Wirdheim in Vilanova

Vilafranca's 'Tots Sants' Day of Human Towers

2009-11-01T23:48:00.010+01:00

Today, while many Catalans went to cementaries to look after late family members, we went to Vilafranca del Penedès, to watch the Diada de Tots Sants. My two small sons were extremely noisy in the car, but I still managed to catch a comment from the radio that this first of November came with temperatures more typical for the first of September, i.e. ideal conditions for human towers.

We arrived just on time to see what I thought would be the highlight of the day: the Castellers de Vilafranca building a 3 de 10. Although I stood far away, I was – as always – totally amazed with the huge base (pinya) which this team manages to bring together. It is a pity that they did not make it – I guess this was the last opportunity for there being a castell of ten levels during the 2009 season – but I am so grateful that they never give up.

To compensate, I was allowed to see at least three other outstanding human towers. Starting from the most advanced construction, the Castellers de Vilafranca assembled and dismantled a torre de 9 amb folre i manilles.

Then we had the Capgrossos de Mataró, who made their, as I understand it, first 4 de 9 for this season.

And finally - after a long break in a playground where my children forced me to go - by chance I came relatively close to the Al·lots de Llevant when they assembled (carregar) a 4 de 8. This is much more unique than it sounds since these people from Manacor (Mallorca) made their best performance (actuació) ever and hereby are the first team from outside Catalonia to reach eight levels during this season.

I also saw the Castellers de Lleida assembling a 4 de 8. Impressive, yes, but not exceptional since they have a solid record.

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While I was still living on the very rainy Swedish west coast, a friend of mine once told me to stop worrying about the weather since you cannot do anything about it. I have never managed to follow his advice, but instead I have moved to a country where the weather is usually very benign. These days, however, I must admit falling back in old tracks. Let us, please, have three weekends without rain or strong winds so that we, the Bordegassos de Vilanova, can make attempts at human towers of eight levels.

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Here is the el3deVuit article on today’s events.

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Human Towers, Penedès, Vilafranca

The Event Calendar - November 2009 - by Wirdheim.cat

2009-10-29T23:29:00.007+01:00

A first version – soon to be up-dated:

The Wirdheim.CAT Event Calendar has a focus on activities typical for the Catalan popular culture and is presented under the headlines Human Towers, Festa Major, Other Events and Exhibitions.

General information can be found at the end of this entry.

Castells/Castellers (Human Towers) and Falcons

November 1: At 12:30 in Vilafranca del Penedès (BCN). The Tots Sants (All Saints) Day of Human Towers. Nota Bene: The "Green ones from Vilafranca" promise a new attempt to build a human tower of 10 levels!
Participants: Al·lots de Llevant, Capgrossos de Mataró, Castellers de Lleida, Castellers de Vilafranca

November 1: Human pillars walk up the 99 stairs to the cathedral in Girona.
Participants: Marrecs de Salt

November 1: Cornellà (BCN). The Castellers de Cornellà Day of Human Towers
Participants: Castellers de Barcelona, Castellers de Cornellà, Margeners de Guissona

November 1: Rubí (BCN). The Castellers de Rubí Day of Human Towers
Participants: Castellers de Castelldefels, Castellers de Rubí, Colla Jove de l’Hospitalet

November 7: Festa Major at Sant Martí de Tous (BCN).
Participants: Moixiganguers d’Igualada

November 8: At 12:30 in the Plaça de la Vila of Vilafranca del Penedès (BCN). Diada del Roser
Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova, Xicots de Vilafranca

November 8: Vic (BCN). Diada dels Sagals d’Osona
Participants: Moixiganguers d’Igualada, Sagals d’Osona, Xerrics d’Olot

November 8: Sant Cugat del Vallès (BCN). Diada dels Castellers de Sant Cugat
Participants: Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, Castellers de Sant Cugat, Castellers de Sants

November 8: Terrassa (BCN). Diada dels Castellers de Terrassa
Participants: Castellers d’Esplugues, Castellers de Sabadell, Castellers de Terrassa, Xiquets de Reus,

November 8: Mataró (BCN). Diada dels Capgrossos de Mataró
Participants: Capgrossos de Mataró Castellers de Barcelona, Castellers de Lleida,

November 8: Vila-Rodona (TGN). The fair (fira) of Vila-Rodona
Participants: Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls, Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls,

November 8: Manresa (BCN). Diada de les Tirallongues de Manresa
Participants: Matossers de Molins de Rei, Tirallongues de Manresa, Xics de Granollers,

November 8: At the Plaça Mossèn Joan Xandri of Centelles (BCN). Jornada castellera.
Participants: Moixiganguers d’Igualada, Sagals d’Osona, Xerrics d’Olot

November 8: At C de Blai of Barcelona (BCN). Jornada castellera.
Participants: Castellers de Castelldefels, Castellers de la Sagrada Familia, Castellers del Poble Sec,

November 8: Festa Major de Sant Martí at Altafulla (TGN).
Participants: Angelets del Vallespir, Castellers d’Altafulla, Nens del Vendrell, Nois de la Torre,

November 8: Festa Major at Ginestar (TGN).
Participants: Minyons de l’Arboç

November 11: Diada de Sant Martí at Altafulla (TGN).
Participants: Castellers d’Altafulla

November 14: Festa Major de La Verneda, (City of Barcelona).
Participants: Castellers de Barcelona

November 15: Trobada castellera at the plaça de la Vila of Badalona (BCN).
Participants: Castellers de Badalona, Sagals d’Osona

November 15: Diada de Xics de Granollers (BCN)
Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova, Minyons de Terrassa, Xics de Granollers,

November 15: Diada de Sant Zacaries in el Vendrell (TGN).
Participants: Nens del Vendrell

November 15: Diada dels Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, (City of Barcelona).
Participants: Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, Castellers de Sant Cugat, Castellers de Sants,

November 15: Festa Major del Clot (City of Barcelona).
Participants: Castellers de Barcelona, Castellers d’Esplugues

November 21: Diada dels Bordegassos de Vilanova i la Geltrú (BCN).
Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova, Xics de Granollers,

Festa Major - Town Festivities

Soon to be up-dated

Other events

November 12-15, Fira de Novembre - a multisector trade fair occupying almost the whole centre of Vilanova i la Geltrú. You will find my company, Puck Import, S.L. in stand number 110, in the huge tent in the plaça del Mercat.

Exhibitions

‘Eros+Ismes: L’erotisme i la subjectivitat creativa’ - erotic art at La Sala in Vilanova i la Geltrú. Until December 13.

'Surge et Ambula' the jubilee exhibition to the 125 anniversary of the Victor Balaguer Museum of Vilanova. Until March 25, 2010.

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The Wirdheim.CAT Event Calendar is a summary of events where I will go, or at least could think of going, and can hopefully be of help to other expats or tourists when they explore Catalonia. It is biased towards the Penedès area (including Sitges), but will also list manifestations of popular culture and other activities taking place in Barcelona, along the Costa Daurada and in the rest of the Catalan speaking world.

This entry will be up-dated whenever I learn about new things, since (compared to my native Sweden) here information about what will happen tends to come late.

To the greatest extent possible will I link back to official pages (usually in Catalan) for information on time and locations but can not guarantee the correctness of the data presented.

Further information on castells/castellers (human tower) performances can be found under the tag ‘Properes Actuacions‘at the Coordinadora de les Colles Castelleres de Catalunya, or in the ‘Calendari’ at LaMalla.cat/castellers.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Costa Daurada, Expat, Human Towers, Penedès, Sitges, Vilafranca, Vilanova

Victor Balaguer, 'Surge et Ambula'!

2009-10-27T00:29:00.004+01:00

On October 26, 1884, politician Victor Balaguer inaugurated his own museum here in Vilanova. Last Sunday, actor Lluís Soler read his 125 year old opening speech for the many people who had come to celebrate the renovation of the façade of this building – emblematic to the town and the almost the first thing you see if you arrive here by train. After that, the jubilee exhibition “Surge et Ambula”, (Get up and Walk), as of the museums motto, was officially opened.

If the Victor Balaguer museum always provides clues to which things and phenomena fascinated an 19th century intellectual, this exhibition goes one step further and recreates the interiors as it can be seen in photos of the early years. More or less all original items have been brought out from the archives, and hung without any chronological or thematic order. On purpose, there are not any explaining signs, so those who want to learn what they see have to look into the program.

That might seem unstructured with our perspective, but was apparently perceived differently by Balaguer and his contemporaries. The intention behind this art museum and library was not to entertain, but to found an academy and spread knowledge to the local inhabitants as well as to rest of Catalonia.

Victor Balaguer must have had a great persuasive talent since thanks to him, a big share of the new won wealth which the americanos brought here in the late 19th century, went into projects for the common good. In an interview in El Punt, museum director Montserrat Comas points out that, during those years, Vilanova did not merely evolve, but decided that it wanted to become a modern town and took radical measures – among which the railway connection with Barcelona stands out for its scale - to reach that goal.

I will not pretend to be especially interested in the odd objects this man collected, but his personality fascinates me. There cannot be many people who better personify the Catalan expressions “fer pais” and “fer ciutat” - to build a country and a town, respectively. I wonder what visions he would have for Vilanova, the Penedès or the whole of Catalonia of our days. Get up and walk, Victor Balaguer! We need your spirit.

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The temporary exhibition "Surge et Ambula" can be seen until March 25, 2010.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Catalonia, Penedès, Vilanova,

Falcons de Vilanova Ending their 2009 Season

2009-10-25T23:46:00.004+01:00

Since we have temperatures which make you think of a good Swedish summer, it is difficult to understand that the teams which build human towers (castellers) or falcon constructions (the acrobatic version) are about to end their seasons. But we have already had a short foretaste of cold and stormy weather and soon the squares of Catalonia will too slippery for these cultural expressions.

This Saturday, October 24, the Falcons de Vilanova celebrated their ‘team day’ (diada de la colla), together with visitors from the relatively young formation Falcons de Castellcir. As of tradition, the performance started with a parade through the town centre followed by an exhibition on a stage in the Plaça de la Vila.

Compared to what I have got used to, I think that the Falcons de Vilanova had relatively many, and seemingly unnecessary falls. All of them, however, were highly controlled and did not seam to worry the children of the top levels, so we were still treated to a magnificent collection of 'ventalls', 'vols', 'the cathedral', a 'pira' of ten levels, a ‘capdil 8 de 9’ and a four-level pillar erected from below.

The Falcons de Castellcir won my liking with their festive atmosphere and samba inspired music, and presented us with several constructions, for example a staircase (escala) of 7 levels.

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During the same hours as Vilanova was busy watching falcons, the human tower team of our neighbour town Sitges - la Colla Jove - managed to assemble and dismantle a so called “4 de 8”. I certainly want to congratulate them but, at the same time, hope that this serves as a motivator for all Bordegassos of Vilanova. We still have three more opportunities to prove to ourselves (politically correct in the world of castellers) and to the world (highly incorrect, but what I strongly feel) that we are at least on the same level. Honestly, do we want to end the season as the second best team of the comarca Garraf?

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Garraf, Human Towers, Penedès, Sitges, Vilanova

Erotic Emotions Let Loose in Vilanova

2009-10-22T00:20:00.007+02:00

Last Friday, La Sala – Vilanova’s Centre of Contemporary Art – opened the doors to two new exhibitions. The main one is called ‘Eros+Ismes: L’erotisme i la subjectivitat creativa’ (Eroticism and the creative subjectivity). It arrives in our town thanks to Art Catalunya, a co-operation between galleries which want to spread contemporary art also outside the centre of Barcelona. For 2009, they selected eroticism as a topic since it acts as an optimistic counterweight in a world marked by financial crisis, fraud and abuse.

Eros by Josep Minguell

This exhibition presents works created with different techniques, from 1964 until now - a few made by internationally famous people like Picasso, but most by less well-known artists. What I wonder, however, when reading in the program that “there has always been a connection between art and eroticism”, is why Miró and Dalí are not represented. To me, they are both obvious examples of that statement.

On the walls from left to right, paintings by José Portilla, Jordina Orbañano (Malgrat tot), and Josep Niebla (Teleporno). Sculpture by Antonio Beneyto (Eréctil).

The smaller exhibition this time is created by Alexpazumo and is called ‘Aurores emocionals’. The inspiration to it comes from the impact a scene from the science fiction movie "Soylen Green" had on the artist as a child. A TV screen showing the film occupies one corner of the hall, but the installation above all consists of of abstract formations in strong colours accompanied by sound effects.

‘Eros+Ismes’ can be seen until December 13, while November 15 is the last day for ‘Aurores emocionals’. La Sala is located at C/ Joaquin Mir 12 and entry is free of charge. The current exhibition is not the best one I have seen there but, as always, worth at least one visit. A few years ago I wondered if Vilanova really needs to have its own centre of contemporary art. To be honest, I guess not, but I will not protest since I realize that La Sala has become one of the many things I really like with this small town.

Venus Depilada by Eleazar

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Per cert: Aquest dilluns a la bustia de correus tradicional vaig rebre l’invitació a l’inauguració d'aquest exposició, la qual va tenir lloc el divendres passat. A mi, no m’importa gaire, ja que havia captat l’informació a través de mitjans de comunicació més modernes. Tanmateix i malauradament no és el primer cop que passa i per això em permiteixo preguntar: si no podem fer arribar les cartes sense retards, no seria millor deixar d’enviar-las? Si no per altres raons, al menys per estalviar paper i salvar un arbre o dos.

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Technorati tags: Costa Daurada, Penedès, Vilanova

Vilanova Commemorates Lluís Companys

2009-10-16T00:51:00.005+02:00

Last year, I wrote quite extensively about Lluís Companys - a democratically elected president of the Generalitat who was executed - and why he is being commemorated on October 15. This year, and for the first time, I observed how this is being done here in Vilanova i la Geltrú.

At lunch-time, representatives of most political parties and surprisingly many (not so young) ordinary vilanovins met up at the monument raised in his honour down in the Rambla Lluís Companys. Local mayor Joan Ignasi Elena opened with a speech, which was followed by els Segadors - the Catalan national anthem - and a chance for people to put down flowers. In all a short, but very dignified ceremony. Next year, I promise to put on more appropriate clothes.

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By the way: The Catalan political parties - surprisingly united - are committed to keep on working for the annulation of the alleged crimes for which Lluís Companys was murdered in 1940.

Vilanova Against Violence

2009-10-13T00:36:00.004+02:00

Saturday October 3, in the morning, when I went out to buy bread, I found the Rambla de la Pau in the centre of Vilanova closed off. The area around a music bar called "White Island" – a place which, more than once, has figured in local media as a scene of conflicts – was full of policemen.

In that bar, a few hours earlier, José Luís Bernal, had been stabbed to death, by men whom he did not know from before. The local police (policia local) was fast to arrive, but José Luís’ life could not be saved. The victim was only 33 years old and leaves behind two children and a wife, pregnant in the third month.

This Saturday, people of Vilanova came out to show their support to this family but also to protest against violence. I, unfortunately, could not make it to the manifestation but hope that many other foreigners took part. The fact that the people detained for this crime are all of South American origin creates a very sad parallel to the murder of Joel Rodríguez in Sitges this summer.

For whatever its worth, my thoughts are with José Luís Bernal’s family. At the same time I would want to remind everyone who - just like me - does not have Spanish citizenship that we live here as long-term guests. If we do not behave as such, there is a clear risk that we will not be welcome any longer.

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There is now a sign on the bar where this tragedy took place, informing us that its owners have decided to temporarily close it and change its profile. A correct decision but, unfortunately, made too late.

Referendums For the Right to Decide

2009-10-12T01:25:00.006+02:00

The referendum on Catalan independence, celebrated on September 13 in Arenys de Munt, stirred up an emotional debate throughout Spain. Now the discussion in media has calmed down, but in many municipalities preparations are being made for the next step, planned for December 13.

Vilanova i la Geltrú is one of the municipalities where the town council will not give support to a referendum. When the opposition party CUP proposed a motion, only Esquerra, the smallest party of the local tripartit government, and opposition CiU voted with them. The governing socialists (PSC) and their smaller partner ICV-EUiA could count on PP to join them in a ‘no’.

Judging from the election results on any given level (to the town council, to the parliaments of Catalonia and Spain, respectively, and that of the EU), that decision is perfectly representative for Vilanova i la Geltrú, where from 50% to 68% of the population vote for parties which, in the most extreme case, want a federal state (ICV-EUiA), status-quo (PSC) or a more united Spain (PP).

The fact that there is an obvious majority for a 'no' does not discourage a platform called VNG Decideix (“Vilanova i la Geltrú decides”) from planning a local referendum, possibly for December. It was founded on September 26 and is organised in three commissions: the first one has the task to spread the message, the second one to set up the infrastructure for the voting day and the third one is responsible for the contacts with the pan-Catalan referendum co-ordinators.

To make the platform as open as possible, its members join as citizens, not as representatives of any political party, and VNG Decideix is actively looking for more people, especially among those who will vote 'no'. That is a real challenge, since the strategy of the 'no'-parties is to ignore the issue and manifest their point of view through a low voter turn-out, not through active voting.

However, the commitment of this platform in Vilanova makes me feel that the Catalan referendum movement is, in fact, not about a 'yes' or a 'no' to sovereignty, but about a people’s democratic right to decide (dret a decidir). If not, why would so many independentistes invest time in this project in a town where they know that the best possible outcome is a massive 'no'?

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Technorati tags: Catalonia, CiU, Independence, Penedès, PSC, Spain, Vilanova

Naked Devils Dancing Under Fire

2009-10-11T10:24:00.006+02:00

Saturday, October 10, some 400 devils (diables) and dragons (dracs) from all around Catalonia came to the small town Llorenç del Penedès (Tarragona) to stage a protest agains new regulations by the European Union which restrict the use of fire in public places. These do not show any sensitivity to the pyrotechnical traditions like correfocs and ball de diables, key elements of a typical Catalan festa major.

The event started with a parade (cercavila) through the historic town centre, followed by joint performance. When devils perform they usually wear thick protective clothes, but this time some of them were totally naked, to underline that their fire is not dangerous.

The diables nudistes has received a lot of attention in Catalan media and let us now hope that also our European politicians take notice. While it is highly correct for the EU to harmonize rules on safety there must be some space for flexibility for folklore traditions as historical and appreciated as this one.

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Related Media: (SPA) LaVanguardia; (CAT) Avui, El Punt

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Technorati tags: Catalonia, Festa Major, Penedès

The Event Calendar - October 2009 - by Wirdheim.cat

2009-10-09T00:52:00.010+02:00

The Wirdheim.CAT Event Calendar has a focus on activities typical for the Catalan popular culture and is presented under the headlines Human Towers, Festa Major and Other Events.

General information can be found at the end of this entry.

Castells/Castellers (Human Towers) and Falcons

October 3: Reus (TGN). The “Mercadal Day of Human Towers”
Participants: Castellers de Vilafranca, Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls, Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls, Minyons de Terrassa, Xiquets de Reus

October 3: Vilanova i la Geltrú (BCN). The “Albert Salvany Day of Human Towers”.
Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova, Castellers d’Esparreguera, Xicots de Vilafranca.

October 3: Tarragona: The “Xiquets de Tarragona Day of Human Towers”.
Participants: Castellers de Lleida, Castellers de Terrassa, Xiquets de Tarragona.

October 4: Sarrià (city of Barcelona): The Festa Major of Sarrià.
Participants: Castellers de Barcelona, Nens del Vendrell, Sagals d’Osona.

October 4: Barcelona: The Autumn Festivity of Barcelona (Festa de tardor).
Participants: Capgrossos de Mataró, Castellers de Sants, Colla Jove de Sitges.

October 10: Súria (BCN ( ?)): The "Salats de Súria Day of Human Towers"
Participants: Castellers d’Altafulla, Colla La Global de Salou, Salats de Súria

October 10: Mallorca: The “Castellers de Mallorca Day of Human Towers”
Participants: Al·lots de Llevant, Castellers de Mallorca, Els Nens del Vendrell

October 10: Alcúdia (Valencia): The “Muixerangues Meeting of Alcúdia”
Participants: Castellers de Vila de Gràcia, Minyons de Terrassa

October 11, Alcanar (TGN ( ?)) : The “Quinquennals Festivity of Alcanar”
Participants: Colla Jove Xiquets de Tarragona

October 12: Les Corts (city of Barcelona): The Les Corts Day of Human Towers”
Participants: Capgrossos de Mataró, Castellers de Barcelona, Sagals d’Osona

October 17: Manlleu (BCN): A Day of Human Towers during the Festa Major.
Participants: Marrecs de Salt, Nyerros de la Plana, Tirallongues de Manresa,

October 18: At 13:00 in the Plaça Nova of Alcover (Tarragona): The Day of Human Towers of the Festa Major
Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova, Xiquets de Valls,

October 18: Romeria de Montserrat (BCN).
Participants: Castellers d’Esparraguera, Castellers de Vilafranca, Moixiganguers d’Igualada, Xicots de Vilafranca,

October 18: At 13:00 in the Plaça Vella of el Vendrell (TGN) ; the Human Towers of the Santa Teresa Trade Fair (Fira de Santa Teresa)
Participants: Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls, Colla Jove Xiquets de Tarragona, Els Nens del Vendrell,

October 18: the 7th Anniversary of the Castellers de la Sagrada Familia (City of Barcelona).
Participants: Castellers de Badalona, Castellers de la Sagrada Familia, Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia,

October 18: The Castellers de Sants Day of Human Towers (City of Barcelona).
Participants: Castellers de Lleida, Castellers de Sants, Minyons de Terrassa,

October 18: in the Plaça Major of Vic (BCN): A Day of Human Towers.
Participants: Castellers de Sabadell, Sagals d’Osona, Xics de Granollers

October 24: The Day of the Falcons of Vilanova (Vilanova i la Geltrú) - their last performance of the 2009 season. The performance parade starts at 18:00 in the plaça de les Cols and will head towards the Rambla principal. It will be followed by a comprehensive show once they reach plaça de la Vila (approximately at 19:00).
Participants: Falcons de Castellcir, Falcons de Vilanova

October 24: The Colla Jove de Sitges Day of Human Towers, at 18:00 in Sitges (BCN).
Participants: Castellers de Sants, Castellers de Vilafranca, Colla Jove de Castellers de Sitges,

October 24: The Sant Narcís Fair of Girona (City of Girona).
Participants: Capgrossos de Mataró, Marrecs de Salt, Minyons de Terrassa,

October 24: in the Plaça Vella of Terrassa (BCN): A Day of Human Towers.
Participants: Castellers de Sant Cugat, Minyons de Terrassa, Sagals d’Osona

October 25: in the Avinguda Mistral (city of Barcelona): A Day of Human Towers. Participants: Castellers de la Sagrada Familia, Castellers de Caldes de Montbui, Castellers del Poble Sec.

October 26: at 13:00 in the Plaça del Blat of Valls (TGN): The teams of Valls round off the season with a last Day of Human Towers.
Participants: Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls, Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls,

Festa Major - Town Festivities

October 15-18, el Vendrell (TGN): The Santa Teresa Trade Fair (Fira de Santa Teresa) - with a program full of folkculture.

October 21-26, Valls (TGN): Festa Major of Santa Úrsula.

Other events

October 10, Llorenç del Penedès: At 18:00, there will be a parade of devils (diables), dancing under fire, wearing only underpants, as a protest against the EU proposal to restrict the use of fire in public events, although that is a historically documented element in the Catalan festive tradition.

October 10-12, Sant Sadurní d'Anoia (BCN): CavaTast - the annual cava fair and festival.

October 12, Spain: Fiesta de la Hispanidad. A public holiday in the whole state, in Madrid celebrated with military parades.

October 15: Catalonia: The day when Lluís Companys is being commemorated. Early in the morning, the political parties Esquerra and Convergència/Casa Gran (CDC) pay respect at his grave on Montjuïc.

September 18: at 11:00 in the Plaça del Mercat of Vilanova i la Geltrú (BCN): Cursa popular – the annual running competition of the town.

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Yes, I know that I have included events which has already taken place by the time the first version of this post is published. The reason is for this is that I personally participated in the “Diada Albert Salvany”, celebrated on October 3 in Vilanova i la Geltrú, and cannot forgive myself for not having presented this entry on time.

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The Wirdheim.CAT Event Calendar is a summary of events where I will go, or at least could think of going, but can hopefully help other expats and tourists when they explore Catalonia. It is biased towards the Penedès area (including Sitges), but will also list manifestations of popular culture and other activities taking place in Barcelona, along the Costa Daurada and in the rest of the Catalan speaking world.

This entry will be up-dated whenever I learn about new things, since (compared to my native Sweden) here information about what will happen tends to come late. To the greatest extent possible will I link back to official pages (usually in Catalan) for information on time and locations but can not guarantee the correctness of the data presented.

Further information on castells/castellers (human tower) performances can be found under the tag ‘Properes Actuacions‘at the Coordinadora de les Colles Castelleres de Catalunya, or in the ‘Calendari’ at LaMalla.cat/castellers.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Costa Daurada, Expat, Human Towers, Penedès, Sitges, Vilafranca, Vilanova

Vilanova Commemorates the 1934 Catalan Republic

2009-10-06T01:32:00.003+02:00

It is not everyday we see the estalada – the flag for the independence of Catalonia – on the town hall of this solidly socialist (PSC) municipality. However, today attention was brought to the role of Vilanova i la Geltrú in the short lived Catalan republic, 75 years ago.

The Second Spanish Republic of those days was fragile and many people worried that conservative political forces would join the army and the church and attempt a coup. (Two years later, those groups united in the alzamiento nacional (national up-rising) and the start of the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) was a fact.) In 1934 that fear resulted in manifestations around Spain – called the October revolution (la Revolució d’Octubre) – but here in Vilanova, on October 4, the trade unions went further and pushed through that the estelada be hoisted on the town hall and an independent Catalan Republic be proclaimed. One day later, Lluís Companys did the same for the whole of Catalonia.

The Catalan independence of 1934 lasted only for two days in Barcelona, while in Vilanova troops of the Guardia Civil as well as the republican army needed five days to break the resistance. For that reason, the following repression was harsher here than elsewhere and hundreds of people – among them many representatives of the local government – were brought to court.

This is why almost all political parties had agreed to commemorate this day by again hanging the
estalada on the town hall balcony. The proposal to do so originally came from the CUP (Candidatura d’Unitat Popular – a political party active throughout Catalonia, but only on the municipal level). While I will have it hard to feel comfortable with their left-wing ideology, I share their vision about re-connecting politics with the local people and territory. With a limited number of members they manage to stir up an impressive amount of debate, so I am confident that I will have reason to come back to them.

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Source: Vilanova Digital

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Catalonia, Garraf, Independence, Penedès, PSC, Spain, Vilanova

First Day in a Proper Casteller Shirt

2009-10-05T01:03:00.004+02:00

Saturday, October 3, the human tower team Bordegassos de Vilanova for the third time celebrated its late leader (cap de colla) Albert Salvany (a personality on whom I commented shortly last year). This was an important day. For the colla (team), it was an opportunity to return to its established levels of difficulty, which had not been achieved during the last two weeks’ performances, in Valldoreix and Badalona, respectively. For me, this was my fifth performance as a member of the colla, but the first one in my adopted hometown and with my own casteller shirt, in the earthy yellow tone typical for the Bordegassos.

The performance (actuació) took place in the beautiful Plaça de les Cols and we had two visiting colles. The Xicots de Vilafranca (Alt Penedès) built the most advanced human towers: they crowned (carregar) and disassembled (descarregar) a '4 by 7' and a '3 by 7', both 'dismantled via a pillar' (4d7 amb l’agulla i 3d7 amb l’agulla) and then also a '4 de 7' which was “clean” (4d7 net), i.e. without a base (pinya) supporting the lowest two levels (baixos and segons). I formed part of the pinya, which was there, just in case, but which did not touch the construction.

The Castellers d’Esparreguera (Baix Llobregat) seemed very happy with their results: they crowned and dismantled a '4 by 7', a '3 by 7' and a '5 by 6' (4d7, 3d7 i 5d6).

Finally, we, the Bordegassos, started with a '5 by 7' (5d7). Already before this day, had I been in the pinya when a human tower has started to tremble and then collapsed, but what I will remember the most from the 2009 Diada d’Albert Salvany is an emotional experience of the opposite: how we, after the tower had been crowned and the dismantling had begun, felt strong vibrations and received warnings from the outer parts of the pinya that it would fall apart, but how there then was a mighty reaction - the power of a full group of people pressing their chests (pit) inwards – which helped to stabilize the structure. After that nervous opening, we followed up by crowning and dismantling a '4 by 7 dismantled via a pillar' (4d7 amb l’agulla) and a 4 by 7 (4d7).

My wife and children who had come to watch us went home at half time, and therefore missed how we rounded off with a pair of pillars of 5 levels. That was something which the Bordegassos had not accomplished for some time and yet another reason for us to be highly content. We have regained our confidence and it is time to take on new challenges.

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Garraf, Human Towers, Penedès, Vilafranca, Vilanova

On Having Passed the C-level Exam of the Catalan Language

2009-09-30T23:58:00.005+02:00

Last week I received an important letter from the Secretaria de Política Lingüística of the Generalitat. I knew that it would reveal the results of my 2009 C-level exam of the Catalan language (Certificat de nivell de suficiència de català - C), and it certainly felt like a victory to see the word apte (pass) next to my name. Now, some days later, I realize that the consequences go beyond that pass.

The registration process and test for the C-level exam is similar to that of level B, which I described last year. The big difference lies in what you can do with the diploma. The C-level does not seem overly attractive when you hear that it is equivalent of having completed the full primary school (ESO) course of Catalan in the modern version of the local school system. However, at the same time, the C-level is the established minimum requirement for most positions in the education and civil service of this autonomous community, and therefore coveted also by older Catalans and - even more - native speakers of Spanish who have moved here.

An example of this is a friend of mine who was born in the same year as I - but here and not in Sweden - and who has checked up which qualifications he needs to become a teacher in case he would lose his job as an engineer. The only thing he lacks is the C-level. This, in my eyes, feels odd since Catalan is his mother toungue, but it is a fact that local people as late as my generation suffer from the aftermath of the ban on using Catalan in schools, firmly in place during the Franco dictatorship. From the perspective of the language, that is nothing but a tragedy. However, for us foreigners, it is also an opportunity much too good to miss. How many other cultures offer newcomers the chance to, with a reasonable but not extreme effort, achieve a language certificate highly valued also by the local inhabitants? In that sense, my exam result confirms that I am not an outsider any longer.

It also stresses that I must not be ashamed of my broken Catalan. From now on, I must stop allowing people to switch to Spanish as soon as I make a mistake. True, my Spanish is still better, but I now have a formal proof that my Catalan is "sufficiently" good. It will not develop further unless I force myself to use it even when I talk about complicated matters. I am aware that more than once will this lead in funny situations where I persist in speaking Catalan to locals as determined to help by answering in Spanish. That fight is the price I will have to pay for proficiency and it is a duty I have to all students of Catalan on lower levels.

Passing the C-level exam will not be the beginning of the end of my Catalan studies. Rather the opposite - in a very refreshing way it marks the end of the beginning. And I feel more motivated than ever.

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Technorati tags: Catalan, Catalonia, Spain, Spanish, Vilanova, Wirdheim

The Grape Harvest Festival of Sitges

2009-09-26T22:43:00.012+02:00

If there are two things from the area where we live which are famous on the international level, they must be the idyllic beach resort Sitges, on the one hand, and the D.O. Penedès wines, on the other. They attract different kinds of tourists, but at least once a year they converge: the verema - the grape harvest festival - of Sitges.

In quantity, the coastal comarca Garraf certainly cannot compete with the wine production of the lush Penedès inlands, but especially the town Sant Pere de Ribes is surrounded by vineyards. In neighbouring Sitges, the tradition to celebrate the grape harvest during the third weekend of September is well established – this year saw the 48th edition - and adds yet another element in its hectic festive month between the main Festa Major of Sant Bartomeu, August 24, and the little Festa Major of Santa Tecla, September 23.

The focus of the verema is, in fact, to select the pubilla ('heiress') of the town and all social entities have the right to present a candidate, a girl between 16 and 22 years old. Apparently, it is knowledge about Sitges rather than beauty which determines who will be the winner.

The highlight of the festivity takes place on the Sunday afternoon – when the social entities challenge each other in a spectacular wine treading competition (concurs de trepitjadors de raïm). As soon as the judges have established which team is the winner – in 2009 the folk dancers from l'Associació de Balls Populars won with 22,5 litres – it is time for the pubilla to have her weight measured. This year, Ariadna Olimpia Font, from the Casino Prado, brought home 50 bottles.

For me, la Verema de Sitges was yet another occasion when I felt grateful for having moved to Catalonia. Next year I will bring the family and I will make sure to arrive before the scheduled start of the wine treading - the competition is much shorter than I had expected.

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Festes.org and Vilanova Digital were my main sources for this text.

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Technorati tags: Catalonia, Costa Daurada, Festa Major, Penedès, Sitges

Vilanova Invaded by Giants Carrying Clubs

2009-09-22T22:53:00.008+02:00

As a part of the celebrations of the 300th anniversary of the old giants of Vilanova, on Saturday September 19, we saw yet another spectacular parade through the town centre.

This time all male giants carried a club (porra). However, just like in the summer event – when age was the common denominator – the participants originated from all around Catalonia and, again, we had the chance to see giants whose maintenance protocols usually does not allow them to travel (i.e. els gegants de Valls and els gegants de Sanaüja).

Many of the giants with clubs are so called moros (Arabs), but some are Christians (notably Jaume I el conqueridor from Lleida), most are tall, but the gegantons de Solsona are children’s giants.

The clip shows how the Colla Gegantera of Vilanova – the organizers – enters the Rambla.

The giants of Valls

The giants of Lleida

The giants of Calella

In the clip we can, among others, see the giants of Calella and the children’s giants (gegantons infantils) of Solsona.

‘La Cu-cut’ from Plaça Nova in Barcelona.

Giants from Plaça Nova (Barcelona), Amer, Sanaüja and Manlleu.

The giants of Amer

The giants of Sanaüja

The giants of Manlleu - apparently Catalonia’s number one giant town (ciutat gegantera) 2010.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Catalonia, Penedès, Vilanova

Arenys de Munt – the First of Many Catalan Referendums

2009-09-18T19:04:00.003+02:00

Whether Catalonia is coming closer to becoming a sovereign state or not, is difficult to determine. September 13, a referendum took place in the municipality Arenys de Munt (Barcelona) and those who want independence won an overwhelming victory. Here is an attempt to map the background and outcome plus explain why I think that this initiative will have future consequences.

The Background

In June this year, the political party CUP of Arenys de Munt proposed to hold a local referendum on the Independence of Catalonia and received the support from all other parties represented in the town council, except for the Catalan socialists (PSC). Everybody understood that the idea would provoke reactions and in the last week before the voting date, did a Spanish court rule that the town council (ajuntament) must not be involved, since the question of the referendum was above the local decision making competence. To the surprise of some, the same court ruled that a demonstration against the referendum, planned by the extreme right-wing remnants of dictator Franco’s party, Falange, was perfectly legal.

As a solution, the poll was formally organized by a private entity, the 'Arenys Movement for Autodetermination' (Moviment Arenyenc per a l’Autodeterminació), but followed established voting protocols in the sense that all 6.515 registered (empadronats) inhabitants over 16 years of age were allowed to vote. The question was formulated as whether or not they “agreed that Catalonia becomes a state-of-law, independent, democratic and social and integrated in the European Union”.

The Result of the Referendum

The outcome was a highly encouraging for those who want to see Catalonia as a sovereign state. Of those who voted, 96% (2.569 people) voted yes, while 61 inhabitants voted no and 29 left blank votes. The voter turnout was not fantastic (41%), but on the same level as in many EU parliament elections.

Not surprisingly, the referendum received a lot of attention, not only in Catalonia and other parts of Spain, but also by international media.

Future Consequences of the Arenys Referendum

The referendum of Arenys de Munt has mobilized the Catalan independentistes in a way which I have not seen since we came here in 2005. This movement - or rather, these movements, since it (quite typical for Catalans, I think) is split into many factions - has agreed on December 13 as the day to hold referendums in as many municipalities as possible. What started in Catalan heartlands - the comarques Berguedà and Osona –has spread to a hundred municipalities and will grow further. Today, Barcelona “suburbs” like Gavà and big cities like Tarragona and Reus have announced their possible participation.

The Arenys referendum has also forced a lot of politicians to “come out of the closet”. In the name of social realities and more urgent priorities, these people usually avoid demanding independence, but for their own credibility, they will have to stand up for a “sí” if there is a vote.

Finally, many until now mainstream catalanistes – including members of the ruling socialist party (PSC) - reveal that they do not accept for the autonomy charter (l’Estatut) of Catalonia to be diluted, and that is exactly what is expected to happen when the Spanish Constitutional Court’s finally makes its verdict on it.

The text of the Estatut has been ratified democratically three times: by the Spanish parliament on the highest level, but before that by the Generalitat and subsequently through a referendum in Catalonia. If that is not enough, many Catalans will ask themselves if it makes sense to negotiate about autonomy with Madrid. Before the end of the year we will have a better picture how many prefer a more far-reaching solution.

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In the Penedès area, Vilafranca del Penedès and l’Arboç are among the municipalities which might hold referendums on December 13. Which will be the first socialist stronghold to do the same? Vilanova i la Geltrú?

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Up-date: Here is a September 20 article from El País which suggests that the independentism is now 'coming out of the closet' ("sale del armario").

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Find here the Wikipedia entries on the Arenys de Munt Referendum, in English and Catalan.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Catalonia, Estatut, Independence, Penedès, PSC, Spain, Vilafranca, Vilanova

Can Catalonia Hold a Referendum on Independence?

2009-09-18T19:03:00.002+02:00

Some English language sources have referred to the Arenys de Munt referendum as illegal. That is incorrect since, in the end, this poll was carried out by a private and not by a public entity.

What is true is that the existing Spanish constitution does not allow for autonomous regions like Catalonia or Euskadi (the Basque Country) to organize referendums on sovereignty and independence. The current autonomy charter (l’estatut) will grant Catalonia the right to arrange "consultations" (consultes populars), but the implementation of this document is, for now, blocked by the Spanish Constitutional Court.

In Arenys de Munt this issue was solved by letting a private initiative organize the event. However, already now can Catalan public entities, if desired, formally document the population’s opinion on a separate state; they only have to word the question so that it focuses on the road to independence, rather than on independence as such.

The Generalitat – the highest democratic institution of Catalonia – could ask the population: “Do you want to make the necessary amendments to laws and the constitution, in order for Catalonia to be an independent state of the EU?” In a municipality, the question could be: “Do you want for the town council to propose an amendment to the autonomy charter so that it establishes Catalonia as an independent state?”

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Technorati tags: Catalonia, Estatut, Independence

Francesc Macià - a Symbol Uniting Catalans

2009-09-10T10:58:00.006+02:00

September 11 is the National Day of Catalonia – la Diada - and, as always, the main celebration will take place in the park Ciutadella of Barcelona. This year, special respect will be paid to Francesc Macià with an official commemoration of his birth 150 years ago.

Francesc Macià i Llussà was born in 1859 in Vilanova i la Geltrú, but by the age of 15 he moved to Guadalajara to start military training. He reached the rank of Lieutenant Colonel before, in 1905, a grouping within the Spanish military attacked the print house of the Catalan magazines la Veu de Catalunya and Cucut over some caricatures. Macià was appalled when a court declared the perpetrators innocent and sided with his native Catalan culture, although that put an end to his career in the armed forces.

In 1907, he became a member of the Spanish parliament for the highly popular party Solidaritat Catalana (in 1907, it won 44 of the 47 seats available for Catalonia) and was re-elected six times, representing the small town les Borges Blanques (province of Lleida), from where his family of business people had its origins.

Spain during this period managed to stay neutral during WWI but was heavily marked by social unrest and debilitating wars in the colonies. In 1923, Primo de Rivera installed a military regime which received the support of the king, Alfonso XIII. Macià went into exile in Paris, via Perpignan, while the movement of catalan independentistes - Estat Català – which he had founded in 1922 – worked together with anarchists and communists to initiate an insurrection in Catalonia. Financial support was given by Catalans in South America but, in spite of many efforts, Macià never managed to convince Moscow to enter into the conflict.

In 1926, the Estat Català attempted an armed attack on Spain in what is called the 'complot of Prats de Molló'. It was stopped by French intervention, but the subsequent court trial turned into a media success which increased Macià’s popularity among Catalans. After that, Macià exiled himself in Belgium, Argentina and, finally, Cuba, from where he put together a constitution for what he wanted to see as a future, independent Republic of Catalonia.

When Primo de Rivera lost power in 1931, Macià returned to Catalonia, where his Estat Català became one of the founding forces of Esquerra Republicana de Catalunya. This new party won the municipal elections of that same year and Macià could claim the title as president of the Diputació de Barcelona. However, when he was greeted by the masses, he took the opportunity to at the same time announce the creation of a “Catalan republic within a federation of Iberian republics”. That was not liked by those who, on the same day but in Madrid, proclaimed the Second Spanish Rebublic, however the disagreement was solved through negotiations: the historical Generalitat was established as the highest political organ of Catalonia and it was agreed that the Catalans would be granted an autonomy charter (estatut).

The draft estatut - approved with large majorities first by the municipal councils of Catalonia and then by the electorate - defined Spain as a “voluntary federation”. However, in the text which was finally ratified by the parliament in Madrid, that had been changed to an “integral state compatible with municipal and regional autonomy”.

In that environment, Macià lead the provisional government of Catalonia to, after the 1932 elections, formally become the President of the Generalitat. In 1933, he died a natural death and Lluís Companys – co-founder of Esquerra Republicana – took over.

Macià always regretted that his fight had depended on the support of Spanish republicans and that he thereby did not achieve full independence for Catalonia. “Catalonia, poor Catalonia (Catalunya, pobre Catalunya)” are said to have been his last words. The funeral made the masses take to the streets - they loved Macià and called him grandfather (avi). Still today is he one of the strongest uniting symbols of the Catalan political culture.

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The Catalan flag, la Senyera, which will be hoisted in Ciutadella on Friday comes from the town hall of Vilanova i la Geltrú and it will be handed over by our mayor Joan Ignasi Elena (PSC) to acknowledge that Francesc Maciá was born here.

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During la Diada, there is a trade fair called the “Mostra d’Entitats” in the Passeig de Lluís Companys of Barcelona, where a large number of NGOs, companies and other entities related to Catalan culture take part. So will I this year.

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Sources: Wikipedia on Francesc Macià and on Alfonso XIII.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Catalonia, Estatut, Independence, Vilanova

Catalonia's Most Typical Festa Major

2009-09-04T19:55:00.007+02:00

Internationally, most people associate the Penedès with quality white wines, but this area is also famous for its strong popular culture. Nowhere is this more true than in Vilafranca del Penedès and especially during its Festa Major.

In 1699, the relics of the originally Italian martyr Felix of Girona were brought to Vilafranca and, after years of drought in the vineyards, it finally started to rain. Many elements nowadays associated with the town – the giants, the eagle, the devils and, above all, the dragon - trace back longer in history, but from 1776, when Sant Fèlix (Sant Feliu in other parts of Catalonia) was declared the new patron saint, the festa major celebrated to his honour follows the same structure.

Nowadays, the main sponsor of the event is the local government (ajuntament), but the vilafranquins as of tradition contribute directly as well through the so called capta. Historically, money used to be collected house by house, street by street.

On its first day, August 29, the festivity formally starts with bell ringing in all the churches, which in turn triggers the tronada - something an avarage Swede would describe as five minutes of unbearable noise, since one string of firecrackers after the other goes off along the rambla de la Nostra Senyora, but which is extremely appreciated here. As soon as the street has been cleared, the cultural teams (colles) start to move in the first performance parade (cercavila). Later in the evening, the same people take part in the first Sant Fèlix procession – l’entradeta - but this time they are followed by the statue of the Patron Saint, brought from the house of one of last year’s festa major organizers (l’administradors) to the Santa Maria church.

August 30 is the day of Sant Fèlix and starts with a solemn mass in the morning. Thereafter follows a commemoration at the monument of human tower builders (castellers) in the plaça de Jaume I. About noon, the focus switches to the plaça de la Vila, where a huge crowd of people sing the Catalan national anthem –els Segadors – and then see the castellers making their entry into the square in pillar formations. Only the four best ranked teams of Catalonia are allowed to take part in this high profile challenge and that usually means the Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls, the Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls, the Minyons de Terrassa and the Castellers de Vilafranca.

In the evening the same day follows a new Sant Fèlix procession (l’entrada). This time it makes a loop through the town but it is made up by the same cultural teams and, again, ends at the Santa Maria church, where all participants make a final joint performance - as intense as emotional. After that the saint is brought into the church and celebrated with a poetic elegy (goig).

August 31 is often called the’ day of the dances’ (dia dels balls), since – after another morning mass - there is a huge folk dance exhibition. Many of these dances can be found throughout the Penedès area, but Vilafranca has them all plus local specialties like the ball de figuetaires. An interesting detail is the fact that the ball de gitanes until 1999 used to be performed by real (roma) gypsies.

At the end of the show it is time for the Falcons de Vilafranca, in turn followed by more human towers – la diada de Sant Ramon - the chance for the Xicots de Vilafranca to, together with the Castellers de Vilafranca, show that also they are a team which easily reaches eight levels (colla de vuit), albeit not belonging to Catalonia's top four teams.

In the procession of this evening, the Sant Fèlix statue leaves the Santa Maria church and is paraded to the home of one of the current year’s administradors. During the year up to the next festa major, these will take turns keeping him in their houses.

The performance parade for children take place on September 1, when, after dark, there is also an opportunity to dance under fire in the ball de foc. On September 2, the festa major is symbolically rounded off with fireworks.

Vilafranca proudly claims to house the most typical festa major (la més típica) and most people agree that the conservation of its format, its rich and spectacular collection of monster animals (bestiari popular) and dances and, above all, the massive participation of the inhabitants makes it a model for the whole of Catalonia. This spring, it was voted one of the top 10 treasures of Catalonia’s and Andorra’s immaterial cultural heritage and it does, of course, form part of the Generalitat’s list of Festivities of National Interest.

Having started last year with the human towers of Sant Fèlix, this time I decided to try to capture as much Vilafranca atmosphere as possible – starting with the practice (assaig) by the Castellers de Vilafranca, followed by the cercavila, l’entradeta and, again, la Diada de Sant Fèlix. Although I am content, next year I will make sure not to miss l’Entrada, even if that means that I will have to fight for a restaurant table with all other people who are hungry after having watched castells for hours. That, I foresee, will not be my best memory from Vilafranca, but it does not matter. The more often I go here, the more often do I want to come back. Not only during the Festa Major.

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Find the official Festa Major de Vilafranca del Penedès web-page here. My other main source for this entry was this article at festes.org.

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Human Towers, Penedès, Vilafranca

A Generic Catalan Human Tower Calendar

2009-09-02T18:15:00.006+02:00

Here is a summary of some places and dates when you can see human towers (castells) in Catalonia. Find the background, sources and explanations to the calendar at the end of the entry.

April 23; Catalonia: the Day of Sant Jordi is when many teams (colles) make their first performance of the season.

The third week of May; Vilafranca del Penedès (BCN): During the ‘fairs of May’ (fires de maig).

June 24; Valls (TGN): Part of the Sant Joan celebrations.

First week of July; Terrassa (BCN): During the Festa Major.

Third Sunday of July; Mataró (BCN): During the celebrations of Les Santes.

July 26, el Vendrell (TGN): During the Festa Major.

Early August; Vilanova i la Geltrú (BCN): During the Festa Major.

August 15; la Bisbal (TGN): Part of the Mare de Déu d’Agost celebrations.

August 19; City of Tarragona: Part of the Sant Magí celebrations.

Last Sunday of August; l’Arboç (TGN): During the Festa Major.

August 30; In the plaça de la Vila of Vilafranca del Penedès (BCN): the Day of Sant Fèlix – Catalonias most prestigious human tower day with top teams from the whole of Catalonia.

August 31; Vilafranca del Penedès (BCN): a human tower day with the two local teams.

September 11; Catalonia: Some teams make exhibitions to celebrate the National Day of Catalonia (la Diada).

September 23; in front of the cathedral of Tarragona: the Day of Santa Tecla where you can see the ‘walking pillars’.

The Sunday closest to September 24; In the plaça de Sant Jaume I of Barcelona: the Day of la Mercè.

First Sunday of October, but only in even years; In the plaça de Braus of Tarragona: the human tower competition Concurs de Castells.

Mid-October; el Vendrell (TGN): Part of the Santa Teresa Fair.

Late October; City of Girona: Part of the ‘Girona fair’.

Third Sunday of October; Valls (TGN): During the Festa Major de Santa Ursula. Valls is the origin of the Catalan human tower tradition.

November 1; Vilafranca del Penedès (BCN); During the Tots Sants Day.

Third Sunday of November; Terrassa (BCN): The Day of the Minyons de Terrassa.

Fourth Sunday of November: Vilanova i la Geltrú (BCN): The Day of the Bordegassos de Vilanova.

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Sources, background, advice and explanations:

The inspiration and main source to this calendar comes from El Fet Casteller by la Fura, but is up-dated with my own findings.

During our first years in Catalonia, I considered it very difficult to in advance find out where I would be able to see a performance of human towers (castells) and regularly missed events taking place in our neighbour towns. This is largely a problem for newcomers like tourists and expats, since the Catalans themselves know that almost all human tower days (diades castelleres) form part of the festa major celebrations and therefore come back about the same date, year after year. This generic calendar does not does not provide you with exact details on when, where and by whom there will be a performance but can hopefully help you to circle in which days and towns are of interest.

If the event you want to see takes place in the area stretching from Barcelona via the Penedès to Tarragona, you might be able to find more details in the ‘Event Calendars by Wirdheim.cat’. Alternatively you might find out more in the web-page of the town hall (ajuntament) of the town where the exhibition will take place.

Most human tower exhibitions take place outside the centre of Barcelona, but can easily be reached by car or commuter trains (Renfe Rodalies). BCN means the province of Barcelona and TGN the province of Tarragona.

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Human Towers, Penedès

State of the Art Human Towers at Sant Fèlix in Vilafranca

2009-09-02T00:45:00.005+02:00

Sunday, August 30, was the Day of Sant Fèlix, the main exhibition of human towers during the festa major of Vilafranca del Penedès. This annual event draws a lot of spectators – this time as many as 15.000 people – since you are guaranteed to see the best castells of the season. The four teams (colles) which are invited to participate always have a solid record of building constructions with 9 levels (colles de nou) and this is the day and place when they give their best. Only the bi-annual Concurs de Castells in Tarragona is more prestigious in that sense.

The strong tradition of this day of human towers (diada castellera) can, in fact, be said to have rescued this art from disappearing. Historically, castells were very popular in the area from Tarragona to the Penedès, but in the late 19th century the masses started to prefer new social activities like sardana dancing (!) and sports. That resulted in a major decline, usually called the decadence (decadença), which lasted for some 50 years and lead to a reduction of levels in the towers built from nine to seven. During this period, the Vilafranquins were many times the only people in Catalonia who contracted castellers for their festa major and also actively helped to build them. This served as a motivation for the classic teams from Valls not to give up their skills. With that in mind, I clearly think that the plaça de la Vila here deserves its epithet as the "number one human tower square" ("la plaça més castellera").

This year especially the green coloured local team always made use of its right to try again when a tower collapsed and that made the program quite long (more than 4 hours). More than once did the audience – many of whom themselves practising castellers, judging from their t-shirts – whistle when the time for preparation felt exaggerated. Now, perfection has its price and we must not complain since in return we were received proofs of bravery and commitment in many impressive attempts to, completed or even successfully dismantled human towers, five of which from the highest category (la gamma extra).

The Castellers de Vilafranca opened the day with the – for them – consolidated 4 de 9 amb l’agulla (9 levels, 4 people per level and dismantled via a pillar) and made a breath taking attempt (intent) to build to build a 3 de 10 (10 levels, 3 people per level) in the second round. The Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls completed (carregat) their emblematic 5 de 9 amb folre (9 levels, 5 people per level) and then the Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls completed and dismantled (descarregat) a pillar of 8 levels (pilar de 8). The final attempt to a castell with an equivalent difficulty was an attempt by Vilafranca to build a 3 de 9 amb l’agulla.

Except for this, we were presented two torres de 9 (9 levels, 2 people per level) first by the Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls and then by the Castellers de Vilafranca – both completed and dismantled (descarregats). The fourth participating team – the Minyons de Terrassa – had to make do with a 3 de 9 and a 4 de 9 as their best achievements of the day – a disappointment for them but at the same time totally beyond reach for most other colles castelleres.

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N.B: On August 31 – in a local human tower exhibition together with the Xicots de Vilafranca - the Castellers of Vilafranca managed to complete and dismantle the 3 de 9 amb l’agulla. That has never been done before.

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Human Towers, Penedès, Vilafranca

Sunday August 30, Vilafranca is the Place to Be

2009-08-27T10:17:00.010+02:00

Coming Sunday, August 30, at 12:30 the Castellers de Vilafranca (in green shirts), the Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls (soft red), the Colla Joves Xiquets de Valls (red) and the Minyons de Terrassa (purple) will enter the plaça de la Vila of Vilafranca del Penedès in pillar formations. These are the top four human tower teams as of their 2009 results and they come here for the Diada de Sant Fèlix to enjoy themselves, but also to challenge each other.

Some people consider the vilafranquins pretentious when they claim that they have the "number one human tower square" of Catalonia (“la plaça més castellera”). Other people stress that building castells is a social activity, where you are not supposed to be competitive and, therefore, cannot say that a certain team (colla) is the best. I do not belong to either of these groups.

This year, the hosts have raised the bar by repeatedly communicating that they will make an attempt on a human tower of 10 levels and judging from how easily they assembled a “3 de 9” during their practice (assaig) yesterday, this is clearly within reach. Last year we did not see any constructions this high. Now, the outcome of the 2008 Human Tower Championship (Concurs de Castells) and the current ranking give at hand that “els Verds” are in the best shape to accomplish it. So, let us not be jealous but wish them all the best and, on Sunday, go to Vilafranca and scream ourselves hoarse when they make it!

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Practical information: This event attracts a huge amount of visitors so do not enter the town centre, but make do with parking in the outskirts. Alternatively come here with the train Renfe Rodalies C4 - it takes less than an hour from Barcelona Sants. If you bring a child in a push chair, avoid the middle of the square since you will be locked in by the other spectators as soon as the performance starts.

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Find the program of the Festa Major of Vilafranca del Penedès here. The full version is in Catalan, but there is a "Town Festivity - short guide" in English. By the way, take note that vilafranquins have registered both festamajor.cat and festamajor.info as theirs. Sitges was probably only minutes away, but obivously too late. And in Vilanova we are a bit sulky, because again and again we realize that our neighbours are smarter than we are.

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Technorati tags: Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Human Towers, Penedès, Vilafranca

The Event Calendar - September 2009 - by Wirdheim.cat

2009-08-26T13:59:00.017+02:00

The Wirdheim.CAT Event Calendar has a focus on activities typical for the Catalan popular culture and is presented under the headlines Human Towers, Festa Major, Other Events and Exhibitions. General information can be found at the end of this entry.

Castells/Castellers (Human Towers) and Falcons

September 5: Olot. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera) in the Plaça del Dr. Fleming
Participants: Castellers de Terrassa, Sagals d’Osona, Xerrics d’Olot.

September 6: Rubí. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova, Castellers de Cerdanyola, Castellers de Rubí.

September 10: Vic. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Sagals d’Osona.

September 11: Badalona. At 12:00, a National Day of Catalonia (la Diada) performance.
Participants: Castellers de Barcelona, Castellers de Sabadell, Xicots de Vilafranca.

September 11: Barcelona. A National Day of Catalonia (la Diada) performance in the Plaça del Setge de Barcelona
Participants: Castellers del Poble Sec.

September 11: Rubí. A National Day of Catalonia (la Diada) performance.
Participants: Castellers de Rubí.

September 13: Mollet del Vallès. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Castellers de Mollet, Castellers de Rubí.

September 13: Terrassa. At 12:30, a Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Nens del Vendrell, Castellers de Terrassa, Xiquets de Reus.

September 20: Barcelona. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Castellers de la Sagrada Família, Castellers del Poble Sec.

September 20: Valldoreix. At 11:30 in the plaça Casal de Cultura (Jornada Castellera de la Festa Major). Participants: Bordegassos de Vilanova and Castellers de Sant Cugat.

September 20: Vic. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Castellers de Lleida, Marrecs de Salt, Sagals d’Osona, Tirallongues de Manresa.

September 23: Tarragona: The Santa Tecla Day celebrated with "walking pillars" (pilars caminants).
Participants: Xiquets de Tarragona, Colla Jove Xiquets de Tarragona, Xiquets del Serallo, Colla Castellera de Sant Pere i Sant Pau.

September 24: Barcelona. The Annual Meeting of Barcelona’s Human Tower teams (trobada castellera de colles de Barcelona).
Participants: Castellers de Barcelona, Castellers de la Sagrada Família, Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, Castellers de Sants, Castellers del Poble Sec.

September 26: Calldetenes. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Sagals d’Osona.

September 27: Hospitalet de Llobregat. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Castellers de Mollet, Castellers de Rubí and Colla Jove de l’Hospitalet.

September 27: Roda de Ter. A Day of Human Towers (Jornada Castellera).
Participants: Colla castellera Nyerros de la Plana and Sagals d’Osona.

Festa Major - Town Festitivities

September 13-24 (culminating at the end): Tarragona, Festa Major de Santa Tecla
The official program in Catalan can be found here and a festa major glossary here.

September 19-27: Sitges, Festa Major Petita de Santa Tecla. Find some more information here, but also in the 'Agenda of Sitges'. The top event will be a 'Moixiganga meeting' (a dance developed from religious processions) by teams from Badalona, Lleida and Sitges, in the Sant Bartomeu church, Saturday Sep 19, at 22:00.

September 23-27: Barcelona, Festa Major de la Mercè
The official program in Catalan can be found here.

September 25: Reus: Festes de la Misericòrdia.

Other events

September 11, Catalonia: La Diada – the National Day of Catalonia. The main celebration takes place at 11:30 in the Ciutadella park of Barcelona. In Vilanova i la Geltrú, this year's commemoration will be in the Rambla de la Pau at 19:00.

September 18-20: Sitges celebrates its grape harvest festivity – la Festa de la Verema. Find more information (in Catalan) here. Sunday, September 20, at 18:00 there is a grape treading competition.

September 19: Vilanova i la Geltrú: At 18:00, Giants carrying fighting clubs (porra) from all around Catalonia, paraded through the town.

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The Wirdheim.CAT Event Calendar is a summary of events where I will go, or at least could think of going, but can hopefully help other expats and tourists when they explore Catalonia. It is biased towards the Penedès area (including Sitges), but will also list manifestations of popular culture and other activities taking place in Barcelona, along the Costa Daurada and in the rest of the Catalan speaking world.

This entry will be up-dated whenever I learn about new things, since, compared to my native Sweden, here information about what will happen tends to come late. To the greatest extent possible will I link back to official pages (usually in Catalan) for information on time and locations but can not guarantee the correctness of the data presented.

Further information on castells/castellers (human tower) performances can be found under the tag ‘Properes Actuacions‘at the Coordinadora de les Colles Castelleres de Catalunya, or in the ‘Calendari’ at LaMalla.cat/castellers.

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Technorati tags: Barcelona, Castellers, Catalonia, Festa Major, Costa Daurada, Expat, Human Towers, Penedès, Sitges, Vilafranca, Vilanova,

The Sitges Procession in Honour of Sant Bartomeu

2009-08-26T01:05:00.011+02:00

Foreigners tend to know Sitges as a international and posh tourist resort, especially popular among gay men, but this is a town of many dimensions. Sitges is also a very cultural town, careful to preserve its old Catalan traditions. Never is this aspect as obvious as during the Festa Major de Sant Bartomeu, a festivity which culminates on August 23-24 every year.

This festa major is celebrated with an impressive intensity and high participation and it is the only one of the comarca (county) Garraf which, since 1991, can be found on the Generalitat’s list of Traditional Festivities of National (i.e. Catalan) Interest. Most of the elements and the order of events has remained more or less unchanged for the last 150 years. The giants, what I assume is a dragon (tarasca) and the dances are mentioned in written sources from 1814 and from 1853 there is documentation of the devils, the stick dancers (bastoners), the gypsy dance (ball de gitanes), the flower garland dance (ball de cercolets) and the now lost so called ball de Sant Bartolomeu.

After some days of vacation in folk culture poor Sweden, I was happy to be able to see at least the final procession (processó en honor a sant Bartomeu), even more so since my wife went with me. Already before had I heard that the festa major parades of most Penedès towns bear a strong resemblance, but still I was surprised. This was very similar to what we are used to from Vilanova i la Geltrú.

Among the differences, I find it worth point out that the old giants of Sitges (gegants vells) are accompanied by two quite funny couples: first the small americanos Panchito and Panchito (he apparently always carrying the latest issue of the local newspaper l’Eco de Sitges) and then the tall gegants moros (the Arabs) Faluch and Laia.

The religious element is also more present here, on the one hand since a figure of the Patron Saint sant Bartomeu is being carried in front of the local politicians and dignitaries, and on the other hand, thanks to the moixiganga - a dance which tells the story about the life of Christ and for which Sitges is famous. Visca la Festa Major de Sitges!

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On September 23 -i.e. only a month after the big one - Sitges celebrates its Festa Major Petita of Sant Tecla.

Read more in Catalan about the Festa Major de Sant Bartomeu here.

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Technorati tags: Catalonia, Festa Major, Costa Daurada, Penedès, Sitges

Cercavila de l'Imaginari - Legends and Stories from Vilanova i la Geltrú

2009-08-23T23:47:00.003+02:00

On the last day of the local Festa Major, some 200 children from Vilanova i la Geltrú take part in a performance parade called la Cercavila de l’Imaginari. It consists of eight dances which tell and illustrate the following legends or true stories (click on the names of the dances to see the corresponding YouTube clips):

The Founding of the New Town (la fundació de la Vila Nova): Vilanova was founded by people from la Geltrú who did not like the feudal lord (played by a giant) and therefore built a new town (Vilanova, of course, means the “new town”) on the other side of the river. In 1274, it was acknowledged a town by king James I (Jaume I, the other giant).

Miralpeix: Legend has it that the Christians fooled the Saracens (saraïns) to leave a strategic castle here by drawing their attention to a huge fish (mira el peix means ‘look at the fish’).

The Fishermen (els Pescadors): This dance is a celebration to the role the fishing port has always played for this town.

The moon in a basket (la lluna en un cove): Vilanovins are said to be llunàtic;-moon crazy or, at least, overly stubborn. This is the legend about a boy who could not stop trying to catch the reflection of the moon in a basket.

The Caves of Ribes (les coves de Ribes): Legend has it that a huge snake kept a treasure in one of the caves of Ribes, and that all riders who tried to recuperate it were petrified after looking into its eyes. In the parade, instead of spitting fire this snake spits water.

The arrival of the railway (l’arribada del ferrocarril): Historically, people from here took their produce to Barcelona either by boat or via Vilafranca. This dance reminds us that only in 1881 did Vilanova really start to develop after local investor Gumà i Ferran had financed the construction of railway tunnels through the mountains of Garraf.

The Grapevine (el cep): This is a maypole dance about the vintage. The festa major of Vilanova is celebrated in honour of the Patron Saint Virgin Mary (la Mare de Deu de les Neus) who, in the 18th century, is said to have intervened when hailstorms year after year destroyed the harvest.

The Waterwheel (la Sínia): A celebration of agriculture where the rings of the dance has its inspiration in the movement of waterwheels.

Read more about the Cercavila de l'Imaginari in English on this blog and on the official web-page in Catalan and Spanish.

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Technorati tags: Catalonia, Festa Major, Penedès, Vilanova