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MY NEW HOME!

2015-08-31T22:11:00.001-04:00

After a long absence, I have finally been able to come back and run a true prepping and survival blog. I now have a new and better website! It is called http://prepandsurvial.com/ come check it out, and join me in growing a prepping and survival community!

How To Purify Water

2014-05-20T20:19:00.001-04:00

How To Purify Water

“Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink,” as the old saying goes. A more apt statement for these times might be, “water, water everywhere, but is it safe to drink?” And if it’s not, what is a reliable water purification process?
Sadly, in this day and age there are few, if any, places where the water is safe to drink without treating, no matter how pristine and inviting it may look.
Water in the wild often contains harmful microorganisms, bacteria and parasites that can cause a variety of ailments, such as giardia, dysentery, hepatitis, and hookworms.

I. How to Purify Water — Water Purification Process: boiling

The simplest method to purify water is probably boiling.
You need to bring the water to a full, rolling boil for at least five minutes to be safe, with some experts recommending an even longer time. The down side to boiling your drinking water is that it removes the oxygen and the water ends up tasting flat. You can improve its quality by pouring it back and forth between two containers to put oxygen back in, or simply shake it up.

II. Water Purification Process: purifiers

There are also several chemical purifiers on the market. Iodine comes in either liquid form, (which can be messy), or tablet form.
One to two tablets or drops will clear up a quart of water. Shake your water bottle or container and wait twenty minutes before drinking. Water treated with iodine will have a darker color and a bit of an unpleasant flavor.
It is possible to mask this flavor by adding a powdered drink mix, but be sure to wait the twenty minutes before adding it, as it will interfere with the iodine’s effectiveness.
Other chemical treatments to purify water that work similarly to iodine are chlorine tablets, potassium permanganate, or halazone tablets. You should be able to pick these up fairly cheaply at most outdoor stores.
You can even add a few drops of bleach in a pinch, though I wouldn’t recommend overusing this one. It is important when using chemical purification to make sure all surfaces have been decontaminated.
After waiting the twenty minutes, slightly unscrew the lid of your water bottle or container and rinse around the threads and lid. The nice thing about using tablets is the container is very small and portable and can be slipped into a pocket, a plus if you do not want to carry a stove or pot, or take the time to boil water. Chemical treatment can be done on the hoof with minimal stopping time.

III. Water Purification Process: filters

A third method of treatment is commercial filters. These come in all shapes, sizes and price ranges. Most work by pushing the water through a charcoal or ceramic filter and then chemically treating it. Normally, they have one hose with a float that goes from the water source to the filter and a second hose, for clean water, that goes from filter to water bottle. When using this type of filter it is important to not cross contaminate the hoses. Keep the clean hose in a separate plastic bag so it never touches the contaminated hose. The plus side to this method of how to purify water is that there is no flat or funky flavor. Commercial filters are also good for when the water is on the murky or dirty side, as they will remove this also. The drawback is that the sediment or tannins that you are filtering out will quickly clog up the filter. Some can be cleaned, with others you need to buy a replacement filter. Like all technical equipment, cost and breakage are things to be considered.

IV. Water Purification Process: primitive methods

Beyond these common methods, there are more primitive techniques for the serious survivalists (or the unlucky person who was caught unprepared).
One is filtering through soil or, preferably, sand. Keep rinsing the water repeatedly through the sand until it is looking clear. A variation of this is to dig a hole near where the source is and use the water that filters through into the hole. Be aware, that although soil is a good filter for sediment and other particles, it is not a guarantee for things like bacteria. This is even true for spring water, which many people assume is safe to drink without treatment.
Distilling is a method that can be used for either collecting water or gathering fresh water out of salt water.
To collect water from the ground, dig a deep hole and place a collecting container or water bottle in the center.
Cover the hole with a clear sheet of plastic. The plastic needs to be weighted in the center with a rock or heavy object so that it points down into the container.
Then, secure the sides of the plastic tightly around the hole, such as by covering with dirt. The clear plastic acts like a greenhouse. The water in the soil evaporates as it heats up. When it hits the plastic it runs down to the point and drips off into the container. If all you have is salt water, you can distill it by placing a small pot inside a larger pot. The salty water goes in the larger pot but not the smaller one.
Invert a lid over the pots that will point down into the smaller pot, then bring the water to a boil. As the water boils, fresh water will evaporate, hit the lid and drip down into the smaller pot, leaving the salt, or other minerals behind.
An alternative if you don’t have a smaller pot is to put a cloth over the pot the will absorb the steam. Use caution when removing it to wring it out so you don’t get burned.
For another primitive method of how to purify water, see our article on Boiling Water with Stones.

Above all, be cautious and use common sense when choosing where to gather your water.

Do the plants surrounding it look healthy?
Are there dead animals near by that might have contaminated it?
Don’t collect any water that looks stagnant. Generally, water that is further upstream will be cleaner than that downstream, but there are no guarantees.
Don’t automatically go for the fasting rushing water, as fast water carries more sediment. You can avoid picking up a lot of sediment by making sure you dunk your water bottle completely under the water. This will avoid all the dirt and debris that floats on the surface.
With so many ways to purify water, there should be something for everyone and no reason to ever take chances drinking untreated water.

Determining Directions Without a Compass

2014-04-13T21:20:00.000-04:00

DETERMINING DIRECTIONS WITHOUT A COMPASS

There are two types of compasses, (a) liquid filled and (b) non-liquid filled. Liquid filled means the compass is filled with some special liquid so the magnetic needle floats freely inside of it. Non-liquid filled means there's no liquid inside of it (duh?) but instead the magnetic needle is able to rotate freely while being balanced on one or two pins inside the compass. So which is better? They both have their pros and cons, the only difference is that the North seeking magnetic needles inside liquid filled compasses rotate & move slower than non-liquid filled compasses. But regardless of which type of generl direction compass you have or get with your survival kit, they're a lot more easier to use in determining directions than these techniques below "without a compass."

SUN & STICK METHOD(Sunlight required)


Steps 1, 2, & 3	Steps 4 & 5	Steps 6 & 7

Step 1: Try to find some flat level area with very little or no vegetation at all.
Step 2: Place a straight stick upright into the ground and find the stick's shadow.
Step 3: Now place your 1st rock at the tip of the stick's shadow, this is your "West"mark.
Step 4: Wait approximately 15, 20 or 30 minutes for the stick's shadow to move a few inches.
Step 5: Now place another rock at the tip of this other stick's shadow, this is your "East" mark.
Step 6: Now draw a straight line or place a straight stick from your "East" rock to your "West" rock.
Step 7: And now draw another straight line or place another straight stick across your "East-to-West" line/stick and this is now your "North-South" line/stick.

Note: The instructions listed above is for the Northern hemisphere, for the Southern hemisphere the only difference is that North and South are reversed, East and West remain the same.

CLOCK METHOD(Sunlight required)


Northern Hemisphere	Southern Hemisphere
Step 1: Point the hour hand at the sun	Step 1: Point 12 O'clock at the sun
Step 2: South is located halfway between the hour hand and 12 O'clock. North is in the opposite directions	Step 2: North is located halfway between 12 O'clock and the "hour hand." South is in the opposite direction.

CLOUDY DAY METHOD(When there's no sunlight.)

Step 1: Place a sharp pointed knife vertically on your thumb nail.
Step 2: Look closely at your thumb nail and find the lightly cast knife shadow.
Step 3: Now rotate your entire body until the lightly cast knife shadow is at it's thinnest.
Step 4: If it's morning (0700-1100) you will be facing an Easterly direction, mid day (1100-1300)
you will be facing a Southernly direction, and in the afternoon you will be facing a Westernly direction.

Note: Though this method is less accurate than the other two methods. But if you don't have a compass or any sunlight it's hellova lot better than flipping a coin in determing a direction, don't ya think? Remember if you're located in the Southern hemisphere "South" and "North" are reversed.

MOON & STAR METHOD(Stars & moon required)


Finding North by using the stars	Finding South by using the moon
The North star can be found between the big dipper's last two "pot" stars that's in line with the last star of the little dipper's handle and the Cassiopeia	Draw an imaginary line or hold up a straight stick from one moon crescent point to the other and directly below it on the horizon you will find South

TREE METHOD(No sunlight required)


Wider grain on South side	Moss grows on the North side
In the Northern hemisphere trees with thick, rough, linear bark, the up & down grain lines are usually wider on the South side and tighter on North side.	In the Northen hemisphere moss found near the base of trees usually grows on the Northern side where the sun's rays don't reach.

The 100 most important items you will need when the shit hits the fan

2013-07-07T22:01:00.002-04:00

The 100 most important things you’ll need to survive after the grid collapses!! These items (Not in order, just randomly listed) are things you will need if you made it through bugging out and now you’re at your check point.

All items on this list are important; the first 51 are the most important. Items 52 – 87 will make living much easier!! Items 88 – 100 are equally important to acquire; they serve a very important purpose as well!! Rev. 12/26/10.

1. Generators/Solar panels (Good ones cost dearly. Gas storage can be risky. Generators are noisy, draws attention to your location, target of thieves; maintenance)

2. Water Filters/Purifiers (.1 or .2 micron to prevent diarrhea/illness) purification tablets

3. Bleach and Lye!! (plain bleach, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)

4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to become dried.

5. Lamp Oil, kerosene, Wicks, Lamps (Buy CLEAR unscented oil.)

6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much.

7. Guns, Ammo, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats, slingshots, gun power, pellets, BB’s, wick, bombs. You can never have too many weapons or ammo!! Stock up!! Hide them!!

8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks.

9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar, iodized salt

10. Rice - Beans - Wheat

11. Vegetable Oil A MUST!!(For cooking) Without it food burns or must be boiled)

12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly)

13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY - note - food grade if for drinking.

14. Mini Heater head (Propane) (Without this item, propane won't heat a room.)

15. Socks, Underwear, long & short sleeve shirts/ winter clothes and gear, camo!!

16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.)

17. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, chicken, tuna, beef, pork, rice, beans, pasta, sauces, you can never have too much food!!

18. Lanterns, mantles, glass globes, Coleman, Aladdin, etc. (For long-term lighting)

19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula, ointments/aspirin etc.

20. Paraffin wax, baby oil, cocoa butter, canola oil, bee’s wax

21. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts

22. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky

23. Boy Scout Handbook, survival guide, also Leaders Catalog

24. Feminine Hygiene/Hair care/Skin products/ sun screen.

25. Thermal underwear wool and cotton mix, polypropylene (Tops & Bottoms)

26. Bow saws, axes, hatchets, Wedges, honing oil, shovel, rake, hoe,

27. "Survival-in-a-Can"

28. Reading glasses

29. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)

30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, alcohol, peroxide, eye drops, Paper Towels, hand soap, dish soap

31. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)

32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid A MUST)

33. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.

34. Baby wipes, baby oil, cocoa butter, bees wax, hand creams and lotions, waterless & Antibacterial gel soap (saves a lot of water)

35. Tuna Fish (in oil)

36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room)

37. First aid kits, lots of different bandages, spray on, arm slings, knee and arm supports, crutches,

38. Batteries (all sizes...buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates)

39. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats

40. Knives, Sharpening tools, files, stones, steel, machete, filet, survival, multi tool

41. Survival Guide Book.

42. "Strike Anywhere" matches Boxed, wooden, lighters, magnesium fire striker, Vaseline cotton balls, trioxine.

43. Garden tools & supplies

44. Backpacks, Duffel Bags

45. Work boots, hiking insulated boots, Levis, durable shirts, hunting & military camo

46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, "No. 76 Dietz" Lanterns

47. Candles and a Bible

48. Tarps / stakes / twine / nails / rope / spikes / duck tape

49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers

50. Vitamins, cold, flu, and diarrhea medicine, cough tablets & syrup, Vicks vapor rub!!

51. Fishing supplies/tackle box/poles/tools

52. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies

53. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit

54. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs, gloves, mittens, scarves

55. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)

56. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,)

57. Cigarettes, tobacco for smoking, chewing or trading.

58. Coffee / powered creamer/ sugar / artificial sweetener

59. Teas

60. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, zip ties - all sizes, rope

61. Lantern Hangers

62. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.

63. Cots & Inflatable mattress's

64. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from)

65. Tool box, hammer, wrenches all types, screw drivers, pliers, hacksaw, black & duct tape, extension cords, bungee cords, hose & "C" clamps, screen patches,

66. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens 67. /Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)

68. Soy sauce, vinegar, bullions/gravy/soup base

69. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks)

70. Critter snap traps to catch rabbits, coons and the like to eat!!

71. Board Games, Cards, Dice

72. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc

73. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax)

74. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies

75. Laundry Detergent (liquid)

76. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams

77. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)

78. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels

79. Insulated ice chests are good for keeping items from freezing in winter time.

80. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators

81. Flour, yeast & iodized salt

82. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months)

83. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many).

84. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal)

85. Propane Cylinders and base Holders (The small canisters are dangerous without the base holder; they tip over and catch fire!!)

86. Duct Tape

87. Cook stoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene)

88. Chewing gum/candies

89. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO)

90. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)

91. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experiences)

92. Grain Grinder (Non-electric)

93. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)

94. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item)

95. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)

96. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food)

97. Portable Toilets

98. Mousetraps, Ant & cockroach traps, d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer

99. Lumber (all types)

100. Goats/chickens/cows

From a Sarajevo War Survivor: Experiencing horrible things that can happen in a war - death of parents and friends, hunger and malnutrition, endless freezing cold, fear, sniper attacks.

1. Stockpiling helps, but you never know how long trouble will last, so locate near renewable water and food sources.

2. Living near a well with a manual pump is like being in Eden.

3. After awhile, even gold can lose its luster. But there is no luxury in war quite like toilet paper. Its surplus value is greater than gold's.

4. If you had to go without one utility, lose electricity - it's the easiest to do without (unless you're in a very nice climate with no need for heat.)

5. Canned foods are awesome, especially if their contents are tasty without heating. One of the best things to stockpile is canned gravy - it makes a lot of the dry unappetizing things you find to eat in war somewhat edible. Only needs enough heat to "warm", not to cook. It's cheap too, especially if you buy it in bulk.

6. Bring some books - escapist ones like romance or mysteries become more valuable as the war continues. Sure, it's great to have a lot of survival guides, but you'll figure most of that out on your own anyway - trust me, you'll have a lot of time on your hands.

7. The feeling that you're human can fade pretty fast. I can't tell you how many people I knew who would have traded a much needed meal for just a little bit of toothpaste, rouge, soap or cologne. Not much point in fighting if you have to lose your humanity. These things are morale-builders like nothing else.

8. Slow burning candles and matches, lighters and magnesium fire strikers

The Government is watching you

2012-09-19T16:50:00.002-04:00

Every Breath You Take, Every Move You Make – 14 New Ways That The Government Is Watching You

The American Dream
November 3, 2011

If you live in the United States today, you need to understand that your privacy is being constantly eroded. Our world is going crazy, government paranoia is off the charts and law enforcement authorities have become absolutely obsessed with watching us, listening to us, tracking us, recording us, compiling information on all of us and getting us all to spy on one another. If you doubt that we are rapidly getting to the point where the government will monitor every breath you take and every move you make, just read the rest of this article. The truth is that the government is watching you more closely than ever, and they are spending billions upon billions of dollars to enhance their surveillance capabilities even further. If our society stays on this current path, we will eventually have zero privacy left. At this point, it is not too hard to imagine a society where we will not be able to say anything, buy anything, sell anything, assemble with others or even leave our homes without government permission. We truly are descending into a dystopian nightmare and the American people had better wake up.

Sadly, most people living in the United States and in Europe do not realize what is happening. Most of them think that everything is just fine. The “Big Brother control grid” that is being constructed all over the western world squeezes all of us just a little bit tighter every single day, and most people don’t even feel it.

But when you step back and take a look at the big picture, it truly is horrifying.

The following are 14 new ways that the government is watching you….

#1 In many areas of the United States today, you will be arrested if you do not produce proper identification for the police. In the old days, “your papers please” was a phrase that we used to use to mock the tyranny of Nazi Germany. But now all of us are being required to be able to produce “our papers” for law enforcement authorities at any time. For example, a 21-year-old college student named Samantha Zucker was recently arrested and put in a New York City jail for 36 hours just because she could not produce any identification for police.

#2 The federal government has decided that what you and I share with one another on Facebook and on Twitter could be a threat to national security. According to a recent Associated Press article, the Department of Homeland Security will soon be “gleaning information from sites such as Twitter and Facebook for law enforcement purposes”.

Other law enforcement agencies are getting into the act as well. For example, the NYPD recently created a special “social media” unit dedicated to looking for criminals on social media networks such as Facebook and Twitter.

#3 New high-tech street lights that are being funded by the federal government and that are being installed all over the nation can also be used as surveillance cameras, can be used by the DHS to make “security announcements” and can even be used to record personal conversations. The following is from a recent article by Paul Joseph Watson for Infowars.com….

Federally-funded high-tech street lights now being installed in American cities are not only set to aid the DHS in making “security announcements” and acting as talking surveillance cameras, they are also capable of “recording conversations,” bringing the potential privacy threat posed by ‘Intellistreets’ to a whole new level.

#4 More than a million hotel television sets all over America are now broadcasting propaganda messages from the Department of Homeland Security promoting the “See Something, Say Something” campaign. In essence, the federal government wants all of us to become “informants” and to start spying on one another constantly. The following comes from an article posted by USA Today….

Starting today, the welcome screens on 1.2 million hotel television sets in Marriott, Hilton, Sheraton, Holiday Inn and other hotels in the USA will show a short public service announcement from DHS. The 15-second spot encourages viewers to be vigilant and call law enforcement if they witness something suspicious during their travels.

#5 The FBI is now admittedly recording Internet talk radio programs all over the United States. The following comes from a recent article by Mark Weaver of WMAL.com….

If you call a radio talk show and get on the air, you might be recorded by the FBI.

The FBI has awarded a $524,927 contract to a Virginia company to record as much radio news and talk programming as it can find on the Internet.

The FBI says it is not playing big brother by policing the airwaves, but rather seeking access to what airs as potential evidence.

Potential evidence of what?

This is very creepy. Why is the FBI so interested in what is being said during Internet talk radio programs?

#6 TSA VIPR teams are now conducting random inspections at bus stations and on interstate highways all over the United States. For example, the following comes from a local news report down in Tennessee….

You’re probably used to seeing TSA’s signature blue uniforms at the airport, but now agents are hitting the interstates to fight terrorism with Visible Intermodal Prevention and Response (VIPR).

“Where is a terrorist more apt to be found? Not these days on an airplane more likely on the interstate,” said Tennessee Department of Safety & Homeland Security Commissioner Bill Gibbons.

Tuesday Tennessee was first to deploy VIPR simultaneously at five weigh stations and two bus stations across the state.

#7 Thermal imaging face scanners are becoming much more sophisticated. Law enforcement authorities in the western world are getting very excited about “pre-crime” tools such as this that will enable them to “prevent crimes” before they happen. The following is from a recent BBC News article….

A sophisticated new camera system can detect lies just by watching our faces as we talk, experts say.

The computerised system uses a simple video camera, a high-resolution thermal imaging sensor and a suite of algorithms.

Researchers say the system could be a powerful aid to security services.

But face scanners are not just a tool that will be used in the future. The truth is that face scanners are being used all over the United States right now. The following comes from an article posted on Singularity Hub….

Law enforcement continues to adopt new technologies in an effort to make their jobs easier and keep us safer. The latest gizmo attaches to officers’ iPhones and turns them into biometric face scanners. The scanners have already been street tested in Massachusetts. Pretty soon cops all across the US will be using them to ID suspects.

Before long, technology like this will be all over America. In fact, the FBI has announced that it will be activating a “nationwide facial recognition service” in January.

#8 Another “pre-crime” technology currently being tested by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security is The Future Attribute Screening Technology (FAST) program. The following description of this new program comes from an article in the London Telegraph….

Using cameras and sensors the “pre-crime” system measures and tracks changes in a person’s body movements, the pitch of their voice and the rhythm of their speech.

It also monitors breathing patterns, eye movements, blink rate and alterations in body heat, which are used to assess an individual’s likelihood to commit a crime.

The Future Attribute Screening Technology (FAST) programme is already being tested on a group of government employees who volunteered to act as guinea pigs.

Do you want government officials to pull you aside and interrogate you just because you are feeling a little bit nervous one particular day?

#9 Sadly, “pre-crime” technology is even being used on our children. The Florida State Department of Juvenile Justice has announced that it will begin using analysis software to predict crime by young delinquents and will place “potential offenders” in specific prevention and education programs.

How soon will it be before this type of things is applied to adults?

#10 Our children are being programmed to accept the fact that they will be watched and monitored constantly. For example, the U.S. Department of Agriculture is spending large amounts of money to install surveillance camerasin the cafeterias of public schools all across the nation so that government control freaks can closely monitor what our children are eating.

#11 The U.S. government is also increasingly using “polls” and “surveys” as tools to gather information about all of us. In previous articles, I have noted how government authorities seems particularly interested in our children. According toMike Adams of Natural News, the CDC is starting to call parents all over the U.S. to question them about the vaccination status of their children….

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control, which has been comprehensively exposed as a vaccine propaganda organization promoting the interests of drug companies, is now engaged in a household surveillance program that involves calling U.S. households and intimidating parents into producing child immunization records. As part of what it deems a National Immunization Survey(NIS), the CDC is sending letters to U.S. households, alerting them that they will be called by “NORC at the University of Chicago” and that households should “have your child’s immunization records handy when answering our questions.”

You can see a copy of the letter that the CDC has been sending out to selected parents right here.

#12 As I have written about previously, a very disturbing document that Oath Keepers has obtained shows that the FBI is now instructing store owners to report many new forms of “suspicious activity” to them. According to the document, “suspicious activity” now includes the following….

*paying with cash

*missing a hand or fingers

*”strange odors”

*making “extreme religious statements”

*”radical theology”

*purchasing weatherproofed ammunition or match containers

*purchasing meals ready to eat

*purchasing night vision devices, night flashlights or gas masks

Do any of those “signs of suspicious activity” apply to you?

According to a report on WorldNetDaily, this document is part of a “series of brochures” that will be distributed “to farm supply stores, gun shops, military surplus stores and even hotels and motels.”

#13 In some areas of the country, law enforcement authorities are pulling data out of cell phones for no reason whatsoever. According to the ACLU, state police in Michigan are now using “extraction devices” to download data from the cell phones of motorists that they pull over. This is taking happening even if the motorists that are pulled over are not accused of doing anything wrong.

The following is how a recent article on CNET News described the capabilities of these “extraction devices”….

The devices, sold by a company called Cellebrite, can download text messages, photos, video, and even GPS data from most brands of cell phones. The handheld machines have various interfaces to work with different models and can even bypass security passwords and access some information.

#14 The government can spy on us and record our conversations seemingly without any limitation, but in many areas of the country it has become illegal to watch them or record them in public. For example, one 21-year-old man down in Florida was recently arrested for trying to document a confrontation that he was having with police on his iPhone. But if we can’t record them, how can we prove our side of the story in court?

America is becoming a much different place.

Our privacy is being eroded in thousands of different ways.

National governments and big corporations know far more about you than you probably ever would imagine.

Yes, there will always be “security threats”, but we should not have to throw away any of our rights in order to be “safe”.

America is supposed to be about liberty and freedom.

America is supposed to be the land of the free and the home of the brave.

If given the choice between living in “1984? and living in “1776?, I know what my choice would be.

I would choose 1776.

I would choose liberty and freedom even if it meant that the world around me was a little bit less “safe”.

What about you?

What would you choose?

Source: http://blog.survivalstation.org/every-breath-you-take-every-move-you-make-%E2%80%93-14-new-ways-that-the-government-is-watching-you-71089.html

Making Bio Diesel

2012-08-06T09:51:00.000-04:00

Hey everyone, thank you for all your support and sorry I have not been posting in a while. Just had a lot going on lately . But thank you for sticking with us and supporting us. Also please please click on some of our ads it helps get money ready for give aways, a new social website I want to design for preppers and so much more. Again we thank you for your support. And let us know how we did with this post all comments are welcome.

Biodiesel is a diesel fuel that is made by reacting vegetable oil (cooking oil) with other common chemicals. Biodiesel may be used in any diesel automotive engine in its pure form or blended with petroleum-based diesel. No modifications are required, and the result is a less-expensive, renewable, clean-burning fuel. Here's how to make biodiesel from fresh oil. You can also make biodiesel from waste cooking oil, but that is a little more involved, so let's start with the basics.

Materials for Making Biodiesel

1 liter of new vegetable oil (e.g, canola oil, corn oil, soybean oil)
3.5 grams (0.12 oz.)sodium hydroxide (also known as lye). Sodium hydroxide is used for some drain cleaners, such as Red Devil™ drain cleaner. The label should state that the product contains sodium hydroxide (not calcium hypochlorite, which is found in many other drain cleaners)
200 milliliters (6.8 fl. oz.) of methanol (methyl alcohol). Heet™ fuel treatment is methanol. Be sure the label says the product contains methanol (Isoheet™, for example, contains isopropyl alcohol and won't work).
blender with a low speed option. The pitcher for the blender is to be used only for making biodiesel. You want to use one made from glass, not plastic, since the methanol you will use can react with plastic.
digital scale [to accurately measure 3.5 grams (0.12 oz.)]
glass container marked for 200 milliliters (6.8 fl. oz.). If you don't have a beaker, measure the volume using a measuring cup, pour it into a glass jar, then mark the fill-line on the outside of the jar.
glass or plastic container that is marked for 1 liter (1.1 quart)
wide mouth glass or plastic container that will hold at least 1.5 liters (2-quart pitcher works well)
safety glasses, gloves, and probably an apron. You do not want to get sodium hydroxide or methanol on your skin, nor do you want to breathe the vapors from either chemical. Both chemicals are toxic. Please read the warning labels on the containers for these products! Methanol is readily absorbed through your skin, so do not get it on your hands. Sodium hydroxide is caustic and will give you a chemical burn. Prepare your biodiesel in a well-ventilated area. If you spill either chemical on your skin, rinse it off immediately with water.

Let's Make Biodiesel!

You want to prepare the biodiesel in a room-temperature (70° F) or warmer room since the chemical reaction will not proceed to completion if the temperature is too low.
If you haven't already, label all your containers as 'Toxic - Only Use for Making Biodiesel', since you don't want anyone drinking your supplies and you don't want to use the glassware for food again.
Pour 200 ml methanol (Heet) into the glass blender pitcher.
Turn the blender on its lowest setting and slowly add 3.5 g sodium hydroxide (lye). This reaction produces sodium methoxide, which must be used right away or else it loses its effectiveness. (Like sodium hydroxide, it can be stored away from air/moisture, but that might not be practical for a home setup.)
Mix the methanol and sodium hydroxide until the sodium hydroxide has completely dissolved (about 2 minutes), then add 1 liter of vegetable oil to this mixture.
Continue blending this mixture (on low speed) for 20-30 minutes.
Pour the mixture into a wide-mouth jar. You will see the liquid start to separate out into layers. The bottom layer will be glycerin. The top layer is the biodiesel.
Allow at least a couple of hours for the mixture to fully separate. You want to keep the top layer as your biodiesel fuel. If you like, you can keep the glycerin for other projects. You can either carefully pour off the biodiesel or use a pump or baster to pull the biodiesel off of the glycerin.

Using Biodiesel

Normally you can use pure biodiesel or a mixture of biodiesel and petroleum diesel as a fuel in any unmodified diesel engine. There are two situations in which you definitely should mix biodiesel with petroleum-based diesel.

If you are going to be running the engine at a temperature lower than 55° F (13° C), you should mix biodiesel with petroleum diesel. A 50:50 mixture will work for cold weather. Pure biodiesel will thicken and cloud at 55° F, which could clog your fuel line and stop your engine. Pure petroleum diesel, in contrast, has a cloud point of -10° F (-24° C). The colder your conditions, the higher percentage of petroleum diesel you will want to use. Above 55° F you can use pure biodiesel without any problem. Both types of diesel return to normal as soon as the temperature warms above their cloud point.
You will want to use a mixture of 20% biodiesel with 80% petroleum diesel (called B20) if your engine has natural rubber seals or hoses. Pure biodiesel can degrade natural rubber, though B20 tends not to cause problems. If you have an older engine (which is where natural rubber parts are found), you could replace the rubber with polymer parts and run pure biodiesel.

Biodiesel Stability & Shelf Life

You probably don't stop to think about it, but all fuels have a shelf life that depends on their chemical composition and storage conditions. The chemical stability of biodiesel depends on the oil from which it was derived. Biodiesel from oils that naturally contain the antioxidant tocopherol or vitamin E (e.g., rapeseed oil) remain usable longer than biodiesel from other types of vegetable oils. According to at least one source stability is noticeably diminished after 10 days and the fuel may be unusable after 2 months. Temperature also affects fuel stability in that excessive temperatures may denature the fuel.

Visual for making bio diesel

Video

Have food all year round

2012-07-25T11:15:00.001-04:00

As promised here is our indoor/year round garden tips. Also please please click on some ads it helps me keep this blog going and get some more writers and it helps me do some give away.

A year round vegetable garden: what a novel idea! Vegetable gardens have served people even before the ancient Greeks or Romans. In fact, vegetable gardening was popular long before more carnivorous endeavors ever were. Nonetheless, the answer's probably a little obvious, but homemade vegetable gardens have plenty of perks over the traditionally commercial kind.

For example, a veggie garden can either supplement yours and your family's regimen or fulfill it. It depends on a few factors: like the size of the plot you're able to produce plus maintain, the climate in your particular time zone, and the quality of the soil in your backyard (or, wherever you choose to put it). Additionally, year round warmer regions that usually produce moderate rain will yield a longer growing season than others.

There are only a few items you'll need to get started with a year round vegetable garden. In addition to sustainable Earth (good, "crumbly" dirt that's not too moist nor is it too dry), you'll need to make sure your veggie garden is placed somewhere that'll get the sun's maximum benefit-as a rule of thumb, about 5-6 hours a day, which is around the length of time when the sun is emitting the most energy). If this proves to be more difficult than not, that's when your creative genius has to kick in-as homes and their properties usually differ substantially.

Make sure that you've got these [usually] household items and supplies:

- Naturally, some seeds for a few different crops (not too many initially, though)
- A good, wholesome fertilizer
- A small shovel or even hand shovel (both will be beneficial unless it's a very small garden)
- A rake
- Steady supply of fresh water (the hose or a watering bucket will do fine)
- Markers for the individual types of seeds
- Poles if applicable (such as for pole beans)

A vegetable garden needs the right attention on a steady basis

Make sure not only to mark off your year round vegetable garden plot where it gets good sunlight and has sustainable soil, but also ensure there's reasonable protection against the elements as well as insects/general critters. There should be a good series of little canals to help drain water, also. Furthermore, make sure that your vegetable plants get watered around once or twice a week. When it comes to daily maintenance, seed manufacturers' packet labels are typically the best place to find info for specific plants. Any good seed packet will explain items such as: the best climate/season for the particular crop, how much water and food they require, and what time of the year is optimum to begin planting it.

Common crops and their preferred climates

Veggies like potatoes, eggplants, beans, and stalk corn usually thrive in the warmest climates-relatively speaking. So these are essentially a summer crop. Summer crops normally dictate a seasonal temp of 70 through about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If they come across frost these crops will die.

Crops that do well in cooler climates in a year round vegetable garden include: green beans, brussels sprouts, leeks, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli greens, onions, and turnips yields best and longest in slightly cooler climates. 50 to a maximum of 78 degrees is ideal for these, and they're a little more resilient to frost.

There is, of course, dozens of other varieties of crops. As you gain experience with your vegetable garden, you'll even discover that you can grow many different crops simultaneously.

Indoor Gardens

Indoor gardens can be wonderful, year-round areas to grow plants and flowers that may not survive winter where you live. Indoor gardens are limited primarily by the space you can dedicate to gardening. Smaller spaces will easily support smaller plants. Larger spaces can easily support potted trees and bushes. If you have a greenhouse or large glassed-in area, plants can be layered using taller pots for larger plants and smaller pots for smaller plants.

Step 1

Decide on a location for your indoor garden. Southern-facing areas are ideal, but any area that gets good light is a good starting location.

Step 2

Arrange your empty pots in the indoor gardening area to ensure good use of space. Be conscious of light requirements. Some plants don't like bright light. If they are shorter plants, you can put them under taller plants with more leaves. If you are planting primarily plants that like light, arrange them so taller plants don't shade shorter plants.

Step 3

Write the type of plant to be placed in each pot on the bottom of the pots to facilitate later planting. If you are using long pots for multiple plants, write the name of the plant in its position on the bottom to avoid getting plants in the wrong order.

Step 4

Take your pots to your potting area. Outdoor potting areas are better, but any easily cleaned area will work. Kitchens and bathrooms are good for potting.

Step 5

Mix about 4 parts potting soil to 1 part odorless compost or other organic fertilizer. For larger pots, the soil and compost can be mixed in the pot. For smaller pots, mix the soil and compost in a bucket and then transfer the soil to the pots.

Step 6

Place a plant and root ball in a pot and fill the bottom of the pot with enough of the potting soil and compost mixture to support the plant at the desired level in the pot. Place the soil and compost mixture around the sides of the root ball until the ball is covered and the pot is full.

Step 7

Tamp down the soil a bit with your fingers to simulate the settling that will occur with watering. You may need to add a bit of soil over time to compensate for soil settling.

Step 8

Repeat Steps 6 and 7 with each plant. Some people prefer to do the larger pots first and then move on to the smaller pots to avoid fatigue.

Step 9

Arrange the plants in your indoor garden area. Place your pots on saucers to catch draining water. Different plants need different amounts of water at different intervals. For smaller gardens with smaller pots, you can write the watering schedule with a waterproof marker on the bottom of the pot. For larger, more complex gardens or gardens with larger pots, make a map of the garden and number each pot. You can then make a watering schedule for each plant in your garden

Read more: How to Make an Indoor Garden | Garden Guides http://www.gardenguides.com/68342-make-indoor-garden.html#ixzz21eCd4Msb

Survival Folklore

2012-07-11T10:05:00.000-04:00

There is a lot of folklore about survival out there. Here are some of the things people often do that is wrong:

1 Folklore: If a bear attacks, play dead. Fact: That depends on the bear. Grizzly attacks during daytime are prompted by invasion of territory; the bear will usually stop once it realizes you don't pose a threat. Playing dead can save your life. In contrast, black bear attacks are a predatory response. Fight back to stay off the menu.

2 Folklore: In order to disinfect water so that it's safe to drink, boil for at least 10 minutes.

Fact: Bullpucky. In the time that it takes water to reach a rolling boil, any disease-causing organisms will die, regardless of altitude. Beyond that point, you're just wasting fuel.

3 Folklore: Baby rattlers are more dangerous than adults.

Fact: Grandma wasn't entirely crazy. As juveniles, most American venomous snakes have little control of their venom glands and always inject a full dose. Adults may inject a partial dose or, in some cases, none at all.

4 Folklore: If you're dying of thirst, drink your urine.

Fact: It's one thing to drink dilute (pale) urine, which is 95 percent water. But the more times you pass it through your system, the more toxic the effect on your kidneys. Still, at what point it does more harm than good is a gray area.

5 Folklore: In a desert, you can drink water from a cactus.

Fact: The pulp from prickly pear and various barrel cacti contains some nontoxic fluid, but its chemical content can induce diarrhea and vomiting, which hasten dehydration. You're better off seeking water in rock crevasses.

6 Folklore: Moss grows on the north side of a tree trunk.

Fact: In shaded forest or near water, mosses may grow on all sides of a tree. Aspens, which exude a powdery natural sunscreen that will whiten your palms, are a better indicator. The powder is heaviest on the trunk's south side.

7 Folklore: To treat frostbite, rub the frozen tissue with snow or immerse it in cold water.

Fact: Use body heat (but do not rub) or immerse in warm water. But only when you're certain there's no chance that the tissue will refreeze, increasing the risk of permanent damage.

8 Folklore: Always seek high ground to avoid hypothermia.

Fact: Creekbottoms and hollows are cold-air sinks, and if you can find shelter on an elevated bench, the air will be warmer. But if going high means exposure to wind, stay low. Windchill saps body heat more quickly than low air temperatures alone.

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Gun 101

2012-07-10T09:13:00.001-04:00

Cleaning A Hand Gun/Gun

How Often Should I Clean My Handguns?
Everyone in the shooting industry agrees that keeping guns clean is important. However, when people do disagree, it’s usually about how often cleaning is required. Some shooters treat their guns like professional racecars, paying strict attention to the state of their pistols before and after each shooting event. Others treat their handguns like the family sedan. Why would you wash it, wax it and change the oil each time you go for a drive? The whole point of buying reliable equipment is so you don't have to worry too much about maintenance, right?

For better or for worse, I follow a tiered gun cleaning schedule based on gun usage and purpose. Each gun gets a bath once a year, whether it needs it or not, to ensure it won't rust. Firearms that only come out once in a while get a lubrication check before shooting, and go back into long-term storage scrubbed and polished. Guns I shoot regularly, but casually, like my favorite .22s, get cleaned on an as-needed basis. I know they need it when the buildup of fouling starts to cause malfunctions, or when the lubrication is starting to wear thin.

Defensive handguns have a much stricter cleaning schedule. These are cleaned immediately after shooting, stored clean, carried clean and regularly checked for dirt build up and proper lubrication. Not everyone agrees with this approach, but my thought is this: Self-defense situations are driven and shaped by many factors outside of my control. Why would I willingly sacrifice one factor I can control, namely, keeping my handgun in the best state of maintenance possible?

Getting Started
The best place to start is your owner’s manual. If you don't have a manual, order one or review it online. Handguns almost always require some level of disassembly for cleaning. Be sure to understand the layout of your pistol and the tools and procedures for disassembly and reassembly. This will help you to avoid damaging the gun, launching springs across the room or losing those important little pieces that can fall out and get lost.

Cleaning & Lubricating Your Handguns:
The specifics of what a particular handgun needs for cleaning changes with each make and model. The following information touches on the general steps to follow:

1. Prepare Your Work Area Work in a well ventilated area that's been prepared for gun cleaning. The chemicals and compounds produced by shooting, as well as those used to clean and lubricate, are toxic and should be handled with care. A quick and easy way to prepare a workbench or table is to cover it with a large plastic trash bag. Cover the bag with a couple of layers of newspaper or a layer of paper towels, and swap out the padding as it becomes soiled. When you're done with the cleaning session, just turn the trash bag inside out to capture the debris, tie it shut and throw it away.

2. Engage Your Safeties
Ensure the gun is unloaded and pointed in a safe direction before you start cleaning and that all ammunition has been removed from the area. We've all heard stories of someone getting hurt while cleaning a gun. Along with safety considerations, solvents and lubricants can damage ammunition resulting in a failure to fire.

Mark Twain quipped, "If you hold a cat by the tail you learn things you cannot learn any other way." Getting a little splash of solvent in the eye is a similarly enlightening experience. As a bore brush moves out of the barrel, it flicks solvent and fouling into the air and toward your face. If it makes sense to cover your workspace, it’s logical to cover yourself as well. Wear safety glasses. A dust mask and protective gloves are also a good idea.

3. Field Strip the Handgun
It's rarely necessary to take a pistol completely apart for anything other than repairs. Field stripping is the process of partially disassembling a pistol for cleaning. For semi-autos, the pistol is broken down to its major components, such as the barrel, slide, guide rod, frame and magazine. Semi-autos have a wide variety of configurations, so be sure to read your manual and understand the field stripping process for your pistol. For single-action revolvers, the cylinder is removed from the frame. For double-action revolvers, simply swing the cylinder out into the open position. All three types of handguns may require you to remove the grip or grip panels as part of the cleaning process.

4. Clean the Bore of the Barrel:
The interior of the barrel is where most of the action takes place. As such, it's one of the most important areas to clean properly and the most labor intensive. The layer of material left in the barrel after shooting sessions can reduce the pistol's accuracy and corrode the barrel. To begin, attach a bore brush to the cleaning rod. Apply solvent to the brush and push it back and forth through the bore of the barrel several times. It's a good idea to clean and add solvent to the brush once or twice more as you work. Avoid dipping the bore brush directly into the solvent bottle, since this will foul the solvent. Instead, pour solvent onto the brush over a clean container, and then use the solvent in the container to treat patches and rags.

Once the bore of the barrel is thoroughly scrubbed, attach a patch with a patch holder or jag to the cleaning rod and run the patch through the barrel. The first patch will be quite dirty, and will need to be replaced. Run patches through the bore until they start to come out of the barrel looking relatively clean. Use a light to check the barrel bore. If you still see fouling stuck to the interior of the barrel, then run the brush and solvent again, followed by more patches.

Once you have removed all of the visible fouling with the bore brush, then run a patch or two treated with solvent through the barrel to remove any loose particles. Follow this with dry patches until they come out looking clean. Finally, run a clean patch treated with a little gun oil or lubricant through the bore. This thin layer of oil will protect the bore from moisture.

This process is only conducted once for semi-autos, since you only have the barrel to clean. Revolvers, on the other hand, have one long barrel and five or six chambers in the cylinder. Each chamber should be brushed and patched like the barrel.

5. Clean the Frame & Other Components:
Use your nylon brush, with some solvent, to scrub the other parts of the gun, and then use a rag to wipe off the solvent and residue. Be thorough in your inspection of the pistol. If something looks dirty, it is. Check the nooks and crannies for a buildup of fouling. For semi-autos, pay close attention to cleaning the slide's interior grooves, under the ejector and the contact points between the slide and the frame. For revolvers, keep an eye out for build up around the forcing cone, the face of the cylinder and the cylinder ratchet. For double-action revolvers, don't forget to check under the ejector star as well.

It's not necessary to get the gun dripping wet with solvent. A little goes a long way. How much cleaning attention is needed, and where it should be directed, depends on the gun and how much it has been shot. Just like your work with the patches, if you rub an area with a clean cloth or swab and it comes away smudged, more cleaning is required. Wipe the pistol clean of all solvents before lubricating.

6. Lubricate The Handgun:
The lubrication points differ from pistol to pistol. In general, semi-autos need lubricant where the various parts rub against each other as the action cycles. Revolvers need only a little lubrication. Single-actions need some on the cylinder pin and ratchet, while double-actions need some on the ejector rod and cylinder ratchet. The key is not to over lubricate. Too much will only serve to attract and hold gun fouling.

7. Finishing Up:
Now it’s time to reassemble the pistol. Once it’s all back together, cycle the action a few times to spread the lubricant evenly and to make sure everything is working correctly. If any lubricant oozes out of joints, wipe it off with a rag.

To preserve and protect the exterior finish of the gun, it needs a light coating of preservative. This is especially true of guns with a blued finish. Apply a little gun oil or metal preservative to a clean rag and wipe down the outer surfaces of the pistol. You can also purchase pre-treated cloths for this purpose. Think of it as giving your car a quick coat of wax before parking it in the garage. Place the pistol in its designated locking container, clean up the work area, and then wash up with soap and cool water.

Zero in A scope

Once you have those things prepared, these are the steps to follow:
1. Draw 2 dots on your cardboard or paper target. One dot towards the top and the other 6.5 inches directly below that one. Many gun stores also sell paper targets used for zeroing that already have measurements made on the paper.
2. Arrange the sandbags on the ground and flatten them out to make for a smooth firing surface. You can fire from the prone firing position, or place the bags on a higher rock or other sturdy object to support the rifle. It is important to have a stable surface to prevent moving around.
3. Place the target 25 meters from the point you will be firing from. You will be aiming at the top dot on the target. Fire 3 rounds at that dot. It is important that while firing you aim at the dot through all 3 shots and do not adjust your sight picture throughout the sequence of firing. You should not expect the rounds to hit the dot in the beginning. The object with the first 3 rounds is to keep them all together with a tight shot group. You should try to get them all within a 1 inch box. If you can not get them that tight you will not have an accurate starting point to adjust from.
4. Once you have gotten three rounds into a tight shot group you will know where to start. With the top dot being your target still, you want to adjust the sights to move the shot group closer to the dot. The adjustments are done by the knob on the top and right side of the scope. The top adjustment point is the elevation and changes the up and down measurement and the side point is the windage and changes the side to side. It should say which way to turn the knobs on them. The first adjustment you want to make is the windage, or left to right. Depending on how far off the first shot group is, you will make the desired amount of clicks to adjust.
5. After making the first few clicks you will fire another 3 shot group. Aiming at the same top dot, you will want the shot group to have moved closer in line with the 2 dots. If the group is not directly below the dots, make the needed adjustments and fire another 3 shot group until the grouping is closer in line. This may take a few times, so just be patient and do not rush it.
6. Once you have gotten the windage adjustments correctly in line you can focus on the elevation. The procedure is basically the same. Make the adjustments in the proper direction and then fire a 3 shot group to see if the adjustments are correct.
Once you have the scope zeroed at the 25 yard target you can extend the range out to 100 yards. The adjustments should only be very minor if any. The range from which you are planning to fire your rifle the majority of the time will be the best range at which to zero your sight.

Is there anything I forgot or a specific gun anyone would like for me to talk about?

Potato Tower

2012-07-06T09:49:00.000-04:00

So while sitting at home one day enjoy some mashed potatoes it hit me. I do not have any potatoes in my garden this year. I usually devote a space to them because they are a good stable crop to have. And grow very easily. I had pretty much used up all my space to tomatoes, strawberries, blueberries, egg plants and a lot of other fruits and vegetables. So I then decided to see if I could grow them in a bucket. I googled different ways to grow potatoes.

And the answer I came across is the potato tower. Here's how it works: The plant grows and its stem lengthens, as do the underground stolons from which the tubers grow. Give the stem more height to grow and it will, increasing the space for stolons and thus tubers.

First, dig a nice, deep hole about three feet by three feet. Add some compost and turn the soil until loose. Add peat, blood meal and bone meal. Heap the soil high in the middle and then make it as level as possible as far out to the edge of the mound as you can make it. My hole was about two feet deep with the mound coming out of it about a foot and a half.

Second, the seed potatoes should be purchased from a grower not the grocery. Or you can use seed potatoes from your own stock. I went with some Eastern gold seed potatoes. Cut the seed potatoes into squares around the eyes of the potatoes. Make sure that you cut back about two inches from the eye to ensure some strong growth once planted.

Third, make some depressions in your soil and add your seed potatoes. Make sure to cover the seed potatoes entirely with soil. Three inches or so should do it. Fourth, get some long furring strips (1 x 2). Six feet should do it. Sharpen the ends and drive these into the earth surrounding your potato mound. Place them fairly square or at least at equal intervals from each other. This is important because depending on what medium you use to enclose the potato tower it will need equal support once it gets up high.

Fifth, if you went with a circle design you should have six long lengths of furring strip sticking out of the ground. If you went with the square you should have about four. Depending on what you use to enclose the tower the support structure will have to change.

Sixth, I am using heavy gauge cardboard from Costco. I am using it because it is plentiful in my home, good for the soil and free! To support this simply use twine to go around your stakes in the ground connecting them all fairly tightly together. Make a nice few runs around the tower. I used a dozen circuits and spaced them three inches from each other. Cut and tuck the cardboard in a weaving pattern through the twine. You should have a rough looking cardboard tower once done.

Seventh, once you have watered the seed potatoes you should have some sprouts in a couple of weeks. Let these sprouts grow to a height of eight inches. Once they have reached the desired height cover them with straw. Lightly go around and weave the straw in at first then barely cover the plants with it. Be careful not to hurt the plants. You should still see the green of the sprouts and they should not be weighed down.

Eighth, Wait a week and the sprouts should be up another eight inches or so. Add more straw and tuck more cardboard into the twine raising the tower up in height. Repeat these steps until you have a tower about four or five feet in height. Water the straw lightly everyday. It should not be dry but not soaking either. Around late summer you should be able to reach in and pull out some fresh, unseasoned potatoes depending on growing season.

Here is a method that uses chicken wire and newspaper. But the concept is the same. Also is you like our blog please click on some ads for us it helps us out a lot. Also listen to our shows we talk about a lot of stuff live. And we will have another one soon. And don't forget to like us on facebook and follow us on twitter.

True Horse Power

2012-07-01T14:36:00.001-04:00

The first rule of horses for the person who has done much with them – learn from a professional. Horses are NOT a subject you can pick up a book and learn about without some hands-on help from someone who knows equines. I’ve taught riding for a number of years (don’t any longer) and have owned and even bred horses, and I don’t necessarily have all the knowledge I’d need in a SHTF situation. If you’ve never interacted with horses before, you won’t pick the knowledge up easily and safely post-SHTF without a great deal of luck. And don’t assume that just because a person has had horses for years that they can teach you well. Teaching is a skill that not everyone has, and the ability to break down skills you just “know” into easily taught and communicated lessons is hard to acquire!

The second most important point of horsemanship … horses are herd animals. And they are prey animals. This makes them fundamentally different than most common pets, such as cats or dogs. Although dogs are pack animals, they are predators, and behave radically different than horses do. (And the less said about cat behavior/training, the better.) Horses do have a herd hierarchy, and it is important, but they aren’t nearly as “alpha” oriented as dogs. Dogs take humans as their alpha and are prone to fawning on us. No horse behaves like that; there is no fawning in the herd. There usually is a herd mare, and in the wild, a herd stallion, but unlike wolves, the roles are very different for horses. Humans don’t really “fit” into the herd structure nearly as well as they do into a dog’s pack mentality.

Along with that, it’s also important to remember that horses ARE prey. They can and will be scared of people, even though we’re much smaller than they are. Remember, they are preyed on in the wild by things that don’t mass much more than we do. So sudden movements, loud noises, or the like by humans can trigger a horse’s “flight or fight” response. This can lead to dangerous situations, especially if the person triggering the response has penned a horse into a spot where they can’t flee and feel they must “fight”.

Horses, even though they are prey animals, will fight at need. Usually, this is between animals in the herd, but they will also fight back at humans if pressed hard enough. Stallions, and by extension geldings, will usually rear up, bite, and strike out with the front feet. Mares, however, usually kick out with their back feet. Keeping these differences in mind can help a bunch when dealing with horses. The easiest thing to remember is to watch those back feet on mares!

No beginner should handle a stallion without supervision. Period. This does not mean stallions are mean or vicious, just that they have special considerations and they are definitely not for the beginner. All that testosterone really does make them somewhat different!

Because horses are herd animals, they feel safest in a group. Trying to take one horse away from its herd can be difficult and dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. Likewise, getting into the middle of a herd of loose horses can be dangerous if you are a beginner – you can’t read the body language and tell when things might happen that you’d be caught in the middle of. Getting between two mares who are ticked off at each other is not a good place to be!

Now that I’ve scared everyone out of their minds, let me point out the many good points of horses in a SHTF situation. They are an important source of power in a grid down situation, not to mention transportation. It is a good idea to acquire at least the modicum of horse knowledge if you can, just so you can be ahead of the game. Most well trained horses will deal with an owner of “intermediate knowledge” reasonably well, and it doesn’t take long to acquire the basic knowledge needed to ride, control, and take care of a well-behaved horse. This level of knowledge isn’t enough to train horses or breed them, but it would be good knowledge to know prior to any sort of long term SHTF situation. Luckily, most areas have someone who is teaching riding lessons, and any competent and ethical teacher will insist on teaching horse care and handling as well as riding. If your prospective teacher doesn’t want you to learn how to saddle, handle, or take care of a horse, then they are not worth paying for the lessons.

Personally, I’d consider that everyone should be comfortable with controlling a horse both on the ground and on horseback. You should be able to pick a horse’s hooves clean, saddle, bridle, groom, catch, release, and move horses on the ground. You should be comfortable with riding a horse at all three gaits (speeds, for non-horse-people – they are walk, trot, canter/lope in increasing speed. Gallop is just a fast canter) both alone and in a group. (It’s significantly more difficult to ride a horse alone or away from a group due to their herd nature). You should have the basic ideas of what to feed a horse, and what NOT to feed a horse, as well as when it’s safe to water them. Basic health care is a plus, as well as a basic idea of how to trim feet. Shoeing is something that is better left to the professionals.

Saddle basics Western

English

Horses will be very important again if SHTF. They will be the new cars and transportation by horse will be the only way to get around. Also always remember to learn important skills before SHTF don't wait until you see a horse and try to ride for the first time with no practice or prior knowledge.

Also again thank you everyone for all your support. Please Please click on some ads for us it really helps us out. We have a goal to reach by the end of July of $300 to do a give away and to get a nice website up and running. Again we thank you everyone for all their support and help. And please click on an ad for us? Thank you!

Some more horse basics
Cleaning and Protecting the leather

It is very important to care for your leather items from the first day you buy them. The most important reason to keep good care of your leather items is safety. If you do not care for your leather equipment well enough, it may crack or peel, or fall apart at the seams while you are riding or using it.

Another good reason to clean your equipment often is, in the event of an accidental drenching, or accidental mold-growing,how well you cared for your tack in the past will determine how well it will bounce back.

Leather that isn't taken care of will lose it's natural oils. It may even crack and peel with use, or as it dries after cleaning or revival. In addition, the stitching is likely to rot, resulting in equipment that falls apart while you're using it.

Cleaning & Protecting your Leather:

Each time you use your leather equipment, wipe it down with a soft cloth when you are done. This will remove any dirt or dust accumulated during it's use, which will decrease the possibility of mold growth and rotting.

Once per week or so, do a thorough cleaning of all your leather items. Start by applying saddle soap. Use a sponge to rub the saddle soap into the leather well. Then, use a damp wash cloth to wipe off the excess saddle soap from the leather. Use another sponge or wash cloth to immediately rub into the leather a good quality leather oil to help preserve the leather's natural oils.

Always store your leather items in a dry, non-humid area to prevent mold and mildew growth. When possible, use a saddle cover or bridle bag to keep your clean leather items in, so that dust and dirt cannot settle on them and grow mold. If you do not have a saddle cover or bridle bag, or cannot afford them, you can make them yourself fairly easily. Use an old sheet or pillowcase for a bridle bag. Just place the pillowcase over your bridles/halters the same way you would with a pillow. Then, hang it on your bridle rack. To cover your saddle drape a clean sheet, pillowcase, or saddle pad over your saddle when it is not in use.

Reviving Soaked or Moldy Leather:

So, what do you do in the event of an accidental drenching or mold growing? The very first thing, is to bring the leather indoors and into an area that is dry and non-humid. Then, use a damp cloth to wipe away any mold or excess water from the leather. When wiping away mold, be sure to rinse the cloth often so you do not spread any bacteria from one area of the leather to another.

Then, use an extra amount of saddle soap while you scrub the leather with a sponge. There should be enough saddle soap that it gets all sudsed-up or "frothy". Rub the saddle soap into the leather very well. Then, use a clean, damp cloth to remove excess saddle soap from the leather. Finally, apply a good coat of quality leather oil to preserve the natural oils in the leather.

If you have taken very good care of your leather equipment, it should bounce back from an accidental drenching or mold growing nicely. However, if you have neglected to take proper care of your leather equipment, it may not bounce back so easily. Extra care will need to be in place.
http://www.equusite.com/articles/basics/basicsLeather.shtml

Defending your house when SHTF.

2012-06-27T09:42:00.001-04:00

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When SHTF there will be a lot of turmoil and chaos. People will be robbing people, murders and repast will probably be on the loose. While watching old episodes of it takes a thief (old discovery channel show) the things they did to the house to make sure a thief could not get in got me thinking. When shit hits the fan we will all need to do this for our house. Maybe even before. It is probably a good idea to start all of this before the world goes into chaos. So here are some suggestions for SHTF proofing your house:

Find a safe place to live. Avoid houses with large windows and sliding glass doors. Glass doors may as well be open doors. They’re just too easy to get through. Also remember that second and third-floor apartments are much less likely to be broken into as criminals want to be able to make a quick getaway in case there’s trouble.

Reinforce your doors. I already wrote about this in my post, First Line of Defense: The Front Door. Most criminals don’t even know how to pick locks; they just kick in the door. But if you have a sturdy door that can’t be kicked in very easily, they’re likely to just move on to the next house. And don’t forget the back door and the garage door.

Get motion detector lights. Especially the kind that run on batteries, as there could be rolling blackouts. Criminals don’t like to be seen, and if a bright light hits them they’ll probably flee.

Get an alarm. A loud one. And again, make sure it will work if the power is out. If you don’t have a lot of money, at least get doorknob alarms. You can get a touch knob alarm on amazon.com for only $10.

Reinforce your windows. Like I said before, windows are just too easy to break through. I recommend putting bars over all your windows. If there are bars on the windows, 9 out of 10 times criminals will move on to a house without them.

Put up a security fence. It needs to go all the way around your property and be at least seven feet high. Criminals might still find a way past it, but the point of most of these measures is deterrence.

Get a decoy safe. Your main safe should be very well hidden, while the decoy safe should be fairly easy to find and filled with some cash, cheap jewelry and documents that look important.

Think like a criminal. If a criminal looked at your house, would they see toys, tools or other things in the yard? Are there lots of trees and bushes to hide behind? Would they see expensive items through the windows? Don’t leave things outside, get rid of those bushes and get some heavy-duty curtains. When you’re done, look at your house and compare it to your neighbors’ houses. Does it look more secure than theirs? If not, your house could be targeted first

Good use for some plants

2012-06-25T11:44:00.000-04:00

A Nutritional Powerhouse Just Waiting for Appreciation

One of the best all around “weeds” you can eat is the delicate, but prolific chickweed. This annual is very quick to announce the arrival of spring with quick growth and tiny white blooms. It is mat-like in its growth habit and it gets 6-8 inches high by about 16 inches around. It is an airy-looking plant with long, thin wisp-like stems and small leaves. There is a fine line of “hairs” along the stem that may switch sides as they reach leaf pairs.

Right now in our area the plant is a medium green color and at this point is almost beginning to yellow a bit as temps in the 80′s have been frequent lately. It seems to enjoy partial shade. The leaves are small ovals with pointed ends. The edges of the leaves are smooth rather than toothed. They appear in pairs on opposites sides of the stem. New leaves will have no leaf stems visible, though older, larger ones may.

Chickweed often has a huge growth spurt in early spring and then dies back some for the hottest months. It frequently has another good run when temps begin to drop off in the fall. Some form of this plant grows nearly everywhere and can be found (if you know what to look for) at almost all times of the year.

When chickweed’s stem is broken, there is NO milky sap- this characteristic helps to differentiate it from other similar plants. Also, there is a slightly stretchy center core inside the stem when you begin to pick it. It is possible to crease the stem with your nail enough to separate the outside tube while leaving the core intact. That core will usually withstand a slight amount of pulling before breaking.

The flowers are only 1/8 – 1/4 inch wide and often open only while the sun shines on them. At night, the leaves fold over the flowers and tender buds. Technically, they have 5 petals, but they are so deeply notched that they look more like 10 or even like “fringe.” Another noteworthy characteristic is that forming buds are often downward-facing, especially on the Star Chickweed that is most common here. The buds are also oval shaped and “hairy.”

Chickweed gets is name from the fact that chickens are said to love it. I’ve never seen our “free range” birds eat it, but it may be they just eat from patches I don’t know about. The one area I know about that is completely covered with this plant is not part of their usual rounds.

Uses for Chickweed

One of our favorite “wild food” meals is Chickweed, Violet, & Dandelion Salad. All three “weeds” are at their peak at about the same time and we have more than we could ever eat. Chickweed is one of few plants that have leaves, flowers, and stems that all taste good- no need to strip the stems off. They’re so delicate that you can grab handfuls and use all the aerial parts, though new growth is always most tender.

Chickweed can be eaten raw (as in a salad). It has a taste reminiscent of corn silk. It is also good lightly cooked like spinach, which it will taste like also. Much like spinach, it will shrink quite a bit in cooking. If adding to soups for extra nutrition, do so shortly before serving to avoid overcooking.

Chickweed is one of the most nutrient-dense wild edibles you can find. It is full of vitamins A, B complex, C, and D, as well as a flavonoid called rutin. It also contains the minerals calcium, copper, iron, manganese, phosphorus, silica, sodium, and zinc.

Chickweed is credited with many healing properties in addition to nutritional ones. For many years, it has been used as a warm poultice for all kinds of skin irritations, itching, swelling, diaper rash, and infections. The water chickweed is cooked in is used for washing wounds also. It is considered useful whether fresh, dried, powdered, or mixed as a salve.

Many think if it is eaten is will help with cold symptoms, indigestion, rheumatoid arthritis, and “blood poisoning.” A strong tea is made for constipation to be drunk repeatedly until the problem is resolved. It is used for post-partum recovery and other “female complaints,” kidney problems, as well as a circulatory “tonic.” It has shown promise recently as an antihistamine.

Those allergic to daisies may want to avoid chickweed to prevent contact dermatitis. As always, pregnant or nursing women and children should use caution and consider not taking it internally.

Here is a video that “Green Deane” made to help you learn to identify and use this marvelous plant. If you ever get a chance to attend one of his walking identification tours, I highly recommend them!

Protect yourself from a nuclear disaster

2012-06-22T09:20:00.003-04:00

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While surfing the internet and reading the news I kept coming across nuclear this and that this country has nuclear bombs ect. And I got to thinking well if someone with a nuclear bomb decided to set it off how on earth would I survive if I am not in a bunker. I mean I am not going to duck and cover and my desk like an earthquake drill ( those whom are old enough will know what I mean by this for everyone else Google duck and cover drill for nuclear bomb during cold war). Then I it also hit me, what if a nuclear reactor all the sudden were to go off near where I live? While having a bunker will be helpful that are some things that can be done even if you do not have a bunker.

While the most important thing I recommend is being aware of what is happening around your area and if the threat of nuclear war or nuclear reactor going off is real to get out of there. That is probably one of the best things to do. Do not stick around by any means, pack all your valuable items and get your butt to safety ASAP.

Steps to Take to Safeguard Yourself Before the Emergency

Consider storing and doing the following:

1. Potassium Iodate

If you want to prepare for the possibility of radiation, I would begin by buying someKIO3 tablets. It acts to “fill” your thyroid with safe iodine so that it will not absorb radioactive iodine in fallout. One of the major problems radiation victims suffer long-term is thyroid cancer. KIO3 a preventative. You have to take it before radiation reaches you or as soon as possible. It does not rid your thyroid of radioactive iodine after the fact. In other words, by the time you know you need it, it’s too late to order. Many in Japan sadly found that out.

Iodine-131 actually “decomposes” relatively quickly (within weeks or months). The danger from this particular radioactive particle is shorter lived than others.

2. Vitamin D and Vitamin K

These help rid your body of irregular cells- in other words, cells that may be affected by radiation and therefore replicating or acting improperly may be killed off better (appropriate apoptosis) in the presence of these two vitamins. Vitamin D also helps the body with DNA repair.

3. Potassium and Iron

These minerals may help in combating some of the radioactive particles that stick around longer. Cesium-137 has a “half-life” of 30 years. This is still commonly found in the ground around the old Chernobyl reactor in the Ukraine. It is easily taken up by the body because it mixes well into liquids. It is also carried easily by the wind.

4. Other Antioxidants and Herbal Supplements

There isn’t a “magic bullet” for countering radiation, but some things are known to be helpful in protecting the body from the effects of radiation. Some of these includeturmeric, gingko biloba, garlic, ginger,ginseng, melatonin, magnesium, and spirulina.

5. Choose a centrally located room in your home. It should be the one with the fewest windows, preferably a basement or storm shelter. Store supplies you may need there (the usual- food, water, medicine, clothes, flashlights…). Consider what you will do for pets or livestock.

6. Make sure all your loved ones know that this is where the family will gather in case of radiation.

What to Do at the Beginning of the Emergency
What to Do Afterward

1. Remove all articles of clothing before entering your sheltered area if you have had any contamination risk. Doing so could remove up to 90% of the radiation and you do not want to bring it inside.

2. Wash as thoroughly as you can to get rid of what is on the surface of your body.

3. Close off all vents and stop drafts that may bring contaminated air into your shelter. If possible, seal off doors and windows with plastic sheeting and tape for the period of time that a radiation plume may be passing over. You can only stay sealed up without fresh air for a few hours though.

4. Keep your emergency radio on to find out updates. Hopefully, you will be able to track the direction of the radiation, find out about medical help, etc.

In the days after radiation has been released, there are a few other things you may want to do to help protect yourself. Of course, stay inside as much as possible until you are sure it is relatively “safe” to venture out.

1. Eat whole grains and the foods high in the above mentioned nutrients. High fiber foods with phosphorus spend less time in the digestive tract and therefore help the body in eliminating all wastes. Also, being a plant and therefore low on the food chain, any toxins the whole grains may have been exposed to will be less concentrated than those found higher on the food chain.

2. Avoid some foods- highly processed, very fatty, and sugary things contain less nutrition anyway and are held in the GI tract longer.

3. See a doctor as soon as possible if you suspect radiation exposure. He may prescribe Prussian Blue, DTPA, or Neupona.

In the final piece in this series, I will outline the symptoms radiation sickness, technically called Acute Radiation Syndrome.

What will you do in case a nuclear disaster happens? Are you ready for the worst possible thing to happen? Does your state have any nuclear reactors in it? Do you have proper items to survive the nuclear radiation?

Just because it is moving doesn't mean it is safe

2012-06-20T14:20:00.000-04:00

One day me and my dad went on a hiking and fishing trip in the woods. It was remote area in the Georgia mountains. We probably hiked for at least an hour or so before arriving at the spot where we wanted to fish along the river. As we were getting ready to go trout fishing I was getting rather thirsty. So I had decided to try and drink some of the water from the river since it was moving water I thought it would be safe to drink. I put my stuff down and proceed to walk to the river's edge to get in to get a drink of the nice cool refreshing water.

That is when my dad saw what I was about to do and yelled at me to stop. I just gave him a puzzled look and said "It is safe dad, it is moving water." And that is when he told me that even moving water can contain bacteria that can make me sick. It is safe to say from that day forward I never did try to drink water out of a river even if it was moving.

Waterborne Illnesses

Fresh, clear, and fast-moving water is a multi-sensory experience for the weary backpacker. The sound of water rushing over softball-sized rocks, the moist smell of cool air hovering above the stream, and the feel of water running trickling down your back as you squeeze it out of a soaked handkerchief brings a much needed infusion of energy and stamina back to your body.

But, for all of it’s benefits, you must be careful consuming it. Yes, even in the most remote areas of the country, waterborne illnesses can thrive and dangerously derail your time in the woods.

Giardia and Cryptosporidium are two of the more common protozoan parasites that cause significant gastrointestinal illnesses that can be fatal. There are others as well.

What I did not think of back then was that many of these enter the water supply through fecal matter of people or animals. Others can enter through decaying animals that are in contact with the water source. Waterborne illnesses can be contracted by drinking contaminated water.

What’s Up Stream?

Many people mistakenly believe that fast-moving water is safe to drink, that bacteria and protozoa cannot exist in areas where the current is swift.

Many people assume that fast moving water is safe water. The answer is yes and no. While if I had to choose between water that is not moving and moving water, I would easily choose the moving water over the puddle or lake that barley moves. Yet your are not completely in the safe, bacteria and parasites still can live in this water. A few thousand years ago our bodies could handle these parasites and bacteria better. Now however our immune system has lost the ability to fight off some of these bacteria and or parasites.

What’s upstream from your vantage point?

Just beyond the bend maybe a wide watering hole used by all sorts of wild or domesticated animals that have no qualms about pooping in the same water that they drink. Or perhaps there is a half-rotted, diseased and decaying former member of the herd laying half in the watering hole.

Neither of these bode well for you.

It’s Best to Purify

In a pinch, facing dehydration, I’d drink the unpurified water. I’d try to get as close to the source of the water as possible, following it upstream to where it bubbles out of the ground or emerges from a rocks. I’d shy away from areas where there are lots of animal tracks and slow, stagnant-looking water. Cold water is also less likely to be infected with problematic parasites.

But it’s best to purify the water. Boiling or killing the parasites with iodine tablets or ultraviolet light works well. Filtering with a high-quality filter is another way to prevent intestinal discomfort.

Fast-moving water certainly decreases your chances of becoming infected with a waterborne pathogen, but it’s not a sure thing. When it doubt, purify.

Being Self Sufficient

2012-06-18T11:39:00.001-04:00

About Self Sufficiency

Being self sufficient means being personally and independently sustainable for all of life's basic needs: food, shelter, and clothing. Self sufficient individuals do not need to be dependent on outside resources for their basic needs and they are capable of attending to a wide variety of necessary tasks on their own. This can lower an individual's impact on natural resources and in turn improve the conditions of their local environment.

All of humankind at one point was individually self sufficient. Eventually, individuals grouped together into cooperative communities, and specialization of skills and resources began to develop. Today's society is incredibly specialized and many people depend on the welfare and productivity of thousands of different sources to uphold their quality of life. By regaining some measure of self sufficiency, individuals can take better control of how they use their resources.

:Why Be Self Sufficient?

Emergency Preparedness: Individuals who can grow their own food, attend to minor repairs, and have a self sufficient lifestyle will be less impacted in case of local or regional emergencies that may limit resources.
Skill Development: Becoming self sufficient requires the development of many useful skills and sharpens mental processes. This is also a great way to teach children to be independent and to offer them practical skills they can use throughout their lives.
Economic Advantages: A self sufficient home can produce the bulk of its energy, food supplies, and other necessities far less expensively than purchasing materials and resources while paying for the labor of others.
Personal Satisfaction: Developing low impact living through self sufficiency can bring about a deep sense of personal accomplishment and satisfaction, creating a positive, healthy attitude.

Easy Self Sufficient Living Tips

There are hundreds of small steps anyone can take to become more self sufficient. More popular, easy to do self sufficient living tips include:

Growing a garden and eating more produce you have personally harvested.
Planting fruit trees for a personal orchard.
Building a compost bin to recycle household waste to use as mulch and fertilizer for the garden, flowerbeds, and lawn.
Recycling leaves and grass clippings as mulch or part of compost.
Saving seeds from the previous year's harvest to grow next year's garden.
Building a rain barrel to collect rainwater for lawn and garden irrigation.

These are just a few ideas that are easy to implement in most homes and can help individuals develop their own self sufficient living style.Installing solar panels with batteries to provide abundant household energy.
Adding skylights and large, energy efficient windows to take advantage of natural light.
Choosing a solar water heater or solar oven to replace inefficient appliances.
Learning basic appliance, car, and home repairs and maintenance to save time and money to keep items in good repair for a longer time period.
Using a clothesline instead of a gas or electric dryer.
Recycling paper products for reuse at home as scrap paper, homemade paper, packaging materials, pet bedding, and more.
Choosing reusable grocery bags instead of disposable ones, and reusing store bags as trash bags.
Growing indoor herbs for fresh recipe seasoning.
Opting for reusable cloth diapers that can be handed down to multiple children.
Learning to repair and sew new clothing and linens.
Learning basic culinary preservation skills such as canning or making fruit preserves to support a larger harvest.
Choosing to walk or bike to work or on errands instead of using a motorized vehicle.
Choosing a low flow toilet or composting toilet to conserve water.
Choose energy efficient light bulbs and appliances to minimize the need for electricity.
Using a manual push lawn mower instead of electric or gas powered models.
Buying products locally to minimize the resources necessary to bring them to market and to support others interested in self sufficiency.
Starting your own business to become economically self sufficient instead of relying on an employer.
Developing natural beauty without depending on cosmetics, hair dye, and other products.
Choosing self sufficient recreation such as camping, hiking, or other low impact activities that do not require extensive travel or elaborate assistance to enjoy.

Live off the grid

Military Survival

2012-06-15T12:07:00.001-04:00

Ever wonder how military men and women survive and how they do what it is they do? Well luckily I have a buddy in the Army he learned a lot of things that can help you survive. Here is a list of things military men and women do to survive. Also thank you to all the brave men and women defending our freedoms today. If it wasn't for you and your families I would not be able to sit here and write this blog post today. So thank you.

1. They always carry basic first aid kit and know exactly how to use it.

Just like these military men, we should also be equipped in case disaster strikes unexpectedly. And keeping a first aid kit can definitely save a life. But for the kit to be useful, it should contain all the necessary medication (e.g. antiseptics, antibiotics) and bandages.

Generally, military men are sent for missions in far-off and remote places for an indefinite period of time. And during such times, they get injured. But with their knowledge on first aid application, they can treat themselves with only the kit they have.

2. They possess certain levels of self-defense skills.

Self-defense techniques include martial arts (judo, karate, taekwondo) and knowledge on how to use any item as a weapon for defense. These are the skills that military men are equipped with. Additionally, they are also accomplished marksmen. But the good thing about it all is that, they only use their knowledgeon self-defense when there is a threat on their lives.

3. They S.T.O.P.

Basically, STOP means “Stop Think Observe Plan.” And it is a very important skill taught to the military forces. This is what helps them remain calm during adverse situations. But what STOP really means? Here’s a brief explanation:

Stop means to take a break, to relax, to calm down, so you can recognize what exactly is going on around you. Think connotes the presence of mind no matter what happens. To observe is to analyze the pros and cons of any situation very carefully and meticulously. Plan is, of course, about planning your next move on how to get the upper hand when in an unfavorable or hostile condition.

4. They are extremely good at improvisation.

To survive, one must know how to improvise. And on that note, we should emulate the military forces. One must realize that the situation per se is not the important thing. What matters most is one’s ingenuity and willpower to improve the situation in order to save lives.

5. Building temporary but safe shelter is their expertise.

Since military forces spend most of their lives in the wilderness, building a shelter is one of their most basic concerns for survival. They can erect a tent or dig out a bunker at its most advantageous direction. They are also good at camouflaging their shelter for added security.

A new but old planting method

2012-06-13T14:13:00.000-04:00

According to Iroquois legend, corn, beans, and squash are three inseparable sisters who only grow and thrive together. This tradition of interplanting corn, beans and squash in the same mounds, widespread among Native American farming societies, is a sophisticated, sustainable system that provided long-term soil fertility and a healthy diet to generations. Growing a Three Sisters garden is a wonderful way to feel more connected to the history of this land, regardless of our ancestry.

Corn, beans and squash were among the first important crops domesticated by ancient Mesoamerican societies. Corn was the primary crop, providing more calories or energy per acre than any other. According to Three Sisters legends corn must grow in community with other crops rather than on its own - it needs the beneficial company and aide of its companions.

The Iroquois believe corn, beans and squash are precious gifts from the Great Spirit, each watched over by one of three sisters spirits, called the De-o-ha-ko, or Our Sustainers". The planting season is marked by ceremonies to honor them, and a festival commemorates the first harvest of green corn on the cob. By retelling the stories and performing annual rituals, Native Americans passed down the knowledge of growing, using and preserving the Three Sisters through generations.

Corn provides a natural pole for bean vines to climb. Beans fix nitrogen on their roots, improving the overall fertility of the plot by providing nitrogen to the following years corn. Bean vines also help stabilize the corn plants, making them less vulnerable to blowing over in the wind. Shallow-rooted squash vines become a living mulch, shading emerging weeds and preventing soil moisture from evaporating, thereby improving the overall crops chances of survival in dry years. Spiny squash plants also help discourage predators from approaching the corn and beans. The large amount of crop residue from this planting combination can be incorporated back into the soil at the end of the season, to build up the organic matter and improve its structure.

Corn, beans and squash also complement each other nutritionally. Corn provides carbohydrates, the dried beans are rich in protein, balancing the lack of necessary amino acids found in corn. Finally, squash yields both vitamins from the fruit and healthful, delicious oil from the seeds.

Native Americans kept this system in practice for centuries without the modern conceptual vocabulary we use today, i.e. soil nitrogen, vitamins, etc. They often look for signs in their environment that indicate the right soil temperature and weather for planting corn, i.e. when the Canada geese return or the dogwood leaves reach the size of a squirrels ear. You may wish to record such signs as you observe in your garden and neighborhood so that, depending on how well you judged the timing, you can watch for them again next season!

Early European settlers would certainly never have survived without the gift of the Three Sisters from the Native Americans, the story behind our Thanksgiving celebration. Celebrating the importance of these gifts, not only to the Pilgrims but also to civilizations around the globe that readily adopted these New World crops, adds meaning to modern garden practices

Success with a Three Sisters garden involves careful attention to timing, seed spacing, and varieties. In many areas, if you simply plant all three in the same hole at the same time, the result will be a snarl of vines in which the corn gets overwhelmed!

Instructions for Planting Your Own Three Sisters Garden in a 10 x 10 square

When to plant:Sow seeds any time after spring night temperatures are in the 50 degree range, up through June.

What to plant:
Corn must be planted in several rows rather than one long row to ensure adequate pollination. Choose pole beans or runner beans and a squash or pumpkin variety with trailing vines, rather than a compact bush. At Renee's Garden, we have created our Three Sisters Garden Bonus Pack, which contains three inner packets of multi-colored Indian Corn, Rattlesnake Beans to twine up the corn stalks and Sugar Pie Pumpkins to cover the ground.

Note: A 10 x 10 foot square of space for your Three Sisters garden is the minimum area needed to ensure good corn pollination. If you have a small garden, you can plant fewer mounds, but be aware that you may not get good full corn ears as a result.

How to plant:
Please refer to the diagrams below and to individual seed packets for additional growing information.

1. Choose a site in full sun (minimum 6-8 hours/day of direct sunlight throughout the growing season). Amend the soil with plenty of compost or aged manure, since corn is a heavy feeder and the nitrogen from your beans will not be available to the corn during the first year. With string, mark off three ten-foot rows, five feet apart.

2. In each row, make your corn/bean mounds. The center of each mound should be 5 feet apart from the center of the next. Each mound should be 18 across with flattened tops. The mounds should be staggered in adjacent rows. See Diagram #1

Note: The Iroquois and others planted the three sisters in raised mounds about 4 inches high, in order to improve drainage and soil warmth; to help conserve water, you can make a small crater at the top of your mounds so the water doesn’t drain off the plants quickly. Raised mounds were not built in dry, sandy areas where soil moisture conservation was a priority, for example in parts of the southwest. There, the three sisters were planted in beds with soil raised around the edges, so that water would collect in the beds (See reference 2 below for more information). In other words, adjust the design of your bed according to your climate and soil type.

3. Plant 4 corn seeds in each mound in a 6 in square. See Diagram #2

4. When the corn is 4 inches tall, its time to plant the beans and squash. First, weed the entire patch. Then plant 4 bean seeds in each corn mound. They should be 3 in apart from the corn plants, completing the square as shown in Diagram #3.

5. Build your squash mounds in each row between each corn/bean mound. Make them the same size as the corn/bean mounds. Plant 3 squash seeds, 4 in. apart in a triangle in the middle of each mound as shown in Diagram #4.

6. When the squash seedlings emerge, thin them to 2 plants per mound. You may have to weed the area several times until the squash take over and shade new weeds.

Links to Legends about the Three Sisters:

1. Bird Clan of E. Central Alabama: The Three Sisters
http://www.birdclan.org/threesisters.htm

2. Cornell University Garden Based Learning: Three Sisters Garden- A Legend
http://blogs.cornell.edu/garden/get-activities/signature-projects/the-three-sisters-exploring-an-iroquois-garden/a-legend/

3. MN State U: Native American Vegetable Contributions: Three Sisters Garden
http://www.mnstate.edu/tah/lesson-plans/lesson_plans_for_2008-2009/native_american_vegetable_c_2.html

source: http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/3sisters.html

Urban Survival

2012-06-13T10:15:00.002-04:00

No matter what sooner or later shit will hit the fan. Now most of talk talk about survival in the woods. But really how many of us live in the woods? Most of live in an Urban or suburban areas. So knowing how to survive in these areas will be very useful once shit does hit the fan.

Even if you are fortunate enough to have a retreat out in the country getting to your safe haven maybe impossible during upheaval. Roads blocked by wrecked and fuelless vehicles will stop most bugouters in their tracks. Maybe you were born lucky and can make it out safely before the balloon bursts, then what?

People in rural areas, will start shooting if threatened by mobs of refugees fleeing the city. Don’t expect to be welcomed with arms outstretched. Most country folks don’t trust outsiders; you will likely be greeted with a load of buckshot and not the cup of fresh coffee and meaningful conversation you hoped for.

After the cities are in ruins, criminal gangs will start to migrate to the country where they will continue their business of stealing and terrorizing in more fruitful territory. If you can stay hidden and survive the first weeks after a collapse you may at some point have the entire city pretty much to yourself. If you can’t or won’t get out NOW at least start making plans to survive where you are.

Food Storage A Must For The Urban Survivalist

You should store enough survival food to last at least six months. This means enough food to live on without leaving home. Food stables include, rice, beans, honey, wheat, sugar, tea, coffee, salt, pepper, baking soda, cooking oil etc. Also canned soups, meats, fruits and vegetables should be included for verity. The food storage calculator is an excellent tool for approximating needed qualities of foods and is a great help here.

Sprouting seeds will keep you supplied with fresh greens even in the winter. Sprouts are germinated seeds of vegetables, nuts, grains and legumes. Sprouts are nutritious, inexpensive and high in protein. Sprouts should be included in your survival food plans. All that is needed is a couple of quart mason jars, a squire of nylon window screen, rubber bands and viable seed stock.

If you decide to include whole grains in your diet, you will need a grain grinder. Grinders should be steel-burred, not stone. Some people suggest that steel-burred grinders cause heat that could damage the nutrient content of the grain. Don’t buy it. Hand grinding doesn’t cause enough heat to cause damage. Don’t waist your money on stone grinders or combination steel and stone, get the much cheaper but entirely functional steel-burred grinder.

Next you will need something to cook on. Colman multi fuel camp stoves are perfect for this sort of thing. Or something like a camping stove or something that you would use while you are camping will do just perfect

Remember, when using stoves like these indoors the fumes must be vented to the outside, if not carbon monoxide can build up and kill you.

If you don’t have one already go by your local shopping center and pick up a Stanly Aladdin narrow-mouth thermos bottle. You will use the thermos as an energy-efficient appliance for cooking. Don’t get a wide-mouthed thermos; if you intend to use it for cooking, these are less efficient at holding heat.

It is best to use a different bottle for cooking then your everyday thermos. Coffee smell for instance, tends to leach into whatever you are cooking, even if the bottle has been cleaned.

Thermos cooking is in no way difficult or complicated, all you need is some simple directions.

Water in Urban Areas

Without a source of clean drinking water most of us will die within seven days, three during extreme weather. The problem with water is it’s difficult to store enough to last through an extended emergency. Most of us just don’t have the space required to store the volume of water needed.

The water from a water-bed can be used in an emergency if you have a method of purifying the water before drinking. The average waterbed will hold about five hundred gallons; a family of four could have two thousand gallons in waterbed storage.

Collecting rain water on the roof could be a solution in areas that receive an ample amount rain fall. Use plastic sheets etc, to funnel the life-giving liquid into clean trash cans, buckets or other containers.

Some urban areas have lakes or streams near by. Never drink directly from the source; there is no way of knowing if the water is contaminated without proper testing. Don’t take chances; invest in a good water filter to be sure. The best filters filter out Bacteria, Organic Chemicals and Protozoa (Giardia) Viruses. Or get a water survival kit that can comes with all sorts of goodies that can kill any bad bacteria.

Survival Shelter in Urban Areas

Now not all of live in a house. Some of us live in an apartment. Knowing your area and being able to over come living in an apartment can you help survive. After all you will have to over come this limitation in order to survive. So don't panic just think logically. One good thing you can do is replace your door with a better one. When me and my family would live in apartments before we got a house we would replace doors and lock and put back the old ones when we left.

Don’t forget smoke and carbon monoxide. Keep at least two fully charged fire extinguishers on hand . Also the magnetic break door and window alarms work well when used to guard the windows and doors leading into the apartment.

If you are above the second floor an escape ladder or rope should be put back in case of fire. A proper mask should also be considered.

When we pay rent we are always faced with the possibility of eviction. If possible keep the rent paid up at least six months or more in advance. If you have no other way of paying in advance, borrowing the money from the bank will keep you sheltered during hard times. I hate debt but this is on area where it could be to your advantage depending on your personal circumstances and how you work the situation.

Going mobile could be an option for the city survivor, but fuel would become a problem post peak-oil. Like everything else in life we must weigh the good against the bad and make our choices based on that knowledge. If you are interested in this, a great information can be found here.

Urban Survival Weapons

Defense in the city will likely be a short-range engagement. For city work I recommend a good pump shotgun and a handgun. The Mossberg 500 or Remington 870 with 18 inch barrel are both excellent choices. The double-barreled coach guns should also be considered. For versatility put back a verity of shot loading as well as buckshot and rifled slugs.

Handguns should be at least .38 caliber or above. I like both revolvers and semi autos, in skilled hands both can be effective. Stay with what you know and practice. If you have had little or no training in this area seek out a competent instructor and become qualified. If you are fortunate enough to live in a state that issues concealed carry permits, you should apply for yours as soon as possible.

A good foraging tool in urban areas is the Springfield Armory M6 scout. It was developed for the U.S. Air Force as a survival tool for downed pilots and works well in that role. I think the main advantage this little rifle has over others is the fact it can be broken down or folded up and hidden in a backpack until needed.

Wild Game in Urban Survival Planning

As the human population continues to decline, look for a huge increase in the number of wild and semi-wild animals. Mostly small game such as rabbit and squirrel but what most people fail to realize is that the outskirts of most urban centers harbor a good number of whitetail deer.

Small game can be taken with traps, air rifles, slingshots or ever killed with a club or rock. When I lived on a lot in a small city I shoot squirrels that found their way into my back lot with a .22 caliber single rifle loaded with CB caps, (down-loaded .22 rimfire ammo) the little rounds are very quiet and can take most small animals out to about ten yards. Deer can easily be snared or shot.

Look for huge numbers of semi-domestic dogs and cats to populate urban areas after a collapse. If you can get past the thought and your own limitations these can be good sources of meat. Dogs can be caught in snares and cats are easy to trap using homemade box traps.

Most cities have an abundant pigeon population. It is a simple matter to follow the flock to their roost at dusk. Shinning a light into their eyes they tend to set still where they can be caught or killed with little trouble. Air guns and sling shots work well.

Without a doubt the most abundant source of meat in any urban environment is the common rat. They have thrived under even the most challenging circumstances. It is almost a certainty if there are human survivors after any catastrophe rats will be in abundance. Like most small animals they can be trapped in homemade box traps or shot.

The Urban Survival Garden

Don’t expect to support yourself entirely from a city garden, at least not at first. I have raised tomatoes in a window box and hanging baskets on the terrace. Perhaps in time large community gardens would spring up that could be worked by groups of survivors.

During the first months preceding a collapse gardens will need to be hidden and out of sight. A lot of vegetables are easily mistaken for weeds and are not all that difficult to keep hidden from passers-by.

The first rule of avoiding detection is to never plant your crops in a row. The three sisters gardening method comes to mind, the some North American Indian tribes used this technique to grow corn, beans and squash to great effect and it acts as a natural camouflage.

When it comes to survival gardening, obviously we must start with seed; it becomes a necessity to have a source of viable seed on hand. Look for non-hybrid (“heirloom”) varieties, you want to be sure the seed saved from year to year will breed true and continue to do so. Hybrid varieties for the most part are unpredictable and seem to only do well during the first year of planting.

Most garden varieties should be included in your stock. Include such vegetables as: artichoke, asparagus, beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chives, corn, cucumber, eggplant, garlic, gourds, kale, leeks, lettuce, mustard green, onions, parsley, parsnips, peanuts, peas, peppers, pumpkin, radishes, soybeans, spinach, squash, sunflowers, swiss chard, tomatoes, turnip, watermelon, zucchini etc; In general put back seeds that grow well in your area and of foods you like to eat.

Conclusion

Even in the most populated areas after the rioting, burning and looting subsides there will be survivors. The most difficult part is surviving the first few months after the crash, and then the rebuilding can begin. Knowing your surrounding will you help you in the long run. Also always thing logically about your situation, never act out of fear. Do what you think is best for you and your family.

Are you ready to survive in an urban area if shit hit the fan tomorrow? How will you react in an urban survival situation?

Stay put or bug out that is the question

2012-06-06T22:18:00.000-04:00

We are sorry for the down time we did not have a laptop or computer to post anything recently, now however the laptop is fixed and we are back. We will try to get to as many requests as we can this week and next week. We will also be doing a radio show. So stayed tuned. Thank you for everyone's support for our down time.

So to bug out or stay put that is the question.

The very idea of leaving the security of your home to “bug out” to the woods has never sat well with me – In nearly every instance it’s better to hunker down or “bug in” than to bug out. I mean, why leave the safety and familiar surroundings of your home, for the open and unforgiving wilderness.

For many people this is their first line of preparation against disaster, unfortunately, most will end up joining the multitude of other refugees freezing in a cave and eventually end up dead or wards of whatever government is still functioning.

Most people live in a safe area. Or at least in an area you feel safe in. However, in a disaster situation in most cases depending on the disaster I would more than likely bug out. Because lets face it in disasters even the most safe places can turn unsafe in the blink of an eye. So having a safe bug out location is a good idea. But not all situations are the same. Sometimes you just have to stay put and hope for the best.

Most people are thinking “what about an end of the world as we know it” type event, well if such an event were to take place, there would be no 100% safe place for most of us, and really do you think you would be better of making a go of it in the open wilderness as opposed to hunkering down at home. If stuff is blowing up or earthquakes are going off finding a real safe place will be a challenge.

I’m not saying we should never bug out to the wilderness; all options should be kept open, what I am saying is that there are better ways to survive most disasters than heading into the bush.

You need to weigh the risks of bugging out vs. hunkering down and make your final decision based on logic and type of threat or the situation at hand, after all survival is about adaption no one can really plan out every type of what if event. Every decision in a survival situation should not be made with emotion but with logic, sadly most people rely on emotions and feelings most of which are run for the hills. While sometimes it can save our lives acting on an emotion, some times it can also be our down fall and that is where logic needs to kick in.

Relying on emotion instead of logic can make for some interesting adventures; however without sound planning beforehand those adventures are likely to be sort lived.

When making survival plans for your family you have to honestly weigh the risks of your decision based on logic. In almost every disaster scenario, it is better to stay put (bugging in) or head to a pre-arranged safe place at an out-of-town relatives or friends house than it is to head to the woods to eat twigs and pine bark.

For most people an evacuation bag is a better choice than a bug out bag. An evacuation bag should contain the gear necessary to get you from point A to point B, whereas a bug out bag (in most cases) is geared more toward wilderness survival . I have both, but admittedly my bug out bag is an option of last resort.

Knowing when to go is much more important than the contents of your survival pack or even where you will go. You don’t want to jump and run before you need too, but you don’t want to wait too long or you may never reach your destination.

If you wait for the authorities to give the order to evacuate it may already be too late. The roads leading to safety could be blocked and impassable by motor vehicle and walking to your destination may be impossible or too dangerous to attempt.

On the other hand if you jump and run in response to every potential disaster you’ll soon deplete your resources and the patience of your family, school and employers.For example, say you live in an area prone to tornadoes like Texas and you evacuate to Arkansas every time the clouds turn dark or the wind shakes the leaves. You would literally stay on the road. But waiting until the twister is at your door will put you at an unnecessary risk.

There are no easy answers; all you can do is weigh the dangers of bugging out vs. hunkering down depending on the situation and logic. You have to consider the nature of the threat and ask yourself which gives the best chance of survival with regards to the type of disaster you are facing.

Then, there are times when evacuation is a no brainer, say you live on the Florida coast and a category 5 hurricane has been predicted to hit that coast within twenty-four hours, in that case you would be stupid not to go now, even if you have no prearranged bug out location…

On the other hand let’s say there is snow storm heading your way and you have food, water, heat and a way to cook even if the power goes out for an extended amount of time then you are probably better off to hunker down where you are.

In my opinion the bugging out vs. hunkering down debate is moot because it all comes down to the type of threat, your personal situation and preparedness level – in the end you’ll have to make that decision based on that knowledge and common sense.

Do you plan to “bug out” or “bug in” please let us know in the comments below. And do you rely on emotions or logic when it comes to planning your bug out?

Be your own weather man

2012-05-25T09:18:00.000-04:00

How to predict weather

When you are on your wilderness trip, some basic knowledge about how to predict weather will help you to take appropriate action for not getting into trouble and risk your safety.

Air pressure

Changing weather means changing air pressure. Decreasing air pressure indicates the approach of a low pressure area, which often brings clouds and precipitation. Increasing air pressure often means that a high pressure area is approaching, bringing a fine and clear day. A barometer measures air pressure and is a well-known instrument to predict weather.

There are also nature signs of changing air pressure that can be used to forecast weather. For example, on a fine and clear day, the smoke from the campfire rises steadily. If it starts swirling and descending, the air pressure decreases and bad weather will be expected.

Clouds

An ability to accurately read cloud formations is important when you want to understand how to predict weather. Clouds are classified into different types, according to height and shape. Not all clouds bring rain, some are signs of fine weather.

During a fine day (1), the clouds are white, the higher the finer. Storm clouds (2) are generally black, low, and massed in large clusters. If wet weather is approaching (3), the cloud will form a grayish veil. This means it is time to take shelter.

Red Sky

A red sky at either dusk or dawn is one of the most beautiful natural signs you can use to predict the weather. At dusk, a red sky indicates that the next day will probably be a dry and fine day. This is due to the sun shining through dust particles being pushed ahead of a high pressure system bringing in dry air. A red sky at dawn often means that an approaching low pressure system is bringing in a lot of moisture in the air. This is a fair indication that a storm is approaching.

How animals predict the weather

Animals sense the movements in air pressure that precede all weather changes. Watch the animals around you and see if you notice changes in their behavior with various types of weather. Humans have used animal behavior to predict weather and storms for centuries. Right before a rain, insect-eating birds, such as swallows, have a tendency to fly much lower to the ground, and bees and butterflies seem to disappear from the flower beds they usually visit.

Books

Buy the book from here: http://astore.amazon.com/blogrant-20/detail/1585748579 or just check it out.

Dooms Day Clock

2012-05-23T09:46:00.002-04:00

Just as a quick reminder we have one week left to get 25 followers before we can give away our survival kit.
Also if you need any survival items check out our online store http://astore.amazon.com/blogrant-20

New Dooms Day Clock

The Doomsday Clock, maintained by the Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists, is meant to indicate how close the world's chieftains are in bringing the experience of bright, white flashes and enveloping mushroom clouds to a neighborhood near you.

Even though the Bulletin's clock has merit, I propose that we adopt a new clock that foretells a different kind of doomsday: a time when we live under Total Government, which means Total Tyranny. History teaches us that the closer we get to Total Tyranny, the closer we get to the breakdown of society, pervasive poverty, slavery and war (including nuclear war).

My version of the clock is divided into twelve five-minute slices, and the hands sweep towards midnight as follows:

1. Private property ownership: Presently, the state claims ownership and control over all private property through its self-appointed powers of taxation, eminent domain and regulation. Private property ownership is now only an illusion, a historical artifact. (+5 minutes; Clock at 11:05 p.m.)

2. Personal privacy: The state is now employing an ever-increasing, omnipotent, spy apparatus to single-out threats to its power. However, there are still pockets of privacy and it is possible to escape the information dragnet. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:09p.m.)

4. Freedom of the family: Children are now considered to be the property of the state and can be legally kidnapped. Parents are increasingly arrested for failing to meet arbitrary government criteria on the raising of children including how they are fed and disciplined. However, most parents still have the freedom to legally home-school their children. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:17 p.m.)3. Freedom of movement: Increasingly, citizens are randomly stopped in their travels on public and/or private property because every person is now considered to be a potential enemy of the state. Efforts are underway to make it illegal for some people to leave the country, though such restrictions are not yet the law. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:13 p.m.)

5. Morality of the justice system: Everyone knows that the judicial system is bought and paid-for by the ruling elite. Rarely are laws overturned or opposed even though the laws may be corrupt and immoral. Occasionally, justice is dispensed based upon moral principles, but it is becoming increasingly rare. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:21 p.m.)

6. The rule of law: The smokescreen of public law is used as a means to allow the state to get away with crimes for which private individuals would be arrested. State bureaucrats and police are rarely, if ever, charged with criminal acts and they literally can get away with murder. Today the rule of law is essentially dead. (+5 minutes; Clock at 11:26 p.m.)

8. Economic freedom: Citizens are presently taxed at a total rate that far exceeds that of medieval serfs. The state mandates the use of its monopoly currency which it continually devalues to fund its pet projects and to enrich its politically-connected friends. The government is on the path of tracking every bit of money that changes private hands, though cash exchanges and barter can still go unnoticed. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:35 p.m.)7. Victimless crime: Most laws on the books today make criminals out of non-criminals. No longer is harm required to constitute crime. Also, laws are so complex that it's no longer possible to know if a law is being broken. Anyone can be a criminal without knowing it. The arbitrary will of the bureaucratic class now reigns supreme. (+5 minutes; Clock at 11:31 p.m.)

9. Sate control over business: The decisions made by businessmen are entirely within the purview of government bureaucrats. Every enterprise is highly regulated and hampered by red tape. Free market competition has taken a back seat to government-corporate fascism. Being politically connected is required to get ahead and corporate welfare is pervasive. The state has taken over major segments of private industry, including health care. Small private enterprises can still succeed, but it is becoming more difficult. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:39 p.m.)

10. The police and society: The local police are becoming increasingly politicized and militarized. Military outposts that once operated overseas now operate in your local shopping center parking lot. Drones buzz overhead. Torture with Taser guns is now viewed as acceptable police enforcement. Thankfully, most police encounters don't end with torture or death at this time. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:43 p.m.)

11. Perpetual war: The state is in a perpetual state of war engaging in a multitude of invented battles that cannot be won. They have no definite end. The enemies are contrived on an as-needed basis. We are now the Oceania of Orwell's 1984. (+5 minutes; Clock at 11:48 p.m.)

12. War on the citizen: Anyone who opposes the will of the state is said to be a traitor. Indefinite time in jail in the absence of supporting evidence and a public trial can be a reality for any individual. Citizens can be imprisoned or murdered at the whim of a bureaucrat or political leader, though today the murdering is limited. (+4 minutes; Clock at 11:52 p.m.)

According to my clock, then, we have eight minutes before the hands strike midnight. Would your version of the Doomsday Clock of Tyranny look much different? The good news is that it's still possible to turn-back the clock once the average voter realizes how dark things have become. At least now we have a clock against which we can measure our progress.

Our Favorite survival Video

Make A Solar Water Distiller

2012-05-21T10:26:00.000-04:00

How to Make a Solar Water Distiller

Distillation is sometimes the only possible for of treatment to purify water. After disasters and during emergencies there are times when there isn’t enough fuel for boiling, or there isn’t a suitable container available to place over an open flame. In a true end of organized society situation or even just disruptions to the supply chains, replacement water filters will not be available and new supplies of disinfection chemicals will disappear. Even backup sources of water need to be disinfected. This is something everyone with have to deal with and a small solar distiller can be built by anyone. Solar water distillers can be created using household items. What you need is a clear glass pot or bowl. As long as it is oven safe. A cup, also glass and tin foil. The tin foil could be better served with something clear, like the lid to your glass pot. Plastic wrap can work if it is thick enough to withstand the heat generated in the device.

The construction is simple:
1) Place the cup in the bowl.
2) Fill bowl with water. Do not go over the height of the cup. Less water will distill faster.
3) Cover the bowl. With the lid/tin foil/plastic wrap.
4) Place the still out in an area that receives a lot of sun.

Solar Water Distiller (Image Source: http://www.teachscienceandmath.com)

This is a solar still at it’s simplest, All you have to do is set it up in a sunny area and come back an hour later. The main drawback is the volume of water treated, in this example you only get a cup of water every few hours. There are additional things you can do to increase the effectiveness and the efficiency. The first thing you can do is add another cup, or two to collect more of the distillate. If your bowl has a lid with a handle in the centre, place the lid on the distiller upside down with the handle pointing into the cup. This should look like a funnel (of sorts) and it will direct more distillate into the cup.

Keeping the water shallow will heat it up faster, using a wider bowl or tray will help with this. There is a balance however to be kept to ensure the water condenses into the cup, which is favored by a narrow bowl.

Placing the still on a black piece of metal will also greatly assist in the heating of the water. You could also place something black and metal in the water or paint the bottom of the bowl. The point is, black surfaces heat up faster.

There are specifically designed lab glassware for distillation. If you can buy these, I suggest you do as they will be your most efficient, and can be placed over a flame if you buy the right ones. The piece that is most useful is the condenser tube. The collection of the distilled water is much more efficient with a condenser tube. Collecting the distilled water in another container allows for faster distillation due to a rapid drop in temperature from the heated vessel to the cooling vessel.

Laboratory Distillation Setup (Image Source: http://kids.britannica.com)

There is only one type of contaminant not removed by distillation, those are volatile chemicals with a boiling point less than water. Volatile chemicals are usually dissolved gasses in the water, they aren’t removed by distillation because these chemicals follow the water through the phase change to a gas and back again into a liquid.

Distillation has another big problem in my opinion. Distilled water tastes bad. You may have different tastes than I do, if you do then go ahead and drink distilled water. Now taste is a luxury in a survival situation and drinking bad tasting clean water is better than contaminated water. As I say at the end of all my emergency water treatment articles, always drink the safest water possible. This is another water disinfection tool you can use when you really need it.

Local Farming Illegal? We Must Stop This Now!

2012-05-17T13:16:00.000-04:00

STOP IT NOW PASS IT AROUND!! THIS CAN NOT PASS!!!!

Take action now or lose your right to grow your own food

Sign this petition atCitizens for Health:
http://www.citizens.org/?page_id=2312

Do it today! This is really important.

In addition, theCornucopia Instituterecently sent out an urgent call-to-action email containing the following information: (http://www.cornucopia.org/2010/11/action-alert-act-by-nov-17-on-senat...)

How to protest Senate Bill 510

1) Go to Congress.org and type in your zip code in the box in the upper right hand corner.

2) Click on your Senator's name, and then on the contact tab for their phone number. You can also call the Capitol Switchboard and ask to be directly connected to your Senator's office: 202-224-3121.

3) Once connected ask to speak to the legislative staff person responsible for agriculture. If they are unavailable leave a voice mail message. Be sure to include your name and phone number.

Give them this message in support of the "Tester Amendment" which would exempt small farms from S.510:

"I am a constituent of Senator___________. I ask that he/she support the Tester Amendment to the food safety bill. The Tester Amendment will exempt the safest, small, owner-operator farms and food facilities and farmers who direct market their products to consumers, stores or restaurants. Food safety legislation should not create inappropriate and costly regulatory barriers to family farms and the growing healthy food movement in the drive to crack down on corporate bad actors. Please support the Tester Amendment and market opportunities for small and mid-sized family farms, and small food processing facilities."

You may also wish to explain thatyou oppose the Food Safety Modernization Actin its entirety, and it is a destructive, freedom-crushing law that will destroy the future of food in America.

Remember, America has already lost control over its money supply to the Federal Reserve (nearly a hundred years ago). America has lost its health due to the medical industry and its profit-from-sickness agenda. Nowwe may lose our right to grow our own food and save our own seedsif Senate Bill 510 passes.

This is a dangerous, tyrannical law that would thrust the American people into an age of darkness and malnutrition. It would criminalize many of the very people growing our food and turn food production into yet anothercorporate monopoly.

Learn more:http://www.naturalnews.com/030418_Food_Safety_Modernization_Act_seeds.html#ixzz1vA2oMiPM

Fruits and Veggies

2012-05-17T10:38:00.001-04:00

One of the best things to have before shit hits the fan is a garden. Nothing can be more beneficial than having fruit and vegetables that you grew freshly in your own backyard. Also if you need seeds or survival seeds buy some from here

http://astore.amazon.com/blogrant-20?_encoding=UTF8&node=4

Start Practicing

The only way to be fully prepared as far as growing plants is concerned is to practice, practice, practice. If the economy takes a turn for the worse, then the gardening knowledge and skills acquired from practicing will come into play at this time. Initially, when beginning to plant a garden, start small and work your way up. Have a small garden plot or do container gardening if you are short on space. Make sure the seeds that are purchased are heirloom or non-GMO varieties. The seeds from these varieties will continually produce. As opposed to hybrid varieties that will only produce for one season.

With each gardening experience will come more wisdom on how to handle a larger garden. When researching what types of fruit and vegetables will be grown, think about what your family will need for an entire year. Keep in mind that if you are lucky enough to have any livestock, grains and grasses will be needed to be grown for them to consume. Any size family will have to have multiple plants. One plant per family member would be essential if you had a small hobby garden. You must think on a larger scale. You are planting a survival garden. And this is exactly what it means – to survive. Plant enough plants to have for food as well as to have left over for canning and preserving for the winters.

Survival Seeds

These seeds that were chosen were based upon their yield quantities, *ease in growing, nutritional content and for the season they are planted in.

Barley -Can be planted in the spring and winter and has the best results when planted early in the season. This grain has loads of health benefits and a variety of purposes. Such as feeding livestock, grinding the grains for flour, as well as making beer. Barley is high in dietary fiber and magnese.
*Beans - Beans should be planted in the early summer. One of the easiest vegetables to grow. Beans have different varieties such as pole beans and bush beans, kidney beans, etc. Pole beans begin and end earlier than bush beans. In comparison, pole beans give a high yield production. A stake is needed for the pole beans. Staggering your plantings will give continuous yields. Beans are very high in fiber, calcium, Vitamins A, C and K.
*Broccoli - Plant seeds in mid to late summer to be ready for the fall harvest. One of the easiest vegetables to grow. This plant has a tendency to give yields past it’s first harvest. And can take light frost with no problem. Broccoli is a good source of protein, Vitamins A and K.
*Carrot - Carrots prefer cooler weather and should be grown in the fall, winter and early spring. One of the easiest vegetables to grow. High in beta carotene and vitamin A.
Cauliflower - This vegetable is a cool season vegetable. It harvests over a short period of time and cuts out a high head yield. High in dietary fiber, Vitamin C and K.
Corn – This is a warm weather crop and should be planted after last frost. Has a good amount of proteins, calcium and iron. The plant will produce two ears per stalk.
*Cucumber - This is a warm weather crop. This is one of the easiest vegetables to grow. There are large varieties and smaller varieties for pickling. Continuous picking increases the plants production. Cucumbers are good sources of Vitamins A, C, K and potassium.
Eggplant – Eggplants are warm weather plants and should be planted after last frost. This night shade vegetable is high in fiber, antioxidants, and a good source of vitamins B1 and B6. This is a very versatile vegetable to cook with.
*Lettuce – Plant two weeks before last frost as well as in the fall 6-8 weeks before the first frost date. One of the easiest vegetables to grow and one of the earliest crops to harvest. There are many different varieties that offer different nutritional content. This plant grows quickly and harvest can be extended by taking a few leaves at a time. Lettuce is packed with essential vitamins and proteins, iron and calcium. Vitamins such as A, B6, C, and K.
Melon - Plant 4 weeks after the last frost as these fruits are intolerant to cold weather. Cantaloupes and Melon varieties need lots of space to grow. Getting the dwarf size of these fruits can save space. One melon plant will produce two melons. Good source of fiber, B6 and folate.
Okra -Plant 2 weeks after last frost. This vegetable has a variety of uses such as in soups, pickled or canned. High in vitamin A, K and folate, and calcium.
*Onion/Garlic - One of the easiest vegetables to grow. Plant onion in mid to late October. Onions can be pulled earlier and used for green onions. A good source of dietary fiber, Vitamin B6, Vitamin C, folate and potassium.
Peanuts – This is a hot season plant and should be planted in April until Early June. Peanuts are a good source for healthy fats, Vitamin E, protein and antioxidants.
*Peas – This is a winter loving plant who is resistant to frost. One of the easiest vegetables to grow. There are many varieties of the pea plant, such as shelling, snap, snow and sugar pod. Most varieties are fast growing. This is a good source of protein, fiber and has a good source of 8 different vitamins including vitamin A, B6, and K.
*Peppers- Grow after the last frost. There are many varieties of peppers as well as choices on if you want them to be hot or mild. Sweet peppers are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. The more peppers are harvested, the more the plant will produce. Peppers are high in Vitamin A and C.
Potatoes- Plant 4-6 weeks before last frost. 1 plant yields 5-6 young potatoes. Potatoes are high in fiber, Vitamin B6, Potassium and Vitamin C.
Pumpkin- Start pumpkin seeds in the late spring. Pumpkins require lots of room for the vines to grow. Pumpkins are packed with vitamins such as thiamine, niacin, Vitamin B6, folate, iron, Vitamin A, C and E.
*Radish – Can be started 4-6 weeks before last frost. Many have had success growing radishes in the fall as well. One of the easiest vegetables to grow. They are very tolerant of weather conditions. Radishes are high in Vitamin B6, dietary fiber, Vitamin C and iron.
Spinach- Spinach grows best in cool weather. However, there are some varieties that like warm weather. Many call this a super food based upon it’s large array of vitamins such as Vitamin A, C, iron, thiamine, thiamine and folic acid.
*Squash – There are both summer squash and winter squash varieties. One of the easiest vegetables to grow and most are prolific producers. Picking squash regularly encourages a higher yield. A Good source of Vitamin A, B6, C, K, and dietary fiber.
* Tomato- Plant tomatoes in the late spring and again in the late summer. One of the easiest vegetables to grow. Tomatoes are a good source of Vitamin A, C, K, E, Potassium, thiamine and Niacin.
Turnips/Rutabagas – Seeds should be sown in late May or early summer. Turnips are fairly disease free and easily cared for. The greens as well as the root can be eaten. Turnips are high in B6, Vitamin C, Iron and Calcium.
Wheat- Winter wheat can be planted from late September to mid October. This is the preferred variety due to the nutritional content as well as the protection it gives the soil in the wintertime compared to spring wheat. Spring wheat is planted in early spring. This is one of the most commonly used food crops in the world. Wheat is high in copper, zine, iron and potassium. Planting a 10×10 plot will yield between 10-25 loaves of bread.

Other seeds to take into consideration are crop cover seeds such as hairy vetch or clover. These crop covers loosen up soil as well as gives the soil nitrogen to feed the plants for the next season. These crop covers are also food for livestock such as cattle, sheep and rabbits. When the crop cover is mowed, the cuttings can be used as a natural mulch.

Having a wide array of food choices when times get tough will keep spirits up, nutrition high and give each person a high amount of energy. Do research and find the best plants for you and your family. Become familiar with planting cycles at a local level. Finding pertinent information regarding soil conditions, natural fertilizers, and germination of seeds can get you ready for a good planting season. The more prepping you do on this, the better your family will eat when they need food the most.

Sources:

http://www.nutritiondata.com/

http://howtogardenguide.com/

http://gardening.about.com/

How to grow apple trees

Sun exposure: Full Sun

Soil type: Loamy

Soil pH: Neutral 

Bloom time: Summer, Fall

Ever wish you could have an apple orchard in your backyard? You can—in the space of a single tree—if you plant a hedge of dwarf apple trees or an apple espalier.

To get started, let's talk about selection criteria first:

Look for disease-resistant trees that give you the ability to grow organic fruit or to use fewer chemicals. Maintenance is easier, too.
Plant dwarf or semidwarf apple trees for ease of care and harvest. Dwarf trees won't take over the yard!
Buy dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old trees, is possible. Dwarfs and semidwarfs will bear in 3 to 4 years, yielding 1 to 2 bushels per year. Standard-size trees will bear in 5 to 8 years, yielding 4 to 5 bushels of apples per year.
Apples do not fertilize themselves; ideally, plant at least one other variety that blooms at the same time.
Choose the right rootstock (foundation). For dwarf trees, make sure that the rootstock is specified. A Bud 9 is a common, hardy tree that's easy to train for USDA Climate Zones 3 to 5. The M9 is probably the most widely planted rootstock, though it would die in frigid winters.

Planting

Spring planting is recommended in central and northern areas. Where fall and winter weather is generally mild and moist, fall planting is successful.

Climate Considerations

Not every apple grows everywhere. Each variety has a specific number of days needed for fruit maturity.
Tree tags don't always tell you where the variety grows best, but many catalogs do. Also, check with your county extension agent for a specific recommendation for your area.
As a general rule, if a tree is termed hardy, it grows best in Zones 3 to 5. If termed long-season, apple quality will be best in Zones 5 to 8. Check your zone here.
Each variety has a number of chill hours needed to set fruit (i.e., the amount of time temperatures are between 32 and 45 degrees F). The farther north you go, the more chill hours an apple variety needs to avoid late spring freeze problems. Check tree tags for chill hour information or ask the seller.

Site and Soil

Choose a sunny site. For best fruiting, an apple tree needs "full sunlight," which means six or more hours of direct summer sun daily. The best exposure for apples is a north- or east-facing slope.
Pay attention to the soil. Apple trees need well-drained soil, not too wet. Soil needs to be moderately rich and retain moisture as well as air; mulch with straw, hay, or some other organic material to keep soil moist and provide nutrients as they decompose.
Dwarf apple trees are notoriously prone to uprooting under the weight of a heavy crop, so you should provide a support system for your hedge. You can grow your trees against a fence, or you can provide free-standing support in the form of a trellis.

Cross-Pollinating

Cross-pollination occurs between varieties, so you need at least two different varieties, not just two different trees.
If you lack space for more than one apple tree (or do not want more than one), the pollen came come from somewhere else. You could graft a single branch of another variety onto your tree, rely on a nearby neighbor's tree or crab apple tree, or snip of a flowering branch from another variety at bloom time and set it into a bucket of water at the base of your tree.
For best results, include a 'Grimes Golden', 'Golden Delicious', 'Red Delicious', or 'Winter Banana' in your planting. These varieties are known pollinators.
Nursery catalogs will provide pollination charts.

Care

Minimize Pruning of a Young Tree

Pruning slows a young tree's overall growth and can delay fruiting, so don't be in a hurry to prune, other than removing misplaced, broken, or dead branches. There are several techniques to direct growth without heavy pruning. For example:

Rub off misplaced buds before they grow into misplaced branches.
Bend a stem down almost horizontally for a few weeks to slow growth and promote branches and fruiting. Tie down with strings to stakes in the ground or to lower branches.

Prune a Mature Tree Annually

Once an apple tree has filled in and is bearing fruit, it requires regular, moderate pruning.

Prune your mature tree when it is dormant. Completely cut away overly vigorous, upright stems (most common high up in the tree).
Remove weak twigs (which often hang from the undersides of limbs.
Shorten stems that become too droopy, especially those low in the tree.
After about ten years, fruiting spurs (stubby branches that elongate only about a half-inch per year) become overcrowded and decrepit. Cut away some of them and shorten others.
When a whole limb of fruiting spurs declines with age, cut it back to make room for a younger replacement.

Thin Ruthlessly

Thin or remove excess fruit. This seems hard but this practice evens out production, prevents a heavy crop from breaking limbs, and ensures better-tasting, larger fruit crop.
Soon after fruit-set, remove the smallest fruits or damaged ones,leaving four inches between those that remain.

Pests

Apples are prone to pests. Here are some pointers:

Keep deer at bay with repellents or fencing; deter mice and rabbits with wire-mesh cylinders around the base of the tree.
Sprays may be needed for insects, although one of the worst culprits, the apple maggot, can be trapped simply enough by hanging one or two round, softball-size balls, painted red and coated with sticky "Tangle-Trap," from a branch in June through the summer. Reapply the sticky goo a time or two, as necessary.
Fend off diseases by raking apple leaves, burying them beneath mulch, or grinding them with a lawn mower at season's end.
Pruning reduces disease by letting in more light and air.

Harvest/Storage

Harvest Patiently. After all this pruning and caring, be sure to harvest your apples at their peak of perfection.

Pluck your apples when their background color is no longer green.
Different apple varieties mature at different times, so the harvest season can stretch from August to October.
At this point, the stem should part readily from the branch when the fruit is cupped in the palm of your hand and given a slight twist around, then up.
If the apple is overripe and soft, use for cooking!
Apples keep well for about six months at temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees F.

"Baked apples have an excellent effect upon the whole physical system, feeding the brain as well as adding to the flesh, and keeping the blood pure; also preventing constipation and correcting a tendency to acidity, which produces rheumatism and neuralgia." –A Tip from The 1898 Old Farmer's Almanac

Recommended Varieties

Beyond climate considerations, how will you use your apples? Do you love to bake apple pies? Or, perhaps you just want apples that taste far better than what you could buy in a grocery store.

A young dwarf tree produces about 1 1/2 bushels of fruit—and even less when the tree is part of an apple hedge. So, if you're interested in baking lots of 'Cox's Orange Pippin' apple pies, you'll need to plant several trees of that variety to get enough fruit.
If you have no particular culinary goal, try planting one each of different varieties that ripen over the entire harvest season. Then you can enjoy regular apple tastings and still have enough fruit on hand for a "mess" of cooked apples.
Plant disease-resistant apple varieties such as 'Liberty', 'Jonafree', 'Macfree', and 'Williams Pride'.
Seek out the advice of local orchardists about the varieties that will do well in your area. Do the bulk of your planning from an easy chair, with a half-dozen nursery catalogs in your lap!