Western Appliance Repair of Boise

Washer Repair - Boise Appliance Repair

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 03:34:00 +0000

Washer and Washing Machine History
Washing machines developed to reduce the hardship of the hand-washing process by using a sealed tub with paddles or fingers to agitate the clothing. The first machines were hand-operated. Electricity was not available to every household until around 1930.
Water often had to be toted, heated on a fire for washing, and then poured into the tub. This warm soapy water was precious and would be reused again, first to wash the least soiled clothing, then to wash dirtier laundry. The earliest machine tubs were made from wood, later machines that were made of metal allowed a fire to burn below the washtub.

Read the full article and more Boise Appliance Repair tips at Western Appliance Repair of Boise

Dryer Repair Tips By Rich Caldwell At Isnare.com Ezine Articles

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:53:00 +0000

Dryer Repair Tips By Rich Caldwell At Isnare.com Ezine Articles

Appliance Repair Boise | New Google Plus Page

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 02:25:00 +0000

Folks, I have started a new page on Google. I will be providing appliance repair tips to the homeowner to assist them in repairing their own appliances. Visit page here: Appliance Repair

Appliance Repair Boise | Article Audio

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 04:22:00 +0000

When listening to a story or an important event, it opens up a very different perspective. That's why I've created an audio file of my first article. Enjoy Folks, and be sure to visit my website when you get a chance. Please see my audio link at appliance repair boise

Washer Transmission System | Appliance Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Thu, 01 Dec 2011 02:19:00 +0000

Top Load Washing Machine Transmission System | Appliance Repair Boise
The components of the mechanical systems of an automatic washer include the cabinet, suspension, spin-basket drive, and braking mechanism, as well as the gear case. These are the components that most often determine the useful life of the washer. In most top-load washers, the transmission is removable from the washer as one whole assembly. Repair to transmission is generally limited to the correction of a whine or knock in the unit, leaks in the seal or gasket, the removal of drain water from the case which has entered through a faulty seal or broken casting. If service on the transmission is necessary because of a knock, it can be located before the assembly is taken from the washer. To do this, fill the washer with a full load of clothes or restrict movement of the agitator drive block by placing a load on it by hand or with a wrench. If the knock diminishes or disappears, the indication is that the gears are loose. If, under the foregoing test the knock becomes louder, one or more of the links, pins, or connections have become worn or marred by the defective part.
If the transmission is filled with water through failure of an upper seal, there will be evidence of oil in the spin basket due to the water which has entered the transmission and displaced the original oil charge. If the transmission loses oil through a broken seal or gasket, there will be evidence of oil on the base, on the floor under the washer, or on the various parts of the drive mechanism. In any case where service is required on the transmission parts within the case, the transmission must be removed from the washer and taken to the shop for repair. Service to the agitator drive block, upper seal, agitator post, upper spin-basket drive tube support housing, housing seal, or castings can usually be performed without removing the transmission from the washer; however, both the spin basket and the outer tube must usually be removed for access to the lower tub support parts.

GE Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 03:11:00 +0000

At Western Appliance Repair Boise we provide professional GE appliance repair service and expertise you should expect. Our electronic field engineers are fully trained and have degrees in electronics. We can work on any of the newer and older GE Ovens, Front Load Washers, Dryers, Refrigerators, and Dishwashers in the Boise area. In contrast to many other repair companies in the Boise area our training and education combined with our electronic troubleshooting skills, factory GE support, and customer service will get your GE appliances repaired and running in very short time. Results are guaranteed.

GE Refrigerator Repair:
1. Fresh Food section is freezing food.
2. Refrigerator Dispensor intermittent or not dispensing ice or water.
3. Frost buildup in your freezer section.
4. Icicles in your freezer and auger motor has jammed up.
5. Ice cream is getting soft
6. Compressor will not run
GE Washer Repair:
1. Washer clothes still coming out wet after the spin cycle has completed.
2. Washer will not drain fully and water is left inside the basket after a washer load has completed.
3. The washer fills with water then control panel shuts down.
4. Loud grinding sound during the spin cycle.
5. Excessive vibration or loud noise during the washer spin cycle.
6. Water leaks during the agitate, spin, or fill cycle.
GE Dryer Repair:
1. Clothes still wet after dryer cycle has completed.
2. Squeeling or loud screeching sound during the dryer tumble cycle.
3. Excessive heat or burning of the clothes during timed or automatic dry mode.
4. Dryer tumbler will not move when start button is pressed.
GE Dishwasher Repair:
1. Dishwasher will not drain water fully.
2. Loud noises during the wash or drain cycle.
3. Dishes still wet after dishwasher has completed it's cycle.
4. Dishwasher continues to run after cycle is run.

GE Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 03:41:00 +0000

Washer Temp Switches | Western Appliance Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sat, 13 Aug 2011 00:26:00 +0000

Water temperature switchens:
While some automatic washers, such as whirlpool, kenmore, ge, and maytag washers, are equipped with a water mixing inlet valves, many washers use a water temperature control switch with the valve. The two basic types of water temp switches are the rotoary and push-button types.

The water temperature options available on washers and washing machines equipped with rotary-type switches will vary according to your brand of washing machine brand or model. Some brands use rotary switches which offer a combination of three selections of hot, warm, and cold for both the wash and rinse temperatures. Other models use rotoary swiches which offer a combination of five selections of hot, warm, and cold for both the wash and rinse cycles.

Some rotary switches give the option of three selections of hot, warm, and cold for both wash and rinse temperatures. When only the upper switch contact is closed, the hot water solenoid will be engergized. When only the lower switch contact is energized, the cold water is energized. Whe switch contacts are closed, both the hot and cold water solenoids will be energized, and warm water will result.

Many rotary switch provides a combination of five selections of hot, warm, and cold water for both the wash and rinse water temperatures. If functions in the same manner as the three-selection rotary switch. The difference lies in the additional contact, which provides more wash and rinse water selections.

You can reach Western Appliance Repair of Boise via email or phone. 208-863-3702

Ideal Water for a Dishwasher Appliance Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Wed, 08 Jun 2011 04:02:00 +0000

Very soft water can cause problems in dishwashing that are quite different from the problems caused by very hard water. the ideal water fro dishwashing would be that which contained enough calcium and magnesium to prevent water from becoming alkaline when heated, but not more hardness mineral than could be controlled with normal dishwashing procedures. To narrow it down further, this ideal water would be in a hardness ranbge of 3 to 5 grains per gallon, which is the higher end of the soft water category and the low end of the medium hard-water category. Much of the water in the US is within the normal range of 3 to 5 grains per gallon.
Boise's hard water map is available for evaluation.

Just another tip from Western Appliance Repair Boise.
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236 Boise, Idaho 83713
208-863-3702

Stuff

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Thu, 26 May 2011 04:28:00 +0000

HyperSmash

Refrigerator Icemaker Operation by Western Appliance Repair of Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Thu, 05 May 2011 02:42:00 +0000

Most refrigerator icemakers perform the following functions.

Water Valve Switching - When certain conditions are met, a switch is closed in the icemaker head which allows AC current to flow to the icemaker "fill" water valve, which is located in the bottom, rear area of refrigerator.

Temperature Monitoring - When the inside temperature of the freezer reaches 15 F the icemaker switches the water valve "on" to allow water flow to fill the ice tray. If there is ice in the tray, 15F will not be reached since the ice temperature will keep the icemaker thermistor at roughly 32F and a harvest cycle may be triggered instead.

Heater - When the temperature holds at the 32F range for a period of time a harvest mode is triggered. A heater will activate and heat the bottom of the ice tray. The icemaker fingers will start to rotate to remove and drop ice cubes from the tray. At the end of the harvest cycle the water valve will turn "on" for approximately 8 seconds to fill the tray.

You may recognize the hard-tray type of icemaker by the shape of the cube it puts out. The hard-tray Whirlpool and Kenmore icemakers produces half-moon shaped cubes. The flex-tray produces rounded rectangular cubes. The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit. The flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work. The hard-tray is operated with a timer and is the most common refrigerator icemaker arrangement.

This most common icemaker, the hard-tray uses an integrated timer which is located in the icemaker head. Whether the compressor is running or not the icemaker motor has voltage applied to it. You cannot advance the icemaker like you can advance a defrost timer but on most models you can access the test points to put into harvest mode. You can also bypass the integrated thermistor to trick the icemaker into a harvest cycle and also test the water valve functionality.

To remove, unplug the refrigerator power cord. Obtain a shop light and extension cord to give yourself enough light to see what you are doing. Remove three hex head screws with a hex driver. Two are located along the top of the icemaker and one is on the bottom. The screws will secure the icemaker to the inside side wall of the refrigerator. When the icemaker is loosened, carefully disconnect the power connector and slide the icemaker carefully from the water tube.

When reinstalling the module be very careful to secure it to the side-wall with the water tube securely orientated so that water flows directly into the ice tray without spillage. Carefully inspect when finished. Re secure the power connector and reinstall the plastic cover if necessary.

For more information on this article and others, please visit http://www.westernappliancerepairboise.com. We offer washer repair, dryer repair, dishwasher repair, refrigerator, and oven repair. We are located at 13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236 Boise, Idaho 83713
208-863-3702

Refrigerator Temp Regulation | Western Appliance Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Fri, 01 Apr 2011 01:28:00 +0000

http://www.westernappliancerepairboise.com

Air Temperature Regulation of Refrigerators
As the food inside your refrigerator gets colder and colder it radiates less heat to the air inside the refrigerator. The air temperature inside the refrigerator will remain colder as this process occurs. To regulate the temperature inside most refrigerators and freezers either a thermostat is used or a thermistor/control board combination.

Thermostat Operation
A thermostat called a cold-control will cycle the compressor on and off to keep the temperature inside the refrigerator within a specified range. Typical average temperature settings of most refrigerators will be around 45 F. You can always adjust the fresh-food temperature setting by turning the dials on the cold control. Most cold-controls on Whirlpool, Maytag, Whirlpool, and GE refrigerators are located in the fresh-food side of the refrigerator, top and front near the interior light.
Thermistor/Control Board
A thermistor is an electrical device which changes resistance when a change in temperature occurs. Thermistors are typically mounted on the inside walls of the fresh-food compartment, and also the freezer compartment. The thermistor is connected electrically to the control board circuit. The firmware in the control board is designed so that resistance of the thermistor will correspond to a given temperature and will adjust fan speed, fresh-food damper door, and compressor operation to achieve the set temperature.
On most Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and GE refrigerators all the cold air for both the fresh-food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced by one evaporator, which is located behind the rear interior panel of the freezer compartment. Since the freezer air is so much colder than the fresh-food compartment, it is easy to see why it is logical to use this one evaporator to provide the necessary cold air for both the freezer and fresh-food compartments of most refrigerators.
Most of the cold air that is produced by the freezer/refrigerator evaporator circulates in the freezer compartment by the evaporator fan. The evaporator fan also circulates air to the icemaker and through the damper door to provide cold air to the refrigerator. Most of the damper door assemblies are located in the rear-top-left of the fresh food compartment. Only a small amount of cold air needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature so the damper door will close when the proper temperature is reached. The control for this damper door is the other of the two dials within your refrigerator cold control or is adjusted via control board user interface.
For all your appliance repair boise needs, whether it be in Boise or in the surrounding cities such as Meridian, Eagle, or Star, give us at Western Appliance of Boise a call. 208-863-3702

13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236 Boise, Idaho 83713

Dryer Thermostat Operation | Western Appliance Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sun, 20 Mar 2011 02:12:00 +0000

There are two types of thermostats used on most Whirlpool, Kenmore, GE, and Maytag electric and gas dryers - Fixed and Adjustable. These two types have three basic applications in a dryer - as operating or cycling thermostats, safety thermostats, and cool-down thermostats.

An operating or cycling (bias) thermostat is used to control the air temperature in the dryer. A single fixed thermostat, several switch-selected fixed thermostats, or an adjustable thermostat may be in control. These thermostats are located in the exhaust airstream of the dryer and have normally closed contracts. The contacts open with temperature rise and control the electrical current to the gas burner or electric-heat-element circuitry. In some applications a second, normally open, contact is used to control timer operation.

Safety thermostats are employed to prevent excessive temperatures within the dryer. Dryer safety thermostats, or thermal fuses, are always fixed, or the non-adjustable type. They are located at strategic locations in the burner area, heater element housing, or fan-scroll housing, depending on the design of the dryer model. In most, if not all dryer applications, thermal fuses and safety thermostats have normally closed contacts that open the circuit and prevent electrical current to the heat source in the event that some failure or an abnormal rise in temperature. Some of the earlier dryer safety thermostats used with some manual ignition burners had normally-open contacts that close and energize an unlatching solenoid.

Cool-down thermostats are used to provide motor operation during the cool-down on many Whirlpool and Maytag Dryer designs. These thermostats have normally-open contacts that close during the heat phase of the cycle. At the end of that phase, the timer or relay contacts are opened and the dryer continues to run without heat. When exhaust temperatures drop to approximately 120F, the contacts open to end the cycle.

For more dryer repair information and other appliance repair topics please visit Western Appliance Repair Boise We repair washers, dryers, dishwashers, ovens, refrigerators, and more. We service Maytag, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Ge, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Sears, and most brand appliances in Boise and Eagle Idaho. Please see Dryer Repair Boise for more information - Western Appliance Repair of Boise Idaho 208-863-3702
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236 Boise, Idaho 83713

Appliance Repair Boise | Refrigerator Maint Video

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sun, 27 Feb 2011 23:26:00 +0000

Appliance Repair Boise | Dryer Operation

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 01:35:00 +0000

http://www.westernappliancerepairboise.com
Automatic clothes dryers consist of a motor driven revolving basket, an electric heating element or gas flame, thermostats, and a timer. Some models also have a selector switch. Air, heated by the electric element or gas flame, is forced through the tumbling clothes by a fan. The fan is driven by the drive motor. The temperature of the heated air, entering and leaving the basket, is controlled by thermostats which maintain a balance between the air velocity, air volume, and air temperature. The temperature of the exhaust air is a measure of the dryness of the clothes.
After the dryer is started and loaded with damp articles, the temperature inside the basket will rise rapidly. When the temperature reaches approximately 130F, the evaporation of the moisture in the load will absorb the heat as rapidly as the heat is generated by the heater. The temperature will not rise appreciably above 130F until the load is nearly dry.
When the load is nearly dry, there will not be enough moisture in the clothes to absorb the heat, and the basket and clothing temperatures will rise. This heat rise will continue until the discharge air reaches approximately 160F. At this point the heater circuit is disconnected by a thermostat. The dryer basket will continue to revolve in what is called the overrun period, and cool, fresh air will enter the basket to cool the clothes for handling. The overrun time may last from 3 to 10 min and is controlled by either the timer or an overrun thermostat which will stop the dryer.
Modern dryers of today, Maytag, Kenmore, GE, Whirlpool, Frigidaire, have a moisture sensor which relays moisture conditions inside the dryer to a control board which controls the cycle time and cool-down modes. The moisture sensor consists of two conductive metallic wires located inside the dryer and mounted to the plastic lint filter housing. One wire has a very low-current AC voltage applied to it and the other one is grounded. When moisture is present a conduction path exists intermittently between the two wires. When the clothes are dry, there is no conduction path. When the dryer is in the automatic dry cycle, the control board will then advance to the cool-down mode.
For more information on this topic and others, please visit Western Appliance Repair Boise We repair washers, dryers, dishwashers, ovens, refrigerators, and more. We repair Maytag, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Ge, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Sears, and most brand appliances in Boise and Eagle Idaho. Please see us for more information - Western Appliance Repair of Boise Idaho 208-863-3702
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236 Boise, Idaho 83713

Washer Washing Machine Plumbing | Maytag Repair Boise

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Fri, 04 Feb 2011 02:02:00 +0000

http://www.westernappliancerepairboise.com
Water supply requirements for most washers include threaded faucets on both the hot and cold water lines. These faucets must be within 5 ft of the water inlet on the back of the washer. It is recommended that both the hot and cold water supply lines be provided with risers. These short lengths of capped pipe rise vertically from the supply line to provide a cushion of trapped air. This cushion of air absorbs the surge of water that occurs when the inlet valve closes suddenly. This absorptive action prevents "water hammer" and possible damage to the water inlet valve.
Most automatic washers need a so-called "water receptacle" to furnish a vacuum break for incoming water supply. The vacuum break is required by underwriters and many local plumbing codes. Water is directed to the receptacle from the mixing valve through a hose which is usually secured to the rear of the cabinet wrapper by clamps. The water from the hose passes through a nozzle in the receptacle top and is connected to the inlet flume hose at the bottom of the receptacle. In case of breakage the receptacle is usually replaced as a complete assembly rather than by individual parts.
A minimum dynamic pressure of 20 lb/in sq and a maximum dynamic pressure of 120 lb/in sq is recommended for the best operation. P pressure-reduction valve should be used in the washer supply line where inlet pressure entering the building exceeds 12 lb/in sq to prevent damage to the machine mixing valve. If pressures are below 20 lb/in sq, a long fill time and poor spray rinse action may be evident with the appliance. Problems of leaking water valves may also occur since water pressure is used to close the washer supply valves.
A convenient method of checking water pressure is with a water pressure gauge. Connect gauge to a Y fitting on the faucet with the gauge attached to one side of the Y and the washer fill hose to the other side. Read pressure while the washer is filling to obtain a stable dynamic reading.
For best washing results, the water heater should provide water to the washer at 140 to 160F. In some cycles as much as 30 gal of hot water is required per load. This is the entire storage capacity of a 30-gal hot water heater; therefore, it is imperative as an absolute minimum that a 30-gal, quick-recovery gas heater or a 50-gal, quick-recovery electrical heater be used.
Most water heaters have an adjustable thermostat located on the side of the heater or behind a cover plate. It provides a wide range of water temperature selection for the user. In order to obtain the recommended washer temperature of 140 to 160F, it may be necessary to turn up the thermostat at the water heater.
When adjusting hot water heater temperature, keep in mind the heat loss through the water lines. An unprotected water line can lose as much as 1F for every foot of pipe. As an example, a water heater set at 140F and located 30 ft from the washer will only supply 110F water temperature at the washer. To get 140F water to the washer, the heater would have to be Set to 170F.
Insulating the exposed water line between the water heater and the washer will prevent most of the temperature loss. Insulation is the best answer to a low-temperature problem. High water temperatures at the water tank may produce excessive temperatures elsewhere in the home. Excessive temperatures are to be avoided in the bathroom and kitchen areas where small children may be exposed to hot water.
Drainage systems: Washer water outlet facilities may be a laundry tube, standpipe, or a floor drain. The size of the tub required for disposal purposes will depend on the rated load capacity of the washer. For example, at a high water level setting, a 14-lb automatic washer will use about 18 gal in the washer cycle. The 18-lb model will use about 25 gal water at a high-water level setting in the washer cycle. It is obvious, then, that a 20-gal laundry tub would not hold the water from an 18-lb automatic washer. In fact, for some suds-return models, a laundry tub with double compartments is needed, each compartment having a capacity of 20 gal.
Regardless of the style or capacity of the tub or drain, it must be installed to provide proper drainage for the washer drain hoses. The drain hose must discharge at a minimum height of 30 to 34 in (depending on the model and style, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, etc.) and not, as a rule, exceeding 72 in. If the minimum height is less than 30 to 34 in, the water may possibly not be pumped out during the drain portion of the washer cycle.
Take care not to exceed the length of drain hoses provided with each washing machine. Excessive drain hose length only invites problems, the most common being hose "sag" which can lead to kinking or siphoning. Use one siphon kit for each 10 ft of hose. Support the hose with hangers, and exercise care to avoid a kink in the washer hose which may restrict draining.
Please contact Western Appliance Repair of Boise for all your Appliance Repair Boise Idaho needs. 208-863-3702
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
Boise, Idaho 83713

Appliance Repair Boise | Washer Installation

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Fri, 04 Feb 2011 01:58:00 +0000

http://www.westernappliancerepairboise.com
Satisfactory performance of an automatic washing machine depends to a great extent on a proper initial installation. But before discussing an actual installation, let us say a few words about delivery and handling techniques. The delivery of any major appliance - and this includes washers-plays an important part in customer satisfaction. All engineering, manufacturing, and quality efforts are in vain if the product reaches its destination in a damaged condition. Handlers must have respect for value. There is always danger of product damage unless a person is thoughtful and careful. Handle every appliance with care. Each is valuable and deserves the same thoughtful and careful handling that you would demand if it were being delivered to your home.
A safe, dependable, well-padded appliance dolly should be used when moving the product either into or out of the shipping carton. Be sure to strap the appliance to the dolly in order to avoid dropping it. Two workers are normally required to remove the appliance from the delivery truck. Never bounce or drop the appliance down to ground level when removing it from the truck tailgate. Also, take care to set the appliance down gently when tipping the dolly upright. Whenever possible, leave the appliance in the shipping carton until it is in the home. This will help to prevent damage to the washer and also add to the customer's peace of mind.
The shipping carton can be opened by cutting around the base with a carton safety knife. Take care to avoid scratching the appliance finish by cutting too deeply. The use of a carton safety knife with a short blade will help to eliminate this possibility. After cutting all the way around the carton base, lift the carton off the washer. Removal of the carton corner posts and packing strips completes the delivery and prepares the appliance for installation.
Installation Requirements
The washer should not be installed in any location subject to freezing temperatures, because the possible damage to the water-carrying parts. If such installation must be made or if the washer is moved in freezing weather, it should be thoroughly drained.
Inn cases where the appliance is to be installed flush to the wall, or if it is to be placed in a cabinet lineup, the instructions and rough-in dimensions given in the washer service manual should be followed. Plumbing connections for the cabinet line installation can be under the floor, in cabinets adjacent to the washer, or in any convenient location. However, concealed plumbing is not recommended where water faucets cannot be easily reached.
A washer will operate on any reasonably solid floor; however, if an installation must be made on a very weak floor, such as single-type construction with light or widely spaced joists, bracing or reinforcing the floor may be necessary. Floors can often be reinforced by attaching a sheet of ¾ inch plywood to the existing floor with screws. The sheet must be of sufficient size to rest over at least one floor joist on either side of the appliance. In extreme cases, it may be necessary to brace the floor from the bottom with a post or a jack. Any such bracing or blocking should support one joist at each side of the washer.

Please Visit Western Appliance Repair of Boise for all your Appliance Repair Boise needs. 208-863-3702

Boise Appliance Repair | Washer Repair Cycles of Operation

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 02:28:00 +0000

A typical wash cycle of a typical Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag agitator-type washing machine begins with a fill period of anywhere from 2 to 5 min. depending on the water level selected and the water pressure. Maytag, Whirlpool, Kenmore (Sears), Frigidaire, and GE may have minor capacity differences and thus time differences. The washing period, which will be for anywhere from 2 to 12 minutes, also depends on the setting the operator has selected. After the wash cycle is completed, the machine pauses for 1 min for the purpose of reversing motor rotation. After the 1-min pause, water is pumped from the spin basket and the outer tub. The spin basket does not spin during this operation, although, if there is no clothing or very little clothing in the spin basket, there is a tendency for it to move slightly. The washer agitator may also move very slightly, and this must not be mistaken for a fault in the washer. The motion of both the basket and the agitator will not occur in cases where there is a least a minimum amount of clothing in the basket.
The following is the general cycle of operation, with the approximate time used in the various states:
Wash fill - 3 to 4 minutes
Wash - 1 to 15 minutes
Spin - 2 to 3 minutes
Rinse Fill 3 to 4 minutes
Rinses 2 to 3 minutes
Spin Dry 3 to 5 minutes
Total Time 14 to 34 minutes
This is not exact cycle and like I said above, there are minor differences between such brands as Whirlpool, Kenmore (Sears), Maytag, GE, and others. The time for one complete cycle may range from as little as 14 minutes to as long as 34 min, depending on the particular machine and length of the washer period which the user selects.
During the washer pump out period, water enters the spin basket and removes all suds from the outer tub as well as the spin basket and clothes load. By the end of the pump out period, all water has been removed from the spin basket and the outer tub. After the pump out period, the spin basket spins under power for a period of ¼ minute. After this time, power to the motor is turned off, and the basket is free to coast. The spin basket coasts through the next 2 min. during which time rinse water enters the washer basket and pump still operates.
The initial power spin and the subsequent coasting of the spin basket, together with the spin-spray water entering the clothes, have a tendency to wash any lighter-than-water soil from the fabric and flush it away from the clothing. The washer spin basket is operating only at slow speed at this time; therefore, the clothing is not packed so tightly that a scum or lighter-than-water soil will be trapped.
After the initial spin rinse, the normal extraction spin of our typical washer occurs for a period of 2 minutes, after which the spin basket wills with water for a period of not less than 2 minutes and not more than 4 min, depending upon the original setting of the water level switch. The difference between the initial fill and the rinse fill comes about through the fact that the clothes in the spin basket contain some water which is not found in the original load.
After our typical washer is filled with rinse water, there is a 4 min period of agitated deep-wave rinse. The 1 min pause and 2 min pump out periods are repeated, after which the spin basket operates for a total of 7 min to extract water from the clothes. After the first 3/4 min, a1 /4 min spin spray occurs for an additional fresh-water rinsing. Please understand the cycle of operations, because if washers pause for 1 min and you do not realize the reason for it, you may have already have called the service technician before the machine starts again. The cycle times of various operations of the washers are given in the service manuals.
Please use this as a basic guide to understand the basic operating principles of the top-load automatic washing machine. Once again, there are slight variations between Maytag, Whirlpool, and Kenmore (Sears), so special considerations may be necessary. For more information on this article please visit Western Appliance repair of Boise at Appliance Repair Boise
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
Boise, Idaho 83713 208-863-3702

Whirlpool Repair Boise | Whirlpool F2 Error Code

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Tue, 01 Feb 2011 03:55:00 +0000

When the Whirlpool Duet washer control board detects a "long drain" condition the control panel will display the F2 Error Code.
During many parts of the wash cycle the pump will turn on and attempt to drain the water from the inside of the tub. If the pump time exceeds 8 minutes the water valves will turn off and a F2 error code will flash. In many instances the error code will surface but then "go away" only to surface 1 day, week, or month later. Other times the error code will surface and will not go away until professional repair is needed.
There are a few different things that cause the long drain or inability to pump efficiently. The most frequent problem I see is junk, bobby pins, toothpicks, socks, underwear, bra under-wires, plastic, dryer sheets, and other non-mentionable items:-> that somehow work there way in between the inner and outer tubs and get sucked into the drain pump canal.
The other problem I see is a defective or malfunctioned pump impeller. The impeller tends to break from its shaft and rattle around instead of rotating in a smooth fashion - which is required for proper pump operation. What causes this? Well, in the previous paragraph I mentioned the junk that eventually gets sucked into the washer pump canal. Some of this junk makes its way past the pump trap, if it's small enough, and caused enough stress on the impeller to damage and eventually break it.
So, how can we verify if we have a bad pump or we need to clean the pump canal? Easy, we choose step 1, clean the pump canal - from the pump all the way through the rubber drain baffle at the bottom of the washer.
First step, remove the bottom front panel of washer by loosening and removing the three screws located at the very bottom front of panel. Pull out gently then pull down to remove.
Second step, get a large bowl or shallow pan to catch the water from the drain trap. Place the pan under the drain trap to catch the water and remove the washer pump drain trap cover by rotating it counter clockwise. This may take some effort. Work slowly. Removing the trap cover too fast may cause a massive amount of water to flood out and cause damage. Remove it just enough so you can catch the water at a controlled rate.
Once all water has been drained out, remove the trap cover completely and clean all coin and debris from the trap. Disconnect the hose clamp from the rubber baffle hose that connects from the pump to the bottom of tub. Disconnect the large clamp from the hose at the bottom of the tub and remove the drain baffle. Inspect and clean it. Inspect and clean the orifice at the bottom of tub to make sure any socks or underwear hasn't clogged it.
Once we are sure everything is clear, and everything has been cleaned, stick your finger into the front of the trap and feel into the side of the pump where the impeller is located. Make sure there isn't anything stuck in it. Make sure the impeller moves freely. It should have a piston type of feedback feel when rotated. Make sure it is not broken from its shaft. If any damaged is noticed then the pump will need to be replaced.
These completed steps should help you resolve your F2 error code issues. If you are still having issues then professional appliance repair service will be needed. Thanks for reading.

My name is Rich and I'm the owner of Western Appliance Repair of Boise. For more information on this topic and others, please call us at 208-863-3702 or visit Western Appliance Repair Boise Appliance Repair
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
Boise, Idaho 83713

Appliance Repair in Eagle Idaho | Western Appliance Repair

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sun, 30 Jan 2011 20:57:00 +0000

Western Appliance Repair in Eagle Idaho repairs Dishwashers of any brand. Maytag, Kenmore, GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and others. If you are seeing white-film, mold, dirty dishes, or soap film then we can help. Please call 208-863-3702
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
Boise, Idaho 83713

Appliance Repair Boise - Washer Methods of Operation

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Sat, 29 Jan 2011 00:37:00 +0000

Soil removal in a modern washing machine is a combination of chemical and mechanical processes.
1. Chemical action. The detergent or soap solution dissolves and loosens the soil in the fabric.
2. Mechanical action. Flexing the clothes and forcing the detergent or soap through removes the soil. The functioning of the washer is aided by the heat and softness of the water, which increases the chemical action of the detergent or soap used.
Almost all modern automatic washers employ one of two types of mechanical action, tumbler or agitator. The latter is by far the more popular and more commonly used. But all automatic washers, regardless of type, model, or make, have only four basic functions of operation: (1) fill, (2) wash, (3) pump out, and (4) extraction (spin).
The heart of the agitator-type washing machine is the agitator, which usually consists of vanes or blades on a cone that fits over a central shaft in the washer tub. As the agitator turns back and forth, the blades or vanes catches clothes and move them about. This movement also creates currents in the water, which contribute to the cleaning action.
There are almost as many agitator designs as there are washers that use agitators. Agitators have vanes or blades of various numbers, designs, and sizes, which are arranged in a vertical or spiral position. Agitators may be of solid or perforated plastic or metal (usually aluminum).
Most agitator-type washing machines employ an oscillating (back-and-forth) action during the wash cycle. To produce this oscillating action, the arm is generally connected off-center to a low-speed gear wheel. As this gear wheel turns, it imparts a back-and-forth motion to the arm. This motion, in turn, is transmitted to a pinion gear which drives the agitator.
There are also other methods of driving the agitator. For instance, a few models provide a slow-speed, off center, wobbling motion to the agitator, while some others impart an up-and-down, pulsating motion to it. While the oscillating action is the one most commonly used for the washing operation, some machines of this type employ a rotating or revolving motion to spin the tub or basket for the extraction operation. To accomplish this, a clutch action of some type is used to disengage one set of gears and engage the other. One such clutch used in washers consists of a pin dropping in place in a hole in the drive gear to engage it or it may be a friction type, as is frequently found in automobiles. Incidentally, agitator-type washing machines are top loading, meaning that the clothes are placed in the washer through a door or lid that opens on the top of the unit.
The front-load type of automatic washer has gained in popularity in recent years. The tumbler mechanism is a perforated cylinder, usually aluminum or porcelain-enameled steel, which holds the clothes; it revolves in a larger tub that holds the water. Within the cylinder are baffles, which are projections designed to carry the clothes along, through, and out of the water, until the position of the clothes causes them to fall downward again, and the process is repeated.
The axis of rotation of the washing cylinder usually is either parallel to the floor or inclined upward from the floor at approximately a 30 degree angle. A few have a vertical cylinder. Most tumbler-type washers are loaded from the front, but some can be loaded from the top or at an angle. During the washing cycle, the cylinder revolves slowly, tumbling the clothes about in soapy water. During the damp-dry cycle, the cylinder revolves rapidly, and centrifugal action helps to throw the water out of the clothes. The low speed for washing and the high speed for damp-drying are provided by the gears in a transmission as in an automobile. In a similar manner, there is a gear-shifting arrangement and a clutch to engage the gears.
The needs and components of both tumbler and agitator washers are about the same. For example, both require hot and cold water. This water is fed into valves in the washer which turn on and off the hot and cold water and mix them at appropriate times. While a few washers control water temperature with a thermostat, most operate on a simple on-off principle. When the hot water is on and cold is off, the water in the washer is hot-whatever temperature the water-heater tank provides. When the cold water is on and whatever temperature the cold-water tap provides. When both hot and cold are on, they are evenly mixed to provide warm water; with average cold water temperatures out of the tap (about 50F), the mixture comes out at about 100F.
All automatic washers have an electric motor as well as a pump. The motor on most models, in driving the washer through the wash and rinse cycles, operates in both the counterclockwise and clockwise directions when viewed from the top of the machine. It operates counterclockwise during the wash cycles and agitate-rinse operation and clockwise during the pump out and spin operations. The motor turns the pump and drive pulleys through a belt or motor-coupler arrangement. After the completion of the agitation or rinse, the water is pumped from the washer before the start of the rinse cycle. In this operation the motor is operating in the clockwise direction as it is in the spin; however, and overriding clutch disengages the transmission spin tube so the basket will not spin. At the end of the pump out period a solenoid releases the clutch spring and the spin basket rotates to extract the water from the clothes. The pump is usually in operation continuously. When the agitator is in operation, power is transferred directly into the transmission from the drive pulley through the transmission drive shat and clutch spring located inside the transmission case. During the pump out and spin periods the clockwise rotation of the motor releases the clutch.
Solenoids play a very important part in the operation of an automatic washer. In addition to operating the clutch and gearshift arrangements, they control water flow, detergent application and the like. Of course, the overall control of the automatic washer is left to the timer or the electronic control. While part of the control is selected by the user - for instance, washing time and water temperature-most of the automatic action is performed at certain preselected time intervals by the timer/control.

At Western Appliance Repair Boise we repair washers, dryers, dishwashers, ovens, refrigerators, and more. We service Maytag, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Ge, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, and most brand appliances in Boise and Eagle Idaho. Please see Appliance Repair Boise Idaho for more information - Western Appliance Repair of Boise.
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
Boise, Idaho 83713

Verification

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 03:01:00 +0000

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Avoid Appliance Repairs | Proper Washer Water Supply Plumbing

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 00:00:00 +0000

Washer Water Supply and Plumbing

Water supply requirements for most Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag washers include threaded faucets on both the hot and cold water lines. These water faucets must be within 5 ft of the water inlet on the back of the washer. It is recommended that both the hot and cold water supply lines be provided with risers. These short lengths of capped pipe rise vertically from the supply line to provide a cushion of trapped air. This cushion of air absorbs the surge of water that occurs when the inlet valve closes suddenly. This absorptive action prevents “water hammer” and possible damage to the water inlet valve. I have seen 3 instances of "water hammer" last year alone on washers and other appliances in Boise Idaho.

Most automatic washers need a so-called “water receptacle” to furnish a vacuum break for incoming water supply. The vacuum break is required by underwriters and many local plumbing codes. Water is directed to the receptacle from the mixing valve through a hose which is usually secured to the rear of the cabinet wrapper by clamps. The water from the hose passes through a nozzle in the receptacle top and is connected to the inlet flume hose at the bottom of the receptacle. In case of breakage the receptacle is usually replaced as a complete assembly rather than by individual parts.

A minimum dynamic pressure of 20 lb/in sq and a maximum dynamic pressure of 120 lb/in sq is recommended for the best operation. A pressure-reducing valve should be used on the washer supply line where inlet pressure entering the building exceeds 12 lb/in sq to prevent damage to the machine mixing valve. If pressures are below 20 lb/in sq, a long fill time and poor spray rinse action may be evident with the appliance. Leaking at the water valve may also occur since water pressure is used to close the washer supply valves.

The proper method of checking water inlet pressure is with a water pressure gauge. Connect gauge to a Y fitting on the faucet with the gauge attached to one side of the Y and the washer fill hose to the other side. Read pressure while the washer is filling to obtain a stable dynamic reading.

For best washing results, the water heater should provide water to the washer at 140 to 160F. In some cycles as much as 30 gal of hot water is required per load. This is the entire storage capacity of a 30-gal hot water heater; therefore, it is imperative as an absolute minimum that a 30-gal, quick-recovery gas heater or a 50-gal, quick-recovery electrical heater be used.

Most water heaters have an adjustable thermostat located on the side of the heater or behind a cover plate. It provides a wide range of water temperature selection for the user. In order to obtain the recommended washer temperature of 140 to 160F, it may be necessary to turn up the thermostat at the water heater.

When adjusting hot water heater temperature, keep in mind the heat loss through the water lines. An unprotected water line can lose as much as 1F for every foot of pipe. As an example, a water heater set at 140F and located 30 ft from the washer will only supply 110F water temperature at the washer. To get 140F water to the washer, the heater would have to be se to 170F.

Insulating the exposed water line between the water heater and the washer will prevent most of the temperature loss. Insulation is the best answer to a low-temperature problem. High water temperatures at the water tank may produce excessive temperatures elsewhere in the home. Excessive temperatures are to be avoided in the bathroom and kitchen areas where small children may be exposed to hot water.

Drainage systems: Washer water outlet facilities may be a laundry tube, standpipe, or a floor drain. The size of the tub required for disposal purposes will depend on the rated load capacity of the washer. For example, at a high water level setting, a 14-lb automatic washer will use about 18 gal in the washer cycle. The 18-lb model will use about 25 gal water at a high-water level setting in the washer cycle. It is obvious, then, that a 20-gal laundry tub would not hold the water from an 18-lb automatic washer. In fact, for some suds-return models, a laundry tub with double compartments is needed, each compartment having a capacity of 20 gal.

Regardless of the style or capacity of the tub or drain, it must be installed to provide proper drainage for the washer drain hoses. The drain hose must discharge at a minimum height of 30 to 34 in (depending on the model and style, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, etc.) and not, as a rule, exceeding 72 in. If the minimum height is less than 30 to 34 in, the water may possibly not be pumped out during the drain portion of the washer cycle.

Take care not to exceed the length of drain hoses provided with each washing machine. Excessive drain hose length only invites problems, the most common being hose “sag” which can lead to kinking or siphoning. Use one siphon kit for each 10 ft of hose. Support the hose with hangers, and exercise care to avoid a kink in the washer hose which may restrict draining.
Rich
Western Appliance Repair Boise
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
208-863-3702

Appliance Repair Boise - Dryer Repair

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Thu, 27 Jan 2011 01:40:00 +0000

Appliances - Dryer Repair Operation

An automatic clothes dryer consists of a motor driven revolving basket, an electric heating element or gas flame, thermostats, and a timer. Some models also have a selector switch.

Air, heated by the electric element or gas flame, is forced through the tumbling clothes by a fan. The fan is driven by the drive motor. The temperature of the heated air, entering and leaving the basket, is controlled by thermostates which maintain a balance between the air velocity, air volume, and air temperature. The temperature of the exhaust air is a measure of the dryness of the clothes.

After the dryer is started (loaded with damp articles), the temperature inside the basket will rise rapidly. When the temperature reaches approximately 13F, the evaporation of the moisture in the load wil absorb the heat as rpaidly as the heat is generated by the heater. the temperature will not rise appreciably above 13F until the load is nearly dry.

When the load is nearly dry, there will not be enough mositure in the clothes to absorb the heat, and the basket and clothing temperatures will rise. This heat rise will continue until the discharge air reaches approximately 160F. At this point the heater circuit is disconnected by a thermostat. The dryer basket will continue to revole in what is called the overrun period, and cool, fresh air will enter the basket to cool the clothes for handling. The overrun time may last from 3 to 10 min and is controlled by either the timer or an overrun thermostat which wil stop the dryer.

Rich
Western Appliance Repair Boise
13601 W McMillan Rd 102-236
Boise, Idaho 83713
208-863-3702

Dishwasher not cleaning good?

noreply@blogger.com (Rich) — Mon, 13 Dec 2010 05:28:00 +0000

Folks, you're not imagining it - your dishwasher is not cleaning the way it used to. Recently the dishwasher soap manufacturers have removed the phosphates. While the phosphates did a pretty good job of cleaning dishes they did not break down easily and contributed to water polution, the govt says. Here's a good article on the subject.
If you feel the detergent is not a fault then please feel free to contact Western Appliance Repair
http://www.westernappliancerepairboise.com
Appliance Repair Boise