JeepGuide

Bestop Entry Guards Install

2015-01-01T05:07:00.002-08:00

Bestop Entry Guards Install
January 2002

The install consisted of removing the strip from the double-sided sticky tape that came attached to the guards. Placement on the Jeep's door frame was probably the easiest modification to the Jeep we've made. These entry guards are still secured solidly to the door frame of this Jeep and have been protecting the door frame for 13 years.

CSF Radiator Install

2014-12-31T05:45:00.004-08:00

CSF Radiator Install
December 2005

The following images document the removal of the factory radiator and the installation of a CSF Radiator on a 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ Automatic 6-Cylinder.

Factory radiators are prone to leaking. The crimped metal that holds the very top of the radiator to the radiator body works loose over time, causing a small leak of anti-freeze. We used to tighten the crimps with a punch and hammer to slow the leak. One cold morning the top cracked and we were forced to use Permatex Epoxy (life saver) on the crimp area to stop a bad leak. We purchased a new radiator that did not have a crimp design, the CSF Radiator, and here's the install process.

The first part of removing the stock radiator was to remove the overflow reservoir. We removed the reservoir hose from the radiator by pulling on it. Then, we removed the reservoir itself by pressing the button highlighted in the below image and pulling up on the reservoir. This removed it from the fan shroud.

We then removed the silver colored radiator cap. After which, we drained the anti-freeze from the radiator by turning the valve at the bottom of the radiator. If we had no valve, we would have drained the fluid when we detached the hoses in subsequent steps.

After we gave the intake hose a few squeezes to flush any residual fluid out, we removed the hose by loosening the hose crimps and wiggling it free.

Image of the hose removed.

We located the output hose at the bottom of the radiator and disconnected it. This hose contains fluid, so we had a bucket ready. It was not necessary to remove the hose completely, we just disconnected it from the radiator.

We were working on a Jeep with an automatic transmission, so we needed to disconnect the two hoses that transfer automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to cool the transmission. A bucket was needed here to catch the fluid. Once disconnected, we propped the hoses upward to keep in any additional ATF from spilling and being wasted.

Image showing the disconnected hoses.

Using an 11mm socket, we removed the 2 drivers side screws holding the fan shroud to the radiator.

Using an 11mm socket, we removed the 2 passenger side screws holding the fan shroud to the radiator.

After all 4 screws were removed, the fan shroud can be pulled away from the radiator. We left it propped on the fan.

There are 6 bolts holding the stock radiator to the Jeep body. The three on the drivers side are located in the picture below and required a 10mm socket to remove.

Also using a 10mm socket, we removed the 3 passenger side bolts.

With the bolts removed, we lifted the stock radiator out of the Jeep. The fan shroud stayed propped on the fan, out of the way.

Image of the removed radiator. A thin radiator remains, for the air conditioning. Note the stock radiator in the distance.

The fins on radiators are extremely fragile, so we took extreme care not to brush them against any surface as we slowly lowered the new radiator into the Jeep. Removal of the fan and fan shroud was not needed.

We then installed the 6 bolts to hold the radiator in place.

We then installed the 4 bolts to hold the fan shroud to the new radiator.

Image of the new radiator and old fan shroud bolted in place.

We re-attached all three bottom hoses.

Image of the hoses re-attached.

We then connected the top hose.

Bottom hoses re-attached.

We used a hose clamp on the bottom hoses instead of the stock clamps to get a tighter seal. The stock hoses were a little dry rotted. We eventually replaced the hoses.

We installed the reservoir and reservoir hose. We used a hose clamp on the reservoir hose. We filled the reservoir with anti-freeze to the fill line.

We added anti-freeze directly to the radiator via the top cap, which we also installed. Note the hose clamp on the reservoir hose to get a good seal.

We then added ATF to the transmission to compensate for lost ATF from the old radiator.

We ran the vehicle, checked for leaks, and applied fluid to get us to the proper levels.

Removing A Wrangler (TJ) Center Floor Console

2014-12-28T15:58:00.000-08:00

Removing A Wrangler (TJ) Center Floor Console
October 2004

The following images document the removal of the center floor console of a 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ Automatic.

STEP 1

We started by removing the first screw, located in the front cup holder.

STEP 2

We then removed two screws located in the center console storage compartment.

STEP 3

Then we removed the screws at the based of the center console. We slid/collapsed the front seats forward to access them.

STEP 4

We then pried out the display of the automatic shifter with a flat screw driver.

STEP 5

We also popped out the airbag panel that sits in front of the automatic shifter.

STEP 6

Before we removed the center console, we put engaed the e-brake, put the transmission in 4-low, and removed the automatic shifter handle. This helped with being up to simply pull up on the console assembly and slide it up and out of the area.

The shifter T-handle is shown still attached in this picture. To remove it, we simply pulled up very hard and it popped off. If we left the shifter T-handle on, it's possible to remove the console, but it takes time to get the angles correct. We re-installed the shfiter T-handle by placing it on the shifter stem and pressing down.

STEP 7

This image shows the center console removed.

STEP 8

Closer picture of the transmission and transfer case controls.

Mothers Back To Black

2014-12-28T15:40:00.000-08:00

Mothers Back To Black
May 2004

The following images document the application of Mothers Back To Black on a 2000 Jeep Wrangler's faded fender flares. The product did temporarily restore the factory-looking dark black color to the fender flares. It's important to note that the result lasted us only a few months.

Our preferred solution is to paint the fender flares with Krylon Fusion. However, if you're interested in this product, feel free to continue to read to see before/after pictures and overall impressions.

This is an image of a Wrangler with faded fender flares. The Jeep is 4 years old at the time of this picture.

Another picture of the faded color.

After applying Mothers Back To Black, the color looks great. However, the product leaves the fenders partially wet with a waxy coating.

Picture of the rear fender before applying the product.

After the product was applied.

Final picture of after applying the product.

Months later, the fenders return to the same faded color. Shown here is the same fender being prepared for a painting. As you can see, we started to scrape a waxy residue off the fender before painting. We can't be certain that the residue is from Mothers Back To Back though. We ended up painting over it. Overall, it's more work to paint the fenders, but overall it was the much more effective option for us.

JKS Adjustable Bumpstop Install

2014-12-27T14:18:00.002-08:00

JKS Adjustable Bumpstop Install
October 2006

The following images document the installation of the JKS Adjustable Bumpstops on a 2000 Jeep Wrangler (XJ high pinion Dana 30 front axle).

This axle is obviously not on the vehicle. However, we have done this on the vehicle, and will pretend the axle is installed.

We started by removing the coil spring to expose the top of the coil spring bucket.

We drilled a hole in the center of the bucket.

Image showing drilled hole.

We inserted the bottom bolt w/lock washer from the bottom.

Image showing bolt.

We then screwed the bumpstop to the bolt.

Image showing bolted on bumpstop.

If an additional disc is needed, we would have attached it by threading a bolt through it and into the first disc.

This is what it would look like installed.

Any combination of sizes could have been used. Hardware was included.

ARB Safari Snorkel Install

2014-12-27T14:06:00.001-08:00

ARB Safari Snorkel Install
July 2004

The following images document the installation of the ARB Safari Snorkel on a 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.

Removed the top of the stock air box by unlatching the clips circled red. Note the drain hole outlined in green. We will plugged that later. Unbolted the three bolts holding the air box to the Jeep. There are nuts on the bottom that will fall, as well as spacers between the fender wall and the air box, shown in the next picture.

We were careful not to drop the red circled spacers in the picture while removing the air box.

With the stock box out, we moved to the battery area. We loosened the battery tie down nuts and then remove the bracket.

This image shows the battery with the battery bracket removed. We then removed the battery cables.

We then removed the battery. Removing the battery exposes the battery tray, which is held on by 4 bolts (circled in red). We removed those bolts and then the battery tray. We were careful not to break the battery sensor (circled in orange).

We unplugged the temperature sensor during the removal of the battery tray. In the below picture, the sensor was plugged into the plug circled in green. The vacuum box may or may not need to be relocated. It is held on by one bolt, noted in red.

We removed the vacuum box so we had more room to work while routing the snorkel tube.

We used painter’s tape to draw on when applying the template to the side of the vehicle. We could have done without tape.

We aligned the template with the top left corner of the fender.

We filled in the holes on the template.

Drill points.

We then used a hole saw to cut the hole. The hole saw has a drill bit in the center, so that's what we aligned on the dot we drew from the template. Once the drill bit was through the fender, the saw portion of the hole saw can make contact with the fender. We switched the drill to reverse and pressed against the fender until bare metal was shown. We then switched the drill to forward and cut the hole.

Not using reverse first makes it difficult to saw to the bare metal of the fender because the teeth of the saw get stuck in the clear coat frequently. So reversing first scrapes all the tape, clear coat, and underlying paint from the fender.

Once the larger hole was cut, we drilled the two remaining holes.

We then removed the tape.

We then applied tape to the top windshield frame. Again, we could have just drawn directly on the paint.

We temporarily put the snorkel on the Jeep (at the bottom) to determine where to drill on the windshield frame. We marked the area.

We drilled the top holes. The two bottom holes exposed plastic, which I believe we ended up drilling through because they were preventing us from installing inserts.

And then we removed the tape.

We painted the exposed metal areas to reduce rusting.

We used a template and drilled the first holes in the air box. This is the stock air box where the intake trumpet is normally located. We removed the trumpet without tools, and then drilled the template holes out.

In other installs, we applied silicon around the trumpet base and left the trumpet installed for better highway airflow. Then the driver uses a pipe plug to seal the trumpet when off-roading to make the system water tight. There are two versions of the ½” plug at Lowes. We use the metal one with the larger wing nut.

We did not use the trumpet in this install, so we continue to plug that area. We started by applying silicon.

We aligned the plate included in the kit and positioned the rivets in place.

We riveted each rivet. We used a start pattern.

The rivets installed.

We then aligned the intake relocation template and marked the holes.

We drilled out the small holes and used a Dremel to cut the larger hole. The larger hole is outlined in red.

We Dremeled the larger hole.

The intake relocation holes completed.

The side of the air box is ribbed and required a lot of silicon to ensure a tight seal. We used much more than what is shown here.

We positioned the relocation bracket and rivets.

We riveted the plate in place using a star pattern.

Finished stock air box.

Back to the windshield, the paint dried and we applied the screw inserts.

Shown from farther away.

We screwed the top windshield bracket frame into the screw inserts.

Installed bracket from farther away.

Unfortunately this Rubicon’s fender support bracket (outlined in red) has a much smaller hole (pointed to by green arrow) than other TJs.

To fit the snorkel intake tube, we were forced to cut out the fender a little. We aimed to mirror a hole outline from a 1997 and 2000 TJ.

We used the hole saw in an angled drill to cut the initial hole. We used a Dremel to cut the sharp points.

We lined the new hole with the supplied grommet.

And then we did the same grommet install on the other fender hole.

Image showing both grommets installed.

Image from outside the Jeep showing the route the intake tube will have to take.

We aligned the snorkel with the side of the Jeep, routed and connected the intake tube, and attached it to the snorkel with the supplied hose clamp. We used silicon where the snorkel and tube meet.

Image showing the hose routed through the fender bracket.

Image from inside the engine compartment showing the house routing.

We jammed the vacuum box in with the tube and screwed it down. I do not recall if we used the original screw point. It's likely that the box sits higher than it previously did.

We then reinstalled the battery tray along with the battery sensor.

The battery was reinstalled.

The battery tie down bracket was installed.

We re-installed the bottom of the air box. We silicon-ed each bolt and plugged the drain hole.

We connected the intake tube to the air box and silicon-ed the connection.

Another image of the connected intake tube.

We attached the supplied zip ties as shown.

Another view of the zip tie location.

We then bolted the snorkel to the top bracket.

The top of the snorkel was then attached.

The owner chose to remove the threads from the door pins so the doors could be removed without unbolting the top of the snorkel.

Another shot of using the Dremel to remove the threaded studs.

Finished job images.

Krylon Fusion On Faded Fender Flares

2014-12-23T12:26:00.003-08:00

Application of Krylon Fusion on faded fender flares
April 2005

The following images document the application of Krylon Fusion spray paint on the stock fender flares of a 2000 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) in an effort to return the faded color to a stock-looking black.

Krylon Fusion is a spray-paint made specifically to adhere to plastic.

This was the Jeep prior to the process. Note the faded color of the fender flares in comparison to the black front bumper.

The painting was done in a well ventilated area.

The bolts inside each of the fender flare pieces were loosened enough to slide newspaper between the flare and the Jeep body. We chose not to remove the fender flares completely because it's time-intensive to get the fender flare bolts completely on and off because they are in tight areas.

The recessed blinker light housings were then removed. There is one nut holding the blinkers in place. Once the nuts is removed, the housing can be wiggled free.

Newspaper was positioned between the fender flare and the body. An old blanket was used to shield the wheel well.

Krylon Fusion black spray-paint was applied to all the fender flares.

We did end up removing the front fender flare extensions below the doors because they were easy to remove.

Paint drying.

Removal of news paper guards.

Tightening of fender flare bolts.

Re-installation of fender flare extensions.

Job complete.

Finished.

Rear Engine Mount Replacement

2014-12-22T16:38:00.000-08:00

Factory Rear Engine Mount Replacement
October 2005

The following images document the replacement of a rear engine mount on a 2000 Jeep Wrangler 6-Cylinder Automatic.

We chose to replace the mount because one of the mounting bolts was broken.

STEP 1

We started by removing the 4 engine mount nuts from the bottom of the transfer case skid plate.

STEP 2

The transfer case skid plate holds up the rear of the engine/transmission/transfer case. So, before removing the transfer case skid plate, we positioned a jack stand (on right) below the transmission. This jack stand held the weight when we removed the transfer case skid plate.

A floor jack (on left) was positioned below the transfer case skid plate. It was jacked up firmly against the skid.

STEP 3

The 6 transfer case mounting bolts (3 on each side) were removed. These bolts attach the transfer case skid plate to the frame. The nuts are welded into the frame.

STEP 4

The transfer case skid plate was lowered using the floor jack. The transfer case/transmission/engine was held up by the jack stand (on left).

STEP 5

A view of the rear engine mount.

STEP 6

A view of the sheared bolt on the engine mount. The engine mount was removed by unbolting the 4 nuts (2 on each side) shown.

STEP 7

The engine mount removed.

STEP 8

Old and new engine mounts.

STEP 9

The new engine mount bolted in place.

STEP 10

The transfer case skid plate was positioned to be raised back up against the engine mount and frame.

STEP 11

The transfer case skid plate was raised into position. The transfer case skid plate mounting bolts were reattached.

STEP 12

Finally, the nuts were installed onto the engine mount bolts.

Finished.