A travel blog of an Indian Backpacker

The spotted owlet that wishes me good morning

2012-01-21T23:57:00.000+05:30

I have been lazy most of last year, but this year, I have been pushing myself to wake up and head out for walks in the morning. And the motivation is a spotted owlet that greets me with a scowl whenever I chance upon it on my early walks. The owlet and I are half asleep but we spend a few moments gazing at each other, it looks down at me and makes a face and I grin at it.

On my birthday however, I took a few photographs of the bird and I found out there were two of them , probably nesting in that little hollow of theirs. Only one posed for me, that too rather reluctantly, while the other flew away.

I decided not to disturb them again by taking pictures, but we still greet each other every morning .

I saw it today as well on my morning walk and it did come out and sun itself on the branch for a while before disappearing into its home

My first trip in 2012

2012-01-03T14:27:00.000+05:30

In a couple of days I will be on the train again. This time , to my native state, city and village. The first and statutory port of halt will be to Chennai aka Madras and then am off on a heritage trail called the Naanjil Naadu tour, to some of the temples and towns in down South in Tamil Nadu bordering Kerala. thereafter I am heading to Thirunelveli and to my dad's village, Kalladaikurichi . It has been more than 20 years since I went to my village and am hoping to make the most of it. The area is rich in eco and wildlife tourism, heritage and culture and am not sure how much time I will have to explore around. However, I am sure to make more trips down South this year.

Journeys 2012 - Less is more

2012-01-02T16:36:00.001+05:30

Exactly a year ago, I had written this post on Travel Plans for 2011. Knowing very well that travel + planning isnt really my forte I safely put forth a vague idea of where I would like to be in 2011.I have no intentions of analysing the post, but I would guess 2012 would be fairly similar. I am cutting down random trips and would like to focus more on people and their stories. Culture and heritage will continue to be my focus and the trips are also likely to be short and simple rather than elaborate itineraries.

1.Destinations International .I would like to go somewhere in Asia or Australia this year. Or even Europe and Middle East...let me see where the roads take me . One trip is planned already in January and I will update you on this in a couple of weeks.

2. Cultural and touristy festivals ..I have often stayed away from these as I am not really a crowd person, but I would like to visit them just for the festivity this time

3. Cities and metros - This is something new - I have always shunned big cities , but I am craving to go to Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata, especially the latter.

4. My roots - This was planned last year, but I am finally going this year. And hopefully I will make a couple of more trips to my village

5. Destinations India - I had travelled extensively in the South last year, but this year, I would like to head west and north. I would like to go to Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and North East this year.

And then of course, I am waiting for those weekend getaways and day trips which I thoroughly cherish ..So join me on my travels and follow me on Facebook as I update on the move.

Happy New Year folks- What kind of a traveller are you ?

2012-01-01T09:26:00.001+05:30

To all travelers, tourists, backpackers and arm chair travellers - here is wishing you all a very Happy New Year.

I wish you all great travels in 2012. Hope you discover new roads and several detours .

I start this new year with a story that was published in The Hindu a couple of days ago..Here is the longer version of the story.

What Kind of a Traveller are you ?

At the start of a new year, here is a thought for you from Mark Twain. “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

This quote has always been my constant companion, egging me in my journeys to seek new experiences, as I wander away aimlessly. For most of us, the word travel conjures up many kind of images – blue skies, serpentine roads, an endless array of milestones, an elusive horizon, the distant hum of a train, clusters of dusty villages, sun kissed ferns, a flap of a wing, stately mountains, sandy shores, the call of the wild, a lost monument. And somewhere amidst all of them are people waiting to tell you their stories.

Travelers like us don many roles. Sometimes we are heritage enthusiasts, at other times we seek adventure. We lose ourselves in the wilds or prefer to be lone trekkers trudging up the hills. We lap up the cultures of strangers in a distant land or party away elsewhere until the wee hours of the morning.

But travel very often is all about choices. While some of us prefer the Road Not Taken, others choose the weathered road. Whether you travel rudderless or with a purpose, the buzz word is alternative travel. Move out of your comfort zone, leave the regular destinations behind you, chart your own rugged paths and detours and discover a different personality within you as we help you map your choices in 2012.

Birds of the same feather flock together

There is a whole community of travelers out there who are into birds and bees and butterflies. Join this breed even if you do not understand words like endemic and raptors, for these birders will take you to exotic and faraway lands in search of their feathered friends.

There is close to 1500 species of birds distributed across different habitats and states in India – be it forests, water bodies, mountains, deserts. Corbett alone for instance is home to over 600 species of birds. The Himalayas , the North East and the Western Ghats should be in your travel itinerary if you want to go birding in 2012.

Start with the sanctuaries Thattekadu in Kerala and Bharatpur near Delhi. And when you are in a wildlife park such as Kaziranga or Kabini, opt for a birding tour. Corbett and Pangot, Kutch and Ganeshkudi, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland are some of the destinations you could explore in 2012.

My favourite haunts are the lakes. I was lucky to be blinded by a flock of orange, black and white colours up in the sky as the flamingos flew overhead in Pulicat Lake. Look for the migratory birds that arrive in the lakes in winter flapping their wings. Chilka in Orissa is a recommendation. If you are however, a beginner, start by birding in your own backyard and in the water bodies and lakes around your city.

The call of the wild

All that the brochures keep crying about is tiger tourism. No doubt the tiger is a lure for many travelers heading to the forests and with the numbers dwindling; it is indeed a stroke of luck if you do see even a hide of the majestic creature in your safaris. However there is more to Indian wildlife than just the tigers. Even as you make Corbett, Bandhavgarh, Sundarbans, Ranthambore and Bandipur your wildlife destinations of 2012, do visit some of the bio diversity hotspots in our country.

I would recommend Valparai in the Annaimalai Hills known for several endangered species including the Nilgiri tahr and lion tailed macaque and the tropical rainforest of Agumbe in Karnataka. Gir Forest in Gujarat, Manas in Assam, Daroji in Karnataka, Periyar in Kerala, Tambdi Surla in Goa, Tal Chappar in Rajasthan are some of the wildlife sanctuaries you can visit to see elephants, leopards, rhinoceros, lions , sloth bears and black bucks – other mammals besides the tiger ! And while you are there, do learn a bit or two about wildlife conservation as you observe the overwhelming range of bio diversities around you.

Go green

The gentle rustle of a stream, a distant echo of a waterfall, the scent of a spice plantation, a carpet of colourful wild flowers, the endless expanse of the backwaters , quaint hill stations with a lost charm - eco tourism encompasses both wildlife and birding. There are several destinations that are high up in the hills or in the plains that make you a pantheist. The strawberries of Mahabaleshwar, the coffee plantations of Coorg , the carpet of tea in Nilgiris, the shola forests in Kodaikanal, the Kaas Plateau in Maharashtra, the backwaters of Kerala, the house boats in Kashmir, the orchids in Sikkim and Kalimpong – there is a hint of magic everywhere . Don’t just go green this 2012..head out and embrace the world of colours.

The culture vulture

In a small little village called Pinguli in Sindhudurg lives a puppeteer who tells stories of how his ancestors were spies during the Maratha period. The tribals of Nagaland and Ladakh tell you that dance is their way of life . The Kodavas in Coorg will explain their many rituals in the marriage ceremonies . The Chettiyars at Chettinadu will take you on an architecture tour of their mansions . Learn a bit of Kalari Payatu, the martial art in Kerala . Celebrate 2012 with the local communities in various parts of India – the weavers, the potters, the goldsmiths, the healers, the musicians, the dancers, the folk artists, the painters, the sculptors and many others who were once part of our cultural fabric . Explore their cultures and join in with their festivities . The Mysore and Madikeri Dussera in Karnataka, the Theyyam in Kerala, the Hemis festival in Ladakh, the Sonam Losar in Sikkim are some of the cultural events that you should attend in 2012.

Get festive

2012 is all about celebrations. While waiting at the Mumbai airport to board for Jordan, I met this Israeli who had lovely silver rings adorning her fingers. We got talking and she mentioned that she was just returning from Pushkar and the festival was a must see for most of her compatriots. She also mentioned the Hampi festival and Kumbha Mela in the same breath and added she would soon be visiting India again

We are in a land of festivals, where we celebrate everything – the sun, moon, stars, water, land, animals - every tourist destination has its own festival. If you like music and dance, visit Mahabalipuram,, Ajanta and Ellora and Khajuraho Dance festivals . The Rann Utsav in Kutch, the Desert Festival in Rajasthan, the sand art festival in Konark, the kite festival in Gujarat, the Nagaland Hornbill festival , the Ladakh festival – your calendar is filled with a festive air in 2012.

Heritage enthusiast

One of my best trips in 2011 was to the remains of a 3^rd century BC stupa in the district of Gulbarga in Karnataka called Sannathi. Even as the excavated sculptures are carefully pieced together by historians, they claim that they have unearthed a visual record of Emperor Ashoka . There is heritage in almost every corner in India – behind fields, inside coffee plantations, in dusty towns, high up in the hills, inside the caves . There are close to 20 World Heritage Sites in India and another 15 which have been tentatively selected for recognition that are purely historical sites .

The Hoysala Dynasty owes its origin to a small town called Angadi where the earliest temple was located inside a coffee plantation. There are over 100 Hoysala temples scattered in the rustic environments of Karnataka . The popular sites may be Great Living Chola temples, the Mahabalipuram group of monuments, the ruins of Vijaynagar in Hampi but I would recommend Orchha and Khajuraho to get a glimpse of erstwhile Bundelkhand, the monasteries of Ladakh , especially Alchi, the Buddhist trail and the ruins of Nalanda, the Ajanta and Ellora caves , Chalukya temples at Badami and Aihole among many other monuments.

Forts and palaces are scattered all over India. I would suggest the Maratha forts along the coast of Sindhudurg or the colonial forts built by the Europeans on the Coromandel Coast in Tamil Nadu.

Rustic Tourism

If yellow is your favourite color, then visit the mustard fields in Punjab or the sunflower fields in Karnataka . But rustic tourism is not just about fields and colours. It is the simplicity and the local hospitality of India’s rustic villages combined with an experience of local food, arts, heritage, sports and culture and interactions with local communities . Amost every state offers a rustic experience . Kerala lives up to her image of God’s own land in her rusticism. The small quaint hamlets high up in the mountains in Himachal and Uttaranchal have a charm of their own. Visit Banavasi in Karnataka or Bastar in Chattisgarh , Luni and Bishnoi hamlets in Rajasthan, villages in Bhuj and Kutch and hamlets down south along the Tamraparani river in Tamil Nadu. Tribal tourism in the North East, especially in Nagaland is slowly developing and it will be an enriching experience

High up in the hills

For a lot of us travelers, mountains conjure up images of the endless massive range of the Himalayas which is a destination by itself. Be it hill stations or peaks, the mountains lure you either for a relaxed tour or for a trek. Starting from Kashmir and Ladakh in the North to Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh in the North east, you need to acclimatize to heights before you start your Himalayan Odyssey. Leh, Zanskar, Tawang, Sela Pass, Pelling, Yuksom,, Kufri, Auli, Dharamshala are your picks for 2012 in the Himalayas. Ladakh, the land of high passes offers you literally breathtaking views

If I had another mountain range to pick besides the Himalayas, I would close my eyes and suggest the 1600 kms stretch of Western Ghats, one of the world’s richest bio diversity hot spots.. Towns and hill stations here are perched high up in the hills, straddling between the coasts and forests and are home to some endemic flora and fauna. Panchgani, Matheran, Kudremukh, BR Hills, Top Slip, Munnar, Kodaikanal, are some of the destinations you can explore here. My favourite in the South is however the Nilgiris . If you look beyond Ooty , there are many quaint hill stations with a colonial flavour, virgin shola forests that lure you.

Scaling new peaks

A lot of us love to see the mountains by road. While we choose the comfort of a four wheel drive, the strong and the brave hearts prefer to trek. There is nothing like carrying a backpack, looking at an open sky from your sleeping bag and living right in the open. Almost every region in The Himalayas can be straddled upon by foot – from Ladakh to Sikkim, from Himachal to Uttaranchal.

The Valley of Flowers, the Nanda Devi Trek, glacier treks in Ladakh, treks in Lahaul and Spiti valley, the Zanskar trek, Roopkund Trek and if you would like to push yourself, attempt the trek to base camp of the Everest. Monsoon treks in Western Ghats along the coastline or deep in the forests, Desert treks in Jaisalmaer are some of them you can try this year. In Karnataka scale the peaks of Kumara Parvata, the rolling hills of Kudremukh and watch the misty sunsets at Kodachadri .

A dash of adventure

If travel means a rush of adrenalin, then let go of the conventional travel routes and give in to your adventurous spirit. Besides camping, there are several expeditions that take you across glaciers and frozen lakes in mountains and hills in the Himalayas. River rafting in Rishikesh and Ladakh, scuba diving in Netrani island , a hot air balloon ride in Rajasthan, , skiing in Auli are some experiences that you must try. And if you are a mountain biker , a rock climber or you like rappelling, sky diving , bungee jumping, adventure terrains are awaiting you.

On the sea shore

Life is a beach for every tourist , traveller, backpacker, photographer . A dream destination , you can just watch the sea flow and ebb endlessly or get into high energy water sports . If beaches in Goa are known for their wild parties, the beaches in neighbouring Gokarna, Karwar and Sindhudurg are virgin and quiet. Some of them like Bekal Fort lend a touch of heritage as well. If you like a bit of wildlife, then the beaches of Orissa such as Gahirmatha and Rushikulya are nesting grounds for the endangered olive ridley turtles.Nothing like a visit to the exotic shores of the islands- Andaman and Nicobar and Lakshwadeep to rejuvenate yourselves .

Faith can move mountains.

Whether you are on a pilgrimage or you would like to fulfil a vow, then the list of temples, churches, mosques, dargahs, monasteries, gurudwaras and several other shrines are never ending. In a country where we have more deities than communities, where religious festivals are part of our cultural fabric, where many religious shrines are secular, historic and become tourist destinations, you can never create a wishlist for faith. There is mysticism everywhere . From Vaishnav Devi to Char Dham, from Tirupathi to Singeri, from Annai Velankani to Ajmer Dargah, Golden Temple in Amritsar to Dharamshala monastery, from Akshar Dham to Madurai Meenakshi temple, the list is endless. As for me, I want to visit Kolkatta during Durga Puja.

A new year dawns and the roads open to endless possibilities. If you are a vagabond like me addicted to me, then just pack your bags and follow the road. You never know where it will take you and that for me is the romance of travel. The journey is the destination.I leave you in 2011 with the words of this learned writer , Robert Louis Stevenson “For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.”

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2011 Flashback - The sun and the moon

2011-12-31T00:48:00.000+05:30

The last day in 2011 and I leave you with some of my best memories of the two homes that I often shuttle between every year. The distance between the homes however is 360 kms. I am referring to Madras aka Chennai and Bangalore.

2011 was a wonderful year from a travel perspective. I travelled extensively in the South of India - Tamil Nadu, Kerala and of course Karnataka. I had also a variety of travel destinations - birding, wildlife, heritage, people, culture, arts and crafts. I also visited Madhya Pradesh and Uttaranchal for the first time

Internationally one of my best years again - I was invited by Tourism Ireland and then by Jordan Tourism Board

Plenty of travel coming up in 2012 . Meanwhile, here is my last story in 2011 for The Hindu - What traveller type are you ? Do let me know what you guys think..

The Marina Beach in Madras was in a wild fury under the effect of the Cyclone Thane. However I did not carry my camera with me then . This is a photograph of the sea taken in the night with the full moon glowing on it . And my last photograph in 2011 is from my balcony in Bangalore, gazing at the setting sun. I took this photograph the day India won the World Cup in Cricket

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2011 Flashback - Finally Maidanhalli

2011-12-30T01:41:00.000+05:30

A destination that had eluded me for three years,Maidenhalli and the Black Buck sanctuary was finally on the agenda in 2011, although it was as usual a unplanned and a spontaneous trip

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2011 Flashback - Cuddalore Memories

2011-12-29T23:53:00.000+05:30

My heart goes out to those lives who have been affected by the cyclone Thane in Pondicherry and Cuddalore. It was barely a few months ago, when I was driving down the Coromandel coastline. Memories of the busy old Cuddalore port came back to me when I was reading about the impact of the cyclone. May the people find the strength to rebuild their lives in 2012.

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2011 Flashback - Green at Athirampally-Vazhachal Rain Forests

2011-12-28T20:34:00.000+05:30

When I went for the Rain Forest Expedition with Kalyan Varma to Valparai, I wasnt prepared for the onslaught of rains. We went into the tropical rain forests of Vazhachal and Athirampally, the green blinded me , along with the deluge . If you like my posts and photographs and would like to travel with me , join me on Facebook

2011 Flashback - Tripunithura - A cultural and royal connect in Kerala

2011-12-27T19:18:00.000+05:30

A sudden trip to Tripunithura - the palace town in Kerala where every house is a palace and every person you meet is a royal descendant . Walk by the streets and you would hear the rhythm of chenda and kathakali performances from every door.

My story on Tripunithura was published in my column Inside Story in The Hindu .

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2011 Flashback..Where Cauvery finds her destiny in Poompuhar

2011-12-26T00:59:00.000+05:30

On a hot summer day I went to Poompuhar to see the River Cauvery meet her destiny in the Bay of Bengal.The ancient port of Kaveripoompattinam lies somewhere submerged and buried on these shores. One of my favourite coastlines, sad to hear that it is being battered by the cyclone Thane

Here is my column published in The Hindu Metro Plus on this town

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2011 Flashback - Biblical Jordan

2011-12-25T13:09:00.000+05:30

A Merry Christmas to my readers.. Here is a post on Biblical Jordan.I was invited by Jordan Tourism Board and was in this fabulous country for a week. Besides the Dead Sea , Petra, Amman , Jerash and Aqaba, I was completely fascinated by Madaba , Mount Nebu and Bethany beyond the Jordan - sites that tell you from the Bible.

My story was published in The Hindu on Biblical Jordan.If you like my posts and photographs, please do join me on my Facebook page.

2011 Flashback - Time stops at Nainital

2011-12-24T00:36:00.000+05:30

A detour to Nainital from Corbett. I was there in October 2011 as a part of the bloggers trip arranged by Club Mahindra. As the editor of CLAY, the Club Mahindra Blog, I have got the opportunity to travel with the group of bloggers for the last four years.

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2011 Flashback - Weavers of Narayanpet

2011-12-23T15:10:00.000+05:30

In a little town called Narayanpet lives a group of weavers who have been weaving magic with their fingers for centuries.

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2011 Flashback - Sannathi Excavated

2011-12-22T23:40:00.000+05:30

A Buddhist stupa that dates back to 3^rd century BC with sculptures that shows portraits of kings, ancient stupas and stories from Jataka Tales is probably one of the best destinations I have ever visited in 2011. The stupa which was excavated near Gulbarga is being restored painstakingly by historians and ASI and will soon be seen in all its pristine glory as it was more than 2000 years ago. An edict belonging to Ashoka along with the portrait of this mighty emperor is found here.

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2011 Flashback - the sun rises and sets in Orchha

2011-12-21T22:13:00.000+05:30

There are several moments and monuments in Orchha that takes your breath away, but nothing is more gorgeous than waking up and seeing the sun rise over the Betwa River . It was probably one of the few sunrise shots that I had seen.

I was watching the sun set from the banks of the river and it was an amazing moment to see the cenotaphs bathed with the evening light.

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2011 Flashback - A safari in Panna

2011-12-20T19:07:00.000+05:30

One of the best landscapes I have seen is in Panna Wildlife Sanctuary. A trip sponsored by Lalit Group of Hotels and Small Luxury Hotels of the World, I was lucky to have heard the call of a leopard and spotted one as well. We were also very close on the scent of a tiger, but I was happiest to have spotted the red headed vulture.

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2011 Flashback - BR Hills

2011-12-19T18:10:00.000+05:30

One of the few trips where its just you and the world of nature . BR Hills, Karnataka

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2011 Flashback - At Pulicat

2011-12-18T16:12:00.000+05:30

In Pulicat at The Dutch Cemetery, Its tragic to hear about the tragedy that happened yesterday, but we had a great time spotting the flamingos

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2011 Flashback - A bit of Armenia in Madras

2011-12-17T19:04:00.000+05:30

It is a joke that I spend more time in Chennai aka Madras than in Bangalore. Almost every month, I spend a few days in my hometown. But this trip was special. I revisited several landmarks and went on a few heritage walks during the Madras Day celebrations.

And I finally visited the 18th century Armenian Church in Armenian Street in Parry's Corner. There was a time when Chennai was filled with Armenian merchants and even today, stories float around. But all that remains today is a lone church and a street named after the community.

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2011 Flashback - People make places @Nagavalli

2011-12-16T18:55:00.000+05:30

I was in Nagavalli ,, a village near Tumkur recently to meet BVG sir aka B V Gundappa , a high school teacher whose passion and mission is to create awareness and conserve the slender loris in the villages around his home. People do make places and read about him in my column, Inside Story.

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2011 Flashback - High on Ireland

2011-12-15T23:25:00.000+05:30

I was invited by Tourism Ireland and the theme seemed to be eat, drink and be merry. I did get high, not just on beer and whiskey, but on literature as well , Here is one of my favourite author Oscar Wilde lounging around in Dublin.

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2011 Flashback - A day at Loch Lomond

2011-12-14T23:45:00.000+05:30

Loch Lomond - what can I say ? Blue waters, green hills, white fluffy clouds - It is an ode to nature. But then it is this photograph that I would like to share today.

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2011 Flashback - London !

2011-12-13T14:03:00.000+05:30

A sudden trip to the United Kindom happened in September 2011 when I was invited by Tourism Ireland . I extended my trip by an extra week to visit London and Edinburgh

2011 Flashback - In Munnar

2011-12-12T23:41:00.000+05:30

On January 2011 , I was here

As a guest of Nature Zone in Munnar, Kerala watching the mist furl and unfurl

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2011 Flashback - Kingfishers of Goa

2011-12-11T10:04:00.000+05:30

I was birding in Goa, January last year and was lucky to have spotted many varieties of the kingfisher - white breasted, the black capped , the stork billed , the not so common kingfisher and the white collared kingfisher besides other birds.

The photography credit for both these photographs goes to the husband .

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