Breeding rabbits

Commercial Rabbitry Training

2020-04-08T18:40:00.002+01:00

Join Watsapp class: HERE

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Commercial rabbitry training

2020-04-06T19:26:00.000+01:00

Complement of the season

2019-12-23T08:20:00.000+01:00

God bless you and sustain you in abundance of love, joy and peace.

Adventures Of Somebunny

2019-03-23T08:30:00.000+01:00

ADVENTURES OF SOMEBUNNY

WHY YOU SHOULD START RAISING RABBITS IN YOUR BACKYARD

2019-03-16T00:00:00.000+01:00

We’ve been living with them for as long as we can remember. From the days man hunted them for meat till now that we raise them in our backyard for meat.

Cottontail rabbit

Rabbits are a burrowing animal, which has long ears and a tail. A male rabbit is called a buck, a female rabbit is called a doe and the children are known as kittens. They are usually reared for their meat, wool, fur and even urine/manure. Their meat is considered as white meat and more suitable for special diet people.

The rabbit meat is highly touted because cholesterol and fat levels in rabbit are much lower; almost zero (nonexistent). For this reason, rabbit meat is being used and is suitable for special diets such as those for heart disease patients, diet for the aged, low sodium diet, weight reduction diet etc.

Why should you raise rabbits in your back yard?Bad economy, the huge gap between demand and supply of rabbit meat, rate of unemployment, grotesque protein deficiency level in children and adults in the country, the opportunities and for fun.

A rabbit can produce six pounds of meat on the same amount of feed and water it takes a cow to produce just one pound. Thus, high returns are expected.

The space required to build a rabbitry is quite small thus lower cost and since they reproduce very fast, there is always room for expansion.

The initial capital requirements are minimal because once you have a good structure in place, you can start with a few mature rabbits which will reproduce fast and increase your stock. The initial budget can be less than N50 000 depending on the number of mature rabbits the breeder starts with.

Feed for the rabbits is relatively cheap since vegetables are cheap and everywhere, while pellets go for about N4 500 for 25 kg . This will last the breeder for a whole cycle. In addition, the farms around us abound in straws, grasses and twigs which could serve as hay (free food)

The cost of acquiring a mature rabbit of any breed that is ready for breeding is between N2 000 to N4 000 and hay for N4, 000. The price of a mature rabbit is largely dependent on its weight and size. One hutch which can house either pregnant mother and kits, one male or kits from one mother cost N1,500 to build and between N3 000 – N5 000 for readymade ones.

Hare-raising business is adaptable to any location in Nigeria. Rabbits can be kept in any part of the country as long as they are housed properly and protected from predators and the elements.

Because they are noiseless, rabbits can be raised in garages and servants' quarters in urban centres without infringing on the peace of the neighbors. Very little space is usually needed.

Rabbits do not require routine vaccination or medication for the prevention or treatment of specific diseases.

Rabbits are herbivores and will consume large quantities of forage (greens), which people do not eat and convert this forage into valuable meat for human consumption. Practically, rabbits can be fed anything from the garden, forest or kitchen including banana and papaya (paw paw) peels, pineapple cores, corn stalks, weeds, vines from pulses, leaves (cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, carrots etc. This indicates that unlike chickens, rabbits compete minimally with humans for grains.

Related: Rabbit meat profile

With the meat situation, what it is and the economy in turmoil now is a good time to consider the rabbit business. The profits can come in many ways; Meat is by far the most important. Other products that can be sold for money include fur/pelt, urine, manure and blood.

Every product of the rabbit is valuable; fur, pelt, foot, meat, urine, manure, and bones can all be converted into money if you can find a market for them.

A profitable meat rabbit business can be started with just 3 to 4 does and 1 buck, some basic equipment, and a buyer.

There is great potential in this undertaking because of the increased lifestyle change of most families towards healthy living. This is evidenced by the preference to white meat rather than red meat and increase in the demand for rabbit meat since it is the most nutritious of the white meat. This is a trend that shows future growth of the industry and thus increased future cash flows of early entrants to the industry. The opportunity is immense based on the change in trends in the market coupled with the gap in the supply of the product.

Jobless youths can start this project with as little as N6 000. There is no need of youths idling with the excuse that they cannot acquire a loan to start big businesses, when they can start with a project like rabbit keeping.

We fail to advice our boys to start with such small projects and so when they grow up and lack jobs, they start engaging in criminal activities, becoming a menace to the community. Such projects may keep young men occupied and at the end help them achieve their dreams in life leading to a reduction in crime rate.

I urge men who are reading this to help boost consumption of rabbit meat in their homes. Men should make a point of buying at least a kilo of rabbit meat for their family once in a while as the meat is classified as white meat, which is healthy and prevents various lifestyle diseases.

Go organic! Know what you eat! Raise what you eat!

My venturesome search for free rabbit feed

Rabbits now city chickens

WHY RAISING RABBITS IS A GOOD BUSINESS

2019-03-09T00:00:00.000+01:00

Cuniculture

Have you ever considered rabbit farming as a top business opportunity?

Though rabbit meat may not be as common as chicken, beef or pork, there is no doubt it is a very lucrative business; every year, over one million tons of rabbit meat is consumed worldwide.

In Africa, the consumption of rabbit meat is speedily taking off and many farmers on the continent are already enjoying the benefits of this niche business.

Rabbit meat contains the highest amounts of digestible proteins and the lowest cholesterol and fat of all types of meat. In addition, rabbits are easy to raise; they are clean and require little capital, labor, time and space to manage.

Currently, China, Italy, Spain and France are the leading producers of rabbit meat, which has earned a reputation as a ‘super meat’ due to its nutritional and health benefits.

In this post, I have also highlighted some good reasons why you should have to start rabbit farming.

With increased awareness of what makes a healthy diet and the economy in turmoil, now is a good time to consider rabbit farming business.

The profits can come in many ways: You can sell the urine for laboratory use, the manure for fertilizer, even the feet for good luck charms. Selling them as pets will also fetch a reasonable sum. Meat, however, is by far the most important product.

In addition, there is a huge market opportunity for rabbits. The growing rate of heart disease and related ailments has increased awareness of the harmful effects of cholesterol in our diets.

More people are now going for ‘white’ meat which contains low amounts of cholesterol. Unlike ‘red meats’ (especially beef and pork), white meats like ostrich, poultry, fish and rabbit meat contain less fats and cholesterols and have higher health benefits.

Apart from fish, rabbit meat has the highest amount of protein and contains the lowest fat than all other types of meat. It contains less calories and Sodium than other meats but contains more calcium and phosphorus (which is very good).

Because of these properties, rabbit meat has become the ‘super meat’ for people looking to eat healthy meats and live a healthier lifestyle. Rabbit meat is also very widely accepted. Unlike snails and pork, there are hardly any religious or cultural taboos about consuming rabbit meat.

More than 800 million rabbits are slaughtered worldwide every year. The world’s leading rabbit meat production is China, representing over 30% of total global production.

Rabbit meat is very popular in countries such as Italy, Spain, France and China. These countries consume the most rabbit per person (about 8kg per person) and are the best export markets for rabbit meat.

Over the years rabbit farming has become lucrative in countries like Kenya.

They reproduce very fast. A single doe (female rabbit) can give birth to (litter) up to 50 kits (baby rabbits) in a single year. This means you can start with two mature breeding rabbits (one male, one female) and end up with over 50 rabbits in less than 12 months. That is because rabbits can breed throughout the year and it takes just about a month (30-32 days) for a pregnant doe to produce baby rabbits.

After they are born, rabbits grow very fast and can reach maturity and market size in less than 6 months. One of the reasons for this fast growth rate is that rabbits are efficient feed converters. Compared to other livestock animals (poultry, cattle, pigs etc.), rabbits convert up to 20 percent of the proteins they eat into body weight. That is higher than any other animal!

A mature rabbit ready for market can sell for up to $22 (depending on the location and customer). However, the cost of raising a single rabbit comes to about $1 per month.

And because rabbits mature quickly and multiply very fast, they offer one of the best opportunities to quickly recover your costs and investment in a short period.

Let us look at what a male and female bunny can offer: With 30 days gestation period the rabbit is able to produce 8-10 kits in 30 days – one or two may die. An average of 50 kits in a year fits in for our projections. With each set maturing and attaining 2-3kg weight in four months, an average of 100 kg in 17 months.

In Nigeria currently the minimum amount for a kg is N450. In 17 months, one female rabbit would have fetched you N45000. Multiply that by 10 if you were to start with 10 does and you will have N4 500 000. Yes, it is real. That N2000 bunny has made you N45000. No other livestock can do so much.

How to raise meat rabbits

Rabbits are usually disease free animals but negligence is the only factor that causes complications.

Rabbits do not need any elaborate preparation or huge capital to start up. You can start with two rabbits (male and female) using a basic cage made of wood and chicken wire.

Unlike chickens, cattle and pigs, rabbits are not noisy animals. They are very clean animals and do not easily get attacked by diseases.

Also, rabbits do not require a lot of space like other livestock; it is the ideal animal to raise in your backyard or any place with little space.

Raising rabbits is not labour-intensive like cattle and poultry. Rabbits are easy to feed and often do not need a lot of attention. As a result, a rabbit farming business can be run on a part time basis.

Some kitchen waste, grass, plant leaves etc. are favorite foods of rabbits. In fact, a single rabbit needs just about 120 grams of food daily. You can feed it in the morning before you go to work and then in the evening when you return.

Therefore, in terms of capital, time, space and labour needs, rabbit farming beats poultry, pig farming, and cattle farming.

In addition, there are few religious or other taboos on rabbit meat (except in vegetarian cultures). Islam does not prohibit eating rabbit meat, for example.

Rabbit farming is adoptable to any location. They can withstand heat or cold and are less affected by common livestock diseases in the country. For disease management, all that is required is cleanliness and caution then you will not have to worry about vaccination or treatment of diseases.

Rabbits produce high quality skins that are used to make fur garments (like clothing, hats and boots) etc.

Another significant use of rabbits is in cosmetic, medical and pharmaceutical research laboratories. People who want to keep them as pets also purchase rabbits.

Related: It’s no longer rabbit farming

WHY RABBITS?

2019-03-02T00:00:00.000+01:00

Rabbits are the most productive of domestic livestock. A rabbit only takes 6 months to mature. Their gestation period is only 30 days and on average, a female rabbit gives birth to 30 young ones per year.

They are very cheap and easy to feed as they mainly feed local weeds and water. You can as well feed them on rabbit pellets if you can afford them.

They occupy little space hence suitable for most rural farmers who are small scale.

They are quiet animals that can be raised in any environment.

They rarely get sick unless kept in unhygienic conditions.

Their meat is white, high in protein and low in fat and cholesterol. Its health advantages make it high on demand especially in institutions such as restaurants and hospitals.

MY BASIC GUIDE TO BACKYARD RABBIT FARMING

2019-02-23T00:00:00.000+01:00

Alfred(JF)

This article gives a simple and compact guide to starting a successful backyard rabbit farming business.

TERMINOLOGIES

Buck - adult male

Doe - adult female

Kitten - young rabbit

Litter - female with young ones (rabbits) born on the same day by one doe

Hutches - house of rabbits or pen in which rabbits live

Suckling - feeding of the young ones on the mother’s breast milk

Dam - the mother of a set of young rabbits

Sire - the father of a set of young rabbits

Broiler - a young rabbit ready for market

WHY RABBITS?

They are cheap

It is not expensive to keep them. They can be kept in a relatively small space.

Rabbits can eat waste materials, and they are efficient at extracting protein from forage (Samkol and Lukefahr, 2008).

The rabbit's basic shelter needs are modest. It is fortunate that a variety of locally available building materials used in the construction of simple sheds, hutches, nest boxes, hay racks and feeding and watering equipment are generally abundant in tropical developing countries

Suitable shelter for rabbits can be made in an outdoor shed, backyard, veranda or spare room, or a complete hutch (cage with roof and siding) can be constructed. Similarly, accessory equipment, hay racks, nest boxes, salt and feeding and watering containers can be made from a diversity of products, including such refuse items as bottles and tins. Nest boxes made of wood, clay, metal and basket materials are useful for accommodating young litters.

They eat almost anything. Rabbits are herbivores and will consume large quantities of forage (greens), which people do not eat and convert this forage into valuable meat for human consumption. Practically, rabbits can be fed anything from the garden, forest or kitchen including banana and papaya (pawpaw) peels, pineapple cores, corn stalks, weeds, vines from pulses, leaves (cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, carrots) etc. This indicates that rabbits compete minimally with humans for grains.

Products they offer

The skin of rabbits is valuable if there is a market for it, possibly in local handicrafts. Other products include meat, urine

Environment friendliness

Their manure does not smell too much.

Rabbits are quiet and small,

Rabbits do not need force to be restrained.

Because they are noiseless, rabbits can be raised in garages and servants' quarters in urban centers without infringing on the peace of the neighbors.

You don’t have to pluck them.

They are Nutritious

Their meat is nutritious,

They are prolific

Litters (number per birth) are large with short generation intervals (meaning a quick economic return).

Farming with rabbits is becoming increasingly popular business in Nigeria. On a small scale they’re probably the easiest animal to raise, and they’re easy to process.

To start a successful backyard rabbit business one does not need a large initial investment. A few does (females) with a ram or buck (male) is enough to start, once the kindling begins, the herd rapidly increases in size (if done well and with no bad luck) so that very soon one can slaughter the young males.

Contrary to popular belief, rabbits are not rodents and do not belong to the rodent family. Rabbits are Lagomorpha, belonging to the family Lagomorph, which is closely related to horses. Rabbits are livestock, and very good livestock, too, (the cleanest and most disease-free of all).

SELECTING BREEDING STOCK

Do make sure that you buy healthy rabbits with bright eyes, dry noses and clean ears and feet. The rabbit’s fur should be smooth and clean and its teeth in line.

Do not buy a mature female because you cannot always know how old she is. She might for instance have reached the end of her productive life and will be of no use. Long toenails indicate that the rabbit is older.

Select your rabbits from parents which have a good breeding record. A female that does not perform well will also have poor offspring.

Buy breeding stock when they are about 6 months old. Select your rabbits from parents which have a good breeding record. A female that does not perform well will also have poor offspring.

Replace your breeding stock every 3 years and get rid of poor performers.

FEEDING

A rabbit's diet should include grass hay, greens, pellets, fruits (optional), grains/cereals (optional), forage/roots, Kitchen and harvest waste like maize leaves and stalk, cabbage (not too much), watermelon and pineapple peel, yam and potato peel, rice and wheat straw, lettuce. Do not feed cabbage to the female while she is in milk as it can lower milk production. They also enjoy food such as maize meal, rice bran, porridge, bread, weeds and leaves of fruit trees.

See list of plants that are POISONOUS to rabbits.

Do not introduce sudden changes in the rabbit’s diet.

Do not feed rabbits greens that have become heated, food that has been sprayed with pesticides, spoiled food or moldy hay.

Clean water should always be available. Never leave them without water.

Feed the rabbits early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Most of the food should preferably be given late in the afternoon.

You can grow your own green material for rabbit here

BREEDING

Female rabbits are ready to breed when they are 4 to 6 months old and males when they are 5 to 6 months old. Keep the male rabbits in separate cages.

When breeding always put the female into the male’s cage. If the mating was successful the male will roll over. If the female is not ready for mating, she will try to run away. When mating does not take place, the female can be put into the male’s cage for the next 5 to 6 days. The female is more productive during springtime, summer and early autumn. After breeding, pregnancy lasts about one month.

You can learn how to palpate a female rabbit here

Birth

About 25 days after mating, soft dry grass can be placed in a clean dry nesting box for the female. The female will add some of her own fur to the grass. Stay away from the cage at this stage until the babies have been born.

The babies are usually born during the early morning hours. Inspect the babies carefully to see if they are alive and well. Remove dead babies immediately. Try not to touch the babies unless it is absolutely necessary. The female may reject the babies if she picks up your smell on them. It is wise to put a strong-smelling nontoxic substance on the female's nose before handling the babies. The babies should lie close together in the nesting box.

Make sure that the babies are suckling and well nourished. Females, who have babies for the first time, may eat them . The female cannot always feed all the babies if there are too many (rabbits have 8 tits). Some of the babies can then be given to another female who only has a few babies. The babies should be of the same age. Cow’s or goat’s milk is a suitable substitute where the mother cannot rear the babies.

Weaning

The baby rabbits can be weaned from the age of 30 to 35 days. At this stage they can be taken away from their mother. Put the young females and males in separate cages.

Depending on the feeding and management level, the female can be mated again from 2 to 3 days up to 1 month after having given birth.

Young rabbits are usually big enough to be eaten or sold at the age of 3 to 4 months. If you keep them for a longer period they will eat much more and the males will begin to fight nasty if kept together.

EQUIPMENT

Bottle Drinkers

Drinkers

Drinkers should be regularly cleaned and periodically checked for leaks and blockage to ensure availability of water supply.

J Feeders

Feeders

Metal is a logical choice than wood which can be chewed upon by rabbits. Placing feeding troughs outside the cage makes refilling faster and easier. In case crocks or cans are used, they should be placed high enough to minimize contamination/waste and should be tied to the cage to prevent tipping over.

Wire Cages

Cages

Wire cages are recommended over wooden ones because they are durable and are easy to clean and disinfect. Hutches (or cages) with wooden parts are not sanitary and/or convenient to manage. A 76.2 cm x 76.2 cm x 45.7 cm wire cage is large enough for a doe and litter. This cage can be used for each as it allows room for adequate exercise. On the other hand, an 80cm x 60cm x 60cm cage can be used, especially if kits are left with the doe until 8 weeks of age. If kits are not removed at 4 weeks and raised separately, the larger cage will support 7-8 kits to market age (1.8 kg). About 7 grow-out cages are required for every 10 working does.

Different dimensions of nest boxes

Nest boxes

The nest boxes should provide adequate ventilation and protect litter from drafts. A nest box measuring 30.5 x 30.5 x 61 centimeters (cm), with one side cut down to 15.24 cm for the doe to easily go in and out the nest box. The nest box should half filled with straw.

HEALTH MANAGEMENT

Diseases

Rabbits are susceptible to several diseases that reduce production to unprofitable levels. The common diseases of rabbits are scours (also referred to as bloat or mucoid enteritis), coccidiosis, ear mange, sore eyes (weepy eyes), sore hocks and vent disease (rabbit syphilis). In addition, the respiratory disease caused by Pasturella multocida is responsible for decreased productivity and a high mortality rate in does.

To help prevent diseases, observe strict biosecurity. This includes not permitting visitors inside the rabbitry, as they may introduce disease, causing additional stress to the animals.

Clean and disinfect the cages regularly to prevent spread of disease.

Other steps that help to maintain a rabbit herd’s health include:

Isolate new rabbits (or those returning from shows) for 30 days.

Quickly dispose of dead rabbits. In case disease is suspected, disinfect cage and all equipment, and burn droppings.

Clean cages regularly. Clean doe cage before the nest box is put in and before the litter comes out of the nest (about 2 weeks).

Keep water clean.

Control flies and vermin.

RECORD KEEPING

Keeping complete and accurate records is an essential part of herd management, as well as, in measuring performance of a rabbit enterprise. In the absence of accurate records, it will be extremely difficult for the rabbit farmer to make meaningful management decisions. Therefore, it is important that records are accurate and up to date to guide informed management decisions. Accurate records are used to maximize the efficiency of the enterprise. Records are generally used for the purposes of control, assessment and planning. Everyday management decisions are based on key records. Records of breeding, nesting, kindling, purchases, weight culling, replacement selection, feed conversion, mortality and marketing should be maintained.

MARKETING

Rabbits will reach market age at about 8 weeks of age or less. Rabbits may be sold live or dressed. In most cases producers must develop their own markets.

Meat rabbits must have good loins, shoulders, hips and pelts. Rabbits raised for meat are generally marketed as broilers, weighing 2.0 to 2.3 kg live weight. The fur market requires that rabbits have meaty carcasses and clean, top quality pelts. To obtain a satisfactory price, a large number of pelts are usually required. The price of pelts depends on quality. For research work, rigid guidelines may be specified such as a specific age, sex, size or breed. The market for rabbits raised for research is generally handled on a contract basis.

COMMON DISEASES & TREATMENTS

Scours (bloat or mucoid enteritis)

This disease accounts for a high percentage of mortality in young rabbits, with the highest mortality occurring at 4 and 9 weeks of age. The cause of the disease is unknown.

Symptoms

Lack of appetite (anorexia)

Below normal temperature of 38.9 – 39.4 oC

Animal grits its teeth

Intense thirst and bloat may occur because of excessive production of gas disease organisms.

Weight loss of 20 to 25% in 1 or 2 days due to constipation or severe diarrhea

The digestive system is usually full of a watery substance

An excretion of a clear, jelly-like substance

Treatment

Prevention is the best treatment for this disease. You can prevent it by feeding young rabbits only dry food until they are 4 months old, before you introduce green.

However, to treat the disease in other ways, use water soluble chlortetracycline or oxytetracyline at a concentration of 4 g per 4.5 liters.

You might also consider a trip to the nearest vet.

Coccidiosis

This disease is caused by a protozoan, Eimeria sp. Animals that recover from the disease frequently become carriers of this disease. Any rabbit showing signs of coccidiosis should be removed from the herd. The disease is in two forms: liver and intestinal. The so-called nasal coccidiosis results from rabbits contaminating the mucous membranes of their nose while practicing corprophagy (eating their faeces). Corprophagy is normal in rabbits and many other animal species as a way of recycling nutrients, especially B vitamins.

Symptoms

Young rabbits are susceptible to coccidiosis and its symptoms include:

Diarrhea

Poor appetite

Rough hair coats

Retarded growth

Small white spots found on the liver and intestines may be thickened and pale.

Treatment

Coccidiostats are available in the market. For example, sulfaquinoxaline in drinking water at 0.04% continuously for 2 weeks is recommended for the liver type of coccidiosis. Contact your nearest veterinarian for assistance.

Sore hocks (ulcerative pododermatitis)

Sore hocks usually occur on wire floor cages. Sores appear on the hocks and rabbits sit humped and listless. This condition is due to an infection and inflammation of the foot pad.

Treatment

To prevent this, do just these two things; provide a flat board for the rabbits to rest their feet and feed them well.

To treat this however, soak hocks in warm, soapy water and/or apply zinc or iodine ointments to prevent secondary infections. Thereafter, place the animal on clean bedding.

Sore eyes (weepy eyes)

Infected animals have a watery, milky discharge around the eyes because of vitamin A deficiency, infection or injury.

Treatment

Bathe eyes in warm boric acid solution and use an antibiotic ointment of 5 percent sulfathiazole.

Vent disease (Rabbit syphilis)

Infected animals have a raw skin around the vent which may be swollen and covered with scabs. The disease causing organism is spread in breeding. Infected animals should be isolated and scabs removed and thereafter an antibiotic ointment applied on daily basis.

Parasites

Rabbits are intermediate hosts for two tapeworms of the dog. Also, the rabbit is an intermediate host of the cat. Dogs and cats should not be allowed near the rabbits’ feed, water and bedding as they transmit tapeworm eggs in their faeces. Again, dogs and cats should not eat the intestines of rabbits because they may become infected and continue the cycle of infection.

Ear mites (Ear mange, canker)

This is the common parasite infection of the domestic rabbit. An infected rabbit shakes its head and flops or scratches its ears to rid itself of mites. Thick crusts of mites and serum accumulate inside the ear. In severe cases symptoms include spasms of eye muscles and nerve damage leading to partial paralysis and secondary infections.

Treatment

Apply mineral oil into ear every 3 to 4 days.

Swab the ear with a mixture of 1 part iodoform, 10 parts ether and 25 parts vegetable oil. All scales must be removed prior to swabbing.

Repeat treatment 6-10 days after first treatment.

Alternatively, apply swabbing solution in 25-30% emulsion of benzyl benzoate in vegetable oil.

Locally available palm kernel oil (oil extracted from the nut inside the hard kernel, not red oil) can be used in place of any oil above.

If you are a man reading this I urge you to help boost consumption of rabbit meat in your homes. You should make a point of buying at least a kilo of rabbit meat for your family now and then as the meat is classified as white meat, which is healthy and prevents various lifestyle diseases. Doing this will go a long way in improving the health status of the family and the country.

Meanwhile, international organizations and donors including WHO UNO and MSF have issued warnings which have estimate over a million children to die due to malnutrition in the coming years and that 37% Nigerians as malnourished. This is a scathing truth which the Nigerian government must take steps to address urgently.

Venturesome search for free rabbit food

Estimated cost of starting a rabbit business in Nigeria

Why you should start raising rabbits

General outlook of rabbit farming in Nigeria

Snowshoe rabbits

2019-02-16T00:00:00.000+01:00

They're not called Snowshoe for nothing!

Snowshoe hares are well equipped for life in the snow, with their big feet and winter-white coat. In the summer though, their fur turns brown, taking up to ten weeks to change color completely.

fur turns brown in summer

Rabbit production

2019-02-09T00:30:00.000+01:00

14 MUST KNOW FACTS ABOUT RABBIT MEAT PRODUCTION AROUND THE WORLD

This section will consider particularly those terms which are regularly used in rabbit reproduction that have to bear with the process of bringing forth young ones.

Male: The male rabbit is known as the buck.
Female: The female rabbit is known as the doe.
Gestation: The gestation period of a rabbit is 29-35 days.

Litter: The litter size can vary from 4-12 offspring.

Continue:

WEEKEND FLASH SALES

2019-02-08T01:56:00.000+01:00

NZW

Limited stock left, great discount and more:

Delivery within Abuja is pay on delivery
Interested customers should please call 08142438093

All of our New Zealands are purebred, come with pedigrees and reach about six pounds adult weight.

Thank you all for your patronage.

Traditional recipes

2019-02-02T00:00:00.000+01:00

Evening Meal; Agidi with groundnut soup

Ingredients:

1 full rabbit
1 Large onion
Fresh pepper
Salt
Water
Ground nut paste

After skinning and evisceration, the rabbit carcass should be opened, salted and dried in the sun for the whole day.
Following drying, it is then cut into pieces and a minimal amount of water added and cooked in a three-legged pot.
Pepper and onion are grinded and a portion is added to meat
A pinch of salt is added to the meat for taste.
After an hour of simmering, the meat would be nicely cooked and is then removed from the pot leaving a small amount of gravy.
The meat is then deboned and meat ground.
The ground meat is then taken back into the pot containing gravy and mixed with groundnuts meal or peanut butter to make a very delicious relish.
Remaining ground pepper is added.

The mixture is allowed to simmer for a few minutes, after which it is now ready to be served with any meal, especially maize meal (Agidi).

Related: Instant Pot Rabbit Soup

Rabbit Mathematics

2019-01-26T00:00:00.000+01:00

3 Females + 1 Male = 3000 rabbits!

Four out of many that have turned pairs of rabbits into thousands of rabbits

Africa already boasts of a few rabbit farmers who started from nothing but have built remarkably successful rabbit farm businesses. Their success in spite of capital and skill challenges will inspire and encourage you to take action on your.

Four successful African Rabbit Farmers you need to know

Let’s meet them!

JF Rabbits (Nigeria)

JF Rabbits is a commercial rabbitry initiated with the sole aim of producing quality low cost meat to combat the rate of malnutrition in children and adults in the country Nigeria.

JF Rabbits is also the leading producer of quality NZW breeding stock in the country. Since its establishment in 2014, it has continued to produce meat rabbits, pet rabbits, science lab rabbits, rabbit urine and manure for the meat market and for farmers.

Presently, JF Rabbits has 100 productive does and 20 active bucks for its breeding stock, with monthly output of 800 fryers and 9600 fryers annually, making it one of the leading rabbit farmers in the country.

Alfred

According Alfred, the man who started it, he is passionate about what he does and he loves rabbits.

Over the years, JF Rabbits has faced some challenges which have limited to some extent its output figures and that have hindered it from performing optimally. These factors range from extreme weather conditions to lack of government support.

Despite these, JF Rabbits has not relented and has been going places no one would have ever imagined.

With a live fryer going for about N1,000, 9600 fryers pump in N9600000 annually. For Alfred, this is not a bad business at all as his enterprise keeps growing.

Farmer Brown (Ghana)

Adotei Brown (popularly known as ‘Farmer Brown’) quit his Civil Service job in 2002 to start his rabbit farm on a small scale with three does (female rabbits) and one buck (male).

Farmer Brown

With just about 10 Ghanaian Cedis (about $3), he reinvested all his profits into the business. Today, his farm grows nearly 3,000 rabbits every year and slaughters up to 500 every week for sale to grocery stores, restaurants and hotels. The average price for his rabbits is about 20 Ghana Cedis (about $6) and business is booming.

Farmer Brown has become a popular advocate for the consumption of rabbit meat in Ghana. He has a special eatery for rabbit meat on his farm, which attracts visitors, including tourists.

His eatery serves tasty rabbit meat in different forms: grilled, smoked and cooked. He also has a thriving grasscutter (bush meat) farming business that runs side-by-side with the rabbit farm.

Farmer Brown has dedicated himself to training more young people in Ghana to take up rabbit farming. To assure a steady market for the young generation of farmers he trains, he buys mature rabbits from them to ensure they have a steady cash flow from the business.

Moses Mutua, CEO Rabbit Republic (Kenya)

Mr. Rabbit

Popularly known as ‘Mr. Rabbit’ in Kenya, Moses Mutua grew up in a poor family and couldn’t further his education because his family couldn’t afford to pay for it.

Although he always wanted to become a policeman, he never reached that dream. Instead he got a job as a security guard and worked at it for five years before he got fired.

Before he became Mr. Rabbit, Moses had already tried greenhouse farming, fish farming, organic farming, but settled on rabbits because they are the most lucrative domesticated animals in the world in terms of time, space utilization and profit margins.

Moses learned everything about rabbit farming from the internet (by using Google) and finally started a small rabbit farm with just six rabbits. That’s how his company, Rabbit Republic, was born. (photo credit: nafis.go.ke)

Today, Rabbit Republic has a turnover that’s more than Sh10 million (about $100,000) and slaughters about 2,000 rabbits every month.

His business has attracted investors and Moses is currently developing a five-acre farm that will breed about 30,000 rabbits. The video below shows Mr. Rabbit in action on his farm as he explains the profitability of the rabbit farming business and why more entrepreneurs should seriously consider it.

Rabbit Republic now has a network of over 1,000 rabbit farmers across Kenya who receive free training and support and in turn sell their mature rabbits to the company.

This expansion has paid off as Rabbit Republic has now opened shop in neighboring countries; Uganda and Tanzania. But that’s not all. By mid-2015, the company plans to export one ton of rabbit sausages to the US and Europe where the demand for healthy meats (like rabbits) is growing.

Mr. Rabbit wants to make Kenya a major player in the untapped global rabbit meat market. Currently, China, Italy, Spain and France are the leading producers of rabbit meat which has earned a reputation as a ‘super meat’ due to its nutritional and health benefits.
Rabbit Republic is now partnering with universities and local/international organizations to train more youths and women on rabbit farming as a means to alleviate poverty.

Charles Kamau (Kenya)

Charles started a small rabbit farm in 2004 to provide organic fertilizer for his vegetable farm. He lost his job in the hospitality industry and had to do something to feed his young family. His first attempt at raising rabbits was a disaster because he lost all his animals to diseases.

Charles

Despite his frustration, he did some basic research, learned from his mistakes and started again. This time, it was a huge success and he even had to demolish part of his house to create more space for his thriving rabbit business.

Charles Kamau stocks a wide range of rabbit breeds which he sells to new farmers and also slaughters rabbits which we supplies to local meat markets.

His top customers include foreign nationals living in Kenya, restaurants and five-star hotels. In fact, he once got an order from China to supply a consignment of 22,000 pieces of rabbit fur but was unable to meet that huge request. This just shows how big the demand for rabbit products is.

Charles says he is now able to save more than Sh20,000 (about $220) every month from his rabbit business. The business also provides money to feed his family and pay school fees for his children who attend private schools.

A few years ago, he was able to buy some plots of land in Nairobi (Kenya’s capital city) and recently bought a car and a 12-acre property where he is planning to establish a much larger rabbit farm.

Francis Wachira (Kenya)

Kiroko Enterprise farm in Nairobi

“I don’t want to go on this journey alone. I want to encourage others to go with me.” – Francis Wachira, The Rabbit King

Francis Wachira is the farmer there. He grows many different kinds of vegetables to eat and sell. He also keeps goats for milk and meat. But people in Nairobi call him “the Rabbit King.” That is because he sells rabbits for people to eat. They are a main part of the business. Wachira’s farm is very successful.

“People come here from as far away as Tanzania, Uganda, and Sudan, to see what I am doing,”
Ten years ago, Francis planted a few vegetables on an abandoned playground in the neighbourhood of Makadara. Today, he cultivates dozens of crops, and raises geese, guinea pigs, chickens, goats, and – of course – rabbits. Francis tends to as many as 500 rabbits, which he sells to supermarkets and hotels for their meat.

Originally from the Mount Kenya region, Francis is now making his living as an organic farmer just a few kilometres from the skyscrapers of downtown Nairobi, a metropolis of more than three million people.

Rabbit Diseases, Causes and Remedies

2019-01-19T00:00:00.000+01:00

Checking a rabbits health

Rabbits are usually disease free animals but negligence is the only factor that causes complications. The most common diseases and health problems that could affect your herd, what causes them and possible remedies are discussed in this post.

Prevention First of all: It saves costs, prevents stress for care giver and rabbits and above all, prevention is very crucial where there is little knowledge on medications.

Following these simple tips can do much toward keeping rabbits free from disease:

Give rabbits fresh green food to eat. Remove stale food from mangers.
Protect rabbits from intense sun, rain and drafts.
Keep unfriendly dogs away.
Use wire netting for hutch floors. Hutch floors should be "cornerless."
Take sick rabbits away from the other rabbits immediately.
Keep hutch, nest boxes, water cans and mangers CLEAN. Clean wire floors with soap and water after each litter.

Here is are the common diseases of rabbits:

Coccidiosis (Intestinal Infection)

Signs: Diarrhea, a swollen belly. Rabbit sits in a hunched position and will not eat. In severe cases the rabbit staggers around and is not able to keep its balance. This disease attacks rabbits between the ages of 2 and 10 weeks. Coccidiosis can cause death.

Cause: A one-celled animal parasite living in the lining of the rabbit's intestines.

Treatment: Mecryl Powder, Sulphamezathine, Amprol, Sulfaquinoxaline and Eimryl Urgence are used to prevent and treat this disease. Follow the directions for each medication carefully.

This disease is spread through the droppings of infected rabbits. Keep the hutch clean at all times: one dirty corner in the hutch could lead to this disease.

Ear Mange

Signs: Dirty ears. Crusts on inner surface of ear.
Often the rabbit shakes its head or scratches its ears.

Cause: Mites. These insects are so small you can only see them with a magnifying glass. They dig under the skin on the inside of the rabbit's ears and cause pain.

Treatment: Remove the crusts with your fingernail. Go to a pharmacy and ask for a solution of 0.25 percent Lindane in vegetable oil, or a mixture of 2 parts iodoform, 10 parts ether and 25 parts vegetable oil. Swab either one of these solutions inside the ear with a piece of cloth or cotton. Apply again after one week. Check all other rabbits' ears for this problem.

This disease can destroy the centers of balance in the rabbit's inner ear. If a rabbit is not treated for this disease it will result in a condition known as wry neck: the rabbit will hold its head to one side or fall over. Once this happens to a rabbit, it cannot be treated. The best thing to do is prevent it by treating the ear mange promptly.

Colds

Signs: Sneezing and rubbing the nose with the front feet. Fluid will show around the nose. This fluid may be thin and clear, or it may be thick and yellow.

Cause: Several types of bacteria and virus.

Treatment: Reduce the amount of concentrates you are giving your rabbit for a few days. Give the rabbit all the green grass and leaves it wants.

This disease attacks animals in over-crowded, damp, dirty hutches. Protect rabbits from rain and always provide lots of fresh greens to eat.

Related: WHY RABBITS SUDDENLY DIE

Sore Hocks

Signs: Rocking forward on front feet; hind feet show sores on the bottom. Rabbit may lose the fur pad on the sole of the foot, with scales and irritation in this area. If allowed to get worse, the foot bleeds or becomes spongy with pus draining from it.

Cause: Wet or rough floors which rabbits bang their feet upon. Floors that are sharp, that sag too much, or that are filthy, may contribute to this.

Treatment: Soak the affected parts in warm, soapy water until the crusts come off. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Rub in ointment but do not use so much that the foot becomes sticky and picks up dirt (use zinc ointment, petroleum jelly, sulfathiazole ointment).

Keep rabbits undisturbed so they do not bang their feet. Select replacement stock from quiet animals.

Sore Eyes

Signs: Rubbing eyes with feet. Fluid from eye either thin and clear, or thick and yellow.

Cause: Irritation from flies or injury from jagged wire, etc.

Treatment: Clean eyes with boric acid water, or just clean water. Apply ophthalmic ointment (antibiotic, silver oxide, yellow oxide of mercury, Argyrol).

This can often be contagious. Isolate sick animals.

Skin Mange

Signs: The rabbit shows an intense itching, the skin becomes reddened and irritated, the hair comes out, and yellow crusts may be present.

Cause: Mites (similar to ear mange).

Treatment: Wash the affected area with warm soapy water, rinse and dry (important: rabbits can get pneumonia if not dried quickly). Clip the hair away from the edges of the sore area. Rub dry flowers of sulphur into the skin thoroughly. Repeat treatment in four to six days.

Contagious. Isolate infected animals. Clean and disinfect hutches which have been used by diseased animals.

Mucoid Enteritis (Scours or Bloat)

Signs: Drinking but no eating. Rabbits sit hunched up with squinting eyes, grind their teeth, have dull, rough coats, and swollen bellies. They may have diarrhea.

Cause: The cause is not known, but it is not thought to be contagious.

Treatment: No specific treatment known. Take away all food and water for 48 hours; then give small quantities of green food for a few days. Let them have small amounts of water during this time.

Usually affects rabbits at about six weeks of age. Do not confuse this with coccidiosis, which can be treated.

Pneumonia

Signs: Heavy breathing. Rabbit often tilts its head back so that the nose is in the air.
Rabbit moves very little and will not eat. Body temperature, as shown by a thermometer placed in the rectum, is high (39.5 - 41 [degrees] C or 103 - 106 [degrees] F). As the animal gets worse the eyes and ears may show a bluish color because of lack of oxygen.

Cause: Bacteria. Usually comes with other diseases, or if animal is pregnant, nursing young, or chilled and wet. Also attacks very young rabbits.

Treatment: Injections of antibiotics given before the disease progresses too far. The Veterinarian will usually give 200,000 units plus 0.25gm dihydroatreptomycin intra-muscularly (into a muscle) in the hind leg. Keep animal warm and dry, reduce concentrates and give plenty of green feed and and clean water.

The critical time for the doe is two weeks before and two weeks after kindling. Watch the doe closely during these times. Pneumonia also can follow right after many of the other diseases. Watch for it. Treat and isolate infected animals promptly.

Caked Breast (Caked Udder)

Signs: In early cases, the breasts (one or more) are firm, pink and feel hot to the touch. Later on, little knots can be felt in the breasts. Following this, the breasts may darken and become dry and cracked.

Cause: Milk not being taken from the breasts fast enough. Doe may have too few young, or not be letting them nurse.

Treatment: Reduce concentrates and provide plenty of green feed and clean water. Rub Lanolin (or oil or some kind of skin-softening agent) well into the breasts and try to get milk to flow by massaging and encouraging young to nurse. If breasts crack, soften crusts and allow to drain, but do not lance with a knife.

Do not wean all the young rabbits from heavily milking does at the same time; take a few at a time from her. Breed heavy milkers a few days before weaning the young. If a heavy milker loses a litter, breed her again at once. Breeding helps to reduce the milk in the breasts.

Avoid disturbances, particularly at night.

If breasts start getting blue, the doe should have antibiotic injections (Penicillin) at once. Isolate the doe and wash your hands thoroughly before taking care of other does.

According to J.B. Schiere in his book “Backyard rabbit farming in the tropics,” “Do not waste too much time waiting to see what will happen. Use your time and energy for more relevant matters, eat the animal or let somebody else eat the animal. Besides being practical, you will save the animal a lot of suffering. In the long run you are selecting the best and healthiest animals for your further breeding.”

PLEASE NOTE: In order for us to provide healthy and disease free New Zealand White rabbits, we maintain a CLOSED RABBITRY. Potential buyers will, however, be able to see, touch and examine the rabbits enough. Thank you for understanding.

Rabbit Farms and Profit

2019-01-12T00:00:00.000+01:00

Here is how rabbit farms become profitable.

When farmers begin planning their rabbit farms, they will need to formulate a plan, which will often need to be submitted to an agricultural or planning board in your area in which you wish to set up this venture.

Rabbit meat is very high in protein and low in fat. Being low in calories per weight, it's not ideal for sustaining hard labor, but it can definitely do in a pinch. Rabbits also have one of the most efficient feed-growth ratios, keeping feeding costs way down. You could get about 70 lbs of fryer meat a year out of each doe, and one buck can service 8-10 does. In addition to meat, rabbits also provide great nitrogen-rich fertilizer, and their pelts are very soft and supple.

Most rabbit farms have 2 litter pens per doe, a cage per buck, and a few other extra cages for raising replacement breeders. Litter pens are ideally a minimum of 30x30 inches. I recommend 24x24 cages for bucks and replacement breeders. Cages can be all wire, or wooden hutches (with wire). I prefer all wire cages as they are easier to keep clean (you can even clean them with a torch), and they can be maintained individually. I like to stack cages 2 to 3 tiers to save on floor space, but doing so requires dropping pans to be mounted under the cages, which have to be dumped frequently to avoid fly problems. Single-tier cages can just let the droppings fall to the floor, or into the garden or compost.

Letting the droppings fall onto well-drained soil is a great way to have a nearly odor-and-fly-free operation. When figuring out where to put the cages, keep in mind that rabbits do not handle getting wet very well.

Most rabbit farms keep the rabbits in a barn which is a great way to keep the weather off them, as well as provide shade. Sometimes it works better (especially for ventilation) to keep them outside. In that case, you will want to make sure they have a roof, and walls protecting them from the predominate weather directions with only the door side of the cage open.

For feeders on rabbit farms, I recommend externally-mounted metal J feeders. Metal feeders may have a diamond-shaped mesh or riveted hardware cloth for the bottom to sift fines. Hardware cloth isn't very hardy against abuse, though. I've never had a rabbit destroy it; instead, it was a dog that decided that the rabbit feed tasted really good. The final reason I prefer metal feeders is that they are usually mounted to the cage using a couple of bent wires, and can be maintained completely from the outside of the cage.

To provide water on rabbit farms, I recommend getting the opaque (usually white) bottles rather than clear. My favorites are 32 oz., although some people get by with 16 oz. for meat breeds, and they do make half gallon and gallon-sized bottles. They also make kits that will let you turn any pop bottle (I recommend 2-liter) into a water bottle, although you will have to replace the bottles frequently (as much as twice a year). If you live where it freezes during the winter and you're not keeping the rabbits in a heated shelter, I recommend two bottles per cage so you can swap frozen for thawed during the winter. If you choose not to double up, you will have to force thaw the bottles twice a day using a pot of hot water (or running hot water from the tap). The other option, which is an amazing time-saver if you have several rabbits, is an automatic watering system, which usually consists of a bucket kept above the cages, and a series of pipes, tubes and valves. There are products on the market for keeping the pipes and bucket from freezing.

Other equipment on rabbit farms that I recommend for each breeder are sitting boards (rabbits will get sores on their feet if they are kept on wire all the time) and chewing logs (fruit tree are ideal, followed by other hardwoods; pine/cedar are NOT recommended).

Rabbits are also susceptible to heat stroke at temperatures over 80*F. Most rabbit farms recommend two frozen 2-liters per cage, such that there is one in the cage at all times the temperature is over 80, and the other is being re-frozen.

Rabbit farms also have nestboxes for the does. Nestboxes should be just barely big enough for a doe to fit in it, and turn TIGHTLY around to get out. You don't want to encourage her to hang out in there. Nest boxes can be made of wood or metal or both. I prefer metal nest boxes with a removable wooden floor.

Most rabbit farms feed pellets. Most adult rabbits will each about 4-5 oz. of pellets a day, and you will want to keep that regulated, as obesity can cause infertility. Pregnant, nursing and growing rabbits can be given free feed. Hay can also be free fed with pellets to all ages. Anything that causes gas will cause the rabbit to bloat and die (they can't pass gas). Many plants are poisonous to rabbits, so when in doubt, don't feed it.

Rabbit farms and Rabbit breeds

There are a few choices of breeds available for good meat production. The best meat rabbits have mature weights in the 9-12 lb range, 10-11 being the most efficient producers. The next thing to look at is structure. You want a rabbit that has a "commerical" body type, which means full shoulders with a smooth, high slope over the loins and down the hips. They should have good breadth as well, not racy like a jack rabbit. The most popular meat rabbits are New Zealands, Californians, and to a slightly lesser extent, Palominos.

Some breed young rabbits as young as 6 mos., but 8-9 mos. is usually the ideal age for their first breeding. Once a doe is about 10 mos. old (except in some of the giant breeds), if she hasn't been bred before, her productivity will be lower due to fat deposits around her ovaries, so try not to let a doe go more than 10 months without breeding her.

To breed rabbits, take the doe to the buck's cage. Reasons for this is that a buck may get too preoccupied with exploring the new cage to bother with his business, and does will attack a rabbit that is invading her territory (male or female), and have been known to reject (even kill) litters born in a cage that she has shared with a buck. The other option is to take them to a neutral cage or space. Most rabbits will know what is expected of them once put together.

NZW

Related: Related: Rabbit breeds description

Occasionally, on your rabbit farms, you need to help them figure it out (the buck may mount the wrong end, or the doe may try to mount). Some does will put their rump in a corner and be defensive. In this case, you can choose to hold the doe for the buck (just grasp her ears, and with your hand under her belly, push her rear end up a little bit), or wait another day before trying again (does usually won't go more than a day or two without being receptive).

The buck will grunt/squeal and fall sideways off the doe once he has done his business. Remove the doe immediately to prevent fights. You may want to bring the doe back to the buck for a second breeding after another 1-6 hours to increase the litter size. Rabbits are induced ovulators, so the breeding itself is what causes the doe to ovulate; they don't go into heat.

Rabbit gestation is usually 28-32 days, although I have seen does give birth as early as 25 days and as late as 38 (although the kits have always been stillborn any time past 35). You will want to put a nestbox filled with straw (hay can also be used although the doe will eat a lot of it, or newspaper shreds in a pinch; do not use cedar or pine shavings as the oil can irritate the kits, and small particles can get in their noses). I usually put nestboxes in 25 days after breeding, just in case, but many breeders say to wait until day 28. The idea is that you don't want to give her the nestbox too early or she may start using it as a litter box. Check the nestbox every morning for kits (they will usually kindle at night, although it's not a bad idea to also check periodically through the day, just in case she doesn't wait for dark). I usually just glance in from outside the cage to avoid stressing the doe. If there is fur in the box, she has most likely kindled or is in labor. Does start to pull fur when they go into labor, and they use it to line their nests for their kits.

How to check for pregnancy

Related: Is the rabbit pregnant?

When the kits are born, it’s a good idea to rub vanilla extract on the doe's nose before you handle the kits, so she won't be able to smell you on them. Rabbits will cannibalize their kits if they feel they've been compromised. Check the box as soon as you suspect there are kits in there. If there are any kits on the wire that are still alive, you can put them into the nestbox. Remove any dead kits from the cage (on the wire or in the nest box). Most does can care for 8 kits, and some "super mamas" can raise 12. It's a good idea to have a couple of does kindle within a couple days of each other, so that they can even out their litter sizes.

Kits are born blind, deaf and hairless. They will usually start to show thin fur about day 3. Ears start to open up around a week, and eyes usually open about 8-12 days. Once the kits' eyes are open, you can remove the nest box, although you can wait a couple more days to let their fur come in a little thicker. I usually remove the nest box at about 14 days old. In winter, I might wait to 21 days. The longer you leave the kits in the nest box, the greater the risk of respiratory infection.

Litters can be weaned as early as 3 wks, although the recommended weaning age is around 6 wks, and can be left on their mother as late as 8 wks. You can choose to move the doe to a new cage, or move the kits to a new cage.

Do not keep bucks and does older than 12 weeks together. I've had an 8 wk old doe get pregnant, so it's never too early to separate them.

Fryers are butchered at 8-12 wks. At that age, they should be 3-6 lbs, and should yield about 55% including liver and heart. Rabbits can be butchered later than that, but their meat will get tougher, and are better suited for roasting at that point. Over 6 mos. old they're only good for stew. Past 10 wks of age, their feed: growth ratio drops off considerably, so it becomes less cost effective.

To maintain productivity of the doe, it is best to aim for at least 2 litters per year from each doe. If you want to maintain a good return on investment, breed the doe back 4 weeks after her kits are born, and wean the kits at 6 weeks, giving her 2 weeks to recuperate before nursing again.

Rabbit Farms and Kits

Successful rabbit farms know when the kits are being born, it’s a good idea to rub vanilla extract on the doe's nose before you handle the kits, so she won't be able to smell you on them. Rabbits will cannibalize their kits if they feel they've been compromised. Check the box as soon as you suspect there are kits in there.

If there are any kits on the wire that are still alive, you can put them into the nestbox. Remove any dead kits from the cage (on the wire or in the nest box). Most does can care for 8 kits, and some "super mamas" can raise 12. It's a good idea to have a couple of does kindle within a couple days of each other, so that they can even out their litter sizes.

Do not keep bucks and does older than 12 weeks together. I've had an 8 wk old doe get pregnant, so it's never too early to separate them.

Fryers are butchered at 8-12 wks. At that age, they should be 3-6 lbs, and should yield about 55% including liver and heart. Rabbits can be butchered later than that, but their meat will get tougher, and are better suited for roasting at that point. Over 6 mos. old they're only good for stew. Past 10 wks of age, their feed:growth ratio drops off considerably, so it becomes less cost effective.

Summary of Rabbit Farms:

Rabbit farms are profitable if you learn how to avoid costly mistakes.

Rabbit farming is a great hobby and also enjoyable.

Related: The Lagomorpha Bank

Basic steps to prevent diseases in rabbits

2019-01-05T00:00:00.000+01:00

Prevention of diseases in rabbits

Some basic steps to prevent disease problems in your herd are:

Try to avoid buying at the marketplace where many unknown germs come together. Try to buy from respected breeders, or farmers with clean housing and healthy looking animals. Inspect the animals anyway and after bringing them home keep them separated from your other animals (quarantine) for at least 2 weeks.

Make routine checks on the health of your animals on the following points:

Check nose, eyelids, ear edges for mange (little crusts), inside the ear for ear mite.

Check the manure. It should be dry not somewhat pasty.

Feel the stomach, to check that it is not spongy. This requires some practice.

Check nose and front legs, certain coughs produce a kind of snot which then makes the front legs dirty.

Check for the smell in the hutch, diarrhea/enteritis often causes a dirty smell. When the doe is lactating she is under stress and more liable to suffer an attack from intestinal germs (always present) such as coccidiosis. Sometimes the nest box needs cleaning.

Make a hutch design and use materials which permit easy cleaning. In this respect bedding (straw, etc.) has more disadvantages in the warm tropics than advantages. So do not use bedding although in Europe or USA that is the way it is (or was) done.

Sample hutch designs/models

Clean the hutches every day, keep them dry. If you suspect disease, disinfect! Certainly you will have all kinds of local disinfectants like Izel, Detol, lye solutions (lime, sodium), Teepol, formaline or formol (watch out; very strong); if necessary you can use kerosene if nothing else is available. Do not forget soap or bleaching agents like soaps containing chlorine. Not all, but most of these disinfectants have a strong smell which hurts the respiratory tract of man and animal alike. Keep the animal away if you are cleaning with the stronger agents and do not put it in a cage which still smells. A good and harmless disinfectant, always cheap but not always available is sunshine.

Keep animals away from their manure; slatted floors and no (deep) litter are to be preferred.

Separate animals you suspect are ill so they do not infect healthy animals.

If you want to be really careful, do not let visitors get close, have a bath with disinfectant at the doorstep and add your own variations on this road to 100% infection prevention.

Clean fresh air in the stable is essential, a strong manure smell is no good, even though there are large differences between individual noses, your own nose is your best measuring guide. If you cannot stand it, the rabbits probably cannot either.

Related: Why rabbits suddenly die

SEASONS GREETINGS

2019-01-01T00:00:00.000+01:00

We wish you happy CHRISTMAS and NEW YEAR.

JF RABBITS NIGERIA

Our Products and Services include:

Breeding of Rabbits
Sale of live Rabbits
Sale of frozen Rabbits
Breeding of Guinea Pigs
Sale of live Guinea Pigs
Consultancy Services for Rabbit & Guinea Pig Farms
Training
Rabbit production material (Books, Videos etc.)
Technical support
Breeding stock
Rabbit cages and hutches

Our rabbits are raised in rabbitries under the supervision of highly experienced Rabbit Breeders and Producers. We do not use antibiotics from weaning as we know what the rabbit wants!

Location: Bwari-Duste, Abuja, Nigeria

Tel: 08129001124, 08142438093
Facebook user id : jfrabbits1
Facebook page: Rabbits Nigeria
Twitter: @ jfrabbits1
Email:alfredj442@gmail.com

Rabbit Housing

2018-12-29T00:30:00.000+01:00

Sample plan

Rabbit Housing should be aimed at providing adequate shelter, a healthy and comfortable environment and reduce labor requirements to a minimum and at a low cost of formation.

The rabbit spends its entire life in its cage and hence needs sufficient space to avoid the stress caused by restriction of movement. Vertical space is as important as horizontal space if the rabbit is to carry out its normal activities including stretching up its hind legs.

Protection:

Protection is required from injury within the cage, from rain, direct sunlight, direct and indirect wind, sudden noises, predators such as dogs, cats, rats, snakes and very importantly poachers.

Convenience and Ease of Management:

If the rabbit is to be well managed, the hutch should be designed to assist the keeper in carrying out daily activities such as observation, handling, feeding, mating, and cleaning.

Male and female rabbits from three to four months old should be kept in separate cages. Ideally, every fully-grown rabbit should have its own cage.

Related: Rabbit housing models

WEEKEND FLASH SALES

2018-12-28T00:00:00.000+01:00

Cottontail Rabbit

Limited stock left, great discount and more:

Delivery within Abuja is pay on delivery
Interested customers should please call 08142438093

All of our Cottontails are purebred, come with pedigrees and reach about six to seven pounds adult weight.

JF RABBITS WISHES YOU A HAPPY CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR

2018-12-25T06:00:00.000+01:00

We wish you happy CHRISTMAS and NEW YEAR.

JF RABBITS WISHES YOU A MERRY CHRISTMAS

2018-12-25T00:00:00.000+01:00

We want to sincerely appreciate our dear customers for patronizing us in the year 2018. To Mr. Emmanuel, Mrs. Chioma Jonathan, Miss Floxy, Master Shallom, Madam Funke and other customers that are too numerous to mention, we are saying THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Without you we wouldn't have come this far.

We wish you happy CHRISTMAS and NEW YEAR

JF RABBITS NIGERIA

Our Products and Services include:

Breeding of Rabbits
Sale of live Rabbits
Sale of frozen Rabbits
Breeding of Guinea Pigs
Sale of live Guinea Pigs
Consultancy Services for Rabbit & Guinea Pig Farms
Training
Rabbit production material (Books, Videos etc.)
Technical support
Breeding stock
Rabbit cages and hutches

Our rabbits are raised in rabbitries under the supervision of highly experienced Rabbit Breeders and Producers. We do not use antibiotics from weaning as we know what the rabbit wants!

Location: Bwari-Duste, Abuja, Nigeria

Tel: 08129001124, 08142438093
Facebook user id : jfrabbits1
Facebook page: Rabbits Nigeria
Twitter: @ jfrabbits1
Email:alfredj442@gmail.com

NUTRITION FOR MEAT RABBITS

2018-12-22T00:30:00.000+01:00

One of the most important factors that will influence success of any commercial rabbit meat production according to Walsingham, 1972, is proper feeding that will influence the rabbits growth, fertility and health. Meat rabbits of all breeds ought to get top nutrient rich diet for fast growth and good carcass at slaughter age.

Some foodstuffs given to meat rabbits contain a lot of protein (especially fresh greens); some are sources of energy (like rice bran, tubers, etc.). Protein and energy, as well as minerals are of importance. In addition, amount of feed to give a rabbit depends very much on the state of production. A lactating mother needs a lot of concentrate feed (grain, tubers) besides greens, to maintain her bodyweight and produce milk for her young. Young rabbits also need some concentrated feed for growing.

Apart from energy and protein, minerals are also an important ingredient in the diet. Greens and concentrates contain a lot of minerals. Nevertheless it is advisable to add some minerals in the form of salt to the food. For example, when feeding rice bran, one spoon of salt mixed with 1 kg of bran will be sufficient. If there is a local specialist or experienced breeder around ask them what they advise about the supply of minerals.

Related: Feeding behavior of rabbits

The type of nutrition for meat rabbits can sometimes be constrained by the available source from which these nutrients can be gotten (their availability, cost, perishability and digestibility).

When young rabbits are separated from a doe at two months old, they are kept in groups, fattened with top nutrition till they reach the weight for slaughter at four to five months.

I have highlighted below major sources of meat rabbit nutrition:

hay-hay-hay!

Grass hay:

In addition to being used by a doe to make her nest when she gives birth, grass hay is great to feed meat rabbits daily. It’s high in fiber which aides in digestion. Many breeders agree to the fact that alfalfa is great hay source, but you will want to avoid feeding your rabbits straight alfalfa hay. Alfalfa is not a grass; it’s a legume and often fed to horses, goats, cows and other ruminants to add protein to their diet. Plant protein is good for rabbits, but alfalfa also contains a comparatively high amount of calcium. High calcium levels can cause “sludge” constancy and eventually kidney stones. A grass/alfalfa blend is also fine.

In addition, timothy grass is great, brome and orchard and any other straw grass are good too.

Wheat / barley heads

Wheat / barley:

These are great for growing kits as they’re easily digested for the newly weaned. Some people will keep a separate dish of wheat in a cage with young (2+ weeks old) kits. In addition, wheat helps the mother to produce more milk for her kits, which will convert to better growth and less loss of kits to death.

Calf Manna:

This is in a class on its own. Calf manna is a brand of supplement designed to promote milk production in many different species of animals. A couple tsp. of Calf Manna a day for pregnant or nursing does can be a great way to make sure she’s making enough milk for her kits (meat breeds generally have very large litters) and make sure she maintains good body condition throughout pregnancy and nursing so you can breed her back sooner.

bush trimmings

Weeds, lawn trimmings and bush trimmings:

The useful wild plants for meat rabbits include young trees, leaves and shoots; dandelion and Plantain. Rabbits love dandelions so much that you might find yourself growing them in your yard (on purpose). They like fresh grass cuttings too. A lot of people will create a little pen of wire fencing to let rabbits roam around and forage (while their owner cleans cages) this is great but make sure that there are no poisonous weeds available to them! Another option is the rabbit tractor more on this setup here

Samples of Rabbit tractor

Vegetables for rabbits

Vegetables:

With a small operation, it may be economical to reduce the amount of pellets by feeding rabbits available greens. Greens and succulents include fresh legumes (alfalfa, clover), grasses, vegetables (lettuce, celery), roots and tubers (carrots, potatoes), weeds (dandelions), and comfrey. Clean table scraps that fit into these categories are also acceptable. If greens complement a pelleted diet, the amount of pellets can be reduced by 50% without lowering rabbit production.

Pelleted rabbit feed

Commercial Pellets:

Most meat producers chose to feed only commercial pelleted diet which is balanced in the necessary nutrients (protein, energy, vitamins, and minerals). These diets contain alfalfa, grain (barley, wheat mill byproducts), protein supplements (soybean meal), vitamins, and mineral supplements. The last part of a rabbit’s intestines contains bacteria which produce vitamin B-complex and vitamin C. So the Vitamins A, D and E are needed in the diet and should be in the pelleted feed.

As you go along, you will find that hay and grass are important for the rabbit’s gut and must be available at all times. Make sure that any commercial food you provide is high quality and contains high amount of fiber. When you feed pellets, allow 25g (an egg cup-full) of pellets per kg of each rabbit’s body weight.

Always remember, what you feed a meat rabbit is what you should expect to see, in terms of meat. Even though rabbits generally have high feed to meat conversion ratio, you will not want to gamble with my rabbits diet so she doesn’t toy with your investment.

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CLIMATE AND RABBIT NUTRITION

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Biometeorology is the study of the relationship between the environment and living organisms.
In homoeothermic animals, the goal is to maintain a stable body core temperature under most conditions.

Earth in danger of heating

Environment affect nutrition:

Ambient temperature and humidity are the variables that most affect nutrition. Both directly influence the energy equilibrium of the animal, changing the flow of heat between the animal and the environment.

Definition of thermal neutrality:

The range of ambient temperature as an expression of thermal environment within which metabolic rate are at minimum and temperature regulation is achieved by non-evaporative physical process alone.

How rabbits control body temperature

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The spread posture at 30°C allows more sensible heat to be dissipated.

Related: Earth is fast heating up

The Ears:

The ears are a means of dissipating heat. Their heat exchange coefficient about four times the coefficient for the whole animal.

In a wind of 60 m/s, fully dilated ears can lose twice as much heat as ears in non-forced convection.

Most rabbits die after a few days? exposure to 40°C.

Heat stress affects health and nutrition:

Exposure to high ambient temperatures induces rabbits to try to balance the excessive heat load by using different heat dissipation pathways. If such means are not sufficient then physiological traits deteriorate, including depression in feed intake, efficiency and utilization, disturbances in water, protein, energy and mineral metabolism balances, enzymatic reactions, hormonal secretions and blood metabolites.

Thermal stress directly affects reproduction, health and nutrition, and all of these interact with each other. The overall result for animals exposed to thermal stress is always a reduction in productivity, which varies according to the severity of the stress and the acclimatization of the animal.

Depressed feed intake and increased water consumption are the most important reactions to heat exposure. At 30°C rabbits consume only 60-70% of the feed intake recorded at 20°C. In contrast, water requirement increase by 50% as the temperature rises from 18°C to 28°C.

Blood metabolites such as glucose, serum total protein, serum total lipid and cholesterol decrease, which may be correlated to the decrease in energy metabolism during heat exposure.

Nutritional value of feedstuffs:

In tropical countries, the nutritive value of forages is relatively low, with high indigestible fibre.

Forage alone cannot support high performance in either growth or lactation. Supplementation of pelleted diets with potential energy sources, including roots, tubers, fruits and grain by-products, has generally demonstrated that 50-70% of pellets can be replaced by green forages, by-products or roots without a significant reduction in growth performance.

Related article: Nutritional value of rabbit feed stuffs

Nutrient allowances in different environment:

The adverse effect of temperature on efficiency and production should be minimized by adjusting nutrient levels. Assuming that maintenance needs for protein are not influenced by thermal stress, the protein/energy ratio is increased during both cold and heat stress, resulting in excess protein being used an energy source. The practical approach in cold conditions is to increase dietary energy levels.

The consequences of hot environments on feed intake, which means less protein being ingested and reduced growth, have generally resulted in recommending higher levels of protein in warm climates.

The addition of some amino acids, particularly lysine, has alleviated the effect of heat.

High-energy diets have been reported to overcome the lower energy intake in hot environments.

Increased voluntary intake in cold conditions tends to overcome any marginal deficiency in nutrients, although not in energy.

A smaller proportion of dietary protein is needed, and more protein is utilized as an additional energy source.

A high-fat diet has been shown to be most effective means of maintaining body temperature.

The addition of probiotics in hot climates and/or adding disodium or dipotassium carbonate has proved to be effective at high temperature.

The water to food intake ratio of about 2 has been recorded for adult rabbits fed ad libitum at 20°C.

There is a rise in the ratio of water intake to DM intake up to 2.4 between 20°C and 30°C.

Drinking cool water has sometimes been recommended in hot situations.

Effect of heat stress on breeding does:

High ambient temperature appears to act on reproduction both directly and through the depression of voluntary feed intake. Does kept at 35°C die within 72h.

One action would seem to increase the DE of diets with more cereals or by adding fat.

Although under normal conditions does compensate for different diet density through corresponding changes in feed intake. Some added fat elicits a better response from does, perhaps related to high milk-fat output.

Low-energy diets gave a poorer response at 30°C constant temperature, while no statistical

difference was found between the high-energy diets.

Related article: Effects of heat stress on breeding does PDF

Effect of heat stress on males

High ambient temperatures have adverse effects in bucks, potentially producing temporary sterility, decreasing libido, delaying age at first mating and reducing semen quality and quantity.

The effects of heat stress may be due to a decrease in testosterone concentration and spermatogenesis and become more pronounced when relative humidity is high. High-energy diet alleviates the negative effects of high temperature.

Zinc supplementation has been found to reduce the depression of semen production.

Related article: Effect of heat stress on male rabbits

Effect of heat stress on growing rabbits:

Voluntary feed intake varies according to weather conditions are cold or warm. A reduction in intake occurs at 22-25°C, and certainly impaired growth is assured around 30°C.

A reduction of 25% in feed intake, comparable with the percentage observed in hot climates, should be balanced by about the same increment of dietary nutrients. Both increasing DE by some 10% and increasing protein and lysine, found no improvement in average daily weight gain in rabbits kept at 30°C.

When comparing low- and high-fat diets, while gains at moderate temperatures of 12°C and 18°C were similar, at 24°C, 30°C and 33°C the use of high-fat diets slightly improved growth performance.

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Advantages of rabbit meat

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Oven roasted rabbit

The meat of rabbits may not be totally new to everyone reading this. I have outline the updated advantages of consuming rabbit meat both health wise and pocket wise.

To help you know more about the new “Super Meat” as Micheal Pollan calls it I have outline the following advantages of having rabbit meat in your diet.

It is one of the best white meats available on the market today.
The meat has a high percentage of easily digestible protein which is good for young children and aged parents with fragile digestive systems.
It contains the least amount of fat among all the other available meats.
Rabbit meat contains low calorie value when compared to the other meats.
Rabbit meat is almost cholesterol free and therefore heart patient friendly.
The sodium content of rabbit meat is comparatively less than other meats.
The calcium and phosphorus contents of this meat is more than any other meats.
The ratio of meat to bone is high meaning there is more edible meat on the carcass.

Easy Recipes

Related: How to make rabbit stew

9. Rabbit meat with the many health benefits does not have a strong flavor and is comparable to chicken but not identical.

10. Rabbits are one of the most productive domestic livestock animal there is. Rabbits can produce 6 pounds of meat on the same feed and water as the cow will produce 1 pound of meat on the same feed and water.

If not for improving your health, then just imagine the taste and softness! There is no reason why you should not try this wholesome, healthy and tasty meat today!

Breeding rabbits

Commercial Rabbitry Training

Commercial rabbitry training

Complement of the season

Adventures Of Somebunny

WHY YOU SHOULD START RAISING RABBITS IN YOUR BACKYARD

WHY RAISING RABBITS IS A GOOD BUSINESS

How to raise meat rabbits

WHY RABBITS?

MY BASIC GUIDE TO BACKYARD RABBIT FARMING

TERMINOLOGIES

WHY RABBITS?

They are cheap

Products they offer

Environment friendliness

They are Nutritious

They are prolific

SELECTING BREEDING STOCK

FEEDING

See list of plants that are POISONOUS to rabbits.

You can grow your own green material for rabbit here

BREEDING

You can learn how to palpate a female rabbit here

Birth

Weaning

EQUIPMENT

Drinkers

Feeders

Cages

Nest boxes

HEALTH MANAGEMENT

Diseases

RECORD KEEPING

MARKETING

COMMON DISEASES & TREATMENTS

Scours (bloat or mucoid enteritis)

Symptoms

Treatment

Coccidiosis

Symptoms

Treatment

Sore hocks (ulcerative pododermatitis)

Treatment

Sore eyes (weepy eyes)

Treatment

Vent disease (Rabbit syphilis)

Parasites

Ear mites (Ear mange, canker)

Treatment

Snowshoe rabbits

Rabbit production

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Charles Kamau (Kenya)

“I don’t want to go on this journey alone. I want to encourage others to go with me.” ­­­– ­­­­­­­ Francis Wachira, The Rabbit King

Rabbit Diseases, Causes and Remedies

Here is are the common diseases of rabbits:

Coccidiosis (Intestinal Infection)

Ear Mange

Colds

Sore Hocks

Sore Eyes

Skin Mange

Mucoid Enteritis (Scours or Bloat)

Pneumonia

Caked Breast (Caked Udder)

Rabbit Farms and Profit

Here is how rabbit farms become profitable.

Rabbit farms and Rabbit breeds

Rabbit Farms and Kits

Basic steps to prevent diseases in rabbits

Prevention of diseases in rabbits

SEASONS GREETINGS

Rabbit Housing

Protection:

“I don’t want to go on this journey alone. I want to encourage others to go with me.” – Francis Wachira, The Rabbit King