Sublime Garden

The Birch Tree

2011-10-19T12:57:00.000+01:00

The Birch is, perhaps, my favourite tree of all - today, at least - and contributes enormously to the woodland landscapes of Britain. It is very common throughout Europe and Asia, and tends to flourish on open ground, being one of the first trees to colonise newly cleared land; for this reason - as a pioneer species - it is often removed from preserved heathlands, in order to prevent re-forestation.

I enjoy them simply because of the way they look: the gorgeous silver bark, the drooping, rustling foliage and the wonderful, unique catkins. My mood is instantly uplifted at the sight of a stand of silver birch, and the addition of a line of trees in an urban or suburban setting can transform the bland into the beautiful. Reaching a height of around 30 metres, eventually, they can also be quite imposing, and will stand out in a way that ash or English lime simply cannot match.

In spring, look out for the first appearance of the new leaves, as they will be a very bright green in colour; after a week or two they will dull down noticeably. The flowers will now be apparent, and each tree will have both the male catkins and female upright types at the same time. Both pollination and eventual seed dispersion are by wind in the latter part of smmmer and into the autumn; the precise timing of the aforementioned events will depend very much upon latitude and elevation.

These fabulous trees play a part in the lives of more than 330 species of insect, support a number of fungi while alive and as rotting timber, and feed many birds in the autumn through their copious output of tiny seeds, so please look after them!

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Gardener's Fellowship

2011-09-09T16:07:00.000+01:00

I have decided to start a discussion forum, Gardener's Fellowship, in order to allow like-minded gardening types to get together, swap advice and lean on the virtual fence to have a chat. We will be including a section on ponds and water gardening, and one on hydroponics, grow lights and watering / micro irrigation.
Membership is free, of course, and all are welcome, whether you have just one question that needs answering, or whether you are a dedicated gardening adviser or landscaper, ready to dispense wisdom to the many! There will be an opportunity to swap seeds, or indeed anything else garden-related, and you are encouraged to begin your own threads and conversations.
Please come down to Gardener's Fellowship - just click the link, register and off you go!

Kithurst Hill, Sussex, early morning...

Ash Tree

Water Gardening

2011-03-11T16:59:00.002+00:00

There are many new trends surfacing in gardening, and water gardening is one of the main new interests. Water gardening can be in the form of waterfalls, ponds, fountains, all of which can be enhanced by rock work combinations and lighting, plants, and fish. Water gardening doesn't have to be a pond or natural water source either, it can consist of just a plastic tub, basically anything that can hold water.

The most important thing to consider in water gardening is probably the spot chosen. Since plants and fish both need plenty of sunlight, places in direct light away from trees and bushes is the best place. This will also help prevent leaves and debris from collecting in the water.

When planning for a water garden first decide the size you want. This will depend on how much money you are willing to spend because water gardening can get expensive if you opt for a large garden full of plants, rocks, fish, and lights. Also consider the size of our property, and the amount of time you want to spend with maintaining your water garden.

When you choose what type of aquatic plants you wish to have, remember that the plants should only cover about half of the water. Plants can be free floating, submerged, or marginal. Which you choose is all a matter of personal preference. Some plants are good for their scent, some provide more oxygen than others and will keep the pool health, and some are just beautiful. Fish are not only nice to look at but they are also very beneficial. Fish help keep debris at a minimum and help in controlling larva and other insects.

One of the main difficulties in water gardening is keeping water clear of algae. Algae problems are usually caused from too many nutrients in the water from feeding fish too often or from over fertilizing plants. If ponds are made correctly and are maintained properly algae problems and control will be kept at a minimum.

All garden pools regardless of size will need maintenance throughout the year. With proper planning you can ensure a healthy balance between living and decorative features of a water garden that can almost care for itself with simple maintenance inputs from you.
You can get rid of algae by reducing on the nutrients that cause the algae by cutting back on feeding and fertilizing, planting more plants, installing a filter system, or replacing existing water with fresh water. There are some chemicals that can be used, like copper compounds, but overuse can kill plant life and fish.

Water gardening doesn't take anymore time than regular gardening, but obviously isn't near the same thing. You may be the type person who couldn't grow a flower if you tried but would be excellent at water gardening. If you are looking for a way to occupy some time or to beautify your yard, water gardening is an excellent way.

Article by Matt.

Read more: http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Water-Gardening/71#ixzz1GJ8P6fKo
Under Creative Commons License: Attribution No Derivatives

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Hydroponic Gardening

2011-03-10T15:12:00.002+00:00

Hydroponic gardening, (from the Greek words hydro, water and ponos, labor) is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions, in water, without soil. Terrestrial plants may be grown with their roots in the mineral nutrient solution only or in an inert medium, such as perlite, gravel, mineral wool, or coconut husk.

In the 19th century, researchers discovered that plants absorb essential mineral nutrients as inorganic ions in water. In natural conditions, soil acts as a mineral nutrient reservoir but the soil itself is not essential to plant growth. When the mineral nutrients in the soil dissolve in water, plant roots are able to absorb them. When the required mineral nutrients are introduced into a plant's water supply artificially, soil is no longer required for the plant to thrive. Almost any terrestrial plant will grow with hydroponics. Hydroponic gardening is also a standard technique in biology research and teaching.

Hydroponic gardening is often defined as "the cultivation of plants in water." Research has since determined that many different aggregates or media will support plant growth; therefore, the definition of hydroponic gardening has been broadened to read "the cultivation of plants without soil." Growers all over the world are using hydroponic gardening techniques due to the lack of a large water supply or fertile farmland. Home gardeners have used hydroponic gardening on a smaller scale to grow fresh vegetables year round and to grow plants in smaller spaces, such as an apartment or balcony.

Greenhouses and nurseries grow their plants in a soilless, peat or bark-based growing mix. The nutrients are then applied to the growing mix through the water supply. Therefore, this is also a type of hydroponic gardening. Soilless gardening offers many advantages to the home gardener. Since a sterile medium is used for hydroponic gardening, there are no weeds to remove, and soil-borne pests and diseases are minimized, if not eliminated completely.

Properly grown hydroponic plants also are healthier and more vigorous because all of the necessary growth elements are readily available. The plants can mature faster, yielding an earlier harvest of vegetable and flower crops. Hydroponic gardening uses less space since the roots do not have to spread out in search of food and water. This small space requirement makes hydroponic gardening ideal for home gardeners, and it makes better use of greenhouse space.

The big advantage to hydroponic gardening is the ability to automate the entire system with a timer. Automation reduces the actual time it takes to maintain plant growth requirements. Automation also provides flexibility to the gardener as one can be gone for long periods of time without having to worry about watering the plants.

Hydroponic gardening offers many advantages for commercial agriculture. Cultivating plants without soil eliminates the need for vast farmland and allows crops to be produced in greenhouses or even in the desert sands. Hydroponic gardening techniques also allow for precise water and nutrient application directly to the roots of each plant. Water is reused in these systems and less is lost through evaporation and run-off. Therefore, arid lands, such as deserts, can be transformed into productive lands using limited amounts of water.

Growing plants with hydroponic gardening is not difficult if one understands the basic principles. As long as plant growth requirements are met, there are numerous hydroponic systems that can be used.

Read more: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/hydroponic-gardeningindoor-gardeninghydroponics-3187715.html#ixzz1GCx84AyG
Under Creative Commons License: Attribution

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5 Spring Time Propagation Essentials

2011-03-09T11:52:00.000+00:00

At the start of the season, which can be as early as January and February, keen gardeners are already looking to start sowing seeds indoors or in their greenhouses ready for them to be moved outdoors for hardening off later on in the year.

To start this process there are a number of essential tools that will be required such as:

Heated Propagator – This is an ideal piece of gardening equipment in which to start your newly planted seeds. The heated propagator consists of a tray and cover with vents; the tray heats the soil from below, and the cover helps to retain the warmth. This provides the perfect growing environment for your seeds before you look to move them outdoors. The small heated propagator is 8w and the large heated propagator is 18w; they are cheap to run at approximately 1/3 of the cost of a 60w light bulb. This should give you a head start to the growing season and also give you peace of mind that your seeds will not be damaged by frost or pests.
Planting Pots – This type of pot is ideal when your seedlings have begun to grow; they are 9cm and have their own watering trays and capillary matting. Planting pots are perfect for growing on seedlings prior to outdoor planting, and although your seedlings should still be kept in the greenhouse or indoors during the night, they may be moved outside during the day. This is to ensure that they harden off ready for planting, which would usually be between April and June depending upon the plants you are growing.
Potting Bench – This is a priceless piece of equipment if you have a number of seedlings to pot as it can take the strain off your back and make potting a much more enjoyable experience. Made from treated timber to reduce decomposition, it is easy to move and can be brought inside in the winter months. The top shelf is used for potting and the bottom shelf is used for storage, a must for any keen gardener.
Collapsible Water Butt – Ideal during hose pipe bans, these butts collect rain water which can then be used for garden watering. With a 100ltr capacity and a standard hozelock connection, you can attach your hosepipe or simply fill a watering can. No tools are required to assemble the water butt, and it is comes in an attractive green which will compliment your garden.
Adapta Tunnels – These growing tunnels provide protection to your young plants when they are first moved and planted out in the garden; the first Adapta Tunnel that you purchase comes with separate hoops and polythene tunnel which will protect your young plants from any morning frosts and cold weather spells. As the year moves on you could choose to purchase different covers such as the fleece cover which is perfect for spring time and helps to keep the heat in the tunnel, or the shading net cover which will protect your plants from the harsh summer sun. The shading net is also ideal for protection from insects and greenfly, ensuring the production healthy, protected plants.

This is just a small selection of useful gardening equipment which aims to help you to easily grow the plants that you want for your garden. There is bound to be something in this list that catches your attention and inspires you to get started with this year’s planting, and hopefully makes your growing season much more successful than in previous years.

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Border Patrol

2011-02-02T15:26:00.001+00:00

Not my garden, but it felt just about this daunting last year!

Last year I began to de-jungle the garden at my new house. I'm afraid that vanity dictated that the front - publicly visible - garden should be the one favoured with the most time and effort, and that the back would have to get by with a good tidy up. What with a new baby, and a certain feeling of being overwhelmed by the mammoth task at hand, I managed only one long straight, dull border, a giant landscaping/rock clearing job to level out an area for a shed and vegetable patch, and some serious lawn renovation.

Too formal for me these days....

This year I will be buckling down, probably, and completing the border war. Straight lines and regimented planting is out, wavy lines and cottage garden planting will be in, although the willpower required in the planning stage may exhaust me all by itself. The problem I have is whether to plan and mark out the borders prior to digging - the obvious choice - or to whether to go with the flow and allow each area to evolve.

Convention suggests that the former course of action should be taken, but I have in the past used the latter to great effect. That is, I have allowed certain zones within a garden to grow and take on their own shape over a period of time, altering things on impulse and changing my mind often. In this fashion I have avoided regimentation and tradition, and finished up with something that tends to suit it's position and area.

... but this is just the kind of thing I'm looking for.

For example, some years ago I ended up laying and re-laying a brick path through a pebbled area; I started off with a very unnatural straight line, and after much effort obtained a wavy, organic path which followed a natural route from a to b. This process was accidental, resulting from a dissatisfaction with the first attempt. If anybody has an opinion on this style of 'design' please leave your comments below.

Anyway, I will make a tentative start this weekend, I think, and perhaps add a post when I've made a bit of a dent in the job! Don't forget, suggestions on design, planting and gardening in general are most welcome.

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Fragrant Friends

2010-12-04T15:18:00.003+00:00

During these months of winter snow and gloom, I find my thoughts turning to next years planting. Although the visual component comes first and foremost when considering which greenery a particular border, bed or pot should contain, it is also important to ensure also that scent is taken into account. I have, therefore, compiled a top ten list of plants of all sizes blessed with fragrant flowers:

Buddleia - preferably B. davidii; either 'Empire Blue', blue flowers with an orange eye, or 'Fortune', pure lilac, again with an orange eye. Loved by butterflies.
Heliotropium - a bushy half-hardy annual.
Freesia - a very sweetly scented bulbous plant, native to South Africa.
Gardenia - a tender semi-evergreen flowering shrub.
Robinia - pref. R. bispida, a hardy flowering tree or wall grown shrub,
Magnolia - another wonderful deciduous species which includes both shrubs and small trees.
Lavandula (lavender) - an unforgettable must-have for this list, especially attractive to bees.
Iris - a genus of well over 300 plants, small, spreading and easily grown.
Lilium (lily) - a personal favourite with innumerable variety. Very robust.
Hyacinthus (hyacinth) - delicate, miniature blooms clustered together on a spike.

I hope you like my top ten, but I'm sure you have your own personal preferences. If you would like me to add something to this list, please make a suggestion using the comments box.

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The Ash Tree

2010-11-26T17:17:00.002+00:00

We have a wonderful ash in our garden, about forty to fifty feet tall, and very broad for the height, although it may reach as high as one hundred feet. This tree is common throughout the UK, a true native, but is no less special for it's frequency. It has very open foliage, due to it's branched leaves (leaflets), and therefore plenty of light is allowed to penetrate the crown, making it rather good for the larger garden and a little too large for mine! These leaves are sometimes a foot or more in length, but the leaflets prevent them from appearing heavy or ponderous.

The bark is grey in colour, both on the trunk and branches, and on younger trees is quite smooth. As the ash matures, however, this bark splits into fissures and furrows, and is often found covered with shaggy lichens. The flowers are barely noticeable, and are often bypassed even by insects - the tree relies on the wind to disprese it's pollen. These flowers have no petals or sepals and are also rather irregular, some showing stamens but no pistils - a flower without a pistil cannot produce seed.

The fruits (or 'keys') containing the seed ripen in autumn and hang upon the tree in bunches often throughout the winter. Each key has a propeller shaped 'wing', allowing it to travel long distances upon the wind.
The ash is of the same family as southern Europe's olive tree, and is related also to the common privet. It's wood is tough and elastic, and is used for tool handles and hockey sticks, and in past times in the construction of tennis raquets.

Many of us, I think, are guilty of passing by, and indeed under, our wonderful trees without noticing their great size and beauty. I will endeavour to remedy somewhat this personal fault, and perhaps bring to this blog a few more posts about this countries woody crowning glories. If you have any suggestions, please comment and let me know - I will be more than happy to open my eyes, do a little research and write a small piece....

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Winter Work

2010-11-24T12:16:00.004+00:00

Winter is surely with us, as evidenced by my repeatedly frozen garden in the mornings, but there is still plenty to do in the garden. Here's a top ten list of jobs for the next month:

Tidy all your hardy perennials, ready for next years growth.
Sow early peas and broad beans.
Clear untidy borders and put some mulch down.
Service the lawnmower and clean up summer tools.

Put shrubs in pots in the greenhouse or growhouse.
Check fences and sheds for damage, ready for those windy days!
Check hose pipes and micro irrigation / auto watering systems for wear, then pack away.
Prune established trees, and plant new ones.
Take rose cuttings, and set in trenches.
Plant rhubarb crowns, but manure the ground properly first (horse is my favourite).

I normally uncover about another 50 jobs, but I'm happy if the 10 most important get done by Christmas!

Love this quote:

"Nature has undoubtedly mastered the art of winter gardening and even the most experienced gardener
can learn from the unrestrained beauty around them."

- Vincent A. Simeone

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Shed Mad Weekend

2010-11-23T13:03:00.005+00:00

This weekend I built a small shed, purchased from B and Q in the UK. It's only a basic model, and will be used for storing my tools and mower, and also for blocking off a small corner of the garden at the side of the house. This portion is a little dark and contains the gate to the front of my house, the (hot and cold!) outside taps, hose pipes and micro irrigation hose connections, plus various garden odds and ends like stored timber and so on.

The construction process was pretty straightforward, really, the only difficulty being adding the roof felt. The felt with which it came was a little on the cheap side, and I found that it tended to tear rather easily and made the job that bit trickier. With liberal use of felting tacks, though, I sorted it out and tidied it up fairly well.

I found also that it was useful to have a helper or two when screwing the sides together, just to hold things in place and enabling me to make sure that everything was square and solid. The most time consuming part of the entire thing was preparing the base and ground. I had to level out a very rocky area in dribs and drabs between rainy days, and then proceeded to lay out paving slabs for the shed base to sit on. It's common to use a full concrete base, especially for larger buildings, but I wanted to retain the flexibilty that comes with a removable or mobile footing - if I decide I want to move the whole thing to the left a bit, then I'll simply empty the shed, drag it onto the patio, relay the slabs, and move the shed back.

The next task on the list, probably for this coming weekend, will be to fit some shelves and hooks, and perhaps brace a couple of weaker spots. Then I'll fill it up beyond normal capacity so that nothing can ever be easily found or extracted, as is customary. Come spring it will need painting, then I will probably add a small lean-to structure on one side and re-felt the roof.

Care for your shed - it's not just for Christmas, you know.

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Sweet, Sweet Strawberries

2010-11-10T20:18:00.006+00:00

This afternoon I checked on my Autumn-potted strawberry runners, and found myself much pleased both with the numbers gained from my original 13 plants - 36 - and with their quality. It set my mind to casting back to the height of summer, not the heavy heat of August, but the lighter, brighter times of June and July. Anticipation and reward are the words that come first to hand; the strawberry crop is in full flood, with bowls for the neighbours and fist-fulls for the family.

Once the very last, succulent fruit has been regretfully removed thoughts turn once more to propagation, and even more of the wonderful plants for next year. This delicious fruit occupies a fairly unusual, and possibly unique, position, in that it can be fruited within a year of the formation of the plant. Almost instant gratification, at least in gardening terms.

This last season's plants were grown exclusively in a cylindrical jute planter - compact and neat, and with the added advantage of keeping the fruits off the ground. Usually, straw would be spread around the base of each plant and between rows to protect the flowers from late frosts and, later, to prevent the fruit from being soiled in wet weather. Use of the planter made everything rather easier, and required perhaps only a little more water than conventionally sited plants. Only when I came along in late summer with my little pots and pegs, to set the runners, did I realise that vertically sited plants may cause me some small trouble - how to 'float' the runner pots. This was eventually overcome using slightly more resilient and firm pegging, and I simply allowed the new miniature plants to be suspended from their parents. Thirty six successes from thirty six attempts proved the method, I believe.

The next job, over winter, will be the (fairly) careful preparation of new ground , and associated manuring. I am fortunate enough to have access to an almost limitless supply of entirely free stable manure, well rotted and easily retrieved. This subject is something I have been looking into, and I intend to cover it in more depth in a future post. Suffice it to say, the horse holds more attraction for the gardener and allotment holder than any other farm animal.

Next year will, of course, require me to return to ground based planting and standard methods to enable me to accommodate my expanded stock. The main advantage of this, apart from the rather pleasing ground cover (not to everyone's taste, but to me rustic and lovely), is the potential for an even larger crop of sweet and juicy fruits, to be freely given to all who visit.

Please bring your own cream.

There is something infinitely healing in the

repeated refrains of nature - the assurance that dawn comes after night,

and spring after the winter.

- Rachel Carson
The Sense of Wonder

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Sunflower Adoration

2010-11-08T15:45:00.020+00:00

I have, yet again, succumbed to my annual temptation to plant a few sunflowers. The joy of sunflower cultivation is not, perhaps, considered to be the highest form of horticulture except in the sense of altitude - much enthusiasm is expended upon gaining the greatest of heights, with little left over for the plant's other, undoubted, qualities. In this respect cultivation of this superb flower is, for many, most akin to the cultivation of giant vegetables. Indeed, I have in the past found myself to be solely concerned with achieving the tallest of plants (about 8.5', measured but inaccurately).

These days I have tended simply to grow them for the sheer pleasure of it, with an eye instead for the warmth and light they bring to the garden. The fabulous, and much ignored, foliage is also a delight, particularly for small children who always seem to be just as fascinated by the dimensions of a single leaf as they are by the loftiness of the entire plant. additionally, my neighbours are treated to a daily dose of sunshine as the sunflowers peek over our dividing fence.

For those who are considering a crop for next year, why not try planting in groups or a double staggered line, rather than the usual fence- or wall-bound single strip. Some of the very best sunflowers are not tall, notably Helianthus Cucumerifolious which forms wonderful bushes of around 3' in height. There is, too, a dwarf form of the common sunflower - nanus plenus. Plant together for compact variety. Although mostly thought of as annuals, there are also many perennial varieties, for example Multiflorus Maxumus, and so many varieties of both as to be almost overwhelming. Take a look at Growing Sunflowers for a list of the most popular.

Sunflowers do not require special conditions to start them off, just sow outdoors straight into the ground; and if, like me, you are not too bothered about growing the rarest, or reddest, or tallest etc, then just plump for something that will fit the eventual planting site, and sit back and enjoy. A stout cane and a modest amount of water will tend to ensure a visual treat, and the flowers will continue to please long after much of the rest of the contents of your garden are due for the compost heap. When the flower heads have finally had it, don't be in too much of a hurry to chop them down. Leave them a little longer, and you will be able to harvest a small mountain of entirely free seeds, ready for next year.

I have estimated a gathering of between 500 and a thousand seeds from eight good-sized heads this year, and so have given many hundreds away to friends and colleagues alike with plenty left over for my modest spring requirements. A good number will be held in reserve also for a little guerrilla gardening; more of that later, but for now, let the critical scales fall from your eyes and consider setting aside a small spot for the humble, yet mighty sunflower.

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Micro Irrigation

2010-11-06T12:03:00.013+00:00

Micro Irrigation Systems

During the summer, having grown fed up of watering cans and hose pipes, I constructed an automatic micro-irrigation system, from water timer to mini sprinklers. It's a fantastic bit of kit - good fun to sort out, fascinating to see in action, flexible, useful and water efficient.

Hozelock End-Line Adjustable Mini Sprinkler

If you've ever felt a bit fed up with lugging the aforementioned watering can about the garden, soaked yourself yet again while struggling with the hose pipe, or are simply concerned with being a bit more water efficient, try micro irrigation. It's still early days for me, but watering 12 containers, a mini grow house and 20 metres of border is done at the the turn of a tap, and completed in about 5 minutes while I get on with something else altogether! In fact, I don't even have to turn the tap on at all, if I don't feel like it or am on holiday: I have a timer attached directly to my outside tap which can be set to water the garden one or more times a day, for a variable period, at whatever time of day I see fit.

rotating mini sprinkler

I have about 30 miniature sprinklers and sprayers attached to 15 metres of 12mm bore supply hose via a total of 10 metres of 4mm bore micro tubing. The supply hose is itself attach to some standard garden hose to extend it and take it to the proper part of the garden. Between these two hoses is a pressure regulator - the components in this sort of setup fit together using a push-fit system. Normal tap pressure (anything over about 1.5 bar) may cause the various parts to fly off, thoroughly soaking a few small areas at the front end and leaving the rest to turn to desert!

I'm going to expand the system as I dig out new borders in my (new to me, moved in in the winter) garden ready for next summer, meaning that the only bit of watering that I have to get involved in by next year should be shifting the lawn sprinkler about. I would highly recommend this for all gardeners with access to an outside tap, especially those with containers or a greenhouse, or for people blessed with larger gardens and long borders.

I'll try keep you all updated with new posts on the progress and expansion of the system, and maybe add a few photos of my setup. In the meantime, check out the Hozelock system (the one I'm using) on Hozelock's website, or at Swell UK ltd, online.

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