Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost

Stockholm On A Budget: Day One

2016-08-13T14:52:00.001-07:00

Knowing your bus and walking routes beforehand will be well worth the effort travelling around Stockholm.

I spent the first day pretty tired from the travel (just me after a long week at work) hence I chose to keep to the hotel premises. Laid out across the restaurant table, however, were my plans for the days ahead. With my travel pass at hand, I quickly discovered that knowing your bus routes, destination and where the actual stop is became essential. So here is the route I mapped out for my first day for your convenience.

After 20 minutes of aimlessly wandering around, and realising I had jumped on the wrong bus, I thanked the fact I had an unlimited travel card. Fourteen stops later, cutting right across the north of the city to Gamla Stan (the Old Town), I made it to the first destination - Stadshuset, or in English, Stockholm's City Hall.

You may think why the hell would I want to visit a city hall? After all, our own one isn't exactly a tourist attraction, but the views from the back of the building and the ornate architecture is well worth a look. First of all, the fact that it's free to enter is always a bonus. From May through September, you can climb the 103 steps up the tower for a pretty spectacular view - unfortunately due to my gimpy leg, I missed out on this extravaganza.

Instead, I walked further along, crossing a bridge into Gamla Stan, a medieval labyrinth of cobblestone streets and sapphire-hued buildings. The first landmark to galvanise the view is the

Riddarholm Church. Early enough and you'll miss all the crowds that usually surround this little beauty. I didn't enter as it opened at 10am, but it costs around 50SEK (£4.50).

Turning back on yourself, you can head up towards Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), apparently the world's largest palace still used for its original purpose. There were a few ominous-looking guards outside eyeing me up as I innocently photographed the amazing pylons, but Europe has been on high alert for a while, so unfortunately it's not my first time.

Next stop along the route was on the other side of the palace, which allowed you to capture Stockholm's gothic churches - Slottskyrkan, Finska kyrkan and Storkyrkan - all in one place. The unlevel paving by no means hinders you from getting around, especially as the entire area is housed in a walkable complex.

And behind all the lavish structures and edifices lies a sweet little idol - not hundreds of metre tall, just 15cm small - the Järnpojke or as it is known in English, "the little boy who looks at the moon", was created in 1954 by Swedish artist Liss Eriksson. Expect it to change on a daily basis, appearing with a hat and a scarf or a flower between his folded arms depending on the season.

So as you might have guessed, there's a lot of walking involved so prepare to stretch your legs! Meandering back through the alleyways, you'll end up at a European-looking square where the Nobel Prize Museum proudly stands. Without realising that I had ended up travelling to the city at a time when they celebrated Ascension day, I missed out on seeing this gem, but I heard it costs 100SEK (£9) to enter.

The next church down the road is the German church, founded in the 15th century - and at this point you'd probably be buildinged-out as I definitely was, so I headed straight past to Marten Trotzigs Grand, the city's narrowest alleyway.

As I am claustrophobic, just looking at it was enough but it was literally big enough for a small child. A fat American tourist unfortunately would quite likely get wedged tight down this roofless tunnel.

And after this mighty effort travelling around Gamla Stan, it's time to get some grub.

Stockholm: In Three Days On A Budget

2016-08-12T12:01:00.000-07:00

The Essentials

Accommodation:

As you may have realised, it's been a long while since I wrote on this blogsite, hence with age comes a few more luxuries. While I find it a bit more difficult to slum it these days, it's still very possible to find reasonably-priced accommodation coupled with a good night's sleep.

The best way of comparing prices are sites such as TravelSupermarket or Sky Scanner - just so you know what to expect and when to go without having a last minute heart attack. Sweden is one of those places where it's easy to burn a hole in your pocket - so travelling smart is key.

As I am now holidaying in-between work, I tend to fork out for my own room these days - so the one that I can recommend is the First Hotel Norrtull in Vasastan. It's a bit more upmarket and a standard stay for business folk, but expect free breakfast for the £90 room tag (for two nights). It's also about a 15 minute walk from the city centre, but has great transport links.

Using third party websites:

After using Booking.com, I found that the difference between staying in a dorm and a hotel was around £50. It's a steep difference, even booked two months in advance, so you have a choice of staying in a hostel or a 'cheapish' hotel. Weekdays are the best especially as room prices shoot up on a Friday for the three day weekend.

When using Booking.com - make sure you choose the options 7+ and above on the review score section on the left hand menu bar to find the best hostels - for two nights expect to pay around £50 for a reasonable dorm near the city centre. The one that seems to be popular with great reviews is City Backpackers Hostel.

Getting to and from Stockholm:

Flights can be as cheap as £28 - I find that going on Sky Scanner, selecting the "cheapest month" on the date section, and then choosing the dates according to the price can be a good way of finding a deal. RyanAir and EasyJet are miles ahead in terms of providing low cost flights from Stansted Airport.

Places to See:

Vasamuseet (Vasa Museum), Skansen Park, Stockholm Archipelago boat ride, Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), Stadshuset, Fotografiska, Moderna Museet, Gamla Stan (Old Town), all of these areas are totally walkable.

Transport:

Stockholm has an extensive transport network, so taking a bus or even a boat is relatively easy. From both Stockholm Skavsta and Arlanda airports, you can take a Flygbussarna bus that goes to and from the centre of town which is £25 return - well worth the money as it's more than an hour long trip.

At the Stockholm Central Station, there are plenty of local shops such as a Seven Eleven where you can buy 24 and 72 hour SL cards as well as a week long pass for SEK300 (£27.50). I'd suggest planning your routes on Google maps beforehand as to avoid panic on the bus. Everyone pretty much speaks English so it's a piece of cake.

I also decided to be a total tourist and jump on one of the red boats near Kungliga Slottet. Two companies Red Sightseeing (£15 for 24 hours) and Stromma (£16.50 for 24 hours) provide boats to travel to all the main hotspots saving a bunch of time as you attempt to make the most of the three days. My legs were definitely toned and my skin tanned by the end of the trip, so sit back, relax and enjoy the view.

Israel: Las Banias at Golan Heights

2012-08-06T16:15:00.001-07:00

Accommodation:

It's another pricey place, but again for good reason. Officially the border between Syria, Lebanon and Israel, people seem to forget that at one time - the birth of civilisation originated in these countries. So expect amazing waterfalls as the wettest region in the area.

This area isn't for the faint-hearted. The Golan may be a rural area and largely safe, however it is also one of the world's largest military barriers, and while it offers many hiking options, you should always be cautious for firing and mining fields. I found the Hitchhiker's Guide to Galilee, which is definitely a website to watch in the future.

Places to see and do:

Definitely the Banias are worth a visit (entry fee is NIS 27). This national park follows the Banias stream, and includes some easy and fairly short hiking trails that pass by old water mills, vigorous rapids, and the ruins of a temple to the god Pan. The city was located within the region known as the "Panion" (the region of the Greek god Pan), and is named after the deity associated with the grotto and shrines close to the spring called "Paneas".

Getting to and from Golan Heights:

Very strange place to try and get to. Apparently has the worst transport connections in the country, which really tells you a lot. It is off 'Route 99', and the nearest bus station (I say it very loosely) is Kiryat Shmona Central Bus station.

From Mikhmoret, take route number 872/852, one of the Egged ones, then you take the 841 bus when changing at Khadera Central Bus station. It takes several hours, and it doesn't end here. Or you can change at Netanya Interchange with the additional option of taking 910. When you get on this interchange, you will need to take 842 to Kiryat Shmona.

You need to see if you can catch a ride through Route 99 to the Banias as it is a little outside the town. If you have a driving licence, you can rent cars from the station, which is always useful. On the way back, it's another case of hitchhiking- and believe me, it takes time to flag down a car that arrives once every half hour.

Transport:

Getting around the Banias Nature Reserve, is a bit of a doddle if you're fit and you take shortcuts (wink, wink, nudge, nudge, say no more). But getting there and out is the biggest issue, so I suggest you make car rental plans or go with a tour.

So this place is a hiker's heaven. You need to trek several miles just to get to the place, after hours of travelling on a bus some distance away from the nature reserve. But it's really no wonder. What used to be seen as an important Christian pilgrimage, wouldn't quite have the same effect if it was only a cab ride away. And it could be quite strenuous for those not prepared for the great outdoors.

Remember: water is a must, and when we were there, we were still allowed to have a quick dip in the waterfall. Not quite sure whether that's the case now. Hats, sun screen, emergency supplies - and all that jazz.

We eventually made it to the Kiryat Shmona, after a hop, skip, jump and a food stop all the way from Mikhmoret. The beaches were a distant memory after visiting the slightly cooler highlands of the country. It was a strange feeling. It took almost 38 hours to feel a change of scenery and climate in India and China, yet this tiny country had the same impact in 4 hours.

After being left stranded in the nearby town, we realised it wasn't going to be as easy as we thought. We stood on a street corner (completely appropriately of course) and attempted to flag down a car going down route 99, waving our arms frantically as if we were trying to fly there. In the back of some hippy student's car (as always) we made it halfway through the route, before being kicked out. It was time to try flap our wings again.

It took a wee while, but we did eventually make it there in the same day amazingly. And it was packed to seams with tourists, all wearing multi-coloured caps, eager to catch a glimpse of Pan's Labyrinth...I mean Pan's temple.

The temenos (sacred precinct) included a temple, courtyards, a grotto and niches for rituals. It was constructed on an elevated, 80m long natural terrace along the cliff which towered over the north of the city. A four-line inscription at the base of one of the niches relates to Pan and Echo, the mountain nymph, and was dated to 87 CE.

This was just the beginning in the long line of ancient history that followed. After this came the Romans and associations with Jesus, the Byzantine empire, the Crusaders, the Ottoman empire and last but not least, the British empire.

Apart from the history lesson, it had breathtaking landscapes lining the Israeli-Syrian-Lebanese border. The Banias has the mother-of-all-waterfalls in its vicinity.

Depending on one’s pace, there is a 45-minute trail passing both Roman and Crusader sites, followed by another 90-minute walk passing by the Govta Stream until reaching the waterfall, which is generally considered the most impressive in Israel.

A point nine kilometres (about 5½ miles) further, where the Hermon Stream meets the Dan waterway, is the head of the Jordan River.

So what seemed like endless miles, wilting in the heat, we finally saw a glimpse of the waterfall through all of the flora and fauna. And it felt like a mirage, that much water spewing from the rocks, and all we wanted to do is jump into it.

Except, it being a nature reserve and all, we needed to find a remote spot where the authorities wouldn't bust our chops about it. And a remote spot we found, so far out the loophole that it was behind some revolving gates that said we wouldn't be allowed back, unless we climbed another 2 hours to get to the outside world. We chanced it, despite seeing the gates were against a sheer drop off a cliff side.

After a speedy dip in freezing cold water, in some bizarre part of the reserve which had an overturned tank, we decided to head back and attempt to take a shortcut. However, this shortcut consisted of climbing back over those gates without preferably falling to our death. And after careful contortion-ism, we made it back, feeling bad for the school kids who had to make that extra journey via the other side.

We finally got back to one of those obscure highway routes and realised that there were two elderly ladies attempting to also flag a car. It wasn't much of a competition, rather it was kind of pathetic. Guys were happily stopping for two young girls but not for those 'mature' women. We stopped a car, who wanted to take us and then pointed to them. He arrogantly shook his head and drove off.

The next guy stopped for us, but we gave it up for the two women, who gave us absolutely no time of day and not even a courteous thank you! We scoffed and vowed never to help any old-biddy ever again. It was pitch black by the time we got home. And our legs and arms needed a cast from all of the aches and pains.

Israel: Ancient Caesarea Sea Port

2012-08-06T07:36:00.001-07:00

Accommodation: So I didn't stay here, mainly because it was worth a day visit from Mikhmoret. It is directly midway between Tel Aviv and Haifa. If you're really desperate to stay, then there are some pretty pricey places so prepare to splurge.

Even local B&Bs start from around £50 per night. Dan Caesarea Hotel is the upmarket version of all of these hotels around £168 per night. Not exactly 'student-friendly' hence travelling from Mikhmoret.

Places to see and do: Well, itself is a national archaeological park, so that's the main thing to see. However, within the park, there are a few standout areas. The ancient and medieval city are preserved within the Caesarea National Park, so expect to find Roman aqueducts, moats, amphitheatre, various mosaics and an excavated palace. The history of this place is fascinating.

Getting to and from Caesarea: Not the easiest place to get to. From Tel Aviv or Netanya, take any bus along the coastal road towards Khadera, where you can disembark and connect with bus No 76 to Caesarea, the best of which depart at 8.20am, 11.25am, 1.10pm and 2.45pm.

Coming from Haifa, get off at the Caesarea intersection and hike or hitch the last 3.5km to the site. Alternatively, take the train (638 8007) to Binyamina from Tel Aviv (21NIS, 45 minutes) or Haifa (17.50NIS, 30 minutes) and look for a taxi to take you the last 7km.

Bus Line 76
Route: Hadera Shopping Centre, Central Bus Station, Hillel Yaffe Hospital, Nahal Hadera, Or Akiva, Caesarea, Sedot Yam

Bus Line 77
Route same as Bus Line 76

Moat surrounding the area.

Transport: It's walkable, but once you're outside, you may need to hitchhike, as buses seem to disappear after a certain time. People are nice enough to let you ride with them to the nearest bus stop. Again, do it with caution.

This was my first lone trip of several in the next few days, my friends having a life of their own and all. So I was pretty nervous. At this point, I started writing down basic phrases in all eventualities. One of the most useful phrases I found was "Le tachana merkazit Hadera?' (change as appropriate) which basically means 'Hadera Central Bus station??'

I actually did need the phrase as I ventured out of Mikhmoret. My friend dropped me off at the nearest bus stop just outside the village, at a motorway junction. I then took a bus to 'Hadera bus station', and eventually after several hours, waiting and twiddling my thumbs, I made it to Caesarea.

Chariot races at the theatre.

By then end, I was just following anyone who was wearing sweatpants tucked into their sandals, or those with a giant camera around their neck - the sign of a bad tourist.

And I was greeted by a moat excavated as part of the ruins, the outer wall of the national park. It seemed endless. All the unearthed parts of the Roman and Byzantine city, built by Herod the Great about 25–13 BCE.

I had seen the splendour of the ancient world at the Great Wall of China, Egypt's pyramids and tombs, India's two thousand year old temples. But this felt more authentic, because it resembled an archaeological dig.

Caesarea Maritima was named in honor of Augustus Caesar. The city became the seat of the Roman prefect soon after its foundation. Caesarea was the "administrative capital" beginning in 6 CE. In Byzantine times, Caesarea remained the capital, with brief interruption of Persian and Jewish conquest between 614 and 625.

In the 630s, Arab Muslim armies had taken control of the region, keeping Caesarea as its administrative centre. No doubt, it was a place of great importance and I felt a bit like Indiana Jones with the Holy Grail.

Even now, the site remains a place for fishermen to do their jobs, which gives the area a sense of purpose rather than turning it completely into a theme park. Of course there were little cinemas, eateries, galleries and an actual stadium created out of its former glory, but it all existed only to highlight the seaport's importance.

I spent the time soaking up every bit of its history including watching the 'cinemas', although some were in Hebrew. There were even men dressed up in costumes, attempting to recreate the people from the various empires that resided there, just to give some context to the history.

Eventually, the sun started to set over the sea, and it was beautiful to watch it glimmer of the waters. Except, I got carries away, and realised this meant it was 6pm and the park was about to close, and the buses were about to run off into the distance.

I ran out of there and waited for a good half hour at the bus stop before realising it was the end of the day. So looking a bit like a damsel in distress, I paced about until an elderly Jewish woman with her family stopped and gave me a ride to a bus stand near the motorway.

On the return journey, I couldn't help and buy a falafel kebab. You can't beat an authentic one from the country. Absolutely tantalising, so much so that it can still make my mouth water after all these years.

I was back on 'home turf', and it dawned on me that it was a bit of a trek from the junction to the house. Now I was sceptical about hitchhiking in this area, especially since the general motto was "where everybody knows your name" aka. you can jump into a car, and it wouldn't matter because everyone always knows someone through someone.

Well, it worked. Everyone knew the Hummus king. So it was all good. Generally a successful outing, with a tan to prove it.

Israel: Mesmerising Mikhmoret Beach

2012-08-05T11:59:00.002-07:00

Accommodation: As I said before, The Resort Hostel is next to the beach, where you can meet amazing people and chill out in the dorms. Off peak it's about 12/13 euros per night and there are even hammocks to laze around in. Rooms are basic, but the whole area is made up of filling 'basic needs'. Not the place if you're looking for an actual beach resort. The nearest transport is a bus stop 50 metres away, but hitchhiking is widely acceptable in this area, as it is a small village.

If you're thinking of becoming a long-term hippy here, this is the place to be. Apparently The Resort has volunteering roles in exchange for accommodation, working 4 hours a day and organising barbeques galore. You need a driving licence and be between 20-30 years old.

Places to see and do: Horse-back riding on the beach at sunset, biking and hiking in the park, kite surfing courses, scuba diving, visiting the marina, or just getting a tan on the beach. There are plenty of beach bars and restaurants, which is just something you have to do when you're on holiday.

Getting to and from Mikhmoret: From Ben Gurion Airport, take the train to Tel Aviv Sevidor Station (Arlozerov terminal), 10 minutes. Then switch to bus number 872/852 on the northbound, 30 minutes. Get off at (Beit Yanai) Yanai Interchange. Or from Tel Aviv's central bus station, same buses to the same junction via Egged bus company. It's only about £3!

Transport: It's pretty walkable, but you can hitchhike in some cases - always take caution!

I arrived at Tel Aviv in some godforsaken hour in the morning, which is what happens when you try scrimp on flights. It was pitch black outside the airport, after being ushered out by angry security men. I was greeted by my lovely friend and her partner, so I automatically felt reassured.

Now Mikhmoret is outside of Tel Aviv, almost 24 miles away and closer to Netanya. It is an absolutely tiny fishing village with apparently just over 1,100 people living in the beach town.

The moshav (Israeli settlement) was founded in 1945 by demobilised soldiers from the British Army, and was named Mikhmoret due to the profession of many of the founders being fishing. And now a lot of young ex-Israeli army members live there as hippies and teachers of the local school.

So after a tiring flight and restless night, I awoke to the sounds of the sea hitting the sandy shores, and the smell of hummus!!

Cliche as it sounds, the first sensory experience had to consist of the Levantine (Middle Eastern) cuisine in all of its glory. My friend's partner happened to be a master Hummus creator, and was taking part in an annual competition to see who could make the best one.

So why is Hummus such a major fad in the Middle East? Well, it isn't just a trend, a significant reason for the popularity of hummus in Israel is the fact that it is made from ingredients that, following Kashrut (Jewish dietary laws), can be combined with both meat and dairy meals. For Palestinians, hummus has long been a staple food, all of the ingredients in hummus are easily found in Palestinian gardens, farms and markets, thus adding to the availability and popularity of the dish.

As one of my friend's partner's groupies, I aided by tasting the concoctions as well as drawing a makeshift banner with 'Make Hummus not Hamas' as the main motto.

We set up at a small school adjacent to the beach, and paced about with the poster, urging fellow Hummus eaters to try some of his mix.

Now it was the first time I had ever judged a competition. And it certainly was the first time walking around with a pitta bread, dipping it surreptitiously from bowl to bowl around the school courtyard.

And it's true. I had never seen so many varieties of the chickpea-based dip, with chilies, olive oil, lemon garlic, aubergine...the list goes on. After the winner was announced (sadly, my friend's partner lost his championship title) a boogie ensued under the canopy.

It wasn't a bad first morning, and probably a little unusual for a tourist to encounter. But I guess that's the gift having friends living locally.

After this, my friend and I decided to climb along the rocky coast that lines the shores alongside the sandy plains. On the way, we saw groups of young children from the nearby school making their way on boats. The College of Marine Sciences bring a very young, and lively crowd to the village. The older university students (some formerly army recruits) now take on some of the teaching at the school aka fishing, cycling, kite-surfing, trail hiking - not a bad life is it?

A quick swim in the warm waters was enough for the first day, especially as I wasn't appropriately attired. In the evening, we celebrated with burgers at a local restaurant. No doubt, it is one of those towns where you do need a car, or some sort of transport to get by, as I found out. It was like an island of local eats surrounded by a car park off the motorway.

On the way back, we were greeted by friends. It seems like the best place to catch a chat with someone you will never usually meet. Especially when it comes to religion and politics and the controversial time I had arrived. Several days before, Israeli armed forces fired on flotilla heading towards the Gaza strip. Everyone was under scrutiny, the country was under scrutiny. And as a journalist, my ears and hands were itching to ask questions.

I heard a variation of facts from several sides in the few days that I was there. But I avidly listened, and was sympathetic to what I heard. I was painted a very different picture from what the mainstream news had portrayed.

Other days when I wasn't politicking, I would dip my feet in the waters, or read a book while swinging in a hammock. It was the nomadic life that I always dreamed of.

Israel On a Shoestring

2012-08-03T09:54:00.002-07:00

I've been meaning to write this blog for a long while, probably because out of all my travels it would be the most obscure place I have been to.

Never been a big fan of the tourist track, political places seem to be more appealing for me (within limits of course).

The Essentials

First things first, sorting out all of the nooks and crannies of the visit. Believe me, Israel isn't like Europe or South East Asia, so keeping that in mind, organisation is crucial to visiting the country.

So you probably won't do things the way I did it, mostly because I stayed with friends when I was there. However, I will write around it, making sure all the boxes are ticked in order for you to get to the main sites in one piece.

The political situation in Israel makes the country incredibly volatile. You may arrive at Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv one day, and see that security are perfectly friendly towards you. At other times, if they get a whiff of suspicion, you may have to hang about for them to 'interrogate' you or simply be rude towards you.

Border between Israel and Lebanon, Golan Heights

Passport Situation

Due to the ongoing Israeli-Palestinian dispute, Afghanistan, Algeria, Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Saudi Arabia, Somalia, Sudan, Syria, and Yemen block passports containing stamps or visas from Israel.

You may also have difficulties getting into and/or be refused visas to other Islamic countries, such as Bangladesh, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Pakistan, etc.

Sometimes, these countries don't notice that you have a stamp from Israel, or if you're lucky, the Israeli authority may not stamp your passport- in that case, you won't have to worry about visiting other countries. Right now however, it wouldn't be a good idea-so choose your travels wisely. They didn't with mine, and so I had no issues crossing into Indonesia (the largest Islamic country in the world).

If you intend to visit any of these nations, ask immigration to stamp a blank page, rather than your passport, when entering. Note that those countries will also search for Jordanian/Egyptian exit stamps from land borders with Israel and will likewise prohibit your entry if they find one. KEEP YOUR PAPERS SAFE!

All EU states can enter Israel visa-free for up to 3 months.

If, however, you are suspected of being of Arab descent, Muslim, or a political activist, it is possible that you will be subject to prolonged questioning, searches and/or denied entry.

Getting to and from Israel

Israel's main international airport is Tel Aviv's Ben-Gurion International Airport, which is approximately 40km from Jerusalem and 12 km from central Tel Aviv, and serves both cities.

Cheapest time to fly is between November- March, avoiding peak time summer. I went via Lufthansa which is a pretty reliable airline to travel with. According to Skyscanner.net, in July 2012, flights were £237 return, which is very cheap for peak time travel. It can easily go up to £400 even with low cost airlines. But local airlines (if you don't mind supporting Israel's government) such as EL AL Israel Airlines usually provide cheaper fares then the big flash ones.

January can get very cold in the high areas, but actually summer is far too hot to appreciate nature in the country. Any other season, gives you a selection of nature's best vistas. In January, return flights can start from around £148.

Mikhmoret Beach

Accommodation

Right, you may think that the Middle East may be exempt from Europe's extortionate prices, but unfortunately Israel still falls into that trap. It being one of the more developed countries in the region and its strong associations with the West, means that prices can reach the same levels as a Western European country.

Mikhmoret

I stayed with friends at the initial destination in Mikhmoret Beach (outskirts of Tel Aviv), which isn't the most touristy area. It is filled with hippy Jewish students teaching the way of surfing and yachting on its famous beaches and is famous for being a fishing village. But no doubt, it's a fabulous beach, so if you want to put your feet first in water, than staying in a cabin is a great idea.

The Resort Hostel is next to the beach, where you can meet amazing people and chill out in the dorms. Off peak it's about 12/13 euros per night and there are even hammocks to laze around in. Rooms are basic, but the whole area is made up of filling 'basic needs'. Not the place if you're looking for an actual beach resort. The nearest transport is a bus stop 50 metres away, but hitchhiking is widely acceptable in this area, as it is a small village.

I used this place as a hub, and that way it wasn't so strenuous lugging around a suitcase to the different cities.

NOTE: Israel is a pretty small country, you can go across the entirety of it between 5-10 hours, so it's not really worth moving around too much.

Jerusalem

Citadel Youth Hostel

I absolutely loved the atmosphere of the Citadel Youth Hostel in Jerusalem. A unique experience staying in what seemed to be a cave with all of the cobble stones in the wall. But the fact that the open rooftop was also utilised as a sleeping space for all those adventurous souls wanting to nap under the stars, just seemed positively quirky (only from May-October). You can watch the sun set on the famous Dome from the top, well worth it really! It's again very basic meant for students (or not even that), so don't expect silk bedsheets.

WARNING: If you have a lot of luggage, finding this place is a bit of a nightmare. The cobble stone pavements make it impossible to carry a trolley around. And it's a little bit out of plain sight. Also, the cave like walls make sleeping quite stuffy.

Places to See

Caesaria Sea Port

I can honestly say 5 days is not enough to see the splendour of Israel. However, in that amount of time, it was well worth seeing:

Caesarea Sea port
Visit the Dead Sea
Tour of the Old City in Jerusalem
Wailing Wall
Sea of Galilee
Baha'i Gardens in Haifa
Golan Heights
West Bank (again if you are interested in the political side, it's not a tourist trail)
And if you have enough time, definitely see Masada.

Transport

I lived on buses in Israel. They have quite an extensive bus route, but it isn't for the faint-hearted! At times, I would keep a phrasebook with me, just in case, and at times I definitely needed it. They are fast and reliable, and a lot cheaper than the West. It's definitely smart to plan well ahead.

The extensive national bus system is run by a public corporation called Egged (pronounced "Eg-ged"), the second-largest bus network in the world. Additionally, a bus company called Dan operates mainly in the Tel Aviv metropolitan area, and other major cities such as Be'er Sheva, check their web site for details.

Egged, and Dan have English-speaking representatives with nation wide phone numbers. Some other companies are active as well.

I had to hitchhike several times, which seemed like the norm, but choose your areas wisely. You would be downright stupid to do it in the West Bank.

Berlin's best parks

2012-08-03T07:16:00.000-07:00

Berlin is not short of parks, and it's incomparable in terms of its foliage. Expect more than flat terrains, with a variation of flora and fauna, and even outdoor parties!

Tempelhofer Park

On first look, you may think who the hell would want to sit on an airport runway? Well, never fear, it is actually an abandoned airport, which makes it all the more unique. This space is a haven for skaters, bikers, roller-bladers, anything with wheels. Just think, there were 40 inch tyres going at 150mph at one time!

Now there are people in stripy aprons cooking up a storm with portable barbeques, watching sports on giant screens, wind and kite surfing, and planes still hang around the area! Party revellers like to hang around the area to sweat off a hangover.

Tempelhofer Park

Platz der Luftbrücke, 12101 Berlin

Phone: +49 302 8018 162

Transport: Bus U Platz der Luftbrücke: 104, 248, N42, N6. U- Bahn Platz der Luftbrücke

Mauerpark

(Daniel Antonaccio)

Mauer literally translates into 'wall', which basically is how this park came into existence. It was formerly a part of the Death Strip and Berlin Wall. In a completely different fashion, the park now hosts great music with a mini ampitheatre in the centre and people lugging around instruments and sound boxes in trollies. The Bearpit Kareoke is sadly under threat, as is anything that is free in Berlin, so enjoy it while it lasts.

The Max Smelling Halle stadium for sports events is also held nearby. And you can stroll around on Sunday to catch all the vintage goodies at the flea market.

Mauerpark

Eberswalder Straße/Schwedter Straße, 10437 Berlin

Treptower Park

This place is known for its Soviet Union Memorial in south central Berlin, so whilst you're lapping up the foliage, you can soak up a bit of history at the same time. It commemorates the 50,000 Soviet soldiers who fell in the Battle in Berlin in April–May 1945. It was opened four years after the war ended on May 8, 1949.

The coolest bit of Treptower, is the Spreepark section. In the 1960s', it was an entertainment park known as Kulturpark Plänterwald. It has been abandoned, but still has some remains of attractions on-site.

Alt-Treptow

12435 Berlin Treptow

Contact: kontakt@treptowerpark

Phone: +49302 50025

Website: www.treptowerpark.de

Transport: S-Bahn Bahnhof Treptower Park

Tiergarten

Okay, so we covered a bit of Berlin's imperial park on 'Day Two' of the tour. But it's worth reiterating that Tiergarten is the largest park in the city. Forested areas, lakes, fields of flowers, streamlets, meadows and large stretches of grass turn this part of former West-Berlin into one of the cities most appealing green spaces.

While I was there, it was also used as the main spot for marathons, the equivalent to Hyde Park in London.

Tierpark Berlin-Friedrichsfelde

Am Tierpark 125, Berlin

Phone: +49 (0) 513 8141

Transport: Bus 100, 187, 200, or 341. S-Bahn Tiergarten

Görlitzer Park

Indoor minigolf Berlin

It's not the prettiest park, but it's not around for that reason. This once railway station (1867-1951) and home to British anarchist art communes, is now a seasonal snowball stadium and a full-time run-down park. It's a bohemian rhapsody for all hippies to enjoy themselves.

And at night, it becomes an ultraviolet underground crazy golf area. Located underneath Café Isa Mitz in Kreuzberg's Görlitzer Park, this mini-golf course has become a favourite word-of-mouth success.

Görlitzer Park

Görlitzer- / Wiener Straße, 10997 Berlin

Sanssouci Park, Potsdam

Sanssouci is the name of the former summer palace of Frederick the Great, King of Prussia, in Potsdam, just on the outskirts of Berlin. It's like the Versaille of Germany. The baroque-style palace is surrounded by a panoramic vista of the garden. A series of architectural and landscaping masterpieces were built within a single space in 1745 to 1747.

Other highlights include the Chinese tea house with the floor plan in the form of a cloverleaf and the Orangery, with its Raphael Hall. The Evangelical Church of Peace and the dragon house is worth a peek.

Potsdam - Sanssouci palace

Maulbeerallee

14469 Potsdam

Phone: +49331 96 94 20 2

Website: www.spsg.de

Transport: Potsdam Park Sanssouci railway station, located on the Berlin-Potsdam-Magdeburg line.

The palace is considered the major work of Rococo architecture in Germany. And surprise, surprise - it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Berlin: In Three Days - Day 3

2012-07-26T15:00:00.000-07:00

Day Three

Right, so it's the last day. And you've still got to see the one site that makes Berlin one of the most unique cities in the world. A division that almost destroyed the country, but the destruction of it gave Germany a new lease of life. It could only be the East Side Gallery or as it is better known as the Berlin Wall.

For 28 years, the Berlin Wall cut an unrelenting gash through the whole of downtown Berlin in an attempt to prevent the citizens of East Berlin and the German Democratic Republic from fleeing to the West. By 1989, the wall fell with the collapse of the GDR.

The East Side Gallery is now an international memorial for freedom, which allows 106 artists from all around the world to display their message of hope through art.

The build-up to seeing the wall is exhilarating enough for any avid traveller. On the Mühlenstrasse stretch, the nearest stop to the wall is Ostbahnhof (line S5, S7, S9, S75) and it being a beacon of freedom, it only seems apt that it's free.

Seeing it in person, is a whole other kettle of fish. It's truly bizarre to imagine that such beautiful paintings reside on top of a canvas that caused so much misery. Only 23 years ago, 136 people had died in shootings, were killed in accidents or committed suicide after failing to cross the Wall.

In between the cracks of the wall, there are places to relax alongside the river. Oststrand or the 'East Beach' is a bar on the banks of the River Spree. Apparently, it's Berlin's biggest urban beach, so when it's sunny, you may think your in the Mediterranean somewhere. At this point, public transport is in order, as the next destination is 4km away, and you may not be up for walking for a third day running.

Spend the rest of the afternoon checking out Museum Island, (Alexanderplatz S- and U-Bahnhof). It has its own micro-climate, like putting your foot in the past. From ancient History to modern art, you can see everything Berlin has to offer in this square. Choose wisely, as time and money becomes rather precious here. I went to the German History Museum to get a better feel for the country for a mere 5 euros. There's even The Ramones Museum, solely dedicated to the Punk band. This whole area has been deemed an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Other Great Places to Visit

Gendarmenmarkt - Reported as one of the most beautiful squares in Europe.
Charlottenburg palace- largest palace in Berlin, originally constructed in the 17th century.
Potsdam - 24km outside the city, contains the large baroque Neues Palace.
Russian Memorial - Dedication for soldiers who died in the war.
Tempelhof Park - Amazing abandoned airport, now used to host concerts and barbeques.

Berlin: In Three Days - Day 2

2012-07-26T10:54:00.000-07:00

Day Two

Again, the History student in me tells everyone that you can't leave Berlin without visiting the infamous border, Checkpoint Charlie. Checkpoint Charlie, along with Glienicker Brücke (Glienicker Bridge) was the best known border-crossing of the Cold War days. The sign, which became a symbol of the division of Cold War Berlin and read like a dire warning to those about to venture beyond the Wall – YOU ARE NOW LEAVING THE AMERICAN SECTOR.

Until the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9, 1989, it signified the border between West and East, Capitalism and Communism, freedom and confinement. The Museum, known as Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (entry is 12.50 euros), contains the best documentation available on the many escape attempts from East to West. The nearest station is Kochstraße U6, and around the corner is Wilhelmstrasse, which houses Germany's former governmental administration.

Wilhelmstrasse was the site of the Third Reich's most important ministries and embassies. The Topography of Terror is an open-air exhibition (free), which documents the history of this site as the control centre of the National Socialist programme of persecution and annihilation. Niederkirchnerstraße is the road you need to look for to find the site.

Walk far enough down Wilhelmstrasse, and turn left onto Hannah-Arendt-Straße, next thing you'll see is a grey labyrinth of concrete boxes. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe also known as the Holocaust Memorial, literally dawns on you as you meander through a field of of 2,700 concrete slabs.

The abstract graves is open to personal interpretation, however the overall feeling getting lost through the mammoth maze, is of suffocation and impending doom as the blocks gradually grow.

Back on Wilhelmstrasse, you can catch a glimpse of the Brandenburg Gate. The neoclassical triumphal arch is one of the most illustrious landmarks of Germany. It is the only remaining gate of a series through which Berlin was once entered. Just one block north stands the German Reichstag (Parliament), which once the governmental home of the Prussian Empire.

After being sufficiently 'historied'-out, Tiergarten not only was the preferred hunting ground of the elector princes of Brandenburg, but its swampy forests is like a magical wonderland. It's apparently the largest park in Berlin. And that's another thing, Berlin parks are like no other - and must be explored.

Again, the best way of unearthing a great place is to actually take a bicycle or your feet and get around the place.

It's time to head back for today, if you're feeling drained from the walk, but there's plenty of nightlife in Berlin to enjoy- so rest beforehand!

Berlin: In Three Days - Day 1

2012-07-25T15:19:00.001-07:00

Day One

I had been to Berlin before when I was a wee little'un, but it doesn't quite have the same impact visiting it with friends as a young adult. For one I didn't need to hold someone's hand crossing the road (well, not always!)

It inadvertently became the day of trailing art. And it wasn't a bad start to get a better sense of the city. So the first stop was to Berlin's art district at Oranienburger Tor (line U6), which consisted of a dilapidated warehouse, with graffiti resembling a modern-day Sistine Chapel. It was literally caked in paint, beautifully formed into a master craft. But sadly, I'm not sure if it's still in existence, as last I heard, they were pulling it down.

At first glance, it's rather difficult to establish what the building was. Was it a building with Banksy replicas or were there actual artists at work here? As we made our way to the top of the tower, it became apparent that there skilled masters crafting a new piece, and showcasing their paintings and photography. Apparently, it is the skeletal ruin of a 1907 department store that has been occupied since 1990 by a collective of artists from all over the world.

There were two in particular that stood out. One was surrealism galore, as if Primus had been poured into the paint. The other had photographs of an aged woman, her innocence and sweetness peered from behind her eyes. It would be a shame if it no longer existed, but it being entirely run by donations, it's hardly likely to stay open.

Then a walkabout was in order. Down Oranienburger Street, a strange museum appeared next to the beautiful new Jewish synagogue. It must have been the C/O Photography exhibition, with an apt Soviet Union car sticking halfway out the building. Entrance was a 'student'-pricey ₤10, so I gave it miss that day.

Walk far enough down the road, and you will hit Hackeschen Höfe, a series of inner courtyards located in the district of Spandauer Vorstadt, in Mitte. They were built in 1904 as a sequence of buildings to be connected by inner courtyards that are not only areas of housing but also shops and workshops.

In these courtyards, you can find the “Chamäleon” theatre as well as the cinema Hackeschen Höfe Kino, not to mention a clothes, food and craft market open on Thursdays and Saturdays.

From there, turn right onto An der Spandauer Brücke and right again onto Anna-Louisa-Karsch-Straße (street), which will lead you towards the TV Tower (the tallest building in the country and an iconic image of Berlin). At the TV Tower, you can get a panoramic view of Berlin for 12 euros, remembering to book in advance to avoid the queues!

The Neptune Fountain (The neo-baroque fountain, decorated with bronze statues Zeus, was created between 1886 and 1891 by Reinhold Begas) and the Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall) are also down Spandauer Straße. This is also the place you can catch a hop on hop off city tour bus.

Next thing you know, you're at Alexanderplatz eating a burger on the steps.

Berlin, Germany: On a Shoestring

2012-07-25T11:55:00.000-07:00

The Essentials

Accommodation:

Okay, I've been rather blessed over the last few years to have people to stay with in Europe. Berlin was such a place, but I heard that Ostel is relatively cheap, (though the price has increased), and gives an 'authentic' feeling of East Berlin under the Soviet Union. If you're looking for something eccentric, then this place offers bunkbeds galore. Or if you really want to try something kooky, then my old friend Couchsurfing is supposed to be at the height of its services. Nothing beats staying in Berlin with a local who knows the night-life like the back of their hand.

And location-wise? Again Kotti/ Kottbusser Tor, is outside of the main tourist area and has quite a lot of restaurants, parks and random entertainment to explore. It is predominantly a Turkish area, so you know what that means- 2am kebabs. Again, I stayed in Berlin for about a month, so I had enough time to pace myself. But three days should be enough to get a taste of the Berlin flavour.

Places to See:

The Reichstag (Parliament), Jewish memorial, Checkpoint Charlie (DDR Museum), Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate, Alexanderplatz, Berlin Wall, Art District (Kunsthaus Tacheles), Russian Memorial as well as all the various parks to visit. Former airport, Tempelhof Park is well worth the visit if you have extra time to spare.

Getting to and from Berlin:

Both Easyjet and Ryanair do cheap-ish flights from London Stansted or Luton to Berlin Schoenefeld, which is less than the main airports. But you have to factor in transport to and from the airport which is ₤15 as well as extra luggage for ₤30. So a small bag should suffice. I had a handbag for one month! Ryanair can do return flights from £40 excluding tax, while Easyjet is a little more expensive £65.

Transport:

Berlin is well-designed to get around fairly easily. Whether you want to cycle through the town or take the overground train/tram, there's a stop everywhere. Buying tickets was a little annoying from the machine, so you need to know your destination in advance. Insiders Berlin gives a handy guide on buying tickets:

When buying a ticket you need to choose your zones, which you can find on the map. Usually you’ll be travelling in Zones AB and to get to Schoenefeld airport you’ll need a zone ABC.

A basic zone AB ticket will cost you €2.10. The ticket is good for 2 hours and allows you to make as many changes as you need (from bus, to tram to U-bahn etc) in a 2 hour period as long as you are travelling in the same direction. In other words don’t try to treat it like a return ticket.

And Deutsche Bahn's Call-A-Bike service is a great place for renting a bicycle and the first-point of call to get a hold of one.

Luckily, a lot of people speak English, so don't be afraid to ask for help or try the Reisezentrum (Travel Centre) inside any train station. Otherwise it's a great place to stretch your legs and soak up the sights.

The Final Countdown: Penang, Malaysia

2012-07-21T10:03:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: The Banana New Guest House was cheap and convenient ranging from RM25 to RM70 for a double/twin room. We stumbled upon the guesthouse on arrival to Georgetown, the best area to find cheap hostels, a buzzing nightlife and great restaurants nearby aka India town.

Places to See: Penang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I think partially because the entire tiny island mixes all of the best sights together. From waterfalls, secluded beaches, to cultural heritages bringing a melting pot of yummy food together.

Getting to and from Penang: Buying a ticket in advance or extremely last minute for flights from Surabaya to Penang is VERY important. The prices can range from £34 to £87 on Air Asia, which is relatively pain-free. You can get some really good deals on South East Asian flights from there. From the airport, you can (most of the time) get a taxi from outside of the Penang Bayan Lepas International Airport. On the way back to Thailand, we took a train from Butterworth, the main port that connects Penang to the mainland. It takes about 23-27 hours on the train, so no mean feat and costs around £24 in a second-class sleeper.

Transport: We rented our own motorbike or scooter to get around. These shops can be found along Chulia Street and also Penang Road. Cost is around RM25 for 24 hour rental. Deposit is often RM200. We got ours from Banana Guest House's travel and tour company next door.

It was quite a change from the mountain-hiking, sooty landscape of Bromo. It was pouring in Penang, far from the idyllic sandy shores I had in mind, and finding a taxi outside of the airport was next to impossible under the rumbling thunder. But eventually, we arrived at Georgetown, which seemed to be buzzing with its humdrum nightlife and hundreds of tourists. And Banana New Guest House appeared to be the most enticing, specially as motorbikes lined the vicinity - which meant only one thing - travelling around Penang in style.

Around the corner came little India in the form of little restaurants and stalls. It was weird to be eating great home-cooked- style food, something that I cook myself, in Malaysia. There was South Asian faces everywhere, and I could understand everything they were saying, even conversing with them all myself. It's like I never left home. My boyfriend was also on a mission to eat the best Channa Masala since his trip to India, so we were in the right place.

Being back on the rear of a motorcycle was an exhilarating experience, and not just a painful one. Closing my eyes, letting the sun and wind seep into my skin. I got my much needed Vitamin D intake in Penang, particularly after 6 months of hibernating in Beijing. There were no plans or restrictions.

We went where the open roads took us. From eating authentic local cuisine from stalls lining the coast, to being the only people on our very own private beach. We even attempted to climb a steep hill to see the waterfall at the Botanical Gardens, but after the first flight of steps, it didn't quite fulfil the 'relaxing' leisurely time we had in mind. After trekking through Borneo, climbing volcanoes and other structures for the last five weeks, it started to take its toll.

But I did attempt to drive the motorcycle myself and that's when I realised that I am officially bi-wheel challenged. Whether it be bicycles or motorcycle, if it doesn't have an extra wheel, I have no sense of balance, and so riding the bike was not a pretty picture.

Then it was all over. Six weeks of being on the road ended with us taking a boat back to Butterworth for the final journey back to Beijing. It was one of those moments, a sigh of sadness rather then relief, despite all of the ups and down encountered. One word to sum up - unforgettable.

Apocalyptic Gunung Bromo, Indonesia

2012-07-20T13:18:00.001-07:00

Accommodation: Well, we first stayed in the centre of town, in which they organised a one night stay and transport to and from Mount Bromo. Okay, I can't be completely sure, but we definitely stayed on a main road, so I think it was Hotel Bromo Permai. It was clean and my partner was over the moon when he found out he could watch the Arsenal match on TV.

Once we were on the actual mountain itself, we stayed in basic lodges, which was adequate for one night. I remember distinctly that it was part-owned by German people, hence sausages were on the menu, so I think it was Yoschi's Guest House (145,000- 180,000 for two and season dependent).

Unfortunately, since Bromo had just erupted 2 weeks before we arrived, they had struggled to clean the ash-sodden lodges. It was a good 5km hike from Mount Bromo, but worth the walk and smiles along the way. But watch out for the steep hills, and potentially toxic air. If you have breathing difficulties- wait until Bromo has been given the all-clear or otherwise bring a face mask!

Places to See: Well, apart from Gunung Bromo, - I was excited to find out that it was named after the Hindu god Brahma - Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park contains the highest mountain in Java, Mount Semeru (3,676 m), as well as four lakes and 50 rivers. The nearby mountain village Cemoro Lawang is also worth the walk around. The town of Probolinggo itself is just a stop-off point for Mount Bromo.

Getting to and from Probolinggo-Mount Bromo: Bus from Yogyakarta to Probolinggo takes about 10 hours, not the most comfortable, but you get your money's worth (120,000Rp) and its direct. Then the local hotel can arrange minibus transport to Cemoro Lawang (nearest town to Mount Bromo) as well as accommodation. You can also book your bus back from them as well - we bought tickets to Surabaya airport. An express Patas air-conditioned bus from Probolinggo to Surabaya takes about 2/3 hours (about Rp 25,000).

Transport: Both towns are walkable, and transport to Cemoro Lawang/ Mount Bromo can be arranged in advance.

Right, being stubborn as a mule stuck in concrete, I made a rather dramatic scene when my compadres became reluctant to go to an erupting volcano. Two weeks prior to our arrival, Mount Bromo had given way, and it wasn't a common occurrence. The site had to be evacuated and was still in the danger zone.

Granted, it wasn't my best idea, but as things had already gone awry on this trip- including sinking boats, indecisive decision-making and general nuisances when you travel in a quintet-I was determined to, even if I had to go it alone.

After throwing a big enough tizzy (not my best moment I must admit) we decided to take a bus to the drop-off point, a town named Probolinggo.

The journey seemed endless, and it was dark before we hit the Indonesian town. After phoning a Lonely Planet hotel frantically before our arrival, we were thankfully greeted by local staff at 11 o'clock at night. I honestly didn't think it would happen, as my guide book is about 4 years old and starting to brown.

The hotel were friendly, but everyone was rather cranky (I take full responsibility). And it was then that we decided to book our trip to Mount Doom. It would be the next morning, so after a wee nap, wash and quick shop for all the essentials downtown, we jumped on our ride towards there.

We did have a bit of a queasy feeling as the rickety minibus slowly climbed higher. Especially the sheer impact of the eruption started to dawn on us.

It was a scene from The Road, or something rather more apocalyptic. Everything the eye could behold was covered in a powdery ash substance, it was like all the colours had been drained from a landscape photograph.

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by an air of tension as loud moans could be heard from Bromo's stomach. Every 5-10mins, he made his presence known, although he was a good 5km away from the area. And a beautiful moth, victim to nature's calamity, lay silently at the entrance to the wooden lodge.

The lodge itself had sadly taken a massive hit as well. It was literally covered by a layer from Bromo's breath, and we started to realise that it wasn't over. Our eyes started to sting, and soot started to crawl down our throat and nostrils. It was everywhere you went and everything you could see.

Inside our rooms however, I wasn't sure if the volcano had hit it or if it was naturally topsy-turvy, but there were beds overturned. It look like whoever resided there previously had left in a hurry. Was it a precursor to what could happen in an eruption? I hoped not.

After 'settling in', a stroll seemed in order, especially since I had just eaten my much needed English breakfast. It was an odd moment. Watching perfectly blissful, content people in front of an end-of-the-world backdrop. As if they had resigned to inevitability. The children played in a black field, using ash rocks as footballs, without worrying about the sulphuric residue left on their bodies.

It was like following a trail of breadcrumbs to the volcano, except it was miles of black stormy clouds shrouding the sky leading to Mount Doom. The people happily waved as we made our way through the hilly mountain pass. And the closer we got to it, the harder it became to breathe.

At one point it seemed endlessly distant, so close and yet invisible. And then it appeared in all of its glory. A barren wasteland, dry desert-like plains with large, black, cratered peaks- booming and spewing molten lava like it had a bad cold and was seriously pissed off.

We had been hearing Bromo grumbling since our arrival, and he sure as hell wasn't happy to see more tourists. But we gasped at its almighty splendour, savouring the moment with a much needed coffee. It was worth every moan and disaster on that trip hands down.

On the way back, we managed to catch a glimpse of the sun setting behind layers and wafts of smoke. Like the light at the end of a long tunnel.

Only when we returned did we realise we were literally caked in ash, and a shower was in order. We then traipsed through the lodges attempting to find warmish water. And I washed I did, with a spider as my companion.

Sleeping was terrifying, hearing the rumbles every few minutes. And waking up at twilight to catch the sunrise was a surreal experience. It felt like we were being kidnapped, we were hustled by what seemed to be hundreds of locals pushing us into a darkened minivan. But everything feels creepy when you are awoken abruptly.

Next thing we know, we're being ushered on donkeys up a hill. Climbing in the dark is a whole other kettle of fish. But watching the sun rise was even more climactic then it seeing it set. Bromo was beautiful.

Best of Borobudur, Indonesia

2012-07-18T13:28:00.001-07:00

Accommodation: Stayed at the budget Pondok Tinggal Hotel. First impressions of this large hotel constructed of bamboo and timber are that it looks far too grand for budget travellers, but actually it’s really cheap and it’s definitely everything you pay for (IDR. 25.000 per person).

There isn’t proper plumbing, and the dorms are a little dilapidated, but it has a beautiful atmosphere, especially with its stunning courtyard. I found hair and glass in the food, but if you’re a bit like me, it doesn’t really spoil the mood. As we went during the monsoon season, it was a little damp and cold.

Places to See: Well, Borobodur itself is absolutely breathtaking. It is a Buddhist stupa and temple complex in Central Java, Indonesia dating from the 8th century, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is one of world's truly great ancient monuments, the single largest Buddhist structure anywhere on earth. Entry into Borobudur costs US$15/Rp 135,000 for adult non-Indonesians or if you are a student, like I was at the time, it’s US$8/Rp 72,000 – but you need proper proof like student ID.

We also did the Sunrise Package, for IDR. 250,000 per person, which was arranged by the hotel. This consisted of driving on the back of a motorcycle by experts in their field, to watch the sun rise over Borobudur from a near by hill. It’s pretty easy to get around and fun to do.

Getting to and from Borobudur: From the airport, we chartered a taxi, which obviously is a lot easier to do when there are five of you. A taxi from Yogyakarta airport to Borobudur costs around Rp 225,000. There are also buses to get to the main bus terminal in Yogyakarta. It’s about 10,000Rp from Borobudur via Muntilan to Yogyakarta for about 1 1/2 hours, and 5,000Rp from Borobudur to Muntilan.

Transport: Borobudur is definitely best on foot. It’s quite a small town and exploring around is the best way of getting authentic cuisine. But you can easily charter motorbikes from hotels.

After an epic trip getting out of Pontianak, we were relieved to be in a city more accustomed to female tourists. Getting a taxi was pretty immediate, and it was exciting to finally make our way to see the great Borobudur in the flesh.

The hotel was incredibly welcoming and looked very luxurious. But the monsoon season and recent natural calamity made the town look a little worse for wear. There were still traces of ash covering the horizon from Indonesia’s many volcanic eruptions.

In the dark, we were completely oblivious to the surroundings. But after a bit of an awkward sleep in the dormitory, and an even more awkward awakening at 5am to catch the sunrise, we realised that we were in a valley, encircled by volcanos.

In our sleepy states, we shuffled towards the back of the fleet of motorcycles awaiting us. It was rather exhilarating having the wind sweep across our face, the perfect wake-up call. But then came the struggle up a rather muddy hill. It was touch-and-go, but eventually we made it to the top as the sun started peaking through the gaps.

Now being monsoon season, it wasn’t exactly the best time to watch the sun rise over Borobudur. It was damp and cloudy, and so we could barely make out a silhouette in the distance next to Mount Merapi. But there was something mystical about the whole area, touched by restless spirits.

And then the big climax came. We headed towards the UNESCO World Heritage Site, excited to see what they had created.
Okay, on a sunny, clear day, it should look like the above picture. But it was very misty, and the volcanic eruption overshadowed the glorious structure. There was extensive renovation taking place, with builders removing ash, as well as local Indonesian students swarming the area, attempting to use their English skills – which meant only one thing.

Apart from being pursued by local hawkers, students darted questions at us from all angles. In the end, we ended up as Spaniards, and pretended we didn’t know any English. They were lovely and all, but at 7am, no one was in the mood to teach.

But no doubt, it was overwhelming to see the sight. Borobudur consists of six square platforms topped by three circular platforms, and is decorated with no less than 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues of various types. Climbing it can take some effort, so the earlier the better, before the midday sun hits the stupa.

There are six different postures of Buddha's statue from the bottom level to the top. These are contact with earth, giving and helping, meditation, fearlessness, teach and learn, and finally turning the wheel of dharma. The only way to fully appreciate the reliefs is to circulate clockwise throughout going upwards towards nirvana (and I don’t mean Kurt Cobain).

After heading through a labyrinth of stalls designed to lead you out of Borobudur, there was a well-worth the wait museum, which gives some background to the construction of the monument. The price is included in the ticket.

On the short walk back, we stopped off at a local food haunt, and the taste can’t get any better than sustenance made lovingly by someone’s own hands. And then it was time for a quick wash, and catching a bus to central Yogyakarta’s bus terminal for the next stop.

I was hideously wary of the fact that my friends were reluctant to go to our destination. And losing my favourite red scarf that had travelled with me throughout the world, was another dampener. It was another bad omen on our journey through the Indonesian isles.

Pontianak, Indonesia: The Gateway to Hell

2012-07-18T10:23:00.001-07:00

Accommodation: After a lot of walking from the main bus terminal, we found a relatively cheap hell hole in a side street. And after one night, we moved to an upmarket hotel, because that is all you can do in this city (no offence to Pontianaks).

Places to see: Ummm. Not the best place for sightseeing. Especially as a woman. Get ready for hideous ogling and lude remarks.

Getting to and from Pontianak: Buses depart Kuching regional bus terminal for Pontianak via the Tebedu-Entikong border crossing daily at 7:45AM. RM45 adult 1 way. From Pontianak, buses depart daily at 9PM. Fare is Rp 140,000. It takes about 4/5 hours one way.

The original plan was to take a boat from Pontianak to Java for about half the price of a flight. But it being one of the most unstable seas, even with our own boat sinking before arrival, taking a flight from Kuching makes a lot more sense .

Transport: Walkable city, but a little bit dangerous I found walking as a woman. But that’s just me.

From Malaysia to Indonesia by bus

Okay, crossing the border into Indonesia via bus is an interesting experience. I can’t lie that it isn’t exactly a woman-friendly place, so expect a lot of extra sexist hassle unfortunately. Hence taking a plane directly to Java is a much safer and better idea. Lucky enough, my partner was travelling with us four girls which made it much less unbearable.

The border crossing was nothing like Malaysia. It took almost an hour for them to process a visa, mostly because they were staring at us girls, rummaging through our bags, and searching through our underwear (no lie!). Once they saw a glimpse of a man, they hurried the process immediately, and the process was finished within 10 minutes. Not a good start unfortunately.

Eventually we made it, completely befuzzled without any hotel or onward transport of getting out of the port.

It was even more unnerving when we found out that Pontianak means the undead vampire of a woman who died while during childbirth. Disguised as a beautiful woman, the Pontianak goes around murdering unwary men, harming pregnant woman and eating babies, but they can be controlled by plunging a nail into a hole in the back of their neck. The irony is that it was us women running away from weary men over there and we were desperately attempting to find a way out.

We had everything organised. We were only supposed to spend a night there and then head off the next morning. But as fate has it, not only had there been torrential downpours and massive delays in the Java sea, we would have to stay there for almost 3 days. Not a happy bunny.

After one night of spending in a very rundown but friendly hotel, we decided to treat ourselves to a nicer hotel, especially since we would have to stay there for a few days now.

And by the riverside we stayed. It was much more luxurious, waking up to the waters with sun shining on our petit dejeuner. But then we got the news. That we would be stuck in that godforsaken place for a lot longer than expected. Partially because we got wind that our boat had sunk, and it was blocking all other boats from entering the port. We were edging towards the fourth day and drastic measures needed to be taken.

First step was getting a full refund on our tickets for the sunken boat. None of this ‘Act of God’ clauses thank you very much. And buying a rather more expensive plane ticket to Yogyakarta on the island of Java. Flights are around £40-£75, especially when bought last minute.

Well we did get to check out the local ‘mall’ which did resemble a Western one. There were some cute market shops beside the area as well. And that’s about it.

I think Pontianak was the first city where I know I’ll never return to, but sure as hell will remember. The day we left, we heard on the radio that President Mubarak had been ousted from his Egyptian ‘throne’ and the Arab Spring was in full swing. It was a sobering thought while we were complaining about the city.

Beautiful Borneo: Baku National Park

2012-07-17T16:29:00.001-07:00

Borneo at Baku National Park as the sun sets.

Accommodation: Bako National Park on the island of Borneo, is in Sarawak, a state in East Malaysia. There were three types of accommodation available, had I been on my usual carefree, a dorm (RM15.90 per bed) would have sufficed. Alas, I took the slightly more expensive 'Lodge' option for RM53. As of July 2012: Adult single-entry to the park: RM20 Child/Senior single-entry: RM7. All of this can be arranged at the tourist office in Kuching.

Places to see: Well, it's the Borneo rain forest and jungle so rather self-explanatory. Not being the most athletic of people, I chose one of the lesser labour intensive treks. There are various options thankfully, depending on your level of fitness. I took the 45 minute Bukit Gondol trail which leads you to the highest point of the park. And not ending my hiking journey just there, I also took the 2 1/2 hour Tajor trek to see some beautiful waterfalls.

Nothing beats a night trek, or just a swim in the beach under the twilight moon though. Food and drink is pretty expensive there, so bring some supplies. And for god's sake, take adequate footwear and water for the hikes!

Getting to and from Bako National Park: From Kuching, take a taxi or Petra Jaya Bus No. 6 (RM1.50) to Kampung Bako (Bako Village). The journey takes approximately 45 minutes. Boats can be chartered (RM40 each way) at the National Parks Boat Ticketing Counter next to the jetty for the 30-minute boat ride to the Park HQ whilst registering your arrival at the Park Arrival Booth. The last bus back to Kuching leaves Kampung Bako at 5pm.

Transport: Apart from the boats to and from the park, unfortunately the only transport is your own two feet and well-built calve muscles.

Well, my memory is getting a little rusty these days, but it all started in a Petra bus heading towards the National Park headquarters. On the hour, every hour, and thankfully we were in time for the morning bus. After a casual 45 minutes, we arrived at the said destination, paid for our boat, twiddled our thumbs and hopped onto a motorised boat.

On arrival, we were greeted by an enormous monkey... head. And I don't mean a decapitated one, but one that seemed to be neatly carved out of the side of a cliff, resembling Mr King Kong himself. It was assurance that we were definitely in the right place - Borneo, the land of the amazing monkeys.

And it wasn't just lush, green hilltops and canopies looming above, it was golden shores, rain forest trees and a wild 'bearded boar' enticing us to the island of tropical breezes. This porky scared the living daylights out of me in the night however.

So without further delay, we checked into our beautiful rain forest lodge. And it is exactly what it is on the tin. Okay, don't expect running hot water and all those luxuries, but it was enough to get us by for 3 days. Besides the sea next door had enough water to bathe in and it wasn't yellow unlike the indoor plumbing.

As per usual, being a 'carefree' backpacker meant I had carelessly forgot to bring adequate footwear. So what should have been a relatively difficult hike, became a precarious one.

Past the handy man-made bridges came a network of tree roots and vines, webbed all across the side of a hill. Climbing in flip flops results in a lot of blisters, blood spots and bruised egos. So the prospect of five hours of this was a seriously worrying thought. After the first hurdle came straight but muddy plains and eventually more vines, so many a pause was taken during this trip.

At the end of long tunnel came a beautiful waterfall, which was perfect after drinking and sweating profusely, so drowning my puffy, red self in the blue waters was heaven. It was the walk back in the sunset that captured Borneo in all its glory. The sun beamed over the island, as if it was proud of its creation.

After a quick wash, nap and snack, a walk on the beach seemed like the apt thing to do. Miniature crabs moved sideways along the sand, leaving behind tiny holes. Some time passed, and everything on the horizon disappeared, leaving only a moonlight shimmer across the water. I was ready for a midnight splash, but definitely no more hikes. Especially since that creepy pig made another appearance that night, with his low grunts and beady eyes.

The next morning, I climbed to the highest point of the park. The vista was pretty spectacular, and thankfully there was a light spray making the walk a little more easier to manage.

And we couldn't leave the island without visiting its famous and endangered Proboscis monkeys. Its elongated nose is a sight worth waiting for. Apparently there's only around 150 left, hence I definitely wanted to see Borneo's indigenous species. Lucky for us, we spotted a whole family!

On the other hand, the cheeky macaques were all over the place, stealing food and the limelight. And then it was over, and I wanted to immediately return. Natural wonders such as Borneo are memories that are firmly ingrained into my psyche.

Colourful Kuching: Malaysia

2011-06-23T08:11:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: My Sarawak Travel Cafe Guesthouse was a bit of a life-saver during Chinese New Year, when Kuching was officially a ghost town. The dorms were clean and comfortable for an affordable price, the internet however was not. There was free brekkie consisting of bread, jam and hot drinks which was adequate; but information services were lacking. Wouldn't suggest it for couples, as the noise was unbelievable, and walls were incredibly thin. It was about 16 MYR (£4) for the dorm and a hefty 50 MYR (£12) for a double room. The dorm was worth the price, the double is the best you can get for the price. Berambih Lodge two doors down was quiter and comfortable, but again wasn't much for the same price. The laundry services were quite useful and the 'lobby' decor was really relaxed. Better for couples I think.

Places to See: Well, at first off I can say what NOT to recommend and that is the 'Women's Museum,' which might as well should have been called 'All the Minister's Wives' gallery. It had nothing of the splendour of Hanoi's Women's Museum that's for sure. But on the upside, there are plenty of relaxing spots to explore. Taking a local boat down Kuching's main river, the Sungai Sarawak is definitely worth the sunset view. There are also wonderful weekend markets on the southern edge of Jalan Satok, which provides a myriad of fresh, appetising food. There are also plenty of museums on offer, if you have the time to leisurely stroll. Kuching having an ethnically diverse population, the Sarawak Museum hosts a collection of cultural artefacts for the region's indigenous people. Similarly there are art and textiles museums all around. It generally is a lazy town, to enjoy a little bit of the finer things in life aka the marvellous food. But the main place to visit from Kuching is Bako National Park by far, which can be arranged at the Tourist Office in Kuching- remember to call in before to book accommodation.

Getting to and from Kuching: Okay, Kuching does not have many options in actually visiting the city, taking a plane from KL is the only choice for earlybird price of 80 MYR (AirAsia) otherwise it does double in price. Now depending if you want to head up to the province of Sabah, to visit Kota Kinabalu first or last, you can get a bus to and from with stop-off cities on the way. The express bus station on Jalan Penrissen, heads for longer distances, even to the Indonesian side of Borneo (Pontianak is the city) for 50 MYR, 9 hours though I would not recommend it at all- you will see why a few posts later. Bus 6 to Bako National Park leaves every hour from the open-air market.

Transport: There are taxis around, but if you have your sea legs at hand, then Kuching can be quite walkable. It isn't really designed for tourists, but there are taxis around that cost between 6 MYR to 10 MYR into town. From the airport, the taxi was 17 MYR. If you can figure out the bus system, then it is really cheap to get around. Again, boats are a great way to get around, for 15 MYR.

Arriving into Kuching in officially monsoon weather wasn't exactly the greatest welcome expected. And more so that it was Chinese New Year and so the town was deathly silent. Seeing the My Sarawak Travel Cafe, was like seeing water after weeks of dehydration. But seeing my dear friend from my travels in Cambodia was like seeing a fountain after walking through a desert. As a local Kuchinger, we were whisked away to Chinese New Year galore, aka meeting the extended family and being fed until we were obese. Just amazingly hospitable people, and the best way of experiencing a true New Year.

And after we were sufficiently stuffed, returning home (aka le dorm) to feel the full impact of the bloat was in order. But the night time was a whole other affair. With the expert in hand, the first monument we hailed was Kuching's slightly weird fascination with Cats. Yes, that's right- Cats. Probably because Kuching actually means 'Cat' and so all around town are rather peculiar giant statues of the feline creatures. (By the way there even is a Cat Museum which is just plain weird.) We were then reared into the first location of the night aka Chinese classy kareoke time. After a sing-song of Robbie Williams, Abba and Louis Armstrong later, we ended up in the Malaysian brassy kareoke next door.

It was like landing in the twilight zone only a few metres away from the origin of kareoke. Dancing go-go girls looking incredibly bored as they winded their hips in practically nothing but a handkerchief. All I kept thinking, my fem friends are going to kill me, as I attempted to flee for my life. Eventually the bored dancers jumped off stage, and it was time for us to make history and sing Bon Jovi in front of a bunch of gangster Malaysian people. Okay, so the singing was abysmal and the stares were frightening, especially as a man with sunglasses (it was dark, and night time) began to belt out 'Angels' by Robbie Williams a lot better than we did. It was definitely time to move especially as the police decided to swarm inside on some sort of raid.

And then the end of the night entailed clubbing to horrifically cheesy music, from 20 years ago and it was at that time I decided to bow out and sit with the older folk with a beer in hand. Problem was that by the time we reached our abode, the doors were locked tight. And with no one with an accessible mobile phone, chucking rocks and banging on the door became conventional for the next 20 minutes. Eventually, the poor, sleepy-eyed owners opened the door, and being especially English, we apologised profusely.

My friends headed off to Bako National Park in advance, whilst I wallowed in my headache and feeling generally exhausted- so this became my Sabbath day. Strolling around town was quite pleasant, except everything was still closed and trying find sustenance was impossible. Eventually, after being confronted by one of the giant Cat monuments, there resided a place to eat- phew. But today, we prepared to head to Bako National Park, aka the heart of the Borneo Jungle and I was excited beyond belief, despite weather warnings of being stranded on a boat to get there.

Skipping ahead after Bako, we returned to take that sunset boat ride downtown and take a glimpse into the Malaysian quarters which was like looking into a parallel world compared to the Chinese side. The houses were small and together, multi-coloured in a million hues and quite clearly economically less developed. But it was beautiful, and the people smiled and gestured kindly to us for visiting them.

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The Agoraphobic Backpacker

2011-06-10T06:07:00.000-07:00

I hadn’t officially been alone outside for years. I thought being confined in a bubble-wrapped existence within my haven of a bedroom for the rest of my life was a perfectly plausible way of living. Thinking that having a chaperone to and from college, as well as general contact with the outside world would be one I would be able to continue even into my twenties. Clearly, that did not happen.

This needed to be attacked with drastic measures, and not just baby steps in and out of the front door. This required an entirely different backdrop, language and culture in order to tackle this magnitude of isolation. I needed to tread quickly out of my comfort box before it swallowed me whole, and be in a place where open spaces and people would not be the only issue I had. So my first attempt to escape was in 2007, eight thousand miles away from drizzling London to the growing metropolis of Shanghai.

It was everything I had never imagined. Developed, boisterous businesses flourishing within neon lit skyscrapers were a distant thought. More so, were the people who I spent the majority of my time communicating through hand gestures and pigeon Mandarin. And though the results consisted of me being confined to my frozen apartment, feasting on Snicker bars; it was the first move towards breathing the polluted air of the real world. I was officially infected with the travel bug.

Although at every try of living abroad, I have continued the same pattern of being locked up within four walls, it is the experience of living a parallel life (as an agoraphobic) each time. Exactly what had changed then?

Well, for those of you out there surviving inside on a computer, similarly imprisoned within a container, the best and only way is to bite the bullet first time and make that leap across several oceans. Obviously, it’s not as simple as ‘just go outside’ especially when you are agoraphobic. It never is. However, wide open spaces tend to feel more daunting, when you are in the unfamiliar, no matter where you are.

Hence the most important way of not suffering that intense vulnerability or feeling nauseous and panicked is to PLAN. If you are bit like me, and unable to enjoy spontaneous walks to “view the vista” or “clear your head,” then the handiest tip is to map out every part of your trip, including charting any ‘impulsive walks.’ By using specific targets during your sightseeing and be able to plot your journey back to your safe haven, you focus away from the feeling of falling. It is one of those ‘pinch your nose and eat it moments,’ travelling thousands of miles away, but you realise that you don’t need to rely on a crutch for the rest of your life. Therefore, I have devised the Agoraphobic Travel Cheat Sheet:

It can be filled out something like this:

And yes it may be a bit laborious, but you can thank it later when you feel a little lost. Bringing a sense of direction into your travel is always essential for those who require a safety net as large as your home. Or the option could be to try something closer to home, a site in your own city perhaps that you desperately want to see. Still, the main prerequisite for an agoraphobic traveller is that you feel comfortable and safe enough to want to make that change in your life. A support, aka a friend on the other line, or even a travelling companion can always be useful.

There are always those occasions where you sense the world is clearly engulfing you, striking pure fear down through your spine, especially at the most inappropriate of times. At this point, sitting down in one spot, looking down and most significantly breathing is key to stopping a panic attack. Inhale everything that surrounds you, including the wonderful views that you get to experience in a lifetime. And just hold on to that thought.

Evidently, this is not a long-term solution, but it is one that can give a slight amount of confidence to be able to move past this gruelling phobia in the future. Agoraphobia usually stems from deep-rooted issues that trigger panic when facing open spaces and the outside world. And though it is not a ‘cure,’ it has been my treatment in enjoying the most beautiful moments in life.

(I apologise to all those who I have cancelled seeing over the years!)

Candescent Kuala Lumpur: Malaysia

2011-06-09T17:10:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Okay so I wasn't exactly taking the 'cheap' option here, but if you are a travelling duo, then the price is usually affordable. Original backpacking place we tried out was relatively, not hugely cheap and pretty much everything fell apart there, including the beds and the doors. So we ran opposite to Hotel Nan Yeang, which was clean, central and pretty luxurious compared to the rest of the places we had stayed. Although the bathroom is shared, again there's a good shower. It is a Chinese run hotel, a bonus for me to practice my Mandarin. We payed about £5 each per night. Not as cheap as we hoped, but they have good information and airport taxi service.

Places to See: Apart from the obvious Petronas Towers that overlook the city and a hefty entrance fee (depends which point you see, ranges from 15MYR-38MYR), there is also the Menara Kuala Lumpur, which is equally gigantic and you get to see the Petronas Towers from there. The entrance fee is a little less, but not a huge difference and you need to get to a park and have the option of climbing up to the tower or get a free shuttle at the entrance. The time we went clashed with various festivals, also reflecting the multitude of ethnicities that live in Malaysia. Batu Caves is 13km north of the city and reached by bus 69 (1.20MYR) from Medan Pasar, Chinatown. The admission is free and the temple cave is guarded by the largest Murga (Hindu Shiva statue) in the world. Thean Hou temple was hosting its annual Chinese New Year festivities, a little weird and wacky with hundreds of Chinese people snapping photos, not so spiritual. There are plenty of little snack eateries lining the temple, alongside souvenir shops as well as shows to entertain for free. Catch a good dragon dance here for the festivities. There is a free bus that goes there from Hotel Midah in Kg Attap and KL Sentral during the new year. Otherwise just enjoy the plentiful food offered in Chinatown and Little India.

Getting to and from Kuala Lumpur: So I actually took a detour and had to go from Bangkok, as there are regular sleeper train services to Butterworth (a city on the border of Malaysia) for about £25, which you can book online in advance or buy at the station. You can continue further to Singapore as well. But the best thing is, you can get through the border in a matter of minutes. All they need to see is a valid passport. But make sure to take your bags and then you will be allocated back to some seats near the front carriage (as the train separates!) It is a long journey, around 27 hours so make sure you have enough snacks and entertainment. Once you get to Butterworth, take a bus that costs 30 MYR (follow the signs to the bus station) for about 5 hours to KL. The taxi to the main backpackers district (Jalan Sultan) is about 15MYR. They also have intercity railway named the KTM going to Singapore and Bangkok, and other cities in the Malaysian Peninsula.

Transport: KL's transport system is pretty well-established and convenient. Just buy coin tokens to get around on the metro, one of the longest automated driverless metro systems in the world, the Kelana Jaya Line (don't worry, it doesn't resemble The Simpson's Monorail). They also have a similar Oyster (Touch n Go) system if you are staying for a long period of time. Single fares are around 0.37 MYR.

A 27 hour journey of twiddling thumbs, charades and cards, as well as one border crossing equals ending up in a tiny town named Butterworth. The name was a bit suspect I must admit, and so we headed out of there within the hour, catching a bus to the main city Kuala Lumpur. It was another humdrum of a city, packed with skyscraper banks and sparkling shopping malls. Not really what I had in mind, and so we ended up in the other end of the spectrum and town aka Chinatown.

The red lights illuminated the rowdy, bustling crowd as well as the small snack stalls lining up Jalan Sultan. And the original backpacker's hostel just seemed too dilapidated after 32 hours of travelling. Hence a dash across the road, and voila, a slightly more upmarket room and an adequate, horizontal bed. It was luxury compared to being cramped up on a sleeper train. After an ample-sized meal, it was time for beddy bye byes.

The metro was a smooth engagement as we headed to KL's main sightseeing spot aka the Petronas Towers. And it was capitalism in phallic form, so was quite glad that it was filled that day. Instead we went to the secondary rising tower, the Menara Kuala Lumpur- says it all really. Except the only affinity it had with a menara was the perpendicular form. It paralled our own BT Tower in London, with its flash appearance and metropolitan atrium. For some bizarre reason, attached to the structure was a variety of animals ranging from horses to monkey in the park's zoo. Similarly, the views were considerably eerie, as storm clouds began to approach the horizon. An eclipse alien-like shape shrouded the city, with only flecks of sunlight beaming down rays across certain buildings. And we were amongst the clouds at that height.

Getting sufficiently soaked on the way back was customary having seen the tempest brewing from the tower. Monsoon season was well on track for Malaysian climes. We were fortunate with the skies the next day when we headed to the Batu Caves, 13 km north of KL. Eventually we stumbled over a cliff side with a mammoth sized golden Shiva statue guarding the entrance to this religious site. Hundreds of worshippers climbed the steep stairs surrounded by cunning little monkeys, attempting to steal anything detachable. Neighbouring the pesky but adorable monkeys as well as general crowd was filming for what seemed to be a Sri Lankan movie. A cheesy looking hero peddled up and down the stairs, miming and dancing in a Hawaiian shirt; being laughed at and admired, all at the same time.

Inside was a whole other kettle of fish. A swarm of Hindu prayers echoed through the abyss, and statues encompassed several corners of the cave. It was time for another Hindu epic explanation to those who seemed a little clueless to these weaponed figures, (again, thanks mum for those nightly stories.) Definitely a good place for a South Indian curry.

At night time, you can catch Pasar Malam (night market) in Chinatown, as well as the Central market next door to it. Downtown is a vibrant and colourful kind of habitat, away from the money-hungry feel of the Petronas Towers. And the colours are extended to Thean Hou, an amusement park of a shrine, but no less exhuberant. People might expect a spiritual haven to escape to, but end up in a flashing jungle. The camera lenses glared at the main arena, desperate to make an impression with incense sticks and prayers. So don't expect the Dalai Lama to pass by any time here.

Thean Hou is a little difficult to get to if you don't happen to be amidst the festivities, so maybe not something to go out of your way for. Instead, on the way to Hotel Midah from Chinatown, is the Chan See Shu Yuen temple; the clan house (kongsi) of the Yuen family. It is the largest and oldest in KL, with the present version completed in 1906. A well-preserved family heirloom for all to be inspired by.

Incredible Inle: Myanmar

2011-06-09T13:47:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: Four Sisters Inn was a little gem off the beaten track, and right by the magnificent Inle Lake. Rooms around a garden were around $5- $6 for a simple single room, pretty basic. There is also breakfast with pancake and deals with boats, I paid around $10 for a trip around the lake and local fishing villages, although opted out of a few factories, hill tribe ogling within the package. Interesting dining spot sometimes with traditional music instruments. May need to book in advance, as it is a popular little spot.

Places to See: Of course Inle Lake in itself along with all of the surrounding fishing villages. Make sure to negotiate a good boat trip, as they would like to take you to factories and other places not specified on the itinerary on commission. You are looking at about $10-$15 for a half/ full day boat trip. Apart from this, you can also catch a free puppet show usually starts around 7pm. It is a donation-only basis, and definitely a good cause, keeping traditional arts alive in Burma. It is rather cold up in the north, especially around the lake so wrap up warm.

Getting to and from Inle Lake (Nyaungshwe or Heho Airport): Okay, there are two options: 1. In order to avoid giving money directly to 'state-funded' institutions, taking a bus is the most 'spectacular' way of getting here, as well as a sure-fine way of getting majorly ill. The minibus from Bagan costs around $10 (11,000 Kyats) and you spend 12 hours of hell cramped up on top of a wooden bench and blaring wind- as there is no car door. However, it really depends on how passionately you want to oppose the regime, sometimes you have to just invest in a flight. 2. If you could take the more expensive option, its about $60 one way to Heho airport, from which you need to take a taxi into the town. Four Sisters Inn have their own driver which you can tell in advance, however there is a fee for getting into town and taxis at the airport charge extortionate prices.

Transport: Well the name says it all. Inle Lake is best seen by boat, however the town itself is fairly small and easy to walk around. There is a main road that most of the side roads are connected to, using the standard grid system layout.

After quietly 'missing' my minibus to Inle Lake- aka I jumped on in a rush, realised I had forgotten most of my valuables and in a daze figured that this was on a road to hell - I took a flight the following day with guilty pangs and reached there within the hour. On the flight was a veteran traveller, a middle-aged American man, and also an established tour guide escorting a group of very stereotypical elderly Americans.

He knew the country like the back of his palms, having already travelled around Myanmar 14 times, so a few tips were much needed. He spoke about the fact that this particular group didn't resemble anything like the previous groups in his heyday. Trekking through the mountainous regions of Inle was nothing like what he had planned for this group, attired in sweat pants, plimsoles and golf caps. Rather a nice relaxing tour, staying around the lake and enjoying the fresh air. However, I had a rather less fancy affair, and a cheap guesthouse was what I had in the cards.

I reached Heho Airport finally realising I hadn't quite informed the hotel of when I was coming due to the problematic connections between the cities. So letting them know as I reached meant I had an hour or so to wait at the airport, in which time plenty of Burmese men and elderly Korean tourists came to ogle at the odd little Indian woman sitting with a giant orange rucksack and hoodie, listening to her MP3 player. Eventually, two congenial men approached stating that they here to take me to Four Sisters Inn, one being the other brother to the siblings. The conversation on the way, turned to family talk as he explained one of the four sisters was now abroad, married to German man. And the guesthouse certainly reflected the family feel when I was greeted by 3 generations of Inle heritage.

After sufficiently settling in, I headed out to the lush lake in a traditional canoe boat fully equipped with motor (otherwise it would have taken more than a day.) Whilst witnessing the mountainous marvel reflected in the opaque, still waters, we conveniently stopped midway in front of a local fisherman. The process included a large net, a punting stick and a hardy man dunking these into the water in order to retrieve a variety of speckled fish. And though it was all part of the Inle itinerary, it was a wonderful sight to behold, and just the beginning of the fishing journey. Further down the line came the villages and the smiling children playing upon petite boats and houses floating upon the lake. Customarily, I was lead to a factory, but one that it unusually produced material goods out of lotus flower fibres.

I took the opportunity to feed my curiousity, so I dabbled around to see how these wonderful scarves, bags and other material goods were made. I also refused to fall for any touristic exploits and quickly headed to a point beside the lake in order to breathe in the breathtaking view. And although the Inle itinerary consisted of a fair few commissioned locations, I opted out of ogling hill tribes and taking in any more factories, certain that I would not spend any more of my last few dollars. Instead, whizzing back and having the cool, refreshing spray from the opaque lake was much more to my taste and to my sanity (having slept and hour out of 24).

The hotel was welcoming, specifically the bed and as my head drifted off to dream world, I planned my next trip to a traditional puppet show, a dying art in Myanmar. A spot of light dinner, and I was on my way at 7pm to catch a show in half an hour. The Aung Puppet Show is definitely worth a mention. As I sat with the puppet master drinking tea, he explained as he pointed to a picture of an elderly chap, that his grandfather was a legendary puppet master. Three generations had been taught the fine art of puppetry,but unfortunately he exclaimed, "Children just want to watch TV now, and so we struggle to entertain." I nodded in agreement, as I sat alone on the audience bench. The master ushered to people outside to join his donation-based theatre, but alas, their reluctance was seen on the face and so they managed to flee.

What they missed was a chance to meet Burmese at its best and at its original. All the wooden marionettes featured in the show were carefully crafted by Aung, the master who also sadly has to moonlight in other services in order to keep his puppet show alive. He explained that thanks to the Government, traditional arts are still continued due to their nationalistic patriotism by nature. And so, he attends an annual nationwide puppet competition, keeping him on top of his game. His travelling family were established in Yangon and Bagan, when the show was at its pinnacle, lead by Grandfather Aung. But over the years, it had considerably grown smaller in size, hence being placed on a side street in a quiet little town. It made me even more passionate to see it, and so I eagerly awaited to be doused in culture.

My favourite puppet resembled a small Pinocchio-like marionette that was created to play football, and so it had almost 20-30 different strings being controlled at one point. The puppet master's hands slightly visible from the top, was moving at lightening speed, delicately moving each one to produce an almost human-like movement. I was enlightened that's for sure. However, being stupid enough to 'miss' my minibus meant I had the most limited time in Inle, and so I was off like a shot in the early dawn. But not before watching the wonderful sun rise of the beautiful Inle.

Breathtaking Bagan: Burma/Myanmar

2011-06-09T08:11:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: If you choose to take the bus to Bagan and arrive at 3am, then it may be an idea to take the hotels on commission by the horse and cart (H and C) drivers who come to pick up travellers at that time. If shared, you can find better deals. The bus will stop at Nyaung U, and you will be able to find something easily. Eden Motel was a favourite with the LP, ranging from $5 to $10.

Places to see: The 4,000 temples of Bagan. Not all of course, but Old Bagan hosts the most spectacular shrines. Though Dhammayangyi Pahto (Central Plain) a colossal red brick temple and Ananda Pahto (Northern Plain) are the finest preserved temples. Best is to watch the sun rise and set over the wonderous city. Also catch a glimpse of the traditional Burmese markets.

Getting to and from Bagan: The cheapest and most non-exploitative mode of transport to Bagan is via bus for about $10-$15, 12 hours. You will need to keep your passport at hand when entering into Bagan, to buy an entrance ticket for the UNESCO site- even at three in the morning.

Transport: When travelling around the wonders that is Bagan, the best options is to either share a H and C (seems to be the national transport) for about K10,000 ($9 for the day). But if you're a bit more nature-friendly, than bicycles are available all round for less than a dollar a day.

Strolling into Bagan at 3am, earlier than expected was a surprise for SE Asian timing standards. It was as comfortable as a bus should be, again unexpected for the apparently 'backwards' Burmese. On the ready were what seemed to be chariot drivers waiting in the dawn light; but ended up being H and C drivers, a little less spectacular than my imagination. However, they were the kindest, most sincere people; and we were welcomed by their presence as we approached in the dark.

Obviously rewarded with a miniscule commission, we were ushered into a hotel nearby the station. Although, at that time of night I didn't really mind, as I appreciated any more sleep possible especially with a 8am morning start. The plan was to trek through the boundless plains of Bagan, exploring its endless streams of ancient temples. So geared with the LP Bible, a water bottle as well as a digital camera, off we set, sleepy-eyed through the dusty tracks via H and C. The driver, a young man with a huge amount of knowledge drove us through Nyaung U, Old Bagan as well as the Central Plains, capturing the best of the 4,000 shrines still standing in Bagan today. Though I am less convinced, according to local know-how, in reality there were approximately 40,000 Buddhist temples for the King before numerous amounts of natural disasters wiped them off the face of Myanmar.

Despite the numerous disasters that occurred in this country, standing in awe of history seemed to wash away those thoughts and feelings. The red brick structures were scattered throughout the city as if all that existed within these realms were the calm, meditative Buddha statues found hidden inside each of the temples. It was tranquil and sincere, with very few tourists ready to turn into a consumer venture.

Although there were local souvenir vendors at each temple, it seemed to be an honest living and I got to talking with a one of the sellers. I was curious to why the vendor had selected the most uninspiring spot at the temple, almost impossible to sell any of his wonderful handmade canvas paintings. I discovered that he was allocated there, and was unable to move anywhere else for consumer purposes earning a living- another perk to having a military regime rule a country. Unhappy with his situation, he quietly ushered me to a corner to speak about the general misery faced by local people. Definitely an enlightening conversation.

Alongside my travel buddies, a young Korean woman with ounces of travel knowledge and a hilarious Thai hotel manager, who was duped several times into buying pointless souvenirs; we took hundreds of snaps (mainly of the posing Thai man), but none that could actually capture the splendour. By the time the sun decided to make a quick get-away, we had visited over 12 temples, and we were officially 'templed out.' But not before catching a glimpse of it disappearing into the Bagan plains, from one of the highest temple points. The city glowed and basqued in the warm red sun, leaving only a sillouhette of the 4,000 temples. And though at this point, all the tourists began emerging from their hiding spots to do the same, it took nothing away from the vista.

The next morning consisted of the wonderful smells of the local market place in Nyaung U. From vegetables to local attire, the markets hosted a bountiful amount of Burmese booty. It was the smiles that made me buy something and not the general pushing and shoving. After a full day of templing, I decided to take it slower today, and after about half an hour, I spotted a little internet cafe cleverly disguised as a 7/11. The late afternoon sun was enough to make me drowsy-eyed, but instead I hopped on the back of a bicycle and repeated the day before. The night time was one that I literally forgot after several drinks, hence missing my 5am minibus of hell to Inle Lake. It was fate.

Untouchable Utopia: Yangon, Myanmar

2011-06-09T04:20:00.000-07:00

Accommodation:
Motherland Inn 2- Free pickup from airport, able to book buses/flights, currency exchange from dollars; fan, shared bathroom- $13 was $10 at the time. Dorm rooms also available for $8

Places to See: Shwedagon Pagoda can be seen via taxi for $2-$5 or you could attempt to walk however you may need a map, Bogyoke Aung San Market, People's Square Park, not to mention her (Aung San's house)

Getting to and from Yangon: From Bangkok, via AirAsia from £40

Transport: Walkable mostly, otherwise taxis are relatively cheap

Well, I finally made it to the solo leg of my trip aka venturing through the relatively untouched lands of Myanmar/ Burma via Bangkok. So I was constantly warned about a militant government, censorship and general guerrilla behaviour; I took it in my stride to prove that there was more to this small country. As I watched the desolate earth from the plane, I noticed hundreds of glimmering pagodas outlining the horizon, one in particular was the Shwedagon Pagoda- Myanmar's largest Buddhist Temple. The sun reflected into several directions, bouncing off the gold leafed structures as we (several other travellers) finally touched ground level. Out to meet us were several happy staff members from Motherland Inn 2, ready to whisk away a group of tourists in a rather broken down minivan. Thoughts of Mongolia started creeping in, but thankfully the journey lasted half an hour and not 16 hours.

Eventually I made it to the happy haven of Motherland Inn, greeted by a group of smiling faces painted with their traditional wooden sun screen. Everything was conveniently arranged within half an hour. A room, money exhange, buses, flights (however much I protested against it) and further accommodation on the way back despite all evidence to the contrary by various news mediums. Yangon already seemed to be a welcoming, congenial town- but I guess it wasn't them however we were worried about. After a 3 hour nap from a relatively early start, I ventured off through the dusty streets of Myanmar, getting customarily lost in 10 minutes. But this wasn't Vietnam, and there seemed to be less charm to foreign tourists by the local authorities. Surrounded by armed military, certain areas throughout the city were closed off, and an abrupt foot soldier halted us immediately as we realised we had taken a wrong turn.

He ushered us towards the right direction of the pagodas, located centrally. I think being foreign still had its perks even in an authoritarian oppressive country such as Myanmar. So first encounter with the military, and phew we had made it completely intact. On our way, it was unexpected to see a mishmash of several faiths and cultures. If it wasn't monks trailing along the pavements, there were mosques, churches and various other religious areas. The people resembled both South Asians and Eastern people, including wearing their traditional attires. They smiled and contently gestured as we walked for miled on end through Yangon.

The Lonely Planet map was quietly deceptive, and what should have been a 20 minute walk ended up with us roaming around for an hour or so, still without reaching our final destination. The spot we were so desperately trying to head to apparently had amazing night views of city, including of the mammoth sized Shwedagon Pagoda. I say 'night' views, because we were well shot of the dusky sunset by the time we had arrived. Succumbing to a taxi ride wasn't in the itinerary, but with our desperately lacking sense of direction, it was essential.

It was the first glimpse of Myanmar's ambivalent circumstances, as I gazed upon the glittering pagoda from what seemed to be a foreign five star restaurant, on top of a skyscraper. Confused? So was I. It took literally one beer to head out of the location, too befuddled by what I had experienced. I kept my feet firmly on the ground, as we went in search of the next destination- something that supposedly resembled a local Burmese bar. Having kept schtum about it being by birthday the entire time, I finally blurted out that it was- which seemed even a better reason to have a drink and celebrate. Despite all our wanderings about, we were officially lost and starving by this point. So what was local Burmese cuisine? It truly reflected the cultural mixed heritages that had grown to live in the country. Bordering Bangladesh, India, as well as China, the food was an amalgamation of all countries surrounding the lands.

The first meal was unforgettable. It resembled my days of entering the local fooderies in Kolkata, except this was Yangon. For a mere $2, out came a thali (large steel plate) with oodles of different kinds of curries, vegetables, rice, lentils- did I mention the free refills? Satisfied like I had died and gone to heaven, we were still determined to make our way for a drink. And what did we see to our disbelief? An Irish Pub carefully placed under the drinks section of the Lonely Planet. That was absolutely where we heading to next. So it's safe to say, I spent my 23rd birthday in an Irish Pub in Myanmar. Awesome. Though it wasn't as grimy as we would have imagined. Clearly the local Burmese have a rather upmarket view of what an Irish pub entails.

After being sufficiently hungover I headed to Bagan the next day. However, a week later or so, I returned for one day to Yangon in order to truly experience the goliath pagoda. Shwedagon consists of 88 mini golden temples in its construct, not to mention hundreds of Buddha statues and followers aimlessly roaming around the giant complex. My eyes are still blinded by the sheer amount of gold paint used on the temples that's for sure.

Chummy Chiang Mai, Thailand

2011-06-08T09:57:00.000-07:00

Accommodation:
Eagle House - 170- 200baht Double room (hot shower, fan toilet)

Places to See: Doi Suthep, Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, Trekking

Getting to and from Bangkok: (800/500baht) 1st and second class train- 13hours. 490 baht government bus 12 hours.

Transport: Walkable town, saungtheauw to Doi Suthep 50-100 baht each (go in group 4 or more to get it cheaper!)

After a considerably long 13 hour ride on a train, we reached our destination whilst the sun was still rising. Aligning the Northern Thailand station, were transport touts and tour touts inching their way just to get a glimpse of a foreign tourist. If it wasn’t ‘I can take you wherever you want tomorrow,’ it was ‘Here are our best trekking tours to offer.’ The mayhem had already begun, and I hadn’t even had my morning coffee and stretch at that point.

It was a slightly quieter affair then the humdrum of Bangkok, but equally packed with tourists. However the quaint streets, and the golden temples had a more tranquil atmosphere, an easy walkable town I thought, well that was before the walking had actually begun. After about an hour of strolling aimlessly, trying to find a cheap hostel with our mammoth rucksacks, I collapsed into a corner and decided my stomach needing sustenance was more important right then. So as the other intrepid travellers ventured around to find a hostel, I tucked into a nice coffee and scrambled eggs (Already, western food I know.) It was my chance to finally have a proper Western breakfast after 4/5 months of dumplings and noodles, so I savoured and devoured it within an instant.

The girls returned with a grin on their faces. Victory had been achieved and we had found an adequate hostel namely Eagle House, just off the beaten track. So after another 15 minute stroll with our babies on our backs, we checked into the very tropical-looking Eagle House, fit with swaying trees on a beautiful terrace. So after washing the 13 hours of train dirt under a warm shower, the start of what seemed to be an epic trail began. Through the streets of Chiang Mai we ironically searched for an adequate trek to embark upon.

What seemed to be an entire day of ‘umming’ and ‘ahhing’ and general indecisiveness, we ended up with a cold beer in our hands under the intense Thai heat. One being eco-friendly and didn’t want to parade an Elephant around in it’s own shame; the other having already extensively canooed around; and a broad consensus of not wanting to ogle at hill-tribes meant that we ended up with a big fat zero of a tour. So imagine 3 days of frustration.

The night consisted of seeing the ‘night market,’ which was preceded by a rather sleazy street filled with bars made for old foreign men and young local girls, and a lot of screaming by sellers. So we embraced the Rasta Rooftop bar, with chilled low tables and seats and a psychedelic environment. It was there we met two fellow travellers who accompanied us throughout the night, eating chocolate ice cream, having munchies, watching the fire entertainment as well ending the night at 7am by playing pool. I being miserable at any kind of sports in general, I was given much assistance by the barman, who taught me at least to be able to pot the white ball against another one.

Next day was a hellish one, with minimum sleep we decided to head to Doi Suthep, overlooking the city. The half an hour steep climb up a hill via Saungtheauw made me realise that biking it in that frame may have near what killed us, so I thanked my fellow friends for shaking me to my senses. It was cool, approaching sunset yet was still packed with Thai tourists inappropriately taking photos in the middle of the temple. But as the sun shone on the golden stupa, it illuminated the magical spherical top and gave us all a sense of spiritual awe.

Temple fever soon kicked in after the third day, as we managed to visit a million symmetrical stupas and officially die under the heat. Catching numerous modern monks watching a football match at one point was definitely a highlight and a local cook describing a Buddha statue as ‘happy Buddha, sad Buddha’ whilst acting it out in full still gets me rolling on the floor. After a substantial amount of tea and beer, it was off back to Bangkok and obtaining my Burmese visa woohoo!

Bustling Bangkok, Thailand

2011-06-08T08:03:00.000-07:00

Accommodation:
Tavee Guesthouse- 350baht Double room
Apple 2 Guesthouse- 250baht Double, 180baht Single, 100baht Dorm

Places to See: Chatuchak Weekend Market, Floating Market, Chinatown, Canal boats, Wat Pho, National Museum,Grand Palace

Plane from China: Not for the budget traveller!

Transport: Ferry from Khao San to South- (appx.) 15baht, Canal boat to MBK Shopping Centre- 9baht

Bangkok is everything that you hear in those legends passed down from starry-eyed hippy backpackers crossing SE Asia. From the bold to the brash, Khao San Road epitomises the Thai ‘Red light’ district that the oh so noble foreigners tend to chase after.

On the upside, taking a nice ferry boat as means of getting around Bangkok not only suggests travelling around for a bargain price of 15baht, but you get to witness the spectacular sunsets over Nam Mae Chao Phraya (the river going through the city.)

With tour companies aligning the streets of Bangkok, it is easy to get hypnotised and swept away. But it is a good place to bargain a good tour or in my case, a Thai cooking lesson; a must in SE Asian cuisine. From Massaman curry to Green curry, as well as a trip to the local market picking your own produce for the session: its an appetising way to spend a morning or a whole day. Just remember to keep the Fish sauce at hand, as it is literally the staple ingredient of most Thai food. Expect prices to be between $15 to $20 for a reasonable course.

One thing I realised over the course of this adventure is- always travel solo or with ONE other person. You will notice, compared to the usual extensively planned trips and data I provide over one year- this trip is seriously lagging. These were the intended places to visit, but unfortunately getting bogged down with technicalities meant that I have spectacularly avoided doing anything remotely productive.

Supreme Siem Reap: Cambodia

2011-06-07T23:57:00.000-07:00

Accommodation: DMS Angkor Villa (Not Recommended!) $6 per night single ensuite

Bus: Same as from Phnom Penh, 6 hours

Places to Visit: Angkor Wat, Angkor National Museum, Massage

By this point it was time to head to my next destination (thankfully)- Siem Reap, a cultural rendevous for sure. After being frozen from the 6 hours bus journey, with A/C on full blast, I hopped off heading to my hotel. Now when I arrived, they told me I was non-existent, though my email confirming my booking said otherwise. This gave them enough time to send me to their 'other' guesthouse, this other being owned by the father. Surprise surprise.

To be once again greeted by an annoying Cambodian became customary, the receptionist within one breath asked me out for a drink and marriage. I never came out of my room ever again, well almost. At about 8am, I headed to Cambodia's 'pride and joy,' the Angkor Temples, one of the Seven wonders of the ancient world. Cool.

I took a motorbike (clearly I wasn't driving) to the temples, this being 1000 sq km, so I wasn't going to walk it. First stop was Angkor Wat, one of the main structures. And they weren't joking when they said it was big. I did a rather rushed 1 hour walkaround, having doubled on myself walking around it and having one day to see as much as I could. There were epic battle scenes from Hindu mythology, the Mahabharat, the Ramayana, the churning of the milk- it was all there engraved in elaborate detail. It was times like this I thanked my nightly religious story from my mother, it all made sense. A fair few lost tourists ogled the engravings having no idea what it was, that was when I stepped in being an amateur tour guide. I should have totally asked for money.

Next was a quiet temple up a large hill, Phnom Bakheng. People had told me it was busy during sunset, but it was completely empty when I got there! Fabulous, can't beat the view. There were hot air balloons parallel to the hill, and the sun raged on the temple of Shiva. The next must have been my favourite. Angkor Thom was a structure of humungous stone Buddhist and Hindu faces, carved within it. Now you have to imagine, these were constructed in the 12th century by some of the Hindu kings who had conquered South East Asia, epic does not cut it. The last one I could manage was the 'famous' one. Ta Prohm had been used for many film shootings including Tomb Raider, haha. It was quite eerie, especially as the tree roots enveloped the structure so it made it slightly shadier than the other temples.

By this point I died, and ended up back at my hotel to eat. The heat was pretty intense, and like a damsel in distress, I swooned. The nighttime was slightly more unexpected. My friend managed to find me despite having moved hotels, so I was pretty surprised to hear a knock on my hotel door. Dinner was next on the agenda. I was all up for an outdoor barbeque, that was until she put some crocodile meat on it and I cringed. Then drinks was on the menu, at a bar that had fire limbo and fire poy by a man who kept burning himself :)

I was thrilled to have a relaxed last day off. So I leisurely woke up to end up in the National Museum of Siem Reap. It was basically a museum dedicated to the Angkor temples, so I was appreciative of the fact I had some insight into it. A few hours there, and then I headed to an art gallery. By this point, I had gotten a little bored of three hours gazing at objexts. So a masage was definitely in order. Once again, the night ended with drinks and the night market. The bar serving $1 cocktails meant we were in there like a shot (excuse the pun). The fact that the barmen were getting drunk on shift meant it was time to take full advantage. It ended with free drinks and the bar man giving us permission to dress him like a woman aka he had make up galore on.

Now heres the clincher...I dropped of my friend, as the three of us clung onto a motorbike. Next thing I remember was the driver swerving to avoid an oncoming collision, with another motorbike- then being clipped, or rather hit full on by the bike. The idiot driver didn't even realise, dropped me off at the hotel and drove off. So I went to the concierge, asking for some medical help. He drowsily replied 'we can't help you,' and fell back asleep. It was time for spiteful revenge. In front of him was my expense page, this being all the services used at the hotel that was noted down, ready to be paid whilst I checked out. It was pretty easy to take as he snored away, and I burnt the blasted thing. Three days of free food, wahey! And it worked like a charm. On the downside, my arm and knee throbbed like a pulsating heart. And they bulged as I took the bus back to Phnom Penh. Thankfully, they heal slowly...

So after one night in Phnom Penh...my travels came to an end. And then back to -15 C in Beijing, a living freezer. One word to sum it all up- AWESOME, wouldn't change a thing. Met good people, ate good food and got a tan. Now time to go home!!!