Confessions Of A Tile Setter

2024-11-23T09:10:00.000-08:00

In order to cut in these niches, I took the entire process outside. I used a piece of large cardboard and marked out the position of the niches to produce templates for one side. I then placed these on top of the tile on a table outside, then marked the right side tiles, I then just flipped that new cut tile onto what was to be the left side tile and marked that to be cut. Doing this insured the two halves would line up as close as possible.

What was behind the tile was Hardie Backer that was taped and covered with Red Guard. Inside the niches I added Silicone sealer under the Red Guard and tape to insure a good waterproof seal.

It can be a challenge to install niches and these days. So I have incorporated Aluminum for trim and edges where necessary as opposed to surface cap tile with a painted edge which has become a problem when the tile wasn't cut properly. I have been supplied Surface Cap that was supposed to be 3 inch wide end up with 1/8 in differences in tile width on one piece. Then having to order more Surface Cap thus extending the work process.

In this photo but not seen is the Red Guard behind the bottom row tile that flows up behind the tile about 8 inches covering a 2x6 and 2x4 plate.

Pro Tip: I know you can order surface cap at different suppliers for different widths, but be sure to check it out before you leave the store. If they ask why you want to measure each surface tile tell them "experience".

Where Is The Best Place To Buy Tile?

2022-05-17T12:05:00.005-07:00

For Starters, Floor and Decor

Why Floor and Decor? because they have a huge selection to choose from in just about any style and price range necessary. They have a large selection of Design Elements and trim available to solve many of the toughest materials to work with.

The best tile shop also depends on your location, budget, and quality of material and above all, service. However, your smaller tile shops tend to use mid and upper grade products for their quality and attractive design. Although dot matrix printing has come a long way in creating a natural look in ceramic tile to natural stone and wood, there are some distinct differences in $6 to $10 a square foot porcelain and $2 to $4 a square foot material.

What to watch for is fit and finish. Smaller tile shops are usually just display stores and you have to order it and wait for it to arrive. Then go pick it up or have your installer do it. My suggestion is always have your installer go with you to the tile shop of your choice because there are details in all tile jobs that may require a special type of trim to finish out an edge by use of a bull nose, surface cap, metal, or other type of trim to finish out a tile wall so you don't fill it with just grout. I have done that, you can still make it look good, but the job just looks better with some king of trim transition from tile to wall.

The above job I installed had surface cap built, this is where the tile shop sends out some of the wall tile to a contactor who cuts the tile into say 12 inch X 3 inch strips then smooths an edge over that will be placed around the perimeter of the shower wall and in this example I used it in the top underside edges of each niche as well. Your run of the mill inexpensive ceramic tile in a 4x4 or 6x6 will have all manor of trim options to go with but you must be sure to pick up, order or get enough for the job.

In this install on the right I used surface cap around the outside and inside the niches with a ceramic design element inside for a unique visual to help break up the square lines. This turned out to be a really sharp clean looking shower with Kudos to the owner for selecting the materials. The glass enclosure turned out to be a bit more challenging. We ordered the enclosure with Chrome trim to match the fixtures we were installing. The first shipment received was Oil Rubbed Bronze. After we sent pictures we again requested Chrome and after a couple weeks we received Brushed Nickle. Finally, we received our Chrome trim, all but the glass door handle that turned out to be too small for that door with predrilled mounting holes.

In this example below, I used builders grade 6x6 with basic black design element I found on a sale box and just made it all work. The niche has two black Granite shelves, bottom shelf actually runs out over the edge a a bit to give the niche a bit more depth. New fixtures topped off a nice clean rebuild. I ran the tile to the ceiling so no need for trim up there and just needed surface cap down the sides and inside the niche.

Is Slate Good For Showers? And Why!

2022-04-19T07:40:00.001-07:00

NO!

In all the bathroom showers I have torn out and rebuilt, Slate has been the worst performing material followed closely by Travertine, then Marble of any type.

Slate, will begin to split and small shards peal off. Slate is very porous and I would not recommend Slate in a wet area, even a walkway particularly outside. Slate takes more work and material to install. We have to seal it, before grouting to keep the grout from changing the color of the Slate and getting stuck in the rough texture. It takes more work to grout. Slate is fine for interior walls in a dry environment. Porcelain in a slate design would be OK.

Travertine is a beautiful, warm. interesting earthy material and is porous like Marble and must be maintained unlike say Porcelain or Ceramic. I have built many showers with Travertine but a Travertine design in Porcelain would be a better choice in the shower. Having said that, Travertine is the shower material I have ripped out or re-grouted and sealed largely because of mold growth in heavily used showers.

Marble is used exclusively in many tile showrooms for display and comes from many parts of the world and offers many gorgeous design ideas. Marble has advantages in that we can grind down and mold Marble and Granite to whatever shape or size needed in different situations. Marble is great for Mosaic Tile for design elements on 12x12 sheets we can use in different applications. Marble demands more regular care and attention with careful cleaning and sealing.

Granite, although a very hard material I prefer to use in features and or Mosaics in showers for design ideas like 2x2 shower floor tiles etc. Granite we can also grind, shape, and polish to fit certain uses. I like to use Granite as shelving and bottom tiles in niches. Here is an example of one I did a couple years ago where we used Granite as a shelf base for the two niches. There are a couple reasons why this is a good idea. It looks great and you can cut, grind and polish this to fit. Frequently, standard trim pieces of tile are not wide enough to fit around a niche as trim on the inside of the niche. You end up with a small thin tile strip in the back of the niche. With Granite, you eliminate that. You can also extend the Granite out slightly to offer more shelf space as you can see here.

A lot of folks don't like to hear this but it's the truth and hope I can help remodeling homeowners from regretting their choices. I wouldn't put this out here if I didn't feel strongly about this, and tile construction is an expensive outlay of money. Get the best you can for the money and long haul, your mileage may vary. Suntango

Why You Can Like A Shower With No Door

2022-02-03T18:45:00.078-08:00

Having torn out and replaced many showers I have determined in many construction related instances it is possible to reduce the shower surround and thus probability of reducing mold growth. Black mold to be exact.

We were contracted to tear out a totally glass and 6x6 Travertine shower and rebuild it. "The reason?" They couldn't keep it clean. The entire thing was enclosed much like a sauna. I reckon there was a thinking this would be a good thing, an enclosed steam room while you shower.

The problem was the open door presented an obstacle and was designed to close so the always moist and warm environment a set up for mold and mildew.

Technically, when you shower, there should be a fan drawing away the moisture. This can work better if you have a simple walk in.

Now, if you are like me, I love hot showers and with the work I have been doing and past injuries, a warm shower raining down my back and shoulders are the only therapy I am willing to pay for each day and consider that therapy. It feels good and relaxing.

The image below is an example of a no door shower as well and carries with it a warm feel although many might not like the thought of no glass. If you want more cover you could raise the short walls to shoulder height and give you more cover and niche opportunities on the inside and outside for accessories. I've seen a lot of accessories in showers. A husband might shave in the shower and need room for mirror, and shaving stuff, wife might have some special soaps and moisturizer, maybe special cleaning tools and brushes, perhaps one of you is disabled and have other needs.

+With any shower rebuild, I strongly suggest you install a handrail inside where you think one would serve you best in case of illness or injury. It isn't a problem until it is. A hand rail stationary on reserve duty will be welcome when the need arises like a sprained ankle or other foot injury. A sickness that might cause an issue with balance short term. This can be necessary for the elderly. This can enhance resale. So please for safety sake, install a handrail inside your shower for stability will you?

In rebuilding or constructing and or designing a shower, consider reducing glass. It's expensive, and I think a great shower can be had that has no need for glass to try to maintain after paying hundreds and thousands of dollars in many cases. Money for the opportunity to work at keeping that expensive glass clean.

Keep in mind, you may always add a glass door later, but if you wish to maintain that option, in the framing stage of the new shower build, frame the entry on either side of opening as if you will hang a heavy piece of glass on both sides. Triple the virtical studs on either side of the shower opening, or where a door would be most convenient. This will afford you the solid framework needed for a heavy piece of glass.

+Note+ I worked with a glass installer to help him hang a door. After it is returned from the kiln, then installed, there is no going back or trimming the glass. There is but tiny adjustments you can make at the hinges to adjust clearances at the sides top and bottom. After hanging the door, it began to sag and rub against the opposite side. We adjusted the sag out, it sagged into the side again. The problem was the wall the hinge was attached to was not quite on a corner and the wall was about 14 feet high to the high ceiling. The 2x4s and sheet rock didn't have the bones to hold the heavy glass door in place. I am not sure what the solution was or if they found one. I was just there to help the guy with the heavy glass door.

FYI, I didn't build either one of these showers on display, these are just examples of what's possible and I've built similar.

Image from Dreamline Kitchen and Baths, NJ.

Engineered Wood, What Is It And Why Would I Buy It?

2022-01-23T18:48:00.001-08:00

Engineered wood, is a thin veneer of a perhaps and expensive hardwood that looks warm and beautiful at less than 1/2 the cost of the real thing. This gorgeous warm wood I installed last year ran around $3.00 a foot and the adhesive about $35 a bucket for glue down.

It took a lot of buckets, I think I used 7 but I also did almost the whole house except for the kitchen and baths.

This installs similar to laminate without the plastic feel and look. Glue down is also preferable to running the wood over a sound or moisture barrier. That gives the wood floor kind of a soft feel.

I will update this soon with some tips for installing this material which is fairly simple. Floor preparation is important and if you don't know what "Level Quick" is you need to learn especially on concrete floors. This wood which is plywood is interlocking but you can run into trouble with hills and valleys in the concrete. Most install instructions say no more than 1/8th deviation on the floor surface and that is deviated all the time. If you can, life will be much easier if you can pour Level Quick over the area you need to attach your wood to.

What Your Unopened Box of Tile Could be Hiding

2022-01-04T05:39:00.002-08:00

On a current job I returned 5 boxes of tile and one box was so heavily damaged all I returned was the box with a forklift hole in it that destroyed the entire box of tile. Too many tiles were broke or chipped so I returned them to HD who had no problem with the exchange.

After receiving 5 replacements and when began installation again. I was reminded that no matter how carefully you move tile there can always be broken tile you just can't see inside the box.

Always order 5 to 10% more when you buy tile. I am fairly accurate and generally have less than a box of whatever left because too much is a storage issue.

However, your personal reasons for a tile purchase may vary and if you plan to stay a while you might want to keep more on hand for cracks and chips as with kitchen accidents and so on.

When dealing with natural stone, Granit or Marble always order 10% more because of the nature of that material.

Also, the cheaper and thinner material expect more broken tile in the box. This box of porcelain with the wood look shown was warped, not square on the ends, noticeable size variations, and more difficult to install.

What Happens When Fresh Epoxy Grout Get's Wet?

2021-11-02T10:44:00.001-07:00

More than one customer looked at me with dismay when I told them that after the shower was built and Epoxy Grout installed, they still need to wait about 4 days before using the shower to allow the Epoxy to set up completely.

In this example, I didn't instruct the homeowner to turn off the sprinklers for at least 4 days so the Epoxy Grout could set up. This is what happens when water is introduced too soon.

So I had to return to scrape it off and re-grout it. I don't like Epoxy for the installation part of it as it requires more work and attention on install with a time limitation of 45 minutes.

It is a much better performer in a shower and does not grout require sealer, but remains a pain to install. When cleaning the grout off, sponges life expectancy is measured in minutes (epoxy chemicals kill sponges) and you had better wear gloves or your finger nails will be the grout color. So will your clothes so keep that in mind. It will come off quickly when wet if you catch it soon but after it sets up even acetone will require a challenge.

This was my fault, my mistake on my dime for not extending a request to shut off the sprinklers for about 3 days.

Hope this helps someone!

Here is the re-grout of these steps.

Shower Pan Built Incorrectly

2021-10-24T12:36:00.001-07:00

This is a classic photo of a shower pan that was incorrectly installed.

This shower pan did in fact hold water as you can see from the mineral and soap stains. These seeped through through the tile grout to the pan.

Very little made it through the scupper slots that would allow this seepage into the drain--WHY? this pan was not placed on a pre-slope. Concrete, or dry pack should have been installed first, then the vinyl membrane shower pan, The slope should have gone sloping up from the drain so water seepage could drain into the drain and not sit to eventually seep back up through the same leaks in the shower floor tile.

This required reconstruction. I have some pictures of the damage that this problem caused and will associate them here soon with the new floor.

"what Lies Under Your Old Laminate"

2021-10-18T14:02:00.003-07:00

While installing engineered wood flooring in glue down configuration, I had to remove the laminate flooring as I was installing the wood.

After removing the vapor barrier that had been down for many years I found this. A damp spot. This entire floor had been leveled with "Level Quick" a Customs construction product you mix with water almost like water and spill it out on the floor to level it up.

When installing Laminate or wood flooring your floor must maintain level within about 1/8th inch. This insures the product will snap together and not leave any dips under the wood flooring that might feel like a soft spot.

In this case, it appeared that the Level Quick hadn't dried enough and the moisture barrier placed over the damp floor trapping it in.

The solution was to wait a few days to allow the surface to dry. I then applied Red Guard as a sealant where there was moisture, then glued the engineered wood down. If this had not dried it could have been trouble but generally after concrete has been down many years there shouldn't be any moisture seeping up.

Most slabs at least in North Texas start with a layer of moisture barrier under the concrete to keep any moisture from under the concrete from seeping up through the slab however unlikely. That cement had surly dried after a year at least. Curing times depend on the concrete mix, sand, rock, temperature, humidity when it was installed.

Moisture barriers for flooring are more important if the floor is being installed on new or green concrete. After a home has been on the ground many years there should be no problem with moisture but there are moisture testing systems you can employ if concern dictates. After 10 to 15 years I don't worry about it. If you run into a damp spot, let it dry before making further decisions. Chances are it will dry and you can carry on with the install.

New Tech On Tile Demo! "Thank God!"

2021-10-15T11:18:00.004-07:00

In this photo I removed carpet to install engineered wood in a glue down format. Wasn't bad at all, just pull up the tack strip, pad, and carpet and haul it off.

Not so with the kitchen and utility room. That came out with a Makita chipping hammer to bust up the tile then come back with another chipping blade to take up the thin set mortar. A lot of dirty, dusty, and in the case of porcelain tile, often bloody.

I would try to mitigate dust but that was almost impossible. Often I would try to isolate the area with plastic and turn a fan on that blew outside only. Or in a bathroom, tape a fan in an open window rarely available to send the dust outside. Neither great options.

Then we used a negative pressure system where a window was used as an air exit and sucked air out of the house making a negative pressure on the inside the home with huge tubes running from the work site pulling air straight outside with a huge fan. Even with that, dust appeared but clearly less.

Now there are tile removal services that use chipping hammers to remove tile but these fools have powerful vacuums attached that pull all the dust out. Then they grind down the thinset and pull that out leaving a clean environment. https://youtu.be/allpRfHsCz0

Today I would much rather hire these guys to do this job. Rates are $2 to $3 bucks a square foot depending upon tile, location, and other considerations.

I highly recommend a service like this to get rid of your old tile after many years of doing this the hard way!

2021-10-07T14:14:00.005-07:00

Engineered wood flooring offers a warm, inviting home environment. I've done enough to offer some advice to homeowners who might wish to install this material.

It is less expensive the standard wood or exotic and glue down feels better than installing over moisture barrier. Installing over a moisture is not a bad idea but it does give the floor a "soft" step that makes it feel like it is a less expensive laminate.

When installing over a slab my advice is level the floor first with "Level Quick" from Customs. This product you mix in a 5 gallon bucket with water so it is like a paint in texture and pour it out everywhere you want to install plank. "Why", concrete slabs are very uneven and where you connect one plank to another can be troublesome if you are doing that in a dip in the concrete. Directions typically say allow no more than 1/8th inch in surface difference between plank to plank but that is hard to determine. The pros just level the entire floor to eliminate the guess work and provide an easier and better looking install. Further, you reduce the possibility you end up with a plank that sinks when you step on it or sounds hollow underneath.

After I get going I take a piece of scrap and make a driving block. That is a piece of plank about 8 inches long and 1/2 the width of the plank. I use that with a rubber hammer to lightly tap a reluctant plank into place. Often you will get one side in and the other refuses to lock in but a few taps with this works well. You can't smack it too hard as you can damage the plank you just put down.

In a box of flooring including engineered hardwood, bamboo, or whatever, know that two different planks are going to be different colors of stain and finish. They will be close but there is almost no way you can get natural wood exactly the same due to the nature of wood.

Good luck!

"When Can You Use Your New Shower?

2020-04-24T19:03:00.001-07:00

When can you use your new shower after completion?

Answer,

After the Epoxy Grout and Caulk is dry-expect 72 hours for epoxy grout.

Give a fresh caulk at the very least 48 hours or more to dry. This is because it needs to set properly.

Using the shower too soon will weaken and in many cases destroy the surface of the grout and or caulk.

Today, all or most of us use epoxy grout that is more robust, easier to keep clean, is more water resistant and overall a much better medium between tiles. Not suggested for hot kitchen applications but fine for backsplashes. This grout is much more expensive and much more time consuming for install. Frankly, I hate it. It stains too (your hands, clothing, tools on install so wear gloves) so one has to be very careful with it. However, it's a better material for the customer and longevity of their shower like this example I completed a couple years ago above.

This Example above is all epoxy grout and the customer had to wait weeks for the glass guy to finish up so there was plenty of time for the grout to seal up.

Some time ago working in Plano Texas I was sent to a home where the customer complained that the grout in the floor of her shower had turned dark and was concerned. She had reason to be. We did not perform the install. I was able to shove a screwdriver into the grout to the thinset mortar. The bad news was all the grout had to come out. It never had an opportunity to dry. The shower began use the day after install and never had a chance to dry and set up.

I removed all the wet grout and drying 24 hours with a fan. I regrouted the shower floor with epoxy grout and explained the customer had to wait 72 hours to dry before using. Problem solved.

When you get a new shower ask about grout drying time or look at the instructions on the pail. It will explain the time necessary to set up.

Sometimes it's hard to tell a customer it's going to be several days after completion before use but it is necessary. Hope this helps.

Slate Tile, Another Warning, Not For A Shower!

2020-02-25T22:40:00.001-08:00

We like the appeal of warm Natural Stone and Slate offers an earthy look but it's days are numbered in your shower.

There are a number of Natural Stone products you see installed in shower design centers all over made from Marble, Travertine and yes, Slate. My advice and I know a lot of design centers will hate me for this but, "don't do it".

Marble, Travetrine and Slate are porous even if polished and will absorb water. Sealer, and let me tell you about sealer, it is meant to be a "temporary" barrier between the surface of a Natural Stone and the liquid in this case shower water. Sealer is supposed to give you time to remove the liquid before it can be absorbed, dry and leave a film etc.

A good sealer like Rainex will repel water for a while but like the windshield of your car it wears off. I suggest resealing your shower every 6 months and no longer than a year.

In this example this dark Slate shower began to flake as the surface deteriorated requiring a complete tear out and rebuild. That's a ton of work and expense and this is the second slate shower I've rebuilt and I have cleaned up and resealed others.

Granite would be a better choice if using Natural Stone but still, it requires sealer. To test the surface sealer of your tile wet your hand and place it on the surface of the Natural Stone for a minute. Pull your hand away and see if it leaves an imprint. Different sealers will act differently but the sealer should stop the water soaking into the surface. If not you don't have enough sealer.

This is why Tile Manufacturers are spending so much time and money trying to mimic Natural Stone. I actually like Natural Stone for the workability. I can cut it with a wet or diamond saw and finish corners by hand. Can't do that with Porcelain or standard Ceramic Tile.

Here is that same shower after we finished it with Porcelain Tile that looked like Honed Marble. We did use Granite on the flat surfaces and shelves in the niches. I think Natural Stone is fine for trim and Design Elements but not a good product for the whole thing.

I am only saying this because this is what I see and what I deal with regularly and want you to avoid telling me what I've heard so many times before, "I wish I had read your blog before we installed (fill in the blank) in our shower".

There comes a time when every shower needs replacing or an overhaul. Remove all the old grout, re-grout and reseal after cleaning the surface. Like anything else they all wear out over time. Fixtures begin to lose their surface coating and all the new has faded and you look forward to a new shower.

New materials and styles are being added daily it seems. I take a stroll through Floor & Decor, the Tile Shop, Dal-Tile and Arizona Tile from time to time just to see what is new in inventory and the material available is amazing!

Plan between $16,000 and $20K for something like the shower pictured all totaled......
.

A Word About Laminate Flooring

2020-02-24T08:44:00.000-08:00

Laminate Flooring has a place and technology is trying to keep up to survive normal wear and tear. Reasons why you should use Laminate are many as are reasons not to.

It's great for a fast economic floor covering with many options in texture, style, feel and look. It is almost indistinguishable when placed next to the real thing in many cases but the reality ends the second a piece of furniture compromises the very thin Formica type surface or water invades the substructure of this flooring.

If you are in an area with shifting foundations Laminate that floats on concrete is good because it doesn't crack but it will swell and need replacing if it gets a steady moisture. If you have Laminate in a bath or kitchen expect a very short life span of your floor.

Here are some pro tips.

1.Do not use Laminate in wet or high traffic areas
2. Do not run Laminate into base, it needs to move under the base or it will buckle
3. Be sure to add moisture barrier between concrete and Laminate-follow directions do not glue down!
4. Get a repair kit or color match kit for the flooring if possible
5. Be sure to order extra material
6. *Cork similar to a Laminate has a relatively short lifespan not suited to high traffic

I have replaced quit a bit of Laminate flooring and I've installed a lot. Engineered Wood is a better choice in my view because some will give you an opportunity to refinish it once if it isn't the hand carved look. Repairs are easier because you don't don't have the particle board substructure to deal with. The cost is the same in many cases as a higher grade laminate like the sample pictured. It's quieter, warmer to walk on and just looks better.

There are rooms in the home where Laminate will work fine and Laminate isn't just for floors. You can get some stunning walls and ceilings by using wood laminate instead of wall paper and the cost might be about the same!

Remember, the best flooring for high traffic areas is Porcelain Tile.

The best tile for Kitchens and wet areas is again Porcelain Tile.

Different lifestyles, no pets, no kids you might get away with more inexpensive Laminate use but if you have kids, dog, cat, an active family don't do it.

Hope this helps.

* I added cork flooring as something not to place on a kitchen floor. I know a well known flooring store had cork flooring in the space for their cashiers. That proved the vulnerability of Cork as it wore away quickly. There are rooms where Cork might be used but I can't think of any.

Tile Store, Why Your Installer Should Go With You!

2019-05-30T22:23:00.001-07:00

There are a lot of important items to consider when selecting tile. One is cost of installation. Why do we charge X for one type of tile and Y for another?

It's easy to answer, some tile is much more time consuming to install than others.

Typical 4"x4" builders grade tile is the fastest to install because it is small, light, easy to cut and you can cover a lot of space in a hurry with that.

But there are other things to consider, tile like many substances need some kind of trim generally, be it tile, marble or metal that comes in many colors.

Large format tile be it Porcelain, Marble or Granite in 12x24 size range is heavy and requires much more planning, different tools and work. Natural Stone and most large format Porcelain have to be cut on the wet saw which requires a trip to the saw where ever that is set up and can make for very long days depending on the tile layout. The more complex the more work and trips to the saw.

Trim is needed for outside edges and around corners and niches in order to cover the cut tile be it porcelain or ceramic. Marble and Granite we can grind and smooth outside edges but regular tile needs some help. If all else fails take a piece of tile to a paint store and have them match it even if it is a multi color and just paint the edges with a China brush.

Now that is just trim but tile depending on the type can really be a killer to install. Mosaic for instance demands more money to install even though it is on a backing. Cutting mosaic requires a different level of skill and equipment to accomplish. `Some mosaic has 4 or 5 different materials in it and have to know what happens to each when exposed to hard rock cutting tools.

This tiny black and white tile on the back wall and ceiling of this shower was an 8 in difficulty to install 10 being very difficult. The reason is the tile had no stiff backing. It was akin to trying to install a wet washrag into the adhesive. After getting the one foot square patches of material into the adhesive I had to go back and straighten every single tile. Did that with an aluminum ruler about the same width of the grout lines. Took forever but got it done.

When you set out to price a job or get an estimate from an installer it is important to determine the type of tile because they might estimate for one type of tile then you show up with mosaic that's a game changer. We also have to un-package the mosaic that can be wrapped in plastic with a hard paper backing with yet another piece of packaging to keep the backing from sticking. The price of installation can quickly double. Mosaic is not tile in the standard sense and there are many reasons for that.

Tools for mosaic instead of regular tile change too. I will be using a 1/4 or 1\8th inch sawtooth notch trowel or smaller to keep the adhesive from pushing up to the surface of the mosaic and now you have an irritating problem to clean up.

Backsplashes for example are typically about 18 inches high and mosaic is in 12x12 pieces that when set side by side connect together as designed. However, the top six inches are now an instant problem because when you start cutting the balance of tile to finish the job being the top 6 inches it will no longer fit together.

It is usually a good idea for your installer to go with you or have a designer at the tile store help you with these projects so you know what material to use in what application to get you the best outcome possible. Good luck!

They Say Clorox Will Not Kill Mold!

2018-12-25T21:27:00.001-08:00

And they are wrong. I say that because of years having success with Clorox and don't listen to me. go to:https://www.clorox.com/how-to/outdoor-stains/mildew-stains/outdoor-mold-and-mildew/

Go to the Clorox site where they actually show you "how to" get rid of mold. I use it frequently in showers why? "because it works!" I wouldn't if it didn't but listen up,

there are mold remediation companies out there on youtube that say Clorox does not kill mold.

In the process of rehabilitating homes I have frequently soaked a shower with mold on the grout from lack of cleaning and maintenance with a 50/50 mix of Clorox and water then turned on the vent and closed the door till the next day. Came back and it was bright and clean.

So don't be confused,Clorox kills the hell out of mold!

3 Million Four Hundred Twenty Five Thousand Pageviews! Thank You!

2018-12-24T19:07:00.000-08:00

3,425,000 pageviews and counting thanks to you the viewer and people seeking ideas and solutions to everyday home repair problems.

What you don't see are the hundreds of businesses that use my articles and photos for their blogs and information pages all over the world. We get tagged from Australia, India, Great Britain, Canada and Mexico. The great thing about the internet is it can be a medium with international reach as if we are next door. I appreciate all readers and comments even though they are business related to be sure.

What distresses me from time to time are the comments I read where the reader says" I sure wish I had seen you article before I installed Travertine in my shower" or something to that nature. Then there are those who read a story and were thankful for the heads up, and that is what I am looking for.

More to come. Thank you.

Shower Transformation In 3 Photos

2018-12-16T08:44:00.002-08:00

Shot 1. You can see some dark lines down low where most water contact is. There is much evidence grout leaking and lack of maintenance on this shower. It has a heavy fiberglass floor and when the drain begins to leak it needs to be fixed quickly. The decision was made to rebuild it.

My next job tear out.

Shot 2. What you see here is what was under the tile and green board I had removed in large sheets. This is the existing sheet rock and insulation that had to be removed and will be replaced with Hardie Backer then tiled. I was gone before the glass surround and door was installed. You can see water stains on the sheetrock from water leaking through the grout and being drawn up into the sheetrock.

Shot 3. Here I added a niche that was not in the previous shower and we used the floor tile and ran it to the ceiling. The curb has no wood in it as it is solid concrete with steel rebar.

I have yet to tear out a shower curb that is not rusty or has evidence of some water invasion.

The wood also shrinks and leaves voids. For that reason my curbs are solid concrete.

Sorry I didn't get a shot of the complete project. I am usually gone when the glass guy shows to finish the shower.

What Happens Ordering Stuff Online

2018-11-04T07:09:00.002-08:00

It can be a frustrating experience ordering and receiving cabinet parts online. The tape is held above the double vanity door and the panel above is 5/16ths of an inch short when it should have been 24 and 3/4.

This was my mistake because I placed the order in the wrong place and to add fuel to the confusion, the other end communicates strictly through email and stand by the phones a couple days a week and they will call back if you have issues. They do have a bunch of instructional videos that show decent detail on measuring and install procedures but the lag time when you would like an answer fast just isn't there.

I've installed a number of Ikea cabinets and those are straight forward and every section has an instruction sheet. Hard to get lost too as all the components are pre-assembled for the most part. Highly recommend Ikea for cabinets for utility if nothing else and the prices are very competitive. Simple to install the self closing hardware as well.

Installing the glass enclosure the customer ordered chrome fixtures to match the plumbing fixtures.

What we received first was this, oil rubbed bronze. Then they sent another set, brushed nickle (see photo below). Then they sent what we asked for...............almost. The glass door which was the first component to be installed has a door handle but the chrome handle they sent would not fit. Too short by about 1/4 inch. You can't stretch glass and you can't drill out a tempered glass door to my knowledge.

The problem with this was I lost about a month of production waiting on parts. So things beyond our control happen to the best of us. Just a regular day I reckon!

Tub Shower Demo Easy Way

2018-10-17T11:06:00.000-07:00

For those of you intrepid DIY'ers here is some advice from one who has done a lot of these. There are a number of things I don't like, like dust, tile shards everywhere, extended clean up, messy work site. So,

I like the easy way and this short video might help even if you are experienced.

Some showers are constructed in such a way that you will have no choice but to make a huge mess. Sorry, but they really built the heck out of showers a long time ago. Well, not that long but I was mixing mud for tile guys in the early 1970's so I would say until Hardie Backer came out showers were solid as a tank and a lot of work and weight to remove.

At the jobsite a dump truck would drop maybe a yard or two of sand, then I had to unload many bags of portland cement. Then I would mix sand and cement to a specific consistency then carry it in 5 gallon buckets to the worksite inside the house. The tile setters had forms set for countertops and screed boards and wire mesh stapled to the studs for showers. Then starting at the bottom they screeded cement from the bottom to the top and encased the shower in cement but before the cement was dry they installed tile.

Grout was a cement based material but color was added if one wanted colored grout. This was a massive amount of work and material but a lot of those showers are still in service today. Tearing them out is as much work as installing them it seems. Contractors must charge more to rip those out.

How To Cut Glass Tile Video Explanation.

2018-10-11T10:13:00.000-07:00

Probably one of the most popular posts on this blog and viewed many thousands of time is how to cut glass tile. Still working an in depth video but I am sure this will help. Know that any glass tile can be cut with a wet saw. If you have large solid glass tile just run the material through the saw slowly.

If the glass gets hot during the cutting process it will blow out. The glass will get hot and it pops out and probably ruin the cut. Small glass tile is easy just follow the information. These tips help me and should help the do it yourself type and even if you have been in the business a while.

Thanks for watching!

New Wood Flooring "VS" Your Pets, Who Will Win?

2018-08-26T19:47:00.000-07:00

Wood Flooring will lose.

OK, you just installed you old worn out carpet with new warm wood or engineered wood flooring partially to make it easier to clean and eliminate some of the odors that can emanate from older carpet.

Besides, you got a good deal on the material and installation.

You have a couple large dogs one of which might be sort of active.

This can make floor selection material difficult but I want to help you with that.

As with Marble, Travertine and Granite Tile Manufacturers are doing their best to manufacture material that looks exactly like these more delicate materials for a very good reason. They are very soft and wood is no exception and I would also avoid Laminate.

I have a number of long time friends and customers that through experience have done just this, installed a beautiful new wood floor only to have it scratched throughout by the furry family member not knowing this sort of damage could come so quickly, but it does. I've walked over a brand new floor looking painfully at the new surface now marred that will take special care to attenuate the damage.

⟴Pro Tech Tip; For fine scratches in your new wood floor, spray a little WD-40 on a terry cloth rag or towel and rub gently. Usually this will take out the scratch cosmetically. Most wood flooring will have a light urethane finish on engineered wood for example and WD-40 can make it invisible. Did you know that WD-40 is made from highly refined mineral oil with other ingredients. The fish oil story is not valid.

⟴More severe scratches might require a felt tip "stain pen" which you can find at (HD and Lowes ) paint section has a similar color to your floor and this will cover deeper scratches but always be ready with a rag or terry cloth towel to wipe up the excess. You don't want to replace a light scratch with a dark one. Keep some WD-40 handy if you get too much stain down and need to mop up excess.

Wood looking vinyl plank will wear down and is unrepairable. Chairs reek havoc on this new wood looking material so I wouldn't suggest it for a high traffic area.

Laminate in a high traffic area would not be my choice either.

Here are some solutions, tile manufacturers have come a long way in a short period of time miking wood looking tile look like the real thing with an attitude! That is something I think has been sorely lacking in tile style and design but I am seeing a lot more now and the price is as inexpensive as wood. Install isn't cheap but when you consider maintenance and durability I would back the use.

This is kind of a reclaimed plank that looks exactly like wood. I found this at Floor And Decor and it is amazing.

All I am trying to do is think of somewhere in my house I can install it. This stuff is awesome. Another shot below.

This material is porcelain and I viewed some wood like tile that is all ceramic that also looked like the real thing.

I honestly don't know where I would install this but I did help a friend do some work on an upper end house in Castle Rock Colorado a few years back and his customer had some distressed lumber tile installed under the dining table area and it rocked!

So, if you have big active pets I advocate wood looking tile to extend surface utility and ease maintenance.

How To Clean Marble Or Natural Stone

2018-08-07T07:15:00.001-07:00

Marble Institute Of America!

https://www.stonesofnorthamerica.com/care/

I personally do not advocate using Marble, Travertine and other natural stone in showers or wet areas because it is too soft and hard to maintain. I built this shower recently and all the tile looks like marble but it really is Porcelain and manufacturers copy natural stone for a reason.

Please read the following if you wish to install a natural stone in your shower and what you must do to maintain it from the Marble Institute of America who study the installation care and maintenance of the stone.

To get the longest life and preserve the beauty of your natural stone, follow these simple tips:

Coasters: Use coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices.

Trivets: While many stones can withstand heat, the use of trivets or mats is recommended.

Dust Mopping: Dust mop interior floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt and grit are abrasive and can damage natural stone.

Mats/rugs: Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt and grit that may scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a slip resistant surface.

Vacuum cleaners: If used, be sure the metal or plastic attachments or the wheels are not worn as they can scratch the surface of some stones.

Spills: Blot the spill with a paper towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.

Cleaning:

Clean stone surfaces with a neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.
Similar to any item cleaned in your home, an excessive concentration of cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Follow manufacturer recommendations.
Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results.
Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth.
Change the rinse water frequently.
In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of some stone types.
In outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

Cleaning Products:

Many suppliers offer products used for stone cleaning.
Products containing lemon, vinegar or other acids may dull or etch calcareous stones.
Scouring powders or creams often contain abrasives that may scratch certain stones.
Many commercially available rust removers (laundry rust stain removers, toilet bowl cleaners) contain trace levels of hydrofluoric acid (HF). This acid attacks silicates in addition to other minerals. All stones, including granite and quartzite, will be attacked if exposed to HF.
Do not mix ammonia and bleach. This combination creates a toxic and lethal gas.

Sealing

Sealing is a common step taken on some stones as an extra precaution against staining. In fact, the sealing products used in the stone industry are ‘impregnators” which do not actually seal the stone, but more correctly act as a repellent rather than a sealer. Sealing does not make the stone stain proof, rather it makes the stone more stain resistant. When consulting with your stone supplier, you may find that many stones do not require sealing. However, applying an impregnating sealer is a common practice.

When considering sealing, remember that sealing the stone does not make the stone stain proof, it makes it more resistant to staining.

If a sealer is applied in a food preparation area, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use.

Consult with your supplier or sealing manufacturer specific to the type of sealer and frequency of use recommended.

Stain Identification Tips

Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. Stains can be oil based, organic, metallic, biological, ink based, paint based, acid based. If you don’t know what caused the stain, consider likely staining agents that may have been present. Here are some questions you consider:

Where is the Stain Located?

Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used?
What color is it?
What is the shape or pattern?
What occurs in the area around the stain?

Stain Removal Steps

Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical.

What Type of Stain is It?

The following sections describe the types of stains you may have to deal with and the appropriate household chemicals to use and how to prepare and apply a poultice to remove the stain.

Oil-based
(grease, plumbers’ putty, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)
An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with one of the following: household detergent, mineral spirits, or acetone.

Organic
(coffee, tea, wine, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings)
May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

Metal
(iron, rust, copper, bronze)
Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice. (See website on Using a Poultice –
https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/consumers/poultices.cfm. Deep-seated, rustystains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.

Biological
(algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)
Clean with diluted cleaning solution. Use a 1/2 cup of any of the following: ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide and a gallon of water. Reminder: do not mix bleach and ammonia.

Ink
(magic marker, pen, ink)
On light colored stones, clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. On dark colored stones, clean with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Paint
Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razor blade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available from hardware stores and paint centers. These strippers normally contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; repolishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for use of these products, and flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on oil-based stains.

Water Spots and Rings
(surface accumulation of hard water)
Buff with dry 0000 steel wool.

Fire and Smoke Damage
Older stones and smoke or firestained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning. When the smoke is removed, there may also be some etching (due to carbonic & other acids in smoke). Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.

Etch Marks
(caused by acids left on the surface of the stone)
Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain. Others will both etch and stain. Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or repolishing etched areas.

Efflorescence
(a white powder that may appear on the surface of the stone)
It is caused by the deposition of mineral salts carried by water from below the surface of the stone. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out. Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture.

Scratches and Nicks
Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and repolished by a professional.

Using a Poultice
Go to https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/consumers/poultices.cfm for more information, or call a stone professional (recommended).

Natural Stone Easy to Clean and Maintain!
Call your professional stone supplier, installer or a restoration specialist for problems that appear too difficult to handle.

Here is the link for more information and thanks for reading and visiting my site!

https://www.stonesofnorthamerica.com/care/

Bass Pro And Interior Design

2018-07-31T06:04:00.002-07:00

I love to wander through marvels of interior imagination at work and Bass Pro is an elegant example of the best in the craft. Bass Pro is a destination and not just a retail operation. It is designed with immense flavor of the outdoors. It is teeming with small and large examples that reflect what the customer might feel he needs or wants for that perfect outdoor adventure.

You home does not need this much sensory overload generally but simple touches can give you home a flavor that you might want to exude. In the photo to the left is a luggage display in a neat pattern with fish photos, fly rods and fish examples placed on a rustic wood backdrop. The flooring is dark stained concrete with a gleaming urethane surface that has depth and critter tracks exiting the scene.

The display is tactically lit, each item specifically displayed and easy for the consumer to view and inspect which is a common thread throughout the store. This display puts you in this gorgeous luggage near your favorite Fly Fishing adventure!

In this photo though not as good as the top shot there are beams that are cut to the shape of a Marlin's or sharks head above the clothing rack in the fishing section. "Could you imagine open beams cut in a similar fashion?"

These are small touches that can make a retail establishment a great experience to visit and small touches similar to this can add flavor to your home. I am not suggesting you build a Bass Pro or an IKIA Kitchen but I did see an actual golf green in an office with a hole in the floor for golf balls.

I have seen waterfalls in showers and huge Marble slabs backlit behind bars and on tables in condos that exuded clever sophistication. We've installed design elements to mimic small streams in bathrooms and installed rock shelves for a bold and masculine flavor. Flavor does not need to be all that expensive either.

"Quickest Way To Remove Mold From Your Shower"

2018-04-01T11:47:00.001-07:00

1. Commercial Spray Bottle or used Lysol plastic bottle

2. Clorox and or liquid bleach

3. Mix 50% water 50% bleach

4. Spray on shower walls just after using shower

5. Ventilate room or close door and turn on exhaust fan

Know this, this will destroy mold and mildew but will do little to remove soap scum and mineral deposits. Soap scum and mineral deposits attract mold and mildew.

For mineral deposits use CLR but do not mix these two products together. Many caustic chemicals mixed together can create a rather harmful concoction so just don't do it.

Use the bleach one day and the CLR another, with CLR again spray it on and allow it to work for at least 5 minutes before scrubbing off and for that I recommend a large sponge with a scrubbing mesh on one side. You can find these in the tile section of Home Depot or Lowes about $3.00.

Both of these cleaners will reduce over time the integrity of the grout in your tile and if you have natural stone like Marble or Travertine it will etch the nice shiny surface you once had. To help restore that use a "Wet Look" tile sealer. This is why I have little use for Marble or Travertine in wet areas and this is why tile manufacturers are working overtime to make Porcelain tile that simulates Marble or Travertine and that is because Porcelain is far more robust than Natural stone.

As an installer Marble and Travertine have many properties that I like but I would never use these in a shower by choice due to the difficulty maintenance and cleaning it presents. Essentially, you must treat those products like car paint.

About tools for cleaning, any time you use Clorox you have to use a spray bottle that already had a bleach product in it.Using a Windex bottle for example might make it through one or two cleanings before the spring and seal mechanisms deteriorate.

With either this or CLR use rubber gloves and if you are working CLR it is advised to wear eye protection when you agitate the surface. CLR is an acid base type cleaner. The directions even state "do not use on natural stone tile". CLR contains gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, surfactants, glycolic acid and sulfamic acid. (from Hunker.com)

The CLR container also says specifically "do not mix with bleach!"

CLR does a fantastic job with soap scum and mineral deposits on glass like a shower enclosure.

Hope this helps and for those of you getting a home ready to sell these products are necessary.