A travel blog of an Indian Backpacker

Flamingos in Singara Chennai

2013-05-20T15:32:00.001+05:30

I made a quick trip to Chennai aka Madras last month on the inaugural run of the double decker train between Chennai and Bangalore and here is what I found. On a dull morning, we saw several flamingos in the marshes of Pallikarnai. This is a first for me as I have not seen flamingos before in Madras.

Skywatch this Friday..a dawn in Srinagar, Kashmir

2013-05-10T17:49:00.001+05:30

Rains and thunderstorm the greeted us the afternoon we reached Srinagar, Kashmir. And this is what the morning after looked like on Nagin Lake – but there is a beauty in the mist, the gloom, the darkness and the sun fading away in the waters

To see more gorgeous skies around the world , do visit Skywatch

Avila–a fortified town in Spain

2013-05-09T10:06:00.001+05:30

It is the early afternoon. I am standing in front of a little shrine called Los Cuatro Postes or The Four Posts where four pillars encloses a cross. I climb up a short flight of steps and look out into the vast open space from the shrine. In the immediate distance lies an entire town enclosed by massive granite walls. Towering and formidable, these walls rise above the ground to touch the dark gloomy sky pregnant with droplets of rain. Tinged with a shade of brown ochre, the walls are intact and they look aesthetic as their flat surfaces are interrupted by a series of semi-circular turrets, adding a geometric pattern to them. Standing tall at 12 metres, these brown walls are punctuated with nine gates built across the length of 2.5 kms, with 88 towers that give the city its stony look.

It feels a bit mysterious to live in a town that is almost completely surrounded by these stone walls. I shiver a bit in the cold, lost in a land that seems to be out of a fairy tale, dwarfed by these imposing structures. But there is a beauty in the barrenness. As I am admiring the view, a newly married couple lock lips and pose for a wedding portrait against the backdrop of the town

Ringed in by the Sierra Gredos mountains, Avila is a Roman town perched on a rocky outcrop on the banks of the Adija River in Spain. Often referred to as the land of saints and stones with the Gothic and Romanesque churches dotting its landscape, Avila is a UNESCO World Heritage City that looks lost in a dreamy stupor of the past. The walls, built in the Middle Ages are virtually the symbol of the town, visible from almost any part of Avila

Avila however has had a war torn history prior to the construction of its impregnable walls. It was the home of the Celtic tribes known as “Vettones” around the 5^th-7^th centuries BC and was called the Obila or the High Mountain then. The Romans invaded it around the 1^st century AD and called it Abila and ruled for almost six centuries.

However it became a war zone during the Middle Ages between the 7^th – 11^th centuries with frequent wars between the Islamic Moors and the Christian kingdoms leading to Avila becoming a ghost town eventually. Avila was finally repopulated under the reign of Raymond of Burgundy in the 11^th century who ordered the construction of these walls to protect it from further attacks .Ever since they have remained as a strong formidable presence in the town, keeping all invaders at bay.

However Avila has a mystical side as well. It was home to several saints, including St Theresa of Jesus, the 16^th century patron saint of Avila who had reformed the Carmelite Order across Spain. And my guide, Blanca shares a little anecdote from her life that took place at The Four Postes. St Theresa ‘s childhood was rather dramatic. She had visions of Christ besides being tormented by The Devil. When she was barely seven , she was planning to run away with her brother and fight for her state against the Moors. It is believed that her uncle stopped her right here at the Four Posts, just as she was planning her escape . St Theresa however grew up to become a reformist and started spreading her faith, not just in Avila but across Spain as well.

The sky suddenly turns blue as dreamy clouds appear, pushing the rain away. Done with the introduction to the city, I now move on to explore the two key facets of the town – the stones and the saints that give Avila its identity.

I start with a journey up the walls. There are several routes and I begin at the Puerta Del Carmen , or the Gate of El Carmen, that takes its name from a Carmelite convent attached to the walls . I walk right atop the wall, along the entire length, only to see them stretching endlessly for miles.. The town now wears a fresh coat of paint as Avila shows me her true colours. Huddled below are several pink, white and red houses looking petite as the walls wrap them in their folds. As we look down the sloping roof while palaces and cathedrals dot the landscape, my guide , Blanca shows me some stone sculptures of bulls or boars carved on the surface of the walls that date back to a period before the Romans arrived. Standing there, I am lost in my thoughts, with the wind blowing right into my face. I imagine it during the medieval era when knights guarded their fortresses and horse hoofs trotted in the distance.

I am back on the cobbled streets that take me into palaces, monasteries, chapels and churches. I stop by at The Cathedral of Avila, built between the 11^th-12^th centuries in the Gothic style of architecture, around the same time when the city was fortified. Built with granite, it is looks like a fortress with its apse shaped like a turret as it forms a part of the city walls, probably reflecting the history of the era where battles were raged constantly.

Another monument that draws me is the Santo Thomas Royal Monastery, built in the 15^th century in a Gothic style. With three elegant cloisters, built across two storeys, the monastery holds the tomb of Prince Don Juan, the crown prince of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, who are best known for sponsoring Christopher Columbus’ voyage . While the marble crypt remains, the guide tells us that tomb is empty as his remains were desecrated during one of the wars.

Our next stop is a small shrine that Avila is proud of. The sky gets gloomy again, but in that grey atmosphere, a colourful toy train chugs along bringing in a group of tourists through one of the many city gates. The train, taking the tourists through the nine gates of Avila finally stops in front of a 17th century convent, which was once the home of St Theresa, the saint and writer who travelled from Avila to all over Spain reforming the Carmelite Order. Built after her canonisation, the convent is closed to the public, but tourists can visit the chapel located inside the Baroque church.

We walk in to see her relics and amidst the rosary and other personal effects, is a fragile finger with a ring is placed there as well. It is believed to be her finger from the right hand. But it is not just the relics. The silence in the chapel draws me like a magnet as I sit there for a while inside a reconstructed version of a cell where she prayed.
I move on to a livelier part of Avila. The city square is vibrant and is thronged with tourists. Avila’s proximity to Madrid (it takes barely a couple of hours by road) and its World Heritage status seems to draw a lot of them here. Little surprises spring on me as I wander around aimlessly. A South American, from Argentina wearing a bright colourful costume plays a guitar and entertains the locals. In the square a young choir group is in the midst of an energetic performance of hymns. Elsewhere a little bit of India is tucked away in a small souvenir shop called The Taj Mahal.

It is almost dusk and darkness descends on Avila within minutes, even as the city glows in a spectacular display of lights as the walls and the monuments are lit. I walk along the tiny cobbled lanes running into statues of saints. Bells greet me in every corner. I shiver in the cold as the stars come out into the sky. It is a surreal moment. The outlines of the walls stand out reassuringly against the dark sky, as silence wraps the ancient town in a thick blanket. Every lane leads to a little piece of history. Legends are written in small sculptures that are tucked away in the corners. And St Theresa greets me everywhere – on names of squares and streets.

My last stop at Avila is a quaint sweet shop that serves the traditional sweet made of egg yolk that goes by the name of “Yemas de Santa Theresa” . As I bite into the juicy piece of dessert, I see more sweet shops on the way and the road finally leads me back to the walls .

A version of this story was published in HT Mint.

Trekking through India's Golden Triangle

2013-04-22T22:46:00.001+05:30

Plan an Unforgettable Trek Through India’s Golden Triangle

There's nothing like the Golden Triangle. Comprised of several Indian destinations, this must-try trek is one of the best ways to experience the country's most iconic sights. Though a variety of travel agents and tour providers offer packages, it’s completely possible to plan your own tour with a little bit of know-how and a lot of adventurous spirit. Plus, if you have an AmEx credit card, you’ll get benefits for cardmembers that make the planning process even easier.

Ready to get started? Use this sample itinerary for a few travel ideas.

Delhi

Begin your trip in this cultural center for an inside look at the area’s rich history. If you want to get a feel for the local lifestyle before trekking toward the historical sites, grab a quick kathi lunch at Khan Chacha, and then browse the Khan Market for local music, home goods and accessories. Finish your first day with a cocktail at Cheri, or get into the local speakeasy scene at Cocktails & Dreams.

Wake up early the next day to get a head start on exploring Delhi’s icons. Browse through India Gate and the Rashtrapati Bhaven, and then make your way to Old Delhi to brave the 17th-century streets of Shahjahanabad. Still have some energy left? Browse the Khari Baoli spice market, and pay a visit to the Shah Jehan-designed Red Fort.

Agra

Of course, no Golden Triangle trek would be complete without a trip to Agra. You’ll want to spend most of your time exploring the magnificent Taj Mahal, but save a few hours — or an entire day — for adjacent sights like the Mehtab Bagh gardens, the Kailash and Rajeshwar temples and the bustling U.P. Handicraft & Handloom Center.

Hungry for an authentic taste of Agra? Unwind at the Kamat Hotel’s rooftop restaurant or settle in for a cocktail at the Terrace Grill. Don’t forget to bring your credit card; you might just get some benefits for cardmembers that let you earn points on these experiences.

Jaipur

If you’re short on time and can’t spend weeks exploring Ranthambhore, Udaipur and Jodhpur, the best place to end your Golden Triangle circuit is in the thriving city of Jaipur. Known as the Pink City, this historic destination is famous for its forts, temples and sandstone buildings. Spend the first few hours getting acclimated to the area by exploring the Bapu and Johari bazaars, and then pop into Rawat Misthan Bhandar for a taste of the iconic pyaz ki kachori onion dish. Have a little extra time? Stop here, and head back to the hotel to relax before your last full day of sightseeing.

Once you’re ready to take in the sights, start just north of town at the Amber Fort to get a look at this fortress-palace and some unforgettable views of the surrounding gorge. Then, come back to the city center to wander through the intricately decorated Hawa Mahal and the 17th-century Jai Singh Observatory. Finally, bid farewell to the Golden Triangle with a self-guided tour of the majestic City Palace, and then drive back to Delhi for one last overnight stay. The trip may be over, but the memories will last forever.

This is a sponsored post.

Birding Diaries–Carambolim Lake, Goa

2013-04-20T12:14:00.001+05:30

Lesser whistling ducks

It’s a very hot morning in Goa. They say spring is in the air, but I can feel the bright sun burning through the skin as early as 630 am. However, I am an early bird and that in Goa is rather unusual. As I head out, all I see in my fifteen minute journey are two pups cuddled up in the middle of the road. The vada pav stalls are not yet open and I do not see a single local tea shop on the road. Soon civilisation gives way to large tracts of fields and then the waters fill my eyes. The Mandovi gives me company as I watch a few waders on her banks while a couple of pond egrets fly rather low. Even the fishermen have given themselves a holiday and the roads are empty.
I am not headed to a beach but to a little lake lost amidst the lone tracks of a railway station in a little hamlet. Carambolim or Karamali is a pretty village tucked away in old Goa. Its claim to fame is a railway station, a 500 year old chapel and a Brahma temple located close by. But none of them lure me.
Carambolim is still snoozing when I drive past its nondescript streets. Taking in the silence and the pleasant morning breeze, we stop by for a few minutes to cross a railway track. A lone train chugs along, taking passengers to either their dream destinations or to a comfort zone called home. The train slows past me and I cross over to a single lane that takes me into a palette of colours. There are the verdant fields on one side, nodding in glee to the morning breeze and a vast man -made lake on the other bustling with active bird life.

Standing under the shade of the tree, I see the train has paused in its journey, its blue compartments reflecting in the waters of the lake. Another train seems to approach from the other end and they pause for a moment as strangers glance at each other from either train before continuing with their journeys.
A flock of lesser whistling ducks announce their presence whistling out loudly as they frolic in the waters for a while, splashing before settling down. They are huge in numbers compared to the flock of garganeys that float quietly. I look at them through the binoculars as they curl up in the waters. The purple swamp hens strike several poses as they create a stark contrast in the marshland . An open stork bill stands quietly, getting a bit of tan, while the two jacanas – the bronze winged and the pheasant tailed are rather shy, the latter especially showing off its long curved tail before disappearing into the waters. A purple heron is in flight and lands near the flock of lesser whistling ducks. Coots and grebes lose themselves in the crowd.

We head to the other bank of the lake and who should be waiting there, but a bright glossy ibis, preening itself in the sun. A darter darts past while a grey heron stands as a statue. Puddles of water stand out in the green marshland as heads of ducks pop out of them. They fly across the lake, crossing from one side to another, whistling along .
I stand there for hours, forgetting the heat and hunger, longing for more time in the company of birds. The silence stands out as the birds call out in glee. I wonder how this little idyllic world is lost on man. That’s when I realize why Goa is not just a destination – it’s a state of mind.

Skywatch this Friday – Pelicans in flight

2013-04-12T13:26:00.001+05:30

A spot billed pelican in flight at Kokkre Belur, a village near Bangalore, India where the birds have forged a relationship with the community that protects them every year. Another close up of the wings

Visit Skywatch this Friday for beautiful birds and skies.

Summer is here..

2013-04-06T16:27:00.000+05:30

The days are getting hotter in Bangalore and the promised rain clouds have slowly wandered away after showering for a few days. I cannot believe that summer is already upon us. I have two months to go before I get on to some personal work and I am wondering where to go. I am not so much a summer traveler. The hills will no longer offer me the solitude as it will be crowded with tourists and it is hot any where and every where else.I do not want to do short trips anymore. And I cannot get myself to brave the heat and wander into the forests for tiger tourism and even there, it will be crowded as well . So, I am back to surfing the net and looking for cheap flights. Recently there was a bit of a news when airlines were competing with each other to offer the lowest fares in the market. Domestic flights would hopefully get cheap this summer but where do you think I should go ?

A morning in Kutta- Coorg

2013-04-05T08:25:00.001+05:30

Kutta is a border town between Karnataka and Kerala and is a part of Coorg. I woke up to a blazing morning when the sun created drama .

To wake up to more beautiful skies around the world, visit Skywatch this Friday..

This summer, the temperatures are already soaring and I have started searching for cheap air tickets. The airlines have already increased their fares and one has to book air tickets soon. However there has a been cancellations lately and it is better to check flight status online before you plan a trip.

Shigmo Festival–Goa

2013-04-01T10:26:00.001+05:30

Over the weekend, I saw a different Goa – Cultural, mythical and colourful. It was the Shigmo Festival. It was the first time I had heard of Shigmo, a festival that originated in the villages of Goa as it celebrates the arrival of spring. Dances, floats filled the air as I was told that the pageantry moved from village to village. Each village performs during the festival, based on a certain theme .Goa Tourism is working on a promoting the cultural aspects of the state taking a cue from the others such as Karnataka Tourism .While a detailed post is coming up soon, I am leaving you with a video from the festival in Panjim. And if you are looking for booking destinations right now, visit Make My Trip India and check out the packages.

Castles of Poland –a photo feature

2013-03-23T13:14:00.001+05:30

Poland is a country steeped in medieval castles and folk lore, of royal palaces and parks where legends and pagan myths vie with war time stories. We go on a tour of castles and palaces, visiting Wawel Hill in Krakow, the ancient capital and follow it to Warsaw the current capital where we will stop by Wilanow palace. And then we end our trail in the largest castle built in the world – the Malbork Castle.

We were cruising on the Vestula when I saw the beautiful Wawel Castle that stands as a landmark of Krakow in Poland. Sitting pretty atop a limestone outcrop called Wawel Hill, this has seen the rise and fall of many a dynasty .The hill itself maybe over 100 million years old and has been inhabited since the Palaeolithic Age . Today it houses a mosaic of monuments including the 1000 year old cathedral and the ancient castle

Castles are not just about battles fought and won, but about fairy tales too. Here is a battle too , between a mythical dragon that lived at the foot of the hill and was eventually killed by the Prince Krakus who founded the city. However in another version of the folklore, a local hero emerged in the story in the form of Skuba, a cobbler’s apprentice. The dragon had a penchant for young virgins and the king offered his daughter’s hand in marriage to the person who killed the dragon. Skuba stuffed a lamb with sulphur and left it as a bait below the dragon’s lair, who eventually exploded after eating it.

The medieval castle itself has been built and rebuilt several times, having survived wars and fires. It was constructed in the Gothic style in the 14^th century, while Renaissance elements were added a couple of centuries later. Rich Flemish tapestries from the 16^th century catch your eye as you walk around the many chambers inside the palace. Home to over three dynasties of the monarchs , the palace takes you on a whirlwind tour of Polish history.

The kings however were all crowned in this 1000 year old Gothic cathedral which tells a tale of its own. The first thing that you notice about the cathedral is the giant bones of a mammoth and a whale hanging at the entrance. A sign of Pagan worship or a reference to the dragon lore – one wouldn’t know for sure. And yet, in this cathedral which has every stamp of architectural style – from Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque to Classic , kings, saints and bishops lay buried in the crypts. Our guide tells us that it bears similarity to the “Murder in the Cathedral “ story as a bishop was murdered here by a king. However, he is quick to add that Pope John Paul 11 offered his first mass as a priest here.

Our next port of halt is Warsaw the capital. Walking along the Castle Square in the charming old town, you get a different glimpse of the capital city. The royal castle stands in front of the square, its brick red façade spread across the old town. Once upon a time it was the official residence of the royalty; today however it is a museum that tells the tales of destruction caused by the wars while the city has risen from the ashes like a Phoenix.

Warsaw is a city of palaces and castles with parks surrounding them . I am told that there are more than 30 of them in the city. We visit the 17^th century baroque residence of the Polish monarch – the Wilanow Palace that is nestled in lush greenery . Paintings and sculptures adorn this beautiful palace which has changed hands several times between royalty and aristocracy and has eventually been destroyed during the World War 2 before being restored again

The royal residence was initially built as a Polish aristocratic mansion in a little village and it slowly became a magnificent structure with French styled palaces and Italian garden villas. Walk around and you can see the royal apartments , but the guides tell you that the interiors were changed over a period of time and the palace is now a veritable art gallery and a museum . Busts of kings and queens and Gods and deities were showcased here. The ceilings were elaborately painted with frescos , while the portrait galleries take you to the time of the Polish royalty.

Parks and lakes drape Warsaw into a city covered by lush fabric . We walked up the Lazienki Park , which translates to Royal Baths Park , where the gardens were landscaped in the 17^th century in a typical Baroque style. A bathing pavilion lends its name to the park and palace here. Amidst the verdant greenery are beautiful palaces and castles , notably the “Palace on the Water “ or “the Palace on the Island , also referred to as the “Lazienki Palace. “ On the banks of the lake is a Roman amphitheatre and if you walk around the park, you will notice another palace called the Myslewicki Palace , a White House, Orangeries, temples to Diana and a Water Tower.

We finally end our trail as we leave Warsaw and enter the portals of the largest castle to be ever built in the world – the Malbork castle. As you see the castle standing across the Nogat , you learn that this was once a medieval fortress was built in the 14^th century by the Teutonic Knights in what was then known as Prussia. Built in bricks, the World Heritage Site takes you into a fascinating journey of the knights and their stories.

The castle takes you into a different world. As you enter the portals, you see a courtyard and enter halls and rooms with old paintings . Although the castle was rebuilt after the World War 2, much of it was recreated to show how the medieval knights lived here. You walk around and see the kitchens, the mills, the large wells and even the restrooms sitting atop a moat with cabbage leaves serving as toilet paper .

The castle the largest Gothic monument in this part of the world and was named Marienburg or Malborg after the patron Saint Mary. There are three main castles built within the fortress and were strongly defended by the knights, who also controlled the trade of amber in this region. The Church of our Lady built inside the castle is still in ruins and it takes you back to the times of the past when the castle has been in siege .

This photo feature was published in Yahoo.

World Sparrow Market–A little birdie in a flower market in Thovalai

2013-03-20T14:37:00.001+05:30

Thovalai is one of the largest flower markets located between Nagercoil and Kanyakumari. A little sparrow chirps merrily on a mound of marigolds on the ground.

On St Patrick’s Day revisiting Northern Ireland

2013-03-17T21:32:00.001+05:30

The vibrant beats drive the blues away even after the sixteen hours and more spent in flying and in transit. I finally land in Belfast and the music comes waltzing in , setting the feet in motion and lifting the spirits up. Even the smallest sign of jet lag disappears with the Irish rhythm . “She is the belle of Belfast city,” choruses the singer as I look out of the window from the coach and lose myself in the land of charms and elves.

There are legends everywhere - from little men to giants. Lores and literature are written about mountains and rivers and valleys . Andrew Beggs, our guide, ever full of humour, with a quick repartee here and there, says that the Cave hill in Belfast was an inspiration to author Jonathan Swift for his novel, Gulliver’s Travels. The peak of the hill often referred to as Napoleon’s Nose looks like a giant sleeping, an uncanny resemblance to the sleeping giant in Swift’s novel.

But then the allusion to giants and little men does not end here. The mythical Leprechauns lure you to see their pots of gold hidden beyond rainbows but I can hardly see any colours in the sky . The weather abruptly changes from warm sunshine to rain and storm. We drive through the coastal villages in County Antrim, most of them are seaside resort towns. An icy cold wind bites into you as we step down to see the rope bridge.

Referred to as the “rock in the road” the narrow “Carrick – a Rede Rope Bridge” connects the mainland to a tiny Carrick island. Precariously dangling over the sea , the view from the mainland is breath taking. But then the winds and waves ensure that we do not have a safe passage to the island and off we go, back to the coach, driving along the coast of Northern Ireland to the Giant causeway.

The winds literally knock me down as I lose balance and hold on to the rocks. “It’s the tail end of a hurricane, “says Andrew as he drops us and the coach beats a hasty retreat. Now, I am literally caught between the devil and the deep blue sea as the winds toss me away from the shores and I hang on to every piece of clothing that I have to stay warm and in one piece. But even in that grey mood, the scenery takes your breath away
The giant causeway is a result of a volcanic eruption that led to formation of interlocking basalt columns that tease your imagination. They come in many sizes and shapes. Sometimes you imagine boots, at other times, chimney stacks or even a camel’s hump as the basalt columns morph into various forms .The Irish love legends and they gave a story to this World UNESCO site as well. According to the myth, Irish warrior Finn Mc Cool built the causeway to connect to Scotland to defeat the giant Benandonner. Finn was tired and although he challenged the giant to walk across the causeway , he was not in a mood for a duel. He decided to sleep for a while, while the Scottish giant entered the house looking for him. Finn’s wife wrapped him up as a baby and the sight of a giant baby terrified Benandonner that he fled across the coast, ripping up the columns as he ran along the causeway.

The cold gales give us no respite. We stagger around, probably a bit like the giant Benandonner trying to escape its blows and watch the waves lash against the rocks, unleashing its force all around them. It’s time for a nice warm whiskey and we make our way to a quaint little village, Bushmill, named after a river and a windmill, and drive past the oldest licensed distillery in the world – Old Bushill’s Distillery, established in 1608. We head out to the Bushmill’s Inn, also believed to have been built in the same year as the distillery, although parts of it have been restored and converted into a hotel. Lunching in a historic and a quaint inn has a different charm as we hear a bit of its history and drink and eat to our heart’s content, listening to the strains of “Whiskey in the Jar “
The coach moves on as we head towards Belfast, the capital town of Northern Ireland and we are immediately spoilt for choices. The Titanic tour for instance that takes you back to the days when the town went ballistic over the ill fated ship. You hear stories of hope and despair and visit those empty offices where the ship’s fate was decided well before it set sail, with barely 20 life boats.

And then we are on the city tour, which gives you a peek into its troubled history when internal conflicts and wars ravaged the city for over three decades .Even today the murals and the high walls on the streets speak of the phase when the Catholics and Protestants communities were at loggerheads with each other .The mood turns a bit sombre as we hear stories of violence , but the Irish do not let it last long. We then admire the Edwardian architecture in the city driving past some towering monuments as we move from one quarter to another.
And before we know it, a day ends as we find ourselves quenching our thirst in the famous 19^th century Crown Bar, listening yet again to “Whiskey in the Jar “ followed by “ Belle of Belfast. “ It is true that as Shaw says, “Ireland, sir, for good or evil, is like no other place under heaven, and no man can touch its sod or breathe its air without becoming better or worse.” I believe I have become a wee bit better after my tryst with the Irish.

Skywatch Friday–The Gol Gumbaz of Bijapur

2013-03-15T11:39:00.001+05:30

The very symbol of Bijapur, the Gol Gumbaz towers over all the monuments in the town. The monument is a mausoleum built in the 17th century for the Sultan of Bijapur, Mohammad Adil Shah and it is proudly referred to as the “structural triumph of Deccan architecture.” The dome , one of the largest in the world was supposed to be like a budding rose, emerging from the petals of the flower that stood at its base and hence it was called the “rose dome”.

For more skies of the world visit Skywatch.

A little update on women's day

2013-03-08T10:09:00.002+05:30

So its women's day today. Maybe another day dedicated to tokenism , but any day is good as long as one feels special. So I thought I would use this day to do a wee bit of bragging. I have been featured in three different places this year . Last month I got a mail from Hotel Depot and they mentioned that I am in their list of Top 30 travel bloggers from India. I am honored. IXIGO.com has featured me in their list of travel writers and bloggers as a part of the Women's Day Special . A dear friend, Sudha Mathew, a travel blogger has done a short interview of me on her blog and Renuka has featured me in her blog as well. Thanks everyone. I also went for my first photo studio hfor a high profile women's magazine which is featuring me as an influencer in the travel blogger category. Details on that soon.

So, in other news, I have been writing loads of stories this year and I have completed virtually 50 stories in the last couple of months for a variety of publications. I have started editing and contributing for The Hindu Traveller, a fortnightly "traveloid" , have written a cover for Sunday Herald for which I received some appreciation on mail and am making a debut in one more publication - waiting for that to appear this month. Meanwhile, Yahoo has been publishing my series on palaces and my photo features . So, its been a good start and I hope this continues..

Here are some stories that I did last year for Women's Day - Safe Destinations in India for Women in Yahoo, Women Travellers on Sify and a feature on three women travellers in Rediff.

India through my eyes–A vendor outside Azhagar Temple, Madurai

2013-03-07T11:51:00.001+05:30

Look around any temple in India and you would find vendors selling anything from balloons to masks. This was photographed outside the Azhagar temple, dedicated to Vishnu located near Madurai.

Markets of the world– Jamuns and Jalebis of Mussoorie

2013-03-06T07:32:00.001+05:30

We were walking along the streets of Mussoorie when the food blogger amongst us, Nandita aka Saffron Trail spotted the man and his jamuns and jalebis. So off we went clicking away. This was part of the Conclay event organised by Club Mahindra at nearby Kanatal.

Fly far away, dissolve and quite forget…

2013-02-27T12:25:00.001+05:30

These words from John Keats’ Ode to a Nightingale means more to me now than it did when I was studying literature in college. As summer approaches, its time to plan my holidays yet again. I am wondering if I should go to the forests or the hills . Maybe its a good time to plan another trip to Europe. Last year, I was happy to have toured quite a few cities but I had to leave Prague out unfortunately. I would love to go back to the UK again. As for India, the Himalayas beckons.
I love trains but domestic fares have indeed come down and I am going to start booking flights early this time around . I would prefer destinations in India as fares are now as cheap as Rs 2000/- one way to certain destinations. I am for instance flying Trivandrum – Bangalore this Sunday on a similar fare .Ever since Jet lowered their prices a while ago, other airlines like Go Air, Indian Airlines have already joined in the bandwagon. But seriously, it does not matter which airlines as long as they do take off and land on time.
What do you say ? So where are you planning this summer ? Meanwhile am off to Nagercoil and Kanyakumari today. See you guys in a bit.

Travel Tuesday–Padmanabhapuram palace

2013-02-26T21:00:00.000+05:30

I am off down South India to Tirunelveli again this week for personal reasons ; so here is a post on Padmanabhapuram palace that is located near Kanyakumari. This story was published recently on Yahoo in the series on lesser known palaces of South India

On a hot sultry afternoon, we have our little tryst with history in a small wooden palace. There are no red carpets that are rolled out as we enter or bells that announce our presence. No brightly lit chandeliers greet us at the entrance. Neither do we find marble statues in a scenic garden nor magic fountains that burst out in a musical symphony. Our entry is quiet and unnoticed except for an old caretaker who barks an order at us as we fumble for money to buy the tickets.

Palaces in India can either be the ornate magnificent edifices that glow in the aftermath of their past glory or humble structures that live almost in obscurity, hoping that a few tourists will grace them with their visits. They vanish from the political maps and slowly make their way into tourist maps, only to be lost there as well and be tagged as offbeat destinations.

But there is nothing really nondescript about the Padmanabhapuram palace. The Western Ghats form a dramatic backdrop as the palace rises from the ground, spreading itself and forms a part of a granite fortress . On a bright sunny day, the peaks of the mountains peep out from behind the whitewashed walls and the thatched roofs and the clouds pose for the tourist, who is hoping to take home a little digital souvenir.

We walk through the tiny door, bending almost in reverence to the sovereigns who built this palace and made the town their capital. Home to the Travancore kings, we are at the Thai Kottaram or the Mother’s Palace , that refers to the oldest part of the monument, that was built way back in mid 16th century. It is the mother of all the buildings here, as none of the mothers really stayed here, says the guide . We are in for a whirlwind tour of history.

It was called the Kalkulam Palace and was built initially by Iravi Perumal Kurukshetra Perumal in the 16th century says the guide. I marvel at the courtyard, the traditional “nalukettu” where the sloping roofs seem to hug me as the four pillars support the structure. A small room of solitude, aptly called “Ekantha Mandapam” opens into some intricate sculptures as the guide beams , looking at a single pillar made of jackfruit wood.

The palace I hear has had a makeover two centuries later by Marthanda Varma. Varma dedicated his entire kingdom to the deity Padmanabha and named his capital and palace after the God, but the kings seemed to have left their origin once they shifted the capital to Thiruvananthapuram.

We walk through the Mantrasala, a dark but intricately designed chamber for the King’s Council and admire the traditional wooden carvings, the hanging lamp, the coloured mica on the windows and every stamp of the Kerala style of architecture. The journey into Travancore history takes us into the Natakashala or the Hall of Performance and the Upprika Maliga which leads us into the rooms of the royalty and the Theekee kottaram or the Southern Palace.

The guide is careful to lace the history with trivia. He occasionally pauses to show us an intricately designed cot which he says is made of 64 wooden pieces gathered from the trunks of the medicinal trees or to show us the toilet of the kings. I am however taken in by the Ambari Mukhappu, the structure in the form of an Ambari on an elephant, where the king would sit and view the chariot races.

After walking across several rooms displaying pots and pans, cloaks and daggers, curios and carvings, I step into the virtual art gallery where the the paintings showcase the lives and the events of the Travancore kings and murals depict scenes from the epics. The tour seems to end for a few here , while I wander around watching the sun play with the latticework, casting reflections on the dark smooth floor, which the guide had painstakingly explained was made of a special mixture of egg white and coconut shells among other materials.

The sun is sharp for a moment but the reflections fade as the clouds join the party. The play of light puts me in a reflective mood. Palaces I realize are also symbols of fading glory. Even as kingdoms vanish, new states are formed, borders blur, monuments live and die everyday in India. Some come back with a new identity and a renovated face to the tourists, while others languish in ruins and disappear with the passage of time, keeping all their stories within them. As I turn to leave, the 300 year old clock tower in the complex brings me back to the present times.

The skies have just become affordable again

2013-02-21T15:09:00.001+05:30

I have just got off the internet. I am off next week on a quick trip down South Tamil Nadu for some personal reasons and I was quite worried about my last minute bookings. But I was in for a surprise. My flight ticket to Bangalore from Trivandrum cost me almost the same I would pay for a 2AC tatkal train ticket . Yes, it was about Rs 2000/- one way.
In case you have missed the news yesterday , Jet Airways along with Jet Konnect, Jet Lite led the pack by announcing cheap air tickets and the site was down almost the entire day, behaving like IRCTC. But we did manage to pick up the tickets. More airlines am told have followed suit, so if you are planning a holiday, this is the time to fly. Even if you are not planning a holiday, this is an excuse to fly.

Celebrate Nicolaus Copernicus’ 540th birthday in Torun

2013-02-19T12:26:00.001+05:30

In a small little fairy tale town, I am reminded of a legendary fairy tale . I get a whiff of the freshly baked gingerbread and am transported into the tale of the gingerbread man who comes alive from his mould, only to be devoured by a fox. Torun in Poland is a World UNESCO site with loads of history but it is its legendary gingerbread that makes it irresistible.

We follow the scent and walk into a quaint where we join a group of excited children, waiting to get their hands dirty with chocolate and flour. I am as wide eyed as the children, when I hear that Torun’s legendary gingerbread dates back to the 13th century and India has had a role to play , for the ginger to make this “pierniki” came through the spice trade route.

I am for a moment intoxicated, not just by the flavour but the entire setting that seems to be out of a fairy tale . Large wooden tables with rolling pins, wooden ladles, spoons and buckets lie scattered with wisps of flour and chocolate around in this gingerbread museum.I follow the gaze of the children and see a girl, looking straight out of the medieval times , shying away from the camera as she lovingly massages the flour in her hands. I realize that if I stay a moment longer, I will probably be lost in a medieval world of charming knights and maidens.

I step into the streets of Torun and it does have the effect on me. A chocolate brick tower looks askance at me from an angle. The streets are lined with quaint monuments that look straight out of a colourful postcard .The silence just adds to the quaintness . I stand at an angle to photograph the leaning watch tower as I hear that it was a technical fault that led to its posture. But the heart likes to believe more charming stories like this one. A love story between a knight and a nun goes awry and the knight builds the structure out of redemption, only to find it leaning for like his attachment. Locals say that you can clear your mind of all the guilt by standing below it for just ten seconds as I wonder if I should fight my conscience for all the indulgence in a quaint town.

I am beckoned by some history as we walk down the Old Gothic Town that has miraculously managed to ward off many battles, including the World War 11. Torun ‘s tryst with the medieval times goes to the era of the Teutonic Knights , who were actually men of a religious order from Jerusalem
Invited by the Polish princes to fight against the pagan Prussians, these men of militia decided to build a castle on the banks of the Vistula and make Torun with its river port , their home. Constant wars between the Polish and the knights continued, until the people of Torun eventually rebelled against the knights and laid siege to their castle. It lies in ruins here, but Torun’s medieval monuments have stood the test of time, even the World War 11 which has left the town unscathed.

The fortress, the gates to the city, the medieval walls, the town hall and the Gothic churches , the Baroque granaries, the ancient houses - all lend a quaint touch to Torun. As I gaze at the top of the cathedral tower, I see a huge bell, weighing seven tons referred to as God’s Trumpet . I am however told that this is not a landmark of Torun.

The city revolves around one astronomer, who literally lives today in the city – Nicolas Copernicus Thorunensis. The 15th century astronomer lives today in Torun as we walk into his elegantly designed two storeyed house that retains the original flavour since his time. We climb a wooden staircase and look out into the street from the study. The house , now a veritable treasure house and a museum gives you a peek into his mind.

Copernicus lives on in Torun even till date. Statues and shops, universities and restaurants are all named after this man who observed that it was the earth that rotated around the static sun. The church where he was baptised , his house where he was raised are all living symbols of his life in this city. Even the company that sells gingerbread bears his name. And Torun is proud of the man who showed the world the ways of the universe.

As we leave Torun, we give one last look at the town that lives forever steeped in its medieval era .The Vistula would have probably flowed here when the knights walked around, brandishing their swords and when Copernicus showed that the sun shone bright amidst the all the stars. If you can think of a place where time would have liked to stop, it is probably Torun.
Getting there
Torun’s Old Town is one of the World Heritage Sites and it is absolutely one of the most beautiful sites to visit. Located near Gdansk and about three hours by train from Warsaw . It is well connected by road as well. For details contact www.visittorun.pl.

This article was published on Rediff.com . Check out a photofeature on Torun in Yahoo.com

Skywatch Friday–Jordan is all Greek and Latin to me

2013-02-15T09:12:00.001+05:30

I was in Jordan a couple of years ago and we went to Jerash, which was an ancient Greco Roman city called Gerasa. The ancient city was buried under the sands of time, until excavations discovered it less than a century ago.

For lovely skies around the world, visit Skywatch every Friday

Couples around the world - Lets get hitched

2013-02-14T10:33:00.001+05:30

So here is a confession – I do not believe in Valentine’s Day as an expression of love . But that said, going by the spirit of the moment, love is all pervasive. You do not need a designated day to celebrate just because the retailers and the marketing men told you so. However, I have seen love blossoming where ever I travel.

From London to Avila to Alcala De Henares to Siem Reap, I have seen couples posing for their wedding photographs against the backdrop of a beautiful city .

We often ask them permissions before taking their pictures as they pose for that perfect moment. And I wish them all happiness wherever they are right now.

Markets of the world–Red hot peppers

2013-02-13T11:40:00.001+05:30

On a dusty highway somewhere between Karnakata – Andhra border, I saw a little colourful market – red hot in colour

Have you seen the other posts in the Markets of the World series ?

Celebrating Chinese New Year–Say it with lanterns in Hong Kong

2013-02-10T11:54:00.001+05:30

Celebrating Chinese New year..a entire photofeature was published in Yahoo . You can see it here

Birding Diaries– A pied kingfisher looking for its dinner

2013-02-07T19:42:00.001+05:30

Somewhere on the way between Tranquebar and Karaikal, late one evening, I found this pied kingfisher looking for dinner in some thorny bushes. The colours had anyways faded and hence, I chose to post it as a black and white version..I like the black and white better..what do you think ?