached for his knobkerry. The driver furiously backed the vehicle out of the danger zone. The bull stopped a few inches short of the spotter. Us passengers sighed in relief. Had the bull not stopped, the spotter would have been dead. He would have used the knobkerry to either make noise by banging on the hood of the cruiser or hit the Rhino on the head like a club. I doubt either would have made a difference, but probably would have given the driver a bit more time to back out of the danger zone and us into safety.

September 2, 2019, dawned the last day of our Safari trip, a day celebrated worldwide by Hindus as Ganesh Chaturthi. The moment we drove out of our camp, we ran into a large male elephant. Being old and large and slow, he lived a solitary life without the protection of a herd and stayed close to the camp. I had seen him and heard him often from our tent. This day, he was standing just a few feet from the dirt road. I saw he had one large, unbroken and yellowed tusk, the other tusk broken close to his mouth. I named him Ekdant (the one with a single tusk). As we paused close to him, he looked upon us, and bid us goodby with the following thought: “You must, for the good of the whole, live in herds but there comes a time in life when you must walk your own solitary path.”

4 Day Safari - Kruger National Park, South Africa (Part 1)

2020-04-14T17:00:00.000-04:00

Bags were packed, tickets were booked. I was ready to see the Big 5, the Ugly 5, the Magnificent 7 and any other category of wildlife normally included seen in the wild only in a safari.

The Big 5 refers to the five large mammals: Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino and the Buffalo. These animals are known as “Big 5” because they were the hardest to shoot by the big game hunters and become more ferocious when cornered and injured.

The Magnificent 7, it seems that the animals in this category change depending on where you are and who you talk to. Some people say the magnificent 7 includes Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Giraffe and the Cheetah. Others include Whale and white shark to the Mag 7 (instead of Cheetah, and Giraffe)

The Ugly 5 are the underdogs of Africa that include Hyena, Wildebeast, Vulture, Warthog, and the endangered Wild dog.

A trip last year took us to South Africa. We were able to visit Johannesburg and safari at Kruger National Park. We had debated whether to fly from S. Africa to Serengeti for the safari or visit Kruger NP. Due to the fact that we were going to be in East London, the time-off constraints, cost, and time of the year, we decided to stay with Kruger. Both Kruger and Serengeti warrant iconic status when it comes to Safari. Serengeti dominates the northwest Tanzania while Kruger an equally large park dominates the southeast S. Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe. I have not yet been to Serengeti, so this post will not compare the two safari experiences but I have heard Serengeti is renowned for its vast grasslands, and the sheer volume of wildlife that makes it a peerless reserve. Kruger and the adjoining private reserves make for near certain sightings of a huge variety of wildlife.

ThornyBush Nature Reserve
We stayed in ThornyBush Private Reserve. ThornyBush is a collection of private lodges in a reserve that shares fenceless border with Kruger National Park allowing for free roaming of wildlife among the park and various private reserves that surround the national park. The 14,000 hectare private reserve has many water holes, that encourages wildlife visits especially during the dry season. This makes for consistent sightings of iconic animals and the resulting success of private game reserves and lodges.

Lodging & Meals
Chapungu is one of the 12 lodges on ThornyBush reserve. Classified as a 4 star, these are 8 tented camps set in a small compound. The tented camps themselves are very comfortable. Each tent has its own permanent bathroom that includes a shower area and a tub right off the deck. You look out (and relax) into the wilderness as you shower or take a bath. The bedroom is very comfortable with enough space for two adults, the beds covered by mosquito net, with an AC and a fan in the room.

The Lodge had an open plan (a roof but no walls) lounge, and dining room overlooking a small swimming pool. Everyday we saw Kudu, Nayla and baboons visit the lodge, kept at bay by the staff.

The breakfast is served in the lounge on a long common table. The meals are no simple affair. The breakfast included various beverages including juice, tea, coffee, breads, pastries, eggs (made your way), toasts, and fruit.

Lunch is served in the open plan dining area overlooking the camp and the swimming pool. For lunch, there are smaller (family) tables and chairs. The food is prepared by cooks that come in from their villages and stay on site for a couple of days at a time. Usually there is salad, bread, 1-2 types of meat (chicken and fish) sometimes pork and steak. There are also 1-2 veg dishes. During check in, the staff asks for food preferences, and the lunch and dinner are prepared accordingly. For drinks there was a large assortment. However, be aware, the alcoholic drinks are not part of the “all-inclusive’ plan.

For dinner, the staff made great attempts to create an intimate and romantic ambiance. While we were at camp, there were 4 adult couples (no kids). So every day, there was either candle lit diner, or dinner by the firepit. Open plan allowed us to see any wildlife that wandered in. Around lunchtime we would get Nyala, and different birds as visitors. Geckos were all over the camp (thankfully none in our tent).

At night we would hear the sounds of hyenas, baboons, elephants and other critters. Supposedly, these animals were roaming from one reserve to another or one part of the reserve to another and the sounds were of them roaming and informing other animals about their whereabouts. In the morning we could see evidence of a herd of elephants having passed by. The camp itself was surrounded by an electric fence so there was less risk of large mammals wandering into the camp. The fence was not meant to prevent smaller animals from coming in. When asked about the early morning and the after dinner escort by an armed guard from the common lounge area to the tent, the reason was, it was for the protection of the animals. If an animal were to wander on premises, and got spooked by the human (or vice versa) and the animal were to attack the human, the staff would have to shoot the animal to protect the human. They did not want to shoot the animal, thus the guard. The guard could shoo the animal away or use the firearm to create sound to scare the animal away..

At night, you could hear the wind howl from the tent. The first night at the camp was very windy. The howling of the wind, the tent flapping with each gust and the elephant choir in the background, it felt as if the entire tent would either be blown away or stampeded by the elephants. We did not sleep a wink that first night. The other nights were calmer and felt quite luxurious, lying on a comfy bed under a canvas tent, covered by a mosquito net and drinking Gin & Tonic. Being of Indian heritage, I thought of the life under the British raj.

A Safari Day
Typically, all outfitters include two safari outings per day. One at dawn and another at dusk. The day starts at the crack of dawn at 5 am. You are woken by an armed guard. At 5:30 am, you are escorted to the Land Cruiser for the dawn safari. Sitting comfortably in the Land Cruiser with a warm throw, feeling the coolness of the morning and watching the sun slowly rise, you would imagine that the day has just begun. But watching the animals hunt, eating or resting as we drove, it felt as if the day was already half past.

Each Land Cruiser had a driver and a tracker. The safari experience really depends on these two guides. Their tales, their tracking of the animals, their explanations of animal behavior and the animal sightings, is what the safari experience is all about.

During the dawn trip, our guides would stop half way and would serve tea/coffee as we looking upon some animal. At the dusk trip, they would serve gin & tonic (or another alcoholic beverage of your choice) and some snack. At one of these dusk stops, we saw a big herd of Giraffe peeking out over the trees just a few hundred yards away. Imagine a sunset, with you snacking on Biltong and savoring Gin & Tonic while standing next to you is a Giraffe munching on Acacia leaves. That is a scene not from any movie, but from my S. African safari trip.

Iceland in Three days - A Summer Reunion in Iceland

2017-08-03T17:05:00.002-04:00

A bunch of my college friends and I decided to go to Iceland for a 3 day reunion. We lovingly called this reunion trip, "Gerua" after a popular Bollywood song that was filmed in Iceland. We could not have picked a better destination nor a better time. Visiting Iceland in the summer month of June, a magical time when it never gets dark, with a bunch of college friends getting together after a span of 30 years.. need I say more?

We chose to stay outside of Reykjavik, and booked accommodations in the town of Hella using a site called www.bungalo.com. Hella turned out to be a great location to consider for accommodations. It was convenient for almost all attractions along the Southern Iceland route. Our house was a cozy and beautiful 2 bedroom house with vast open space as the backyard. We could see mountains in the distance and perhaps the glacier too on a clear day. However, this house was a couple of kilometers inland from Route 1 within the Hella Township. So, for all the future travelers who are looking into Hella for accommodations, make sure your lodgings are right off Route 1 (or as close as possible) as opposed to something where the house can be a few Km inland and the only access to and from Route 1 is over a gravelly road.

We chose to rent a car instead of using tours or taxis for getting out and about. The rental car gave us all the flexibility and convenience we needed. Driving in Iceland was very easy and convenient. We were not planning on any off-roading. so a 4 door sedan was more than sufficient for our needs. We did buy the extra insurance for gravel damage and pay for additional drivers.

In this itinerary, there were a few attractions that were off the beaten path and a few attractions that were the typical tourist destinations. Regardless, even during the peak travel month of June, we never felt crowded at any attraction.

Day 1 – Arrive Iceland

We landed very early in the morning which gave us a whole day to explore. After picking up the car from the airport we drove around in Reykjanes peninsula towards Lake Kleifarvatn, Krýsuvík, Grindavik & Reykjanesbaer.

The Viking museum at Reykjanesbaer is a great place for a buffet breakfast. If you buy the breakfast, the ticket includes entry fee for the museum as well. Our next stop was the fishing town of Grindavik and the surrounding area. We drove and walked around the gorgeous shoreline. This coast is rugged and you can see the many ships that must have run aground. Along the way we found the cutest orange lighthouse (Hopsnes Lighthouse). This is definitely off the beaten path and not sure I can ever find my way back to the area again. But it is a gorgeous landscape with many shipwrecks strewn about, roaming wild horses, yellow flowered meadows and grazing mountain sheep.

Drive to Krýsuvík felt like driving on an alien landscape.. perhaps that's what driving on Mars would feel like, through miles of lava fields. After a short drive, you arrive at Lake Kleifarvatn, the largest lake on Reykjanes.

Southwest of Kleifarvatn is a geothermal area called Seltún. This is where you can see the billowing steam holes and bubbling mud pots at close range. The mud pots cover the whole gamut of colors in the middle of primarily grey landscape. You have to climb to the top of the hill to an amazing vista of the lakes.

From here we drove to Thingvillir National park. Grabbed a quick lunch/snack at the park cafeteria. Walked a bit to see the tectonic divide (“The Wall” from the Game Of Thrones) and then drove on to Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths. We spent rest of our time at the baths, perhaps 3-4 hours. From sauna to steam bath to swimming pools to jumping into the icy cold lake. We hung around at the hot spring bath until its closing time and grabbed dinner of fresh baked bread at the bath itself. The drive to Hella took a couple of hours but since there was sufficient daylight outside, and all of us were energized by our get together, tiredness was miles away. We had enough energy and enthusiasm left to spend the next couple of hours after we got home playing drinking games and an evening full of laughter. Don’t remember if we ever really went to sleep this first night. Before we knew it, we were all watching the sunrise together and performing the sun salutations on grass freshly covered by dew.

Day 2

After an easy breakfast of parathas and theplas with eggs and tea and juice, we got ready for our day two. We had planned a hike to Hveragerdi River. We wore our swim wear and layered warm clothing on top. Packed with a bottle of wine, water, snacks, and the camera, we hiked from the Hveragerdi River Hike parking lot to the hot spring river. We took our time hiking, pausing to take many a photographs, sing Gerua along with many old Bollywood songs, struck friendships with fellow hikers and petted the many dogs hiking the trail. We were in no rush to get anywhere and the time seemed to be going in slo-mo. The day was gorgeous, the treeless green mountains beautiful, the company of college friends – absolutely priceless!

We spent a couple of hours lounging in the hot river water and catching up on the times gone by. Drinking wine and eating mathri never felt so good together. One tip, do not take glass bottles (of any beverage) as the river bed is slippery and the chances of the bottle breaking pretty high. There are no changing rooms nor bathrooms. Clothes need to be changed out in the open (or hidden behind a towel). You carry your trash with you. This is a must do hike for all travelers to Iceland.

After the leisurely river hike, we stopped at Kjot & Kunst restaurant in the town of Hveragerdi for lunch. The restaurant is known for using geothermal heat for cooking. We picked up some fresh bread for breakfast the next day.

After lunch we drove to Selfoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls. Both are tourist (and Gerua) destinations but well worth the visit. In summer you can go behind the falls.

We had planned to stop at Dyrholaey, but we skipped this stop and chose to spend our time at the black sand beach. While 30 mins is sufficient for visiting the black sand beach, but if your travelling companions are friends you have not seen in 30 some years, every stop takes hours and nothing takes few minutes.

By the time we got to the black sands beach at Vik, it was late but not dark and the tide was low. We had the whole expanse of the beach to ourselves and were sharing the beach with a modeling crew. The low tide exposed the many caves/inlets along the shoreline. Strolling on the beach at midnight that almost felt like dusk was simply magical. The black pebbles smooth and shiny and glinting in the remaining sunlight and your crazy friends being ..well crazy.. was simply memorable. Day 2 ended up as yet another late late night. By the time we got home, ate dinner, spent time drinking and singing and laughing, it was sunrise again. After being awake for non stop 48 hours, I think we did manage to catch 2-3 hours of sleep before starting our day 3.

Day 3

After a quick breakfast of fresh bread, eggs and tea, we headed out to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon & the Diamond beach. This was about a 3:30 hour hour drive from Hella through a very dramatic landscape. There are many places to stop along the way such as Skaftafell (Skaftafellsjökull glacier), and Kirkjubæjarklaustur (Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon). Despite our well laid out plans to stop at both these places, we pretty much drove straight through to Jökulsárlón. We did stop briefly to get petrol, some fruit and some food. We also stopped at a small but beautiful waterfall that we saw by the roadside. After spending an hour or two at Jökulsárlón, we headed back. We stopped at Fosshotel for a nice dinner and a 50th birthday celebration. This route has very few hotels. Fosshotel looked to be a fairly large hotel very conveniently located to visit the attractions along this route. The items on the menu were limited but the food preparations were all very fresh and very good. On the way back, we stopped to admire the countryside that was blanketed with the most beautiful blue purple flowers with wild horses running through them. The horses were gorgeous and studly, and as we stood admiring them canter we find out that they were being led to a slaughterhouse. Oh well.. horse meat along with lamb is a staple food in Iceland.

Day 4 – Late afternoon Departure

The last day in Iceland was somewhat sober and sentimental. Our first reunion was coming to an end, the emotions were running high. There was loads of laughter and many tears as we got ready to depart. The lifetime lasting memory of this day will be dressing together in colorful sarees to the song of Gerua playing in the background for a photo shoot. No words can ever describe the photo shoot, except to say that while we may forget the places we saw, we will never forget Gerua and the dressing up and the warm memories it will bring. After checking out of the house, we stopped for a goodbye lunch at the famous Blue Lagoon on the way back to the airport. Au revoir my dear friends. Au revoir!

Winter in Iceland - The Elusive Northern Lights

2017-01-06T14:30:00.000-05:00

Sun Voyager, an ode to the sun

Travel Tips & 3 day Itinerary

If the sole purpose of your trip to Iceland is tourism, then do not travel over the Christmas holidays (Dec 23 until Dec 26^th). Almost all restaurants, shops, transportation, tours, venues are closed on Dec 24^th and 25^th. Many places are closed on 23^rd and 26^th as well. If traveling in winter best to visit after Dec 26^th.

It is very convenient to make Reykjavik as your base and then go on day trips to various sites. However, I recommend that if you are spending more than 3 days in Iceland, you may want to split your time between Reykjavik, and some town on the south east side (such as Höfn, Skaftafell), especially if you are doing the Glacier Hike (which I highly recommend) or in Northern Iceland.

Reserve BlueLagoon months in advance. We reserved Blue Lagoon approximately a month in advance via Viator and then found out later that the lagoon was overbooked and our reservation was cancelled. Blue Lagoon allows only limited people for each time slot. Book yours way in advance (a month is not soon enough) and book your slot directly via Blue Lagoon's website above.

The best time to visit Blue Lagoon is probably on your way back to the airport (to fly back home) when visitors are done with all their tours. Generally, on the fly back day, most people do not plan any excursions, flights are also later in the afternoon and most hotels require checkout by 10 am. Therefore, it makes a good opportunity to check out early, drive to Blue Lagoon (very close to the airport), spend a few hours at the lagoon, grab lunch/snack and then take off for the airport.

If you are not participating in any adventure activities (such as ice caving, glacier hikes, snorkeling, lava tube hikes, etc. ) then, the best way to see the country is to drive on your own. Car rentals, both manual and automatic transmissions are easily available and driving in Iceland is easy. With a car rental, we were able to see a lot while adjusting the trip to our taste, and stop as many times as we wanted for pictures, coffee and food. Book car rentals in advance so a vehicle with your specifications can be readily available.

There are a ton of tour companies providing tours. Greyline, Reykjavik Excursions and Viator are the large scale tour companies. We had booked our tours via GreyLine. However, given that all our tours got cancelled due to weather, I recommend that if you are traveling to Iceland in winter, probably better to use a smaller tour company such as Extreme Iceland, Outdoor Adventures; Arctic Adventures and others. [Disclosure: We had booked via GreyLine, but as I mentioned earlier, our tours were cancelled due to weather. However, when we drove to those sites on our own, we saw several of these smaller outfitters on the location but none of the large tour companies. Other than this observation, I have no direct experience using smaller tour companies in Iceland.]

The heating in rooms, the showers in Iceland are all serviced by the hot water from various hot springs. Therefore, the bath water smells of Sulfur (for those who don't know what it smells like, it is the smell of rotten eggs/sewage). Keep in mind Sulfur is good for the skin and all natural hot spring water, so enjoy while that lasts.

While we spent 5 days in Iceland, we lost two days of sightseeing due to the closures related to the Christmas holidays and bad weather. On Dec 23^rd and 24^th, guided tours were not offered and all stores, restaurants, car rentals places, grocery stores are closed. We were able to hire a taxi and go into Reykjavik city center and just walk around the city which was charming, and nicely decorated. A few guests at our hotel had been able to pre-booked, whale watching and Snowmobiling with smaller operators for the Dec 24^th and Dec 25^th . The weather was rainy, some snow and hail and generally cloudy. For us, the northern lights remained elusive. I guess its destiny's way of saying, I need to visit the land of Ice and Fire one more time.

Day 1: Reykjavik and Laugarvatn-Fontana geothermal bath

Reykjavik is an easily walkable city from one end to another, narrow quaint streets sprinkled with cafes, art shops, clothing, souvenir stores, and restaurants. There are no skyscrapers, large concrete structures, metro stops. You either start from the Harpa museum and walk to Hallgrimskirkja or vice versa via Laugavegur. Between these two main points of interest lies the city center catering to tourism.

Hallgrimskirkja at 6pm in Winter

Since the city center is so small and safe, Reykjavik is good to walk around late into the evening when the tours are done, or on days when you have shorter tours and time to spare. This city is less about sight-seeing but more about people watching and just experiencing being in Reykjavik.

Approximately 1 hour drive from the city are Laugarvatn-Fontana geothermal bath. Fontana is a much smaller and less known facility located right next to a lake. There are three different pools with varying degrees of temperatures. There are 3-4 Sauna rooms built directly over the natural hot springs. Fontana is much less expensive, more intimate, less crowded than Blue Lagoon but it also offers a very different experience. If you go to Fontana you must try the Lava Bread (Rye bread) with loads of butter.

You can do the Reykjavik and Laugarvatn-Fontana in either order, but if I had to recommend I would do the Fontana baths first and then spend rest of the time in the Reykjavik city. Keep in mind, most stores in the city close by 6pm (at least in winter they do).

A few must-dos:

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur stand

Eat Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (hot dogs) in Reykjavik - Icelandic hot dogs are different from American hot dogs because they’re made mostly from Icelandic lamb, along with a bit of pork and beef. The flavor of lamb is quite prominent. I must say you have to try them once, although if you are an American, the flavor of lamb will throw you off (your brain is still expecting American hot dogs). The hot dog stand is open until 2:00am everyday.

Jam Burger at Prikid – a burger with jam and different kinds of cheeses. Definitely one of a kind. People either love it or hate it. Prikid is marketed as the oldest café in the heart of Reykjavik's downtown. A cool hangout bar and restaurant.

Lamb soup – We had lamb soup where ever we went, at the Geysir café, at Reynisfjara black sand beach cafe, and many other places. The best lamb soup was at Cafe Babalu in Reykjavik downtown (we also had tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwich and it was delicious).

Buy Lopapeysa – the iconic iceland sweater. Beware, all things in Iceland are expensive and that certainly goes for Lopapeysa which will cost upwards of $200. They are incredibly warm sweaters made with sheep wool and traditional patterns handed down generation to generation. Icelandic pattern is completely different from the Nordic pattern. Most people buy these sweaters from “Icewear” branded stores that can be found all over the city center however close to Café Babalu is a store owned by the Handknitting Association of Iceland that sells authentic local handmade Lopapeysa. We got our Lopapeysa from here.

Day 2: Golden Circle tour

This is one of the most popular day trips for visitors. An easy sightseeing tour of 3 main areas of interest. The tour sites include: Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir, and Pingvellir National Park. Some tours start at the Pingvellir national park while others start at the Gullfoss waterfalls. Regardless, all tours to the Golden Circle cover the three areas of attraction mentioned above.

Pingvellir National Park - Tectonic plate gap also known as
"The Wall" in the Game of Thrones

Pingvellir National Park is where the Flosagja Fissure is located. This is where the tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia meet and are slowly pulling apart creating deep fissures in the ground. This national park is one of the sites where many scenes from the Game of Thrones were filmed. The national park also has the famed snorkeling and scuba diving site known as Silfra. The water is freezing icy glacial water no matter the season. One of our friends who snorkeled, wore a wet suit and was still freezing despite the wet suit. The park seems to have many walking/hiking trails. The tour buses stop there for only for approx. 45 mins – 1 hour. So, if you want to explore the area more, definitely worth driving on your own. There is no café at the national park.

The Geysir is the second stop on the tour. It erupts approximately every 10 minutes or so. Having seen the Old Faithful at the Yellowstone National Park, I did not feel there was anything special about the Geysir in Iceland. If you have never seen a geyser before, its a worthy stop. If you have seen geysers before, worth skipping and adding one of the alternative attractions from the list below. The Geysir stop has a large café and a gift shop and a gas station. The lamb soup at the café was excellent.

Gullfoss Waterfalls

The third stop on the Golden Circle route (or the first stop depending on how the tour starts) is the Gullfoss waterfall. The cascading waterfalls and the surrounding scenery are spectacular. This is one of those waterfalls where you look down from above at the cascading falls as opposed to waterfalls where you are looking up to waterfalls. Going to the waterfalls requires descending a long staircase which in winter was very icy. Closer to the falls are strong winds and water spray. A good waterproof jacket and waterproof pants are advisable.

Golden Circle route is perfect for driving on your own. The drive is easy and scenic. Along the road are many “picnic” spots, where visitors can pull over to take pictures, eat and enjoy the countryside. The tour buses do not stop at these picnic areas.

Alternate attractions along the Golden Circle route:

Secret Lagoon

Laugarvatn-Fontana geothermal bath – Cheaper and smaller than Blue lagoon, this is one of the popular hotspring baths located on the Goldern Circle route right next to a lake. The best thing is their Rye bread baked in the hotsprings.

Fridhmeimar Greenhouse – locally grown, organic tomatoes. Popular as a lunch spot and Icelandic horse riding.

Kerio Crater - a volcanic crater with a lagoon on the bottom

Day 3: South Coast and Waterfalls and Glacier Hiking

The drive along the south coast was incredible and very dramatic. Although we could not hike on the top of the glacier, we did drive to all the popular tourist sites along the south coast. This day trip starts in Reykjavik and goes until Vik, an approximately 10 hour roundtrip with several stops along the way. The route includes waterfalls, glaciers, volcanoes, black sand beaches and driving along a very unique landscape. The drive was fairly easy although we encountered blowing snow and gale strength winds a couple of times that at times made for zero visibility. In general, the drive is very scenic and pleasant.

Approximately 1 hour outside of Reykjavik are the Seljalandsfoss Waterfalls. Not too far from the main road, this set of 3 side by side waterfalls are surrounded by sheer cliffs and black volcanic soil. There is a path next to the main waterfall that takes you behind the waterfalls. Dress warm and wear waterproof.

Skogafoss Waterfall

Another 30 minutes or so of driving, brings you to Skogafoss waterfalls. All waterfalls look beautiful and so does Skogafoss. If you are pressed for time, then skip Skogafoss Waterfalls, particularly if you stopped at Seljalandsfoss. If you are not pressed for time, then stop and enjoy these falls. You can walk right up to the waterfall and touch the water. There are steps leading to the top of the waterfalls. From the top, the view out to the ocean is quite spectacular. From the top also starts a popular 22 km hiking trail called Fimmvörðuháls ending into the Porsmork valley.

Sólheimajökull Glacier

A few miles further up (5 mins drive) on the left is the turnoff (road nr.221) that leads to Sólheimajökull Glacier, a spectacular outlet glacier marked by a chaotic crevassed surface peppered with black volcanic soil. The road is paved so you can drive up, close and personal till the edge of the glacier. This glacier is relatively small and several tour companies take visitors for guided glacier walks. However, if you are not glacier hiking but want to see and touch the glacier, this outlet glacier is a short drive from the Skogafoss waterfalls followed by a short and easy scenic hike.

Sólheimajökull Glacier

Reynisdrangar Black Sand Beach

The Village of Vik is approximately 30 kms further away. To visit the black sand beach which is on the way to Vik, the turnoff is on the right (of Route 1). Look for a sign to Reynisfjara black sand beach and the Reynisdrangar basalt rock formations. Stop at the parking lot off the beach. The beach is treacherous. The waves are high, rough with a strong undercurrent and the water creeps up on you very fast and suddenly. We were warned to stand as far away from the water as possible as several people have been known to swept away by the receding waves. The basalt rock formations are unique. The Hallgrimskirkja church's design in Reykjavik was inspired by these basalt rock formations. Nearby on the right you can see Dyrholaey, a natural rock bridge formation that is perhaps the most recognizable landmark in South Iceland. In summer you can drive to the rock bridge and walk to the lighthouse.

Alternate attractions along the South Coast Drive:

Eyjafjallajokull Vulcano

Village of Vik

Eldhraun Lava Field

2-3 hours drive past Vik is the Vatnajokull the largest ice cap in Europe and second largest glacier in area in Europe. A lot of glacier hikes, ice caving occur in this area. Most locals and tour companies recommend an overnight stay in this area if you are doing the glacier hike/ice caving.
Diamond Beach - An additional 2-3 hours drive past Vik

Suggested Day 4: West Iceland – Snaefellsnes Peninsula

Disclaimer: We were not able to visit this route, so the itinerary above is what we had planned but did not get to experience first hand.

Snaefellsnes Peninsula sits just to the northwest of Reykjavik. Drive from Reykjavik to Borgarnes for approx 1 hour, get on Route 54 towards Snaefellsnes for approx. 30 min drive. Stop at Snorrastadir farm. Hike for 30 minutes to Eldborg crater. The farm is a great place for lunch and horseback riding. Supposedly this route southwest is quite scenic with many small towns scattered all over. The best way to visit this area is via a car. This area was made famous by Ben Stiller's movie The “Secret Life of Walter Mitty” and the “Journey to the Center of the Earth”. The main points of attraction along this side are are

Eldborg crater
Snæfellsjökull volcano glacier

Gerðuberg basalt column

Bird cliffs at Arnarstapi

Kirkjufell church-shaped mountain and Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall

Public Transport

The public transport in Reykjavik is not very good. To be honest, the city center is all walkable so you don’t need any public transport. If you are staying outside of Reykjavik, then strongly recommend that you get a rental car. Taxis are readily available and you can call a cab using a smart phone but cabs can get expensive. A cab generally arrives within minutes. There is no Uber in Iceland.

Accommodations

Depending on the number of days, highly recommend staying within the city center of Reykjavik. The city is lively and charming. Very safe for kids and adults alike. It is small enough to just walk about, grab a bite to eat after a day full of touring and chill-lax. We stayed at a hotel in town called Hafnarfjordur right outside of Rekjavik.

The hotel T-10 was real nice, breakfast included every morning, each room was clean and spacious and had a separate bathroom, but it was a 10 min taxi ride to the city center. If you are doing guided tours every day, the tour operators pick and drop you off from your hotel. You don’t need to drive to the city center to meet with the tour. If you are touring on your own, then you need a car anyway and can afford to stay outside the city center. The only thing is you miss the city life when staying outside the city. In summer its less of an issue since Hafnarfjordur has a nice harbor but in winter, a city is more welcoming when you can pop inside a bar/restaurant/store to warm up for a few minutes.

If you are visiting for longer than 3 days, worth spending a night outside of Reykjavik (recommend somewhere on the South East of the island where the largest glacier is).

There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing – A winter trip to Iceland

2017-01-06T11:30:00.003-05:00

December 2016, we visited Iceland. Prior to the trip, the biggest consideration was, what will the weather be like in Winter in Iceland? Considering we were flying WOW airlines (a discounted airline) that charges for each carryon bag and each checked bag, the question was What clothing should we take? While all the web sites say the weather in Iceland is relatively mild but unpredictable, the issue was what the right set of clothing to pack for the winter so we can be outdoors and warm and comfortable. If you’re too cold all the time, you won’t enjoy anything- and you most definitely won’t want to hike on a glacier, go into a lava tube or walk up to a slippery ledge behind a waterfall, and these are the things you kind of need to do to fully appreciate being in Iceland.

A common misconception is that Iceland is unbearably cold in winter. Due to the North Atlantic Drift of the Gulf Stream, winter in Iceland is relatively mild, compared to the extreme temperatures in parts of Finland and Sweden. As luck would have it, the temperatures during our trip were around or below freezing, there was little snowfall but a lot of blowing snow and rain, and we encountered gale strength winds. The combination of blowing snow, rain & hail, and very strong winds often made for near zero visibility, and freezing temperatures.

The good news was that even though we felt bullied around by the winds, we never felt cold given that we were dressed in multiple layers and good winter clothing.

Suggestions to Pack for Winter (5 day trip)

1 waterproof winter jacket or parka (for other seasons waterproof coat/jacket will be required)
2 fleece
1 dressy sweater
1 waterproof pants /ski pants – I carried my insulated ski pants and wore them over thermal bottoms and was very comfortable. Others in our group carried waterproof rain pants and layered them over thermal bottoms and jeans. They seemed to have been equally comfortable.
1-2 pair pants/jeans (city wear)
3 baselayer thermal bottoms
3 baselayer tops
3 long sleeve tops
3 nice tops
3 pairs of socks
Underwear
1 swimwear
1 PJ
2 knit caps/fleece caps
1 scarf
2 pairs gloves (waterproof and thick woolen)
Makeup, sunscreen, lip balm, other toiletries
Sunglasses
1 winter hiking boots
Tripod for northern lights and waterfalls
Spikes to attach to winter boots (None in our group carried these, but they would have been helpful in the winter)

Part 2: Greek Island Hopping, an Aegean Sea Cruise

2016-06-05T20:14:00.000-04:00

Mykonos

For the second part of our trip, we booked a 7 day Aegean sea cruise on the Celestyal Crystal cruise line. Unlike the massive, mega luxurious ships sailing through the Caribbean sea, this ship was a small and more agile for navigating through the shallow waters of Aegean sea and the small ports of the various Greek islands. The ship had approximately 450 staterooms to support 1200 people. The ship was comfortable, had buffet style food service as well as ala-carte restaurants, daily evening entertainment and all modern conveniences. The ship is more like a 3-4 star hotel. The cruise itinerary was port intensive. During the 7 day trip we visited the 10 ports listed in the order below. One of the fun things we did on each island was to look for the traditional Loukoumades.

Mykonos, Greece - A small island with narrow, whitewashed streets, clustered cubicle houses with their tiny balconies and colored doors and windows. Tiny gardens, windows sills and streets lined by bougainvillea. Numerous little churches and chapels dot every corner. Looking up on the hill are the island's distinguishing and famous landmarks, the Mykonos windmills. Mykonos is beautiful, lively, lots of restaurants right by the waterfront. The streets are not only narrow but also very confusing. It

seems the pattern of the streets was intentionally designed without a pattern to confuse the pirates in the years past. As you walk around the labyrinth of these little streets, the aura of Mykonos is unmistakable.

Kusadasi, Turkey - Kusadasi is a Turkish port in the aegean sea. The day long stop allowed us to visit the ancient city of Ephesus, a popular destination for tourists visiting this harbor town and on mediterranean cruise. By car it takes approximately 30-40 mins from Kusadasi. The trip takes you through a fertile valley of fields and orchards.

Marble road - Ephesus

Celsus Library - Ephesus

Ephesus' greatest claim to fame was its temple to the goddess Artemis. It is one of the "seven wonders" of the ancient world, and is claimed to be four times larger than the Parthenon in Athens.

There is much of the settlement left to show the deep history and the splendor this settlement must have been. Two things struck me most about this settlement. One, was the marble road, the main road through the middle of Ephesus and being awed at how prosperous this ancient city must have been. The columns, the art, the science (of water flow and medicine) as evident in various artifacts excavated, all indicate the importance and prosperity of this city. Two, the public bath and toilets. The ancient city is one of the earliest constructions of public bath houses and public toilets using water to clean the sewer system.

Samos, Greece - I don't remember much about this island. But all greek islands are beautiful. Samos is one of the low key, off the beaten path island.

Milos, Greece - The island of dramatic rock formations. Milos has the most extraordinary rock formations we saw at any of the islands due to its volcanic past. if you have ever seen pictures of boat houses right on the sea with brightly painted doors and the living quarters on the upper floors, that is the picture of the village of Kilma on the Milos island. After docking at the port, we rented a private minivan. The van took us to Kilma (village with the colorful boat houses), to the pumice rock formations at Sarakiniko and the blue sulfuric water at Papafragas.

Boat houses

Rock formations

Syros, Greece - This is one of the off-the beaten path islands. There was nothing remarkable about the island, except that it was beautiful and quaint.

Cesme, Turkey - Cosme is a resort town of Turkey along the Aegean sea. It is a popular sun and surf town. We chose to sped our day in this town by the beach, our first this whole trip. The sun was high, the water was warm and kids had a great time. We caught a cab and drove about 10 mins to a beach further out from the city, a beach recommended by the cab driver. The area seems to have many popular beaches.

Kos, Greece - is one of the larger islands close to Turkey. The ship ports in Kos Town. The first thing we noticed as we got off the cruise ship were the masses of refugees. The port, the parks, and the streets close to the port were full of refugees sitting, sleeping, and eating. Volunteers from ARC distributing tents for shelter, water etc. Families children sleeping on little mats on the street or any patch of green they could find. The locals were complaining about theft and violence with the onset of refugees. We probably were the first batch of tourists to greek islands who saw the refugees coming in droves from the shores of Turkey into Greece and its real impact on the local greeks. The combination of refugee crisis and the austerity measures being enforced in Greece leading to the high cost of daily necessities (food and water).

At the entrance to the port is an ancient castle (castle of Knights of the order of Saint John). Right outside the castle is the site of the Hippocrates Tree. It is said that the father of modern medicine (Hippocrates) lectured his students under the shade of this tree. The tree is not marked, but it does have low stone fence around it. We hopped on a little tourist train that for 8 Euro per person gave a small tour of the Kos town. From the water front area (port), it goes until Asclepion and back. Asclepion is the site of an ancient hospital/sanatorium called Asklepeio, a ruin surrounded by cypress trees. It is believed that Hippocrates was a student here.

Ios, Greece - is known as the International party lsland that supersedes all spring break locations in the U.S. Since we were traveling with the cruise ship, we never saw the partying side of the island. But what we did see was a typical port village, with cafes and restaurants lining the main square. We saw a lot of college age kids seemingly backpacking through the island hanging out at Starbucks eating croissants. We walked a little bit along the harbor and saw the typical white geometric houses with blue domes lining the hillside. The locals and the travel books will tell you that as the sun goes down, these little white houses open their doors and become clubs, discos and bars. All the young people lounge by the beaches in day time and disco until the early morning hours at night time.

Santorini, Greece - When people think of Greek Islands, they are thinking of Santorini. It was by far the most beautiful and spectacular though cliched island. The beauty of Santorini was formed by volcanic action that submerged all ancient parts of the island, and created a large volcano crater filled with sea water. A caldera deep enough for cruise ships to anchor and sail. This is the island that all paintings and picture postcards showcase, the azure blue waters, white geometrical houses, and the churches with blue domes. It is a dessert island and other than rain there is only a single source of fresh water. From the port, you take a bus that takes you to Oia. Oia is a small village with a huge traffic of tourists, narrow cobbled paths between touristy shops of painting, trinkets, bards and restaurants. The dramatic views from Oia is overshadowed only by the stunning sunset views.

Santorini vs Mykonos

Santorini has stunning scenery, natural beauty, sunsets, fine dining, wineries, boutique hotels, boat tours of nearby islands, and volcanoes. Beaches are kinda far (have to go way down to get to a beach)

Mykonos has easy access to beaches, nightclubs, dancing, and partying, fun times wandering the labyrinth of narrow streets.

Overall

if you see any of the greek island postcards, paintings and any other form of art, they all show whitewashed houses, narrow lanes, prominent blue colored dome or shutters, churches and chapels and island windmills. Each of the islands we visited had all of the above but each island also had a few distinguishing feature; the caldera on Santorini, the boat houses on Milos, the windmills of Mykonos and so forth. While Island hopping gave us a great flavor of the various greek islands, we did miss out on the night life, on visiting the beaches, on absorbing the aura and ambiance of any one island. If there is another opportunity to go to Greek islands, I will prefer to spend few days at just one island.

Islands such as Milos, Syros, Samos are very pretty and off the beaten path. If I had to pick an island that was low key, and beautiful I will probably pick Syros. If I wanted to stay at one of the highly visited and dramatic island, it would be Santorini.

Loukoumades (Greek donuts)

Part 1: 3 days in Athens

2016-06-05T20:10:00.001-04:00

Athens is named after the goddess Athena, the Greek mythological goddess of wisdom, inspiration and civilization. If you enjoy ancient history, Athens is a great place to visit. Littered with an archaeological site or at every corner, these ancient ruins are part of Athenian vibe.

Day 1: We landed early afternoon in Athens. The airport was approximately 30 minutes from the Plaka area where we had booked our hotel. After checking in and leaving our bags at the Hotel Acropolis Select, we headed out to visit the Plaka area to grab lunch. Plaka was a beautiful neighborhood situated directly under the shadow of the Acropolis. It is supposedly the oldest section of Athens. Almost all the streets in this area are open only to pedestrian traffic. Plaka metro is also the closest metro stop to the Acropolis. This neighborhood is interested by two streets, one of them being Adrianou street, a street lined on both sides by boutique hotels, restaurants and outdoor cafe, jewelry stores, tourist shops, and art galleries. We ate lunch at one of the many cafes in the area catering to tourists, our selection was based purely on a cafe that had operating water misting fans. Our lunch included gyros, souvlaki, greek salad and moussaka and other greek dishes. Any of these cafe’s especially those located under the shade of trees with fans seemed to attract a lot of people regardless of what they were ordering whether it was a glass of lemonade or iced caffe or simply people watching. After lunch, we strolled leisurely along the Adrianou street. All the shops were crammed with typical touristy stuff, pretty much the same things for pretty much the same prices; these included masks, Ouzo, Olive oils, spice mixes, soaps, paintings, jewelry, t-shirts, hand crafted bags and street vendors of all kinds. After scrolling and people watching for a couple of hours, we walked back to our hotel to rest and freshen up before dinner. While our hotel was on the edge of the Plaka area, the distance between shopping district and our hotel was just a few blocks. The location of our hotel was very convenient.

Erechtheion

Highly recommend staying in Plaka area. It is within walking distance of every major archaeological site including the Acropolis, Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Ancient and Roman Agoras. The area seems to have a wide variety of restaurants as well as is Athen’s main shopping district. We were a few blocks from Syntagma Square and Monastiraki Square and the metro. Plaka also seemed to be a safe area.

We had tried booking our hotel stay at Hotel Plaka or Hotel Adrian (both 3 star properties based on some of the reviews) but neither of these two hotels were available for our group for the nights we needed. Therefore, at the recommendation of our travel agent, we ended up staying at Hotel Acropolis Select which too was a 3 start hotel. Hotel Acropolis Select did not have any direct views of the Acropolis but it was within walking distance to all the historical sites and to Plaka, it was very conveniently located. The rooms were comfortable, most had a balcony overlooking the street below but the bathrooms needed renovations. For dinner, we found a small restaurant a block down. We sat in the restaurant’s patio and ordered a large feast that included fish, chicken, lamb, greek salad and humous. Since we were the only occupants of the restaurant we had full attention from the proprietor and his wife who was the cook. The food was very well prepared. While rest of Greece might have been feeling the effects of austerity measures, it seems Plaka area, the hotels and restaurants were impervious to those effects.

Parthenon

Day 2: We got ready early in the morning for our visit to Acropolis. Our hotel included breakfast buffet which worked out very convenient as the cafe didn't open that early in the morning. We had been warned to visit Acropolis either early in the morning or late in the evening. We chose early morning and were one of the first few people in line when the ticket office opened at 8 am. The ticket included entrance to Acropolis, the Museum and the Ancient Agora. We chose not to take a guided tour but had earlier downloaded Steve Rick’s audio tour to Acropolis.

Getting to the Acropolis was an easy uphill walk but a little longer than I had anticipated. Comfortable shoes are a must. Even though we entered the grounds as soon as the Acropolis opened, we had to stop a couple of times to catch breath in the rising heat. By the time we reached Parthenon, it seemed as if the sun in full force was beating down on us. The previously chilled water bottles had become warm and there was no shade to be found at the top. Keeping this in mind, it might be worth considering travel to Greece in the winter or spring months.

The history of Parthenon is amazing. The various transformations it has gone through. The archaeological excavations and preservation work still under going. In case you have heard of Elgin marbles, this is where they came from. I wont describe the Acropolis or Parthenon here, as that information is readily available on the internet in far greater details that I remember. If you prefer audio, Rick Steve adds color beautifully to his description of these ancient sites.

Parthenon at night

After Parthenon, we visited the other sites in Acropolis such as the theater of Herod Atticus and the rock of Areopagos and walked down the hill to the Hotel Acropolis Select. The timing was perfect. Just as the sun was getting overhead, we were walking into the museum. The museum is quite an amazing design. As you walk into the museum and look down the glass ramp, you can see what remains of the ancient settlement, how the ancient city was planned and laid out, how well the dwellings were planned, the beginnings of urban planning. Inside are displayed the many excavated artifacts or the replicas of various friezes. The museum’s design mimics that of the Parthenon in that the artifacts are displayed as they would have looked on Parthenon in their original positions. Unlike most museums (including the British Museum that houses the original Elgin marbles), the glass walls of the Acropolis Museum allows all artifacts to be seen in natural light. If you look out the glass walls, on one one side you can see the ancient Acropolis and the Parthenon and on the other side the current city of Athens, a large stretch of orange ceramic tiled roofs and the people of Athens going about their daily lives.

After we were done with the museum, we grabbed lunch in one of the cafe outside and walked to hotel to rest for the afternoon. In the evening, we headed to Monastiraki area. The area similar to Plaka is a lovely tourist shopping area but a little cheaper. Our walk took us through the ancient agora

Day 3: Day Trip to Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

Temple of Poseidon

We rented a bus on our own to go to Sounion to visit the Temple of Poseidon. From Athens it takes approximately 1 and a half hours by road. Some of the guide books recommend a trip in the morning to avoid the crowds but Sounion has an incredible sunset view, that it is worth the afternoon trip and dealing with the crowds. We went in the afternoon, but did not feel that the place was crowded at all.

The temple sits above the beach on a mountain that juts out into the sea and was dedicated to Poseidon, the god of the sea.

Just below the temple there is a little path that goes downhill towards the water, along that path there is an archaeological excavation of a historical settlement. The houses, the street, the shops that formed part of this little settlement are all marked by excavated stones.

Jackson Hole Ski Resort

2016-05-28T13:22:00.001-04:00

After dismal skiing the last couple of years, and not knowing whether the 2015-2016 winter was going to be a “La Nina” or an “El Nino”, we decided to go to Jackson Hole for our ski trip this season. We figured, since Jackson Hole is known to receive an average of 400 inches of annual snow, it was probably as safe a bet as we could get. Fortunately, mother nature did not disappoint us. Jackson Hole received 407 inches of snow during the 2015-2016 winter season and another 40 some inches after the season finished. We skied during our spring break, the week of March 25^th thru March 30^th.

The last week in March usually is usually the last week of skiing permitted at Jackson Hole. One of the reasons mentioned was that Wyoming shuts down all skiing at Jackson Hole since animals (Elk, Bison and others) start their migration in the Grand Tetons shortly after. Another reason was that ski resort staff is greatly augmented by seasonal exchange students and workers from Australia, New Zealand and South America. A typical U.S. ski resort hires anywhere from 8000 - 9000 season staff that include ski instructors, ski patrol, lift operators, restaurant servers, and so forth. The visa for most of these seasonal workers is tightly controlled and expires after 4 months. Therefore, most ski resorts usually close by the end of March.

Regardless, while we were at Jackson Hole, the snow could not have been more perfect!! The crowds none. Ski runs wide open and groomed. The only visible lines were people waiting for the aerial tram, but no lines for the gondola nor for any of the other lifts. Skiing could not have been more perfect.

Jackson Hole is known for its challenging terrain and one of the highest vertical drops in North America at approximately 4,140 ft, is on every skier’s bucket list. (Snowmass has the highest vertical drop at just over 4,400 ft.)

Situated in the Teton Mountain Range, Jackson Hole Resort is approximately 12 miles from the town of Jackson in Teton Village, Wyoming. The mountain has 116 ski trails, spread over 2500 acres of inbound skiable area and over 3000 acres of backcountry terrain. The runs are rated 50% expert, 40% intermediate, and 10% beginner. The resort has 1 -100 passenger aerial tram, 1 gondola, and 11 chairlifts (in addition to the magic carpet and rope tow). The ski resort is home to one of the most well known expert ski runs in the world, Corbet's Couloir.

The mountain goes from easy to difficult as you go from right to left. The right side of the mountain being easier and the left side mostly expert terrain. As mentioned earlier, only approx 10% of the mountain is beginner, so most of the runs were either blues, double diamond blues, blacks or double diamond blacks. The intermediate terrain is primarily on Apres Vous Mountain (middle section of the mountain). The more advanced terrain that includes bowls, glades, and chutes on the Rendezvous Mountain (left section of the mountain). The greens were very few towards the lower right side of the mountain.

Personally, I am an intermediate skier and stick to mostly the blue runs. At Jackson Hole, the blues were fairly challenging and might have been labeled as a black run at other places. My three favorites runs were:

1. Bridger Gondola and ski down Lupine Way and various blues off this run. Bridger gondola and Lupine Way is right in the middle of the mountain (Apres Vous mountain) and have several blue trail options such as Nez Perce Traverse, Solitude Traverse, Sundance and many more.

2. Apres Vous quad chair and ski down Werner or Teewinot. This is towards the right side of the mountain and good blue runs to warm up for the trip.

3. Teton quad chair and ski down Wide Open. Wide Open was a nice wide but a more challenging blue.

Corbet's Couloir
(A couloir is a French word meaning "passage" or "corridor",
a narrow gully with a steep gradient in a mountainous terrain.)

My kids who ski expert terrain loved the many bowls and chutes on the Rendezvous side of the mountain. While the lines were long, the Tram is the best and probably the only way to get up Rendezvous Mountain and ski down one of its many black trails. To ski blacks in Apres Vous Mountain, it was best to take the gondola up and ski down any of the black trails off Casper. After 3 days of expert skiing with the ski instructors and training on similar chutes and glades, on the fourth day my son thought he was comfortable enough to try Corbet Couloir. Despite his mental and physical preparations with ski instructors, he felt challenged by the chute. Not sure if he will be able to summon the courage to ski Corbet’s chute again, but he was thrilled and completely pumped up by the time he skied down to the base. According to him, it was THE highlight of his trip and the biggest thrill he ever had thus far.

While the mountain is not as wide and spread out as some of the other U.S. ski resorts, Jackson Hole was probably the most challenging (I thought Aspen was challenging too). The elevation, and the steepness is very exhausting. The first two days were critical to stay hydrated to keep the headache at bay. The lodge bartender offered a concoction of water and cranberry juice, and it worked like a charm for me. For our family, mornings around 9 am was the best time for us to head out and by 2 pm we were completely beat. The mountain closes by 4pm and there is no night skiing (even if there was, there is no way we would have the energy to ski nights after a full day of skiing).

As for lodging, we stayed at Snake Riverlodge, a comfortable and cozy hotel without the price tag of a Four Seasons. The lodge was centrally located. Close to the tram, close to the gondola and close to the ski school. Compared to some of the other ski resorts such as Steamboat, Snowmass, Park City, Jackson Hole is a small resort. You could walk from one end of the base area to another in 10 minutes or less. While we were primarily interested in a ski in ski out property, Snake River Lodge was only a ski in. There is no ski out. The inconvenience was that you had to walk up 2 flights of stairs carrying your equipment to get to the Tram and Gondola and another flight of steps to get to the ski school and Apres Vous chair.

We had the double queen room which was nice for a hotel room but lacked any real space to store bags, lay out clothing to dry and relax in the room besides the bed. The presence of the ski rental shop & valet service was very convenient. We could leave our skis and boots with the valet at the end of our skiing, and the staff would store the equipment at the end of the day and bring it out first thing in the morning. Upon request, they also tuned and waxed our skis. While we were carrying our own skies, we did rent snowboard from the ski rental shop. One of the nicer amenities was the spa and pool. The snaking indoor-outdoor heated swimming pool with two hot tubs was very popular at the end of the day. Other spa amenities included bathroom facilities, showers, Jacuzzi tub, lounge area, the sauna and others.

Corbet's Cabin

In terms of food, the lodge, served tea, coffee and hot cocoa every morning, and every day apres ski appetizers from 4-5 pm. The cost of these was included in the daily lodge fee. There was a daily breakfast buffet for an additional $25 per person per day. For lunch and dinner, there was a bar in the lobby with a limited menu. We generally ate lunch on the mountain either at Rendezvous or Casper restaurants. Corbet's cabin (at the top of the Tram) serves fresh made waffles. While the waffles were nothing special (well, they are freshly made and warm), but a trip the top of the Tram is totally worth it. And if you are not skiing down the many black trails on that side of the mountain, might as well grab some warm waffles. The scenery at the top of Rendezvous is very striking though the wind makes it hard to stand out there for more than a few minutes. The only way to come down if you are not skiing is to take the Tram down. Once the Tram starts closing its doors, the operator cannot stop the process and if you miss squeezing through the closing Tram doors, well, you just have to wait another 10 minutes until the next Tram trip. The only way to see Corbet Couloir if you are not skiing Rendezvous Mountain is from the Tram itself. You will have to ask the locals or the operator to point it out.

Some of the other popular restaurants at Jackson Hole resort are Spur Restaurant, Il Villaggio restaurant, Teton Thai, Westbank Grill and the Handle bar. It is best to make advance reservations at any of these places but especially at the Thai restaurant. Thai restaurant is very small and a popular hangout, so there is always a long wait. I love Thai food, and particularly in the cold winters the spiciness of Thai food is always very welcome, but my kids felt that their food was a little too heavy on the ginger. So, if you are not a ginger root fan, you may want to reconsider. As for me I love ginger and we loved skiing Jackson Hole. The coziness of this ski resort unlike the other other large ski resorts is a great treat. Jackson Hole rightfully belongs on every skier's bucket list.

Ski Resorts: Steamboat vs. Park City vs. Whistler vs. Snowmass

2014-01-27T13:09:00.000-05:00

My Ranking: Based on the resorts I have skied

1 Whistler/Blackcomb (British Columbia)
2 Snowmass (Colorado)
3 Steamboat (Colorado)
4 Park City (Utah)
5 Aspen (Colorado)
6 Heavenly (California)
7 Snowshoe (W. Virginia)

Ski Resort Comparison

Criteria	Steamboat	Park City	Whistler	Snowmass	Aspen Mountain	Heavenly
My Overall Rating	4	4	5	4.5	4	3
Skiable Area	2,965	3,300	8,171	3,362	675	4,800
Vertical	3,668	3,100	5,280	4,406	4,406	3,500
Summit elevation	10,568	10,000	8,000	12,510	11,212	10,067
Base elevation	6,900	6,900	2,215	8,104	7,945	6,565
# of lifts	16	16	37	21	8	30
# of trails	165	116	200	94	76	97
Easy Trails	23	20	30	6%	0	19
Intermediate trails	69	58	110	47%	36	44
Advanced Trails	73	38	30	17%	20	29
Expert Trails	0	0	30	30%	20	5
Half Pipe	2	2	2	2	NA	1
Terrain Park	4	3	2	3	NA	5
Kids Ski School Ratings	5	4.5	4.5	4.5	0
Access to resort	4	5	4	4.5	4.5	3
Need for car	Not needed, easy shuttle access into town	Not needed, easy shuttle access into town	Car needed - taxis convinient $5-$10/trip. Public transportation poor	good public transport	good public transport	Car needed
Apres-Ski rating	3	4.5	4.5	3	5	3
ski in/ski out rating	4.5	4	5	5	0	4
On-mountain dining	4	4.5	4	5	5	3

Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort - Peak to Peak

2013-12-30T20:49:00.000-05:00

Dazzling, Drizzling, Daunting, Gigantic, Cloudy and Incredible and is how I would describe skiing the Whistler Blackcomb Mountains. Whistler Blackcomb is the largest ski resort of North America and it means valley drizzles, cloudy mountains, high alpine fresh snows and breathtaking views.

IIanaaq" (also Inuksuk), the mascot logo of the winter olympics at Whistler along Harmony Ridge

A clear blue sky at Blackcomb

Of the five days in December 2013 that we skied, we got three days of sunny blue skies, cold temperatures and the astounding glacial landscape views, the other two were cloudy and overcast.

Accommodations

Whistler on Dwellable

There seemed to be plenty of ski in/ski out options between Whistler and Blackcomb and plenty of upscale hotels. We were a group of 4 families and chose to rent a 5 bedroom home in the Pinnacle Ridge community on the Blackcomb Mountain. Pinnacle Ridge homes are considered ski in/ski out, but most of the homes in this area require a brief walk to the run. The yellow brick road run is right under the Magic chair and the Wizard Express lifts, an easy green run primarily for the beginners. The location is perfect for families and groups that have may have beginner skiers. If you are not used to skiing down at all, you can even walk down to the ski school (it might get icy or slushy but it is a short walk). We used to start our day by skiing down the Yellow brick run. The ski school is right at the bottom of this run. If you are in snowboarding or advanced ski school lessons, chances are you will need to go to the ski school on the whistler side. From the base of Blackcomb Mountain there are a couple of choices. If you are not a skier, you can walk to the Whistler base (a short walk). If you are a skier/boarder and need to get to whistler ski school, then you can also take the magic chair and ski down to the whistler side. A short and easy run, but again, it can get icy and slushy. If you are not in ski school, then I recommend you take the Wizard express followed by Solar Coaster Express right to the top to the Rendezvous lodge to get to the alpine area. From Rendezvous lodge you can take Peak 2 Peak gondola to get to the whistler side (an 11 min ride with gorgeous views), or ski on the Blackcomb side. We found that it was nicer to ski the whistler side in the mornings and to ski the Blackcomb side in the afternoons. It is faster and more convenient to take the Peak to Peak gondola from Blackcomb to Whistler Mountain.

Whistler Mountain

Ego bowl is a good family ski area with mostly intermediate and beginner runs. This area was wide and groomed. There were a lot of people in this area but it did not feel crowded. Off to the west (left) of the mountain, is the Harmony area with a brand new express chairlift. This is an incredibly beautiful scenic area with several intermediate and advanced runs. One of my favorites was the Harmony ridge, a very scenic intermediate run, that in places became fairly steep, narrow and bumpy due to heavy traffic. In our case, by the time we got to Harmony Ridge, most of the fresh snow was gone (and since natural snow was not abundant), the heavy traffic exposed the underlying stones and pebbles making the run quite treacherous (One of my family members suffered a major injury here). The advanced runs in the Harmony area are beautiful and not heavily trafficked. This area has one beginner run. Off to the north east is the whistler summit with several advanced runs and bowls. While we were there, several sections of this area were closed. My son did the glacier and whistler bowls that were open and really loved it (he did almost all the bowls in this area but his favorite were the sun bowl, back bowl). A bit to the south is the Franz's and Big Red express area. The greens along Franz's area are learner areas with a lot of ski school folks and kids. If you are not learning how to ski, it is best to avoid the greens here. The blues were fine but relatively narrower. The day we skied this area, it was very cloudy and we never saw anything beyond five feet in front of us.

An overcast day at Blackcomb

Blackcomb Mountain

Between the two mountains, I think, I liked Blackcomb a bit more. The two sides of the Blackcomb Mountain were drastically different from each other. On the east side of the mountain, the 7^th Heaven area was dazzling. We happened to ski here when it was sunny with clear blue skies, fresh blanket of snow and completely un-groomed. It was a love at first sight. Cloud Nine was one of my favorite runs and probably one of the few that I skied twice. To the west is the Glacier Express and Crystal Hut area. While the east was dazzling, the west was daunting. When they talk about glacial landscape, I guess it is this area they must be referring to. There were no trees, no greens, simply large rocks, cliffs and the glaciers. The landscape was stark and incredible. The advanced runs looked too daunting for me, so I stayed with the intermediates which were narrow in places with hardly a crowd. Road Runner and Twist and Shout seemed to be the favorite runs in this area. My son covered most of the advanced terrain in this area, and this area runs were his second favorite (after the Harmony runs). In the middle of the mountain, Springboard is a really long, nice and wide intermediate run that got bumpy in places as the day wore on. We found this area to be quite crowded. It got more icy and crowded as you get closer to the village, but up top, it was great. Easiest route (a green run) is a really nice long beginner run, but like all greens it gets pretty flat in some sections. I did not like Cruiser (an intermediate run) at all. Cruiser is great for people looking for large moguls, but I found it tough on my knees and for someone who is not very fond of moguls very difficult to navigate. The bumps were more like mini hills than moguls. Cruiser was not groomed while we were there. In the five days we skied Whistler Blackcomb, we covered a lot of the mountain but there was a lot left of the high alpine area still to be discovered for our next time.

Overall, Whistler Blackcomb ski resort had everything my family wanted, however the snow conditions were less than stellar. At the alpine level we got postcard worthy breathtaking views, endless stretches of ski runs and great snow. At the mid-mountain and village level, we got the clouds, the mild temperatures, the lack of natural snow, drizzly rain, periodically slushy snow that turned icy when the temperature dropped below freezing. Comparing Whistler vs Aspen vs Snowmass, I would pick Whistler for its incredible terrain and Snowmass for its convenience and all roundedness.

Recommended Areas of Improvement: First, the resort needs to mark their trails better. The mountain is enormous and it is easy for visitors to get lost. We had to stop quite often while skiing to get our bearings where multiple trails intersected because we had no idea where the trail we were on went. This is especially critical in the high-alpine areas where intermediate and advanced trails interspersed. This is also important as the resort allows backcountry skiing (which is awesome), but it was often confusing where the trail ended and backcountry started. If you are comfortable skiing all terrains, then unmarked trails is not a big issue, but if you are a beginner or intermediate skier then having well marked trails and easy access to grooming report makes a huge difference. The grooming report was available only online. The boards next to chair lifts mostly indicated the lifts that were open or closed, but not indicate which trails were open or which trails were groomed. Second, the resort can improve the quality of its mountain dining. There was sufficient variety in the menu but the food preparation could definitely use improvements. The restaurant scene and the cultural vibe was fantastic in the Whistler village. Third, making ski school changes more flexible. We had seven kids enrolled in ski school months in advance and one of the kids wanted to extend his enrollment in the program. It was quite a headache making the necessary changes. The ski school staff had to get a manager approval to switch lessons, but it seems there were not enough managers who had the authority to approve exchanges and refunds. We lost several hours and money because the manager was not available and took too long to call back. The manager is only located at the Whistler location, however the ski school is located at both Whistler and Backcomb. So if you need to make changes, better to make them at Whistler even though Blackcomb may be more convenient. We were trying to exchange a 2 day lift ticket pass into two additional days of ski school and were willing to pay the additional balance for the lessons. The ski school made us return our two day lift ticket for a 50% refund and buy 2 days of lessons at full price. This left a bad taste, instead of giving us 100% credit towards the lessons, they gave us only a 50% refund and made us buy lessons for non-discounted cost (other ski-lessons were discounted as we had bought the lessons months earlier).

1. Village/Town Feel: Whistler village has a great resort town vibe. It had a range of upscale hotels, a great selection of restaurants, diversity of shops and a great après ski vibe.

2. Ski School for Kids: The ski school was great. We had 7 kids in ski school and all the kids had fun. The two advanced skier kids skied mostly the alpine bowls and the glacier areas with an experienced instructor. We had three kids in the snowboarding lessons and they advanced through their lessons fairly well even though the conditions at village level were icy. On rainy and cloudy days, the ski school took the kids higher up to the mid mountain level. The youngest kid (aged six) got to learn mogul skiing, jumping of 6 foot cliffs, ski through the enchanted forest and raved about her daily excursions. Because of our dates, we had to enroll our kids in ski school from Sunday to Thursday, but if you are able to enroll from Monday to Friday, the ski school offers better discounted rates.

3. Number of Beginner Runs: The resort has 200 runs. Approx 30% were marked as greens. Since Dec of 2013 was not a good snow month at Whistler, a lot of these runs had the manmade snow. Almost all the beginner runs were groomed daily but the snow got slushy and icy towards the end of the day the closer you got to the village.

4. Non Skiing Activities: Like all big ski resorts, Whistler had the usual tubing, snowshoeing, x-country skiing, snow mobile tours, and many other activities.

5. Crowds: Even in the middle of peak holiday season, the resort did not feel crowded, especially since we stayed on the Blackcomb Mountain. We saw the Gondola lines on Whistler side were long, but never had line issues on the Blackcomb base. Generally they say, if you are west of the Continental Divide. Don't worry about it.

6. Airport Access: Whistler is about 3 hours drive from Vancouver. Unlike Colorado, the drive along the Sea to Sky Highway is pretty flat and easy.

7. Groceries: The best place to shop for groceries is in Squamish, a town approximately 45 mins south of Whistler. There is a grocery store and a convenience store in Whistler, but it is much smaller and more expensive. We did our primary grocery shopping in Vancouver (but it would have been just as convenient to stop in Squamish which is on the way to Whistler).

Note: We used WhistlerWired to make all arrangements for our ski trip except the airline portion. They were the listing agent for the home we reserved, they helped arrange our ski school lessons, purchase lift tickets and equipment rentals. We found them to be pretty responsive were quite happy with their service. We still needed to do our own research to identify which ski-lesson/lift tickets options and discounts worked best for us. But once we told them what we wanted, they were able to make appropriate reservations. It would have been great, if their staff was better versed in the various discount packages available (though I am sure we would still have done independent research).