London Fashion Hunter

Tribute to the Doors

2013-05-22T23:06:00.000+01:00

The death of Ray Manzarek, keyboard player of the legendary band The Doors, is really sad. As a teenager, I was fascinated by their transcendental lyrics and songs, listening to them again and again and reading all the books mentioned on Jim Morrison's biography. I was seduced by his mind and inspired by their brilliant music, as many continue to be today.

Robby Krieger, Ray Manzarek, John Densmore and Jim Morrison

A documentary about The Doors was shown at the British Film Festival in 2010 and much has been written in order to lift the veil of mystery surrounding them, but it's impossible to conceptualise what their music communicates. We can focus on one instrument or just the words but it's the fusion of the four elements that creates magic.

On this video, Ray Manzarek speaks about how Riders on the Storm came up, an excerpt from the documentary "Mr. Mojo Risin - The Story Of L.A. Woman". For further insights about him and The Doors it's worth reading his memoir. There was always this subversive quality about their music, challenging perceptions and fixed behaviours. Somehow it feels like a wake-up call.

Now there's so much noise around that we almost forget how music can uplift the mind, particularly when combined with poetry. The Doors are unique and Ray Manzarek's jazzy narratives are timeless. Their legacy lives on.

"If the doors of perception were cleansed everything would appear to man as it is, infinite." William Blake

The Doors

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Cannes Festival Style 2013

2013-05-17T21:22:00.002+01:00

Spring couldn't be any brighter in Cannes with all the stars posing away on the red carpet. Ironically, the film festival suffers $1m jewellery theft on the day of the premiere of The Bling Ring, a new film directed by Sofia Coppola about teenagers stealing designer clothes, bags and shoes from celebrities (based on true events).

Carey Mulligan in Christian Dior Couture and Zhang Yuqi in Ulyana Sergeenko

Film, media and fashion work closely together to promote one another, we love to see our favourite actresses all dressed up, looking super glamorous. It's like reading the Cinderella story, the transformation is exciting but it's important to understand how everything works without getting caught up by the flash bulbs.

Freida Pinto in Sanchita and Emma Watson in Chanel

The red carpet is a powerful advertising medium reaching millions of people through television, magazines, blogs, videos... Stars are promoting themselves, their films and the brands they wear. Fashion plays a key role to portrait the perfect image but that's what it is, a constructed illusion just like the Cinderella story itself.

Julianne Moore in Christian Dior and Sonam Kapoor in Dolce & Gabbana

This fantasy moment is beautiful to watch but we should be happy to continue playing the lead role in our own life. The most rewarding transformation of all comes from within, inspiring women who have a good heart reveal their kindness in whatever circumstances they find themselves in.

"Luxury is artificial poverty." Socrates

Fan Bingbing in Elie Saab and Zang Ziyi in Carolina Herrera

If we think of celebrities, Angelina Jolie has certainly influenced positively other women when she wrote about removing her breasts due to health concerns. Fashion is definitely not about inner beauty but it has become so obsessed with illusory iconic symbolism that it seems to have lost the fundamental connection with who we are.

Isla Fisher in Oscar de la Renta and Liya Kebede in Alberta Ferretti

As Beyonce said on her documentary Life is But a dream, stars are judged for what they wear instead of their talent. So when we see this parade of beautiful women wearing the most amazing gowns on the red carpet, it's important to focus above all on how they are on screen. That's where they really shine!

Elizabeth Debicki in Alex Perry and Lane Del Rey in Lena Hoschek

Having said this, it's always interesting to see what celebrities decide to wear when the lights go up. The Princess dress continues to be a favourite look on the red carpet as stated on my blog post Couture Fit for Stars, featuring Zhang Yuqi's green dress by Ulyana Sergeenko. Shimmering fabrics and lace are also strong, particularly in figure hugging gowns.

Georgia May Jagger in Roberto Cavalli and Cara Delevingne in Burberry

Curiously enough, some celebrities have decided to wear not so well known designers such as the Indian Sanchita, the Australian Alex Perry and the Austrian Lena Hoschek. It's refreshing to see new names emerging on such a global scale event. I also have to post images of these two British models of the moment as they both look stunning! What's your favourite dress?

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Top Films in Fashion

2013-05-14T19:18:00.001+01:00

Social media is gaining more and more prominence in people's lives, we love to share with others whatever we find interesting via our hi-tech gadgets. Fashion, which is always a reflection of what's going on in the world, has taken this into a whole new level producing short films to communicate brands' ethos.

(photo: socialmediacouncil.eu)

Fashion doesn't account for an exclusive category on YouTube but the most renowned brands are investing on videos to be watched and shared online in order to develop brand awareness. We can find catwalk shows, advertising campaigns, store openings, interviews... Louis Vuitton has even produced beautiful videos about its carefully selected City Guides.

The most popular fashion videos are shot as music videos such as the ones Inez van Lamsweerde did for Pierre Balmain, Juicy Couture and more recently to Miu Miu. But global fashion labels can afford the best and produce authentic short films to entertain their followers while also connecting with them on a different level. Keira Knightley acts on the latest Karl Lagerfeld film for Chanel (96,187 subscribers), Once Upon a Time... published on May 8 2013.

Dior (58,539 subscribers) was probably one of the first big names of the fashion industry to produce short films specifically commissioned to communicate the house's style. My favourite is In Shanghai, Lady Blue is in Love directed by David Lynch with Marion Cotillard, where her Lady Dior bag hides the secrets of her love story (published on June 8 2011).

Prada (15,905 subscribers) has recently produced a film by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola starring Léa Seydoux but A Therapy by Roman Polanski with Helena Bonham Carter and Ben Kingsley is still more popular and always a pleasure to watch (published on May 22, 2012).

Donna Karan New York (468 subscribers) has still a long way to go in terms of popularity but Anjelica Huston took a turn behind the camera to direct Haven't We Met Before? starring Felicity Jones and the charming Jack Davenport who you may recognise from The Talented Mr Ripley. This short film, published on February 4 2013, captures the pleasure of getting ready to go out and the spirit of old school seduction.

Diane Von Furstenberg (948 subscribers) also needs to work harder to stimulate people to follow her YouTube channel but has already collaborated with Gia Coppola to create Writer's Block (published on March 30 2012), featuring a playful 60s-inspired story about a young screen writer in Hollywood. Much has been written about fashion in film but fortunately this connection is becoming more and more a two-way process.

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Dior's Blast from the Past

2013-05-11T19:25:00.002+01:00

For moments of serene inspiration why not visiting the Christian Dior Museum of Granville? Its latest exhibition - Impressions Dior - celebrates the influence of the impressionism art movement on Maison Dior's aesthetics. Impressionist painters went outdoors to express their direct intuitive vision, it was all about light, colour and movement.

This new found artistic freedom has inspired Christian Dior to depict the woman as a flower with his legendary "New Look" in 1947, aimed to bring back the Belle Époque. Christian Dior's autobiography describes the interior of the villa Les Rhumbs and devotes long passages to the cliff top garden he designed with his mother Madeleine.

Right: the pergola decorated with roses in the garden of the villa Les Rhumbs in Granville. Musée Christian Dior collection, Granville. Left: Rose de France afternoon dress in taffeta with coloured rose print, Spring-Summer 1956 Haute Couture collection, Flèche line ©LazizHamani

He was as captivated by an open-air lifestyle as impressionists themselves. It's important to remember the impressionism art movement captures the transient effects of light in brilliant compositions, depicting landscapes and scenes of modern life painted outdoors. Le déjeuner des canotiers by Renoir is a particularly vivid representation of the bright sunlight and the energy of social gatherings.

Left: Marie Bracquemond (1841-1916), Three Women with Parasols, oil on canvas. Paris, Musée d'Orsay. ©Patrice Schimdt/RMN-Grand Palais (Musée d'Orsay). Right: Amber Valetta inspired by Renoir, Anna Mikhaylik inspired by Seurat and Vivienne Orth inspired by Manet models, Autumn-Winter 2007 Haute Couture collection. Christian Dior by John Galliano. ©LazizHamani

Impressions Dior establishes an interesting dialogue between more than 70 dresses with a selection of masterpieces from impressionist painters, ranging from Monet to Degas, Renoir to Berthe Morisot. Throughout this exhibition it's possible to assert the permanent links that have been weaving the Maison Dior to impressionism. Is there a better way to brighten up your spring?

Left: Berthe Morisot, Tulips, watercolour on paper, 1890. Musée Marmottan Monet, Paris. ©Marmottan Monet Museum, Paris/Giraudon/The Bridgeman Art Library. Right: Helvétie dance dress in white organdie, embroidered with crescent moons in blue lace and sequins. Spring-Summer 1956 Haute Couture collection, Flèche line, ©LazizHamani.

Christian Dior Museum

Granville, Normandy

Ends September 22nd 2013

Christian Dior by Raf Simons, Autumn/Winter 2013-14
(photos edited from vogue.it)

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Top 10 Met Ball Dresses

2013-05-07T14:57:00.001+01:00

The annual Costume Institute fundraising gala at the MET is one of the most important events for the fashion industry, when celebrities wear the most amazing dresses on the red carpet. This year's theme was Punk: Chaos to Couture, a promising yet challenging endeavour for even the best stylists in the world.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Giles Deacon

The red carpet didn't live up to expectations but some stars managed to succeed and the most brilliant interpretation of the theme was undoubtedly by Sarah Jessica Parker. Philip Treacy's headpiece is definitely the cherry on top of the cake, bringing the whole look together in a magnificent way.

Taylor Swift in J. Mendel

There were a few literal interpretations of either punk or couture but few achieve the same subtle balance between these two contrasting styles. Taylor Swift is always interesting on the red carpet, revealing a strong aesthetic sense. Kirsten Dunst was also particularly chic in a beautiful Louis Vuitton gown with feathered detailing.

Kirsten Dunst in Louis Vuitton

We regularly see 'the little black dress' on red carpet events, it's a safe option but it can also become predictable so it's important to have something that sets it apart from previously seen ideas. Miranda Kerr was stunning in Michael Kors, a sexy version which suits her joyful character.

Miranda Kerr in Michael Kors

But Jennifer Lawrence wore one of the most extraordinary black dresses at the Met Ball 2013 and Florence Welch was adventurous with a Givenchy Couture gown by Ricardo Tisci. This was also the designer chosen by Amanda Seyfried, who wore a silk printed dress from the spring/summer 2007 collection.

Jennifer Lawrence in Christian Dior and Florence Welch in Givenchy

Emma Watson, who stars in the latest Sofia Coppola film - The Bling Ring - chose an asymmetric Prabal Gurung dress for this year's Met Ball. This sought-after event is an opportunity to dress up and wear a long gown but there are no fixed rules. Is it possible to pull it off with a short dress?

Emma Watson in Prabal Gurung and Amanda Seyfried in Givenchy Couture

Gisele Bundchen and Karolina Kurkova were bold enough to wear short dresses and they both look stunning. Overall, this was a fabulous evening for the fashion industry but somehow disappointing as this theme was controversial enough to justify braver options. Punk is subversive while couture is all about beauty and craftsmanship.

Gisele Bundchen in Anthony Vaccarello and Karlolina Kurkova in Mary Katrantzou

When opposing forces manage to achieve a balance, then something incredible can emerge. For this suggestive theme, there's a particular dress that comes up in my mind, a Dior dress Gisele wore to Nick Knight's Masquerade Ball in 2006. Simply Fabulous! For further information about this year's Met Ball, watch the video on American Vogue.

Gisele Bundchen in Christian Dior, 2006
(photo: vogue.co.uk)

Punk: Chaos to Couture
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York, ends August 14th 2013

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Vogue Festival 2013

2013-04-29T20:22:00.003+01:00

This year's festival was almost like an upgrade of its successful first version, set in a premium location with a much larger audience and a wide range of key speakers from the fashion industry. This is a great opportunity to judge for ourselves people whom we can only perceive through the eyes of the media.

Natalie Massenet, Vogue Festival 2013 (photo: vogue.co.uk)

From the impact of street style blogs on the fashion industry to the secrets behind the success of a magazine cover shoot, many aspects were discussed and thought of by those who made it to the top. How to get there continues to be the main question in most people's minds.

One of the most influential speakers was definitely Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-porter.com and chairman of the British Fashion Council. She anticipated the evolution of e-commerce into retail in 1999 and after eleven years sold her business to the luxury-brand Richemont group for £350 million, while remaining its executive chairman.

Festival Highlights: Day One, British Vogue on YouTube

Her meteoric rise enables her to speak with authority about success but Massenet says there is no fixed recipe apart from being unique and to follow our instincts. In fact, each person has their own path and some manage to get there others don't, but what is the definition of success?

Let's look at two examples of the British fashion industry, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Both made it to the top, their talent was revered and their bank accounts had robust figures. But can fortune and glory define success? McQueen ended up killing himself and if you watch Galliano speaking after his amazing first show and watch him years later at the end of a catwalk, the difference is obvious.

Festival Highlights: Day Two, British Vogue on YouTube

Without wanting to get into the scandal that propelled his exit from Christian Dior, even though his talent is undeniable in both periods, the joyful young man of the beginning of his career was no longer there. Fortune and glory are not necessarily bad, Massenet looks ravishing and professionally fulfilled, but they are not reliable sources of happiness and do not define success.

It's important to strive to do what we love but how we affect other people's lives can also be incredibly rewarding. An enthusiastic debate with Vivienne Westwood, Livia Firth, Katharine Hamnett and photographer Tom Craig left no doubts about how fashion can actually change the world.

photo: vogue.co.uk

This is the way forward, a conscientious approach to both production and consumption. If success continues to be measured in figures, it's impossible to let light into the dark corners of the fashion industry and 'accidents' such as the one in Bangladesh this weekend can become inevitable.

Vogue's Festival was also brighter with other stars of the fashion industry such as Donatella Versace, Victoria Beckham, Mario Testino and the fabulous Alber Elbaz, Lanvin's creative director. Looking forward to next year's edition!

For more information visit British Vogue.

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Slow Fashion? Your Choice

2013-04-24T15:52:00.001+01:00

As Diane Von Furstenberg said, there's nothing like wearing a dress to 'feel like a woman.' Despite fashion's diversity it can be challenging to find an innovative dress which sets itself apart from previously seen ideas. Fortunately more and more designers are creating unique patterns and graphic effects to appeal to the increasingly fashion savvy and sophisticated modern woman.

Bottega Veneta and Diane Von Furstenberg (photos edited from vogue.it)

This trend has been gaining momentum since last season's catwalk shows and it encapsulates our need for a long lasting and carefully tailored piece, which will make us feel great each time we decide to wear it. Rebecca Willis wrote about the 'slow fashion campaign' on Intelligent Life magazine, gathering relevant information about what women really want from fashion now.

Mary Katrantzou and Felipe Oliveira Baptista (photos edited from vogue.it)

Even thought this is a trend, it's important to understand we have the power, we may read information about trends or seek styling advice but ultimately it's our choice. If we buy something we love which suits our body shape and lifestyle while also reflecting our personality there's not much chance for regrets.

John Galliano and Lanvin (photos edited from vogue.it)

Brands and designers do a lot of research about their customers and particularly today, with social media and other powerful marketing tools characteristic of our digital age, this dialogue is becoming more and more dynamic. We should never undermine the business side of fashion, it will inevitably respond to sales figures, so our responsibility as consumers is to buy only when we're happy with both the product and the brand.

Andrew Gn and Tom Ford (photos edited from vogue.it)

If we wouldn't have demanded fast and cheap fashion it wouldn't exist. If we keep buying more and more brands produce more and more, it's the basic economic law of demand and supply. It's easy to put all the blame in the big bad wolf of fashion industry but we also have to be aware of our role as consumers. What and how we buy dictates the evolution of fashion as a whole.

Paul Smith and Etro (photos edited from vogue.it)

If we would refuse to buy from brands and designers without having more information about their ethical standards in relation to working conditions and impact on the environment, they would certainly respond to it. Unfortunately even when child labour is reported in the media sales show no signs of slowing down. But greater transparency is not only our right but our duty to demand.

J. Mendel and Jean Paul Gaultier (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Visit Designs of the Year 2013

2013-04-19T15:13:00.000+01:00

After a much needed tech-free holiday, it's a pleasure to get back to work with the 'Oscars of the design world'. The Designs of the Year 2013, celebrating the most innovative international designs over the past year, are currently being showcased at the Design Museum. This is a great opportunity to be inspired by those at the forefront of the creative industries.

Diana Vreeland, the Eye has to Travel directed by Lisa Immordino Vreeland

From architecture to graphics and furniture, different categories are awarded for its artistic output. I will focus on the fashion category won by the excellent tribute to Diana Vreeland in the form of an intimate documentary. It captures beautifully her enthusiasm for life, visionary spirit and inner sense of style.

"She took fashion design to another level, reaching a wider audience and creating a greater understanding of the fashion world." Ilse Crawford, chair of the jury

Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina

Other fashion nominations include the extraordinary Anna Karenina costumes by Jacqueline Durran, who won an Oscar for her incredible interpretation of Leo Tolstoy's remarkable heroine. Another favourite is the refreshing Louis Vuitton collection designed by Yayoi Kusama, dots were never this stylish!

Louis Vuitton collection designed by Yayoi Kusama
(photos edited from vogue.it)

I Want Muscle directed by Elisha Smith-Leverock short video was also able to make it to this exclusive design awards nominations. But even though the winner of this fashion category was also focused on the moving image, this list featured a wide range of particularly graphic A/W12 collections by innovative designers such as Craig Green and Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons.

Comme des Garçons designed by Rei kawakubo (A/W12)
(photos edited from vogue.it)

Other selected fashion collections from this season include Proenza Shouler and Giles Deacon. Victoria Beckham was wearing the black Giles dress shown bellow on the Olympic's closing ceremony in London. This was undoubtedly a proud moment for the British fashion industry.

Giles A/W12 collection (photos edited from vogue.it)

From S/S12 collections, only Prada caught the eye of the experts with her brilliant take on iconic imagery from the past, making vintage cars and other clever design notes not only appealing but also wearable. Her video to promote this collection was also fabulous!

Prada S/S 12 collection (photos edited from vogue.it)

For the fashion category alone, this exhibition is already worth visiting but there are many interesting design aesthetics and ideas featured in other key areas such as architecture and furniture. We can also make the most of its location and go for a walk along the river... Any plans for the weekend?

Proenza Shouler A/W12 collection (photos edited from vogue.it)

Designs of the Year 2013
For a full list of winners and nominees in all categories, please visit the Design Museum. (On until 07 July 2013)

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Read Paris Haute Couture

2013-04-01T23:39:00.001+01:00

Fashion today is open to whoever wants to follow it, trends are becoming more and more merely open guidelines. Bill Cunningham speaks about the "globalisation of fashion" in one of his latest On the Street videos, with people adapting fashion to their own culture and sexuality, going beyond the "antiquated idea of good or bad taste".

Christian Dior and Giambattista Valli latest couture shows
(Photos edited from vogue.it)

This freedom to edit our own style should be celebrated and encouraged but if we love fashion it's important to develop our knowledge about it and learn from its ultimate heritage: haute couture. Anne Zazzo and Olivier Sillard have written a reference book spanning from the beginning of this exquisite craft in 1858.

Balenciaga, evening ensemble, August 1967. Gazar d’Abraham fabric, polyamide tulle, appliqués of taffeta flowers made from crinkled silk and ostrich feathers. © Katerina Jebb

Paris Haute Couture, recently published in the UK by Flammarion, takes us on a journey throughout the evolution of dressmaking, from Charles Frederick Worth and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent and Viktor & Rolf. This comprehensive history examines not only the role of the designer but also the relationship between haute couture and the client.

Carven, Extase evening gown, 1945. Top in cellulose acetate rayon knit, skirt in pekin fabric and cellulose acetate rayon. © Katerina Jebb

In Paris couture houses have always attracted worldwide attention for elegance and glamour. They were disrupted by the wartime occupation of Paris when private clients dispersed. The Germans planned to move couture to Berlin but Lucien Lelong, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, objected saying 'It is in Paris or it is nowhere.'

Fath, evening gown, winter 1951. Cellulose acetate rayon satin. © Katerina Jebb

This is still true today, the production of couture is important to the prestige of France and Paris continues to be its centre stage. Some couture houses lasted for generations others only as long as their founders were alive. While traditionally catering for wealthy private clients, they also sought new markets by creating perfumes and opening boutiques.

Book cover

By the late 1950s, the leading couture houses have become global brands. Couture will always be special, it's not about selling clothes but executing orders and as Hardy Amies pointed out "the whole process should be a harmonious co-operation between designer, tailor and customer."

Elie Saab and Valentino latest couture shows
(Photos edited from vogue.it)

The artistry and craftsmanship of a couture dress requires time, it's the opposite of the prevalent attitude of "I want it now". This focus on timeless and incredibly beautiful pieces adapted to a particular person is what makes couture unique and its precious legacy survives in the remaining grand houses of Paris.

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Red: Celebrating Life!

2013-03-24T19:05:00.001Z

Watching the latest catwalk shows for Autumn/Winter 2013-14 it's impossible not to notice the splash of a vibrant red across different collections. Raf Simons has researched Christian Dior's archives to revive the impressive red coat which was drawn by René Gruau in one of his famous fashion illustrations.

Christian Dior and Gimabattista Valli (photos: edited from vogue.it)

An iconic photograph of Guy Bourdin with red polished nails is able to transmit the incredible energy of this particular colour. Several fashion designers have chosen a bright ripe tomato red to dress their women for next season. But what's the significance of this colour?

J. Mendel and Versace (photos: edited from vogue.it)

Colours can be considered as energy waves, each with its own frequency. Ancient Egyptians and Greeks used colour for healing and colour therapy is often associated with chakras which go back to Ancient India.

"All seemingly solid objects in our world including our bodies are made up of the electromagnetic energy." Thelma Moss

Bottega Veneta and Nina Ricci (photos: edited from vogue.it)

The body is said to have seven chakras or centres of energy, each of them associated with a single colour. If the chakras become imbalanced physical diseases can develop and colour therapy aims to correct these imbalances.

During the nineteenth century the emphasis in science was exclusively on matter rather than on energy. As medicine came under the umbrella of science, it focused on the material physical body and interest in healing with colours declined.

Dolce & Gabbana and Vivienne Westwood (photos edited from vogue.it)

But it's interesting to know red is considered to be the first base chakra. This chakra relates to self awareness and to our basic human instincts such as survival. It is connected with our physical vitality, mental perseverance and passion. Red is a stimulating and energising colour which gives us courage and strength.

An under active chakra might display signs of a lack of energy, of not belonging and not being able to cope. You can boost your red energy by exercising, eating red fruits and vegetables, listen to music with deep beats and wear red! A splash of red can certainly lift up our spirits!

Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana (photos: edited from vogue.it)

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David Bowie Rocks!

2013-03-20T22:10:00.001Z

I've attended quite a few press previews at the V&A but never experienced today's media frenzy with TV crews all over the place and such a strong sense of excitement. This is the first international retrospective of the extraordinary career of David Bowie, an iconic figure and musical innovator who continues to inspire others.

Album cover shoot for Aladdin Sane, 1973. Photograph by Brian Duffy © Duffy Archive

Handwritten lyrics, original costumes, Bowie's own instruments and album artwork are just some of the many objects brought together for the first time at the V&A. But as the curators Victoria Broackes and Geoffrey Marsh mentioned this morning, this exhibition goes beyond the showcase of images and costumes to create a multi-layered experience of sound and vision.

"We wanted to bring the ground-breaking nature of David Bowie into the exhibition and leave the question about who he is open to interpretation." Victoria Broackes

David Bowie is, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

In 1969, BBC plays 'Space Oddity' over footage of the moon landing, a song about an austronat lost in space and a pun on Stanley Kubrick's 1968 film 2001: A Space Odyssey. This breakthrough moment was followed by a pivotal performance on BBC's Top of the Pops in 1972, when Bowie has conquered the world with his flame-orange hair, make-up, multi-coloured clothing and sexual ambiguity.

The exhibition features the original suit and boots created for this appearance on national television by Freddie Burretti and designed in collaboration with Bowie, who took inspiration from the costumes worn by the 'droogs' street gang in Stanley Kubrick's film adaptation of A Clockwork Orange.

Striped bodysuit for Aladdin Sane tour. Design by Kansai Yamamoto.
Photograph by Masayoshi Sukita. © Sukita/ David Bowie Archive 2012

Throughout his career, he has worked with many fashion designers to create his own style such as Hedi Slimane, Thierry Mugler, Issey Miyake and Kansai Yamamoto. One of the fashion highlights of this exhibition is the original Alexander McQueen Union Jack coat worn on the Earthling album cover (1997).

But fashion is only one of the many fields where Bowie has actively sought collaborations. From his music to album covers, stage sets and his pioneering music videos, he has worked with a wide range of artists, photographers and designers to realise his vision, finding new ways of pursuing freedom of expression.

The Archer Station to Station tour, 1976. Photograph by John Reynolds© John Robert Reynolds

Bowie's evocative narratives were fuelled by his intelligence, creativity and knowledge. Cultural references serve either as a backdrop or a turning point in his work: from Oscar Wilde and Stanley Kubrick to George Orwell, whose novel Nineteen Eighty-Four has inspired the dystopian cityscape aesthetic of Diamond Dogs rock tour in 1974.

"All art is at once surface and symbol... It is the spectator, and not life, that art really mirrors." Oscar Wilde

This is what sets Bowie apart, his ability to channel avant-garde influences into music and performances with mass appeal. If you listen to today's lyrics of top selling stars there's hardly any depth to them. Maybe this need to hear people who actually have something to say has contributed to the phenomenal global response to Bowie's 2013 album The Next Day.

Kate Moss as David Bowie for Vogue Paris and Jean Paul Gaultier SS13 catwalk show

Much has been written about Bowie's creative projection of himself through acting, play, imagination, costume and make-up but maybe this was his way of being authentic. He kept challenging our need to fixate and label others by always reinventing himself and thinking outside the box. How can you define the movements of a dance?

"All art is unstable. Its meaning is not necessarily that implied by the author. There is no authoritative voice. There are only multiple readings." David Bowie

Alexandra Shulman's favourite British Vogue cover and Gucci AW 12-13 catwalk show
(Frida Gianinni, Gucci Creative Director, said David Bowie is one of her greatest inspirations.)

David Bowie Is
In partnership with Gucci
V&A, 23 March - 11 August 2013

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Visit Dior at Harrods

2013-03-16T22:09:00.001Z

In 1953, Harrods launched its Fashion Theatre, inaugurating it with a Christian Dior London show at which Dior himself was present. The Dior collections were presented there regularly until the late 1960s. Celebrating the occasion, they have joined forces to depict the heritage of the brand while celebrating its new creative vision by Raf Simons.

Dior SS13 dress by Raf Simons, Christian Dior and Princess Margaret,
Miss Dior bottle exclusively designed for Princess Grace of Monaco (1960)

"We are thrilled to be partnering with Dior, one of our most successful global luxury brands, on such an exciting venture." Marigay McKee, Chief Merchant, Harrods

In 1947, Christian Dior presented his first collection and put the fashion world at his feet with his renowned New Look, accentuating the feminine silhouette. This is one of many iconic moments of the brand being staged at a beautifully curated space on Harrods's fourth floor.

Dior's New Look and Lady Dior bag

A theatrical composition of forty mini-Stockman manequinns boasts Dior's defining hits over the decades. Other highlights include the Lady Dior bag, named after Princess Diana. There are different sized objects playing up with our perception, we almost feel like Alice in Wonderland when facing a gigantic bag which is also a blank canvas for video projection.

Theatrical composition of Dior's hits

This ultimate Dior experience begins with a superb facade of 30 avenue Montaigne - where the Paris house is located - encouraging us to sneak in, revealing miniature perfume bottles thoughtfully displayed. Let's not forget Christian Dior considered perfume to be "the indispensable compliment to the personality of women, the finishing touch on a dress".

Dior Maison

A few hand-picked dresses are also on display, from a vintage 1960 Dior dress to the recent modern take on the purity and force of the Dior line by Raf Simons. Dior's silhouette is also depicted by an image stuck in our memory when John Galliano took over the Palace de Versailles for the 60th-anniversary collection, where supermodels wore sumptuous gowns inspired by great artists such as Goya and Velázquez.

Dior's silhouette

Gisele Bundchen couldn't be any more ravishing as she walked down the 500-foot catwalk. But Dior's universe wouldn't be complete without the women who are the brand's ambassadors: Marion Cotillard, Charlize Theron, Natalie Portman, and Jennifer Lawrence who looked like a princess on the latest Oscars ceremony.

Dior's 60th-anniversary collection

It's possible to watch a series of mini-films shot in four cities, each by a different director including Lady Blue Shanghai by David Lynch starring one of Dior's faces Marion Cotillard. Christian Dior also loved the silver screen and many stars of his time trusted him to dress their characters on film such as Marlene Dietrich.

Marion Cotillard and Natalia Vodianova at the latest Dior catwalk show
(photos: Michel Dufour)

Dior continues to seduce a lot of celebrities to this day, who gather in Paris to attend its sought-after catwalk show, embracing the brand's latest creations by Raf Simons. If you're in London or planning to visit the city in the near future, it's worth visiting this petit cadeau!

Dior's latest catwalk show A/W 13-14

Dior at Harrods
March 16 - April 14

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New Interactive Magazine

2013-03-14T19:46:00.000Z

Digital media communication is already upon us, most published magazines have interactive websites and special editions for iPads and mobile phones. But this is the first time the publishing industry combines all these platforms on paper with a Direct Response Publishing title: iLove magazine.

iLove magazine

We jumped at the technology enabling an iPad or iPhone to scan a code and start playing a video. This magazine takes this technology into a whole new level with each page being filled with interactive content. Readers can watch videos, buy items off the page, access a picture gallery, get body specific styling advice, share content with their friends...

iLove magazine

The magazine works in partnership with the Royal Mail to deliver a free magazine to an audience profiled by Market Reach. Much has been recently published about how magazine editors are changing their career to senior positions in retail, this is undoubtedly a natural step considering the connection between brands, media and consumers is getting closer and closer.

iLove magazine

Peer pressure is taking centre stage and social media is now the driving force of brand awareness and consumer engagement. This magazine encourages social network coverage and integration previously reserved to online publications.

Can this be the future of publishing? Is Net-a-Porter adopting this model for its upcoming print title expected to be launched in the Autumn? It's certainly clever to combine our need to feel the glossy pages with our passion for hi-tech!

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How to be Stylish and Stay Warm

2013-03-11T10:51:00.002Z

Fur is another prevalent trend just emerging from the latest catwalk shows for AW 2013/14. Designers have covered up their women in the most exciting pieces of fur, either as a stole or long coat. It's up to one's consciousness how to follow this trend as faux fur is always an option on the table.

Lanvin and Marc Jacobs (photos edited from vogue.it)

A fur stole is old school glamour, women look demure yet very feminine when they wear it around their neck. It's also worth mentioning how the skirt length has fallen bellow the knee or even lower bringing up nostalgia of past decades where good manners were still fashionable. Courtesy is always priceless.

Tom Ford and Emilio Pucci (photos edited from vogue.it)

When snow slowly drifts down just as it's happening now, there's nothing quite like a winter coat to keep us warm and fur details always give it a special touch and exotic allure, reminiscent of Russian Czars and historic figures. Tom Ford has embraced an almost baroque style using a lot of print and embroidery on his latest collection.

Roberto Cavalli and Fendi (photos edited from vogue.it)

When it comes to Autumn/Winter collections, the truth is fur always comes back in some shape or form. It's functional, protecting us from the cold weather and it's also stylish but the latest catwalk shows reveal an audacity to experiment with different patterns and colours. It certainly looks edgier.

Lanvin and Marc Jacobs (photos edited from vogue.it)

Marc Jacobs is now a designer at the top of his game and his latest collection has fabulous pieces where he has combined fur with sparkling fabrics. It's ideal for parties and events. We all need a bit of fantasy to brighten up our winter days! He also did a great job for Louis Vuitton, creating one of the strongest collections for the season.

Donna Karan and Louis Vuitton (photos edited from vogue.it)

But if you prefer the classic rock star style, both Marc Jacobs and Saint Laurent have produced the ideal coat for you. If you're conscientious about animal rights wear faux fur, there's still a long way to go nonetheless it's possible to find relatively interesting pieces on the high street.

Saint Laurent and Marc Jacobs (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Second Skin Stronghold

2013-03-08T19:32:00.002Z

When it comes to fashion, it's not just about the way it looks but also the way it feels. The latest catwalk shows for Autumn/Winter 2013-14 are now over so it's possible to acknowledge some key trends and one of them is definitely tactile. There's nothing quite like the texture of certain fabrics to let our imagination run wild.

Versace and Burberry Prorsum (photos edited from vogue.it)

Designers adventurous enough to venture into new territories, previously associated with vulgarity, have given latex a twist and turned it into a fashionable item. With all the financial meltdown still hanging over our heads, there is definitely a need to develop a thick skin to cope with today's challenges.

Jonathan Saunders and Paco Rabanne (photos edited from vogue.it)

Women emerged on the catwalk looking strong and fearless, revealing a strong femininity. Considering today is the International Women's Day and taking into account the theme for this year established by the United Nations - "time for action to end violence against women" - we definitely need to take the lead in many different areas of society.

David Koma and Simone Rocha (photos edited from vogue.it)

The world was shocked with gang rape in India but it has been going on for a very long time in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Rape has also been used for a while as a weapon of war in many other conflict areas such as Sudan and Afghanistan. This is an ongoing issue and women in those circumstances should be able to find ways of defending themselves.

Richard Nicoll and Burberry Prorsum (photos edited from vogue.it)

In the West, women have fought long battles to earn their legitimate place in society but if you take a look at newspapers, when suffering is portrayed there is often an image of a woman either crying or in despair. Considering the power of a country is measured in terms of wealth and military capacity, it's important for women to pursue senior positions not only in politics but also in the financial and military sectors.

Edun and Vivienne Westwood Red Label (photos edited from vogue.it)

No wonder designers have dressed women with a second skin, they capture their need to step outside the victim label and take the leading role as much as men in many different aspects of their lives. Leather is also key to depict not only women's strength but also their playfulness and sexual enjoyment.

Mulberry and Gucci (photos edited from vogue.it)

There are many inspiring women and some of them have the power to make us rethink the way we're living and look for a deeper meaning in our lives. We should find ways of making a difference not only within our own circle of friends but to the world as a whole. The first step is to get in touch with ourselves.

"If you get to the core of who you are my sense is you're going to surprise yourself." Vidal Sassoon

Michael Kors and Prada (photos edited from vogue.it)

Feminism has far too many labels and preconceptions attached to it so I wouldn't call myself a feminist but a believer in equal rights for women. We are different but need to respect and love each other, above all we're human. Nonetheless, women's gift of motherhood should not only be celebrated but also encouraged.

J. Mendel and Givenchy (photos edited from vogue.it)

At this moment, we are still pushed by opposing forces, career versus motherhood. Governments and society as a whole should realise a child properly raised and loved will become a happy and respectful adult in the future. Obviously there are exceptions and gay parents, single parents and other members of the family can also provide a caring home.

Diesel Black Gold and DSquared2 (photos edited from vogue.it)

Thankfully there are women who manage to have it all. If you think of the fashion industry, Carine Roitfeld is a clear example; Frida Giannini is now embarking on the family life whilst successfully leading Gucci's creative vision and closer from home, there's Yasmin Sewell. Happy women's day!

Jason Wu and Michel Kors (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Meet Julie Verhoeven

2013-03-04T17:35:00.002Z

You never cease to be surprised in London! That's one of the things I love the most about this city. When staring at Julie Verhoeven's illustrations at SHOWstudio: Fashion Revolution, I was far from imagining it would be possible to meet her but this morning she was presenting her work at the British Library and I was fortunate enough to be there. Come and meet her too!

Julie Verhoeven

It's great to be able to share such experiences particularly to those who are far away. As a true artist, she communicates through her work and has started her talk by welcoming us to her world with a series of short creative videos for the fashion industry. This happened after spreading a series of magazines, films, clothes and record covers on the floor transforming it into her own canvas.

Julie Verhoeven's memorabilia

"I've been a magazine obsessive since I was a child." Julie Verhoeven seems to find space in chaos and enjoys working while being surrounded by noise and music. Her videos are all about the theatrics of fashion, playing up with performance, characters and a wide range of visual stimuli.

Julie Verhoeven

She loves the dynamic nature of videos: "as soon as I put down ideas on paper it feels too concrete and dead. The way I work is very instinctive." But her work on paper is incredible, her signature style has caught the attention of different fashion brands such as Chloe, Versace, Mulberry and Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton. Spring/Summer 2002. Frog Bag.
Photographed by Mert & Marcus

When Marc Jacobs called her she thought it was someone having a laugh. Despite her success, her attitude is unpretentious and you can sense immediately this is someone who thinks outside the box and does her own thing. It's not just her colourful appearance but also an emerging inner freedom which reveals itself vividly through her work.

Julie Verhoeven and me

"Colour makes me happy." Julie Verhoeven

Even though fashion illustration is not as published as it should be, influential magazines such as Numéro, Self Service and Dazed & Confused have already graced their pages with Verhoeven's work. Future projects could include theatre and the performing arts. Apart from set design, she would also love to work with Karl Lagerfeld. We look forward to seeing it all happen!

Julie Verhoeven

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Fashion Flashback Success

2013-03-02T18:23:00.002Z

The first ever fashion themed Late at the British Library was sold out days before the event which shows the hunger for initiatives such as these. Curated by the students of the world-famous Central Saint Martins Fashion department, this was a promising evening designed to succeed.

Paper Fashion Show at the British Library

One of the highlights of the evening was an impressive paper fashion show by CSM Fashion Print students who were inspired by the Library's images, Japanese and Russian collections. The whole atmosphere of the building was transformed by the spectacular paper dresses and all the activities going on throughout the evening.

Paper Fashion Show at the British Library

People were having their portrait drawn by a fashion illustrator and a make-over with cosmetics brand Chantecaille, inspired by Cecil Beaton. There was also the popular photobooth where friends were playing around with different props creating their own memento of the night.

Fashion Flashback at the British Library

But the most captivating moments of Fashion Flashback were the insights into the publishing industry by GQ editor-in-chief Dylan Jones, fashion academic Iain R Webb and writer Camilla Morton. Fashion illustrator Tanya Ling, whose work V&A has recently purchased, was also very interesting.

Paper Fashion Show at the British Library

If you're wondering about what an editor-in-chief looks for, Dylan Jones revealed it's all about having an opinion and being confrontational. It's also important not to have a preconceived idea about the subject you're working on but immerse yourself totally on it.

"I was lucky enough to discover something I was passionate about earlier in life." Dylan Jones, GQ editor-in-chief

Fashion Flashback at the British Library

Fashion academic Iain R Webb confessed one of his favourite places in the world is Colindale where he enjoys sourcing magazines and newspapers to find information for his books. When he embraces a new project, he organises a structure for it, making lists of people to interview, drawing things and writing things down.

Latest book by Iain R. Webb

His latest book took two years to write and it includes original collaborators of Blitz magazine published between 1980-91 such as Nick Knight. The forward is written by renowned stylist Katie Grand. "Putting a book together is a very physical thing for me, the feel of the book is really important and it's also about editing and having the confidence to leave things out".

Paper Fashion Show finale at the British Library

"A book you treasure, you keep for life, it's like a friend you take home with you." Camilla Morton

The evening ended with Camilla Morton who has a vibrant and engaging presence. She trained to be an opera singer before going into fashion and used to write love letters as the character of John Galliano's fabulous collections for Dior. She speaks as a storyteller, recounting her fashion experiences with humour and grace. She compared writing a book with composing a symphony.

Camilla Morton at the British Library

It's important to have all the different instruments working together and research is also a big part of her work. She enjoys being shut away in libraries and goes out to galleries, clubs and fashion shows "where you see all these characters just begging to have their story told."

Fashion Flashback at the British Library

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Oscars Style 2013

2013-02-25T18:17:00.001Z

After the limelight of the Oscars ceremony with Daniel Day-Lewis making Oscar history by wining the best actor award three times and Jennifer Lawrence being rewarded for her leading role in Silver Linings, it's exciting to realise one of my selected dresses actually made it to the red carpet.

Anne Hathaway in Prada

But before telling you which one, it's important to mention Anna Hathaway who looked incredibly chic in a Prada gown and who was also one of the winners of the evening, receiving her first Oscar for best supporting actress in Les Miserables. Olivia Munn was also stunning in one of the dresses featured on my last blog post, a red strapless Marchesa!

Olivia Munn in Marchesa

But considering the past red carpet events of the film industry, both Jessica Chastain and Naomi Watts are consistently stylish. These women are not only talented actresses but they also have impeccable taste and a reliable team of people working on their public image. Hats off to them.

Jessica Chastain and Naomi Watts both in Giorgio Armani

After being the face of a Dior campaign it's hardly surprising that Jennifer Lawrence would choose the brand for the Oscars. Her gown was featured on my blog post about the latest Couture shows, a princess dress quite appropriate for the big winner of the night. Charlize Theron also chose Dior couture for the evening, looking as beautiful as ever.

Charlize Theron and Jennifer Lawrence both in Dior Couture

Amanda Seyfried looked very elegant in Alexander McQueen and Amy Adams's femininity was enhanced by a Cinderella dress designed by Oscar de la Renta. Pale colours are not as eye catching but they both managed to pull it off with their natural beauty and grace.

Amanda Seyfried in Alexander McQueen and Amy Adams in Oscar de la Renta

Catherine Zeta-Jones decided to wear a golden figure hugging dress by Zuhair Murad, which I have also selected for my couture blog post. Salma Hayek also looked ravishing with an Alexander McQueen velvet gown with gold embellished collar.

Catherine Zeta-Jones in Zuhair Murad and Salma Hayek in Alexander McQueen

This was another successful evening not only for the film industry but also for fashion and its ability to create goddess like creatures. It's important to refer the exquisite taste of Jacquline Durran who received the award for costume design in Anna Karenina. Even Tolstoy would be pleased!

Sandra Bullock in Elie Saab and Jennifer Garner in Gucci Première

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Oscars: Dress to Impress

2013-02-23T16:57:00.001Z

The atmosphere in Hollywood must be electrifying in the run-up to the 85th Academy Awards. An army of people has been working around the clock to make sure everything goes smoothly and the stars are now surrounded by an entourage of style savvy insiders to make them shine.

Zac Posen and Marchesa (photos edited from vogue.it)

Some celebrities prefer to wear made-to-measure gowns on the red carpet by embracing the best couture can offer while others are happy to wear dresses which come straight from the catwalk. So I have browsed the latest Autumn/Winter 2013-14 collections to find the most suitable pieces for the Oscars.

"In fashion everything - the entire body, hair make-up, fabric - is all used to create a performance. " Richard Avedon

Jenny Packham and Marc Jacobs (photos edited from vogue.it)

The shows are still running - now in Milan - but there are already a few dresses clearly conceived for a special occasion such as this one. The focus is obviously on the winners of the evening and the most successful box office films generally receive the majority of the awards. This is as questionable as the discrepancy between men and women directors and films could definitely be more diverse.

Versace and J. Mendel (photos edited from vogue.it)

There is still a long way to go but this is undoubtedly a very special evening, eagerly awaited by those who love film and fashion. Images of stars on the red carpet are shared instantly across the world as they naturally attract attention. You could always anticipate a high level of expectation during the Oscars ceremony but nowadays it's even more so.

Versace and J. Mendel (photos edited from vogue.it)

Stars are expected to look flawless and incredibly beautiful. It is highly entertaining but it's important to realise the illusory aspect of it all and not get caught up by the irresistible seduction of fortune and glory. We all have our own path and life is too precious to be wished away.

"I don't think any actress would say doing the red carpet is not terrifying. The way to get through it is to pretend. It's a fantasy, like walking into a fantasy world." Rachel Weisz

Marchesa and Jason Wu (photos edited from vogue.it)

Nonetheless, films can be powerfully captivating and a talented actor can inspire us and challenge fixed attitudes towards others. Daniel Day-Lewis definitely falls into this category. Above all, enjoy the evening and be amazed by how beautiful your favourite star looks!

Tom Ford and Oscar de la Renta (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Lichtenstein's Pop Perception

2013-02-18T20:30:00.000Z

He helped to create the hip New York art world in the Sixties, giving a face to an era. By elevating comics into art, Lichtenstein became the spirit of his times with incredible wit. Now we can admire the evolution of this amazing artist at Tate Modern, which is exhibiting a retrospective of his work.

Roy Lichtenstein, Oh Jeff... I love you to... But... 1964

Based on imagery from popular culture such as comic books, advertisements clipped from newspaper and telephone books, he has created his own language to express the world around him. At first glance, his art may seem slightly superficial but if observed further it unveils a series of discussions.

From confining gender roles to the impact of the Vietnam war on the American psyche and the consumer revolution, it is inevitable to see some open questions through all those dots and primary colours.

Lichtenstein initially made his own stencils to apply dots on the painting, one of his trademarks. They help to create optical effects and subvert the scale of objects, there's even a self-portrait in which the artist has replaced his own head with a stencil.

"Art relates to perception, not nature." Roy Lichtenstein

This exhibition features his homage to the artists of the past whether through appropriation, stylisation or parody. There's also a room dedicated to his depictions of the female body and it's interesting to know he didn't use live models but selected characters from his archive of comic clippings.

"We rose up slowly... As if we didn't belong to the outside world any longer... Like swimmers in a shadowy dream... Who didn't need to breathe..." Roy Lichtenstein

In 'we rose up slowly' (1964), he is able to convey a serene state of bliss which also exudes from his late work inspired by the simplicity of Chinese landscape art. This inspiring retrospective not only induces precious moments of abstraction but also allows us to travel back in time. But Lichtenstein's iconic work is paradoxically beyond time and I'm sure it will continue to inspire future generations.

Lichtenstein: A Retrospective
21 February - 27 May 2013

Curated by Sheena Wagstaff
Chairman of the Modern and Contemporary Art Department
The Metropolitain Museum of Art, New York

& Iria Candela
Assistant Curator, Tate Modern

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London Fashion Week Video

2013-02-17T00:35:00.000Z

All eyes are now on London for fashion week. It is exciting to be here and live the unique vibe and edgy atmosphere of this fabulous city! With Natalie Massenet at the helm of the British Fashion Council, the focus is now on business and new technologies, definitely the way forward.

Somerset House (on screen: Bora Aksu show)

Digital media is becoming more and more powerful and continues to change the way we communicate and engage with others. My latest video for this blog intends to give you a sense of London Fashion Week's incredible energy by trying to capture and share a little bit of its magic.

You can also follow what is going on and be inspired by British talent on YouTube, where the BFC is broadcasting some of the shows live. If you are here, the difficulty is to choose where to go when there is so much happening all the time, from catwalk shows and presentations to special events such as Headonism, co-curated by the BFC and Stephen Jones.

top: Piers Atkinson and William Chambers, bottom: Aurora Ozma

The installation featured emerging London milliners. Other initiatives to nurture rising talent include the International Fashion Showcase by different countries. I was particularly impressed at the Portuguese embassy by the work of Valentim Quaresma and Catarina Ferreira, both able to master forms and challenging materials in order to construct innovative pieces.

Valentim Quaresma (left) and Catarina Ferreira (right)

Overall, fashion is literally at one's fingertips, during the shows you can see a lot of people taking pictures with their cameras, mobile phones and iPads. Either for work or pleasure, social media has become pervasive in our lives. My only question is how frenetic it can be and how scattered we may become with all these different platforms requesting our attention...

Liz Black AW13/14 presentation at Freemason's Hall

PS
It was announced at an event during London Fashion Week that Christian Wijnants is the winner of the International Woolmark Prize. Read about him on the prior stage of stage of the competition on my blog post linked bellow.

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Digging Deeper: Scoop Fashion

2013-02-11T22:52:00.002Z

It's always a pleasure to attend Scoop International. This directional, boutique fashion trade show is developing further with the participation of more labels without becoming overwhelming. Inspirational fashion is paramount so you can expect different design aesthetics but still commercially focused.

Modern Love

Scoop style is wearable without being boring or mainstream, there's always something special that would suit independent boutiques and their fashion savvy customers. I was particularly impressed with the fabulous prints by Modern Love! This is definitely a brand to look out for.

Babe

Another favourite is Babe, its magnificent jewellery and trendy clutch bags can give a new life to even the most basic outfit. This brand is not for the faint-hearted but for those who love a bit of sparkle. For a busy social schedule, other labels also offer creative clutch bags, perfect for a night out.

top: Niin, bottom: Buba

Scoop is definitely focused on business, attracting a wide range of buyers who regularly attend the show to place orders and ensure an eclectic collection of labels in their boutiques. This event features not only emerging brands but also established ones such as Hoss Intropia, a classic for women who love something different without being over the top.

Hoss Intropia

Ethical fashion is often compromising, usually adopting a style which is either too retro or simply uninteresting. There is still a long way to go but it's important to acknowledge the effort of going against the tide and create something that does not cause any harm. This is the case of Beyond Skin, where you cannot find any leather but only recycled materials.

Pink Powder, Livia Firth wearing Beyond Skin shoes, Konplott (left to right)

I was told Livia Firth will wear the brand while continuing to embrace her green carpet challenge campaign so maybe the design will evolve in a different direction. It would be interesting to see what someone like Nicholas Kirkwood would do if he was asked to design a capsule collection for the label.

Angela Caputi

Scoop International Fashion Show is carefully curated and jewellery is no exception. There are beautiful pieces to choose from: Konplott is always inspiring, Pink Powder is gaining momentum and Angela Caputi is incredibly sophisticated. I also love this black lace dress by Princesse Metropolitaine although this label is more suited for girlie types.

Princesse Metropolitaine, Alice McCall and Sunpocket (clockwise)

Alice McCall is definitely more grown up with some really interesting pieces, it's also imperative to mention Sunpocket (no more excuses for destroying your sunglasses) and the quirky fashion illustration bags by Barbara Rihl. This is just a selection of what caught my eye during the latest edition of Scoop. Isn't it fabulous?

Barbara Rihl

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Man Ray: Capturing the Unseen

2013-02-06T17:23:00.002Z

We can now enter the extraordinary world of Man Ray, a visionary artist who continues to influence future generations. The National Portrait Gallery is showcasing an inspiring exhibition focusing on his photographic portraiture. His piercing eyes reveal a curious and highly articulate mind, a fascinating man who not only has embraced life but transformed it.

Man Ray Self-Portrait with Camera, 1932 by Man Ray
The Jewish Museum, new York, Purchase: Photography Acquisitions Committee Fund, Horace W. Goldsmith Fund, and Judith and Jack Stern Gift, 2004-16. Photo by Richard Goodbody, Inc

A reproduction of Kiki with African mask (1926) has been gracing my bedroom walls for a few years, I love her peaceful face and the way she's holding an African mask. So much can be said about it, this is undoubtedly an image worth a thousand words. It brings to mind how we tend to hang on to our shadows without realizing its illusory nature. Maybe it's worth facing our darkness in order to see the real beauty beyond it.

Le Violin d'Ingres, 1924 by Man Ray
Museum Ludwig Cologne, Photography Collections (Collection Gruber)

Man Ray's portraits can be not only thought provoking and visually stimulating but there's also an inner depth to them that is incredibly transcendental. He was a contributor to the Dada and Surrealist movements after moving to Paris in 1921. We all feel fascinated by the people he has photographed, just as Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris (2011), we wish we could travel back through time in order to meet them.

"We all fear death and question our place in the universe. The artist job is not to succumb to despair but to find an antidote for the emptiness of existence." Woody Allen in Midnight in Paris

Solarised Portrait of Lee Miller, c. 1929 by Man Ray
The Penrose Collection © Man Ray Trust / ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2012,
Courtesy The Penrose Collection. Image courtesy the Lee Miller Archives

Lee Miller, Aldous Huxley, Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, Marquise Casati, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Virginia Wolf... They all are a reference and as influential as Man Ray himself. It was a time when no one could take nothing for granted living life to the full, a breeding ground for creativity and experimentation.

Man Ray described Picasso as 'a man who reacted violently to all impacts but had only one outlet to express his feelings: painting.' Although photography was never Man Ray's chosen principal artistic medium, it's impossible not to be mesmerised by his ability to capture the unseen, revealing far more than meets the eye.

Man Ray Portraits
Curated by Terence Pepper
National Portrait Gallery
7 February - 27 May

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Fashion Collaborations

2013-02-04T23:00:00.001Z

Stars are definitely the designers' best friends, the latest success story is Rubin Singer, who designed the eye-catching black leather and lace mini dress for the highly acclaimed performance by Beyonce at the Super Bowl. It is thought more than 100 million people would have watched the show which is a dream come true to any designer.

Rubin Singer dress for Beyonce (photo edited from vogue.co.uk)

Beyonce does have a history of supporting designers on her videos, performances and events, both well known and emerging. She has worn David Koma and Gareth Pugh when they were still giving their first steps in the fashion inudstry. She also loves sunglasses by Linda Farrow, who has just launched her new website.

Linda Farrow sunglasses (photo: us.lindafarrow.com)

A-list stars also love Nicholas Kirkwood, this year's winner of the prestigious Vogue's Fashion Fund. It's another victory for him which will enable his business to grow into a whole new level. He has received the Accessories Designer accolade at the latest British Fashion Awards, having referred to his work at Philip Treacy's shop as a young man.

Nicholas Kirkwood and a selection of shoes from his Spring/Summer 2013 collection
(photo: nicholaskirkwood.com)

Kirkwood felt inspired by the surrounding beauty of Philip Treacy's fabulous hats. It caused a long lasting impact as he pursued his own path in the British fashion industry with a surprising speed. From Sarah jessica Parker to Julianne Moore, the most stylish women in the world have already worn his shoes.

Victoria's Secret catwalk show finale (photo: marieclaire.it)

And let's not forget the sexiest women in the world as Kirkwood designed the shoes for the latest Victoria's Secret catwalk show. He understood the power of collaborations a long time ago, having already worked on collections made specifically for selected designers. "These collaborations bring the right kind of editorial and press and they get people talking about the brand" he said on an interview to the British Harper's Bazaar magazine in December 2010.

Nicholas Kirkwood shoes available at Lyst.com

But the most powerful collaboration of all is definitely with stars from the film and music industries. Nowadays with the power of social media, millions of images are shared every day across the globe and designers can know instant success.

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Couture Fit for Stars

2013-01-28T15:06:00.001Z

Paris always becomes brighter during the couture shows, it's interesting to see what fashion can become without any financial constraints. Designers give free reign to their creativity and select the most exquisite fabrics and technical expertise to produce some of the most beautiful clothes in the world.

Atelier Versace and Zuhair Murad (photos edited from vogue.it)

Just as a good piece of art can blow our mind away without needing to own it, for most of us couture belongs to a fantasy realm where we are free to admire the incredible beauty and craftsmanship, even if we know we'll never be able to afford it. Valentino said "women want to be beautiful" and it's true, even men who are totally oblivious to fashion can remember a particular dress.

Valentino and Elie Saab (photos edited from vogue.it)

Fashion's ability to make people feel and look special is quite extraordinary and ironically becomes more vivid in challenging economic times. If we have to limit our purchases we tend to be more selective and choose something remarkable and long lasting, the so-called 'investment pieces'.

Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab (photos edited from vogue.it)

For some women in the world, particularly in Russia and the Middle East, this is their lifestyle and they always demand the best. So designers have to challenge themselves in order to come up with increasingly beautiful couture gowns to impress their savvy clients. They are also put to the test on the red carpet where more and more film stars wear couture, opening the door to worldwide scrutiny.

Giambattista Valli and Valentino (photos edited from vogue.it)

The success of sheers and see-through effects on the latest red carpet event - think Rachel Weisz in Louis Vuitton - seem to have inspired some designers to develop this idea further. Another success on the Golden Globes' red carpet was the cinderella dress and you could also see it on the catwalk. It was impossible not to picture Vivien Leigh on Ulyana Sergeenko's show.

Christian Dior and Ulyana Sergeenko (photos edited from vogue.it)

Couture customers also include a few pop stars who make millions a year and who also have to think carefully about their image and the way people perceive them. Music performances require elaborate outfits which enable stars to feel empowered and shine, so it's hardly surprising to see unconventional couture pieces on the latest couture shows in Paris.

Alexandre Vauthier and Iris Van Herpern (photos edited from vogue.it)

Also fit for stars is the classic black and white combination, always an elegant statement. Overall, couture is always an inspiring spectacle! Highly anticipated, these shows are the crowning jewel of fashion and as customers expand designers are also challenged to venture into new territories. The sky is the limit!

Giambattista Valli and Ulyana Sergeenko (photos edited from vogue.it)

Other related blog posts:
Golden Globes Style
Valentino: Master of Couture
Top Ten Couture Gowns