The Benchside Fly Tyer

Some Discouraging News

2015-08-27T21:36:00.000-07:00

NEW BLOG: www.sstflies.blogspot.com

Subscribe by email to the new blog and you will be automatically entered to win free stuff!

I have some formatting issues with this blog that are well beyond my time fix. So it will be easier in the long run to start new. I will be slowly transferring information and adding new...

Be sure to check out the new format and post!

Thanks!

Fugly Bugger

2015-08-23T09:53:00.000-07:00

I am hoping I don't have to explain the slang terminology of the first word in this pattern's name. It is not pretty (pun intended). However, beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

You've probably notice a few changes from a standard woolly bugger- the peacock herl tail and dubbed body. It was a result of creative fly tying juices flowing, yet I won't claim any originality of the pattern. The whole premise of this step-by-step is to get the tier thinking more outside the "material box."

My preference for bugger bodies has always been dubbing. While adding a little time to pattern completion, a dubbed body creates a very buggy appearance, bulk (if desired), movement that chenille(s) cannot compete against, and the extra attraction of it's unique light refraction/signature- especially when synthetic materials are utilized. However, don't limit yourself... Natural hair, (or a mix of natural and synthetic) e.g., angora, opossum, squirrel, picked out work wonders at times!

This step-by-step utilizes a synthetic spectrumized peacock colored dubbing. Mr. Peacock dubbing from The Fly Tyers Dungeon (www.flytyersdungeon.com)(no affiliation) is very inexpensive and available in 12 wickedly vibrant fishy colors. I classify this material as semi-coarse and easy to dub.

Peacock herl for a tail? Peacock herl taken from under the eye possesses the most vivid, longest fibers off the stem and wonderful movement in the water. However, many consider it a little too weak for tailing material. Understandable, but the strength and magic of peacock is often underestimated. Chewed or broken herl can always be discreetly cut back to the body and the fly can then be fished as a Woolly Worm-ish pattern. Further trimming of the hackle results in a cased caddis. A suitable substitution is thin peacock sword.

Although not aesthetically pleasing in the eyes of most, other tailing materials include single strand floss, Angel Hair (or eqvuilant), metallic threads, and longer supple hair such as temple dog and arctic fox under fur. You are only limited by your imagination! The fuglier - the better!

Materials

Thread: 10/0 Veevus, black or choice

Hook: Daiichi 1260 size 6 (shown) or choice

Bead: Spirit River Brite Bead, 4.0mm, nickel black (shown) or choice

Weight to suit

Tail: 6 to 10 peacock herls taken from below the eye

Rib: Optional

Hackle: Black strung saddle

Body: Mr. Peacock dubbing (synthetic peacock color)

Step 1

Slid bead on to hook. Secure hook in vise. Additional weight may be added at this point. I have elected to slightly increase the weight and fill the void of bead with UTC wire as pictured.

Take 5 or 6 wraps of wire forward over the shank.

Once the number of wraps are complete, double back. Remove tag ends and push wire into the center of the bead.

Step 2

Start thread immediately behind bead and wind rearward stopping between the hook point and barb.

Step 3

Remove 6 to 10 peacock herls from under the eye. (Six are pictured.) Align tips. I prefer bugger tails slightly shorter than normal and have measured just short of one hook length. Secure herl with forward wraps of thread.

Step 4

Return thread to the rear of the hook.

The ribbing is optional and can be tied in during this step. I have elected to bypass the ribbing. The body will be dubbed loose enough for me to bury the hackle stem firmly in to the material.

Select a saddle hackle with fibers slightly longer than one gape length. Prepare by stripping one side free of fibers. Secure tip first to hook.

Step 5

Wax thread. Remove a small amount of dubbing from packaging.

Loosely apply/twist a small amount of dubbing. Appearance should look similar to the picture.

Wind forward to the bead. Note the shaggy appearance.

Step 6

Lift hackle straight up. Ensure fibers are pointed rearwards. Wrap hackle forward in 5 or 6 increments. Take 2 or 3 extra wraps behind the bead. Remove tag end. Secure with two whip finishes if ribbing was omitted.

If rib was utilized, counter-wrap over the hackle stem. Secure, remove tag end, and whip finish.

Step 7

The fly could easily be fish at this point. However, I like these patterns shaggy! Since the ribbing was omitted, I recommend a bodkin to carefully pick out the body material between the hackle wraps. A velcro or a bore cleaner may break the steam if too much pressure is applied.

Finished!

A quick side bar... Even though the body has been heavily picked out note how thin the body still appears. Additionally, keep those tails thin. A thinly dressed fly catches more fish!

Finally, one fishing technique I often use on the river is using a heavily weight Fugly Bugger (or any bugger) as a point fly in combination with a soft hackle or emerger patten. The cast is made three quarters upstream and worked to completion downstream. The strike can come at anytime, but normally it occurs as the flies near the end of the drift and begin to rise off the bottom.

Enjoy!

Something Simple

2015-08-09T09:43:00.001-07:00

When the bead head revolution exploded here in America I distinctly remember an article in one the fly fishing rags about the importance of being simplistic. A few paragraphs stated bead heads were best fished in the riffles where trout had to quickly react (or not) and the need for exacting patterns were not warranted in such waters. Certainly made sense to me at the time, but truth be told, I still follow this guidance today.

I realize a lot has changed in the last few decades, but these super simple flies are great searching and impressionistic patterns perfect for the beginning angler/tier. Whether you fish a lake or river for trout or panfish these patterns catch a lot fish!

The flies in the article were tied with natural materials, e.g., hare's ear or opossum, and a rib. But think of the possibilities today! I vividly imagine several different material combinations...

Materials

Thread: 8/0 color to match

Hook: Daiichi 1150 (or choice), sizes 8-18 (size 12 pictured)

Bead: Size appropriate gold (or choice)

Rib: Size appropriate gold oval. There are literally dozens of options. Try Krystal Flash, UTC wire, metallic thread(s), etc. You are only limited by your imagination.

Body: Custom blend 40% natural hare's ear, 40% natural American opossum, 20% clear Antron (pictured). Again, there are a whole host of options for a body.

Step 1:

Place bead and hook in vise.

Step 2:

Additional weight can be added at this point. I have elected to fill the bead with turns of copper wire. Push wire in the void of the bead.

Step 3:

Start thread immediately behind bead/wire. Tie in tinsel.

Step 4:

Wrap thread to a stopping point on the bend of the hook as show. Return thread to the starting point.

Step 5:

Heavily wax thread and return to the bend of the hook. Though returning the thread to the starting point in step 4 may seem redundant, a base of heavy wax along the shank aids in keeping the hare's ear stationary with a lightly dubbed thread as well as ensuring the ribbing is tightly secured to the shank.

Note the coating of wax on the hook shank.

Step 6:

Lightly dub hare's ear around the thread. Too tightly will give a noodle effect. The trick is less pressure. The hair will loosen as you wrap the dubbing forward giving the desired effect.

Step 7:

Wrap dubbing forward to the bead however, do not wrap too tightly against the bead. You'll need a little room for the head.

Note the appearance of the dubbed body. The dubbing may be picked out further for a very shaggy appearance, or if the body is too heavily, simply pinch the hairs and lift off. This is the beauty of a loosely dubbed thread. It takes a little practice, but worth the time saving!

Step 8:

Start the ribbing with one turn at the rear of the body and make 5 or 6 even and firm wraps forward. Secure ribbing.

Whip finish and add a drop of head cement. All done!

Another option that has been deadly is the addition of a hot butt. This is nothing more than laying a base of fluorescent thread down as shown below. Note how floss-like flat the thread is. Keeping the thread flat makes for professional looking hot butts. Pictured is 70 denier UTC in chartreuse.

Add a coat of head cement. This not only keeps the thread from getting chewed up, but it aids in keeping the thread's brilliancy. Change thread back to matching color or simply continue the fly with the "hot" color.

Have fun! The sky is the limit with color combinations!

Tight lines!

JAB's Riffle Robber

2015-08-07T02:01:00.003-07:00

This little fly came to fruition when I lived on the banks of Russian River in Ukiah, California. While there was little in the way of trout fishing on the river below Coyote Dam, the headwaters above Lake Mendocino was an untapped jewel of a fishery.

As a youngster I spent many summers visiting family in Ukiah and fishing for smallmouth in the river. After all, it was a quick 5-minute walk to wet a line. It wasn't until Uncle Sam sent me to the Bay Area for a tour on Treasure Island and moving 90-miles to north did I discover paradise.

Once the household goods were moved in the first the did was prospect the surround area for quality fishing. Although I knew the Eel River was short drive, Cow Mountain had trout plants, Clear Lake had monster bass, and the lower Russian had steelhead, I was looking for something closer to home. I set out for the headwaters above the lake.

Within two miles of turning off Highway 20 I ran into a warden from California Fish and Game parked in a pull out along the river. I asked if he had a few minutes to answer questions about the headwaters. In a nutshell he said the trout fishing should be off the hook with the amount of plants and large fish in the river. He also mentioned that he rarely had the opportunity to talk with other anglers because no one knew of this fishery. That's all I had to hear... I spent a few minutes overturning rocks looking for clues.

I have yet to encounter the amount of insects I did that day! The amount of caddis and large black stoneflies was staggering. Since the amount of stoneflies heavily outweighed the caddis I figured these large bugs were going to be the ticket. I set off for home to return "loaded for bear." Boy Howdy, I was wrong.

I caught a few fish, but it took a couple of weeks to truly figure the puzzle out. For some reason, the fish preferred caddis patterns all season long. Interesting? I thought so... Many of the caddis in the headwaters had a golden goniochromism. While I tried various materials to replicate this iridescence, including oval gold tinsel and Krystal Flash, it wasn't until I stumbled upon an antique gold color at the craft store did the game serious change.

The Riffle Robber is a two material game changer! Not only does this fly take less than five minutes to tie, but the true beauty rests with ability to fish this pattern both upstream and swinging downstream. I feel the effectiveness of this pattern comes from a collar of very translucent and wavy attributes of the American opossum. The translucency of this material is first rate (akin to polar bear) and although the under fur is somewhat coarse it breathes well against the current.

With the exception of a few patterns, I normally do not tie with a bead on the hook. Rather, I slide a bead on leader before tying on the fly. Not to worry... The bead will find it's way to the fly during the cast and/or drift. However, sliding a bead on the leader does a few things: (1) saves a lot of money over the long run and (2) the ability to switch the color of bead and/or convert non-beaded patterns. (3) Bright bead's (gold and copper) protective coatings eventually fail (especially copper) after exposure to the amino acid on our fingers. There is no longer a need to tie more beadhead flies to fill the box once the coating fails. Give it a shot- you'll be happier!

Materials

Weight to suit

Thread: 8/0 to match

Hook: Daiichi 1150 (or choice) Size 10 pictured

Bead: Size appropriate- gold, black, copper

Body: Embroidery thread, DMC #E436, Antique Effects (Antique Gold color) or DMC #E703, Jewel Effects (Bright Lime)

Available at craft stores

Color: Natural American opposum

Step 1

Place bead on hook and secure in vice.

Step 2

As this point additional weight can be added. In this step by step, I am wrapping copper wire to fill the bead's void. Wrap 5 or 6 turns of medium UTC wire, then double back over previous wraps and trim.

Push wire into the bead.

Step 3

Start thread immediately behind the bead.

Cut approximately 10-inch of DMC embroidery thread. You'll notice 6-strands of embroidery thread that will separate upon cutting to length. Take two strands and double the ends (4-strands) and secure the ends.

Tightly wrap thread rearwards stopping at a point on the hook as shown below. Return thread in close, tight wraps.

Step 4

With a dubbing hook or spinning tool, tightly spin embroidery thread counter-clockwise until material nearly doubles over. Spinning tightly in a counter-clockwise direction will force the rope to lay rearwards allowing for a nice tight look. Wrap forward providing a segmented body. Secure material with a few thread in position shown.

Step 5

Form a dubbing loop and wax thread.

Cut a portion of American opossum from the hide equating to approximately an inch and one half of fur in the dubbing loop. (This will take a few attempts to get the portion right.) Remove all longer guard hairs. You should left with the darker tips of the under fur. Place under fur in the dubbing loop. The tips of the under fur should extend about one hook length past the bend of the hook.

Trim the hair as close to the thread as possible.

Spin until the hair stands outs at a 90-degree angle. Comb or pick out any trapped hairs.

Moisten and draw under fur to the rear. Wrap forward in close, tight turns.

Step 5

Whip finish and trim thread. You are ready to fish!

Again, this fly can be fished both upstream and down. I thoroughly enjoy covering as much water as possible fishing dead drift upstream between riffles. After covering several hundred yards upstream this fly can be cast quartering downstream and slowly twitched back to the rod trip on the return trip to the truck.

The wet look

Green and gold versions.

DMC embroidery threads and a patch of American opossum.

Enjoy!

JAB's Glitter Midge

2012-03-11T17:38:00.000-07:00

I was doing a little experimenting with the camera's macro feature and software package this afternoon... I figured out how to blow up pictures for more detail! As a result, I decided to tie some smaller midge patterns and share the results. Let's a take look at a pattern that is not only simple, quick, and fun to tie, but bomb-proof, sink quickly, and pretty darn deadly.

My original JAB's Glitter Midge utilized epoxy for the coating however, since various ultra violet light reactive resins have hit the scene I have strictly utilized them- mainly Clear Cure Goo due to it's very clear finish. These resins save a tremendous amont of time at the bench; which, equates to more time on the water or for preparations for the extended trip.

Materials:

Hook: Daiichi 1260 (size 12-16)
Thread: 8/0 for sizes 12 and 14, 12/0 for size 16 (Color of choice)
Body: Thread covered with Clear Cure Goo in two steps. Fine Glitter.
Throax: Thread covered with Clear Cure Goo in two steps
Gills: (Optional) Oral-B dental floss. I will be tying a larva pattern- no gills.

Step 1:

Wind thread rearward to a point just above the hook barb and return to a spot approximately two eye lengths behind the eye.

Step 2:

Build up a thread thorax area as pictured.

Whip finish and cut thread.

Step 3:

Apply a very thin coating of Clear Cure Goo over thread body and thorax. Sprinkle a small amount or fine red or pearl glitter over resin. Cure resin with ultra violet light.

Step 4:

Apply a second coating of Clear Cure Goo and cure. The finish after curing will be somewhat tacky. Apply a very thin coating of Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails polish over the resin to correct this.

Perhaps the first thing you'll notice about this fly is the uneven coating. You don't need to be absolutely perfect. In fact, you'll find that an irregular coating produces more fish. I surmise it has to do with light reflection like the naturals.

These glitter patterns can be tied in a wide array of colors, but I keep my selection simple: black, olive and red. I would also recommend trying various colors of glitter.

Enjoy!

JAB's Frostbite Midge

2012-03-06T23:21:00.002-08:00

I know first hand there are plenty of hardcore anglers that fish our year-around lakes, and many are thinking isn't it a little too late to post midge patterns, but with the lowland lake season opener fast approaching I felt this would be a good time to introduce a few midge patterns to the blog. Just like the old saying, "There's never a bad time to fish a midge," I guess there never a bad time to post a pattern... especially if a beginner is reading and learning to tie. With that out of the way, I'll concentrate on tying some midge patterns over the course of the month.

The Frostbite Midge has been my staple for many years. Tied in the more earthy colors wound over silver tinsel this midge pattern is deadly. In fact, I wouldn't hesitate to fish tie and fish pink, purple, blue, or chartreuse either.

For those tiers wondering about patterns for the streams, you can simply scale these patterns to smaller hooks and expect the same results.

Materials:

Hook: Daiichi 1260 Size 8-16 (Pictured is sie 14) and 5/32 white brass bead
Thread: 8/0 red or black
Rib: 6/0 white thread
Underbody: Silver Flashabou
Body: Bright red Frostbite
Thorax: 70/30 mixture of red and black Halo dubbing (very fine Antron)

Step 1:

Secure hook in vise. Start thread immediately behind the bead and build a hump. Push hump inside the bead.

Step 2:

Tie in silver Flashabou and white 6/0 thread.

Step 3:

Wrap Flashabou back past the barb and return. The Flashabou will provide a brilliant glow through the transparent Frostbite.

Step 4:

Tie in Frostbite. Wind back to the end of the silver Flashabou and return to thorax area.

Step 5:

Wrap ribbing forward.

Step 6:

Coat the body with Sally Hansen Hard as Nail polish, epoxy, or Clear Cure Goo.

Step 7:

Dub small thorax. Whip finish. Completed!

Midges are simple, fun to tie, and you can complete a lot of them in a short period of time. Fill up those boxes with various sizes and colors: black, red, brown, olive, cream, and tan.

If you bring a little patience to the lake you will certainly be rewarding!

Enjoy!

The Devil's Advocate (Leech Pattern)

2012-03-05T23:42:00.000-08:00

The Devil's Advocate receive it's indoctrination in a place most people wouldn't believe if they saw the event take place themselves. After a very fishless morning in 25-degree weather using every traditional pattern known to catch fish in these renowned waters, I decided to try something a little off the wall. I have had great days using Wooly Buggers at this location, especially in white, but this leech pattern was a little odd yet decided to give it a shot. What did I have to lose?

I originally designed the Devil's Advocate for the stunted largemouth bass in the lake I once lived on for the coming spring. Sure enough... the Rocky Ford fish attacked the Devil's Advocate with vengence. The rest is, as the old saying goes... history!

Materials:

Hook: Daiichi 1260 (pictured size 6)
Thread: 6/0 Black (or color of tail/collar)
Tail: Rabbit strip
Collar: Rabbit spun in a dubing loop
Body: Thread built up in a taper and covered with epoxy, Clear Cure Goo, or Liquid Fusion.
(Glitter may be added.) I have sprinkled red glitter over a thin coat of Clear Cure Goo, cured the first coat, and then applied a second clear coat.

Step 1:

Place hook in vise. Start thread approximately two eye lengths behind eye. This will help build a smooth transition in the taper.

Step 2:

Tie in rabbit strip. The length of strip is determined by the hook shank. The hide portion of the strip should equal the hook shank.

Step 3:

Make a dubbing loop and wax thread. Apply hair in loop and spin. Hairs should protrude at 90-degree angles from the thread. Trapped fibers should be picked out with your bodkin. Length of collar is a personal choice, but I prefer a distance of half a tail length. This will add a beautiful action to the fly.

Step 4:

Wrap a collar to hide the tail's thread hump. Two or three turns should be sufficient.

Step 5:

Build a thread taper over the hook shank.

Step 6:

Apply a coating over the thread taper and allow to dry/cure. I have elected to use a very thin coating Clear Cure Goo sprinkled with red glitter before curing. Once an even coating of Clear Cure Goo and glitters has been applied, I cured the coating with an UV light.

Apply a second, clear coat- no glitter and cure. Finished!

The Devil's Advocate can be tied in numerous colors. The standard black, purple, olive, and red colors are deadly for lake fishing! Another note to mention is the utilization of different size rabbit strips- not only in length, but magnum or mirco widths according to species targeted and hook size.

Have fun with this pattern. It can be deadly!

Enjoy!

Clouser Minnow

2012-02-29T23:55:00.002-08:00

I'll finish up the month with Puget Sound's most popular streamer pattern- the Clouser Minnow. I won't spend a lot of time writing about the history of the most famous streamer pattern in existence. There's absolutely no need to here- it would take days, if not weeks, perhaps months, or even years!

The Clouser Minnow's pedigree is long, distinctive, and rest assured, will live on for generations to come. I highly doubt there will ever be another streamer pattern to surpass the Clouser's legacy.

If you fish Puget Sound, or any freshwater/saltwater destination, the Clouser Minnow is a MUST HAVE fly!

Material:

The myriad of materials used are numerous. Everyone seems to have a favorite and I am no exception! Here's what I utilized, and normally use, for fishing and this step-by-step pictorial:

Thread: Uni-thread Mono, clear, 4m
Hook: Daiichi 2546 #6
Eyes: Spirit River Real-eyes Plus, Nickel/Pearl, 5/32"
Wing (bottom): White australian sheep
Wing (top): White autralian sheep over a few strands of UV Minnow Belly.
Topping: Black Light Angel Hair

Step 1:

Place hook in vise. Wind a single layer of thread at approximately 1/3 of the hook length.

Step 2:

Place eyes over the layer of thread and make a few figure 8 wraps to ensure proper position. If satisfied with positioning, apply a small drop of Zap-A-Gap to thread wraps. Continue with firm wraps and super glue as necessary.

Step 3:

Tie in a small bunch of australian sheep behind the eyes and secure with wraps winding to the hook bend and returning to the starting point. Wind thread forward of the eyes. Bring butt ends over the eyes and secure bottom wing.

Step 4:

Remove hook from vise. Place fly upside down in vise and lock in place. Tie in a few strands of UV Minnow Belly in at the mid way point. Lock material in place by bring the UV Minnow Belly back over the eyes.

Step 5:

Tie in top wing. Use a little more hair to provide more profile. The hair should be slightly longer than the bottom wing.

Step 6:

Tie in approximately 15 to 25 strands of Angel Hair at the midway point. Lock in place by bringing the Angel Hair back over the eyes. Build a small but proportionate head with thread. The Angel Hair should be visible through the thread wraps. Apply a few coats of head cement (or apply a single coat of epoxy).

Finshed!

A couple things to keep in mind:

1) Do not tie the eyes too close to the hook eye. The number one mistake most tiers make.

2) Tie the wing(s) sparse.

If you haven't had a chance to hit the "Benchside Fly Tyer's" "Like" button on Facebook now would be a great time to do so... I will be drawing a name around 4PM ( 01 March) for a large patch of australian sheep.

Enjoy!

JAB's Kelp Hopper (Isopod)

2012-02-24T00:52:00.001-08:00

I won't put you to sleep writing about the particulars of isopods, there is plenty of literature to do that for me, but they do resemble the pill bug we played with as kids (curled into a ball). A quick rule of thumb for chosing a color to fish is simply looking to the water. Use various shades of brown to brownish red in areas of kelp and shades of olive to brownish olive patterns in vicinity of eel grass or rockweed. The size of isopods vary from minute to 1 1/2-inches within Puget Sound, and though some anglers (including myself) tie patterns in the #14-#20 range, I have had much better results utilizing patterns in #6 or #8.

The best news.... if you can tie a freshwater scud pattern you are in business in short order!

Materials

Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 (Size 6 or 8)(Size 6 pictured)
Thread: Color to match body
Body: Various shades of olive to brown. I mix Mr. Peacock (spectrumize) Dubbing and Arizona Peacock dubbing to produce many vivid shades of the aforementioned colors
Shellback: Mirage Flashabou coated with Clear Cure Goo or Liquid Fusion.

Step 1:

Start thread just behind the eye and wind to the bend.

Step 2:

Tie in Mirage Flashabou and wrap forward butting the eye.

Step 3:

Apply dubbing to the thread and wind just past the bend.

Step 4:

Bring Mirage Flashabou back over the body and secure with a whip finish behind the body.

Step 5:

Hold shellback straight out, parallel with shank, and cut even with the bend of the hook. The shellbeack with follow the contour of the bend. Cut thread.

Step 6:

Apply Clear Cure Goo or Liquid Fusion on entire shellbeck. You are ready to fish!

Enjoy!

JAB's Sand Lance

2012-02-20T18:26:00.000-08:00

I have seen a lot of different sand lance patterns over the years. The most successful patterns are tied with a thin profile, possess unparalleled movement, translucency, or a combination of all three- realistic for these eel-like fish. The myriad of material combinations are endless however, it will appear over time the simple ties are the most effective.

My own JAB's Sand Lance has been a phenomenal producer. The tying techniques are nothing special; therefore, this is a great fly to learn how to tie sand lance patterns. However, the uniqueness comes from the wing material- australian sheep. The hair is extremely translucent, wispy, and possesses great movement in the water. In fact, I have been steadily replacing arctic fox, marabou, and some synthetics with australian sheep for my small harwing style patterns.

Should you decided to spend any amount of time throwing flies in the saltchuck it is highly recommended that you carry a few sand lance patterns. They flat out produce!

Lastly, by shortening the wing and adding a little more bulk you can effectively convert this into herring, sardine, or anchovy pattern.

Materials:

Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 (Size 4-8) (pictured is a size 6)

Thread: Uni- mono, clear/fine, size 4m

Wing: Australian sheep mixed with 4 to 6 strands of UV Minnow Belly or UV Lite Brite

Topping: Baitfish or peacock (color) Angel Hair

Eyes: Pearl 1.5 coated with Liquid Fusion

Step 1:

Start mono thread approximately one half eye length behing hook's eye. Wrap towards the rear approximately 15-turns. Apply a small drop of Zap-A-Gap. This will keep the wing from spinning over the hook shank.

Step 2:

Select a small amount of australian sheep from patch. Comb out shorter hairs. Cut 4 to 6 strands of UV Minnow Bellow (or similiar) and mix into the wing. A quick way to mix the two materials is combing the UV Minnow Belly into the hair, or you can also use the "rolled" method. "Rolling" is best described as folding the material over itself until the two materials are equally mixed. When satisfied with the correct amount and mixed material cut a slight taper at the butt end of the hair. This will alleviate a sharp cut off point (or hump) at the tie in point. Secure with tight turns of mono thread. (Do not use excessive turns of mono thread to secure wing- keep it thin.) The length of the wing is approximately 5-hook lengths.

Step 3:

Select approximately 15 to 20 strands of Angel Hair and tie in at the mid way point (as pictured). The wraps should be tight to the eye. Once secured bring the Angel Hair back over the wing and wrap close intervals to the rear. Whip finish and cut mono thread.

Step 4:

Remove an eye from backing and place into position. Repeat for opposite side. There are many ways to place adhesive eyes, but I find it easiest to use my bodkin. Normally the head of a fly would be a slightly larger diameter than pictured making eye placement easier. However, since we need to maintain a thin profile the eyes probably will not fully adhere to the contour of the head (as pictured). However, I have a solution!

Apply a small portion of Liquid Fusion like you would epoxy. One the greatest attributes this urethene glue has is it's shrinking nature when drying. Therefore, the eyes will receded onto the thread during the drying/curing phase.

Freshly applied Liquid Fusion.

Cured and ready to fish!

Enjoy!

Are you new the The Benchside? Now would be a good time to mention I am giving away a nice patch of australian sheep on my Facebook page (The Benchside Fly Tyer). All you need to do is hit my page's "like" button and the "like " button under the Squidley Do-Right fly. I'll will pick someone at the end of the month. This material is absolutely gorgeous!

JAB's Moa Boa Sculpin

2012-02-19T08:27:00.000-08:00

Have you ever ran into an off-the-wall material at the craft store? I did. Approximately three years ago I was tagging along with the "Scrapbook Queen" at Michael's in Tacoma (Washington) and decided to venture off on my own. I have been in this particular store several times and figured I knew every nook and cranny (where the good stuff is found). However, on this day, I stumbled upon the Mother Lode of materials. Passing through the yarn section was a large flat table with a couple hundred skeins of an unique crochet type material called Moa Boa (www.sierrapacificcrafts.com) . Brown, black, olive, maroon, and/or a mottled combination of these colors were piled high with a large sign - CLEARANCE $1.00. Wow, a dollar for a skein of 85-yardsl! I can only describe the material as strung thread (like strung marabou or peacock herl)(unique eh?). After a closer "touchy feely" look the wheels upstairs starting to burn up the bearings (so to speak). "Wow, what a wonderful leechy material," I thought. Once home I immediately hit the bench and began tying different patterns. First, I tied various leech patterns (nice). Next were various dragonfly nymphs... (killer) "Wait a minute!" "I bet this mottled stuff would make a dynamite sculpin!," thinking aloud. After several different patterns I settled on tying this specific one. Simple, quick, and deadly- just they way I like my flies.

A couple of notes, (1) the more you fish one pattern, the more effective it becomes. The material is a little stiff at first, but individual strands unravel over time becoming soft, marabou-like. (2) It is particularily effective in faster tidal movements where the fibers react more, and (3) HANG ON!

Material:

Thread: 6/0 color to match body (pictured is olive dun)

Tube: Pro Tube Fly System's Microtube with hook guide

Body: Mottled Moa Boa crochet material

Collar (1): Red STS dubbing (loose)

Collar (2): Natural pheasant rump or schlappen (or color to match)

Cone: Spirit River modified nickel plated cone

Hook: Choice (I am using a Gamakatsu SC15 #4)

Step 1:

Apply a drop of Zap-A-Gap to the rear portion of the mircotube. Join mircotube with hook guide. Place on needle. Start thread at the rear of the tube (as pictured).

Step 2:

Tie in Moa Boa and wind forward. Wind each wrap close to the preceding turn, but do not overlap. This will allow the fibers to breathe and swim freely.

Note the excellent mottled effect- brown plus light and dark olive.

Step 3:

Use a brush and/or comb to unravel the thread fibers. This will take a few minutes.

The fibers should have a softer appearance upon completion. Again, the fibers will further soften after fishing.

Step 4:

Loosely dub a small collar of red dubbing material (red STS dubbing is pictured).

Step 5:

Select, tie in, and fully wrap a longer pheasant rump hackle (color to match) or schlappen.

After winding pheasant rump, whip finish, apply Zap-A-Gap to thread, and immediately slide cone over the tube.

Step 6:

Remove tube from needle. Use a razor blade to remove the front portion of the tube. Leave approximately 1/16 of an inch. Use the blue portion of the flame to flare or roll back the tubing against the cone locking it in place

You are all finished!

Here's approximately 10-feet of Moa Boa. This stuff is awesome! Can you see the sculpin pattern?

Sandstrom Baitfish: A Variation

2012-02-18T00:08:00.000-08:00

Garry Sandstrom is the creative mind behind some of the most productive flies an angler can use on Puget Sound. His Sandstrom Baitfish is no exception. This simple, unassuming pattern was originally tied on a long shank hook, a body of silver tinsel or diamond braid, and a wing of polar bear topped lime lame.

Frankly, I am not a fan of long shank hooks for a few reason. (1) A long shank hook provides the fish more leverage to throw the hook. (2) The wire diameter is typically double the thickness potentially causing harm to the fish, and (3) the hooks are a bugger to sharpen, or keep sharp.

I have simplified Garry's pattern... The hook has been replaced with a short shank Gamakatsu SC15, a wing of arctic fox under fur, a topping of Krystal Flash, and instead of using red thread for the collar, replaced with Glimmer Thread. Instead of a body of tinsel I have replaced this component with an under wing of a few strands of Spirit River Crystal Wraps material. Lime thread? It has been a long time since I have seen any.. so how about chartreuse?

Material:

Thread: 6/0 chartreuse
Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 (size of choice)(pictured #6)
Underwing: Crystal wrap strands
Wing: Arctic fox underfur
Wing topping: Chartruese Krystal Flash
Collar: Red Glimmer Thread

Step 1:

Start thread approximately one eye length behind the eye. Wind towards the read of the hook approximately 15-wraps. Ideally we will have a little bigger yet elongated head upon completion of using the chartreuse thread.

Step 2:

Pull one ultra violet and one silver strand from a strip of Crystal Wrap. Tie in at the halfway point. You should notice a distinct "V" shape in the strands- this is your tie in point.

Lock strands in place by folding material over the hook shank and securing with a few wraps of thread.

Step 3:

Cut a small portion of arctic fox from the tail. remove all guard hairs and shorter under fur. The length of the wing is a personal choice, but personally I like a length of 3 to 3 1/2 times the hook length.

Step 4:

Tie in two strands of chartreuse Krystal Flash and secure by bringing the material back over the wing and winding a few wraps. At this point, the head should have a slight oval look. Whip finish.

Step 5:

Once chartreuse thread whip finished and cut, apply Zap-A-Gap on the head. Immediately take a few turns of Glimmer Thread for the collar. Before you cut the Glimmer Thread, apply a small drop to the head. Once tacky to dry, cut the Glimmer Thread. Please note I didn't whip finish the Glimmer Thread. It is a lot thicker than thread and whip finishing would have created a large hump. Once Zap-A-Gap is completely dry add a couple of coats of head cement. You're finished!

Enjoy!

Squidley-Do-Right (Squid Tube Fly Pattern)

2012-02-11T15:06:00.000-08:00

Psssst.. I have a secret fly pattern here- the Squidley-Do-Right. Unlike Squidley's cartoon character cousin Dudley, who always succeeded with pure luck on his side, this pattern has "eat me" written all over it! Rest assured, if there's fish around, Squidley will "do right."

A myriad of materials can be used to tie this pattern, but what I truly like about tying the Squidley is it's simplicity. It is one of the few patterns that I tie incorporating chenille; which, speeds up the tying. Adding glow in the dark materials for night fishing has been deadly, as well as, replacing arctic fox (original material) for the tail and collar with australian sheep has proven to be more effective. Regardless of the materials you choose, this is a killer blackmouth, coho, and searun cutthroat fly!

Materials

Tube: Pro Tube System Mircotube and hookguide
Thread: White UTC 70 denier
Tail (The squid's head): White australian sheep spun in a dubbing loop. Marabou, rabbit, or any soft underfur is acceptable.
Tentacles: A few strands of pearl Baitfish Emulator tied over the top of the tail.
Body (Mantle): Medium white trilobal chenille.
Eyes: Pearl 3.5 3-D eyes super glued to body.
Collar (Stabilizer fins): White australian sheep spun in a dubbing loop. Marabou, rabbit, or any soft underfur is acceptable.
Cone: Spirit River Nickel

Step 1:

Place tube with hook guide on needle or mandrel. Start thread near the junction. Form a dubbing and spin australian sheep. The length of the fibers should extend slightly past the hook guide. Take two to three full turns of sheep with the first turn butted against the junction. This will flare the hair. Sparse is key...

Step 2:

Tie in 6 to 10 Baitfish Emulator fibers over the top of the tail. Length is approximately two tail lengths.

Step 3:

Tie in chenille and wrap forward with approximately 10-turns. Leave plenty of room behind the end of the tube.

Step 4:

The eyes can be tricky, but here's how I complete this step. Using a bodkin, lift and turn over eye from wax paper. Hopefully, the bodkin's tip is still adhered to the eye. Place a small drop of Zap-A-Gap on back the of the eye. Lift and place eye into desired position. Slowly remove bodkin then press firmly with the half hitch end of the bodkin. Repeat for the far side of the tube,

If desired, the fly could be finished at this step.

Step 5:

Form a dubbing loop and spin sheep hair taking three or four turns (sparse). Whip finish and cut thread.

Step 6:

Place a drop of Zap-A-Gap over the thread and slide modified Spirit River cone over the tube. Press firmly over the collar. You can refer to the Simple Baitfish Tube for modified cones here

Step 7:

Remove tube from needle or mandrel. Take a razor blade and remove all but 1/16 of an inch. Use a lighter and apply the blue flame portion to the tube. This will roll back or flare the tube which locks the cone on to the tube.

Enjoy!

Simple Baitfish Tube (SBT)

2012-02-06T22:14:00.000-08:00

Do you go through a lot of beach flies? If the answer is yes then you'll probably want a very simple yet effective pattern to tie... something quick that can fill the empty voids of a fly box rather quickly.

It wasn't too long ago when salmon taken on fly gear was breaking new ground in the Puget Sound. Baitfish patterns of polar bear or bucktail adorned long shank stainless steel hooks to pursue the quarry. Soon thereafter, synthetic tying materials starting making their way into the fly tier's arsenal. Next, new hook manufacturers changed tying techniques and styles with their unique line-up of hooks. While many anglers still perfer tying their patterns on hooks, there's yet another dimension which has gained a much larger audience within the last two decades.

Europeans have been tying and fishing tube flies for years, yet for some reason or another, tube flies didn't gain much ground in America until Tube Flies, A Tying and Historical Guide (Mark Mandell and Les Johnson) was published in 1995. Anglers soon discovered the tube fly's numerous advantages and how easy it was to convert (tie) older patterns on to tubes. In short, a new tying revolution is here- tube flies!

I don't claim any originality to this pattern, but the Simple Baitfish Tube (SBT) was devised under the "KISS" (Keep It Simple ......) philosophy. Perhaps the only step I do differently than what is generally accepted or taught is winding a collar of hair instead of the traditional stacking or layering material around the tube. Nonetheless, it is a very quick and simply tie. More importantly, it is a "lights out" pattern in the spring!

Materials:

Tube: Pro Tube Fly System Mircotube (or choice) and Pro Hookguide (I recommend preparing several tubes in advance.)
Thread: White UTC 70
Collar: White australian sheep (or arctic fox, finn raccoon underfur)
Underwing: UV Minow Belly
Wing: White australian sheep topped with material and color of choice.
Cone: 3/16-inch nickel (choice size)
Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 (or choice)

Step 1:

Place a small drop of Zap-A-Gap on rear portion of tube. Slide Hook guide onto the rear of the tube. Place tube on needle. Start thread just forward of junction point.

Step 2:

Form a dubbing loop and wax thread. Select a medium size clump of soft under fur and place in the loop. The tips of the hair should extend just past the end of the junction tube. Clip excess hair close to the thread. This will remove excess build up of hair in the thread during the tying process.

Step 3:

Spin dubbing loop clockwise to form a chenille-like rope. The fibers should extend out from the thread at 90-degree angles. You will find by dampening and stroking fibers to the rear of the tube thoughout the winding process an invaluable tying management tool. Wind fibers around the tube 3 to 5 times depnding on the material used. Arctic fox will usually take three turns, whereas, finn raccoon and australian sheep requires a minimum of 4 turns due to their fine and wispy nature.

Step 4:

Tie in 3 to 6 strands of UV Minnow Belly and secure strands by bringing the material back over the fly and locking with a few wraps of threads.

Step 5:

Select a small clump of hair and comb out underfur. Tie in wing to desired length. To maximize the effectivenss of the fly, keep the wing sparse. Tying tip: it is important to keep the thread wraps firm yet to a minimum. This will facilitate hiding the thread wraps and allowing the cone to follow the natural curvature of the hair without a large gap. The photo in step 7 shows a small gap between the rear of the cone and forward portion of the hair. This was for illustration purposes only.

Step 6:

Add an over wing (or topping). Color and material is a personal choice, but natural hairs such as arctic fox, temple dog, finn raccoon, etc., are excellent choices. In the synthetic department, I perfer materials such as hanked Lite Bright or Angel Hair. In the photo below I used a very small amount of chartreuse arctic fox.

Step 7:

Once step 6 is complete, add a drop of Zap-A-Gap to the thread wraps. Before the super glue dries, firmly slide a cone head over the head.

Note:

Unfortunately, Pro Tube System's cones lack the weight I like. I modified the Spirit River cones to fit these tubes by reeming the inside of each cone with a drill bit in order to facilitate their use. Completing a few dozen cones in advance will save time a lot of time at the bench.

Step 8:

Remove the tube from needle. Use an X-acto knife or razor blade to cut tubing leaving approximately 1/16 of an inch in front of the tube. Please note how the cone is sitting now- no gap and in place on the hair.

Step 9:

This step take a little practice.... To secure the cone to the tube use a lighter to roll (flare) back the outer edge of the tube. The heat from the flame will naturally flare back over the front opening of the tube. Only use the blue flame (coolest) portion of the lighter when lit. Too much heat will close the hole in the tube.

Step 10: (Optional)

Depending on the size and type of hook you elect to use you may or may not have to cut back the hook guide. In this demostration I am using a Gamakatsu SC15 size 4. I have removed approximately 1/4-inch from the hook guide.

Your tube fly is complete! The length of this fly is a hair (no pun intended) over 2-inches.

Again, this is a very simple and quick tube fly to tie. With a little practice you should be able to complete one in under 5-minutes!

For coho or searun cutthroat I have made a habit of adding stick on eyes to the cones. To secure them you can either apply a small drop of super glue to the adhesive back with a bodkin and then apply, or sticking the eyes to the cones and covering them with a thin coat of Liquid Fusion. There are cones available with the eyes are preset (called Cross-eyes). Unfortunately the smallest size available is 1/4-inch, but it takes the inconvience of placing your own eyes on!

I realize obtaining australian sheep is very difficult, but if you have read this far, I'll be giving a rather large piece away here shortly. You'll have to stay tuned..

Enjoy!

South Sound Shrimp

2012-02-02T22:13:00.000-08:00

Where do a lot of fly anglers fish when the rivers are high and dirty from the winter rains? Those of us that live in the Puget Sound region of Washington State usually head to the salt to chase sea run cutthroat and/or juvenile coho salmon.

The South Sound Shrimp is one killer pattern. It does a pretty decent job of representing both amphipods and euphasids which are a primary food source for coho during the winter months. I typically tie this pattern on the larger side so fish can locate it amidst the millions of naturals traveling with the current, and the Gamakatsu SC15 (#6) seems to be the perfect hook and size for this approach. If the fish are not responding to the larger size it usually means the fish are being selective, and therefore, I tie on a smaller size.

The South Sound Shrimp may look like a complicated pattern to tie, but rest assured, it is not. However, let me add a couple of helpful hints. First, the monofilament eyes are not necessary for this pattern. The fish will still take it. However, if you want to skip making or buying prepackaged eyes, a black fine tip Sharpie pen can be used to mark a couple of eyes after the Liquid Fusion has dried. Secondly, if you decide to make your eyes like I have, after you have both in place, apply a drop of super glue to the thread wraps. This will secure the eyes in place and prevent them for rolling around the hook shank. Lastly, to save a lot of time at the bench, I will usually tie a few dozen before applying the Liquid Fusion over the Mirage tinsel.

Materials (in order of tying sequence)

Hook: Gamakatsu SC15 (#6)(or choice)
Thread: White UTC 70
Eyes: 10# Maxima Ultra Green, tips melted and dipped in black vinyl jig paint (or prepackaged eyes)
Tail: A small pinch of body dubbing
Antennae: Two strands of pearl/white Baitfish Emulator
Carapace: Mirage tinsel
Body: 50/50 mixture Hareline's Ice Dubbing and STS Trilobal (Pictured is 50% pink Ice Dubbing and 50% White STS Trilobal)
Rib: UNI-mono, clear/fine, size 4m

Step 1:

Start thread behind the eye and wrap to the hook bend.

Step 2:

Length - position the eyes just inside the hook bend with tight wraps of thread. Apply a drop of super glue. The waste ends or cut at approximately the middle of the hook shank. This will help create a shrimp-like hump.

Top view

Step 3:

Collect a small tuft (or pinch) of dubbing and tie in a "tail." "Tail" is equal to one hook length.

Step 4:

Select two strands of Baitfish Emulator (Krystal Flash may be subsituted) and tie in over the top of the "tail."

Step 5:

Tie Mirage tinsel forward over the hook eye. Note the tapered appearance starting to form.

Step 6:

Tie in UNI-mono just behind the hookeye and wind thread to the rear of the body. This will be the thread's position for dubbing the body.

Dub body all the way to the hook eye. Taper body slightly larger at the rear and thin towards the hook eye.

Step 7:

Pull Mirage tinsel over the back of the body and secure with UNI-mono ribbing. Wind ribbing with larger segments appearing towards the rear of the hook and narrow segments appearing towards the hook eye. Secure ribbing with thread and then whip finish. Cut the carapace at a length even with the hook bend.

Brush and pick out dubbing from the under body. This should give the fly it's shrimpy appearance.

Top view

Step 8:

Apply a coat of Liquid Fusion or 5-minute epoxy over the carapace. Finished!

The color shades are limitless. Pinks, oranges, and olives will be the most productive. Also give all white dubbing with pale pink or orange thread a try!

Bucktail Coachman

2012-01-29T19:31:00.000-08:00

I am going to finish out the month with one last "oldie, but goodie" steelhead fly- the Bucktail Coachman. Never underestimate the power of peacock herl! This fly still pumps out a lot of steelhead for those that tie it on regularly. When tied in smaller sizes the Bucktail Coachman is a sure bet on our eastside rivers such as the Methow and a favorite of mine in the late summer on the Kalama.

Materials

Hook: Choice (Pictured is an Alec Jackson steelhead iron)
Tag: (Optional) Fine gold Lagartun tinsel (Original did not have a tag,)
Tag: Red silk floss (Originally red hackle fibers)
Rib: (Optional) Fine gold wire
Body: Peacock herl
Hackle: Brown hen
Wing: White Australian sheep (Originally bucktail)

Step 1:

Start thread on return wire loop and wind down hook shank just past the halfway point. Wrap tag with 4 to 6 turns of tinsel. The end of the tag should be in a vertical alignment with the hook point.

Step 2:

Tie in floss tail. The length of the tail should be just past the hook bend.

Step 3:

Tie in gold wire under the hook shank. The wire should be secured in approximately the 7 o'clock position (near side).

Step 4:

Tie in 3 to 5 peacock herls and wrap forward.

Step 5:

Wind rib forward with 5 counterwraps.

Step 6:

Tie in and lock brown hen hackle. Length of hackle should extend just to the hook point or a little past it.

Take 2 or 3 turns of hackle.

Step 7:

Tie in wing. Length extends to the bend or slightly past it. Apply two coats of thin head cement and one "finisher."

I am sure someone is going to ask.... "Where did you come across the Australian sheep? I am very fortunate to work in the auto industry. Some time ago I received and call from a lady that wanted to come to our dealership and take measurements of seats in the new Honda Pilot for seat covers. I simply asked if there was any scraps laying around... the rest is history! The stuff is some of the most "wispy" winging material I have ever used. It can be a wee bit of the pain to tie because of it's fine nature, but it moves in the water. I use it mainly on smaller size 5 and 7 flies.

Next month I will be showcasing some saltwater flies for our Northwest waters! Many of the flies are of my own design. From salmon to searun cutthroat, I am sure you will enjoy reading the blog. In fact, I hope you tie and fish them!

See you on the water!

Simple Prawn Tube Fly

2012-01-22T22:34:00.000-08:00

I was unpacking materials after yesterday's tying demo at the Gig Harbor Fly Shop and noticed a small piece of pink finn raccoon zonker strip in my hand. Not only did this prompt me to start getting "a list of things I need" going, but I thought, "What in the hell am I going to do with this little strip?" Normally, I would have utlized it for winging material, but I have plenty of flies with pink wings already. What to do?

My gear friends do very well on large, late winter Olympic Peninsula steelhead using pink worms; which sparked me to tie up a simple leech pattern instead of using rabbit strips. After I tied the first collar in I saw more prawn features than leech and went with the thought.

There's a lot of potential in this style. I am going to tinker with this idea some more. Do you think she'll hunt just fine like this?

I'll keep you folks posted.

Materials

Tube: Choice (I am tying on a Pro Tubefly System's Large 40/40mm)
Thread: 6/0 Euro thread. Color to match.
Tail: Finn raccoon zonker strip with two strands of Mirage Flashabou tied in at the sides.
Body: The body is tied in two segments. First a collar of finn raccoon spun in a dubbing loop, followed by a few turns of longer pheasant tippets. Rubbers legs were then tied in. The collar and tippets steps are repeated. Four strands of Mirage Flashabou were next, then finished with two golden pheasant flanks feather tied low over the body.
Wing: Two golden pheasant flank feather tied low over the body
Step 1:

Firmly place tube on needle (or mandrel). Add weigthed saucer or drop weight on tube. Secure weight in place with turns of thread. Cut a half inch to three quarters inch piece of finn raccoon from zonker strip. Tie in place with firm wraps. Tie in two strand of Mirage Flashabou on wach side of the tail. Place a drop or two of thin cement on wraps.

Step 2:

Form a dubbing loop and heavily wax thread. Cut approximately 1-inch of finn raccoon from the hide/strip. Place in dubbing loop and spread the fur out covering approximately 2-inches of thread/loop. The end of the guard hairs should extend to approximately two-thirds length of the tail. Cut the butt section close to the thread. Spin and form a "hair chenille." I would recommend wetting your fingers, stroking the hair towards the rear of the tube while wraping.

Step 3:

Tie in a rather large golden pheasant tippet feater by the tip and wind forward.

Wrap forward.

Step 4:

Tie in rubber leg material. Trim excess however, do not cut to length yet.

Step 5:

Repeat steps 2 and 3.

Collar wrapped.

Golden pheasant tippets completed. Add four long strands of Mirage flashabou.

Step 6:

Select two golden pheasant flank feathers. Stack feather on top of one another and tie in low to the body. Whip finish.

(Top view)

Step 7:

Cut rubber legs even with the end (rear portion) of the tube. Cut Mirage Flashabou to the end of the tail's guard hairs.

Step 8:

Remove tube from needle (or mandrel). Cut front portion of the tube close to the head. Leave approximately 1/16 of an inch. With a lighter use the blue portion of the flame to melt (roll) the end of the tube.

Cut approximately 1/2-inch from the rear portion of the tube. Apply two coats of thin penetrating cement to the head followed by one "finishing" coat.

Rigged with hook.

Marabou Tube Fly

2012-01-20T00:29:00.000-08:00

If you needed a box full of winter steelhead patterns tied in a hurry, look no further than tying marabou tube flies- simplicity at it's best. Marabou is readily available, reasonably priced, and comes dyed in numerous colors. Once used for wings and tails, marabou is now used in host of tying techniques, including spey flies. When incorporated with various synthetics and materials, these flies are some of the most aesthetically pleasing creations in a steelhead fly box. What's more important than a box full of steelhead eye candy? Answer: marabou's effectiveness at catching the fish's attention; which, is nothing short of outstanding!

Materials

Tube: Choice (I am using Pro Tubefly System's Large 40/40mm)

Thread: 6/0

Shoulder: Weighted nickle plated saucer (www.speyco.net) Drops weights are available from Pro Tubefly Systems. Additional shoulder material is underfur from arctic fox. Color should be same as first color of marabou. However, some interesting color combinations have been devised with different shoulder colors.

Collar: One or more color(s) of marabou wrapped by tip. Additional facing collars of guinea and/or hackle may be added. Various colors of grizzly saddle hackles, ostrich, or small rubber leg material may be tied over the body for a different action and look. The sky is the limit!

Step 1:

Firmly insert tube on needle then add saucer or drop weight. If these are unavailable, a shouldler of dubbing or chenille should be built up into a ball.

Step 2:

Lock saucer or drop weight in place with a wraps of threads. Place a drop or two of this head cement over wraps.

Step 3:

Cut a small "bunch" of arctic fox from the tail. Remove all guard hairs and slightly thin out underfur with comb. Place underfur over the upper half of the tube and make a couple wraps of threads. Ensure underfur is spread 180-degrees on the top of the tube. Make couple of firm wraps to secure underfur in place. You can also dampen the fur with wet finger tips to manage hair.

Turn the tube tube over and repeat.

Cut away the butt section of the underfur. Add a drop or two of thin head cement. Comb hair out ensuring 360-degree coverage.

You should have this appearance. The shoulder area keeps the marabou for collapsing around the tube and provides a large silhouette.

Step 4:

Tie the first color of marabou in by the tip and lock in place by bringing the tip back over the shoulder.

Slightly dampen marabou with finger tips. This will manage the fibers while wrapping.. Make three to five wraps around the tube and secure.

Step 5:

Tie in 3 to 5 strands of favorite flash material and lock in place. Mirage Flashabou is pictured.

Step 6:

Repeat step four with facing color of marabou. Once marabou is secured, tie in and lock a few more strand of flash material. Apply a drop or two of thin head cement.

Now would be a good time to mention bulk. I would recommend no more than a total of eight wraps of marabou regardless of the number of colors used (some will advocate even less). This will ensure the fibers breath and do not mat together when wet. If the marabou fibers are a little fuller when dry (before tying), lessen the amount of turns.

Step 7:

Place a cone or bead over the tube and firmly push in position.

Step 8:

Remove tube from the needle. Cut excess front tubing with a razor blade. Leave approximately 1/16" (3mm) to the cone or bead. With a lighter's blue portion of the flame, melt (roll) back the tube. This will lock the cone or bead to the tube. Depending on the length of the marabou you may also cut away a portion of the aft tube section.

Instead of buying expensive fly boxes specifically designed for tube flies that only hold a few flies, I find the larger slotted foam boxes more than adequate to store a large quanity. Simply add a hook to a tube and insert. These large boxes fit perfectly in to a back pack.

Color combinations are endless! Have fun, get creative, and hit the water!

The pink and red marabou tube tied step by step for the blog.

The Street Walker

2012-01-19T01:08:00.000-08:00

I definitely picked a good day to stay home- approximately 10-inches of snow dumped on Gig Harbor last night! It would be a great day to be on the water chasing winter steel, but it is a better day to stay off the roads and daydream about the warmth summer instead. Better check the summer fly boxes and see what needs to be replenished...

The Street Walker is a simple, unassuming pattern from Gordon Nash that continually accounts for many steelhead each year.   Nash devised this pattern for Oregon's Deschutes River where it remains a staple.

The original Street Walker was tied on a nickle plated hook (Eagle Claw 1197N). Nash felt the nickle plating coupled with the Flashabou wing made the pattern a better "attactor."   Although strongly considered a summer pattern, don't underestimate the fly's effectiveness in the cold and clear water of winter where a slow presentation is required.

I wouldn't want to be on the Kalama River without a few Street Walker's in my box.  Purple seems to be a summer prerequisite on this beautiful river.

Materials

Hook: Choice (Nickle plated Alec Jackson #5 pictured)
Thread:  6/0 red, wine, black, or purple. (6/0 purple is pictured)
Tail: Purple silk floss (Originally purple hackle fibers)
Ribbing: Medium oval silver Lagartun
Body: Purple dubbing (Originally purple chenille) (Pictured is a custom mixture of 60-percent purple arctic fox under fur, 20-percent chopped purple Antron, and 20-percent chopped red Antron.
Hackle: Purple hackle fibers (I used chinese rooster) (Purple rabbit can be substuted)
Wing: Mirage Flashabou

Step 1:

Start thread just behind the eye. Tie in floss and wrap/secure thread down the hook shank. Stopping point is equal vertically to the hook point. Cut tail slightly longer than normal.

Step 2:

Tie in tinsel and secure with firm thread wraps.

Step 3:

Dub body using standard dubbing technique.

Pick out dubbing for a "buggy" appearance. I use velcro on a popsicle stick to roughen up the dubbing.

Step 4:

Rib body with five firm yet even and incremental turns of tinsel.

Pick out or roughen up the dubbing again.

Step 5:

Select a chinese rooster feather with a thin stem and tie in by the tip with two turns of thread. The length of hackle is a personal choice, but should look proportionate to the overall fly. Anywhere between three quarters of the body length to the hook point is sufficient. Double hackle fibers and take two to four turns.

To aid in tying a small head, secure the hackle with two turns of thread forward then fold stem to the rear and lock it in place with two more turns. Trim tip.

Take 2 to 4 turns of hackle.

To secure feather utilize the same as the tie in- two wraps to pinch the feather against the hook shank, fold feather back, and take two more turns of thread. Note in the picture above how little bulk there is after cutting the feather.

Step 6:

Take 3 to 5 strands of Mirage Flashabou and slightly wet them. This will help manage the strands during this step. Secure strands under a wrap of thread by taking the strands under the shank and bringing them over the top (The floss technique on the Green Butt Purple Peril.). Once strands are in place take one firm turn of thread over of the strands behind the first wrap. While still holding the bobbin tightly bring the strands back over the body and take two turns forward. Next, whip finish with four turns wrapping to the rear. Trim thread. You will have a nice, neat, and small head.
Slightly pull wing over back and cut to length o the hook bend.

Step 7:

Apply two coats of thin penetrating head cement and one coat of "finisher." It is important to allow each coat of thin cement to dry before apply the final coat.

I bet you'll catch a fish with this pattern, but you have to tie a few and get them wet!

Hope to see you on the water. If not, you can always find me on Facebook- "The Benchside Fly Tyer."

Golden Demon - Dubbed Body

2012-01-16T18:02:00.000-08:00

The term "Demon," referring to fly patterns, is associated with English and Scottish tandem sea trout patterns which were tied on tandem hooks. The original Golden Demon came about from a mixing of New Zealand's British patterns and most likely had a wing of bronze mallard to compliment the orange hackle. It is not known if the original Golden Demon was tied on tandem hooks, but if the legendary Zane Gray wouldn't have brought the Golden Demon from New Zealand to Oregon's Rogue River we might not have had such a wonderful series of patterns to fish. The Golden Demon is just one of three within the popular Demon series that have lasted the test of time. Others include the Black Demon and Cooper Demon with many variations, such as the Black Demon #2, which featured a black floss body ribbed with silver tinsel, and the Deschutes Demon with it's orange hackle fiber tail and collar.

The Golden Demon, as we've come to know it, was normally tied with a pheasant crest feather for the tail, gold tinsel for the body, orange hackle, and natural brown bucktail for the wing (or bronze mallard). The only real change I note with today's tiers is the wing material. Most of us have subsituted the bucktail with a softer dyed material from various fox tails or squirrel tail. My personal choice for the wing is arctic fox. It possesses wonderful movement in the water and ties compact for small heads to finish flies.

Although I really like the pattern in it's original form, I wanted something a little more "buggy" and somber while retaining the coloration of brown, orange and gold tinsel. To do this, I dubbed over the gold tinsel body with gold SLF.

Materials

Hook: Choice (Pictured is Alec Jacson heavy wire #3)
Tag: Small flat gold Lagartun tinsel
Tail: Golden pheasant crest
Ribbing: Medium flat gold Lagartun
Body: Gold SLF
Hackle/Collar: Orangr rabbit
Wing: Fiery brown arctic fox

Step 1:

Start threat just behind the eye and wind down shank. Tie in tag material and make 3 to 5 turns down the hook shank and return. The end of the tag should be directly in vertical alignment with the hook point. Secure with flat wraps of thread.

Step 2:

This next step is for my working flies. Display flies required a slightly different approach when tying in pheasant crest; which, I'll cover at a later time.

Remove excess from the bottom of a golden pheasant crest feather. Lightly flatten stem at the tie in point with needle nose pliers. Tie in crest feather with a couple of softer thread wraps. Checking for length and position. If the length is slightly long, you can simply pull the stem gently back towards the eye. Trust me.... this step is going to take some practice, and it requires preparing (soaking) the crest before tying. Unfortunately, not all crests tie in nicely off the skin.

Step 3:

Tie is Ribbing. Tie in position is approximately 5 o-clock on the hook shank.

Step 4:

Apply dubbing to thread. Once dubbing is on the thread, make a dubbing loop by bringing the bobbin over the hook shank. Spin tightly, but over excessively. The thread should be hidden. Wind the dubbing forward. You can pick out dubbing for a "buggy" appearance.

Velcro on a popsicle stick does a great job of "bugging up" dubbing.

Step 5:

Bring ribbing forward in four or five firm and even incremental turns. Remember, you want to try and bury the ribbing to prevent slipping.

"Bugged" the body again.

Step 6:

Make a dubbing loop and apply a collar of orange rabbit.

Step 7:

Add arctic fox wing. Apply two coats of thin penetrating cement and a final coat of "finisher."

Enjoy!

Royal Coachman

2012-01-15T16:40:00.000-08:00

Ponder this question for a moment. Are there any other patterns that has enjoyed the success of the Royal Coachman? In one form or another the Royal Coachman has been tied and fished for nearly a century and two score! Simply amazing. The pattern is synonymous with fly fishing. It was certainly one of the first patterns I caught trout on. How about you?

The first Royal Coachman was tied by professional fly dresser John Haily in 1878. The abbreviated story is told that a gentleman ask Haily to tie extra strong Coachmen. Hailey in turn added a band of red silk to the peacock to keep the body from fraying and added barred woodduck for the tail. A sample of the fly was sent to the Orvis family. A few evenings later they were "disputing the fly question." One of the present party members said: "What can you do? Here is a fly intended to be a Coachman, yet it is not the true Coachman; it is quite unlike it, and what can you call it?" Mr. L. C. Orvis, brother of Mr. Charles Orvis, who was present, said: "Oh, that is easy enough; call it the Royal Coachman, it is so finely dressed!" (1)

Something magical happens when flies are tied and fished with peacock incorporated into the pattern. They are amazingly beautiful to the human eye and hypnotize fish when wet. If you take a look at a lot of trout flies that have endured the test of time many incorporate peacock. There is even a well known pattern that almost became banned due to it's success- the Alexandra. Let's tie a steelhead fly which possesses both elegance and grace, the Royal Coachman steelhead style!

Materials

Hook: Choice (Pictured is an Alec Jackson Steelhead Iron)
Thread: White UTC 140 and Black 6/0 Euro thread
Tag: (Optional) Small flat gold Lagartun
Tail: Golden pheasant tippet fiber
Ribbing: (Optional) Fine gold wire
Body: Peacock herl and red silk floss
Hackle: Coachman brown hen hackle
Wing: Finn raccoon under fur with shorter guard hairs

Step 1:

Start thread just behind the eye to close returning wire loop. Flatten thread and wrap back just forward of the hook point- room enough for a tag. Wrap a tag (3 to 5 turns) of small flat gold tinsel. The end of the tag should be aligned vertically with the hook point. Be sure to keep all thread wraps flat for the next few steps.

Step 2:

Select a golden pheasant tippet feather appropriate for the hook size. You'll want a feather that will measure proportionately from the tie in point to the end of the fibers. (Notice the picture below. The middle black bar segment is in equal increments for and to the tie in point to the end of the fibers. This is one sign of a well porportioned fly.) In order to get equal coloration of orange on both sides of the tail clip the center section of the stem away. You should have a "V" appearance on the rest of the feather. The next step will be leaving the first 5 fibers on each side of the stem and removing the excess below these fibers away. Then carefully fold over one side of the fibers directly over the top of the other side. Then simply stripe the fibers from the stem and tie in. Wrap thread forward keeping thread flat. Additionally, remember those professional looking porportions for the tail.

Step 3:
Tie in fine gold wire. The tie point is directly behind (if not slighty touching) the point of the return wire loop. Normally the ribbing would be tied in on the far side of the hook, but because we are going to counterwrap the ribbing it is tied in on the near side. Wind close flat thread wrap back to the tag area. There will be a slight hump, but don't worry, this will be covered by a section of peacock herl.

Step 4:

Select two "juicy" herls close to the eye. Herl just below the eye is where you can find the thickest and strongest stems. Clip away about an inch from the butt setion. This is where the herl starts to soften yet is still quite strong. Tie in by the butts.

Most tyers prefer to place the herl in a dubbing loop at this point. This will definitely make the herl segments stronger, but we are going to counterwrap the entire body with fine gold wire saving a little time.

Wrap herl clockwise (over to under) and form a section (or ball). While I haven't seen anything specific on the body porportions for a Royal Coachman, I like to keep it as close to 25/50/25. In other words, 25-percent of the body is peacock herl, 50-percent is red silk, and the remaining 25-percent is peacock herl. You'll have to "eyeball" these porportions while completing the body section.
Another note to keep in mind is you should have two turns of ribbing through each "peacock ball."

Secure the herl with flat wraps of thread forward to the returning wire loop. This will keep the "red band" section flat for the floss. Flat and clean wraps of floss is yet another sign of a well tied fly.

Tie in red floss. Once floss is tied in secure change over to black thread. The black thread can be used to secure the white thread.

Wrap floss in slightly firm yet flat wraps. You should have very little overlapping. Notice center section is flat and clean looking.

Tie in and complete forward section of peacock herl like the rear section.

Step 5:

Bring the ribbing forward by counterwrapping in even increments. Ideally you get two complete turns over each peacock herl ball. This will securely lock it in place.

Step 6:

Select a coachman brown hen hackle. (Substitute a normal brown hackle if needed. The fish don't care!) The hackle fibers should extend just forward of the hook point. Tie in by the tip, fold, or double the hackle fibers, and take 2 or 3 turns. Notice I have secure the hackle with minimal thread wraps. This is the foundation of a small head.

Step 7:

Cut a small portion of finn raccoon from the hide. Remove the longer guard hairs. Cut butt section to appropriate length and secure. Finish wrapping head with minimal thread wraps. Apply two coats of very thin head cement followed by one coat of "finisher (thicker cement)."

The million dollar question... Would you fish this fly?

End note:

(1) Taken from Mary Orvis Marbury's, Favorite Flies and Their Histories (1892)

Del Cooper

2012-01-14T19:08:00.000-08:00

Who's Del Cooper? Beats me. However, I do know the killer purple and red combination of the Del Cooper fly comes from the late Mike Kennedy. Unlike many of Kennedy's flies, there is very little information on the Del Cooper to share. Perhaps due to the pattern having a very small following throughout the years or a nearly identical pattern - Surgeon General - gained favor with it flourescent hackle and guinea throat. I can only assume at this point it's popularity was reached in the late 1960's to mid 1970's prior to the Surgeon General. Today, I have no problem tying this fly on to the end of my leader. In fact it is yet another of my Top 10 flies I wouldn't want to be without. I've enjoyed tremendous winter and summer success on the Cowlitz and Wynoochie Rivers with this pattern.

Like many of the steelhead flies I tie this one is bastardized this one too. There are several materials a tyer could replace at any given step (as you'll see). Yet I feel as long as the tail and hackle is red (or fl. red), the body is purple, and the wing is white- it's a Del Cooper.

Materials:

Hook: Choice (Alec Jackson is pictured)
Thread: 6/0 Euro black
Tag: Flat silver tinsel (Lagartun)
Tail: Flourescent red rabbit with guard hairs (Originally red hackle fibers)
Body: Custom blend - 60-percent midnight blue arctic fox underfur 40-percent deep purple Antron (Absolutely gorgeous) (Original body is purple wool)
Rib: Purple holographic mylar and silver oval tinsel (Original called for narrow silver tinsel)
Hackle: (Collar in this case) Flourescent red rabbit spun in a dubbing loop (Originally red hackle fibers
Wing: Finn raccoon underfur with smaller guard hairs (Originally white bucktail)

Step 1:

Start thread just behind the eye and secure returning loop. Tie in small flat silver tinsel and wrap tag.

Step 2:

Cut a small amount of rabbit from a hide or strip. Remove some of the underfur to reduce bulk. Tie the rabbit directly on top of the shank. The tips should extend slightly past the hook bend.

Step 3:

Tie purple holographic tinsel underneath the hook shank and then tie small oval silver tinsel to the far side of the hook shank.

Step 4:

Dub body. I dub all my steelhead fly bodies in a dubbing loop for an extra solid body. To give the body a tight yet slightly buggy appearance I first wax the thread and apply dubbing to the thread in a taper. Once I am happy with the dubbing appearance I'll then double the thread over making the dubbing loop. The next step is to spin, but not excessively tight- just enough to hide the thread.

Step 5:

Firmly wrap the purple holographic tinsel forward first followed by the small oval tinsel. The oval tinsel should be wrapped immediately in front of the mylar without any spacing. (It is hard to do, but if the body was dubbed in smooth, close and even increments, without a lot of overlapping, the tinsels with lay perfect! Takes some practice!) Tip: Always use good firm wraps when using tinsels. Mylars are a little diffiuclt to master because of the tendency to stretch, but good metal tinsels can be really cranked down on. The trick is not to bury the tinsels in the dubbing - they should be solidly visible - rather secure enough to prevent slipping.

Step 6:

Spin a dubbing loop of flourescent red rabbit. Again, remove some of the underfur to prevent too much bulk. Three turns is generally plenty- depending on the quality of hair or amount of underfur. (Rabbit collars always appear to make the fly looked overdressed, but when the hair is wet, it slims down like marabou. If the fly looks bulky streamside you can always do some discreet plunking or trimming.

Step 7:

Tie in finn raccoon under fur and secure with minimal wraps. Apply two coats of very thin head cement and one coat of "finisher."

A different look. Red guinea for the tail and also added in at the collar. Arctic fox for the wing. I also dubbed a very shaggy body for winter fishing.

Enjoy!

The Copper Demon

2012-01-13T18:53:00.000-08:00

The first of the popular "demon" patterns first came to the steelheading world in the early 1930's when Zane Grey returned with the Golden Demon from a trip to New Zealand. He introduced the pattern to steelhead on Oregon's Rogue River. The rest, shall we say, is history...

In researching this pattern for the blog I couldn't find a single reference other than the pattern recipe in Trey Combs, Steelhead Fly Fishing and Flies, 1976. Is it possible or even safe to assume that the Copper Demon came to fruition around the same time as C. Jim Pray's Black Demon and Silver Demon (circa 1935)? In fact, I couldn't even find the originator's name to give credit to one of my favorite flies! (If any of my reader's happen to know or could point me in the correct direction I would be forever grateful.)

I am continuing with a few more hairwing patterns this month. Not only are these patterns beautiful, easy and quick to tie, but they offer a look at the past - something I feel most of us shouldn't forget - tradition! Above all, hairwings are still effective- as long as you have confidence in fishing with them.

The Copper Demon has been one of my most productive flies, and it is another pattern that falls under my "Top 10." It produces superbly in the fall and winter when the water has a slight amount of color and when all other patterns fail. I especially like to fish the Copper Demon behind someone in the run. It never seems to.

Materials

Hook: Choice (picutred is an Alec Jackson)
Thread: Black 6/0 Euro thread
Tail: Orange floss (originally a tuft of hot orange marabou)
Body: Copper diamond braid (originally copper tinsel)
Hackle: Orange/black Jailhouse rabbit followed by two turns of bronze mallard (originally hot orange hackle)
Wing: Hot orange finn raccoon underfur (Originally hot orange polar bear)

Step 1:

Place hook in vise and start thread just behind the eye. Tie in orange floss and make firm thread wraps back towards the hook bend. Once thread is even with the hook point wind thread back to starting point. Cut floss. I like to make floss tails a slightly longer than normal.

Step 2:

Tie in copper daimond braid just behind the point of the return loop. Make firm wraps to secure the braid as you did for the floss tail. Once secure, cover the wraps of thread with a nice coat of head cement.

Step 3:

Once the head cement becomes slighty tacky wrap diamond braid forward. The head cement will penetrate the braid and reinforce it to keep it from unravelling after a fish. Additionally, I have wrapped a slight taper to the body by keeping the diamond braid flat during the wrapping process. While keeping the braid flat the rear wraps are made as close as possible to the previous. As the wraps are continued forward up the hook shank, wraps are then made overlapping the previous wraps with greater overlapping of material the closer to the eye.

Step 4:

Form a dubbing loop and spin rabbit into a chenille-like material. Take 3 to 4 turns of rabbit around the shank and secure. The overall length of the rabbit should be just shorter than the body.

Step 5:

Tie in bronze mallard by the tip.

Fold bronze mallard over and take two wraps. I like the length of the bronze mallard to extent to the hook point or slightly longer.

Step 6:

Cut a small amount of orange finn raccoon from the hide and remove all guard hairs. A small amount goes a long ways! Tie in and secure. Apply a couple coats of head cement.

I really like finn raccoon underfur. It slims down wonderfully and moves like nothing else! Couple this with the floss tail and rabbit collar you have one great steelhead fly! Tie up a few and give 'em a go. I feel you'll be pleasantly surprised.

The Silver Ant

2012-01-05T10:46:00.000-08:00

There are so few flies that have lasted the test of time they fall into the category of "forgotten flies." However, there are perhaps two dozen fly patterns still in use by veteran steelheaders today. One particular fly, the Silver Ant, designed by I.R. "Russ" Tower on Oregon's Rogue River over 80-years ago, remains a staple for many steelheaders that love to swing traditional patterns. If you ever decide to have a fly box full of traditional hair wing flies the Silver Ant has my strongest recommendation for inclusion.

The Silver Ant was traditionally tied on small double hooks with the wings set upright and divided. Today, there are so few Pacific Northwest waters that allow two hooks, I will be tying this pattern on a single. Additionally, I will be substituting the black chenille butt with ostrich, the black hackle with rabbit, and the bucktail wing with arctic fox.

Tying techniques shown are tying an ostrich butt and tying oval tinsel for a body.

Materials

Hook: Choice (Pictured is Alec Jackson 1.5)

Thread: White 140 denier UTC and black 6/0 Euro thread

Tail: Red hackle fibers

Butt: Black ostrich (originally black chenille)

Body: Medium oval silver tinsel (Lagartun)

Hackle: Black rabbit spun in a dubbing loop (Originally black hackle)

Wing: White arctic fox (Originally white bucktail)

Step 1

Start white thread near the end of the returning wire loop on hook (reference point). As you near the hook point flatten the thread wraps. The last wrap should be inline with the hook point. (The hook and camera is slightly angled in the picture.) The purpose of using the white UTC thread is two-fold. (1) it lays extremely flat for smooth tie in areas and material transitions, and (2) hides the tinsels wraps that are less than perfect. Threads of different colors will show through if the wraps are not close and tight together.

Step 2

Remove a small bunch of red fibers from the stem of a chinese rooster neck. Tie in the fibers with flat wraps of thread. The last securing wrap should be even with the hook point (pictured). The length of the tips should extend just past the hook bend. Note: stroking the tips of the fibers at an angle will align the tips perfectly. When the tips are aligned grasp the tips, gentle pull downward, and the fibers will come off the stem.

Step 3

Select an ostrich herl. The toughest/strongest herl will always be towards the top of the stem. To properly tie in an ostrich herl strip the bottom portion of fibers away from the stem. Tie in as pictured. Using this technique will allow the herl to turn and flatten allowing the fibers to stand straight up after the first turn. Also note there might be a slight curvature to the fibers. If this is the case, tie the herl strip in with the curvature facing the hook bend.

Step 4

Take 5 to 7 close turns of herl and secure with flat thread wraps.

Step 5

Once herl is trimmed continue wrapping thread foward to the reference point (pictured). Tie in oval silver tinsel at reference point and secure with several tight but even wraps of thread to the herl and back to the starting point.

Step 6

Wrap tinsel forward. Wraps should be tight and as close together as possible without over lapping and remain flat without twisting. Secure with tight wraps at reference point.

Step 7

Make dubbing loop and wax the thread heavily.

Step 8

Cut rabbit from the hide and place sections in the loop. Length is personal choice, but I like to extend the hair to the ostrich herl. For best results remove some of the underfur before placing in loop and trim butt ends as close as possible to loop before spinning. This will reduce bulk in the thread area.

Step 9

Spin rabbit to a tight chenille-like material. Do not over spin rabbit (telltale sign of over spinning is the thread wanted to double over itself). You may need to pick out any trapped rabbit hairs with a bodkin. Dampen and stroke hair to the rear. Wrap forward with close wraps.

Step 10

If you have applied the right amount of rabbit in the loop you should finish directly at the reference point (the very first step- starting the thread on the returning wire loop). To secure loop take three turns of thread forward and move dubbing twirler towards the bend of the hook then the wrap over the loop end. This will lock the loop in place. Trim thread. This is a good time to brush the rabbit hairs to the rear as it is drying. You may find a few longer or miss placed guard hairs... Simple grab the end and pluck them out. This will give the "hackle" a nice even appearance.

Step 11

Follow the steps for measuring and securing the wing as published with the Green Butt Purple Peril (click here). (If the instruction are confusing I'll post pictures). Here's your finished Silver Ant!

The Green Butt Purple Peril

2012-01-04T20:07:00.000-08:00

Multi-colored four to six inch leech and prawns, intruders, egg, articulated, and rubber-legged squid patterns... What happened to anglers using traditional hair wing patterns- the forgotten flies, if I may? It seems everytime I see another angler on the river he or she is armed with the latest and greatest 4-inch super internet pattern. Hell, I am guilty too, but I still have a soft spot for the patterns that have stood the test of decades. When I tie one of these "golden oldies" on it makes wonder what steelheading with a fly rod would have been like 50-plus years ago... Yes, they are still effective as the day they were devised by their steelheading legends.

To start the New Year out let's wind the clock back to the late 1930's when Ken McCloud first tied the Purple Peril. Had it not been for an shipping mistake from Herter's, the premier sportsman's catalogue in those days, the Purple Peril may not have even been designed. Apparently, Ken asked his son George to order claret tying materials for Montreal patterns. When the mail arrived the materials were purple- not the claret as ordered. Ken decided to tie the flies with purple.. The Purple Peril was born.

The Purple Peril is perhaps one the most underrated flies, but a pattern you'll find in the fly box of the hardcore steelheader. In it's heyday it was probably fished a lot during summer through fall however, anytime water conditions are clear to slightly colored this pattern will be effective- including the winter months.

There are at least three dozen variations of the Purple Peril I have seen. I personally carry five different variations- three with different colored butt sections for various light and water conditions, a "Plain Jane" (original- no colored butt section), and a spey version.

Let's take a look at a Green Butt Purple Peril. A couple of techniques to gain from this pattern are tying in oval tinsel for a tip and floss tags. I also including a neat little dubbing packaging trick.

Materials

Hook: Choice (pictured is Alec Jackson 1.5)

Thread: White 140 Denier and Black 6/0 Euro

Tip: Small oval silver tinsel (I use Lagartun)

Tag (Butt): Flourescent green floss

Tail: Purple Floss (Original called for hackle fibers)

Body: Purple floss, wool, or dubbing (I am using purple SLF dubbing)

Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel (Lagartun)

Hackle: Purple guinea hen (Original called for purple hackle)

Wing: Fiery brown arctic fox (Original called for natural brown bucktail

Step 1

Start white UTC 140 thread on return wire loop (my starting point on the return wire loop will be referred to as a "reference point." This "reference point" is used as a guide to show starting and stopping points during different steps of the tying phase to keep the eye area free of materials). Wind to the rear stopping approximately 3/8-inch from hook point. Once thread has left the return wire loop ensure thread winds flat as pictured. Winding the thread flat at this point will set up for a smooth tie in of the tip and smooth underbody for the floss tag. The purpose of the white thread is to allow the flourescent green floss to stand out when wet.

Step 2

Using oval tinsel for a tip creates a small lip/barrier. Unlike flat tinsel, oval tinsel will keep the floss from sliding down the hook shank.

Tie in small oval silver tinsel directly under the shank yet slightly off center- moreso towards you. Keep the thread wraps flat.

Take two turns of thread back towards the eye.

Next, take three turns of tinsel. The first wrap is over the bare hook shank. After three turns of tinsel has been taken turn hook upside down if you have a rotary vise. Keep ahold of the tinsel. (Note: you can see the original tie in of the tinsel on the hook shank. Notice that is tied in under the shank, but away from centerline on the far side with the hook inverted.)

While holding the tinsel in the left hand, remove the two turns of thread with the bobbin. Secure the tinsel with two wraps of thread. Keep tension on the thread and run tinsel parallel with hook shank. Both the "tied in" and "tied off" portions are directly under the hook shank.

Tie off remaining section of tinsel. Remember to keep the thread flat. Notice how the tinsel runs parallel now?

Once you've completed covering your tinsel with flat thread wraps double check your work for any unusual lumps or humps. This area needs to be as smooth as possible for a professional looking floss butt.

The length of the butt section is a personal choice. I typically like to tie them about 1/4 or 1/3 of the total body length. In the above photo I intentionally over wrapped to nearly the halfway point. This will keep the wraps tight while I am preparing the floss.

Step 3

When using floss on my flies I personally like to remove the floss from the spool because I feel I have more control over the wraps utilizing my fingers. Pictured below I have removed approximately 5-inches of flourescent green floss from the spool. To keep a smooth tie in area take the floss and run it under the hook shank and between the thread, then bring the floss over the hook shank. This will trap the floss under the thread. Take a couple of thread wraps to secure.

Stroke the floss to flatten it out at the tie in point. Firmly (not too tight) wrap the floss as flat as possible to the tinsel and back to the tie in area. Unwind the original two thread wraps and then secure with a couple of thread wraps. Wrap thread towards the eye and take a couple of half hitches at the "reference point." Change over to black thread.

Step 4

Near the eye tie is a piece of purple floss for the tail. Wrap thread back to the eye area. Cut the tail to length- slightly past the bend of the hook

Step 5

Tie in silver medium oval tinsel at the reference point and the backside of the hook. Several thread wraps should be tight and secure tinsel not only to the backside of the hook shank but, all the way back to the butt section.

Step 6

Form a dubbing loop near the butt section and heavily wax.

Here's a neat little helpful tip for those of us that use a lot dubbing. Cut a 45-degree opening in a corner at the bottom of the package! You can remove the right amount of dubbing for each fly without a lot of waste!

Step 7

Spin dubbing and wrap forward to the reference point. For winter flies I tied them very shaggy. Summer flies are dressed thin.

Step 8

Tightly wrap oval tinsel over the body in evenly spaced segments. How many wraps depends on the fly or your creativity, but there seems to be an unwritten rule of five even wraps over a body. (If anyone knows for sure.... please let me know.) The key in wrapping tinsel is the even segments and tight wraps. You almost want to bury the tinsel in the dubbing. This will prevent it from slipping or moving. If the wrapping is near perfect the fifth wrap will fall right on top of the reference point!

Step 9

Tie in hackle. The original hackle came from a chinese rooster cape. I have elected to use purple guinea hen with one side of the stem stripped. Three turns of hackle is plenty.

Step 10

Select a nice bunch of fiery brown arctic fox (originally natural brown bucktail) and remove the underfur. Hand stack or place tips in a hair stacker. (I hand stack. I feel it looks more professional and doesn't give the "paint brush" appearance.) To measure the wing length place the hair over the tie in point. The tips of the wing should be about even with the bend of the hook or slightly shorter. Tie in the butt end to length and tie in. Make a couple of tight wraps and keep the length. If the length is too long, cut back the butt end again. Repeat as necessary to get the length right.

Now... how do we get a small head? Using the above measuring as a guideline we are going to have a little excess butt end showing after taking a few tight securing wraps. The trick is to tie the butt end a little longer, make 2 or 3 very tight wraps, and then while keeping the thread tight, slowly pull the wing back towards bend of the hook. The excess can then be trimmed with a razor blade or very sharp scissors. Additionally, only take enough wraps to cover the butt ends and to shape the head. I normally do not whip finish. Rather I apply a small amount of super glue on the thread and take a few more wraps. Once the super glue has dried, cut the thread, and then apply a very thin penetrating head cement. My personal choice for head cement is Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails (#800) extremely thinned down with polish thinner, followed by straight Sally Hansen (#800) as a finishing coat. Most of us guys are lost in the nail polish section at the local drug store so bring the significant other. The gals at the counter always get a kick when I mention what I am using the polish for!

Finished

Another with different portions. This time I intentionally made the butt section a little longer, used rabbit for the tail, flat silver tinsel, burnt schlappen for the hackle, and added jungle cock. Steelhead flies just don't like right without jungle cock!