Focalpoint Renovations

DIY: Cool Hanging Light Fixtures

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 13 Jun 2015 11:59:00 +0000

I picked up a few cheap tea light fixtures the other day for short money. Tea lights are those short, circular candles that come wrapped in a metal sleeve which people usually use for either decoration or keeping food warm. The problem is, I don't really like tea lights.

Listen, before you tea-light-lovin' lunatics get on my case... tiny open flames as a form a light or heat ranks right up there with the bicycle as a form of high-speed transportation. Don't get me wrong, just because I don't like those little candles doesn't mean I don't like some of the interesting candle holders they make for them. There are some pretty cool tea light fixtures that I've come across that I think have potential to make for interesting lighting fixture projects.

Here are a couple that I found.

These are some glass bottle housings with the bottoms cut out and a metal base sleeved up through, ready for candles and hanging.

This one was even cooler. It has an old-school, handheld lantern feel that reminds me of Ichabod Crane. Don't ask me why handheld lanterns remind me of him, but in my opinion, guys getting chased by headless horsemen and handheld lanterns should never exist without the other when telling that story. I'm pretty sure that's some kind of literary law.

Anyway, first thing I did was to purchase a few replacement bulb sockets and cheap extension cords.

Each ran about $2.50 a piece at my local Home Depot. I cut the female ends off of the cords and stripped the wires back turning them into instant replacement lamp cords which could readily attach to the bulb socket.

The next step was merely to drill a couple 3/8" holes through the bottoms of these tea light fixtures. Hole size may vary depending on the bulb socket you purchase. Drill one in the center for the bulb socket to mount through and offset a second hole to slide the cord into. Slide the cord through the offset drilled hole and you are ready to attach to the bulb socket.

When you're wiring a 2 prong plug, the smaller prong of the actual plug is the hot and the larger prong is the Neutral. These fixtures usually have no ground. If you look at the cord, the two sides of the split wire itself are usually differentiated by something as simple as one half being smooth and one having lined ridges that run the length of the wire. This makes it easy to follow the hot or neutral side back to the stripped end that you will connect to the bulb socket.

The sockets I used have two screws, one brass colored and one silver colored. The brass connection screw is your hot. The silver is your neutral.

These bulb sockets come with a threaded end and a lock-nut to make installation a breeze. Pull the nut off, pop it down through your center drilled hole and reconnect the nut on the bottom to lock it in place from underneath.

The last step to use a little 100% silicone to seal the wiring into the drilled holes and protect the wires from chaffing, then just add the bulb of your choice. I tried to find some interesting ones for a more dramatic effect. Also, the bulb sockets I chose are switchable from the bottom so that they can be turned on and off from underneath once they are hanging in place.

So there you have it. Some very simple yet unique plug-in lanterns that are ready to hang.
See? Only a few innocent tea lights were ignored during this process. I'm sure they've found a wonderful new home at a baby shower or heating up fondue at a party you'd rather not be at anyway.

What Were They Thinking? Top 10 Building and Remodeling Mistakes

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 23 Jan 2015 14:50:00 +0000

Ten of Our Favorite Building & Remodeling Blunders

From across the internet

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#10: Missed it by that much.

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#9: Like a bridge over troubled... nope. Just a bridge.

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#8: Our local hangout.

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#7: Man~~hole~~...Manhalf cover.

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#6: George of the Jungle. Watch out for that...

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#5: Architecture by M.C.Escher

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#4: That should take care of your leak.

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#3: It's fine. I did the same thing with a tree out front.

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#2: Your driveway is finished, Mr. Knievel

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#1: You said you had a 'handicapped bathroom'...?

Daniel Batal is the author and owner at Focalpoint Renovations

How to remove a stripped or broken screw in seconds!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 19 Jan 2015 22:35:00 +0000

How To Remove A Stripped or Broken Screw

I have watched more people strip or break screws installing decking, cabinets, doors... you name it. A lot of them ruin whatever it's stuck in trying to get it out.

The one thing they have in common?

Most of them don't know how easy it is to fix. Take a look

6 second stripped screw removal

I know what you're thinking...

You're welcome.

Daniel Batal is the author and owner at Focalpoint Renovations

Does Vimeo beat YouTube for SEO?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 18 Jan 2015 17:44:00 +0000

Does Vimeo beat YouTube for SEO? Good question!

"Geez. SEO again, Daniel??" Sorry, but...Yeah.

Listen, part of being a business owner nowadays is knowing how to advertise and drive business your way.

For guys like me in the remodeling and renovations industry, all we used to have to do was drop $5,000-$7,000.00 on a prime spot in our local Yellow Pages and.....boom, that was our advertising budget for the entire year.

Why wouldn't you? It was delivered directly to every home and used by virtually anyone who had a telephone and a need. Even better, they would advertise on television, reminding people to "Let Your Fingers Do The Walking".

It was the proverbial gift that kept on giving!

...well, that is until AT&T sold its majority share of the phone book away back in 2012, admitting it was a "dwindling asset".
Sorry Old Yeller, say hello to the new phone book... it's called the Search Engine.

Jump forward to today and now we're all looking to find ways to get those Search Engines to post results related to our businesses.

One asset that seems to do well is YouTube. I post videos to YouTube all the time (usually embarrassing myself in the process) and they tend to rank well in Google search results, which is great for my business.
I'm fairly certain that Google just can't deny the sheer awesomeness of an up-and-coming film maker like myself, but someone pointed out the fact that Google owns YouTube probably didn't hurt either.

Please.... hater.

On my quest for film-making glory, I kept seeing videos pop up from a different source and decided it was time to take a better look at the another video-hosting website... Vimeo.

The first thing I noticed, with the help of my super secret-squirrel SEO tools, is that this was also a PR9 ranked website, just like YouTube. Can't do much better than that on the Google PageRank scale.

I also noticed it was pretty well laid out and user friendly. Another added benefit I realized, after a few uploads, is that it wasn't nearly as restrictive as YouTube had been to me in the past. Sometimes, I use a Creative Commons License bed of music in my videos and YouTube makes me jump through hoops before I can post the video.
Vimeo was interesting enough that I decided a real head-to-head challenge was in order.
So, without further adieu...

Vimeo vs. YouTube, let the battle begin!

I made a short video about an entryway remodeling project we recently did. I posted that video up to both YouTube and Vimeo to see how they would act in organic searches.

First off, I performed my pre-search ritual. I cleared my browsers History, Cache, Cookies, Site Preferences and set the search region for the United States. That means my search results aren't just competing against a local market, they are competing against the entire country for SERP (Search Engine Results Page).

Results always have thousands of pages but I don't care very much about anything other than the first page. Research has shown many times over that most people don't look much past the very first page of results.

The Golden Globe nominated video I uploaded was titled "Entryway Transformation" (Hey... a boy can dream, can't he?)
That was about 5 days ago, let's try typing those exact words into Google and see what comes up.

VIMEO

Well would you look at that!

My Vimeo video came up as the #2 result on the very first page and it's only been up for five days! (...and you laughed when I said Golden Globes).

Can't argue with those SEO results.

Hey, I wonder where my YouTube upload of the very same video ranked?

Let's find out...

GOOGLE

There it is, halfway down the second page. Still, not bad!
But, as we've learned... most people don't make it to the second page when they are searching, especially if the first page gives them what they are looking for.

How that happens is Google's biggest secret and why we are always chasing the elusive formula (algorithm) of exactly how they rank results.

So what conclusions can I draw from this?

First of all, my biggest conclusion was that I managed to target a few keywords in my video title that were seemingly open to rank well. I'm sure if I had named this video "Remodeling an entryway", I probably would have had a tougher time ranking well for a more competitive keyword like "remodeling" across the country. Then again, I did show how a local companay beat out HGTV and This Old House for that same word the other day. Maybe that's another experiment.

The second conclusion that I made was that Vimeo seems to be beating YouTube in Google's search engine results for the identical keywords. Mind you, the YouTube result has a much cooler tiny video preview window that makes the listing really stand out. I guess you have to expect that sort of enhancement when Google owns one of the products and not the other. But, I am surprised that Google didn't seem to favor it's own product in this particular case.

My final conclusion was this: I think need to start posting more videos on Vimeo. Not just post relevant videos, but with equally relevant keywords in the titles. The cool thing is that not only can I post information in the video itself, but in the description area as well. (That's the perfect place for linking back to your own website, contact information and other blogs, projects, etc.)

Now all I need to do is figure out who to thank at the Golden Globes Awards ceremony. Shut up, it could happen.

Daniel Batal is the author and owner @ Focalpoint Renovations

Did Google Lie To Us?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 15 Jan 2015 17:37:00 +0000

Did Google lie to us about the EMD update?

Ah, the never-ending hunt for better Google SERP.
(That's 'Search Engine Results Page' for anyone who is unfamiliar)

Businesses and website owners are constantly trying to do all the right things that will get our websites right up on the first page of Google when someone types in any number of search words or phrases that relate to what our websites are all about.

It used to be a lot easier before Google got a lot more savvy with their algorithm and began figuring out who was using tricks to get their pages to rank higher in these organic search results.

One of the things Google did was to target websites which had an EMD. If you don't know what an "EMD" is, it's an "Exact Match Domain". The idea was to put an end to lower grade sites that were ranking for search terms mostly because those keywords happen to exist in their domain name regardless of whether it provided the most useful and relevant information on the site itself.

Example: WWW. HISTORYBOOKS.COM used to come up quickly for the search terms "History books" but with this new update, those factors would mean much less than the actual content and relevance of the site itself.

Back in March 2011, Google's Matt Cutts warned viewers in a video that brandable domains tended to be the way to go. He said at the time:

“Now if you're still on the fence, let me just give you a bit of color, that we have looked at the rankings and the weights that we give to keyword domains, and some people have complained that we're giving a little too much weight for keywords in domains, and so we have been thinking about adjusting that mix a little bit and sort of turning the knob down within the algorithm, so that given two different domains it wouldn't necessarily help you as much to have a domain with a bunch of keywords in it.”

In October, 2012, they did exactly that with the launch of the EMD update.

But did that Google update really put an end to the advantage of the EMD?

Let me give you an example of why it not only didn't seem to kill the EMD, but it actually seemed to strengthen it.

THE SAGA OF A BOY AND HIS SEARCH ENGINE...

I was recently doing research to see how my competition was ranking and what I could learn from it (I own a renovations company in New Hampshire, so I was using the largest surrounding markets for comparison)

Here was something I found that completely shocked me.

In my industry, one of the harder words to rank for is "remodeling". Of course, my industry keywords aren't as commonly searched as some other industries' keywords, but there is pretty stiff competition to rank for them, nonetheless.

So, imagine my surprise when I found that the #1 ranked website (after the paid listings) for the keyword "remodeling" when search in the Boston, MA area was "www. remodelingboston.com". (Yes, I put a space in there because there is NO way I'm giving them any more power than they already seem to wield).

I should explain that before I do any of these searches, I log off of my Google account and do a complete history, cache, cookies and preferences erase. I want to make sure none of my personal preferences or past searches are being taken into account when I perform a fresh search.

At first glance, it sure looked like this was one of those EMD websites that we heard were taken care of so I naturally assumed they must have quite a website beyond just their domain name to be ranking so high.

This is what I found when I clicked on their site:

Pretty simple stuff as far as websites go. Certainly not the high tech website I expected to be crushing mine in the Boston market.

Well, we all know it's not about the look as much as it is the performance. So, two of the things we do know are really important are Content and Backlinks.

Let's start with the Content. Well, let me rephrase that. I would start with their content but... I couldn't find any.
I was able to find a one page description of how they handled 'Renovation Planning' but there was no blog, no articles or insights... nothing.

Certainly they must have a lot of articles posted on other reputable sites linking back to them?
That's what I thought until I used a few online backlink checkers to see if maybe they had some strong backlinks that I could take advantage of as well.
Here's what I found using a fairly common online backlink checker (www.ahrefs.com):

Wait.... ONE backlink??

How is this possible? It must be a fluke... right? I thought the same thing but no matter which program I used to discover their backlinks, there just weren't any significant backlinks to be found. I could see they were affected by the same Panda, Penguin, Pigeon and other animal-named-Google-update-rank-killers that a lot of us were. The few backlinks they used to have had flatlined into non-existence yet... there they still stand, top of the heap.

What I noticed next made me pull even more hair out. (Fortunately, I have quite a bit)

Look who is ranked #3... WWW. REMODELBOSTON.COM!

Another almost Exact Match Domain?!

I know what you're thinking, "Hey Daniel, did you happen to check out their content or how many phenomenal backlinks this magical site has?"

Why, yes I did!

They had three times as many backlinks! (*ahem* the first site had one, they have three. I'm really exceptional at this kind of math)

Oh, and just for fun... take a look at who they are beating in the Boston marketplace for first page Google SERP using the search term "remodeling"... just some other slackers named HGTV .COM and THISOLDHOUSE .COM!

Can it honestly still be so simple that as long as your website has anything to do with the subject that your Exact Match Domain name refers to, you still have a huge advantage over your competition?

Listen, I'm sure there is a very logical and rational explanation as to why these sites seem to defy the very logic almost every "SEO guru" has told us or even the overt hints that Matt Cutts has given us about the most important things being 'Providing fresh, relevant content and staying involved in the global conversation'.

If that's so, then I have a "global conversation" of my own I'd like to start; I invite any and all comments from my readers to help me figure out why these websites are still ranking so high!

FYI: If I don't answer right away... it's because I'm busy registering my new home improvement website domain, WWW. RemodelingRenovationHomeImprovementConstructionUSA.COM.

Daniel Batal is the owner @ Focalpoint Renovations

Ugly Entryway Gets A Facelift

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 13 Jan 2015 17:16:00 +0000

Here we go again! Check out this entryway transformation...

We encourage you to stop by our website to see our other remodeling and renovations projects!

http://focalpointrenovations.com

How To Install Slip-on Grips, Harley Davidson

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 22 Jun 2014 20:14:00 +0000

Disclaimer:
This article is not for those riders who think everything worth buying comes from (and is installed by) a Harley Davidson dealership. This is directed at those old school cropper, choppers & bobbers like me who do whatever they want to their bikes, whenever and however they want to.

That being said... *ahem*

Today I'm venturing even further off of the path that we've beaten at Focalpoint Renovations (if that's even possible at this point).
On a one night get-away trek to Laconia, New Hampshire's Bike Week event this year, I picked up a pair of chrome slip-on grip covers. I later discovered that the installation requires a minute of attention that, surprisingly, I couldn't find readily available via search engines.

So...I decided to post one.

How To Install Slip-on Grips, Harley Davidson

FYI: There are two types of grip replacements... The more expensive requires you to open the throttle assembly and reconnect the throttle linkage into the new grips. Not particularly difficult but, what we're covering here is the more cost effective versions that in this case require you to cut the stock rubber grip away from the throttle for installation.

I found an aftermarket pair that closely resembles the Drag Specialites Razor grip (which run about $110.00) up here in Laconia for $25.00/pair but only if you’re willing to take a razor knife to your stock rubber grips. If reading that scares you, you should probably stick with what you have or pay a dealer to swap your grips.

First things first... KNOW YOUR HANDLEBAR WIDTH. Most stock Harleys tend to run either 1" or 1 1/4". Mine is a '93 XLH 1200 which has a set non-original set of 1" bars (Thank you Chop Shop!). You obviously want to buy a set of grips that will fit over your existing handlebar size. Also, there are two sides to a set of bars, one being the stagnant (non-operational) on the left side and the throttle (operational) grip on the right.

The left is the easiest.

Depending on the grip adhesive used, you can most likely twist off your existing grip with little effort. The factory adhesive isn't designed to weld the grip on, only hold it there securely. Using a steady force, it can be twisted off by working it back and forth while pulling outward. Installing the new grip requires little more brain power than doing the opposite. I cleaned my bars of residue and used a small amount of 100% clear silicone sealant to adhere the new grip. There are lots of grip adhesives so this is a bit of 'pick your poison'.

The throttle grip, on the other hand, is a little more of a pain-in-the-butt. Start by closing the petcock from your gas tank, twisting the throttle even when the bike is off can allow fuel into a carburetor. I have to admit that I should have taken more pictures during the removal process but all I did was to slice the original rubber grip 5 or 6 times lengthwise and pull it back towards the farthest point of the handlebar using vise grips. A utility knife helped cut away the rubber from the inner, harder plastic throttle core. Think of it like peeling the toughest banana you've ever encountered.
I removed the original rubber grip and then carefully scraped most of the excess with a sharp utility blade. Once I had most of the rubber grip off, it was pretty easy.

It will look like this:

Before you start scraping, another important note is that there are ridges along the length of the inner throttle that allow the grip to maintain adhesion when you twist on it (accelerate). Below is the same image with one of the ridges circled in red. If you use a blade to clean the throttle like I did, try not to scrape those ridges off so that the new grip has something to grab onto.

Does that picture still look a little yucky to you?

Same here, but I also tried not to let my O.C.D. kick in too much while removing the original excess rubber and glue because I figured those lumps would actually help hold the new grip in place (which it did).
I just wanted to make sure the new grip slid on securely so, I used a 50/50 mix of dish soap and water to lubricate the new grip and slid it on a few times along the way for a test fit.
That's fairly important as well. You don't want to adhere a new slip-on grip without making sure it fits the way you want it to. Once I had it where I wanted it... I cleaned and dried both surfaces of throttle and grip and applied a small amount of 100% silicone sealant along the surface of the throttle, slowly twisting the new grip up into position and carefully making sure that no extra oozed its way out.

I let it set up overnight without touching it and....viola.

So, there you have it. A cost effective alternative to some of the more expensive Harley Davidson grips on the market.
Feel free to add any of your own personal experiences in the comments section below and try to remember to keep the rubber side down!

Can I Tile Over Hardwood Flooring?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 11 Jun 2014 20:21:00 +0000

We ran into this situation on a recent project and it seemed like a good time to talk about it.

Even though personally I would rather listen to Miley Cyrus talk about politics than to allow anyone tile over hardwood, the long and short of the answer is yes, you can.
The real question is; Why would you want to?
You have to remember that the same rules apply for tiling over hardwood as do for tiling over any suitable substrate.

Let me illustrate:

This is a picture from one of our jobs where ceramic tile had been installed over 2 1/4" oak flooring. We discovered it when removing the tile to install an updated tile.

As you can see, the tiles came up with little of the thinset mortar still attached to the floor. This is a perfect example of a poor bond. When we look at the tiles themselves, you can see that the thinset had no problem staying attached to the back of the tile.

After the tile had been completely removed from the area, this is what the floor looked like with no major scraping.

Barely any real adhesion had occurred.

So let's talk about these "rules" for tile installation. There are three very important things you always want to be aware of when you are installing a tile floor.

Rule #1: Motion is your enemy.

Anytime you install a tile floor, you want the surface you are tiling over to have minimal motion. If a floor moves, tiles can loose their bond and/or crack along with the grout lines.

Things that may cause your wood-frame floor to move:

Undersized framing: Older homes may have been built smaller framing than code currently requires. It bounces and flexes more than the beefier framing of today.
Wider framing layout: Another situation we often find in older homes is that the framing is wider than 16" on center. This forces the subfloor to span a longer distance and allows it to flex more than in a newer home.
Unsuitable subfloor sheathing: In older homes you may find wide plank floor boards, newer homes usually require 3/4" plywood as their subfloor. When it comes to installing tile, the rule of thumb is to have at LEAST 1 1/4" of subfloor sheathing underneath to provide the necessary strength. That means that if you have 3/4" plywood, you need to add another 1/2" layer of substrate over it to create a thick enough subfloor (always run additional plywood layers in the opposite direction of the previous for added strength). I like to fasten additional layers with 1 1/4" galvanized screws at 6" on center, 2 1/2" screws along the framing lines. This gives the entire floor frame every opportunity to lock itself together tightly.
Improper fastening: Sometimes the subfloor is not properly anchored to the framing and can move which can result in tile bond failure. Don't be afraid to dance around on your subfloor before you tile. Spreading your legs apart and leaning side to side like your trying to tip a boat over is an easy way to spot creaks and squeaks which can often be cured with additional fasteners.

Plank (hardwood) flooring is more susceptible to motion because there are many more individual pieces which can (and will) expand and contract at different rates. The only way to minimize this is to make sure the hardwood flooring is fastened as securely to the subfloor as possible. This means you'll need to nail through the face of the flooring to make sure it has the best chance of staying in place.

Rule #2: Surface must be clean for a strong bond.

Hardwood flooring is usually finished with some form of polyurethane. The nature of this finish will tend to reject things that are trying to bond to it (including your tile adhesive). To tile over hardwood, you'd need to clean it first, preferably with mineral spirits to remove any build up you may have on the surface. Any waxes or soap that have been used to maintain the floor over the years will leave a build-up that is awful for adhesion.
Sanding the floor with a low grit sand paper (30 grit or lower) would create a better bonding surface. Rough wood makes for a much better adhesion. Also, the less porous a substrate is, the harder it will be for thinset to bond to. Another reason a finished hardwood floor isn't the best candidate for tile installation.

The natural surface of cdx plywood provides a rougher more porous surface to allow thinset to adhere to.

Rule #3: Use a premium modified Thinset mortar

This is extremely important. All your other steps will be for nothing if you don't use a high grade latex/polymer modified thinset mortar. These modifier additives help improve the bonding and flex characteristics of the mortar. You can purchase liquid additives though I've found the high end, pre-mixed powders have excellent bonding strength when properly applied. Make sure you don't mix your thinset too dry. A drier mix can have poor adhesion. You're looking for a consistency somewhere between pudding and peanut butter.

In conclusion: Why we don't recommend tiling over hardwood

Having read the steps it would take to even consider hardwood flooring as a suitable surface, it's usually just easier to remove and replace it with a decent cdx plywood or cementitious backerboard substrate. The grain of cdx plywood is perfect for creating a long lasting floor tile bond. There are those that would say using a tile backer board is preferable but when it comes to floors, I still prefer to put down a material with the ability to carry more weight. Although backer board has excellent moisture resistant qualities, I can snap most backer boards without a lot of effort. Backer board is much better suited for non-traffic tile installation in moisture heavy areas such as shower stall walls or counter tops in my opinion.

So in conclusion; Follow the three steps for any tile installation, don't tile over your hardwood because it's just silly and always remember to floss! (That has nothing to do with flooring but my 8 year old son can't seem to remember to do it so, I find myself constantly saying it.)

Do you have a flooring nightmare project on your plate? Drop us a line in the comments below and we'll see if we can help!

How To Make Restaurant Style Hot Wings At Home

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:57:00 +0000

Those of you who follow our blog know we occasionally stray from the usual remodeling tips & tricks and get a little crazy. Today is no different.

This weekend there is only one thing on my mind: Football, Hot Wings & Beer.

I've got the football and beer parts taken care of but when it comes to wings, I'm pretty finicky. So finicky, in fact, that I started experimenting with making my own wings at home over the last couple of years. I've tried boiling, baking, broiling, frying.... but no matter what I did, they never came out as good as restaurant wings. Mine were always limp and lifeless, not crispy and delicious like the ones I got when I ordered out.

I had almost given up on trying to make my own wings until I discovered the "Double-Fry" method. It's pretty simple really but the results are spectacular! The trick is to fry the wings once at a lower temperature to cook them, let them cool in the refrigerator and then fry them again at a higher temperature to get them crispy.

Instead of babbling on about the process, I figured I'd just give the recipe & instructions and post a video of a batch I recently made. So, without further adieu....

Restaurant Style Hot Wings

Ingredients:

1 bag Frozen chicken wing pieces
1/2 cup Barbecue Sauce (I prefer Sweet Baby Ray's, great taste and comes in a lot of flavors)
4 Tablespoons Horseradish Sauce
3 Tablespoons Hot Sauce (Cholula is my personal favorite)
2 Tablespoons Crushed Red Peppers
1 Tablespoon Minced Garlic

(For traditional "Buffalo Style" wings, mix 3 parts Frank's RedHot sauce with 1 part melted butter)

The "Double Fry" Method

Fry for 18-20 minutes at 275° F
Let cool in refrigerator for 30 minutes
Fry again for 8 minutes at 400° F

Mix all ingredients together well, toss with wings in closed Tupperware container and serve. Enjoy with your favorite frosty beverage.

POST or PERISH! Link Building Etiquette.

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 12 Dec 2013 21:40:00 +0000

I love our blog. Maybe it's the holidays that brings out the love in me.

I know, I know... maybe our blog isn't as slick and fancy as TMZ's website or have the kind of traffic Perez Hilton does but, we do alright.
We have literally tens of thousands of visitors and we continue to grow daily. The bigger our audience gets, the more comments we receive. In our case, the comments people submit get sent to a sort of "blog purgatory" to await moderation. This just allows me to read and approve them before they are posted up, it helps keep the nonsense to a minimum. Some nonsense I like, but mostly from myself.

Some people like to ask questions, some like to say thanks for something they've learned but there are those who have a more devious intent. What's happened in recent years is that some SEO freaks (search engine optimization) have conjectured that using the comments section of ranking blogs to post their own websites and products could actually help their own search engine rankings. The sites and products are often posted in the form of links along with the comments, something a reader can click on which takes them to another web page.

Sometimes links can be useful

Whether links help them or not t is a different subject, what's interesting is the way people go about trying to get them past our moderation.
Now, I know that people are going to try to get things mentioned in there sometimes and I'm sure I've dropped my company name in certain online conversations so, I understand. I only ask that people read some of the article, maybe have something at least partially relevant to say and at the end of the day, I will usually let the comment post.

There is only one simple statement provided on our blog to give them guidance:

"If you're planning on dropping a link, be thoughtful about your comment or it won't be posted."

The REAL fun is getting to read all of these comments and seeing the many different methods people utilize to get their brands or items mentioned. Let me show you what I mean.
Here was a comment submitted in response to an article we posted about Cool New Tools and Gadgets:

"Nice post with good Gadgets mentioned. Similar Gadgets and much more are also available at iGadgetech"
-Imran39's Blog

Not bad. This individual gave us a small compliment and posted their own link. It wasn't completely gratuitous so, I let that one post up. I have to admit, it may have been that little bit of brown-nosing at the beginning that helped get them through.

But sometimes we get comments like this one in the comments to our blog about sealing masonry:

"Interesting Blog!!! Keep up the good work. STONERA Systems – Sealers for Stone & Tile are proud Indian manufacturers that produce a variety of excellence sealing products to protect and enhance surfaces including natural stone, marbles & stone. Sealer for stone"-Chandra Dsp

Um.... okay, so you already know I'm a sucker for a compliment but, seriously? A couple of nice words followed up by a paragraph about how wonderful your masonry sealer company is, links included?
Yeah, sorry. That's just a little too much SPAM for me.

But it gets worse, some people don't even bother trying to kiss up to me! (I know, right?)
Don't try coming to this party without bringing at least a bag of crappy chips or stale beers!
Take a look at this brazen party-crasher:


"Are you facing to plumbing problems?"
-Plumber Ipswich

How DARE you! Trying to lure away my customer base without even so much as a nod or a handshake?! That's some double D size SPAMitude.
You're are the Spamela Andersen of SPAM, mister 'Plumber Ipswich'.

Oh, and it doesn't stop there. These folks know more than one way to shish-kabob a kitten (I'm bad at euphemisms). Sometimes they attempt even more stealthy methods of getting their voices heard:

"How can i find remodel contractors ideas ,to make home look beautiful with bathroom remodeling, kitchen reconstruct etc.?"
-Mark Roger
This is the next level of sneakiness. Notice the words "remodel contractors" are a little different color? Well, that's because it was a link to a construction website and he's using those keywords in an effort to drive more traffic his way. He wants his company to show up in search engine results when people Google those terms. Does it work? Maybe or maybe not, but he broke the cardinal rule (no gratuitous compliments) and it looks like he didn't even read our blog.
(*Note: If you click it now it goes to our website. I wasn't going to give this guy any of my traffic. He didn't even bother to tell me how wonderful and awesome he thinks we are.)

That being said, THIS GUY's comment got posted:

"Great article! haha I love it. I'm not much of a do it myself kind of guy. I've been checking out toilet repair in Prescott AZ so I don't have to be in the same room as that horrible smell! Thanks!!"
-Spencer Shawn

Yes, 'toilet repair in Prescott AZ' was a link to whatever lump of dog crap he wanted us to scoop up BUT.... he actually read the article about bathroom toilet repair and gave me a very nice compliment so...You're welcome, Spencer Shawn! (Does that name sound backwards to you too?)

Hey I have an idea, let's play a game. It's time for another stimulating round of..... *trumpets playing*

"POST or PERISH"

(I don't know how to make trumpets play in the background while I blog so, just make that sound your head like I did..... or you can click on the picture and magic will happen. Seriously. Try it.)

See if you can spot which of these posts had just enough of the right stuff to slip into our comments section and which ones were banished straight to the recycling bin with the rest of the trash.

Here's our first contender:

"Hey there! Thank you for sharing your thoughts about masonry in your area. I am glad to stop by your site and know more about masonry. Keep it up! This is a good read. You have such an interesting and informative page. I will be looking forward to visit your page again and for your other posts as well. CMUs can be manufactured to provide a variety of surface appearances. They can be colored during manufacturing or stained or painted after installation. They can be split as part of the manufacturing process, giving the blocks a rough face replicating the appearance of natural stone, such as brownstone. CMUs may also be scored, ribbed, sandblasted, polished, striated (raked or brushed), include decorative aggregates, be allowed to slump in a controlled fashion during curing, or include several of these techniques in their manufacture to provide a decorative appearance. Whether you have a specific design in mind, or are just looking to spruce up your property in general"

-Jackie Champion

Did you guess PERISH? Yeah... I had to. Jackie started off with a lot of ass-kissing and boy, I sure was tempted. Unfortunately for Jackie, that full-on description of a product combined with sneaking in some links to boot proved to be his downfall. I believe there's such a thing as dropping a hint and then there's beating someone over the head repeatedly with it until they begin to make animal sounds.

Try this one:

"Can I just say what a relief to discover somebody that genuinely knows what they are discussing online. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. A lot more people ought to read this and understand this side of your story. I was surprised you are not more popular given that you surely possess the gift. Wachovia
Also see my website :: bad credit payday loans

-the guy

POST, right?..... nope, PERISH!

Seriously? Clearly 'the guy' didn't read my article. He doesn't even seem to know what the heck the article was about. He just a dropped slew of very vague references to the subject matter calling them "issues" and a very odd sentence about understanding 'this side of your story'.
What the hell? My side of the story... am I on trial here?
This wasn't testimony, it was an article about kitchen remodeling. If that wasn't weird enough, the bugger even had the chutzpah to say he's surprised we are NOT more popular?! How does HE know how popular WE are!!

He wraps it up with a lame link to his crappy 'bad credit payday loan' site!
Sorry, 'the guy'. Why don't you go post your comments to a more 'popular' blog that attracts bad credit laden jury members in need of a payday loan, you sonova...

*Deep breaths*....Sorry.

In contrast, here was a much more concise and relative question posted to what we wrote regarding tile installation:

"Can someone help me to discover more details about how to find a way to decorating my floor with tiles?"

tiles

You think we posted this one, right? Did you guess we also answered the question?

Well, you'd be CORRECT!
But, maybe not for the reason you might suspect. Forget the bad grammar, which sometimes gets a comment thrown out because it's too difficult to decipher ("find a way to decorating my floor"?.... yikes.)
See that massive space after his comment and at the bottom, just the word "tiles" underlined? Yup, you guessed it. That was the link to his own tile installation website. He not only tried to pass himself off as an innocent reader looking for some answers, but he conveniently posted a link to answer to his very own question. It's still a link to tile work, ours... not his.

That being said, I felt I had no choice but to post it up just so that I could respond to his request to 'help discover more details about decorating my floor with tile'

"Maybe try clicking the link you dropped into your comment? Yeah, I caught you."
-Daniel Batal

Oh, speaking of grammar, could someone help me with this one?

"I'm gladsome to mature so more serviceable and informative assemblage on your website.
travertine flooring"
-Rafael Oliveira
I.... hold on... what?... Nope, I'm not even going to try to figure that one out.
PERISH.
One could argue that this might conflict with my decision to let a similar comment through. He left what I think was a nice compliment before his 'travertine flooring' link but, seriously... "Gladsome"? That word sounded too much like 'Flotsam' or 'Jetsam' and I'm not sure I actually know what those words mean either.

Okay, last one. POST or PERISH:

"Hey! I am glad to stop by your site and know more about kitchen remodeler. Keep it up! This is a good read. You have such an interesting and informative page. I will be looking forward to visit your page again and for your other posts as well. Thank you for sharing your thoughts about kitchen remodeler in your area. Granite, cherry, stainless, tile… so many options…
we make it happen with you with a kitchen remodeler in Manchester"

-Jackie Champion

Alright, this person said some nice things and actually may have read at least some of the article... tossed a small link in at the end... it kind of within the guidelines for getting posted so I guess it's... PERISH!

Did you NOT see the signature? It's our old pal Jackie again! You know, I'll give Jackie credit for not having the full paragraph of product description from the previous attempt but I KNEW that name looked familiar and let me just say; I'm onto you, Jackie... I'm onto you.

Well, there you have it. That's the ridiculous late night game I get to play except there aren't any cool prizes to take home, only the satisfaction of knowing I kept the internet a little more SPAM-free than I found it.

In case I made it seem as if all blog comments are just people trying to sell or plug something, that's just not the case. Here's one from our Paint Color Ideas article just this past week:

"OMG.. this is wonderful. I always knew that Pottery Barn had a "look" but was hard pressed to translate it. And you use photos! Exactly what I needed (I'm a visual learner). Thank you for doing so! I'm painting my living room now (yes, 14 days before Xmas) and will follow every word!
Thank you Thank you Thank you"

Yup. That's what makes it all worthwhile.

Happy Holidays! ...(I'm watching you)

Brick Fix

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 06 Oct 2013 17:36:00 +0000

Here's a simple and cost effective fix we came up with for a gnarly brick entrance!

Pay close attention because this goes by fast.
The customer wanted to find way to fix this crumbling front entrance and make it safe without breaking the bank. We decided our cheapest route was to repair what was there and then build over it with something that was a little more pleasing to the eye.
Sometimes you have to be creative in order to get a little more lifespan out of what you have.

Be sure to keep up with our other renovation projects at FocalpointRenovations.com.

Enjoy!

How To Pull A Nail

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 28 Jul 2013 16:25:00 +0000

I know what you're thinking, "Oh come on, this is common sense! I don't need some supposed expert contractor to teach me how to pull a nail out of a piece of wood! I'm missing Rosie O'Donnell's latest puppy picture tweets for this??"

Well, you'd be right. It isn't rocket surgery... or brain science, or ... whichever dyslexic analogy you prefer to use but my point is this: Most people do it backwards.

Let me explain:
Here is an innocent piece of pine baseboard trim that was removed with the finish nails still attached.

I have to admit, just looking at that picture makes my feet hurt. I'm surprised I was able to capture that image without somehow stepping on it and puncturing through my work boots. One would think I have magnetic soles with my impalement history.
In any case, what most people do when they want to remove these nails is to pull out a hammer and bang the nails back out. Kind of makes sense, they were hammered in so doing the opposite would be the best way to get them back out, right?

WRONG!

This is what happens when you hammer them back out

See how the wood around the nail head has exploded outward as the head of the nail pushes back through? This happens because wood is porous. It has an inherent moisture content and when the head of the nail passes into it, the wood itself constricts and closes back around the head of the nail. Adding moisture laden products such wood filler for the nail holes and paint afterwards only makes it worse when you try to remove nails using this method.

Here is the CORRECT way to remove those pesky nails

Place the board face down on a clean surface that won't scar it and get yourself a pair of pliers or nippers. My personal favorites for this application are called Bullnose Dykes (It's okay to laugh, the name would make even Rosie O'Donnell giggle).

Here's what mine look like, all rusty and abused.

They have a rounded face and sharp teeth (much like Rosie O'Donnell) perfect for grasping a nail shank.

Now, if any of you have ever seen Clint Eastwood in Two Mules for Sister Sarah or any Rambo-style action movie where someone was impaled with an arrow or similarly shaped instrument of doom, you'll probably remember what inevitably has to happen...

{{{ WARNING: SPOILER ALERT }}}

Right...You have to pull it through.

This is exactly what you want to do with a finish nail. Grasp the nail tightly and apply pressure against the surface of the wood where it penetrates. What you want to do is use the rounded face of the dykes to roll and pull the nail through the trim board until it comes out the back side.
I will now attempt to use a series of pictures to demonstrate how that is done. (view very slowly, I need to go get another cup of coffee)

If done correctly, when the board is turned over, this is what you'll see...

An old piece of painted wood with a stain on it!

Well...yeah but, I mean there are no visible marks from the nail being removed. In fact, you can still see the the dimples from the nail filler and paint as if the nails were still in the board. Pretty nifty, huh?
As always, there are a couple of things I should mention so read the disclaimers carefully.

Disclaimer #1:
This method doesn't work with framing nails or those with large heads (*ahem*....Rosie O'Donnell) but it's your safest bet when removing finish nails from door & window casing, baseboards or any moulding/trim boards that you plan on re-installing.

Disclaimer #2:
Rosie O'Donnell is a wonderful and talented individual. Any references to her were purely to make pulling a nail more interesting than, um.... pulling a nail.
Be sure to catch her cinematic genius in such films as Another Stakeout.

Disclaimer #3:
Before anyone dissects my analogy, if you are ever shot with an arrow? Don't pull it through. Also, don't pull it out. Call 911 immediately and seek emergency medical assistance... unless of course you are Rosie O'Donnell in which case, pull it through with your teeth.

Oh, and always remember... If you hate it? RENOVATE it!

2 For You! Possibly Our Greatest Promotion Ever!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 19 May 2013 14:19:00 +0000

Possibly Our Greatest Promotion Ever!

Any existing Focalpoint Customer who refers a NEW customer to us is eligible for 2% of the total contract price for the new work referred.

Here are the rules:

-Only one eligible recipient per new contract work order

-Can't be combined with any other offers

-Percentage awarded at completion of new project

-All payments made in the form of pre-paid VISA gift card

-Recipient must sign Proof of Delivery form upon delivery of payment

-Focalpoint Renovations reserves the right to deny any promotional claims deemed fraudulent

Visit us online at www.focalpointrenovations.com for more information or to contact us about this promotion

5 Cool New Tools You Probably Don't Have

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 15 Jan 2013 01:10:00 +0000

As a contractor, I'm always keeping an eye out for new things on the market. Usually, I try to find stuff to make my job a little easier, sometimes I just like finding things that I'm surprised nobody thought of sooner. In that quest, I've found a few new toys that you may or may not have seen.
Here they are in no particular order and all of the titles are clickable links if you want to learn more:

1: Homax Tarp Clips

Anyone who's ever thrown a blue tarp over the bed of a truck or a trailer knows that those preset eyelets just never seem to be in the right location for securing it once it's in place. Either that or they've completely blown out from so many uses. This little handy clip from Homax allows you to grab any part of a tarp, bite down on it like a gator and bungee it to.... well, whatever you feel like bungeeing..... bungying? bungening... um, hooking it on to.

2. Spyder Jigsaw Blades

This double sided blade makes your average jigsaw perform like a scroll saw. The toothed back side of the blade removes material behind it allowing the blade to move through tight patterns without binding up. It can also cut in reverse. This allows not only for much tighter turns and cuts, but for a much cleaner cut which doesn't require nearly as much sanding.

3. Board Buddies

Kickbacks aren't just for politicians and sometimes they can be downright dangerous (ask the tip of my thumb, it lost an argument with a table saw two years ago). These anti-kickback, hold down rollers attach easily onto your table saw fence for added protection. Anyone who has ever had a saw spit a piece back at them can tell you: When it's you vs. the saw..... the saw usually wins.

4. Point-N-Measure Digital Tape Measure

Digital tape measures have been around for a while but this one is cool because it measures up to 50 feet and the price tag is only around $20.00. Also, this little puppy does the math for you. It calculates volume & area in square footage or cubic feet.

5. The Versacut

This is a simple idea but may possibly be the most versatile saw ever. The Versacut saw utilizes multiple types of blades and comes with three: A 24T Carbide Tip blade for wood, a 44T HSS blade for cutting through aluminum and thin metal sheets and a diamond tip blade for cutting ceramic tile and cement. Try that with your ordinary circular saw.

Wow, is that five already? Geez! Ah hell, I'm adding one more. It's my blog and I can do what I want... you're not the boss of me.

6. KG's Boot Guard

     Okay, so technically this isn't a tool but boots are one of the most important things a contractor can own. In my own experience, the first thing that goes on mine is the toe. I'm always kneeling down, bent over or somehow scraping the toe of my boots along the ground. Inevitably they get worn through a lot faster than the rest of the boot, especially when I'm wearing steel-toed boots.
     This magic elixir will extend the life of your boots by adding a layers of protection to your boot tips. The applicator can be cleaned with mineral spirits for future applications (1 bottle typically can handle three pairs of boots).

     And there you go! My 2013 list of top 5 6 cool tools you probably don't have. Know of some other cool ones? Drop me a line at Focalpoint Renovations or leave a link here in the comments.

As always, I'm Daniel and I'm a general contractor! <---- And wouldn't you guess it? That's STILL a link!

Cheers!

Evolution of a Fireplace

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 12 Jan 2013 22:32:00 +0000

Kick that cobblestone to the curb! Our latest renovation included turning a cobblestone fireplace into something even cooler.

Check out our the video!

Check our the video for our latest kitchen renovation!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 06 Jan 2013 01:00:00 +0000

Everything is better when it's set to music, no? Enjoy.

Our latest Kitchen Design and Renovation

by FOCALPOINT RENOVATIONS

Kitchen Design: Layout, Location and Flow

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 02:39:00 +0000

Kitchens... such a simple word.

Kitchens are places we used to sit around as kids while Mom whipped up some of the fondest food memories of our lives.

Kitchens are also places you could run into right from the school bus, throw your back-pack on the counter, whip open the fridge hoping to find something better than the left-overs of last night's "fondest food memory" (Let's be honest, even Mom got it wrong sometimes)

Kitchens.

Now, as a homeowner, kitchens are... well, they're a nightmare.

Everybody wants the perfect kitchen, you know, a place where your close friends can hang out when you have those impromptu casual Friday night dinners? Where they all can't stop complimenting you on how open, spacious and inviting your kitchen is? And how wonderful all the food you prepared looks under the perfectly dimmed lighting of the seemingly limitless counter space you have? And how your kitchen was obviously built to prepare the finest Cuisine... not 'Quiz-ine'...

(Please stand by for a word from Wiki-Focal-pedia)

Quiz·ine
/kwiˈzēn/

Noun
1. A style or method of cooking whereby guests are mystified as to what it could possibly be.
2. Food cooked in a certain way, usually lacking intention, skill or the necessary tools to prepare it with.

Synonyms:
mystery meat - frat house fricassee - sh*t-on-a-shingle


(Now back to our blog)

Well all of that comes at a price and when it comes to renovations, kitchens are usually at the top of the budgetary food chain. So how do we take our kitchens to the next level? And how do we do it without completely breaking the bank?

We start with the layout.

A big mistake I see a lot of designers and contractors make is feeling the need to move EVERYTHING around. Now, in some circumstances that might be the correct answer but often things make sense right about where they were originally intended to be, give or take a couple of inches.
Let's take a look at a project that we here at Focalpoint Renovations just completed. The original kitchen wasn't really bad it was just... (here comes my favorite word)... Dated.

Take a look:

Here's another view looking through the kitchen into the adjoining living space.The hardwood flooring was actually installed in the opposite directions as the two rooms met making each room feel even more separated. That bothered my sense of flow from the beginning and as those who know me will tell you, "Know your flow!"

There is a bank of cabinets on the left there that was half a desk area combined with an awkward wine bottle display above. Let me show you that.

Lord knows I understand sitting down to pay the bills could drive a person to drink but, I wasn't quite sure exactly what was happening here with this half desk/half wine cabinet area. What I did know was that we had some dated white thermofoil cabinets, Corian countertops and walls that were painted... um, I don't know. What are we calling that color, Blandberry? Mauve-itov cocktail?

This kitchen spoke to me, but it spoke in the Microsoft language of Windows 98. It said things like, " Re-elect President Clinton" and "What's this new eBay thing I keep hearing about?"

In any case, the homeowner actually really liked white cabinets and wanted to stick with that look.

So here was our challenge:

Update the space without making it feel like we rebuilt the same kitchen... all over again.

Oh, and we needed the budget to stay as trimmed as possible (that always seems to be the case, doesn't it?)

Step 1: Figure out what the customer wants and how much of the existing layout we can work with.

Customer requests:

Bigger island for entertaining
More cabinet space
Relocate Cook-top area
Update lighting design
Update fireplace

Existing locations:

Sink: Yup, that bugger sits nicely under the window looking onto the enclosed deck. You stay put.
Dishwasher: To the right side of the sink. This works great for the water & drain hook-ups and that's exactly where we will leave that little guy.
Oven: We have an updated, electric double oven that isn't very old, if we can utilize the relative location, we'll have our power requirements pretty much where we need them.
Cook-top: Sorry... you're in the island and we don't like you there anymore. You take up too much space and you have to go.
Refrigerator: You're in a tight spot too to the right of the double oven. If only we could find a new home for you so that everything wasn't sitting on top of each other.

The last request was to address the cobblestone fireplace in the adjoining living area. She never liked it because she felt it was bland, had a massive limestone mantle & hearth and she really wished she could somehow get a flat screen T.V. up there.

Beyond just the cabinet design, it becomes obvious they've set these two rooms up independently of each other. There is even a breakfast table with hanging light smack dab in the middle dividing the two rooms. Even though these rooms have no walls separating them, it sure seems that someone drew a line in the sand and never wanted the two to play together. If we could somehow stretch this kitchen towards the living area and make the living area feel more like an extension of the kitchen... well then, we just might have something!

Here's where we begin to see opportunity

We have two entrances to the enclosed deck, a 6' sliding glass door in the kitchen and a 36" french door around the corner in the living area (you can see the slider in the second picture posted above). If we sacrifice that sliding glass door, we could extend our kitchen cabinets along that wall towards the living area and even get that bigger island she wanted. That would probably give us even more room to create a new Cook-top area somewhere along the wall instead of the island where it was. Heck, why don't we just relocate the fridge as well while we're at it??

Well, we did. (Notice I cut right to the chase, no drama. I'm no Steven King)

With the help of our friends at Cyr Lumber we utilized DeWils Cabinetry and here's what we came up with:

A beautiful built-in, Thermador stainless steel refrigerator and a gas cook-top with a cabinet enclosed hood vent. (We can't mention the cook-top without thanking our good friends at Tech Welding/Mad Mounts for punching out the custom stainless steel flange adapter to pop that puppy in place).

What about that sink area? We left it right where it was with a couple of fancier options such as instant hot water, water purification and in-counter mounted soap dispenser to clean away the memories of the previous kitchen design.

Not everything got bigger, with the additional cabinetry, we were able to shrink the wine display area down to a more appropriate size, lose the desk feature and tie it together with a marble backsplash and beverage refrigerator below. Using varying depth sizes in the upper cabinets made the areas more interesting and got away from what I call, 'the bowling alley effect' where everything follows one continuous visual line.

Finally, this area says 'Entertainment' not 'Sit here and pay your insurance bill'.

Another upside of having moved the refrigerator is that we were able to slide the double oven a few feet to the right of its original location, incorporate a microwave into the upper cabinetry and open up even more counter and cabinet space.

All of these changes allowed us to build the real Focalpoint ™ of the kitchen (like what I did there?):
Our massive 4 seat, 10' 4" x 30" island. Fantasy cream granite offset in an antiqued black finish give this kitchen the much desired seating area that it was lacking.

Here is a view looking back into the kitchen from the living space:

All New Kitchen Idea Book By Bouknight, Joanne Kellar (Google Affiliate Ad)

The granite counter tops, stainless steel appliances and hardware, carefully located recessed lighting and pendants, and updated hardwood flooring (installed in the same direction as the living area) all helped to bring this room to life.

But there was still one element we wanted to take advantage of and that was the fireplace. It was a very interesting cobblestone but it was tall and narrow. The hearth felt very plain and the mantle was big and set fairly high.
We wanted to allow this fireplace to maintain some of it's original charm but I personally wanted it to feel wider and have more visual weight. We also needed to incorporate the ability to install a flat screen television so we came up with a fairly simple solution. Remove the mantle and the hearthstone, then build a surround that had some of the same character of the kitchen cabinetry. Installing an absolute black granite hearthstone helped make the other fireplace features pop.
The ultimate goal was to help draw the two rooms together and make them feel like one continuous larger room and less like two separate spaces.

We also smoothed out the ceilings. That circular swirl may have been fancy 15 years ago but now it just made me dizzy and anxious. Here's the fireplace before and after:

And here's what the two rooms now feel like when you enter through the kitchen:

Adding a dropped light fixture and moving the breakfast table into the bay window area of the living space made for better views and comfort.

Overall, we managed to make a lot happen by allowing elements of both rooms to compliment each other and taking advantage of what was already there. Part of me misses the 'Blandberry' paint? But then again, part of me still misses Nintendo and Doogie Howser, M.D.

Long live the 90's.

Masonry sealer: To Seal or Not To Seal?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 05 Sep 2012 10:55:00 +0000

Gbenga asked us an interesting remodeling question:

"Does an exterior sealer on a brownstone have any negative effects on the home?"

Masonry sealer can be extremely beneficial to extending the life of most man-made and quarried stone. You didn't specify the application, but "brownstone" is typically a form of sandstone. Sandstone is a quarried stone that tends to be particularly porous and can deteriorate over time when exposed to inclement weather conditions. Sealing any porous stone can only benefit its lifespan.

The only negative (or perceived negative) that we have dealt with in a masonry sealer is it can alter the physical appearance of the stone itself. Much like the difference between a piece of unfinished wood and varnished wood, sealer can darken and change the sheen of a particular material so you need to keep that in mind when choosing a sealer. Check out the image below to see what I mean:

If you have the option, test the sealer on an inconspicuous area of the stone and let it dry so that you can judge whether or not you like the finish much the same way you would with testing a paint color before painting a room. The difference being you can always re-paint a room, removing sealer isn't as simple.

I would also offer that before you apply any sealer, make sure the surface is properly prepared. In an exterior application I recommend pressure washing the surface to help remove any residues or staining. In an interior installation, I would suggest a mild soap & water sponging of the surface followed by a clean water rinse. In either situation, allow the surface to dry completely before sealing.

Always choose a quality masonry sealer! There are lots on the market and not every sealer is right for each application so make sure you do some research and don't swap quality for cost. A decent sealer should provide years of protection.

Hope that helped and thanks for Asking A Home Improvement Expert!

New England Style Steak and Chicken: Grilling tips for the Summer

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 05 Aug 2012 22:45:00 +0000

Well Hello!
Boy, It's been a while since I've posted, huh? I know, that may be a good thing. It means we've been overwhelmed with work but you know how much I love you all so I'm here to discuss a VERY serious matter. Something that seems to have been overlooked by almost every other remodeling blog this season so far... BARBECUE TIPS!

Oh, you think I'm kidding?... If you had any idea of how many people are brutalizing perfectly good cuts of chicken and steak as we speak, your laughter would turn to tears.

Thankfully, I've been taking notes and I've had a particularly good grilling season so far.
So, I'm going to go right ahead and share some of my grilling insight with you so that your summer will end with all of your friends asking, "Can I PLEASE get YOUR Barbecue Recipes??"

Here we go... nice and easy....

Get yourself some decent, boneless cuts of either Chicken (boneless breast) or steak (Sirloin strip). I'm showing Steak tips because we all know what a boneless chicken breast looks like.

Other things you need!

**Study this picture**... Nah, don't. I'm going to list most of the ingredients in the next few paragraphs. I just thought I'd make you pay extra attention. Then again, there are only six things in this picture. Isn't it worth looking?

Is that it? YUP! Those six ingredients (Salt excluded, I'll cover that in a minute) are the backbone to every GREAT marinade. Don't argue, just hear me out and do this in order.

You need to take the portions of meat you've purchased, remove the EXCESS FAT you see and cut them into somewhat equal pieces. Don't shoot for perfect sizes especially with steak, Just try to cut them into somewhat even chunks that you can work with. Bigger pieces will come out more Medium/Rare when cooked on the grill.... smaller pieces will cook more Medium/Well Done.

Chicken, you can go for a more even size cut of meat (because there is no "medium rare" with chicken. You want your guests to enjoy your barbecue, not be calling you from the hospital letting you know that they survived)

And here comes the marinade recipe:

1/2 cup Canola oil
1/4 cup Red Wine Vinegar
1/4 cup water (I love Poland Springs, Use something good)
1/4Teaspoon of Pepper
1/2 Teaspoons of Salt (this is actually a HUGE ingredient but everyone is so scared of salt? I'll leave it up to you to decide how much to use. I've given my input now run with it. You know what you like, let your taste-buds be the judge of how much you need)

You're done.

Wait... what? What do you mean "I'm done?? You have pictures of Oregano and Rosemary! How much of those do I need??"
Those are all just complimentary. Feel free to toss a shake of whatever you like into your particular marinade. I only ask that you taste it before you use it. Yes, I said taste it. It should taste much like a good salad dressing. I often like to add either Honey or Sugar (sweetness does wonders for a marinade!) to give it a little extra love before I saturate a good cut of meat. Meat is your friend, don't subject it to anything you wouldn't be willing to taste.

Like I said, you're done.
That's the basis of your marinade. Wasn't that easy?
Short sidenote: You should be very picky with your meat trimmings. Remove any excess fat your grocer missed when cutting your tips into perfect marinade-ready cubes.

Here's my biggest tip: Go get yourself some Zip-lock freezer bags. Take the meat you've bought and cut it as previously described.

Combine meat and marinade into neat "pillow" grilling bags AND.... You're Done! (Boy, I keep saying 'You're done' and continue to talk... I promise we're close to the end)

Here's what Steak should look like:

And here's Chicken:

Toss those Buggers into your fridge for a good 24 hours before grilling. Allow the meat time to marinate and when you think they are ready, cook on a hot grill at medium/low temp and flip often until cooked to perfection. Cooking is the second hardest part and I will cover an entirely different post (ain't I a stinker?)
My point here is: DON'T PAY FOR PRE-MARINATED MEATS! You can and SHOULD do this yourself!

TIP OF THE DAY: Make sure you "play with your meat" *Giggle*
As the meat pouches sit in your fridge soaking up the goodness, make sure to fondle them often and allow all of the marinade to work it's way through the meat pillows. You know you like it, let your fingers do the walking. Reach in often and fondle them to work the marinade through the meat.

Happy Grilling!

PAINT COLOR IDEAS: The Pottery Barn Effect

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 10 Jun 2012 19:08:00 +0000

Jennifer H. asked us, "What paint colors work best in small rooms?"

Unfortunately, Jennifer didn't send us any pictures of what room she was trying to paint

(it must be a secret... shhhh, don't tell anyone she's thinking about painting)
That being the case, I'm going to divulge a few tricks that I use to make almost ANY paint color look better.
I call it, The Pottery Barn Effect.

"But Daniel! I don't even shop at the Pottery Barn!"
Settle down...it's okay, neither do I. What I'm referring to is something I noticed years ago in the way Pottery barn presents its products in its advertising.
Here, let me pull up a few images:

Okay, I'm surrounded by a bunch of 'Pottery Barn-esque' pictures. Keep in mind, not every color shown is a particular favorite of mine but they don't have to be. The images are designed to do one thing,
Make The Furniture Look Good.

The interesting thing I started to notice many years ago is that they use a very specific design style in a lot of their catalogs. Look past the furniture and focus just on the rooms, there are a few elements they tend incorporate in the background to help make their furniture look its best.
Notice any similarities yet? Here's what I noticed:

Most of the rooms that have "The Pottery Barn Effect" usually have flat white ceilings as well.
For some reason, I've chosen not to show any examples of that in these pictures.

I blame Jennifer H. She started this whole
let's-not-submit-photos thing. I just didn't want her to feel left out.
Do those elements really make THAT much of a difference? Well, you decide. Take a look at the image below.

How many of you have seen or own a living space like this?

I'm sorry but, 1982 called and wants their everything back. Golden oak stain on the stairs, chair rails, baseboards, doors & windows.... don't stare at that picture too long, I think it comes with a Surgeon General's warning.
There is just nothing inviting about those harsh, dark, trim lines breaking up every single visual aspect of the room. It kind of reminds me of my parents old Country Squire station wagon.

Another open living space with "The Pottery Barn Effect"

Doesn't that just make your stomach feel a little better? (I know, you're welcome)
So how do we quickly achieve this effect?

Here are a couple of simple rules to follow when updating a room for paint

TRIM

Replace any existing baseboard, door & window casings with wider trim.

A lot of houses come with a traditional 2 1/2" colonial molding, try stepping it up to a 3 1/2" or maybe a belly-mold with bulls-eyes.
What's a belly mold?

Oops, that's a different type of belly mold

Here it is

They work great with bulls-eye corner blocks for some real extra flair. Also, there are a lot of taller baseboard moldings available. I personally like updating the old colonial baseboard to a 5 1/4" Speed Base.

PAINT

Use semi-gloss white paint for the trim.
When choosing a trim paint, most use either oil or latex (acrylic). Oil paint gives a smoother finish but can sag if applied to heavily. It can take more coats to cover and is harder to clean up as well. Latex paint works well but can show more brush marks as it dries faster. The upside is that it cleans up very easily with water. Either works, pick your poison.
When it comes to wall color, It's all about personal preference but if you frame it in white trim? I guarantee it'll look a lot more like the magazines you probably first saw the color in.

When choosing a wall paint, USE LATEX FLAT ENAMEL.

Paint comes in a lot of different sheens such as:

Gloss
Semi-gloss
Eggshell
Satin
Flat

and the one sheen we can never seem get away from.....

When you're painting interior walls, 99% of the time these walls (much like Charlie Sheen) are NOT going to be perfect. They never are, learn to accept it (Charlie has). Walls are usually built over wooden studs which crown, twist and bend. The seams of most wallboard are hand smoothed with either plaster or joint compound. Even the best plastered wall rarely holds up to a straight-edge.
Here's the problem: Higher gloss paints reflect light and when light hits those newly painted walls?
You guessed it... you see the imperfections.

Walls painted with a FLAT paint aren't nearly as reflective so they do a great job of hiding a lot of those little inconsistencies which will help your walls appear smooth and give your room a cleaner look. The reason I suggest flat ENAMEL is because certain walls tend to get more abuse.
In the past, a lot of painters would use an Eggshell paint in bathrooms & bedrooms. It was more durable and helped protect against the higher humidity you find in bathrooms and also in places where little hand-prints had a tendency to show up on walls.
Enamel paint has a lot of the same durability qualities as an Eggshell but none of it's reflective qualities so you can still scrub it a bit without pulling the paint off of the wall or ruining the finish.

When it comes to paint manufacturers, I was always a Benjamin Moore fan. Sherman Williams was a close second but since Home Depot acquired Behr Paints, they've made a lot of effort to make it a worthy competitor at a reasonable price. I've had great success using the Behr premium interior as well as exterior lines of paint. Their Premium Plus Ultra all-in-one primer & paint makes a lot of tough walls very easy to cover with only a couple of coats, a helpful quality for amateur painters.

Lastly, when it comes to ceilings? I always prefer flat white.
It keeps the room feeling open and airy which is especially helpful in a room with a lower ceiling height. Try to use a decent grade of ceiling paint so that it won't take as many coats to make your roller marks disappear.

LET'S REVIEW!

Wide trim in semi-gloss white
Flat enamel latex walls
Flat white ceilings

Hey, guess what? You've learned the secrets of The Pottery Barn Effect!
Make sure all of your outlets, receptacles and switch plates are all updated in white as well to tie the room together.

If you don't have any experience replacing outlets or switches, I always suggest you call a professional or Ask A Home Improvement Expert!
Jennifer H., I hope that answered your question and I really hope the ugly room picture I posted wasn't your house. Actually? I hope it was... someone seriously needs to paint that room.

-Cheers!

FLOOR TILE: Does SIZE matter?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 20 May 2012 17:51:00 +0000

Janice T. sent this question to Ask A Home Improvement Expert:

"We've been thinking about changing the tile in our bathroom but we aren't sure which size tile we should use. Is smaller tile better for a bathroom?"

That's a great question!.... and it's nice to finally have a woman ask a man if size matters.
My personal opinion is that the more grout lines you have, the busier a floor looks. A lot of people grew up looking at their parents bathrooms with tiny mosaic tiles and mauve colored fixtures.
You've seen how your parents used to dress, do you really want to use their sense of style as a point of reference?

{{{shiver}}} Yikes......Anyway, I always start by trying to use the largest tile I can in a given room. The reason I start here as I said, is that more grout lines make a floor look busier and unfortunately
Busier = Smaller. I don't want a small room to feel even smaller, I want it to feel spacious and open. Larger tiles can make a small bathroom feel bigger. There is no rule saying you can't use 18" x 18" tiles in a 50 sq. ft. bathroom. It's all about the look you are trying to create. However! There are a few issues that can potentially sway the choice of tile size that you should always take into account.

How level are your floors?

Run a level over your floor before you make any decisions to spot the inconsistencies in your floor and to see which way it may be pitching. Smaller tiles have the ability to conform to these inconsistencies. In a perfect world, you'd never want to have a floor with a lot of pitches and rolls but often in homes that are 150-200 years old, the best you can hope for is to minimize the motion of the floor. If you tried to get it back to perfectly level, you'd likely end up with a floor that's much higher in some areas than you want. This is especially troublesome when the doorway transition ends up being over an inch out of level (unless you enjoy watching your friends trip in and out of your bathroom). In these cases, we are try to get the floor to be as FLAT as possible... not as LEVEL.
Larger tiles such as an 18" x 18" are more difficult to lay flat due to the fact that each tile covers so much floor space. If the area you're working is a little higher in the middle of where a tile lands, you may find that corners of your tiles are left sitting up higher than you would like. Sometimes adjusting the layout of where your grout lines will land can help work around some of these problem areas.

Desired Effect

Is there any other tile in your room? If there is a specific tile pattern on your walls or shower, it may dictate how you want to approach your floor. There are common styles that people are trying to recreate or achieve that can help determine the floor tile. For example, A subway wall pattern: We often see a smaller mosaic tile pattern with subway-style tiled walls.

There are no hard and fast rules but, there are applications that you may have seen and are subconsciously trying to recreate.

If you are simply looking to update your floor, I would suggest picking color before size. It's often more important to get the color you desire and you may find that the color you love? Isn't available in every size and shape. Your question may be answered before you ask it!

Bathroom usage

Is this a bathroom that gets a lot of family use? If it is, I would point out that for every grout line you create is also one you need to maintain. Grout needs to be cleaned and sealed according to usage, sometimes as often as once a year. A full bathroom with 5 family members and a dog that you can't seem to keep clean no matter how many times you wrap him in plastic, will be subject to more water and soil on the floor than a half-bath connected to a guest room. (I'm kidding, don't wrap your dog in plastic.....kids are optional)
Fewer grout lines can also mean fewer possible areas for moisture to get through to the substrate if those grout lines ever open up over time. Remember: More grout lines = More maintenance.

Grout color

Grout color will affect your choice as well. There are two ways to go with grout color, one that blends or one that pops. Both have their advantages in certain situations but more often I try to find a grout color that blends with the color of the tile itself. This helps keep whatever floor tile I choose feeling like one consistent floor not like a bunch of smaller pieces. I see this mistake a lot, a bad grout color choice making a floor look too broken up. Example:

I also tend to avoid very light grout colors in favor of more neutrals because lighter grout colors are much more difficult to maintain and they discolor quickly. I only use white & off-white grout when it's specific to the effect the customer desires. Which brings me to my last point:

Personal preference

What do you like? I always ask potential customers to pick out a few pictures of bathroom floors that they think are cool. When a customer shows me three pictures of bathrooms all with larger style tiles or perhaps all with a particular pattern, it makes finding their solution simpler. Sometimes I even find they don't like the floors they've shown me at all, they actually like the color, layout or style of a room. It's important that whatever you pick works with the room itself and when in doubt? I would suggest that something simple, clean and neutral often works better than something bold and intricate. It also allows you to update other elements of the room over time without limiting your choices.

So, there are no universal answers but there are certainly considerations in making your choice. Try to ask yourself these questions before you make a decision or Ask A Home Improvement Expert!

As always, I'm Daniel and I'm a General Contractor. (<--- and that's still a link)

-Cheers!

CAPTCHA: Why Do You Hate Me?

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 06 May 2012 15:14:00 +0000

I remember a simpler time when the worst thing about spam was how to get it out of the can. Apparently, it's a much bigger problem now because every time I try to do anything online I get hit with a CAPTCHA. It stands for "Completely Automated Public Turing test to tell Computers and Humans Apart" and it was designed to cut down on SPAM (flooding the internet with copies of the same message). It stops software programs from abusing services and minimizes automated postings to blogs and such.

You've all seen them. That tiny box of fuzzy words that you have to type in to virtually everything nowadays. It's sole purpose is to prove that you're an actual human being to complete your submission. Wonderful.

Here's my problem:

I'M HUMAN AND I CAN'T TELL WHAT THOSE WORDS ARE!

Let me give you a window into the hell that is my life. Just this morning, I was downloading a picture to use for an article and I was hit with this CAPTCHA:

Okay, this is no problem. It looks like "i" then.... wait, is that an "o"? I think it is. What if it isn't? I don't want to get this wrong and have to retype my information.
Hang on, they have a little recycle button just to the right of the submission box. Let me hit that and get new words:

Huh? Why are those numbers are upside down? Do I type them in that order or am I supposed to flip them and type them in the other way? Hang on, let me get a new one:

Whoa! What's that inkblot on the right? How do I.... is that....... am I supposed to type that? Im really confused, this is starting to feel like a Rorschach Test.
Wait, there is a little speaker button there! Will that let me HEAR what I'm supposed to type? That's perfect! Let me hit that button....

SATANIC-BACKWARDS-MASKING-EVIL-IS-UPON-US-I-HEAR-DEAD-PEOPLE!!!

OH MY GOD!!............... That was a HUGE mistake!!............................Let's just stick to the letters!

*hitting the recycle button again*

Come On!! I don't even know what language that second part is! Do I even have a key on my keyboard for that?? NEXT!

ARE YOU SERIOUS RIGHT NOW?? What the HELL is that?! That's not even a word, its a PICTURE!! Is that a building?? Do I type in "building"?? Why is it so out of focus and why are they showing me pictures?! NEXT!!

STOP!! I can read it!! YES! Oh dear Lord thank you.... Thank you!.... Stay right there, let me just type that in, 'passage toniets'.....

"Incorrect security code entered, please try again"

Wait, what?? Oh God no... I typed it in wrong! I had the perfect CAPTCHA and I blew it! I BLEW IT!! Please, please, please.... I'm begging you, give me another easy one. I won't ever talk bad about CAPTCHA again if you just give me one more easy one..... pretty please......

*Hitting recycle with my eyes shut*

........... I so hate you right now......................

Daniel Batal is a Remodeling Contractor and owner at Focalpoint Renovations

Image: David Castillo Dominici / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

7 Amazing Gadgets You Must Have!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 02 May 2012 16:37:00 +0000

What does a Contractor do on a very rainy Wednesday morning? He surfs the internet and finds the coolest stuff ever and shares it with you! May I present my Top 7 in no particular order (I thought five wasn't enough and ten was just plain excessive...)

The Jellyfish Aquarium

Forget the shark tank, here's a 7 gallon acrylic tank that comes with it's own built in lighting and filtration system from Jelly Fish Art. The entry level package with one moon jellyfish and a 3 month supply of food starts at $382.00, but if your wallet is feeling particularly fat, you can opt for the $709.00 deluxe package.
Deluxe package Includes:

Desktop Jellyfish Tank
3× Large Moon Jellyfish
12 Month Food Supply
2× Red Leg Hermit Crab
2× Cleaner Snail
Algae Cleaner Magnet
Water Quality Test Kit
Aquarium Salt (10 Gal)
Water Heater
Floating Thermometer
Nutrafin Cycle 1oz
Clear Vacuum Hose
Substrate

No mention of having a second person to pee on you in case you get stung.... It would be worth having just to say to people, "I have to get home to feed my jellyfish" and watch the expressions on their faces. In fact, you could capture those expressions with this...

iPhone Tri-lens

If you're an aspiring photographer or just want to make your iPhone look like it's having its eyes checked.... this quirky little device from Photojojo might rank high on your list of 'must-haves'. The iPhone lens dial spins to offer three optical-quality coated glass lenses: Telephoto, Wide Angle and Fish-eye. The aluminum housing also comes equipped with a tripod mount for landscape and portrait shots. Priced at $249.00 (that's only $83/lens if you're trying to justify buying one) Or maybe you prefer something a little more silly...

BANG! (Shoot the light out)

My girlfriend spotted this one from Bitplay. It's as simple as it looks. This desk lamp comes with a gun shaped remote that you "shoot" the light on and off with. When the lamp is shot to OFF, the lampshade tilts to the side in its "wounded" position.... The shade stands back up and the light comes on when in reverse. All this fun can be yours for a mere $336.00. Okay, maybe that one was too silly. Maybe you prefer something more suited to your sophisticated tastes. How about this inconspicuous device:

Nest Thermostat

"Daniel, what's so cool about a thermostat?" Well, nothing usually but this Nest Thermostat only needs you to adjust two settings: Up & Down. Over the course of about a week, it creates a program based on the temperature changes you've made. It continuously adapts to your adjustments and offers information such as how long it will actually take before you room comes up to the desired temperature. It also signals energy saving actions with its 'Nest Leaf' logo whenever you perform them. Much like the Terminator, this is a learning machine, but this machine will cost you $249.00. Speaking of the Terminator, let's replicate something...

MakerBot 3D Replicator

Tired of two dimensional printing? Why not make your prints come to life with The MakerBot Replicator™, the ultimate personal 3D printer. MakerBot gives you the ability to extrude your design in single or dual-color ABS plastic with a build space equal to the size of a loaf of bread. The best part about this device is the list of warnings it comes with on the website. I haven't seen such a potentially dangerous device since the Flux Capacitor or...... the Easy-Bake Oven. Just imagine what trouble you could cause for only $1,749.00. What, do you think dangerously cool gadgets are all too expensive? Well then, take a gander at this...

Evergreen Mp3 Player

Haven't we seen enough mp3 players? Yup, but the "DN-2000" from Evergreen can attach to your keychain and plays music directly from SD-memory cards (1GB max) for up to 5 hours on a single AAA battery. Those stats may not be very impressive, but this one is... The price: $8.50. It's the closest I've seen to a disposable digital music player. I'm sorry, are you too old-school for digital music? Maybe this next one is more your speed....

Soundwagon Portable Mini Record Player

The name says it all. Tired of watching your vinyl spin? Why not give them a break and let the Soundwagon do it for a change. This officially licensed VW minibus model is a fully-functional, battery powered phonograph player. It's contains a needle, amplifier and speaker that will run laps around your LP's... that's if your brave enough to turn your precious collection into a race track. $99.00 puts you behind the wheel of this micro-magic......

So, there are my top 7. I'm always on the look out for anything cool and unusual so please, feel free to drop a comment or link below if you've got something unique or kooky that we should all know about... like a machine to make it stop raining.

Cheers!

Bathroom Toilet Repair: The Smell from Hell

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 14:39:00 +0000

I received a question from Samuel C. asking: "I have a constant smell in my bathroom I can't seem to find or fix. Any suggestions?"

Yes.... Flush when you're done.

No, I'm kidding Sam.
What you are most likely smelling are sewer gasses. All of the drains in your bathroom lead to a central drain that takes waste-water out of your house to either a city sewer line or a leach field depending on where you live. Those drain lines can contain sewer gasses such as Methane, hydrogen sulfide, ammonia, sulfur dioxide and more.

The way we stop those gasses from coming back into your house is by means of a "trap". What's a trap?
A trap is when a woman asks you if an outfit makes her look heavy..... It's also a U-shaped bend in the drain line that "traps" water creating a barrier between you and the open sewer system.

The Usual Suspects:

In a full bathroom there are typically three traps:

One under the sink (which is often located in the vanity cabinet)
One under the tub/shower (which is usually hidden in the floor)
One in the toilet (This one is actually built into the toilet itself)

One or more of these could be causing that smell. Typically, if a sink trap is faulty, you will see signs of water damage below the trap suggesting it's not holding water as it should. That would show up in the vanity cabinet floor. For the tub/shower it can be trickier as the trap is enclosed and may show signs of leaking in the ceiling below if it's a second floor bathroom.

All of that being said, the first place I always check and the most likely candidate is the toilet and let me explain why.
As I mentioned, the toilet has a built-in trap. This trap allows the toilet to maintain the water level inside the bowl. If there was no trap, the water would just flow down the drain and the toilet bowl would be empty and dry. When a toilet is installed, it's placed onto a floor drain using a wax ring gasket.

The wax ring is used to seal the drain outlet on the bottom of the toilet to the drain opening in the floor. When a toilet is installed, the ring is placed onto the drain... the toilet is dropped onto the ring... and the toilet bolts (also known as closet bolts) are tightened enough to lock the toilet in place. If that wax gasket ring starts to fail or isn't seated properly? Sewer gasses can sneak out from under your toilet causing your bathroom to have that suspicious smell. It can also cause water to escape, sometimes invisibly, with each flush potentially damaging the floor hidden under the toilet.

How To Repair A Toilet Gasket:

1) Turn off the water supply to your toilet

2) Flush the toilet and hold the handle down to drain as much water from the tank & bowl as possible

3) Disconnect the water supply line

4) Disconnect the two closet bolts holding the toilet to the floor

5) Lift the toilet straight up and off and place it to the side. Try to lay either old towels or a drop-cloth underneath as the wax ring can be stuck to the underside and make a mess of whatever it touches. Also, It's hard to get all of the water out of the toilet without pumping it and any tilting will cause it to spill out from underneath.

6) You'll now see the drain flange on the floor. Scrape any excess wax off of the flange to prepare it for a new wax ring.
I suggest buying a jumbo ring with a built-in flange to get the best seal. They often come with new closet bolts in case your old ones are junk.

7) Be sure to inspect and clean the bottom outlet of the toilet to remove any excess wax that may be stuck to the toilet. BE CAREFUL! As I mentioned, when you tip the toilet excess water WILL spill out. I like to take the toilet into the tub or shower for this maneuver if possible. Also, the wax that the rings are made out of can make a mess of anything it comes in contact with. Do your best not to get it on you, your floors, your dog.... your children.

8) Set the new wax gasket in place on the floor, position the closet bolts so they are straight up and ready for the toilet.

9) Drop the toilet in place making sure the bolts slide up through both holes in the base of the toilet and press down. You should feel the toilet raised from the floor as you press it down a bit into place till the base touches the floor. That's the wax gasket ring getting squished down and creating the seal you need. If the toilet hits the floor with a clunk, the gap between the drain flange and toilet outlet may have been to big for the wax ring to seal. You may need to stack a secondary standard wax ring on top to create a seal (this isn't ideal, I'd rather have a new toilet flange installed at the proper height but, it's not uncommon).

10) Tighten down the closet bolts making sure NOT to use too much torque. You aren't installing tires on a race car here so, take it easy Mr. Goodwrench. You just want to hold the toilet in place, not crack the porcelain base of the toilet or damage the drain flange.

11) Reconnect the water supply, turn on the water and let the tank fill back up.

12) Flush a few times to make sure things are sealed and no water is leaking out and voila.... you've successfully re-installed your toilet with a proper seal.

Sometimes there can be complications of broken toilet flanges, closet bolts or rotted sub-flooring. If you find any of that in your situation, it will need to be repaired before reinstalling the toilet.
Best of luck and if you have any other questions, be sure to Ask A Home Improvement Expert!

Cheers!

Image: Marco Torresin / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

ASK A HOME IMPROVEMENT EXPERT!

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:25:00 +0000

We've added a new feature to our website, "Ask a Home Improvement Expert".
It's designed to allow any of you with a DIY (Do It Yourself) question to submit it to Focalpoint Renovations along with your name and email address.

We will respond to all questions within 48 hours and do our best to answer every question you might have about how to do something or more importantly, how NOT to do something!

Drop us a line and see if we can answer something for you!
The best questions and answers will be posted here on our blog so that others may read them as well.

Cheers!

Focalpoint Renovations

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Can I Tile Over Hardwood Flooring?

We ran into this situation on a recent project and it seemed like a good time to talk about it.

Rule #1: Motion is your enemy.

Things that may cause your wood-frame floor to move:

Rule #2: Surface must be clean for a strong bond.

Rule #3: Use a premium modified Thinset mortar

In conclusion: Why we don't recommend tiling over hardwood

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PAINT COLOR IDEAS: The Pottery Barn Effect

Jennifer H. asked us, "What paint colors work best in small rooms?"

Here are a couple of simple rules to follow when updating a room for paint

TRIM

PAINT

FLOOR TILE: Does SIZE matter?

"We've been thinking about changing the tile in our bathroom but we aren't sure which size tile we should use. Is smaller tile better for a bathroom?"

How level are your floors?

Desired Effect

Bathroom usage

Grout color

Personal preference

CAPTCHA: Why Do You Hate Me?

I'M HUMAN AND I CAN'T TELL WHAT THOSE WORDS ARE!

*SATANIC-BACKWARDS-MASKING-EVIL-IS-UPON-US-I-HEAR-DEAD-PEOPLE!!!*

"Incorrect security code entered, please try again"

7 Amazing Gadgets You Must Have!

The Jellyfish Aquarium

iPhone Tri-lens

BANG! (Shoot the light out)

Nest Thermostat

MakerBot 3D Replicator

Evergreen Mp3 Player

Soundwagon Portable Mini Record Player

Bathroom Toilet Repair: The Smell from Hell

ASK A HOME IMPROVEMENT EXPERT!

SATANIC-BACKWARDS-MASKING-EVIL-IS-UPON-US-I-HEAR-DEAD-PEOPLE!!!