Best Puppy, training dog

Sassy’s pups very 1st feeding (puppy food)

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 00:43:00 -0700

Too Much Puppy Food?

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 00:36:00 -0700

Can I feed my puppy to much?

There is a false idea with large-breed puppies that since they have larger bones, they need more calcium and more calories to continue developing at the rapid growth rate puppies experience. This is not true. Many large-breed puppies that experience too rapid of growth in their first six months experience developmental bone problems. The best plan of attack to prevent these issues in your large breed puppy is to control the rate of growth by controlling their intake of calories, calcium, and phosphorous.

If you are overfeeding your puppy, their high weight makes them at even higher risk for bone problems. You should be able to feel the dog’s ribs, but not see them. If you can not feel your puppy’s ribs, this is an indicator that you are over-feeding or should switch to a lower calorie diet. Many puppy foods are rich in calories; which is why many kennels switch to adult dog food at around 12 weeks to safely promote growth. If you feel your puppy is ready to make the switch, make sure you are feeding an adult dog food appropriate for all life stages. Follow these guidelines and your puppy will experience normal skeletal development.

puppy

Stopping a Jumping Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:25:00 -0700

Unless given a command to jump, a dog should never be allowed to jump on humans. A dog who jumps on a human at his own free will is a dog who does not respect the person he is jumping on. Even those cute little toy dogs should not be allowed to jump on people. While you, the owner, may think it is cute, it is not cute to everyone else. Not only is it annoying to most people to have someone else's dog jump on them, it can also be dangerous. A jumping dog can knock people over and muddy their clothes, put runners in nylons and scratch.

When a dog jumps on a human at their own free will they are not "greeting" the human, they are asserting their dominance on them. It is the dog communicating that he is alpha and or wishes to own or control the human. A subordinate would never dream of running over and jumping on the alpha dog of the pack. Space is respect and lower remembers of the pack respect the higher members. If your dog jumps on humans he does not respect them.

I remember going to a dog park where a little 4 month old Boxer puppy ran around and jumped up on everyone. The dog was not heavy enough to knock most of the adults down, however, he left everyone with muddy pants and was big enough to knock over small children. The owner did nothing to stop the jumping puppy. After all, it was just a small pup. Everyone around her was pretty annoyed at the muddy prints the dog was leaving all over their clothes. That is an owner who will have a problem with their dog jumping on people when he gets older.

Puppies should be told from day one, "no jumping". Anything you do not wish your cute little puppy to do when he is full grown should not be allowed when he is a puppy. Think about the behaviors you allow your puppy to do; is it something you will always allow him to do even when he is full grown? If the answer is no, do not allow your puppy to do it from day one.

Dogs like and need consistency, so if you are not allowing your dog to jump on you, everyone in the family and everyone who greets the dog must do the same. You, as an owner, must make sure this happens. It will only confuse a dog if you allow him to jump on some people who say they do not mind, and tell him not to jump on others. Once you decide you do not wish your dog to jump on people you must apply this to everyone at all times unless you give the dog a command to jump. A dog should never jump on a human at his own free will.

Stopping the Jumps

To a dog, space and balance is very important. If you take a step backwards or lean out of a jumping dogs way, the dog will continue to jump. To a dog, space means a lot and the dog will be gaining space. When a dog jumps, step into "your space". Picture a sphere around you. A sphere of your space and you are not going to allow anyone or anything to come into your space. When the dog jumps, step into it sideways with your body, shoulder towards the dog. Don't face the dog head on. You are not trying to knock the dog down, you are simply calmly filling up your space with your body, and in return, setting the dog off balance, which is an uncomfortable feeling for a dog. Lean slightly forward, not backward. Never lean backwards, as you will be giving the dog that space. Casually and calmly, keep filling your space, not allowing room for the dog to come in. Remember, your goal is not to knock the dog down or walk into the dog, it's just to fill your space. You may end up bumping into the dog in doing so, however, do not make that your goal, keep the goal on protecting your space.

You can do this with any dog who jumps on you, take a sideways step forward just as the dog starts to jump, filling the space the dog was about to take up. This will throw off the dogs balance and at the same time, claim your space. You will earn respect from the dog and soon, the dog will learn it is no fun to jump on you.

© Dog Breed Info Center® All Rights Reserved

Recognizing Dominate Behaviors in Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 8 Jun 2009 10:23:00 -0700

List of dominate behaviors which can occur in dogs (This list is not yet complete)

Besides the obvious guarding, growling and biting many dogs display a variety of dominant behaviors that commonly go unrecognized by their humans. Dogs very rarely display the highest level of dominance overnight. There are usually signs leading up to it over the years and dominate alpha dogs do not always growl and bite. If the owners are giving the dog what they want there sometimes is no reason for the dog to growl or bite unless they are challenged. Dogs understand that they exist in a human world. After all, who gives them food and opens the door for them to go potty? When humans perform these tasks on demand from the dog though, why wouldn't the dog think they're the leader? It is easy for dogs to get the impression they are alpha in their pack. Since many canine alpha behaviors are not acceptable in human society, for example biting being one of the alpha communication tactics it is important for humans to remain the leaders over their dogs.

Below are some common behaviors dogs display when they believe they are above humans. Keep in mind that a dog does not have to display all of these behaviors to be in a dominant frame of mind. Sometimes an alpha dog will only display a few of the behaviors and at random times, depending on what the dog decides they feel like doing at any given moment. Smarter dogs tend to challenge the pack order more then dogs of average or below average intelligence.

Stubbornness

Headstrong and willful

Demanding

Pushiness

Begging

Pushing a toy into you in order to get you to play with them.

Nudging to be pet.

Sitting in high places looking down on everything.

Barking or whining at humans which many owners consider "talking" (without a command to do so).

Jumping or putting their paws on humans (without a command to do so).

Persistence about going in and out doorways before humans.

Persistence about walking in front of humans while on a lead.

Not listening to known commands.

Dislikes people touching their food.

Standing proud on a human lap.

Persistence about being on top, be it a lap or stepping on your foot.

Persistence about where they sleep, i.e. on your pillow.

Annoyance if disturbed while sleeping.

Likes to sleep on top of their humans.

Licking (giving kisses) in a determined and focused manner.

Caring themselves with a proud gait, head held high.

Not liking to be left alone and getting overly excited upon the humans return. (See Separation Anxiety in Dogs)

To learn more about dog psychology and what makes a dog tick, we strongly suggest Cesar Millan DVD's and or Cesar Millan Books to every dog owner, from Chihuahua to Pit Bull. An excellent guide to communicating with, understanding, and controlling your dog.

Small Dogs vs. Medium and Large Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 8 Jun 2009 08:01:00 -0700

(Small Dog Syndrome - Dog believes he is the pack leader to humans)

Are you one of those people who prefer larger dogs? Do you know someone who has told you that they prefer larger dogs because small dogs are yappy and snappy? Whether we are a large dog person or a small dog person, one thing we all would agree on, is the larger percentage of small dogs tend to have a different type of temperament than medium and large dogs. Small dogs have earned the reputation of being yappy, snappy, jealous, protective, wary of strangers and not the greatest child companion and, unfortunately, it has become widely accepted. Similar to the myth that Pit Bulls are all vicious fighting dogs whose jaws lock and they will not let go until their prey is dead. That's just the way some small dogs are. Right?

I received a package and my two Boxers went over to greet the UPS driver. I called the dogs back and the driver explained he didn't mind saying hello to my dogs. He could tell they were friendly, then added.... "It's those small dogs you have to watch out for."

So why do little dogs tend to act differently than large dogs? They are all the same type of animal, a mammal of the Canidae family, of the order Carnivora: Canis lupus familiaris, which is a domesticated subspecies of the wolf. Commonly referred to as a canine. This type of animal has instincts that need to be fulfilled in order for the animal to be happy and balanced. Let's take a closer look at how we treat large and medium dogs, as opposed to how we treat small and toy dogs.

Many behaviors we humans do not allow large dogs to get away with we find cute in small dogs. For example:

Jumping

If an 80-pound German Shepherd jumps up on a human, everyone agrees that this behavior needs to be corrected. Everyone sees this as a problem and the owners would seek help from a trainer, and/or read up on it on the Internet to remedy the behavior. At the very least, the dog would be locked in a separate room when guests arrived to protect the guests from getting hurt.

Now picture a little 8-pound Miniature Pinscher jumping up on a human. You look down and I’ll be darned, it's kind of cute. It does not hurt and people think "The dog likes me!"

But what does it really mean? If dogs were human this would be true ... but they are not. Jumping has a totally different meaning to a dog than it does a human. It's a dominancy and respect issue. For a dog, space is a sign of respect and when you allow your little dog to jump on a human you are allowing them to disrespect a human. You are allowing them to display pack leader behaviors.

Sadie, the 70-pound GSD, with Rudy, a 4-pound Chorkie.

Growling

If a German Shepherd were to growl at your guest, you and your guest both know there is a problem. Something has to be done. However, if that tiny 6-pound Chihuahua growls, well it's just what he does. He's a Chihuahua, right? Wrong... There is no difference, in a dog’s mind, for a German Shepherd to be growling at a human than there is for a Chihuahua. It's just another behavior we humans let those tiny dogs get away with.

Other Dogs

If your little 5-pound Yorkshire Terrier decides to bark and growl at another dog while you are walking down the street, or as another dog passes by your house, it's almost seen as cute, because you see it as your tiny dog thinking they are a big dog. However, if your 120 pound Akita barks and growls at another dog, the dog is more likely to be put in their place and told to stop. The fact is, dogs should never be allowed to display dominant behaviors. Whether it be a huge or tiny dog, their pack leaders (humans) should tell the dogs "NO" and follow through until the dog understands this is not an acceptable behavior. And for the record, dogs do not "think" they are either big or little. They live in the moment and are just what they are, reacting to the moment. To dogs, size means nothing.

Roxanna the Boxer laying down with Miya, the Jack Chi hybrid.

Space

If you were eating dinner or working at your computer and your 70-pound Boxer comes running over and jumps up on your lap, chances are you would knock them back down telling them "No, not now, I am busy". However, if that 5-pound Maltese jumps up on your lap, well it's just cute. He loves you and just wants to be on you. There's that space issue again. Pack leaders decide when and where to do things. The pack leader belongs on top. It is ok for your little lap dog to sit on your lap. However, it has to be at times when YOU invite them.

Claiming the Human

If you are sitting down watching TV on the couch, your little dog can jump up next to you on the couch, so long as your dog understands it is your couch, not theirs. You need to make your dog wait until you invite them to climb into your lap. When a dog makes it a habit of jumping up on a human at their own free will, we humans see it as love and affection. However, to a dog it is a claim. The dog is trying to own you. So the next time you notice your dog is adamant about being on you, remember, he is claiming you not loving you. The human needs to claim their own space back and the dog must be told they can only climb on top when the human invites them.

If you feel your dog is jumping on you in an "I own you" way, it is best not to put nor knock the dog on the floor. Rather, use your fingers to bite her off (poking with enough intensity to make the dog react by moving). You need to communicate with your body language until they move off of the person by themselves. Make them move off; do not physically move the dog. When you see the dog settling down into a calm submissive state, (head down low, not making eye contact, ears back, tail relaxed and not tucked in, not rigidly high), then it is ok to invite them on you, if that is what YOU want. However, if the dog once again gets in an "I own you" stance, they need to be moved off again. Making the dog move, not by you moving the dog. The dog needs to be the one physically moving off.

Jeremy, the Rottweiler.

Francis, the Long Haired Miniature Dachshund.

Aggression

If your 120-pound Rottweiler decided to viciously bark at your housekeeper... you KNOW you have a problem. However, if your tiny little Dachshund does it, you inform the housekeeper to avoid the dog. The little dog may hide under the table barking and growling, is told to be quiet, but the correction is never really followed through on. The houseguest is told to not put their hands under the table. However, if this were a Rottie, the behavior would be addressed. Small dogs are more likely to be allowed to display dominant behaviors that should never be accepted.

Prince, the longhaired Chihuahua.

Lap Dogs

Ever see a small dog jump up on its owners lap and growl at anyone who comes too close? The owner feels the dog is "protecting" them "because they love me". When actually the dog is "Claiming" "THEIR" property. Talk about allowing a dog to be alpha. Now imagine a Doberman Pinscher on that same person's lap, snarling if someone comes to close. Picture in your mind going back and forth, Chihuahua on their owner's lap growling... Doberman Pinscher on their owner's lap growling.

Romeo, the Doberman Pinscher.

Chihuahua, Doberman.... Chihuahua, Doberman... While it may seem less of a big deal for the Chihuahua to display this type of dominate behavior IN A DOG’S MIND there is no difference between a Chihuahua doing this and a Doberman Pinscher or German Shepherd exhibiting this behavior. Yet a large percentage of small dogs are allowed to display this behavior.

Luna, the Pekingese.

Walks

If someone were walking a 7-pound Pekingese and they were pulling on the lead as hard as they could to get near a tree to pee on it, most dog walkers would simply hold the lead and allow the dog to pull way out in front. What's the harm? The dog is not strong enough to knock a person down and you know you have a good grip on the lead, right?

Chanel, the Labrador Retriever.

Whereas if a 70-pound Labrador Retriever were pulling you as hard as they could, there is a good chance they may just drag the human across the pavement. Large dogs are more likely to be told to behave on a lead than little dogs. However, even most large dogs do not walk properly on a lead. Most dogs (large and small) take their owners for a walk (in front of the human) when they should be beside or behind them (pack leader goes first). Large dogs are, at the least, mostly taught not to pull. Whereas not only do small dogs walk out in front, they also pull without being corrected. Dogs who act very excitedly when their humans come home are showing signs of a lack of exercise and/or leadership. For a dog, excitement does not indicate happiness. In most cases, it is a sign of an unbalanced state. When you come home after being gone, avoid speaking to your dog in an excited manner. If we see dogs has human, a dog not being excited and happy does not make sense. However, we must remember dogs are canines, not humans.

How about those sleeping arrangements?

Bella, the 7-pound Malti-pom, "She's very quiet, and refuses to sleep at the end of the bed, she wants her head on the pillow, and her body under the covers right in between us!"

Large and medium size dogs are less likely to be allowed to sleep at the top of the bed next to a person's pillow. There simply is not room for both human and a large dog. If a large dog is allowed on the bed, they will often be told to sleep at the foot of the bed. Small dogs are more likely to be allowed to sleep right on a human's pillow. In the dog world, the pack leader sleeps in the highest (height wise) most comfortable place. And for those very tiny dogs who cannot jump on the bed themselves, they get to bark and TELL THE HUMAN when to put them on the bed and when to take them back off the bed. In a dog's mind only the pack leader tells others what to do. It is not necessarily a bad thing to allow your dog to be on your bed, so long as YOU are deciding when they can get on the bed and when they need to get down. Just keep in mind in the dog world, the pack leader sleeps in the most comfortable spot; so do not allow your dog to push you out of your spot. Your dog needs to lie around YOU, not you around THEM.

The Yappy Trait

While some dogs have more of a tendency to get yappy. The yappy traits have everything to do with the way they are treated by the owner. For instance, if the dog lacks a pack leader and feels THEY are the pack leader they may become yappy every time you leave them alone. Or become yappy as they try to get YOU to follow THEIR commands.

If you fall into the "Small Dog Syndrome" and allow a dog to take over the home, they will tend to be more yappy. Small dogs who see their humans as 100% pack leader and are told to hush when they do bark, get daily walks and are content with themselves are less likely to be little yappers.

The Nervous Trait

When a dog appears scared, nervous, stressed, or otherwise upset in any way, we humans tend to pet them, stroke their coat, and talk to them in a soothing manner. We tell them everything is ok. We do this with both large and small dogs, but we tend to do it even more with the smaller dogs. We pick up the little dog and cuddle them every time they look upset. We humans feel good about giving this type of comfort. It's human nature and our little dogs are our babies.

This type of reassurance works on humans, it's what humans do and we understand this type of comfort. However, when the canine animal is in an unstable state of mind and is given a human consolation (treated like a human) it intensifies the dog's state (stress, fear, nervousness etc.). In the dog world when a dog is in an unstable state and you try to reassure them by giving affection, the dog sees you as being in a weaker state than their own. The canine species can read human energy. They read sympathy as weak energy. With their primal instinct to have order in their pack, it is very disturbing for a dog in a weak state of mind to be surrounded by other weak pack members. At these times there is no pack leader and chaos is present as no one is providing direction. The same is true in ALL human societies. That is why leaders are elected or allowed to be in place. It intensifies the dog's instability, sometimes to the point where the dog, in their already unstable state, tries to be your pack leader. In the dog's mind you are now weaker than they are, which instinctually puts the dog in a higher alpha position than you. Instinct tells a dog that the stronger member is higher in the pack order. This ensures the packs survival. You need to give off a stronger, more stable energy that the dog can feed from.

Many little dogs suffer from instability due to their likelihood of being babied and over protected. When large dogs are upset, since we cannot pick them up, they are less likely to be treated in this manner.

Separation Anxiety

Dogs who believe they are the pack leader often develop separation anxiety. Followers are not allowed to leave the pack leader but pack leaders can leave the followers.

List of dominate behaviors which can occur in dogs (This list is not yet complete)

Stubbornness

Demanding

Pushiness

Begging

Pushing a toy into you in order to get you to play with them.

Nudging to be pet.

Sitting in high places looking down on everything.

Barking or whining at humans which many owners consider "talking" (without a command to do so).

Jumping or putting their paws on humans without a command to do so.

Persistence about going in and out doorways before humans.

Persistence about walking in front of humans while on a lead.

Not listening to known commands.

Dislikes people touching their food.

Standing proud on a human lap.

Persistence about being on top, be it a lap or stepping on your foot.

Persistence about where they sleep (i.e. on your pillow).

Annoyance if disturbed while sleeping.

Likes to sleep on top of their humans.

Licking (giving kisses) in a determined and focused manner.

Carrying themselves with a proud gait, head held high.

Not liking to be left alone and getting overly excited upon the humans return. (See Separation Anxiety in Dogs)

Conclusion

The bottom line is; small dogs are no different than large dogs. What gives them their different temperaments is that humans treat them differently. We over protect them and treat them like babies. Things we do not allow large dogs to do which are common pack leader issues because of the dogs size are addressed. These are issues all dogs need to have addressed, yet the smaller dogs tend to not get this discipline.

If you are unsure how to gain control back from your dog, or if you think you are at risk of being bitten, please hire a professional to help you before you give your dog to a shelter. This commonly sentences them to Death Row. This will (or at least should) cause you to feel remorse and guilt that you will have to deal with (to varying degrees) for the rest of your life.

Speaking Dog. What's your dog saying?

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sat, 6 Jun 2009 06:31:00 -0700

One of the most common mistakes owners can make with their dogs is to misread what the dog is saying into something completely different. We humans do it all of the time. The dog's body language says one thing, and we interpret it into something completely different basing our assumption on what we ourselves are feeling. When in reality dogs see and read the world much different than we humans. If we humans better understood our dogs we could prevent many dog bites and other behavioral issues.

Dogs and Hugs

For example lets take a simple act of a hug. To humans a hug means love and affection. When a human receives a welcomed hug from a loved one it makes us feel good inside.

But just what does a hug mean to a dog? Humans are always hugging their dogs and when we do we are giving the dog affection and sharing our love. However what most humans do not realize is to a dog a hug is not affection at all. To a dog a hug symbolizes a social status ranking representing dominance and an invasion of space. Lower members of the pack give space to the higher members as a show of respect. The position of the body is also meaningful to a dog. The one on top represents a higher status ranking. Therefore when you bend down and wrap your arms around a dog you are not only on top, but you are in their space.

Keeping this logic in mind, it makes total sense to not run up and hug a strange dog. Many children are bit every day by hugging dogs and if you look at it from the dogs perspective who would blame them? A stranger comes running over asserting dominance on a dog they have just met and the dog's reaction is to communicate to this being that they do not wish to be dominated. Unlike horses and deer who are "flight animals", a dog is a "fight animal" and will communicate his displeasure with a growl, and or a snap or bite.

That being said, it is not bad to hug a dog that is familiar with you if the dog is calm and in a submissive state of mind, so long as you are hugging them at a time when you are relaxed and happy. As a matter of fact the emotional sensation it gives the humans to hug can be felt by the dog, and that energy radiating from the humans can be very calming to the dog. Not because he is enjoying the hug, but because he is enjoying the calm he feels coming from you.

I watched a little girl come running over to a dog, giving the dog a huge hug. The little girl was overjoyed. You could tell she just loved dogs. I watched the dog's face. The dog's eyes were wide and he went somewhat stiff, as he turned his head up toward the being who was wrapping his arms around him. I saw him flick his tongue in a nervous way. While this dog did not bite this child it was clear the dog was not enjoying it. Had the child been hugging a more dominate dog the dog just may have snapped at her.

I then watched the child hug a second dog. The second dog was Bruno. Bruno lowered his head and allowed himself to be hugged. He, like the first dog, also flicked his tongue, but in a different way. His tongue came all the way out and back in as he tried to lick the child. His lick was submissive where as the first dog's lick was nervous. Bruno enjoyed the attention. He is just about as submissive as they come and enjoys any attention from any human he can get.

When you allow your children to hug strange dogs you are taking a gamble in the dog's reaction. Not even the owner can always predict what the dog's reaction will be. The proper way to greet a dog is to turn your body sideways, no eye to eye contact and allow the dog to smell you. That is greeting a dog in dog language in a non-confrontational way.

Human Interpretation

Here is another good example of how we humans assume our dogs have the same emotions and feelings as we have and put our own interpretations into a dogs reactions. This is a YouTube clip of Bonnie Hunt and her interpretation of this baby crawling over to the dog. Notice the emotion the clip draws from the human. The talk show host assumes the dog was bonding and acknowledging in a heart felt loving kind of way. The host is so moved by what is in that clip that she looks like she could cry. Overwhelmed with joy about what she believes is an emotional tie between the baby and the dog.

A lot of humans are going to watch this clip and attach their own emotions to what THEY interpreted the dog was feeling at the time the dog touched the baby back with his paw. But what is the dog really communicating? Is he overwhelmed with emotion because the cute little baby crawled over and connected with him? No, not at all. When the baby first crawled over and touched the dog's paw the dog sat up and looked to see what was touching his foot. Saw it was the baby. The dog then seeing it was the baby submitted by laying his head down. When the baby touched the dog's paw this submissive Boxer saw it as a game and was playing with the baby. But there was no heart felt emotional tie in the dog's mind like the announcer read into it. There was no strong feeling of affection felt by the dog when the baby touched his paw. The dog did not touch the baby back to show his reciprocated love. It was just a gentle game. The dog was playing. One thing we can all agree on is this clip is adorable and that Boxer is a very good dog.

When Bruno is laying down and I start to touch his feet he'll do the same. Start to move his feet because he thinks its a game we are playing. Not because he is emotionally connecting with my touch. Here is a clip where I touch Bruno's foot with a clothes hanger. Bruno sits up. When I touch his front foot he paws at it much like the Boxer who put his paw on the baby's hand.

Space

I often hear people state that when they correct their dog for a bad behavior the dog sulks, leaves the room or turns his head because the dog is "upset". The humans interpret this behavior as the dog's feelings are hurt. They feel bad and believe they need to go and "make up" with the dog.

What is the dog really saying? If you correct your dog and he turns his head or leaves the room he is giving in to you and accepting you as his leader. Giving space or turning away from direct eye contact are submissive behaviors. When humans try and "make up" with a dog after the dog has given in to you, it sends confusing mixed signals to the dog.

These examples are just the tip of the iceberg. Humans misread their dogs on a daily basis and on a wide scale of issues. I can't even imagine what it is like for a dog to be constantly misread and how confusing it must be for them. Most dogs do not wish to be the leaders, do not wish to run the show. They only wish to be secure with their pack and clearly know their status. However, they will take over when they do not see the humans as stronger then themselves. We humans would do our dogs a huge favor by trying to better understand them rather than just assume they are just like us.

We strongly suggest Cesar Millan DVD's and or Cesar Millan Books to every dog owner, from Chihuahua to Pit Bull. An excellent guide to communicating with, understanding, and controlling your dog.

Written by Wow Dogs

Choosing The Perfect Puppy Names - Find A Special Name For Your Special Puppy

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Thu, 4 Jun 2009 19:28:00 -0700

So you're looking for a cool puppy name for your cheeky new housemate. No doubt you are searching for some inspiration and ideas so you can come up with a puppy name that is unique and befitting of your new little friend. You want a name that perfectly suits your individual dog and does him/her absolute justice.

There are so many things to consider and take care of when preparing for the arrival of a new puppy. First you have to choose the most suitable breed of dog, then find a reputable breeder and most importantly pick out the little puppy who will become your lifelong companion. It doesn't stop there... Once home you will need to provide all the basic puppy supplies, socializing your puppy to the world becomes an urgent priority and then of course you will need to get stuck into some early puppy training.

This puppy deserves a cool name - how about "Fuzz"?

"The puppy name you decide on says as
much about you as it does about your dog."

One of your most important (and fun!) decisions when you get a new puppy is to come up with a funky name - but where do you begin to search for that perfect puppy name?

A popular way to find a name for your puppy, that is both appropriate and memorable, is to look through the extensive online databases listed below. These are sure to give you some great puppy name ideas and maybe even some inspiration to make up your own.

Puppy Names - Check Out These Huge Databases Of Dog Names

Female Dog Names

Click on the link above for a huge range of puppy naming ideas. You'll find heaps of cool female dog names, cute dog names, all the popular dog names, girl dog names and lots more! You can't help but be inspired by these great resources!

Male Dog Names

Click on the link above for heaps of ideas for male puppy names. You'll find a huge resource of popular boy dog names, favorite puppy names and unique boy dog names. Best of luck finding a brilliant name for your male puppy.

Regardless of which puppy name you come up with, your pup will need plenty of guidance, socialization and puppy training in order to become a trusted and well behaved member of the family. To help guide you through the various puppy training stages I recommend you follow this comprehensive puppy training resource - Secrets To Dog Training. This package will take you step by step through the puppy house training process, preventing problem behaviors and right through to advanced obedience training commands.

Some other pages you may be interested in:

How To Choose A Dog Breed - Choose a puppy that is just right for you and your lifestyle.

Choosing A Puppy Out Of The Litter - Things to consider when selecting your little puppy out of a litter.

How To Train Your Puppy - Covers all the basic puppy training issues.

Dog Supplies - Online Store - Need some dog supplies for your new puppy?

Perfect puppy name

Tapping Into Your Dog's Ability...

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Thu, 4 Jun 2009 18:14:00 -0700

Through Dog Agility Training

Is your dog the star of the dog park? Does he move like a speeding bullet? Jump like a jackrabbit? Does he make the cute poodles drool and the show-offs look like fools?

Whether you can attribute this energy level to his breed type or to his personality, if he’s got it, he’s got to use it. You can choose to commit to giving him plenty of outdoor play time, or...you can make the most of that inherent ability...by involving him in dog agility training.

Dog agility. It’s more than a growing trend. It’s an outlet for your dog’s natural, instinctual habits. It’s a timed event, consisting of a roadmap of several obstacles, which your dog is asked to negotiate in a particular order, without fault, and under a judge-determined time limit. The pressure is on!

Think about what you know about your dog’s ancestors’ behavior. In the wild, dogs are required to chase and kill prey, and to also avoid being the prey. Imagine pursuit of a rabbit, for instance. That rabbit, when chased by a hungry canine, will hurdle rocks, slip under fallen logs, teeter on natural bridges, climb sheer slopes, and squeeze through brambles and thick brush. And if that dog is hungry, he’ll be required to do the same. Considering the hardy survival of the canine population in the wild, we can deduct that they’ve been considerably successful in chasing those quick little guys. Because they’re good at it!

Here’s another thought. Humans are also designed to be agile. Your ancestors sprinted from saber-tooth tigers, traversed rushing rivers, zigzagged through dense forests, and chased food of their own.

So, as you may guess that I’m going to suggest...why not join your dog in a rewarding sport that plays into all that’s natural and necessary..exercise, entertainment, satisfaction? All wrapped into a fast paced and elegant demonstration of adrenaline-fueled teamwork..in dog agility trials.

The History of Dog Agility

As with many of the most innovative and useful inventions, dog agility’s birth was rather unintentional. At London’s famous Crufts Dog Show in 1978, a horse-enthusiast was charged with entertaining the crowd between events. He designed a spectator event that employed dogs, doing equestrian-like feats. It was a hit, and came to the States in 1986, under the title of the U.S. Dog Agility Association. It was so much fun that it has become the fastest-growing dog sport in history.

Is your Dog an Athlete?
Or Would He Rather Just Take a Seat?

I hate to create an exclusive club here, but as with most sports, certain types are more conducive to success. Generally speaking, if your dog is descendant from a working breed, and is of medium build, then his chances of doing well are greatly increased. Among the best breeds for dog agility training are: Terriers, Shepherds, Collies, Retrievers, Sheepdogs, Spaniels, Poodles, Schnauzers, Cattle Dogs, Pinschers, Corgis, Canaans, Malinois, Papillons, and Tervurens. Mixed breeds are accepted by all dog agility clubs, except for the AKC.

Some breeds are definite underdogs when it comes to agility training. Giant breeds like Great Danes and Mastiffs usually have neither the energy nor the desire to participate. Short-nosed breeds like Boxers, Bulldogs, and some Terriers have difficulty with activities that require heavy breathing. Breeds with short legs, like Dachshunds, can have a hard time clearing the jumps.

Age can also be a factor to consider. Puppies are excluded from trials until they reach 9 months of age, and it’s recommended that dogs older than 8 years of age enjoy their retirement – work free.

As we discussed earlier, a lot of your dog’s ability will be determined by his personality and energy level. Don’t loose heart...if you’ve got a snorer, a giant breed, or a little shrimp...remember that no breed is excluded from dog agility trails. If your kid’s got heart, then give it a shot. On the other paw, if your guy would rather lie on your lap and not break a pant, he may be better suited to a low-impact sport – the spectator type.

Benefits of Dog Agility Training

You’ve probably gathered, by now, from the information contained in my site, that almost any food, activity, or pastime that adheres to a canine’s natural lifestyle (as in that of his ancestors) is best. Agility enhances all of your active dog’s inherent abilities, plus one added element – YOU. So, that means it’s doubly beneficial – because it caters to the natural order for you and your pooch.

Once you begin, and continue to improve upon, your dog’s agility training, you’ll notice that he’s more alert, vigorous, and confident. His problem-solving capabilities will multiply. The attention that you require from him will strengthen his bond with you, reinforce basic obedience commands, and improve his communication ability. The physical demands of the dog agility courses will hone his coordination, increase endurance, and improve his overall health through physical fitness. And all of that exercise will improve his behavior off the course – because as we all know – a tired dog is a good dog.

And, yes, as for you...all of the above benefits apply. Go ahead, read the list again – it’s practically guaranteed!

Are you Ready, Freddy?
Versed Things First

How’s your dog’s vocabulary? Is he well-versed in basic obedience commands? If your dog consistently obeys standard commands such as sit, stay, down, heel, etc., then you may be ready to embark upon the agility express. If your dog isn’t confident in you and the commands that you use, he’ll never trust you when you ask him to enter a dark agility tunnel. Yikes!

Besides your dog’s vocabulary, his physical maturity needs to be a consideration. Dogs must be a minimum of 9 months old to compete, but that doesn’t mean that every dog is ready at 9 months. Consider this: If your dog’s breed is expected to reach its maximum weight at under 50 pounds, then he won’t be finished growing until he’s 9-12 months old. Likewise, breeds that are expected to tip the scales at over 50 pounds aren’t likely to finish their upward pound-climb until they reach 10-14 months of age. Keeping this in mind, asking a puppy to clear regulation-height agility jumps before he is finished growing is a risky endeavor. His joints can’t handle that kind of trauma. Jumps higher than a growing puppy’s shoulder should remain out of the question. But, by all means, grounded equipment, like tunnels and boards, can be tackled as soon as the basic commands are mastered.

Dog Agility Training is no Gravy Train

Maybe you’ve watched an agility trial, and you and your dog are both anxious to compete. The adrenaline, the competition, the...slow down, Fido. Experts maintain that most dogs will need 6-9 months of daily, committed training before they’re ready for the real thing. And it really is a journey - a very rewarding one at that.

Bond with your dog in a playful atmosphere. Use toys to play fetch, tug-of-war, or Frisbee to reinforce commands and bring home the idea that work can be fun for your dog. You wouldn’t join your first fitness club and sign up for the advanced class on the first day. Similarly, your dog needs to work up to his best physical condition. Gradually introduce equipment, one piece at a time, in the form of short agility tunnels and low jumps. With time and continual success, tunnels may be lengthened and bars raised to regulation level. This will not only build your dog’s fitness and difficulty levels at a manageable pace, but will prevent injury and frustration.

Establish commands specific to each piece of equipment. This will be helpful when directing your dog in the ring (you’ll have the map of the course, he won’t). Also make sure that he’s confident in commands to indicate fast, slow, right, left, up, down, heel, away, etc. to keep him on course. Reward good progress with treats and lots of love. Never reprimand for missed jumps or other fumbles. If you do, your dog will quickly become frustrated and want to give up. And, remember, if your dog approaches obstacles with his head or tail down, or if he shows any reluctance at the sight of the agility equipment, then it’s not fun, and it may not be the thing for him.

Your veterinarian should always be a partner in your dog’s health. Before beginning agility training, have your dog’s joints, heart, lungs, and eyes checked. Additionally, extra weight can hinder his performance. A little belt-cinching may be in order, and your veterinarian can offer the best food plan for your little chunk.

If you like group support and good advice (who doesn’t?), then look up a dog agility club in your area. You may also be able to find a trainer that specializes in agility training. Always keep it fun. Never focus on the prize, but rather, on the special bond that you will establish with your fun-and-fitness partner.

A Great Example Of The Joys Of Dog Agility Training!

Don’t Let Sub-Standard Equipment be an Obstacle to Success

Would you train for a marathon without running shoes? Or study for a spelling bee without a dictionary? Well then, you certainly can’t ask Spot to be ready for an agility trial unless he’s already familiar with the equipment. Likewise, if the equipment that you’re using to train doesn’t meet Dog Agility Standards, you will be sabotaging your dog’s performance under the lights. Specialized retailers sell, and specialized trainers use, standard agility equipment. You may also build your own, as long as you’re certain that it conforms with the Agility Standards put forth by the Agility Association with which you’ll be competing.

Here, I’ve included an overview of some of the most popular agility training equipment / obstacles and their descriptions:

Tunnels:

Rigid tunnels consist of a wire frame, covered in vinyl. They are tubular in fashion and remain open for their entire length. They generally have the flexibility to be stretched out in a straight or curved line. Standards usually call for a tunnel 10-20’ in length, 24” in diameter.

Collapsed tunnels are constructed with a rigid, tubular entrance. Connected is an 8-10’ fabric trailer, which the dog must push his way through.

Seesaw:

A seesaw, or teeter-totter, is constructed using a plank, attached and perpendicular to, a center support pole. The plank is weighted on the entrance side so that it will automatically return to the starting position. The dog enters on the lowered side. As he reaches the center of the plank, his weight will cause the plank to shift, like a seesaw, and he will walk down, and off the exit side.

Dog Walk:

A dog walk is built using one center plank, 4’ from, and parallel to, the ground. Two other identical planks serve as the entrance to and the exit from this center plank, mounted at opposing angles from it to the ground. All 3 planks are to be 9-12” wide and 8-12’ long.

Pause Table:

The pause table is just that – a table on which the dog pauses. It can be any 3’x3’ table or platform, 8-30” from the ground (differs per height class). The dog jumps onto it and lies down for 5 seconds.

Pause Box:

A pause box is used just like a pause table, except that it is simply a 3’x3’ square marked off with tape or other material on the ground.

Jumps:

A tire jump is built by supporting or suspending a tire from a frame. The dog must jump through without touching the tire.

Not a high jump, the broad jump is made by adjoining low platforms on the ground.

The single jump is constructed of two vertical side bars, with one adjustable horizontal bar for jumping over.

The double jump is fashioned after the single jump, but rather consists of 2 sets of vertical supports, placed one set in front of the other, with horizontal bars mounted at differing heights.

Additionally, the triple jump is built using 3 sets of vertical supports and horizontal bars, at varying depths and heights, much like stair steps.

Finally, a panel jump also uses vertical supports, but rather than a bar for jumping, a solid, removal panel is utilized. Panels of varying heights are used for different height classes.

A-Frame:

A-Frames are constructed from 2 planks, placed at upright angles, to form a rough “A” shape. Each plank is 8’-9’ long and 36” wide. They are hinged at the top, where they meet. Contact zones of 36-42” are required on the entry and exit sides, and grips or ridges are necessary to help the dog in navigating up one side and down the other.

Weave Poles:

Weave Poles are upright and fixed in a straight line, 20” from one another. The dog must weave in and out of the 3’ tall poles, in a zigzag fashion, entering with the first pole at his left shoulder.

Solid, standard, equipment is essential to your dog’s agility trial success. If he’s inadvertently injured on sub-standard obstacles, he will be skittish and fearful of ever mounting that apparatus again. If he shows up to a trial and is introduced to foreign equipment, he will be unable to perform. Set him up for success. By purchasing, renting, borrowing, or building quality benchmark equipment, you will elicit a performance of equal excellence.

An Array of Agility

Just like dog biscuits...dog agility courses come in a variety of flavors. Levels are cumulative. You’ll start as a novice, on a simpler course, and move on to more difficult courses, if you choose to do so. Here are some of the more well-known types of agility courses:

Standard Agility:

This type of courses generally consists of 15-22 obstacles, of varying types – contact, tunnels, weave poles, jumps, etc.

Jumping:

Jumping agility courses contain mainly...you guessed it...jumps. There are no contact obstacles, though a few tunnels and/or weave poles may be tossed in.

Power & Speed:

The Power part of this course is a sort of pre-qualifier. If the dog is able to navigate the course without any faults (untimed), he will then be permitted to enter in the timed trial (test of speed).

Juniors:

Junior...as in the handler, not the dog. If you are under the age of 18, you and your dog can compete in this category to win medals or rosettes. Within this agility class, levels range from beginner to senior, and build in difficulty and number of obstacles.

Teams:

Two handlers with two dogs, or three handlers with three dogs are each responsible for completing a portion of a standard dog agility course. A baton is passed, much like in an all-human relay race.

Gamblers:

Gambling is not for the beginner or under-confident team. The first half of the course is run in a sort of freestyle, where the handler pre-determines the obstacles that the dog will navigate, and the order in which it will be performed. When the judge indicates time, the dog must then switch to a pre-determined course order, much like standard agility. The big challenge here...the handler cannot run alongside the dog! He or she must stay behind a line and give commands from a distance.

Snooker:

Sharpen your pencils, folks. This course will test your mathematical skills. On the course, you’ll find jumps, consisting of three red ones, all numbered “1”. There are also 6 others, numbered “2” through “7”. The dog must begin by jumping a red one, then any other non-red jump. Then another red...and so on. The numbers on the jumps are then added up to determine the final score. As with Gamblers, there is an opening and a closing portion.

Of course, each Dog Agility Association’s rules vary, and not every one is offered through every organization. And, there are undoubtedly more courses available that are unique to each association. Do your homework – find an organization that is active in your area. Talk to local pet supply retailers, trainers, and shelters for more information.

Running with the Big Dogs

Before attending your first dog agility trial, there are a few things that you’ll need to have in order. First, be sure that your entry fee is paid in full – well in advance of the deadline. Be certain that you and your dog are completely confident with every obstacle. Run them as if you were at competition, then, when trial day comes, there will be no nasty surprises for your dog.

By now, you should have familiarized yourself with the standard agility equipment used by the association of your choice, and you should know what rules will be imposed during the trial. Surprises are never a catalyst for success.

Ready...Set...Go!

Oh, your dog is looking good. He’s clearing the jumps with ease, weaving like a pro, and his new slim, trim figure has all the girl dogs drooling. You’ve made all of the arrangements for your first agility trial. So now...what to do once you get there?

Know your organization. No leniency will be provided for misunderstanding. Disqualification is inevitable if rules are broken – excuses will not be accepted.

Plan to arrive at the site of the trial at registration time, not your run time. It’s conceivable that your run time may be changed, and it’s always helpful to your agility career when you have extra time to spend with professionals, helping out and learning from them. Take along whatever your dog needs to be comfortable while he’s waiting for his big moment. A safe crate and his favorite doggy toy can go a long way toward making him feel at home. Food and water are also musts. Take some time to play, so that he’s not brimming over with blinding energy, and some time for rest, so that he’s alert.

Agility courses generally cover about 180 linear yards within a 10,000 square foot area. You will have the opportunity to assess the course before trial time. Showtime will be the first time your dog sees the course, however. No treats, toys, or leashes are permitted in the ring at trial time. You may escort your dog to the start line on a leash, but it must then be abandoned.

Your dog will enter agility trials at the Novice level (a.k.a. Starter or No Title). As he accumulates Q’s, or Qualifying Runs, he will be able to move onto the Open and Elite categories. He will earn a “Q” if he completes a run under the judge-determined Standard Course Time (SCT), without a single fault. Any of the following are considered a fault:

Any part of the dog touches any part of a jump (obvious if a bar is knocked from the jump).
The dog exits a piece of equipment without touching the contact zone with at least one paw.
The run goes over the SCT.
The handler makes contact with any equipment.
The handler makes contact with the dog.
The obstacles are taken out of order.
If the dog soils the agility ring.

These are somewhat standard, but remember, each association’s rules are unique.

No matter your dog’s category, skill level, or association affiliation, one concept rings true for all agility participators. RELAX. Have fun. For your dog, this trial is just another run in the park, another practice in the back yard. Don’t let nerves get the best of you – so that the crowd, and the judges, can see the best of your dog.

Porch Potatoes Need not Apply

Every dog is special. Maybe yours is a sports star. Or, maybe he’s more like the manager, or the water boy...or the disinterested spectator. No matter, it’s important to find an activity that fits your boy or girl to a tee. Every dog needs a job – likes to feel needed and necessary. When you’ve got one that exhibits everything necessary for dog agility training, you’re going to have one happy tail-wagger in that ring.

So, tap into that natural ability. Go for agility!

This is a quick but excellent overview of dog agility training in action

Dog Tricks - Cool Dog Tricks To Teach Your Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Thu, 4 Jun 2009 18:11:00 -0700

Welcome To The Dog Tricks Zone - This Is
The Most Fun You Will Ever Have With Your Dog!

Teaching dog tricks is one of the greatest joys of having a canine companion in your life. Dog trick training is the best way I found to truly interact with my dogs and it is a sure fire way to forge a strong bond together. Teaching and performing dog tricks helps to build happy, confident dogs and is a great outlet for all of their energy.

Jump straight down to my list of fun Dog Tricks

Dog Tricks - Give It A Go!

Why Bother Teaching Dog Tricks?

My main motivation or reason for teaching dog tricks is to have fun - that's it!

Dog trick training is not as serious as say obedience training but it does provide many of the same benefits - to you and your dog:

In the process of learning new tricks you open up a genuine form of two way communication with each other - as a result you'll find you are more in-tune with each other.
Trick training helps to build confident dogs who are not afraid to experiment in the training process - which is important.
Dog tricks are great if you or your dog are partial to showing off!
Dog trick training is great for calming overly energetic dogs. Your dog's energy must come out in one way or another so why not channel it into something constructive and fun like trick training?
Dog tricks can be called on as an "alternate behavior" when your dog is doing something undesirable. For example, if your dog is barking at the door or jumping up on guests you could call on your "play dead" trick to redirect his/her behavior.
People who are nervous around dogs are often put at ease by a dog performing a cool trick like a "bow" or "roll-over" - your dog suddenly appears less threatening.

How Do We Teach Dog Tricks?

We use proven behavioral science principles that were developed in the lab but are now put to good use throughout the animal training world.

When teaching new tricks we make it a very simple step by step process for our dogs to follow. Training sessions are fun, short and focussed on one easy skill at a time for your dog to master. Then we gradually raise our goal or expectations and take it to a slightly higher level, until we have the complete and polished trick. Then we start all over again with a new trick!

We rely on consistency, timely feedback, positive reinforcement and repetition to shape new tricks. There is no place for excessive force or intimidation in any dog training - especially when it comes to teaching fun dog tricks!

If you would like to read a more in-depth definition of clicker training and operant conditioning visit Karen Pryor's great website.

Tools Of A Dog Trick Trainer

To be honest, the only absolute essential "tool" is your willing canine friend. To help the trick training process along I like to utilize the following tools:

Clicker:

The clicker is also sometimes referred to as a "conditioned reinforcer". When you make the distinctive clicking sound you are marking that exact moment of time in your dog's mind. You are communicating to your dog - "Yes that's what I want, well done, do that again!". A clicker is simply a little plastic box, it is not magic but is very very effective when used properly.

Treats/Motivation:

Training treats are also known as the "primary reinforcer". After you click to mark a certain behavior you desire the treat or reward must always follow. If you find your dog's favorite treat or motivation he/she will do almost anything to receive one. My little Shih-Tzu Macy loves liver treats and small pieces of cheese. It's important to note that the use of a clicker and the treats is necessary when shaping a new trick but can be phased out when the time is right.

Target Stick:

Target sticks are very handy for guiding your dog into the positions you want from them. This method is called "targeting" - it is a great way to build a wide range of cool tricks. You will also call upon "capturing", "shaping" and "luring" in your trick training sessions - don't worry you don't need to understand these terms yet.

General Rules To Keep In Mind When Teaching Your Dog Tricks

You will find more detailed and specific instruction within the text and videos provided for each individual dog trick. Below are a few general rules to keep in mind whenever you are doing some dog trick training:

All dogs are different. There is no set way to teach tricks that will work for every dog on the block. It's up to you to discover what works best for your individual dog in regard to the motivation you use, length of training sessions and how quickly you progress through each new skill.
When you start out training a new trick always keep it simple for your dog. Start out with an easy skill, in a familiar place to your dog and with no other distractions present. Then build the trick up piece by piece and add some distractions when you feel your dog is ready.
Always provide clear, consistent and timely feedback to your dog. It's amazing how much your dog will look to you for cues and guidance. Ensure that you are relaying the right message to your dog and in a consistent fashion.
Generally speaking you are better off not training tricks immediately after feeding your dog or when he/she is bursting with energy. It's ideal if your dog is in a somewhat calm state and ready to focus on the task at hand - I know, this is not easy!
Always get the behavior (trick) you want your dog to perform first - then attach your cue or command to it. Not the other way around.
No dog is too young or old for some fun trick training sessions. As long as your dog is not restricted by any health problems you can get started right now!
Dogs don't generalize well. What this means in the context of trick training is that if you want your dog to perform his jaw dropping "roll-over" trick wherever you go, you must teach him how to do it everywhere you go.
Some basic obedience training is helpful before you begin to teach your dog tricks. Apart from helping the trick training process, obedience training is vital for your dog's safety and well-being.

Dog Tricks - Written Instruction & Video Examples

Getting Ready For Tricks

Charging The Clicker

Introducing The Target Stick

Cool Dog Tricks!

Spin Dog Trick	Take A Bow
Beg	Play Dead

The http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Dog Grooming Basics - All You Need To Keep Your Dog In Tip Top Shape

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Thu, 4 Jun 2009 18:01:00 -0700

Simple or Stylish - a Complete Nose to Tail Makeover

Go to "Dog Grooming At Home Study Guide"

It is believed that as far back as 100,000 years ago, the wolf’s DNA differentiated itself from the dog’s. Whether this occurred as a turning point in the evolutionary timeline, or as a result of man’s hand is unclear. What is clear is that the idea of a domesticated canine following man’s footsteps is no new concept.

One study suggests that all dogs alive today are descendants of 3 Chinese bitches, who lived 15,000 years ago. Shall we say, the 3 Eves of dogkind?

Additionally, a human was found buried with his dog in Germany. Both bodies dated to 14,000 years ago. And, the oldest bones of a companion dog found in North or South American have been unearthed in Utah – and that little fella is believed to be 11,000 years old. Basically humans and dogs go way back, and it's easy to see why...

The History of Pooch Panache

Now that we’ve touched on Dog History 101, the question remains: If domesticated dogs have been around since about 12,000 B.C., when did humans begin to practice dog grooming? Did cavemen set up shop in fissures and barter puppy clips? Not likely. The first instance is surely not documented. Maybe it consisted of matted patches of fur cut with a sharpened whale bone, or yeast-filled ears cleaned with a cloth woven from animal fur?

What we do know is that documentation and depictions of dogs serving as princes and princesses of their owners’ castles exist as far back as 4240 B.C. And, as you may imagine, they were not akin to Tramp. I’d bet they were more the class of Lady!

In 17th Century France, the poodle became the official dog of Louis XV’s court, awarding her the rags-to-riches term “French Poodle”. Many of the do’s that the poodle donned long ago still live today – in the Continental and English Saddle clips. Around that same time, Terriers were considered to be prettier when their coats were trimmed of excess wiry hair.

In the 19th Century, the first documentation of how-to grooming guides serves as evidence of washing, trimming, and general maintenance of the aristocratic dog. Paintings from that same period depict both a lady shearing her companion, and a professional performing the same in a village marketplace.

No matter the exact point in time when professional dog grooming was born, we can all agree – it’s been a doggone long time. Our own hairstyles have changed – from the powdered wig to the mullet to the stacked bob. Our fashions have evolved from buffalo hides to hoop skirts to leg warmers to low-rise jeans. But one glance at a dated depiction of man and his best friend will reveal that dog style has changed little. In fact, if you look hard enough, you’re likely to find a painting of a man wearing a beaver fur hat and a frock coat, accompanied by a little Yorkshire Terrier that eerily resembles your own little Yorkie.

Dog grooming is an art that has spanned centuries – and one that has never gone out of style.

Grooming not just for High-Class Citizens

Is your dog a high-maintenance diva, or a scruffy, low-maintenance tough guy?

Regardless of whether your buddy sports bows and braids, or burrs and a funky odor, a few grooming practices are mandatory for the maintenance of a dog’s health and happiness.

The Daily Brush is not a club into which only long-haired dogs are admitted. Brushing is necessary for controlling shedding and stimulating blood flow. It also removes parasites, like fleas and ticks, from all lengths of hair. Stimulating the skin with brushing promotes proper oil distribution to the coat, which is essential to a shiny, healthy look and feel. It’s imperative that long-haired dogs are brushed daily, for resulting mats can be painful and dangerous to cut away.

Bathing your dog not only transforms him a more pleasant-smelling companion, but promotes skin health and a shiny coat.

Nail Trimming is more than a diva’s pedicure. Nails that are too long can curl into the dog’s pad and cause pain and result in infection. They can split, causing the same kind of pain that your own split nail would cause. Additionally, too-long nails can cause toes to spread, resulting in lameness, poor posture, and joint pain. And yes, long nails hurt you...and your furniture.

Tooth Brushing offers more benefits than the obvious. In addition to curbing doggie breath, it stimulates blood flow to the gums, removes plaque and tartar, and prevents gum (periodontal) disease. Your dog’s teeth are important – because to date, effective doggie dentures have not been patented.

Ear Cleaning is especially important for our floppy-eared friends. If you’ve ever had a dog with an ear infection, there was no denying it. Between the smell and the head-shaking, it’s more than obvious. Floppy ears promote the build-up of wax and the growth of sinister villains like bacteria, fungus, and yeast, which can lead to infection, itching, pain, and further complications if not treated.

Clipping is essential for certain long-haired breeds, to prevent mats and skin problems.

Other grooming musts occur on a case-by-case basis. For instance, if your dog is sprayed by a skunk, has hot spots, or is hosting a flea circus, auxiliary procedures are necessary to return Spot to normal.

It’s important for either you or a professional groomer to perform, at a minimum, the above procedures to stay abreast of your dog’s health – to spot lumps or lesions, and remove harmful parasites.

Every dog deserves basic grooming. Just as you know the importance of daily bathing and grooming for yourself, you should now understand that a dog’s level of health can be in direct proportion to the amount of grooming attention he receives. When you groom your dog, you’re offering a service that wolves shower upon one another, daily. When pack members groom one another, they are not only removing insects and other harmful elements from one another’s fur, but they are strengthening the pack bond.

Ready...Steady...Groom!

I’ve got to be honest with you – if I was expected to stand still while a stranger came toward me with sharp objects, buzzing appliances, and strange-smelling concoctions that I’d never before encountered, I would be nervous, to say the least. But, having my own hair cut and styled is no big deal. Why? Because I’ve been conditioned to understand that there is no threat, either from the barber or from the tools she uses. If I had been raised in a commune where haircutting was forbidden, and was then released into the civilized world, my first haircut would be a traumatic event. Who knows? I might bite someone – and I’m not even a dog.

Helping your dog to embrace these same notions at an early age is imperative if you intend for him to have a pleasant grooming experience.

Start as soon as you bring the dog into your home. He can never be too young or too old. Introduce basic commands (stand, sit, stay, lie down, paw) and make common practice of massaging, brushing, poking, and picking at your dog. Open his mouth and introduce a toothbrush donned with poultry or beef flavored toothpaste. Spread his toes and wiggle your finger in between his pads. Lift his ears and lips. Take his collar off and back on again.

Why? Imagine this. If you were never hugged, kissed, touched, or patted on the back, you might be suspicious of the first person that approached you in such a manner. If hands were never laid on you, except for punishment, you might be inclined to defend yourself against any advances. That’s how a dog that hasn’t been introduced to touching will feel about his groomer – whether it’s you or a professional. Make it fun – teach your dog to revel in the attention.

Start early to properly socialize your dog. Take him to the park, to stores that allow pets, to friends’ houses that have children and pets. When a dog is introduced to a situation early, with no negative effects, he will trust similar situations throughout his life. Again, imagine if you were holed up in a house with the same people for all of your life, never coming in contact with anyone in the outside world. When you finally meet outside people, your reactions would likely be much different than those of a person who’s become accustomed to socializing. Your dog will naturally be suspicious of people if he hasn’t come to learn that there are lots of them and most of them are harmless. The last thing you want is for your dog to assume that his groomer is going to harm him. That will result in anxiety for the dog and possible injury to the groomer.

Obedience classes are a wonderful way to familiarize your dog with other animals and people, and to teach him basic commands that will be helpful during grooming.

Introduce your dog to running water and a sink with warm water in it. If you plan to wash at home, use the sink that you will do it in. If you plan on using a professional groomer, at least the dog will be trustful of the sound and feel of the water.

A spayed or neutered animal is always calmer, and less prone to anxiety and biting.

When the day finally comes for your puppy or dog’s first grooming appointment, drop him off and leave quickly. Assurance from you sends a message to the dog that there’s something to worry about. Likewise, if you’re planning on doing the dog grooming yourself, maintain a light and playful attitude. Reassuring your dog through the process may serve to raise his anxiety level – and yours. Don't make a big deal of it.

Be sure to inform your dog’s groomer of any health issues, not only those which you deem relevant to the grooming procedure. Also, be sure that your dog’s vaccinations are current before his first grooming appointment.

When to Heed the Dog Groomer Rumors

As with choosing your own hairstylist, looking in the yellow pages isn’t the recommended method. You could find yourself contracted with Edward Scissorhands, or the last man on earth that still embraces the mullet.

Likewise, the yellow pages and strip mall signs are not good methods for quality decision making. Compile a list of potential groomers and visit each one, taking the following factors into consideration. When choosing your dog groomer consider these important elements:

Cleanliness: Does the staff clean up after each dog’s procedure? Are cages kept free of urine and feces? If the smell in the facility is offensive, I would assume the service to be the same. When you patronize a substandard grooming facility, you risk the infection of your dog’s skin...or worse.
Humane Treatment: Are the animals in the groomer’s care treated with a nurturing and patient manner? Are the handlers gentle? Are dogs and cats housed in separate areas? Are cages large enough to accommodate the animals in them? And are dogs under automatic blow dryers monitored to prevent burning? If, during your visit, the staff at the facility does not seem to be enamored with their furry clients, then imagine how they treat them while not under your scrutiny.
Good Lighting and Organization: Is the facility well-lit? Are work areas well-spaced and organized? If more than one groomer works at a time, does each one have sufficient space to move around his or her workspace? If the groomer is cramped, expected to operate with substandard equipment, or under insufficient lighting, no one can honestly expect the results to be dynamic.
Finished Product: Visit during regular business hours so that you can assess the quality of the hairstyles exiting. Would you be satisfied if your dog were donning the same quality? Crooked cuts and skin nicks are good reasons to cross a groomer’s office off your list.
Particular Breed Results: If your dog is of the Terrier persuasion, do not make a decision based on a Golden Retriever’s bath and clip. Some groomers specialize in particular breeds, and likewise, some shy away from certain breeds because they do not have the experience or the desire to perform a certain style. Be specific about your dog’s breed and the clip style that you fancy. Ask for pictures, and decide for yourself.
Vaccinations: Choose a groomer who requires all canine clients to sport vaccination records – like Rabies and Bordatella (Kennel Cough). This will protect all animals, including yours, that share a space while in the facility.
Familiarize Yourself: Take a few minutes to ask the manager or staff questions involving time required for a visit, appointment availability, cost, pick-up and delivery procedures, and complete services offered.
Tranquilizers: If your dog is of the anxious sort, and will require a tranquilizer for his appointment, ask your groomer if they will administer it. Many will not (unless they’re affiliated with a veterinary office), but will accept an animal that has been tranquilized by a veterinarian and transported to the groomer’s office.

Additionally, network with your dog’s veterinarian, kennel, pet supply retailer, breeder, and pet-owner friends for recommendations. Clients who have had a bad experience will talk – and so will those who’ve been satisfied. Rumors travel fast – but so does a good word about a quality product.

You can expect to pay $40 to $60 for your dog’s visit to a professional groomer. Of course, that price can vary. Urban locales tend to be pricier. Mobile dog grooming services’ prices are a bit higher, but so is their convenience factor. And, of course, heavy matting and complex cuts will add bucks to your bill.

Whether you chance the groomer-next-door, or travel three towns south, a finicky attitude is central to grooming success.

Get a Dog Clip without making the Trip

Trekking to the dog groomer can be difficult for some folks. Namely seniors, the disabled, and those with limited available time to do so. Additionally, some dogs fall victim to car sickness or are just too aged or ill to withstand the trip. For any of these difficult situations, there is an answer – Mobile Dog Grooming.

Mobile dog grooming offers convenience in a busy world. The difference in price from stationary facilities might just be justified with the amount of gas and time that you save. Housed in vans or trailers, mobile dog groomers will perform full service dog grooming right outside your home. You’re simply responsible for providing a legal parking space. The grooming is performed right under your muzzle, so you can be sure that procedures are performed to your high standards.

Moreover, your dog is king of the mobile groomer’s office. He’ll have the entire facility to himself. That means no sharing of parasites or illnesses, or animal kingdom tussles with other questionable characters.

Mobile groomers also come in handy when you’re out of town with your pooch. You no longer have to search for a groomer’s office. They’ll come to your hotel or resort and pamper your beloved. So why make the trip?

Dog Grooming at Home – Keepin’ it in the Family

Considering attending to your dog’s hygiene needs at home? Consider this: When you work your dog’s skin and remove foreign objects, you’re mirroring a portion of his natural, wild heritage. Wolves do it for one another, and now you can use home dog grooming, not only as part of a money-saving routine, but as a vehicle to bond with your best bud. He will repay you with heightened loyalty and extra wet kisses.

Just ten minutes per day spent doting on your doggie’s physical condition will result in a stronger bond and a mutual respect.

You may want to shoulder all hygiene needs at home, or just a portion. Here, you’ll find a menu of standard services offered by professional dog groomers (or, you). Keep in mind that if you choose to take care of your dog's grooming needs at home, you will be required to purchase a few dog grooming supplies to get you up and running.

Brushing:

Fur, that is - We’ll Touch on Teeth Later

Daily brushing is necessary for every dog, regardless of fur length. True, longer hair is more prone to mats and tangles, but brushing your short-haired dog stimulates blood flow and oils, and importantly, alerts you to any changes in his skin condition.

If, while brushing, you notice sore spots, itchy skin, or a notably dull coat, consider your dog’s overall health. If his latest veterinary check-up has proven him to be free from disease, consider changing his diet. Higher quality dog foods are sometimes the answer. Also, the addition of fatty oil to his diet can clear up skin conditions quite effectively.

Also note that parasites in your dog’s fur can transfer disease and can take a leap from the dog to you or your family members.

Black specks on the dog’s skin are a sure indicator of the presence of fleas. Run a flea comb through the hair and put your finds into soapy water to kill them. A flea-killing shampoo should be used during your dog’s next bath (start at the head when washing, to avoid a flea stampede into the dog’s ears).

If a tick is found crawling, pluck it and plunge it into rubbing alcohol to kill it. If the tick is imbedded in your dog’s skin, use tweezers to grasp its head, as close to the skin as possible, and pull it straight out, at a 90 degree angle to your dog’s body. Do not use substances like petroleum jelly or dish soap to force the tick to back out of the dog. This could stress the tick and cause it to regurgitate its contents back into Fido. Yuck! Also, do not attempt to kill the tick before pulling it. If you do, you will be left with a half-tick whose jaws are clamped into the skin – making it nearly impossible to remove. If you pull the tick and the head remains in the dog’s skin, swab the area with rubbing alcohol, and the skin will likely naturally push the head out, or the skin will grow around it. Consult with your veterinarian if the area becomes inflamed or red.

Examine your dog for burrs, seeds, thorns and other foreign objects while brushing his fur. Remove any that you find. Check between his pads for those same types of objects. Cuts and irritations from any of these can cause infection and numerous other complications.

Tools needed for brushing depend greatly upon your dog’s coat length. Long-haired dogs are going to require the most maintenance, and the greatest number of grooming tools. You’ll need an oil-based conditioner or detangler, a pair of scissors or a mat razor, a fine toothed comb, a wide toothed comb, a pliant wire brush, and a mat comb. Coats that sport tresses of significant length are pleasing to the touch and the eye, but require an extra shot of maintenance. Mats are common, and must be removed – either by combing or cutting. If left intact, mats will tighten until the dog’s skin is pulled and his movement inhibited. Severe pain and infection can result.

Dogs with a medium length coat can get by with a soft brush for most spots, and a comb for longer, feathered areas.

Short coats, which are all the rage this season, require little hair styling, but stimulation and examination are still necessary. A terrycloth rag or hound glove with massaging nubs work perfectly.

Brushing your dog daily aids in eliminating future problems and gives both of you a special time to look forward to. Read on for a better understanding of the construction of your dog’s coat and to learn about where all of that extra hair is coming from!

The Anatomy of a Dog’s Coat

Collar, Bodice, Hem

To better understand why your dog is carpeting your house with fur, or why you must dodge tumble furweeds to make your way from room to room, let’s discuss the construction and function of the coat.

Dogs that shed seasonally (or year-round) have double coats. That is, a top coat and an undercoat. The top coat is what you see. The shiny, coarse guard hairs protect the dog by repelling water, sun, and other unwelcome contaminants. If you find a hair in your house that looks much like the others lying about, but is longer, tapered at the end, coarser, and thicker, you’ve recovered a guard hair. These guard hairs are shed only once per year.

The undercoat is composed of a more downy hair, and is usually what you find in your dog’s brush. In most climates, the undercoat dies twice per year. The length of daylight triggers a hormone within the dog’s system, which in turn triggers this function. Other circumstances may dictate heavy shedding. Bad nutrition, poor general health, whelping, recent x-rays, surgery, or the administering of anesthesia may cause your dog to present uncharacteristic shedding.

You can expect a normal shedding cycle to last for three to eight weeks. Some breeds, and some dogs that live in areas with irregular daylight patterns, may shed year-round.

You can control your dog’s shedding with the addition of a fatty oil into his diet and regular brushing and bathing. Or, collect it and make a sweater.

Singled-coated dogs, like poodles and some terriers, do not shed. Their hair is more like ours. It keeps growing...and growing...and growing. Single-coated dogs make up a large portion of dog groomers’ clientele for this reason.

Bathing

That Coat is not “Dry Clean Only”

You should bathe your dog about once per month. More frequent bathing could cause drying of his skin. Sometimes, a veterinarian will recommend more frequent shampooing, but will also probably prescribe special shampoo that contains Aloe Vera or another specific medication for your dog’s specific skin problem. Conversely, bathing that’s done too infrequently can leave your dog with an excess of oil, mats, and a bad smell. Use a canine-specific shampoo. Human shampoo has the wrong pH level, and will leave Fido with skin problems.

Have everything you’ll need for your dog’s bath by your side – before beginning. If you’re halfway through the bath and realize that you’ve forgotten the towel, you’ll be in a pickle, to say the least. Have a washcloth, dog wash, and a towel available. Remember any extras, too, like treats or conditioner.

Start by brushing the dog and removing any mats. Place him into an empty tub or sink and add a few inches of warm water, slowly. If the rising water puts Pooch into a panic, use a detachable shower head in a dry tub. Use a light spray or a cup to wet his fur, avoiding his head. Lather, using your fingertips to massage the skin, while taking the time to feel for any lesions, bumps, or parasites. Avoid the eye, ear, and face area while lathering. Most dog soaps aren’t tear-proof.

Be sure to thoroughly rinse the soap from Rover’s fur, or he could be left with itchy skin and a dull or sticky coat.

After he’s rinsed, use a wet washcloth to wipe his face and the insides of his ears. If you're lucky, you’ll get him out of the water before the great shake. A towel placed over his head may help to delay the inevitable while you transfer him to a shake-friendly zone, but always be alert – you could be plastered at any moment.

Workin’ at the Dog Wash. Workin’ at the Dog Wash, Yeah!

What? You don’t enjoy chasing your dog with the hose? Or wiping hair from the bathtub? Or cleaning up after your dog shakes and plasters your home décor with soap, hair, and dog-scented water? Well, you’re not alone.

Enter the Self-Serve Dog Wash.

Self-serve dog washes exist for much the same reason as car washes do. You might enjoy the convenience of a car wash – no unwinding and rewinding of the hose, endurance of low water pressure, or searching for elusive supplies. You can drive into the car wash, do your business, and leave in a matter of minutes, without the headache.

Today’s self-serve dog washes come equipped with all the dog grooming supplies you will ever need including large tubs, sprayers, drains, lead clips to keep Fido in place, dryers, shampoo, and other amenities that vary by location. Some are operated in conjunction with a grooming business, while others are truly self-serve, coin or bill operated, 24-hour facilities.

If you’ll be workin’ at the dog wash, try to plan your trip on a weekday, to avoid a long line of dirty doggies.

You can expect to pay from $10 to $20 per wash. If you have a large dog, a hairy dog, or a dog that likes to...let’s say...express himself during baths, it just might be more than worth it.

Ear Cleaning

Huh? Whadya Say?

Any dog can fall victim to ear problems, but our floppy-eared friends, especially those that swim, are the most susceptible. Why? Because most of the nasties found in a dirty dog ear flourish in damp, dark places. Bacteria, yeast, and fungus like to live with the curtains drawn.

We’ve discussed that ears should be cleaned with clear water and a washcloth during bath time, but it’s also important that ears be checked and cleaned weekly. Wax buildup can lead to population of the sinister villains mentioned above, and can in turn breed a nasty infection, or even a hematoma resulting from all of the dog’s head shaking.

The best indicator of a problem in your dog’s ears is a nasty smell. And believe me, once you smell it, you won’t forget it. Couple that with head shaking, and you’d be wise to get on the phone with the veterinarian.

Your dog’s ears should be inspected every week for sore spots, foreign material, and excessive build-up of any substance.

How to prevent infections? Keep those ears clean.

Start with an ear wash specially made for canines. If your dog has a history of ear infections, his veterinarian may prescribe one that contains a drying agent. Wet a cotton ball and wipe out the inside of the ear flap. If your dog wants to shake, allow him. This will help to loosen the wax and expel the excess fluid. Use a Q-tip to clean the valleys inside the ear flap, but do not insert either the cotton ball or the Q-tip into the canal. You may see the veterinarian do this – but as with any stunt – do not try this at home.

If your dog’s ears sport their own hairdos, they will need to be trimmed before cleaning. Never pluck or trim hairs deeper than half an inch into the canal. Hair removal will allow you to see any abnormalities, and to more effectively clean the ear. Once again, ask your Vet if you have any concerns.

Nail Trimming

Pedicures not Reserved for the Prim

Many pet owners shy away from cutting their own dog’s nails, but if you know what you’re doing, it’s not just a breeze – it’s a wind storm. You may have heard nightmare stories of owners who have cut the quick of the nail and been plagued with flowing blood and a distressed dog for days. Okay, maybe they’re being a bit dramatic, but we’ll go with it. Here, we’ll discuss how to know where the quick starts. We’ll also cover what to do if the quick is cut.

A number of nail cutters are available, including the guillotine and pliers types. The guillotine, or Resco, style is constructed much like a cigar cutter, and the pliers...well, like a pair of pliers. A file or rotary tool designed for smoothing rough edges after the cut can be used...if you can get your dog to sit still that long. Sharp edges normally wear down on their own within a few days. A walk on concrete or blacktop does a great job of this.

It’s recommended that nails be cut every 2 to 3 weeks, to avoid complications from overgrown ones, like split or ingrown nails, and even lameness.

The quick is a bundle of blood vessels and nerves. And it has the potential to quickly complicate your dog’s pedicure experience. If the quick is cut, it will cause your dog a great amount of pain, and the bleeding can be difficult to stop.

If your dog is lucky enough to be blessed with light-colored nails, the quick is visible as a dark or pink area that runs up the center of the nail. Its end is obvious, and that’s important, because you don’t want to cut into it. For these fair beauties, nail cutting instructions are simple: Cut the nail at a flat 90 degree angle, 2 mm from the end of the dark-colored quick.

More common dark nails are more complicated to cut. The quick is not obvious, so it’s best to snip small amounts of the nail at a time, rather than all in one slice. With every cut, look into the interior of the nail. With the first snip, you’ll see the light-colored core of the nail. Cutting into this part is not painful. Continue until a second interior, gray or pink, area is visible. This is the beginning of the quick, which means...quick...stop cutting! Ideally, you’ll want to cut the nail 2 mm from this area in the future, and the more often you cut Poochie’s paws, the more familiar you will become with his unique nail anatomy.

What to do if the quick is nipped? First, there will be no mistaking the cut. Your dog will let you know. Second, understand that it’s not uncommon for an injured quick to bleed rather profusely. If it happens, don’t panic, and cover the bleeding with a towel. Then submerge the nail into a cup of flour or cornstarch, and keep it there for a few minutes. This should slow or stop the bleeding. You may rinse the excess cornstarch or flour from the dog’s paw with warm water. Other commercial products, such as styptic pens, quick-stop, clotting powders, and clotting solutions are also available. Bleeding should stop within 10 minutes.

It’s important to be cautious and precise when trimming your dog’s nails. If a quick is cut, he may be shy about having it done again. Any dog will naturally be anxious about the whole process. If you introduce him, as a puppy, to paw-handling and the tools you will use, anxiety will be reduced and he will have a quick and successful pedicure. If you're nervous about trimming your dog's nails you can always take him to a professional groomer. After watching a professional carry out this procedure a few times, you will most probably be ready to give it a try yourself.

Toothbrushing

That Stink Means More than you Think

Have you ever fallen victim to the dreaded “dog breath” of the canine kingdom? Much like doggie ear odor, if you smell it once, you’ll never forget it. Brushing of a dog’s teeth should not be used simply as a remedy for halitosis, but as a preventative measure. By the time Fido’s breath is bad enough to make your flowers wilt, he’s probably already developed periodontal disease, which affects not only his dental health, but his other major body functions. When infection sets into the gums, Spot’s antibodies rush to the site, allowing other conditions throughout the body to exacerbate.

Daily toothbrushing really does deliver when it comes to maintaining your dog’s health. And, it’s relatively easy to get your dog to submit. Meat flavored toothpastes make it seem more like a treat than a chore.

First day - offer the dog a little bit of the toothpaste on your finger. If he likes it – great. If he doesn’t like it, passify him with a treat that he does love and buy a different flavor of toothpaste tomorrow.

Second day – apply a small amount of a toothpaste that he loves to your fingers and explore the inside of his mouth. Rub his front teeth and gums. His tongue will likely be going crazy, chasing your fingers and making it difficult to get to his teeth, but this is a great sign. It should tell you that he’s having fun with the flavor, and not stressing about the fact that someone is brushing his teeth.

Third day – use a toothbrush, finger tip brush, or dental sponge to rub the toothpaste onto the teeth and gums. Start with a few teeth at a time, and increase the number every day, until you’re brushing the exterior of every tooth every day. Concentrate on the outside of the teeth, especially at and under the gum line. Applying the toothpaste to the teeth’s surfaces is more important than a scrubbing action. The enzymes in the paste will work on the plaque without intense scrubbing.

Go ahead. Give kisses. Share biscuits. With poultry-clean breath, your dog will be as fresh as a spring morning. And you can rest, knowing that you’re completing an important step in the maintenance of his overall health.

Clipping

From Hurly Burly Curls to Short and Simple Merles

As with any quality job, the finished product is usually in direct proportion to the quality of the tools used. A superior, high-speed dog clipper is a must, especially for those dogs that have a heavy, or heavily matted, coat.

Nearly as important is the maintenance of those quality dog grooming tools. Before using your new clipper, oil the blade with a blade oil recommended by the manufacturer. General use products, like WD40 or petroleum jelly will leave you lamenting the loss of your new investment – don’t give into the temptation.

Clean your clipper’s blade after every cut. Can-of-air or a compressor hose works nicely for blowing dirt and hair from the crevices. Or, a stiff-bristled paint brush works, too. After cleaning the blade, oil it, wrap it in a cloth, and place it inside a plastic bag. This will prevent rust and corrosion of the blade. Either of these villains will warrant a new blade purchase – negating your home grooming money-saving efforts.

Clipper blades should be sharpened every few cuts by a professional, in order to keep your dog’s hairdo clean and cut to precision. You can find one in the yellow pages under “sharpening”. Attempting to sharpen the blade at home never ends well.

Always bathe and dry your dog before clipping. Dirt, powders, and foreign objects can destroy a clipper blade and compromise the quality of the finished do.

Blade cuts range in length from 1/125” to 5/8”. In other words, you can strip your dog bald or give him an all-over trim. You can experiment with different blades to create a unique look that will be next year’s rage, or keep your dog in uniform with a cut described by his breed standard. Skip tooth blades work well for a quick, coarse cut, and for the removal of a mass of hair or “unwelcome mats”. Full tooth blades offer a smoother, finished look. They cut more slowly, and are generally used on shorter hair, or as a finisher after the skip tooth blade. Blades are classified by numbers. The higher the number, the shorter the resulting haircut will be. For instance, a #9 will cut the hair to 1/16”, while a #4 will cut the hair to 3/8”.

Most breed standards dictate a standard clip, necessary for showing, and sometimes adhered to, well...just because it looks spiffy. For instance, your Irish Terrier’s standard calls for a #5 blade for the body and tail, and a #10 on the head, ears and throat. Your West Highland White Terrier’s standard begs a #3-3/4 or #4 and scissors all over, and a #10 or #15 for the tips of her ears. If you choose to adhere to your breed’s standard clip, consult the breed standard and purchase the blades necessary for that particular cut.

Your mixed breed or other dog for which standards are not of any importance is only subject to your taste and your veterinarian’s recommendations. For instance, sanitary spots, like the genital and anal areas, are best clipped with a #10 blade. A #15 blade works well for hair between foot pads. Matted fur responds well to a #5 - #7 blade, with #7 being best for the worst mats. Dense coats will require a minimum of a #7 blade, and legs and the tops of feet will need little more than a scissors cut.

As a standard, face, foot, genital, and anal fur should be kept short for optimum health and hygiene. And, bear in mind that shorter fur dries faster and doesn’t mat. Just a friendly hint.

Not every dog will need clipped. Short to medium-coated dogs, like Dalmations and Labradors require little or no clipping. While others, like the Shih-tzu or Silky Terrier can turn into unrecognizable bush boogies if neglected. Looking cute is great, but foremost, remember that an unkempt coat can lead to painful “unwelcome mats”, or worse.

Finding the Perfect Dogstyle

My barber displays a plaque on her mirror that says, “I’m a Beautician, not a Magician.” I can’t help but think that the same principle applies to our dogs’ hairstyles. You’re not going to be able to make your Rottweiler look like Rod Stewart, but you might be able to make your Terrier look like Tina Turner. Bows and beads don’t belong on a Golden Retriever, but will smarten the look of your Shih Tzu.

The number of dogstyles available is dizzying. For instance, a poodle’s traditional Lion Trim (the only clip allowed for showing) comes in four different varieties: The Puppy Clip, the Continental Clip, the Modified Continental Clip, and the English Saddle Clip. I would suggest that you research the standard clips available for your dog’s particular breed.

Here, I’ve listed a few of the most common dogstyles. The list is far from exhaustive. Your groomer or a good dog grooming book can guide you through a more comprehensive list of styles.

Show clips vary by breed and are generally the most intricate. If you plan on showing your dog under any of many organizations, his look will be subject to particular standards. Advise your groomer of any special requirements. An experienced, knowledgeable dog groomer will know exactly what you’re looking for.

The puppy clip is generally about 1½“ all over, but can be adjusted to your taste. Many pet owners find it practical and easy to manage. It allows for plenty of dog activity and prevents matting.

A utility or kennel clip is accomplished by using a #5 or #7 blade over most of the body for a resulting 1/16” to ½” coat. The face, head, and tail are hand- scissored.

For the fluffy look, a teddy bear clip is recommended. This completely scissored style is ½” all over.

Lamb clips are accomplished by cutting the midsection and neck to ¼” to 3/8”, while scissoring the head, legs, and tail. When finished, the midsection dons the shortest fur, and the legs sport the longest hair.

Hand stripping is a technique in which the groomer uses a stripping knife to remove dead hair from single-coated breeds, improving the look of their natural coat.

And finally, there’s the creative cut. For this one, use your imagination (or give your groomer liberty if you feel completely comfortable with his or her ability). Use colors, braids, gems, beads, shaved and scissored areas to punk out or primp up your dog.

Whether you choose to fashion your dog in a break-out style, or keep him in uniform so that his friends don’t pick on him, the choice is up to you. Keep his hygiene at the forefront of your mind, and the rest is only as limited as your imagination.

Dog Grooming - Get Schooled

Interested in turning your love of dog grooming into a career? Want to make over Mountain Dogs or beautify Bishons? The good news is that it’s more attainable than you may have imagined. And the most important job requirement? An extraordinary love for our four-legged friends, coupled with a desire to contribute to their hygiene, health, and happiness.

The first, and most simple, way to introduce yourself to dog grooming is to search out an apprenticeship. Visit the dog grooming facilities in your area and speak to the owner or manager about a job. In most states, you can do this at the tender age of 16, or even earlier with an Early Worker’s Permit.

You can earn a dog grooming certification or a degree online. A groomer’s certification will help you to attain an apprenticeship, while a diploma affords you the right to own and operate your own grooming shop. If you choose to surf the web and jump onto the virtual bandwagon, consider the limitations. Potential employers may not smile brightly upon a certification or diploma obtained in this manner, and you’re going to have a bit of trouble finding test subjects. This might, however, be a good option if you’re already employed as an apprentice at a grooming facility, and simply looking to earn your certification or diploma.

There are currently 52 state-licensed dog grooming schools in operation in the United States, offering instruction with live instructors and real dogs (as opposed to online courses). Each school offers programs that range in duration from 2 to 18 weeks with both written and practical exams, through which students are given the opportunity to earn the title of “National Certified Master Groomer”. If you’re hoping to own a business and oversee other groomers in the future, this particular certification will prove invaluable.

Your first job, without certification, in a groomer’s shop will likely be as a dog bather, and you will probably make $7 to $10 per hour. In the next step up, as assistant groomer, you can expect to make $10 to $15 per hour, and then $25 per hour as a master groomer.

Make Dog Grooming Great!

Whether you decide to employ a professional groomer, perform your dog’s grooming at home, or take the steps to become a profession groomer yourself, enjoy it. If you see grooming as a chore so will your dog. Make it fun for Fido, and you’re going to have fun, too.

To purchase your dog grooming supplies online please visit my store - Dog Grooming Supplies For Sale.

The http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Dog Health Care - Give Your Dog A Happy, Healthy & Pain Free Life

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 1 Jun 2009 00:42:00 -0700

Do you know how to spot potential health problems in your dog, treat common problems yourself and recognize when a health issue requires Veterinary care?

Our dogs rely heavily on us to look after their health issues. Caring for our dogs is a responsibility we all take on board when we bring a dog into our lives. But dog health care is not necessarily a subject we all have expertise in - I know I didn't when I got my first young puppy.

Over the years I've put together a health care program or strategy I follow to help manage my dog's health issues. The dog health care program I have outlined below is an ongoing process of maintenance which relies on careful observation, being proactive and is designed to prevent major health issues from arising. It also addresses how to effectively diagnose and treat health problems when they do arise - either yourself, or a Vet when necessary.

These Are The Steps Involved In The Dog Health Care Program I Follow To Safeguard My Dogs:

Daily observation and maintenance of my dogs.

Picking up on the early signs/symptoms of illness or injury.

Accurately diagnosing and treating common health problems when appropriate.

Quickly recognizing health issues that require Veterinary care.

The dog health care strategy I follow is an ongoing part of what I call "responsible dog ownership" - I feel that it helps to keep my dogs happy, healthy and free from unnecessary pain or stress.

What Can We Do To Keep Our Dogs In Peak
Condition & Out Of The Veterinary Office?

Dog Health Care Program - Things You Can Do Everyday To Manage Your Dog's Health

Responsible Dog Ownership - The Basics:

The first step in our dog health care program is to simply make our dogs feel comfortable and safe in our home environment. This requires you to always provide your dog with essentials such as a warm, draft free and comfortable dog bed, fresh water and a couple of chew toys. It's also important that we provide an area in our homes that is off limits to everyone else except for our dogs - a place where they can have a "time out" to relax in peace and quiet.

Another proactive and preventive health care measure you can take is to "puppy proof" your home and property. Basically this means that you make your home and property a secure area, free from any hazards that may be dangerous to your dog. You can read more about this subject here - How To Puppy Proof Your Home.

Dog Food Nutrition:

The dog food or nutrition you provide to your dog is the number one factor in determining the health, wellbeing and longevity they enjoy. The nutrition your dog receives affects every aspect of his/her life. The role nutrition plays in your dog's health and behavior habits cannot be overstated. How do you provide wholesome, nutritionally balanced meals to your dog? Read this article and free video for more dog food advice - What Is The Best Dog Food?.

Bathing & Grooming:

Regular bathing and thorough grooming is a crucial element to this dog health care program. A bath with a gently medicated soap has many health benefits to your dog. It assists in flea control, prevents numerous skin conditions, identifies ticks and mites plus it makes your dog look beautiful!

A good solid brushing every few days is extremely beneficial to your dog's health. It stimulates blood flow to the skin which helps to prevent eczema, hot spots and many skin related health problems. Of course it also keeps your dog's hair in peak condition and free from tangles or matting.

Regular Inspection / Handling:

Every few days I like to inspect my dogs all over by running my hands over them while closely observing them. You'll find that your dog actually looks forward to these "maintenance" sessions - I'm sure my Shih-Tzu Macy simply believes she is getting a massage!

What to look out for when inspecting your dog:

Check all over for cuts, lumps, bumps, hot spots or any tender areas. To fully understand what these symptoms mean and most importantly how to properly treat them you may need a dog health care resource like this one - The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health.
Take special notice of how your dog reacts when you run your hands over different areas - any wincing or flinching requires further attention.
Be sure to check your dog's teeth and gums. Every week or so I give my dog's teeth a clean with a moist towel or doggie toothbrush. Gum disease is a serious matter so pay extra attention to this area - any changes you notice to the gums should be investigated.

How To Brush Your Dog's Teeth
Check your dog's feet and nails. Make sure the pads under food are strong, clean and healthy. Look out for anything (like grass seeds) lodged in-between the toes. Also make it part of your dog's health care routine to keep the nails neat and tidy.
Ears also need to be checked for any build up of moisture or infection. Any smell coming from the ears is a telltale sign that all is not well.

Quick video explaining how to clean your dog's ears.
During these inspections or other times when you are observing your dog be sure to be on the look out for any changes in behavior. Your dog cannot talk to you and may even try to hide health problems from you, so it's up to you to observe him/her closely for any signs of discomfort.
Some early signs or symptoms which may point to a potential health problem could be vomiting, lack of energy, shaking, diarrhea, drinking more water than usual or lameness. To properly diagnose and deal with these early symptoms you may need a good resource to guide you such as The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health. One of the most valuable topics covered in this health guide is the clear step-by-step explanation of how to thoroughly examine your dog from tip-to-tip.
The real benefit of continually observing and examining your dog is that you will pick up on potential health problems before they escalate into something more serious. The earlier you identify any potential health problems the less your dog will experience unnecessary pain and the easier the problem will be to remedy.
During these regular examination sessions you can also administer any medication that your dog may require. It's worth learning how to give your dog tablets the quick and easy way.

Exercise:

Exercise is an absolutely essential ingredient in any dog health care program. Apart from being a whole lot of fun, exercise provides a great outlet for all of your dog's energy. Exercise keeps your dog in good physical shape and goes a long way to prevent obesity. Canine obesity is slow and painful death sentence for dogs. It greatly increases the risk of many dog health problems such as arthritis, heart disease and diabetes.

Exercise can be any number of fun activities such as long walks on leash, a trip to the beach, a game of fetch or anything else you can think of. There's no substitute for exercise. I like to play games that stimulate my dog's natural instincts and drives such as "hide n' seek" and throwing the ball at the park - they love it.

Training:

What does obedience training have to do with your dog's health I hear you ask? The answer is plenty. A trained dog who you have under voice control is in a much safer position than an untrained dog. A trained dog can be included in all family outings and activities which has got to be a good thing for their health. Plus training your dog provides unmatched physical and mental stimulation to your dog - it gets them thinking, moving and having fun. Clicker training is my favorite way to shape the behavior of my own dogs.

First Aid:

It's one thing to recognize a potential health problem but what do you do when your dog is actually injured or sick? For common health problems such as nicks, licking problems and minor eye irritations you need to be able to quickly and confidently apply some natural home remedies. You can learn how to diagnose and treat many common dog health problems in this health care guide - The Ultimate Guide To Dog Health. This will save you and your dog many unnecessary visits to the Vet and will save you money in the process. Being able to administer first aid to your dog (and others) is a great skill to have in your bag of tricks.

Just as important as recognizing and treating minor health problems is being able to quickly identify those symptoms that need to be brought to the attention of your Veterinarian.

Health Issues For Your Veterinarian To Address

We have to be honest with ourselves, we can't do everything for our dogs - some dog health issues must be addressed by qualified and experienced professionals. This is where your Vet steps in. Your Veterinarian is a vital part of your dog's health care program. Having a good Vet in your corner, one who you know and trust is a valuable asset and is very reassuring. What dog health issues should your Vet help you with?

Puppy Shots / Vaccinations:

Puppy shots or vaccinations protect your dog from many diseases such as parvovirus, hepatitis, canine distemper and rabies. The diseases you need to guard against differ depending on where you live so having a reputable Vet to advise you is invaluable.

My Vet recommends a full course of puppy shots up to 1 year of age and then a booster every 3 years - some Vets suggest an annual booster. Don't take your young dog out and about in the community before he/she is safely protected from disease - this is usually about four months of age, but once again ask your Vet.

Spay / Castrate:

Please neuter your dog - we have too many dogs as it is, don't add to the problem. By neutering your dog you will also help to prevent many serious health problems from arising later on in your dog's life. If you dog is pregnant read this article - Dog Pregnancy.

Flea Control / Worming:

Controlling fleas and worms is one of the biggest health issues we have to face as dog owners. That's why I like to put my trust in a qualified Vet when dealing with the prevention and treatment of these harmful parasites. Your Vet will recommend a suitable flea control and worming (heartworms, tapeworms, roundworms..) schedule - then it's up to you to stick with it. You will probably need to administer monthly worming tablets to your dog and maybe other medication - it's no big deal and it's more than worthwhile.

Also keep in mind that it's not only your dog who needs to be treated for the fleas. You may need a flea management program which covers your entire home, including your dog's bedding and the carpets.

Annual Inspection:

As part of your dog health care program it's a good idea to schedule an annual Vet inspection or "wellness test". Your Vet will conduct a series of tests for this purpose - it's a great proactive and preventive health measure. A good Vet will be on the lookout for any irregularities in the test results and will also check your dog for any sign of breed specific health problems.

Emergency!

In the unfortunate case of serious injury or illness you will need a Vet who you trust and can rely on to save your dog's life. It helps if the Vet is familiar with your dog. When you are first choosing your Veterinarian consider one who is open long hours and has the ability to perform emergency surgery should the need arise. If it gets to this stage hopefully you will have suitable dog insurance in place to ease the financial strain - The Truth About Dog Health Insurance.

Dogs Time

Dog Training Videos & DVD's Which One Is Right For You?

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 1 Jun 2009 00:20:00 -0700

Watching online dog training videos or DVD's is a fantastic way to learn how to properly train your dog.

The benefits of watching dog training videos and DVD's rather than reading or going to obedience training classes are many:

You get to clearly see and most importantly hear how professional dog trainers operate in real life situations with real dogs.
Dog obedience training classes are a very effective way to train your dog but they are expensive and can be difficult to get to.
You can start your training right now on your computer - these dog training videos are all viewable on your computer screen. No waiting for books or postage.

I've reviewed 6 of the best online dog training video & DVD courses below on this page. Please read my reviews to discover exactly what each of these dog training courses offer - and which one (if any) is best suited to your personal situation.

After studying and assessing all 6 dog training video and DVD packages I have reached an informed recommendation below.

1. Secrets To Dog Training Premium Dog Training Course

$99.95 (It is a massive resource of dog training information) by Daniel Stevens, Professional Dog Trainer.

SitStayFetch Premium is a comprehensive and professional dog ownership and training package. SitStayFetch covers lots of the big picture dog ownership issues plus it details many specific dog training issues. SitStayFetch is an excellent product (by far the best of its kind), the videos are insightful and the rest of the package is all you will need to properly care for and train your dog.

It is easy to purchase and download to your computer right now - no waiting, you watch the dog training video lessons on your computer screen. The overwhelming focus of the SitStayFetch dog training package is on preventing and solving problem behaviors in your dog - and how to build and strengthen a close bond with your dog. The many free bonuses that come with the SitStayFetch Premium package contain some excellent responsible dog ownership information.

What Do You Get In The SitStayFetch Premium package?

Dog Training Video Files - 6 Comprehensive Online Dog Training DVD's

Video 1: Alpha Dog Training, by professional dog trainer Brian Heward - 59 minutes.

Discusses in detail the alpha dog concept and why it is such a crucial factor in determining the relationship you will share with your dog. This video provides a great overview of how to set up the right type of relationship with your dog - for the benefit of you both. It covers heaps of day to day living situations and also how the pack instincts of your dog affect his/her behavior. Some of the topics covered in Video 1:

What is an alpha dog, and what makes a dog become the alpha?
Why you must become the alpha dog in your dog's mind.
What you must do to become the alpha - and stay there.
How you should control your dog's environment and speak to him/her in a language they will understand.
How to successfully incorporate the "5 minute rule" and "gesture eating" into your daily schedule.
Why you should always avoid conflict with your dog - it's much more effective to use your brain instead.

Video 2: How To Stop Your Dog's Barking Problems - 35 minutes.

Barking is one of the biggest behavior problems that dog lovers are confronted with. This video addresses the many forms of problem barking in great detail.

What the different types of barking are and what causes a dog to bark excessively.
More about using alpha dog training to control your dog's barking problem.
Usable training techniques you can implement immediately to stop your dog from barking.
Are electronic barking collars a viable option?
Learn how to stop your dog from barking when you are not home, in the car, when the doorbell rings or at other dogs.

Video 3: Stop Your Dog's Barking Problems - 29 minutes.

More about how to treat your dog's barking problems. The key is to talk to your dog in a language they will understand and respond to.

How to deal with aggressive barking.
What you must do when handling a dog who has on leash aggression.
A great tip you can use to stop your dog from barking when in the car.

Video 4: How To Stop Your Dog's Biting & Chewing Problems, by Susan Morton - 55 minutes.

Excellent online DVD which covers all of the mouthing, nipping, play biting, snapping and aggressive biting issues. Includes real life case studies which is good vision to see.

Why you and everybody who comes into contact with your dog must be consistent in your training methods.
The importance of your puppy's socialization to all people, animals and the environment.
Should you desex your dog?
The best way to deal with a teething puppy.
The chew toys and food you should provide to your dog?
Dealing with obsessive behaviors, canine possession aggression and play biting.
How to respond if your dog growls at you.

Video 5: How To Stop Your Dog's Aggression, with Brian & Susan - 42 minutes.

Comprehensive online dog training video that discusses the different types of canine aggression and the various causes. These tips are long-term lifestyle changes and not a quick fix.

How to prevent aggression problems - 4 rules you should follow.
How to deal with territorial aggression, fear aggresssion and attention seeking behavior.
What to do if you have dogs in your household that fight with each other (sibling rivalry).
How to properly socialize your dog in order to prevent dog to dog aggression.
Should you use a muzzle?
Real life case studies you can learn from - including dog park etiquette.

Video 6: In Field Training - Real Life Case Studies Of Dog Training In Action - 46 minutes.

Live footage of professional dog training sessions in action. Provides a great insight into how professionals deal with specific issues - and how you can do this for yourself.

Pulling on leash: You can see with your own eyes how to prevent your dog from pulling on the leash. Includes the "random walking technique" which helps your dog to focus on you rather than on dragging you down the street.
Food bowl aggression or resource guarding: Very comprehensive video footage of treating a dog who has food bowl aggression. Includes step-by-step instruction which will set your dog up to succeed. Discusses the importance of teaching your dog in a language they will understand and the value of a technique called "gesture eating".
Aggression towards children & visitors: Is this a dominance issue or something else? Discusses the impact of playing too roughly with your dog and more great information on how to become the alpha.

Secrets To Dog Training Online Video

As part of the SitStayFetch premium upgrade package you also receive the online video called "Secrets To Dog Training". This is a great bonus which complements the other 6 dog training videos perfectly. What is covered in "Secrets To Dog Training"?

When Accidents Happen:

The importance of catching your dog in the act and rewarding successful eliminations.
Why punishment does not work.

The Alpha Dog:

Dogs are pack animals which means that they look to a leader or alpha dog for guidance.
Learn 11 easy to apply dog training techniques to establish and reinforce your authority.
Keep your dog at the right place in the family hierarchy.

Crate Training Your Dog

Excellent crate training information which will help to house train your puppy and also keep him/her safe.
Outlines 11 tips to keep in mind when using a crate including - how to choose a crate, using the dog crate properly and how to make the crate comfortable.

The Direct Method Of House Training

Discusses the best way to house train puppies and how to deal with potty mistakes.

Leash Training Your Puppy Or Older Dog

Learn how to train your dog to walk on a loose leash.
Discover why positive reinforcement is crucial to your training success.

The Paper Training Method Of House Training Your Puppy

Learn how to paper train your puppy step-by-step. Good vision detailing exactly how to paper train your puppy the right way.

House Training Or Re-House Training Tips & Techniques

11 great tips to follow when formulating your puppy house training schedule. Information includes feeding times, how to restrict your dog's movement, using the same potty place everytime and your vocal support.

The Top Dog Maintenance Program

Good information for people who live in a multi dog household. Discusses the importance of recognizing and respecting which one of your dog's is the dominant dog.

Apart From The Videos What Else Do You Get With The SitStayFetch Premium Upgrade?

SitStayFetch - Dog Training To Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problems

This is the famous best selling dog training ebook written by professional dog trainer Daniel Stevens. SitStayFetch is a professional, comprehensive and complete dog training resource of 186 pages.

SitStayFetch covers many of the topics related to responsible dog ownership. It discusses in detail how to understand your dog, how to improve the wellbeing of your dog, solving problem behaviors and teaching obedience training commands and tricks. Note: You also receive the SitStayFetch book as an audio download if you prefer to listen to all the dog training tips instead of reading them.

A Quick Guide To Dog Aggression:

28 page dog training ebook which discusses the various types of dog aggression. This ebook also outlines how to prevent aggressive behavior before it arises and how to treat established aggression problems. You'll also find out which dog breeds are more prone to aggression problems.

The Dog Grooming Book:

16 pages of dog grooming and health care information. Learn the proper techniques to keep your dog's teeth and gums healthy, how to clip your dog's nails and how to give him/her a trim. Also covers the grooming equipment you will need to do the job properly.

The Security Dog Training Book:

14 pages of protection or guard dog information. Learn how to pick the right breed for this type of job, how to select the right puppy from a litter and how to precondition your dog.

All The Latest House Training Methods & Tricks:

12 pages of step-by-step and simple to follow instructions regarding the puppy house training process. Learn about the direct method and the paper method of housebreaking and also how to correct house training problems.

Secrets To Becoming The Alpha Dog:

12 pages of subtle tips you can put in place everyday to reinforce your position as your dog's leader. Discusses the importance of working with your dog's natural instincts.

The Ultimate House Training Guide:

This is a free SitStayFetch members bonus written by Martin Olliver. This bonus is an absolute gem - the ultimate house training guide is the most complete and comprehensive guide I have ever seen on this important topic. It is 126 pages of brilliant information and pictures which addresses all of your house training questions and problems. Look out for the 10 house training rules that you must follow in order to quickly and successfully house train your puppy. This book alone is worth the price of the SitStayFetch package.

180 Gourmet Recipes For Your Dog:

202 pages of healthy recipes written by John Stanley. With all the recent concern over the dog food recalls of 2007 many dog lovers are choosing to prepare fresh wholesome homemade meals for their dogs. This is the perfect guide to follow in order to prepare healthy well balanced dog food meals and also to determine which foods you must avoid. This is another great book.

Top 20 Consultations by Daniel Stevens:

Professional dog trainer Daniel Stevens receives a ton of questions from dog owners everyday. This is Daniel's list of the top 20 questions he receives - topics include barking, digging, house training, aggression, food stealing and whining.

SitStayFetch Pro - Software Download

This is an impressive piece of software that you can easily download to your computer. SitStayFetch Pro is particularly useful for multiple dog households or for the organized dog owner. This software helps to keep track of all the important details and dates in your dog's life. You'll have important information such as your dog's registration details, date of birth, medical history, Vet appointments, worming dates and training classes at your finger tips.

Free Email Consultation With Daniel Stevens (value $120)

If you have a specific dog related question that you are struggling to solve by yourself you can email Daniel and his team for some professional help. This is a great bonus which I would encourage every SitStayFetch Premium customer to utilize.

My Conclusion On SitStayFetch Premium

For sheer quantity and quality of dog care and training advice you cannot go past SitStayFetch Premium - this package blows all of its competitors away. The SitStayFetch package is not a magic pill for all of your dog problems - but if you apply what you see, hear and learn I'm sure you will achieve great results with your dog.

Visit the SitStayFetch website - remember that the SitStayFetch Premium upgrade is what you will need to purchase in order to receive the online dog training videos and all the other great bonuses.

2. Puppy Training & Dog Training Online Video's by Dove Cresswell

$39 - Dog training online is a series of 7 clear and straight forward video lessons put together by professional Hollywood dog trainer, Dove Cresswell. I believe that Dove's video training lessons are best suited to new puppy owners. The great thing about Dove's course "Puppy Training & Dog Training Online" is that you can see and hear exactly how to train your dog - you simply copy what Dove demonstrates on the videos.

What Do You Get In Dove's Dog Training Online Video Package?

The package is made up of 7 complete dog training dvd lessons which you can watch over and over on your computer screen. The 7 video lessons are clear, easy to follow and another benefit is that there are no big ebooks that need to be printed out. You also receive 8 free bonus audio lessons when you purchase Dove's dog training resource.

Video 1: Puppy House Training / Potty Training

*This first video includes a separate section for house training toy dog breeds.

Dove explains how to set up a potty training schedule.
Discusses the delicate subject of dealing with potty training "accidents".
Learn how to use your praise and positive reinforcement to speed up the puppy house training process.
Dove advocates the use of a dog crate when housebreaking your dogs.

Video 2: Crate Training

Video 2 concentrates on using the dog crate for tasks other than house training.

Learn how to choose the right type and sized dog crate.
Why it is crucial that you don't let your dog form an association between his/her crate and something negative happening.
Proper use of a dog crate makes your puppy safe and also protects your house and belongings.
Dove discusses how to use your crate to prevent many common behavior problems.

Video 3: Basic Dog Obedience

This dog training video focusses on effective and positive obedience training methods.

Discusses the importance of using your voice and body language in the training process.
Learn when to start your dog training and how long the sessions should go for.
Learn how to teach your dog to Sit, Stay and get into the Down position.
Set your obedience training sessions up so your dog thinks his/her way through situations rather than by you physically forcing him.
Consistency is the key to your obedience training sessions.

Video 4: Walking Politely On A Loose Leash - The Informal Heel

Dog training video 4 shows you how to teach your puppy to pay attention to you while on leash.
Also learn what training tools you should and should not use when training your puppy to walk on a leash.
Simple but effective leash training techniques.

Video 5: The Recall

Train your dog to respect your "come" or recall command - first time every time.

Discover the training tools you will need when teaching the recall. This may include a long line.
Dove offers some great tips in this online DVD and suggests some problem solving strategies.

Video 6: Good Puppy & Dog Manners

This is one video most of us dog owners will need to view at some time. It offers suggestions on how to stop unacceptable behaviors such as jumping up, barking and chewing.

Shows you the "off", "leave it" and "Quiet" obedience training commands.

Video 7: Special Dog Tricks

Teaching your puppy some dog tricks is a great way to strengthen the human-dog bond that you will enjoy with your dog.

Dove explains why it is crucial that you keep your dog trick training sessions fun, positive and free from corrections.
See Dove teach the "Shake-a-Paw", "Wave", "Rollover" and "Speak" dog tricks.

What Else Do You Get In Dove's Puppy Training & Dog Training Online Video Package?

Dove has put together 8 free bonuses that are included with the 7 video lessons outlined above.

Free Email Consultation With Dove Cresswell:

This is a very valuable bonus. Any dog training related question that you have can be asked directly to Dove. Simply email your question through to her with your receipt number and she will reply with your answer. I'd advise everyone who purchases Dove's dog training course to take advantage of this bonus.

Teaching Your Dog To Fetch:

This audio lesson explains how to teach your dog to play fetch the right way. This means that your dog will bring the ball straight back to you every time.

Train Your Dog To Play Soccer:

This audio lesson teaches you how to train your dog to play soccer with you - this is one of the most enjoyable games you and your dog can play together.

Teach Your Dog To Play Hide 'n Seek:

Another fun game you can play with your energetic little beast. The "Find it" command is a great tool to use when you are leaving your dog at home.

Information On Dog Sports:

Learn about some of the other dog sports such as Agility, Fly Ball and Rally Obedience.

Choosing The Right Toys For Your Dog:

Dove explains which toys are safe and ones that will keep your dog busy while you are away from home. Kong toys are a good choice - with frozen peanut butter stuffed inside.

Earning Your Dog's Respect:

Dove explains how you must reinforce your position as the leader of your dog. She outlines a few simple exercises you can implement for this purpose.

Choosing The Right Dog Food & Treats:

Dog food nutrition is a very important subject. Dove outlines exactly what to look for when choosing your dog's kibble (and what to avoid).

My Conclusion On Dove's Online Dog Training DVD Course

Good dog training course which is straight forward, clear and easy to follow - Dove explains the lessons very well. This product covers the basic training issues well and the main benefit is that you get to hear the right way to use your voice in training situations. There is no unnecessary filler included in Dove's course which is a nice change from similar training programs. As I mentioned earlier, I believe Dove's training videos are probably best suited to people with a young puppy.

Go to Dove's Puppy Training & Dog Training Online Videos.

3. Instant Dog Training Videos

By Professional Dog Trainer Debbie Jeane - $47

Another good dog training video course. The lessons focus on solving problem behavior in your dogs - they are well thought out and easy to follow. Debbie talks you through each lesson and does provide some footage of her techniques in real life situations with her dogs.

This package is a series of 10 online dog training DVD's with a written transcript to back up each lesson.

Video 1: Housebreaking Your Dog

Debbie stresses the need for consistency in your potty training and the correct use of rewards.
Learn how to take your puppy outside to his/her potty spot.
Discusses how to properly use a dog crate in the puppy housebreaking process.
Also shows you how to deal with potty accidents and what you must avoid doing.

Video 2: Jumping Up On People

Shows you exactly how to stop your dog from jumping up on people.
Outlines how to teach your dog the correct way to greet people.
Ignoring the jumping up behavior is one technique that works well - the only time your dog receives attention from you is when he/she has 4 feet firmly planted on the ground.

Video 3: Dog Barks Too Much

Debbie explains which dog breeds may be more susceptible to barking problems.
Demonstrates some techniques you can apply to put an end to excessive barking problems.
Explains how barking is a "self rewarding behavior" to your dog - this can make it a difficult habit to break.
Train your dog to bark on command.

Video 4: Pulling On Leash

Debbie explains why you must stop the tug of war.
Pulling on the leash is another self rewarding behavior to your dog - you must put a stop to it.
Most importantly you need to ensure that you don't inadvertently reward your dog's pulling behavior.

Video 5: Dog Not Coming When Called

Discover how to make coming to you a positive thing to your dog everytime.
Learn how to make yourself the center of the universe in your dog's mind.
Debbie outlines some very clever tips in this video.

Video 6: Nipping & Biting Problems

Learn how to educate your dog in regard to bite inhibition.
Discover how to prevent or put a stop to puppy mouthing.
Debbie shows you how to teach the "out" obedience training command - this is a good one.

Video 7: Stop Your Dog From Running Away

Learn how to keep your dog safely at home in his/her yard.
Discover how to properly teach the "recall" obedience training command.

Video 8: Dog Chewing On Things

Discusses some training techniques you can apply to stop your dog from chewing on your items.
Provide some good chew toys like Nylabones and Kongs.
Keep your personal household items out of your dog's reach.

Video 9: Problems With Digging

Debbie discusses why boredom is the number 1 reason for your dog's digging problems.
One technique is to put some feces in the problem area and also provide a digging spot.

Video 10: Nervous Or Shy Dogs

This can be an inherited trait which is hard to overcome.
Learn how to approach and deal with a nervous puppy or older dog.

My Conclusion On The Instant Dog Training Videos Course

Good dog training video lessons - Debbie has a straight forward, no-nonsense style. She obviously has great confidence in her techniques and doesn't feel the need to complicate the training process. This course would best suit dog owners who have a dog that is displaying one or more of the behavior problems covered in the 10 online DVD lessons.

Go to Debbie's Instant Dog Training Videos.

4. Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets

By Kevin Lynch - $47

Very comprehensive dog training course. Focusses heavily on the alpha dog principles. This training package consists of 9 downloadable video lessons and a great selection of dog training ebooks. I feel that the value in Puppy 'n Dog Training Secrets is in the bonus ebooks - there are some real gems included.

Instinct Vs Man Dog Training DVD's

The 9 video lessons are an animation or cartoon like production with audio over the top. You won't see any real live dogs in these videos.

Video 1: Introduction

Learn how to think like your dog and communicate to him/her in a language he will understand.
Video 1 is all about building a healthy and productive relationship with your dog.
Stresses the importance of working with your dog's natural instincts.

Video 2: General Interaction

There is a strong emphasis on becoming and staying the alpha dog in your human-dog relationship. You must make it clear that you are the boss or pack leader.
Learn some training steps and exercises which will set you up as the dominant one in your human-dog relationship.
Always respect that your dog is a pack animal.

Video 3: Playtime

Learn why you should always initiate playtime - not the other way around.
Warns against playing tug-of-war games (alpha dog or dominance issue).
Learn how to teach your dog how to play fetch.

Video 4: Discipline

Discover the right way and the wrong way to discipline your dog.
The tone of your voice is a crucial ingredient in the dog training process.
You'll find out that dogs learn through association.
Learn why you should never use physical force to discipline your puppy.

Video 5: Food & Eating

Learn why food is such a good motivator to your dog.
Discusses why you should control your dog's feeding time and why you should always eat before your dog.
Learn how to use tasty treats in your dog training sessions.

Video 6: Sleeping

Learn that your dog sleeps most of the day when you are out.
Discover why exercise is important for your dog's sleep cycle.

Video 7: Territory

Discusses urinating to mark territory and why it is so important to your dog.
Learn about food aggression and why they will most likely test you at some stage.
Dogs learn heaps from the scent of urine - it is a source of pride to them.

Video 8: Breed Behavior

Researching your breed of choice is a crucial long term decision. Every breed has there own unique traits and characteristics.
Some breeds are more prone to certain problem behavior such as barking, digging and chewing.
Always try to work with your dog's natural instincts.

Video 9: Obedience Training

Learn all the ins and outs of using hand signals in your training sessions.
Discover the right way to teach the "sit" command using positive reinforcement training methods.
Teach "Down", "Stay" and "Come" using the lure and reward training technique.
This video covers heaps of obedience training topics but does not go into great detail.

What Else Comes In The Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets Video Package?

There is some great information and value contained in these bonuses - in my opinion more value than the online dog training video presentation.

Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets - The Main Book by Kevin Lynch

Good dog ownership manual - plenty of useful responsible dog ownership information. Covers a wide range of topics including how your dog thinks, when you should start training, house and crate training and many obedience training commands. 104 pages of valuable dog training information and tips.

House Training Made Easy

Good little quick reference guide for puppy house training issues. It is a 4 page ebook which shows you the right way to set up your dog's living area, how to choose a potty area and when you should give praise to your puppy.

10 Cool Tricks You See In The Movies

This ebook contains 10 fun and easy tricks to teach your dog. Learn how to train the "wave", "speak" and "play dead" dog tricks. Tricks are explained but not in great detail.

Dogs And All About Them

This is a nice bonus. This ebook is 280 pages long and was written by Robert Leighton. It includes a good chapter about the history of dogs and also features detailed descriptions of most purebreed dogs (dalmations, golden retrievers, beagles etc..). Plus you'll find some great explanations and treatment advice for many common dog ailments.

Secrets To A Healthy & Happy Pooch

This is the best ebook in the Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets package. It is 91 pages of dog nutrition and general health care advice. You'll learn heaps about puppy selection, skeletal and skin health, dental advice, tips on first aid for your dog and an excellent dog food analysis. All dog owners will learn something from reading this great book.

101 Ways To Spoil Your Dog For Under $10

Another valuable ebook written by Kevin Lynch (48 pages). It outlines some great activities you and your dog can do together to strengthen the relationship you share. Your dog will love it if you implement some of these cheap (or even free) tips.

180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Recipes

Written by Kevin Lynch. This is 199 pages chock full of tasty dog food recipes. This book is one of the best tools I have seen for dog lovers who choose to prepare wholesome homemade dog food. You will be able to feed you dog forever using this great resource.

The Complete Open Obedience Course

96 pages written by Blanche Saunders. Another excellent ebook for more advanced obedience training commands such as heeling, drop on recall, take it, dumbbell work and hurdle work. Great information for obedience training enthusiasts.

20 Natural And Healthy Recipes

Some more holistic and natural dog food recipes written by Kevin Lynch. Contains some especially good kibble recipes.

My Conclusion On The Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets Package

Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets is a good dog ownership resource which is suitable for all dog owners. As I mentioned earlier I feel that the value in this package is in the ebooks. This dog training course is suitable for all dog owners whether you have a young puppy or an older dog who you believe could use some training!

Go to the Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets website for more information.

5. Dogsology Instant Expert Dog Training Video Series

$48 - From Jessica Baker

Please note that this package is very similar to the Puppy 'N Dog Training Package which I have reviewed above.

The 9 online dog training videos or DVD's in this Dogsology package are exactly the same as the ones in the Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets package. They are a cartoon like animation with an audio voice over. Please read the above review for my thoughts on the online dog training DVD's.

The Dog Lovers Dream Reference Book

This is the same book titled "Secrets To A Healthy & Happy Pooch" which I discussed in the Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets review above. Good ebook covering nutrition and basic health care.

Fun Activities With Your Dog

Some good fun activities to help you bond with your dog. Learn about fly ball, herding, agility and hiking.

The Complete Dog Owners Guide

Covers all the basic dog ownership and training information - doesn't go into much detail.

180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Recipes

Excellent ebook which is the same as the book with the same name in Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets.

More Than 100 Ways To Pamper Your Dog

Same as the ebook in Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets - has some good tips in it.

20 Healthy & Natural Dog Recipes

Once again this is the same ebook as the Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets one. Some excellent healthy dog food recipes.

My Conclusion On The Dogsology Dog Training Course

Dogsology Instant Expert Dog Training Video Series is a decent package but Puppy 'N Dog Training Secrets is superior and therefore better value for money.

Go to the Dogsology Instant Expert Dog Training Series website.

6. Karen Pryor's Clicker Training Online Dog Training DVD's

Online video dog training lessons - $4.99

Anyone interested in the all-positive non violent method of clicker training (like I am) will love these onling dog training DVD's. Karen offers a great range of dog training vision - why not learn from the best?

Clicker training is a great way to solve problem behaviors and shape new behaviors in any dog. In my opinion using a clicker is the most effective way to communicate with your dog. Visit Karen Pryor's clickertraining.com for all of your clicker training supplies, ebooks and videos. I personally love this site and I am a big fan of clicker dog training.

Specific Dog Training Video Lessons

Puppy training.
Loose Leash Walking.
Come When Called.
Lie Down.
Lots Of Cool Dog Tricks - crawl, play dead, roll over, wave and retrieve.
Ring The Bell For Potty Time.

Check out Karen Pryor's ClickerTraining Products.

The Best Dog Training Books - Impartial Reviews

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Mon, 1 Jun 2009 00:13:00 -0700

Which dog training books actually deliver what they promise and produce results?

The aim of this website is to separate the dog training books that really work from the ones that just don't cut it. My website is designed for dog lovers like me who are serious about forming a strong bond with their dog's through proper, humane training methods.

Those of us who choose to train our dogs at home rely heavily on intelligent dog training tools to help guide us through the various stages of training. For this reason, I have studied many of the popular training systems and put them to the test with my own dogs. I have identified three dog training books that proved to be superior to all the rest.

Go straight to my detailed reviews of the best dog training books I have studied.

Dog Training Book Reviews

Each of these dog training systems provide the knowledge and tools required to successfully train your puppies or older dogs at home. To find out exactly what these books contain please read my detailed and thorough reviews.

Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets Of Becoming A Supertrainer

Secrets To Dog Training - Dog Training To Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problems!

Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer

What Criteria Did I Use To Assess These Dog Training Books?

I have performed a comprehensive study of these books and each of the three I recommend pass the following criteria with flying colors. Many of the books I looked at fell well short of these standards.

Firstly, they must promote humane dog training methods and be based on positive reinforcement, encouragement and repetition.
Must cover in detail the three main stages of dog training. Getting your puppy off to a good start in life, obedience training and solving problem behavior.
The techniques outlined in the books has to actually work. I've tested the information on my own dog's and have seen the results. A fancy looking book is no use to us if the information doesn't produce the type of results we seek.
I have contacted the authors of the three books I review here to ask questions. Each of these authors has passed my test by providing a more than satisfactory response to my query, and in a timely manner.
The books must be available to download immediately, at any time. The three dog training books I found to be a cut above the rest are all electronic books or ebooks.
The authors must be prepared to back their products up with a 100% money back satisfaction guarantee. If they're not confident enough in the quality of their work to offer such a guarantee, then I'm not confident enough to buy it in the first place.
Must have a long list of genuine happy customers who have been willing to put their name and details down in a testimonial.

You can be confident in the information contained in these three dog training books. If you correctly apply the training techniques with consistency and repetition they will work. Read my reviews then judge for yourself which one would best suit you and your dog.

Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets Of Becoming A Supertrainer

Secrets To Dog Training - Dog Training To Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problems!

Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer

Update For 2009!

A fantastic new dog training ebook has just hit the market. The ebook titled "Clickertraining - The 4 Secrets To Becoming A Supertrainer" is a brilliant dog training manual. It's a serious dog training tool for those who demand results.

This new book focuses on positive, reward based training methods - no harsh corrections or intimidation is used. If you're looking for a cutting edge and highly effective way to train your dog I urge you to check this new dog training download out now.

For a limited time the professional dog trainers who put this book together are throwing in 4 bonus online videos when you purchase Clickertraining - The 4 Secrets To Becoming A Supertrainer.

NOTE: This is currently my favorite dog training ebook - I have used it with great success with my Shih-Tzu "Macy". In my experience all dogs thrive on clicker training methods.

Dog Training Books - Other Resources

Some of my other favorite dog training book authors are - Karen Pryor, Ian Dunbar, Jean Donaldson, Morgan Spector, Pam Reid and Patricia B McConnell.

If you are reading a book with one of the above author's names written on the front cover, you can be confident that you are learning from the best.

If you prefer to learn your dog training techniques by watching online video rather than reading, please visit Dog Training Video / DVD Reviews.

You may also be interested in preparing some tasty dog biscuit recipes for your precious pooch.

Dogs Time

Puppy Crate Training - Step By Step Instruction

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 22:11:00 -0700

Puppy crate training is a fantastic method of managing the safety and well-being of young puppies. When used properly the crate is an invaluable tool for establishing good habits in your puppies and also for preventing problem behaviors before they arise.

In spite of what you may think or have read about puppy crate training the truth is that we crate train our puppies for their benefit - that's why we do it. Secondary to that is the fact that using a crate also benefits us and our furniture, shoes, carpet, cushions etc...

Puppy Crate Training - Why Do We Do It?

Over time the crate will become your puppy's own private area which they will grow to love and feel secure in. You will come to rely on your crate just like I do in many day to day activities including:

One of the first and most important uses of the crate is in the puppy housebreaking process. Crate training is the best way to quickly teach your puppy to eliminate (go to the toilet) outside. You can read my detailed step by step system here - puppy house training.
Crating our puppies teaches them to chew on the toys we provide to them and prevents them from chewing on the things we don't want them to chew on (shoes, furniture, curtains etc.). This is the key to establishing good habits in our dogs and preventing destructive habits which can be difficult to rectify.
When your young puppy is in his/her crate he is safe from any number of dangerous household items. Unfortunately many puppies are severely injured and killed every year as a result of chewing wires, ingesting poisons or eating foreign objects.
Separation anxiety is a huge problem for an increasingly large percentage of dogs. Proper use of the crate can help reduce the chance of your puppy developing separation anxiety. The crate becomes a place where your dog is calm, out of trouble and accustomed to being alone. I should add here that if you are away from home all day every day is a puppy really suitable for someone with your lifestyle anyway?
Never Ever Use Your Crate As A Tool For Punishment!
If you have friends or visitors of any kind coming and going from your home the crate is the perfect place to keep your puppy safely confined for a while.
Because most crates are lightweight and portable you can move them from room to room so your puppy can be close by you all day long!
Many crates are suitable for putting into your car which makes your puppy's traveling experience safer and often less stressful.
When your puppy grows to love his crate it makes trips and stays at places such as your Vet and Dog Groomers a more bearable experience.
When puppy crate training is applied correctly your puppy cannot get into any mischief which significantly reduces any need to discipline her. This makes for a far better environment in which to live (for dog and owner).
If you plan to do any activities like competitive obedience training, fly-ball or agility training you will find your crate is a great place to confine your dog in between training sessions and competition. Put it in a nice cool spot in the shade. If you plan to give your dog some obedience training I recommend this comprehensive do it yourself dog training course - SitStayFetch Premium.

Selecting A Crate For Your Puppy

The crates basically come in two general styles - durable plastic and an all wire mesh type, which is often collapsible. It's really a personal choice which style of crate you go for but the most important thing is that you buy one that is the appropriate size for your dog. Get a crate that will be large enough for your fully grown puppy and partition it off until he grows into it.

I like the plastic Vari Kennel Crate (the one on the right) style because they are lightweight, tough, can be carted all around the place and they are very easy to clean.

If you plan to purchase your crate online I've always found dog.com to be very good. They have great specials, fast shipping and an enormous range of quality dog crates - click on the crates below to learn more and compare crates.

Apart From The Dog What Else Goes In The Crate?

Bedding - choose a nice comfortable dog bed that can't be chewed up and swallowed by your feisty little pup. Be sure to choose bedding suited to your climate.
Chew toys - get a couple of good chew toys that you can stuff and even freeze. This keeps your puppy busy and teaches him what is appropriate to chew on. My dogs love Kongs and Buster Cubes.
Water - keep a nice supply of clean fresh water. Heavy wide based bowls that won't be tipped over are best or you can buy one that clips securely onto the crate wall.

Introducing Your Puppy To The Crate

Your puppy's first impression and experiences with the crate are all important. We need to set it up so your puppy views the crate as a positive object right from the start. You goal is for your puppy to love the crate and choose to use it himself rather than as a contraption he associates with isolation and loneliness.

Try some of the puppy crate training tips below to make the crate inviting to your puppy - always take it slowly. Put the crate in the room with you and your puppy, leave the crate door open wide.

Drop a few tasty treats in and around the crate and let your puppy clean them up. Be sure to give heaps of encouragement and then praise if your puppy bravely steps into the crate.
If your puppy has a favorite dog bed or blanket put this inside the crate to encourage him and to make it more homely for him.
Feed your puppy all of his meals in the crate (door still open).
With your puppy outside the crate place a chew toy inside the crate and close the door. Your puppy will literally beg you to let him at it! Open up the door, let him in and praise his efforts (this method has proved very successful for my dogs).
When your puppy is not around tie a chew toy (like a stuffed kong) inside the crate and leave the door open. Let him discover the "treasure" and leave him inside to enjoy the find.
When your puppy is comfortable in the crate close the door and feed some treats to him through the mesh. To start with just leave the door closed for 10 seconds then gradually increase the duration. Don't increase the time too quickly, if your dog becomes distressed or whines you are moving too fast.
Build up the amount of time he is in the crate slowly, first when you are in the room, then step outside the room for a short time. Your puppy's first really long stretch in the crate is ideally overnight with the crate in your bedroom.

Puppy Crate Training - Shaping The Behavior

I find that the tips outlined above are more than enough to get most puppies comfortable in their crates. If you are having trouble with a difficult or nervous pup try this puppy crate training exercise to shape the desired behavior.

1. Place the crate in an area where you and your puppy spend time together - leave the crate door open.

2. Any time your puppy shows any interest in the crate (like a look) praise him/her and throw him a tasty treat. Repeat this over and over.

3. You'll find that your puppy soon becomes very interested in his crate. This step asks more of your puppy. Don't praise and treat only a glance at the crate now, wait until your pup walks over towards the crate, then enthusiastically praise and reward with a treat.

4. Repeat Step 3 many times and then make it harder again for your puppy to earn a treat. Hold off with your praise and treats until your puppy actually steps in the crate now. Repetition and reinforcing the desired behavior is the key.

5. Now your pup should be popping in and out of the crate to work for his treats. Now you hold off with your praise and treats until your puppy goes into the crate and sits down.

6. The final step is to have your puppy step inside the crate, sit down and then you will close the crate door (only for a few seconds to start with) and feed some treats through the door.

7. Attach a cue word to this process such as "bedtime" or "go to crate". Say your cue word every time your puppy steps inside the crate - he will soon associate the word with the act of getting in to the crate.

General Rules Of Puppy Crate Training

Always take your dogs collar off when he is put in the crate. Otherwise the collar can get caught on the crate which can have disastrous consequences.
Ensure that you aren't asking your puppy (or older dog for that matter) to hold off from going to the toilet for longer than she is physically capable.
If your puppy does have a toilet accident inside his crate obviously punishment is not an option, but you should be angry at yourself. Immediately clean up the mess including the use of an odor neutralizer.
Be careful when crating your puppy in hot weather. Be especially careful when you have your puppy crated in your car, temperatures can become extreme inside cars and in a very short period of time.
Except for overnight and one off occasions you should never crate your dog for more than 4 or 5 hours at a time. Why have a dog if you have to confine him for such long periods? Perhaps a goldfish would be a more suitable pet?
Dogs love their exercise, particularly nice long walks with you. So if you are going to crate your puppy or older dog they will require plenty of exercise and mental stimulation throughout the day. This can also include some obedience training sessions.
Never release your puppy from his crate (unless the situation is getting dangerous) if he is causing a fuss by whining, barking or being destructive. If you give in to these demands you are actually rewarding and therefore reinforcing this undesirable behavior.
Don't fall into the trap of only crating your puppy when you are about to leave the house - the crate will begin to be associated with you leaving if this is the case.

Good luck with your puppy crate training - as long as you follow the above plan with consistency and patience I'm sure you'll achieve great results.

Try this simple but effective way to introduce your puppy
to his/her crate - by a brilliant dog trainer, Dr. Ian Dunbar.

Dogs Time

Clicker Dog Training

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 22:06:00 -0700

What's With All This Fuss About Clicker Dog Training?

Quite simply clicker dog training is the most humane and effective way we know how to shape any new behavior in our dogs and extinguish any existing behavior problems.

Clicker dog training utilizes proven behavioral science methodology to clearly communicate and interact with our dogs. We now have a greater understanding of how animals (including our dogs!) think and learn - clicker training is the practical application of this knowledge in real life everyday situations.

Clicker dog training is a positive, reward based training method which relies on co-operation, consistency, repetition and positive reinforcement. Clicker training is free from any violence or harsh corrections. The best thing about clicker training are the results you and your dog will achieve - plus you'll have a heap of fun in the process.

A Really Quick Overview Of Clicker Training For Dogs

Learn How To Become A Super Clicker Trainer!

The clicker training methods we now use on our dogs were first employed in the 60's to train marine mammal's (dolphins). These methods were then brought across into the dog training arena thanks to Karen Pryor, and really started to take off in the early 90's. The clicker training movement in the dog world has been picking up steam ever since and is now an unstoppable force - and for good reason...

What Is The Clicker?

The clicker is a plastic toy like device with a metal strip that makes a quick, clear, consistent and distinctive sound when pressed. For our purpose it serves to accurately "mark" the behavior that we are shaping in our dogs and provides them with precise feedback - it does not have magical powers.

Choke Chains, Prong Collars and Harsh Corrections are not the tools of a clicker trainer.

Yeah, but what exactly is Clicker Dog Training?

Tell me Chris, "How does this clicker training work and can you honestly tell me that a little plastic clicker will train my dog?"

Well no, the clicker doesn't actually train your dog - but it is an important tool in the clicker training process. Clicker training relies on our understanding of how dogs learn, dog psychology and the behavioral science principles of Operant Conditioning and Classical Conditioning. We know that when we combine these principles it is our best means of communicating with our dogs.

At the core of the clicker dog training principle is this proven belief - Reinforced or rewarded behavior in a dog is more likely to be repeated, and behaviors that are not reinforced will become less likely to occur again.

These are the brilliant communication tools of a Clicker Trainer:

Operant Conditioning:

Basically this takes advantage of the fact that dogs learn by the immediate consequence of their actions. What this means is that if we provide and control these consequences we will in fact be controlling our dog's behavior. I hear you ask "how do we control the consequences of our dog's behavior?" We do it by giving them instant feedback. This feedback or consequence can take the form of the following five outcomes:

1. Positive Reinforcement - we add something to strengthen or increase the occurrence of a behavior.

2. Negative Reinforcement - we take something away to strengthen or increase the occurrence of a behavior.

3. Positive Punishment - we add something to weaken or decrease the occurrence of a behavior.

4. Negative Punishment - we take something away to weaken or decrease the occurrence of a behavior.

5. Extinction - we no longer reinforce a behavior so it goes away.

What does all of this mean? Depending on which of these 5 consequences we provide, we are making the behavior occur more often or making it fade away.

A couple of quick real life examples of a dog learning through the consequences of their behavior (Operant Conditioning).

If you throw a tasty liver treat to your dog every time he sits down I'm tipping you will have a dog who spends a lot of time on his butt! By rewarding or reinforcing the sitting behavior you are ensuring that it will become more common.
The same principle applies in this scenario. If you have a dog who likes to jump up on you and you respond by giving him a cuddle or a nice scratch behind the ear each time he does it, you are rewarding and therefore strengthening this behavior. Why wouldn't your dog jump up on you again? He'd be mad not to.

Classical Conditioning:

When we combine the effectiveness of Operant Conditioning with the power of Classical Conditioning clicker dog training is the brilliant result.

Classical Conditioning is the pairing of two unrelated stimuli so that an association is formed between the two.

Think of it from your dog's perspective. When you put your jacket on your dog gets all excited because she associates this with going for walkies! In your dog's mind two unrelated things have become linked. In clicker dog training the sound of the clicker becomes associated with receiving a reward. When your dog hears the click she will expect a treat to come her way fast! - it is amazing how quickly dogs build this association between the "click" and a yummy treat.

NOTE: Don't worry if all this scientific theory sounds a bit confusing. The power and effectiveness of clicker training will become crystal clear as soon as you give it a go.

For a detailed explanation of Operant and Classical conditioning please visit this page Clicker Training Theory.

What all of this theory means is that a clicker trainers overwhelming focus is on marking and rewarding the desirable behavior of their dogs, rather than on the dogs undesirable behavior. Training sessions are motivational, full of praise and rewards and they are also free from any threat of violence or harsh punishment (unlike many other training methods). This clear emphasis on positive reinforcement gives dogs the freedom and confidence to think, learn and experiment throughout the training process. The dogs natural capabilities are encouraged and rewarded rather than being suppressed through the threat of violence or harsh corrections. From your dogs perspective they can solely concentrate on the challenge of learning and trying new things rather than worrying about the consequences of doing something wrong. Which scenario do you think is a better environment for a dog to learn and bond with their trainer?

The clicker itself is basically a construction tool used to build, shape and reinforce desired behavior. It's function is to clearly pinpoint the behavior we are looking for in our dogs (sit, down etc.) precisely when it takes place. It marks this event or behavior and provides instant positive feedback (which is what dogs need to learn!) to your dog. Clicker trained dogs quickly learn that the clicking sound is a good thing, that a reward is on its way and they strive to hear its sweet sound. Some trainers call the clicker a "bridging stimulus" meaning that the click links up or connects the desired behavior to the reward (treat, praise etc.). The click also signifies to your dog that the behavior is finished, that their job is over.

Once you have the desired behavior (sit, down etc.) rock solid and reliable in all circumstances and situations you can gradually phase out the clicker and the reward for that behavior. Then you and your dog can move on to learning your next trick!

Clicker Training - Step-by-Step

Lets have a look at a clicker trainers step by step approach to shaping a new behavior: Always remember that dogs know how to do these tasks already we just need to clearly communicate to them what we want them to do - and make it worth their while to do so.

1. Get the desired behavior to happen - use a lure, target stick, shape it or let occur naturally.

2. Mark the behavior the instant it happens - "click"

3. Reward/Reinforce the behavior - use tasty treats, praise, life rewards etc.

4. Generalize the behavior - add the so called three D's. Practice the behavior everywhere adding new challenges like increased duration, distance and distractions.

5. Cue the behavior - add a verbal and/or visual signal such as "sit" or "down" etc.

6. Gradually fade the clicker and treats.

Quick Video Of A Clicker Trainer Shaping The "Sit" Behavior

Advantages Of Clicker Dog Training

Builds a strong bond between handler and dog, based on co-operation and mutual respect.
It's a positive, gentle, non violent and motivational training method.
Is based on a proven scientific method that works.
Is great for young puppies.
Focuses on what is right rather than what is wrong, which builds confident dogs.
Raises a thinking dog and one who is creative.
It's a very forgiving method - just get out and try it!
Dogs have a great attitude towards training and are stress free.
Clicker dog training is fantastic for big heavy dogs. This is because you work in cooperation with your dog rather than by pushing, shoving or manhandling your dog. Hey, they use clickers to train Rhino's, so don't be fooled into thinking that it is not an effective technique for big dogs.

My Experience With Clicker Dog Training

I only started using clicker training with my dogs about two years ago. For a long time before that I resisted the change, even though plenty of people who I respected kept telling me to give clicker training a go. I was happy with the methods I knew well and had always used. The first time I used clicker dog training was because my mum asked me to train her new little Shih Tzu puppy called Macy. She wanted her trained using clicker training methods, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to experience first hand what all the fuss was about this clicker training.

It didn't take me long to realise that clicker training had a lot going for it. I soon found that dogs really love the clicker training process and most importantly I could see the results were quick and very impressive. It's been a refreshing and unexpected change to see the sheer delight and enthusiasm all dogs have show towards our clicker training sessions. Take Macy for example, she sits in front of me shaking, almost bursting with excitement when I produce the clicker. After she has thought her way through the session she is always exhausted - it takes a lot out of dogs mentally.

This is the clicker training resource I used when I first taught Macy - Clickertraining Academy

"Macy" our Shih Tzu loves the clicker!

Where Do You Learn More About Clicker Dog Training?

Getting Started Clicker Training

My advice would be to just get out and try clicker training for yourself. It's the best way to really appreciate and see for yourself its many benefits and advantages. Then if you feel you would like to continue to further your knowledge and become a better clicker trainer, I'd suggest you read a good clicker training book or maybe watch a DVD or two. My main recommendation would be to just enjoy the process and do it because it works!

For further reading, online videos and clicker training supplies there is only one place to go. Karen Pryor is the leading authority on Clicker Training For Dogs and she has a great website - www.clickertraining.com

Another excellent and highly recommended product to get your clicker training experience off to a great start:

This Is What You Can Achieve Through Clicker Training

Some Other Good Clicker Dog Training Articles:

The History Of Clicker Training by Karen Pryor

How To Stop Unwanted Barking

Puppy House Training The Clicker Way

Are You A Leader Or Just A Treat Dispenser?

Dogs Time

Dog Whisperer Training Methods

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 22:00:00 -0700

Dog Whisperer: A person who has, or claims to have, a natural ability to relate to or connect with dogs.

Yeah, but there's more....

What Is A Dog Whisperer?
Who Is The Dog Whisperer?
Dog Whispering In Your Dog Training
Can Anyone Be A Dog Whisperer?

What Is A Dog Whisperer?

A dog whisperer is somebody who has developed a high level of awareness and understanding of the mind and natural instincts of the canine species. This allows human and dog to form a deep connection free of the many constraints humans normally put in the way.

Because us humans and our dogs are a different species we often encounter difficulties in communicating effectively with each other. We can't just sit down with them and have a conversation over a nice cup of coffee, like we would with our human friends. But what can we do? I'll get into that a little later, but you could say that being a dog whisperer means that you have broken down these barriers of communication and have developed a very real form of two way communication with dogs. A dog whisperer realigns his/her methods of communication so that it matches up with and is relevant to dogs.

What am I thinking?

Unfortunately the majority of human-dog relationships in this world are one way, lopsided affairs. It's usually us humans endlessly issuing commands or reprimanding our dogs, seemingly oblivious to what our dogs are actually feeling and trying to communicate to us. Look at it this way - think of a very dominant, overbearing person you have come across in your own life (in my case it was a boss I had a few years back). This person probably doesn't care much for how you are feeling and what your thoughts are. They just want to get their message across to you and tell you off when you don't reach their standards. When you do try to do or say something they fail to acknowledge your attempts or simply ignore you. How do you feel? frustrated.., helpless.. and probably much worse. I believe many of our dogs live in this type of restrictive environment every day. Our dogs are constantly reaching out and trying to communicate with their human family, but somehow it seems to go unnoticed or at least misinterpreted.

The thing is our dogs are continually speaking to us in their language. They communicate with us (and each other) through various means using energy, body language, scent, facial expression, the movement of ears and tail, overall posture and voice (barking, growling). As you can see, most of these signals or expressions are non verbal where's humans communicate in a mainly verbal manner. What a dog whisperer does is acknowledge the difference between human and dog. A dog whisperer takes a step back, shuts up, observes and understands these gestures our dogs continue to express to us. When you do this you can't help but form a deep connection with your dog as you will understand his wants and needs and therefore can respond in a manner which is appropriate to the situation, and is expected by your dog. You are communicating, your dog to you, and you to your dog - instead of merely issuing and enforcing an order and having your dog "do something for you".

When we are in this position of understanding our dogs it's only logical that we are better placed to address their problems and shape their behavior. A dog whisperer treats a dog as a dog, not as a fluffy four legged human. They respect a dog for what it is and work with mother nature and the natural instincts of the canine species. Sadly most dogs aren't afforded this same respect and level of understanding. Many well intentioned "dog lovers" smother their dogs with affection and the best of everything (toys, treats, fancy beds etc.) but this is not what dogs actually crave. A dog whisperer will provide the species specific, very real needs of the dog so they can live a fulfilling, peaceful, happy and well balanced life.

Picture this all too common scenario. You arrive home from a hard day at the office to find that your beloved dog has once again chewed up the cushions that were nicely decorating the sofa. You're angry. In a raised voice you swear at him/her and tell him how disappointed you are. You then throw your shoe at him as you bend down to pick up the mess. As you are blowing off steam your dog is avoiding you, head down low, eyes looking up almost sheepishly, with tail firmly tucked between his hind legs.

At this point many dog owners look at their dog and say "look at the little bugger, he knows what he's done wrong, just look at how guilty he looks". This is the wrong conclusion to make. Your dog doesn't think like that (like a human) and he doesn't have a clue what you are rambling on about. He makes no connection between the chewed up cushions and your mood. Dogs live in the present moment, so what he is picking up on and reacting to is your angry energy, raised voice and threatening body language. He may have also learned what the consequences are when you arrive home in this type of mood - he was probably waiting for the shoe to come his way! This scenario is an example of how us humans and our dogs view the very same situation from an entirely different perspective. Dog whispering is about understanding and recognizing that these differences exist, then acting accordingly.

Who Is The Dog Whisperer?

Many dog trainers and dog behaviorists around the world have attached the "Dog Whisperer" tag to their names. The most prominant ones are Cesar Millan who has a great TV series "Dog Whisperer" on the National Geographic Channel, Paul Owens who has a brilliant book and DVD titled "The Dog Whisperer - a compassionate, nonviolent approach to dog training". Then there is John Richardson from Australia whose book "The Dog Whisperer" is also a beauty. You'll probably find someone who practices dog whispering in your area too.

How Do You Integrate Dog Whispering Techniques Into Dog Training?

When you open up the lines of communication with your dog, it can't help but impact on the entire relationship and bond you share. The advantage of utilizing dog whispering techniques in your training is that you create an environment where your dog chooses to work with you and doesn't feel intimidated or forced to perform under the threat of violence. Dog whispering in a training context is motivational, non violent and based on repetition and positive reinforcement. In many ways it replicates how dogs interact with each other, working with mother nature and with the natural instincts and drives of the dog. It's a give and take process, just like any functional, working relationship. In practical terms a dog whisperer uses observation skills, watches, listens, identifies, interprets and develops an understanding of the dogs actions, feelings and needs. He/she also uses energy, voice in a soft tone, subtle movements (body language) and scent - in a consistent, reliable manner. You can be sure that the dogs involved will be studying and picking up on all of these gestures, regardless of how subtle they may appear to be.

Can Anyone Be A Dog Whisperer?

Yes. Like anything there will be some people who are better at dog whispering than others. It certainly can be learned though. Dog Whispering is not hocus pocus or voodoo, it is there for anybody to see/do if you just take the time and effort. You can start right now by really studying your own dog, watching other dogs interact with each other at the park and if possible, monitoring a skilled dog trainer at work. If you are interested in learning more about dog whispering, dog psychology and how to apply it in your dog training I'd highly recommend "The Dog Whisperer - A compassionate, nonviolent approach to dog training" by Paul Owens. If you read this book and watch the lessons in Paul's DVD of the same name you will have all the tools you need to become a dog whisperer. Another good resource for people wishing to learn how to think and act like a dog whisperer is Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer.

Go from Dog Whisperer to How To Train A Dog home page.

Up Close With Cesar Millan "The Dog Whisperer"

Learn how to use dog whispering methods with your dog - Dog Whispering Training Course

Dogs time

Dog Obedience Training - The Down Command

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 22:00:00 -0700

The down command is the next lesson to teach in your dog obedience training schedule. It should be taught as soon as you and your dog have mastered the sit command. The down command is a fundamental ingredient of your overall dog obedience training program. It provides the foundation for many other advanced commands/skills and establishes you as the leader in the relationship you share with your dog. The reason for this is that the laying down position is a submissive and somewhat vulnerable position for your dog to be in, especially when you are standing tall over the top of your dog.

The down command is a very handy tool you will come to rely on in many situations. Popping your dog down into the lying down position is great for times when you need to go into a shop or for occasions when there are small children around. It can take a bit of practice to reach this level, but it is worth the effort.

Learning The Down Obedience Command

When you are in the learning phase of teaching the down command, start out by making it simple for your dog, then slowly turn up the difficulty level.

Move your training sessions to a public place.
Increase the time you keep your dog in the down position.
Bounce a ball around your dog when he is in the lying position, or scatter some food around him. The idea is that your "down" command will be so strong in your dog's mind, that none of these other distractions matter. He can only get up to chase the ball or eat the treats when you release him from the down command.

What you are trying to achieve with the down command is to have your dog quickly get down into the laying position, belly touching the ground and his front legs extended out in front.

In a familiar environment to your dog with no distractions, lets get started!

Down Command Technique 1 - Off Leash

Put your dog into a sitting position.
Grab your dogs favorite tasty treat and hold it a couple of centimeters in front of his/her nose. Move your hand straight down to the ground. Your dog should follow it down (you can praise and encourage him down). As soon as his belly hits the ground, with his legs out in front, lavish him with praise and give the treat.
Repeat this action over and over in short sharp training sessions.
When your dog is "getting it" and going down right away, you can add the verbal part of the command. I use "down" other people use "lay" or "drop", just choose the one you are comfortable with and stick to it (make it a one word command only). Add your command just before you start to move the treat towards the ground. This step is all about building an association in your dog's mind between the verbal "down" command and the act of him laying down.
The idea is that eventually, after plenty of repetition and praise your dog will only require your verbal command, and not the treat in your hand to lure him down. Also, in time you will be able to start the command not only from the sitting position but from standing and in any situation you and your dog are in.
When your dog is responding well to your verbal command, introduce some other variables which make the down command a little more challenging. Try the command as you go about your daily business, around other people or dogs and increase the duration of the command.

Down Command Technique 2 - On Leash

Put your preferred collar and leash on your dog - I just use a nice leather buckle collar when teaching the down command.
Place your dog into the sitting position and stand or kneel right next to him.
Basically you are trying to guide or coax your dog into the down position. How you do this depends on the size and co-operation level of your dog.
Always say your "down" command first, then immediately guide your dog down into the lying position. Grab hold of the leash and gently pull your dogs head down, at the same time guide him down by pressing down between his shoulder blades with the palm of your hand. You can also lift up your dogs front legs and extend them out in front of him, find the method which works best for you. Praise and encourage your dog all the way down. Then of course as soon as he's in the down position make it clear to him that you are happy with him and that he has done a good job.
After lots of repetition your dog will respond to your verbal command only. Then try the command when your dog is in the standing position and in other settings. Make the command a little more challenging by adding some distractions and increasing the time he is required to stay in the down position.

Whichever method you choose to teach your dog the down command be consistent and keep at it. If you plan to obedience train your dog at home this is the comprehensive training package I highly recommend SitStayFetch Dog Training Course.

When you are happy with your dog getting into the down position you will probably want to add a release command to it. This means that when you issue your down command, your dog goes straight down and is not permitted to get up until you issue another command. You can use "away" or "off you go" for this purpose.

This short video shows you the basic steps involved in teaching the down command using a clicker. It's worth a look.

Some other pages you and your dog may be interested in:

What Is The Best Dog Food?

Is Dog Health Insurance Worth Your Money?

Dog time

Training A Puppy To Walk On A Leash

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 21:55:00 -0700

One of the first things you need to teach your young puppy is how to behave on a leash. It is a crucial skill to master for both you and your dog's future. After training a puppy to walk on a leash they are much safer and more manageable, plus it means walkies is an experience you can both look forward to and enjoy.

The fact that you are reading this article "Training A Puppy To Walk On A Leash" probably means that you have a young puppy who needs to be leash trained. This is a great position to be in, as it is much easier to train a puppy the right way to walk on a leash, rather than trying to re-train an older dog.

If you follow the steps outlined below you should have your puppy leash trained within a couple of weeks. When my Dalmation, Harrison was a young pup we used these steps to have him leash trained in three days. If it takes you and your dog a little longer, don't panic, it will be worth it in the end.

Don't just expect your puppy to know this stuff! Your goal is to clearly communicate to your dog, what is acceptable behavior on the leash, and what is not.

How To Train Your Puppy
To Walk On A Leash

Step 1

This first step can begin as soon as your puppy arrives at his new home. All it involves is getting your young pup familiar with and comfortable wearing a collar. A simple light weight leather collar is ideal for this task. Place it on your puppy when you feed him or as you are playing, this provides a bit of a distraction from the collar. He'll probably roll around trying to dislodge it, or try his best to scratch it off. When he is doing this it is important that you don't take it off him. Wait till he has settled down and forgotten about it before you take it off.

Step 2

Once your puppy is happy wearing his new collar, it is time to introduce the leash. Same thing again here, you just want to get him comfortable with the leash, and to show him the leash is not to be feared. Any light weight, thin leash is fine for this step. You can buy your puppy a fancy leather leash after he is properly leash trained if you choose. All you need to do is clip the leash onto his collar, let him check it out and drag it around the house (always under your supervision). He'll forget about it after a while.

Step 3

Now that your puppy is comfortable in his collar and with the leash, it is time to pick up the other end of the leash. Make these first leash training sessions short, sharp and fun. At this early stage you will probably find that your puppy loves to follow you around everywhere - use this to your advantage. To start with just walk around the house with the leash in hand, and your puppy trotting along side you. When he is walking along on a loose leash give him plenty of praise, petting and even some treats. When he strains on the leash, stop immediately. Don't yank him back over to you with the leash, just call him back over to you and praise him when he comes. Never ever keep walking when your puppy is pulling on the leash, this only rewards his behavior and reinforces the habit. Your puppy has to learn that when he pulls on the leash, he gets nowhere. If he wants to continue walking, it has to be by your side on a loose leash. The same rule applies if your puppy sits down when you are walking. Don't yank him forward towards you, just call him over and reward him when he arrives. Then set off walking again with your puppy by your side.

This method of training a puppy to walk on a leash is suited to very young puppies, it requires no pulling from you or your dog. The result is a nice loose leash hanging down between you and your dog. All it takes to achieve this is to follow the above steps, then apply some patience and persistence. Please read this article for leash training older dogs. You can also teach your puppy or older dog to walk on a loose leash using a clicker - loose leash walking.

Some Useful Tips To Follow When Teaching
Your Puppy To Walk On A Loose Leash

If you plan to train your puppy at home, please check out these two do-it-yourself dog obedience training programs. Both of these products offer the latest cutting edge training techniques you can apply yourself at home. I have used both of these products and have written a detailed review which you can access below.

Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer.

SitStayFetch.

Dogtime.com

Training A Dog To Stay Step by Step Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 21:49:00 -0700

After you and your dog have mastered the sit and down commands, the logical extension on them is training your dog to stay. Really when you think about it your sit and down commands aren't much value if your dog merely gets into those positions and then bounces back up straight away. That's why I like to add the stay command, although some dog trainers believe it to be an unnecessary extra command. Their theory being that when they request that their dog sits or goes into the down position, the dog should stay in that position until they are told otherwise. For those of you choose to use the stay command - read on.

Pocky "Stay"

Training a dog to stay can be difficult at first. In a way it goes against what your dog is used to (following you around) and also his/her natural instincts (being close to their pack). With this in mind keep the stay command very simple to begin with and build upon your dogs successes slowly.

Once you have trained your dog to hold a reliable stay in any situation you will find it handy on many occasions. It's a great behavior to request when visitors come to your home, if you need to duck inside a shop or if you have a dog who likes to bolt out the front door.

Right let's get started - it's a good idea to first train your dog to stay when he/she is calm and not all hyped up - after a walk is a good time. Your first training session should be in a familiar environment to your dog, free from any distractions and should only last for a few minutes.

Training A Dog To Stay - Step by Step

1. Put your dog into the position you would like him/her to stay in (use your sit, down or stand commands) and stand directly in front of him. After about 1 or 2 seconds, if your dog is still in the position you requested, give him some praise and a treat. You are rewarding the behavior you are looking for which is a stay, even if it is only 1 seconds worth to start with. As soon as you give your praise and treat, the behavior is over (this is your signal for your dog to release from his stay) so it is fine if your dog moves off. Then you begin the process again from the start, this time maybe hold your praise and treat off for 3 or 4 seconds. Just take it slowly and if your dog breaks out of the stay at any time before you have given him the release command, simply say aah-aah, don't give the treat and start the process again.

2. The next step is to add a verbal command and hand signal to step 1. It goes like this - once again stand directly in front of your dog and place him in the position you would like him to stay in. Now as soon as he is in the desired position say "stay" and at the same time hold your hand out in front of you, with your palm facing out towards your dog's nose (like a stop sign motion). Now after waiting a second or two praise and reward your dog for staying in this position (sit-stay or down-stay etc.). As was the case in step 1 you can now repeat this process over and over, gradually increasing the time between your "stay" command and your praise and treat. What you are doing is building an association in your dog's mind between your verbal "stay" command and the act of staying in the one spot.

3. You've now got the stay command sorted - in it's most basic form anyway. It's now time to add some other variables and build upon it. Many trainers label this proofing stage as the three D's - Duration, Distance and Distractions. Up until now (in steps 1 and 2) you have been working in a familiar environment free from distractions and you've just been standing right in front of your dog. Let's mix it up a little, adding one new variable at a time. Start out by issuing your "stay" command with your hand signal, now take a step backwards, pause, then step back towards your dog. If your dog has remained in his sit-stay or down-stay, praise him and give him a tasty treat. Continue to repeat this process, gradually increasing the amount of steps you take back - always remember to return back to your dog before you reward him. Keep in mind what it is you are actually rewarding him for (the stay) and if he gets up to move away he shouldn't be receiving a reward or treat. The next challenge you can add to the stay command is to move your training session to a different location, possibly somewhere with a few distractions such as other people or animals. Remember take it slowly and only add one new variable at a time. Another good idea is to practice your stays anytime throughout the day. For example make your dog "stay" when you go out to collect the mail or "stay" when you are preparing his dinner.

A game you can play with your dog to reinforce the "stay" command is hide and seek. This game is heaps of fun and all you do is place your dog in a down-stay then run off and hide. When you are ready, sing out your release command and your dog will set off to track you down.

Here's another good article which shows you how to shape a reliable stay behavior - Stay Using Clicker Training Methods

Note: When training a dog to stay do not keep your dog in a sit-stay for more than 2 or 3 minutes. If you need your dog to stay for longer periods use the down-stay.

If you're considering training your puppy or older dog yourself at home, please consider following this Complete Dog Training Package as your guide.

Short Video Showing Another Method Of Training A Stay

The Dogs training

Dog Training Come or Recall - You Need To Get This One Right

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 21:47:00 -0700

The dog training come command is probably the most important obedience command you will ever teach your puppy or older dog. At some point in time you will no doubt rely on it to guide your dog away from serious danger.

Apart from being essential for safety reasons, when your dog has mastered the dog training come command he/she can be allowed greater freedom in many situations. Like when you are down at the beach or out hiking your dog can go off exploring on her own but will always be alert and ready to respond to your come command. This gives all of us dog owners piece of mind and is very reassuring.

Your ultimate goal when teaching the dog training come command (sometimes called recall) is to receive an immediate response from your dog upon hearing your command, every time, regardless of what else is happening in the area at that time.

Lets not kid ourselves though, this type of response is not always easy to achieve. The dog training come command can take a lot of work, and the truth is that it is very difficult for some dogs to get 100% right. For certain breeds and dogs that love to chase or have a strong scent drive the come command actually works against their natural instincts.

Don't let this put you off though, you can succeed using the techniques outlined below. Basically you can teach the fast come command as soon as you get your new puppy (the earlier the better) or older dog, and you'll be reinforcing it every time you are with your dog throughout his/her life.

Why Doesn't Your Dog Come When Called?

These are the most common reasons why our lovely dogs seemingly ignore us and don't come when we call out to them.

Your dog does not understand what the "come" command means, she simply doesn't know what you are requesting her to do.

Your dog may have been allowed to get away with disobeying your come command in the past and was not held accountable for her actions (or lack of action!).

Your dog may believe that following the scent trail of a squirrel or continuing to romp around with other dogs at the park is more appealing than coming back to you.

Maybe your dog has responded well to your command in the past but was inadvertently punished for her good behavior. This could mean that you called her over then immediately locked her in a crate, or called her over and plonked her straight into a soapy bath (which she hates!).

General Rules To Keep In Mind When Training Your Dog The Fast Come Command

Never under any circumstances punish your dog when she comes back to you. Even if your dog seems to take an eternity to respond to you and you've got smoke coming out of your ears through frustration, it's important that you don't get angry with your dog. She'll associate your anger with the last action she did - which was coming to you.
Your goal is to make coming to you a more attractive option to your dog than any other alternative action.
Never let your dog off leash in public before you have your dog responding very well to your come command. Your dog has to work her way up to this privilege - see the steps involved in the dog training come command below.
Your come command should be something your dog looks forward to hearing, something she has a positive association with. You do this by making it wonderful each she comes to you, make it worth her while. Certainly do not only use the command to call your dog over to snap the leash back on after an off leash run or call her away from fun.
Incorporate the come command training into your daily activities. Use it to call your dog over for her dinner or call her over at anytime just to give her a scratch behind the ear or a tasty treat.
When you are teaching your dog the come command off leash and your dog doesn't respond, don't chase after her, first try waiting for her. If you do have to go and retrieve her don't punish her when you catch up with her, just go home or start your training session again, this time on leash.
Never call your dog in situations you know your dog won't come to you. You don't want your dog to think that sometimes it is ok if she doesn't respond to your "come" command. It has to be every time and your dog must never get away with not respecting it.
As with all obedience commands start your training sessions out easy, master one step then move on and build upon it. Challenge your dog along the way, but don't move too quickly. Your dog will gain confidence all the way along this process.

Depending on what level you and your dog are up to in your obedience training, you can apply one or all of the steps outlined below. I've found that if you apply repetition, reinforcement and patience to these training techniques, you and your dog will achieve great results.

Dog Training - The Fast Come Command!

1. Young puppies love to follow you around and often bound up to you with great delight - use this to your advantage. At this early stage all you need to do is make it clear to your puppy that you are happy to see her each time she comes to you. Make it a very pleasant and rewarding experience every time.

2. The next step is to introduce the verbal "come" command so that your dog connects its use with the act of coming to you. Start inside with no distractions around, crouch down or kneel, then in a friendly and welcoming voice say "Macy come" (Macy's my little Shih Tzu puppy), you can even wave a tasty treat around to lure your dog over if necessary. When your puppy (or older dog) gets to you, immediately praise and reward her effort. Repeat this exercise many times throughout the day to reinforce the connection.

3. If you have someone else there to help, you can now introduce the "back and forth" game. Position yourself at one side of the room and your helper on the other side. Call your dog over "Macy come" (only once, but you can encourage her over), then reward when she arrives, next your helper calls her over and rewards her when she arrives. This game is a lot of fun for your dog and teaches your dog to respect the "come" command from a person other than you. You can extend this exercise into a game of hide and seek by going into a different room to your partner, call your dog and let her find you. Make it worth her while when she does track you down - mosts dogs love this game.

Short Video Clearly Showing The Recall Game

4. Now you are confident your dog understands and is responding quickly to your "come" command you can reinforce it in different environments and situations. Put your dog on a leash (just the one you take her on walks with) and head outside. Call your dog with the same "come" command and walk backwards, when she comes close to you give her a treat and a nice scratch behind the ear. Practice this at various stages throughout your normal walk, don't forget to always praise your dog's good work!

5. The next step you can take is similar to step 4 but this time clip a long line on instead. This is a lightweight piece of rope which you can buy at pet shops or from hardware and camping stores. To start with put the long line on in a familiar environment (like your yard) and then you can progress to public places (like the dog park) when you are ready. The long line just trails along behind your dog (she will forget it is there after a while), she will feel that she has complete freedom, but in reality you can catch her whenever you please. Continue to call your dog over "come" and praise her when she does, then send her on her way again. Please note that the trailing long line is not used to "reel your dog in", it's there as a precautionary measure to stop your dog bolting away from you. It's very hard for any dog to outrun you with the trailing leash clipped on, and hopefully you won't need to be chasing your dog anyway. For further information on using a long line and properly teaching obedience commands I recommend SitStayFetch.

6. Next you can challenge your dog with a fun game. Again you should introduce this game in a safe confined area free from distractions, then progress from there. You need your helper again for this exercise. Stand about 50 feet from your helper, with your dog wandering around without a leash (you can have a tab leash on if you choose). Then throw a ball so it lands near your helper. As soon as the ball leaves your hand say "Macy come!", by doing this you are giving your dog a choice to make. She can either come to you as requested (which you would reward her for) or set off after the ball. If she decides the ball is a better option, your helper leans down and picks it up before she arrives. Your helper just holds onto the ball and ignores your dog. When your dog decides it's time to go back to you, just give her a bit of a pat, but don't make a fuss. It's a good idea to mix it up a bit and throw the ball without issuing your "come" command at times, just let your dog get the ball.

If at any time while working through these steps your dog doesn't seem to be "getting it" just take it back a step and work on an easier level. If you plan to obedience train your dog at home I would suggest using this complete dog training package as your guide.

The http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Training Your Dog To Sit - Proven Training Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 21:44:00 -0700

Training your dog to sit on command is a good place for you and your dog to start your obedience training. It's a nice easy command which your puppy or dog will master very quickly. This will increase your dog's confidence and provide a foundation on which to build more advanced skills and commands.

Another benefit of training your dog to sit is that it gives you a good alternate behavior to request of your dog. If your lovely dog likes to greet visitors to your home by jumping up all over them, or charges out the front door every time it opens, you can gain control of him by applying your "sit" command.

You can start with this obedience command as soon as you bring your new puppy home, or any time after that. Before you start training your dog to sit (or any other obedience command) ensure that your dog is confident and comfortable around you - lets you touch him, gives you his attention etc.

General Rules To Remember When Training Your Dog To Sit

Keep your training sessions short, ten minutes is plenty to begin with.
Any time is a good time to practice really, you don't have to structure all your lessons. Incorporate the training into your daily routine. Get your dog to sit before you feed him or make him sit before you throw his ball at the park. When applied in this manner obedience training will be fun in your dog's mind, and rewarding.
Make it perfectly clear to your dog what you are asking of him - what you want him to do.
Make training your dog to sit fun, don't make it feel like a chore, for you or your dog.
Training sessions should be full of consistent repetition, praise and positive reinforcement.
Don't expect your dog to immediately learn this, or any other obedience command and then never forget it. It's up to you to reinforce the meaning of your command through repetition and consistency throughout your dog's life.
Gradually faze out the food rewards you may use in the learning period of a new command. Giving a food treat or reward every now and then doesn't hurt your dog though, even if he respects your commands without one.
When training your dog to sit for the first time, make it easy for him/her to succeed. Start your training sessions in a familiar environment to your dog, free from other distractions. Master the command in this setting, then slowly make it harder for your dog. Add other variables, throw a challenge out to your dog such as taking the training session to the park or increase the duration of the sit.

Training Your Dog To Sit - My Favorite Techniques

I have three techniques I like to use when teaching my puppies or dogs to sit. I've had a 100% success rate with these techniques and I'm sure you will too. Pick out the one that best suits you and your dog, and you'll be well on your way to having a well trained dog.

Technique 1

This first training technique is great for young puppies. When you are with your pup and you see him about to sit or in the act of sitting, say "sit" in a clear and firm tone. As soon as your dog's rear end hits the floor, give him praise and maybe a bit of a scratch behind the ear. In your dogs mind you are building an association between your verbal "sit" command and the act of him sitting. Most puppies make this connection very quickly. Before long you will be able to say "sit" at any time, and your puppy will understand what you are asking of him. Remember to always reward and praise your pup as soon as his behind hits the floor. Your pup will love it, he'll be thinking "all I have to do is sit down and I get attention, treats and praise!"

Technique 2 - Off Leash

For older puppies and dogs this training technique works every time. With your dog standing right in front of you, grab a small tasty treat in your hand. Guide the treat from his nose level up over his head, the treat should be a few centimeters away from your dog at all times. Your inquisitive dog will follow the treat up with his nose and at the same time his rear end will hit the ground. As soon as his behind hits the ground give him the treat and lavish him with praise. If your dog backs away or jumps up at the treat you are taking your hand too far back over his head, or holding it too far away from his nose. Repeat this step until your dog gets it, then you can introduce the verbal part of the command. Just before you begin to move your hand (the one with the treat in it) say "sit". Your dog will soon respond to your verbal "sit" command without you even moving your hand. Remember to practice/reinforce this command at any time throughout the day, in any situation.

Technique 3 - On Leash

If your dog doesn't respond to the methods outlined above, or if you prefer to use a collar and leash in your training, this technique will do the trick. Stand next to your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the leash straight up, directly above the collar. At the same time gently press down on your dogs back (down near his hips) and say "sit". As soon as your dog is in the sitting position, reward and praise him. Within no time you won't need to press down on your dogs back or even hold the leash up. He will understand that your "sit" command means that you require him to plant his backside on the ground. And he'll be happy to do it for you because he knows that he receives praise and attention when he does.

I hope these techniques prove successful for training your dog to sit, I'm confident they will. It's a good idea if you live with other people to teach these commands to them as well. They can then apply the exact same commands to your dog - your dog will appreciate this consistency.

If you plan on training your dog at home, and would like to do it the right way please consider using this complete dog training package. I have found it to be a very effective tool in helping me train my own dogs, and also strengthen the bond I share with them.

Another Simple Way To Teach Your Dog To Sit On Command

Some Other Pages You May Be Interested In:

Are you feeding toxic dog food - what is the best dog food?

Are you looking after your dog properly? - Dog health care tips

The Dog-time

Dog Training For Obedience - The Key To Raising A Well Behaved Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Sun, 31 May 2009 21:33:00 -0700

Go straight down to my list of Obedience Training Commands

What Is Dog Training For Obedience Purposes?

I, like most of us dog owners believe that dog training for obedience is an essential ingredient in any healthy human-dog relationship. But what exactly is obedience training, and why is it so important for you and your dog?

Obedience training is a general term which can be achieved through the many various dog training techniques (dog whispering, clicker training, positive reinforcement, marker training, collar and leash, reward training etc.). Regardless of which training technique you choose to employ or which dog training schools you frequent, this is what proper dog training for obedience should accomplish:

Builds or strengthens a healthy and appropriate relationship between you and your dog.
Opens up a clear line of communication between you and your dog. This includes you knowing what to expect of your dog in all circumstances, and your dog understanding and respecting what is expected of him/her.
Dog Training for Obedience lays down a set of rules or boundaries which educates your dog to become a responsible member of society. Including how to relate to other dogs, animals and people, basic manners and how to behave in any situation.
Establishes the groundwork which assists in preventing the development of unacceptable problem behavior - such as jumping up, barking, chewing, digging etc.

The Benefits Of Dog Training For Obedience

Dog training for obedience is the very best thing you can do for the relationship you enjoy with your dog, this is why:

Basic obedience training makes life simple to your dog and eliminates confusion. Your dog will know his place in the world and understand right from wrong. Dogs really appreciate this black and white view of the world.
Fun and rewarding for both you and your dog.
You'll have a happy, relaxed and confident dog who you can take anywhere and will be a pleasure to be around. Greater freedom can also be extended to your dog, as he'll be more trustworthy when obedience trained.
An obedience trained puppy or dog is a much safer dog. If your dog dashes out the front door you will still have voice control over him. You will be able to call on one of your obedience training commands like "come" "down" or "sit". This is very reassuring for any dog lover.
You gain trust and mutual respect with your dog. He understands what is expected of him and knows that you will always be fair and consistent with this.
When your dog is trained in obedience he will be fine around friends and kids under supervision.
Fulfills some crucial needs in your dogs life including exercise, mental stimulation, spending time with you and providing your dog with a "job".
Dog training for obedience greatly reduces the risk of being locked in a dominance struggle with your dog. You'll be his strong and always fair leader, who he'll respect and look to for guidance.
Obedience training is a step by step process which you build upon over time. It creates a foundation for your dog to learn additional skills and training commands. Throughout this process your dog will be gaining confidence along the way.

The Danger In Not Giving
Dog Training For Obedience

It's an unfortunate reality that untrained dogs are the major cause for puppies and dogs ending up in animal shelters all over the world. This is good for nobody, especially the poor dogs.
Your dog can't ever be really close with you and your family. By this I mean that your dog won't be involved in family outings, instead spending much of his time alone in the yard. This can bring on numerous behavioral problems and can be a real pest for you, and even your neighbours.
Your dog can be unsafe around people, other animals and on the roads.
It is a common trait for untrained dogs to challenge your leadership or authority. Obedience trained dogs will also try to test you out in this manner. But when you are proficient in obedience training you'll have the tools to deal with it.
Constantly (but not effectively) your dog will be yelled at and pushed further away from his pack (you and your family).

General Rules For Effective
Dog Training For Obedience

You'll find proven training techniques for specific obedience commands by selecting from the list below. These are some general tips to keep in mind that hold true in any dog training for obedience situation:

Praise and reward your dog when he does what you ask of him, give an appropriate correction when he doesn't do what he has been taught to do. The key is to find the right balance for your dog.
Don't expect your dog to just know this stuff straight away. Repetition of the command and the action is crucial. Believe in what you are doing and stick to it.
Always be consistent (this includes everybody who lives with your dog), make it easy for your dog. Give him a simple decision to make and make it clear to him which way is acceptable and which way is unacceptable - provide instant feedback.
Never correct or punish your dog for not doing something he has not been properly taught to do - be realistic and fair.
Make your training sessions short, sharp and fun - for you and your dog. This is where many dog training schools fall down.
Take it slow, master one easy command to start with then move on and build upon it. Continue to mentally challenge and stimulate your dog throughout the training process.
You're the best person to perform these tasks with your dog. Your dog has to live with you, you are his pack and you must be the person he looks to for leadership and who he respects.
Test or proof the obedience commands in different situations, places and with added distractions.
Incorporate obedience training into your daily routine - your dog could perform a "sit" before you give him his dinner, or a "down stay" when you go get the mail.
Never try to correct your dog if you don't catch him in the act of doing wrong, timing your correction is all important.
Find out what motivates your dog, this will be an important tool in your training sessions.
Work with the natural drives and instincts of your dog - this is explained further within the articles below.

Best Virtual Puppy Ever - Cute or Creepy?great free widgetsWidgetbox

Dog Obedience Training Commands

1. Sit!	2. Down
3. Come / Recall	4. Leash Training
5. Stay	6. Heeling
7. Go To Your Spot!	8. Leave It!
9. The Stand Command	10. Fetch or Retrieve

If you can't get to any dog training schools and are looking to gain a greater appreciation of how your dog thinks, solve behavioral problems and teach obedience commands I recommend this Dog Obedience Training Package.
The http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop - Dog Coprophagia

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Fri, 29 May 2009 02:55:00 -0700

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

Dog Coprophagia is one dog problem that us dog owners hate. To us it's a filthy habit that just doesn't make any sense. I mean why would our much loved pets eat dog or cat poop when we are feeding them perfectly good meals?

Dog Coprophagia (eating feces) is most common in puppies up to a year old, but can occur at any stage throughout a dog's life. For such a wide spread problem there hasn't been much research conducted into how to stop our dogs from eating dog poop. The good news though for us dog lovers is that there are many proven techniques or training methods we can call on to correct this habit.

If your puppy or older dog has taken a fancy to eating feces, read on...

Why Do Dogs Eat Dog or Cat Poop?

There are lots of theories as to why our dogs eat their poop - they can be broken down into two general groups:

Canine Behavioral Problem
Underlying Medical Problem

If you believe a medical problem could be causing your dog to eat her poop then a trip to your Vet is a must. They will perform an examination and can pinpoint the problem for you immediately.

An important thing to remember for all dog owners who have a poop eating puppy, is to ensure that all dog vaccinations and worming treatments are up to date. The reason for this is that various diseases and internal parasites can be passed from dog to dog through coprophagia.

Common Causes Of Dog Coprophagia

It simply tastes good to your dog (disgusting I know!).
Could be a symptom of anxiety, stress or boredom.
Puppies may have a vitamin or mineral deficiency and they eat feces to restore this balance.
If a puppy is punished for eliminating (pooping) inside your house he may on future occasions eat his poop to "hide the evidence". This could happen because your puppy has misinterpreted the punishment. In other words he believes that he was punished for pooping, rather than for pooping in the wrong area.
Could be that your dog is cleaning up his living area. This of course should be the owner's job.
Sometimes dogs develop this feces eating habit because they are copying the behavior of other dogs. There is also a theory that some dogs eat their poop because they see their owners cleaning it up, and they just decide to do it for themselves (not sure about this one).
Bitches with a young litter of pups will often eat the puppy's droppings. This is to keep the area clean and also to help conceal the litter from any predators.
Could be the result of over feeding. If a dog is over-fed he doesn't properly digest his food, therefore his feces still smell and taste like his dinner!
If you only feed once a day, some dogs can become very hungry and scavenge around for any food (including poo).
Some dogs have been known to develop Coprophagia when put on certain medications or antibiotics.
A dog may eat the feces of a sick dog. This behavior is an attempt to conceal or protect the sick dog from predators.
Dog owners have noted that when changing their dog's diet the dog has developed coprophagia - especially if the change was to a diet high in fat.

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

The techniques below have proven to be an effective way to stop dogs eating dog poop. You should try one method or combine a few until you break your dog's habit. Remember that unecessary punishment or getting angry with your dog does not work - for this or any other dog behavior problem.

Feed well balanced and nutritious meals.
Try feeding twice a day at regular times rather than only once.
Always keep your dog's living area clean of feces and provide a few stuffed chew toys to keep them occupied.
Be sure to adequately exercise and stimulate your dog - mentally and physically.
Teach your dog the basic obedience command "leave it". If you have established yourself as the fair and always consistent leader in your owner-dog relationship, this command will work immediately. To learn how to properly obedience train your dogs try Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer - I have achieved great results using these methods.
A technique I successfully used to stop my mother's Shih Tzu from eating her poop was to put a tablespoon of pineapple in her food.
Apparently pineapple tastes terrible when eaten in poop - can't say I've tried it myself! Other people have used Pumpkin, Spinach, Pickles or Garlic for the same purpose.
Always reward desired behavior.
As soon as you see your dog in the act of pooping provide a distraction. Maybe run off on him or call him over to you straight away - you can then praise or reward him. This may be sufficient to break this nasty habit, but you must be consistent using this method.
If you visit your local pet store you will find various products specifically designed for this problem. Forbid and Deter are a couple of products which have proven to help some dogs stop eating feces.
Another method (I haven't tried this one) which you could adopt is to slice your dogs poop length wise and lace it with tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (don't laugh, apparently it works).
In some cases fitting a muzzle to your dog may help to break a feces eating habit. This method is suitable in times when your dog is off leash, like at the beach or local dog park.
Use the power of "negative association" through the use of a choke or prong collar. Fit your dog with the collar and every time he goes to eat poop give a short sharp tug on the leash.
This correction will quickly teach your dog that eating poop is not a pleasant experience. This is an obedience training technique, you can learn how to properly bond and obedience train your dog with this training resource.

Whichever method you try with your dog be sure to be consistent. You must enforce your strategy every time in order to stop dogs eating dog poop. The longer you let this habit establish itself, the harder it will be to break.

One last thing - most dogs do grow out of their poop eating habit, just not fast enough for us owners!

Treating Separation Anxiety In Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Fri, 29 May 2009 02:41:00 -0700

Separation Anxiety in Dogs

One of the greatest joys of dog ownership is the tight bond we experience and encourage with our dogs. However, if your dog becomes too reliant or dependent on you, dog separation anxiety can occur when you and your dog are apart.

Separation anxiety in dogs is an enormous problem for around 10% of all puppies and older dogs. Somewhat ironically, problems related to separation anxiety are the major cause for dogs ending up in animal shelters. I wish I could say it is easily fixed, but in many cases it is a very difficult behavioral problem to overcome (hence this is the longest article on my website!).

Look At It From Your Dog's Perspective

To your dog you are the most important thing in his/her world. Dogs are pack animals who are very sociable creatures and thrive on company for many reasons. Your dog would spend every bit of his life with you if he could. So it's only natural that when you go out, your dog experiences varying degrees of distress or anxiety. He becomes confused, doesn't know where you are going, why he can't be with you and if you will be coming back to him. When the two of you are separated all he wants is to be reunited with his pack - which is you.

Punishment is NEVER the answer
to solving Separation Anxiety in dogs!

Does Your Dog Suffer From Separation Anxiety?

There's every chance your dog is suffering from a separation anxiety disorder rather than another dog behavior problem if:

Your dog gets really worked up and anxious when you are preparing to leave the house. Actions such as picking up your car keys or putting on your coat can trigger the behavior.
Your dog engages in inappropriate behavior only when you are separated. I expand on this topic further down the page, but behavior such as urinating inside, excessive barking and destructive behavior are common symptoms of canine separation anxiety.
Your dog follows you everywhere you go and immediately becomes distressed if he can't be near you.
When you arrive home your dog is over the top with his greeting and takes a while to calm down.

Why Do Dogs Experience Separation Anxiety?

There are many theories on this one. In some cases the cause or trigger can be pinpointed to a particular event, but often there appears to be no explanation for the dog separation anxiety to commence. What I can say is that separation anxiety in dogs regularly occurs:

Straight after a change in routine. Such as your work hours changing or a family member leaving home. Remember dogs are creatures of habit and any changes can be very unsettling and confusing to them.
If you have been on vacation or unemployed for some time and have been spending heaps of time with your dog. As a result of this when you go back to work your dog becomes anxious and distressed.
Unfortunately dogs rescued from animal shelters contribute a highly disproportionate number of dog separation anxiety cases.
After your dog experiences a traumatic event while on his own. If a thunderstorm lashes your home while your dog is alone, this can trigger separation anxiety in the future - your dog will associate your absence with the traumatic event.
If your dog is rarely left alone and becomes overly reliant on his human family - Golden Retrievers are very susceptible to this type of separation anxiety in dogs.
When you move house to a new neighborhood.

How Does Separation Anxiety In Dogs Manifest?

Barking	Whining
Licking	Destructive Behavior
Chewing	Howling
Panic Attacks	Digging
Inappropriate Urinating	House Soiling
Self Mutilation	Escaping
Diarrhea	Loss Of Appetite
Excessive Salivation	Vomiting
Jumping Through Windows	Crying

What Can You Do To Help Your
Dog Overcome Separation Anxiety?

The treatment administered to your dog's separation anxiety problem depends on its cause and severity. A mild case of separation anxiety in dogs will be easily fixed by applying some of the proven methods listed below. More severe cases will take lots of time and commitment, and possibly a visit to your Vet for some medication. Commence these techniques as soon as you identify separation anxiety to be the problem.

The golden rule is that you must to educate your dog to accept the fact that sometimes you will need to be apart from each other. The earlier you start getting your dog used to this fact, the easier it will be, for both of you.

Ensure that your dog feels safe and comfortable when you are away from him. Provide plenty of fresh water and clean, warm bedding for your dog.
Be sure to give your dog plenty of exercise when you are around. On leash walks, a run at the park with other dogs and some obedience training will all ensure your dog is happy and stimulated. Importantly it can also mean your dog will rest while you are out, instead of tearing up the garden.
Provide some appealing dog toys to help occupy his time. Kongs stuffed with frozen treats are a favorite with my dogs.
"It's Your Job To Provide Your Dog With Everything Required To Ensure He Is Happy, Well Balanced & Worn Out!"
Leave your dog a blanket or piece of clothing that has your scent on it. This may comfort a distressed dog - make sure it is something you don't mind being torn up though.
Try feeding your dog his main meal just as you are leaving the house. You can also hide part of his meal around the yard, which will give him/her something to do while you are away.
If you often have the radio on when at home, leave it on while you are away. This can be soothing and comforting in mild cases of Separation Anxiety in dogs.
Some dog owners report that buying another puppy or cat can help reduce separation anxiety. I believe that this action may reduce boredom, but won't stop your dog from missing you when you are apart.
Leave your dog in a safe and secure crate or kennel run. This has a two fold effect, it provides a comfortable "den like" area where your dog will feel comfortable, and it means your dog won't be able to act out many of the problem behaviors listed above. Be sure that your dog is completely happy in this area before you go and leave him for any length of time. I've never crated my dogs for separation anxiety treatment purposes, but many dog trainers and owners recommend this training technique. Crating your dog is not recommended for extended periods day in day out.
Give your dog some obedience training. Teach and practice some basic obedience training commands like sit, down and stay. Be a strong leader or the "Alpha Dog" in your owner-dog relationship, your dog will respect and trust you for it. When you establish yourself as the trusted leader, your dog will respect your right to come and go as you please.
Drop your puppy or dog off at a doggy day care center, to friends, neighbors or a family member's home.
Some trainers recommend the use of No Bark collars. These are an effective tool for stopping excessive barking problems. If your dog is barking as a result of suffering from separation anxiety it is highly likely that the barking will cease, but the problem will surface through any number of other destructive behavioral problems. Not an option I would pursue for treating separation anxiety.
I appreciate this one is difficult for many dog owners (including myself). Don't let your dog become too "clingy" and dependent on you every second you are together. Little by little teach your dog to be on his own when you are home. Put him in a crate, outside or just in the next room. Prove to him that it's not a bad thing to be separated from you, give him his favorite treat in another room and leave him there for a while. When he is quiet and calm go and give him some praise, make it clear you are happy with him. You can also practice your down stay obedience training command for this purpose.
Pay little or no attention to your dog when preparing to leave the house. Ignore him for 10 minutes and then slip out the door with no fuss. Same thing when you arrive home, just go about your business for about 10 minutes, ignore your dog. When he is calm, you can initiate some contact with him. You don't want him to believe that his behavior (barking, whining etc.) has contributed to bringing you back home. Don't inadvertently reward his behavior by giving a big over the top greeting every time you arrive home.

The 4 Step Program I Used To Fix My Dalmation's Separation Anxiety Problem

My dalmation Harrison developed Separation Anxiety seemingly for no reason when he was about 7 years old. He would start digging and crying as soon as I left the house, even if my other family members were home. My Veterinarian suggested this training process, it achieved the desired result but took plenty of time and patience.

Aside from the 4 step program listed below, I continued to practice the general day to day duties of responsible dog ownership. By this I mean things like providing a safe and comfortable bed, plenty of exercise and obedience training.

Harry would start to get anxious (his whole body would shake) at the very first sign of me leaving the house. This typically would be putting my shoe's on or turning off the TV or heater. It became a real problem for Harry, myself and the rest of my family, this is how we eventually solved it:

Step 1: Canine Separation Anxiety Treatment

Since Harry was always by my side when I was home I had to slowly teach him that he didn't always need to be close to me. I started out by ignoring his attention seeking behavior (jumping up, barking etc.) and then did some solid practice of his down stay. Little by little we extended the time and distance we spent apart, until he was happy to be alone for up to 30 minutes. Of course, we still spent lots of fun time together.

Step 2

The next step was to get him used to being outside while I was inside. Again we started off with very small periods apart and gradually lengthened the time over a couple of weeks. If you try this Separation Anxiety in dogs treatment make sure that you don't just leave your dog outside to get all worked up and stressed. The trick is to start out leaving your dog out for a few seconds, then going out and reuniting before he shows any signs of Separation Anxiety. Give your dog a treat or dog toy to keep his mind off missing you. Only initiate contact with your dog when he is calm and quiet.

Step 3

The next step in fixing Harry's Separation Anxiety in dogs problem was to eliminate the distress caused by me getting ready to leave the house for work. What I did was write a list of all the triggers that started Harry's anxiety. I then set about desensitizing him to these triggers. I'd put my shoe's on, and not go anywhere. Put my coat on, then sit down to read the paper. Pick up my car keys and just carry them around with me, jangling along as I went about my business. After a while (about 3 weeks) Harry barely offered a sideways glance at my shenanigans.

Step 4

When Harry was completely calm in situations that would have unsettled him in the past, I left the house. At first I just stepped outside, shut the door and came back inside within 20 seconds - before he made a sound. Again this was a slow process, similar to step 2. I extended the time outside the front door and then graduated to starting the car, then driving around the block before I came back inside. You can provide a tasty treat to your dog on your way out the door, something that he can work on for a while. Harry's favorite was a frozen Kong stuffed full of peanut butter and a few liver treats, this eventually kept him occupied for hours. Remember that when you return home, don't make a huge fuss. Come inside, get changed, pour yourself a nice hot coffee, then greet your calm dog.

This process did prove effective for me and my anxious dalmation. All up the 4 steps took about 5 weeks to work through and fix Harry's separation anxiety problem. My Vet suggested that I supplement this training with some medication. I didn't go down that path, but it would have been my next step had I required it.

Further information on treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs.

Another good article discussing the causes and effective treatment of canine separation anxiety utilizing a clicker.

Put a stop to your dog's behavior problems with positive, non violent but super effective training techniques.

How To Stop Dogs From Digging

noreply@blogger.com (Best Puppy) — Fri, 29 May 2009 02:06:00 -0700

One of the biggest frustrations that comes with dog ownership is trying to establish how to stop dogs from digging. Our dogs bring lots of joy into our lives, but excessive digging problems can certainly put a strain on the owner-dog relationship.

How To Stop Dogs From Digging

Dogs dig for a number of reasons and it's important to keep in mind that your dog is not digging to spite you. If you don't clearly communicate to your dog that his digging is unacceptable behavior, he won't even realize that he is doing anything "wrong".

Why Do Dogs Dig Holes?

To learn how to stop dogs from digging holes it is crucial to determine the reason why your puppy or older dog is digging in the first place. Below is a list of the most common reasons your dog may be digging:

* He simply likes to dig!.

* Your dog may just seeking your attention.

* May be bored and digs for mental and physical stimulation. What do you expect a bored, lonely and isolated dog to do?

* If your dog is digging under the fence he may be trying to get out to search for a mate.

* Dogs often dig in freshly turned dirt (like your rose bed!).

* Dogs are often attracted to fertilized dirt - the smell of fertilizer is irresistible to some dogs.

* To dig themselves a den - much as they would have in the wild.

* For shelter, to cool themselves down or warm themselves up.

* Some breeds are very prone to digging (terriers, labradors), it is instinctual and bred into them.

* May be because your dog is hunting for some little critters that live in your garden.

* For food storage purposes. While you and me prefer to use the fridge, our dogs think the garden will do just fine.

How To Stop Dogs From Digging

Whenever you are trying to change any behavior in your dog the golden rule is to be consistent! Make it very clear to your dog what is, and is not acceptable behavior.

Once you have determined the likely reason for your dog's digging, you must then pinpoint the solution. Below is a list of proven techniques. If applied correctly they will help to control your dog's digging problems.

* Give your dog lots of exercise, including heaps of physical and mental stimulation. Your dog's energy must be burned off in one way or another so why not channel it into something positive?

stop dog from digging
* If your dog is always digging in order to bury a bone, don't give bones! Substitute with chewing toys like rawhide bones.

* Confine your dog when you can't supervise him. Place him in a crate, kennel run or indoors whenever you aren't around to spy on him. You'll need to do this until you have fixed the digging problem.

* Blow up some balloons and bury them in the area your dog likes to dig. When he strikes a balloon, the noise of it popping startles your dog. In some cases the negative association this produces is enough to stop your dog from digging in the future.

* If you are able to be around your dog for a couple of days, you could have some success with this method. Whenever your dog starts to dig, reprimand him and spray him with the hose. Again this method produces a negative association to your dog each time he digs. You must perform this reprimand every time your dog starts digging holes for it to be successful.

* If your dog has a favorite spot he likes to dig you can bury some chicken wire just under the surface of this area. When your dog starts to dig he won't like the feeling of his paws scraping along the wire. I've used this method myself, and found that it worked well for my dalmation puppy who loved to dig!

* This one doesn't sound very nice but is a very popular and effective way to stop your dog from digging. What you do is fill up the holes your dog has created, adding some of his poop (feces) to the filling. Most dogs are really put off by this and won't attempt to dig again. Some trainers advocate feeding your dog pineapple before performing this technique. Apparently the pineapple smells terrible when mixed with the poop.

* Some dogs just copy what they see their owners doing. So if you're working away in the garden, suddenly your dog may be interested in doing the same! Such dogs may need to be confined while you are working in the garden. This is probably another form of attention seeking behavior.

* If you've got the room a great solution for both you and your dogs is to provide them with a digging area. You can actually encourage your dog to dig in this designated area. Fill it with nice soft sand and bury some of your dog's favorite treats in it. Most dogs figure out that if they want to dig, they must go to this area. Check out this video which clearly shows how to create a digging area for your dog - Dog Digging Box.

* If your dog is digging under the fence it may be worth filling in all the holes in and under the fence. By blocking these outside distractions or triggers you take away the visual temptation that your dog may be trying to get at.

* If you take a trip down to your local Pet Shop you will find many commercial products that claim to help digging problems. They are effective for some dogs and may be worth a try if you can't manage the digging problem through training.

* A couple of other methods you may want to try to control dog digging are to provide a few tasty chew toys for periods you are away from home and also employing a dog walker.

Good luck with stopping your dog from digging, and remember that basic dog obedience training is the key to correcting any dog behavioral problems. If your dog respects and trusts you, he will be eager to please you in all situations.

To learn how to stop dogs from digging and how to successfully obedience train your dog at home visit Secrets To Dog Training.

Best Puppy, training dog

Sassy’s pups very 1st feeding (puppy food)

Too Much Puppy Food?

Can I feed my puppy to much?

Stopping a Jumping Dog

Recognizing Dominate Behaviors in Dogs

Small Dogs vs. Medium and Large Dogs

Speaking Dog. What's your dog saying?

Choosing The Perfect Puppy Names - Find A Special Name For Your Special Puppy

"The puppy name you decide on says asmuch about you as it does about your dog."

Puppy Names - Check Out These Huge Databases Of Dog Names

Female Dog Names

Male Dog Names

Tapping Into Your Dog's Ability...

Through Dog Agility Training

The History of Dog Agility

Is your Dog an Athlete?Or Would He Rather Just Take a Seat?

Benefits of Dog Agility Training

Are you Ready, Freddy?Versed Things First

Dog Agility Training is no Gravy Train

Don’t Let Sub-Standard Equipment be an Obstacle to Success

Tunnels:

Seesaw:

Dog Walk:

Pause Table:

Pause Box:

Jumps:

A-Frame:

Weave Poles:

An Array of Agility

Standard Agility:

Jumping:

Power & Speed:

Juniors:

Teams:

Gamblers:

Snooker:

Running with the Big Dogs

Ready...Set...Go!

Porch Potatoes Need not Apply

Dog Tricks - Cool Dog Tricks To Teach Your Dog

Welcome To The Dog Tricks Zone - This IsThe Most Fun You Will Ever Have With Your Dog!

Why Bother Teaching Dog Tricks?

How Do We Teach Dog Tricks?

Tools Of A Dog Trick Trainer

Clicker:

Treats/Motivation:

Target Stick:

General Rules To Keep In Mind When Teaching Your Dog Tricks

Dog Tricks - Written Instruction & Video Examples

Getting Ready For Tricks

Cool Dog Tricks!

Dog Grooming Basics - All You Need To Keep Your Dog In Tip Top Shape

Simple or Stylish - a Complete Nose to Tail Makeover

The History of Pooch Panache

Grooming not just for High-Class Citizens

Ready...Steady...Groom!

When to Heed the Dog Groomer Rumors

Get a Dog Clip without making the Trip

Dog Grooming at Home – Keepin’ it in the Family

Brushing:

The Anatomy of a Dog’s Coat

Collar, Bodice, Hem

Bathing

Workin’ at the Dog Wash. Workin’ at the Dog Wash, Yeah!

Ear Cleaning

Nail Trimming

Toothbrushing

Clipping

Finding the Perfect Dogstyle

Dog Grooming - Get Schooled

Make Dog Grooming Great!

Dog Health Care - Give Your Dog A Happy, Healthy & Pain Free Life

Daily observation and maintenance of my dogs.

Picking up on the early signs/symptoms of illness or injury.

Accurately diagnosing and treating common health problems when appropriate.

Quickly recognizing health issues that require Veterinary care.

Dog Health Care Program - Things You Can Do Everyday To Manage Your Dog's Health

Responsible Dog Ownership - The Basics:

Dog Food Nutrition:

"The puppy name you decide on says as
much about you as it does about your dog."

Is your Dog an Athlete?
Or Would He Rather Just Take a Seat?

Are you Ready, Freddy?
Versed Things First

Welcome To The Dog Tricks Zone - This Is
The Most Fun You Will Ever Have With Your Dog!