TraVeL

Shopping and noshing through the Holy Land

2011-09-03T10:26:00.000-07:00

From the walled city of Jerusalem to the otherworldly landscape of the Dead Sea, and from the vivacious beaches of Tel Aviv to the historic streets of Jaffa, there are many sights and activities in Israel, but spending your time shopping means taking home the tastes, smells and wares of the Holy Land.In the Muslim quarter of Jerusalem’s Old City, between the many holy sites, are tiny, crowded alleyways packed with bazaars. Glittering garments and hand painted pottery spill out onto the walkways, sharing the cramped space with old women selling freshly picked vine leaves ready to be stuffed with meats and vegetables. You will rub shoulders with locals and tourists, and there is a refreshing lack of attention paid to patrons. Unlike some markets, you will not hear calls of prices and bargains from the vendors here; no one will yell at you to buy their goods. But it will be hard pass up the temptation to take home some leather sandals or aromatic spices to remind you of your travels.When you need a break from shopping and sightseeing, cool down with an ice-cold juice from one of the many stands found all over Israel and Palestine. In Old Jerusalem one such traditional hummus place offers an unbeatable and affordable feast. Abu Shukriintersection of Via Dolorosaand Al Wad Road; 972-2-627-1538, is small and has cracked and worn tables, but the service is friendly and quick and the hummus is perfectly smooth and flavourful. For a cheap and memorable meal, try the foul, a dish of mashed fava beans, and the homemade pickles served with piping hot pita bread, followed by a mint teaIn west Jerusalem, the sprawling coveredfood market is full of gorgeous fresh meats, cheeses, fruits and vegetables being picked over mainly by locals. The prices are average and the goods, like the hot golden rounds of bread fresh from the oven, sprinkled generously with sesame seeds and piles of plump, ripe figs, are as beautiful to look at as they are delicious.Find a perch at the Topolino café(62 Agripas; 972-2-6622-3466Italian restaurant specializing in seafood and homemade pizzas and pastas. It is a great spot to watch people, busses and cars whiz past whileenjoying olives and a glass of wine. Delicious chocolate truffles are served with the bill.Ha Carmel Marketlocated in the centre of town on Ha Carmel and Allenby Streets, is the largest open air market in Tel Aviv. The rambling market’s vendors hawk a mix of souvenirsjewellery, T-shirts, woven sandals and candy, but what sets it apart are theimpressive fruit and vegetable standsTables groan under the weight of mountains of grapes, cherries, eggplant, radishes, peppers, olives and okra, when in season. Continue past the golden mounds of baklava and heaps of freshly baked bread to another section where local artists sell their paintings and handmade crafts. The market is open during week, but is at its most heaving on Fridays.End your one-stop shopping spree at Restaurant Gadera2626 GederaStreet, adjacent to the market at the intersection of Allenby and KingGeorge Streets; 972-3-5100164, an adorable little spot with a friendly staff offering a unique fusion of Mediterranean and European specialties made with fresh local and seasonal ingredients. Its variety of boutique Israeli beers and wines are best sampled with a selection of delectable during happy hour

Musical destinations Trondheim Norway

2011-09-03T10:20:00.000-07:00

At the opening night of Norway’s Trondheim kammermusikkfestival everyone is included; even the harbourside boats get a look-in, sounding their horns as part of a musical celebration of ‘sounds of the town’. They almost upstage a spotlit musician, Bergmund Skaslien, who has been suspended upside-down from a crane with his viola. This, the culmination of an evening of quirky musical spectacle, has seen violinist Daniel Hope encourage the crowds to join in with Steve Reich’s Clapping Music, while festival composerhas performed pieces from his opera GomorraBoat horns aside, what is exceptional about the Trondheim Festival, and why it draws such outstanding namesDaniel Hope and Norwegian piano hero Leif Ove Andsnes on stage together for the first time – is this expertly crafted mix of genres. ‘There shouldn’t be a division between a contemporary music festival and achamber music festival,’ insists artistic director Sigmund Tveteviolinist himself, and a founding member of the Trondheim Soloists, he explains how the festival has grown out of the city’s pioneering development of young musicians back in the 1970s. As one of this system’s first generation, along with festival director Vegar Snøfugl, hewent on to form the Soloists in 1988 followed by the festival, which is now in its 16th year and runs alongside an International Chamber MusicCompetition. As a young performer, having seen how old some UK musical society audiences were, Tvete Vik was keen to try something new. ‘We wanted to show the young generation that chamber music can be so much more than just Mozart, so we wanted to integrate the whole thing.Another benefit to the city is the close proximity of its festival venueswhich sees festival goers hurrying from one concert to the next, dodgingflurries of bicycles these have right of way on Norwegian pavementsOne of the most striking venues is Nidaros Cathedral. Building began in 1070 over the tomb of St Olav, the region’s Viking ruler who converted to Christianity. Nearby in the shopping centre his 18-metre statue gazes down the street as townsfolk stock up on their daily goods. I’d beenthat one of the many saint statues on the cathedral’s west wall had a ‘restored’ face of Bob Dylan but I couldn’t find him among the heavenly host. Impressive enough in the day, at night – midnight to be precise – the dimly lit cathedral holds an atmospheric festival concert by its own Girls’ Choir, performing works led by percussionist Hans-Kristian Kjos Sørenson. Folk music and eerie choral swishing noises mingle as the choristers perform his work Improvisasjon.Another night time concert, in the 12th-century Archbishop’s Palace, sees Daniel Hope take a whirlwind tour through Baroque music on his 1769 Gagliano violin. A festival director himself, he knows what makes a good festival tick. ‘The Trondheim Festival is about connecting worlds and about looking at music in its context. The programming here is brave and exciting and that’s why I like coming. It’s a town thriving on music.’ Hope mentions that there’s another famous Brit in town: he’s spotted John Cleese and can’t resist suggesting that perhaps he was ‘pining for the fjordsIt’s not often you can hear a concert by the great trumpeter, Håkan Hardenberger, and meet the composer, too, who hascomposed a work, Exposed Throat2000especially for himpieces in his repertoire by living composers, he isplaying them, so that means he is bringing living music to the world.’ And that’s what is so refreshing about Trondheim: a look around reveals how the programming draws a wide mix of agesproof that the festival is planning for future generations.

The scariest spots around the world

2011-09-03T10:15:00.000-07:00

floating gardencovered with thehundreds of dollsscrounged rubbish piles, the dolls were hung from trees to keep away evil spirits and remember the drowning death of a young girl. According to Barrera, the dolls he planted and hung around the chinampa were still alive, but forgotten by their owners. While alive, Barrera would move the dolls around the island from different trees, creating a chilling sight. The chinampa is accessible by boat and the dolls are still around, despite Barrera’s death in 1992.The groundswere already a popular burial destination, due to a monk sprinkling the cemetery with dirt from Golgotha (location where the crucifixion of Jesus wasto occurTocope with demand, a large church was built and thus began 400 years of exhuming bodies for a very unique form of interior design. Around 1870, a woodcarver named František Rint organised all the bones into elaborate and chilling sculptures, chandeliers and coat-of-arms. The Ossuary has since become one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Czech Republic.You may have some issues accessing this small, narrow tunnel located on a naval base in Yokosuka, Japan, but between midnight and 1 am on rainy nights a samurai apparently keen on revenging his master will appear. Surprisingly shy, this warrior only appears to solo travellers, and there areexpats that left the tunnel disappointed. Some believehis spirit is unsettled as he is unable to finish a task for his master and loyalty prevents him from finding peaceBirds of a feather are not the only ones who flock together. On a lonely hill fort in 1831, people planted crosses to remember loved ones who died in an uprising against the Russian empire. Over time, with more skirmishes and unrest, became popular as a place for prayer, remembrance, resistance and even more crossesAs of today, there are well over 100,000 crosses teetering over oneanother, punctuated with small religious statues, rosaries and portraits. It has withstood repeated attempts to remove the crosses, including bulldozing. Though it appears out of this world and spooky, it is, at heart, a peaceful location earning plaudits After losing her husband and young child, Sarah Winchester became convinced that spirits were cursing her family due to the guns made by the Winchester family empire. To remedy this, she located an unfinished farm and commenced building around the clock. Construction work on what became knownnever ceased during her lifetime (not even for a minute), with Sarah believing it would stave off angry spirits., the four-storey home with 160 rooms is open to the public, in San Jose, California. It is a confusing array of rooms, doors that open to walls and non-functioning bathrooms. Look out for Mrs Winchester’s favourite flourishes; the number 13 and spider webs.Abandoned in 1986, Pripyat was established as a city for workers at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant. Evacuated after the devastating meltdown, the Ukrainian city has existed in standstill, a picture of slow dilapidation. With no maintenance performed on buildings, roofs fall, water leaks and trees grow through floors.
Some people have travelled through to take photos and measure radioactivity levels in the area, but this is an adventure best left to the experts.

The Maldives meets Dubai, in Malaysia

2011-09-03T10:10:00.000-07:00

The water gently laps beneath the deck of our villa, as we admire the sun setting over the Straits of Malacca. Condensation streams down the side of my glass of iced kalamansi juice as we gaze at the ships on the distant horizon. The only sound is the squawk of a native bird flying overhead.over-water villa complex, just off the coast of Selangor in Malaysia. It is hard to believe that only a few years ago, this was the humble, sleepy fishing village of Bagan Lalang, in Sepang. It has since been transformed into part of a glittering, 22km-long coastline development, poised to place Malaysia firmly on the world’s luxury property and tourism map.Sepang Goldcoast was conceptualised as an integrated holidaydestination catering to international tourists and travellers, modelled on famous beach havens such as the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia and Miami Beach in the United States.
Sepang is situated in Malaysia’s richest and most developed state, Selangor, which is often referred to as the gateway to Malaysia; Port Klang, the country’s largest port, and the Kuala Lumpur International Airport are both located there.
Surrounding the Federal Territories of Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya, Selangor's strategic location boosts its appeal as the preferred holiday destination for the rising middle class Malaysians and foreign tourists. Sepang Goldcoast is a mere 30-minute drive from the airport and just over an hour from the capital.
Local attractions include the stone-carved Hindu temples in the Batu Caves, the aboriginal communities at Pulau Carey and international sporting events like Formula One and yacht races. But the standout attraction at the moment is the Gold Palmwhich opened last summer.From the air, close to 400 villas fan out into the ocean in the shape of agiant palm tree, much in Dubai -a grandiose development that has been plagued with problems from its inception. Malaysian Tourism officials are counting on the bold resort development to be the jewel in their tourism crown rather than an international embarrassment.Rooms start a RM800, a reasonable rate compared to similar over-water villas in destinations like the Maldives. When completed, sometime over the next decade, Sepang Goldcoast will have resorts, amusement parks, a marina, floating market and wildlife habitats. Besides sun worshiping, planned local activities include surfing, canoeing, kayaking canopy walks and yoga.

Welcome to Shangri-La

2011-09-01T07:47:00.000-07:00

Here, traffic lights do not exist (there was one set in capital Thimphu, but they were removed for being unfriendly), strict conservation laws mean trees still cover almost 75% of the country, and productivity is measured in Gross National Happiness.
This is a land of awesome mountains – some of the highest in the world – thick-forested valleys and imposing dzong, monastery fortifications often perched on cliffsides. It is a place where landscapes are dotted with blue poppies, snow leopards and innumerable banners of bright flapping prayer flags.
Yes, prayers. Bhutan takes its Buddhism seriously. The religion pervades all levels of life, resulting in peaceful temples, red-robed monks scurrying along the streets, a mind-blowing number of deities and legends, and a widespread belief in practicing kindness and loving to all sentient beingsParadise does not come cheap. In order to maintain the country’s pristine nature and spiritual integrity, the Government charges a hefty minimum fee to enter the country. Currently, visitors in peak season (February to May and August to December) must pay at least $200 per person per night; in the low season (January and June to July) the fee is $165. The government plans to increase the rate to $250 in 2012
This cost covers virtually all your expenses: accommodation, meals, a licensed Bhutanese guide, internal transport and trekking arrangements, should you wish to stretch your legs (the country offers some of the best hiking in the Himalayas).
But accommodation is not all encompassing. There are some super-luxurious properties in Bhutan that will set you back significantly, on top of the fee. But stays under canvas or in more mid-range lodgings should be covered.
Also note, higher fees apply if you do not travel as a group: single travellers pay an extra $40 per night, on top of the minimum day rate; couples an extra $30 per person per night. So you might want to find some like-minded friends...
A guide, and likely a separate driver, come as standard in Bhutan. Independent travel is forbidden.
If there is something you particularly want to experience – a certain tsechu (festival) or maybe an archery lesson (the national sport) – you can tailor-make a trip with the help of a specialist tour operator. But all itineraries must be approved by Bhutan’s Tourism Council, and accompanied by a local guide.
Your tour operator will also arrange your transport to Bhutan – you cannot book flights independently. Bhutan has just one international airport, at Paro (a scenic, if white-knuckle, landing amid the mountains); flights on national carrier Druk Air fly in from Nepal, India and Thailand. It is also possible to enter overland, but you will still need your travel plans – itinerary, visa, etc – arranged in advance by a tour operator

Living in Prague

2011-09-01T07:43:00.000-07:00

A real fairytale city, with its castle on the hill and famous statue-covered bridge, Prague has starred in everything from moody music videos to real-life revolutions. Its glorious architecture and rich cultural and historical heritage make it a permanent draw for tourists, and the excellent public transport and cosmopolitan and artistic life is a boon to its residents.The Prague of the wild, wild east that drew backpackers, adventurers and other peripatetic souls to its cobblestoned streets after the Velvet Revolution has turnedbackinto a first-class European city. And is priced like one too. But the attractions remainthe medieval, Gothic and Baroque architecture (and the modern, marvellous “Fred and Ginger” building), Wenceslas Square, the Astronomical Clock inOld Town Square the Staronova Synagogue and Jewish Cemetery and the Charles Bridgebuilt and named for the Holy Roman Emperor Charleswho reigned from 1346 to 1378) over the Vltava RiverThey may be crowded, but there is a reason they attract so many people.Prague is a central Europe cultural hub, with important national theatre, opera, museums, galleries and a long literary history. But the city’s one million residents are also keen for fun at the local beer hall or beer garden, and will help you get some of those Budvars under your belt. They like to sit with friends in one of the outdoor cafes and listen to some elegant jazz played by a group of young musicians on the square. Prague is not a big city, but has dense neighbourhoods and outlying suburbs. Most people moving there find it best to rent first in the centre, in Old Town or Mala Strana. “Start in the centre and learn about the area that might work better for you,” advised Prokop Svoboda, managing partner of Svoboda and Williams estate agents in Prague. “Sale prices are high, but rent is low, so rent first.”
The most picturesque and romantic area of the city is Mala Strana, on the banks of the Vltava River, home to Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral. For those who want nightlife, the packed streets of Old Town are the right spot, along with the New Town, which is, in fact, quite old. Many expats look to residential neighbourhoods that are close to the centre, such as Vinohrady, Holesovice, Hrebenkach and Orechovka. And many new residents with families live close to where the international schools are located, usually no more than 15 or 20 minutes from the city centre. The English International School is in Libus, the French school is in Smichov, and the German school is in Jinonice.
Others, like Russians, tend to buy close to the Russian Embassy or in new developments in Stodulky in Prague 5. Prague’s neighbourhoods are also grouped together into 22 numbered district, with Prague 1 covering most of the centre and Old Town, and the other numbers radiating out from there.
Many people have weekend cottages around the countryside that are within 100km of Prague. The rivers Vltava, Berounka and Sazavatributary of the Vltava Riverare popular for day trips, and the mountains are favourite weekend getaways, like the Jizera and Krkonose Mountains on the border with Poland or south to Sumava the Bohemian Forest range on the borders with Germany and Austria. Or drive to see the castles in Moravia or the spa town of Karlovy Vary, now host to an international film festival every July.Prague’s central European location makes it a relatively easy train journey to Berlin and other German and Polish cities, as well as points south like Vienna, Salzburg and Budapest. The airport is served by 50 international airlines travelling to 130 destinations, and it is about two hours to London and an eight to nine hour flight to New York

One to five nights in Miami

2011-09-01T07:38:00.000-07:00

Escape the sweltering East Coast heatprivate-island resort tucked under the shade of lush palms to protect your million-dollar smile.Drizzle yourself in opulence in a Luxury Bayfront Room made for two for one ($125) three ($375) or five nights ($625). Included in your escape is breakfast each morning for two, all of your resort fees, and a 20% discount on spa services, so you can lift your pinkie with the best of them.You will be living the life of Forbes magazine cover models while being shuttled around Grove Isle's luxurious 20 acres. Spoil your regular fitness routine at one of 12 tennis courts iForget standing in line: the 85-slip marina will have you yacht-loaded and sea-bound in record timeAfter a day of affluence on the water, take your sun-drenched skin toLavish yourself in the Waterfall Watsu Pool — one of only a few on the coastas you float in the arms of your personal massage therapist. Channel your inner diva as they massage muscles, mobilize joints, and stretch tissues after a long evening of soaking inMiami's vibrantNever question your VIP status
This posh dining experience can be enjoyed anywhere throughout the pristinely private island you have been strutting through-next to the pool, under a palm tree, in the sand or your guest room.
Epicureans delight in a menu chock-full of gourmet dishes like peach-marinated grilled cobia, dry-aged New York strip, and roasted Chilean seabass.
As long as you can wield off autograph requests from island co-inhabitants
like Mariah Carey and Oprahwe can dream, right? this indulgent escape will have you tossing bills and popping bottles. Best of luck getting your feet back on the ground upon departure.

Paris the inside story

2011-09-01T07:35:00.000-07:00

Come with us to discover the most beautiful interiors in the City of Light, and the stories that shaped themis one of Paris’s grandest department stores. At its heart there lies an architectural masterwork: la coupole – the dome – soars 33 metres above a sea of French boutiques, from Dior and Chanel to Lacoste and Lancôme.The schematic drawing of the dome in the store directory makes it look as if a ballistic missile is lodged vertically, ready to launch. Conceived in 1912 by architect Ferdinand Chanut, the stained-glass structure rises dizzily in 10 sections, the peacock array of panels a cross between the rich blues of Chartres Cathedral’s stained-glass windows and the riotous reds and oranges of a ’50s jukebox. Three tiers of arched balconies overlook the generous expanse below, their railings worked in elaborate wrought iron traceryA century ago, business at Galeries Lafayette depended almost entirely on French textiles. That has all changed today, but a French commitment to le patrimoine national – the national heritage – lives on in la coupole. ‘The 10 coats of arms around the base of the dome represent the 10 French cities that were most important in the textile industry,’ explains Marion Lacoume of the store’s archives department. ‘Lyon for silk, Amiens for velvet, and so on.’This extravagance was all part of a plan to outdo a nearby archrival, Printemps, whose own glass-and-ironwork-covered atrium rose six stories, and the feel of a Byzantine bazaar was intended to urge clients into a buying frenzy within a dreamlike environment. The so-called ‘midinettes’ – girls working in the area who would hurry their lunch to allow more time for shopping – responded with fervour, and the store’s fortunes flourishedIncreasingly, the site became a landmark. At the height of her career in 1950, Edith Piaf sang at Galeries Lafayette to boost post-war spirits. The street outside was closed to traffic and an enormous crowd gathered before an outdoor stage to listen to her sing La Vie en Rose. Paris Come with us to discover the most beautiful interiors in the City of Light, and the stories that shaped themHoused in a 17th-century house on the busy rue du Bac, the venerable one of Paris’s oldest continually operating shops. The ground floor is given over to lovely gardening equipment, from calfskin gardening gloves to stainless-steel bulb planters, but the real show is upstairs – a cabinet de curiosités like no other.Pale green walls with delicate gold stencilling grace a formal salon filled with stuffed animals. Zebras, lions, bears, birds, and antelope are arranged as if at a cocktail party – the animals’ lifelike air is both disconcerting and droll, as though they had finally prevailed and displaced humans. Woody Allen got the joke and imagined a surrealist wedding party in these rooms for his latest film, Midnight in Paris.The original founder, Jean-Baptiste Deyrolle, a noted taxidermist and entomologist, started the business in 1831 on the rue de la Monnaie. Fifty years later, his grandson Emile moved Deyrolle to its present address, and today rooms are still filled with collections of insects, shells, geodescrystal rock formationsand butterfliesall for salein wooden display cabinets that recall those of the Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle across town.

Sydney by the sea

2011-09-01T07:30:00.000-07:00

The constant procession of beautiful bods never fails to distract.
Dunk yourself in the surf, or grab a bite to eat, a bikini or some surfboard wax on Campbell Parade. For a gorgeous view of the big sandy arc, wander out to Ben Buckler Lookout at the northern end of the beach
Tracking south, the blustery sandstone cliffs and grinding Pacific Ocean could not be more spectacular: keep an eye out for passing dolphins, whales and rubber-clad surfers.Small but perfectly formedis next − a deep tongue of sand popular with the generically good-looking. It is hard to picture now, but between 1887 and 1911 a rollercoaster looped out over the water here as part of an amusement park.Further south a steep-sided beach ‘burb, its bowl-shaped park strewn with picnic tables and barbecues. The swimming here is good, as are the low-key, breezy eateries. Bronte also lays claims to the oldest surf lifesaving club in the world1903an iconic claim in the city that mythologized lifesavers well before David Hasselhoff.Blanketing the cliff tops south of Bronte with views to-die-forliterallythe gravestones dazzle in the sunlight. Amongst the subterranean are famous writer Henry Lawson and cricketer Victor Trumper. It is an engrossing and strangely uncreepyplace to explore, and during the winter you may be rewarded with the sight of whales swimming offshore.
Continue south past the cockatoos and canoodling lovers in Burrows Park to sheltereda family favouriteFringed by concrete erracesthe beach here feels more like a swimming poola great place to dust off your snorkel.The trail continues past Gordon's Bayone of Sydney’s best shore-divespotsthen lands you smack-bang on gloriousCoogee isan Aboriginal word for rotting seaweed, but do not let that deter youbeach here is wide and handsomeSwagger into the beachsidetoast your efforts with a cold lageras the Pacific surges up onto the sand, same as it ever was.

Saying I do overseas

2011-09-01T07:25:00.000-07:00

Roughly one in five couples today are shunning the traditional church wedding in their hometown, opting for a destination wedding on a beach, mountaintop, castle or vineyard instead. And the trend is on the rise as couples realise that they can have their dream wedding by going abroad.

“With the average overseas ceremony costing less than a third of the cost of a traditional wedding in the UK, even for a really exclusive event, couples no longer need a big bank
balancewedding planning service.A destination wedding also solves the issue of who to invite. In Asia, many couples feel that having an intimate destination wedding is a way to reclaim their special day, rather than feeling obliged to invite many guests who are friends and associates of their parents.Once you have decided to get away to tie the knot, the next question is where to go. The Mamma Mia effect is still very much alive, leaving lots of couples dreaming of a Greek Island wedding. Greece spoils you for choice with its roughly 6,000 idyllic islands, with endless sands and dramatic cliffs surrounded by aquamarine seas. As brides today favour the smaller islands for a more intimate wedding of no more than 20 guests, pearls like Amorgos and Kefalonia are now more fashionable than party islands like Mykonos or Phapos. The island country of Cyprus, located in the eastern Mediterranean, is locally known as Aphrodite’s Isle. Where better to get married than where legend holds the goddess of love rose from the waves? There is sunshine nearly year round, English is widely spoken and it is very reasonably priced. Options for all budgets range from exclusive boutique hotels to family friendly all-inclusive properties. Pritoras’s Fig Tree Bay and Green Bay Beach are among the choicest areas. The allure of the sun-drenched Caribbean is very popular with North American couples. There are thousands of islands to choose from, with miles of golden sandy beaches and clear blue water.Getting married in the Caribbean also means your guests can enjoy laid back group activities like catamaran cruises or dinners on the beach. “Most of our clients want a location and a resort where their guests can have unlimited access to meals included in the cost; they seem concerned with keeping the costs down for their guests so places like Dominican Republic and Jamaica, which have a lot of all inclusive resorts, are very popular,explained Sandra Aarona wedding planning service.

Bali is the top destination for weddings in Indonesia. The island has a moderate, warm climate, tropical jungles and stunning Indian Ocean views.
“A good number of small, bespoke wedding chapels have sprung up on the island in recent years too, but most importantly, there are lots of agents on the ground who handle all the marriage paperwork” explained Jonathan Goh from Wedding Acts, a wedding planning service based in Singapore. “The couple just needs to arrive a couple of days before the wedding.”
The legalities in Thailand are not as easy as Bali, but most couples choose this destination for its beautiful beaches, delicious food and the warm local hospitality. Most wedding ceremonies here will offer the choice of aBuddhist blessing, lantern lighting ceremony and perhaps hiring a baby elephanta controversial practice we do not condonePhuket and Koh Samui are the more popular destinations, but smaller islands too are coming into vogue. “With air travel these you can bring 50 people to Thailand at a reasonable price and stay in Thailand’s most luxurious resort, at a price that is probably half what it would cost to get married in Europe or Sydney,” boasted Anthony Lark, General Manager
The variety of this country is what makes it stand apart. Some couples opt for a game reserve in the heart of the South African bush or a stylish vineyard setting, but most cannot resist the lure of the beaches that lap the country's coastline from Cape Town all the way round to Durban. “It's where we got married three years ago and I think it offers all that you get from a beach wedding in the Caribbean, but also has so much more on offer for the honeymoon and the guests -- be it a bush safari or the colourful culture and night life in Cape Town

Beyond the beaches in the Philippines

2011-08-29T10:52:00.000-07:00

Think of the Philippines and images of gorgeous beaches and crystal blue seas are sure to spring to mind. Islands such as Boracay and Palawan easily attract travellers with their picture-perfect looks, but if you get away from the coast (which granted in a country with more than 7,000 islands might not seem like the obvious thing to do), you will see a whole new side to the country.

Yes, the Philippines is a tropical paradise and yes, it has some of the best beaches you can swing a hammock on, but there is plenty more to this country than just a pretty seascape. It has unique wildlife and dramatic scenery, and chances are you will not be sharing the experience with hordes of tourists.
So forget about the beaches for a moment. Here are four other reasons to visit the Philippines.
The Philippines’ rice terraces are quite rightly touted as the eighth wonder of the world. They were carved out of the mountainsides in North Luzon 2,000 years ago, and it is said that if they were laid end to end they would stretch halfway around the globe. A few of the best places to see them are around Banaue and Batad, which are a nine-hour bus ride north of Manila, so most travellers to the country never venture there. Their loss! Head there to see the rice terraces’ dramatic landscape, to experience the serene atmosphere of the mountains, to hike on paths where you will not see another soul for days and to witness the traditional way of life which still exists there.Tarsiers are tiny primatesso small in fact that they can sit in the palm of your hand), which are endemic to a few islands in Southeast Asia. They have enormous eyes, soft velvety fur and long fingers. Think of the cute one from the Gremlins and you are not far off. The species is endangered but some efforts are being made to help them on the island of Bohol, which has a sanctuary called the Tarsier Research and Development Center, where you can go and see the little fellas.Bear with me on this. They may not be a typical tourist attraction but the hanging coffins in Sagada are a fascinating insight into the region’s culture. Found on the cliffsides of a valley nestled in the mountain province, which lies 275km north of Manila, this traditional way of burying people (which isno longer used) is only found in a handful of places in the world. To get there requires some dedication. The journey involves a 12-hour bus ride from the capital, the last few hours through dramatic winding mountain passes and unsealed roads. The area around Sagada also has great trekking, along with waterfalls and caves to explore – some of which are burial caves so if you are not coffin-ed out there is a chance to see a few more.the famous Filippino smile. It may not sound like something that is worth visiting a country for, but the old adage is true, it is the people that make the place. Throughout the archipelago you will find people that are friendly and curious, want to know where you are from - often shouting out their guess - and where you are headed. When you are not feeling in the best mood yourself, if you glance around you will always find lots of smiles and laughter that will instantly lighten your mood.

Copenhagen’s gritty alter ego

2011-08-29T10:48:00.001-07:00

Once notorious as the city’s red light district, it has reinvented itself as a bohemian hangout, full of vintage shops, cool bars, art galleries and design studios. However, it maintains a rebellious streak – expect irreverent street art, decorating everything from birdhouses to dustbins. With a mission to make electronic music more accessible, August sees thehit Vesterbro’s Enghaven Park. This year’s line up includes veterans Aphex Twin and The Orb, plus newer names like Ghostpoet.

Sustainable Jamaican mountain retreat

2011-08-29T10:47:00.000-07:00

Compose your own redemption song with today’s Rasta retreat to the mountains of Jamaica for an all-inclusive stay
Enjoy a four- ($811) or five-night ($940) stay for two guests in a cottage; or a four- ($2,380) or five-night ($2,738) stay for four guests in a villa, including all meals, guided tours, a day trip to Negril, and a $50 drink credit.
"I have travelled the world and nothing compares to the personal touch of
"Every conversation, every meal, every beverage, every hike was transformed into a powerful display of love. This was by far the best vacation ever."This 7.5-acre sustainable farm promises to treat you right every day and every night with solar-powered electricity, natural spring water and organic fruits and vegetables. Get together with your family and friends in a rustic cottage or spacious villa above the trees, each featuring valley views, cable television and a stereo for pumping your songs of freedomChoose from vegetarian, seafood, or traditional Jamaican menus prepared by a personal chef in Zimbali'sOr, learn to stir it up yourself with a Jamaican cooking class taught over a wood fire. Tour the fertile valley where much of your food is grown, then take a dip in the clear mountain springs where Marley himself bathed in the shade of the bamboo canopy.None but yourself can free your mind, and this holistic healing centre provides the perfect environment to do so. Consult with Bongo Roach, a Rasta elder and certified herbalist, on organic remedies. Indulge in a natural hydrotherapy massage beneath the nearby waterfall.
Don't worry, be happy in the company of fellow travellers around the evening fire. You will leave renewed, refreshed, and without a doubt that every little thing's gonna be alright.

Malaysia's Thaipusam festival

2011-08-29T10:41:00.000-07:00

Thaipusam is the most spectacular Hindu festival in Malaysia, marking the day when Lord Shiva’s son, Muruga, was given command of the celestial forces to vanquish three Asura demons. A wild orgy of body piercings – cheeks, tongues and lips are all skewered, often multiple times -- this fascinating festival can be a mind-spinning sight for a first-timer.Devotees take approximately 48 days to prepare for the festival, which takes place mid-January to mid-February, when the moon is full in the 10th Tamil month of the Thai calendar. They undertake special diets and cleansing routines, sleep on the floor and practice regular prayer.Thaipusam takes place deepThousands of people flock here to give thanks to Muruga, the Hindu god of war. Inside, you will find monkeys scampering and bounding up the 272 steps into Temple Cave, the vast main cavern that houses a golden statue of Muruga. The caves were “officially” discovered some 120 years ago by American naturalist William Hornaday.Pride of place in the festival is Lord Muruga's silver chariot, which makes its way from the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown to the caves. Carrying statuettes of Lord Muruga, as well as consorts Valli and Teivayanni, the chariot tips the scales at 350kg of silver – a jaw-dropping display of wealth when it was first unveiled in 1893.During Thaipusam, devotees perform a dance to Muruga known as kavadi attam. The dance helps the devotees appeal to Muruga for divine assistance or give thanks for his help. But it is not just dancing that happens here.The greatest sight is the kavadi carriers, the devotees who subject themselves to seemingly masochistic acts as fulfilment for answered prayers. Many of the faithful carry offerings of milk in paal kudam (milk pots) often connected to their skin by hooks. Even more striking are the vel kavadi – great cages of spikes that pierce the skin of the carrier and are decorated with peacock feathers, pictures of deities and flowers. Some penitents go as far as piercing their tongues and cheeks with hooks, skewers and tridents. While it looks excruciating, a trance-like state stops participants from feeling pain; later the wounds are treated with lemon juice and holy ash to prevent scarring.Interested in taking part in the pierced proceedings? Only the truly faithful should attempt the ritual – insufficiently prepared devotees keep doctors especially busy over the festival period with skin lacerations. Make sure to take plenty of water with you, as the heat can be just as overwhelming as the sights.

In search of the perfect road in Mallorca

2011-08-29T10:38:00.000-07:00

Mallorca has blown a very big fuse. This is my first thought upon spearing out of yet another pretty-but-identikit rural village, because as soon as we leave the immediate environs, the night sky wraps around the Cayman like a black velvet shroud, turning the ice-white Porsche into a faintly glowing, unquiet ghost. Being let loose in the new Cayman R, the lightened and tightened version of one of the most useful sports cars in existence, up a Mallorcan mountain road at night sounds quite cool, but believe me, at this point there’s a horrible, gut-boiling sense of frustration running through me like a dirty infection. And it has nothing to do with dodgy tapas.The fact is that there are precisely no streetlights to give even the vaguest hint as to which way the road goes. Not one. Any ambient starlight or moonglow is diffused by heavy cloud, and the road is simply too twisty to get any solid idea of direction. The wraithlike little Porsche is fitted with the excellent optional xenons, but it’s still impossible to drive even vaguely quickly without risking inconvenient death. Worse, the roads are actually pretty good. But you can sense the doomy drops off the inky edges, and the corners have a nasty habit of tightening at the last moment. Like trying to run across a large room in pitch darkness, you can sense the space even if you can’t see it, and you belt along cringing, awaiting the moment when you meet the scenery with your face. It’s all about confidence, and I appear to have left mine at the hotel.I can’t believe this. Gifted a hardcore Porsche and a mountain range, and I can’t even find a decent bloody road to drive it onGrinding the point home is the overwhelming sense of potential in this newest Cayman. Ghosting through these orange-lit Mallorcan villages, the R potters with sublime ease, riding better than a standard Cayman S, despite being lowered a not-insignificant 20mm, failing to graunch over speed bumps, sucking lumps into the dampers like a tiny, perfect magic trick. On light throttle openings, the 330bhp 3.4 sounds, frankly, like it has a blowing exhaust, the familiar flat-six hoarseness akin to a dog coughing up an angora sweater, but on brief revels to three-quarters of the rev-range, the wail starts to build. Just as I have to slow for the next village. Frustration becomes a familiar – and infinitely bitter – taste in the back of my throat.Eventually we stop to take pictures in a sleepy village and immediately cause a bit of a stir. It could be the sight of two men assembling a photographic rig that looks like some sort of siege engine in the middle of the street at 1am, or it could be the Cayman. A mallowy wobble of craggy old lady shuffles over to poke us with her walking stick, so I smile and point at the Porsche, miming picture-taking in some sort of bizarre late-night version of Give us a Clue, becoming increasingly camp during the whole wordless exchange. Apparently satisfied, the leathery old matriarch taps the side of her head, points at my face and undulates away. She likes the Cayman. She likes the fixed rear spoiler. She likes the massaged bodywork, the mascara’d black of the headlight-surrounds. She likes the Seventies graphics down the side, and she loves the lightweight black wheels. She even likes the interior, trimmed as it is in blood-leather and white plastic like some sort of futuristic abattoir. Probably.What she doesn’t know is that if it were down to pure rationale, there would appear to be very little point in the R. Compared to a standard Cayman S, it’s a bit lower, a tiny bit faster, a smidge more powerful by 10bhp – though torque remains the same – has more downforce (15 per cent at the front, and 40 per cent at the rear) and a tad less weight. I’ll admit that 55kg of weight reduction is significant in a car of this size, bringing down the total to 1,295kg, but probably not a deal-breaker

Business trip

2011-08-29T10:36:00.000-07:00

About the only thing a business traveller can find wrong with Sydney is that it is so far away from the rest of the world.Other than a little jet lag after the 25-hour journey from Europe, the 14-hour slog from California, or the 10-hour flight from Tokyo, Sydney is all positives: a gorgeous harbour, Mediterranean climate and a sophisticated food and wine scene. Its hotel stock is modern and upscale. Every day the Qantas fleet of giant Airbus A380s float in at Sydney’s newly expanded, bright and airy international terminal at Kingsford Smith airport from cities around the world.When it comes to business, there is little sign of ahow Sydneysiders refer to that unfortunate global financial crisis that has cast a pall on nearly every other city in the world. But in Australia, a stable government, massive raw materials exports to Asia, a strong currency and a talented, optimistic workforce have helped it weather the global economic storm better than almost any other advanced nation in the world.
Spurred on by robust business and consumer confidence, economists expect Australia’s economy to expand even faster in the next five years. Through 2015, Australia’s GDP should grow about 5% annually.
When it re-opens in early 2012 after a seven-month closure for a tip-to-toe renovation, the harbourfrontwill likely resume its rank as the top choice for visiting business travellers. This contemporary three-storey hotel is known for its breezy indoor-outdoor public areas and spectacular views of the Sydney Opera House through floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies. A few blocks uphill on a quiet street above theRocks you will find the classically elegant 100-roomfavoured diplomats. Nearby is the 563-roomultramodern marble and glass tower hotel offering equally expansive rooms and views, freethe 36th floor with a very popular happy hour. CloserAustralians refer to a city’s central business districthotel, a modern 362-room boutique-style hotel built inside an 1800s sandstone façade that once housed Bank of New South Wales. Here “business class” rooms get complimentary lounge access, wi-fi and a hot breakfast buffet among other extras.Two of Sydney’s hippest hostelries are housed in reclaimed buildings. The popular 136-roomhotel serves as the anchor for a lovely marina, outdoor dining and apartment complex in a repurposed wharf building at Woolloomooloo near Sydney’s famous Royal Botanic Gardens. The hotel’s wide variety of rooms and lofts retain the rustic authenticity of the building (like its exposed timber) while providing a modern five-star experience and water views. Fashionistas and celebs hole up in themodernist chic 31-roomlocated in a converted warehouse building in the middlehottest restaurants and bars in the city. If you are looking for more space or a longer stay, consider the newnear Darling Harbour, with 201warmly functional luxury
If you have some free time, head to the city’scatch any of the many ferries to get some fresh air, establish your bearings and see locals on their way to or from work. (Sydney ferries carry more than 14 million passengers each year.) The ferry ride to nearby Manly for an outdoor meal and stroll to its picturesque beach is perhaps the most iconic choice for visitors. On Saturdays, catch one to Balmain for a walk through its famous outdoor market and surrounding fisherman’scottages. Stick around for a long lunch take a tour of its many pubs, which AustraliansThe harbour’s Cockatoo Island, which once housed a prisonamong other structures is an increasingly popular playground, and now includes the quirkyarrive early because the last ferry departs the island at 8:30 pm.

Climbing to the top of the Philippines

2011-08-26T11:56:00.000-07:00

On Mindanao, an island better known for terrorists than tourists, a rugged mountain rises through the clouds. Verdant trees line a narrow dirt path leading up to the precipice, and a bubbling river beckons the adventurous spirit to follow it into the wilderness. This is Mount Apo, the crown jewel of the Philippine climbing experience.Towering 2,954m above Mindanao, the southern region of the Philippines, Mount Apo is the highest peak in the country. The climb typically takes two or three days, depending on which of the many trails you choose, and is not for the faint of heart. But those who brave the near-vertical slopes, rocky ledges and hidden swamps are rewarded with dazzling views and a journey that inspires the soul.While tourists are often warned to avoid the entire Mindanao region because of internal tensions with rebel groups, most of the violence is isolated to areas farther west than Mount Apo. An extensive pre-climb safety briefing, registration permits and knowledgeable local guidesThe biggest problem you are likely to encounter is how to capture the mountain’s grandeur in a photo lens. Getting to the base of Mount Apo is a journey in itself. After flying to Davao City (direct flights are available from Manila and Cebu), tourists must take a two-hour bus or van ride to Kidapawan for orientation, then ride an open-air jeep or motorcycle to the base camp, another hour away. Alternatively, you can hire a private car or taxi the entire way from Davao City. A Unesco World Heritage site, Mount Apo Natural Park spans about 64,000 hectares and is nestled between the Davao and North Cotabato provinces.
the base camp at 4 am, hoping to be well into the forest by the heat of the day. The hike began like any other mountain trail. In high spirits, we followed the path up and down a few minor hills and bounded across the river on stepping stones, laughing about who would be the first to stop for a water break. As we trekked up the mountain however, slick footholds along craggy cliffs replaced the once-easy dirt paths and breathless wheezes replaced our carefree jokes.
Once in the rainforest, the trail seems to disappear, visible only to the most experienced guides. You can feel the altitude shift as you continue the ascent – sometimes at a 90-degree angle. Occasionally rickety ladders or rusty handholds help travellers up, but often it is a task to find a secure tree root or steady rock on which to place your foot that will not trigger a minor landslide onto your mates below. Many backpackers camp the first night at Lake Venado, a welcoming expanse of serene flatland dotted with hidden swamps. The tune of cicadas lulls you to sleep after an evening of crystal clear stargazing.
Watching the sunrise on Mount Apo is like sitting in a watercolour painting. As the mist clears, pastel pinks, oranges and purples dance in the sky around you, challenging you to race the sun to the summit. If you do not mind hiking in the dark, you can leave Lake Venado three to four hours before dawn and reach the top at the moment the sun peeks over the horizon, illuminating the lone white cross that stands at the peak.
From the apex, the view is clear and unobstructed. You are far above the clouds now, surrounded by a vast expanse of nothingness and a panoramic view. It feels like the top of the world; a transcendent experience.
The journey down is not as arduous as the hike up, but it is not by any means easy. Still, many take the opportunity to stop and “smell the roses” along the way. Mount Apo is considered one of the richest botanical mountains in the region, and rare plant and animal species thrive in this unspoiled environment. Hidden waterfalls along the edifice offer refreshment to weary travellers. At the bottom of the trail, hikers can rest their aching legs at soothing natural hot springs.

Space travel powered by helium balloon

2011-08-26T11:52:00.000-07:00

Richard Branson’sone of the commercial spaceship companies chosen to carry Nasa’s scientists into suborbital space, already has 445 passengers booked, with $55 million in deposits. However, a more affordable option is on the horizon. is a six-person pod designed by Spanish companythat will rise to the edge of the atmosphere, powered by a helium balloon. The cabin holds four passengers and two pilots for the three-hour flight, 36km above the earth’s surface. The flights will launch at night, so passengers can watch the sun rise over the curvature of the earth. While admiring the world from near space, in-flight information about the altitude and range of view will be displayed directly on the pod’s windows. To return to earth, the helium is vented slowly, then the balloon or sail separates from the pod, deploying a parafoil. The pod pops its airbags and is guided in for a landing. Bloon uses zero propellants, so there are no emissions or noise pollution.The full ticket price is 110,000 euros, and for a deposit of 8,000 euros, customers can request when and from where they want to fly. Flights will lift off sometime between 2013 and 2015. A “minibloon” manned test flight is set for 2012.

India’s tribal village markets

2011-08-26T11:49:00.000-07:00

In remote, isolated Chhattisgarh, India’s tribal life continues to thrive. Surrounded by mountains, forests and waterfalls, more than 40 different tribes call the area home, which makes for politically unstable but culturally vibrant communities. Ultra-leftist Naxalite guerillas terrorise small pockets of northern Chhattisgarh, but in more peaceful areas like Bastar, rich cultural diversity shines. And nowhere does it shine more brightly than in the area’s blindingly colourful tribal markets.
Known as haats, these markets are held in different places each day – one day in a village; the next in the forest; another day in an open meadow – but each time it is the same. Hundreds of tribes people from many different villages, each specialising in a different craft or skill, converge in one spot to trade their wares.
Money only began being used a few years ago. Before that, one villager might try to use the bright fluorescent saris her tribe specialised in making to barter for sacks of mahuwa flowers that grew in abundance in another village and were used to brew local liquor. Another villager might take some bell-metalwork, made in his village using the centuries-old technique of wax-thread moulding, and try to swap it with another village’s local delicacy, live red ants.
These days, money changes hands as quickly as you can say inflation, but the goods being bought and sold have not changed a bit. The potentially potent mahuwa flowers, resembling dates, are still as popular as ever, as are the red ants which are used either for medicinal purposes (their sting has antibacterial qualities) or eaten as a snack. Chapura, a chutney made from red ants and chillies, is the most common way to eat ants, but it is not unusual to see villagers scooping up hundreds of live red ants on a leaf and eating them in one exceedingly brave gulp.
Market days are sometimes brought to a close with the climax of cockfighting. It is a barbaric spectacle – the cocks have hooked blades strapped to their claws and are then encouraged to fight to the death – literally. But it is still incredibly popular, as locals, mostly men it seems, wager not insignificant amounts of money on the bird they think will survive. Arguments between punters are common, but usually settled amicably, perhaps because of the unusual system of mediation that is still in place in many of the local communities. Most villages have a sirha, or shaman; a wise-old man who, when asked to mediate important disputes, falls into a trance and consults the local gods before advising on the best course of action. It is an age-old respected system that is probably not worth disturbing for a misplaced bet at your local market.

Three nights of Cabo couture

2011-08-26T11:46:00.000-07:00

evel infinity-edge pool at the Cabo Azul Resort in Mexico.

In literature, the rule of three says that things that come in threes are more effective than any other number.

But the rule of three isn't just for penning brilliant prose — it is also true when it comes to vacationing. See for yourself when you book a three-night stay at.
This sophisticated Los Cabos resort will make you feel like more than just a number. Enjoy your one-bedroom garden-view villa ($525 for Sunday or Monday check-in; $750 for Thursday check-in). The first 25 escapees will receive an automatic upgrade to a two-bedroom garden-view villa. All villas feature a large balcony, a full kitchen with stainless steel appliances and separate bedroom quarters, all in a 12-acre oceanfront setting.
Compliments of acclaimed interior designer Dodd Mitchell, villas are "dramatic design statements in black and white", Each comes with amenities like king-size beds, an in-room spa tub and luxury bathrobes, just to name a few.
For a trifecta of surf, turf and sizzle, head to which serves five-star home-style Mexican cuisine from Javier Sosa — a well-known name in Southern California dining circles — along the Sea of Cortez. Work it off at the state-of-the-art gym, open to all guests.
The 24-hour concierge can point you in the right direction, whether you want to spend some of those dollars you've saved on accommodations at local stores, take a swim with a Pacific bottlenose dolphin or hit the links.
Choose to stay at the resort and indulge in a treatment at the . Order up a margarita (or three) beneath the thatched roof of before a swim in the tri-level infinity pool, where two's company, but three is most certainly not a crowd

Island hopping in a Philippine paradise

2011-08-26T11:42:00.000-07:00

Life does not get much better than when you are island-hopping near the town of El Nido, on the island of Palawan in the far west of the Philippines. Sheer limestone cliffs encase beautiful white sand beaches, waters teem with brightly-coloured fish and pink sunsets provide the backdrop for seafront barbecues.The Philippines has, for the time being, avoided the tourist influx invading its South East Asian neighbours, like Thailand and Vietnam. But for those who venture there, the beaches and scenery rival anywhere else in the region, yet with far fewer visitors. El Nido is the classic example. It is perhaps best known as one of the settings for the Robin Crusoe-themed game show Survivor. It is not quite off-the-beaten-track, but compared to Thailand’s Phuket or Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay, the archipelago of islands surrounding El Nido offer the increasingly rare opportunity to find yourself alone on a palm-fringed beach.To get to these islands, you can either hire your own boat or take one of several tours from the town. Once there, you can easily spend your days lazing around on the white sands and dipping into the crystal-clear waters, or messing about in motorboats and kayaks, stopping to have lunch in an isolated cove.
Some tours take you to the rocks where locals make their living by collecting birds’ nests for the manufacture of birds’ nest soup (a Chinese delicacy and how El Nido, Spanish for “the nest”, got its name).
One of the draws of Palawan lies under the water; divers will see colourful reef fish, corals and perhaps turtles, dolphins and white-tipped sharks.
North of El Nido are the Calamian islands, with a number of wrecks to explore. As an amateur, most of my experience has been confined to purposely-sunk fishing boats in easy-to-reach locations, but in the Calamians, even fairly inexperienced divers can navigate their way inside World War II Japanese warships sunk by the US Navy in the 1940s. On the second deck of one ship, I floated past an old car. It had folded in on
itself and there was a little clownfish swimming out from the chassis.
El Nido has so far escaped the tourist hordes because getting there takes time and effort. There are direct flights from Manila to Coron in the Calamians, but then it is another six or seven hours to El Nido by boat. Alternatively, you can fly from Manila to Puerto Princesa -- Palawan’s largest city -- but it is another five hour taxi or bus ride up from there.
The exclusive resorts use several small airline services linking Manila to a little airfield overlooking the bay. Although the flights are available to non-guests, that option, like the resorts themselves, is pricey (about 6,400 Philippine pesos one way), while the Coron/Puerto Princesa alternatives are often less than 2,000 pesos). It may be worth it though, for the amazing aerial views of the archipelago.

The 'ruin pubs' of Budapest's seventh district

2011-08-26T11:39:00.000-07:00

Budapest’s seventh district, once home to a flourishing Jewish community before World War II, has emerged as one of the best bar-hopping neighbourhoods on the busy Pest side of the Danube.This renaissance has been led by a string of recently opened "ruin pubs" (romkocsma in Hungarian) – a fitting name given the still-derelict state of much of the area. Most can be found along the streets behind
Each ruin pub is unique, but they all share certain similarities. The main ingredient is usually an abandoned building, preferably with a vacant lot nearby to hold picnic tables and a few beer taps. Add to that a bit of thrift-shop decor and a healthy dose of hipster vibe, and the result is what you might get if you crossed a chill Berlin squat with a smallish Munich beer hall.
The best ruin pubs offer live music or DJs on the weekends, as well as film nights and art exhibitions. Some even have light food and hostel accommodations. They are the perfect spot to unwind on a warm summer night after a busy day of sightseeing.
The arrival of the ruin pubs could not have come sooner for beleaguered Budapest VII (as the city's districts are designated; when in Budapest, do as the Romans do). Though the area is a stone's throwPest's swankiest boulevard, it suffered from a mix of neglect, bad karma and poverty that started during World War II with the deportation of tens of thousands of Jewish residents, and continued into the 1960s, '70s, and '80s as a large Romani population was forced to relocate to Budapest and occupy the abandoned houses.
Now, main streets like Király utca and Dob utca sport trendy coffeehouses and wine bars alongside remnants of Jewish life - small family-owned restaurants and bakeries - that managed to survive.
Three of the best ruin pubs are all a short walk from one another and can be taken in fairly easily during a night of methodical drinking. Each has its own personality, so choose whichever one suits the night and your mood.Nearly every discussion of ruin pubs begins with the granddaddy of themall was the first to open and is still arguably the best and bawdiest of the bunch. Several rooms, including a large open-air garden, can accommodate hundreds of people, making it a good choice if you are travelling in a group. In addition to beer, there is wine, cocktails and light food.
a relative newcomer, having opened its doors fully in 2010 after a few years of opening briefly and then closing down. More than a ruin pub, Fogas aims to be a community cultural centre for the rapidly gentrifying area around nearby Klauzál tér, which was once the heart of the former Jewish quarter. The clientele here tends to be more local than either Mumus or Szimpla. it is not nearly as homey as the former, nor as lively as the others.

Copenhagen on a plate

2011-08-26T06:31:00.000-07:00

The term “new Nordic cuisine” is setting hearts aflutter on the international food scene, and any gourmand worth their salt (French fleur de sel, preferably) is placing Copenhagen high on their food-fancying holiday itinerary.The Danish capital is home to the world's number one restaurant taking the topspot in therankings in both 2010 and 2011. Copenhagen is also home to 10 Michelin-starred restaurants and the best young chef, Rasmus Kofoed, gold medallist at the prestigious Bocuse d'Or.So what has taken this city from its humdrum pork-and-potatoes tradition to culinary dynamo, and what exactly does “new Nordic cuisine” mean? Chief responsibility for the spotlight now shining Copenhagen's way lies with the city's young chefs, many of who have apprenticed with some of the most influential chefs in the world.These chefs have taken their experience and combined it with a passion for Denmark's local raw ingredients - its excellent pork, game, seafood, root vegetables and berries - and a reverence for the seasons. Taken to extremes, this means Noma's owner-chef René Redzepi eschews all non-indigenous produce in his creations (no olive oil for example, and no tomatoes), plays with modest, often-overlooked ingredients (pulses and grains) and forages for herbs and plants. Ingredients are skilfully prepared but technique never overshadows flavour.The day after Noma won the title of world's best restaurant in 2010, 100,000 people attempted to make a table reservation. The restaurant does around 75 covers a day, five days a week. In other words: landing a reservation is the equivalent of winning the food-lovers' lottery.If you do get lucky, you are in for a sensory treat: familiar ingredients are used alongside intriguing Nordic delicacies such as reindeer moss from Finland, Icelandic skyr (similar to strained yoghurt) and sea buckthorn berries. Vegetables feature as dessert (beetroot granita, for example). And there are loads of edible greenery; Noma explains that at their venue “greens take up more room on the plate than is common at gourmet restaurants”. Flavours are fresh and clean on both the plate and palate.Diners choose between seven or 12 courses and there is a comprehensive wine list or a wine-matching menu (there is also a wonderfully executed juice menu). Service is exemplary -- with the chefs delivering many of the dishes -- the décor is elegantly rustic and the atmosphere warm and convivial, not fussy and formal. At meal's end you may be offered a tour of the kitchen, where you can see the hard work that goes into such gastronomic genius.For all the hype surrounding Noma and new Nordic cuisine, however, this is clearly not how the average Dane eats every day. So where can you go in Copenhagen to get a more prosaic picture of dining, Danish style?Near-unpronounceable smørrebrød is Denmark's famed open sandwich. It generally consists of a slice of rye bread topped, for example, with roast beef, smoked salmon, pickled herring, liver pate, or fried fish fillet and finished with a variety of garnishes. The final sculptured product often looks too good to eat and it is usually only served at lunchtime. Top spotsfor a fix include traditionalcontemporarylatter offering takeaway and a restaurant. Try to pronounce smørrebrød as but do not feel bad if your pronunciation does not match a native Dane’s.

Berlin versus tourists

2011-08-25T16:55:00.000-07:00

Community meetings in Kreuzberg – a working class area to the west with a large Turkish population, favoured by visitors on weekend breaks – flew banners reading, “Help! The tourists are coming!” One alternative magazine urged its readers to “steal their mobile phones and wallets as you walk by their café tables, burn their cars, smash their hotel windows, drop rubbish, throw stuff at tourist buses”.The grievances are varied: tourists rattle their wheelie cases over the cobblestones early in the morning, and change the nature of clubs by taking pictures of each other on mobile phones.The resentment springs from an enduring counter-culture. During the Cold War, West Berlin attracted dissidents because the government exempted citizens from military service. It duly became a pressure cooker of politics. The fall of the Wall meant two very different cultures – and sets of incomes – were thrown together. In the old East, there is resentment as yuppies move in.And there’s likely to be more to moan about. Berlin had over nine millionvisitors in 2010, a 10% increase on the previous year. But the city needs them. The destruction and division of Berlin left it with virtually no industry. Companies like Siemens relocated to Bavaria. Berlin needs the money – your money.

The perfect trip Southwest USA

2011-08-25T16:52:00.000-07:00

Take to the road in Southwest USA, where you can explore incredible natural landscapes, hit the casinos in Las Vegas, then retire with your winnings to the classic glamour of Palm Springs.Fly into Denver, then drive for 6 hours through some truly epic mountain scenery
Silverton is a town with barely two paved streets to string together, hidden amid the peaks of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. Dwarfed by monstrous wooded slopes, which begin their ascent to the skies mere metres from the street, this hamlet of wooden hotels and saloon bars doesn’t feel like a seething cesspit of debauchery. But it is just 60 years since little Silverton was at the forefront of the Wild West when, percentage-wise, it made today’s infamous cities of sin, Las Vegas and Bangkok, look like paragons of virtue.
The late 1800s saw scores of men arriving here to prospect for silver and gold. The earth was so abundant with mineral riches that the pass linking the new mining towns of Ouray, Silverton and Durango was nicknamed the Million Dollar Highway – not for its eye-popping views over the forested gorge, but after the subterranean jackpot every man was hoping to hit. With the miners came those who made a living by providing “entertainment” for their nights above ground.So it was that up until the 1950s, a visitor to Silverton had a 50/50 chance the first building they wandered into would be a brothel. Literally half the town – Notorious Blair Street, as it’s still known – was dedicated to bordellos. The other half, centred around the parallel Greene Street, completed the binary of Wild West morality with long lines of churches and chapels.The first bordello was a one-room wooden shack, split by a curtain into a “private” back room and a drinking den up front. It is now home to Professor Shutterbug’s Olde Tyme Portrait Parlour, where tourists can have sepia photos taken dressed in Wild West garb. Tommy Wipf set up the studio in 1973. He is a reserved man with a handlebar moustache to rival any in this, the capital of handlebar moustaches. “This was a good ol’ street,” eyes darting towards the Shady Lady Saloon opposite. “Three blocks of whorehouses, 120 girls giving it their all. There were hangings and shootings on every corner – just a regular Western town.Silverton has inevitably lost its rough edges – the last brothel shut in 1953, the final mine in 1991. But the old edge-of-the-world feel can be conjured up with a drive past the ghost town ruins of former mines scattered along the pass. Rusted wheels stand silent, gap-toothed wooden houses are half-collapsed: the rotten shards of a thousand dreams of riches. The isolation here must have been overwhelming – topped only by the insatiable desire to keep digging for the next life-changing.