Confessions Of A Tile Setter

Modern Tile Design Samples

2013-05-04T13:48:00.002-07:00

Finding the right design for your shower or bath can be daunting. There are many tile shops that give you so many options you don't know where to go or what to use.

We showed up at an upscale home in North Texas one cool morning. The homeowner knew exactly what she wanted. she pulled up a page torn from an "In Flight" magazine, you know the ones the airlines provide in the seat pocket?, then taped it to the wall. She pointed to the tub shower combo and said, "I want that shower here". It was a simple black and white Art Deco design with ceramic subway tile and black and red pencil liner tiles not pictured here.

We said OK and proceeded to build her shower. Turned out perfectly. This is an example of what you can do when planning your remodel project.

There are a number of places, books and publications where you can look to get some fabulous ideas. I suggest you try some local tile and flooring shops or start at the closest book store. In the Home and Garden areas you find a wealth of examples to choose from.

If you already have a theme you are trying to follow throughout your home then you have half the battle won.

Many times we enter a home and the homeowner has no idea as to what they wish to do and many know exactly what they want.

I was tasked with repairing a shower in a home in McKinney Texas. It was a very small stand up shower with a an 18 inch door. It had white 4x4 tile and that was it. After removing the damaged tile I found repair not feasible and it was to be rebuilt.

This belonged to an elderly couple and all they wanted was the exact same shower that had lasted them the better part of 40 years. I was able to convince them of some modern ideas like 6x6 tile would be better in eliminating some grout lines, convinced them to add a niche for their soap dish, convinced them to add a small design element, and convinced them that a larger door would benefit them.

It all worked. They were happy with the larger door and the niche was found to be a nice convenience that replaced a plastic gizmo that hung from the shower head. The water valves remained the same but the innards were new. Some things never change and some do for the better.

A long time ago I had the opportunity to drive an old chevy pickup into town to make a drop off and to pick up some feed for the horses. This was a 1939 - 1940 somewhere in there. It had a potato masher starter, split front windshield, non-syncro tranny, in line 6 cylinder, and topped out at about 60 mph. It was noisy as hell, the steering was loose, suspension like riding on a milk crate, and my excitement about driving this old jalopy was quickly overtaken by the realization that there is good in new innovation. It was a piece of junk!

Like televisions that are instantly on, phones you can carry in your pocket, and cars that last a couple hundred thousand miles if cared for, it is good that the future has met the remodeling industry.

Porcelain Tile Install Laser

2013-04-28T08:13:00.000-07:00

Click images to enlarge.

My sister sent me a little kit from Bushnell some time ago and in it was a Laser, Stud Finder, and Tape Measure. I dropped the laser in the bottom of the tool box where it lived for a couple years. Then one day I was preparing to layout a floor for tile that had a span of about 35 feet. I had no help because I typically work by myself these days, my string line was dry, and I needed a straight line to determine the best way to install the tile.

While rummaging through my tool box for some chalk powder I located the Laser but it had been down there a couple years at least so I figured the batteries would be dead. I pressed the on button and it lit up so I pressed it into labor and have been using it ever since. One thing is for sure you will get a straight line. What I do is set it up at a station or a standard location and you can do something as simple as draw around the base of the laser so you can get it back to the same location if you have to move it. As you can see by this photo the laser line is exactly between the tile. The dotted line is actually ridges of thinset left from the 1/4 inch notch trowel.

This works well if you are working by yourself, don't have help or a chalk line to pop lines to tile from. Generally I will find the longest and straightest wall Measure out a number of feet from the wall and make a mark on the floor. Then go to the other end of the room and do the same thing. Place a white piece of paper at the wall near the last mark you made and set up the laser so it crosses each make on the floor and you have a line. I turn off the laser and use it periodically to be sure my tile is running straight which is easy to do because you can easily see the laser line between the tile as you would if you had a chalk line.

This laser will work down to 1/8th inch. All you have to do is be sure the light passes through the grout channel from one end to the other on your starter course.

This laser has a base and it can be leveled to find dips and valleys in floors because this not only has a vertical line it has a horizontal line. I level the unit pointed in the direction I wish to run, then establish the level point by placing a tape about a foot in front of the laser to establish a station. Then move around or away for the laser using the tape to see if the floor sinks or rises. This helps a lot and shows you where you will have issues or need to fill to level.

I have not used this laser over more than 50 feet or so and I cannot vouch for the accuracy at distance. The laser seems to get larger and expand with distance but I use this all the time now.

I have not seen one exactly like this anywhere but I am sure they must exist. I picked up a backup a while back but it does not have a level pad and it uses these tiny batteries as opposed to the double AA's that goes in the Bushnell as depicted.

I am not suggesting you go out and buy a laser but keep in mind you can use them on tile and they have other uses as well. If you are interested, have a look around Amazon. These start at about $10.00.

Saving Money On Tile Products

2013-04-14T07:38:00.002-07:00

I like to keep a paper products around primarily to wipe up excess Sealer when I seal tile and other small jobs. I also like to use the heavy duty Paper Rags and you can find them in different areas around Home Depot and Lowes. These boxes are convenient and hold about 200 sheets on a roll. The box pictured here is a little over $10 bucks.

I also use these to clean fixtures, polish tile after grouting, wipe up accidents, and help dry wet surfaces and clean tools.

After a tile job is complete there is general cleaning I do wiping up the dust and grit that accumulates after completion. These are handy for many other uses such as wiping up excess paint or paint that ended up where you didn't want it. I use it with Toluene to clean up around shower fixtures that I caulk with Silicone Caulk. Toluene by the way is a staple chemical we use for Silicone cleaning and other uses. Another name for it is "nail polish remover". This stuff can erase a stubborn stain and destroy a sensitive surface so be careful with it.

Now, I was looking for some staple products a while back was about to buy another box of rags until a sale tag caught my eye. There was a package of 10 rolls of paper towels for $7 bucks. I picked up the 10 rolls and still have some left. As you can see below there is package of 20 rolls of Bounty for about $17 bucks. Now I don't need that many but when I need more paper this is what I will look for
so I keep a roll in the garage to check oil in the rigs, a roll in each vehicle to clean glass and mirrors, a roll is in the truck with tools for every day work and more.

The point of this short article is that if you look around you can find deals that can save money on everyday products and specific projects you have in mind. There are frequently alternatives that can be found regarding everyday task and desires if you look for them.

This goes from tile to to cleaning products. Now, there are times when there is no substitute for an original product, for instance, there is no substitute for the Rigid or Bosch diamond bits I use to drill holes in Porcelain because I have tried them all an I will stick with what I know works.

Seats in Tiled Showers

2013-04-09T12:36:00.001-07:00

If you were to remove your standard existing tub/shower combo and convert that space to a simple shower you would have a very comfortable 3 foot by 5 foot spacious shower. This example is simple, clean, attractive, and functional.

This kind of conversion offers you the opportunity to install options that serve several functions. In this example I pulled the tub, moved the drain (easier said than done by the way) and installed this attractive and comfortable shower. Expect to pay about $4000 to $5000 and up for something like this but it could be done for less with different materials. Always know that Frameless Glass for a typical install like this is about $1400 in this area.

In it we discussed installing a seat and the initial discussion was to install a square seat that took up the entire back of this enclosure. Typically in that kind of seat install concrete blocks or wood framing was involved and I simply refuse to build those because these corner seats work and function much better.

These come in 3 sizes and this example is the middle size which worked out perfectly for this space. In the framing part of this build I install 2x6 backer between the studs where we plan to install the seat. After the Hardie Backer and shower pan is installed I install the seat frame. These are made of aluminum and are screwed into the wall at the height the customer requests and is something to check before installing. You have to be sure that there is fall to the front of the frame when installing and then you fill it with dry pack sand mix including the front.

Here is a tip for those who decide to install one of these; they come with a set of stainless steel wood screws and here are two options. 1. Chuck the stainless steel screws and use 2 &1/2 to 3 inch all weather deck screws or, 2. run a deck screw through the hardy backer an inch then back it out, then run the stainless steel screw in permanently. The problem with the stainless screws included with the seat package is they are a soft metal and it is very, very easy to strip out the Philips head slots when you try to drive them through Hardie Backer. So, it is wise to pre drill a screw first and you reduce the possibility of foul language filling your surroundings. I also use a couple more fasteners than are included with the install package. After you drive the screws in firmly cover them with Silicone Caulk so there is no possibility of moisture getting behind them. You also want to caulk between the aluminum and the wall along the top edge according to instructions as I recall.

Something else I like to do is use a large tile or material of different color to contrast for the seat top. This makes the seat a bit more interesting and using a single piece you reduce the possibility of water invasion through any grout lines on top of the seat. It overlaps about a 1/2 inch and this example is 1/2 of a Marble Natural Stone Tile. The other 1/2 I used for a small corner shelf in this very shower.

What makes these better than a square block seat is you can store something under the seat if needed. The underside of the seat is bare aluminum but since it gets in touch with little water there is no corrosion. I recently resealed this example that I installed over a year ago and upon inspection there was no mold or evidence of corrosion. It looked as it should be.

These aluminum seat frames start at about $40 and go up from there. A square frame is available too if one wanted one. I highly suggest folks consider installing a seat because it can be used for a ladies to shave legs, stretching to allow a more comfortable hot shower to those hard to get to joints, and a simple place to put stuff temporary or permanent. They are attractive and larger shower just seems incomplete without one. I hope this information might add an idea or a little inspiration to your next project. By the way, this particular seat example in this photo is designed to hold over 400 pounds.

If you don't have a seat and you want one in your shower, Marine Grade material is needed and here is an option;

nstall through Hardie Backer.

Then it is on to the Tile installation.

Preferred Tile Install Products

2013-03-28T08:40:00.001-07:00

On a walk through Home Depot recently I took some shots of products and prices that I and fellow tile setters use on regular basis because of their performance. And what I mean by performance includes their application and service life. I will start with one of the very last products I use on a tile job, and that is the Sealer I like to use. It isn't the cheapest but it is one of the best and this little jug will last over a number of small jobs. I pour this into a spray bottle and apply with a large sponge and remove excess with paper towels. Follow install procedures that includes testing the tile surface with water until it beads up nicely. You will need to apply at least two coats on Natural Stone like Travertine. Now remember this, there are two types of sealer, this example is regular sealer and a similar sealer is called " A Stone Enhance" type that makes the tile surface have a wet look similar to a urethane finish.

First, when rebuilding a shower space for example, I remove all the backing which usually includes all the sheet rock and down to the studs. This is done to expose the framing and plate stock for signs of water damage, pests, and rot so they can be replaced. Costs associates with replacing lumber you can expect starting prices at $35 to $40 and up per stud. Be advised that if you plan to install frameless glass know that it is very heavy and anywhere it is to attach to a wall that section of wall needs to be very robust. I generally instal at least 3 studs plated together and if we are talking 9 foot walls most likely 4 particularly on the hinge side.

Then after re-framing we install dead wood when needed to install Hardy Backer. Hardie Backer by the way, is not 1/2 inch thick as it appears and the slang term we use to differentiate between 1/4 inch Hardie Backer.That fact needs to considered when Hardie butts up to1/2 inch sheet rock. It will be at least an 1/8 of an inch shallower that will need to be floated flat before tile install. Now, there are other products that do meet the full 1/2 inch thickness like Green-board and there are a few new ones I haven't used yet.

When installing Hardie Backer, remember this material comes in 3 foot by 5 foot sheets so think about where studs and dead wood needs to be placed due to this size. It is better to have more wood behind this material in corners because when installing fasteners the material is less likely to break out at the point of the fastener. I like to use 1 and 1/2 inch deck screws because they will not shoulder up before getting into the material and the added length makes it less likely to strip out before pulling the backer into the framing. I don't like the purpose built fasteners for backer because it is too much trouble getting those fasteners level with the surface of the backer. If you can place a tile flat on the backer and you can rock it over the fastener it will need to be sunk deeper or removed.

This is by far my favorite adhesive. White Thinset mortar. This has a very good potable lifespan, offers some flexibility on floor tile, easy to mix, and has good adhesion. This is only used however on light colored tile or Natural Stone like White Marble or light Granite and this is more expensive than the gray Thinset Mortar by the way. You can buy cheaper Thinset Mortar at about $7 a bag or you can spend over $20 for the premium stuff. These are what myself and others use regularly if you are interested. A typical tub surround using a 1/4 notch trowel will require at least one bag and if you have a shower floor with deep mosaic and mosaic on the walls get two. Remember too it is much easier to remove the wet Thinset Mortar when it pushes up between the tile on install than trying to scrape it out before you grout. So, keep a bucket of water and a sponge handy to wipe out all the excess when that happens and it will.

When it comes time to grout, this is what I use generally. Sometimes I get it from my wholesaler but the cost difference between Home Depot and the wholesaler is insignificant really. Home Depot has "Customs and Lowes has Mapi" products. The colors are similar but not the same.

This example is "sanded grout" but you may need "non-sanded" grout which generally comes in boxes just like the one depicted here that is sanded grout as well.

So be mindful of that when purchasing grout. You can get non-sanded in big bags too but usually from wholesalers and other specialty stores. It is often better to buy more than you need and keep some for repairs or return unused boxes. The Mapi stuff is OK too, I just prefer the mix-ability of Customs.

After grouting the tile and it has had time to cure, before sealing, I go back into the show or surround and caulk the corners with Customs caulk that comes in the same colors as the grout. It isn't exactly the same color but blends well enough and the purpose justifies any color difference. The reason is that virtually all grout corners will crack slightly or somewhere in modern day construction. So, to mitigate this problem I caulk the corners. And, here in Texas, it is especially of concern.
1 tube is more than plenty for a typical shower. Seal up the nozzle real good and keep for later use.

After the grout and caulk has had a chance to set enough, it is then time to seal the tile and grout, you then go back to the beginning of this article. Remember too that this will need at the very least 24 to 48 hours to cure before use. Reseal as needed but I suggest once every year at least and every 6 months if your shower get's a lot of use. Do this to help eliminate the proper atmosphere for mold growth.

There you have it, many of the everyday products and prices myself and others in the bath remodeling biz use if you are interested.

Demolition Tools And TIps

2013-03-09T21:30:00.000-08:00

Several times a year on tile remodels we are tasked with breaking out concrete to move a drain in a bath tub shower conversion. I have found through the years that more equals less work when it comes to breaking out concrete.

Although this photo is a bit dark what you see is a Makita 35 pound Breaker I rented from Home Depot
(about $45 for 4 hours and a $70 deposit). Although I do maintain adequate tools for what I do I have found it much more convenient to just rent the big stuff. This way you don't have to find a place to store it, maintain it, and worry about buying one and all the accessories. If you talk to the Rental Counter, they will help you with the tool accessories to do the job. In most concrete jobs you will just need a point and they provide you with a heavy duty extension cord.

Using this equipment is faster and does the job. Using small tools you find at Harbor Freight will work eventually but it is hard on the equipment and you. This job took less than an hour to carefully bust out the concrete needed to move the drain. It would have taken much longer if the concrete had been poured around the plumbing which is a no no.

There should be sand or dirt around the plumbing under the slab and not surrounded by a beam or slab concrete. The only place there will be concrete plumbing contact is right around the shower drain and that is it. In this example the floor is being prepped to move the drain to the center of the new shower where the tub used to sit.

Looking in from the back yard we are about to remove this outset in the old tub shower that is ready for renewal to eliminate a big 4x5 obscure window along with some deteriorated lumber.

As I mentioned previously, in about 80% of all bath remodels we find some kind of unwanted critters and this was no exception. Here we had carpenter ants but in most we find either Acrobat Ants or Sugar Ants. If you think you have some ants, Borax is a good powder to eliminate them or diatomaceous earth. Read health warning labels. Just Bing or Google Sugar ants you will find a slew of remedies and concoctions to deal with the ants.

Although termites are the most dangerous as far as your structure is concerned, know that carpenter ants can do a lot of damage too.

Here is an example of what we don't like to see, concrete attached to the plumbing. If the slab moves just a little bit, it can easily break the PVC plumbing drain. If you were to rotate this plumbing Tee to the right you would see it in perspective as I broke it out of the slab with some concrete attached. What makes this problem real bad is that this will leak sometimes for years constantly soaking the soils under the slab unnoticed until your walls crack above the beams and doors stop working properly.

I would say that one in ten or so have concrete around the plumbing that can cause an issue but you will never know until you have to break it out and when you do, dont skimp on the equipment.
TIPS
1. use more than you think you need when breaking out concrete.
2. buy some contractor plastic bags (about $17 at HD or Lowes)
3. dump your broken concrete into 5 gallon buckets with dust pan
4. have plenty of ventilation or have fan blowing out a window if possible
5. wear hearing, eye protection and gloves
6. DO NOT LET BREAKER TOOL TO GET ON YOUR FOOT-it can go through it quickly
7. do not break concrete from around cable slab cleats, they can expode
8. do not cut through a cable-do not cut through a cable-do not cut through a cable- this is skull and cross bones territory folks, possibly deadly, and I mean it!
9. if you penetrate the plastic around a cable, grease it up and wrap it in plastic

Confessions
I have found that many county dumps will not allow broken concrete into their landfill. I have found that a 3/4 full bucket of broken concrete dumped into a contractor bag is about all the weight it will handle comfortably and I have found plastic bags go to the landfill with no problem.

More On Mold In Shower

2013-02-20T22:32:00.001-08:00

You don't have to be muscle bound to stay on top of mold growing in your shower. You need to eliminate as much of the conditions that promote the worst kind of mold. You can do it with regular maintenance and light use of a mold cleaner from time to time.

I recently addressed a shower in a high rise Condo in Dallas. It was a large shower with glass that enclosed the entire shower. The only time air or moisture escaped or entered the shower was when you got in or got out. The walls were of course, Travertine. This was the perfect environment for a nasty mold infestation for sure.

This Condo had been sold and was in the process of renovation and my suggestion was to remove all the glass and install a minimum amount of glass to allow air to flow through the shower to help it dry. Beyond that I suggested a total demo and rebuild with materials that were less conducive to mold like porcelain or even regular ceramic. Even Honed Travertine stood a better chance than the porous Travertine that was installed.

I treated this shower with a mixture of bleach after informing the owners that this would remove all sealer and would etch the surface of the Travertine but we could rejuvenate the tile with Stone Enhance Sealer later on if they decided to keep it the way it was. After cleaning this shower I undertook a new assignment before learning the fate of this shower but here are some tips for you;
1. Have the exhaust fan on in your shower if you have one
2. If you don't have one they can be installed for a few hundred bucks and often can incorporate a light
3. Use a sealer on the entire interior of your shower-it provides anti-microbial properties
4. Clean your shower regularly, at least once per week
5. Use a squeegee to pull water off the walls and glass, we can probably use the exercise anyway
6. If you have a shower curtain leave it open to dry, many curtains can be thrown into the washer for cleaning
7. Use larger tiles in the shower construction to mitigate grout lines that can attract mold.
8. Minimize articles laying about the edges of the shower that make it harder to dry and clean

These are some fairly simple steps you can follow to minimize mold. If you see it start, remove it quickly. Lysol and Comet liquids with bleach can be used to clean your tile just know that if left on the surface of natural stone tile it will etch the surface much like acid etches glass. Then, rinse with clean water when done.

Cleaner such as these will also remove the sealer too. I suggest you reseal your shower a couple times a year. Many of these sealers promote a life span of years but that is under optimal conditions I am sure. If your shower walls repel water you have have less opportunity for mold growth. Sealer does not water proof anything, it simply resists water for a period of time. If for example you spill a glass of wine on a kitchen floor and it gets into the grout, a sealers job is to resist the wine from staining the grout till you clean it up. Leave it there a day or so and allow the acid in wine to do it's thing on the sealer and you will still get a stain.

Regardless, you can pick up a spray bottle of sealer at HD or Lowes for under $14.00 and it will last a really long time. Just spray it on, use rubber gloves, sponge to wipe it over the tile and and grout even if you have regular old 4x4 tile, then wipe with paper towels to remove the excess and streaking, allow to dry then you are done till next time. If you don't want to go to HD or Lowes you can order it here. Custom Building Products TLOSQT-3 TileLab OneStep Cleaner and Resealer

When Is It Time To Rebuild Your Shower?

2013-02-20T22:29:00.004-08:00

Sometimes it is painfully obvious. The tub in the second story bath begins to leak. Tiny cracks where the grout has been worn down and caulk has failed. It's only the kids that use that shower, how damaging can that be?

Regular use without the benefit of some regular maintenance will lead to failure particularly with modern construction.

Modern construction means more with less. Less in quality in materials and more money in the builders pocket. The good thing about modern construction is it makes tear out a whole lot easier. Just 4 feet above the top of the tub there is a seam where two sheets of greenboard (sheetrock) meet. Cut out around the mud cap around the tile. Then go up 4 feet and start breaking out tile until you can get your fingers or a pry bar behind the greenboard. Then just pull until it comes off in sheets. I like to leave the tile attached to the greenboard. Less work and dust.

Looking at this ceiling, there has been a leaking tub shower. The culprit we discovered was a loose and un-caulked faucet escussion. That metal plate that fits closely against the tile. Water from the shower head leaked behind that escussion and damaged the ceiling in the bath below and the bedroom next door.

As if this weren't enough, the greenboard behind the escussion that was loose is now compromised. It will last a while if the greenboard is allowed to dry and the problem fixed. But this generally does not happen.

A way to test the integrity of the greenboard is to simply press in on the tile and see if the grennboard flexes easily. If it does and your tile is loose and you find yourself caulking tile back in place it is time to rebuild.

To rebuild a standard tub shower surround you can expect to pay a starting price of at least
$1850.00 using very cheap 4x4 ceramic and it takes a couple guys a solid day to a day and a half for one guy depending upon the materials, design element, niche, hand holds, fixtures, curtain rods or other enclosures etc. It never seems to be a simple thing. There are always additions to consider for resale, utility, use, functionality, design, comfort, and access.

You can save up to about $400 on the tear out if you do it yourself.Some contractors may not want you to do that though.

In this example I installed this subway tile surround in two days but there was more work done. There was a wall removed and I had to go into the attic to add fill and dead wood. Sheetrock is fairly simple but this is another trade entirely.

The good news about cheaper builder grade material is it is easier to cut. That being said, it is a good idea to have several extra square feet of the material because it breaks easier too. If you buy tile from a big box store be sure to look at every box to see if they have been dropped or damaged. Builder grade tile is thinner so you it is simpler to break. Being thinner it is lighter but you also have less grout.

When you have to install builders grade thin ceramic tile, be sure the backing fasteners are do not protrude above the surface of the Hardie Backer, greenboard, Durock, or whatever you use. Seal all the seams and make them smooth. If you do not do this, your tile will rock on a fastener or seam that is too high and be a problem.

More From Floor and Decore

2013-01-31T08:05:00.002-08:00

It is really kind of nice when I can walk a customer through a Tile Store and show them what certain materials, colors and textures would look like in their shower or bath.

This little design element is from a display at Floor and Decore and emphasizes Marble Tile in a shower or bath setting. Click to enlarge.

On the other hand, the massive amount of material can be distracting because there is so much to look at but for me, I really prefer the chaos of too much to look at as it gives the consumer more choice. You can find Porcelain that looks just like Travertine made of more robust porcelain and does not scratch like Travertine or Marble Tile. With a vast selection and a little time you can also select alternatives that are more affordable than what you may have wanted anyway.

Here is a Marble and Glass design element that looked attractive. Although I prefer a lighter color in tile, many will go dark and that is fine but one thing one must always keep in mind are some basic rules of interior design, and you can find them in builder Model Homes.

Builders are concerned with one thing, "sales". So they spend millions and millions of dollars on Interior Designers and Architect's to keep up with modern trends in style, utility, and engineering. For instance, a lot of builders are now doing away with copper plumbing. Your next home might may well have a "manifold closet" where your main water line runs to. You will see a bank of valves that are labeled so from this one location you can isolate a plumbing leak without going outside to hunt down the main shut off valve and still be able to shower in another bath. Is common sense finally getting normal?

Here is an example of Vinyl Tile that is simulated wood. This material can go just about anywhere. Porcelain Tile, Laminate, and other materials are working their way into the new home and remodels. There are many styles, textures of Vinyl and some of these don't even need adhesive. Many adhere to themselves and actually float on the floor rather than stick to it. This eliminates adhesive and all the tools needed for that. So, if you are a do it yourselfer don't overlook Vinyl. It is attractive, simple to install, above all robust. For maintenance, you can get it wet, vacuum it, mop it, sweep it, and this gives you a lot of options. Don't overlook Vinyl for your flooring needs. Another advantage a floating floor such as floating Vinyl and Laminate have is that if the slab cracks, it will not bust up your beautiful floor tile job. If you live in an area where the soil is very unstable like Texas, this is a real problem. Most people who have tile installed of course want the best price but to install tile over another substrate to eliminate floor cracks can be an expensive proposition.

Modern glass has gotten a makeover in some ways as well but the cost of entry can be prohibitive. Frame-less glass is useful, attractive, and expensive. One of the reasons is because it has to be custom cut to fit your shower opening, then it has to be sent to another plant to be tempered and returned to your installer. This process can take two weeks easily in a remodel project so beware. This example was at Floor and Decore in a bath display.

Have a look around when you are contemplating new construction at all that is available. Consider what you want to use where and think about the kind of use that surface will get. You might want to ask how much traffic and potential wear or damage it may receive.

Floor And Decore Options

2012-12-30T08:15:00.000-08:00

On a recent visit to Floor and Decore I was reminded why I like the place. In a word, "selection". They have a vast inventory of material. If you are looking for bargain priced Ceramic, Porcelain, Glass, or just about anything you can find it there.

Vigilance can result in significant savings too. I have installed a lot of flooring and backsplash from Floor and Decore and although not much of it has been expensive the quality has been good.

There have been times when I've had to resort to shaving off a side of tile to square it up or make it fit but generally I inform the homeowner ahead of time what to expect regarding width of grout lines and other anomalies that have to be dealt with using cheaper materials.

In the above example my customer had a tight budget and selected this flooring at almost half price. This allowed more of the same to be used even though it may have not been the exact color she wanted. I have installed quite a bit of this material lately and I found some interesting information.

You have to use a sound and moisture barrier over concrete with this flooring. It works well. Now, the barrier manufacturer says to run the barrier opposite to the direction of the flooring and flooring manufacturer says to run the barrier in the parallel direction as the flooring. Which one do you choose? I chose the flooring manufacturer advice. Always use a better or upgraded backing material especially when using a lesser grade of laminate.

Something else about Floor and Decore, in this example, a lot of exotic material like hand painted Mexican tile can seem out of reach price wise by many but if you cruise by from time to time you might find exactly what you are looking for. Here we have a simple hand painted appearance tile discounted significantly.

This is where tile installation can get pricey. When installing mosaics and exotic materials extra care must be taken for proper fit so installation costs escalate. If you can get bargain priced material for that special look and feel you are seeking it can make the difference between having and not having what you desire for that particular design or theme.

I sometimes will buy some cool looking tile or Granite scraps that I am able to incorporate in customers installs at a later point.

We brought a piece of the Fireplace stone to see if we could find some floor tile that would match. In this case we came fairly close. Some of this 16x24 Porcelain was installed in front of the Fireplace, in the entry, and in the kitchen and dining area in a brickstack pattern.

The piece of Granite offered a contrast and was the counter tops.

Floor and Decore do not have and use the same grout material that you find in Home Depot. Some of the colors may be the same name but don't count on it. However, when you get into darker colors you may not notice much difference. I was able to find a a sanded grout Caulk from a different manufacturer that worked well.

Getting the most from your money is the name of the game these days. Look around and a little vigilance could save you some money on your next project.

How To Save Money On Tile Remodels

2012-11-30T20:30:00.002-08:00

The economy struggling under unnecessary economic pressure is forcing homeowners to don work clothes, dust masks, and knee pads to save money on their next remodel. Demolition is one thing that homeowners can do at the delight of tile installers, for the most part and as long as it is done correctly. When you begin a tile demolition on a floor or say a tiled tub wall, you need to know how it was built to make it easier to remove.

In a tube shower wall, the plumbing contractor was looking at a 3 foot x 5 foot sheet rocked area for the tube. He installed the tub, then the contractor installed green board on the edge of the tub and around it. Then the tile contractor tiled the space. Because the tile contractor used bull nose trim up the sides of the tile and across the top you know there is most likely green boad under the tile.

When in demolition of a tub shower wall, measure up 4 foot above the top of the tub. Behind the tile there will be a seam between two sheets of blue board. Use a hammer and bust a line through the tile along a line 4 feet above the tub. Behind the tile you can exploit that seam to remove the green board with the tile still attached. It is far easier to remove say 4'x4' slabs of green board with the tile still attached than dealing with thousands of tiny shards of tile, dusty green board, and any other stuff in there.

Simple tear out.

As you can see from this tear out I did some time ago, virtually all the tile is still intact. If you are keeping the tub you will need to tape couple layers of cardboard or use some 1/2 inch plywood or something to cover the tub porcelain to protect it. You can do it too with U-Haul type shipping blankets. The bottom line is not to chip the tub which will do so easily. If you do chip the porcelain, you can fix that with porcelain paint you can find in your local paint department. Some of it is epoxy. The best practice is don't chip it. (Savings about $400.00)

This is one of the simplest things you can do to save as much as $600 on your next bathroom remodel. Look for closeouts at your big box stores and Floor and Decore. Remember, a close out means if you run short you may not find the right tile to finish the job so be sure to buy in excess of what is needed but the savings could well be worth it. Expect over 50% off on closeouts. On a floor, it will be a matter of the proper equipment and brute force. Although I have removed many a tile floor with little more than a good hammer, dust pan, and contractor plastic bags, using power tools will make the job go faster. You can rent a Chipping hammer for about $40 bucks for a 1/2 day or there about. Be sure to get a an 1" and 1/2 flat chipping bit if not larger to help bust up the tile. I scoop up the broken tile and drop it into a 5 gallon bucket. You will find if you are placing the broken tile in plastic contractor bags to haul it off, a 5 gallon bucket is about the right size weight wise for the plastic bags. It is easier to fill a 5 gallon bucket and dump it into a wheel borrow or plastic bags.

After you have removed the tile, use a 4 inch blade scraper to remove any remaining thinset or grout. After all the tile is removed it is a good idea to mop up the dust with a mop and bucket. When you grease and flour a cake pan to keep the cake mix from sticking to the sides of the pan, so too can dust on the keep the thinset from adhering to the concrete. Always wear safety lenses, a dust mask and certainly gloves when handling tile. The surface of ceramic tile is glass and will slice you open like a Thanksgiving Turkey with relative ease. Be sure to get and wear knee pads.

Seal the tile and grout yourself. Give it about 24 hours to dry then apply the sealer. I use a sponge and spray bottle a'la WIndex or something like that. It is important that you remove the excess with paper towels vigorously to keep from leaving streaks and dry the surface. This is to keep you from tracking the sealer all over your other floors like hardwood for instance. If you do happen to do that, get sealer on your hardwood finish, get a dry terrycloth towel and buff it out. You can save anywhere from $75 to $150 by sealing the install yourself.

Cash. You may be able to get a discount from a contractor if you offer to pay in cash. This gives the contractor an attractive option and it is his business how he handles incoming revenue. There you have it, I have listed about 4 things you can do to save about $1000 or more on your next remodel. Of course these are generalities but this is how you can save nonetheless.

What's In Your Drain?

2012-11-27T22:38:00.000-08:00

Frequently during bathroom remodels for one reason or another we have to move the plumbing. Reasons are to accommodate larger tubs, elimination of a tub into a large shower, moving walls, adding new fixtures, etc. In this process we are challenged with all manner of material and objects from wax build up to broken tools inside pipes and drains. One thing remains the same no matter what the drain challenge is, "it had better work better than before when we leave". I have chiseled PVC drain lines out of solid concrete where there should be sand, and pulled a delicate gold chain out of another and returned it to an dumbfounded and amazed owner. In the photo above the homeowner said the tub drain was running a bit slow, I can't imagine why.

In these photos a slow drain was disabled for 5 years when someone snapped off a plumbing snake deep inside and under the slab. We were tasked with installing new floor tile which meant removing and replacing the toilet. And that meant it needed to work after we were done. After removing the toilet we broke out the slab and dug into the soil and cut the old iron pipe in two. I then dropped my camera into the hole and a photo in one direction and then the other. That is how we discovered what you see in the photo. The offending plug was removed, pipe repaired and everything replaced. As intended, everything worked better after we were done.

In this example we had to move some plumbing to fit a new tub. The homeowner hadn't complained about a slow drain but as you can see by the photo it wasn't long before it would be stopped. What you see here is iron drain pipe with wax build up from hair conditioner and soap wax. As usual we had to clear all this when we completed the job. So, if your drain is running slow there is definitely a reason. These are extreme examples but it is better to get after it sooner than later and you never know what you might find.

How To Stop Mold In Your Shower

2012-10-30T10:44:00.002-07:00

There are a number of aspects to consider in construction of your shower and maintenance that can reduce and even eliminate the constant prospect of mold growth.

First, if you are building a new shower and want Natural Stone for the walls and floor, do not select Slate, porous Travertine, or a rough Natural Stone. These tiles and their rough texture invite mold growth.

Do not fully enclose the shower with glass unless you are building a Sauna or steam room. If you have an environment that is constantly wet and damp again you invite mold. A sauna or steam room will require maintenance unlike that of your shower to reduce growth of mold. This example above is not enclosed and has ample air flow that will aid in drying the shower walls and floor.

Always have a fan that can pull out damp air and remove it. Proper air flow in and out of the shower area is really needed. Always be sure to have Natural Stone walls and floors sealed with proper sealer. I would advise use of sealer in "any" type of shower will aid in reducing mold because most are antimicrobial and will reduce mold growth.

Regular maintenance is very important to remove the beginning of mold growth. Stop mold at the beginning through regular maintenance and you can stop mold growth period.

I have rejuvenated moldy showers but it takes some work and harsh chemicals to eliminate mold and there are more than one type. Some are very dangerous indeed. Your shower could be making you sick and not even know it if you are hyper sensitive to mold. Mold is a growth you should take very seriously.

Without regular maintenance, cleaning with some kind of chlorine bleach will be necessary from what I've seen. Never use Comet for anything because it will scratch surfaces even on Porcelain tile or tub and shower surfaces.

To sum up tips
1. clean and maintain your shower at least once per week
2. be sure you have ventilation to dry shower
3. apply sealer at least twice a year to reduce water retention
4. use squeegee to pull water from glass and walls
5. use a porcelain or smooth tile for walls and floors to reduce mold growth

Shower Tile,The ADA, And Wheelchairs

2012-10-22T16:09:00.002-07:00

Due to some associations we have been selected to build and restructure living areas for folks confined to wheelchairs. As a matter of fact, one of the contractors I worked for was in an unfortunate single truck accident that placed him forever in a wheelchair. But that didn't stop him from rolling into job sites from time to time to view our work. It also gave his team a unique view of what is needed to accompany wheelchairs and access in homes and businesses. This is also a tragic reminder that fumbling with a dropped cell phone just isn't worth the distraction. If you drop your cell phone while driving on the floorboard, do like I do, leave the dam thing there until the next stop or until you can stop the vehicle and retrieve it. ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) standards can be found here-http://www.access-board.gov/adaag/html/adaag.htm#4.8

Along with that material concerns develop. So, what do I mean by that? Well, this is what I mean. If you want to construct a wheelchair accessible shower for example, that will mean removing a good deal of concrete to allow for proper slope on a concrete slab and moving drain lines to flow properly. Using light colored materials would not be a good idea and the hardest surface substances you can find would be best. We learned first hand every day what wheel chair life is really like. Clear plastic corner protectors, lowered appliances, cabinets, plumbing, all manner of life things needed some attention in the home.

Travertine for example would not be a good choice nor would Marble and I would have reservations about plain 4x4 ceramic tile and here is why, through moving into and out of the shower I found that the axles and hand wheels of many models built for showers damaged, scratched, and scraped the walls of the shower. Wheels made black marks on Travertine that were a real pain to remove. Black tire rubber can be a problem to remove. Any steel to tile contact needs to be avoided. The front wheels and foot pads also wreaked havoc on the shower walls.

So, what can we do to eliminate this? If you have a larger shower area it can help. Use Porcelain or Granite for walls and floor and if you just have to have a natural stone select Granite. Be sure there are handholds in the shower. Try to find a shower wheelchair with more plastic parts that might collide with the walls when maneuvering in the shower. If you can find one with white rubber wheels that would be good too.

Anytime you have steel that contacts porcelain, it can leave a metal mark which is a pain to remove and keeps products like Bar Tenders Helper in business.. Sorry but even porcelain can be stained by metal.

So, given that our options are limited, we should maximize products that lead to less wear and tear. The ADA might have some advice on this but they are more interested in enforcement than anything else and are very aggressive with respect to that. They focus less on the material and more on the sizes, slopes, access, hand support, etc.

Tile Niche Examples

2012-10-01T09:31:00.002-07:00

With sweeping regulations regarding everything from soap dishes to toilets and shower valves, it is hard to beat a simple tile inset niche for soap, shampoo, conditioner, tooth brush, razor or whatever shower accessories you require.

The neat part is these can be customized to reflect the different materials and design elements you may have in your bathroom. If you have Granite for a vanity top, you might picture shelves in a niche made from the same material, even as corner shelves.

In this example from several years ago you can see how we incorporated the glass pencil liner in the middle of this shelf and the 4x4 glass to highlight the insets.Surface cap was used top and bottom of the shelf and it really took some time to build out but it looks clean, useful, and attractive.

In this example we have a simple and really boring niche
that the homeowner had us install in a rarely used shower.

The cost of installation between these two would be understandable. Costs for built in niches run about $75 as a minimum for something like this simple niche and up.The cost of a niche begins in the framing of the shower and there are a number of different types.

There are prefabricated boxes that we can install into the Hardie Backer that come in various sizes and shapes and there are hand built niches like all these examples.

In this example you see a molded ceramic corner shelf that we are still installing today. In my view these are inadequate for most well used showers but sufficient for moderate use.

A well used shower requires more shelf space for all the accoutrements needed in my view than is depicted here.

These units like soap dishes are generally installed during the grouting stage.

Here we used design element tiles to enhance the niche we installed here just a bit. This shower received a frameless glass enclosure upon completion.

When we demolished the old shower we had to remove the the back wall including the exterior siding. We were walking through the shower into the back yard. Water damage and insects destroyed the 2x4 plate stock and studs.

We ended up re-framing, the space, added new insulation, vapor barrier, exterior insulation and exterior siding and trim.

The finished product worked out nice.

In this example I installed shelves in this niche that were made from a man made Granite type material. I had some left over from another project that was too small for anything significant and too big to just throw away. So, I set it in a corner of my garage till I could find a good use for it.

This shelving material matched the dark Marble Checkerboard design element along the top and
really enhanced the appearance of this niche.

When ever you go about building a shower and have an idea you might want a niche you might ask the installer or contractor if they might have a piece of Granite or other material you could use for shelving that would work into your general design. Granite shops always have pieces, sink cut outs, misfit parts that you may be able to obtain at a significant discount or possibly for free if you don't need a lot and someone wants to get rid of stuff laying around.

These are just a few examples of niches we have done. Many were very sophisticated and took hours build and fit with exotic materials but I don't always remember to carry a camera
when they are complete. These are but a few that we did catch.

Cork Laminate Flooring-Don't Do It

2012-09-29T20:12:00.000-07:00

Since I have been installing a good deal of laminate flooring lately I decided to take a look back at a post I made last year this month Titled, "Why You Should Not Install This Flooring".

And yes, I will belabor this issue because as the title of this blog says, "Confessions of a Tile Setter" I must confess I have seen some very bad flooring that I installed at the request of the homeowner.

In the real world of practicality considering a kitchen environment, would you want a durable, attractive, easy to maintain and design appealing material on a well used kitchen floor with the possibility of overflowing hot liquids, dropped dinner plates and glasses and splashed cooking sauces? or, a soft, delicate, easy to stain, chip, poke, punch, smash, material you cannot hit with a mop once a week to keep clean?

Now I am sure there are some reasons for cork laminate flooring like, "what is a mop anyway?" or I want a soft floor and I have a Swifter. For what ever reasons some folks run against common wisdom and resort to emotion rather than the practical. My reasons for many views is this, "we tear out a lot of this material and this is why".

A number of reasons can effect the removal and replacement of flooring, tile, natural stone, carpet and linoleum. Traffic, water damage, wear and tear, utility, updating, remodeling to name a few are good reasons for new material but, to select a poor material for the job isn't a good one.

I like to wander through home improvement stores from time to time just to see what is new, on close out, sales, and new displays. As I walked by the Cork Laminate display a designer was busy talking up the warmth and natural color of this cork flooring to a customer and it was all I could do to keep my mouth shut. A lot of people in sales are interested in commissions and not necessarily your better end result. Further, as installers we see first hand how this material performs on installation.

For instance, you have to be extremely, and I mean extremely considerate of the top corners and edges of any laminate because it chips very easily. This can damage the whole piece depending upon the location of the install. There are repair kits out there but the hope is to get the material installed before that is needed. Just by installation we find out how robust or weak, square or crooked, flat or warped, and even defected a material can be.

Once again, my opinion of cork laminate flooring is it is a material to avoid.

Curved Shower Rods In TIle Showers

2012-09-01T23:32:00.002-07:00

Lately, I think I installed over a dozen curved shower rods this year so far and I think they are great. For your information, these are going into homes and condos from every economic stripe. In older neighborhoods, Downtown Dallas Highrise Condos, Country Ranch, Highland Park, Coppell, Plano, Allen and all over. These are replacing expensive frameless glass going into many a bathroom overhaul. I am going to share with you some economical solutions to some potentially expensive design issues over the course of many future blog posts. See my Nov. 2011 post on Curved Shower Rods,

This example is exactly like one I installed recently and matched the rest of the plumbing which was Brushed Stainless with two rods. It Is simpler to install these with two people but I manage to do most of my work by myself, but I've done a lot of them as I said.

One difficult task is drilling the screw holes into the tile. Especially Porcelain Tile. If you find yourself in the unfortunate position of having to drill 1/4 inch holes in your Porcelain Tile to affix the Curved Shower Rod Mounts, I have found the best bit is a Rigid 1/4 inch Boring Bit.

This bit has a hole in the middle and you will be actually coring a hole into the porcelain. The outside edge of the bit is covered with Carbide. You must be very careful not to spin it up too fast or let it get hot. If you run that bit at high speed with no cooling you will destroy it in seconds. The same is true for the regular ceramic paddle type bits. You will have real trouble drilling a hole when you get that bit so hot the welds melt and the carbide tips break off inside the hole you are drilling. Then you will really have problems and possibly need to replace the tile.

More TIPS on the bit- I use the Rigid 1/4 inch Ceramic Boring Bit. Some come with a little plastic contraption that is supposed to allow you to fill this container with water and drill your holes somehow. Throw that in the trash. Get an old towel and place it below sitting on the tub or anywhere you need to drill directly under where you intend to drill.

Get an empty spray bottle like a Windex bottle for example where you can switch the nozzle to stream. Fill it full of water. You will need to mark your holes and I use a Sharpie. Begin drilling at slow speed holding the bit at an angle so you can get it started, then raise it to parallel and speed up the drilling adding pressure and spraying water into bit and hole at a continual rate. The water keeps the bit cool and washes out the debris. It makes a mess but for a good reason. If you or whomever has an issue with the muddy water running down the tile wall as you drill you can just tape the towel to the tile just under where you are drilling and it does a good job of collecting the dirty drilling mud.

The double Rod Shower Rod isn't exactly twice as hard to install as the single but if help is available use it. After installing the mounts you have to take care installing the correct rod in sequence and you always have a 50% chance of getting it right the first time. One problem one can run into is not having enough room to swing the rod into position with other stuff in the way. The Double Shower Rod has an advantage in that you can hang a decorative curtain on the outside of the shower and the plastic portion can remain on the inside. This will allow you to change the outside curtain should you wish to clean either one or change color or interior design.

Why You Can't Have Tight Grout Lines

2012-08-22T21:29:00.000-07:00

We are often asked to install tile with really tight grout lines for Ceramic, Porcelain, Natural Stone and other types of tile. Usually this is for flooring but I have installed a lot of big tile in showers and tub surrounds too installing what is provided. But, what exactly determines grout line widths? Click on photos to enlarge.

You would be surprised to learn that we spend a lot of time jacking tile around just to make it fit properly and look good. I frequently will set a tile, then pull it, turn it 90 or 180 degrees and try it again. There is a reason for that. I will also frequently just pull a tile and use a different tile to fit a space. That is why at the end of a job you might end up with some extra tile with adhesive still on the back of the tile but was unused. It could very well be it was too big, too small, warped, or so out of square you couldn't make it work.

This is all in a days work and isn't usually is not an issue unless the customer want's a tight grout line and you are real close on available tile for the install. We can run out of good tile that would effect a tight grout line.

You see, when tile is formed and fired it is impossible for each and every tile to come out of the oven in the exact same size and shape. When I open a new box of 12x12 Porcelain or Ceramic tile no two tiles will be alike except for color perhaps. We try to get as close as we can but after setting 3 or 4 tiles we can determine the general condition of the tile. Even with spacers it can be difficult to keep a narrow straight line and sometimes we may need to push a tile here and there to make everything look uniform. If you want close tight grout lines you need to buy "Rectified" tile. Rectified tile is tile that has been sized or sorted that fit some very narrow dimensions and it will cost you more for a better fit. Now let's take a look at Natural Stone.

Natural Stone is cut at the stone manufacturer. Natural Stone is produced with hard rock diamond and water cutting systems. It's rough and there are a number of aspects of the manufacturing process that effect the quality and thus size and dimension of the tiles. First, the width can vary due to the type, size, quality, and sharpness of the blade cutting the slab. Second, the type and sharpness of the blades, calibration of the saws and tables that cut the Natural Stone Tile to size. Generally the tile is polished to a specific stage and then cut into square and one would think they would all be exactly the same size but you would be wrong, unless again the tile is "Rectified" or sorted into into tight tolerances.

Generally, when a customer requests a tight grout line I pull out a few tiles and check them for size and square to see how it can be used but ultimately, it's the tile that determines the grout line width. I have been known to saw off a 1/2 blade width of tile here and there but it is common practice to just use a reasonable grout width and push the tile as needed to make it work and it generally does.

And another thing,

As with anything else, quality costs money. If you want better quality tile and tight grout lines we can get real close but you probably will not find it at the big box stores. You will also need to save more tile than normal to replace damaged tile because it is common to damage adjacent tile in a replacement situation especially with Marble and tight grout lines. Save an extra box and store it somewhere.

Installing Heated Flooring Under Bathroom Tile

2012-08-15T20:27:00.001-07:00

Installing Heated Flooring Mat under Porcelain Tile is fairly straightforward. However, on a scale of of one to ten, ten being the hardest, I would rate this a solid seven. One of the reasons is because constant vigilance is required to be certain the installer does not damage the flooring Mat that creates the actual heat. For that reason hooking the system up to power and and an alarm system is one of the first things you will do. Second, you have to exercise care when cutting the Mat and unfolding it into the space such that it will cover the majority of area where homeowners would be walking. Click on photos to enlarge.

Then, you will need to cover the material ever so carefully to keep from again damaging the Mat. We turned the system on to heat it up so it would dry sooner as you can see in this photo.

Here are photos of the electrical hookup. When installing this material an alarm remains on during installation to alert you if a wire is damaged and needs repair before continuing. The installation kits come with a DVD and some pretty good instructions and this manufacturer had an 800# for additional help if needed.

You can see the alarm attached in the photo on the left and the connection to the Grid Mat on the right photo. The completed project took several days but looked as customer requested.

Tips For Tiling Around Electrical Outlets

2012-07-26T19:50:00.000-07:00

An often overlooked problem frequently pops up when installing tile. (Click on photo to enlarge)
That problem is not allowing enough room to install the mounting screws for the light fixture or outlet. And, most kitchens have many of them.

The best time to deal with this issue is when you are installing the tile and not when the electrician or your husband, friend, whatever is attempting to install these electrical fixtures. If you don't get this right it will require the removal of a tile or two or more to fix the issue.

My photo here is an example of what I mean. This fixture is actually behind the backer material so it had to be cut out, and the tile going in the slot will need a slot cut into it for the mounting screw as well.

The two mounting screws

You have two mounting screws to accommodate here. One is the screw you do not see that mounts the electrical fixture (outlet or switch) to the electrical box that is fastened to a stud or affixed to the backing in some manor. This screw is generally about an inch long with fine threads down the entire length. These screws are frequently lost and with the addition of backer and a thick tile may not reach the mounting box. You will find a lot of deck screws or inch and a half sheetrock screws doing this job. Most guys grab whatever screw is long enough to fix this that can be found in their tool box.

The second screw, as in this example holds the faceplate onto the fixture. You have to be certain that there is no tile that will get in the way of either of these screws. These face plate screws have a painted head on them and are small and again frequently lost.

What makes this seemingly insignificant issue very significant is that there is probably current flowing through these electrical fixtures. So you will want to shut the power off when working around these. Especially with a damp sponge. I have taken enough power through damp sponges to light up Reno Nevada for a week so I know what I am talking about.

Tips,

When disassembling the electrical outlets and switches, remove everything that that will not be replaced anew and store them in a large freezer bag so you don't lose them.

1. Find the breaker box to cut power when working around outlets and fixtures. When you make cuts your tile will be wet and all you have to do is tap a hot screw and I guarantee you will know if the power is on

2. Pre-assemble tile around fixtures to be sure mounting screws will fit and believe me they are really close tolerances, before adhering into place

3. Pre-assemble electrical switch and cover before grouting. You may have to pull a tile and adjust a cut before final assembly

4. Make certain all power is OFF to switches and outlets before grouting. If light is an issue which it always is get some portable clamp on lights and run extension cords from another room (these lights are about $8.00 at Lowes and HD)

5. If you screwed up and you have tile cut too short for the cover plate, there are over sized plates available that might help you

This is just one of many small items that can become a pain especially if you have to return and redo something you've already done. Sometimes a Dremmel Tool and grinding bit can help but don't wait till later. Do it on install.

Multidimensional Glass Tile Backsplash With A View

2012-07-10T19:40:00.003-07:00

One of the benefits of this type of work are the places you see and the people you meet. In this example this design held an upscale elegance in a relaxed living environment.

Many stories into the Dallas Skyline this striking Kitchen flows with Stainless Steel and Deep Brown Cabinets accented with more stainless contemporary handles. Appliances with Deep Black surfaces add to the attractive design experience.
(click on photos to enlarge)

In Condo's where space is at a premium, care must
be taken in material selection.

"Warm and inviting" fits this Kitchen well. A cozy refuge to be filled with the comforting aroma of hot coffee in the morning,

Multidimensional Glass and Quartz is showing up more and more for it's semi-sophisticated style and function. It is warm and offers a 3 dimensional look. If you are considering installing this type of material, "I have a confession to make", "installing this is hard work and it will kick your ass if you are not ready for it!"

Here are the reasons;

1. It has glass in it, cutting it requires a wet saw and even on your best day cutting this Mosaic Tile on a mesh can be challenging
2. It has Quartz in it, and Quartz is soft and will break easily if stressed as will the longer pieces of glass
3. It has Marble in it and like Quartz it too is very soft and easily broken
4. It eats up Grout like there is no tomorrow, buy how much you think you need, then double it

Tips for installing this type of tile.
1. Painters Blue Tape will become your best friend, get a roll of two inch Painters Blue Tape and lay tape across the entire width of the tile you will need to cut like going into corners and even around electrical fixtures. Mark your lines to cut on the tape. You will be able to see the lines to for one and the tape will help hold it all together after it is cut including small glass shards.
2. Take your time, you will save time and materials in the long run
3. When Grouting, only mix up small batches at a time to give yourself even more time for cleaning
4. Give yourself ample time for cleaning, this is the more difficult type of Mosaic Tile there is to clean so count on extra Grout, Time and Work to get the job done.

In the end it is worth it. I tend to get bored with the same old tired materials and although this type of tile is a bit tougher to install the results can be amazing and will work for years to come.

In my next post we will discuss more design ideas you may not have thought of for any particular room that will prove interesting, inviting, exciting, inspirational, thematic, architectural, dramatic, that is perfect and affordable for just about anything you can think of. "Really!"

Replacing Broken Porcelain Floor TIle

2012-06-23T22:49:00.003-07:00

Even Porcelain Floor Tile, some of the hardest and at times the most difficult material to work with gets broken and needs replacing. In this example, the floor tile was installed and then the painter came in and covered the same tile floors with canvas. Somewhere during the painting process, a very heavy object was dropped on the tile breaking it.
(click on photo to enlarge)

The bad part was the tile ran into a closet which was also fortunate. Unfortunately, the same tile ran under some cabinets that were already installed and would have to be removed to replace the whole tile. So, the decision was selected that had me cutting the broken tile out and turning what was a brick stack grout line in the closet into a simple straight line as you will see further on.

This is a textured tile with a deep brown color and is cleverly accented in an Oyster Gray Grout. This contrast makes for a very attractive floor. Somehow it feeds well into the deep reddish brown cabinetry and stainless steel you see reflected on the floor.

What I've done here to the right is cut a line from the two adjacent tiles to add a grout line where there was none since it was in the cabinet anyway. I then cut a full tile to insert into the space after removing the thinset and grout. All tile in this building is installed on 1/2 inch cork matting to cut down on noise. Care was taken to be sure no other tiles were damaged in the process which happens very easily.

What you don't see is the Blue Tape I used to draw the line between the two tiles before dry cutting the tile. This does two things, it makes the line easier to see, follow, and keeps the cut tile cleaner. This job is a bit easier with two people, the other person to hold the vac tube in place to receive all the dust and and debris

Here you can see the completed repair. The grout is still not dry but you can see that the broken tile originally continued under the cabinet and is behind the closet door. So this repair worked out well. Even when you open the closet door you don't realize I manufactured a grout line where one did not exist but was an acceptable compromise to keep from removing the recently installed cabinetry.

This is an illustration of something that can be done in the event you are faced with an unfortunate broken tile.

The process above when removing the tile required an angle grinder. I've had this little Ryobe 4 & 1/2 inch Angle Grinder for about 4 years now and it whines but still cuts tile. The blade is a Bosch Diamond (non-segmented) blade that runs about $30 or almost as much as the Angle Grinder cost. I also use a Rigid Shop Vac in the process as well.

A line was drawn from grout line to grout line, then I used the angle grinder to very carefully cut the tile. The shop vac was used to at the same time with the angle grinder to suck in the dust and debris from the dry diamond saw cut. I used a hammer to carefully break up the tile and used the chisel and hammer to remove the existing tile, thinset, and grout to level the pad for the new piece. A small amount of thinset was used to install the new tile piece. A small amount of grout was mixed to grout the lines.

This repair looked as if nothing had ever happened, just like this repair below-----Nope, you can't see it can you? And that is the way a repair should be. (click to enlarge photos)

"Who Knows What Evil Lurks Under Your Shower Pan"

2012-05-24T21:55:00.000-07:00

You arise and enter the first well used sanctuary in your home. As you walk in your nostrils catch a nano particle of a peculiar odor. You think you have smelled it before but you just can't recall.

You ask your spouse, "honey, do you smell something funny in the bathroom?" " Yea, but I think it was from your tacos last night dear", kind of smells like a sewer I think".

You wanted a shower with no grout lines. You wanted a shower with smooth sides and Cultured Marble fit the bill. It is a little tight but I don't have to take care of grout lines mold growing there.

I understand the want and need for that Cultured Marble shower, but I have a confession to make, we tear out more of these than we install. As matter of fact, we have NOT installed a Cultured Marble shower since I have been around these remodeling contractors in the last 5 years. That should tell you something. I have torn one apart and replaced the pan and drain then re-caulked. I have just re-caulked many Cultured Marble showers. But for the most part we rip them out and replace them with tile, ceramic tile, porcelain tile and natural stone.

In this example we did about 4 years ago, the customer complained about an ever growing offensive odor that wafted through the bathroom. The unpleasantness turned into a decision that entailed a total bathroom rebuild. In this photo I have broken out the floor and I am using a shop vac to remove the offensive murk. The shower pan did it's job but it was not installed properly. The water that was retained and went bad should have drained out through the weep holes in the drain assembly. It did not however as you can see. It is black, it really stinks, and I can't wait to get out of there.

I have to say that I have torn out tile floors that were leaking too. So this issue is not specific to Cultured Marble. Maintaining Cultured Marble is a akin to maintaining a fiberglass tub or shower.

Here is a tile tip,

If you have large tiles in your shower floor, try tapping the tile with a small solid object. If it sounds hollow, it probably is. If you smell something bad coming from your shower, the space between the tile and the pan is probably holding water.

Ripping out and rebuilding the shower is the answer. It is difficult to remove cultured Marble walls and replace them without damage. It is almost impossible to match an old wall if it gets broken. The same is true for the floor.

Are there advantages of Cultured Marble Showers?, "I reckon, but for now, it seems all we do is replace them with tile making them bigger, roomier, and more functional with niches, multiple shower heads, set and forget water temperature controllers, better lighting, frameless glass, mosaics, Solar Tubes, and stone floors.

Tile Installation Observers

2012-05-06T21:23:00.001-07:00

Frequently, I am followed around the project site with observers of various sizes and personalities. Some bark, some meow, some growl and some even bite.

Regardless of their personality, many are a force to be reckoned with. But, for the most part they are well mannered as are most of their owners or masters.

I am often mortified when a homeowner says before leaving me alone and in charge of the residence as I work, "please don't let the this or that out!" (this photo from ilovepugs.tumblr.com)

Well, it's happened more than once. When installing tile, we are constantly moving through the home preferably through the closest avenue to the outside where we can set up a wet saw station to cut, craft, mill, and and fit tile. Then, try keep a sharp eye on a crafty cat, bulldozer canine, or multiples of both.

On a job last year I was walking through the front screen door to make some cuts. Just as the door was closed their very large Golden Retriever blew through so fast he almost took me out too. This dog was around the corner and down the street and clean out of sight before I made it to the wet saw just a few feet away.

I immediately got the homeowner and we both started the search. After about 30 minutes the dog rounded the corner as if nothing was amiss and straight to the front door. It seemed he'd done this before but I felt responsible and I really don't think I should. I felt the precocial pooch should always remain in control of the homeowner and not a tradesman who has good reason to enter and exit unhindered.

Regardless, pets are part of a family and I understand that. It is really appreciated when homeowners extend care to be sure observers, friend or foe, are absent or on their best behavior. Which they seem to forget when it comes to their children sometimes.

We were tasked to tear out and install 12x12 ceramic in an upstairs bath. The tile saw was set up out front of the home. This job quickly became a family affair. The husband, wife, 3 kids and the dog were standing in the hallway anxiously watching the work unfold. The tear out went quickly, Hardie Backer went down fast, then we began installing tile. I had run downstairs to place some cuts. Their little boy all of about 6 years old watched intently as I tried to open the front door. The locked front door he had locked.

I used my cell phone, called my associate and informed him of my plight. A booming sound did not unlock the door but another child did. Then, back downstairs to make another tile cut. Again a locked door with a with the same 6 year old staring at me to see my next reaction. I wanted to pull the door off the hinges but we made it through. In this example, the dog was the most accommodating for us.

Kansas Golden Retrievers Photo

"Tales Of The Incredible Vanishing Soap Dish"

2012-04-26T20:08:00.001-07:00

Pictured here is a photo of a soap dish that is fast becoming scarce. This photo is from http://www.johnbridge.com. I generally shoot all my own shots but it matters not regarding this story. What you see here is a "soap dish". That porcelain protrusion that looks and feels like the perfect hand hold, is a "wash rag holder". Lately, these units are getting harder and harder to find as they are considered "vintage" and by greasy ambulance chasers downright dangerous. In reality however, you need to be careful with these.

Recently, I was tasked to tile a bath floor and fix some loose tile in a customer master shower. This resulted in a complete rebuild of her shower and walls. Sitting stately as it had for about 40 years this soap dish in her shower met my hammer and it was gone. I didn't think twice about it until I was preparing to install the new soap dish "sans wash rag holder". The customer asked if I could replace her old one with an exact match and I dutifully said "yes ma'am" headed to Home Depot. No soap dish with wash rag holder there so on to Lowes. Nothing. Just the same flat bland new and improved soap dish with no hand hold, I mean wash rag holder.

The home owner was a brisk single widow in her 80's and confessed she used that soap dish to "steady herself" in the shower. I had to give her the bad news that I could not quickly locate her requested soap dish and I started the honest conversation about a grab bar or some appliance that was actually designed as a hand hold. I also informed her I would install it at no charge since I destroyed her old one. She said no thanks.

You see, folks are getting older in general and are using these as grab bars which are not to be confused with a wash rag holder. These are not to be used to pull yourself up out of the tub. Not to be used to lower yourself into a tub. After many years of service these things are weakened by water invasion behind these appliances and fail which can be very painful and possibly dangerous.

In order to understand why these should not be used as a hand hold you should know how they are installed. Generally they are the last ceramic item placed in a tile shower project. You remove or leave out 1 and 1/2 tiles laterally. You use a float or margin trowel and slather on a big dollop of grout onto the backside of the soap dish like you are laying a brick. You make sure grout goes into the holes in the back of the soap dish then you shove it into the slot provided.

So the soap dish is generally held in place with grout as the adhesive. Why grout for an adhesive? Because, many showers are tiled with Mastic and not Thinset. Thinset or Mastic would be very difficult to clean off with the amount of material used to adhere it in place. Further, if it were an actual hand hold I would have placed 2x4 or 2x6 backing behind the Hardie Backer to drive 3 inch fasteners into.

As I was preparing to leave the job the Mrs. stopped me and asked if I would install a white PVC Hand Hold she'd found at Home Depot. I did. Another reason these venerable old soap dishes are vanishing is because of what you see in this photo (click to enlarge).

Niches. Yep. Been installing a lot of them. I installed this shower last year and used a couple pieces of Silestone for the shelves that matched the checkerboard mosaic placed around the shower that also enhanced the oil rubbed bronze fixtures.

You can expect to pay anywhere from $75 to $175 for a niche. We are also installing a lot of corner shelving for soap and such. Corner shelves are a typically a piece of Natural Stone or even 12x12 tile sliced on a 45 and installed at one or a couple levels in a corner. Expect to pay at least $35 and up for a shelf install.

Niches cost more because the installation starts before the Hardie Backer or whatever tile backing is used under the tile. The niche needs to be framed in and cannot be placed just anywhere because of plumbing lines, vents, electrical lines, boxes, switches, vents, and yea I said vents twice because they are a real pain in the ass.

Bottom line, we will be seeing fewer and fewer of these ceramic soap dishes with a wash rag holder as remodels take them out and new appliances and techniques make them obsolete. I will however, from now on ask the customer if they want to keep the old soap dish with the wash rag holder. I can't guarantee I can get it out without breaking it but they need to know they are on the endangered list.