Chianti Trails

Fierra dei Poggi

2012-02-09T01:08:00.000-08:00

I found this old article from 2007 about a trip up to the Muraglione pass on horseback.This was a great ride pre- baby (I think I was 6 months pregnant at the time), and a lovely memory of Taribo!

We all know that Tuscany is renowned for its wines, museums and its glorious art cities. Without a doubt this is a fantastic destination for those looking to enjoy the gastronomical attractions and cityscapes... but for me, Tuscany is all about the picturesque terrain. For this reason, equine tourism has boomed in the past 5 years. Whilst I am terribly biased, there is in my humble opinion no better way to enjoy the regions distinctive countryside; than experiencing it on horseback.

Astonishingly a great deal of the spectacular landscapes in Tuscany are actually located within a short drive of Florence, so it is of course wholly possible to get the best out of both worlds.

When I wrote this article, we lived in a small farm called Cintoia, located above Rufina in the commune of Colognole.

These hills are full of ancient tracks used by merchants, soldiers and most recently, second world war partisans. These trails; forged centuries ago before the era of the automobile are generally accessible only by foot or horseback, thus for one wishing to cover a fair amount of ground in these vertical and often taxing hillsides, a surefooted horse is a welcome alternative to walking.

Horse riding offers a chance to experience the splendour of nature in a traditional manner whilst incorporating an individuals passion for both animals and adventure. In a world dominated by modern technology; where we often spend more time on our computer than with our families; getting out on the trail is a forced return to nature. No laptops allowed, and use your cellphone at your own risk (speaking from the personal experience of two broken phones, and a very expensive camera lost en route).

Horse riding requires communication and cooperation between man and beast. If you dont have either, you are literally risking your life. Horse riding is a risk sport (dont let anyone tell you otherwise); these are not machines, and sometimes even the most docile horses will rebel.

This trip was not touristic. This was an authentic Italian horse riding trip, that riders and merchants have done since the middle ages - and that was precisely why I was so keen to go.

Paolo and I were invited on the annual pilgrimage to the antique and historic animal and produce fair “la Fiera dei Poggi” located at the Muraglione mountain pass between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna.

Historically this fair was the annual meeting point for animal and produce traders from both sides of the border. A chance to buy and sell, and catch up on what was happening on the other side of the mountain range.

These days, though the tradition of bringing animals up the challenging mountain pass from both Tuscany and Emilia Romagna for a weekend remains… the purpose is solely festive these days.

We set off from our base early in the morning.

I rode my little Arab Taribo, sure footed and brave, and as keen for an adventure as I was. Paolo rode Navarro. Our friend Michele would pick up the dogs in the truck, and we would swap the next day (since I decided not to push 14 hours while pregnant)

We rode the horses to meet Riccardo. It was early, fresh and the horses were keen to go. Running a tad late, we cantered them through the easier sections - trails through pine forests and over the rolling tawny coloured cattle fields. Riccardo met us outside his house on his big bay mare, and we rode down to Vicchio to meet the rest of the group (who had departed from Pontassieve earlier).

The ride involved a river crossing near the village. It was a peaceful little spot, sparkling river, shady clearing etc. Our horses were all experts in water, so this was no problem. I noticed a small monument and asked Riccardo about it. “Thats where the monster of Florence killed two of his victims”, he told me. It was actually in July (23 years earlier) that the murder took place. Claudio (21) and his girlfriend Pia (18) were shot and stabbed in their fiat panda, then Pia was mutilated. The Monster of Florence killed a total of 16 people between 1968 and 1985. Horrible stuff - straight out of a horror movie.

We meet the others at a riding center in the Mugello. I was the only woman in the group of 7. We began picking our way upward through the magnificent alpine area of Monte Falterona, Campigna and the Casentinesi national park after stopping briefly near Dicomano to water the horses and top up our energy with a strong espresso offered to us by a kind elderly farmer who had once been a cavalry officer for the Italian military.

In Indian file, the seven of us headed up through thin tracks amongst mighty chestnut tree forests, crossing rivers and trailing our way through heavy forests. The horses loved this type of ride: ears pricked, forward moving, seemingly enjoying the chance to be out amongst the wilderness as much as their riders. I found myself completely astounded by the scenery that surrounded me. Alpine peaks rose sharply, giving way to sheer rock faces and dense forest. Above our heads, great alpine birds of prey circled with swooping wings, fully demonstrating the freedom they held high in the sky.

At one stage we had to stop due to a fallen tree. I was leading my horse at this point, as the trail fell away steeply on one side. All the men ganged up on me (pregnant and risking my life), so I dismounted for this section. One of the guys ‘Marco’, was riding a huge black maremmano horse. He dismounted and passed the horse to me, foraged in the back of his saddle pack; and came out with a saw! He proceeded to saw the tree (a long process) and we all passed through. This was real wilderness riding, and I wondered what else he carried in his saddle bags!

After stopping for a break beside an alpine stream, where both human and horse could quench their thirsts with pure mountain spring water, we tied the horses and ate a basic but enjoyable lunch of bread, cheese and prosciutto. After offering Taribo a few of my now bruised and sad looking apples, we carried on the trail weaving our way down to an awe-inspiring opening of chest high ferns that thickly covered an area the size of a football field. The horses picked through the ferns which luckily were parted down the middle by a thin dirt track. The sensation of what it must have felt like for knights of times long passed was clearly felt by all, as we laughed about being Templar knights or partisans exploring new lands.We decide to pass by the stunning Acquacheta waterfalls on the final section of our journey. This area is immortalized by Dante in his description of "The inferno" in The Divine Comedy.(Inferno, Canto XVI, 94/105).

Before long we emerged from the stunning wilderness onto a flat expanse of fields wedged amongst the forest and looking out over the alps, after nearly 7 hours of spectacular scenery, and tough trails we had arrived at the Fierra.

The Fierra could have been in Texas or California such was the western style of all participants. There were a few problems with disorganization. Water was in short supply, so extra trucks had to be sent up. We had forgotten our horses passports (with their proof of codgkins test) so we had to build a paddock on the outskirts of the camp.

Hay was bountiful (a local farmer supplied it) and the horses were a magnificent sight grazing in their fields. There were groups from all over Tuscany and Emilia; Appaloosa’s through to Spanish PRE’s. Michele brought the dogs up, and we set up our tents in the woods close to our horses.

The fiera itself really kicked off around 8 pm, where around 300 more individuals (horse enthusiasts and non enthusiasts) of all ages and from both sides of the border arrived for the huge night of festivities. The fact that so many people had made the effort to either ride, cycle or drive up to an area so isolated, raw and historic was truly exceptional. The horses dozed in their specially designed paddocks, whilst the public dined on a three course feast, supplemented with Chianti wine and local beer. Later on a festive mood prevailed as the Grappa was brought out to provide some dutch courage for those hesitant to ride the sinister looking mechanical bull.

Fire eaters, trick riders, and Flamenco dancers entertained crowds whilst the DJ played a mix of music to satisfy all tastes and revelers danced away until the early hours of the morning before retiring to their tents for a few hours kip prior to commencing the western style riding competitions the following morning. We didn't stick around for this, but competitive riders had trailered their horse up especially for this.

I swapped with Michele in the morning, and drove home with the dogs and the gear. I stopped at the river for a swim (it was around 30 degrees) and then drove home to feed the other horses and have a wee kip.

The boys had an amazing ride back too, meeting all sorts of characters after they decided they could find a better route home. They rode 8.5 hours in the end, and horses and riders were knackered, yet happy.

Michele rode many of our horses over the years, but he always repeated that the best was Taribo - a tough, and hardy little arab that could last the distance, the same little horse that safely carried him home from the Muraglione on a hot July day in 2007.

NB: The Fierra dei Poggi is an annual event held generally on the third weekend of July. For those interested in exploring the Tuscan/ Romagna Apennines and Acquacheta waterfalls check out the website www.colinedifirenze.it

Murgese Horse History

2012-02-04T07:12:00.000-08:00

Part Two:

The potency of a powerful black horse is unmistakable. Today black horses still evoke an aura of mystery and wonder redolent of a time when horses were symbolic of strength war, wealth and potency.

Closely related to the old Neapolitano horse, once one of Europe's most sought after breeds, and with an unmistakable Spanish influence; the Murgese is a descendant of Emperor Frederick II’s legendary destriers. Distinguished by their blue roan or black/bay coloring; the Murgese is a baroque horse doted with a remarkable hardiness and predisposition for dressage and working equitation.

Italy is famous for its rich medieval history, yet the countries medieval equestrian culture is at best virtually unheard of, and at worst significantly neglected.

Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, Holy Roman Emperor, King of Sicily and King of Jerusalem had a vast territory during his reign. Besides s modern Germany, Czechoslovakia, Poland, Eastern France, and Northern Italy, he ruled the Kingdom of Sicily and many parts of the Mediterranean including Israel, Lebanon, Malta, and Cyprus. Frederick was one of the most interesting rulers during the Medieval ages, he unified his vast kingdom with a policy of cultural harmony and even re-conquered Jerusalem without violence.

His reign was considered by many as the renaissance of the south. Frederick was passionate about his horses, they were purpose bred on the Karst tablelands of Puglia, so that they would have strong legs and hooves, indispensable in a war horse. Frederick II is credited with being one of the most important figures in medieval horse breeding. There is a very good book titled ‘I Cavalli del Re’ by Franco Porsia on this subject.

Frederick published the most important text on Falconry possibly ever written

‘ De Arte venandi cum Avibus’ and his knight Giordano Ruffo, wrote one of the earliest vetinary texts ‘De Medicina Equorum’ listing the ideal characteristics of a horse (which match today’s Murgese’s conformation exactly ). Giordano Ruffo worked closely with the horses of the Murge, and his writings were revolutionary during a time often described as the 'Dark ages'.

The destrier, or medieval war horse; was not a heavy horse as many belive; but instead a smaller stockier horse similar to todays Lusitano... and Murgese. Horses in the middle ages were known for the region in which they were bred. Italian, Spanish, Fresian etc. The Italian horses from the regions around Naples were known as 'Neapolitano' horses. In an old text I found about Frederick, there are various mentions of the importance of his southern horse breeding stations, and it is clearly stated that they were NOT to be sold to crusaders.

Frederick bred his horses here for one reason. He needed a war horse that could last the distance, and he believed horses raised in the Karst would be hardier than the horses of Northern Italy/Europe raised on grassy pastures.

After his death, the Murgese horse became the mount of the Ghibellines, which for hundreds of years opposed the corrupt papal rule of Italy. They fought some extraordinary battles here in Tuscany, stories straight out of a novel - rich with intrigue, adventure and treachery - especially in the 50 years after the death of Frederick II. One of these wars was The Battle of Campaldino near the castle of Poppi. I have visited the hill where the battle took place (on horseback no less).
An emotive experience, imagining the knights and foot-soldiers fighting; one of whom was Dante himself was said to have fought whilst in exile from Florence.

Between 1400 and 1500, the Venetian republic took over the studs of the Murge, and they also raised their cavalry horses there. From 1700 the court of Vienna produced two Murge stallions known well amongst Lipizzaner lovers: Neapolitano and Conversano, which went on to become two of the 6 main ancestral lines of Lipizzaner horse.

By the 1900’s the Murgese was at risk of extinction. The Savoy dynasty declassified the race first as agricultural class, and then - in the breeds darkest hour, as a meat horse.

Throughout the past 100 years, the breed has had highs and lows. Pugliese people are still Italy’s biggest horse meat consumers, so for many years the breed association focused on the heavier lines suitable for slaughter.
This effectively dropped the horse from favor in other parts of Italy, such as the north (where most of the affluent horse buyers live) as the breed was considered heavy and stubborn.

I discussed this still common misconception with Roberta and Miche when I met them.
It sparked a lively debate!
The Pugliese horses are still bred much the same as they have been raised for thousands of years- semi wild. The difference today, is that in the past these horses were raised for war, or noblemen.
There was once an excellent equestrian culture in the south (don't forget this is where the renaissance in Classical riding began) there were professional grooms, stables, full time trainers etc.In the past one hundred years, the horses have ended up raised by farmers, often in small basic farms. The horses that are sold on are usually unhandled, untrained. If they have been schooled - its all been done fast (3 weeks) using tough, traditional techniques.

The breeding associations have done a good job in improving the Murgese's standard, returning it to former ideals - but the horsemanship could be improved where the horses are bred.

Horses are treated like cattle, mares never ever come inside, and the stallions are boxed from the moment they start causing trouble in the herd. The horses when they arrive at Gottero ranch, are virtually untouchable, and Miche tells me it can be tough getting them from the village up to the stables (where the truck cant reach) since often they have never even had a halter on. This is actually hard to believe, having seen how affectionate the horses are now, and I find this a real testament to their training.

I am told by various sources, that to buy a good Murgese it is important to travel to Puglia with someone in the 'know', otherwise you are likely to be sold stock that is substandard quality, or even dangerous. Colts are not gelded down their either, and that needs to be considered as a purchaser.

There are three or four other yards in Italy that specialize in selling/training Murgese horses.
I ask about the differences, and notice a marked change of tone when we get to the fourth.

'They have been responsible for the worst advertising of the Murgese' Roberta tells me. "They buy whatever they can get, even if its half wild and not sound. All they care about is the return. People have been seriously hurt with these horses. They shouldn't have been sold as riding stock, but people don't know, and in the end its the horses that get a bad reputation. They end up passed along the line, and everyone that has contact with the poor horse walks away saying Murgeses are nuts."

This isnt so different to many other breeds of animal.Bad dealers are everywhere, just look at the ex racehorse industry. Horses that probably should have been humanely put down at the end of their careers because of unsoundness in mind or body, are instead sold as riding horses - often to novice or nervous riders. The good TB's get a bad name because of the bad, and these poor examples struggle as riding horses for years, often causing serious accidents to their poor riders or themselves.

I guess the difference here, is that the Murgese horse doesnt need much. After only a few months of training here in Liguria, these horses are really very calm. Miche says what he likes about the breed, is that they think first and act after. "If I see a wild boar out on a ride, my horse might stop, even shy a little - but he wont run. He always waits to see what the next command is".

These are horses that are highly trainable, versatile and affectionate. A little bit of training goes a long way. After talking with Roby and Miche, I also walk away with thinking about the importance of good training in a horse. Many of Roby and Miches buyers are beginners or novices. They laugh about 'the line' of dressage riders looking to purchase stock. It doesnt exist.
I know what they mean, having tried to sell horses here in the past. A quiet horse sells, an experienced ride doesnt. For this reason, re-training is important for these young horses. It really can be a case of life and death for their riders.

I think back to Aristotle, only 4 years old; and trained for a 70 year old woman who had never ridden before. He arrived like many, completely untouchable, yet within a few months his tough upbringing on the Karst plateau - with stock, farmers, vehicles and more, has been combined with gentle training to provide an exceptional little horse.

Having seen these magnificent animals up close, I literally dream of galloping black horses for three nights after.

sources: Roby Inama, Michelangelo Boer, Checco Curci, ‘I Cavalli del Re’ Franco Posia,‘ De Arte venandi cum Avibus’ Frederick II, Mauro Aurigi,

Murgese Horses at Gottero Ranch: Italy's Baroque legacy

2012-02-03T05:33:00.000-08:00

Paolo has been a passionate fan of the Murgese since the day I met him. It was always his dream to have a string of black horses of the Murge out trekking. All with traditional Italian tack to complement the medieval theme of the ride...The catch was, that of course, the cost of a team of Murgese was never really an option, but we did manage to purchase a pure Lipizzaner and a half breed from Slovenia thanks to the help of some special people, and the Lipizzaner is of course- a close relative of the Murgese, both of which share the Neaopolitan horse as an ancestor.

The Murgese did remain in our hearts though. This breed is still not a common sight up here in north Italy, though it is starting to gain a strong and passionate fan base. I head to Gottero Ranch in Liguria to find out more on this close relative to the Neapolitan horse of Grisone and Pignatelli.

Interestingly, even Brena (who hails from Slovenia like our lipis) though of Noric breeding, has the blood of Neapolitan ancestors running through her veins. Today few horses have the rare blue roan coloured coat. The Noric horse is one of them, as is the Murgese.
Both have inherited this interesting coloring from the old Italian Neapolitan.

To discover more about these black beauties of the south. I drive to Sesto Godano, Liguria.

Eventually,of course. I would like to make it to Puglia; where the horses are raised in a semi wild state - but for now Liguria is a happy medium.

Running the mountain training center of Gottero Ranch are Roberta Inama and Michelangelo Boer.

I meet Roberta in the village. The rain has stopped - so we decide to drive up to see the horses straight away. We all jump into the black jeep and bounce our way up the uneven road to the stables. I know I have arrived when the forest opens up, to a well maintained stable and dressage arena. What I love about European riding centers, is that often horses are kept in ancient barns that have been modernized - and the horses are working in arenas like this one, with incredible views out to the sea.

Michelangelo grew up here, in the small village of Chiusola. He developed a fascination with the Murgese horse in the late 1980’s, and brought his first horses in 1985, initially as trekking horses for his Appennine ranch. Paired up with Roberta, a fellow Ligurian from nearby La Spezia the couple quickly recognized the Murgese horses unique talent for dressage, a trait that was treasured when the horse was used for Alta Scuola and as a Cavalry mount in the 1600’s

I can’t actually contain my excitement to see these horses. I have been talking to various people the past few days that have been helping me out with historical information on the breed’s history. The cavallo delle murge has a very long and interesting story. There have been different books written about them, and there is a good amount of information on the web -sadly its almost all in Italian, and the stuff in English is messy and often impartial.

And that's what I'm here for actually, its time for some decent info on Murgese horses in English. Look at the popularity of Fresians, and the rare black Lipizzaners, there is a huge international marketing potential in Murgese horses; but it seems like many things in Il Bel Paese; the industry is grossly mismanaged.

There is a whole political tale to be told here, which I wont touch on today as it would alone, make a long and detailed post.

Today I'm here to talk horse, and to see the horses up close and person.

Roberta starts out with Adone. Of all the horses I see today, Adone has the most impact on me personally. Thats not saying the other horses were not half as beautiful - they were, and more... but Adone is straight out of a renaissance painting. Hes that old type that I love. He looks a bit like our old Lipizzaner Maestoso Trompeta.

Look back at my old Neapolitano post further down, specifically at the black horse painting. That horse could be Adone. (photo thanks to Checco) since mine doesnt do him justice.

He is a stallion, a bit cheeky, a bit nippy, but essentially a people lover always looking for attention and cuddles. Jet black, with that slightly curved baroque nose and long wavy mane of an Iberian horse; we joke that he would look great under Antonio Banderas as Zorro’s horse Tornado.

Bruno Rinaldi (below) is up next. What I love about this particular horse is his compact confirmation. He is Roberta’s Working Equitation prospect. Small, agile and level headed; she has high hopes for his future in this discipline. He’s still young (30 months) but should mature into a lovely horse.

Roberta has achieved considerable success in Working Equitation with her brilliant mare ‘Macina’. At the 2006 World Championship in Lisbon, Inama achieved a team medal (bronze),and in 2009 the pair participated at the German Bentaiga Trophy in Germany where they won two gold medals in dressage and Completo (all four trials). Unfortunately soon after Macina suffered an injury which has kept her out of work for the past two years, though Rinaldi is looking like a good replacement!

Next up in Beniamino di Vallenza. Beni has just been sold, and I am sad to hear hes going to be a trekking horse, as this big 17hh gelding is made for dressage.

While Beni shows off in the arena, we talk prices. What would a horse like this sell for I ask? I am shocked when I discover his price, a fraction of what I would have thought.

Violante is a four-year-old mare of the famous Nerone line. Initially she was a working equitation prospect too, but proved not to have the consistency required for this demanding sport. Violante is big, strong and very beautiful. She charges around the arena like a steam train, leaping and bucking. I ask Roberta what shes like under saddle. “Does she buck?” I ask “Not anymore” she laughs

Miche goes on to tell me “This mare has the sort of power that would make a buttero cry tears of joy. But shes no beginners mount”.

Next up are the current dressage stars. Troiano is Robertas current competitive dressage mount. Sweet natured, and attentive to his trainers. He bows and kneels on command. He is a beautiful example of the breed, and is not a surprise that the pair have been very successful here in Italy.

Aurora is another champion, she is only 4, and has already won a silver medal in the regional young rider champs. Her owner/rider is fourteen! Roberta tells me she is fantastic. So calm, she looks out for her rider at all times. Its hard to imagine this huge mare with a teenager on her back, but her sweet nature is outwardly evident, I can imagine the fun a horse mad kid would have with a horse like this. Black beauty come to life!

Belloezio; still evidently young when he moves, is a horse with a big future.

He is different. Special. I can’t wait to follow this stallions progress!
His face is little and almost arabian looking, yet his conformation tends towards the german warmbloods. He is also very big, and still growing.

Macina is last up. She is the star of the stables, and Robertas mount for the international Working Equitation games in Portuagal 2006, where Italy took the bronze. They also won three medals in Germany at the international Bentaiga trophy 2009, including gold in the dressage. I am honored to meet this beautiful horse, that is so special to Roberta.

We watch her work at liberty, and she points out to me what makes a good working equitation mount, from the conformation through to the personality. Both Roby and Miche emphasize that the most important attribute in this sport is a submissive horse. A horse that keeps calm in all of the trials. “Its not easy”Miche says “Your asking your horse to work fast over challenging obstacles in a foreign environment. Your horse needs to go top speed when asked too, and then stop, and complete difficult movements that require his full attention”. Roberta says that it takes at least four years to train a horse correctly for this sport. “You need to invest heart and soul into it” she tells me. “But if you don't have the head under control, then nothing else matters”.

Murgese are perfect for this sport, as they are raised with cattle in the open, and have a natural talent for classical dressage through their Neapolitan ancestors. The Murgese was bred for centuries as a nobleman's horse, so self-carriage, expressive movement and a calm demeanor are all inherent. They resemble the Iberian breeds in general type, though each line produces a very different horse as I have been shown here today.

To finish my tour of the stables, I meet Ariosto, Beatrice and Zinco. Three lovely horses used by novice riders for trekking.

Ariosto is one of my favorites of the day, he has that nice little short back of an Arab, and big shaggy black mane that falls over his eyes. I tell Roberta to keep me in mind if his owner wants to sell; this horse is perfect for a family- he was brought for a 70 year old woman as a first horse and even though when he arrived he was terrified of people, he is now adorably affectionate.

The breed now more than ever, is most similar to the original Napolitano horse used by Grisone in his Alta Scuola academy.

Due to this, and the breeds aptitude for classical riding, the Murgese is now gaining popularity nationally and internationally especially amongst fans of the baroque/renaissance style horse

The International School of Equestrian Art in Dortmund, Germany of Marius Schneider recently purchased a rare blue roan example of the breed to train classically. Over the border in Slovenia; trainers like Jani Krmac from Ljubljana choose to import Murgese horses because they find them easier to work with than the closely related Lipizzaner (national horse of his homeland). "I couldn't be happier with the Murgese", Jani tells me in broken Italian. "They are quick to learn the more complex movements, and calm under pressure, yet are very similar to the Lipizzaner in quality and ability".

The Murgese horse has experienced illustrious glory followed by darkest obscurity.

Thankfully today due to people like Roberta and Michelangelo this sensational horse is experiencing a revival. A sort of equine renaissance that recognizes the many attributes of this special Italian war horse of the Murge, close relative to the Lipizzaner and Kladruby and possibly the final legacy of Grisone's legendary Napolitano horse.

Violante

Troiano

Macina and Roby

BelloEzio

Aristotle

Troiano

The stables

Rinaldi

Adone

Enjoy this nice little video of Macina and Roby:

Big Snow Italy

2012-02-02T01:58:00.000-08:00

We are stuck at home this week, as Italy is hit hard by one of the worst cold fronts seen in recent years.

Talking to the locals, they all expected this. "It was a question of time", my elderly neighbor tells me.

Normally we get our first snowfall in Tuscany around November, and then again in Feb/March. This year we missed the first dump, but have more than made up for it with the second.

Our house had around 30cm settled outside the door yesterday morning, and poor Paolo spent hours shoveling snow off our stairs, which are now dangerously icy.

The cold front has come from Siberia we are told, and so far has caused more than 80 deaths in Europe; mostly homeless people who have simply frozen to death. Here in Italy so far the deaths have been accident related, but its moments like this that I feel for the elderly of the country. Alone, and with pitiful pensions of around 500 euro a month, and often without family to help them. Who shovels the snow from their doorways? Who brings them firewood, or lights candles when the electricity goes out?

Across from our house is an old monastery that is now home to three elderly people (and a beautiful farm stay which is currently not used). I like that here in Iano there is a real sense of community. We look out for them, and they in turn look out for us. Last week when I took the dogs for a walk before work, my 90 year old neighbor saw me leave, but not return, and though I had in fact come home, put away the dogs and then driven to work; she didn't see me, and alerted other locals that I was perhaps ill or injured.

That afternoon she send a neighbor to find out whether I was OK. That neighbor saw the dogs were home, and the car was gone- and reassured her that all was OK. When I came home later that night they recounted the drama to me. It was very sweet actually; and its nice to feel like people care in a world that can seem very cold at times.

Right now Paolo attempted to drive down to our horses near Volterra, unfortunately being inbetween Pisa and Florence (were on the Florentine side) there is a stretch of road that neither commune will clean. So... politics again, and we cant get to the horses. Thank god for Vincenzo, who is taking care of them.

We have had to part ways with my lovely red punto, and currently whilst our new car is fitted with an LPG tank we are driving a fairly battered old Micra with bad heating. I was very sad to see my little car go, but prices of petrol have gone through the roof recently - and with all the driving we need to do for work, the LPG is 100% necessary.

It is snowing again outside, and the schools have all been closed until Monday. I for one am not planning on going far this week, and I am glad I can work from home tucked up near the fire, Paolo on the other hand is already over being cooped up, and is now banging away at something in the workshop.

Earthquakes and Destriers in Liguria

2012-01-28T15:34:00.000-08:00

Eeek. Apologies for a delay in blogging. Busy is the buzzword in my life right now, but its a good busy. Lots of things happening, the tourist season is starting to gain momentum so my 9-5 job has been on the go, as well as a few other projects...

Yesterday I spent the afternoon in Liguria with a pair of incredible people and their amazing horses, it just happened that their village was directly above the epicenter of a 5.45 earthquake at 4pm. I come from a city that has withstood more than 7000 earthquakes in the past year, but yesterdays quake was still a bit disconcerting.

I scoffed at the media coverage of a 4. quake up near Venice to my boss earlier in the week, and she reminded me that small quakes can cause big damage in Italy, since it is full of old buildings that were never designed to take the countries seismic condition into account. In 2002 a 5.4 shake killed almost 30 people in Puglia, thankfully yesterdays caused no damage.

It has been a few years since I felt an earthquake. This one was different to others due to the roaring noise like a lorry passing outside. The dog was probably the most disturbed, though driving back down to Tuscany in the rain, passing the flood ravaged Cinque Terre and two separate car accidents ... I couldn't help but think maybe these Mayans were onto something.

With the cruise ship disaster, and the week long truck strikes... the general feeling has been a bit gloomy.

Luckily there are still those that are upbeat about Italy’s future. I choose to side with them right now. Somethings got to give, and I hope it happens soon!

I promise to write a longer post about my visit soon. In the meantime, check out this hunk of a colt - still growing, but already looking mighty nice!

Dolce Dolce Vita

2012-01-15T08:15:00.000-08:00

We have had another weekend of spectacular weather in Tuscany. Friends have sent through reports of hail and rain in New Zealand (when they should be enjoying the heat of summer) and we are enjoying balmy spring weather perfect for making the most of the outdoors.

I took Dali out for a ride yesterday. The combination of warm weather, quality hay, and lack of work has transformed my lazy gelding into a perky war horse.
Head held high, we marched up the hills, spooking at suspicious rocks or noises, and alertly noting any movements in the distance.

Jack came along for the ride, and did an excellent job of flushing out deer and pheasants in front of us, of which there were many.

Four young white tails sprung out from behind a hill early on the ride. Dali watched them with interest, but thankfully no fear. His field is at the base of this series of hills; and he interacts with deer on a daily basis. Often I will find them grazing only meters away from him early in the morning.

Today the hills were alive with animals. In the distance two dark cinghiale rooted for food, and there seemed to be a new group of deer on each hill. We surprised a group of four resting stags, who quickly got to their feet and bounded away to safety.

I always feel a rush of happiness when I see wild deer at such close range. These beautiful animals are a rarity for us in Australia and New Zealand. As a child my experiences with deer were limited to the terrifying roar of a wapiti (elk) in the distance, or a set of antlers that my father would bring home after a hunt. On arrival in Germany, I clearly remember the thrill of seeing a young deer in the forest next to the house. I recounted the exhilarating experience at dinner to my host family, only to be met with blank expressions and polite smiles. Ten years later, even though I see these animals on a daily basis - they still uplift me.

As we rode over the crinale at the top of the range, we met two big Maremmano dogs (enormous white sheepdogs that were originally used to keep wolves at bay). The dogs are usually fine with horses, but I was worried about Jack. Dali picked up the nervous excitement, and for the latter part of the ride held his tail high, flared his nostrils and danced his way down the steep track home. It was lovely to feel such energy in him. He was proud, elegant and lively, lifting his feet high and holding his head regally.

Check out his eyes below though, would you trust this face ?

This morning we planned on a nice walk in the forest with the dogs. Unfortunately, the magnificent weather has brought every hunter within 100km to Montaione. Wherever we went there were hunting convoys getting ready, so we decided to head to the Castelfalfi reserve and wander about the golf course and castle (where hunters are not permitted).

It has been so long since I have had the chance to enjoy a well manicured lawn, that I forgot how good it feels to walk barefoot on soft grass.

Maya adored running back and forth, and playing in the sand bunkers with Jack, and Layla could roam free without any fear of a stray hunter picking her off.

We did come across a pair of hunters looking sheepish at the entrance of the course (where they are not permitted to hunt). Two ducks had landed in one of the lakes inside the golf course, and we disturbed one of the hunters in the process of spooking the pair so that they would fly towards his partner (already waiting with the gun aimed in their direction).

The guy with the gun quickly disappeared when he saw us. The other started to whistle, and pretended to look for something. As soon as we were at the next hole we heard a squawk and flapping wings. I turned around just in time to see the hunter that had previously run off to hide, take aim and shoot the duck that flew straight at him.

I am not anti hunting, but I loathe this type of unethical and sneaky hunter. These ducks should have been safe from hunters today, but even though these guys had been firing in the reserve all morning; they had to come and kill the few remaining animals that were smart enough to take refuge in an area that hunters were not permitted.

Later in the day on our way home, we found this lovely sight. Three brand new cinghiale babies, so tiny that they have not yet learnt to fear man. Their little mother hid in the forest while I took these pictures. I hope they survive the hunting season...

Fortezza di San Martino

2012-01-13T05:23:00.000-08:00

Some time ago I wrote about a fortress that was along our 2009 Mugello trail.
Sadly we only had the chance to ride this trek twice before we moved over to Iano; as it was an interesting ride full of mysterious castles, renaissance villa's and rugged countryside.
This is the chosen countryside of the Medici’s; once one of the most important noble families in Europe.

The fortress covers an entire hill and is seen from a distance rising above the forest around it, like an old Mayan temple. There were no signs when we drove out here three years ago, simply a long dirt road that led us up to the magnificent walls which stand at least ten meters high. We had no idea what the place was when we arrived.
Overgrown with vines and tree roots and riddled with crevices and cracks from years without maintenance; the Fortezza di San Martino still inspires awe and astonishment at the power wielded by the Medici dynasty centuries ago.

Today the fortress is home to a couple of dogs, and two donkeys.

We know about the dogs, after taking a look at the inside of the locked up fort, which is provided through one of the large cracks at the back entrance. Halfway through exploring the ancient munition factory, our Indiana Jones search party, were disturbed by a large and rather fierce rottweiler.
Just a word of warning...

Only in Italy could a location as impressive as this fortress receive so little attention. The interior of the fort was big enough to accommodate and sustain an entire army of soldiers. There was a church, barracks, cistern, warehouse's, a munitions factory and stables for the horses. Cosimo di Medici I even had secret passages built underground, so that the horses could be watered if the fort was under siege. The fort is almost a mile long, and is characterized by seven large bastions along the structure and an impressive entrance at the front. The fort was never actually utilized for war, but was definitely a strategic deterrent!

The castle is now privately owned as mentioned above, and sadly the inside is off limits to visitors. However, for those that are interested this is a lovely spot to wander about on foot. Walk the walls, check out the architecture - and imagine what it was like to be a soldier in the 1500's. The surrounding countryside is lovely, and far less disturbed by tourism than the Chianti. Nearby Scarperia is also well worth a visit, as are the Trebbio castles (there are two with the same name in the area) and the Caffiagolo villa near Vicchio.

Maremmano Horse Tuscany

2012-01-08T10:24:00.000-08:00

Nobody knows exactly where the Etruscan people came from, nor their horses. Theories exist that they were African or perhaps Turkish.

The Etruscan’s bred a tough and fast little war and chariot horse, a horse that excelled in Greek competitions and was admired by Roman legions.

The Etruscan horses that grazed along the Tuscan coastline over two thousand years ago were the ancestors of todays Maremmano horse. A horse that still lives in herds along the Tuscan coastline, and is still revered as a fast and hardy work horse.

The breed has been influenced heavily by other equine lines throughout the centuries, and has survived wars, famine and occupation.

In the 16th century, the papal state and the Grand Duke of Tuscany were particularly interested in the breeding of the Maremmano horse. Whilst the latter preferred light horses with andalusian, Neapolitan or oriental arabian characteristics (bay in coloring) the former preferred a larger,robust horse suitable for pulling carriages.

Both were Maremmano, even though they were of a different type.

Tuscan Maremmano versus Roman Maremmano.

Before the 1800s Tuscan Maremmano and Roman Maremmano horses were recognized throughout Europe as excellent all round horses, and were in high demand. Then Malaria hit the Maremma, as well as a rise in brigands plaguing the countryside with crime, and a Savoy revolution in breeding the native out of the Italian horse... things started to go downhill for the breed.

In the early 1900‘s two important studs closed down, and the brood-mares were bred to various other stallions without any set plan. The Maremmano during this time was mixed with local native horses, Spanish horses, thoroughbred and Arabian lines. The breed fell from grace amongst international enthusiasts, who believed that the horse was no longer an Italian breed.

After serving their country in both world wars as cavalry mounts, the Maremmano breed was decimated. Luckily there was a group of devoted breeders in Tuscany and Lazio that managed to keep the breed alive, they founded a formal breed association and stud book and set the ball rolling to get the Maremmano back in vogue.

In the breeds recent history, four stallions are considered the founding lines of the current Maremmano, and all horses in todays stud book go back to one of these lines. These stallions are:

Othello. Born in 1927 in the stud of I Principi Del Drago (Maremmano breed) Bay. Othello is without a doubt the most important Stallion in the recent history of the Maremmano.

Ingres. Thoroughbred. Born 1946. Bay. 174cm.

Aiace. Thoroughbred. Bay. Born in 1926. 162cm

Ussero. Bay. Born 1920. Though described in the Maremmano breed association as a stallion of the breed ‘Moscati’ it actually turns out that he was bred at a stud by the name Moscati, and was most probably an Italian Salernitana horse.

The influence of the thoroughbred is noticeable in many of the sportier types of Maremmano horse and the breed is almost always bay. Brood-mares are permitted to be chestnut, but colts that are not bay are cut from the breeding program.

They are tough horses, bred in large herds in one of Tuscany’s wildest landscapes. The horse is traditionally a cowboy mount - that of the buttero. Nowadays they are seen competing successfully in Monte Lavoro (working equitation) but also in showjumping and dressage. Here in Tuscany they are popular horses for long distance riders, and are generally ridden for this purpose in their traditional saddles (which I have mentioned in an older post).

A well known dressage rider here in Tuscany remarked that the Maremmano horse “is improving immensely, but still not of the same quality as the Spanish or Lusitano horse”. I agree with this remark.

Michele and Moro (Maremmano Toscano)

There are some exceptional Maremmano horses, but there is still a fair way to go before the standard of the breed is unique. Travel down to Maremma to watch the Butteri, and you will see coarse little horses working the marshlands, often with a jug head and less than ideal conformation. Then you might visit a Siena equestrian center, and find a beautiful 17hh show-jumper that resembles a german warmblood. Tall and athletic, but not at all suited to the needs of a buttero, and yet he too is registered as a Maremmano horse.

In the middle of these extremes are some great horses - representative of the Maremmano horse of old. This being a robust and sturdy horse no taller than 15.2hh with strong legs and an honest expression built to work and not just to look pretty.

There is an ongoing debate with maremmano fans (and here in Tuscany there are many of these that could recite the last 40 years of the breeds history from memory alone) that the breed is being corrupted and turned into a sport horse rather than a working horse.

It is true that there are some enormous maremmanos around today, a far cry from only 100 years ago when the breed was generally around 14-15hh. Whist there are exceptions to the rule, working cow horses in other parts of the world (ie the Criollo, the Camargue, the quarter horse and the Andalusian) do not usually pass the 16hh mark. Maremmano horses, and Maremmano Migliorato (bettered with TB blood) will often hit 18hh.

This being said, these big Maremmano horses are often excellent show-jumpers, gaining a good reputation on the competition circuit - but is this at the expense of the original type?

Fun and games in the wide open

2012-01-08T00:30:00.000-08:00

The light in Tuscany is famous for its uniqueness. I do not believe its a coincidence that so many artists have been raised here, or inspired here. Giotto, Dante, Leonardo - the endless list of normal men that painted or wrote extraordinary works of art.

Every day when I have my coffee in the morning, or drive to work through the vineyards, I have to take a minute and just admire the view.

I have lived in some beautiful places in my life, but I think its more than that here. Light hits the undulating hills, and patchwork fields in a way that creates shadows, vividly highlighting features such as a lonely hill with three cyprus trees, or a pale stone house ruin.

Below our house an american painter (friends with our landlord)- keeps a collection of gear for his annual painting visits. I cant wait to meet the guy, to see what he creates.

Today the light was something out of a film. The sunset was tremendous, a blood red sky glowed from distant Volterra, a powerful shadow high on the tufo cliffs.

I took the dogs for a walk into the forest near the house, and while looking at some strange pieces of stone heard a male voice behind me. I called the dogs hastily and scuttled out, keen for whoever it was to realize I was not wild game, as the hunters around here are often a bit trigger happy for my liking.

It wasn't a hunter, but Francesco a local guy taking a walk. So we walked back to the village together talking about our fathers passion for hunting, and how that passion had not passed on to us, the second generation.

Here are some pics of my hairy muddy horses this afternoon. I took Navarro for a walk in hand to enjoy some fresh grass, and took Dali out for some work on the lunge.

We have a river that runs beside their field, with a wide crossing. Its quite deep at the moment- but a safe place to practice lunging them across and up the bank on the other side. Dali didn't have any problems with this, but he did throw some big tantrums in the field when I lunged him there. Its a huge field, one that runs from the river up to Villamagna three km away. It has always been the cause of a few tricks in the past. Dali is fine in the arena schooling, or hacking through this particular field... but schooling in it is still the cause of excitement.

Today Jack wasn't helping. He insisted as usual, on rounding up Dali as he ran around in circles. Frustrating as it is, Jack thinks he is being a good dog heading the horse on the outside. Every click that comes out of my mouth is to him an order to get in behind. They are amazing dogs these border collies. More intelligent than any dog I have ever owned.

Im missing the stone roads of Iano recently, our riding out has now started to bore me. I miss those steep mountain paths of Tufo that remain good underfoot rather than these muddy fields of grain.

The Neapolitano Horse

2012-01-02T13:41:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year !

Italy is a fairly shaky place these days, and the media is like a bloodthirsty scavenger feeding off the scraps of a dying economy. I spent my New Year with a beautiful German/Italian family this year. No talk of politics...not even a murmur. It was fantastic.

Horses have not featured these days half as much as I would like, but its time to get back on the topic of Grisone, and the Neapolitan horse!

Italians most important addition to dressage was considered extinct by the 1950s. A tragedy for Italy since it was a breed that had huge historical importance, and had made Italian horses some of the most popular in Europe.

According to many texts, the breed bore a strong resemblance to his ancestor the Roman war horse (popular pre-medieval times) which continued to thrive even in the dark ages in breeding farms through Campagna,Roma, Tuscia and Sabina. This Roman horse was a descendent of the Etruscan horse which was also bred in the same area. The Roman line was infused with antique Iberian (of the Roman era) blood. The curved Roman nose was a particular feature passed on to the elegant Neapolitan coursier.

The breed also had celtic and Spanish blood infused time to time by invading troops/occupying forces.

The Neapolitan horse in the renaissance age, was considered one of the best military mounts in Europe. Imported throughout the continent, it was infused into countless breeding programs. It is mentioned in various texts, including an account of Cosimo di Medici’s wedding. The two Lipizzaner lines Neapolitan and Conversano were Italian Neapolitan horses, and the stallion Maestoso was half Neapolitano half Iberian. The Neapolitan horse had a huge importance in the genetic makeup of the Lipizzaner (considered the oldest European breed alive) as well as many other top driving and classical riding horses such as the Kladruby (Czech) and Murgese horse (from Puglia). The Murgese horse is probably the breed most influenced by the Neapolitano horse, since the term did not actually signify one stud, but rather all of the studs of the kingdom of Naples. Puglia had four studs that were part of this kingdom, and the descendants of these horses (which were Neapolitano’s) are today known as Murgese.

The Neapolitan horse fell from favor after 1860 when the the Savoy Monarchy annexed the Bourban provinces. In only a few years the Savoy Monarchy effectively destroyed thousands of years of equine history in Italy, infusing most of the famous local breeds with foreign stallions.

Italy at the beginning of the 1800’s was the biggest exporter of horses in Europe. By 1900 many of the Italian horse breeds were nearly extinct, including the Murgese.

One man, a coffee merchant from Naples, has dedicated his life chasing the Neapolitan horse.

Searching throughout Europe for remaining Neapolitan horses during the 70’s and 80’s, he finally found a surviving stallion already well advanced in age working as a farm horse in Serbia.

There is a book written about the whole ordeal, but it is in French. The stallion, known as Il Vecchio was brought back to Italy (even though he was blocked at the border for two days) and though sadly he died in a paddock accident when his groom left the door to his box open, and he escaped. (Can you imagine how bad that groom would have copped it... after searching the world for the final living Neapolitan horse, and you are responsible for letting him free!).

Luckily old vecchio left a heir, and that stallion, Neapolitano I, and now there is Neapolitano III who is now 10 years old. The last information I could find of relevance, is a few years old. The 'Neapolitan' has had its stud book re-opened as the Napolitano horse. The main breeding program is based near the Amalfi coast, not far from Naples - where the horses are often present at regional shows and events.

Reinstated as a national breed since 2004 the stud mixes horses of breeds that were created by the Neapolitano horse and remain true to type (including the Murgese, Esperia and Pentro, The Persano salernitana and Lipizzaner lines of Conversano,Maestoso and Napolitano) the program hopes to re-create the original horse. The offspring can be registered in the Registro dei Derivati Lipizzani..

Its hard getting recent news on the program, which all seems quite secretive. The guy responsible does make the odd appearance in horse forums talking about his project, but is criticized for not showing any photos of his stock. Also, many Murgese breeders do not see the point in recreating a horse so similar to the Murgese today (which due to a closed studbook has improved impressively in the past 90 years).

Whilst any sort of horse breeding quest in Italy is good, especially classical horses. I wish there was more information in either Italian or English on how it is going...

Side note: Naples is also planning on reopening the Palazzo Mascabruno, where Carlo III di Borbone had his famous Neapolitan horses stabled. To do this 40 families were chucked out after having lived their illegally for over thirty years.

Merry Xmas!!

2011-12-21T06:08:00.000-08:00

This year I have enjoyed the xmas spirt in Italy a whole lot more than usual.

Is it that I dont have a long winter with 15 horses ahead of me, is it that I am finally getting used to these northern hemisphere cold festivities, or am I just happy to have the small pleasures of family, animals and a cute little house to enjoy it in?

Australia didnt get so much into the Christmas mood last year, thats nothing new - in NZ its the same. Our Christmases are often hot and sunny, and though as children my family always attempted the traditional roast..this gradually became just a big summer boozy BBQ. Last year was no exception, and it was great. The first time ALL of my immediate family were together since I was 12 or 13. My divorced parents were even civil to each other!!!

Seeing my brothers and sister was great, and Maya loved having her cousin Taliyah to play with.

This year no summery swim, or cold beer. Its back to Italian tradition, and Im happy for that too.

Here theres talk of snow, and I am crossing my fingers for a white Xmas! It would be a huge novelty for me... every year we seem to have a snowfall in November or early December... but never over Xmas. Is 2011 the year??

We have our old iron wood stove back in action. Paolo has filled the back yard with wood from the reserve - so we are warm all the time. He lights it before leaving to work, so the house is cosy when we get up, and heats the house over the day. I love the warmth of a fire, and while I miss our huge open fire at the Mulino; this stove kicks out twice as much heat. Its divine!

Over Christmas Paolo's twin and his family are joining us here in Iano. It will be a squish, but great fun.

So Merry Xmas to everyone, hope you all have a lovely Xmas wherever you may be!

Get off his mouth!

2011-12-11T14:13:00.000-08:00

I love this photo. To me it expresses so much. Look how much fun these three are having racing down their paddock. Doesnt it just express what we love so much about horses - all of that freedom and energy!

The power of the gallop. The strength, the speed and the unconstrained passion. Free from boundaries both emotional and physical, one with the horse, one with the universe.

Not far from where this photograph was taken, is a steep tufo sand track that we would gallop the horses on.

Generally with clients we would go no faster than a slow canter, and it was often the only canter of the ride, as due to the steep incline it was a guaranteed safe chance for worried or novice riders to experience a faster pace. When we were alone however, this was where we made the dust fly. It was on this track that we managed to canter the two trotters Chief and Larbino for the first time. What a feeling! Constraints broken, for the frustrated rider, and the horse that had been punished for cantering for years.

Growing up in New Zealand I wouldn't dare gallop my ponies. Our hacks were reserved for walk and trot, and in the arena canters were collected and controlled. Their were accidents of course, the odd bolt - racing without any control down the roads feeling no enjoyment whatsoever, with adrenaline pumping through my veins and the horses. Clinging to the reins in a vein hope that this would help me, pulling harder and feeling the horse brace against me. How foolish I was.

I blame my english riding education on a lot of things. Pony club, riding schools - boy, if I could turn back time I would love to rip up some of my teachers over the things they taught me! There is a great article from John O’Leary on this (the Aussie horse fella) that I read years ago, and thought YES YES YES, he totally got it!

The obsession with control over the horse. I saw it all the time.

These kids with the fear of god installed in them almost from day one. The kids that like I was, are terrified of jumping, cantering, riding outside the arena, riding on roads... the list goes on. They dont have horsey parents, even horsey adult friends - so nobody teaches them that this is not the way it has to be.

Nobody teaches them the fun they can have, its left to books and movies, since their riding is regulated to a weekly lesson on a school horse. So much talent is lost with these little riders. They grow up dreaming of the perfect horse, and the things they could do if it was THEIR horse! Finally, 20 years later, they buy the horse they always dreamed of . Having waited so long, they go for a young horse, spirited, exciting - everything the school horses were not.

They have never worked a young horse though, and often the fast unpredictable nature of a green horse makes their reactions exagerated. Harder hands, rigid seat - the horse tenses. The horse begins to react badly. You can imagine the final picture, and more often than not its ugly. For rider and horse.

I speak from experience, I saw the adult ‘grown up’ versions all the time when we were still doing horse treks. I saw them when we tried to sell Navarro here in Italy, and its one of the reasons we decided to keep him

Usually the following type was a day rider, passing through. They would ring up, and list their extensive horse riding experience. “Ive been riding all my life. I have a horse back home, and yeah I would consider myself expert”. Usually they will ask for a ‘lively’ horse. (yeah right).

They arrive.

They scan the yard, and usually go to the nicest looking horse.

When their horse is brought out, they will make it obvious if they like him or not straight away. They will probably make a big show of doing their stirrups, telling whoever is holding the horse that “they can do it alone” (which is usually ignored).

The rider will shorten the stirrups to an exaggeratedly short length. Once on the horse, the rider will often pull the reins sharply as the horse takes a step forward. Then they hold the horse so short that it starts to back up. They panic. Start kicking furiously, and pulling the reins tighter, and off balance, lean over the neck ignoring the commands to let the horse have his head.

The horses eyes start rolling. You know he’s safe, but hes thinking “WTF” and just keeps walking backwards. Eventually someone on the ground runs to the horse and yanks the reins out of the riders hands. The horse stops. Calm returns.

Again you instruct the rider that the horse is ridden on a loose contact.

During the ride the same rider will need to be told four times to stop interfering with the horse. This is the rider that holds her horse back on purpose, so she can get three steps of canter when on a beginners hack with her ‘never ridden before’ friends.

When she returns from the ride she will try and tell you that ‘said trail horse’ seems really predisposed to dressage, and that she was working to get him on the bit throughout the ride. You suppress the desire to smack the girl around the face when you see that your sweet complacent horse has rub marks on either side of his mouth from her hideous see-sawing hands.

My cousins were country kids - real country kids. They grew up on a station so big that it took a day to ride across it. They skipped ponies altogether, and went straight onto the geriatric stock horses of the stockmen that worked their parents farm. They were riding without helmets, boots or body protectors on 17hh thoroughbreds when we were wearing every bit of protective gear on the market, battling with naughty ponies (because pony club said you couldn't compete your hack). Their shaggy horses were ridden with one hand and would do whatever they asked. Our ponies were on the bit. Always. They spooked constantly, bucked, reared and were totally untrustworthy outside the arena (a result of the terrible riding they suffered).

It still annoys me today that I rode for so many years so badly. Never taught to collect a horse properly, I just rode with ‘a contact’ without ever questioning the reason - or thinking about my poor ponies mouth. I thought I was kind because I used a snaffle bit, never really understanding how a bit works or how harsh it can be when used incorrectly.

Luckily in Germany I learnt what real dressage was. What collection, impulsion and lateral work meant. In Italy I learnt classical dressage, a softer alternative to the latter. My husband (who in those days was just my boyfriend) and an American quarter horse breeder that I worked for, showed me how to ride without a contact and more importantly - taught me how to relax in the saddle.

I rode bareback, I rode bitless, and finally at 18 years of age. I learnt how to gallop wildly. To gallop with no constraints or fear. Boy, was it amazing!

So many people have ridden with us over the years that are afraid of letting go. They hang off the reins, they balance on the horses neck and they tense up the minute something not completely ‘controlled’ occurs.

I clearly remember a Swiss woman crying on the ground years ago.

She had suffered a horrible accident, when a horse had chucked her off and kicked her. Since that day, every time she cantered the horse she rode would buck. I had put her on an amazing little hack that we had at the time (this was when I worked as a guide in Lazio). She was so afraid that for the first canter I attached him to the lead rein and ponied him off my amazing guide horse Ruby. She was ecstatic -so happy that it was touching. I didn't realise at the time that it all came down to her 'letting go'. She felt that since the horse was on the lead rope, she would be safe. She relaxed, and the little horse she was riding (who had never had it any other way) cantered beautifully for her.

Unfortunately two days later we rode out with my boss. He was a typical man out on rides, would never ask the group if they wanted to increase their speed, and would never tell us when we was slowing.
This ride the swiss woman has no warning. The group was not small, their was no lead rein comfort and her nerves won over. I saw it happen in slow motion as I was riding from behind. She hunched, slumped forward and lost her balance. Straight away her little horse let rip three huge bucks that had her on the ground in two seconds. She was tense, she was scared - and she admitted she had tried to hold him back as she was scared he would bolt. She pulled the reins hard when the horse she rode increased his speed andhe felt the stress, the forward hunched position, and that unyielding contact, then the unbalanced rider. Thats all it took.

I can only imagine how many young horses end up in the same book. Doomed as buckers, or bolters due to the fact they reacted strongly the to the hard hands of a new owner.

I have had some nasty side spooks at fast paces on my horses.
Jasmine once ran out when suprised by a pheasant, when we were at full speed gallop near Colognole. Dali once completely cleared a ditch in a huge side swipe spook with three horse behind us, and I had an especially scary run on Maestro once when I tried a hackamore on him for the first time. He reacted badly to the pressure when asked to slow, and bolted. I had no control for at least 500m. Luckily it happened on one of the longest gallops stretches we did with our horses (on a farm in the Mugello along a river bed). I was at the back, and had the time to correct the situation. On all three occasions, what saved me was not slowing, stopping, one rein stops or other - but forward movement. Riding it through, pushing the horse on - even when I was thinking F***

NB. One rein stops are excellent to slow a bolt if your horse has not get gained momentum (ie he takes off from a walk or trot) but at a gallop need to be performed carefully. I have seen horses flipped by owners using the one rein stop at the wrong moment, so be careful.

But seriously. Dressage and schooling aside, why not let your horse enjoy a ride out as much as you - let go of those reins and just go with it.

The western set have had this trick in the bag all along, and it is really unerving how many english style riders had been in very serious accidents compared to the western rider who has never even had formal training.

Even here in Italy, where western riding has really taken over, I never see horses behaving badly/spooking, shying etc on group rides. Even when their are over 30 horses riding together, I am constantly impressed by the horses and riders - all of whom are relaxed and happy, even though generally a good percentage of the horses are full blooded arabian or other hot breeds.

Check out John O Leary's article at www.horseproblems.com.au for more info on this subject.

Love this pic too - three of a group of 11 riders cantering together!

Italy's Equestrian History

2011-12-06T00:52:00.000-08:00

Italy has a noteworthy equestrian past, and some even more noteworthy horse breeds, that are often unrecognized by historians and modern equestrian writers. When I read about the Classical masters of the equine type, I find it especially frustrating that Italians just seem to be omitted from the picture not withstanding their part in history. Not really fair considering that Italy is in many eyes responsible for bringing classical riding out of the dark ages, responsible for the establishment indirectly of the Spanish school of Riding and quite possibly the success of Europe's Cavalry riders up until today -since the first ever horse shoes were in fact, Etruscan!

I like history. My dads a history teacher and a journalist so I guess its in the blood to research geeky facts about the place I live. I love Italy because of the history. The food is great, the wine is superb, but the history is exhilarating! I love the fact that every time I take a step out my front door, I am walking on terrain that the Etruscans farmed, the Romans sacked, Medieval Monks pilgrimed to Rome through... you get the picture.

Equine history is even more exciting for me, since I am a raging horse geek. I love love love horsey art, horsey books, and yes; horsey history.

Etruscan winged horses found in Tarquinia

The Etruscans hold a special place in my heart. They are Tuscanys people, in fact the word "Tuscany" hails from a Romans name for the Etruscans.

Nobody knows where they came from, how they got here, what language they spoke (though it was not indo-European) or what they lived like.

Yes, there are hints and theories. Thousands of tombs and old villages have been dug up, and the frescos, art and limited inscriptions do give us some idea about their societies, as do ancient greek and Roman texts who back in the day were in contact with this thought-provoking and mysterious society through trade and travel.

A few reasons why I like the Etruscans:

1: Woman were treated as equals. They kept their maiden name after marriage (much like todays Italian women), partied with the men, played sport with the men, and were the head of the family - educating and raising their kids how they believed fit. The Greeks and Romans struggled with this. These amazingly emancipated ladies ruling the show (at least in the home) and treated with great respect were a stark contrast to their own women at the time.

2: They loved their horses. Etruscan horses were the fastest around. In Greek races the favorites were always Etruscan horses. The horses depicted in frescos and art are well proportioned elegant looking beasts, ridden without a saddle but with a bit and shoes. There are some amazing equine statues by Etruscan artists such as the winged horses from Tuscia. The beauty of these horses give a good idea of the quality of their mounts back then.

Etruscans invented horse shoes (or at least the earliest shoes found were Etruscan) not the Romans as is commonly stated! Check out the pic below, pretty amazing that these originate thousands of years ago huh!

This pic comes from http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Journals/AJA/6/4/Etruscan_Horseshoes*.html

Sadly these amazing shoes are in an American museum rather than an Italian one . I have a personal gripe at the fact that some 30,000+ amazing Etruscan items are outside Italy in foreign museums generally because curators turn a blind eye to the illegal trade of tomb raiding, and buy items that have been stolen from Italy. I dont know if this is the case with these shoes, and Il keep my gripe for another post, as this is a topic I am a little obsessed with right now.

3: I live in a town that was founded by Etruscans. Iano was once called Agliano in Etruscan times, and there have been loads of Etruscan tombs found around here. I get a weird feeling whenever I am out walking the dogs, that I might be walking over someone very important, or that various strange rock formations may have a deeper meaning to them.

The Romans are said to have been influenced by the Carthaginian style of riding rather than the Etruscans. It surprises me that the Etruscans are not mentioned in classical texts, nor their horses. The Etruscans and ancient Greeks swapped horses/knowledge for hundreds of years, their chariot horses and war horses were admired and the Etruscans were considered excellent horsemen. The Romans stole many things from the Etruscans, as well as ideas and Political theories. They destroyed many of their texts, which is one of the reasons we know very little about them today. It wouldn't surprise me that the Romans were heavily influenced by their horsemanship too, which must have already been influenced by the ancient greeks. Roman war horses were similar looking to the horses in many carvings by the etruscans and continued to be raised in the Tuscian plains for centuries.

The Italians (Romans) were defeated in 410 AD by the barbarians. Classical training of warhorses (or classical dressage as we know it today, since we no longer use our horses for war) died out at that moment.

The Germanic tribes (and later Medieval people in general) preferred big, heavy war chargers to lightweight corsiers. Ridden with force and metal amour. Lightness and elegance, and equestrian art as we know it was lost to the dark ages.

It was an Italian that pulled out Xenophons old texts one day and started to reflect over his writings. War with firearms had brought back the need for a light horse, and thus military training. The art of dressage was in this way revived during the Italian renaissance period of the 16th century, commonly known as the“Baroque Period". Federico Grisone was a Neapolitan nobleman christened the "father of the art of equitation". Grisone wrote one of the first books of Classical dressage since Xenophon‘Gli ordini di cavalcare’ in 1550 (I am attempting to read this book right now; its proving to be hard going btw). He also founded the first Riding academy in Naples in 1532 with Neapolitan horses, a breed that influenced Lipizzaners, Maremmano horses, and many germanic breeds like the Hanoverian, Oldenburger, Trakehner etc which I will write about in my next post.

These academies were designed to teach children of aristocratic families how to ride with elegance, though both the Napolitano and Spanish riding school taught the old school military fixed hand and leg ‘Cheval d'Ecole’ training.

Now to why Grisone is so controversial.

Grisone used some horrendous training techniques. There are many good articles about these, with all sorts of gory pictures of bits and nasty little men with sticks.

Some of his famous training fixes include sticking a live porcupine under the horses tail or a cat tied to a pole on its stomach . He would deal with a horse that was scared of water by dunking his head until he almost drowned, and to get some of the heavy contractions in his horses mouths, he would sometimes have teeth pulled!

In defense of old Grisone, it should be remembered that he lived at a time where horses were treated as beasts of burden rather than works of art. The medieval ages were a rough time for horses, and the renaissance was a time of change. It is easy to rip to pieces this man for his way of training and thinking, but if he was alive today it is very probable he would be a different rider using very different techniques. In credit to Grisone, his higher thinking (by at least opening the discussion of the Alta Scuola, and a new riding style) would eventually improve horses‘lot’ immensely with the revival of classical training throughout Europe. I am not going to post all his nasty bits on here (a quick google search will get those up for you).

Anyhow, back on track. While I am not defending Grisone, he did publish a book that got people thinking and influenced a new type of horseman. While some of his treatments were no doubt downright nasty, he did have a lot of good ideas too, and was a big fan of Xenophon in general. His prodigies and ideas spread to France and the European continent where thankfully they were modified to more a gentle aproach, with more emphasis put on training each horse as an individual using Xenophon's ideals,

When I master this book, I will review it in more detail, as well as talk about what really excited me about Grisone; which was the Napolitano horse.

But for now, addio and happy riding.

A whole bunch of horsey memories...

2011-12-02T13:48:00.000-08:00

A young Navarro learning the ropes

Riding to Vicchio (Giotto the artists birthplace)

Blatantly posing in front of the Villa di Colognole's rose garden

Navarro has always been a lead horse just like his rider

Jasmine on a sunny day at Monte Giove

Taribo and I on our way up to Muraglione. Riding pants undone as 5 months pregger

Jasmine thinking life over at our house in Cintoia

Paolos best friend riding home to Greve in Chianti

Dali at his worst. Why farriers nickname him 'stupidina'

Biscotto and Rob out on the medieval ride

Vin. You call that a knife...

Shopping trip... and guns and stuff...

Just a few pics of our rides in the past, as today instead of writing I shot down to the paddock to see my horses during my lunchtime - still so sunny here, and days just made for horse riding!

Life death and injury in the Tuscan countryside

2011-12-01T12:09:00.000-08:00

Working in Lazio, our neighbour a prominent business man from Rome had two foreign workers looking after his home in the country.

One day the worker ran out of petrol in his work truck, a three wheeled Ape often used in France and Italy for light farm work.

He walked home, filled a small tank with petrol and hitched a ride up the road with my co-worker Marcello, an older farm worker from the nearby village.

While he refilled the vehicle manually, he made a silly mistake that he will no doubt regret for the rest of his life.

He lit a cigarette.

You can imagine what happened next.

Marcello saw it all. Saw the explosion, saw him catch on fire, saw him try and tear off his clothes (which were made of synthetic plastic material) which stuck to his skin burning him further. Marcello helped beat out the flames and took him to hospital. He suffered 1st degree burns to his face, chest and hands. For a month Marcello and I were responsible for taking him to Aquapendente to have his dressing changed. His wife couldn't drive, and his boss lived in Rome so was of no help.

Neither of the pair spoke Italian, not usually a problem since they were pretty self sufficient in the farmhouse. That was until one of them was injured. It was no doubt a very scary time for them.

It was a sad situation that could so easily have been avoided, and left the worker badly scarred for life. I still remember picking the guy up in the work truck with his bandaged face and hands.

I have been reading a book about our village Iano by a famous doctor that was raised here (actually a cousin of one of my neighbors).

He talks about life here in the 30's and 40's when our quiet little borgo was a bustling town with more than 100 families, a busy bar, two shops and restaurant.

It is interesting reading how everyone lived without electricity and running water. The sad abandoned farmhouses that I pass on a daily basis were lived in, loved and maintained by families that worked here as tenant farmers. Back in these days, farm accidents happened frequently. The only doctor lived 7 km away at San Vivaldo, and was one of the most respected men in the area. One of only three that was given the title 'lei'.

Reading the statistics of deaths, the majority were women between 18 and 40, usually from childbirth. If I had been born in those days, I too would have become a statistic. I was saved by an emergency cesarian due to my daughters breached position and other serious complications. Sobering thought - but for centuries childbirth was the number one killer of otherwise healthy women. It must have been awful for those poor tenant farmers who lost a mother, a worker and a friend all at once.

Paolos good friend lost his mother to complications that followed childbirth in the 50's. We recently found her grave at the Iano cemetery. A beautiful woman about my age, who died far too soon.

On a positive note, it was interesting reading to learn about the school in Torri (where the horses were located last year) the mining industry which provided jobs to so many, the fun times spent listening to the radio together when a radio was a novelty, and the accounts of the old land owner (il pescatore) who is still living in the Villa California up near Palagio. Once he controlled all of the land around here (and the people) but was forced to sell up almost everything when the mezzadria collapsed and his money disappeared.

I distinctly remember his daughter coming to our house last year during the siesta break, and blasting us for passing through a small piece of forest that still belonged to him on horseback. Technically, we should have been allowed on this track as it was not fenced or marked - but we agreed not to pass again to keep the old bugger happy. After reading about him in this book, I cant help but think he was not a very nice landowner (as many mezzadria landlords were in those days), and he certainly isnt a very nice man today either...

A horse with no name

2011-11-29T11:10:00.000-08:00

I tried to keep off the topic of mistreatment of animals on this blog. This isn't because I don't care. Quite the opposite.

I started this blog when Chianti Trails was alive, and the focus in the early days was advertising and keeping clients informed with what was going on in our lives. Times have changed, and now after a year of not working in the equine industry, I see this blog changing direction. The writing will hopefully reflect this.

Since arriving in Italy I have often been frustrated at the lack of animal protection in this country.

In the south of Italy, black kittens are still killed at birth for their unlucky status, dogs all over the country live miserable lives chained up or in dirty cement cages. Horses. Even before the economic crisis hit, we viewed horses much worse than this one in the pic above - lame, backsore, wounded and with broken spirits.

What can be done? Horse rescues are the first to say that this is the problem in Italy. Mistreatment of animals happens everywhere in the world, but at least in other countries there are rescue centers, there are RSPCA's and Animal cruelty organizations. Here, its often the media that has to get involved to get these horses help. Montaione has the first horse rescue in Italy, a place where sequestered horses can live in free herds. Even here, funds restrict the help they can give, especially to elderly or sick horses.

The pictures here are of a horse with no name. One of our rescue horses in 2009.

A guy from Pistoia had called me up about him. 15hh, good for kids, and a cheap price (which in hindsight wasn't that cheap after all considering the vet bills spent on him).

The girls in the picture above were two of our helpers from the US and Holland. The guy holding the mule was the owner.

The pictures don't show how bad he was. His legs were lumpy, his face had a big ugly calcification on it (that looked like a cyst), and he was full of worms.

He did however trot up sound, and he was fine out on the road and worked well in the field when we viewed him. He was cheap in those days, and hey - I felt sorry for him.

I took a video back to Paolo, and discussed in depth the idea of buying him. Paolo agreed, and he was trucked over by his owner a week later. Paolo wasn't at home when the seller arrived. He turned up just as the guy was leaving - and stormed inside to tell me that years earlier he had gone to see another horse at the same mans property, that was so thin it couldn't walk... he had called the authorities, which of course had done nothing, and now I had gone and paid money to the guy for a suspect horse.

This guy was not the kindly 'grandfather' selling his grandchild's horse that he made out to be... but actually a dodgy horse dealer, selling horses with fake passports.

By that stage we had the horse on our property, and I didn't want to give him back to the horrible man;so we kept him.

The passport (which I hadn't checked over thoroughly) had been tampered with. The horse in the passport was a chestnut with distinctly different markings to the horse outside. He was also overdue for a codgkins test (compulsory in Italy and a big deal if the horse comes back positive) so we kept him at our house rather than the stables with the other horse just in case he was infected. When the passport authorities came to check him over and take his blood test, they were appalled at the 'twinked out' passport. The original owners details were taken down (I hope they gave him hell) and a new passport was written up for the horse in front of us. "What do you want to call him?" they asked. Paolo replied "Since his origins are dubious, lets call him that Dubbio".

He was dubious in nature, and after three weeks grazing in our back yard (see pic below) two worming sessions, and a good bath... he became a different horse.

His test came back negative, and eventually he was moved to the stables with the others.

He was a good trail horse if he was following. If not he could react strongly - especially if he was asked to do something he didn't like. He was good with kids and beginners in the arena, and he was a nice general school horse if he was only expected to ride circles follow the leader. He hated to ride out alone, or to change routine. His legs were so bad that he could only go on the easy hacks (we were still in Rufina at this stage, where 90% of the riding was tough mountain trails), and he was picked on by the other horses so badly that he had to live alone or with Evita (the old grandma of the herd). He was essentially an ugly horse - but akin to the runt of a litter of puppies, this only made him more popular with his riders.

He was not worked hard during his time with us due to his soundness issues (though he did vet up fine strangely).

Our vet thought he had probably had been a racehorse (possibly a trotter) and then worked as a western trail horse. He neck reined well, worked off the buckle and leg nicely. Someone, somewhere had worked him very hard though and his legs showed this. He was sold for less than his purchase price to Carlo our friend, as his 8 year old granddaughters horse where he is still living today.

A lovely day to bless the horses

2011-11-19T11:04:00.001-08:00

Our horses were a lean mean trekking team, and were also blessed: literally!!!

At the start of 2009 a bunch of crappy events set the year off to a bad start.

When we visited the sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso on one of our Medieval Monastery treks, our friend the priest offered to bless the horses outside the church for good measure.

Here are the photos of the 'blessing' of Maestro, Brena, Taribo, Jasmine, Syria and Stellina.

We ended up having an excellent season in 2009, and visited this lovely religious retreat on various occasions. The ride up to Madonna del Sasso was steep. For the final section the horses were led up old stairs, part of the original pilgrimage route. After a hard mornings ride (which included a visit to the Trebbio castle), the arrival at Madonna del Sasso signified a welcome rest and picnic lunch before a fairly difficult ride in the afternoon to the Monte Senario monastery, and the final nights accommodation at Bivigliano.

This days ride was one of the best on any of our treks. I rode this trail later in the year with Dali, splitting the riding and backup driving with Emily. This was was an eventful ride, with a hospital visit on the second day thanks to Maestro's Lipizzaner jumping style over a small ditch - climaxing into a hilarious drunken final night on the dutch liquor 'Petrus'.

Looking through some of these old photos makes me very nostalgic. We have ridden our horses to some amazing places over the years. Our horses proved time and time again that they were incredibly fit and willing, and the people along the way (both clients and locals) made the experience unique every ride.

Horses tethered for lunch

Blessing by the priests

Sunday Musing

2011-11-13T08:32:00.001-08:00

This morning I couldn't resist a morning ride over the hills. The weather all weekend has been dry and warm, and yesterdays wind has dried out the mud nicely.

Dali seemed a bit off today, he was spookier than usual, and had the general appearance of a guy that spent last night partying hard, and needed a coffee badly.

I gave him a quick lunge and check over to make sure he wasn't sore or injured. He was fine though. 100% straight, just a bit grumpy, I tacked him up without issue, and he rode fine in the field so off we went.

Dali was purchased through photos. We never tried him in person, and he is one of various horses that we brought sight unseen.

For a trail horse, looks are not as important as conformation. What is important, is a good back, straight legs and well formed hooves. The old saying 'No foot No horse' still rings true for all disciplines, but is especially important when the horse will be ridden on hills and varied terrain.

We have had problems with horses with short backs Arabian especially, since they have one less rib than other breeds. These horses needed special saddles to avoid back problems (we used Podiums, or Arabian western saddles) as normal saddles weighed down over the sensitive loin area.

Long backs (such as lovely Evita, who was like many Criollo horses - with her comfortable flat and still gait) had a stiff rigid back that later suffered arthritis.

Mutton withers can make saddle fit difficult, and saddles tend to move with unbalanced riders - this was a big problem with the native ponies (Haflingers and Noric horses). Often riders will over tighten their girth to compensate balance issues - just look around the average riding school.

Shark Fin withers - I would run for the hills before I brought another horse with this issue - custom saddles are not made for shark fins (I tried 40) and though shims and pads can be brought to help the issue, the only real solution is a custom made saddle - which means $$$. There are desperate forum members all over the net looking for a solution to their horses shark fins - often these horses have muscle atrophy as riders use narrow saddles simply because they clear the wither- causing nasty pressure points behind the wither. No wonder these horses buck. We eventually used a Maremmano saddle with padding for our shark finned horse; a costly saddle worth almost as much as the horse was. In Italy, where people buy a horse to fit their saddle, many will just ride a high withered horse in a custom mexican western saddle, causing painful sores to the wither.

Slab sided horses are also to be avoided, as back pain will occur due to the reduced base of support with narrow back muscles. TB's and Trotters often have this flaw. Saddle fit is difficult, and they also develop muscle atrophy since they lack general strength to carry riders over distance. It makes me very angry to see a 17 hh slab sided TB forced to carry a rider of 100 kg just because he is a big horse.

Confirmation is important in any horse, but for trail riding in Tuscany a horse without strong back and good legs is useless. We have had horses that were lovely in the arena, but disastrous on steep hills. Horses for courses being the key phrase here; what works well as a show-jumper or racehorse may not work well as a trekking horse.

I took Dali along the criniera today, a soft dirt trail that runs along the hills under the Volterra cliffs. It is a fairly easy ride with a steep start and finish, but otherwise long wide stretches, perfect for cantering and trot work. He was good. Really good. Even riding through an old abandoned farm full of scary farm objects and birds everywhere. It was only when we reached a big field 1 km from home, that he decided it was time to throw his toys. Three rears, a pathetic run towards the road, and a bit of head tossing. It wasn't anything huge, but the whole atmosphere of the ride changed. I stupidly jumped off after staying on for the rears, which put me back three steps when I jumped back on, as he had won the first battle in his head. On the ground I was worse off, my horses eyes were rolling back in his head in typical 'mad tb' fashion, and he was focused on one thing - getting back to the paddock. He went up once, and almost pulled the reins from my hand, but then chilled out and began to 'think' again. I jumped back in the saddle quickly, scolding myself for jumping down in the first place. Everyone told me that after having a child women get nervy with their riding - for me it was busting my knee and after three months on crutches - I don’t want to go down the cripple road again any time soon. Yes yes - I should have sold my horse and brought something saner, but hey. Im a sucker for pain.

Back in the saddle, we got back in sync by doing two large circles, jumping the ditch back to the road twice (making him focus on something else),and riding home via the small track rather than the normal ride home. Realizing he may not be as close as he thought, he calmed down and focused on the ride again, ears forward as if nothing had happened- and we rode all the back on the buckle, with reins long and loopy.

Back at the stables, I worked 10 minutes in the saddle with him just to make sure he was ok. He was fine, and we finished on a good note. It had just been a tantrum that was brewing from the start of the ride - fine. We all have off days.

Riding alone can be challenging. I sometimes forget that, and today reminded me that all horses will have their moments, and we need to be ready to deal with tantrums correctly without loosing our patience. I was glad to be riding in a western saddle today, the extra security on a grumpy horse is worth its weight in gold, not to mention the balance riding down steep hills.

Vicenzo, his wife and their friend came back after a three hour ride soon after I arrived back. Two of their horses were prancing and nervous much like Dali, and neither was sweated even after three hours of riding. Both of their horses were trekking horses too - used for 7 hour rides through all weather - and are now like our two, pleasure horses. Vicenzo's reasoning for the nervous horses was simple. Today they needed to ride slow to the speed of the nervous friend - the horses never really worked hard. Looking back at my barely sweated gelding, I think he may be right. The old sweated saddle blanket is a cure for so many vices.

Autumn in Tuscany

2011-11-08T00:01:00.000-08:00

Autumn brings its own special magic to Tuscany. This week the rain has hit. Flooding in Genova caused 6 fatalities last week, this comes after many deaths in the Cinque Terre and Northern Tuscany the week before. Yesterday it was Elba's turn, with flooding bringing the island to its knees.

Last night the newsreader declared that this winter, we should expect one of the coldest on record. After an extreme summer, we are now set to have an extreme winter, with snow and ice - and lots of the famous Tuscan rain.

The landscape here quickly turns from dry, hard dirt to sticky mud. The fields after a day of rain already look un-passable. Many of the CAI trails around Volterra are dirt roads, not just any dirt either - but volcanic tuffo mud, which turns into a type of gooey clay when wet. Hunters trucks often get stuck along the trail to Castelfalfi, the proverbial ‘townie’ thinking his 4X4 can go anywhere. Not so here. The only way to get these trucks out was a tractor - we stopped using the trails with the horses for a period due to all the shoes pulled too.

I succumbed to rugging the horses last night. I do try to keep them living as 'natural' as possible, and since they have a field shelter and the weather has not been too bad up until now; the rugs seems unnecessary. Last night a lively storm near Volterra convinced me otherwise, and in the dark I pulled out smelly winter rugs that haven't been used since March.

The horses remained calm whilst I rugged them up, even though lightening lit up the sky behind us as I buckled them up. The energy in the air when there is a Tuscan storm is magnificent, powerful and often a little scary. Our horses are well used to storms. We would often have to ride through them, such is the unpredictable nature of Tuscan weather. Our paddocks were organized for the horses well being and not our comfort, so more often than not, they were a ten minutes walk from the stables (the closest decent grazing). They had great paddocks, big, full of grass and with natural shelter in the form of hedges and large fruit trees - but bringing in 15 horses while a storm raged could be challenging at the best of times. The energy in the air that I mentioned earlier would pass to the horses. The excitement can work with you or against you. When leading three horses at a time, sometimes its better to have the horses focused on getting back to the stables than thinking about grazing or nipping their paddock mates, but it could be challenging when the horses were jumping about and surging forward -forgetting all of their manners in an attempt to reach their boxes.

The Castelfalfi olive oil has been harvested, and Paolo is bringing home some of the new oil tonight.

I love this time of year, when Oil is tangy and my favorite easy drinking wine 'Vino Novello' is available.

This is a good time to get you hands on vino novello (new wine), a typical farmers wine - in fact, apparently it was only 'commercialized' since the 1930's, up until then it was usually only found in the house of a contadino, or his relatives that managed to bring it to town. Even today, we have never actually 'brought' Vino Novello ourselves ... it is usually gifted to us by a neighbor or friend, made from his own small vineyard.

For me, Vino Novello makes me think of Marco and his 'banda' in Rufina, our friends in Colognole.

It brings back memories of sitting down at a long table, in front of a big open fire with Maya playing on the old tiles floor with Snoopy (his little dog), while everyone helps with preparing the table with a plastic cup of fresh wine from the vineyard outside, laughing, talking, discussing the best place to find mushrooms, eating cinghiale stew followed by chestnuts on the fire topped with grappa and sugar.

Vino Novello is made with a different process to normal wine and goes from grapes to wine in 20 days. Fresh, tangy and light, it also has a kick - with a minimum alcohol content of 11%

(thats a minimum %!). What is great about Vino Novello, is that it doesn't have any tannins in it...which conversely means you have to drink it fast, as it doesn't last long once opened. Thats never been an issue in our house though.

Vino Novello is available from the 6th November and must be drunk by Easter, this isn't a wine to put in the cellar as it does not keep, so buy it to drink fast!

One year on

2011-10-31T02:25:00.000-07:00

Its 'All Saints' weekend here right now.

Unlike us Kiwis and Aussies, Italians have firmly protected their time off, and have not succumbed to the Antipodean habit of making holidays “productive.” Rather than set a floating holiday on a Monday or a Friday to assure a three-day weekend,Italians just fare il ponte (make a bridge). If a holiday falls on anything other than Monday or Friday, many people will simply take off the extra day(s) in between, creating a long weekend. Schools are the first to join the bandwagon - and made all the bridges official school holidays - meaning anyone with kids is forced to take the day off too.

It is an anniversary of sorts. One year since we closed the business and rehome the horses. This time last year we completed our final ride. The weather was much colder than this year. Gusty winds blew hard, and we had to wear two or three fleeces/jackets at a time. Dali threw a few mini tantrums up at Castelfalfi, when the wind lifted the pieces of tin littered around the old abandoned cattle farm. Taribo chucked in a couple of excited bucks when we all cantered home.

On one of the days out, we ate at Ponte d'Era - a restaurant at the base of Volterra, with a green park for the horses to remain tethered while we ate. We rode right past where our horses now live, and yesterday Paolo and I took out Dali, Maya and the dogs for a family 'ride/walk'.

I took Dali ahead with Leila. Paolo stayed back with Maya and Jack, had a picnic, and then rode Dali back when we met up afterwards. Leila managed to flush out 12 pheasants as we rode on. Leaping in and out of the bushes, rolling in the grass, and even picking up a tiny pinscher 'amante' who followed us almost the whole way home (until Jack came to the rescue).

Unlike Jack, who keeps behind the horse - Leila usually will run ahead, emerge herself in the bushes, and then spook birds or deer as we caught up.

Paolos theory has always been the more crazy things that happen on the ride the better - as thats the only way a horse learns. I agree totally, and the fact Dali handled everything like an old pro shows that this 'exposure training' has helped him mature. Even as we work in the field, he always has Jack nipping his heels, or Maya throwing clods of dirt, spraying water, or beeping the car horn. Two young horses came galloping out of their boxes, hunters fired shots at close range, dogs ran at him, and of course pheasants flew all around. He was a first class horse, and the school work we have done recently, meant when I needed to negotiate a river bed, jump a ditch, or chase away Leilas 'amante' - he was soft and responsive, moving off light neck reining and seat aids. All in all. A pleasure to ride.

Now as the sun shines, its best I take the dogs for their morning walk.

Horse Rellies

2011-10-19T14:16:00.000-07:00

Recently I heard of another horsey couple in our wider circle of friends that has arrived at splitsville. It was a sad thing to hear, as they seemed like an amazing couple - with a shared passion for four legged animals, especially horses - or was that the problem?

Over the years of having a horsey husband, I have often pondered whether things might be easier if we didn't both have the horse bug. Numerous nights have been spent with huge arguments over trivial things like horse feed, worming routines, or the way a horse was ridden earlier in the day. We have cultural equine battles to add to the mix. The way I would do something 'back home', is different to the way things are done 'in Italy'.

Working together from early in the morning to late at night causes additional stress too, and horsey hours mean long days working under often extreme weather conditions such as sun/rain/snow.

Would it better with a non - horsey partner though?

The non supportive wouldn't understand sleeping in the stables with a colicky horse, the ridiculous money spent on feed, gear, vets etc, or why smelling like horse poop after an early morning box cleaning mission is ok in any way...

When Paolo and I set up Chianti Trails, we never imagined that our beloved business might become a sort of poisoned chalice. We both worked in the horse industry, we had the horses, licenses, gear and knowledge - it seemed the next reasonable step. Its true that setting up a tourism business with a baby on the way probably wasn't the brightest idea - but young and passionate, we thought we knew best. Only now, a year since we closed the business - do I realize how stressed out we had let ourselves become.

Over the weekend we caught up with some old horse pals in Rufina, and it was great to remember what things were like before the business became our life. Maya rode a pony, played with kids - and Paolo and I could relax with a glass of wine without thinking about the horses/next days ride etc. Horses featured in the conversations, but they were far from the main topic. General banter about people and places replaced in depth discussion over barefoot versus shod, or bitted versus bitless.

Some people are cut out for a trekking business. We were not, and I am happy we figured that out now - and not five or ten years down the track when quite possibly we had gone down the road of the people mentioned above. I don't regret one minute of our 5 years trekking through Tuscany. We met amazing people, rode through amazing places, and had some fantastic horses to share the experience with. Chianti Trails was a life experience for us. One to learn from and remember. Now though, our lives are moving in different directions, positive and interesting ones - and while horses are still part of our lives, they do not control us anymore.

I will sometimes spend 30 minutes teaching tricks to Dali rather than ride. This is a luxury I could never afford when horses were our work, and time was a privilege. Now we can enjoy our horses spiritually as well as physically. I see the difference in how they react to us, how they work with a calmer demeanor, and how they interact with each other. Its a nice change actually, and the rules were set early on. Each of us is responsible for our horses training, and the other has to accept the differences and keep their mouth shut.

In a funny twist of fate, I find we almost have done a complete role reversal - with Paolo working more on dressage and groundwork with Navarro, and me working in western style on various games with Dali.

So far its worked a charm, and both horses are benefitting not only from a jazzed up work routine, but a happier, positive vibe between their owners. We can even talk horse at home without an argument.

What a change!

Terra dei Cavalli - Sardinia

2011-10-12T03:35:00.000-07:00

Paolo, Maya and I escaped to Sardegna for the wedding of his (our) niece.

The entire weekend was lovely - and my first experience of a traditional wedding ( 6 hours before we even made it to the restaurant) was great. We drove about in decorated cars through the small town of Uta, beeping, yelling, drinking and watching the newlyweds break plates in 10 different parts of town. The reception itself was 5 hours of non stop eating, interrupted by continuous cheers and toasts. It was a good day.

We managed one full day relaxing at Tuerreddu beach on the Friday. To be swimming in the sea in mid October is a special treat, and Maya enjoyed the day immensely.

A tourist campaign in Sardegna (or Sardinia) describes the sun scorched island as the 'Terra dei Cavalli', or land of the horse. Driving about, there are signs for maneggi (riding centers) everywhere. Sadly, Sardegna is being hit hard by the economic crisis since much of their tourism was traditionally Italian - and Italians are choosing destinations like Puglia, or Morocco this year, where prices are lower. This means that the maneggi are hit hard too, and I saw many horses in pitiful states, standing thin and miserable in dry fields (to compound the problem, this year there is a feed crisis). Horses throughout Italy, and no doubt Europe, are currently experiencing tough times, and the popularity of horse meat in Sardinia is the reality of what happens when people cant afford to feed their riding horses.

We seem to always be to short on time to visit Sardegna thoroughly - but I hope to make it up to the Giara Plateau on our next visit to see the wild horses; as these local breeds are genetically, some of the purest in the world.

The Giara is home to an extraordinary breed of horse that has been described by scientists as a living fossil. Nobody quite knows where these horses came from, but it is almost certain they are not native to the island. Remains from the Bronze age however, confirm that they have been around for a long time and were probably brought over by the Phoenicians or the ancient Greeks. The ponies ran wild all over the Sardegna,right up the late middle ages, and now remain isolated on the Giara plateau, where they are now protected.

They are not actually ponies as such, but are miniature horses and stand around 13 hh in height. These pictures show the terrain in the Giara (and much of Sardegna), and you can see why this little horses are so hardy and strong. Sardegna is rocky and arid, and these little horses which probably come from Africa or Asia, now make excellent riding horses for brave Sardinian children.

A few years ago I watched a 10 year old Sardinian girl show jumping a Giara x pony at the Fiera di Cavalli in Verona. The pony was fast and brave, but the little girls riding was quite simply exceptional. She didn't win the event, her pony was a little too fast, and knocked a pole - but she was the star of the show. Her pony was nothing special (especially compared to some of the expensive german riding ponies competing), but the excitement this pony provoked when it came into the ring had everyone standing and clapping by the end.

A larger and equally interesting Sardinian breed is the Sarcidano horse. These horse date back to 20,000 years ago. Genetically they are different to all other Italian breeds, and are now the result of much excitement among scientists due to their genetic purity.

These horses reach around 140cm at the wither, and a nice all purpose horse with a large honest head, and a short arabian style back.

Of course Sardinia is most famous nowadays, for its Anglo Arabian horse, the AAS, an elegant sport horse used especially for show jumping and Palio events. Most of the horses in the Siena palio are AAS horses, as pure thoroughbreds are now not permitted after a serious of accidents which were put down to the breeds fragility. The AAS has a minimum of 25 % arabian blood, so is better suited for the tight turns and slippery surfaces. Below is a nice example of the breed. The rope around the neck is a typical Sardinian training practice for young horses - and many of the horses I saw in Sardinia this time had this rope on.

Finally, our own Sardo horse Navarro. Hardly an ideal example of the breed - and tending far more towards the arab than the TB - but still, an excellent example of a hardy horse for trekking.

Italian horse slaughter

2011-09-24T09:30:00.000-07:00

Finally it is the weekend.

Maya is 'singing' with Jack as I write this. They play a game in which he howls and she sings. Border Collies have an awful high pitched bark, and mixed in with the voice of an out of tune three year old it is not the nicest.

This week my husband decided to keep his horse (which has been intermittently advertised since we closed the business).

We had a really nice guy (an ex client), come out to try him last week - but in the end, Paolo decided that since we are here for a while longer, it makes sense to keep him. The horse industry has bottomed out, prices for quality horses are now at rock bottom, people are butchering horses because they cant sell them, or giving them away to anyone with a bit of land (who could have a change of circumstances just as fast as anyone) and honestly - right now, its a risky time to sell a horse that has 'quirks'.

Paolo and I have always had very different horses. His horses have always been 'workers'. Tough, aloof, yet loyal to their owner. Both Jasmine and Navarro could never be described as affectionate, nor were they ever expected to be - but both would ride through hell and back if they were asked to, and had a quiet understanding of who was their boss, and how they should behave.

Taribo and Dali in comparison, were always curious and cuddly (though Paolo would say they were a bit ignorant and overstepped the limits), and they were always quick to argue out on a ride if they saw something they didnt like the look of (cows for example).

I agree with him that a horse needs to be treated like a horse and not like a kitten, and without realizing it, I think a lot of people do ruin their horses forever just by treating them like a substitute child.

Though I secretly glow inside when my horse whinnies when he sees me walking toward him with a halter, I have learnt ti treat him like a horse.

He doesn't get tidbits (some days he might get a lump of dried bread if hes lucky), and his grooming routine is utilitarian at best - but he still likes me, and I know that he knows the boundaries. I find the less affectionate I am to him, the more affectionate he is to me. Treat em mean keep em keen?

But seriously. I dont treat my horse badly, I like the odd cuddle as much as anyone - but a good riding horse needs to be self sufficient. He needs to be brave enough on a ride to deal with whatevers going on without a rider jumping off and telling him its ok. He needs to deal with being saddled up or rugged quickly when required, and to stay in his field alone if required.

We have all seen 'that' horse owner - the one that spends thousands on gear, and hours washing tails and grooming, yet is too scared to venture out of the arena, or to ride on a windy day in case their horse plays up. They wish for a beautiful horse with character on the ground, but expect an unrealistic perfectly behaved animal in the saddle that will make up for their own fear issues.

Navarro very nearly ended up on a meat truck after he figured out his former owner (a young girl) was terrified of him. The thirteen year old's father thought it would be fitting to buy a green stallion for his little girl. Stallions (especially green stallions) and children just dont mix. Within a year she had turned him into a horse that would bite, buck, rear and turn his rear end on any human that came close. His former rider has quit riding now, after being thrown various times - and Navarro was lucky to find a home that put him to work. He was sold for meat prices, and had he not found a suitable rider - that would have been his next stop.

He is a horse that reacts well to a hard slog and needs little affection wise - but he is smart.

I dont believe in 'mens' horses in general. But Navarro is that type. He needs a no nonsense rider, otherwise he takes the lead, and any horse that thinks hes the boss is a danger.

Interested buyers would scoff down the phone at this- but in a country where far too many horses end up on the slaughter line, selling any horse (even a beginners mount) is never an easy. If they end up in a bad way,pick up a serious vice the only buyer is the butcher.

I have a lot to say on the horse meat trade in Italy, an industry that is plagued by clandestine butcheries, theft, and mistreatment of animals. Passports are falsified so that race horses can be slaughtered (horses that have probably already been recycled as carriage horses for tourists in Rome or Florence after their racing career), and that should never have ended up on the table anyway due to the drugs that have been pumped into them.

Horses in Italy by law should be either DPA Destinati alla Produzione di Alimenti per l’uomo(Horses destined for human consumtion) or equini non DPA (Horses not destined for human consumption).

A horses that is non DPA will put off a buyer in Italy, as everyone wants a quick fix if the horse gets old or injured. By law a horse that is put down or dies naturally on your property, needs to be taken away and cremated by a registered truck driver. Its a pricey experience, especially for someone that has also lost the value of their horse. We paid over 500 euro for Biscotto when he died, and Paolo had to move the body from the bottom of the valley up to the main road himself otherwise there would have been more fees. Many people simply dont wait for the horse to reach this point. They ship off their horse as soon as its no longer a viable, selling to a dealer or even directly to the butchers.

We have had people ring up about our horses, and tell us they are not interested when they hear that they are non DPA. I made sure all of our horses were non DPA from the day they were signed over to us. Once they are non DPA they cannot be butchered for the rest of their lives. This is no real protection though, as there is a clandestine trade in non DPA horses, which generally come from the race track (but are often simply stolen from their paddocks) in illegal butcheries set up to meet the high demand for horse meat in Italy.

I worked in a stable in Lazioo for 7 months in 2006/07. During my time working in Lazio, I was responsible for a fabulous team of 12 horses. During the winter we tried and brought home four horses from a local dealer- three in terrible conditions one of which, a red chestnut Sardinian mare with a swollen leg,that we named 'Ruby' became my favorite guiding horse. I worked all winter with this lovely team of horses, trained the three year olds, taught lessons with the older horses, and enjoyed some exciting riding adventures with my favorite seasoned trekking horses into the surrounding hills.

After I left the farm, my bridesmaid - and great friend Susan, took over my job and brought with her to Italy, her own stunning Hanoverian stallion.

Three months later she called me with some horrible news. The horses had all been stolen - including her own stallion.

The horses were all taken in the middle of the night. Somebody had scoped the place out and the horses were taken through a small forest trail that only the locals knew about (in the middle of winter too, so slippery and difficult to negotiate horses through). The dogs (three large shepherds) never barked, the neighbors never heard anything - and the thieves managed to load thirteen horses (two stallions amongst them) and drive away ... without anyone hearing a sound.

I dont know the full details of the investigation, but I do know that nearby other horse owners lost precious horses too on the same night. The farm was in the middle of Buttero country, and the other horses would no doubt have been well trained work horses, a precious commodity in one of Italy's poorer rural regions.

The horses were probably taken directly to a clandestine butchery, and deposed of within 24 hours. None of the horses were ever seen again, though I still secretly hope they were taken abroad by a dealer - the truth is, that they probably ended up on someone's plate. It still makes me sick inside thinking of the end these beautiful horses met. All sound, healthy riding horses that became inncocent victims of the mafia's trade in horse meat.

Personally, I will not eat horse meat knowingly - my family (Italian one that is) have grown up considering it as normal as cow or sheep, and I cant really blame them for that, because well, in Aussie we have Kangaroo at the supermarkets... They all respect my decision not to eat my equine pals though, and not to feed Maya anything she may hate me for later. Horse meat is a favorite baby food (see below).

And here below are some photos of the lost horses. The handsome black gelding below was a registered Sella Italiana. Only 6 years old. What a waste!

Giove and the hose

Imperio and Lunga

Nuvolla

Morella

My girl Ruby

Giove and Carlos the show jumper

The gang out with a bunch of kids

Ruby and Lunga

Pedro Torres

2011-09-14T05:40:00.000-07:00

It has been a busy past couple of weeks, with horses featuring throughout.

Last week I spent a morning riding near Siena with a group of clients from the agency. It was a unique experience riding as a client, and brought back many emotions from my years as a guide. I was given the job of looking after the rear of the ride, as there were a couple of the so-called experts that proved to be complete beginners that needed an extra hand from the guide up front.

The guide, an Italian guy of few words, was very patient with the group and great with the horses. I liked that he refused to let the heavier riders on the older horses, and that he asserted himself when he needed to, without ever seeming stroppy.

The horses were excellent - quiet and well mannered, and the ride was a nice easy hack with no difficult terrain at all, and hardly any flies.

My horse was a nice ex racehorse, calm and relaxed on the ride - and the beginners also had no issues with their horses which were all ex showjumpers.

It was a nice experience to be out riding in company, and later in the evening both Paolo and I rode our two back in the fields with good results from both.

Sabrina, the owner of the yard, invited me to come along to watch the Pedro Torres clinic they were hosting over the weekend. Paolo and I went out on Sunday and watched until around 2pm.

We bumped into a few faces that we knew from various horse circles, and I was happy to arrive just in time to see a lusitano mare that I knew from Il Paretaio ridden by Pedro.

Ombra was one of three Lusitano mares at Il Paretaio when I worked the 2006 season. She was the horse of a Norwegian client, and one of her sisters was owned by an instructer at Il Paretaio, and the other was in training (and has now been sold to the UK).

I rode Ombras sister Peccato on numerous occasions, and the three black sisters (as we called them) were a lovely sight when out grazing in the olive fields. The picture below is from Il Paretaio, and thats me leading the three back inside after turnout in the evening.

Ombra was often ridden by the instructors at IP, but was never cantered. She started her ridden career late, as she had been a brood-mare in her early years, and during the time I knew her, she was only worked in the arena at walk and trot.

One of the highlights of Pedro's clinic for me, was watching him work with Ombra - watching her canter beautifully under him, and then under his owner.

He was a magnificent rider, quiet with his aids, and with a beautiful classical seat. He was also a really nice guy, and would come and chat with everyone in a mix of spanish and italian - smiling, and laughing with not a hint of arrogance.

He worked primarily with the horse, he didn't bother telling the rider how to sit, or what to change - but he did advise on how the horse should work, and this was his forte - creating something beautiful out of a young or problematic horse.

The photos below show him correcting Ombra. I would have loved to see him riding Ombra's owners other horse - a lusitano stallion.

Apparently the day before he received a standing ovation, after putting on a display of piaffe, passage and pirouette that had everyone gobsmacked.

It was an interesting morning, and inspiring to both Paolo and I. Here are some photos of Pedro and Ombra.

There are some fantastic youtube vids of Pedro doing working equitation comps, I recommend looking him up, as they are an inspiration to all types of riders.

The panther of Maremma and other Italian oddities

2011-08-27T15:21:00.000-07:00

Today Paolo brought home a baby squirrel he found at the golf course. It seems the poor thing has been badly dehydrated in the current heat wave, and Paolos workmates found him on he ground slow and lethargic, so decided to catch him. In the end, nobody actually wanted to take responsibility for the squirrel - and everyone though he would have a nasty bite, so Paolo took him home. He was firstly given water by a syringe (as he was too weak to drink from a bowl) and then fed up, yesterday he escaped from his box, and I was woken up from my nap on the couch by a furry tail on my face, and scratchy claws on my back. Squirrel bounced all over the lounge while I tried to catch him/her, and is now happily in a cage that our neighbor lent us. Hopefully we can release him tomorrow, avoiding any attachment on our part. This is the second baby animal we have had in the house over summer, the first was a tiny baby bat that I found at work. He too finally grew strong enough to fly away, and its nice thinking that he is free, where he belongs.

Italy is a country rich with flora and fauna, and close encounters with wild pigs, porcupines, badgers, snakes and foxes are fairly common. Paolo managed to take three or four photos on his cell phone a couple of years ago, of an Apennine wolf that had come down towards Rufina in the winter. The same wolf killed a neighbors small flock of 8 sheep, before disappearing back into the mountains. According to a brochure in the reception at BorgoIano, wolves still roam the local woods (though the locals scoff at this), but when out riding or walking in the mountains - the question of what actually is living in the fairly wild and dense woods does play in my mind.

Recently there have been two big cat sightings in Tuscany, and neither was treated lightly. The latest was the Black Panther of Massa Marittima, and what makes this sighting even more credible - is the fact that is was spotted, and photographed by State forest patrollers.

This is one of a bunch of snaps taken of the big cat a few days ago - lounging under a tree in a field. He then got up, stretched, and wandered back into the forest - all the while completely aware he was being watched. Cages have been set up, and locals have been advised not to ride horses, go for walks, or ride bikes in forested areas. The local commune is sure they are dealing with an escaped pet or circus animal, but nobody has reported any missing animal matching the 'Black Panther' description.

A similar cat was seen in Palermo (Sicily) last year, and also photographed by state forest staff. There were 10 local sightings, and the area was put on high alert - but the cat vanished.

The local rumors were, that the Panther had returned to his owner (a well known mafioso) who also had chimpanzee's and other animals at his villa. The rumors have it, that the cat was then shot to avoid any attention coming back to him... though perhaps it was simply moved to Grossetto!

Two years ago the sighting was closer to home for me, as it was in Rufina - and this time it was a tiger!

No pictures this time, though three sightings (including a tourist) and the threat was taken seriously by Carabinieri, with a full scaled search launched over three weeks. A farmer claimed that he also lost three goats, and up in Colognole (where our old house was) four deer legs were found left on the side of the road. The locals were terrified, as the original sighting was only a few kilometers from Colognole (and keep in mind, we are talking only 20 km from Florence).

The police claim the deer were left by someone as a prank (which did make me snigger, as I know quite a few people up there capable of pulling off a prank like that).

Eventually the Tiger story died out, though considering Rufina borders onto 36,000 hectares of nature reserve... a Tiger could easily have simply disappeared into the hills.

While I looked for info on the current big cat situation, I found loads of English big cat sites, which made for interesting (if not a little obsessive and weird ) reading, with cameras set up, and photos of sheep mauled etc. I remember a senior vet that came and rode with us three years ago, who told a similar tale - that the UK had far more large cats living wild, than anyone could imagine. If the UK has these sort of numbers - then in a country like Italy where the Lynx has been reintroduced illegally, and laws on exotic pet keeping can be easily broken (by the mafia etc), it is no surprise that there are more and more sightings occurring every year. Who knows what animals are hiding in the Selva di Camporena - a forest that borders onto to miles of wild forest toward San Gimignano and Siena. I shall keep my camera handy, if the Grosetto panther decides to move inland.