Path Finder On Mystic Trail

. ..Lake Phoksundo, Phoksumdo........ “The Jewel Of Dolpo” ....

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 18:17:00 +0000

A brief information about Dolpo and Phoksundo....before starting our journey towards "The Jewel Of Dolpo"...........

Kagbeni, where I got the idea of this route a year before I got the idea on last year's trek to Mustang (2008) when I saw the small trail branching off near Kagbeni, leading up a mountain flank and soon disappearing. My curiosity grew even more by answers to my questions - 'it goes to Dolpo; very difficult and far away; no tourists'...........

The quest for distinctively unique single destination with unbounded diversity is accomplished with the extremely exceptional trip to DOLPA, the divine Mountain Kingdom at the foot of the Mighty Himalayas runs parallel to the image of the Shangri-la of Nepal in many aspects. It lures adventurers with promises of untouched natural splendour with immense fantasies. At the edge of the Tibetan Plateau in the Himalayan rain shadow lies Dolpo - the legendary hidden land closed for years to trekkers. Dolpo remains a truly isolated corner of Nepal: time has stood still here for centuries as the inhabitants of Tibetan stock continue to live, cultivate and trade the way they have done since time immemorial.

Lake Phoksundo is at such an high altitude and the water is so cold that no aquatic life is seen.Phoksundo Lake, the deepest lake in Nepal, offers stunning beauty. Considered sacrosanct by the Dopla locals, it is praised for its aquamarine greenish blue color.

Lake Phoksundo, Phoksumdo, or “the Jewel of Dolpo” as locals refer to it, is a high altitude lake famous for its aqua marine color. The lake is too high to support plant or animal life and retains a pristine and crystalline appearance. Formed by a landslade over 30,000 years ago, lake Phoksundo is over 150 km deep and has a 167m waterfall at its southern end. Surrounding the lake are pristine forest full of some of the world’s rarest wildlife, including the Tibetan Snow Leopard. Villages that sit near the lake are also home to an ancient blend of Tibetan.

Beautiful view of the Turquoise Phoksundo Lake.

Dolpo is known for it’s pristine beauty and rugged charm, where one can still have opportunity to meet the wonderful nomadic people with their amazing life style almost untouched and unexplored. The stunning Himalayas offer an endless variety of fascinating landscapes, incredible cultures of great people who are of Tibetan descent, follow the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. The thrilling views, the breathtaking harsh environment and mystical traditions of mythical Dolpo is well captured and immortalized in “Caravan-The Himalayas”, a feature film by Eric Valli ”.....Some Posters from Caravan....The Himalayas...to know more about the region itself..

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At an altitude of 5,000 meters in the Himalayas in the remote village of Dolpo, the elder leader Tinlé has just lost his oldest son who mysteriously died in the mountains. Accusing the young Karma for the death of his son, Tinlé refuses to let Karma lead the yak caravan with the salt loads. In this arid land, salt is sacred and a precious commodity to be exchanged for essential grains grown in the valley.

High Altitude Traverse in Nepal's North

The Himalayas offer an endless variety of landscapes, cultures and great people. This unbounded diversity makes it a destination you can visit over and over again. It even becomes more interesting and fascinating with every time you return. After trekking in central Nepal a few times I am now eager to explore its west, a relatively untouched area north of the Dhaulagiri massif between Dolpo and Mustang.

Map Of Dolpo Region....

According to legends the hidden land Be-yül was discovered by Padmasambhava, a famous Indian scholar who travelled through the Himalayas to spread Buddha?s teachings. It is assumed that people of Tibetan origin settled down in the area two thousand years ago. They had cultural and economical ties with Tibet and the Lo kingdom in the east. The kings of Lo governed it until the end of the 18th century. When the Gorkhas took control over Nepal, Dolpo gained larger autonomy because the influence of Mustang was reduced. But due to the isolation it suffered culturally and most likely also economically. When modern Nepal was founded, only little changed in Dolpo because the government in Kathmandu was far away and not very interested in the region.

Terrace Fields in Juphal.starting point is Juphal, a small village with an even smaller airstrip.

China's occupation of Tibet in the late 1950s made life even more difficult. All of sudden the winter grazing grounds were closed off, husbandry became very difficult because the meadows in the valleys in the south were not as good. The Khampas, armed Tibetan resistance fighters, settled down on the Nepali side of the border and launched skirmishes on the Chinese invaders from there. There was was not enough fertile land to supply all the people and their animals which were suddenly living in the area.

By Phoksundo Khola

We started at the end of August and had some expected post-monsoon rain, but this was rewarded by green fields and lush vegetation. Since it takes about 23 walking days (6-8 hours a day), make sure you are in good shape. You will spend most of the time above 3'500 metres and cross six passes above 5'000 m, but technically the hiking is easy.Upper Dolpo is difficult to reach and very arid. Few people live in the harsh climate. They are farmers, traders and shepherds - often all in one because this is the only way to survive. Agriculture on a large scale is impossible because fertile land is scarce. In the southern parts of Dolpo one finds a varied vegetation, farmers can plant a large variety of fruit, vegetables and grain. This contrast will probably have an effect on the culture and the people themselves, and the different landscapes will make our trip even more interesting.

This trek is divided in 5 segments in terms of writing...........

* Part 1: Nepalganj to Ringmo
* Part 2: Ringmo to Shey
* Part 3: Shey to Do Tarap
* Part 4: Do Tarap to Charkha
* Part 5: Charkha to Sangda
* Part 6: Sangda to Jomosom

Kids @ Ringmo......

Please note: I tried to make the description of the following three weeks as accurate and correct as possible. I received the information from locals, our guides or out of books. Undoubtedly, there will still be some mistakes for which I apologize.

Thanks to Jamie McGuinness , who helped preparations and found an experienced and relieable trekking agency.

Also many thanks to Dawa, Pasang, Meena, Sonam and the rest of the crew from Sherpa Society for running the whole trek perfectly.

WE STARTED FROM NEPALGANJ TOWARDS RINGMO AND THE JEWEL OF DOLPO......

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path..

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Tue, 29 Jun 2010 06:53:00 +0000

Journey on the way of Pandavas
DAY 3....

We Started our final journey from Chakrateerth to Satopanth Tal(Lake).Clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was amazing @ Sun rise,stunning... was also very bright.Looking like a 24 karet Gold peak...We were so much tempted to have as much as possible photos of both Balakun and Chaukhamba...

Balakun Just After Sunrise....

When we walked from Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal,It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters. Climbing diagonally up a rocky sharply inclined wall face, it took us about an hour to reach the top of the first ridge. Climbing down the precipice-like slope was very dangerous. From here the entire region of sheer glacier was visible.

Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment.

We watched crevasses in the valley. It was impossible to make out the way through the valley. Our able guide, Devendra Rana, along with his porters, worked a way down to the moraine or small rocks lying over old glacier. This work was done with an ice axe. The path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge and required careful maneuvering.

It took us about an hour to reach the top of this ridge.

Again we saw some footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions.

Pug Marks Of A Snow Leopard...

From here till Satopanth Tal we had to walk over the unseen glacier. At some places the glaciers was visible as the layer of boulders had moved away due to avalanches. We followed the route by the markings previously laid down of rocks placed vertically one on top of the other, at various places over the glacier.

path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge.

On our way to Satopanth lake we saw huge rock structures..Devendra showed us those structures and said it is called as Bhim Bar or Bhima's Gada...At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima’s release from earthly life....

It Is called Bhim bar Or Bhima's Gada...

The Path On Which We Walked..

We moved up slowly and steadily, one by one, negotiating dangerous crevasses. At last we saw the welcome flag at the top of a ridge. Below the flag on the other side of the ridge is Satopanth Tal. By this time we were all exhausted. Scarcity of oxygen had slowed us. The last 1 km was much tougher, as we were moving through avalanche zone.

Walking On Satopanth Glacier....Most dangerous Path...

Ultimately, one by one we came up at the bottom of the last ridge. Here the rocky soil was very slippery and the gradient of the ridge was also steep. Everyone kept calm and we succeeded in reaching the top of the ridge at 12 noon.On The way we saw an old lady walking towards Mana...We were utmost surprised to see an old lady walking alone on this path...For some time we were speechless...

An Old lady Alone Walking Towards Mana.

Walking On The Last Gradient Of The Ridge Was Also Steep.

Devendra is trying to have a short cut by crossing this small rivulet...

After three hours of hard trekking on the treacherous glacier we reached under the last ridge and could see the red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake. We simply dragged ourselves to the top.

Red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake

Here we had a magnificent view of the Lake: Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right, they are Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Satopanth (23,206 feet), Mt. Swargarohini (20507 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba I (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet).

clouded chaukhamba massif rising above satopant lake.As the name suggests Chaukhamba, means four pillars. The four peaks are situated at an average elevation of 7138 metres, 7088 metres, 6995 metres and 6854 metres respectively above mean sea level. .

The first thing that struck me squarely was the strange ethereal ambience of the lake. It had such calm and soothing effect; probably because it’s an achievement of hard labour or may be the legends, ultimately got me! But I had to admit, our suicidal efforts were amply rewarded. The perfectly triangle shaped lake at the base of the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak, surrounded by lofty mountains reflected an azure sky. A small green field in its eastern side, dotted with alpine flowers accentuates the harsh surrounding. As I feasted on the spellbinding scenery, for the first time I became aware of the complete lack of sound around it. It’s eerie! Except the sound of occasional avalanches that were coming down the Chaukhamba peak, as it is already mid-day and the snow on the peak has started to melt, coming down as huge avalanches, the silence was all encompassing.

We ran into him on the bank of Satopanth Tal (14300 fts) - a small triangular, almost inaccessible, glacial lake in the hidden depths of the Himalayas. Indeed, it is the right place for a vow of silence. According to the Skanda Purana, this silence is guarded by Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar - the holy trinity who sit in meditation on the vertices of the triangular lake. No-one dares to break this silence.

As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression. We offered worship, both silent personal prayers and puja to Lord Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar, breaking a coconut . Soon after the snowfall which began at 1:30 p.m. continued till late midnight.At Satopanth Tal there is a room which had been constructed by a pilgrim from the South. This room is still used by visiting sadhus and trekkers alike.

Sagas @ Satopanth Lake...

The sound of the avalanches – alike the sound of a thunder, only accentuates this all-embracing, all-pervading silences. The emerald green water of triangular lake mirrors the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak. The image has been repeatedly broken by the waves of the lake forming due to the pleasantly cold gentle breeze that wafted from the snow crested Chaukhamba peak. The broken image re-forms immediately only to be broken again.

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba.

I was resting on the grassy bank of the lake when Devendra Singh showed me a path towards the Chaukhamba I peak and told me, that was the path traversed by the Pancha Pandavs on their last journey to the heaven. He said, even today, ascetics who want to leave this painful world to enter the other world of supreme bliss, often take that path never to return
.

From the bank of the lake, I could see a clear path like trail leading to the peak of Chaukhamba. But as the sun rose high, avalanches after avalanches started to roll down that path. It’s definitely a sure path to the other world; whether that path goes to heaven or hell that I am not very sure.

It's not an ice cream,Head of Chaukhamba Massiff @ Satopanth lake.

A rare dragon cloud on mount Chaukhamba.

The clearness of the lake-water was surprising. It’s crystal clear. Standing on its bank, I could see almost its bottom. Legends has it, whenever something falls in the water, small birds would come flying and pick it up from the water. Some small grey birds were hopping around me on the bank of the Satopanth Lake.

Satopanth (left 7075m) and Chandra Parbat (right 6739m). Eastern part of the Western Garwhal Himal on the Satopanth Lake Trek, Uttaranchal, India.

As the evening descended, my silent ascetic came and sat beside me. It seemed that he is in a mood to talk. Immediately, I started to fire my questions. Smilingly he took up a pen and started to write down his answers in my diary.

I asked, ‘why did he come to this god forsaken place?’

He simply replied, ‘to meditate’.

‘But that can be done in ones home.’

He said, ‘yes. But you know, milk comes out only from the nipples of the cow and not from its horn or hoop.’

Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen

We talked about god, religion, spirituality, laws of nature, almost on every thing under the sun except on his person. He refused to answer any personal query; not even from where he came from. He had magnificent clarity of though, deep insight, strong opinion – a bit religious may be, but nevertheless strong belief backed by logical argument.

Swargarohini Base,Can you see the Stairs To Heven?Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen

At the end of it he asked me, ‘why did you come?’

I said, ‘to see and to experience this fantastic world of myth and reality; to see this breathtaking beauty.’

He said, ‘me too. But to see the mountain within the mountain; to see the tal

within the tal; to experience the world within this world of myth.’

Some small grey and blue birds were hopping around us.

The evening passed into a starry night, I have never seen so many stars in the night sky before and the night into a glorious dawn.

Our Tents near Chaukhamba and Balakun...

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba. Then started the fantastic colour changes on the snow. Initially pink, the colurs turned to shades of vermillion, red, orange, ochre and yellow until the sunlight shed its radiance on the entire region.

Mt.Chaukambha .. next to swargarohini.. scores have lost their lives trying to ascend this peak. Had more than 5 avalanches in one night.

Every one of us stood still in awe the half hour and more that nature revealed its finest hour of morning glory. We stayed at Satopanth Tal till 9 a.m. before we began our return trek to Badrinath via Mana.

Chaukhamba Masiff rising above Satopanth Lake.Reflection of Choukhamba III in Satopanth Taal's water

It was time to depart from this world of splendor and legend. As we clambered up the ridge, our silent ascetic stood on the bank of lake biding us farewell. I turned back to have a last look. I, certainly, will not be coming again. Seeing me turn back, he waived. I felt his gaze on me — full of compassion and tolerance, silently caressing me like the soft touch of a caring mother. Again something wailed inside me, and again I felt like crying aloud.

We did not know anything about him. Mortals like us are not comfortable with unanswered queries and unexplained phenomena. There were so many unanswered questions– thousands of it that were never going to be answered, smothered by the omnipotent silence. Perhaps he was right to take the vow of silence. This is certainly the right place for taking such a vow.

It is said, Bramha-Bishnu-Maheswar – the holiest of the Gods, the Holy Trinity, are in perpetual meditation on the three vertices of the triangular shaped Satopanth Tal (Lake). That’s why its ambience is so ethereal. Nobody dares to break the all-pervading cloak of silence around here.

||शुभम भवतु ||

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path.

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 18:43:00 +0000

. ........ Journey on the way of Pandavas .........

DAY......2

The Satopanth Lake, 25 kms from Badrinath, could be reached after a difficult trek of two-day with night rest at Lakshmiban and Chakratirtha. Caves in those stopovers are used as the night shelter. Around Badrinath every place is steeped in legends so are Lakshmi Van and Chakratirtha. It is said that Goddess Lakshmi ( goddess of wealth)and her husband Narayan ( the preserver) meditated in Lakshmiban and Chakratirtha respectively and while meditating Narayan kept his famous Sudarshan Chraka on the valley which depressed by the weight of that Chakra to form a beautiful round shaped meadow surrounded by lofty mountains.

Flora @ Chamtoli BUgyal...

It was still dark, around 5 in the morning, when I woke up. As I fell asleep around 8 in the night, an early rise was obvious. Even dog-tired souls just cannot sleep more than 9 hours. As I looked with some trepidation towards the dangerous trail that lay ahead that we have to traverse, the first few sunrays touched the snow crested peaks of Himalayas and the peaks erupted into a blaze. Stunned, I devour the sight — a prodigious fire on snow peaks. All of yesterdays’ hassles and hardships have turned into a beautiful gift.

Sun Rays Kissing The Himalayan Peaks @ Dawn...

Himalaya takes a lot but gives back plenty; one could not hold it in ones palm, it always overflows. These blessed mountains were so compactly filled with God's beauty of Sunshine....

Sun rays Kissing The Himalayan Peaks @ Dawn..

I felt Nature is the most thrifty thing in the world; she never wastes anything;she undergoes change, but there's no annihilation - the essence remains.The first act of awe,I was strucked with the beauty or wonder of Nature, was the first spiritual experience."

Fire Ablaze On The Himalayan peaks...

The most sad part of the trek. Prasad has to return back to Badrinath. Previous night he had severe breathing problem and his pulse was dropped to 60. He got fever also. In the morning we made the decision and he returned back and Me,Vishram,Sanjay,Vish,Ana ,Sunil stayed there to proceed further. Everybody was crying at that time.Our guides went with him to guide him up to the Vasudhara trail and after that he was about l return back and start for Chakrateerth.

Prasad and Devendra Rana Back To Vasudhara Falls..

This day was expected to be a hard day as we planned to cover the additional distance of the previous day's shortfall to reach Chakratirtha in the evening, as scheduled. As the valley is inside towering mountain walls, we had to wait for the sun to dry our tents. At nine a.m. Devendra came back and we walked along trackless paths and over large boulders.

This is path towards Banglung glacier....Boulders and Glaciers..

Clambering up the loose moraine, going two steps forward and sliding one step down, with a few water falls and snow peaks giving company; it is laborious and event less except a few land slides and rock falls that nearly killed us. But by that time, such happenings were ‘all in a days’ work’!

Pathless journey...

While approaching Lakshmi Van, just opposite the Banglung Glacier snout point at Alkapuri ,On the way Devendra Sing showed us a valley, high up on the mountain and said, “ O dekhiye Alakapuri”( See there is Alakapuri)”! Alakapuri, the abode of Kuber, the God of wealth, was immortalized by Kalidas – the great ancient poet, in his book of verse “Meghdutam..

The Alaknanda rises at the confluence and feet of the Satopanth and Bhagirath Kharak glaciers in Uttarakhand.opposite the snout point of Banglung Glacier..

Alaknanda Becomes Broad Here...On The left Bank...The Trees Are Laxmi Van...

At Lakshmi Van we saw Bhuj Plants that grow in the Himalayan region at altitudes over 10000 feet. In ancient days, the leaves of the bark of these plants were used for manuscripts.it is here Sahdev breathed his last..

Laxmi Van...Lakshmi-van. This is an amazing spot, believed to the place where goddess Lakshmi is supposed to have meditated.contains Bhurj Patra trees..

At Bandhar we got the first view of the Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier which emerges from Mt. Bhagirathi I, II & III and continues to meet the Banglung Glacier at Alkapuri. Mt. Bhagirathi I (22488 feet), II (21359 feet) & III (21169 feet) were visible from here. From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

(L to R) Bhagirathi II,III and I.Bhagirathi are the group of three high peaks namely Bhagirathi - I,II,III with the height of 6856,6512,6454 in garhwal himalayas.

Taking rest in between hopping over the bolders.That was a powerful stream we crossed.At Bandhar Nakul was released from his earthly life.

The Glacier Zone Begins.At Bandhar we got the first view of the Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier which emerges from Mt. Bhagirathi I, II & III and continues to meet the Banglung Glacier at Alkapuri.

By the time we reached Sahashradhara at 2:30 pm, the weather was rapidly deteriorating, as it is wont to do in the late afternoons. We decided to pitch our tents at the bank of a narrow stream. As it was not a proper camping site, the wind at this altitude of some 14,000 feet was harsh and biting cold. Most members were feeling the ill-affects of high altitude. The west face of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) was visible from here. From Badrinath we can view the East face.

Beautiful cloud formation from Neelkanth.

At Sahastradhara lots of streams were coming down and those were very powerful.Eventually, on the verge of collapse, we reached our destination. As we collapsed on the last ridge – the valley laying under us,Ana, my companion uttered a full sentence of the day, she was too busy to save his life. She said wearily, “Well, we are saved

Sahastradhara falls,15 kms from Mana.From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

Icy winds blew through the night and it was biting cold. As is often so at higher altitudes, we could not sleep properly. We awoke to the thick layer of fresh snow on the narrow stream beside which we pitched our tents. There were footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions

Sahastradhara falls,15 kms from Mana.From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

It was a clear morning and we were mesmerized by the spell-binding views of the snow capped peaks of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). As this place was behind Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) in the east, we had the same problem of not getting sun rays early in the morning. We also waited for the chilled wind to stop.At last,We started at 9 a.m.,climbing long distances over boulders, short of breath and stamina, keenly aware of the scarcity of oxygen in the air.We took 1.5 hours to cross 2 km. The most dangerous part I encountered during the trek.

We decided to cross the region over this knife ridge and that was a terrible decision.One side of this ridge(R) is the glacier zone and to the left is the valley...

We reached Chakratirtha at about 12 noon to snack on our supply of dry foods, hoping to continue upto Satopanth Tal, but some members reached after 1 p.m., so we decided to camp at Chakratirtha. The valley at 15,000 feet has a large grassland and we basked in the afternoon sun, here.

camp at Chakratirtha.here the great Yogi,Nar and Great Warrior breathed his last...

Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment. A small rivulet of about three feet wide divided the meadow in two halves. We witnessed terrifying avalanches off Mt. Satopanth (23206 feet) & Mt. Parvati and heard the gigantic sounds of glaciers breaking. Quite suddenly the sun vanished and it was entirely white, far in the distance. The snowfall which started at about 3 p.m. did not last long.

Sunset on Balakun.. Balakun Peak is located at the distance of 16 km from Badrinath. Balakun is situated north west to Badrinath. Balakun is situated between Bhagirathi Kharak glacier and Satopanth glacier.The peak is situated north east of Nilkanth peak. The Alaknanda river originates from below this peak by the melting of these two glaciers at an altitude of 3641 mts. The two glaciers rise from the eastern slopes of Chaukhamba (7140 mts) peak and wrapped around the Balakun peak..

At Chakrateertha, The Great yogi and The Great Warrior Arjun Breathed his last..At Chakrateerth only it is said that Arjun did penance for Lord Shiva before the Mahabharat war to have the great Pashupatastra...

We witnessed terrifying avalanches off Mt. Satopanth (23206 feet) & Mt. Parvati and heard the gigantic sounds of glaciers breaking. Quite suddenly the sun vanished and it was entirely white, far in the distance. The snowfall which started at about 3 p.m. did not last long. It is mount satopanth at sunset.

Next day morning clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was bright,Parvati peak was also visible.

Stunning Balakun(20040 feet)-After sunrise,Balakun.

Parvati Peak visible

We were now about to start our last climb towards the holy Satopanth Lake surrounded by lofty mountain from .Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal. It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters.An unknown power was dragging us towards the holy lake and we were walking in solitude,silence as no body wanted to ruin the Divine silence created by Nature.....We Walked Towards That Unseen,Divine Power.

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path...

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 14:50:00 +0000

.......... Journey on the way of Pandavas .........

DAY:1....

Finally On 6th September 2000 we were on our hazardous journey towards Satopanth Lake....Swargarohini....The Way Pandavas traveled....It was my dream to trek to the trail the Pandavas undertook to reach Heaven - a spiritual journey. it was the toughest trek of all - days and days on rocks/boulders/glaciers/ridges/moraines.....

Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right, they are Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Satopanth (23,206 feet), Mt. Swargarohini (20507 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba I (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression.

This was my dream destination from many years and was now thrilled to be on the way on my dream to reach my dream destination...though it was really toughest we gathered courage and strength to complete it..We reached @ Mana Again @ 8 a.m....Before we started ,we took tea in "India's last tea Shop" at Mana..At the end of mana each tourist stops to have tea at this last tea shop of India.chandra Sinh Badwal is running this tea shop from last 20 years and we can get many types of tea here...from common to herbal tea..

Last Tea Shop Of India...@ Mana...

I am giving here the description of this destination for those who have not read the first part of this path...Satopanth...Swargar ohini(Stairs to Heaven)...

According to Hindu mythology, Satopanth Tal is on the route taken by the Panch Pandavas on their Swarga Yatra. At various places their name remains as a memorial of this sacred journey. At the starting point at Mana, 3 km away from Badrinath, is the natural rock bridge, Bhima Pul. Here, Bhima is believed to have made the bridge over the river Saraswati so Draupadi could cross. At Lakshmi Ban, Draupadi is believed to have breathed her last. In the austere barren landscape at an altitude of 12600 feet, strewn with huge boulders, bhuj plants grow in the small patch of Lakshmi Ban. At Bandhar, it is said that Yudhishthir's thirst was quenched by the baan or arrow shot by Arjun which caused a stream of water to gush forth from the very Earth. At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima's release from earthly life. At Chakratirtha the great yogi and warrior, Arjun gave up his body. Ahead, only Yudhishthir with his dog, who was indeed Dharma Raja himself, went in his mortal form, negotiating dangerous glaciers and hidden crevasses. At Satopanth Tal, the celestial rath or vehicle received him.

With us were high altitude guide Devendra Rana of Joshimath, who has accompanied expeditions to various Himalayan summits in the Himalayas. The rest of the team, all from Joshimath included Dilawar Singh Rana, one of the most able porters. Surendra Singh Rawat was the oldest and most experienced porter. Harendra Singh Rawat was the youngest which was compensated by his enthusiasm and good cheer.

This trek generally takes 5 days. We scheduled an extra day staying overnight at Satopath. The trek begins at Mana, 10500 feet, 3 Km from Badrinath.
# Day 1: Mana to Chamtoli (12000 feet) 8 Km.
# Day 2: Chamtoli to Lakshmi Ban (12600 feet) 1 Km.
Lakshmi Ban to Bandhar (13000 feet) 2 Km.
Bandhar to Shahasra Dhara (14000 feet) 4 Km.
# Day 3: Sahasra Dhara to Chakratirtha (15000 feet) 5 Km.
# Day 4: Chakratirtha to Satopanth Tal (16000 feet) 5 Km.
# Day 5: Satopanth Tal to Bandhar (13000 feet) 14 Km.
# Day 6: Bandhar to Mana (10500 feet) 11 Km.

The Bridge On Alaknanda From Which We Started Our Journey...

Our first days trek was from Mana to Chamtoli. The pre-arranged guide and porters reported on time. We had planned on leaving at 8 a.m. but had to wait because of a new regulation for trekkers to Satopanth Tal. As this area is close to the Indo-China Border, we needed a permit from the DM"s office at Joshimath. Necessary permission is only issued after verification of Indian Citizenship on producing a valid Photo Identity Card. Our able guide cum High Altitude porter, Devendra Rana, who was familiar with the route also knew the officer-incharge at Mana ITBP (Indo-Tibet Border Police) check post. After considerable argument we were given permission on producing a written application stating that all responsibility for any mishaps on the Satopanth Tal route were squarely ours.

Mountain opposite the town which can be reached by crossing the river Alaknanda...

After crossing Alaknanda I took this image of sun rays which were protruding from where we came...

We finally started our trek at 11 a.m. Unlike the mythological route, we had to cross the river Alkananda at Mana by a rope bridge. We were walking along the right bank of the river till we reached a landslide zone. This area was at least half km and has to be covered without taking any rest in between. Every now and then rock pieces fell from the top on our left. We had to cross the area cautiously yet rapidly. On our right side the raging waters of the Alkananda flowed downstream. Thereafter, we had to climb a loose boulder wall of some 500 feet having a gradient of at least 75 degrees. This was a tiresome haul on the first day.

The Land Slide Zone Towards Vasudhara Falls...

Vasudhara Falls were visible from distance.Vasudhara falls.....in memory of Ashta Vasus who Did A Penance Here... A few minutes walk on the Vasudhara trail will take you to a small temple, one dedicated to Draupadi or Shakthi (whose reincarnation was Draupadi). According to the story, this is the place where Draupadi fell. Like the Pandavas, we carried on towards our destination.We were watching the amazing mana Peak From Mana pass...

Duet Mana Peak Viewed From Mana Pass...

Northeast of Badrinath is another impressive cluster of mountain peaks. The mountains rise almost on the Indo-Tibetan border with Mana and Kamet as the principal peaks. Mana itself marks the eastern extremity of the Zanskar range. It lies between the pass of the same name and the Niti Pass.

There views are awesome as you walk towards Vasudhara falls.The Trail Towards Vasudhara...

There views are awesome as you walk towards Vasudhara falls. There were some bushes all along the otherwise barren landscape, with bright red and orange berries on them. Though the signboard said 5 kms to Vasudhara, we felt it was more than that.. probably it was just our legs complaining. This trek was relatively easy without any steep climbs. The falls was visible at a distance and we thought its just a hill away. But we had to walk across atleast another 4 hills and a stream before we could finally reach it.

The trail Surrounded By Mountain Peaks Embedded With Snow...

Vasudhara falls drops from a height of 125 meters, but due to the height the water falls down like a shower of droplets. It was really cold out there and only Jayan managed to take a shower. The rest of us sat there watching the falls and the mist covered valley below. The tranquility of the place was amazing, no wonder why all the yogis choose to go to the Himalayas to meditate.

Distant View of Vasudhara Falls...

A myth or belief is that the Ashtavasus did Tap for 1000 yrs here,and the holy water of this fall dont fall on head of a person who has done tremendous sins..The moment seemed to be freeze forever as we were completely immersed in the immense beauty of the nature..

Vasudhara Falls and Draupadi Temple...

At vasudhara falls Draupadi Breathed her last...At her memory a small temple is built here and dedicated to her as Shakti....An idol of Draupadi is worshipped in this temple...

An Idol Of Draupadi

Vasudhara Falls...A Rainbow...

Ahead, the path till Chamtoli Bugyal (Meadows or Mat Of Grass) was reasonable. Though we had planned on a night halt further on at Bandhar, the mornings delay saw us pitching tent at Chamtoli at 3 p.m. This is a beautiful green flat valley just opposite the Vasudhara Falls..Far away from vasudhara falls the glacier divider was visible. Satopanth glacier (left) and Vagirath Kharga glacier (right) made Alkapuri here.

Satopanth glacier (left) and Bhagirath Kharga glacier (right) made Alkapuri here.

We were on the way to Chamtoli Bugyal...but the path was risky as we had to cross Dhano glacier which ice flow was making us like ice skeletons...

Dhano Glacier...

Crossing Dhano Glacier was a thrilling experience as to walk on a glacier is a life and death situation...If a glacier starts melting or bursting there is no chance of survival...

Crossing Dhano Glacier...

We took a bit rest and started walking towards the beautiful Chamtolo Bugyal..Neelaknth came from clouds and was at its full glow...What a beauty it was...Also snow capped Mt.Kuber was visible from clouds...It was a divine beauty of the Himalayas that we were stunned to see the peaks and their glory..We almost forget to breath by this amazing scene and beauty of Nature...

Mount Kuber @ Sun Set...visible from Chamtoli Bugyal...

Snow capped mountains,Glaciers,rugged paths,fresh green meadow of Chamtoli bygyal,And a variety of flowers...We almost forgot our strain of steep climbs,crossing risky Dhano glacier.Our Porters started to pitch tents and our preparing for the dinner..

Neelkanth @ Sun Set...

At Chamtoli Bugyal we found so many varieties of beautiful flowers,lush green meadows of grass.i could not resist myself from taking photographs of these awesome beautiful macros.Till tents were pitched up and dinner being prepared we took as many as photographs we can.

Amazing Flora @ chamtoli Bugyal...

The Place where Ved Vyas has said to Split the 4 Vedas...This rock represents the split vedas...

this is a photograph where Ved vyas has said to split the 4 vedas...the rock is been divided in 2 parts...it is said that one split of the rock represents Rigveda and yajurveda and the other split represents the atharva and Saam vedas.

Our tents...Engulfing Clouds and Vasudhara falls @ Far Distance..

The weather was deteriorating...The clouds were engulfing....the snow fall began...temperature began to fall below sub zero..Chilly winds started blowing...Sun light began to fade fast...and the Night started falling..We started becoming ice skeletons and the porters reminded us to safe guard us from the AMS(Altitude Mountain Sickness.)..it was only 7.30 in the evening but the darkness was coming closer so fast..We had Rice Khichadi,Maggi...made by the porters.

Moon rise Over Chamtoli Bugyal...

We had no other substitute other than sleeping early as we had to start early in the morning towards Bandhar...the next Pit Stop...our journey continued...

Satopanth Tal(Lake): Route to Heaven.......In Badrinath And Mana...Last Village On Indo Tibet Border.

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:28:00 +0000

.........Journey on the way of Pandavas......

According to Hindu mythology, Satopanth Tal is on the route taken by the Panch Pandavas on their Swarga Yatra. At various places their name remains as a memorial of this sacred journey. At the starting point at Mana, 3 km away from Badrinath, is the natural rock bridge, Bhima Pul. Here, Bhima is believed to have made the bridge over the river Saraswati so Draupadi could cross. At Lakshmi Ban, Draupadi is believed to have breathed her last. In the austere barren landscape at an altitude of 12600 feet, strewn with huge boulders, bhuj plants grow in the small patch of Lakshmi Ban. At Bandhar, it is said that Yudhishthir's thirst was quenched by the baan or arrow shot by Arjun which caused a stream of water to gush forth from the very Earth. At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima's release from earthly life. At Chakratirtha the great yogi and warrior, Arjun gave up his body. Ahead, only Yudhishthir with his dog, who was indeed Dharma Raja himself, went in his mortal form, negotiating dangerous glaciers and hidden crevasses. At Satopanth Tal, the celestial rath or vehicle received him.

Heavy Snow Fall On The Way To Badrinath...

Inspired by this ancient heritage and the lofty Himalayas, the playground of the Gods, we undertook this sacred yatra.We started off from valley Of Flowers towards Badrinath...The Final Dham Of Lord Badri Vishal from where we were going to start our sacred journey towards the Path To Heaven.On the way to Badrinath from Valley Of Flowers,we experienced a heavy snow fall all along the way till Badrinath and within Badrinath.To trek towards Swargarohini we were willing to visit Badrinath first as the route passes from badrinath..and Pandavas went on this path...

Badrinath Town All Covered By Snow...Chilling.

We reached Badrinath on 4th September 2000,in the evening and as per our programme halted in Balanand Ashram...We were experiencing an ice fall never seen before,like a dream.It was maximum in last 5 years as per the local people.all over Badrinath.

Badrinath Town All Covered By Snow...Chilling.

Located only a few kilometers from the Indo-China (Tibet) border Badrinath stands first in the pilgrimage programs as it bears the highest degree of supreme faith and dedication to god. According to the Skanda Purana: "There are several sacred shrines in heaven, on earth, and in hell; but there is no shrine like Badrinath". The area around Badrinath was celebrated in Padma Purana as abounding in spiritual treasures. In the Hindu mythology, the region of the Himalayas is land of meditation "Uttra-Khand", in which the holly abode of Shri Badrinathji has been, situated in the extreme north of India at the confluence of river Rishi Ganga and River Alaknanda at a height of 3110m above sea level. A great religious importance has been attached to Badrinath Pauri which was once surrounded by wild berries or 'Badri' and so it was named ‘Badrivan’. This land has been worshipped by saints and sages as it has been the abode of yogis and great hermits. Badrinath has also been eulogized as Bhu Vaikuntha or earthly abode of Lord Vishnu.Many religious scholars such as Ramanujacharya, Madhawacharya and Vedanta Desika visited Badrinath and wrote sacred texts, such as commentaries on Brahma Sutras and other Upanishads.

Lord Badrinath Temple Under Snow Cover..

After refreshing we went to Seek the blessings of Lord Badrinath...Badri Vishal,some say.Facing the temple at the bank of Alaknanda river is a hot water spring known as ‘Tapt Kund’. A bath in this spring is very refreshing. a separate tank is available for women. the temple opens every year in the month of April-May and closes during the winter around the third week of November. It is believed that worshipping at this shrine is a means of liberating the soul from the bound of transmigration.

Gate Of Shri Balanand Ashram..Studded With Snow.

The colourful and distinctive façade of the temple, known as Singhdwar, is crafted painstakingly. The present structure of the temple is a contribution of the Kings of Garhwal, it is said. It has three sections – garbh griha (sanctum sanctorum), the Darshan Mandap, and Sabha Mandap. In the sanctum is placed the image of Lord Vishnu as Badri Narayan (also called Badri Vishal) under a canopy covered with a sheet of gold presented by the Queen Ahilyabai.

Badrinath temple and the Alaknanda river flowing besides it, taken very early in the morning. Just look at the way the temple is glowing among all the other structures. Beneath the temple, where you can see the smoke, is the hot water spring where the devotees take a dip before entering the temple.

The image of Lord Vishnu in the temple is claimed to have miraculously emerged full-formed from a Shaligram, a particular type of black stone containing fossilised ammonite, which is itself considered a "self-manifested" form of Vishnu. It represents Lord Vishnu in meditation. The Temple compound also has idols of Garud (the vehicle of Lord Narayan) and Goddess Mahalaxmi as well as of Adi Shankracharya, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujan.

Badrinath temple, sometimes called Badrinarayan temple, is situated along the Alaknanda river.

The temple is open for six months of the year – from April-May to October-November, but its day of opening is determined on the day of the Basant Panchami (in February-March), in accordance with astrological configurations. Pujas are held during the opening and the closing of the temple.After consultations with pandits and astrologers, between them and the former Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal, and a brief ceremony at Narendra Nagar on the day of Basant Panchami, a suitable day is fixed between the last week of April and the first week of May for opening the temple. On this day, the sesame oil prepared in Narendra Nagar, is traditionally handed over to a representative of the Temple Committee, for balming the idol of Lord Vishnu right through the year. The first ceremony on opening is the darshan of the Akhand Jyoti (eternal flame) in an ancient lamp which has remained lit all through the year, even when the temple closed for the winter. The Puja is performed in the darshan mandap which can only accommodate a few people while the devotees stand in the outer or sabha mandap for the holy glimpse while the puja is being performed after a dip in the holy Taptakund.

Badrinath temple, sometimes called Badrinarayan temple, is situated along the Alaknanda river

The chilly winds and near zero temperatures at Badrinath, combined with the fact that we would begin early on the trek the following day, called for an early night. We woke up to our first view of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) between Nar and Narayan Parbat from our window in the Hotel. The first lights of the sun glowed on the tip of the peak and we watched in awed as the colours changed on the mighty snow peak.

Neelkanth Peak @ Early Rays Of Sun Rise..
Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath.

I got speechless to look at that mesmerizing, amazing, gorgeous peak. The Neelkanth peak which was not visible the other day because of cloud cover was shining like an orangeish tube light when the first ray of sun fell on it. Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath

Neelkanth Peak After Sun Rise..
Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath.

I got so much captured by the beauty that I didn’t even blink my eyes and kept standing over there until I got out of that effect of hypnotization.At the back side of Badrinath temple a valley open to Neelkanth peak, which embodies all the divinity of this divine land..We started towards Mana..Ancient .Manibhadra Ashram

The quaint little village of ‘Mana’ (माणा) lies three kilometers north of Badrinath (बद्रीनाथ). It has not compromised with time. It has the distinction of being the last Indian village on the Indo-Tibet border. The villagers of Mana are semi-nomads who fled Tibet during the Chinese occupation. Come winter they move down to Gopeshwar (गोपेश्वर), literally lock stock and barrel, with even the little local school. They are ineluctably linked with the rich religious heritage of Badrinath. On the occasion of the closing ceremony of the shrine every year at the onset of winter, the villagers of Mana offer a wooleen shawl woven by the girls of the village for the deity.

Entrance to Mana....An Ancient village...Manibhadra Ashram in puranas...

Slate roofed little houses in that village looked beautiful and some people I saw were engaged in agro horticulture activities. I have seen people very inspirationally hard working in the Himalayan region and people in Mana were no different. I came to know Mana is also a pass, in the times Tibet was in existence this place was a route for traders to carry their stuffs to Tibet and stuffs from Tibet.Prior to Indo-China war of 1962 Mana was a prosperous place. But After the war, now when there is no Tibet and only China, people of Mana have lost their major source of income and their occupation. They only earn these days by being a guide, poter or by selling home made stuffs. It is sad but a war not only kills people but also kills culture, society and occupation.

Down the valley, in the center, you can see the town of Badrinath.

In a narrow cemented path I was walking and enjoying the wonderful village blessed with so much natural beauty. On one side flawless river Alaknanda enchanting as always flows, and the village was surrounded by beautiful gorgeous snowy mountains. I was having a time of life.

On the right side of the river

Great Alaknanda...Fierce..

I could see from the boards that I was heading towards Vyas Gufa. It is believed that Rishi Vyas while residing in a cave created Mahabharata and the cave now is known as Vyas Gufa

The Map Itself...

I was astonished to look at that cave from outside; the hill was in a structure of a massive book, even the pages were visible. The hill is called Vyas pothi on the accounts of river Saraswati and it is believed to be the book of Mahabharata.I was witnessing the place which has so much importance in mythology and believe me I never believed the place referred in the mythology exists for real.

Vyas Gufa (Cave)..Mana was known as ‘Manibhadra Ashrama’ (मणिभद्र आश्रम), which claims to have witnessed the composition of the epic ‘Mahabharata’. It is belived the Vyas Muni composed the epic at Mana, He lived in a cave, known as ‘Vyas Gufa’ , other caves are ‘Ganesh Gufa’ and ‘Muchkunda Gufa.

I went inside the cave and saw an idol of rishi Vyas installed .Vyasa wrote the 18 Puranas and Mahabharata. He also propagated the Four Vedas from here, through his disciples. He spread Vedas through his disciples like Jaimini, Sumantu, Pyla, etc. Vyasa means segregating or dividing. He segregated Vedas into Rig, Yajur, Sama and Atharvana and so he is Veda Vyasa. In spite of all such great works, he had dissatisfaction. Vedas, though useful, could not be understood by all. So, he wrote Mahabharata, which is claimed as the Fifth Veda [Panchamo Veda:]. Brahma's son was sage Vasishta, whose son was Shakti, whose son was Parashara, whose son was Vyasa. His son was sage Suka Brahmam. What a great family with lineage! He wrote Mahabharata, which has 125,000 slokas, in 18 Parvas! What is not in Mahabharatha would not be anywhere! Such a great epic was written from this cave! From outside this cave appears as an assembly of palm leaves manuscripts! This is called Vyasa pothi.

Inside Vyas Gufa...his place was known as ‘Manibhadra Ashrama’ (मणिभद्र आश्रम), which claims to have witnessed the composition of the epic ‘Mahabharata’. It is belived the Vyas Muni composed the epic at Mana, He lived in a cave, known as ‘Vyas Gufa’ , other caves are ‘Ganesh Gufa’ and ‘Muchkunda Gufa.

Ganesh Gufa is where Shri Ganesh Bhagwan used to sit while Vyas Rishi was dictating the great epic Mahabharat to Shri Ganesh Bhagwan.

Ganesh Gufa(Cave)...It is believed that in that cave Lord Ganesha lived and helped Rishi Vyas to create Mahabharata

So naturally Ganesh Gufa is below Vyas Gufa. It is said that Vyas Rishi wanted someone to write so fast that he would not need to repeat a single word, so he asked Ganesh for the job. With this condition of Vyas Rishi’s Ganesh put his own condition that he would do the job only if the Mahabharat is dictated in one go. That means Mahabharat was dictated in one go and without being repeated a single word to Shri Ganesh.

Inside Ganesh Gufa...Lord Ganesh

While Vyasa was writing Mahabharata, river Saraswati was flowing with great noise. Since that was disturbing him, Vyasa requested Saraswati to flow calmly. She refused, which angered Vyasa and diverted Saraswati's course. We can see Saraswati river upto a point and then she disappears and joins Alakananda at Keasava prayag. Then the river is called Alakananda only. Then she flows as Antarvahini [hidden river] and mixes with Ganga and Yamuna at Prayag or Allahabad. Because of Veda Vyasa's ire, Saraswati river flows as hidden river. Vyasa completed Mahabharata and made available for public. But, instead of being proud of having authored a great epic, Vyasa was in agony. That time sage Narada came.He inquired about worry of Vyasa. Vyasa replied that though he completed the epic, he had a dissatisfied mind. Narada answered that other than the Lord, any other topic would not satisfy the mind. So, he advised Vyasa to compose a work only on the Lord and Dharma. Vyasa did accordingly and Srimad Bhagavatam was born.

Keshav Prayag. River Saraswati emerges from a glacier about 3km for Mana and the confluence of river Alaknanda and river Saraswati is known as Keshav Prayag.

After worshiping Lord Ganesh and Veda Vyasa in their respective caves, we have now come to a nearby rock. This is called Bhim pul or Bhima Shila.According to legend Pancha Pandavas and Draupati, in the end, started their journey to heaven. After crossing Vyasa cave, they found Saraswati river was flowing aggressively. Crossing that river was the way to Swarga or heaven.

Bhim Shila or Bhim pul’...a large piece of rock and it is said that Bhim of the Mahabharata dropped it in river to enable Draupadi to cross the river during there yatra meant for salvation.

Draupati being a woman was finding it difficult to cross. Bhima requested Saraswati to narrow down a bit for Draupadi to cross over, but she refused to oblige. The enraged Bhima kicked at a rock and fell it across the river for Draupadi to cross. It goes by the name of ‘Bhim pul’, the river Saraswati rises from near the Mana pass on the border to emerge here only to disappear to emerge finally to merge with Ganga an Yamuna at Allahabad.River Saraswati emerges from a glacier about 3km for Mana and the confluence of river Alaknanda and river Saraswati is known as Kesshav Prayag.

Keshav Prayag Captured from The Other Side...The Fierce Gorge Of Saraswati..

The sight of the huge mountain and the steep valley, and the rushing Saraswati river, all made us nervous! This bridge connects one mountain to another.And the ancient path lead towards vasudhara...the original patha of Pandavas To Swargarohini...the Fierce and gushing holy River Saraswati with her tremendous force and sound was making us to tremble..from here she falls down in a deep gorge to vanish and meet up with Alaknanda and flows all along with the name of Alaknanda till Alahabad...Prayag.The Scene was making us weak...and this was happening with every person standing there....

Keshav Prayag...Starting Point Of holy Saraswati...

To worship Saraswati...here is a small temple @ Keshav Prayag..To make her at peace...To worship her for not to be so fierce,forceful...To calm her...

Saraswati Temple @ Keshav Prayag...

Inside this small temple a small idol of Devi Saraswati has been placed.every visitor seeks the darshan and blessings of this Goddess Saraswati...After taking darshan of All places in Mana we returned to Badrinath for the remaining places to be visited and we were returning tomorrow here on this way only to begin towards Swarga Rohini...

Idol Of River Saraswati @ Keshav Prayag...

On The Way To Vishnu/Charan Paduka..

In Dwaparayug,according to Sri BhagwatPurana, Lord Sri Krishna at the time of his departure from this earth,sent his minister and friend Sri Uddhav, the only surviving yadav to proceed to Badrinath,then known as Vishala with his Charan Paduka and assured him that the very sight of Alakhnanda would wash off his all sins.

Way To Charan Paduka...

.Charan Paduka of Lord Vishnu...

According to the Skand,Sthal and Srimad Bhagavat puran ths place is known as Badrikasharam in Kaliyuga, the present age.Rishi Ved Vayas, also known as Bahdarayana lived here and compiled Vedas,wrote Bramha Sutra,Mahabharata and took the initiation of Srimada Bhagvat Purana from Saint Narad.According to the Sthal Purana, Lord Vishnu is worshiped at Badrinath by the human beings for the period when these mountains are free from snow and by Saint Narada when it snow heavily during winters.

Vishnu Paduka @ Badrinath.Charan Paduka, or footprints of Lord Vishnu.

Mata Murti Temple...

On the other side of Alakananda, we can see Mata Murti temple.The Lord Narayana is Omnipresent.. But when He took avatar as Sri Rama, Kausalya was His mother. Devaki was the mother of Sri Krishna. Similarly, there was a mother of Sri Narayana and Sri Nara, and there is a temple for her.The idol is of the woman, who gave birth to this world, Sri Nara and Sri Narayana! The idol is small. During the month of Avani, on Shukla paksha Dwadasi, Sri Badrinath arrives here to pay respects to His mother! This festival is celebrated annually, and the Lord is taken on a grand procession! It is celebrated as Sri Mata Murty mela and Badarikashram wears festival look! After a day's stay in this temple, the Lord returns to Badarikashram by evening. Usually, this festival is celebrated a few days before Sri Krishna Jayanti [Gokulashtami or Janmashtami].

Mata Murti Temple...

Tapt kund...

Down the steps from the temple, above the river bank are the thermal springs, their steam visibly from the opposite bank. It is a wonder that such hot water springs are found in such cold areas at all. The pilgrims take a bath here before visiting the temple. In fact, this bath is one pilgrimage that bears immediate fruit – instantly rejuvenating the traveller’s tired body.

Narad kund...Narad Kund is formed from a recess in the bed of the river, close to Taptakund. This is sheltered by a bare rock whose projecting angle breaks the force of the current and renders the place fit for bathing. It is said to be very deep and it is from here that the idol of Lord Vishnu was recovered first by Brahma and then by Adi Shankracharya. The hot water springs comes out from beneath the Garud Shila and falls into a tank. Darshan of Badrinath is always preceded by a holy dip in this kund. The water in this pool is very hot so it is good idea not to stay in it too long.

Tapt Kund...

Urvashi Mandir...

Badrivishal, the ashram of Nar and Narayan, where both performed penance and now, in the shape of mountains, guard the temple, was also the scene of their temptation. While they were in deep meditation, Lord Indra sent a group of celestial maidens or apsaras to distract them. Narayan tore his left thigh and out of the flesh, created several nymphs each more beautiful than the other. The most ravishing of all of them – Urvashi -- led the nymphs to Indra and shattered his pride near a small pond in the Charanpaduka, 2 kilometres from Badrivishal. The pond bears the name of Urvashi; and there is a temple on the outskirts of Bamni village dedicated to the lovely nymph. In the sanctum sanctorum, a celestial nymph sits on the left thigh of Narayan.

Urvashi Mandir...

Shesh Netra...

On the opposite bank of the Alaknanda, between two seasonal lakes, a boulder carries the impression of Shesh Nag, the legendary snake. This large boulder, located on the way to Mana village just outside the town, has two eyes which have been naturally created on in. They are said to belong to Shesh Nag, who, ever vigilant, protects the Badrinath Shrine.

Shesh Netra...

Hike to the foot of the mountain Nilkant, Badrinath, actually requires a special permit (according to locals). On the other hand, there were no posts and booths to check this Permita, and after 3 hours on foot rests on the dead-end wall of proper foot Nilkantha, mountains 6558 meters high (at least some reliable information a little more than 7000 meters). Nilkanth - the abode of Shiva and Siddha-sthala, or place of power. The word "Nilkantha" in Sanskrit means "Blue-" is an epithet of Shiva swallowed the poison halahala to save the Creation during the churning ocean of milk - a legendary history, standing at perhaps half of the legends of the origins of Hinduism.

Trekking to the foot of the mountain Neeikanth
(6558 meters, Neelkanth, "Blue-" Shiva)

Panch Dharas..
.
The Panch Dharas (five streams) which are part of the Badrinath site-seeing are Prahlad, Kurma, Bhrigu, Urvashi and Indira dhara. The most striking of these is the Indira dhara, about 1.5 kilometres north of the town Badripuri. Bhrigudhara flows past a number of caves. The one on the right of river Rishi Ganga, originally from the Neelkanth range is Urvashi dhara. Kurma dhara’s water is extremely cold whereas Prahlad dhara has lukewarm water, which glides majestically down the rocks of Narayan Parvat.

Panchshila
It seems there is great importance and sanctity attached to the figure panch (five) in Garhwal, and so one finds many places such as Panch Prayag (five confluences), Panch Kedar (five Kedars), Panch Badri (five Badris), etc. Similarly, in Badrinath, there are the panchshila (five rocks)

Panch Dharas..

Leela Dhongi....

Badrinath is the area that Lord Shiv originally chose for his tapasya. However, Lord Vishnu decided that he wanted to meditate here so he assumed the form of a little child and lay on a rock and cried. He refused to stop even when Parvati tried to console him. In the end, Lord Shiv could not stand the child’s wails and decided to shift to Kedarnath. The rock on which Lord Badrinath is said to have played this trick is called Leela Dhongi and is located on the way to Bamni village.

Leela Dhongi...

The Temple compound also has idols of Garud (the vehicle of Lord Narayan) and Goddess Mahalaxmi as well as of Adi Shankracharya, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujan.

Statues of Adi Shankracharya, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujan.

Bramha Kapal...

Legend has it that when, for some reason, Lord Shiv chopped off the head of Lord Brahma, the head stuck to the former’s hand and brahm-hatya (the curse of killing Brahma) befell him. Lord Shiv then went to all the pilgrim places but the curse did not go away. At last, when he came to Badrikashram, not only was he freed of Brahma’s head but was also relieved of the curse. Today, at the spot about 300 metres away towards the river’s source, is a rock known by the name Brahmkapal (Brahma’s head). Here, the pilgrims perform propitiating rites and rituals for their dead ancestors and offer pind daan.

Bramha Kapal...

On The way to Charan Paduka...Trek uphill.

Rishi ganga flow through a man made diversion ted to create a fall and electricity too.Trek up towards charan paduka area .

The beautifully lightened temple was looking fabulous and the river Alaknanda’s enchanting flowing sound was synchronizing with the sound of the bells and Mantras enchanted in the temple which gave a feeling of tranquility. One can feel the power of mantras orchestrated by bells and natures own music.The temple is managed by the Shri Badrinath Mandir Samiti, constituted in 1939 by the Badrinath Temple Act 16, 1939. The Head Pujari of the temple, a Namboodri Brahmin, is known as the Rawal, and is appointed jointly by the former Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal and the Temple Committee. He is the only person who is allowed to touch the idol of the deity. He is assisted by a naib Rawal, who is also a Namboodri Brahmin and the Rawal’s successor. Well versed in Sanskrit and puja rituals, the Rawal must also be celibate and loses his position if he gains a wife.

Badrinath Temple @ Its Full glow...

Near the mandap is located a headless statue of Ghantakarn, who is considered the dwarpal (guard) of the area. According to Harivansh Puran, Ghantakarn was a demon and an ardent devotee of Lord Shiv. In fact, he did not accept any other god, and was particularly opposed to Vishnu. He wore large bells in his ears so that he did not hear the name of Vishnu. After thousands of years of worshipping Shiv, the latter granted him a boon, but all that Ghantakarn wanted was mukti (release).

Inside The Mandapam...

Expressing his inability to fulfil his wish, Shiv said that only Narayan (Vishnu) could grant mukti. Ghantakarn then began worshipping Krishna, who was at Badrikashram at the time. Pleased with his worship, Krishna advised him to give up his violent ways, and thereafter Ghantakarn remained here as kshetrapal (the region’s protector). There are temples to Ghantakarn in many parts of Garhwal but it is only at Badrinath that he is worshipped as a kshetrapal.

Inside The Mandapam...

After entering the dharsan mandap I could look into the Garbha Griha where the beautiful Devine idol of lord Badrinath was placed under the canopy covered with gold sheets. Aarti was going on and I got totally mesmerized in that Divine atmosphere.

To the left of Maha Vishnu are Narayan and Nara. The Uddhav (Utsav or decorative idol of Lord Krishna’s closest friend) idol stands in front of the Lord flanked by silver images of Garud (Lord Vishnu’s vehicle) and Narad. Above is placed Krishna's Sudarshan Chakra also crafted in sliver.

Surprisingly taken...Is not allowed but because of swamiji.s permission...

Nobody was supposed to stand there for more than a minute to enable people in the queue to have dharsana. I got out of the temple and the aarti was still ringing in my ears then. From very childhood I have heard the aari but never felt the power in it as I felt it in the temple.We returned to our Ashram as we have to prepare for the long, fierce trek towards Satopanth...Swargarohini Trek..tomorrow onwards..

Shri Badrinathji the lord of Himalayas is being worshipped all the time by sheshnag the snake’s lord. Even the lord of lords, lord Shiva is always busy in your meditation. The God of creation, Brahma, and ancient holly book, Ved, have habitually been enchanting hymns in praise of Lord Badrinath.

Next morning after taking this beautiful photo of the Gadhwal Queen we set off towards Mana....Swarga Rohini...Path Towards Heaven... Not knowing What Will Happen On This Scary Path...We Will Succeed To Complete The Trek?...Or not...A Question Of Life And Death...But Courageously We Walked...And...

Neelkanth Peak After Sun Rise..
Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath.

शेष सुमिरन करत निशिदिन |

धरत ध्यान महेश्वरम |

श्री वेद ब्रह्मा करत स्तुती |

श्री बद्री नाथ विश्वंभरम |

||शुभम भवतु||

Mussoorie.....The Queen Of Hills....

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 12:09:00 +0000

Mussoorie.....Towards Paradise On Earth...

From Rishikesh we started our journey towards Mussoorie...The Queen Of Hills....The next stop was Mussoorie in the Char Dham journey.Peace and tranquility can be found high up in the hills at the foot of the Himalayan mountains. Access is restricted this time of year to many of the higher mountain passes - closed due to snow and ice - but Mussoorie is easily accessible all year round from Dehra Dun via Rishikesh or Haridwar. Be warned however its pretty damn cold with temperatures touching freezing at night.

En Route To Mussoorie from Dehradun.......

Pleasant nights, whispering pine, fresh air, excellent walks and respite from the scorching heat and dust of the plains, remind one of the irresistible Mussoorie - a queen of hills.As the mercury rises and the educational institutions close, families and young folks set out for Mussoorie for a breathing spell. Perched atop a high ridge overlooking the Doon Valley, Mussoorie has thickly wooded Shivalik range on one side and snow capped mountains of inner Himalayas on the other side.

View Of Doon Valley...

The town sits on the hillside and harbours great views of Dehra Dun several thousand meters below. At least that's the case usually at this time of year; at other times it is apparently often shrouded in mist. Mussoorie is popular with the Indian holiday makers and is a popular retreat during the summer months when it is much cooler higher up and the local falls provide an ideal way to cool off.

View Of Doon Valley...

Mussoorie drives its name from masur as a name given to Coriana nepalensis shrub. Its history is dated back to 1827 when Captain Young, an adventure seeking military officer, discovered Mussoorie and laid down the foundation of this beautiful hill station of Uttarakhand. Its proximity to the plains slowly attracted more and more people who build their summer retreats here.Mussoorie has fascinated people of literary distinctions for years. The first Australian-born novelist, John Lang spent the last years of his life in Mussoorie. He died in 1864 and was buried here in the old English cemetery.Today you may find Mussoorie a bit crowded but still it is the most sought after hill station, which has few rivals for sheer grandeur of its surrounding.

Engulfing Clouds....

Beautiful promenades, excellent clubs, means of entertainment and choice of activities. A tourist here can trek, ramble, play golf or tennis, limber up legs at the Mall for souvenirs or savour the delights of cultural shows.Built initially as a summer resort, the natural beauty of Mussoorie and abundance of picnic spots in the hills are its prime attraction.

A View Of Military Base En Route From Dehradun To Mussoorie....

This growing town has changed over the last decade due to the overload of ‘tourism’ but it still has some of it’s old charm if you are ready to look beyond the Mall Road, the Gun Hill and the Kempty Fall – the three most famous and commercialized places here. Mussoorie’s other gems are its several walks. In fact it’s a walker’s paradise. So if you are not just those kind of tourists then try its walks. Camel’s Back Road walk is one of the favorites, which provides you the view of the valley, mountains in total peace.

The Library,One Of The Oldest Building @ One End Of The Mall Road,And Hence Called Library Square...

The Mall Road...

Start of The mall Road @ The Library Square...

The Much fascinating places in and near Mussoorie includes the Gun Hill Point..It is a bare rocky outcrop in the centre of the hill station. Gun hill is so named because the hilltop had a gun mounted on it before independence. It was fired at mid of the day to announce the time. Hence it is called Gun Hill. The spot offers panoramic view of snow clad Himalayan ranges including Bunder punch, Srikanth, Pithwara and Gangotri group. A birds eye view from this point is very fascinating. Access to Gun Hill is either along a bridle path from Mall near Kutchery or by a ropeway carriage. The ropeway distance up to Gun Hill is only 400 metres and the sheer thrill of the ride is memorable.

In The Trolley(Gandola) From Gun Hill Point

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Old Mussoorie From Gun Hill Point...

View From Gun Point...

Municipal garden : It is a picnic spot having a beautiful garden and an artificial mini lake with boating facilities. The distance by cycle rickshaw, pony or a car is 4 kms. But if you walk the distance it is only 2 kms.

Municipal Garden...

The Begonias @ Municipal Garden

The Artificial Waterfalls @ Municipal Garden

Kempty Fall: It has the distinction of being the biggest and the most magnificent waterfalls in a beautiful valley surrounded by high mountains. Bath at the foot of the falls is refreshing and enjoyable for both children and adults alike. Taxis and conducted tours are available from Mussoorie. There is a cafeteria close by for snacks and small meals

On The Way To Kempty Falls...

Kempty Falls Distant View

Dhanaulti:Dhanaulti, located amidst thick, virgin forests of Deodar, Rhododendron and Oak, has an atmosphere of perfect peace & tranquility. The long wooded slopes, relaxed outdoors, cool crossing breeze, warm and hospitable inhabitants, lovely weather and fabulous view of snow covered mountains is an ideal retreat for a nature lover...Dhanolti or Dhanaulti is unspoilt, quiet and with beautiful views situated 30 kms away from Mussoorie on Chamba Route.

Himalayan Panorama,The Greater Himalayan Range Seen From Dhanaulti..

The drive through the dense forest is a refreshing one and the range of mountains keep our eyes delighted with changing panorama.The walk through the deodar forest and now and then the glimpses of the icy mountains kept our enthusiasm alive till we reached the top. The view was good but not very impressive. A small portion of the range was visible because another range of mountains blocked the view of the Gangotri glacier. I was adamant to see the full view and hence went alone in search of a path which could lead me to the highest point from where I could see the whole range.

A View From Dhanaulti "View point" up hill

Mist In The Morning

Beautiful view of Swararohini,Banderpoonch 2,Banderpoonch and Kalanag peaks from left.from Dhanaulti

All I can describe Mussoorie is like this way:

The path of mossy ground nestled
In between maternal hedgerows,
That overgrew atop, dimming out
The brilliance of the day.
Embosomed, a calm-cool vision –
Abstract takes of nature, in
Leaf-spattered green shades;
Stem-speckled brown hues;
Shards of sunlight percolating
Through the random flaws to
Up glittering sprites upon the leaves...

My owned hotel @ Mussoorie.

Rain From The Windows of My Room

Nature @ Glance

Night View Of Mussoorie

My Journey Continued towards Yamunotri...

Rishikesh...Bliss On The Holy Banks Of Ganga.....

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 11:22:00 +0000

Rishikesh - Gateway to the Himalayas....

Rishikesh represents the Gateway to the Himalayas in the Tehri-Garhwal region of Uttar Pradesh. It abounds in natural splendour. The spectacle of the Ganga rushing through the Himalayan foothills is an awesome sight. Several temples dot the banks of the Ganga at Rishikesh.

Rishikesh is located at a height of about 1360 feet above sea level. It is believed that several yogis and sages lived and practised penance here. Rishikesh represents the site where Lord Vishnu vanquished the demon Madhu. हृषीकेश is a name of Lord Vishnu that means 'lord of the senses'. Rishikesh is a holy city for Hindus located in the foothills of the Himalaya in northern India. The place got its name after Lord Vishnu who appeared to 'Raibhya Rishi', as a result of his tapasya (austerities), as Lord Hrishikesh . In Skanda Purana, this area is known as 'Kubjamrak' as Lord Vishnu appeared, under a mango tree

Rishikesh derived from the word Hrishikesh, is another name of Lord Vishnu, who is said to have destroyed the demon Madhu here. Legend also has it that Lord Rama, on the advice of the sage Vasishtha, sought penance here after having killed Ravana. Thus in Sanskrit, Rishikesh means 'he who has conquered his senses'.

Aarti On The Banks Of Ganga

Historically, Hrishikesh, has been a part of the legendary 'Kedarkhand' (the present day Garhwal), the abode of Shiva. Legends state that Lord Rama did penance here for killing Ravana, the demon king of Lanka; and Lakshmana, his younger brother, crossed the river Ganga, at a point, where the present 'Lakshman Jhula' bridge stands today, using a jute rope bridge. The 'Kedar Khand' of Skanda Purana, also mentions the existence of Indrakund at this very point.

Statue Of Lord Shiva

The sacred river Ganga flows through Rishikesh. In fact, it is here that the river leaves the Shivalik mountains in the Himalayas and flows out into the plains of northern India. Several temples, ancient as well as new, can be found along the banks of the Ganges in Rishikesh. The city attracts thousands of pilgrims and tourists each year, from within India, as well as from other countries.

.

Laxman Jhoola

Tryambakeshwar Temple

Rishikesh, sometimes nicknamed "the world capital of Yoga", has numerous yoga centres that also attract tourists. It is believed that meditation in Rishikesh brings one closer to attainment of moksha, as does a dip in the holy river that flows through it. It is also becoming a popular spot for white water rafting enthusiasts, both from India and abroad, as it offers medium to rough rapids in the course of river Ganges.

Ganga sen from Laxman Jhoola

The Other Side Of Laxman Jhoola

Rishikesh became famous when Beatles visited now defunct Mahesh Yogi Ashram.They composed some of their songs on the bank of the river.

Lachman Jhoola....The main attraction of Rishikesh. It is a suspended bridge, built in 1939. Surajmal Nagarmal, the famous merchants of Calcutta paid the cost of the bridge.Just across the bridge, on the other side two temples will certainly attract attentions by their sheer heights! One is 13 storied temple and the other one is 12 storied temple… Visit them if you have ample time. Deities are placed all over the temples from ground 0 to upwards…

The Lachman Jhoola and 13+12 storied temples on the other bank

The name Rishikesh is loosely applied to an association of five distinct sections encompassing not only the town but also hamlets and settlements on both sides of the river Ganges.North of Rishikesh; the temple section of Lakshman Jhula, a little further north; and the assorted Ashrams around Swarg Ashram on the east bank. One can reach the famous Neelakanta Maha Deva Temple from here. The Ganga Arati performed at dusk at the Triveni Ghat is popular with visitors.

On The Way To Neelkanth Mahadev Temple..

The temple is very old and Shrabanimela, every year in mid July , occurs here.

Shri Neelkanth Mahadev Temple

About a Km from entrance of Ram Jhoola( Also known as Shivananda Jhoola) is Geeta Bhavan . The epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata are sculpted on its wall. It is run by famous Geeta Press of Gorakhpur and was established in 1950. Ram Jhoola is longer and wider than its younger brother. It is too a hanging bridge.You can feed the fishes in the river from here.

The Ram Jhoola Or The Shivanand Jhoola

On Triveni Ghat In the evening The Sandhya Aaarti just like Haridwar is performed here too. But it is not as gorgeous as Haridwar.But the scenic beauty of this place gave it another dimension.

Sandhya Aarti On Triveni Ghat

Rishikunda and Raghunathji Mandir are adjacent to it.About ½ km away is Bharat Mandir built by Adiguru Shankarcharya. The main deity is Lord Vishnu, carved out one piece Shaligram.It was destroyed by Taimur in 1398 and it was rebuilt afterwards.One thing caught my mind, in Rishikesh all the four brothers are worshipped in different temples. Raghunathji and Bharat mandir in Triveni Ghat area, Laxman mandir near Lachman Jhoola and Shatrughna mandir near Muni ki reti area.

Rishi Kunda and Raghunathji Temple -Triveni Ghat

The Bharat Mandir

The Shiva who wore shoes! It has been mentioned in the small museum adjacent to the temple .

The Ferry Ghat From Ram Jhoola

From tourist point of views Rishikesh can be divided into 3 parts.
1. Laxman Jhoola and adjoining mandirs.
2. Ram Jhoola and adjoining ashrams and Yoga study centers

3. Triveni Ghat and adjoining mandirs.

Sun, The Boat and The River

Giant Statue Of Lord Shiva

Famous Chotiwala Restaurant

Giant Statue Of Lord Shiva

|| ॐ नमः शिवाय ||

Landscape Of Rishikesh

Haridwar....The Gateway To The Four Pilgrimages.....

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 11:18:00 +0000

Haridwar....The Abode Of Lord Shiva....

Haridwar,a holy place of the Saints and Sagas,where the Holy Ganges is revered,is located n the foothills of the Himalayas, represents the point where the Ganga reaches the plains. Haridwar is an ancient pilgrimage site, held in reverence for centuries. The Chinese pilgrim Hyuen Tsang who visited India in the first millennium CE, describes Haridwar as Mayura, on the eastern banks of the Ganges. Several temples and ashrams dot this town and a visit to Haridwar is like stepping into a totally different world.

A sage in Haridwar..

Legend has it that Bhagiratha, brought the Ganges into the earth, and into this point where his ancestors were burnt to ashes by the curse of the sage Kapila. Kapilastaan, a spot in Haridwar is pointed to as Kapila's hermitage. Haridwar was once known as Gangadwara. Haridwar (and Rishikesh) represents the gateway to the Himalayan pilgrimage shrines of Gangotri,Yamunotri,Badrina

th ,Kedarnath. The pilgrimage to the Himalayan shrines begins only when the sun reaches the zodiac sign of Aries. Haridwar is also the site of celebration of the Kumbha Mela, once in twelve years, when Jupiter transits to the zodiac sign of Aquarius.

A Flower Market On Ram Ghat..In the evening

The five sacred bathing spots in Haridwar are Gangadwara, Kankhal, Nila Parvata, Bilwa Theertha and Kusavarta. The main ghat at Haridwar is known as Hari-ki-Pairi (known for a footprint of Vishnu on a stone in a wall). Nearby is the Gangadwara temple, the most important of the several temples that dot this town. The Ganga Aarti which is celebrated at 7 pm each night, is a spectacular sight, when the aarti ceremony is performed at all temples in Haridwar at the same instant

The Evening Aarti Of Ganga @ Haridwar...

Crowd of devotees for the Aarti.

Hundreds throng to the ghats at Hari-ki-Pairi to participate in this festival. Offerings of lamps and flowers are made to the river immediately following this ceremony and it is a moving sight to watch hundreds of miniature lamps float along the river.

The Lights are being flown in Ganga

Near Haridwar are the towns of Mayapuri and Kankhal. Kankhal houses the Daksheswara temple, said to be the site of Daksha's yagna, which was destroyed by Shiva.

One of many temples in Haridwar.

Dakhsa Mahadev Mandir – 4 Km from Haridwar in Kankhal ..You all know about the death of Sati and how Bhole Baba demolished Dakhsa Yagna…A Shivji Mandir is at that place and most revered place in Haridwar.

Parad Shiv mandir

Parad Shiv Ling @ daksheshwara Temple

Harihar Ashram – 3 km from Haridwar, Acharya Gaddhi of Shri Panchdasnam Juna

akhara, now Swami Avdheshanand Giri ji heads it. The main attraction of this is 150 kg Shivling. The other attraction to me is the huge Rudrakhsa Tree right at the entrance and it is being worshiped.

Harihar Ashram

Rudraksha tree @ Harihar Ashram

Entering In The Heaven...Kashmir Valley...

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 10:43:00 +0000

Crossing Into The Kashmir Valley

The drive over the Zoji La (3,500m) into the Sindh Valley (the Kashmir Valley’s largest tributary) took us into a green paradise after the dust and rubble of the previous one and a half days. Our first glimpse of the valley really was jaw-dropping. The U-shaped valley is vast, speckled with trees, lush grass and interspersed with exposed slopes of solid rock. Snow caps the mountain peaks and the scent of pine drifts through the window where before there was only dust. It finally felt like we were in Kashmir proper and the greenery flourished as we drove past paddy fields towards Srinagar.

Crossing into the Kashmir Valley

Sonmarg

Sonmarg valley Between kargil and Srinagar

Sonmarg valley

Cosmos Flower in Sonmarg valley

Taking a shikara across Srinagar’s Dal Lake

Arriving in Srinagar after two days of dusty roads was like crossing the finish line of a marathon. Crinkling out of the jeep, we were guided into a shikara and paddled across Dal Lake to our houseboat. The shikara has got to be the ultimate mode of transport. There is nothing more peaceful in this world than being gently ferried through the lotus flowers with a mountain backdrop and dinner and a comfortable bed waiting!

The Royal Palace houseboat on Dal Lake

The Royal Palace houseboat was our home for the next four days. Not bad eh?! This luxury houseboat is a throwback to colonial times when the British weren’t allowed to own land in Kashmir, although they could stay on the water. In typically British fashion, they went about making themselves as comfortable as possible by building floating palaces in which to live.

The Road Through Kargil

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 08:42:00 +0000

The Road Through Kargil

The road from Leh to Srinagar cuts right through Kargil, the most important site of the 1999 Kargil War, which kicked off when Pakistani soldiers and Kashmiri freedom fighters crossed the Line of Control. The clash occurred both in Kargil and along the ridges overlooking this strategically important section of the Leh-Srinagar road. It was the first ground conflict between India and Pakistan since they both developed nuclear weapons and so became the focus of media coverage around the world.

Driving along this section of road was nerve-wracking, mostly due to our over-active imaginations. Bunkers filled with rifle-toting Indian soldiers line the road and the atmosphere is further intensified by the oppressive dryness of the air and land which sucks the moisture from your tongue as you breathe.

A friendly soldier guarding the Operation Vijay memorial near Drass

Operation Vijay was a successful Indian attempt to push the infiltrators back across the border during the 1999 Kargil War. This memorial to the Indian soldiers who lost their lives in the operation has recently been opened to the public. It is near Drass, which also holds the unenviable record of being the second-coldest inhabited place on earth, after Oymyakon, Siberia.

Kargil Town

Mulbekh

The Indian soldiers guarding the gate were very friendly and happy to have their photo taken. Interestingly, the army and Jammu & Kashmir tourism department are now working to promote the area as an adventure tourism destination with plans for a golf course, pony trekking, mountaineering and high-altitude camping. Nearby Kargil is already popular with domestic tourists who come to pay their respects to those who lost their lives in 1999, see damage done by shells dropped, and visit Tiger Hill, site of the fiercest battles.

Drass

Tiger Hill

Indian Army Chopper

....................Continued

Leh.....Srinagar Via Khardung La......On The Roof Of The World......

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Fri, 28 May 2010 18:28:00 +0000

Riding On The World's Most Scenic Road....

Barley field.....

The journey from Leh to Srinagar takes you from desert to lush valleys, from a Buddhist region to an Islamic one.

Lamayuru is set in the midst of some rather strange scenery. The road through the mountains dips into a gorge that in turn opens up into moonscape badlands, with rounded, yellow pinnacles and meditation caves carved into the mountainside. Lamayuru - the oldest monastery in Ladakh, dating from the 11th century – perches quietly near the top of the mountain, overlooking the badlands. Its whitewashed walls glowed in the evening sun, which cast eerie shadows across the landscape below as we settled into our hotel for the night.

Lamayuru monastery

Lamayuru Monastery buildings

At Fotu La, the highest point of the Leh to Srinagar road....

Early the next day, about half an hour from Lamayuru, we reached the Fotu La (‘la’ means ‘pass’). At 4,100m it was the highest point of our journey. Compared with the Khardung La near Leh, the world’s highest motorable pass at 5,602m, which comes complete with souvenir shops, cafes and thousands of prayer flags, the Fotu La is pleasantly modest. There is only this sign Craig is standing next to, a few prayer flags and a satellite dish. There weren’t any other cars around either.

Fotu La

30kms short of Kargil...

The road between Leh and Srinagar used to be narrow and treacherous. Part of the army’s job is to help maintain it, as well as protect the border against militant insurgents from both Pakistan and Kashmir. Lengthy convoys of around 20 army trucks frequently passed us, in both directions. They invariably kicked up plenty of dust but their presence was vaguely reassuring.

Cattle and ther road in Nubra valley

Large-Heading out towards Kargil

33 kilometres before Islamic Kargil, Mulbekh is the last outpost of Buddhism in Jammu & Kashmir. A large relief of Buddha is carved into this jut of rock and Buddhists travel many miles to pay their respects here, but there were plenty of men wearing Muslim-style lunghis and kurtas in the village as well.

Road To Kargiil...

Flowers Everywhere,The scenery also began to take on tinge of green as our journey took us to lower altitudes and rainier climes.

. Continued....

Leh...Srinagar Via Khar Dung La...On The Roof Of World....

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Mon, 24 May 2010 10:03:00 +0000

Crossing The World's Highest Motorable Road

Climbing to Khardung La by road highest motor able road in the world at 18,380 feet gives a beautiful view of the surroundings.. Thanks to the HIMAL Road Runners of the Indian Army.

“Ladakh lies at the crossroads of the ancient trade routes from the Indian subcontinent to the great East-West trade highway or the ‘Silk Route.’ The traditional trade caravan routes traversed the passes of Zoji La (La means pass in Ladakhi), Namik La and Fotu La from Kashmir, and Baralacha La, Pang La and Taglang La from Himachal across the Great Himalayan and Zanskar ranges into the Indus River valley, converging at Leh.

From here it was possible to move to Tibet and Baltistan. Northwards from Leh, trade caravans carrying pashmina shawls, spices, opium and saffron cross the Ladakh range through the Khardung La or Chang La, traversed the forbidding Karakoram (meaning: Place of Black Gravel) range through the Karakoram pass and thence to the central Asian towns of Yarkand and Kashgar on the Silk Route. The caravans brought back precious stones, hashish, tobacco and silk.”

'Khardung La' (''la'' means ''pass'' in Tibetan) (elevation 5359 m) is a high mountain pass located in the Ladakh region, Jammu and Kashmir, India. The international spelling is used here, but it is locally spelt "Khardong La".

The pass on the Ladakh Range lies north of Leh and is the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra valleys. The Siachen Glacier lies partway up the latter valley. Built in 1976, it was opened to motor vehicles in 1988 and has since seen many automobile, motorbike and mountain biking expeditions.

Maintained by the Indian Army's Corps, the pass is strategically important to India as it is used to carry essential supplies to the Siachen. Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Chinese Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen in the area north of the pass, mute witnesses to history. During World War II there was a futile attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.

Khardung La is situated 37 km by road from Leh. The first 24 km, as far as the South Pullu check point, are paved. From there to the North Pullu check point about 15 km beyond the pass the roadway is primarily loose rock, dirt, and occasional rivulets of snow melt. However, this pass is in better repair than many of the surrounding passes (Tanglang La, for example). From North Pullu into the Nubra Valley, the road is very well maintained (except in a very few places where washouts or falling rock occur). Hired vehicles (2 and 4-wheel-drive), heavy trucks, and motorcycles regularly travel into the Nubra Valley, though special permits may need to be arranged for travellers to make the journey.

Our trip to Nubra Valley took us via the highest motorable road in the world through the Khardungla Pass. We set off around 9ish, climbed up to Khardungla at 5603m - the highest we have been so far - and then down into Nubra Valley.

Of all the places I've been to in my life, I'd rate Nubra Valley as among the most desirable places to visit - of course, during season, because during winters it becomes bitterly cold and unapproachable if the road closes. Both the view of Leh town as we left it and climbed to Khardungla, as well as the beauty of Nubra Valley as we descended into it are etched in my mind.

The Shyok River kept us company as we descended into the valley - grey, wide, winding and breathtakingly beautiful. No amount of descriptive writing or photography can do justice to Nubra Valley, which, cliched as it sounds, has to be seen and experienced to be believed.

Numerous rhyming signs scattered along the Leh-Srinagar route helped to keep our minds off the treacherous roads. Speeding seems to be the biggest road safety issue in Jammu & Kashmir. This is even more worrying when you see the standard of the roads, but signs such as “Be gentle on my curves”, “If you are married, divorce speed” and “Mountains are a pleasure if you drive with leisure” gave us good chuckles between speeding Tata lorries and precipitous bends. The most disconcerting sign, though, is found along the Pak-Indo border just past Kargil: “Caution: you are under enemy observation.”

Beauty In The Valley

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Thu, 20 May 2010 10:50:00 +0000

Play Ground Of Gods And Godesses

Trespassing their celestial abode was avoided although shepherds did take the liberty to graze their cattle here.

Legends associate this valley with the area from where Hanumanji of Ramayana collected. 'Sanjeevani' herbs to revive

Lakshmana, the younger brother of Rama. Hanuman had to visit far-flung areas in his search for the life-saving herbs, some named after him."

The Valley was introduced to the world as the Valley of Flowers by Frank S, Smith - mountaineer, explorer, botanist who camped here for several weeks in the monsoon of 1937 and did valuable exploratory work. He authored a book called "The Valley of Flowers" which unveiled the beauty and floral splendours of the valley and thus threw open the doors of this verdant jewel to nature-enthusiasts all over the world.

In 1939, Miss Margarate Legge, a botanist deputed by the botanical gardens of Edinburgh arrived at the valley for further studies. While she was traversing some rocky slopes to collect flowers, she slipped off and was lost for ever in the garden of the gods. Her sister later visited the valley and erected a memorial on the spot where she was buried by the locals. The

thoughtful memorial is still there and the lines inscribed on the marble slab read:

"I will lift mine eyes
unto the Hills
from whence cometh my strength"

Many streams flowing from glacial deposits in and around the Valley irrigate it and merge finally into the Pushpawati river.While exploring the Valley, the smaller streams can be easily crossed by wading across but the larger ones need to be crossed on log bridges. In case those have not been put up in time, thick glacial bridges across the streams also serve the purpose.

There are no side tracks for viewing colonies of flowers away from the main track so you can either try to wade Through

knee-deep flowers and foliage, crushing some on the way or stay on the single track running through the length of the valley without seeing the best.

You may however stand on a raised vantage point to get a better view of flowers all around. Within the main Valley; there are many smaller valleys carved out by streams of melting glaciers. On the banks of these Valleys, you can encounter the most exciting pattern of flowers. One such Valley exists along the Donagair Garh, the last of many streams. On its banks flower some of the most magnificent plants. Every moist place holds its quota of glorious flowers which grace the still air with their subtle fragrance

The Valley of Flowers is flanked on either side by majestic peaks, many capped with snow. The Pushpawati river, emerging from

the glacial deposits around Rataban and Nilgiri ranges, cuts through the Valley and divides it into two sectors.The major

portion of the Valley is on its right bank and is a paradise fortrekkers

The Valley of Flowers is an alpine valley, and has been formed by the retreating glaciers whose periodic advances and

retreat pulverised hard rocks, resulting in a smooth U-shaped valley which was later colonised by numerous plants adopting

themselves to the harsh climatic conditions prevailing there.The Valley remains snow covered from November to May but when the ice envelope thaws on June it is a signal for profusion of colours hidden in petals of alpine during July and August. Some important flowering plants having tremendous medicinal values are: Anemone, Geranium, Marsh, Marigold, Primula, Potentilla, Geum, Aster. Lilium, Himalayanblue poppy, Aconite, Delphinium, Ranunculus, Corydalis, Inula, Saussurea abvallata, Campanula. Pedicularis, Trysimum, Morina, Impetiens, Bistorta. Ligularia. Anaphalis Saxifraga, Lobelia, Thermophis, Trolises. Aquilogia, Codonopsis. Dactylorhiza, Cypripedium. Straw berries and Rhododendron etc.

Apart from the flowering plants, wild animals like Himalayan birds, phigents, butterflies, Tendula, Musk deer, Bharal Mountain

goats), Himalayan bear, tail less rat etc. are enchancing the beauty too. The Valley of Flowers is an irresitible treat for

naturalists, ecologists. environmentalists, zoologists, ornithologists, trekkers. tourists and pilgrims.

The trek continues along Pushpawati. A couple of kilometres ahead, the river is crossed overto its right bank on another

bridge and this trail goes upto the Valley of Flowers. Snow bridges can be seen spanning the river but their strength should

be properly judged if they are to be used to cross the river

The Valley becomes accessible from late April when the snow starts melting and flowing down the buttrssnes and gullies. The

spring avalanches pouring down the slopes provide appropriate moisture for flowers. The moist turf begins to pulsate with

life and from the dead herbage of the previous summer, innumerable shoots of countless plants rise expectantly as though in anticipation of the warm life-giving breath of the approaching monsoon.

Primulas cover up shelves and terraces in colour of the most heavenly French blue. Their soft petals covered with dew, like

galaxies of pearls, emanate sweetest of scents. In the lush meadows drifts of snow-white Anemones drench the ground.

Anaphalles and Potentillas start establishing their colonies, With the arrival of rains in June, Balsam, Geranium,

Pedicularis and many other species, mostly in pink and red set the dominating colour pattern of the Valley without subduing

other seasonal shades of yellow, purple and white

Although the main land of the Valley is about 4 kms. from Ghanghria, flowers and foliage in exotic varieties can be spotted

throughout the route. Immediately after crossing the Laxman Ganga, colonies of blue Hackelia uncinata, commonly known as

'forget me not' can be seen in the midst of shrubs and foliage along the roadride. Primulas, Morinas, wild roses and many

other species are quite abundant.

The pinkish glow of the Valley can be attributed to the large colonies of Androsace. Marsh orchid. Geranium. Pediculsris and

the carpetting Thymus. all in near pink. Splashes of golden lily and creamy bell-shaped Codonopsis are also seen.The pink

Pedicularis gives way to its yellow cousin-the mainstay of the August bloom. Yellow flowers bedeck the Valley as July

proceeds - Pedicularis, Grandiflora. Ligularia, Saxifraga and Potentillas. The Potentillas are the first to appear and last

to disappear in the Valley.

Sunrise

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Thu, 20 May 2010 06:31:00 +0000

The stillness of the early morning scene enables me to take in and enjoy many

things which pass me by during the bustle of the day. First, there are the scents,

which seem even more generous with their offerings than they are in the evening.

Valley of Flowers.....One Day In The Paradise

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Wed, 19 May 2010 17:08:00 +0000

At Valley of Flowers Gate

It was a cold and cloudy morning in Ghangaria. Packing some nuts and raisins in day packs, we had a quick breakfast at a tiny restaurant and in reduced visibility through the mist, we all set out to the Valley of Flowers. It began to drizzle lightly and the entire path ahead was looking beautiful.

Soon we came across a scenic bridge across the stream..This route was much easier when compared to the hemkund route. The rocky mountains looked really beautiful and majestic. Because it was September we did not have to walk on any glacier, but passed though one glacier on the way. After walking for about 3 to4 km we entered the actual valley. The flowers had greatly reduced but the entire setting was extremely scenic. The beautiful green/yellow/red colored valley, surrounded by mountains with trees at the lower levels, brown and grey soil in the middle and then the white snow at the top.

There was no sun and it was hard to describe the way in which light played with the appearance of meadows and flowers alike. It was incredibly beautiful. The hills along the river were dotted with flowers that appear quite pink, almost as if they have gone amok. The dew was hanging on to their edges, as if glued for decoration. They look towards me the way interrogators would, glancing with intensity.

In the deep ravine, the roar of the River Pushpavathi can be heard. I glanced back and stopped to espy the beautiful mountain town of Ghangaria from a height. I knew there is no chance for exhaustion on this beautiful route.

Continuing the climb, I got closer to the River Pushpavati flowing. A short descent and I crossed a bridge over the gushing waters. Then the steep ascent began. Before long, I chanced upon a remnant of a fascinating Himalayan glacier. It reminds me of a decorated cake with its icing.

It was like Waking Up to rolling green hills and billowy white clouds, flowers swaying in the fields all this seen as though in a dream. I was speechless. In the midst of such beauty, in a moment, so many moments came alive. It was a rapture of a rhapsody.Under the overhang of a large rock, we huddled to listen to our guide relate the story of Mary Legge who discovered the valley and eventually became a part of it. She slipped and died in the valley in 1939. Someone suggested that we should go and pay our respects at her memorial.

As the guide with utmost reverence recited the words inscribed on her grave: "I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills from whence cometh my help.” There was no need to go to her memorial; she was there, everywhere. It was a lungful of life and at 13,000 feet; it felt like heaven. With Atul prancing by my side, the thought of finding pretty damsels in heaven were pushed aside. He and Amol made sure that they hung over, around and under every species of flower to get themselves photographed.

It drizzled again and then followed the sun peeping through the clouds unexpectedly. Through the rest of the day the pattern continued: following sunlight, intermittent drizzle, mist, and more precipitation. The misty mountains through the sun rays gave me glimpses of the enchanting beauty around. The continuous change in the intensity of light at that height was enthralling.

At every turning, there was a new surprise. The sight of the snow clad peaks particularly made my heart leap with joy. The cascading waterfalls was a sight to behold. At certain places, the path was narrow, and slippery. I saw a few locals working at a spot where there has been a recent landslide because of rains. Nodding heads in acknowledgment, exchanging smiles and accepting a few word of advice from them to be cautious and to ensure an early return, I proceeded further.

I continued trudging the final ascent to reach the entrance to the Valley. A variety of flowers, dominated by pink and purple Balsam fill to the brim on either side of the narrow trek path. I reached the entrance and looked up, and stopped abruptly, speechless at the breathtaking sight! I heared my fellow trekker gasp and whisper, “It’s heavenly!”

Picturesque mountain landscape of rich vegetation with the ephemeral clouds wrapping the mountain tops was an amazing sight. The mountains were of different shades of green, some bare and the peaks of ones at a distance, snow-clad. Within the Valley itself there were different smaller valleys. Streams of water flew right down into the River below. There were areas of treeless green meadows which were as charming as the wooded areas.

Hundreds of species of wild flowers were everywhere and these fields in the misty mountains had a mesmerizing effect on me. No matter how carefully I walked along the narrow path, a few sadly get crushed under my feet. Wild buttercups, Himalayan Knotweeds, Gentians, Rhodiolas, wild daisies, and from what I recognized, varieties of Campanula, lilies (also cobra lilies), milk parsleys, primulas, potentillas and balsam are found aplenty. I recalled reading the Blue Himalayan Poppy and Brahm Kamal are rare species found only at these great heights.

I felt sheer joy amidst the variety of flowers in the enchanting Valley. Time flies in the resplendent fields of wildflowers. I watched the snow clad Rataban peak and the gleaming Nilgiri Parbat posing majestically in the distance.I got an urge to lie down on a small patch of grass. Initially I stretched, face upwards, and watched the sky scattered with indolent clouds. Cool breeze blows. When the sunlight gets into my eyes, I turned my face sideways and see a field of flowers: Primula, Potentillas, Geraniums, Campions, Bellflowers, Rhubarbs, Whorlflowers, Balsam, and a variety of other flowers, some quivering and others gracefully swaying in the cool breeze.

The picture of the Valley with its scenery of the mist on the trail, the sea of flowers, melting glaciers, streams with gushing waters, green meadows, snow-clad mountains and their peaks looming against the horizon is aesthetically stimulating. It permanently etched a deep impression on my mind. The beauty and serenity of the place captured me in a spell. I was completely connected with the surroundings. I feel then every bit of effort that I took to get to the top is well worth the endeavor and the weary feet.

It was now time to get back, and I remembered Ruskin Bond’s words:

…the infinity of mountains, the feeling of

space – limitless space – can only be

experienced by living in the mountains

On The Trail--Paradise On Earth-valley Of Flowers

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Wed, 19 May 2010 06:54:00 +0000

A Path To Heaven

We continued trudging along. Tired towards the end, the journey of the last 2-3 kms only was more steep but there was no time to rest my weary feet as we were keen on reaching Ghangaria before sunset. Then we came across a helipad area, and a cluster of tents.We knew from what we had been told that this was an indication that we have almost reached.In between gasps I tried and not look ahead nor think about what lies ahead of the bend. I stopped so often and each time it was a task to get up and walk again. My friend has deserted me by now and I was alone. Every heartbeat telling me this is the last. I was grim by this point but continued on into the setting sun, cresting several passes, forging way ahead in to the dark valley.

As I left the last pit stop, I saw the camping ground with dotted colors of the tents. It was a feeling of relief till my eyes wander over to a milestone, tucked away in the grey corner “GHANGAHIA 1KM”. Various ailments had already reached a sort of silently-shrieking crescendo – my back was gone, muscles stretched to their limits and I now remembered the song” Comfortably Numb”. In between these wandering thoughts, I surprised myself by making it to Ghangaria.

We took about 7 hours to walk up the 13 kms and reached Ghangria at 4.30 pm.Ghangria has a helipad and some space for camping. Half a km from the helipad is the one streat village of Ghangria lined with hotels,resturants and a Gurudwara. Gurudwara offers free accomodation and food to all. We found a basic room right accross the gurudwara. Ghangria has power supply only between 5 am to 7 am and 7pm to 9.30 pm.By evening Ghangria turns very cold Though people say that its wiser to visit VOF before Hemkund because that gives greater time for your body to acclimatize.

Ghangria

In the twilight, at one point, I watched the fog clearing up and voila..I saw before me just a few feet away from the lodge a huge mountain side, like a tall wall looming right in front of me. I fele it real close like a spectacular wallpaper on my PC monitor but that was real and beautiful nature! It was an exhilarating experience spending time in the midst of these towering peaks some of which are at a height of more than 20,000 feet above sea level.I covered up well to protect from the freezing weather to go out for some early dinner in anticipation of having an early night in Ghangaria. I was just one night away from the day that was to dawn when I would be in the Valley of Flowers finally. With pleasant thoughts of anticipation of that day, I fell asleep.

Valley Of Flowers …. A Rare Natural Gem

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Mon, 17 May 2010 18:02:00 +0000

On An Almost Heaven's Trek

Next morning the excitement was palpable as we all got ready for the great day. The route looked funny on the map because the road maps failed to show the mountain ranges that characterized the way from Joshimath to Govindghat. It was stunningly beautiful and we paused to capture captivating moments. The road was quite bad as we navigated slowly and crazily near the precipice due to the danger of falling rocks. Mercifully the rain held out as our convoy headed to Govindghat, 21 kms away from Joshimath. This is also the route to Badrinath.

Govind Ghat

We walked through the town of Govind Ghat.With backpacks of cameras and lenses, we made our way through the lanes of this town. I was keen to get away and start the trek. That was the moment, standing on the suspension bridge, the shiny meandering trail spanning across ridges till it was lost to the sight. It seemed so far away.

Govind Ghat

Journeying from Govindghat Ghangaria would mean an ascent of 1,220 metres (over 4,000 feet).

Suspension bridge over Alaknanda @ Govind Ghat

We crossed the river and began our trek our 13 kms to Ghangaria , the base camp for valley of Flowers as well as Hemkund Sahib.Only 30 minutes from the edge of Govindghat, I was in sparsely populated land, passing an orchard containing a gaggle of children practicing stone throwing. The first part of the trek I had read was difficult. Between swallows of breath, I stopped to capture the essence. One km away from Govindghat's main road, the zigzag mule track begins at Pulna and I noticed it has a mark of being 13 kms away from Ghangaria.

It started to drizzle and then pour.Filled with enthusiasm, I was so enamored with the beauty of the place that, save for a brief stop by at a roadside kiosk to buy a plastic raincoat, I began the trek right away. The raincoat came of use as it kept drizzling on and off during the rest of the journey. Though it was cool, the looming noon sun was beating down on us mercilessly, and made us wish we had begun the trek early that morning.I trekked relatively easily, carrying my backpack for the first two hours during which I ascended about 400 m. or so. At one point, during a steep climb, I suddenly realized that I've got to ascend more than 800 m for the day and then began to acutely feel the strain of the weight of my backpack.

Trek Route To Ghangria.

After trekking for 3-4 kms, we crossed the beautiful Bhuyundar village, a cluster of modest houses with the backdrop of misty mountains.

Bhuyundar village

For those who are not in the mood for trekking, there's a choice of hiring an animal. For that matter, there are crudely assembled palanquins available for the benefit of the faint hearted (pilgrims mostly, as I believe hikers are tough); and to carry children, also pittoos. Pittoos, porters of mostly Nepali origin, carry kids of the pilgrims in cane-woven baskets on their backs.

Those who can't make the walk, opt for mules.

The songs and the jokes were gone. Water has seeped through the socks. Spirits were still holding out but for how long? We had not even reached the half way mark. We had a light meal of maggie which was rejuvenating. March onwards, that’s what the slogan was. Mercifully the rain has eased out somewhat and the pathway is a bit more straight and manageable. Leaving the roar of the river behind, we take a turn at the mountain end as the mist lifts unveiling the magic of the valley. Negotiating through waterfalls on slippery edges, the roaring river down below seemed like an eventuality that I did not want to happen. The rain came once again and the plastic hoods were back on the heads.

We stopped often to admire the exotic flora and the many spots of cascading waterfalls from the great heights into the valley before joining the roaring waters of the flowing Lakshman Ganga. The river was flowing almost parallel to the trek path and gives me company most of the way. The long journey was a bit tiring but beautiful all the way.

River Laxman Ganga

March onwards, that’s what the slogan was. Mercifully the rain has eased out somewhat and the pathway was a bit more straight and manageable. Leaving the roar of the river behind, we took a turn at the mountain end as the mist lifts unveiling the magic of the valley. Negotiating through waterfalls on slippery edges, the roaring river down below seemed like an eventuality that I did not want to happen. The rain came once again and the plastic hoods were back on the heads.

Lines blur as the mist rolled over from all sides. The rain was unrelenting and limbs tired. Pauses were frequent and longer.Another river joined us and we walked in opposite directions. She was aggressive on her own mission. Twice,we took tea-breaks at shacks during the 7 hours trek. I watched pilgrims looking dreamy through the mist plodding along the steep trek path, wearing colorful raincoats. Both times,We chose a spot that has the River Lakshman Ganga running close to the shacks. The effect of the gurgling river has a soothing effect. The marvelous feeling of sipping tea in such surroundings was something that I can't experience even in 5-star surroundings.

Ghangaria was still miles away but we knew that we have crossed the half way mark. We crossed fellow travelers on their way back. On mules they pushed their way through, hanging precariously on the edge of the saddle. Tired as I was, still happy to be on my foot and not on an animal that has a mind of its own.

Valley Of Flowers-Paradise On Earth--

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Mon, 17 May 2010 09:04:00 +0000

The Approach To The Paradise

Eternity Begins Here

“In my mountain wandering I have not seen
a more beautiful valley than this…
this valley of peace and perfect beauty
where the human spirit may find repose.”
- Frank Smythe

Eternity begins here... in the Valley of Flowers. A land of endless meadows, with insurmountable snowcapped peaks bearing icy glaciers that burst into streams, and a background of birdsong. Flowers carpet the entire valley and the leaves form a porous umbrella. The upper Bhyundar Valley earned international recognition after being explored by Frank Smythe, as part of the Kamet Expedition in 1931, and then in 1937 when he made a herbarium collection. Frank Smythe, in his description of this valley said, "Others will visit it, analyse it and probe it, but whatever their opinions, to me it will remain a Valley of Flowers, a valley of peace and perfect beauty where the human spirit may find repose."

Delhi – Haridwar – Rishikesh – Devprayag – Srinagar – Rudraprayag – Karnaprayag – Nandprayag – Chamoli – Pipalkoti – Joshimath – Auli – Govindghat – Ghangaria –

Valley of Flowers.

Dev Prayag-Confluence of Alaknanda and the Bhagirathi,

Rudra Prayag-confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Mandakini.

After reaching Rishikesh we started our journey towards Chamoli by our hired car.A long journey of almost 6 hours via Dev Prayag and Srinagar to Rudra Prayag.We had an overnight stay@ Rudra Prayag @ GMVN run resort.The next day we started our journey,early in the morning from Rudra Prayag through scenic Himalayan landscape through Karna Prayag -situated at the confluence of the Alaknanda and Pindar rivers and Nand Prayag-Confluence of Alaknanda adn Nandakini Rivers.

KarnaPrayag-Confluence of Alaknanda(r) and Pindar(bottom)

Nand Prayag-confluence of Alaknanda and Nandakini

Tributaries of Ganga give company along most of the journey.After reaching Chamoli we had a nice lunch and started further to Joshi Math.

Road we followed from Chamoli to Joshi Math

We faced a land slide on the way from Chamoli to Joshi Math and got stuck up mid way for nearly 4 hours.

Land Slide on the way from Chamoli to Joshi Math

After reaching to Joshi Math we decided to have an overnight stay because of the land slide issue.In the early morning we started for Govind Ghat,which is on an hour's journey from Joshi Math.While travelling from Joshimath to the Valley of Flowers, you will find the main road that goes to Badrinath. Almost in the midway of this main road a minor road branches off to Gobindghat considered to be the starting point of the Valley. Once you have reached so far a trek of another 14 km along steep, narrow yet well defined mountain track will take you to base camp at Ghangaria, a small settlement from where the Valley is just about 3km away. This journey from Gobindghat to Ghangaria can be travelled between 4 to 8 hours, off course this depends on your level of fitness!

Govind Ghat

The trek Route from Govind Ghat to Ghangria

Pulna is the first village on the way up. Another nine km trek, punctuated with waterfalls, wild flowers, forests and beautiful landscapes, takes one past Bhyundar — a small migratory village surrounded by dense moist temperate forest — and then a steep ascent to Govind Dham, just three kms from the valley that is known in Indian mythology as the ‘garden of Indra'

There is nothing greater then watching kids in joy and happiness

Tso Moriri - A Blue Pearl In Highland

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Sun, 16 May 2010 12:50:00 +0000

High Altitude Tso Moriri

Changthang is a vast high altitude plateau situated in the north-east of the region, bordering Tibet. The altitude varies between 14 to 15000 feet. It is the home of Changpa nomad tribes, a pastoral community who eke out living from their flock of pashmina goats and sheep. Temperature during winter falls below - 50 degrees C. It is a desolate wilderness, a haven of tranquility. No soul is seen for miles and miles. Occasionally tents of the nomads and their herd only are met with in these astounding landscapes.

In such absolute wilderness and an ocean of silence, at an altitude of 4572 m, 240 km from Leh lies a serene sapphire-blue lake, Tso Moriri, alive with variety of water birds during summer months. The region has many hot water springs and.abundance of wildlife enjoying their undisturbed habitat. There are three different routes to reach the plateau and Tso Moriri. Route that follows upstream of Indus River is the easiest, shortest and without any high altitude pass. We follow this route. It is a lonely and long way to the Lake.

On a beautiful tuesday morning,cool and pleasant with clear blue sky, we were all set for the night out and camping in the farthest land in Ladakh.On Leh-Manali highway, past Karoo we reached Upashi. Here we left the Manali highway and continue along picturesque Indus valley,past Himya and Kere we reached hot water spring at Chumathank on the bank of Indus.Steaming hot water oozes out at several places from the spring. From one of the locations it is piped to the bathrooms for bathing. The water of the spring has therapeutic value.

After a drive of 5 km we left Indus valley, crossed Indus River and turned east. We now followed a small singing brook passing through a narrow valley at times widening but mostly narrow with bare rocky hills staring from above.There was rich green vegetation on the valley floor and around villages. The rose-bush - the omnipresent flowering plant of Ladakh,was in bloom and showed its presence everywhere; in sheltered pockets and in bare rocks devoid of soil and the air was filled with their pleasant aroma.

The valley opened up at Kiari, became broad for some distance then closed into a narrow terrain. We reach a picturesque spot of Namshang on the edge of a stream carpeted with green grass on which stood a small parachute tent restaurant, providing snacks and hot cup of tea. This was a lone shop in a lonely place.Few pasmina sheep wee grazing nearby in a green patch.we were in Changthang Plateau, the high altitude bald pastures between 14 to 15000 feet elevation. This was an expansive empty space in the tranquil wilderness, where wild animals move about freely with the time and space entirely to themselves or to the animals of the nomadic herders.

We resumed our journey on the dirt road and after a short drive suddenly we saw a vast beautiful lake with clear blue waters surrounded by hills. The pretty lake dominated the landscape in which brahmini ducks and geese were wading in the shallow waters.

A small village Korzok with its hilltop monastery is the only habitation in the area. We walked along the periphery of the lake beyond Korzok Village to watch the amber-pink glow of the dying day. The sun was about to set. The long rays of setting sun turned the lake shimmer with golden hue. The low hills in the surround got lit up with faint glow. It was a beautiful end of the day. Soon after night felt and it was all quiet.

We settled for the tent colony called the Nomadic Life Camp (Tsomo riri), Korzok for our night sojourn. The double flapped, double bed tents with comfortable mattresses and comforters tents look brand new and were lined in two rows. It is a neat campus with hygienic toilets with flowing water taps and flushes. A water channel passes in between two rows of tents which makes the site more romantic. It is a nice tent colony with friendly and hospitable owner and workers. The food served was rich and tasty; organic as is claimed by the owner.

It was glorious to be out here far away from home at an altitude of 14500 ft on the bank of Tso Moriri to spend the night in the Korzok village of Changthang plateau.

It was a long and dreary night; extremely cold; temperature falling below zero degree.

It was an unforgettable experience. And I can not thank god enough for this great experience. I was amazed how the Changpa herdmen live in these high altitude cold and absolute wilderness and love it! I believe they have Angels for company and are in commune with God all the time. I feel that here the earth is very close to heaven and divide is so thin that you can feel His presence and hear Him talk to you.

Colours Of Nature At Pangong Tso

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Fri, 14 May 2010 07:40:00 +0000

Peacock Colors In Pangong Tso

Pangong Tso is a high altitude lake in the Himalayas situated at a height of about 4,500 m. It is 134 km (83 mi) long and extends from India to China. 60% of the length of the lake lies in China. The lake is 5 km wide at its broadest point.Pangong Tso can be reached in a five-hour drive from Leh, most of it on a rough and dramatic mountain road. The road traverses the third-highest pass in the world, the Changla pass, where army sentries and a small teahouse greet visitors. Road down from Changla Pass leads through crossing river called Pagal Naala or “The Crazy Stream”. The spectacular lakeside is open during the tourist season, from May to September. An Inner Line Permit is required to visit the lake as it lies on the Sino-Indian Line of Actual Control. lake is said to change more than 15 shades during the day!

That’s Pangong Tso-a lake known for its calm, clear and unending expanse. It is the biggest lake in Asia with its area falling under both India and China. One third of it is in India and remaining in China. It is 130 km long and 7 km wide.

Pangong Tso-a lake is located on the Changtang plateau in eastern Ladakh, around 140 km South-east of Leh, at an altitude of over 14000 feet.

Pangong Tso is also known as hollow lake. It is a clear symbol of nature’s craftsmanship. Its brackish water plays with sun light to produce different colour effects.

we are now, heading north-east towards the mysterious Changla Valley and Lake, famous for the changing colors of blue waters.The road begins to climb the Col de Changla, peaking at 5360m.It runs for a little while sacred to the summit, with its sight, taste, the glass of Tea, offered by the army, and emergency sanitation facilities, where it would suddenly pulmonary edema Because of the altitude ...

We then descended to the Changla Valley desert to pose sand dunes in places.

Despite this, some wildlife manages to survive, a few horses grazing on semi-wild few blades of grass resistant, and very bold marmots, who forget their reserves to the military always omnipresent.

Finally, we reached the lake. Indescribable.

We spent the night at the inhabitant in one of the few shacks that make up the village, the last limit before the border for foreigners.The meal was an opportunity to try a Ladakhi family contact.

Hotel

Second most beautiful toilet in the world!

Ladakh-Riding Through The land Of Mountains and Deserts

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Wed, 12 May 2010 09:31:00 +0000

Land Of Lamas

One word makes every adventurer hold his breath in anticipation...one word makes every naturalist think of the ideal place to be...one word makes every traveler think of an exotic destination...one word makes a pilgrim think of salvation...Himalayas. Yes, the Himalayas with its rugged mountain peaks, evergreen forests, bone chilling regions, ancient temples, makes it an ideal destination for everyone: traveler, pilgrim or hardcore adventurer.

This was a testing time indeed. A stretch of 96 kms to Rumtse via, Tanglang La (17,852 ft asl) with nothing in-between except the rolling mountains.

After Rumtse we moved ahead to reach Leh while visiting the Buddhist Gompas at Hemis, Thikse and Spituk. Hemis Monastery is the oldest in the Ladakh region and is a seat of Buddhist culture and religion. We wondered at the beautiful murals and the enormous statues of Buddha/ Maitreya/ Chamba and Taradevi. Thikse Gonpa is the largest in the region and is built covering a huge hillock. Spituk monastery is situated very near Leh city and dates back to 14th Century AD.

Ladakh is a unique region with diverse landscapes: brown sandy deserts and purple, rust cliffs amidst snow clad mountains, where summer is lush green and winter is snow white. And the people are always willing to help travellers, a smile seemingly permanently imprinted on their faces, despite the rigours of their lives.

Our onward journey was to the unexplored regions of Nubra Valley via Khardung La (18380 ft asl) the worlds highest motorable road. The road took us through the most exotic regions where we were beset with surprises throughout our odyssey. The first a stretch was of sand dunes in the middle of snow clad mountains. We had to rub our eyes and pinch ourselves to believe that there exists a desert amidst the snow peaks.

Ladakh....The Land Of Rocks,A Trekker's Paradise...

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Mon, 10 May 2010 09:21:00 +0000

Ladakh--Trekker's Paradise

Ladakh - the land of many passes, of freezing high barren landscapes lying across the lofty Asian tableland - is among the highest of the world's inhabited plateaus. Remote yet never isolated, this trans Himalayan land is a repository of a myriad cultural and religious influences from mainland India, Tibet and Central Asia.

The first impression of Leh was that of a desert with green patches fed by the Indus. One of the first things you notice are the prayer wheels with ringing bells. As Leh is 3,505 m above sea level, most tourists experience a degree of altitude sickness. The symptoms are persistent headaches, dizziness, drowsiness, bleeding and blocked nose, and/or shortness of breath. It is because your body has not yet acclimatized to the comparative lack of oxygen. So the tourism department suggests you take complete rest for at least 48 hours.

Amidst starkly beautiful and majestic mountains, gradually merging into an oasis of green fields, Leh is situated, on the banks of the Indus, at a height of 11,000 feet. For seven months a year, Leh airport is Ladakh's only link with the outside world. Transport, tour operators, boarding and lodging facilities are available to suit every pocket and there is sufficient novelty, antiquity, hospitality and bargains to satisfy the quest of all types of visitors. With a population of 10,000 people, mainly Buddhist, some Argoos (Muslim descendants of Yarkandi traders) and a small Christian community, Leh bears the distinct stamp of its history as the administrative, commercial and cultural capital of Ladakh. A memorable sight of the Leh bazar is the group of women, traditionally attired, selling fruits, vegetables and household articles spinning and knitting, and exchanging gentle banter between themselves and with passersby.
Leh, the Ladakhi capital, sprawls from the foot of a ruined Tibetan-style palace - a maze of mud-brick and concrete. Leh only became the regional capital in the seventeenth century, when Sengge Namgyal shifted his court here from Shey, 15 km southeast, to be closer to the head of the Khardung La-Karakoram corridor into China. (Khardung La is the world's highest pass, 39 kms from Leh).

Predominantly Buddist, Leh has 25% Muslim population.These are Ladakhi Muslims, with their own cultural heritage, quite distinct from elsewhere.

Ladakh is a trekkers' paradise. Foreigners move around with their backpacks, heading in different directions. Attractions in and around the town itself include the former palace and Namgyal Tsemo gompa. A short walk across the fields, the small monastery at Sankar harbours accomplished modern tantric murals and a thousand-headed Avalokitesvara deity.

Among the string of picturesque villages and gompas within reach by bus are Shey, site of a derelict seventeenth-century palace, the spectacular Tikse gompa and the Hemis gompa, the largest in the region. Tikse has a huge statue of the sitting Buddha.

The mosque, city palace, the bazar and the gompas are all within walking distance. Shey, Spituk and Phyang are quite close while Stok, Mashro, Thikse, Stakna, Chenlrey, Hemis, Likir, Basgo and Alchi are all a day's touring distance with regular bus and taxi services plying daily. Rumbak and Markha offer exciting treks, while Stok Kangri is the best for a climb. Boating and river running too is possible on the Indus.

Ladakh-Land Of Freezing Winds And High Passes...

noreply@blogger.com (amitap) — Fri, 07 May 2010 11:21:00 +0000

The Breath Taking Manali--Leh High Way

A land of freezing winds and burning hot sunlight, Ladakh is a cold desert lying in the rain shadow of the Great Himalayas and other smaller ranges. Little rain and snow reaches this dry area, where natural forces have created a fantastic landscape. Surrounded by rugged mountains this land is completely different from the green landscape of many parts of the Himalayas. Bounded by two of the world's mightiest mountain ranges, the Great Himalaya and the Karokaram, it is a land which has no match.Ladakh is one of the most beautiful hill stations, with those beautiful landscapes, green valleys, gorgeous lakes and those soothing snowy peaks. In here you breathe in the mild air and breathe out all your stress and tension.

The breath-taking view at every turn of the Manali-Leh highway imprints images that remain long after. In summer, a stream of buses and Enfield motorcycles set off from the Kullu Valley to travel along the second highest motorable road in the world, which reaches a dizzying altitude of 5,328m. It's surface varies wildly, from bumpy asphalt to dirt tracks sliced by glacial streams. This 485 km journey along different river valleys takes around 24 hours with an overnight camp at Sarchu at an altitude of 4,000 m. This highway is open only for 3 months (between July 15th and Sep 15th approx.) every year. During the other seasons of the year it is closed because of the snow.
One word makes every adventurer hold his breath in anticipation...one word makes every naturalist think of the ideal place to be...one word makes every traveler think of an exotic destination...one word makes a pilgrim think of salvation...Himalayas. Yes, the Himalayas with its rugged mountain peaks, evergreen forests, bone chilling regions, ancient temples, makes it an ideal destination for everyone: traveler, pilgrim or hardcore adventurer.

From Manali, the road crosses the Beas to begin its long ascent of the Rohtang Pass (3,900m). The views over the eternal snows of Solang Nala improve as you progress up, ranging from the coniferous forests to grassy mountain pastures. Just below the pass, the bus stops for a breakfast halt beside some dhabas. Nearby, a temple crowns the top of a bluff from where you get a great panoramic view of the upper Beas Valley.

Rohtang La (La means "Pass" in Tibetan) is the gateway to the rugged regions of Lahaul and Spiti. The pass between two 5,000-meter peaks, is one of the most treacherous passes in the region. People have been stranded there sometimes due to the sudden deterioration of weather. Rohtang literally means "pile of dead bodies".

The descent from Rohtang to the floor of the Chandra Valley affords tantalizing glimpses of the shining white sail massif. Koksar is where the road finally reaches the river. I can't forget the parathas we had there. They were aaloo-stuffed parathas, deep fried, yet not oozing oil, served with a Tibetan chutney. Finger-licking irresistible!

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From Darcha, the road climbs steadily along the mountain side of wine-red and pale-green scree to Zingzing Bar. As you move from this desolate land, you approach Baralacha La, which will blow your mind. The "twelve-horned" pass forms the head of three valleys, the Bhaga, the Chandra, and the Yunan. By the time you get to Sarchu Serai you'll be ready for a night's rest, which is in a tent. This is in the plains next to Bagha river at the bottom of a high, straight peak. Some makeshift dhabas serve you dal-chawal for dinner.

You head to Lachlang La (5,059m) from Sarchu, the second highest pass on the highway,

before descending to Pang at 4,500m. 3 km from Pang is the extraordinary Moray Plains (4,800m), a 45-km-long plateau encircled by rolling hills and brilliant white Himalayan peaks. The road starts its ascent from Dibring Camp to Tanglang La at a head-spinning 5,328m. This is the second highest pass in the world and by the time you reach there, your nose might well start bleeding slightly. This is a symptom of altitude-sickness. (More about this later). The Karakoram range of the Himalayas, visible from here signals that you are approaching Ladakh. This road goes along our age-old Indus (Sindhu) valley. Sindhu is the river which was the lifeline of India for thousands of years. It fed one of the oldest civilizations of the world (Indus Valley civilization). It is natural to feel overwhelmed at the sight of this great river.

The Gateway to Ladakh from Manali is Upshi. This is where the project for constructing and maintaining the highway, undertaken by the Indian army concludes. Considering the rugged terrain of the mighty Himalayas, maintaining this road itself is a Herculean task. Project Himank, as it is called, is amazing. One roadside board read, "If you want a road to the moon, please contact Himank". And we didn't find any exaggeration in it!