The Pursuit of Life

Bay Area Backyard Hikes: Hayward Shoreline Trails

2018-01-15T19:53:00.002-05:00

Easy spot for hiking and birding on the shore of Hayward.

There are several hundred parks, open spaces and protected lands in the Bay Area and nearly all of them are ripe for adventure. Though I love traveling around the country, I've found that there's enough variability in environments around the San Francisco Bay that you would never have to travel far to find something new. I've begun to chronicle my adventures across the numerous public lands of our region through this series.

Hayward Regional Shoreline and the Interpretive Center are located right at the eastern end of the San Mateo Bridge of Route 92 in Hayward, California. We've passed by the warf-looking building of the Interpretive Center dozens of times in our travels and always thought we would like to check the place out. Last weekend it was a balmy 65 degree weekend (in January!) and thought this would be a perfect time to see it.

The main draws of the park are the flat, easy trails that flow through several marshes and tidelands. Its a perfect spot for a family hike and welcoming of children. Hybrid and mountain bikers might like to take a spin on the trails as well which seam to meander along the shore for miles.

Parking can be somewhat limited at the Hayward Shoreline Interpretive Center but we did not have trouble finding a space, even on a Saturday with pleasant weather. There are several other trailheads and parking locations you can see below on my map. Public Transportation options are somewhat limited although AC Transit Bus #86 and Bus #83 place you somewhat close to the entrances also shown below (about 1/2 to 3/4ths of a mile walk to the park from the stop in both cases). Rideshares from the Hayward BART station would be another easy way to access the park if you are car-free.

At the Interpretive Center, there is a small area with exhibits of common animals of the area. I was surprised to see how much they had! Their fish tank had numerous local dwellers and a leopard shark. It was also the first time I saw a California Giant Salamander was at their exhibit (note that they are not actually residents of the East Bay). A small tower at their site would be perfect for bird watching on a blustery day in the winter.

Its a great family destination and we noticed many families with small children on walks. I suppose with a stroller prepared for dirt roads, one could even take toddlers or babies on the trail! We noticed a few families had waders and mud boots on and were finding all sorts of crustaceans in the muck of the marshes. Dogs are not allowed in the southern section of the park (South of West Winton Ave)

The biking of the park is fairly gentle although it is mostly dirt/gravel roads. Some people seemed to be getting by fine on whatever bike they had on hand though there were a few hybrid bike riders. I think I'd prefer this to road biking.

Wildlife viewing and specifically birding are fairly accessible. I regret that I did not bring a good pair of binoculars and a bird reference book as the marshes were positively teeming with life. Herons and bright white Great Egrets are a common sight but no less majestic. They sure do a good job of keeping themselves clean in spite of all the water and mud! Hayward Marsh itself had more ducks that you could ever count. Of the few species I'm familiar with, congregations of Northern Shovelers, American Wigeons and Lesser Scaups seemed to be enjoying the day as much as us. I'm fairly certain I spotted a regal Peregrine Falcon that day which can be a common sight on days of nasty weather.

From a trail runner's perspective, its probably less of a destination given that the place is mostly flat. I'm sure some would appreciate the straightforward nature of the gravel roads but I tend to prefer the hillier runs just east of here in the Hayward Hills.

So there you have it- a perfect little stretch of nature just north of the Route 92 bridge and close to pretty much all of us in the Peninsula, South Bay and East Bay. Hope you don't miss this one!

-Quincy

Kayaking Tomales Bay from Heart's Desire Beach, Point Reyes National Seashore

2018-01-08T19:10:00.003-05:00

An easy 10 mile paddle around one of the most gorgeous protected bays in California

I've long considered Point Reyes to be nothing short of sacred. It sharply cuts into the Pacific Ocean from mainland California and creates a haven of wilderness and wonder. Like Cape Cod but with mountains and redwoods. I don't know who's idea it may have been to preserve the area for generations but I've been coming here for well over a decade for respite and solitude. There was no better way for me to start 2018 than a kayak trip here!

Tomales Bay looks like a bit of an anomaly from the air, creating an almost perfect line of deep water in a northwesterly direction. The further you zoom out on a topographic map, you realize that it is an extension of the infamous San Andreas Fault. Although the forces which created the bay are quite tremendous, today it is a remarkably protected waterway with just a few small fishing and oyster hamlets. The western side of the bay is almost entirely preserved by the national and state parks.

I began my day at Tomales Bay State Park which has a wonderful sandy beach that people tend to enjoy a lot in the summer. On the day I was there, I only saw a handful of other people. Its very easy to put in a kayak or other small, non-motorized boat at this beach and within 20 minutes of arriving, I was on the water.

The coastline of the bay is marked by mostly cliffs although several inviting beaches that are mostly public (I noted in the map above the ones that are wildlife preserves where landing is not permitted). The beaches are boat-in only for the most part which creates an exceptional wilderness setting. I spent hours of my day landing at random beaches and taking in the serenity!

Two of the beaches have pit toilets and more established campsites although with a permit you can camp on the more remote beaches.

As I worked my way to the outlet of the bay, I decided to make a line for Hog and Duck Islands. Although closer to the center of the Bay, I didn't feel like the currents or wind were terribly cumbersome. The seabirds were in full force today! Hundreds of very noisy Pacific Loons announced their presence. I kept my distance as to not perturb them but watching them dive, swim and socialize was quite the sight. Harbor seals were also my near constant companions. There's almost always kayakers out on the Bay but they seemed as curious as ever to inspect this oddly shaped yellow thing in the water! They were just as noisy as the loons too, especially as I got closer to one of the pupping areas on Hog Island. Again, landing or getting too close to them is NOT permitted but even from several hundred yards away, you could hear and see their rambunctious haven. It was like watching a bunch of school children in a cafeteria. Some were relaxing, others were fighting and many seemed to be having pleasant seal-conversations. What a remarkable life they must lead!

The last noteworthy wildlife I encountered was veritable swarm of Moon Jellies! There not an uncommon sight to see in this part of the Pacific but nevertheless they are an interesting animal to watch. Extremes in tides had lead to several of them washing up on the shore but they were still plentiful in the bay. I'm glad I didn't go swimming!

All in all, it was a very pleasant trip. The currents and tides tended to be light, even with the so called "supermoon". Wind was generally calm and it was easy to remain in protected bays. Really I just scratched the surface of all the Bay has to offer; I'll likely return in the future for more boat-in camping and hiking.

Eight Takeaways We Learned from Wine Tours in Sonoma Valley

2018-01-02T19:17:00.000-05:00

Beautiful view at Benziger Winery

Being Californians, we always felt like our appreciation and understanding of wine was grossly limited. Sure, we know the general differences between varietals and a little bit about wine growing regions. However, when it comes to the finer art of wine tasting and appreciation, we felt like it was quite nebulous. For one, I've always wondered how you could get a non-fruit flavor from grapes. Things like "toffee, oaky and tobacco" just didn't make sense to me. Also, while we're aware that Northern California is a world-class wine region, I really wanted to know why. Or, to put it differently, why aren't other parts of the country that grow grapes as famous as California for their wines? (There are literally wineries in every state but none has over 4,000 like our state!)

To put it simply, we live only an hour an a half from the continent's greatest wine growing region and we felt like we knew nothing about wine! And that's how our trip was born.

1. You DON'T need to be a Sommelier to appreciate good wine

This was perhaps the most salient lesson we learned in our trip. I think a lot of people are intimidated by the idea of wine tours because they feel like they're going to be in a group with a bunch of people who know everything there is to know about wine. We saw all types on our trip, from the most casual to the most experienced. We encountered girlfriends groups, other couples our age, families and several international travelers. Everyone seemed to be there to learn more about wine and winemaking and we all left each winery feeling like our abilities had increased. Sonoma Valley in particular has cultivated a very down-to-earth approach to visitors which makes the really incredible wines quite accessible to folks like us!

2. Opinions are helpful, but not the end-all of wine.

This is another good takeaway I learned from nearly every winery we went to. Like most anything in this world, wine is dominated by opinions and there's plenty of personal preferences and disagreements to go around. Sonoma Valley tends to embrace that! You are totally allowed to not like a pour that has been offered and the wine bartender will be more than happy to try something else to suit your pallet. I loved that everyone gave you permission to be real about what you like and don't like and nobody seemed to get offended at anything.

A sampling of our purchases from the weekend

3. Price Points Matter but More Expensive Doesn't Mean Higher Quality

Bob, our guide at Zinfandel Winery really helped us understand this point. He compared price points of wine to price points in cars. Less expensive cars can still have a lot of reliability, safety and be very drivable. Sure, you're not going to find them in a museum or find an old-timer working 10 years to restore your compact car but that doesn't mean its a bad car! In the same way, there are very expensive, luxury cars that impress the heck out of people when you drive them but the maintenance is expensive, the drivability might be atrocious and you're probably not going to want to take it on normal errands.

Think the same way with wine price points. There are several wines that I know I can find at just about any supermarket for 10-12 dollars and I'm going to love them. I pour them on a Tuesday evening with leftovers and I love that reliable taste. I'm not going to take that same wine and try and bottle age it for 21 years for a child's birthday though!

By the same token, if I spend a good 50-60 dollars on a bottle of estate-grown and bottled wine, I better put in my research to make sure that its something I would like and if I'm going to age it, I better make sure I'm doing it well! I'm also not going to be pouring it on a Tuesday evening after work, I'm going to make sure I match it with a good meal and try and serve it in one sitting.

Here's a good comparison on Price Points: Both are from Ravenswood, same vintage (2015), same varietal (Zinfandel). The bottle on the right is roughly 7-10 dollars at our local supermarket while the one on the left runs at 39 dollars. I love them both for different reasons. The 10 dollar bottle is reliable. I bought them when I was in grad school in Maine and had no money. I still buy them here now that I live in the Bay area. I would describe the taste as robust while my wife might say its harsh. On the other hand, the bottle on the left was a glorious pour for both of us (my wife typically avoids Zinfandels). The taste is far more complex though smooth, probably due to a number of factors- it comes from a single AVA in Sonoma County, a single vineyard and was probably aged in a far finer fashion than the one on the right. You CAN taste the difference! (For those who like whiskey, imagine the difference between Wild Turkey 101 and 15 year old scotch).

This is not the best picture but it's my favorite label. Its NOT meant to catch your eye in a supermarket but it will certainly catch the eye of somebody who knows how to read a wine label.

4. How to Read a Wine Bottle

This is fantastic as I previously knew that some parts of wine labeling were important but never knew how to properly interpret them. The label is like the wine's introduction and just like with humans, a fancy introduction can often hide a lackluster personality. Several industry standards and labeling laws play a role into what can actually be written.

First of all, if the wine has California on the label, 100% of the grapes must come from the state.
If the varietal is on the label such as the above listed "Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel", 75% of the grapes used must be of that variety. Why not use 100% ? Good question as nearly all wines are blended with other varietals. We actually had the opportunity to taste unblended varietals and they taste nothing like the finished product! Adding additional varietals helps round out the taste. Some labels may actually have the percentages of each varietal, especially with blends.
If the label has a year, 95% of the grapes must come from that year
If the label has "Produced and Bottled" on it, 75% or more must come from that vineyard.
If the label has a specific AVA (American Viticultural Area), then 85% or more of the grapes must have been grown in that area. This is important as some very specific AVAs contain climates and soils that are especially well know for a particular varietal
Sometimes even an individual vineyard will be listed on the label meaning that 95% or more of the grapes were grown in that particular vineyard.

What I can say is that supermarket wines might come from the same company or vineyard that you could see in Northern California but the marketing is entirely different. In general, we saw much simpler labels that were geared towards those purchasing fine wine as opposed to eye-catching labels focused on capturing your gaze in gigantic rows of wine at the market.

5. Microclimates

Microclimates are in most places around the world but in Sonoma Valley, the difference in just 50 acres can be the difference between a crummy and world-class Chardonnay. Microclimates are the subtle differences in sun, shade, temperature, clouds and seasons that can be seen in a small area.

Sonoma Valley is separated from the ocean by at least two fairly substantial mountain ridges and also separated from the central valley by another two. The climate is exceptionally moderate for that reason. San Pablo Bay also moderates temperatures within the region. Whereas the Southern Reaches of the Valley are going to be more associated with varietals that need the cooler, oceanic climate, the Northerly and higher regions tend to produce varietals closer to the Rhone Valley and Spanish wines. Once you start factoring in the way that otherwise insignificant hills and trees can create temperature differences and shade, you could have a small plot of land matched with a dozen grape varietals. And don't get me started on soil composition and drainage!

I suppose the takeaway is that the microclimates of Sonoma Valley mean that every single varietal in the world can be grown here! The only kind of wine you couldn't get from the Valley is, of course, ice wine.

Wine cave at Benziger

6. Coopers, The Unsung Heroes

This is something that a lot of people even vaguely familiar with wine would probably already understand but I certainly did not. Wine, of course, needs to be aged and the vast majority are aged in oak barrels. There are really only three different types of barrels that are used to age wine- French Oak (the most pricy), American Oak and Hungarian Oak. American Oak barrels are almost exclusively from the Southeastern United States.

Barrel making is as refined of an art as winemaking. The tour at Madrone estate told us that roughly 20-30% of the flavor of wine comes from the barrel itself. Barrels are often described as rounding out the flavors of wine and most would probably not enjoy non-aged wine any more than they would having lemon juice over lemonade. Barrels "take out flavor as much as they add to flavor" was a major takeaway. The way the inside of the barrel is toasted by the Cooper also has a major impact on flavor. Matching the right wood, the right toast and the right varietal of each vintage is part of what makes winemaking so intricate.

Valley of the Moon at Madrone Estate

7. Screwcaps vs Corks

This is another subject that carries a ton of opinions but winetouring really simplified the debate for us. Screwcaps are great for wine that you tend to want to drink within a year. The wine is going to hold the flavor that the winemaker intended. Corks, for better or worse, are going to allow for more variety from bottle to bottle. When it comes to aging, you probably want to stick with cork over screwcaps. However, its a very small risk but might be worth considering that, regardless of price points or vineyard, you can end up with corked wine. Corked wine happens to ten dollar bottles and 100 dollar bottles and although technology has improved over the years, the risk of it cannot ever be fully eradicated. I've never tasted corked wine myself but I've heard it variously described as having the smell of wet cardboard or newspapers.

8. Bottle Aging

Again, heard a lot of opinions here but had some great takeaways. First, most would agree that only some bottles should be bottle aged and that most wine should be drank within 1 year of purchase. Many things go into which bottles you should age and not age but I did like what I heard on the tour at Madrone Estate and Buena Vista. One opinion which made sense to me was generally not aging wine past 5 years: "risk outweight benefit after 5 years!" was what one of our guides postulated. He followed that up by saying that if you are going to attempt to age a bottle for a decade or longer, it makes far more sense to buy a much larger bottle- magnum or double magnum.

For the 99% of us who like wine, want to try aging but don't have a wine cellar, the recommendation for aging was to keep the bottles in a box in a closet. Now, living in the bay area means that the temperatures of the home are generally fairly consistent and we don't have to often use AC or heating to keep the temps in the 60s. Box in the closet means that it wouldn't be exposed to sunlight and it was recommended we turn it every New Years. We received the same recommendation at Buena Vista; our bartender had over 100 bottles and no wine cellar!

Are we on our way to becoming Master Sommeliers? Probably not but we sure feel a lot more confident in our ability to purchase and appreciate all the subtleties of wine flavor!

Home-county Day Tripping: Wineries, Open Spaces and the Pacific Coast Highway

2017-12-12T15:46:00.000-05:00

Although I tend to write about places that are several hundred miles away from where I reside, I've actually always been a fan of the “staycation”. Now that we live in a place like the Bay Area, staycations can be quite adventurous, rivaling that of more intrepid trips far from home.

The three counties (San Mateo, Santa Cruz and Santa Clara) that make up the southern reaches of the Bay Area are quite extreme in their variations of topography and climate. They can also be quite rural, especially as you get into the mountains and coastal areas. We never seem to be far from a new-to-us state park or open space that we can explore. My far more refined wife is also happy that we never seem to be far from a local winery. Lately, we’ve been taking trips that encompass both of our passions.

Picchetti Winery, Cupertino, California:

This place is a perfect marriage between our otherwise divergent recreational interests and tastes in wine. By that I mean that there’s an abundant selection in fairly unusual varieties of reds and whites in addition to the property having access to public open space for hiking. We took the better part of a day to tour and taste this winery for that reason!

If you’re not from the Bay Area, you might correctly tag Cupertino with everything Apple. But far before computers were invented, Cupertino was considered somewhat of a rural place outside of San Jose. The soils and temperate climate of the region were far more associated with viticulture rather than what would become the epicenter of Silicon Valley. Given that Picchetti Winery started at the end of the 19th century, it has quite a storied history of surviving the tumultuous years of the American Prohibition in the early part of the 20th century to becoming a wine-tasting fixture in an area that is otherwise exclusively tech-oriented.

The tasting room has a vibrant, social atmosphere and may be a bit difficult to find a piece of real-estate at the bar if you’re there on a Saturday! We’ve been to several tasting rooms in the past which can feel a bit lonely- that was certainly not the case here.

Memorable Pours:

Super Tuscan, 2015: It’s only natural that we settled on this blend to take home: Dee is far more of a fan of the fruitier and tea-like Sangiovese and I’ve always been partial to the robust, high tannin though also fruity flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon. We learned that “Super Tuscan” blend variety that essentially was a “yeah, well we’re not following your stupid rules” to the Denominazione di origine controllata of Italy (how Californian!). I’ve never been to Italy but the impression I get is that Tuscany is a lot like California in climate and geography and, to a certain extent, culture. So, this is a wine best enjoyed paired with simpler, hearty fare with plenty of local herbs.

Picchitti Port, 2013: Neither of us are typically in to Port-style wines. I typically like my wine experiences to be either before or during a meal and the thought of having a desert-wine seems bloating to me. Nevertheless, we decided to try both a white port and a desert port at the urging of the staff and had a great experience! He paired our pour with some decadent dark fudge which really brought out the fantastic sweetness of the Port. I’ve never been the best at describing Ports other than an over-simplified “sweet” but we look forward to pouring this wine after a meal with family or friends. We’ll just pretend that we thought of the fudge idea all by ourselves!

Sauvignon Blanc, 2016: Dee picked this one out; she’s a great admirer of Sauvignon Blanc which grows extremely well in California. Sipping this on a hot summer’s day is as Nor-Cal as it gets (it was in the 90s when we visited!). While Chardonnay is thought of as the best white wine made in California but the quality difference between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc is very slight to me; probably something that a true connoisseur could decipher but for those of us on the casual side, imperceptible. This is not to say they taste the same, only that it is easy to get a very high quality Sauvignon Blanc for a much lower price than Chardonnay. The tropical fruit flavors that the staff gushed about were easily detected by us novices. We’ll soon be pouring this alongside an herbal or citrus chicken dish. (As much as Dee likes dry white wines, she can’t stand it’s best counterpart- seafood!)

Piccetti Winery, Freemont and Stevens Creek: As mentioned earlier, the winery is interlaced with open spaces and public hiking trails. I love that the place is literally surrounded by parks! Although the appropriately named Zinfandel trail is a great two hour walk that can be accessed from the Piccetti parking lot, I actually liked Rancho San Antonio Open Space the best. This is a state-park sized open space with extensive hikes, most of which would take all day to complete. A loop hike/run of the PG&E trail with the High Meadow Trail was 10 miles and I didn’t run into very many people past the first mile.

Bonny Doon Vineyards: Bonny Doon Vineyards outside of Davenport, California is basically Santa Cruz, bottled and poured. They radiate with quirkiness, self-aware gusto that is well-deserved given their prominence in the region for excellent wine. Don't expect to leave with less than four to six bottles if you go to their eccentric tasting room right off of Highway 1. The owners seem to bask in their self-described prismatic radiance and I had to look up several words in a dictionary from their newsletter (D.E.W.N. : Distinctive Esoteric Wine Network).

Memorable Pours:

Le Cigare Volant, 2011: This is their flagship red blend that Bonny Doon is so well known for. Its a similar to red blends from the Rhône wines of France which makes sense when you compare the climates of Bonny Doon to that of Southwestern France. The varieties used in the blend are mostly Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah polished with Cinsault; all which seem to grow extremely well in the Bay Area regions. What this means to more casual wine drinkers like us is it is an extremely well balanced red that is neither too fruity nor earthy. I suppose that's why Dee and I gravitated towards this one. We were delighted to also find out that it qualities make it easy to pair with all sorts of robust California dishes.
Picpoul, 2016: This was a bit more experimental for us as we have never encountered this variety in the past. Picpoul, like Mourvèdre and Grenache, comes predominantly from the sunny and Mediterranean climates of Southern France. It seems to have taken well here in the Central Coasts of California as we loved this unique white wine. I'm not sure if this is a Bonny Doon specific term but we certainly realized why it’s called the "lip-stinger". We both found its somewhat strong acidity to be playful but finishes with a summery taste of peaches and lemons. We took home a bottle to preserve for a warmer day in the fall.

Davenport Beach and Route 1: The drive to or from Davenport is bound to be full of adventures. I'm always surprised how rural the coast is between San Francisco and Santa Cruz. Once you get south of Pacifica, there's essentially just Half Moon Bay and a lot of open road. Farms dot the coast along with the sharp ridges of the Santa Cruz Mountains. There are around two dozen open spaces and parks in the area as well which we've begun exploring. Of course, you don't have to go far from the Bonny Doon Tasting Room to get on a secluded beach! Davenport Beach is an easy but steep walk to the shore. Bounded by cliffs and very exposed, the waves and currents probably don't permit much swimming but there are abundant opportunities for beach-combing! In the fall, the waves are currents create an artistic scene. Año Nuevo State Park and Pigeon Point are other picturesque places that are worth a stop on the way North.

Hiking Long Ridge at Purisima Creek Redwoods Park

2017-12-11T15:48:00.002-05:00

Adventures close to home

I think one of the greatest blessings about living in the Bay Area is the proximity to numerous open spaces and wilderness areas. Its almost jarring how densely populated the Peninsula and Silicon Valley give way to vast stretches of rural, undeveloped land the closer you get to the shore. In most parts of the country, the beach cities are overcrowded and bursting with people- for some reason that's not the case in Northern California. Maybe its the fog, or the cooler summers but I'm not complaining!

Purisima Creek Open Space is one of finer local open spaces in the area, just off of Skyline Drive. There are two parking areas, North and South- this hike is accessible from the North Lot. Its actually quite sizable although I've never been there on a weekend day.

Here's a map of this 5 mile hike-

I would like to point out that although I consider the hike quite easy, it is almost completely downhill for the first half. Its kind of like hiking the Grand Canyon in that matter- make sure you don't tire yourself out on the beautiful hike down!

As hinted by the name itself, the hike is lush and predominantly forested. Had you hiked this place 200 years ago, you might find yourself totally immersed in an old-growth forest but this is considered "second-growth". The drawback is that the trees are generally younger than the ones in Big Basin State Park. The silver lining is that the views tend to abound. On this clear day, I could easily see all the way out to the Farallon Islands, nearly 40 miles away.

Not terribly visible from a photo but from the ridgeline, I could see the peak of the Farallon Islands 40 miles away

The trail can have quite a steep descent which you must consider on your way back up. Along the way, younger groves of redwoods also provide ample amounts of shade with a backdrop of the Pacific Ocean. Its really a pleasant hike!

The hike has plenty of signage so although there are several forks along the way, I had no trouble finding my way. Towards the final overlook, the trail does steeply climb the North ridge but on the other side is a fantastic final view-

It was late afternoon by the time I made it there so although the pictures didn't turn out well, the sight was no less sublime. I actually ended up taking a nap in the warm December sun (only in California).

This is an out and back hike although several other loops exist which I intend to explore as well. All in all, the hike took me about 2.5 hours of moving time which accounted for all the pictures and admiration that often slow me down.

Hiking Black Hole of Calcutta Falls, Auburn State Recreation Area

2017-12-03T10:58:00.002-05:00

Well with a name like "Black Hole of Calcutta Falls", you would think we were headed somewhere in a J.R. Tolkien novel! Judging by the scenery, I wouldn't be surprised if such a magnificent place hadn't inspired other adventures in literature.

This is a classic example of a "I lived here for 10 years and never went" kind of a place. Auburn State Recreation Area almost seems like a National Park in its character. Preserving a sizable portion of the North and Middle Forks of the American River, it is the closest thing to the Grand Canyon we have in this part of California. Shame on me for never coming here earlier!

With it being a few days after Thanksgiving, I think we were all up for something to get our legs moving. I was traveling with family and we wanted a "joint-friendly" hike and we sure hit the spot! This is a 2 mile round trip hike with minimal elevation gain and a great bang for your buck. Here's the map-

This is a fairly popular place to hike and several regionally loved trails leave from the fork area of the park. I'd recommend getting there pretty early if you can. Otherwise, if you don't mind driving around for a parking space and adding another 1/4 to 1/2 a mile to your hike, you'll probably eventually find a parking space.

I'd recommend at least wandering up to the Lake Clementine Trailhead which is just about a quarter of a mile (by road) away for a fantastic view of the Auburn-Foresthill Bridge which has one of the tallest spans in the country.

Back to the trailhead, I should note that there actually aren't any signs for distance or markers for the Falls. I thought this was interesting given the fall's notoriety but just be aware that you won't know you're getting close to the falls until you stumble right upon them.

The trail starts off near the confluence of the North and Middle Forks of the American River. From here, it crosses No-Hands Bridge which offers panoramic views of the deep canyon carved by the river. This is a popular spot for photography and not without reason!

A few easily traversed up-and-downs are encountered on the way to the falls. Again, there is no shortage of views throughout the length of the 1 mile to the falls. It actually took me over an hour to make it to the falls as I was appreciating the magnificent views the entire time!

As we were there after a fairly wet November, the falls did have some force to them when we arrived. Water cascaded down the near vertical cliff into a shallow pool creating a magical sight. Had we been there during a hot summer day, I'm sure I would have taken a dip in the small pool! It looked inviting but too cold to swim this time of year.

Talk about a short hike with a lot to see! Although the total distance is barely over 2 miles, there's the canyon, the confluence, the falls and two bridges that all would be worth hiking to in their own right.

I'm sure during Spring runoff, the power increases dramatically. We will certainly have to return then to see the place in a different light!

California Winter Destinations I'm Looking Forward to Travel to this Year

2017-11-27T11:12:00.001-05:00

I suppose it only makes sense that everyone associates winter in California as time for skiing and snowboarding. I won't deny how that was essentially the way I was raised. But after a decade of adventures (and a few sufferfests) I've been every bit as active in the winter months as the rest of the year. Now that California is home for me, I'm looking forward to getting back to all the places that I remember fondly during this time of year.

Snowy High Desert Glory

Oh I know that everyone likes to go to Joshua Tree in the winter but its such a massive park that its easy to get solitude, especially when you get off trail. An added benefit of being in the park during the winter is the off-chance of seeing snow on the Joshua Trees. The northern end of the park tends to be at a higher elevation and therefore have more of a chance of this ethereal sight. Some memorable hikes I've done in the winter include the 3 mile, strenuous hike up Ryan Mountain (pictured above), a cross country trip across the Pinto Basin and hiking Quail Mountain, the park's high point.

Over last summer I did get a good anchor-building class in Devil's Lake, Wisconsin so this winter I hope to get more rock climbing in the park. I'd love to also love to check out the Coxcomb Mountains which is the most remote section of Joshua Tree. That trip might take more time and planning than I have currently!

The Colorado Desert of California

Further South and at a far lower elevation, Anza Borrego State Park is almost always temperate in the winter. People wait in eager anticipation for the spring wildflower blooms but why not just go in both seasons? Anza Borrego is the largest state park in California and the country (other than Adirondack Park) and we've never been bored here! A trip to the park would be incomplete without seeing the Slot Canyon (pictured above) which is a very easy hike. I actually can't believe I've never been to Fonts Point which frequently shows up in photographer's galleries. The Pictograph Trail is another favorite of myself and many other travelers to the area.

New destinations I'd like to see? Well now that I have an actual 4x4 high clearance vehicle, I'd love to finally see the Wind Caves. This would take a great deal of luck and good timing but I'd also love to finally see Desert Bighorn Sheep in the wild. After all the hiking I've done, I've never seen Bighorn Sheep in the wild!

California's Forgotten National Preserve

Everyone's aware of Joshua Tree and Death Valley and most are familiar with Anza Borrego. What always surprises me is how obscure Mojave National Preserve has remained in spite of having many features that would otherwise draw travelers far and wide. I've spent a lot of time at the Hole-in-the-Wall area which has one of my favorite short hiking loops through it's namesake. Kelso Dunes (pictured above) are some of the tallest dunes in the country and you can see for miles atop their 600 foot "summit". A terrific excitement to me and I'm sure several other desert travelers is the re-opening of Mitchell Caverns and Providence Mountains State Recreation Area. The Mitchell Caverns are a fantastic cave destination with easy guided tours. Formations throughout the caves certainly play to the imagination.

Mojave National Preserve is actually far larger than Joshua Tree National Park with over 1 million acres under their jurisdiction. I've never been to Clark Mountain which is the tallest point in the park. Other than that factoid, it is a "sky island" meaning its tremendous relief above the surrounding desert creates a rare biome this far from any major source of water. Cima Dome and the surrounding lava beds add some geologic masterpieces to the stark desert surroundings.

The Colorado River though California

One of my most iconic trips in a kayak has been kayaking the Topoc Gorge along the Colorado River. Its almost an unreal feeling to be kayaking down such a vast river in an otherwise hyperarid environment. Between Lake Havasu and Needles, California is a fairly rugged gorge that stretches for about 20 miles. There are no rapids although the water can be somewhat swift at times. But if you put in at the small marina at Topoc, you can have have a fantastic paddle with minimal effort. I really hope I can make it back here sometime this winter!

The North and Lost Coasts

Point Reyes is the glorious gateway to California's rugged North Coast. Its funny to think how sparsely populated such a scenic place is. Once you cross the Golden Gate Bridge, there is not a single town of greater than 10,000 residents until you get to Eureka which is 300 miles North on PCH. I've always referred to Point Reyes as the "Cape Cod of California". Places I've never been include the equally exposed Cape Arena as well as the famous "Lost Coast". Located in King Range National Conservation area, the Lost Coast is famous for the attempted but ultimately unsuccessful construction of PCH through a profoundly remote section of the coast. What was left is a backpacking trail that stays so close to the shoreline that it is mostly dependent upon favorable tides for passage. There are few places on either coast that hold so much opportunity for wilderness solitude.

The Channel Islands

Though my most beloved island is Catalina, there are five other Channel Islands that can be visited. Of those considered to be part of Channel Islands National Park, I've only been to Santa Barbara Island, where I was able to go kayaking and hiking. The opportunities on Annacapa, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and San Miguel Island are boundless as well. Part of me would like to travel way out to San Miguel Island which is the furthest exposed and quite remote. However, Santa Rosa Island has the most number of hiking trails and is as expansive as Catalina with respect to outdoor adventures as a whole.

Winter Mountaineering in the High Sierra

Finally back in a place where I have easy access to high alpine adventures, I just can't wait to break out my winter gear for some Sierra Nevada trips. I remember when I was younger I took some fairly foolish trips deep into the Sierras and came up empty handed for summits. There's a lot that can be learned from such trips and 8 years later I'm hoping I've picked up a thing or two by being a bit more prepared. Mt Williamson, or the second highest peak in California, is a destination I'd love to get to in the winter. I'd also love to return to the Palisades a bit more prepared than the last time I was out there in 2009 and ended up post-holing in waist deep powder. I might try an attempt at Mt Dana this year although even a simple trip to Yosemite Valley in the winter would be worth it. Come late February or March, it will be hard for me to avoid being in the Sierras every weekend.

Will I make it to all these destinations? I sure hope so!

New England Fall Foliage Tips that Aren't in the Guidebooks

2017-10-09T09:56:00.000-04:00

All time favorite- Long Trail Hiking in the fall

Boy, do I ever miss living in Maine when the Fall Foliage report start coming in! I spent my grad school years living in Northern New England and I don't think I studied a single minute between late September and late October. Without any sort of direction or guidebook, I was usually found driving my car down unmaintained logging roads and bushwhacking random summits in search of the perfect Fall Foliage experience. I might not remember everything I learned in class, but the view of a fall forest in full “bloom” is something you never forget.

Doing online research about how to see the best fall colors is like the proverbial experience of “trying to drink water from a fire hose”. Most of us seasoned leaf peepers have our own tricks and tips that we typically keep close to the LL Bean vest. But now that I live far away, I feel like I should share at least some of my knowledge! So, here's a few of my thoughts on the subject that I didn't typically see online or in a guidebook:

Get far from a paved road: Nearly every guide about leaf-peeping that I have viewed is mostly based on what you could see from the window of a car. Most leaf peeping reports are based on observations from highways and popular drives. However, I've always found the best foliage viewing comes from the further you can get from a (paved) road. So even if you are not to keen on hiking 10 miles into the wilderness, if you have a four-wheel drive and/or some comfort with traversing partially-maintained logging roads, you're going to have a better experience.

Elevation makes a huge difference

Elevation: A less-experienced leaf peeper will probably point their car in the direction of any mountain range New England expecting that the colors are just going to be fantastic no matter what. Certainly the mountains can be gorgeous, but you're going to find more evergreen Spruce-Pine forests at higher elevations. Don't get me wrong, pines add the right amount of variability to the brilliant oranges, reds and yellows of oaks and hardwoods. But a mostly boreal forest in the fall looks just about the same as in winter, spring and summer! This is a broad stroke, but my favorite fall colors in New England tend to range between 1,500 and 3,000 feet where just a few of those evergreens can create a magnificent sight alongside the real stars of the Fall show.

Use the State and Local Tourism Guides: This might be a bit of a self-defeating point given that I'm writing this from California, but the most reliable source of accurate and up to date leaf peeping reports comes from the most ultra-local of sources. Most of the more big-name websites often have broad, same-every-year reports on fall foliage. You want to know what's really going on up in New England? Start with the state tourism websites which keep a constantly updating report from people with their boots and tires on the ground. They are going to be much more sensitive to the micro-climates and subtle fluctuations in weather that lead to the best days to go out. If you know exactly where you’re going to go, try and narrow your search to regional, county and city tourism websites that typically also produce highly accurate reports on foliage.

Luck: If there's one thing that plays the largest role and leaf peeping in New England, it is sheer luck. Fall color is a combination of plant biology, meteorology, regional variations of climate and elevation. Sometimes all these things come together and you happen to be in the right spot for the most fantastic foliage. In spite of all the planning and knowledge one can acquire about the subject, there are other times when the trip is a washout. You can use luck to your favor by broadening the area that you cover on a trip and trying to take multiple trips throughout a season.

My favorite areas?: Ah, I knew I would have to divulge them someday!

Vermont: I can't say I was ever disappointed by a well-timed trip to the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont. Specifically, Newport, Vermont is where my fondest memories of Fall Foliage come from. Lake Willoughby and Willoughby State Forest off so come to mind as fantastic places to be. I have also considered the Route 100 drive through Central Vermont to be the automobile-equivalent of the Long Trail. One would not be disappointed driving this road any time of year. There's enough variability in elevation that it is hard to imagine not having a good fall color experience. Emerald Lake State Park, Mount Dorsett and Mount Equinox are all so dear to me from my many adventures through the state.

Maine: Sebago Lake and Long Lake near Naples Maine are close enough to Portland to draw some substantial crowds on the weekends. Nevertheless, there are some back roads and and short hikes that retain their rural character. State Route 113 from Standish to Freyburg is almost constantly rural but stays at low elevations along the Saco River allowing for effortless for viewing. The hike up Cutler Peak near Hiram is easy enough to be done in an hour yet I've never encountered many other hikers on the trail. Caribou-Speckled Mountain Wilderness Is typically passed over by the hoards of hikers seeking the higher summits of the Whites but serenity and solitude are in abundance near Shell Pond and the Royce Summits. The towns of Rangely and Eustis, Maine are also destinations that I would go to any time of year. What draws me in the fall is the alpine lakes and chance to hike through some very remote wildernesses abounding in autumn hues. Lastly, Moosehead Lake can be a bit difficult to time as far as the season goes, but it remains far enough away from any major center of civilization that fall color drives here are rarely crowded.

New Hampshire: Again, most hikers and casual drivers are going to be centered around the White Mountains and Mount Monadnock for their fall experiences. I never really encountered too many Leaf peepers hiking through Mount Kearsarge State Forest, spending time around Newfoundland Lake and hiking Mount Cardigan. Driving what I call the “Connecticut River Corridor” from Bethlehem to Pittsburg is considered far off the Beaten Track for most casual explorers but there are plenty of Bed-and-Breakfasts and small hotels that bring you close to creature comforts.

Dayhike of Emigrant Wilderness from Kennedy Meadows

2017-10-02T11:49:00.000-04:00

Looking like something out of the Sound of Music

After spending a day wading through heavy snow up near Sonora Pass to bag what would have otherwise been an easily hiked summit, I turned my sights to a the lower elevations. The area bounded by Stanislaus National forest is one of extreme changes in altitudes. This time of year (Fall), it is basically "drive or hike to your preferred season". So simply by driving back down 4,000 ft I went from frigid temperatures and deep snow to comfortable late summer weather.

Kennedy Meadows is a backcountry resort which draws everyone from casual weekenders to hardcore wilderness backpackers. Its the kind of welcoming atmosphere that must push PCT-thru-hikers to want to take a few zero days enjoying the good company and mild weather. I almost stayed there the whole day instead of hiking! But I did manage to get on the trail; won't be too much longer before all this becomes inaccessible in about a month.

Here's a map of my impromptu 6 mile hike into the wilderness:

The Emigrant Wilderness area of Stanislaus National Forest is one of the more famous federally designated wildernesses of California but don't expect to encounter many people past the first few miles. Commercially lead horse and pack trips will make their way a little past the entrance but mostly its just backpackers and solitude seekers deep in the heart of it. My trip was very tame compared to what most seek in this part of the Sierras but a fantastic "sampler" of what the area has to offer.

Since I was just out for the day, it was permitted to park in the Kennedy Meadows resort. Note that if you're going for an overnight trip, you absolutely need to park in the lot closer to the highway (designated on the map) which adds about a 0.5 mile to your hike.

What I really loved about my little hike was that it required minimal effort to get to stunning views. Really, one could just go for a mile walk south of the resort area and be engulfed in the natural beauty of the Sierras. The meadows themselves are bounded by the Middle Fork of the Stanislaus River which serves as a destination for fly fishers. To the South and East, the summits of Leavitt Peak, Relief Peak and Granite Dome loom like gatekeepers to this land lost in time. The area has never really been developed or, for that matter, civilized.

The first half mile to one mile of the trail is relatively flat and serene. Once it does encounter some terrain, the trail mostly parallels the river before arriving at the junction of the two creeks which create the Stanislaus River. It is almost like a little Grand Canyon!

So, any sort of effort that is put in hiking up the trail is exponentially rewarded.

After a few bridge crossings of the creeks, the trail comes to a fork. If you head due East (hikers left), the trail continues a fairly steady ascent before leveling out in a narrow canyon carved by Kennedy Creek. A much longer day hike (14-16 miles) would lead to Kennedy Lake which I can imagine is marvelous. The tallest peak in the area, Leavitt Peak and Relief Peak are only three miles apart on a map but a 3,000ft deep canyon separates the two summits. Had I the determination, I probably would have hiked further into this section but I was contented with my nameless overlook-

Leavitt Peak, one of the primary summits of the Sierras

From here, I doubled back to the trail junction and headed South (hikers Left) towards Relief Reservoir. Normally I'm not too keen on seeing reservoirs but this one did offer a fantastic panorama of the Granite Dome-Black Hawk Mountain Massif. I was thankful I got over my snobbery towards man-made lakes and hiked to this destination. The lake itself was a crystalline in nature and had an almost emerald hue. As long as I kept my gaze away from the small dam, it was a pretty sight.

Unfortunately this was the furthest I could venture today. My body was aching from the trudging of Mt Sonora in deep, wet snow and I had already enjoyed two placid overlooks today; why not be content with that! I went down the way I came up and enjoyed the views in the afternoon light.

What a fantastic place and not too far from the bay area! Again, this was just a "sampler" of what the Emigrant Wilderness has to offer. I'm sure I'll be back next season for a backpacking trip!

Hiking/Mountaineering Sonora Peak, Alpine County High Point

2017-09-25T17:48:00.001-04:00

This is an easily climbed mountain close to the PCT and the highest mountain of the Sierra Nevada North of the Sonora Pass.

Looking at Sonora Mountain from near the Pass. This was taken on the second day of Fall!

Man does it ever feel good to have the Sierras so close to me again! Not since I was in high school have I had these beautiful mountains right in my backyard. I have wasted no time in venturing out from the Bay Area to be in this special place.

Though the Sierras are comparatively narrower range to say, the Rockies or the Cascades, they remain quite remote by 21st century standards. Between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite, only four highways actually cross the range and they are only open for about 4-5 months a year. South of Yosemite, no paved roads cross the mountain range for 140 miles. As a wonderful consequence, they remain in pristine condition for exploration.

I've needed to reorient myself to the region. I've decided to focus my recent expeditions to the area around Sonora Pass, crossed by Highway 108 and the second highest pass in California. The PCT crosses at the pass, not to mention probably a hundred other trail-heads and tall summits that can be easily hiked within a day or weekend. My first destination was Sonora Peak.

Sonora Peak is normally quite easy to bag. Its not more than a few miles from the highway and the parking area is easily accessed. The Pacific Crest Trail comes within a mile of the summit and the scrambling route may trigger the nerves of a less experienced hiker but is not too hairy.

Of course, hiking/climbing it in September is a different matter! About 8-12 inches of snow fell on the higher elevations on the first day of fall creating a much more wintry scene-

Looking towards slopes of Leavitt Peak (not visible)

Looking south towards the many high summits of Yosemite National Park

I've forgotten the unpredictability of the Sierras in the fall. Some days its hotter than July, others its about as cold as December. I can't say I was the best prepared for what I encountered but thankfully I had brought at least a partial armory of winter gear. Forgot the snowshoes and spikes though!

Though the snow was fairly deep in some sections, the Pacific Crest Trail was stomped fairly well. I encountered numerous hunters during my trek- should have brought blaze orange! Fortunately there were no bad encounters. No wildlife either!

The PCT has a comparatively gentle ascent for about 1.6 miles until the "turn-off" for the scrambling route. Essentially it makes a very recognizable hairpin turn just under a prominent arête. The standard ascent of the summit starts here.

Nicely packed trail, probably mostly hunters this time of year

After the first scrambling section, the summit becomes (mostly) visible)

Atop the Arete

The route I took generally hugged the western edge of the arete and there were only a few tricky sections. Most of the trickiness was simply vegetation and deep, wet snow. I didn't slip much in spite of this but I would recommend bringing snowshoes and microspikes or crampons this time of year. In short time I had circled the arete and most of the summit was in view.

Its simple class II scrambling from here. Its a bit exposed in some sections but I really couldn't imagine slipping too far unless it was a profoundly icy day. The going got a little slower as I crossed the 10,000 foot mark and felt the effects of the thin air. There just wasn't enough time for this sea-level bay area guy to acclimate. I slogged on.

Just bellow the true summit, the terrain flattens out to a small snowfield that is probably permanent except in very dry years. The views get exceptionally clear once here and on top of the summit block!

Looking North by Northwest towards Stanislaus Peak

Looking south towards Mt Leavitt, one of the more prominent summits of the area and just a hundred feet higher that the summit I was standing on

Western view towards the Little Walker Caldera and the Sweetwater Range; two geologically unique places in California. The Little Walker Caldera probably doesn't look like much from here but its explosive history is evident throughout this part of the state

Sonora Peak summit, showings its obvious volcanic origins

East fork of the Carson River valley and White Mountain

Sonora Pass

Though I got pretty soaked with wet snow and eventually mud, the effort was well worth the payoff. I'm not really sure what I was originally expecting but I was able to summit in spite of my less-than-stellar preparation. All in all, the hike was roughly 6 miles and I was back at the trailhead before 3 (started at 9). So, even in winter conditions its still a bit of a gentle giant. Can't wait to return to hike the other side, Mt Leavitt, next season!

Hiking the Remote Sweetwater Range and Mt Patterson

2017-08-27T13:38:00.000-04:00

The Sweetwater Range, on the very eastern border of California, is a solitude seeker's dream.

The Sweetwaters, viewed from the Sierras

There was something powerfully nostalgic about traveling to the Sierras for the first time in nearly 7 years. Coming up over Sonora Pass was like seeing an old friend. I guess it was a bit odd that I just kept going past and landed in the Sweetwater Range. I thought I was a bit crazy to pass up such a familiar place but for some reason I was feeling like being in the desert that weekend.

The eastern Sierras and the various mountain ranges on the California-Nevada border go largely underappreciated for residents and travelers of California. I find this a bit odd as the attractions of the area are phenomenal- Mono Lake, the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest and the White Mountains are stand alone destinations. However, it is a little counter-intuitive to be passing up the likes of Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks to get there. However, if solitude, sweeping views and uninterrupted wilderness are things you appreciate, you will have no trouble leaving those familiar places for something new.

Here's a map of the area I explored;

I was feeling a little daring now that I have a true 4 wheel drive vehicle with comparatively high clearance to my old sedan. There are parts of the Sweetwater Range that are strictly accessible to serious 4-wheel drive vehicles but you can get to most trailheads by good 2-wheel drive vehicles. Having said that, I don't think I would have driven up this way in my old sedan!

As you can see from the map above, there isn't a shortage of free drive-in campsites with fantastic views of the Sierras. I ran into a few 4x4 folks who were very courteous and willing to share their more extensive knowledge to help orient me to the area.

The trailhead I used was right on the shore of Lobdell lake (which is a reservoir). There's some fishing and campsites at the lake. Although its not natural, it is a fairly peaceful place to camp or begin hiking!

Things can be a bit confusing here. The 4x4 road circles around the west shore of the small lake and it is possible to shave off about a mile of walking to drive to the second trailhead (which actually has a sign). I was told this would be a bit dicey in my car, so I parked near the southern shore.

Note, there is no formal trailhead here and I essentially followed closely along the eastern shore of the lake, crossed the small creek feeding into it and walked up the 4x4 trail to the first major fork in the road. From here, there is a sign letting you know you're about to travel into an alpine wilderness and to leave no trace. This is the only sign with a map and directions I spotted on the trip. Directions are fairly straightforward but just be aware of this.

From a hiker's perspective, the road/trail is in excellent shape. I ran into a crew of 4-wheel drivers doing some train maintenance to keep it that way; God bless them! I ran into about a dozen folks that day in various 4-wheel drive vehicles and all of them were very pleasant to me. I found them to be some of the kindest people I've ever met on a wilderness hike!

The road steadily ascends the mountain with very little elevation loss or flat sections. Water sources are fairly numerous and dependable up until about 10,000 ft. I didn't have any problems crossing the East Fork of Desert Creek although earlier in the summer this could be a bit rough.

As the trail rises above treeline, the brilliant volcanic colors of the mountains become more evident. This part of Eastern California has no shortage of volcanic features which are most obvious near Mammoth Lake and in the Devils Postpile National Monument. The Sweetwater Mountains themselves are the obvious remnant of the explosive Little Walker Caldera. It's ancient rim is not as obvious as that of more southerly calderas in Mono County but the view from the Sweetwater Range is illuminating.

Thankfully the area is long extinct from its more violent geological past leaving behind mountains of orange, violet and red ribbons. Surely these are some of the most colorful mountains in the state!

At about 11,100 ft, the trail comes crests on a fairly level plateau that looks like Mars. Devoid of the lush vegetation below, only scrubby, flowering plants seem to flourish this desolate environment. They are easily mistaken for rocks but the environment is sensitive to trampling and off-road driving. Hikers and drivers should not veer off trail.

At the summit, I was greeted with fantastic views of Nevada and California. Snow lingered even into August after a very snowy winter. I was told that the road did not clear of snow until late July this year! I lucked out.

Its the same way down but the late afternoon light continued to create an ethereal sight that made if feel like I was on a different route.

Mt Patterson is the highest mountain of the range but hardly the only place to see. Wheeler Peak looks like it is worth the trek as well. The sisters- South, Middle and Eastern are an off-trail trek that is rarely done but I'm sure it is quite the adventure as well. Even though I was a bit sad to not have spent more time in the Sierras, I was so happy to have stumbled upon this gem!

Hiking Boundary Peak, Highpoint of Nevada

2017-08-23T13:50:00.000-04:00

If there's one thing that could be said about Nevada, it is a mountainous state! Even a visit to Las Vegas can't shroud the looming desert peaks that surround the fabulous city. I love Las Vegas as much as anyone but what has always drawn me to the Silver State are is many mountains.

I've been traveling up and down Nevada since essentially I became an adult. I celebrated my 22nd birthday in Great Basin National Park and returned the next winter to summit Wheeler Peak- Nevada's tallest summit wholly within the state. Boundary Peak is technically Nevada's highest point although it should be said that this "peak" is more of an arm of a higher summit in California. Of course, the summit itself is glorious in its own right.

(The absurd pasttime of peak-bagging and highpointing requires one to accept that state boundaries were often drawn without respect to topography. This means that many states have a high point that is not a true summit- Connecticut and Maryland are both mountainous states without a high point that is a true summit)

At the Nevada Highpoint with Mt Montgomery and the White Mountains just over the California border

For me, this was high point #38 and a fantastic adventure.

Part of the difficulty of ascending Boundary Peak is that it is quite isolated from nearly any major center of population. Reno and Las Vegas are almost exactly equidistant by driving. Cities in Calfiornia are more like 8 hours away. The road to the parking area can be passable by a skilled w-wheel driver but I was happy to have my all-wheel drive. The road is not rough by Nevada standards but might be a bit intimidating if you're not used to it. Here are excellent directions to the trailhead.
The parking area is well marked and has a map. As most of the trail is in wilderness, there are no other signs to mark the way for the entire trip. Having a topographic map and compass is essential.

As you can see from the map, there are two fairly established routes. Both could be best described as herd paths- easy to find in the daylight but ambiguous in some sections. I preferred the more straightforward ascent of the obvious Northeast-facing bowl.

The first few miles parallel trail creek. It was a wet year so there was no shortage of water sources but I would be hesitant to bank on this after a dry winter in the late summer. A few sections were difficult to navigate but generally speaking you stay to the south of the creek. Just before the fork between the two cols, there is a fantastic forest of ancient bristlecone pines and limber pines that is worth a brief detour-

I never actually found the turn off herd path for the route up to Trail Creek Saddle. Instead I charged up the bowl to the Arête of the summit. As it turns out, it wasn't too bad of a trail. In the way of scree-scrambles, it was neither too miserable nor hard to follow. If you're not used to scree, be prepared for slow going.

At the col, there were stunning views. Sure I had at least an hour before I would be on the summit but I was already getting the views I was hoping for. The summit is tantalizingly close but be mindful that it is about another 45-minutes to 1 hour of fairly exposed Class II and III scrambling-

Eventually I made it to the summit and wow, was it ever worth the struggle! I could see for perhaps 50-75 miles. The Eastern Sierras were still glistening with snow, even in August. Miles below was the vast Owens Valley as well as the nameless valleys of the Great Basin and Range. It had been at least 4 years since I last breathed air this thin but I was so thankful to be back.

I ran into a botanist at the summit who was the only person I saw the entire day. He was also a peakbagger and he illuminated the already fascinating science behind high alpine desert forests. I was thankful.

What a great summit- fine in its own right, even if I was there because of it's highpoint status. I would have liked to have bagged Montgomery Peak while I was there but that would have been another 2-3 hour scramble even though it is less than a half a mile from Boundary Peak. Of course, the summits of Mt Dubious and White Mountain Peak are others I intend to visit in the future as I further explore the area.

Hiking Gossip Rock, Garin Regional Park, East Bay, CA

2017-07-31T11:57:00.000-04:00

Garin Regional Park and it's neighbor Dry Creek Pioneer Regional Park are two beloved parks of the East Bay and well worth the trip from anywhere in the region.

Towering high above the East Bay are the ridgelines of the Diablo Range. For me, they are tantalizingly close to where I work and live and I take every opportunity I get to explore them. Garin Regional Park along with the Dry Creek Pioneer Regional Park has plenty of draws for both the causal explorer and serious hiker.

The six mile hike I did was a perfect sampler of everything that makes this place regionally loved. There were open vistas, narrow canyons, historical sites and plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing.

I decided to get all the elevation gain out of the way earlier in the hike and took the high ridge loop trail looming above the picnic area. It was instantly steep! Thankfully the trail rose well above the opposing ridgeline allowing for outstanding views of the bay. After the first 0.5 miles, the trail goes from strenuously steep to modestly steep. Most of your elevation gain save for various ups and downs is done within the first 1.25 miles.

I think most are intimidated by the steep trail above the parking area so I didn’t run into any other hikers on the magnificent ridgeline! It’s a great spot t take it a little slower and appreciate the scenery

Steep at first, becoming more pleasant

Pioneer Park is an appropriate name for this area. Even though Silicon Valley, San Francisco and most of the East Bay can be seen from the ridgeline trail, there’s plenty of evidence that this area is an active ranchland. I believe the cattle of the park are not exactly a commercial venture but you’ll certainly feel like you’ve stepped back in time on these trails.

The High Ridge Trail intersects with the brief loop around Gossip Rock. I discovered that Gossip Rock is not a peak or highpoint but it is a curiosity in an otherwise open savannah. The rocks create an oasis of trees overlooking the bay which is a pretty sight. The trail loops around the edge of the park boundary and has views of the more prominent summits of Mount Allison and Mission Peak.

Back on the main trail after the loop, the trail takes a steep descent before arriving at the intersection with the Pioneer Trail. I wasn't expecting much from this trail but was pleasantly surprised at how narrow and lus its canyon was. Like the previous Trails, I encountered no other hikers and had excellent solitude. Two steep ridgelines sheltered the bottom of the canyon from any outside noise other than that of the wildlife!

The trail does rise up over a saddle, adding to the total altitude of the hike, although this elevation gain is comparatively gentle. On the other side it runs through another Canyon before intersecting with a spiderweb of trails which eventually lead back to the parking area. If you follow the map, it is easy to find your way back.

Gossip Rock

In the end, the distance was 6 miles exactly with roughly 1,000 ft of elevation gain. Although very steep at the beginning, the effort is rewarded greatly. I'm sure I'll come out here again, soon!

Hiking Mt St Helena, Napa Valley, California

2017-07-28T21:30:00.002-04:00

Mt St Helena is the tallest mountain in the San Francisco Bay Area. At 4,342' it is one of the rare coastal summits that receives measurable snow in the winter. A true classic for any hiker in the region

The summit views of Mt St Helena

Boy is it ever refreshing to be surrounded by mountains again! The summits of the coastal ranges of California are not very tall compared to the sierras and transverse ranges of the state. However they are far more lush and the views are no less phenomenal. I decided to kick off my peakbagging of the state by hiking Mt St Helena

This is a very popular summit to hike, especially in the summer months. In addition to it's lofty summit, Bubble Rock is accessed by the trail and is a classic rock climbing destination. Solitude is not always abundant here but the trail does offer almost continuous panoramas of the Napa Valley.

Here's a trail map-

Robert Louis Stevenson State Park is where the parking area is. I came at about 8:30 on a Saturday and the parking lot was practically overflowing. Thankfully I was able to get a spot but I would caution anyone with arriving too late in the morning. People tend to start clearing out again around 12-1 so an afternoon may be more fortunate for parking.

The trail itself is actually not very obvious from the parking area. An unmarked double-wide dirt track leads away from the highway to a picnic area and clearing. From here, there is an actual sign that says "Mt St Helena, 5 miles". That's really one of the only directions provided by signage.

Enjoy the shaded forest in the first mile of the trail- you won't encounter it again in the 4 miles afterwards that lead to the summit. The trail switches back and fro before coming to a monument to Robert Louis Stevenson. Shortly thereafter the trail comes to it's first major overlook. This may suffice for some hikers looking for a brief out-and-back.

After the overlook, the trail comes up to the access road which will serve as the route to the top. The road is fairly straightforward from here. While the openness of the access road gives way to some fantastic vantage points, there is very little shade. Note also that there are no services or water sources from trailhead to summit.

With just a mile to go to the summit, the trail seems to arrive on the massif of the summit. Five peaks make up the mountain although only two are regularly climbed; the main summit and the east subpeak which happens to be the highpoint of Napa Valley. Thick chaparral seems to deter climbing the additional summits.

At the very top there are some radio towers but that doesn't obscure the fantastic view into the northern wilderness of the mountains. With only a few small towns visible, you would never guess such a summit is with the range of the 7.6 million people of the Bay Area.

I must have snapped several dosen photos at the top- it was wonderful

The taller, Cobb Mountain, off in the distance

The high-point of Napa County is very easily bagged on the same hike although it is an otherwise insignificant shoulder peak of the true summit. Naturally, I couldn't resist the 10 minute detour.

Total distance was roughly 12 miles round trip. I did it easily in about 3/4 of a day and saw hikers of all experiences on the mountain. Certainly I would like to return in the winter!

Hiking Canyon Falls, Upper Peninsula, Michigan

2017-07-18T09:49:00.000-04:00

Continuing with the wonderful theme of amazing waterfalls after thunderstorms, I visited Canyon Falls. While the name itself is not very imaginable, the sights to behold are glorious.

Canyon Falls is right off of Route 41 South of L'Anse Michigan. The hike to the falls is a relatively flat half a mile. Along the way the Bocco Creek was nearly jumping its banks given the recent storms. It was a preview of what was to come.

I could hear the falls from the parking lot, adding to the anticipation. There were several smaller and larger falls interconnected by rapids. The largest of the falls was an intense torrent. Getting up and close felt precipitous. The roar of the falls was vibrating the very rocks I was standing on. From here the river cascades through a very narrow gorge and runs down a second set of smaller falls.

A number of the rivers in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan are black water Rivers. I believe this is what gives the waterfalls such a distinct copper tone- almost the same color as iced tea. Tannins are responsible for the unique color. Tahquamenon Falls is the famous waterfall of the UP that is on a blackwater river but several others exist.

Tannin-stained blackwater

I find the colors to be exquisite and a natural part of the wilderness of Northern Michigan. Canyon Falls is one of the easier Falls to see of the Upper Peninsula and I would highly recommend it.

First Visit to Copper Harbor Mountain Biking Trails of the Upper Peninsula

2017-07-17T10:19:00.000-04:00

At the northern Terminus of my journey through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, arrived at to Copper Harbor. I've known about this place for many years as a mountain biking destination, once I finally arrived I was filled with anticipation. By the end of my weekend, it was clear why this place has become an international destination for mountain bikers.

The Keweenaw Peninsula could be accurately described as a peninsula within a peninsula. Located at the northernmost part of Mainland Michigan, it creates a jack-knife like landform on Lake Superior. Sawtooth-like mountains sharply rise above the glistening blue lake with tiny harbors along the shoreline. The geology of the mountains strongly favors the development of copper, and the first mining boom was in 3,000 B.C. Prior to European contact, Native Americans mined and traded copper that made its way across the continent. Subsequent copper booms have long exhausted the resource but a new one bloomed with the advent of outdoor travel. I've dreamed of coming here since I first visited the upper peninsula nearly six years ago.

I could have spent weeks exploring the peninsula but what drew me to visit this time where the Copper Harbor trails. The IMBA “Epic Ride” status is a rarely given award to a system of mountain biking trails that has an outstanding variety of novice to expert trails and is worth a visit from anywhere. To me an “epic ride” is like a magnet. I’ve ridden close to 20 trail systems in the country that, at one point or another, have achieved this designation.

Copper Harbor seems to live and breathe mountain biking in the summer. Most of the hotels will be filled with the mountain biking crowd. Keweenaw Adventure Company Is the premier Outfitter and information center for all things biking in the upper peninsula and they were enormously helpful in acquainting me to the area. Additionally they run a mountain biker shuttle during the summer months which makes the area essentially like a ski resort. You can spend a whole day doing downhill biking!

My first uphill ride was “The Flow” which is a classic. Even in the early summer, most of the foliage had not come in yet and there were views in every direction. The trail was not a terribly difficult uphill or downhill ride though it helps to have a full-suspension bike. I caught a few glimpses of “Overflow” which is a far more difficult ride that I’ll have to try in the future.

Trails on the west side converge at the “summit” of Brockway Mountain Drive, itself a panoramic viewpoint. It’s easy to forget you’re still in the midwest with a view like that!

From here, I cruised down “On the Edge” which was my favorite trail in every respect. The scenery is unparalleled- I almost went off the edge myself admiring the views! Further down, it has a network of corkscrews which challenged my abilities. I’m sure better bikers have a field day on that section of the trail.

Whoopity Woo and Garden Brook Trails are fairly standard “blue squares” which are less challenging but flow-y and relaxing. All of the blue square trails on the south-eastern side of the park were pleasantly challenging.

It’s a really neat scene this far up North. I met a mix of locals from around the peninsula and folks like me who had traveled great distances to be here. Overall, people are courteous and friendly. I do not ride with nearly the tenacity that people who mountain bike all the time do but nobody was rude or impatient with me on the trails.

After a half or full day of riding, one can’t miss Brickside Brewery at the edge of town for local brews. Pines Resort also had a public tavern with plenty of Michigan spirits. Although I was only able to spend two days here, I could have easily spent a month.

Hiking and Waterfalls of the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness, Upper Peninsula, Michigan

2017-07-11T09:44:00.000-04:00

The Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness exemplifies everything that I love about the Northwoods. Secluded, rugged and photogenic!

Like standing next to a tsunami

This is a classic example of a magnificent place that I would not have known about had I not been in the area. Often when I travel, I have a faint scaffolding of where I want to go and make sure that I allow plenty of time for stumbling upon new places. In this case, I must thank the kind folks at Baraga County Tourism who illuminated this vast wilderness to me.

The interior of the Upper Peninsula is as unspoiled and untraveled as it gets. If you understand how difficult it is for an area to attain "Wilderness" status in the US, you would know that this is no exaggeration. The exact wording of the law states that it is "an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain" (Wilderness Act of 1964). I had a keen sense of this while wandering through these wilds.

View from the top of the gorge

Getting to this are requires comfort in navigating unmarked logging roads although I had no trouble with clearance in a two wheel drive sedan (even following a rainstorm). The roads are fairly well graded and though I wouldn't go careening 40 miles an hour down them, I didn't feel too slow either.

The entrance to the wilderness area is deliberately vague. There's a parking area that is marked and then the trail leaves right across the street. Directions and maps can be found here and several other websites though I would strongly suggest that the traveler visit the Baraga CVB for a free, very detailed map of the area and any updates on road closures. With those directions, I had absolutely no trouble with navigation

Fairly typical roads of the area- not too shabby for a two wheel drive vehicle

The classic pentagonal sign marking a wilderness area in the US

The hike that nearly ever visitor to the area completes is the hike to the Sturgeon River Falls. There's so much to enjoy about this hike. First, it immediately dips well below the rim of the canyon and into the wild. The waterfall is visible within the first mile and the trail skits the side of the lower gorge all the way along the river's edge. It is not unusual to see bald eagles and bears and this would be one of the better opportunities to see a moose in Michigan. Even if no large wildlife is seen, birding opportunities are abundant. For a complete list of wildlife that can be spotted in the gorge, visit here.

I have been ever so lucky to visit this place after a thunderstorm. Sure the trail was a bit muddy but were the falls ever thunderous!

Here's another one of the lower falls-

The trail essentially fades into the woods along the river though there appear to be many informal herd paths that lead up the ledges. Towards the top of the ledges, I caught a great view of the river as it makes a large U - shaped bend. Nice spot for lunch!

The whole hike took less than two hours. It could be considered a bit strenuous coming back up the to the canyon rim but overall I think it's fairly do-able even for a less experienced hiker.

Just south of the trailhead for the falls is a pullout for one of the overlooks above the rim and it's a fine place to get some perspective on how deep it is. Bet you weren't expecting such a sight in the midwest!

Mountain Biking Mt Arvon, Michigan State Highpoint

2017-07-10T10:14:00.000-04:00

Mt Arvon, at 1,979ft is not a very tall point when compared to other state high points. However, it is set in an extremely vast wilderness of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and is a fine destination for peakbaggers and casual travelers alike

Looking towards the Keweenah Peninsula

In the past Mt Arvon has garnered fame in the climbing world not for it's technical difficulty but for its route finding. A veritable maze of backroads and logging roads traverse its summit. People would have to track down the obscure USGS maps of the area and rely heavily on their car's odometers to make it successfully to the top. These days the L'Anse-Baraga Area has embraced the significance of Mt Arvon and placed numerous signs on those logging roads to make the trip more obvious.

I should give particular thanks to the kind folks at the Baraga County CVB who provided me with maps, directions and a completion sticker for my trek to the top. They were so welcoming to this Illinois flatlander! After I did summit, I spent a lot of time checking out the area and camped out on the shore of Lake Superior.

I should note that I was driving a normal clearance sedan up these roads and felt fairly comfortable up until the last mile. Directions were very clear,thankfully. Generally speaking the roads are in fair condition and there's enough traffic on them that they don't get terrible ruddy. However I was thankful I had the mountain bike as the road gets very steep for a 2 wheel drive vehicle in the last mile.

Whether you decide to drive it or hike the last mile, the scenery starts to open up at the saddle. There's a pleasant wilderness lake near the summit which I presume to be the highest lake in Michigan. Finally there's a small parking area and a 200 yard trail to the summit registrar.

Summer, I discovered, is a very narrow season this far North. Even in the early summer, the temperature at the top was 31 degrees in the evening and there was ice on the trees. The upside of this was that the foliage had not come in yet and I had completely unobstructed views of Lake Superior and the saw-toothed mountains of the Keweenaw Peninsula. That's almost 50 miles away! In spite of the chilly temperatures, I was in awe!

In the foreground of the photos above, the tip of the Abbaye Peninsula is visible. The horizon has the sawtooth profile of the Keweenaw Peninsula's volcanic mountain range. Lake Superiors incredible vastness can be appreciated at this high point as well.

I was nervous at first at attempting to navigate all those roads to get to the summit but the effort was finely rewarded. The next day I returned to the L'Anse Visitor's Center and they gave me a sticker and competition certificate, not to mention the copious amounts of suggestions for other places to visit. Although it was not originally on my travel list, they convinced me to see the Sturgeon River Gorge Wilderness as well as Canyon Falls and I'm so glad they did!

My campsite that night in L'Anse was ever so special-

Hike of Agate Falls, Upper Peninsula, Michigan

2017-07-07T10:05:00.000-04:00

My adventure up north ended up being a great tour of all the waterfalls in the Upper Peninsula Michigan. While I knew that there were many waterfalls that ran in the Pictured rocks National Lakeshore, I suppose I was somewhat oblivious to the myriad of other waterfalls in this part of the country. Agatr Falls is a thunderous cataract beneath an old rail bridge creating the frontieresque visage.

Hiking Agate Falls is hiking in the loosest sense of the term. It is neither a steep nor a far hike and certainly has a good bang for your buck. A number of signs from Highway 28 alert the traveler that the Falls are near. The parking area is on the eastbound side of the highway. It is about a quarter to a half a mile hike to the waterfalls. At the end there is a wooden viewing platform that looks right down on the falls. However I felt the best view was the one from the rail Bridge which has been turned into a snowmobiling trail. There are no signs of trails to get to the rail bridge but several herd paths exist which are easily traversed as well. I'm uncertain of the acceptance of the numerous additional herd paths that also go down to the river itself, but most of the great pictures of the Falls come from folks standing on the river bank.

As I happened to be there on the same day I saw Bond Falls (which most people end up doing), Agate Falls was running with as much ferocity. I lucked out coming there after a large thunderstorm but I'd recommend planning for it if you can.

There must be a grand Circle of waterfalls tour of the Upper Peninsula as I felt like I was never more than twenty or thirty miles from the next falls. In this case my next destination was Canyon Falls.

Magnificent Hike of Bond Falls after a Severe Thunderstorm

2017-06-28T18:24:00.002-04:00

It had been almost 6 years to the date since I had last visited the Upper Peninsula. A torrent of memories rushed in the moment I crossed the state line. My last visit was during a very iconic time of my life when I was making a great trek from California to Maine to start grad school. Camping out on the shores of Lake Superior and hiking to the waterfalls of Pictured Rocks are scenes forever etched in my mind. Last time I had entered by way of Ironwood, this time I came up from the south.

Back in paradise!

At the end of the summer or after a dry spell, Bond Falls is one of those pristine waterfalls that will certainly end up being a photographer's favorite. Cascading 50 ft down a fairly diagonal slope, the pictures I had seen prior to visiting made it look serene. However I visited the area after an extreme period of thunderstorms and it was far more turbulent! I could hear the roaring sound of the waterfall from the parking lot. Today I would not be getting a wispy, horsetail-like picture. In fact, it felt more like Niagara Falls in the Upper Peninsula.

The trail to the waterfall is neither steep nor difficult. The scenic area has numerous boardwalk trails to help with exploration. Bond Falls is encircled by these boardwalk trails below. A small, partially paved trail ascends the right flank of the falls giving the viewer a chance to see the cascades above. For a wilderness waterfall, it is remarkably accessible.

I have to admit, I was cautious and a little bit scared ascending the trail to the top of the falls. Normally I don't think that the waterfall runs down the trail itself but today it had covered one of the view points. The sound was deafening and the force was palpable. It almost felt like I was in an earthquake. What power!

Although Bond Falls is the centerpiece of the park, I did enjoy skirting around the smaller canyons and eddies above the falls. The river above ran with a terrific temper as well. It's amazing how much can change with a night of severe thunderstorms. If you visit, plan for at least two hours of wandering and pondering.

Close to Bond falls is Agate Falls which I visited later in the same day.

Mountain Biking the Raven Trail, Minocqua, Wisconsin

2017-06-26T22:28:00.000-04:00

The Raven Trail is one of the finest mountain biking trail systems in the Northwoods. Flowing and sheltered, it’s a grand ride through the woods.

Mountain biking "up nort" in Wisconsin is serious business. Before visiting, I thought that there would be some quaint trail systems that were fun to poke around but I was not ready for what I encountered

Normally I'm a meticulous researcher when it comes to mountain biking. In this case the discovery of the Raven Trail was serendipitous. I was on my way to the famous Copper Harbor Trails of the Upper Peninsula but had forgotten my helmet! Fortunately, there was a great bike shop in Eagle River that illuminated the mountain biking opportunities of the area. After talking with a few of the shop people and some folks that happened to be there, it was clear that the Raven Trail could not be missed by anyone claiming to be a serious mountain biker. I took the detour and was glad I did!

The Raven Trail is just outside of Minocqua-Woodruff. This area is a hotspot for Wisconsinites and Midwesterners for essentially everything outdoors. Minocqua, Rhinelander, Eagle River and Three Lakes are etched into the memories of many a family, especially those who’ve grown up in the state. I regretted that I couldn’t spend more time up here.

The trailhead for the Raven Trail is well marked and not far off Highway 47. In the summer, the parking lot is likely full of bikers and in the winter I’m sure it’s all snowmobilers and cross country skiers. The trails are laid out like a typical mountain biking system; there are numerous loops of varying difficulties and it is easy to combine them all into a day’s trip. I biked the red loop which is considered difficult but the blue (intermediate) and green (easy) trails were just as fun.

I would describe the red trail as rolling and steep at times but not too technical. It ends up being a lovely ride through the woods for that reason. There are also fantastic views of Clear Lake and a seemingly uninterrupted wilderness. Riding in the morning of a weekday, I encountered no other riders.

The blue and green loops had a mix of wide dirt sections and paved roads. Nevertheless, the tenor of both trails was serene and relaxing. I found the blue trail was about the same level of difficulty as the green trail.

It’s a fine trail system that shouldn’t be missed by somebody looking for a relaxing ride that will get your pulse up from time to time. Hardcore riding devotees may find the trail lacking in features but I appreciated the views and quietude. Thankfully, it’s not the only trail system in the area and I’m sure I’ll be returning!

Hiking Timms Hill, Wisconsin State Highpoint

2017-05-26T15:39:00.001-04:00

Wisconsin is a more mountainous State than you would expect in the Midwest. Sure the mountains are not high nor steep, but there are mountains nonetheless. I've greatly enjoyed touring through the “ Driftless area” which are not in mountains in the traditional sense of the word but have a very similar terrain. Timms Hill of North Central Wisconsin rises to an altitude of 1,951ft though it does not have as much relief as Rib Mountain which I recently wrote about. Fortunately for Peak Baggers and Wisconsinites alike, this is a very easy Mountain to hike.

Timms Hill is located almost exactly 25 miles due west of the town of Tomahawk, Wisconsin. It is one hour from the town of Rheinlander or about an hour north of Wausau, Wisconsin. getting there involves driving on some isolated highways but no unpaved roads. Just below the Hi-Point is a charming little stop called High Point Village and you can get a great cup of coffee there if passing through in the morning. The lake below Timms Hill is picturesque as well.

Ownership of State high points is an interesting topic in itself. Several of the country's high points are in National Parks, a few are in state parks and many are surprisingly privately owned (all are legally accessible if following proper directions). The highpoint of Wisconsin is the only one that is in a County Park. As a side note I would say that the county parks of Wisconsin match the grandiosity of state and national parks.

The signs for the drive to Timms Hill are very well marked. It is a one way Road. the parking lot is roughly 400 yards from The Summit. There is no cost to hiking the mountain. The trail itself is nondescript but well-designed. Trees have been cleared from the summit to offer a bit of a view, but no trip would be complete without a hike to the summit fire tower.

I was thinking that this would be a brief stop for me on a great road trip North. I wasn't expecting to have the 360 degree panoramic view that I had on the top. I could see the serenity of Northern Wisconsin for miles and miles. Small dairy farms dispersed amongst Pine and hardwood forests created somewhat of an Irish feeling. I probably stayed up there for an hour.

Around the summit area are many other trails. In the winter they can be cross country ski tour snowshoed. In the summer they are nothing more than pleasant walks in the woods. I saw several fishermen on Bass and Timms Lake, the highest in the state. I preferred relaxing by the lake shore listening to the ever so unique sound of loons.

Timms Lake

Well that is my 37th State High Point. Each one has its own unique draw. I stayed the night in Rhinelander and couldn't wait to get some mountain biking in.

Hiking Rib Mountain, Wausau, Wisconsin

2017-05-26T11:06:00.001-04:00

After spending a relaxing 4 days in the famous Door County, I turned my sights North. The great Northern Highland of Wisconsin keenly remind me of the wilds of Maine. Though not high in altitude, it is quite rugged. The sentinel of the Northern Highlands is Rib Mountain near Wausau.

Rib Mountain is perhaps one of the true mountains of the Midwest. It rises 700 ft above the surrounding terrain to a height of 1,942ft- Just 9 ft shorter than the highest point in Wisconsin, Timms Hill. Unlike Timms Hill, Rib Mountain’s jagged summit has substantial prominence. It would be a great place for a hike!

There are several ways to get to the summit. It is a state park so it is possible to drive to the summit and walk the five minutes to the fire tower. In the winter, the largest ski area in Wisconsin runs list to the summit. None of these would satisfy me period I would have to climb from the bottom!

The “Summit Trail” begins just outside of town at the end of Grouse Lane. there is not a formal sign or a parking area. Most people prefer to just park at the end of the dirt road. There are signs for the turkey vulture trail which is a loop that includes a vista above the Quarry. I would say that it is important to have a map of the area because there are several heard paths, hunting paths and other trails that are not well marked and don't lead to the summit. About two hundred yards after the trail leaves the end of the dirt road, there is a turn off to the left that brings you further up the mountain by the Homestead Loop Trail. From here, the trail steadily climbs up Rib Mountain, passing by several Pleasant streams. After 4 tenths of a mile, the trail Forks again and both directions are part of the homestead Loop. Making a left turn (or heading south to be more precise) Is the way to the summit. The trail continues for a quarter of a mile before intersecting the Quarry Trail. Here, you want to head Southeast or left. In another hundred yards, the trail again intersects and you want to continue left or East.

At this point, you start encountering some fantastic views. Unfortunately the trail becomes even more confusing. You are no more than a quarter of a mile from the summit itself though be prepared for several side trails and unmarked paths. I believe these are hunting Trails. I generally skirted around the talus slopes close to the summit which brought me some what North and then East. Eventually I intersected a paved trail and was on The Summit in no more than 5 minutes.

The summit itself has a public fire tower which should absolutely be climbed. At the top is one of the greatest views in all of the Midwest. The city of Wausau can be plainly viewed- considered the regional hub of Northern Wisconsin. The famous waters of the Wisconsin River can be seen to the north and east. The southern view includes a view of the three other Monadnocks in the area. Then there is the Southwest view which has miles and miles of Wisconsin farmland and forests. It is a special treat.

The fire tower is not the only point of interest on the summit. The two massive outcroppings are fun to scramble upon. It should be noted that these are some of the oldest exposed rocks in the United States. The true natural Summit is at the top of the larger rock outcropping. Interpretive signs and nature trails are also abundant.

In true upper Midwestern fashion, there is Paul Bunyan lore in every single parcel of land. Some would say that Rib Mountain is the burial place of our famous face of Americana. It is a fantastic hike and much different than what you would expect in the Midwest. If you're on your way “up North” or “up Nort”, it can’t be missed!

Four Days Hiking, Eating and Drinking Through Door County, Wisconsin

2017-05-25T12:18:00.000-04:00

Within minutes of arriving, we understood why this was such a destination for all of us Midwesterners. We were entirely immersed in natural beauty as we drove up the peninsula. This was broken up by charming small towns on the lakeshore. Surely I am one of millions to wax poetic about Door County, but in spite of its notoriety we were surprised by it's timelessness charm in unassuming character.

Egg Harbor sunsets...

Admittedly I had some trepidation about spending 4 days at such a well-known location. We typically prefer unknown and out-of-the-way locations. Our wariness was quickly replaced with awe as we drifted further and further away from our Midwestern metropolis.

There's a lot that could be said about Door County that is already quite obvious. What was not evident to us prior to our visit was the sheer vastness of it all. With 5 state parks and 14 county parks, I don't think that I've been a place that has such a high concentration of natural areas. In fact it reminded me a lot of Sedona, Arizona; It was effortless to get onto a rugged wilderness trail or sit quietly by the lake side without the obtrusiveness of civilization. Nevertheless, each town has its own unique character and draw. There are those that seem to be suspended in a time when Wisconsin was almost entirely agricultural. Others were reminiscent of lobster towns that I used to frequent in Maine; posh though still quite accessible to the casual wanderer.

It is hard to say whether we would have had a better experience in a different town, but we felt that Egg Harbor was the best choice for us. It has a secluded public beach where we elected to park our chairs and idle our time though we could have rented kayaks. Downtown had plenty of restaurants and a fully stocked grocery store. It was also central to all the places that we wanted to go on both the Green Bay side as well as the Lake Michigan side. Last year, my in-laws stayed in Sister Harbor and had an equally great experience. Fish Creek would have been a close second for us. We found Fish Creek to be surrounded by the cliffy wonders that are so frequently photographed in Door County. The downtown area was also very chic and we spent plenty of time poking around the shops and bistros. My impression was that Jacksonport, Baileys Harbor and the northern Peninsula would have been perfect for a cozy long weekend in a cabin in the woods. I don't think you could go wrong spending time at any of those little towns though each would be an entirely different experience.

In true Wisconsin fashion, every local we met was friendly and unpretentious. Door County has been a travel destination for over 50 years and it remains steadfast in it’s warm and welcoming personality. I've traveled to many places in the country that I would describe as glorious, though fraught with aloof locals wanting to keep it hidden and detached. There is no such attitude in this part of the country!

Gastronomy and Libations

Gosh, where do I begin?

There’s a few basics that are important to know about eating in this part of the Midwest. First of all, the great tradition of a Fish Fry and Supper Clubs is the why-go-to-Egypt-and-not-see-the-Pyramids experience of Wisconsin. Like many parts of the Upper Midwest, there's also a particularly heavy influence of Nordic culture. Naturally, breakfast food is decadent and filling. Al Johnson's Swedish restaurant is often cited as the favorite breakfast experience on the peninsula. Had we not been there in the early season, it is often a several hour wait.

Nordic States of America

We loved the Nordic cuisine but our favorite restaurant was actually a Southern-European place called Parador in Egg Harbor. There are those out there who would say can't get a good tapa outside of Spain. But when the farm that sourced the meal is practically two blocks down the road from the restaurant, that is pretty hard to beat. And believe me, I've had some great Tapas in Granada, Spain (they basically invented Tapas). Later in our trip, we literally visited the creamery and farm that produced our charcuterie and cheese plates.

It almost goes without saying that the meals are hyper-local. The same goes with spirits and beer. Though it might not be obvious on a map, Door County is an ideal environment for the growth of apples, cherries and even grapes. The farm tour of Lautenbach's Orchard was well worth the nominal fee. On the tour, we learned a lot about how the combination of the comparatively temperate climate created by Lake Michigan along with the ideal soil created by the Niagara Escarpment essentially makes this a Napa Valley of cider production. Our favorite cider that we tasted was the Island Orchard Apple lavender cider produced by Farms on Washington Island. It is Wisconsin summer, bottled.

Our favorite restaurant in Egg Harbor

A fairly accurate photo of how much we enjoyed our Wisconsin tapas

As for other spirits, we were never far from a vineyard nor a microbrewery. After one of our hikes, we stumbled upon Door County Brewing Company in Baileys Harbor. Ever the connoisseur of darker beers, I gravitated towards the Polka King Porter; Rich and earthy, toffee notes without being overbearing, it almost had a tobacco like finish. Dee who is an unapologetic hophead appreciated the In a Factory Downtown which was only available on tap at the time. The tap room is a great spot for a flight or a pint- I wished we had brought back a growler for the stuff you can only get on draft.

As for liquor, Door County Distillery is a good stop on the way in or out in Sturgeon Bay. The bourbon is an interesting take on the Kentucky classic.

Apple Lavender Cider

"Keep Wisconsin Beer'd"

Hiking and the Outdoors

Our thought was, “Well if we're going to be spending so much time eating meats and cheeses in washing them down with local beer, we better be doing something to deserve it!” We love hiking anyways and the peninsula did not disappoint. After striking up several conversations with locals, it was clear that Peninsula State Park is the main attraction in the way of hiking. Our favorite hike of the entire trip was to Eagle Trail- Steep and rugged enough to be a workout, the effort is rewarded by sweeping views of Ephraim Bay and 10 story tall Cliffs. Road and mountain biking is also a popular pursuit within the park. I enjoyed our drive on the Skyline Road, especially the classic view of Green Bay from Sven’s Bluff. To top it all off, there's a quaint Lighthouse open to the public in the High season.

Peninsula State Park

North of Peninsula State Park and also on the green Bayside are Ellison Bluff State Natural Area and Door Bluff County Park. Both parks are characterized by panoramic views that are easily walkable. The hike to Deathdoor Bluff does involve a little bit of ruggedness. However you could get to it within about 15 minutes.

Another hiking destination that is often cited as the favorite of locals and regular Travelers is Cave Point County Park. I don't think I've been anyplace where County parks have such a high distinction. Typically I am avoiding them for the lure of national and state parks. Do not mistake the modest title as being any less deserving of a visit to the state parks. Cave Point County Park is perhaps one of the best photography locations and an excellent place to kayak. Facing the Lake Michigan side of the peninsula, the place is marked by extremely clear waters and rugged Cliffs. I would say that most of the top photographs of Door County come from Cave Point County Park. It is nestled Within Whitefish Dunes State Park which is also a great place to hike. With just a 10-minute walk along the coast, we were able to leave any sign of a crowd behind and felt like we had the park to ourselves. It's a pleasant feeling to have a place like this to ourselves.

Cave Point County Park

Ellison Bluff State Natural Area

Deathdoor Bluff County Park

Washington Island

At the northernmost tip of the Peninsula, Washington Island creates the namesake of Door County. Many who visit wonder why it is called “Door County” and in spite of the pleasantness of it, the name of the county is actually from the French name “Porte des Morts” (Death’s Door). Porte des Mortes is the narrow channel that weaves between Washington Island and the mainland and it connects Lake Michigan with Green Bay. In the much earlier days of sailing in the Great Lakes, this notoriously treacherous strait cut travel time by as much as a day at the cost of the risk of a shipwreck. Although the “ Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” has made the general populace aware of the sailing hazards in the Great Lakes, Death's Door was much more notorious in the two centuries prior to the famous song.

Schoolhouse Beach

Fortunately, with modern Lake going vessels, it is a less dangerous trip. In fact we loved our crossing by the car ferry to the hamlet of Washington Island. There are several things that cannot be missed by visiting this isolated place. The first is the moped rentals which is an appropriately European way of traversing the island. The little downtown area of the island has several shops and amenities. However we preferred the several beaches that were extremely photogenic. The first one we stopped at was Sand Dunes Beach. Again we were amazed that we had such a beautiful place to ourselves. We had lunch at one of the picnic tables and listen to the sound of the lake. Naturally there was plenty of tomfoolery with running up and down the dunes.

The lavender farm on Washington Island, is one of the largest in the country. You can smell the lavender from a mile away prior to arriving. You can essentially get anything and everything Lavender in the little shop. Our favorite part of the farm was wandering through the actual lavender Fields.

Sand Dunes Beach

Continuing with the theme of island hopping, Rock Island State Park is another can't-miss destination of this part of Wisconsin. A small passenger Ferry brings you to the entrance of the State Park, and the hiking opportunities are abundant. It is a very well-preserved wilderness with plenty of opportunities for more strenuous hiking or careless beachcombing.

My absolute favorite destination on Washington Island was the Mountain Wayside Park. A wooden stairway leads to the summit of the island where there is a old fire lookout with a 50-mile view at the top. On a clear day you can see the entrance of Green Bay as well as a massive portion of Lake Michigan. The state of Michigan can be clearly seen as well. The Summit is an excellent place to see the rural beauty of the island.

View from Mountain Wayside Park

The last destination of our tour of the island was Schoolhouse Beach, frequently cited as the most scenic beach of the Great Lakes (if not the country). I could not keep my camera in my pocket, everything looks so tropical. Crystal blue waters and white stones created an ethereal look. I wished I could have spent all day lounging on the shoreline.

Final Thoughts

Door County is a special place. This is news to nobody, but it is a special place nonetheless. For us, it was one of those rare well-known places measured up to its reputation. (We have been disappointed by places with similar notoriety such as Niagara Falls, Cape Cod and Oahu). The congeniality of the locals, the characteristically glorious and craggy shore line of Green Bay and Lake Michigan and the intensely local flavor of the food and spirits all contributed to the timeless feel of our vacation. I hope that we can return again, perhaps to catch the fall foliage.

Door County, your reputation for travel is well deserved!

Five Favorite Outdoor Adventures in Indiana Dunes

2017-05-01T09:39:00.001-04:00

As the Spring approaches, the Upper Midwest explodes in to a lush wonderland and I start planning my summer escapes. A destination that I've become particularly fond of is the Indiana Dunes area. Here are my five favorite outdoor adventures in the area

Mountain Biking the Outback Trail at Imagination Glen

I've literally mountain biked all around this country and I'm so thankful that one of the best destinations I've ridden is 40 miles from the Chicago Loop. Composed of the "Front Side" and the "Dark Side", the Outback Trail is certainly on its way to being and International Mountain Biking Association "Epic Ride". Each trail has a different personality- the Front Side has a more relaxed flow where you can appreciate the abundant wilderness of Salt Creek. On the other hand, the Dark Side is the double-black diamond of mountain biking trails in Chicagoland. While novices can still enjoy both trails, it certainly attracts its fair share of hardcore enthusiasts. Thankfully they are very welcoming of more casual riders too!

Hiking the Indiana Dunes State and National Parks

The first time I ever visited the Dunes, I actually took the South Shore Line from Downtown Chicago right to Dune Station. Before I knew it, I was hiking in the backcountry! I liked the "Three Dune Challenge" because naturally I want to hike all the high points of a place. A few years later I discovered "Big Blowout" which is a more elusive dune near the boundary of the state and national park. The view from the "summit" is incredible, especially on a summer day. Lake Michigan looks just so blue! "Big Blowout" is also an excellent place to catch a sunset and see the Chicago Skyline off in the distance

Hiking/Biking Coffee Creek Watershed Preserve

This is a place that took me a while to discover. Usually I'm so focused on getting to the beach that I forget that there's a lot more to see in the area. Quiet and secluded, there's an abundance of wildlife and wilderness tucked away in this park. I found it to be a fantastic birding location. There's about 5 miles of trail systems that circumnavigate the park, which are great for casual meandering or enjoying some stillness.

Dunns Bridge

Further South is Dunns Bridge which crosses the Kankakee River. The legend is that it was constructed from the infamous Ferris Wheel of the 1892 World's Columbian Exposition that put Chicago on the map. This section of the Kankakee River is particularly scenic and paddling opportunities do exist as there is a boat launch. Locals love this place for dropping a line, either from the shore or a boat. Personally, I just love spending time taking in all the nature at this place.

Birding

Birding is something that I've only recently been introduced to. What really began this interest was the fact that the Indiana Dunes are such a destination for serious and amateur birding. While the entire Midwest acts as a highway for migratory birds, the Indiana Dunes has a particularly high density and concentration of species. The reason for this is far better explained by serious birders, but essentially the North-South orientation of Lake Michigan acts as a funnel of species to the Dunes Area. Its a major rest-stop for the massive journey. Hence, it is very easy for people like me with less experience to have a great birding experience. In the spring, especially on a windy day, it is very easy to spot larger birds of prey. Fall offers excellent warbler viewing with many bright and musical specimens. I would venture to say that in the circle of professional birders and photographers, Indiana Dunes is known nationally as a destination for this pursuit.

Can't wait to get out there soon!