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New 2011 Suzuki GSX-R600 and 750 debut Definitely not just a minor makeover—both GSX-Rs have been heavily updated

2010-10-14T23:37:00.000-04:00

Most of the pre-release rumors on the new Suzuki GSX-Rs were implying that they have only received minor updates—nothing could be further from the truth. While the exterior may seem only slightly different, the 600 and 750 have been thoroughly revised for ’11. Although all the details are too numerous to mention here (check out the upcoming print issue for in-depth coverage), suffice it to say that Suzuki hasn’t merely spruced up the Gixxers’ with slightly different bodywork and a few small tweaks and called it good.

Both bikes underwent a weight loss program, plus the engines underwent extensive internal redesign aimed at reducing internal frictional losses. If your engine spins freer and easier, and the bike weighs less, you can achieve better performance without having to resort to high-strung engine tuning parameters that result in razor-thin powerbands stuck at sky-high rpm levels. Both bikes are claimed to weigh approximately 20 pounds less than their predecessors; an example of the weight loss program is exemplified by the following list:

	Component	Weight reduction (both models)
	Main frame	1350g (2 lb., 15 oz.)
	Front suspension	890g (1 lb., 15.3 oz.)
	Rear suspension	90g (3.1 oz.)
	Front wheel/Axle	256g (9.0 oz.)
	Rear wheel/Axle	340g (11.9 oz.)
	Front brakes	413g (14.5 oz.)
	Rear brakes	323g (11.4 oz.)
	Pistons (engine)	78g (2.7 oz.)
	Transmission	185g (6.5 oz.)
	ECU	330g (11.6 oz.)
	Muffler	1700g (3 lb., 12.0 oz)
	Bodywork	3400g (7 lb., 7.9 oz)
	Headlights	562g (1 lb., 3.8 oz)
	Seat	244g (8.6 oz.)
	Footpegs	53g (1.8 oz.)

All told, Suzuki is claiming a fully fueled weight of 410 pounds for the GSX-R600, and 416 pounds for the GSX-R750. If true, this would make the 600 the lightest four-cylinder middleweight in the market.

The engine’s internal upgrades start with redesigned pistons and rods utilizing the latest 3D CAD/CAM technology employed in MotoGP to replicate precise stress loads in order to reduce component material to the least amount possible. This has resulted in a 14 percent decrease in piston weight and a 12 percent decrease in connecting rod weight compared to last year, a huge reduction when you consider the astronomical piston speeds at 14,000 rpm.

The reduced reciprocating weight and frictional losses in turn have allowed the camshaft profiles to be redone, with less overlap leading to better low- and midrange power while keeping the top end intact. The crankcases have redesigned ventilation holes between the cylinder cavities, with a pentagonal shape providing easier airflow between each cylinder—again, reducing mechanical pumping losses. All of the transmission ratios (with the exception of 5th gear) have been revised for improved acceleration, with a slightly taller first gear providing closer spacing between between most of the gears; overall weight has also been reduced by 6.5 ounces. The complete engine block is now 4 pounds 6 ounces lighter than the previous powerplant.

Up top, the fuel injection throttle bodies feature new, more compact particulate-type injectors that allow better positioning; thus, the primary injectors are now set at a 35-degree angle (from 41 degrees) to allow them a straighter shot at the intake valves for better atomization and throttle response. Exhaled gases are handled by a 4-into-2-into-1 system using the now-ubiquitous under-engine collector chamber; thinner-walled piping (1.0mm versus 1.2mm thickness) and a titanium muffler help to reduce weight by 3 pounds 12 ounces on the 600, and 2 pounds 6.8 ounces on the 750.

The adjustable Suzuki Drive Mode Selector (S-DMS) returns, but now with only two modes instead of three as before. Only A and B modes can be selected; Suzuki found that owners never used the old C mode (we don’t blame them). The ECU is now located up front by the airbox, reducing wiring volume and complexity.

Suspension up front is now handled by a 41mm Showa Big Piston Fork (BPF). The rear shock is 1mm shorter (but with longer stroke), and the spring seat material changed to aluminum to cut 90 grams of excess weight. Braking is now handled by Brembo radial-mount four-piston calipers biting on larger 280mm discs (up from the 276.8mm units of before), with the rear disc dropping in size from 188mm to 186mm.

The aluminum frame and swingarm are completely new and have revised rigidity specs, with the swingarm now only made of three pieces instead of five as before. Both are now manufactured using a “Melted Gravity Casting Process” that is claimed to allow more flexibility in shaping and precise manufacturing of curved components. As listed in the weight specs at the beginning, the frame’s overall weight has been cut by 2 pounds 15.8 ounces.

In order to tighten up the wheelbase and centralize mass, the engine has been rotated upward in the frame by three degrees. This in turn allows the main frame’s length to be shorter front-to-back, reducing wheelbase by 15mm (now listed at 54.5 inches, from 55.1 inches) while retaining the swingarm’s original length. Ergos have been subtly revised, with the bars splayed out wider by one degree, and the fuel tank reshaped for a shorter reach to the bars and easier tuck-in by the rider.

The yen/dollar exchange rate fluctuation has played havoc with the Japanese OEM pricing, and the new GSX-R600’s MSRP of $11,599 (a $1200 bump from last year’s price on the ’09 model—remember, American Suzuki didn’t import any ’10 models) reflects that. Surprisingly, the GSX-R750 is only $400 more at $11,999; one can only imagine that most U.S. buyers will opt for the larger displacement GSX-R for that small of a price difference.

Also introduced for the U.S. market is the new (for the U.S.) GSX1250FA. Already running on European roads for a year now, the GSX1250FA is basically a fully faired version of the Bandit 1250S that debuted back in ’07. The same ultra-torquey 1255cc inline four-cylinder engine returns, along with the frame and suspension. Biggest changes besides the fairing are the GSX-R stacked headlight arrangement, ABS as standard equipment, twin cooling fans to help deal with slow traffic on hot days, and a centerstand. MSRP for the GSX1250FA will be $11,599.

2011 Kawasaki ZX-10R Images and information from Kawasaki's press material

2010-10-13T20:15:00.000-04:00

Power Is Nothing Without Control

Newer. Faster. Lighter. Better. You hear these descriptors all the time in this business.

Problem is, reality rarely lives up to the hype. But Kawasaki’s new-from-the-ground-up 2011 Ninja® ZX™-10R sportbike has no such credibility gap, going several steps beyond newer, faster, lighter and better by offering the most advanced traction-control system in all of production motorcycling.

Yes, in all of production motorcycling.

Not only are we talking about a complete redesign of the ZX-10R’s engine, frame, suspension, bodywork, instrumentation and wheels, but a highly advanced and customizable electronic system that helps riders harness and capitalize on the new ZX-10R’s amazing blend of power and responsive handling. The system is called Sport-Kawasaki Traction Control, or S-KTRC. It represents a whole new dimension in motorcycle performance, and the ZX-10R is the only production sport bike that can take you there.

Motorcyclists have forever been challenged by traction-related issues, whether on dirt, street or track. Riders that can keep a rear tire from spinning excessively or sliding unpredictably are both faster and safer, a tough combination to beat on the racetrack. And when talking about the absolute leading edge of open-class sport bike technology, where production street bikes are actually more capable than full-on race bikes from just a couple years ago, more consistent traction and enhanced confidence is a major plus. The MotoGP-derived S-KTRC system works by crunching numbers from a variety of parameters and sensors – wheel speed and slip, engine rpm, throttle position, acceleration, etc. There’s more data gathering and analysis going on here than on any other Kawasaki in history, and it’s all in the name of helping racers inch closer to the elusive “edge” of maximum traction than ever before. The S-KTRC system relies on complex software buried in the new ZX-10R’s Electronic Control Unit (ECU), the only additional hardware is the lightweight speed sensors located on each wheel.

Unlike the KTRC system on Kawasaki’s Concours™ 14 ABS sport tourer, which primarily minimizes wheel slip on slick or broken surfaces as a safety feature, the S-KTRC system is designed to maximize performance by using complex analysis to predict when traction conditions are about to become unfavorable. By quickly, but subtly reducing power just before the amount of slippage exceeds the optimal traction zone, the system – which processes every data point 200 times per second – maintains the optimum level of tire grip to maximize forward motion. The result is significantly better lap times and enhanced rider confidence –exactly what one needs when piloting a machine of this caliber.

The S-KTRC system offers three different modes of operation, which riders can select according to surface conditions, rider preference and skill level: Level 1 for max-grip track use, Level 2 for intermediate use, and Level 3 for slippery conditions. An LCD graph in the newly designed instrument cluster displays how much electronic intervention is occurring in real time and a thumb switch on the left handlebar pod allows simple, on-the-go mode changes.

The system also incorporates an advanced Power Mode system that allows riders to choose the amount of power – and the character of delivery – available from the engine. Besides the standard Full-power mode are Medium and Low settings. In Medium mode, performance varies according to throttle position and engine rpm; at anything less than 50 percent throttle opening, performance is essentially the same as in Low mode; at more than 50 percent, riders can access additional engine performance. All three S-KTRC settings are available in each of the three Power Mode settings.

And the motorcycle so capably managed by all of this trick electronic wizardry? It’s completely redesigned from 2010 to ’11.

It all starts with the 10R’s all-new inline-four, easily the most advanced engine to ever emerge from a Kawasaki factory. Like last year’s potent ZX-10R engine, the new powerplant is a 16-valve, DOHC, liquid-cooled inline-four displacing 998cc via 76 x 55mm bore and stroke dimensions. But that’s where the similarity stops, as the new mill boasts a handful of engineering changes designed to optimize power delivery, center of gravity and actual engine placement within the chassis.

A primary goal of Kawasaki engineers was linear power delivery and engine manageability throughout all elements of a corner: the entry, getting back to neutral throttle at mid-corner, and heady, controllable acceleration at the exit. Peak torque was moved to a higher rpm range, which eliminates the power peaks and valleys that make it difficult for racers and track-day riders to open the throttle with confidence.

Larger intake valves (31mm vs. 30mm), wider– and polished – intake ports, and completely revised exhaust porting all allow better breathing, more controllable power delivery and less engine braking, just the thing to smooth those racetrack corner entries and exits. Higher-lift camshafts built from lighter-yet-stronger chromoly steel (instead of cast iron) and featuring revised overlap further contribute to optimized engine braking and more controllable power delivery. Newly designed lightweight pistons feature shorter skirts and mount to lighter and stronger connecting rods, each of which spin a revised crankshaft made of a harder material and featuring stronger pins and journal fillets. Compression moves to a full 13.0:1.

There’s more, including a totally revamped crankshaft/transmission shaft layout that contributes to a higher center of mass – and improved handling via better mass centralization – by locating the crankshaft approximately 10 degrees higher relative to the output shaft. There’s even a secondary engine balancer assembly this year, which allows a number of vibration-damping parts to be simplified, contributing to weight savings. A smaller and dramatically lighter battery helps drop even more weight, as does a lighter ECU and fuel pump. A race-style cassette transmission allows simple trackside ratio changes and offers a host of improvements for 2011. These include closer spacing for 4th, 5th and 6th gears and the fine-tuning of the primary and final reduction ratios for less squat/lift during acceleration and deceleration, which allows more precise suspension tuning in back. An adjustable back-torque limiting clutch assembly is fitted, which allows worry-free downshifts and an even higher level of corner-entry calmness.

Cramming all that fuel and air into this amazing new engine is a ram air-assisted fuel injection system featuring larger throttle bodies (47 vs. 43mm) and sub-throttle valves, a larger-capacity airbox (9 vs. 8 liters), secondary injectors that improve top-end power characteristics, and a large, redesigned ram-air intake that’s positioned closer to the front of the bike for more efficient airbox filling and increased power.

The final piece of the ZX-10R’s power-production formula is a race-spec exhaust system featuring a titanium header assembly, hydroformed collectors, a large-volume pre-chamber containing two catalyzers and a highly compact silencer. Due to the header’s race-spec design, riders and racers looking for more closed-course performance need only replace the slip-on muffler assembly.

With the engine producing a massive quantity of usable and controllable power, engineers looked to the chassis to help refine handling and overall road/track competency even further. An all-new aluminum twin-spar frame was designed, an all-cast assemblage of just seven pieces that features optimized flex characteristics for ideal rider feedback, cornering performance and lighter weight than last year’s cage. Fewer pieces mean fewer welds, which contributes to a cleaner, more aesthetically pleasing look. Like the frame, the new alloy swingarm is an all-cast assembly, with idealized rigidity matching that of the frame itself.

Chassis geometry was juggled to offer the best possible stability and handling quickness. Rake, at 25 degrees, is a half-degree steeper than on the 2010 machine, while trail has been reduced from 110 to 107mm. This slightly more radical front end geometry, and the quicker, lighter handling it allows, was made possible largely by the new engine’s more controllable power, engine placement and the CG differences it generated, and the frame and swingarm’s newfound flex characteristics.

Highly advanced suspension at both ends helped as well. Up front is a 43mm open-class version of the Big Piston Fork (BPF) found on last year’s comparo-dominating Ninja ZX-6R. Featuring a piston design nearly twice the size of a conventional cartridge fork, the BPF offers smoother action, less stiction, lighter overall weight and enhanced damping performance on the compression and rebound circuits. This added compliance results in more control and feedback for the rider – just what you need when carving through a rippled sweeper at your local track or negotiating a decreasing-radius corner on your favorite backroad.

There’s big suspension news in back, too. Replacing the vertical Uni-Trak® system of the 2010 ZX-10R is a Horizontal Back-Link suspension design that positions the shock and linkage above the swingarm. Benefits include better mass centralization, improved road holding, compliance and stability, smoother action in the mid-stroke (even with firmer settings), better overall feedback and cooler running. The design also frees space previously taken by the linkage assembly below the swingarm, space now used for the exhaust pre-chamber, which allows a shorter muffler and, again, better mass centralization. The fully adjustable shock features a piggyback reservoir and dual-range (low- and high-speed) compression damping.

All-new gravity-cast three-spoke wheels are significantly lighter than the hoops fitted to the 2010 bike. Up front, Tokico radial-mount calipers grasp 310mm petal discs and a 220mm disc is squeezed by a lightweight single-piston caliper in back. The result is powerful, responsive braking plenty of rider feedback.

Finally, Kawasaki engineers wrapped all this new technology in bodywork as advanced and stylish as anything on this side of a MotoGP grid. Shapes are more curved than edged this year, and the contrasting colored and black parts create a sharp, aggressive image. Line-beam headlights enable the fairing to be made shorter, while LED turn signals are integrated into the mirror assemblies and convenient turn-signal couplers allow easy mirror removal for track-day use. The rear fender assembly holding the rear signal stalks and license plate frame is also easily removable for track days. High-visibility LED lamps are also used for the taillight and position marker.

Instrumentation is totally new as well, the unit highlighted by an LED-backlit bar-graph tachometer set above a multi-featured LCD info screen with numerous sections and data panels. A wide range of information is presented, including vehicle speed, odometer, dual trip meters, fuel consumption, Power Mode and S-KTRC level, low fuel, water temperature and much more. For track use, the LCD display can be set to “race” mode which moves the gear display to the center of the screen.

The new ZX-10R’s ergonomics have been fine tuned for optimum comfort and control, with a slightly lower saddle, adjustable footpegs positioned slightly lower and more forward relative to last year, and clip-ons with a bit less downward angle. This is a hard-core sportbike you can actually take on an extended sport ride – and still be reasonably comfortable doing so. And because it’s 22 pounds lighter than last year’s bike, the new ZX-10R will be quicker and more nimble in any environment you choose to ride it in.

The old saying, “power is nothing without control” is certainly apt where open-class sport bikes are concerned. But when you factor in all the engine, chassis and ergonomic control designed into the 2011 Ninja ZX-10R, you begin to realize you’re looking at one very special motorcycle – one that can take you places you’ve never been before.

Newer. Faster. Lighter. And better. Reality really does match the hype.

2011 Harley-Davidson CVO Road Glide Ultra B-b-bling for the alpha tourer, By Jamie Elvidge Photography by Riles & Nelson

2010-10-12T21:13:00.000-04:00

Like any alpha wolf worth its fur, Harley-Davidson's "alpha customer" needs to make a little noise to remind everyone of his position within the pack-which is exactly why the Custom Vehicle Operations line exists. Every year, Harley's CVO team selects four models and hooks them up with exclusive accoutrements, snazzy paint and, of course, the CVO-exclusive 110-cubic-inch Screamin' Eagle engine. For 2011 the Ultra Classic Electra Glide, gangsta-fave Street Glide and versatile Softail Convertible return to the CVO stage, with the revered Road Glide Ultra rolling in to replace the Fat Bob.

To clear up any confusion, the Road Glide Ultra differs from its cousins the Ultra Classic Electra Glide and Street Glide by way of its hawkish, frame-mounted fairing and cockpit-style instrumentation. The other touring rigs feature flatter, fork-mounted fairings, which impart a slightly heavier steering feel. The Road Glide's unencumbered fork, combined with the Touring chassis' recent frame and suspension upgrades, make it a terrific platform for spirited travel. The CVO Screamin' Eagle Twin Cam engine adds some much-appreciated oomph to the package, bringing it nearer to the power standards of rival touring bikes.

The Road Glide comes standard with ABS, electronic throttle control and a six-speed transmission. It offers an updated Road Tech 660 GPS system, with audio commands available through the external stereo speakers. Harmon/Kardon supplies the iPod-integrated audio/entertainment system, which includes four BOOM! (that's right, BOOM!) bagger speakers. The 'Glide also gets a suspended, heated touring saddle that it shares with the Electra Glide, as well as a remote-control power-lock system that locks/unlocks the bike's trunk, saddlebags and ignition via a pushbutton fob.

The fob works fabulously, and proves a great advance from the days when you needed to unlock and lock each bag manually every time you wanted to rummage for a rainsuit or road map. Additional baubles included the Deluxe Tour-Pak luggage rack with color-matched LED brake/tail lamp and Air Wing Tour-Pak rack, plus Harley's "Rumble Collection" of rubber and chrome footboards, shifter pegs, brake pedal, saddlebag latch covers and heated handgrips.

Aside from the flash factor, the most apparent dimensional difference between the base Road Glide and the CVO version is the use of badass 18-inch Agitator wheels. The 15-inch windshield has been reshaped as well, and brought back 15 degrees.

On the road the newest CVO Glide is everything it should be: packable, comfortable, manageable ... and deeply conspicuous. I had a chance to ride all four fresh-from-the-factory CVO models around Lake Tahoe's tranquil shores and let me tell you, a pack of flashy, cash-happy Harley riders draws huge attention. Especially among the wooden boat-wielding, alpha cabin-owning crowd that frequents Tahoe's la-dee-da lakefront.

The 110-c.i. V-twin is the most appreciated upgrade shared by the 2011 CVO models, giving all the bikes a little more real-world punch. But there are also some enticing aesthetic and electronic additions to satisfy Harley's most demanding customers. The Electra Glide boasts a new 19-inch Agitator front wheel, as well as ventilated fairing lowers that house two out of the six speakers. After all, what better to complement loud pipes than several hundred watts of Stephan Wolf? The new audio system includes an H-D-branded iPod Nano with a slick dock pocket in the right saddlebag. Additionally, the Street Glide will roll out with a snakeskin-motif leather seat, low-profile tank console and 7-inch smoked flyscreen. It comes in four daring color options, each brandishing contrasting engine, wheel, tank console and fairing finishes.

The CVO Convertible Softail also receives an iPod-integrated audio system, with dual speakers tucked beneath the bike's small windshield. Rider and passenger seats, passenger backrest and lockable leather saddlebags all receive simulated alligator-skin inserts, and new mini-ape hangers add to the Softail's plumage. First-time performance enhancements such as ABS, ETC, cruise control and keyless ignition add tangible value to the Convertible package.

Because the luxury CVO Ultra Classic Electra Glide is first choice among long-distance Alpha Customers, great detail went into construction of a new heated touring saddle and adjustable rider and passenger backrests. The Electra Glide receives a new navigation system and the same handy remote-control power-lock system as the Road Glide.

The stereo on the hot-rod Street Glide, with its 100-watt-per-channel amp, is by far the most potent for in-the-wind listening, but the BOOM! (yes) speakers on the Road Glide also offer impressive sound quality. The Softail's two-speaker stereo is less than stellar, but that's not its only downfall. A knee-high-to-a-grasshopper seat height of 24.4-inches and baby apes make the bike feel cramped for a full-size rider, and looks-wise there are much prettier ways to spend nearly $30,000.

Purchasing a new Harley will set you back a few stacks, and joining the exclusive CVO ranks even more so. The ever-popular CVO Electra Glide has a base price of $36,500, and the swaggering CVO Street Glide starts at $32,500. The newly-initiated CVO Road Glide Ultra nearly doubles in price compared to the base model, with a starting point of $36,000. But even at these prices, these bikes will inevitably find their way into the temperature-controlled man-caves of the Alpha Customer. Exclusivity does wonders for desirability.

tech SPEC
Evolution The Road Glide gets the big Screamin' Eagle engine, bigger wheels, fresh paint and an assortment of functional and compelling electronics.

Rivals
Arlen Ness Victory Vision, BMW K1200 LT, Honda Gold Wing, Kawasaki 1700 Voyager, Star Royal Star Venture S.

TECH
Price	$35,999
Engine type	a-c 45-deg. V-twin
Valve train	OHV, 4v
Displacement	1803cc
Bore x stroke	101.6 x 111.3mm
Compression	9.1:1
Fuel system	EFI
Clutch	Wet, multi-plate
Transmission	6-speed
Claimed horsepower	na
Claimed torque	115 lb.-ft. @ 4000 rpm
Frame	Steel double cradle
Front suspension	41.3mm Showa fork
Rear suspension	Twin Showa shocks with air-adjustable preload
Front brake	Dual Brembo four-piston calipers, 300mm discs
Rear brake	Brembo four-piston caliper, 300mm disc
Front tire	130/80B-18 Dunlop H-D Series
Rear tire	180/55B-18 Dunlop H-D Series
Rake/trail	26.0°/6.7 in.
Seat height	27.5 in.
Wheelbase	63.5 in.
Fuel capacity	6.0 gal.
Claimed dry weight	905 lbs.
Colors	Red/black, gray/black, ivory/gold
Available	Now
Warranty	24 mo., unlimited mi.

Contact
Harley-Davidson Motor Co.
3700 W. Juneau Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53208
414.343.4056
www.harley-davidson.com

Verdict 3.5 stars out of 5
One heck of a fly Road Glide, but damn is it expensive!

2011 Harley-Davidson XR1200X - The X-Factor by Aaron Frank Photography by Tom Riles, Brian J. Nelson

2010-10-11T20:24:00.000-04:00

Uprated Suspension And Brakes Improve The Sportiest Sportster

It's fair to say that Harley-Davidson racing development peaked in 1970 with the release of the iconic, instantly successful XR750. That platform, which continues to dominate dirt-track racing to this day, has made the XR prefix synonymous with Harley performance.

That's why The Motor Company's hottest streetbike is branded the XR1200, and isn't an XL1200 variation like its more conventional, baby-cruiser brethren. Now Harley-Davidson has deployed an additional X to create the XR1200X, upgraded with fully adjustable Showa suspension and higher-spec brakes. This is by far the sportiest Sportster yet.

Aesthetically, the X-model is mostly unchanged. The bodywork, drawn by industrial designer Mark Daniels in homage to the original XR750, is faithful in shape if not scale, and cleverly incorporates fresh-air intakes under the 3.5-gallon fuel tank. Black-wrinkle powdercoating on the engine and a satin-black exhaust make the bike look more sinister, and an orange pinstripe accents the cast three-spoke wheels.

The engine is likewise unaltered. The rubber-mounted, air-cooled, 1200cc Evolution V-twin is equipped with high-flow heads, high-compression pistons and aggressive cams to provide performance deserving of the XR name. A high-capacity oil cooler keeps engine temps down, and a downdraft 50mm throttle body, equipped with electronic sequential-port injection, meters fuel. Flawless fueling, quick throttle response and surprisingly light clutch action make the claimed 74 lb.-ft. of torque accessible and easy to exploit.

Harley-Davidson invited us to historic Road America, located an hour north of its Milwaukee, Wisconsin, headquarters, so we could best assess the new model's much improved suspension and brakes. Up front is a bespoke version of Showa's Big Piston Fork (BPF), which uses larger-diameter internal pistons to reduce damping pressure for better compliance and improved front-end feedback. Out back, the shocks are Showa's finest fully adjustable, nitrogen-charged Monotube units, with piggyback reservoirs and oversized 36mm pistons for more consistent damping action. This same suspension package was available last season as a $1500 option. The XR1200X retails for $11,799, just $1000 more that the standard XR1200 it will replace in 2011, making it a bargain, too.

The Nissin four-piston front brake calipers are unchanged from last year, but the 292mm rotors are now fully floating for increased stopping force. Braking power is better but still only adequate for truly aggressive riding, and the rubbery brake lines are prone to swelling after a few hard laps. Radial-mounted calipers would be a worthwhile upgrade for this big boy, as would a slimmer, adjustable brake lever that's more conducive to one-finger braking.

We ran a modified version of Road America's legendary, 4-mile layout, deleting the long front and middle straights to concentrate on the tighter, more technical back half of the course. This altered layout highlighted the revised XR's handling prowess without drawing undue attention to its lowly 125-mph top speed. It's a brave OEM that chooses a racetrack debut for a 550-pound streetbike, but to Harley's credit, the XR-X negotiated the road course remarkably well. The engineering team did an excellent job of juggling the XR's geometry to deliver a surprisingly neutral-handling and agile machine, with none of the floppy turn-in or mid-corner wallow you would expect from a bike with a 60-inch wheelbase and 29 degrees of rake.

Give credit to the upgraded Showa suspension for keeping what could be a runaway train firmly under control. Run the XR-X hard into Road America's famous Canada Corner and the firmer Big Piston Fork resists bottoming and reduces forward weight transfer, providing vastly more predictable, controlled corner entries. More reactive damping at both ends pays dividends in fast spots like the long and bumpy Carousel, and helps keep the Sportster chassis, with its rubber-mounted engine/swingarm assemblage, from tying itself into knots.

Specially designed Dunlop Qualifier D209 tires-"painstakingly developed" for this bike-provide more than enough grip, and quickly reveal limited cornering clearance. Footpegs touch early and often, followed by the kickstand on the left and the exhaust on the right. "It sounds like a frickin' machine shop out there," commented one photographer after the first track session, as we all did our best to improve on Harley's claimed 40 degrees of cornering clearance by grinding the footpegs away a little at a time.

Ride away from the track, however, and those low, rearset pegs and wide, dirt-track-bend handlebars describe a commanding riding position that's perfect for spirited street riding. And the backroads really are where this bike belongs, despite the race-ready Showa suspension, the racy XR prefix and all those stripped-down doppelgangers competing in the new AMA Vance & Hines XR1200 spec racing series. Harley-Davidson can crow all it wants about racing heritage and race-bred performance, but the XR1200X is fundamentally a streetbike-and a very satisfying one at that.

tech
SPEC
Evolution
Last year's XR1200 with the optional, fully adjustable Showa suspension now standard.

Rivals
Air-cooled sporting standards like the Ducati GT1000, Moto Guzzi V7 Café Classic and Triumph Thruxton.

TECH
Price	$11,799
Engine type	a-c 45-deg. V-twin
Valve train	OHV, 4v
Displacement	1200cc
Bore x stroke	88.9 x 96.8mm
Compression	10.0:1
Fuel system	EFI
Clutch	Wet, multi-plate
Transmission	5-speed
Claimed horsepower	91.0 bhp @ 7000 rpm
Claimed torque	74 lb.-ft. @ 4000 rpm
Frame	Tubular-steel double-cradle
Front suspension	43mm Showa inverted fork with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping
Rear suspension	Dual Showa shocks with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping
Front brake	Dual Nissin four-piston calipers, 292mm discs
Rear brake	Nissin one-piston caliper, 260mm disc
Front tire	120/70ZR-18 Dunlop Qualifier D209
Rear tire	180/55ZR-17 Dunlop Qualifier D209
Rake/trail	29.0°/5.2 in.
Seat height	29.2 in.
Wheelbase	60.0 in.
Fuel capacity	3.5 gal.
Claimed dry weight	551 lbs.
Color	Black Denim and White Hot Denim
Available	Now
Warranty	24 mo., unlimited mi.

Contact
Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Company
3700 W. Juneau Ave.
Milwaukee, WI 53201
414.343.4056
www.harley-davidson.com

Verdict 4 stars out of 5
Same stylish looks and all-around performance as the XR1200, but with better brakes and suspension.

Heathers Draggin' on the Dragon! - Girl rider!

2010-10-08T14:17:00.000-04:00

This Tail of The Dragon in NC. The curves are crazy as hell. It takes heart to ride this tail as they call it and this is a female doing the damn thing. The women are really getting it in on these sportbikes. Too bad it was just clips, can you image if it was actually footage as they were riding in the tail? Well enjoy Heather she's doing it real big.

Top Motocross Psychology Tips For Entering The Zone: Take It From The Pro's by Dr. Patrick J. Cohn

2010-10-07T19:53:00.000-04:00

For those that love to race we have not forgotten about you at Biker-Space. Here is an article on how to handle and prepare for a motocross race. Enjoy!

On the start line, you were so confident that day, you believed no one could race with you. On the track, racing felt effortless and smooth. You were in the flow on every jump, bump, and turn. Your rhythm was perfect in the whoops. Every section of the track was executed just as you saw in your mind. Your mind was so immersed into racing each section--one at a time--that you were oblivious to other racers. Today you were not checking to see who was behind you.

Your motorcycle responded with ease to every thought—it felt like an extension of you. The feeling of being in complete control of yourself and your emotions was awesome. It was so fun to race the track just as you have envisioned in your mind. Only after the moto did you realize that you raced the moto of your life and found an elusive state of peak performance called “the zone".

Nothing is more exciting for athletes than performing in the zone. The zone is a peak performance state in which the mental, physical, and strategic parts of racing come together at once. When racing in the zone and going fast with ease, motocross is fun, immensely satisfying, and feels second nature. To get into a zone state, you must be focused on the task, very self-confident, race with trust and composure, and be decisive with your race plan. In this article, I will discuss the mindset of racers when in the peak performance zone.

“You can have a good bike and have all the talent in the world, but if you don't believe in yourself and know that you can win, you will have a hard time at the races.” – Ricky Carmichael

Confidence is the first mental tool to entering the zone. You cannot race your best without a high level of self-confidence. You know the confident type—the James Stewarts of the Motocross world who have a total conviction and belief in their ability. Most racer’s confidence comes from success and winning, but how will you get onto the podium if you do not first believe you can win? Too many racers doubt their ability to race up front right at the wrong time. I teach racers to take responsibility for their confidence by fueling their confidence and teaching them how to battle those malicious doubts that pop into a racer’s mind at the wrong time.

“I try to visualize the entire race beforehand. As the actual races get closer at hand, I start to focus more specifically on the start.” – Rick Johnson

The second mental tool to getting into the zone is your ability focus the mind in the present moment, the so-called here and now. Most racers can concentrate, but may not focus on the right areas. Racing the track one section at a time and not getting ahead of yourself is the foundation of a zone focus. You can’t make yourself get in the zone, but you can train your mind to focus on the right areas so you are dialed in when the gate drops. In addition, coping with distractions are part of racing. The racer who learns how to ignore the distractions and focus on the task will beat most racers who get distracted.

The third mental tool to entering the zone is a racer’s ability to get into a “flow” on race day. Ricky Carmichael has a great work ethic and trains hard, but to win he must be able to rely on his training and get into a rhythm on race day. Some racers ruin their rhythm by trying too hard or forcing it on race day. The ability to perform effortlessly and trust your instincts is the foundation for getting into a zone state. My motocross students call this feeling as being “in the flow,” “in a rhythm,” “just reacting,” or “automatic.” You must be able to trust your practice and ability on race day do you can “just do it” and react to the track.

“Don’t try to blast your way around the track. Find a nice pace and stay with it. Relax. When you are nervous, your arms tend to pump up.” – Jeremy McGrath

In pressure situations or in national events, the tendency is to tighten up, try too hard, and not trust you ability. Focusing too much on clutch release or body position for example upsets the natural rhythm and flow of riding because you are consciously forcing it and not letting it happen. This bogs down timing and throws off your natural rhythm. The purpose of practice is to make it feel reflexive when you perform on the track. When you race, let your instincts, built on a ton of practice, take over.

The fourth mental tool is composure. When performing in the zone, racers feel very much in control of themselves and thus their performance. Sports require a balanced emotional level. The key is to be excited to race but not over excited, intense but not too intense, ready to race, but not overanxious to race, and feel challenged but not anxious. Feeling pumped and excited can help you race better, but fear and anxiety ruin your mindset. I help my students find the balance between feeling excited and being over excited.

“Only race because you love it. Race because you can express yourself. Race because it's the most fun thing you can do!” – Rick Johnson

Lastly, you have to have fun with your racing to get into the zone. How could racing not be fun you ask? One way is if you put too much pressure on yourself to win or get on the podium. Another way is if you feel expectations from others such as your parents or manufacturers to win. These can cause fear, trying too hard, doubt, and tension, all mental breakdowns that will prevent you from entering the zone. Approach each moto like a fun game because you love the feeling of hitting that jump just right or hauling around a corner and you will be more likely to find your flow on race day.

Why Do Bikers Dress The Way They Do? By Tyler Powers

2010-10-06T22:01:00.000-04:00

Most motorcycle riders wear leather – lots of leather. Boots, chaps, vests, gloves, chain wallets, and leather jackets. The reason behind all this leather is not for looks, and it's not to appear threatening. It's all about protection!

There is protection from weather provided by leather. Riding in cool weather gets very cold when you are moving at 55 miles per hour. Even the gentle Florida winter requires protection from winter weather. In fact, I would never know that was Becki getting ready to ride the Toy Run if I didn't recognize the motorcycle! Weather isn't the only issue, however.

True bikers dress to protect themselves in a fall rather than dressing just for the ride. Accidents do happen. You may have to drop a bike to avoid being hit by a car. You may experience a front blow out and lose control. It is possible that even the most experienced rider can drop a bike. I've had to CHOOSE to drop a bike to avoid being run over by a car. The bike and I both survived. I didn't even get road rash since I was wearing leather! I also chose where to drop the bike so it wasn't damaged except for a paint ding.

Bikers learn from experience, both theirs and others. When you see someone who chose to ride in shorts and tee-shirt come in covered with road rash, you know that riding that way is not wise. They dressed for the summer ride and failed to dress for the fall which happened.

That explains the leather jackets and chaps. But why the chain wallets? Motorcycles vibrate somewhat. You climb on and off them. This places stress on the back pocket where a wallet would be carried. Over time, the wallet can drop out unnoticed and not only is money lost, but ID, proof of insurance, credit cards lots of valuable things that take time and trouble to replace. With the chain wallet, this cannot happen. You also do not expose yourself to having a pick-pocket hit you during a crowded motorcycle event!

The leather gloves – often fingerless for summer wear -- make holding handlebars for hours more comfortable. There isn't a cruise control on a motorcycle, although some people rig them up. The throttle is in your hand and you have it turned to the speed you want to go for the entire ride. That wears on the palm and tires the hand. The gloves provide comfort. Mesh and leather are normally used for summer riding, full leather for winter rides. Also, the hands are provided protection from the road in case of a skid, fall, or drop. Road rash on the palms HURTS!

Goggles or eye protection is often the law, but it also makes sense. Think what happens if a bug hits you in the eye at 55 mph! Of course, the goggles or eye protection needs to look cool, but that just because no one wants to wear funny looking glasses. Helmet visors provide the protection in states where helmets are required. A benefit of visors, if you use a full-face visor, bugs don't get in your mouth either! ICK!

Speaking of bugs: leather protects the rider from insect impacts as well. Do you realize how hard a bug is when it hits your body at high speed?? It's painful!! And no one would want that angry insect to sting if it were capable.

Boots are a necessity. If you "almost" drop a bike, often that sturdy boot placed on the ground prevents the potential drop becoming a real accident. Think how your foot would look if you had to steady yourself and your bike wearing thin bottom sneakers? If you ruin a pair of boots because you saved yourself from a fall, it's an investment that paid off! Boots also provide protection from hot exhaust pipes and support the ankles better for mounting and dismounting your ride.

Where helmets are not required, leather skull caps are popular. Sometimes called a "do-rag", these leather bandana-like objects are shaped for the head and tie in the back. This hold hear in place but also provides some protection should you scrape your head during a fall. Of course, if you HIT your head during a fall, only a helmet will provide protection. However, we should let those who ride decide, but most states feel otherwise!

There is a reason for every thing the biker wears. Sure, it looks cool in their opinion, and there is some really beautiful riding gear available. But it's not all about looks. What you wear when you ride can save your life or at least your skin!

MASSACHUSETTS ENACTS RIDER TRAINING FOR JUNIOR MOTORCYCLISTS by Bill Bish

2010-10-04T20:48:00.000-04:00

The Massachusetts Motorcycle Association (MMA) announces that Senate Bill 2344, dubbed Ryan’s Bill, an “Act relative to assuring that motorcyclists between the ages of 16 and 18 are provided with adequate education relative to the proper safety and operation of a motorcycle.” has been signed into law by Governor Deval Patrick.

Recognizing the additional burden formal training may require, MMA Legislative Director Rick Gleason states, “A weekend of formal training sets the stage for a lifetime of motorcycling enjoyment and the skills acquired through training can help a rider avoid a crash.”

This new law does not make training mandatory, and only affects those under 18 who wish to earn their motorcycle license. MMA Chairman Dave Condon further clarifies that passage of Ryan’s Bill does not require a junior operator take a motorcycle training course. "A motorcycle permit in this state is good for two years. Therefore, a junior motorcycle operator can still ride on his\her permit beyond their 18th birthday, and take the road test offered by the Registry of Motor Vehicles.” Condon further stated, "The MMA was very careful in not taking anyone's choice away or interfering with a parent’s right to decide what is best for their child." Condon also pointed out that current state regulations require 40+ hours of formal training before a Junior Operator may obtain a license to operate an automobile.

Motorcycle Rider Education Program (MREP) officials analyzed ten years of information from the Massachusetts RMV and found that just over 63% of those involved in fatal motorcycle accidents have never received any formal motorcycle rider training and 22.5% of motorcycle fatalities were from riders under the age of 21.

The MMA supported the legislation in honor of 16 year old Ryan Orcutt of Brockton who died in a motorcycle accident.

Motorcycle Stunt Girls- Graceful Perfection

2010-10-02T12:36:00.000-04:00

The girls are doing it real big in motorcycle stunts. WOW!!! Much respect to these ladies. And they look good. They are gorgeous. Team Rebella proves that stunting isn't just a game for the guys...

...One group of female riders has carved out its own niche within the freestyle genre, and has since made a lot of guys go gaga for more than their stunts...

...So how did Team Rebella, a group of three young ladies, think they were going to make any sort of impact whatsoever and infiltrate this male-dominated, somewhat reclusive stunt clique? Lipstick and eyeliner doesn't mix with wheelies and burnouts after all...

...It turns out that makeup, teddy bears and nail polish are the farthest things from the minds of Jessica Maine, Brandy Valdez and Alicia Speck. It was fate that gave them their collective good looks alongside natural riding ability, but the blend has gained them widespread popularity...

How To Handle A Fall (Assuming It's Inevitable) By: James R. Davis

2010-09-30T20:00:00.000-04:00

Of all the Tips I have posted here, this one is clearly the least credible in the sense that I have no experience in the matter, nor can I imagine a way to practice that makes any sense to me (nor would I want to.)

Still, I will post the thoughts in the hope that the reader will not take them as advice, but purely my opinions on the matter. Further, I suspect that in real life one does not have time to do anything deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. On the other hand, since I have personally witnessed a deliberate and life-saving maneuver by a woman who had just suffered a highside accident, I know that at least some people retain enough presence of mind in an accident that the following couple of ideas just might help.

The objective should always be NOT to fall - even if the bike is going down. That is why I teach my friends how to dismount their bikes (at slow speeds) if it is dumping, or to stay with it until after first impact at higher speeds, if possible.

DO NOT TRY TO BREAK YOUR FALL WITH YOUR HANDS!!! In other words, try to impact with as much of your body at the same time as possible.

If you are doing a lowside the bike is ahead of you and you want it to stay that way. Since the coefficient of friction between you and the ground/asphalt is higher than of a metal motorcycle, you want to get as much of your body on the ground at the same time as you can to slow you as quickly as possible so the bike will slide away from you. In other words, arms over head, feet first, butt down. Stay LOOSE (relaxed, in as large a configuration as possible.) LET GO OF THE MOTORCYCLE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!!!

If you are doing a highside you will be in front of the bike when you hit the ground. You want to move as fast as possible - in the same direction you were going and for as long as you can - in order to try to avoid getting crushed. In other words, you want to 'tuck' and roll as soon as you can after you hit the ground. Stay TIGHT (in as small a configuration as possible.)

Before you try to get up after taking a spill you must be sure that you have come to a stop first! Wait a couple of seconds until you are sure.

I don't think most people will have time to do anything deliberate at all by way of falling. But perhaps I'm wrong and the above thoughts can in some way be of assistance.
---
Following the posting of this Tip I received many e-mail messages which argued that a person simply does not have time to do anything that could affect the outcome of a fall. I responded with the following:

quote:

My comments had very little to do with how you hit the ground following a 'get off' as I don't think there is sufficient time to do anything very deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. Rather, I was trying to suggest that as you are coming to rest (assuming you can function at all) then you should try to END UP either loose (as much body contact as possible with the ground) or tight (as little body contact as possible with the ground - tuck and roll posture) depending on if you went down on the low side or the highside.

Despite the fact that I don't think most people would have either the time nor the presence of mind to do much 'thinking' during a 'get off', some do. I have personally seen, for example, a woman in her late fifties do a 50 MPH highside and when she landed, because (I believe - she can't remember) she was so afraid that the bike would land on top of her, began a rapid rolling maneuver that saved her life (the motorcycle stopped 1 foot short of where she did.) I have personally witnessed this same woman (honest) respond to a huge wind gust that knocked her bike over just as we were coming to a stop at a pullout on the top of a mountain and she was thrown over her bike, this time at about 5 MPH.

During this latter 'highside' she actually did a summersault before hitting the ground - a clearly deliberate move on her part (we all watched as she tucked her head down and 'kicked' away from her bike which allowed her to land on her curved back and then she 'unwound' and stopped her roll by spreading her legs. (She had gotten away from the bike that was following her, but wanted to stop rather than keep going.) Good thing, because had she gone another five feet she would have had a SEVENTY FOOT fall off the mountain. (There was no fence or guard rail that would have stopped it.) Incidentally, Elaine saw both of these 'highsides' , too.

Anyway, I mention these events because they left a very strong impression on me that some people DO have the presence of mind to determine how to END a fall, despite how fast things are happening to them. I'm not at all sure I'm one of those people, but at least I have thought about it and know that if I'm in front of my motorcycle I want to keep moving until I can't move any more - and I want as small an exposed profile as possible, just in case that bike catches up with me.

As to the lowside concept of trying to end up on your back, arms over your head, feet first - this was originally told to me by a motorcycle 'stunt man' in LA a couple of decades ago about how he tries to stop after a dismount. (Not that any of us are into that sort of thing, of course. )

SAVING TIME CAN COST YOU MONEY by Bill Bish

2010-09-29T20:32:00.000-04:00

In the current economic downturn, cash-strapped states across the U.S. are charging huge fines for speeding violations and other traffic infractions. All across America, legislators have one eye on road safety and the other on depleted coffers, and depending on where you live a speeding ticket can cost from under a hundred dollars to a couple thousand or more, reports AOL Autos.

Drivers caught speeding in the states of Georgia, Illinois, North Carolina, Nevada and New Hampshire all are liable to be fined up to $1000, at a judge's discretion, for a first-time speeding offense, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The severity of the financial penalty also may depend upon the number of miles above the speed limit when clocked and the number of points on a driver's license, or if the offense occurred near a school or road works. A driver's license may also be suspended, their vehicle impounded, or they may face jail time.

Some states including Michigan, Texas and New Jersey, operate under so-called "driver responsibility" laws, which, in some cases, can result in a further fine of up to $1000 leveled a year after the conviction. Virginia, which until 2008 had some of the strictest penalties for speeders, repealed its driver-responsibility laws last year after a public outcry. Georgia, meanwhile, has just voted to add $200 to the fine of what it terms "superspeeders," who travel more than 10 mph over the speed limit. Other states with fines of up to $500 -- which in many cases is then compounded with additional court fees -- include Maryland, Missouri and Oregon.

Hydroplaning Issues What is it? What to do about it? Are they making new tires less safe? By: James R. Davis

2010-09-28T20:36:00.000-04:00

Hydroplaning is the result of your tires moving FAST across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the center of the tire. The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road and all traction is thus lost.

Of course the word 'fast' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 60 MPH is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 55 MPH you are safe, however. (A formula that comes close to predicting the speed at which you will hydroplane, assuming at least .2" of water on the ground, is: 10.27 * Sqrt(tire pressure) which shows that if your tires hold 35 psi, hydroplaning can be expected at 60.76 MPH, while tires with 41 psi of air in them should expect hydroplaning at about 65.75 MPH.

Another formula that is somewhat more accurate, though much harder to calculate, is: 7.95 * Sqrt(tire pressure * contact patch width / contact patch length). This formula shows that the wider the contact patch is relative to its length, the higher the speed required to support hydroplaning. I bring this to your attention because it is contrary to my understanding that a wider tire is more susceptible to hydroplaning than is a narrower tire, yet this particular formula seems to yield a closer approximation of the threshold hydroplaning speed. In other words, I cannot explain why the formula seems to work.

In any event, there are two absolutely essential NO-NO's to remember should you experience the beginning of hydroplaning:

Do NOT apply your brakes

Do NOT try to steer in any direction but straight ahead

Though I am not formally trained in the matter I would suggest that the only thing you can possibly do to help the situation is to feather your clutch to moderate your speed without the possibility of drive train 'snap' that would result from an abrupt change of the accelerator.

Hope there is an idea in there that you can work with. Frankly, I think if you start to hydroplane the odds are that you are going to go down unless you keep the front wheel pointed absolutely dead ahead and it is of the briefest of durations.

While on this subject I would like to make another observation about our tires. If you look at the stock front tire on all new GoldWings you will see a Dunlop K177.

If you look at the tire tread pattern you will also see that the grooves are cut in such a way as to tend to channel water away from the center of the tire if it is rotating in accord with the arrow stamped on the side of the tire. This seems to be consistent with what the Dunlop factory rep advised in his latest message to me on the subject.

However, if you look at the front tire tread pattern of the new Dunlop Elite II's (K491) they are aligned in exactly the opposite way. That is, they tend to channel water towards the center of the tire. This CANNOT be the most effective way to diminish the odds of hydroplaning! Either the K177 or the K491 is safer on wet streets based on those tread patterns. (I believe that most new street bikes (other than Honda) come with tires treaded like the K491's.)

If anyone knows why I sure would like to hear about it. Thanks.

I, of course, tried to find out the answer for myself. I wrote to the company that manufactures these tires and in my letter I explained my concerns, just as I did above.

Following is the terse response I received from the Dunlop Tire Corporation to those concerns. I think you can draw a few conclusions from this 'hedge" - at least one of which is that hydroplaning and braking compete with each other from a tread design point of view. It might also be concluded that if you start using these newer designs you should lower your speeds in the future when the roads are wet, below what used to work just fine for you (I will!).

quote:

Our development and testing during the design of the Elite II front tire determined optimum overall performance was achieved with this pattern which includes wet traction and braking.

Dunlop Tire Corporation

(This response was signed by a person named Tom Daley.)

Mind you that I am not of the opinion that Dunlop has made a mistake with this design! In fact, I think braking performance is FAR MORE IMPORTANT than hydroplaning resistance. This is particularly true since we can usually choose how fast we drive on wet streets but often cannot choose when it is necessary to stop quickly. I would have liked a little more candor from them on the issue, however.

For example, (because it is left to me to interpret their response), I do not know if they were actually saying that they had determined that the old design (such as IS being shipped on the front tires of new Wings) is better or not than the K491 design from an hydroplaning point of view.

Glad-Handling those Bad Landings Tips on the Perfect Motorcycle Gloves by Gary IIminen

2010-09-27T20:37:00.000-04:00

For many of us, gloves are gloves. If they fit fairly comfortably and prevent blisters or keep our hands warm in cold weather, we’re pretty much good with whatever we happen to have at hand—pun intended.

But, where power sports are concerned, selecting the right gloves can make a big difference in our enjoyment, comfort and safety.

Sizing seems pretty basic, but it makes the difference between day-long comfort and “can’t wait to take ‘em off” discomfort. Checking out the size of your favorite current gloves is a pretty good guide and manufacturers have handy sizing charts, as well for buying online.

One trick I’ve learned for riding in a climate that can be finger-numbing cold in the morning and toasty in the afternoon is to double glove. Wear a light, snug-fitting riding motorcycle glove with thin leather palm and mesh or stretch fabric back inside a heavier leather and/or insulated glove. As the temps rise, take off the outer glove leaving the lighter, cooler glove to provide protection without being too warm. Some snowmobile gloves feature a removable glove liner, but that may not be designed to act as a lightweight glove in itself.

I’ve found that tactic is particularly good for off-road ATV and motorcycle riding and for snowmobile riding, improving protection when trailside branches whack your hands. The thin gloves are also very good for handling tools in sub-zero cold when exposing bare skin can cause frost-bite in a matter of minutes and handling steel tools can literally cause them to freeze to the skin. It can be very difficult to use tools with the bulkier insulated gloves or mitts on. Getting the outer glove in a size or two larger than usual makes this work pretty well.

Depending on your sport and season, you may want motorcycle gloves that keep your hands warm, dry and protected, or cool, dry and protected.

A variety of approaches exist to meet both goals. Perhaps the most dizzying aspect of glove design these days is the variety of materials used in glove construction. Even basic leather gloves have variations: goat skin, lamb skin, buck skin, pigskin, full-grain cowhide, suede and combinations of more than one type. Solid, perforated, fingerless, non-lined, lined, insulated, non-insulated, gel-pad palms, you name it.

Leather has a natural beauty to it, tends to be supple and provides reasonably good weather and abrasion protection. Add some treatment to the surface and you have a waterproof, tough, comfortable basic glove that easily mashes down to fit into your pockets. These types of gloves tend to be reasonably priced, too, generally ranging from as little as about $20 for your basic styles to the $60-$70 range depending on the options.

But the real revolution in glove design is in the use of synthetic materials. Stretch mesh for the back and sides of the gloves allow near-total ventilation, which may be augmented by finger vents, while providing abrasion protection and second-skin fit. High-tack silicone rubber and similar materials added to palm and fingers prevents slippage on the hand-grips and levers, supple finger materials allow maximum “touch” for fine control, pre-curved fingers and palms virtually eliminate “break-in” for the grip. Add Kevlar® fiber in back, wrist and gauntlet with hard knuckle and finger armor and you’ve got a competition-grade protection package.

Speaking of competition, if you intend to use the gloves for racing, check the rules for the sanctioning body; some types of racing won’t allow some types of gloves. For example, in land speed racing no synthetic materials are allowed—leather only, a minimum three inch gauntlet is required and wrist closures are mandatory. European (CE) standards exist for professional motorcycle gloves: EN 13594:2002. No equivalent U.S. standards exist. Fully appointed racing gloves can range from $50 to about $200, depending on the required equipment.

Adjustable wrist closures with Velcro® or snaps assure the gloves will stay on when you need their protection most. They are a good feature to have for leisure riding gloves and are essential for competition. Elastic bands are ok for some applications, but to be effective in some situations, they’d generally have to be so snug, they may be uncomfortable.

Other features like battery-operated heaters, finger-mounted face shield wipers, reflective piping or panels, gel padding in the fingers or palms, or key pockets are all items to consider, depending on your riding plans.

BIKER BABES -- HAPPY FRIDAY -- EYE CANDY

2010-09-24T20:40:00.002-04:00

Biker Babes For The Guys and The Music Is Hot As Well By Journey, Enjoy!
Sorry ladies we did try to find video's somewhere anywhere that had Biker Hunks and there are none out there. So please don't be offended.

HINTS AND TIPS FOR RIDING IN THE RAIN by Shannon Duffy

2010-09-23T19:39:00.000-04:00

It's 8AM Tuesday morning and you peer out your kitchen window. Although the weatherman on TV had announced the night before that clear skies were in today's forecast, dark grey rain clouds are looming in the distance. While sipping on your morning cup-a-Joe, you try to estimate just how soon they'll be hovering over your home and contemplate thoughts to yourself such as, 'If I leave now, maybe, just maybe I'll be able to make it in to work without getting wet.' After all, that shiny bike of yours, sitting in the garage all night is begging for you to take it for another spin.

You glance back up at the clouds and decide that yet again, you will chance it and ride on into work. In case luck is not on your side, here are some tips on how to prepare for riding in the rain and to keep yourself as dry and as safe as possible without having to succumb to driving to work in a cage. Let's begin!

Gear - In an ideal situation, you'll have invested in some all weather riding gear including waterproof boots and if that's the case then good for you! The minimum investment you should have on hand when it comes to rain gear is waterproof gloves that fasten securely around your wrist. Not only do gloves keep your hands dry during a rainstorm, but they'll also help keep them warm too. Another option is purchasing a rain suit to wear over your leathers if you don't have all weather gear. Waterproof your boots prior to riding in the rain as an extra precaution. However if you still don't want to spend a few extra dollars on a rain suit and waterproofing boot spray, then another, albeit low-cost option is to wear a couple of large trash bags over your clothing and plastic grocery bags inside your boots wrapped around your socks to help with rain-proofing yourself. Riding in the rain is not fun, but it's even worse if you get soaked.

Tires - Tires with a good tread pattern on them are the safest type to use when it's raining. This is because, there's more rubber to grip the slippery road. Still, even with decent tread on the tires, pushing your two-wheeler to the limits in the rain, be it a drizzle or a downpour, is not advised unless you want to hydroplane or worse yet, lay your bike down in front of oncoming traffic.

Wait - Oil and grease on the road tends to loosen up and sit on the surface during the start of the rain, so allow a solid 15 minutes or so for cars to splash the excess muck off onto the side of the street. Otherwise, you're just asking for trouble!

Avoidances - Steer clear of the painted lines on streets and hi-ways because they become extremely slick when wet. Common sense should encourage you to ride in the path of the tire trails left by vehicles in front of you since it will be the area on the road with the least amount of water on it. Manhole covers and railroad tracks are very slick when wet too. Avoid them if at all possible, but if you must cross over them, heed with caution keeping a steady throttle.

Visor Care - To help eliminate rain from building up on your visor and impairing your vision, there are a few products on the market you can apply prior to riding such as Fog Off. This product and products like it encourage the water to roll and bounce right off of the visor. Your visor may also indeed become foggy while riding in the rain and although there are products on the market to help prevent that too, just cracking your visor open a smidge every now and again will help quickly eliminate this problem.

Though motorcycle riders generally avoid riding in the rain at all costs for obvious reasons, there is still that rare occasion that may sneak up on you and leave you in a compromising situation. Be prepared and alert so that you'll still be around to ride on future dry weather days as well!

SOUND REASONING SILENCES N.H. NOISE ORDINANCE by Bill Bish AIM/NCOM

2010-09-22T19:16:00.000-04:00

Although North Hampton, New Hampshire voters approved a noise ordinance in May that prohibits motorcycles without an EPA sticker from being operated or even parked in town, a lawyer for the federal agency has expressed that just because the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires a label on all motorcycle mufflers indicating the noise the vehicle produces does not exceed 80 decibels doesn't mean a municipality has the authority to enforce that noise level.

"The Noise Control Act (NCA), which authorizes EPA to enact noise control regulations, states that 'nothing in this section precludes or denies the right of any state or political subdivision thereof to establish and enforce controls on environmental noise,” wrote EPA Senior Assistant Regional Counsel Timothy Williamson in an Aug. 31 letter to North Hampton Town Administrator Steve Fournier. "However, neither does it grant localities any additional authority to control environmental noise beyond that available to them under state and local law."

"The ordinance basically bans motorcycles from the town if they do not have an EPA label on their exhaust system even though the motorcycles comply with the state's noise level limit of 106 decibels," said Seacoast Harley-Davidson in court papers challenging the new law.

Even the town’s own legal counsel has indicated the ordinance is unenforceable, saying that the state has already determined the appropriate noise levels for motorcycles and that the town, therefore, does not have the option of creating its own more restrictive noise ordinance.

That opinion was clearly reiterated in Williamson's letter on behalf of the EPA. "Thus, neither the NCA nor the regulations in Part 205 (of the EPA code) grant municipalities the authority to enact or enforce ordinances that supersede any limitations on their authority under state law," he wrote.

Town officials decided not to fight the Harley dealer’s request for a preliminary injunction against the enforcement of the noise ordinance. "The ordinance will remain unenforced until we have a hearing," Fournier said, indicating that the town’s new noise ordinance will not be enforced until after the judge issues a ruling on the matter.

CALIFORNIA LAWMAKERS HOPE TO HUSH LOUD PIPES by Bill Bish AIM/NCOM

2010-09-21T22:07:00.000-04:00

California is home to the largest population of motorcyclists in the country, and if legislators have their way, it could also soon be home to one of the most onerous anti-motorcycle laws in America.

By a bare majority vote of 21-16 on August 30 the state Senate approved SB435 which will make it a crime to operate a motorcycle manufactured after Jan. 1, 2013 that fails to meet federal noise-emission control standards and that all new motorcycles sold after that date must display and maintain compliance labels from the Environmental Protection Agency.

A similar bill last session would have required biennial smog checks for emissions violations, but after meeting resistance from bikers’ rights groups it has since been amended to target illegally modified exhaust systems. Supporters of the bill say that many motorcycle owners modify their exhausts to make them louder, but swapping a compliant tailpipe equipped with a catalytic converter for one without emissions controls produces more smog-forming pollutants per mile.

Opponents of the measure counter that many aftermarket exhausts meet federal EPA emissions standards but aren’t labeled, and labeling on stock systems is often difficult to locate, meaning that law-abiding riders could be unfairly ticketed. SB435 has already passed the Assembly and its fate now lies in the hands of the state’s most famous motorcycle rider, Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, whose office has not yet taken a position on the proposed legislation.

Bandit's Tour Rider Essentials

2010-09-20T20:57:00.000-04:00

If you are plan on taking a road trip this fall or winter here is a check-list of items that should help you on your trip.

Here are a few items you might want to consider including in your own personal moto-touring packing list:

Clear Contact paper or low-tack tape (great for protecting motorcycle bodywork from luggage straps and bungee cords)
Soft-hook tie-downs (great for creating bungee cord hooks)
Bungee cords
Siphon hose
Ziplock bags (thousands of uses—you can even drain gas into a bag from one bike's petcock, then pour it into another bike)
Zip-ties
Duct tape and electrical tape (wrap a small amount around each leg of the pliers in your bike's tool kit to save space)
Flat repair kit (tube or tubeless, depending on your machine)
CO2 cartridge tire inflators, or another type of inflation device
Chain master link
Handi-wipes
Cellphone / GPS Device
Bike Cover
Flashlight
Multi-tool or Swiss Army knife
Tire pressure gauge
Shop rags
Extra fuses
Extra ignition key
Towel
Aspirin
Earplugs
Sunblock
Chapstick
$20 bill hidden on Bike
Up-to-date license and registration
Spare glasses
Spare dark or light faceshield
Bandana (protect your neck from cold or your mouth from dust; or, in hot weather, soak it in water and tie it around your neck)
Laundry detergent (powder)/clothespins (for washing out a shirt in your room)
Space blanket
Lighter
Rain-X (check your windshield manufacturer for use)
Faceshield cleaner
Water (one of those backpack hydration systems can be a lifesaver in hot weather)
U-lock/disc lock
Raingear (with glove and boot covers)
Walking shoes
Weather radio
Spare helmet hardware (plastic screws)
Garbage bags (for rainproofing your luggage or even as an extra windproof layer on you in extreme cold)
Telephone calling card
Camera
Emergency medical and contact info in wallet

Windscreens Bigger May Not Be Better At All By: James R. Davis

2010-09-17T06:50:00.000-04:00

There has been a trend over the past few years of ever bigger windscreens showing up on our bikes. You cannot attend a major rally without seeing at least one vendor of these 'super-duper', 'larger-than-life', 'aerodynamic', 'custom-made', 'co-rider-friendly' pieces of plastic.

I like having a good windscreen in front of me. I like cutting most of the wind that buffets me during a long ride. I like having the bugs hit something other than my teeth. I like rain drops splashing on the plastic and then sliding up and over my head.

But I do not like their cost in terms of gasoline mileage or top-end speed. I do not like banging my forehead (excuse me - my helmet) on the windscreen when I mount my motorcycle. I dislike greatly not being able to look OVER my windscreen when things around me get dicey or visibility gets poor. I dislike reports of melted dashboards from leaving a bike in the sun at exactly the wrong time of day and pointed at the wrong angle relative to the sun.

As to 'aerodynamic', says who? Wind resistance is not just the angle at which you hit the wind. There is as much resistance caused by the vacuum behind your windscreen than from the wind hitting it in the front. The greater the 'apparent' surface area your windscreen has (the height times the width as seen from the front), the greater its resistance is, in one form or the other.

As to 'co-rider-friendly', what about 'rider-friendly' first? Have you ever driven at night and had difficulty seeing through your windscreen because your dash lights are all being reflected back at you from your new 'super-duper-swept-back' windscreen MIRROR? And should you get into an accident and find your head forced down by that windscreen that is levered over your head, what part of that new windscreen do you think your co-rider is going to hit first? (Notice how close the edge now is to her eyes?)

Like having that windscreen sweep around your grips? I guess you never did like the convenience of hanging your helmet using its D-ring and the peg that was designed to fit it?

Well, the larger screens look good. They are just right for some people. But do yourself a favor and take a ride behind one of them for a few hundred miles, day and night, before you decide to give up what you know works for one of these 'custom-made' monsters. The old one you already have just might be better than you think.

How to Pick the Perfect Motorcycle Jacket - Bike Bandit.com

2010-09-15T21:50:00.000-04:00

Riding this fall or this winter make sure you have the right jacket to protect you from all the elements that mother nature has to offer besides road rash:).

How do you tell if a girl’s a biker? Well, OK, besides the helmet hair? You check out her jacket. The right jacket can make you look like a biker off the bike, feel like one on the bike, and the perfect jacket just might literally save your skin. It’s 21st century armor, with fashion flair.

The right jacket combines comfort, safety, and fashion in an affordable, attractive package. I put comfort first, because the safest jacket doesn’t do you any good if you leave it on the hanger. Let’s talk about comfort for the two most common types of jacket: leather and mesh.

Leather – It’s the classic biker jacket material, and with good reason. A stout leather motorcycle jacket will save you from road rash, turn aside the chill of a 60-mile-an-hour wind, and turn heads when you walk into the local watering hole. A real biker’s leather jacket is heavy. Still, good heavy leather doesn’t have to be stiff. You want it to fit your torso fairly tight, so it doesn’t flap in the breeze. But it has to let you move the ways that bikers move. You should be able to turn and look behind you without taking your arms off the handlebars. I like to the fit the jacket to my chest but have side straps below to adjust to the waist. While a leather jacket that covers my butt is warm walking on a cold day, on the saddle I can turn easier if the jacket stops at the waist.

The sleeve length and cuff style are also important. The sleeve and your glove need to make a comfortable wind-blocking duo. In addition, leather jackets need a removable liner for cold weather. I like liners with elastic cuffs – they’re nice and warm. The neck of the jacket should be smooth and shouldn’t rub your motorcycle helmet or your throat when you turn your head. When the sun’s beating down on you riding out to Sturgis, you want air – zip-open mesh on your forearms, a couple of vents in the front, and two long vertical vents on your back.

Mesh – I discovered the joys of mesh motorcycle jackets when I first rode south from my native Minnesota to Arkansas in the heat of July. Mesh jacket makers have discovered a way to keep you cool with lots of airflow and somehow I never even got sunburned. It’s easy to move in a mesh jacket, and comfort seems to be affected by only two things: the padding and the liner. Padding in a mesh jacket is there for your protection. The pads help protect from road rash, but they are designed to protect you from impact.

There is removable padding in the shoulders, elbows, and back, tucked into pockets in the jacket. You want to be sure the padding in the right place for you. The liners for mesh jackets have some challenges- they often designed to be warm and waterproof at the same time. The ones that succeed at both and are comfortable usually have some kind of breathability – you don’t want to trade cold and breezy for warm and clammy.

So there you have it – serious women bikers have a number of choices. Consider where you live, how you ride, and what you ride, and there should be a perfect motorcycle jacket out there for you.

Extend Your Riding Season: Cold Weather Strategies - Bill Andrews

2010-09-14T19:16:00.000-04:00

For those that just can't stop riding because just because it's Winter here are some great tips to help your winter riding season a little bit easier.

Old man winter lets loose a final blast to knock that last orange leaf to the ground. For some, it's time to roll the two-wheeled companion into a corner of the garage, throw the battery on a trickle charger, and hope for an early spring. For others, there is no end to the riding season, just a change in riding gear.

No, we're not talking about those who live in perpetual sunshine and warmth, but rather, folks who don't let cold weather deprive them of their favorite form of transportation. With a little knowledge and a few cold weather tricks, your riding season can be extended.

Here are some strategies for dealing with the worst winter has to offer:

Ice

Black ice — really just an ominous name for hard-to-see frozen water on the road — can occur any time the temperature has been near the freezing point, or where frost can form. Some touring bikes have an air-temperature thermometer, but adding one to any bike is a cheap fix.

Bridges are susceptible to icing because they are disconnected from the warmth of the Earth and cool faster when air temperatures drop. Watch for spots on the road that are shaded from the sun. Well-traveled roads are often better, because passing traffic melts and dries the moisture.

If you do feel like you're on an icy patch, don't make any sudden moves, and don't touch the brakes. Pull in the clutch and let the bike coast until you're clear.

Hypothermia

That cold shiver up your spine isn't just uncomfortable. It could also be a warning. Hypothermia occurs when your core body temperature drops significantly, and it can be deadly. Temperatures don't need to be below freezing to induce hypothermia. Wind chill gets worse as wind speeds increase, and the longer you're out, the worse it gets.

One early sign of potential hypothermia occurs when you start feeling cold and you can't decide if you should pull over or not. The answer is always yes, but your judgment may be clouded. Long before this point occurs, you should have pulled into that nice warm cafe and had some hot chocolate or soup.

Uncontrolled shivering and chattering teeth are signs of real danger. You may start to feel dizzy, or even drunk, as your muscles begin to stiffen. Continued exposure may cause the shivering to slow down or even stop, but by then you're in serious trouble.

The Well-Dressed Rider

How do you mitigate the dangers of cold weather? First of all, cover up. It all boils down to insulating your body. To do that, you need to layer.

Synthetics work better for your inner layer than cotton, which holds moisture against your skin. On top of that, wear fleece, wool, or other layers that provide insulation. The idea is to let your body create a warm pocket of air between you and the environment.

Finally, you need to stop the environment from stealing your warm air. Your outer layer needs to block the wind. Leather works; denim, for example, doesn't. These days, we also have a broad array of choices in nylon gear made specifically for motorcycling that provides versatile weather protection with vents, removable liners, waterproof membranes, adjustable fit, etc. If you choose outerwear that isn't waterproof, such as a leather jacket, be sure to carry a rainsuit that fits over it. Getting wet robs you of your insulation.

Whichever outer layer you choose, remember that it should provide crash protection, too. Buy gear made for motorcycling, not the fashion show.

Hands can be particularly vulnerable to the cold. Gauntlet-style gloves will help you seal the gap between gloves and jacket. Gloves with a breathable, waterproof liner will keep rain out while allowing moisture from perspiration to escape.

It may be obvious, but a full-face helmet will keep you warmer than no helmet, or an open-face helmet. Sealing the area around your neck with a bandanna, or better yet a fleece or wind- and waterproof neck warmer, can make a dramatic difference. A balaclava (right) under the helmet provides a lot of additional comfort for minimal bulk.

What About the Bike?

No matter how well you're dressed, cold air has a way of sneaking in and robbing heat. The longer you're on the road, the worse it gets. Your front line in the defense against cold is to block the wind.

A windshield or fairing is a good front-line defense. Mounting a small windshield on your handlebars, if your bike doesn't have one, can be enough to divert the wind off your chest and help keep your upper-body vital organs warm.

Going Electric

No matter how well you dress, if you're on the road long enough, you'll lose more heat than your body can generate. Long riders resort to electrical assistance. Heated clothing, which uses your bike's electrical system to power heating elements, makes a huge difference by not just insulating you, but adding heat to the whole equation.

Gloves start around $100. Vests, depending on the style, can go from $100 to $200. Socks can range from simple D-cell powered items that sell for around $25, to $90 systems that hook into the rest of your electric riding gear.

Make sure your charging system can handle the load. Find out the output of your charging system, add up the draw from all your electrical gear, and make sure you're not draining your battery. Also, leave a margin of error, because your bike's output may be measured at cruising rpms and it may produce considerably less electrical power at idle.

For many riders, a vest alone is enough. If you keep your torso warm, your body will focus on pumping warm blood to your extremities. If you torso gets cold, you body will abandon the extremities to try to keep the vital organs warm, and that's when you can suffer from dangerously numb hands or, possibly, frostbitten toes.

Chemical Options

Another option is a lightweight, disposable heat pack, which offers a different kind of protection.

Imagine you're out for a ride on a nice fall day. You're so consumed with the changing leaves that you don't notice how far you've ridden. It's getting dark and cold — fast. A bit of quick heat can make all the difference.

An outdoor gear store, or even one of the big-box retailers that sell recreational goods, will have chemical packs of the type hunters use. Be careful, because some can produce up to 150 degrees, so don't put them next to bare skin.

Keep Hydrated

One last thing to think about — that you might not think about: Drink lots of liquids. Dehydration may be foremost in your mind in the hot months, but you still lose moisture in winter. Cold, dry winter air can suck moisture out of you and you may not notice that you're perspiring.

How to Prepare Your Bike for Winter--Bike Bandit.com

2010-09-13T20:39:00.000-04:00

Unfortunately for most of us summer is over as well as our riding season so we must all begin to think about winterizing our motorcycles so we can do it all over again in the Spring of 2011.

Water is the eternal enemy of your bike’s inner works, and a bike that hasn’t been properly winterized is a sitting target for creeping moisture. A properly winterized bike is safe from moisture and corrosive compounds. When you do it right, you can start your motorcycle right up when spring arrives and be ready to hit the road.

Clean Your Bike

Cleaning your motorcycle may seem simple, but it’s an essential step in winterizing. Bug splatters and corrosive chemicals that are allowed to sit on your bike over the winter can damage your motorcycle’s finish. Give your bike a thorough all-over wash, and make sure it’s dry before you store it.

Coat Engine and Spark Plugs in Engine Oil

The engine and motorcycle spark plugs are prime targets for moisture over a long period of disuse. To protect your bike, you’ll need to coat your piston rings, valve seats and cylinder walls in engine oil. Start by warming up the engine to drive off moisture. Remove the spark plugs, and squirt some warm engine oil into the holes. Turn the engine over by hand to coat the cylinder walls, and then replace the plugs.

Change the Oil

The chemical makeup of your motorcycle oil can change over long periods of disuse and become acidic. To protect your engine, change your oil before storing for the winter. Ideally, you should change oil again in the spring, so it’s not necessary to change your oil filter for winter. However, if you plan to ride in the spring without changing the oil again, change your filter now.

Lube Everything

Before you park your bike for the season, lube everything that needs lubing. Lube your throttle and clutch cables. If your bike is a chain drive, clean and lube the chain. If you’re feeling really ambitious, lube your motorcycle pivot points, such as shifter, kick stand and foot pegs. Anything you’d normally lube during routine maintenance, lube.

Fill the Gas Tank and Add Stabilizer

Moisture is bad for metal, and your gas tank is made of metal. This means you’ve got two ways to safely store it for the winter: drain it completely and make sure it’s dried out, or fill the gas tank full and add fuel stabilizer. The simple option is to fill up the tank on the way home from your last outing, and add fuel stabilizer based on the capacity of your tank. A full tank prevents moisture from creeping in and fuel stabilizer keeps your gasoline from turning into sludge over the winter - very important if you want to avoid expensive repairs when spring arrives.

Store Your Battery on a Tender

It’s not good for your motorcycle battery to be left alone in your bike for a long period of time, and leaving it for the winter definitely counts. Remove your battery from your motorcycle and store it on a battery tender. At the same time, check the fluid level in your battery and clean any corrosion from the posts. If your bike has the right connection, you may be able to plug a trickle charger in to your bike without removing the battery.

Drain the Float Bowls

In a carbureted bike, you may want to drain the float bowls. To drain the float bowls, you’ll need to turn your fuel petcock off and drain the gasoline from the bowls. Every bike is different, so consult your owner’s manual for details. Gas that you don’t drain can turn into sludge and hamper your bike’s performance in the spring, and potentially lead to costly repairs.

Make Sure Your Bike Coolant is Safe

If you’re storing your bike in physically cool temperatures, use a hygrometer to check the anti-freeze. You may need to add anti-freeze to protect your bike’s system. You should drain and replace the antifreeze every two years as part of your winterization process.

Protect Your Bike from Moisture

If you’re storing your bike on bare concrete, roll your bike onto a piece of old carpet, plywood or MDF. Moisture can collect and ruin your rubber tires if you let your bike sit on cold concrete. Check your tire air pressure periodically and top it up as the temperatures drop.

Plug Your Pipes to Protect from Pests

Rodents and other small pests may try to climb into your motorcycle exhaust to shelter for the winter. Plug your pipes to protect your bike from small pests. Make sure you remember to remove the plugs before you go for your first spring ride!

Store Your Bike Covered

Store your bike under a breathable motorcycle cover. If possible, store your bike in a heated garage; if not, make sure you complete the winterization process to protect your bike from moisture. With proper winterization, even a bike that’s stored outdoors can be ready to start up and run smoothly when spring arrives.

MINNESOTA CLAIMS VICTORY FOR CUSTOM MOTORCYCLE BUILDERS by Bill Bish NCOM

2010-08-19T13:54:00.000-04:00

The state patrol in Minnesota, like many other police agencies, use license plate scanners in their patrol cars that can read up to 1,000 plates per minute, but they are unable to read the vertical plates on some custom motorcycles. “It didn’t take too much to sneak a new law through and after the 2008 session vertical plates were illegal,” said Todd Riba, ABATE of MN Legislative Director, “but not for long.” ABATE of Minnesota’s lobbying team and State Coordinator started to work on the problem, and State Senators Amy Koch and Ray Vandeveer stepped forward to carry their bill.

The state patrol didn’t want to give up its ability to read motorcycle plates, but ABATE didn’t want the custom bike folks to lose the right to trick out their rides. It took a lot of creative thinking to come up with a solution, but in the end that’s what happened. The bill passed and the Governor signed it into law, becoming effective August 1st. Here is how it works: the DVS will offer vertical reading license plates. You will be able to mount these plates in vertical license plate brackets and law enforcement’s scanners will still be able to read them. The plates can be ordered just like vanity plates and riders will have to pay an extra fee, but these new vertical reading plates should keep you out of trouble and if you sell the bike you can keep the plate for your next custom ride.

LOUD BIKES LOSE RIGHTS by Bill Bish - National Coalition of Motorcyclists (NCOM)

2010-08-18T17:51:00.000-04:00

Another wonderful article by Bill Bish of National Coalition of Motorcyclists(NCOM). They just won't leave us alone with our pipes. We have to being to stand up for our rights because there are a lot more things these so-called politicians need to be worry about, for instance jobs, education, housing, etc. Is it that serious that this may become a National issue? I've said before and I will say it again "Loud Pipes Saves Lives & My Pipe Is My Voice!"

Municipalities from coast to coast are giving motorcycles the silent treatment, and riders rights groups and industry analysts fear that a wave of ordinances aimed at muffling noisy bikes will create a confusing patchwork of laws nationwide and could turn frustrated riders away from the $12 billion motorcycle marketplace. Laws restricting motorcycle noise have been around for years and come in many forms; some are against certain types of products such as a New York City ordinance that subjects riders to a minimum $400 ticket for having an exhaust system that can be heard within 200 feet, while others are aimed more at the intent of the operator such as a Lancaster, Penn., ordinance that makes it illegal for riders to over-rev their engines.

In Denver, which passed a unique muffler law three years ago that requires EPA labeling to be displayed on pipes to prevent bikers from installing louder after-market exhausts, Aid to Injured Motorcyclists (A.I.M.) attorney Wade Eldridge was recently quoted in a local CBS-4 story investigating the controversial attempt to reduce noise emissions. Eldridge, who specializes in representing motorcycle riders in accident and insurance law cases and who is a rider himself, was quoted in the July 23rd interview as saying: “I think it (the Denver loud noise law) was something the city council passed that they knew was unenforceable,” and suggested that to fight back “those who receive tickets should demand trials.” Though rarely enforced since Eldridge won a key case against the Denver noise ordinance, with only 46 tickets handed out to date, police in Golden citing state law have issued 81 noise violations in the last 6 months.

The city is using a Colorado state statute, C.R.S. 42-4-225 that requires that vehicles be equipped with an “adequate” muffler, and outlaws any “excessive or unusual” noise. According to Eldridge, "the law lends itself to arbitrary and discriminatory enforcement -- the police can stop you for whatever reason." “The powers that be in the City of Golden have apparently made a political decision that they don’t want us in their city,” observed Eldridge, adding that; “The police department will continue stopping us, and writing these tickets, until enough people PLEAD NOT GUILTY AND INSIST ON A TRIAL… when the court is backlogged with these cases, we will see some official pressure to stop them.” In the meantime, further information on fighting such tickets can be found on the website of the Colorado Confederation of Clubs (www.colorado-coc.com), of which Eldridge serves as legal counsel.

Motorcycle Recalls

2010-08-12T15:31:00.000-04:00

Everyday we surf the web to locate information that we can share with our readers of Biker-Space.com whether it is sharing videos, information on safety and riding, or just anything on motorcycles and we came across this article on motorcyclistonline.com and this is one issues that we can honestly say we never thought about motorcycle recalls. That even though I purchased my bike new that there maybe something wrong with it. We automatically assume everything is good. Well know more. We at Biker-Space.com have been educated and we hope to pass this information along and educate others.

While there’s plenty of press on car, truck, or SUV recalls, little is mentioned about recalls on motorcycles.

The fact is a bit surprising. In 2005, 87,000 motorcyclists were injured while over 4,500 were killed, a 14 percent and 13 percent increase, respectively, from 2004. While many were related to (lack of) driving skills, weather, other vehicles, and simply bad luck, some were related to defects found in the motorcycle itself.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) provides service bulletins and posts recall information on its website. Recalls can be found in the Office of Defects Investigation at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm. To discover if your motorcycle has a recall against it, at the site, select “Vehicle”, its year, make, and model. You will then see if any component of the motorcycle has a recall attached to it.

Note that even if the NHTSA site does not list a recall, motorcycle manufacturers sometimes issue their own. You may want to check their websites periodically or call their toll-free number.

Everyone assumes that when they buy a new motorcycle that everything is in working order. But other factors, including design issues or simple material stresses, can make the perfect bike less than optimal. Recalls are useful because it gives the motorcycle companies the chance to quickly resolve the issues so that customers are safe and satisfied with their rides for years—and miles—to come.

For a list of the most recent motorcycle recalls please go to:

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/index.html

http://www.allmotorcyclerecalls.com/