Knitting instructions

Rectangular Toe for Toe Up Socks

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Mon, 05 May 2008 18:58:00 +0000

I'd heard of using a rectangle to begin a toe up sock but had never seen a pattern, so I came up with my own method. It uses a set of 4 dpns, but could easily be adapted to 5 dpn's if needed.
Knit a rectangle 8 sts wide and 6 rows long (stocking stitch)

1. With ndl 1 k8 (along the 'working' edge of the rectangle),
2. with ndl 2 pickup 4 sts along side of rectangle (ends of the six rows) and 4 more sts from other end (halfway across the cast on edge), on 3rd ndl pick up 4 sts from other end (other half of the cast on edge) and 4 more sts from other side (other end of the 6 rows) - you'll have 8 + 8 + 8 = 24 stitches in total
3. Knit one round even
4Move first 2 sts from ndl 2 and last 2 sts from ndl 3 to your first ndl. You'll have 12 on first ndl and 6 on each of the other ndls (with the picked up sts)
5. On ndl 1 k1 m1 k10 m1 k1, on ndl 2 k1 m1 k5, on ndl 3 k5 m1 k1
6. Work one round even
7. On ndl 1 k1 m1 k12 m1 k1, on ndl 2 k1 m1 k6, on ndl 3 k6 m1 k1
8. Work one round even
9. Continue increasing in this manner til you have the number of sts you need for the foot of the sock

You could change the frequency of the increase rounds, the number of sts picked up, and / or the size of the rectangle if you like.

Step By Step: Learn To Knit

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Mon, 05 May 2008 18:45:00 +0000

From Barbara Breiter,

Getting Started

Before you begin, you'll need to go shopping. All you'll need is yarn and knitting needles. Visit a yarn shop, where there will be experts on staff to help you in your selection.

Yarn is available in many fibers and weights (from very thin to very thick). Select a worsted weight yarn (a medium weight) spun from wool. Wool is the most elastic fiber and very forgiving. You'll find it much easier to knit with than a fancy yarn with a lot of loops and eyelashes, which make it difficult to see what you're doing.

Needles are made from a variety of materials. What you select is a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong. Aluminum needles are heavy and slippery; some yarns "stick" on needles and you might find aluminum needles easier to knit with for these type of yarns. Bamboo needles are light and warm to the touch. Bamboo tends to grip the yarn so you'll be less likely to have problems with your stitches falling off the needles. They come in a variety of sizes that are used with various thicknesses of yarns. Select a size 8 US (5 MM, 6 UK) needle for practice.

Pick a time when you can be alone and concentrate. A chair with no arms (or very low arms) and a good light are essential.

Like many things in life, it takes practice. It will feel awkward at first, as if you were all thumbs. This is normal and something we all experience. Soon, it will become second nature and you won't need to think about each maneuver.

Holding The Yarn And Needles

There is no right or wrong way to hold the needles or the yarn as it flows from the ball. Find the way that is most comfortable for you. Remember it will feel awkward in the beginning, regardless of how you hold the yarn and needles.

We are going to learn what is called Continental Knitting, where the yarn is held in the left hand. You can use either the outside or the inside end of the ball of yarn. Using the inside end is generally best as this keeps the yarn from rolling around and getting away from you; if you use the outside end, contain it in a plastic bag, box, or other means. You can wrap the end of the yarn around your index finger or loop it around your fingers; this is what controls the yarn. Again, there is no right or wrong way.

You will hold one needle in your left hand. You begin by casting on (next step) stitches on to this needle. Later, when you knit or purl, you will work into the stitches on the left needle, transferring them to the right needle as you complete each stitch. When you knit all of the stitches on the left needle, the left needle will be empty and the right needle will be full. Transfer the right needle to your left hand and the empty needle to your right hand. You will be ready to begin the next row.

Knitting instructions

Learning To Knit

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Mon, 31 Mar 2008 14:32:00 +0000

So you've decided you'd like to learn to knit? Those of us who enjoy the art of knitting find it soothing and relaxing to the body and spirit. But learning how to knit takes some effort. How should one go about it?

There are several methods to choose from. I learned by taking books out from the library and following the illustrations. It felt awkward at first, but soon I was knitting and purling without even looking. You might also choose to take lessons from someone; seek out your local yarn shop. If they don't offer classes, they can point you in the direction of someone who does. There are also a wide selection of videos available to help you on your journey as well as lessons on the net.

There are two different methods of making stitches: Continental and American. Which method you choose doesn't matter; the stitches are exactly the same. Experiment and find which you are most comfortable with.

I would suggest using wool for your lessons and medium sized needles--about a size 7 works well. Wool is forgiving and "bounces back", making it easier for you to get an even tension. Larger or smaller needles can be especially awkward to beginners to work with.

Sit in a comfortable chair, one in which the arms are not too high so as to interfere with the needles as you work. Have good lighting available. Most of all RELAX--tensing up with only take away from the experience and knitting will become a chore instead of a soothing way to spend some time.

Knitting instructions

Knitting Increases

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Thu, 27 Mar 2008 05:17:00 +0000

Make One (M1)

There are several versions of this method, each resulting in a different look. However, they are all referred to as Make One. This is the standard version of what is commonly called Make One.

Insert right needle from front to back into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below.

Place it on the left needle.

Knit into the back of this extra stitch.

This method creates a small hole.

If you knit into the front of the extra stitch instead of the back, a hole will not be made. This increase slants to the right.

There is also a third way to M1. Insert right needle from back to front into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below, thus twisting the stitch. Place it on the left needle and knit into the front of the extra stitch. This increase also does not produce a hole and slants to the left.

Knit Into The Stitch Below

This increase is almost invisible.

Insert right needle into the stitch below the next stitch on the left hand needle.

Knit or purl this stitch as called for in the pattern.

Be sure to knit or purl into the stitch below, not into the horizontal bar between the two stitches.

Do not use this increase more than once every four rows. Your work will not lie flat.

Knit Into The Front And Back Of Same Stitch

This is sometimes also called a bar increase, as it results in a little horizontal bar on the fabric.

Knit the next stitch as you normally would but do not remove it from the left needle.

Insert the right needle into the back of the same stitch on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through; in other words, knit into the back of this same stitch.

Remove the stitch from the left needle.

You can also purl into the front and back of the same stitch if appropriate to the pattern. Sometimes instructions will call for you to knit into the front and purl into the back of the same stitch. The principle is the same.

YO (yarn over)

YO (yarn over) is an increase that results in a little hole or eyelet being formed.

Bring yarn over (away from you) and then under the right hand needle so that it is looped around the needle. Purl or knit the next stitch as called for in the pattern, bring the yarn that it is looped around the needle through the stitch.

YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round needle), YON (yarn over needle) or YFON (yarn forward and over needle) all basically mean YO. Sometimes these different names are used to differentiate between YOs that occur between two knit stitches or between a knit and a purl stitch.

It is easy to drop this extra stitch on the next row; be sure to knit or purl it as required by the pattern.

Barbara Breiter

Knitting with cotton

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Wed, 26 Mar 2008 04:56:00 +0000

If you've only knit with wool, the first time you pick up a skein of cotton and start to knit you may feel like you've begun to learn a new art form. Indeed you have, for knitting with cotton is a unique experience.

Cotton doesn't have near the resiliency that wool does; that is, there is no stretch or "give" to the fiber. You may feel like you're struggling with keeping an even tension. That's because the fiber is unforgiving, and a stitch made loosely stays that way. Against all contrary advice from knitting books, I find myself tugging after each stitch in order to tighten it up. I've come to firmly believe in this method and think that the experts who advised to never pull or tug on the yarn must have been knitting with wool.

Having knit probably 100 cotton sweaters, I don't care how tightly you knit the ribbing...after a few wearings, it will start to stretch out. I've tried about every ribbing in the book, and it always stretches. If it's a long, tunic style sweater I've never minded that. However, a sweater that comes to the hips just looks poorly made if the ribbing doesn't stay tight. Elastic thread has been a life saver for these stretched out sweaters and it comes in a rainbow of colors to match about any yarn. Any method where you weave it in and out of the ribbing for about three rows works fine. Beware of pulling too tight on the elastic though or you'll end up with ribbing half the size of the sweater; a slight tug is all that's needed to pull in the ribbing.

Cotton also takes dye very well which is great for bright, vibrant colors. However, it also bleeds profusely. Beware of mixing colors within a sweater. White, cream or yellow will easily pick up the black, blue or green upon washing. Try to stick with colors that are of the same hue and you'll be fine.

Barbara Breiter

Knitting instructions for all

Knitting With Acrylic

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 04:45:00 +0000

I admit it: I'm a yarn snob. I make no bones about it; I don't like acrylic yarn and I never will. For all of you acrylic lovers out there, please remember this is only my opinion and flaming isn't nice.

Acrylic is cheap and it looks it. I don't care how many "wonder fiber" brands are out there. It doesn't look like wool, it doesn't look like cotton, it doesn't look like mohair. It just looks cheap. Of course, the inexpensive price is one of this fiber's positives.

It doesn't breathe. It won't keep you warm, it won't keep you cool. It won't absorb your sweat or water if you get caught in the rain. No advantages here.

It pills...you know, those fuzzy little fur balls that appear all over. I'm sure someone will tell me that "xyz" brand has never pilled and maybe that's true. Every experience I've had tells me otherwise. If it doesn't pill, that's not an advantage to the fiber; for a yarn to NOT pill is expected. At least that's my expectation.

Acrylic is not elastic. It doesn't give when you knit with it. Ok, so cotton and silk aren't elastic either. But at least the advantages of those fibers outweigh the disadvantage of no elasticity.

Just like I admitted to being a yarn snob, I'll also admit that acrylic has a big advantage. It's very "wash and wear." Throw it in the washer, throw it in the dryer. This makes it an ideal yarn for baby things and afghans. No person in their right mind would want a dry clean only baby sweater.

by Barbara Breiter

Knitting instructions

Knitting Questions

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Tue, 18 Mar 2008 09:04:00 +0000

Should I use circular needles instead of straight needles? Actually, it's a personal preference. Sue prefers the circular needles for several reasons: they're more versatile, you can use them to knit both in the round or back and forth like a straight needle, and they're more comfortable to use. They also have less of a tendency to tire out your shoulders as your fabric grows.

What does "double knitting" mean? Double Knitting is actually a weight of yarn like worsted, fingering or sport. It knits at a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch. It doesn't mean that you're required to knit with two strands doubled together at the same time.

If I use circular needles do I have to knit in round? Absolutely not. Knit back and forth by switching needles from one hand to another after each row just as you would use a straight needle.

Is it okay to add a new ball of yarn in the middle of a row? It's best not to make a practice of this, because there's always a possibility that your knot will come undone, or the knot will want to come to the front of the garment. Also, the way Murphy's Law works, that knot will be right on the tip of your breast! Just don't do it.

Should I decrease and increase at the beginning and end of the row? Try not to make a practice of this, either. Always try to knit the first stitch and then be sure you decrease or increase before the last stitch on the row.

What is gauge? Only the most important thing there is to know about knitting! Gauge is the measurement of the stitches required for a particular pattern.

For instance:

Each pattern will require that you knit a certain number of stitches with a particular yarn on a specified needle. It's not necessary to always use the yarn or the needles the pattern calls for, but it is required that you get the correct number of stitches per inch for your pattern to be the right size/length/etc.

Knitting instructions for all

Knit For Less Money

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Thu, 06 Mar 2008 22:42:00 +0000

As we all know, we don't knit to create a sweater cheaper than we can buy one; knitting one sweater can cost a small fortune! Many thanks to all the readers who have sent in these wonderful ideas on how to knit more for less money.

Let me know if you have any cheap knitting tips and I'll list them in a future article.

Kory L. Stamper

My grandmother used to tell me the best way to get yarn was to shop at thrift stores for nice sweaters and unravel them -- some of my finer yarns were procured this way!

Another hold over from our Scandinavian knitting traditions was the knit swap: Once a year, the women of a town who knit would get together, bring coffee, pastries, and one unfinished article with the yarn to finish it wrapped in a box or bag. After talking and eating, you you go through what New Englanders call a "yankee swap": each person draws a number, and the person with number one gets to pick the first box of goodies from the "gift table". Each subsequent person in line would get to pick a box of yarn and goodies from the gift table and either keep it or swap with the other people who have already picked a prize. It's great fun and, although you can get some hideous stuff (I've got Day-Glo green and orange yarn for socks still sitting in my knitting bag from three years ago!), you can also add to your stash. I picked up some great alpaca mitten yarn this past year at the swap, and I never feel guilty then about leaving an unfinished project around the house!

Molly Bettridge

For patterns check the book section of used book stores, thrift stores and rummage sales. Also check the withdrawn books at the library. And of course look for the patterns on the knitting.about.com site! Tons of great patterns of all types.

Check eBay for needles. I've bought and sold needles there at very reasonable prices. Some pattern books are also a good deal. Look under "Everything Else: Crafts: Knitting: General" and go to the "Ending Today" auctions. There you can get a pretty good idea of what something will sell for and can bid on otherwise unbid items.

For yarn, I've had good luck at charity resale stores such as Goodwill and the Salvation Army. They often have bagged assortments of yarn for under $5. I use the colors that don't suit me for charity knitting. I've also found knitting pattern books and needles there at great prices. You can occasionally find wool sweaters that were hand knit in the round. These allow you to rip out the yarn in longer continuous pieces than if the sweater has been cut and sewn.

Knit in public. I was given two large trash bags full of yarn and needles by my son's swimming teacher after she saw me knitting during the lessons.

Sylvia I. Van Etten

I swap needles with friends; if a sweater calls for a special needle size that I do not have, I call on my knitting friends and usually find what I need and vice-versa.

Yard sales and estate sales are great. I have made beautiful sweaters from patterns in knitting books by changing the yarn. I think what makes a sweater expensive is the yarns. You can often substitute a totally different yarn and have a fabulous sweater for 1/4 of the cost. I buy yarn at Wal-mart, K-mart and stores which are going out of business. I also recycle yarn from sweaters if I find I do not wear them anymore.

You can get just about any pattern for free on the web. My problem with patterns found in thrift shops they are most of the time outdated in their style.

Roz Porter

Spin your own designer yarns. I'm learning how to spin just so I can make my own designer yarns. In fact, I just got the latest Knit N'Style and the kit for a jacket in that issue is $130. I have just ordered the fleece for $60 and the dyes for $10 and KNOW I can make that jacket every bit as gorgeous as the one in the magazine.

Carole Mulholland

I knit dishcloths from cotton and with the leftovers I knit what my daughter calls face scrubbers. I call them coasters. They are miniature versions of the dishcloths done on 4.5mm needles and are 25 stitches at the widest point of the the diamond. These are always welcomed by friends and relatives (non-knitters). They look forward to birthdays and Christmas when they know they will be receiving a gift bag stuffed with these cloths and leftovers instead of tissue papers. I often throw in small designer soaps found through out the year on sale.

Brenda Bonstein

I know of a yarn store nearby that bags yarn and then sells it for $5-$15. The trick is not buying too much. I try to find projects that are challenging so that they take longer and stretch out the yarn. I also take whatever anyone wants to give me.

Jan Bowman

The very first thing I ever learned to make on a knitting machine was slippers. They do not have a seam on the bottom or a left or right to them so they can be made quickly, one after the other. I keep a supply of ready to stitch slippers for traveling and quick gifts. I have also sold and/or given them to people who have new houses or new carpeting. I have also taken them to local real estate offices and sold them for model home tours and convinced several that they make good complimentary gifts to people who purchase homes through them. I make many things on my knitting machine but when I need quick cash these slippers never fail me!

Knitting instructions for all

Knitting instructions: More Tips 'N Tricks

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 16:08:00 +0000

Barbara Breiter

Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).

From reader Crisa McCarty: I keep my patterns in the three-ring page covers (plastic envelope with opening at the top with three holes punched in edge). When I'm ready to work on a pattern, it's visible and not damaged by my teacup or dog drool. When I'm done, it goes back in the binder. Best of all the $12 package of nearly 100 (approximately...I haven't bought any in awhile) comes with tabs to adhere to the edges so you can categorize: children's, women's, tips, etc. I use Post-Its on the plastic to keep track of my rows, making hash marks as I go along. No permanent marks, no confusion as the Post-It can be repositioned where I leave off.

From reader Patricia Smith: I have stopped using the straight knitting needle pairs when I knit. Instead, I use circular needles for all of my projects, even though I am not knitting in the round. The reason I have done this is because I always hated crawling around on the floor trying to retrieve my knitting needle if I have dropped it while turning my work around after finishing a row. Can you imagine how embarrassing it is while flying on an airplane and you keep dropping your needle? Not to mention the other people in your row get really ticked off after about the third time you say, "Excuse me, I must get up and get my needle again, so sorry." ;-) Plus, when working on an extremely large project, using the longest circular needle is easier to keep your work on than the longest straight needle.
From a reader I've inadvertently lost the name of (sorry!): Put mohair in the freezer prior to unraveling a sweater or rows to correct an error; this prevents it from "hooking" on itself.
Make a note of the row number where you begin binding off for armholes. The other half of the sweater will then match exactly.
When knitting Aran sweaters, use stitch markers to keep the various patterns separated and thus, easier to follow.
Keep track of the yardage used to complete sweaters of various gauges. Keep this information in your purse and you'll be prepared the next time you go to your favorite yarn store...you'll know about how many skeins you need.
If only a few balls of yarn are available at a super sale, buy them anyway. You can always use them for stripes or an intarsia pattern.
Use selvedge stitches so that patterns match up when pieces are sewn together. You'll get a much more professional look if the seams match.
Don't pull too tight when sewing together pieces using the mattress stitch. If you do, the seam won't have an elasticity and will pucker.
If designing your own Aran sweaters, try to use patterns with the same number of row repeats. This makes it much easier to keep track of the patterns as you knit.

Knitting tips 'n tricks #1

Knitting instructions for new knitters

Knitting instructions: Tips 'N Tricks

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 15:59:00 +0000

Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).

A very small tackle box makes a great container for holding knitting gadgets. They come with many compartments and open on two sides. Find them at your local K-Mart, Target or other store for under $10.
Have a simple project going, such as a sweater with a fancy yarn in stockinette stitch, for traveling. No pattern repeats to worry about...just knit away.
Copy and enlarge any project pattern or stitch pattern you are using. Makes it a lot easier to see and follow. This is especially true of charts.
A lovely wicker hamper sits next to my knitting chair and holds needles, my tackle box of gadgets, yarn for the current project.
The hamper doubles as a table on which I prop my directions/stitch patterns. I use a magnetized board on a stand that allows you to see the directions much easier than if they were lying flat.
Make note of which row in the pattern you began binding off stitches for the armhole. Then when you knit the other side, you'll be sure to bind off on the exact same row...not just at about 14".
Pry the plastic bottom off of a liter soda bottle. It's tough but keep at it. It makes a great yarn holder to use as you're knitting, keeping the yarn clean and tangle free.

Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions

Caring For Knits

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:01:00 +0000

Barbara Breiter

After spending untold hours laboring over knitting a sweater, you'd like it to look as good after ten washings as the day you finished it. Here's how I care for my hand knits.

Filling the basin with tepid water, I use a teaspoon or so of shampoo to wash the sweater with. I've always thought that if shampoo was made to eradicate oils and yet be mild, it was the perfect product for washing sweaters. Let the sweater soak for fifteen minutes at least. I "agitate" the sweater with my hands for a bit.

Drain the water and press the sweater against the basin to extrude some excess dirty water. Rinse with more tepid water as many times as it takes until the water is clear. I add a small amount of liquid softener as this point, particularly with cottons; without the softener, I find cotton stiffens up considerably after drying unless it's a fine Egyptian cotton.

Again press the sweater against the basin to extrude some excess water. Lay a towel out flat and place the sweater out on the towel. Roll the towel up with the sweater inside. This removes a great deal of water from the knit.

I always use a screen type sweater dryer, available from many mail order catalogues. I have never measured out the sweater, made cut outs of the sweater on butcher paper prior to washing, or any other such time consuming steps I've seen written about. Frankly, I've never had a problem with the sweater not returning to its original shape. After laying it on the screen, I just gently shape it and try to "push in" the ribbing, particularly with cottons. Cotton ribbing will eventually spread out and I've not thought of a way to avoid this; I always end up using elastic thread in a color to match the yarn and it works great.

Common sense will tell you to never hang a sweater, not even on padded hangers. To fold so that there are a minimum number of creases, I first lay the sweater flat. I then fold in the arms. Then, on the horizontal, fold the left third and the right third until they meet in the middle. Finally, fold in half vertically.

Knitting instructions

Knitting instructions: Gauge Counts

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 22:49:00 +0000

by Barbara Breiter

Ahh, the excitement of starting a new project...but wait, the dreaded gauge swatch looms before you. You're so tempted to begin by just using the recommended needle size (what difference could a teeny half stitch per inch make anyway?). But don't skip this step; you WILL be sorry.

That teeny half stitch per inch ends up making a huge difference to the overall size of a sweater. For example, suppose you are knitting a size 40 sweater with a gauge of 4st=1". If you knit the entire sweater at a gauge of 4' st=1", you will in the end have produced a sweater that measures 35'" instead of 40"! Now will you check your gauge before you begin?

Knit the swatch in the pattern stitch that you plan to use. Some patterns pull in while others are loose and lacy. If you knit the swatch in stockinette (knit one row and purl the next), chances are the gauge will not be correct. Always knit your gauge swatch over the indicated pattern stitch.

I know you want to get through this, but don't skimp on the size of the swatch either. It must be big enough to give you a realistic measure of the gauge. Some pattern stitches won't begin to pull in or out until you've knit for a few inches. Aim for at least 4" x 4".

Surround the swatch with a few rows of seed stitch (knit or purl the opposite stitch of what you see facing you on odd number rows). Begin and end each row with four seed stitches as well. This stitch lies very flat and will help you measure accurately.

Please don't worry about the needle size you end up using. That's why you are making a swatch. If you could simply use the recommended needle size that came with the pattern, you wouldn't have to make a swatch! Some people knit loosely while others pull and tug; this can even vary from hour to hour with people so don't sweat the needle size!

If you are designing your own sweater, you can choose the gauge you like best and design the sweater around the gauge you have achieved. Are you aiming for a very tight, wind proof weave or a light and airy feel? The tighter weave may feel stiffer while the more loosely knit piece may feel softer. These factors should be taken into consideration when making your choice of gauge.

Finally, bind off the swatch and let it sit for some time. The yarn has been traumatized and needs awhile to relax and settle in. Use a pliable plastic or cloth tape measure and carefully measure the stitches and rows per inch. Measure in several different places. You can also calculate how large the total swatch should be and double check the gauge that way: If 20 stitches were cast on for the pattern and the gauge is 4"=1" the swatch should measure 5" (don't measure the seed stitch pattern on each end). If it's too large, try needles a size smaller; if it's too small, try again with larger needles.

There, all finished! That wasn't so bad. Now the sweater will fit and you won't have to give it to the kid next door.

Free knitting instructions

New design on knitting instructions

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 22:40:00 +0000

I have new design on my blog.

Do you like it?

New Knitters FAQ

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 22:42:00 +0000

by Barbara Breiter

If you are among the thousands of people learning to knit, chances are you have a lot of questions. Don't despair...and please don't feel "silly" or "stupid". Tons of beginning knitters have the same exact question! Here are the answers to Frequently Asked Questions by new knitters.

What is stockinette stitch?
When you knit one row and purl the next and continue alternating between knit and purl rows, one side of the fabric is smooth and the other side "bumpy". The smooth side is stockinette. It is sometimes called stocking stitch. It means the same thing.

What is reverse stockinette stitch?
The bumpy side of stockinette.

What is garter stitch?
When you knit every row, then you have made what is called garter stitch. It takes more rows to produce an inch of fabric in garter stitch than stockinette. Garter stitch lies flat.

My project knit in stockinette rolls in. Did I do something wrong?
You did nothing wrong. This is simply the nature of the fabric produced by stockinette. If you are knitting something that will be seamed, such as a sweater, it will be fine once you have sewn the pieces together. If you are knitting a piece that will not be seamed, such as an afghan or a scarf, then you don't want it to roll but rather it should lie flat. Try putting an easy seed stitch border around it and it will lie flat.

What is meant by right side?
This does not mean right vs. left. It means the right side of the fabric; that is, the side that will show on the outside.

How do I work both sides at once?
This is generally done when you are shaping the neck on the front of a sweater. To work both sides at once, you will need to attach a second ball of yarn. Work across the required number of stitches with the ball you've been knitting with. Now the instructions will probably tell you to either bind off some stitches or place them on a holder. If you are going to bind them off, attach a second ball of yarn and then do so. Now work across the remaining stitches with the second ball of yarn. You will now have two balls attached. Work one side with one ball according to the directions, then work the other side. Using this method, you are assured of working the exact number of rows on both sides.

As an alternative, after binding off or placing the neck stitches on a holder, you can place the remaining stitches on a holder. After you have completed one side, place these stitches back on the needles and work them until they match the first side.

Do I have to work a gauge swatch? Why can't I just use the needles the pattern tells me to?
Sorry, but the answer is yes you have to work a gauge swatch...that is, if you want your project to be the correct size. Too few stitches per inch and it will be too big. Too many stitches per inch and it will be too small. The needle size indicated in the pattern is only a suggestion for a place to start. The designer obtained the gauge of the pattern with that needle size. It doesn't mean you will knit to the same gauge. You should always, always, always use whatever size needles you need to in order to obtain the gauge of the pattern.

Even half a stitch per inch will make a huge difference in the outcome so please don't ignore this part of the process. Not convinced you have to swatch first? Let's look at an example. Say you're knitting a sweater with a chest measurement of 40". The back and front will each be 20". The pattern calls for a gauge of 4 stitches to the inch which means you will be working over 80 stitches on the front and 80 on the back (20 x 4 = 80 or 80 / 4 = 20). Suppose you knit to 4.5 stitches to the inch instead. The back and front of your sweater will now only be 17.78" each (80 / 4.5 = 17.78) and not 20". Instead of your sweater measuring 40" when complete, it will only measure 35.56". Clearly, it will be much smaller than you intended. Wasted yarn, wasted time and an unhappy knitter. So swatch and measure!

Do I have to use the same dye lot?
There is a difference in dye lots and it will show. Sometimes it's subtle and sometimes it's very noticeable.

If you run out of yarn and cannot find the same dye lot, the best thing to do is to take what you have to the store and try to get the best match. Look at it in natural and artificial light if possible. Then work alternating rows with the two different dye lots to lessen the effect of knitting with a second dye lot. It's not perfect and you will still see the difference in most cases.

Which rows do I increase on if my pattern says to increase every "x" row?
The actual row numbers may vary depending on the pattern. These are simply examples to help you see the logic:
To increase every other row, increase on rows 1 and 3.
To increase every third row, increase on rows 1 and 4.
To increase every fourth row, increase on rows 1 and 5.

How do I add a new ball of yarn when I run out?
For a new knitter, it is best to add the new ball at the beginning of a row. Simply start knitting with the new ball. Weave in the ends into the seam when finishing your project.

How do I knit with two strands of yarn at the same time?
Working with two balls of yarn, hold one strand of yarn from each ball together. Just pretend it was a single strand. Knit with them both as if it was a single strand. There is no need to twist them together or do anything special. Be sure you use both strands at all times.

Can I convert a crochet pattern to a knitting pattern?
No you can't. Crocheting uses different stitches than knitting; they look different and they are not the same size or shape. Essentially, the project must be redesigned as a knitting pattern and this is not recommended for new knitters.

How do I make the pattern larger or smaller? Can't I just use larger or smaller needles?
Using larger or smaller needles will give you no control over the final size (see the information about working a gauge swatch above). It might fit, it might not. You're really just guessing using this method. To avoid disappointment, please don't do this.

It is possible to make the pattern larger or smaller; however, you will need to know quite a bit about how patterns work and garments are constructed in order to redesign the pattern at a larger or smaller size. As you learn, feel free to explore this area but as a new knitter, it's best to stick to a pattern as written.

What does it mean when a pattern says end with WS or RS?
Sometimes a pattern will be specific and say "End with WS completed, RS ready to begin". Other times, it will simply say "End with WS". This means work the wrong side row and stop there. You will begin the next part of the pattern working on the right side; that is, the right side will be facing you as you work.

What does work even mean?
Work even means to work in the pattern stitch without increasing or decreasing. Usually, the pattern will say something like "Work even for 10 inches".

See also Knitting instructions for beginers

Knitting instructions

Knitting: Binding Off

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Sun, 17 Feb 2008 00:05:00 +0000

by Barbara Breiter

Binding off is sometimes referred to as casting off. They mean the same thing.

You will need to bind off in order to remove your knitting from the needles when finished. It is also necessary to bind off stitches when knitting the armholes of sweaters and at various other times.

Knit two stitches.

Insert the left needle into the front loop of the first stitch you knit on the right needle, from left to right.

Pull the stitch over the second stitch on the right needle and off. One stitch is bound off.

Knit one stitch (you'll now have two stitches on the right needle), pull the first stitch over the second stitch and off the right needle. Continue until you have bound off the required number of stitches.

Sometimes a pattern will tell you to "BO in pattern". This means to knit or purl each stitch as called for in the pattern that you are binding off, instead of knitting all of them.

Knitting instructions for all

KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS ON DESIGNING

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Sat, 02 Feb 2008 23:29:00 +0000

KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS ON DESIGNING LARGE SIZE KNITS FOR MEN

Knitting instructions

Thank you to everyone who replied via the list and who sent me
personal mail. Since I get the list in Digest and was absolutely
inundated by excellent advice, It's much easier post my reply here
rather than write back to everyone individually. Please do not be
offended by my broadcast of my thanks at the expense of personal
replies.

Your suggestions and knitting instructions were all very valuable. I recap the major points of
feedback, in case others are interested:

1. An Aran in a very large size will be an very heavy yarn-intense
finished garment, and will be extremely warm. It will also cost a
fortune in yarn.

This is exactly what I want. The recipient is looking for an dense
and warm sweater to wear outdoors/indoors through Boston winters, and
in an imperfectly heated Victorian house undergoing continual
restoration.

The cost IS something I'm worrying about. Maybe I will be able to
find a source of suitable real wool when the yarn shops have their
summer sales.

2. Because of the weight of the finished garment and the unflattering
lines on most larger body shapes, raglan sleeves are not advised.

Good point. The weight of the yarn itself would probably distend
the shoulders - especially in raglan shaping. I'm thinking of using a
modified saddle shoulder - perhaps reinforcing with a stable lining
the uppermost tab section of the sleeves where they join the front and
back to make the upper surface of the shoulders.

3. Whatever ease you usually calculate, double it because of the
weight of the yarn and the density of the textured patterns used.
Also, many "short in front" problems are caused by insufficient width,
and are only exacerbated by insufficient length.

More excellent points. I will make sure the width is sufficient.
My spy (Mrs. Recipient) is sending me a dress shirt she made for the
target that fits him smoothly without straining. I'll scale my
measurements up from that.

4. Use the make-a-muslin method described in the Threads magazine
article on large size knitting for women. Don't make this a surprise
gift.

Good advice for obvious reasons. I think the dress shirt solution
will take care of this problem. Because I made an Aran for Mrs.
Recipient that our target has commented on longingly many, many times,
I know that the gift will be appreciated.

5. You don't have to make the front and back identical, many
traditional Arans feature different patterns on the two sides.

A wonderful idea! I am one of those knitters who hates doing
anything twice. If I'm knitting flat I work the two fronts of a
cardigan, or two sleeves at the same time because I detest doing the
second. I'll keep the same proportions and numbers of pattern panels
front and back, but I'll use different cables and whatnot on each
side. I may even do this for the sleeves, but I will use the same
featured center panel on both sleeves so they don't look mismatched.
The rectangular pieces used in saddle shaping should make this easier.

6. The depth of the armscye (armhole from shoulder point to underarm
seam) should definately be deeper than just scaling up proportionally
will allow. You should taper the sleeves to eliminate bulk from elbow
to wrist, but the upper arm set in must be deep enough to keep the
sweater from pulling across the chest.

Will do.

7. Books/Articles that will help

"Designing Knitwear" by Deborah Newton, a Threads book (has the
Threads article in it)

"The Knitter's Guide to Sweater Design" by Carmen Michelson and
Mary-Ann Davis, published by Interweave Press

...article in Knitters, probably by Medrith Glover

...Beth Brown-Reinsel's Knitting ganseys book

M. Righetti's "Knitting in Plain English". <-- highly recommended

Again, thanks to all. I get a lot of enjoyment from being a member of
the vicarious knitting family here. I don't know if everyone realizes
the depth of experience and expertise jointly possessed in this
family, but it is impressive - and best of all, happily shared for
love of the craft.

Kim Brody Salazar kim.salazar@em.doe.gov
Seabrook, MD
Knitting instructions

Gift baskets for all occasions

Knitting instructions: COLOUR COMBINATIONS

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:00:00 +0000

By Sally Melville

Knitting instructions

I have been sitting on my hands through all this talk about colour (for no particular good reason). Bnd when I found myself awake at 5:30 thinking about replies, I knew it was time to DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT!

So, I apologize in advance for the length of this, but here goes.

COLOUR COMBINATIONS

I agree with the possible gender connections being made and with the idea that if you like and wear some colours well you are more likely to work with them well. (I work with and write about colour so consider myself pretty competent. But I'm a hard-core "autumn" and cannot get around my aversion to blue.)

But there's another factor at work here that takes it out of the personal and the gender.

Our eye is attracted to lighter, brighter, clearer, and warmer colours. Yellow and white are the most "attractive," in this sense. (Interesting that Kaffe Fasset is reported to have said that he doesn't like to work with either. Yellow, however, does appear in his work; white rarely does.)

So, light, bright, warm colours attract a lot of our attention, and we may, therefore, find it difficult to put them together. They are so active and demanding that they almost seem to make our eyes vibrate.

It's easier to look at and work with a collection of cooler colours; they are much less individually demanding.

COLOUR AND DEPRESSION (knitting instructions)

This part was inspiried by someone's talk about looking awful when in mourning and in black. It's personal stuff but may speak to others out there. It certainly was a revelation to me!

My husband died 2 years ago next week. Since then I have bought clothes that were only black, brown, and dark green. Anytime I put on something older and brighter, I couldn't stand to look in the mirror.

I didn't think much about it, except that something was also happening with my knitting.
I am a part-time, professional knitter/designer. But I found myself having difficulties filling commissions for knitted work. My knitting output for 18 months was a measly 6 garments!!

(As compared to my usual 2/month.) AND half of those 6 garments were from patterns! (I write patterns and didn't knitted from one for about 16 years.)

One of the commissions was a personalized mohair coat for an artist. Took forever, with lots of ripping. I talked to her in the midst of it and said that I just couldn't trust my ability to see colour anymore.

She informed me that, yes, this happens when we are sad. Not only does our creativity shut down, but we have difficulty seeing colours. She told me about a painter/mother whose daughter was brutally murdered and who now couldn't paint because all she saw was black, white, and gray.

I wasn't this bad: I was seeing colours, but bright ones were offensive, or I would put too many bright ones together and know it wasn't working but couldn't see why.

(The good news is that she helped with the colours for the coat. It's done, and she's thrilled! She wears it all over the world to openings of her work!)

DESIGNING FOR VK

In the midst of all this (last summer) I designed a piece for this spring's VK. It's a veggie cardigan thing. I DESIGNED it (not surprisingly) in a navy/indigo and medium brown background with medium colours for the veggies. They changed the colours to brights on a background of red and white! I could hardly look at it all the time I was making it and would NEVER be able to wear it.

Maybe this can give some of you a giggle when you see the next issue!

The good news is that I am now seeing colour fine and working prolifically!

Knitting instructions

Knitting Instructions

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 14:56:00 +0000

By: Feilong Hua

If you are a beginning knitter or an experienced one, there are more resources available to you than ever before in its history. You will be able to interact with other people who share your interests. It's a wonderful way to exchange patterns and information, as well as learning where to find that obscure wool you've been seeking.

For the beginner knitter it is important that they start out with a simple knitting pattern that is going to be easy enough for them to start to learn the basic knitting stitches which are the backbone of most other knitting stitches. There are many books that can be purchased both on the Internet, at a local bookstore, or a knitting store that will give the beginner a good place to start and useful knitting instructions. Once the beginner knitter gains confidence with the basic knit and pearl stitches they will want to move on to a more complex pattern, increasing the complexity of their projects with every item that they complete.

The experienced knitter's challenge is to find the right patterns and the right wool to go with it. The Internet offers patterns for the experienced knitter, as well as your local knitting store. In fact, knitting stores may the best place for most knitters to find patterns. The right wool is just as important so that the look and feel of the finished product is perfect -- not too loose or too tight.

The level of complexity and variety of patterns increases with experience levels. Select the right wool and knitting needles for the pattern, and check that the instructions are easy to read. The Internet offers a variety of different kinds of wool. The endless selection is half the fun -- planning a new knitting project with the right wool in the right color according to knitting instructions. An experienced knitter may want to find knitting patterns with intarsia -- knitting in different colors blocks, each with their own bobbin of color. Intarsia is a creative and challenging way to create knitted garments that are multicolored.

A variety of knitting needles and other knitting tools are necessary for experienced knitter, as well as other knitting tools such as bobbins, stitch holders, and stitch markers.

The more projects the beginning knitter takes on the more needles and scrap yarn they will add to their assortments. Scrap yarn is great for knitting scarves when the mood suits and time allows. No matter what your level of expertise, you will find tons of information both on and offline. You will easily stay busy for many years.

Knitting instructions

How To Master Knitting Instructions The Easy Way

noreply@blogger.com (Alice-love-knitting) — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:48:00 +0000

By Louise Nova

I wanted to set out some basic knitting instructions as a refresher so here it is. All knitting instructions use basically two stitches, the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Once you know these two knitting essentials you will be able to follow most knitting instructions which are just combinations or variations of these two stitches.

Knitting Instructions for the Knit Stitch

Once you have cast on, hold the knitting needle with the cast on stitches in your left hand. Push the point of the right knitting needle in between the front of the first and second stitches, pointing the knitting needle to the right to feed the point through the first stitch keeping it under the left needle. The knitting yarn should be at the back of the work. Loop the knitting yarn around the right knitting needle from back to front, letting the knitting yarn rest between the needles. Catch the knitting yarn on the end on the right knitting needle and pull it through the first stitch to the front of the work. Slip the old stitch off the left needle. The new stitch is now on the right needle. Now you are getting the hang of the knitting instructions. It is a good idea to keep the knitting yarn draped over the right forefinger, this keeps it to the back of the work too. Repeat this process until all stitches are on the right knitting needle. Now count the stitches, if they are all there, turn the right knitting needle around and put it in the left hand. This is the first row from your knitting instructions. The knitting yarn will look like it is at the front and you will now take it to the back and start the second row of transferring stitches to the empty right needle.

Knitting Instructions for the Purl Stitch

The Purl stitch will also be in any knitting instructions. Start with the knitting needle with the cast on stitches in your left hand. Your knitting yarn will be hanging in front. Push point of right knitting needle into the front of the first stitch from right to left. Wrap the knitting yarn around the tip of the right knitting needle, crossing over the two needles and hanging once again in front. Slide the right knitting needle down and back taking the new loop of knitting yarn from front to back, through the old stitch. Slip the old stitch off the left knitting needle. If you have followed the knitting instructions you now have a stitch in purl on the right knitting needle and the yarn is hanging, once again, in the front. Repeat this process until all stitches are on the right knitting needle. Now count the stitches to make sure you haven't dropped any and turn the work around putting the knitting needle with the stitches on in your left hand to start the next row.

I hope you could follow my basic knitting instructions. I have a lot more information about knitting on my Knitting Instructions blog so please join me there to learn more.