Beautiful Birds

'Problem' parakeets can be shot

2010-08-24T07:15:00.000-07:00

People will be able to shoot parakeets from next year without a licence, a wildlife watchdog has ruled.

Around 44,000 parakeets are in the UK, with 90% living in London - but they can threaten smaller birds, crops and public safety, the watchdog says.

The move gives parakeets the same legal status as pigeons, crows and magpies.

A Natural England spokesman said: "They are still a protected species but there will be some circumstances where people can take measures to control them."

Originally from the Himalayas, the UK's population of red-beaked emerald green parakeets is growing at an estimated rate of 30% per year.

Theories as to how the exotic birds came to make their home here include the urban legend that they escaped from a container at Heathrow airport during filming of The African Queen in 1951.

Parakeets have increased in density around south-east England, especially Heathrow, Kew, Richmond, Middlesex and Surrey.

People wanting to kill the birds to control their numbers must currently apply for a "personal licence" from Natural England.

TREATMENT OF HEATSTROKE IN PARROTS

2010-06-29T09:57:00.000-07:00

Hello Friends

Today I am posting about how to keep your birds cool in summer season.Mostly people in

pakistan with pet birds are facing heat stroke problem in this seoson.So i am posting

heat stroke solution for helping my friends in Pakistan.

As birds have no sweat glands they keep them cool by respiration with their mouth and by opening

their wings during respiration for the cooling of their wing web.Pick a bird who is suffering from heat stroke

see under their wing where there are no feathers.Put your finger on this part and feel and you will

see that this area will be very hot to the touch as if the bird is running from fever.He is suffering

from heat stroke and needs help.

The first thing you need to do is clean the wing web(as i told u before in the upper portion abt

wing web)This is an area of skin that enables a bird to cool itself.As the dirt under their wings

will prevent your bird from being able to cool down.

Then proceed right to a bucket of cool water and dip him in it and squeezing the cool water

onto the skin under each wing.Do this several times on each side and then take the bird out and place

him on a cool cloth sit there for few minutes.When the bird stop fussing and had decided

that this isn't a bad thing after all,then hold him and dip the bottom half of his body

into the bucket of cool water.Dont bring him out leave him dripping.

The next thing you need to do is to make sure that his housing has ventilation.You need air

flow during hot weather in the cage.It helps your bird to cool themselve.You can also use desert cooler

for cooling your birds but desert cooler creates too much humidity in indoor cage and it helps

in the growth of bacteria so you can use dettol in the water of your desert cooler.Spray your birds twice a day with cool water.

(AS I AM USING THIS METHOD FOR MY PARROTS) If you have better solution please post.

FOR FURTHER INFO COMMENT ON THIS POST

Advise me if i am WRONG

By,

Administrator

Proventricular Dilation Disease PDD

2010-06-27T06:45:00.000-07:00

PDD (Proventricular Dilation disease)

PDS (Proventricular Dilation Syndrome)

Psittacine Wasting Disease

Macaw Wasting disease

These are some of the names used for this devastating disease, fortunately its still rare in aviaries, and rarer still in single bird homes.
The incubation period for the spread of this disease between birds is still not clear and reports of between a few months to a few years has been indicated.
Thought to be a virus that attacks the Proventricular, central nervous system and sometimes the intestinal tract, its very difficult to make a 100% diagnosis without exploratory surgery.
It can also be confused with other ailments as symptoms are similar, such as mega bacteria, heavy metal poisoning, E. coli, and Candida to name a few, as said before usually surgery (biopsy) of the Proventriculus is required.

This disease mainly infects psittacines, mostly Greys and Macaws but any psittacine is susceptible, symptoms of PDD is usually commenced with regurgitation/vomiting, a lethargic bird, looks generally unwell and passes whole seed in faeces, rapid weight loss, seizures, diarrhoea, and lack of appetite are also indicative.

Treatment of various types have been tried, but has so far only prolonged the life of the bird for a while with the inevitable happening in the end.
Good bio security must take place in aviaries with extended quarantine periods for new additions to prevent this fatal disease entering the aviary.

Avian Polyomavirus

2010-06-27T06:43:00.003-07:00

Description
Polyomavirus - This virus, also referred to as Budgerigar Fledgling Disease is a member of the papovavirus family. Polyoma virus is a 40-50 nm diameter in size, containing a double-
stranded DNA genome of approximately 5000 basepairs.

This pathogen is considered one of the most significant threats to cage birds around the world. This highly infectious disease effects most if not all parrot species. Polyoma seems to be most problematic among neonates (young birds) between the ages 14-56 days. Young birds often die, while adult birds can develop a certain level of immunity. Polyoma is believed to have an incubation period of approximately two weeks or less.


Transmission
The disease can spread from one bird to another via feather dust, feces, aerosols and parental feeding of chicks; direct contact or contact with infected environments (incubators, nest boxes)..Birds that are infected but do not have obvious signs of infection are often responsible for spreading the virus to an aviary or bird store. Carrier state maybe possible in adult birds.


Symptoms
Swollen abdomen, depression, loss of appetite, anorexia, weight loss, delayed crop emptying, regurgitation, diarrhea, dehydration, feather abnormalities hemorrhages under the skin, dyspnea, polyuria, ataxia, tremors, paralysis, acute death.

Some birds die without any clinical symptoms. Adult birds may die of secondary infection from bacterial, viral, fungal or parasitic pathogen.


Prevention
Isolate all birds shedding the disease. Disinfect all contaminated surfaces with an oxidizer such as chlorine bleach (Polyoma virus is resistant to many disinfectants). *Alcohol does not work as it is not an oxidizer.A vaccine is available, however this option may cost as much as $40-60 per bird: additionally booster shots are required each year and the effectiveness of the vaccine in younger birds is in question. Quarantine all new birds and use nested primer PCR testing to determine whether or not birds are infected.


Treatment
No Known treatment at this time


Diagnosis
Nested primer PCR testing, and sequence analysis of PDV DNA; histopathology.


Sample
When testing individual birds, a whole blood sample is recommend in conjunction with a cloacal swab when possible. If the sample tests positive, then the bird should be placed in quarantine and re-tested in 4-6 weeks. If the bird tests negative the second time, then a third test is recommended.Post mortem samples of liver, spleen, or kidney tissue in a sterile container, postmortem swabs may also be submitted. Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of Polyoma DNA in the environment. *It is recommenced to submit both a whole blood and cloacal swab sample for analysis when possible.


Handling
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.


Limitations
Vaccination of birds using a killed virus or DNA vaccine prior to testing does not affect the accuracy of a PCR test.

Avian Chlamydia

2010-06-27T06:43:00.001-07:00

Description:
Chlamydia psittaci - also referred to as Psittacosis, Parrot Fever or chlamydiosis. The word Psittacosis comes from the Greek word Psittakos, meaning parrot. Chlamydia are gram negative, spherical, (0.4-0.6 micron diameter), intracellular parasites
that people sometimes referred to as "energy parasites" because they use ATP (a crucial energy containing metabolite) produced by the host cell, hence, the term "energy parasites.
Incubation periods in caged birds vary from days to weeks and longer. Most commonly this period is approximately 3 to 10 days. Latent infections are common and active disease may occur several years after exposure. The incubation period of this disease is however difficult to assess due to these chronically infected birds that develop persistent, asymptomatic infections. In birds, C. psittaci may manifest itself as an upper respiratory infection with nasal, and or ocular discharge, diarrhea, or a combination of all three. In some cases, birds may be infected but show no signs. These cases are of concern because these birds may become carriers and shed the organism. A major concern with C. psittaci is the zoonotic potential of the organism. A zoonotic disease is an infection which can be transmitted from animals to humans. C. psittaci is also one of the major causes of infectious abortion in sheep and cattle. *C. psittaci is related to Chlamydia trachomatis, the most common human STD, and Chlamydia pneumonia, a cause of human pneumonia.
Transmission:
Transmission of this organism from one host to another is primarily through the air. The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the nasal and or ocular secretions, fecal material, and feather dust. The organism remains remarkably stable outside the host body and dries as a dusty substance. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Vertical transmission through the egg has been shown in domesticated ducks.The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas. *Transmission of the Chlamydial organism from birds to humans has been confirmed in a number of cases. Although psittacosis infection in humans is rare it is potentially dangerous for persons who are sick, elderly, immunosuppressed (e.g., HIV patients) or pregnant. These people should consult their doctor for more information concerning Chlamydia psittaci.
Symptoms:
In young birds clinical sings can include rough plumage, low body temperature, tremor, lethargy, conjunctivitis, dyspnea, emaciation, sinusitis, yellow to greenish droppings or grayish watery droppings may also be displayed.
Adult birds may develop symptoms such as tremors, lethargy, ruffled feathers, progressive weight loss, greenish diarrhea, occasional conjunctivitis, and high levels of urates in droppings. Birds infected with Chlamydia may develop one or several of these symptoms as the disease progresses.
Clinical changes associated with a Chlamydia infection include WBC elevated 2-3 times, Hct decreased 25-40%, SGOT elevated at least 2-3 times the normal levels, LDH elevated by at least 20%, and AST elevated by at least 2-3 times the normal limit. Other, more slight changes can occur in blood hematology and chemistry.*In humans: abrupt onset of fever, chills, headache, loss of appetite, shortness of breath, malaise, myalgia, and conjunctivitis can occur as a result of a Chlamydia infection.
Prevention:
Preventing the organism from entering your facility is the best method of prevention. Test and quarantine all new birds before entering them in your aviary; avoid bird marts and bird fares where the disease can spread. Commonsense hygiene includes the removal of fecal material, and quality air circulation.
Treatment:
Most treatments involve the use of tetracycline and its derivatives such as Vibramycin, Doxycycline, Oxytetracycline. The antibiotic can be given by intravenous or intramuscular injections. Antibiotics can also be given orally or mixed with palatable food. Treatment periods generally last about 45 days varying slightly depending on the treatment. Calcium should be withheld because tetracycline binds to calcium. Citric acid in the bird's drinking water can increase the levels of antibiotics in the blood.In humans tetracycline and its derivatives are generally an effective treatment for Chlamydia.
Diagnosis:
Fecal analysis, blood analysis, immunoflourescent testing, as well as PCR and nested PCR testing are excellent tool to help determine a Chlamydial infection.
Sample:
When testing individual birds, a whole blood sample is recommended in conjunction with a cloacal and/or throat swab when possible. If the sample tests positive the bird should be placed in quarantine and treatment should be begun immediately.Postmortem swabs or samples of liver, spleen, or kidney tissue in a sterile container may also be submitted. Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of Chlamydia psittaci DNA in the environment.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.

Avian Tuberculosis (Mycobacterium avium) PDD Syndrome

2010-06-27T06:42:00.000-07:00

Description

Mycobacterium (ATB) - Straight or slightly curved, non motile rods, 0.2 0.6 x 1.0 µm. Although difficult to stain, rods are Gram positive. After staining with basic fuchsin, cells resist decolorization with acidic ethanol and are therefore termed acid alcohol fast bacilli (AFB). This characteristic is due to the high level of lipid in mycobacterial cell walls.
There are seventy one validly named species of Mycobacterium and an additional three sub species The principal pathogens in the genus are M. bovis, M. leprae and M. tuberculosis but, in all, thirty two species are known to be pathogenic to humans or animals. Species of Mycobacteria other than those above are often referred to as "atypical mycobacteria". The most commonly encountered pathogens among the atypical mycobacteria are species of the Mycobacterium avium complex. The M. avium complex (MAC) its considered to contain M. avium, M. avium subspecies paratuberculosis, M. avium subspecies silvaticum and M. intracellulare. However, poorly identified strains which show some similarity to M. avium are also frequently, and incorrectly, allocated to the complex. There are over 20 recognized serotypes within the M. avium complex.Most birds including parrots, parakeets, cranes, sparrows, starling, emus, waterfowl raptors and softbills, have shown susceptibly to M. avium. It is believed that favorable conditions virtually all species of birds are susceptible to avian tuberculosis. It is most prevalent where there is a high population density, such as in zoos, or collections of birds.

Transmission:
M. avium infections are considered to be "open" meaning infected birds consistently shed large amounts of organism into the environment.
M. avium is transmitted by ingestion and inhalation of aerosolized infectious organisms from feces. Incubation in birds is weeks to years. Oral ingestion of food and water contaminated with feces is the most common method of infection. Once ingested, the organism spreads throughout the bird's body and is shed in large numbers in the feces. If the bacterium is inhaled, pulmonary lesions may develop. Skin invasion may occur as well. The spread via infected eggs can occur, but it is not common.
The transmission of M. avium from human to human has not been convincingly demonstrated and all infections are thought to be of environmental origin.

Symptoms:
In some cases sudden death can occur in a bird with normal body weight and outer appearance. However, in most cases a bird with TB will develop symptoms such as progressive weight loss in spite of a good appetite, depression, diarrhea, increased thirst, and respiratory difficulty. A decreased in egg production often occurs in birds that were laying eggs. Once the disease appears, it is virtually impossible to eradicate it. Eventual death is the usual outcome
Birds with the intestinal form often present with chronic wasting disease - and Proventricular Dilatation Syndrome is often one of the suspected possible diseases. In addition to weight loss, depression, diarrhea, increased urination (polyuria), abdominal distention, lameness and difficulty in breathing may be present.

Prevention:
Preventing M. avium is best done by minimize stress and overcrowding; Provide proper ventilation; Prevent malnutrition with a proper diet. Controlling an M. avium outbreak in zoos, bird gardens and private aviaries can be especially difficult to eradicate. New additions to the aviary should be quarantined for a minimum of 1-2 months. Testing new additions for M. avium is also a good way to prevent possible outbreaks.

Treatment:
All M. avium isolates that have been tested up to now are totally resistant to the antituberculous drugs currently used in humans ATB is extremely difficult to treat, and in many cases treatment is not considered a viable option.

Diagnosis:
It is difficult and lengthy process to culture the M. avium organism in the lab. An elevated White blood cell count may be present, as well as a low red blood cell count. It is sometimes possible to find bacteria in the feces by staining procedures. This however, is not specific because other acid-fast bacteria that are not M. avium may also be present. At ABI we use two techniques for testing M. avium. PCR assays which detect the actual disease causing organism, and ELISA assays which detect specific antibodies for M. avium. PCR assays are considered to be the fastest most sensitive method for detecting M. avium while ELISA assays help determine exposure to M. avium.

Sample:
At postmortem, biopsy of the liver, digestive tract, spleen and lungs. Is one of the best ways to diagnose the disease. For general screening whole blood, serum, vent and throat swabs can be used. It is best to submit both blood and swab samples for testing.

Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. Samples must be shipped overnight in a transport medium or as a dry swab.

Escherichia coli (E. coli)

2010-06-27T06:40:00.000-07:00

Description

Escherichia coli - commonly referred to as E. coli, this Gram-negative bacterium is a member of the Enterobacteriacae species. While many harmless or beneficial strains of E. coli occur widely in nature, including the intestinal tracts of humans and other vertebrates, birds and reptiles pathogenic types are a frequent cause of both enteric and urogenital tract infections. Several different types of pathogenic E. coli are capable of causing disease. A particularly dangerous type is referred to as enterohemorrhagic E. coli, or EHEC. The first such strain was identified in the United States in 1982. Since then, EHEC strains have been associated with food-borne outbreaks traced to undercooked hamburgers, unpasteurized apple juice or cider, salad, salami, and unpasteurized milk. EHEC strains produce toxins that have effects similar to those produced by bacteria of the Shigella genus. These enterotoxins can damage the lining of the intestine, cause anemia, stomach cramps and bloody diarrhea, and hemolytic uremic syndrome (HUS) leading to kidney failure. In North America, HUS is the most common cause of acute kidney failure in children.

In Birds

Birds, especially psittacines, are less dependent on E. coli and rely on a more Gram-positive gut flora. However, softbills such as the passerines (finches, jays, songbirds), columbiforms (pigeons and doves), galliforms (chicken-like birds), raptors (hawks, falcons, owls), and ratites (emus and ostriches), have a high incidence of normal Gram-negative gut flora of many varieties including E. coli.
The distribution of E. coli in psittacines varies one one species to another. It is less common in Amazons and macaws, sometimes found in greys, and common in cockatoos and Eclectus. In fact, E. coli can compose as much as 30 percent of the gut flora of some psittacines and others like cockatiels and budgies carry somewhat less.

Transmission:

The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the fecal material as well as nasal and or ocular secretions. The organism remains stable outside the host body and may dry as a dusty substance. This dust contaminates the air in the form of aerosols. These aerosols are then inhaled by another possible host. Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Other forms of transmission include infected hens feeding their young with contaminated crop contents, as well as contaminated feed and drinking water. Vertical transmission (transmission of the bacteria to and egg) can occur, subsequently chicks hatch and spread salmonella by direct contact. The embryo may die if bacteria levels become to high.The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas.

Symptoms:

Ruffled feathers - diarrhea - listlessness - weakness - shivering - vent picking The severity of the illness can depend on the age of the bird, the virulence of the bacteria, the immune system, stress and the degree of contamination. Affected birds can also become carriers showing no disease symptoms. These carriers can spread the disease to their offspring and may later become ill as a result of stress. Baby birds, with less developed immune systems, are more susceptible to disease and frequently die. Chronic infections in adult birds may form abscesses, fail to hatch eggs, have changes in eating habits and may intermittently pass contaminating bacteria.

Prevention:

Keep water and feed bowls free of fecal material. Identify carrier birds and properly treat them. Careful disposal of contaminated materials. Minimize Stress in the aviary. People working with contaminated material should practice good hygiene.

Treatment:

Broad spectrum antibiotics should only be started when a sample for culturing has been taken. Oral and injected antibiotics should be given simultaneously in severe cases. The sulfa drugs are good to use orally. Kanamycin and Gentamycin are usually effective by injection. When Gentamycin is used do not allow dehydration. Dehydration may cause toxicity to occur. If necessary, the antibiotics can be changed after sensitivity results are known.If diarrhea is severe Kaopectate or Pepto Bismal may be given orally with 2 to 3 drops in mouth three times per day. Water consumption should be monitored to prevent dehydration. Maintain a stress free environment. An incubator or a heating pad under the cage should be used to maintain the temperature between 85 and 90 degrees. Lacking an incubator if the heating pad alone won't maintain the temperature, place the cage in a box and the box on the heating pad with a thermometer in the back of the box in order to monitor temperature.ANTIBIOTICS:
Kanamycin: Dosage: .01 mgl to one gram of body weight intramuscularly twice daily.
Gentamycin: Dosage: .01 mg to one gram of body weight intramuscularly once daily or 25 mg. to 120 ml of drinking water orally.
Trimethoprim/Sulfamethoxazole Suspension: Dosage .002 ml to one gram of body weight orally twice daily.
Sodium Sulfachiorpridazine Powder: Dosage ¼ tsp to 120 ml drinking water
ANTIDIARRHEALS:
Pepto Bismol: Coats the intestinal tract. Helps to form a firmer stool. Dosage 2-3 drops in the mouth, 3 times daily.
Kaopectate: Daolin and pectin coat the intestinal tract and form a firmer stool. Dosage 3 drops in the mouth 3 times daily.
*Please check with the manufacturer of the specific antibiotic for additional information before treatment is started. Allays consult with your local avian veterinarian for additional information before treating individuals.

Diagnosis:

For best cultures are taken directly from the cloaca rather than from a fecal sample. If the bird dies, intestinal material, liver, blood and spleen can also be cultured.
Anytime E. coli is found in an internal culture other than the gastrointestinal tract, it should be considered pathogenic. E. coli can proliferate uncontrollably outside its normal home in the gut. However, some strains of E. coli can cause gastrointestinal disease. So, even in the gut, the bacterium may be pathogenic.Sensitivity testing should be performed since enteric bacteria are often resistant to several antibiotics.

Sample:

E. coli is usually detected from a cloacal (vent) culture. It is best to take the culture directly from the cloaca rather than from a fecal sample. A fecal sample may be contaminated by another bird or animal, such as a rodent.

Handling:

Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. Samples must be shipped overnight in a transport medium.

Salmonella

2010-06-27T06:39:00.000-07:00

Description

Salmonella - Salmonella species are gram negative, aerobic, rod-shaped, zoonotic bacteria that can infect people, birds, reptiles, and other animals. This genus includes approximately 2000 species divided into five subgenera. Of the five subgenera, two subgenera, subgenus I and subgenus III, can be found in birds. Subgenus I contains the species of salmonella that most commonly infect birds. Subgenus III, contains the species Salmonella arizonae and arizona hinshawii, which have occasionally been reported in birds, particularly those that are in contact with, or close proximity to reptiles.
Most vertebrates can be infected with Salmonella however, the host susceptibility and development of carrier states vary widely among species. Free-ranging birds can be sub-clinical carriers and serve as a reservoir of bacteria.
In addition to free-ranging birds, flies, rats, and other vermins may also serve as vectors of Salmonella. The incidence of various Salmonella species seems to vary with geographic location and the types of food consumed. Imported birds and animals may serve to introduce different Salmonella species to the local area that can cause new and devastating outbreaks.

Transmission

Transmission of this organism from one host to another is primarily through the air. The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the nasal and or ocular secretions, fecal material, and feather dust. The organism remains stable outside the host body and dries as a dusty substance. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Other forms of transmission include infected hens feeding their young with contaminated crop contents, as well as contaminated feed and drinking water. Vertical transmission (transmission of the bacteria to and egg) can occur, subsequently chicks hatch and spread salmonella by direct contact. The embryo may die if bacteria levels become to high.The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas.

Symptoms

General symptoms of Salmonella include lethargy, anorexia, and diarrhea. In chronic cases, arthritis (particularly in pigeons) may be present. With high dose infections excessive thirst, conjunctivitis along with indications of liver, spleen, kidney or heart damage can occur. Some individual avian species have unique clinical symptoms. Outbreaks in lories (Loriidae) are associated with an acute disease and high flock mortality. African Grey Parrots are also very susceptible, but they develop a more chronic disease showing symptoms such as mucus discharge from the beak/nasal area, arthritis, excessive thirst, and dermatitis. Droppings are colored a sulphur yellowish green which is very much a diagnostic sign for this microorganism.

Provention

Proper hygiene is the best way to prevent outbreaks of Salmonella. Effective control of flies, rodents and other vermin are also essential eliminate in preventing Salmonella outbreaks. Strains of Salmonella present in companion birds are generally not considered to be of any danger to a healthy human being. They may however, threaten infants, the elderly, or those with immunosuppressive diseases. Humans carrying Salmonella can infect their companion birds. Such human-to-animal interactions have been shown to occur, especially with African Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos and Macaws.

Treatment

Treatment of salmonella infections are more successful if the precise species is first determined. Once the particular species of salmonella has been identified, the appropriate antibiotic can be administered. The frequently found Salmonella strains are sensitive to many commonly available antibiotics, but strains from free ranging birds have varying degrees of resistance.ANTIBIOTICS:
Kanamycin: Dosage: .01 mgl to one gram of body weight intramuscularly twice daily.
Gentamycin: Dosage: .01 mg to one gram of body weight intramuscularly once daily or 25 mg. to 120 ml of drinking water orally.
Trimethoprim/Sulfamethoxazole Suspension: Dosage .002 ml to one gram of body weight orally twice daily.
Sodium Sulfachiorpridazine Powder: Dosage ¼ tsp to 120 ml drinking water
ANTIDIARRHEALS:
Pepto Bismol: Coats the intestinal tract. Helps to form a firmer stool. Dosage 2-3 drops in the mouth, 3 times daily.
Kaopectate: Daolin and pectin coat the intestinal tract and form a firmer stool. Dosage 3 drops in the mouth 3 times daily.
*Please check with the manufacturer of the specific antibiotic for additional information before treatment is started. Allays consult with your local avian veterinarian for additional information before treating individuals.

Diagnosis

A confirmed diagnosis requires isolation and identification of the Salmonella species. Most strains of Salmonella are motile, or capable of moving spontaneously, and grow on common media. However these assays provide a low degree of identity. PCR and sequence assays are also available, and results of these assays proved more precise information as to the type of Salmonella strain involved.

Sample

Samples from suspected birds are collected with cloacal swabs. Any mucus discharge from the eyes and nasal area should also be collected on a second swab. Swabs must be sterile and transported in a correct medium.Environmental swabs can also be submitted to help evaluate the environment.

Handling

Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. Samples must be shipped overnight in a transport medium.

Feather Plucking

2010-06-27T06:36:00.001-07:00

Most parrot owners who have a parrot with feather plucking problems find the condition extremely distressing not only for the bird but also for themselves. There is a feeling of guilt that somehow they are not providing there parrot with what he needs to maintain physical and mental health. Commitment to solving the problem by the owner is very important and even then it may be a long process. Once feather plucking has started it means the parrot has had a problem for much longer than the manifestation of the symptoms i.e. visual feather plucking. I would like to quote from an recent article by an eminent Parrot Vet. "The single most significant medical cause of feather plucking in pet birds is an inadequate diet. A report showed that up to 90% of all sick birds taken to the vets were suffering from "primary nutritional deficiencies" This is a very poor reflection on our parrot nutrition, and is an issue which needs to be addressed." The parrot diet recommended by Parrotcare is based on 30 years experience of breeding and keeping pet birds with great success and where feather plucking has been eliminated. The products sold in the diets are used at Parrotcare [ We don't sell any product unless they are tried with success over a sustain period of time!]

Your parrot needs to see a veterinary surgeon so that she can be checked over regarding her skin problem.

The causes of feather plucking or loss are:

o	Boredom and/or neurosis. This is similar to human's biting their fingernails and this is the commonest reason for psittacine birds to loose their feathers
o	Poor quality feathers due to malnutrition, poor husbandry or hormonal imbalance
o	Poor quality feathers due to malnutrition, poor husbandry or hormonal imbalance
o	Inflammation of the follicles from a bacterial or fungal infection
o	Feather mites. These are rare
o	Damaged feathers where the bird is kept in accommodation that is too small
o	Stress or fault lines where the barbules don't hook together. This is usually due to nutritional deficiencies
o	Moulting puts any bird under severe nutritional and physiological stress, so the diet should be tailored to the specific needs at the time
o	'Psittacine beak and feather syndrome'. Affected birds show progressive deterioration in the quantity and quality of the feathers. The clinical abnormalities are due to a problem with the growth of the feathers, and the cause is possibly due to a viral infection. Often a secondary bacterial infection can be fatal
o	'French moult'. In the UK, this is where the feather replacement is slower than normal. It may be due to an excess of Vitamin A. there is no specific treatment, but diets containing high levels of vitamin A should be avoided but the diet should be of a high nutritional value
o	Skin parasites, such as fleas, lice and ticks are fairly rare but can cause skin irritation

Parrots are very intelligent animals and they are thought to have the same level of intelligence as a five-year-old child. It is therefore very important that they get mental stimulation, as the commonest cause of feather plucking is boredom. Is the parrot left alone for long periods of time? If so, make sure that whenever she's left you have the video, TV or radio on. Make sure there are plenty of toys for your parrot to play with. For example, pieces of suspended chain, bells or keys, taking care that the leg bands do not get caught in the open links, are interesting. Blocks of hardwood, bark covered branches from native British hardwoods or fruit trees provide mental stimulation.

Also make sure there is enough space for the parrot if it is kept in a cage. Many parrot cages are very near the necessary minimum. The cage must be at least big enough to allow the bird to fully extend their wings and the tail should also be well clear of the floor when the bird is perched.

Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

2010-06-27T06:33:00.000-07:00

Description
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease - The virus causing this disease is a member of the Circoviridae. The molecular structure of the genome of the virus is roughly a 2,000 base, circular, single stranded DNA.
PBFD virus has a strong resemblance to Porcine Circovirus as well as to a number of plant viruses such as the Banana Bungy virus.

The disease is thought to be specific for psittacines and all psittacine species should be considered susceptible. Parrots known to be particularly affected by PBFD include, but are not limited to, Cockatoos, Macaws African Grey Parrots, Ringneck parakeets, Eclectus Parrots, Lovebirds.
	Causes fatal infections, primarily in young birds. Older birds may overcome the disease with few lasting affects.Some believe that these surviving birds become carriers able to shed the disease at a later date.
Others believe that a percentage of birds are able to eradicate the disease from their system leaving them with a natural immunity that can be passed on to their offspring.
The virus that causes PBFD can also affect the liver, brain, and immune system causing diminished resistance to infections. Consequently premature death usually occurs from these secondary bacterial, fungal, parasitic, or viral infections.


Transmission
Transmission of the virus from one individual to another is primarily through direct contact, inhalation or ingestion of aerosols, crop-feeding, infected fecal material, and feather dust. The virus can also be transmitted via contaminated surfaces such as bird carriers, feeding formula, utensils, food dishes, clothing, and nesting materials. The viral particles, if not destroyed can remain viable in the environment for months, long after the infected bird is gone.



Symptoms
	Symptoms include irreversible loss of feathers, shedding of developing feathers, development of abnormal feathers, new pinched feathers, and loss of powder down. Other possible symptoms include overgrown or abnormal beak,
symmetrical lesions on the beak and occasionally nails. Immunosuppression,rapid weight loss, and depression are also possible in later stages of the disease.

Secondary viral, fungal, bacterial or parasitic infections often occursas a result of diminished immunity caused by a PBFD viral infection. Additional symptoms not mentioned above
including elevated white cell counts are generally due to secondary infections and may not be directly related to PBFD virus infections.


Prevention
Strict isolation of all diseased birds to halt the the spread of the disease. DNA testing of all birds of susceptible species to rule out latent infection. DNA testing of aviary equipment and environment to test for possible contamination.


Treatment
No known treatment. Experimental vaccines are being developed.


Diagnosis
Skin biopsy, surgical biopsy of feather and shaft, or PCR testing of blood, swab, and feather samples.

PBFD should be considered in any bird suffering from abnormal feather loss or development. A biopsy of the abnormal feathers including the calimus (shaft) of the feather can be examined for signs of virus. However, since the PBFD virus does not affect all feathers simultaneously this method of evaluating a sample may have a high degree of error. Additionally, birds with PBFD can have normal feathers and the PCR test is the most effective method available for detecting the virus in birds before feather lesions develop.

Some birds infected with the virus, test positive, but never show clinical signs. Other birds which test positive may develop an immune response sufficient enough to fight off the infection and test negative after 30-90 days. Therefore, it is recommended to re-test all PBFD positive birds 60-90 days after the initial testing was completed. If the second sample remains positive, the bird should be considered permanently infected and can be expected to show clinical symptoms of the disease.


Sample
To test an individual bird a whole blood sample is recommended in conjunction with a cloacal swab or feathers (especially abnormal or suspicious-looking feathers) when possible. If the sample tests positive the bird should be placed in quarantine and re-tested after 4-6 weeks. If the bird tests negative the second time a third test after 4-6 weeks is recommended.

Post-mortem samples include liver, spleen, kidney, feather samples in a sterile container; postmortem swabs may also be submitted.
Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of PBFD DNA in the environment.
*It is recommenced to submit both a whole blood and cloacal swab sample for analysis when possible.


Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.

Avian Pacheco PVD

2010-06-27T06:31:00.001-07:00

Description:
Pacheco's disease - This disease is caused by a number of closely related members of the herpesviridae. Herpesviruses are 120 to 220 nm in diameter and their genome has a double stranded DNA structure. Replication of the virus occurs in the nucleus of a cell. These viruses primarily infect lymphatic tissue (B or T cells), skin (epithelial cells) and nerve cells.
PDV was first recognized in Brazil where aviculturalists began seeing birds dying only a few days after becoming ill. The virus can start shedding in the feces and nasal discharge of an infected bird in as little as 3-7 days after infection. Considered highly contagious , PDV can spread rapidly through an aviary. Often the first sign that the disease is present is when a new bird is introduced to an aviary and healthy birds begin mysteriously dying. Pacheco's disease is often fatal and affects psittacines of all ages. New World psittacines seem to be more susceptible to the disease than Old World psittacines.
Transmission:
Transmission of PDV is generally through infected feces and nasal discharge. PDV remains remarkably stable outside the host body as a dust or aerosol. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Contaminated surfaces, food, and drinking water may also contribute to the spread of the disease. Birds can be asymptomatic carriers of Pacheco's virus. Some believe that any bird that has survived an outbreak of the disease should be considered as a possible carrier. PDV can be reactivated when the bird is under stress such as during breeding, loss of mate, or change and environmental changes. Once it is reactivated the virus is shed in large numbers in the feces of the infected bird.
Symptoms:
Symptoms include lethargy, diarrhea, ruffled feathers, sinusitis, anorexia, conjunctivitis, and tremors in the neck, wing and legs. Fecal material may become discolored with urates becoming green indicating possible liver damage has occurred. Birds generally die from massive liver necrosis characterized by an enlarged liver, spleen and kidneys. However, some birds die suddenly with no specific or observable symptoms. Seemingly healthy birds often die quickly from Pacheco's disease. Generally stress associated with relocation, breeding, loss of mate or climate changes can activate the virus and result in activation of the disease and it's symptoms as well as shedding large numbers of the virus in the feces.
Prevention:
Isolate all birds shedding PDV. Disinfect all contaminated surfaces with an oxidizer such as chlorine bleach (as Pacheco's virus is resistant to many disinfectants, alcohol does not work because it is not an oxidizer). It is also important to replace all air filters and clean vents and fan blades. A killed virus vaccine is available and can be given in a series of two injections, 4 weeks apart (yearly booster shots are required). Some species, such as cockatoos and Eclectus parrots, have had vaccination reactions such as granulomas and paralysis. Additionally, the vaccine may not protect against all forms of PDV. Only birds with high risk of exposure, such as pet store birds, should be vaccinated.Quarantine all new birds for 30-60 days and use PCR testing to determine whether or not birds are infected. Isolate birds who have been exposed to Pacheco's virus.
Treatment:
Acyclovir is effective against some strains of Pacheco's but may cause kidney damage. Acyclovir works best when treatment is started before symptoms appear.
Diagnosis:
PCR and sequence testing for specific PDV DNA. Histopathology.
Sample:
In live birds please submit both a blood sample and a cloacal swab sample for each bird. The Virus can be isolated from tissue samples of the liver, spleen or kidney submitted in a sterile container. Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective when in determining the presence of Pacheco's virus DNA in the environment.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.

Parrot First Aid

2010-06-27T06:12:00.000-07:00

Are you or your Parrot in Danger??

Remove the Danger First, Danger could be anything from Electrical Wires exposed to Cats in the same room.
Remove anything that is immediately causing any danger to you or your Parrot.
DO NOT touch Electrical Wires with any part of your skin, Wires should be moved by using an outreached broom handle or something NON Conducting i.e. Wood, Plastic. Turn off Electrical Supply of Possible.

Is your Parrot Responsive??

Make sure your parrot is responsive, If your parrot is making noise or moving in some respect then this is a good sign. To put it bluntly he's alive. This is the time to give him a quick once over, check for bleeding, anything obvious like airway obstruction,

If your parrot is not moving then give him a little prod with your finger. If nothing happens then give him a gentle pinch on a wing or near the cheek.

Does Your Pet Bird Love to Eat What You Are Eating?

2010-06-27T02:39:00.000-07:00

Do they even try to steal food from your hand or dinner plate? I know our Quaker parrot, Charlie does. Whatever we are eating Charlie doesn't want to miss out on. As soon as he sees any type of food he wants it and he is not going to stop performing until he gets it.

Whilst we like to give Charlie a wide variety of foods, I have read that there are some that are highly dangerous to birds even fatal and you must not let your bird eat any of them. They are, avocado, chocolate, apple seeds including cherries, peaches, apricots and pears contain trace amounts of cyanide within their seeds. The fruit of the apple and pear is fine but the seeds are poisonous and there may be pesticides present on the fruit's skin so it is important to wash all food, onions, mushrooms, tomato leaves including the green coloured part, stems and vines and the same for potatoes, salt, caffeine including soda, coffee, and tea, dried beans are all not to be fed to your pet bird, cooked beans are considered ok as long as they are thoroughly cooked. Boiled eggs and the shell are a good source of nutrition as well.

Sometimes at meal times we make up a separate plate just for Charlie and sit it next to us on a birdbib so as he still feels like he is getting the same as us. There are times though that no matter what we do he just wants to eat from our plate. Although this may seem cute, funny, or whatever, it is not safe for your bird. They may just eat something that is poisonous to them and it could be fatal and then how cute would that be. I have watched my son clear away a space on his plate just for Charlie's food! Mmmm

After researching I have found that there is a wide variety of food that you can offer your pet bird, whether you have a Quaker parrot, Parrot, Budgerigar, Cockatiel any Parakeet. The foods include grapes, oranges, bananas, mangoes, melons -- just about any kind of fruit imaginable is good for your bird. alfafa sprouts, chile, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots (one of Charlies favourites), asparagus, peas, celery, thoroughly cooked beans and pasta cooked or raw (another of Charlie's favourite), cereal, grains, bread and a small amount of nuts are a great treat. They also love popcorn, but not the microwave type as they are very high in salt.

If your pet bird does like to eat what you are eating please make sure that the food you offer is safe for them, just as you would for any family member. After all our pets are just like family and we all should look after them and their health in the same way that we would a child, as they are just as or even more vulnerable. Pet birds are just like children, they love to eat what tastes good, not what is good for them. That saying comes to mind, sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind.

After purchasing a Quaker Parrot and getting tired of all the washing that goes with sitting him on our shoulders, I designed and made a bird bib to protect our clothing. The bird bib has been very successful in keeping our clothes free from bird droppings

Feeding Parrots

2010-06-27T02:32:00.000-07:00

One of the greatest challenges facing parrot caregivers today is that of providing an optimal diet. There seems at this time to be little to no agreement among professionals in aviculture and related professions as to what constitutes the best diet for each species, and conflicting information leads the parrot owner closer and closer over time toward a state of confusion and frustration. Coupled with the difficulty of learning what to feed to foster the best health in our parrots, is the resistance to new foods that our parrots display. Thus, the well-intentioned caregiver who tries to follow the advice given about what to feed often eventually gives up in despair of getting the bird to eat the recommended diet.

Is it really any wonder that many bird owners simply succumb to the temptation to provide seed as the largest component of the diet? This thinking was voiced recently by one well-meaning, but misguided, bird owner who declared her preference for feeding seed on the basis that at least her bird would enjoy his life, even if it were to be shorter because of his diet.

Other owners do not settle for this solution, and continue to investigate and research parrot diets in hopes of finding the answers necessary to successfully feeding a parrot in a manner that will insure good health and longevity. Such a search toward taking more personal responsibility for parrot care, rather than simply accepting the advice of one authority, leads to more quality parrot care in all areas. This is the hidden blessing that living with parrots affords us – as we seek to learn more about their care needs, we are challenged to think for ourselves. This is quite different from the manner in which we have been led to act in our society, which encourages us to abdicate personal responsibility and instead rely upon the guidance of professionals in our midst.

Malnutrition in Companion Parrots is the “Norm”

It is critically important that we continue to strive to learn more about parrot nutrition, as new information becomes available. Over a decade ago, Joel Murphy, DVM wrote in his book The Complete Guide to Parrot Nutrition, “Good nutrition is the most important requirement of a parrot for a long life, good health, and reproductive success. Today, however, with the increased popularity of pet parrots, malnutrition is the number one cause of death. Malnutrition not only kills birds directly, but also predisposes parrots to a wide host of bacterial, viral, and fungal diseases. Parrots have been kept in captivity for thousands of years, but little is known about each parrot species’ dietary requirements. There have been few scientific studies on parrot nutrition and no individual or organization (including the National Academy of Sciences) has determined the optimum diet for any parrot species.”

Little has changed since that was published. In his most recent book, How to Care for Your Pet Bird, he writes “Malnutrition is the leading cause of disease in the pet bird. It is rare for a parakeet or cockatiel to die of an illness that is not caused by a poor diet. All psittacine birds are omnivorous. Omnivorous means both meat and vegetable eaters. The number one cause of malnutrition is feeding a psittacine bird a simple seed or grain diet. …Feeding your pet bird correctly is the most important part of proper bird care. Even today, most budgerigars and cockatiels die of diseases caused by poor diets. Larger parrots are known for their long life spans of 40 to 70 years. In reality, most live very short lives – often cut short by malnutrition.”

Valerie Campbell, DVM writes, “Problems related to improper nutrition are extremely common in pet birds. In the larger parrot species (amazons, cockatoos, macaws), whose normal life spans are quite long, it is reported that the majority of these birds die within 5 years of purchase. Nutrition plays a major role in their demise.”[i] She goes on to discuss a recent Dutch study, which revealed that “60% of the birds presented for autopsy showed signs of nutritional deficiency.” Thus, in a very real sense, the parrot owner holds his bird’s life in his hands when he chooses the diet he will feed.
After years of experience as an avian behavior consultant, I have concluded that malnutrition is also at the root, or is at least a partial cause, of behavioral disease as well. The vast majority of behavior problems in parrots are due in part to poor diet. We know ourselves that we do not feel well, nor can we behave well, when we eat foods high in sugar and fat and that lack important nutrients. I believe that an evaluation of the diet and it’s effect on the parrot is a cornerstone of good behavioral work.

Psitttacine Nutrition as An Evolving Field of Knowledge

As we examine the issue of psittacine nutrition, it is helpful to understand a little about the recent history of parrot keeping in the United States. For instance, as recently as the 1980’s, most parrots were wild-caught and existed solely as caged birds; they were not handled by their owners.[ii] That was a mere 20 years ago. It has only been in the last two decades that parrots have been bred in the numbers they are today. In response to this increase in their population, the fields of avian veterinary medicine and avian behavior consultation have sprung up. Some dates pulled from the history of avian veterinary medicine allow us to understand just what a “new” field this is. The Association of Avian Veterinarians was established in 1982 and board certification of avian veterinarians did not begin until 1993[iii] The field of behavior consulting has just as recently come into being. These dates provide a frame of reference which allows us to better understand why owners find so much conflicting advice about the correct diet for parrots, as well as other areas of parrot keeping.

Parrot caregivers will come to a better understanding of how to provide a good diet for their birds when they understand how ideas about diet have evolved, the current status of information about wild parrot diets, the role that vision plays in food selection, the patterned factors that govern foraging in the wild, and the true nutritional value of different diet elements. Feeding parrots with a sense of confidence need not be a confusing matter.

During the past few decades and until relatively recently, companion parrots and breeding stock have been fed a seed-based diet, supplemented with table food and/or fruit. Since seed mixes do not provide adequate nutrition, any parrots eating primarily seed eventually suffered from nutritional deficiencies that predisposed them to infection and caused other health problem as well. Seed contains a poor calcium/phosphorus ratio, which leads to calcium deficiencies. It also lacks an adequate amount of vitamin A, which is important to the functioning of the immune system. Lastly, seed will not meet the protein requirements of a parrot. Thus, a seed diet ultimately places a parrot’s health in jeopardy, as veterinarians have discovered.

Further, the seeds that form the basis for most seed mixes are also grown for cooking oil production and are not at all the same as the seeds wild parrots consume. Thus, seed mixes fed today can not be thought of as a “natural” food for parrots. The seeds that parrots eat in the wild are not harvested or imported into this country, and it is likely that they do not contain the high fat levels found in those contained in most seed mixes sold today for parrot consumption.

In the past two decades, formulated diets, commonly called “pellets,” made their appearance on pet food store shelves, and provided veterinarians with a better alternative to seed-based diets. Pellets have been embraced by the majority of vets, who have collectively begun urging owners to convert their birds to pellets and eliminate seed from their diets, as the sole answer to dietary needs. However, enough time has now elapsed since the introduction of pelleted and extruded diets that we have begun to see problems among some species related to the consumption of these.

Some of the problems that have appeared have been related to protein levels in pellets that are too high for some species, including but not limited to Pionus species and cockatiels, and which result in the development of gout or PU/PD (polyuria/polydypsia) in some individuals. In addition, reports of both iron toxicity and vitamin D toxicity connected with the feeding of pellets have surfaced. Less frequently, we hear of problems caused in young parrots weaned to pellets with inadequate amounts of some nutrients, such as perosis (twisting of the leg bones) caused by low levels of choline in the manufactured diet. Simply put, we do not yet know enough about the nutritional needs of all parrot species to claim that any one manufactured diet is going to meet their nutritional needs. The recognition of these health problems caused by pellets forces us once again to reevaluate the manner in which we feed our parrots.

Factors for Consideration When Creating Your Parrot’s Diet

Some avian veterinarians believe that parrot owners should be encouraged to feed a 100% manufactured diet to their birds because the majority of owners are not capable of providing a good diet otherwise. I never fail to feed saddened when I encounter this ideology, for it essentially removes the benefit and privilege of choice from the parrot owner, as well as the parrot. In other words, the owner is encouraged to feed a pelleted diet, not because of strong conviction that the diet is optimal, but because it is perceived as the lesser of two evils.

However, I see no reason why owners can not learn the fundamentals of good nutrition and provide wisely for their birds. For those who care not to do so, reliance upon pelleted foods as the total diet is a viable choice.

The majority of parrots can and do enjoy good health when eating a pelleted-only diet. Further, I believe the majority of parrots benefit from eating pellets as a staple in the diet. For one thing, parrots need a “default” diet. By my definition, this is a diet that is packaged, easy to feed, and will supply all their nutritional needs. If I were to die tomorrow, and there were no one to chop their fruits and vegetables, my parrots would all be fine – because they all enjoy a high-quality pelleted diet in addition to their fresh foods. Further, I regard the ability to eat and enjoy a high quality pelleted diet as a living skill. Pellets are a great source of protein and other essential nutrients.

However, there are good reasons to provide a diet that includes more choices for the parrot. And, parrot owners also deserve a choice, and will have one if they take the time to read and put into practice the best of dietary guidelines.

For those parrot owners interested in learning how to feed an optimal diet prepared at home (a diet that is offered in addition to pellets), it is necessary to learn not only what to feed, but how to feed. Many factors inherent to a wild parrot’s eating habits continue to govern their reactions to foods in captivity. Timing of feedings plays a part in food acceptance. The types of foods offered also can impact a parrot’s appetite over time, causing him to refuse to eat healthier fare. The manner in which food is offered will many times dictate whether or not the meal is ultimately met with acceptance. Even an owner’s attitude can influence what his bird will accept and eat.

Secondly, we must have a fundamental understanding of nutrition, of the basic nutritional building blocks necessary to growth and maintenance of tissues, bones, feathers and a healthy immune system, as well as the best sources of these. The basic classes of nutrients include protein, fat, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. We will take a look at the role each plays in the psittacine diet and at the food choices that will supply each to the parrot.

The When and How of Feeding Parrots

It is important to examine when and how to feed parrots in order to insure acceptance of the foods offered, and will take a look at some of the most common mistakes made by parrot owners. First, however, we must begin with a fundamental recognition of the fact that parrots enjoyeating. In the wild, it is a social activity replete with enjoyment. Foraging is an “event.” The more we strive to feed parrots in a manner that reflects the patterns they follow in nature, the greater success we will have with them in our homes.

It is generally accepted as true that parrots forage in the wild twice each day, in the early morning and the late afternoon and early evening before dark. It is my experience that parrots eat more readily and enthusiastically if a new crock of food is provided to them at these times. My own parrots receive their morning meal predictably at 8:00 am. Their evening meal is given to them between 4:00 and 6:00 pm, depending upon the time of year. I strive to feed them at least an hour before dusk, so that they have plenty of time to eat before darkness falls. In this manner, we also make eating an “event.” In my home, pellets are provided in a separate dish and are available all the time. For the morning and evening feedings, they are provided with a dish of fresh, raw vegetables, fruit, cooked legumes, grains and beans, some seeds and nuts. I strive to provide lots of variety in these two daily meals and am gratified when the birds enthusiastically rush to their food dishes to see what they will find each time they are fed.

Feed Parrots Twice a Day for Best Health

As I indicated above, I frequently find that poor diet plays a large role in the development of behavior problems. In many of these cases, not only must we make improvements in what is fed to the parrot, but in when and how it is fed. In some instances, parrots are provided with a dish of fresh foods in the morning, but nothing in the evening. This is based upon the rationale that they have pellets available at all times and they can just eat those from mid-day onward when they are hungry.

The problem with this plan is that some parrots will not eat enough pellets to really develop a feeling of satiety. They will ignore, or only eat lightly of the pellets, in hopes of being offered “tastier” fare. In our snack-loving society, they usually are not disappointed and will be offered “treats” throughout the evening, or will share the table food the family enjoys. This latter is not a problem if the foods shared are very healthy. However, I have yet to find a situation where the parrot is sharing meals consisting of cooked whole grains, lightly steamed vegetables, and lean meats. Instead, when I request a three-day food diary, the foods listed for dinner are invariably macaroni and cheese, spaghetti, pizza, etc..

It is more important to closely examine what a parrot is eating, rather than what the parrot is offered. Repeatedly when doing so, I find that the bird is “holding out” for offerings of table food and treats. In one home, the bird ate breakfast with the family, which consisted of cereal and milk or waffles. He was then given “lunch,” which consisted of a crock of vegetables and fruit. At dinner, he was fed the same table food consumed by his human family. Since the morning and evening meals fell in timing closer to the times he is genetically programmed to forage, he ate a great deal at those times, and generally ignored his vegetables that were provided at noon. His caregiver had come to the conclusion that he “didn’t like” fresh vegetables. However, the real reason he largely ignored them was that they were provided at a time of day when he was not interested in eating.

Parrots should not be fed “lunch.” They should be provided with two main meals of their own each morning and early evening. After having had a chance to eat from those, it is permissible for the parrot to join the human family for some table food at dinner. However, the family’s dinner should not be served to the parrot as his only evening meal.

Avoid Snack Foods and Limit Table Food

Certain foods will “pervert” a parrot’s appetite, in my experience, in that the bird will come to favor them over others and will “hold out” for those. In one case, I was having trouble figuring out what the parrot really ate. I had requested a diet diary for a three-day period and saw that the parrot was provided with two main meals each day, but the owner complained that he was not eating much of those. Upon closer examination, it was revealed that this bird was subsisting solely upon peanut butter filled pretzels and other treats. His well- meaning human family had a habit of snacking throughout the day and they were sure to always include their African Grey in this. So many snacks were offered to the bird during the day, that he had no desire to eat his fresh foods.

Foods high in fat, simple carbohydrates (including sugar) and salt have a way of “perverting” the appetite in such a manner that the more one eats of them, the more one wants of them. The same phenomena can be seen in parrots as well.

Because of issues related to “timing” of feedings, and to appetite, I am opposed to the frequent feedings of table food and snack foods. When evaluating a parrot’s diet, I do not like to see table food make up more than 20% of the diet. Not only is the standard American diet too high in fat, salt, sugar, and processed foods, but it is largely a cooked diet. Parrots evolved in the wild eating fresh, live raw foods. These raw foods have an abundance of enzymes, essential fatty acids, and phyto-nutrients that are destroyed by cooking. I do not believe that a parrot will enjoy the best health if the majority of the foods he eats are processed and cooked. If, as we continue to assert, they are not yet domesticated, then common sense would appear to dictate that they will enjoy the greatest level of health in captivity if fed at least 50% of their diet in fresh, live, raw foods. Every mouthful a parrot takes should count toward good nutrition. If a bird fills up on pretzels, cereal, spaghetti and dried fruit, he is not going to want to eat raw greens, blueberries and broccoli.

Unfortunately, in our addictive society, food is often used to satisfy emotional needs, rather than nutritional needs. Many of our “snacks” fill that purpose. A great many owners project this emotional need to have “snacks” onto their parrot companions. This leads to a problem with poor nutrition for the bird himself. If owners want to provide snacks to their parrots, they should stick to fresh nuts, and these should be limited as well. They are best reserved for rewarding good behavior and training tricks.

Acceptance Depends Upon Familiarity

Another factor that governs acceptance concerns the manner in which the food is offered. Parrots are notoriously conservative creatures, shunning anything that is unfamiliar. This often leads owners to misinterpret their birds reactions to foods offered. When the parrot is presented with broccoli and he has never seen broccoli before, his first reaction is going to be to toss it down without a second look…that is, if he’s brave enough to go near it. However, chances are the owner will interpret this as a “dislike” of broccoli. The majority of parrots will need to see a new food many times before trying it as a food source.

For this reason, you will see a greater level of acceptance of new foods if all foods are served in “mixes.” I use three mixes when I feed my own parrots. The first is a fresh food mix that contains chopped greens, chopped vegetables, cooked beans, grains and legumes, fruit, whole grain pasta, and frozen vegetables. Because my birds are used to the overall appearance of this mix, I can put anything into it and they will eat it because the general appearance of the meal has not changed. The second mix of foods I use is a cooked grain mix, wherein one to three different types of grains are cooked along with shredded or chopped sweet potatoes, carrots, squash or pumpkin. To this mix is added other shredded vegetables, ground nuts, etc. The third “mix” I serve is a birdie bread mix. Recipes for birdie bread abound, but there is none better than Gloria Scholbe’s recipe, which can be found at www.holisticbird.org.

I feed the fresh food mix in the morning, because this can be left in the cage all day without danger of spoilage, since the majority of the ingredients are not cooked. In the evening, I feed the fresh food mix again with a piece of birdie bread or a cooked grain mix in place of the fresh mix. If the birds are offered any table food, it is at least an hour or more after they have had a chance to thoroughly enjoy their own meal.

Lastly, as unlikely as it might sound, the owner’s attitude about the food she is serving her birds can go a long way to determining which foods the parrot will accept. Not only are our birds incredibly empathic, but they are masters at reading body language. When the owner presents a crock of fresh vegetables, but does so with the conviction that the bird won’t eat them, she is likely to cue the bird that something is “wrong” with the food itself. Owners will see the greatest acceptance of foods offered when they are offered with the conviction that the parrot will eat them and enjoy them.

Food Selection is a Learned Behavior

In order to hold this conviction, we must dispense with our ideas about what the parrot likes. In my experience, parrot owners are overly concerned with providing foods that their companion birds like. Apparently, we love them so much that we want desperately to please them. That is a recurrent theme that I encounter with each and every consultation I do. I personally hold a private belief that the slight desperation I sense in the owner’s need to please the parrot has it’s roots in an unspoken undercurrent of guilt at keeping a flighted creature in a cage with clipped wings. Granted, this is not ever a spoken feeling or motivation. However, the degree to which owners attempt to please their parrots with food is far and above anything I see with dogs and cats. The latter are, in most cases, dispassionately provided with kibble, and that’s that.

In attempting to reply to an owner’s concerns about feeding foods that his bird “likes,” I explain that breeding parrots in the wild likely do not take their fledglings out to forage the first few times and say, “Here, little one, take a bite of this and see if you like it. If you don’t, we’ll make the whole flock fly over there and you can try that plant to see if you like it.” Instead, the message conveyed is more likely to be simply, “Here…this is what African Greys eat. We’re African Greys, and here is how to eat it!” In other words, eating and food choices are learned, and we would do well in captivity to follow such a thought pattern when feeding our own parrots. Rather than paying such close attention to an individual parrot’s reaction to a given food on a given day, and drawing conclusions about his preferences from that, we must instead serve a large variety of healthful foods at appropriate times of the day, and minimize the feeding of any less healthful foods. We will then have made significant progress towards keeping a healthy bird.

We must also commit to providing a “landscape” of healthy food choices. We must have enough humility to realize that parrots in the wild do effectively make food selections that insure their best health. We must allow room for the possibility that captive parrots are capable of doing the same thing, if they are eating a well-chosen diet that does not include unhealthy foods. In the wild, if a parrot eats sparingly of a certain plant, that plant does not disappear out of the landscape simply because the parrot is not feeding on it every day. Similarly, in captivity we must provide a “landscape” of healthy food choices and keep these in place, even if our parrot doesn’t eat a significant amount of each every day. True, this results in a lot of waste. That’s okay.

Thus, in summary, parrots will achieve the greatest health when fed twice a day a meal prepared specifically for them to meet their nutritional needs, that consists of chopped mixes of raw or lightly cooked whole foods. These should be served with the conviction that they will be met with acceptance.

Understanding the Basics of Nutrition

Once we understand when and how to feed parrots, we must then evaluate the diet we are feeding. I can not reiterate often enough the importance of parrot owners thinking for themselves about diet, researching and learning more each day, in order to decide for themselves the diet that is appropriate to their species. The first step in doing so is to gain a basic knowledge of nutrition and the various categories of nutrients that a parrot must consume in order to maintain good health. These include proteins (amino acids), carbohydrates, fats (essential fatty acids), vitamins, minerals, and other essential trace minerals.

Protein… Requirements and Sources

The diet you are feeding your parrots should be first evaluated to determine whether adequate amounts of protein are being consumed. Proteins, which are comprised of amino acids, are used by the parrot to grow and repair muscle, organs, feathers, beak, and other body tissue. Amino acids, which are often called the “building blocks” of protein, are divided into two groups: essential and non-essential. The non-essential amino acids can be manufactured by the parrot’s own body. However, there are at least ten amino acids that must be supplied by the diet, because the body can not manufacture them. These are called the essential amino acids, and they are arginine, lysine, methionine, tryptophan, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, threonine and valine.[iv]

The protein contained in foods is similarly categorized as either “complete” protein or “incomplete protein,” depending upon whether the food contains all of the amino acids, or only some of them. For instance, corn contains protein, but it lacks many of the essential amino acids, and thus is looked upon as a poor source of protein.

Eggs and other animal proteins contain high levels of all of the essential amino acids and are considered to be higher quality protein foods. Pellets also are an acknowledged source of complete protein for psittacine birds. As we know, they are considered by many to be a complete diet, in and of themselves, eliminating the need for any other foods. I, and many others however, refuse to accept that parrots should be fed a pelleted food as the total diet. David McCluggage, DVM in Holistic Care for Birds, explains it well: “A current trend recommends feeding birds a formulated commercial diet. We cannot recommend this method because we do not believe it offers optimum nutrition to birds. People should not restrict their birds’ diet to only highly processed foods. It would be absurd if someone told us that the best diet for us is a pelleted diet – the same pellet for every meal, day in and day out. We know much more about what the human body needs nutritionally, and we are told continually that we must eat a variety of different fresh foods daily. Why would birds be any different? Although feeding your bird a certified, organic, pelleted food can be a good addition to its diet, using the pellet as the entire diet is inadequate and unappealing for birds.”[v]

Other good protein sources are garbanzo beans, lentils, soy beans, pinto beans, red kidney beans, split peas, and white kidney beans.

Dairy products and meats can be fed as sources of complete protein. Parrots need small amounts of protein to supply essential amino acids. Such sources include eggs, well-cooked chicken and fish, and dairy products. When legumes (beans)are fed along with whole grains, the need to feed animal protein is eliminated.

While it is often written that parrots are “lactose intolerant,” meaning that they can not digest dairy produces, in reality they can digest low to moderate amounts of dairy products. Eggs and cottage cheese are excellent sources of protein. If you feed dairy products, feed them in moderation and watch your parrot’s droppings. If loose, watery stools result from the amount fed, then reduce the amount given.

In determining how much animal protein should be fed, we can look at what we know about the protein requirements previously published. It is often recommended that parrots consume between 10% and 16% protein daily. Breeding birds and young, growing birds need additional amounts. According to Dr. Murphy, feeding a teaspoon of complete protein daily would satisfy the maintenance requirements for a medium-sized parrot.[vi]

Nuts are high in both fat and protein and also contain minerals. Nuts are perhaps the best “snack” food that we can give our birds.

If a parrot does not consume enough high quality, or “complete,” protein foods it will not have good health. Amino acid deficiencies result in increased susceptibility to bacterial and other infections, feather picking, poor feather quality overall, poor growth and decreased fertility in breeding birds. Parrots also need more protein during periods of growth, when molting and when breeding.

Too much protein can also be detrimental to health, and anecdotal information has now been gathered which suggests that some species will develop gout when fed diets too high in protein. When a parrot consumes too much protein, the excess amino acids are used for the creation of energy. The end product of this process is uric acid, which must then be excreted by the kidneys. In extreme cases, this leads to kidney damage.

Protein requirements for a given parrot will also depend upon the fat content of the diet. The number of calories in the diet we feed a parrot will dictate the amount of food the bird eats. If the diet is high in calories, the bird will consume less food. Thus, the protein levels in the diet must be higher, in order for the bird to consume an adequate amount. If the diet is low in calories, more food will be consumed and the bird will then need less protein in each mouthful. Therein lies the problem with feeding a lot of snack food to a parrot. Snack foods sold for consumption by humans are typically high in calories and will cause a bird to cut down on his consumption of healthier fare. If he is not provided with an adequate amount of protein in the balance of his diet, malnutrition will result.

Unfortunately, at this time we do not have accurate figures for the protein requirements of each species. However, some information has been gathered and anecdotal information accumulates with each passing year. In my own experience, I find African Grey parrots and the majority of cockatoos to have slightly higher protein requirements that the New World species. These parrots often experience the best health when fed either Harrison’s High Potency pellets or Scenic Diet pellets – both higher in protein than other brands. (I make this statement with the assumption that the parrots eating these pellets are also receiving fresh whole foods in their diet as well.)

My own approach with my flock, which has to date achieved excellent results, has been to provide pellets for free choice consumption, along with the fresh food mixes and other foods that I serve. I believe, and have for years, that parrots will balance their own diets if served an abundant variety of nutritionally dense foods and are not fed fatty or sugary foods that will pervert their appetites. I find that there are times that my parrots hardly touch their pellets, while at others, they will consume them to the exclusion of all other foods.

Fresh vegetables provide a variety of valuable nutrients, but many are deficient in amino acids (protein), calcium and some vitamins. You will not achieve your goal of feeding a balanced diet to your parrots if you merely supplement a seed diet with fresh vegetables. However, while vegetables are often low in amino acids, they can be combined in such a way as to provide good quality protein. The greater the variety of vegetables fed, the more likely you will be to provide a balanced diet. Some vegetables (legumes), such as beans, are fairly high in protein.

Carbohydrates…Requirements and Sources

Carbohydrates also are necessary to good health. The term “carbohydrates” refers to simple sugars, starches and non-digestible fiber, or cellulose. Carbohydrates are provided by fruit, vegetables, and grains. Carbohydrates, with the exception of fiber, provide energy to the body. Fiber itself does not provide any nutrients, and it still remains uncertain whether it is necessary to psittacine health. However, it has been shown that poultry will engage at times in cannibalism and feather picking when fed a diet lacking in fiber. Fiber also has been shown important to human health. Therefore, we might assume that it is also of importance to psittacine health.

The percentage of carbohydrates necessary to parrots also remains unclear at this time, although we do know that some species have higher requirements than others, such as lories and lorikeets. While the over-consumption of fats has routinely been blamed for obesity in parrots, a diet too low in fat will often cause the over consumption of carbohydrates, which also results in obesity - especially if adequate amounts of protein are not included in the diet.

Fruits provide carbohydrates and may help to maintain the acid/alkaline balance in the body. Generally speaking, however, fruit is low in protein, vitamins and minerals. As with seed, if too much fruit is consumed the parrot may neglect to eat other, more nutrition foods. Its consumption should be limited to no more than 10% of the diet.

Non-oily seeds and grains are another valuable source of carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. These include millet, canary seed, buckwheat, oats, rye, barley, wheat, quinoa, spelt, kamut, amaranth and rice. These grains can be fed soaked, sprouted or cooked.

Fats…Requirements and Sources

Fats are another category of nutrient necessary to psittacine birds, although requirements vary widely among species. Fats provide essential fatty acids and, along with carbohydrates, provide energy to the body. Parrots in the wild seek out high fat (high calorie) foods, and will do the same in captivity. This is another reason to limit human snacks and table food, as well as seed. Obesity in some species, such as Amazons, is quite common and results from eating high fat foods while enjoying a relatively sedentary lifestyle.

Seed mixes fed to parrots are one source of fats and essential fatty acids. Seeds are rich in oils containing essential fatty acids. They also provide carbohydrates and some vitamins. They are one of the most-enjoyed foods you can offer a parrot. If offered seeds as a free-choice diet component, parrots will usually eat the seed to the exclusion of anything else offered, thus I am opposed to providing a dish of just seed to most parrots.

Many companies offer “vitamized” or vitamin-enriched seed mixes in hopes of reassuring the parrot owner that such a product will resolve the many known inadequacies of the seed diet. However, the added vitamins have only been coated on the outside of the seed and are discarded along with the hull when eating. As Dr. Murphy writes, “Putting vitamins on the hulls of seeds is no different than putting vitamins on a candy bar wrapper and selling the candy to children as ‘vitamin-enriched candy.’”

All that said, however, seed can and should be a nutritious part of your parrot’s diet when fed wisely. As you will see when you examine the diet ideas at the end of this article, seed can be limited to 5% to 10% of the diet, can serve to help create a true foraging experience for your parrot at mealtime, and can also be used to convert a seed junkie or strictly pellet-eating parrot to a diet that contains an abundance of fresh raw foods and nutrient dense cooked whole grains, beans and legumes. Plus, when fed in limited quantities, seeds still remain a valuable source of essential fatty acids.

Vitamins and Minerals…Requirements and Sources

The psittacine diet must also provide vitamins and minerals. Vitamins are divided into two categories: fat soluble and water soluble. The fat soluble vitamins are A, D, E and K. All others are water soluble.

Vitamin A deficiency is frequently seen in companion parrots, especially those eating a seed diet. Birds manufacture their own vitamin A from beta-carotenes, which are found in reddish or orange vegetables and fruit. Good sources for vitamin A include sweet potatoes, yams, carrots, winter squash, apricots, parsnips, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, carrot tops, turnip greens, dandelion greens and mustard greens.

The respiratory system of all parrots contains hair-like structures called cilia that remove dust, bacteria and fungi from the air and trap them in mucus. A diet lacking in vitamin A causes the destruction of these structures, leaving the parrot without defense against disease organisms. Parrots also use beta-carotenes to manufacture feather pigments. Dull feather color is often an indicator of a diet lacking in vitamin A.

Other vitamins necessary to good growth and health include vitamins D, E, K, C, and the B vitamins. Birds can manufacture vitamin D when their skin is exposed to sunlight (or the correct frequencies of UV light), so that birds that spend more time outdoors may need a lower amount of this nutrient in their diet. Pellets contain adequate amounts of vitamin D. Both too little and too much vitamin D can be harmful to parrots. This is an area in which future research will benefit parrots in captivity.

Vitamin E is used for many metabolic processes. According to Joel Murphy, DVM, analysis of foods that parrot eat in the jungle reveals a high level of vitamin E.[vii] While the optimum amount in the diet is not known, effort should be made to feed some foods high in this nutrient.

Vitamin C is manufactured by the parrot’s body and is not usually considered a vitamin that needs supplementation. In times of stress or illness, however, the bird may not be able to manufacture adequate amounts of this vitamin and supplementation may be beneficial.

According to Dr. Joel Murphy, if a parrot is not eating 80% or more of its diet as pellets, vitamin supplementation should be provided by purchasing a powdered form of avian vitamins that can be sprinkled onto fresh foods.[viii]

Minerals also are necessary for good health. The most important mineral in the diet, and the major mineral in the parrot’s body, is calcium, which is used for bone and egg formation, muscle contraction, heart and nerve function and blood coagulation. Parrots eating a seed diet tend to, over time, develop a calcium deficiency, in addition to vitamin A deficiency. Seeds are low in calcium and high in phosphorus. The best food sources of calcium are almonds, apricots, beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, eggs, endive, figs, hazelnuts, kale, parsnips, tofu, and watercress.

Other minerals necessary in the diet include phosphorus, manganese, sodium, zinc, iodine. Sodium toxicity is frequently seen by veterinarians in parrots who consume human snack foods. Iodine deficiency will be seen in parrots eating a seed diet.

Trace minerals are needed in much lower amounts and include magnesium, iron, copper, selenium, chromium, silicon, vanadium, tin and nickel.

Putting It All Together

As stated above, feeding parrots a large variety of foods with good acceptance on their part is best accomplished by feeding mixes of foods. Below is a recipe for making a fresh food mix that only requires chopping fruits and vegetables once a week. It is a recipe I developed for feeding fresh foods to over 40 birds a week, so some modification of this is necessary when feeding only a small flock. However, this modification is easily accomplished. Following this set of instructions, are guidelines for converting any seed-eating or pellet-eating parrot to this diet in a slow, caring way that does not place the bird in a position of experiencing extreme hunger ever.

The Layered Fresh Food Mix and Diet Conversion
This diet has several advantages, not the least of which is that I can feed fresh foods to over 40 birds on a daily basis, while only chopping fruits and vegetables once a week. For those of you with only one or two birds, this idea can be modified easily.
Once a week, I layer in plastic storage containers (I use seven 2-gallon containers since I'm feeding so many birds) the following:

Layer 1 (bottom layer) - chopped greens, which are varied each week. One week, I'll use collard greens and parsley and mustard greens, and the next I might use Swiss chard, kale and dandelion greens. (If you have only one parrot, or a few parrots, just choose one type of greens, but vary this weekly.)

Layer 2 - chopped (1/4 to 1/2 inch cubes) green vegetables, including any of the following: Brussels sprouts, zucchini and other summer squash, jicama, red or green peppers, fresh hot peppers, chayote squash, jicama, green beans, fresh peas, cucumber, celery, anise root, etc.

Layer 3 - chopped broccoli and shredded carrots

Layer 4 - a mixture of chopped apples, oranges and whole grapes

Layer 5 - frozen mixed vegetables.

The containers are then placed in the refrigerator (don't freeze).

Issues of freshness: this mix stays fresh in these tubs for up to seven days for three reasons. First, layered salads stay fresher longer. Second, the orange juice from the chopped oranges filters down and slightly acidifies that mix. The frozen mixed vegetables placed on top super-cool the mix immediately (cold air sinks/warm air rises). I do also wash all the fruits, vegetables and greens with Oxyfresh Cleansing Gele, which not only gets them clean but also has some anti-bacterial action. (Any veggie wash will do if you can’t find the Oxyfresh products.)

Use: each morning, I empty out one container into a large mixing bowl. At that point, I add other foods that would not hold up or stay fresh in the layered mix, such as: soft fruits (blueberries, peaches, plums, kiwi fruits, melon, etc), sprouts, cooked grains (amaranth, quinoa, brown rice, barley, etc), uncooked whole wheat pasta, and cooked beans. The addition of a combination of cooked beans and cooked grains provides another source of complete protein in the diet.

Sometimes, in order to generate a little excitement, I'll sneak in a package of pine nuts or walnut pieces. Usually, I feed nuts separately, but I like to use this fresh mix to surprise the parrots as well.

Once everything from the tub is completely mixed together, I add enough of a very clean, high quality seed mix to make up 5% to 10% of this mix. I might also add a scoop of pellets. This is then mixed together and fed to the birds. (Pellets are optional, but their inclusion into this mix at some point can help with their introduction.)

This recipe can be adapted for any number of birds with a little creativity, by reducing either the number or size of the containers used or both. For just one medium-sized parrot, such as an African Grey, you can create three containers, each holding about 4 cups. One container will keep for about two days, even after being opened and mixed up. It may take some playing around to find the right-sized containers, as well as the right amount of veggies and fruits to include, in terms of variety – but it will be well worth it. I promise you!

Advantages:
1. There's no need to chop fresh foods every day.

2. Parrots are very visual creatures. If you stick a bird feeder outside, it will take the wild birds at least two weeks to start to feed from it. When fruits and vegetables are fed singly, or in large pieces, or in small combinations, and you add something new, it is likely to be rejected solely on the basis of the fact that it is visually unfamiliar. When you feed a mix like this, you can put anything into it and it will be accepted because the appearance of the mix hasn't changed overall. This allows you to introduce more variety into the diet, which in turn will encourage better health.

3. This mix is exciting for the birds, and allows them a true foraging experience. They never know what they're going to find in their food dishes and show considerable interest when I feed them. A huge amount of variety can be achieved. Greens and the types of vegetables used vary from week to week. The pasta shapes are varied (alphabet, whole wheat, elbow, etc.). You can use other types of citrus instead of oranges, including grapefruit, lemons, tangerines, etc. Instead of grapes, you can substitute fresh blueberries and pitted ripe cherries, or fresh cranberries.

4. Parrots that won't eat pellets, often will when they are combined into this mix as directed above because (1) they are part of an exciting mix, and (2) they will be slightly softened by absorbing some of the moisture from the mix.

5. I leave this in the cages from 7:00 am until 4:00 pm, which you can't do with mixes that have been frozen or cooked. Since the majority of the foods are neither cooked nor frozen, they stay fresher longer. Bacterial growth is increased by temperature, moisture, and the breakdown of cell walls. This mix tends to be relatively dry, because the pasta and pellets absorb the vast majority of the moisture. Further the cell walls in the fruits and vegetables are largely intact because they have not been broken down by either freezing or cooking. In hot weather, it tends to desiccate rather than spoil.

And lastly,

6. Seed junkies can easily by converted to a fresh food diet using this mix and a methodical approach, which I have outlined below.

Converting a hard-core seed junkie to a fresh food diet:
1. Begin with four dishes in the cage – (1) pellets of choice (no dyes or preservatives hopefully), (2) a high quality seed mix, (3) water and (4) the fresh food mix into which you have mixed seed. The latter will not be eaten for several weeks. Get over it. Serve the fresh food mix twice a day, in the morning and in the late afternoon or evening, for the sole purpose of creating a pattern of feeding and allowing the bird to get used to looking at it. Note: the fresh food mix should have a ratio of 50% seed and 50% fresh foods from the recipe above (pellets optional). Try not to provide table food or “treats” between these two feeding times.

2. The day you see the bird exploring the fresh food mix in order to eat the seed out of it, you make the following change: In the morning, you remove the seed dish and have only three dishes in the cage – (1) pellets, (2) water and (3) the fresh mix. In the evening, you again feed the fresh food mix, but give the seed dish back. We don't want a bird undergoing diet conversion to be hungry. A hungry, anxious bird does not make behavioral changes gracefully.

3. The day you see the bird with a piece of fresh food in his mouth, or observe that he has eaten some of it, you eliminate the seed dish completely from his cage and from this point onward you won’t be feeding seed at all, except as part of the fresh food mix. From that point onward, you provide only three dishes – (1) water, (2) pellets, and (3) the fresh mix that is 50% seed and 50% fresh foods.

4. A month later, and on each succeeding month, you decrease the amount of seed in the mix until it is down to between 5 - 10% of the mix. So, for instance, if you remove the seed dish on February 1, then on March 1, you will begin to feed a mix that is 40% seed and 60% fresh mix. On April 1, you will begin to feed 30% seed and 70% fresh foods. And so on.

Other Mixes….

As I stated above, in addition to this fresh mix, I also serve two other mixes to my flock. These consist of a basic birdie bread, into which any number of ingredients can be added, and a cooked grain mix. The recipe for the grain mix is as follows:

The Cooked Grain Mix

The second mix I regularly use is fed in late afternoon, every other day or so, and removed before bed, since cooked foods will deteriorate more quickly. The basic mix is as follows:

1 cup quinoa (a grain high in calcium and protein, that is found in health food stores)

2 cups water

2 cups grated yams (or other vegetable high in Vitamin A)

fresh corn kernels cut from two cobs corn or 1 cup frozen corn

1 cup grated green vegetables

½ cup grated nuts (Brazil, almonds, or walnuts)

½ cup unhulled sesame seed (from the health food store)

½ cup canary seed

Bring the water to a boil and add the quinoa. Bring back to a boil, cover, turn heat down and simmer for 5 minutes. Add yams, cover again and cook for 10 minutes longer or until liquid is absorbed. Turn into a bowl, add other ingredients, and mix gently. Serve warm. (A rice cooker can also be used to cook a mixture of grains, water and shredded yams.)

Variety is introduced into this mix by substituting different grains for the quinoa (this might require a longer cooking time), carrots, pumpkin or winter squash for the yams, varying the green vegetable used, and alternating nut varieties.

Third, about twice a week, I will feed a cornbread or muffin. I use a standard cornbread recipe, making sure I use whole grain cornmeal from the health food store and whole-wheat flour. Any number of ingredients can be added to this mix, including grated vegetables and fruits, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, raw sunflower seeds, creamed corn, grated low-fat cheese, diced green chilies, etc. An endless number of nutritious additions can be added to a basic mix, thereby once again increasing the variety your parrot gets in his diet.

I have had excellent success with my own flock when feeding these three mixes of foods. Not only do they display vibrant, exquisitely-colored plumage free of stress bars, but they are sassy, loud, active birds who enjoy life to the fullest. They demonstrate their delight in receiving a new dish of food twice a day. For years, I have had no disease problems at all. Truly, the key to avoiding disease in parrots is to feed them in such a manner that they enjoy the healthiest of immune systems, and we achieve this by feeding a huge variety of healthful foods from each of the categories I have outlined, in the percentages dictated by our currently scant knowledge.

Housing Your Pet Parrot

2010-06-27T02:28:00.000-07:00

The environment your pet parrot lives in could quite literally mean the difference between a healthy bird with normal behavior and a sick bird with behavioral problems, and even in some instances life and death!

Choosing your pet's cage is very important, as in the wild a bird would spend much of it's day flying from tree to tree in search of food and at play. In captivity, one must allow for some sort of exercise, entertainment and self-expression as your bird can't leave its cage unless someone lets it out. It is very important to choose the correct cage for your pet to allow it to be happy while you are out of the house or at work, as it will be left in its cage for a large part of the day. That is why not just any old cage will do. Keep in mind the species of parrot you intend keeping, and what would be suitable for you and more important the bird. Consider how much space you can spare in your home (hopefully, if you have little space, you would not consider buying a large Macaw!).
The first step in providing a comfortable environment for your bird is the cage itself. Buy the largest cage you can afford that is suitable for both your home and the bird. At minimum, in the design of any bird cage the diameter or shortest dimension of the floor should be at least twice the span of the fully extended both wings, and the minimum height at least one and half times the overhaul length from head to tip of tail of the largest bird to be kept in the cage. This is based on one bird per cage, if two birds are to be kept in the cage then these dimensions must be increased by a minimum of 50%.
The cage bar spacing is critical. The species being kept in the cage should never be able to put their heads through the bars of their cage. The danger is that birds have been known to put their head through the bars, get stuck, and not be able to get back in. The cage bar thickness must also be taken into account as larger parrots have very powerful beaks and would in no time bend and possibly break thin bars. It is also better if the cage has some horizontal bars for the bird to climb up and down. While birds can navigate up and down vertical bars, it is more difficult.
There are numerous designs to suite all tastes. Generally a rectangular metal cage, preferably longer than it is tall, is the best as it allows the bird to hop from perch to perch. Tall, narrow cages prove to be rather impractical, as most birds do NOT fly straight up and down. Round cages create a situation in which every perch across its width is in some way directly over the perch below it. This leads to constant soiling with faeces of all lower perches, as in this shape cage the bird is only able to perch in one position or climb the side of the cage, which can also lead to food and water containers being soiled with faeces.
In the lower price range, there are cages made of wire. The wire may or may not be painted or powder-coated. These cages come in sizes suitable up to a medium sized parrot such as a Pionus. If you choose a wire cage, be sure that the wire is not made of a metal that is toxic, and that if painted the paint does not contain lead.
Many more expensive cages are made of iron or steel and are then sandblasted and powder-coated but as before, be sure the coating is not toxic and that any paint does not contain lead. These cages are durable, long lasting, and withstand busy beaks and escape artists. Look for the following on all metal cages that all welds are smooth with no sharp edges. All doors should be escape-proof or easily made to lock with a clip or lock. Stainless-steel cages are the best as they are non-toxic, indestructible, easy to keep clean, but cost wise are very expensive but in the long run is by far better value for your money. When buying a cage, one of the most important things to think about is the expected life span of the bird compared to saving money on a cage.
Careful consideration must also be given to the choice of perches used, as your Pet Parrot will spend most of its time while in his cage standing on one. The best perches are natural tree branches. Providing nontoxic, washed, fresh branches such as apple, elm, ash, maple or willow will be both functional and attractive in the cage. Natural branches should be selected such that a variety of diameters are available to perch on. This affords various textures, choice of grip and good exercise for the feet, they also provide entertainment value for those birds that like to chew. Wood is more difficult to disinfect due to its porous nature perches must therefore be washed and replaced often.
I have seen cages with Sandpaper covered perches (not recommended) this type of perch will do little to wear the nails down and can lead to serious foot irritation, sores or deep infections. Plastic perches are commonly used although not recommended, they are easy to clean and disinfect but may prove slippery for gripping and seem to only be available in a couple of sizes. Larger Parrots may chew and splinter the plastics into sharp pieces.
Water and food dishes are best made from stainless steel that are easy to clean and disinfect every day and should be attached securely to the side of the cage. The dishes should not be too deep or food will be wasted. Position the dishes such that they are easily accessible and will not be accidentally soiled with faeces. They should never be on the bottom of the cage since this is the bird's "toilet". Many pet parrots enjoy a good bath so once in a while a large shallow dish of water can be provided. Some birds like to be misted with a fine tepid water spray. Try this a few times and see how your bird reacts.
Whether you are home with your bird or not, a pet must have some form of entertainment as being cooped up in a cage all day can be a very frustrating and boring experience. They love to explore and play with toys, which may include rope, stainless steel mirrors, bells, hanging toys pieces of wood to chew
There are no quality controls or regulations to provide safe toys. Therefore great care must be taken to ensure the toys purchased are free from potential dangers. The following could be dangerous, clasps, bell clappers, open chain links, removable parts, easily broken parts, natural hemp or cotton rope seems to provide a variety of texture but must be monitored carefully so that the fine fibers do not become entangled around the bird's toes. This is a much more serious problem with synthetic fiber rope. These should never be used. Rubber toys can be very dangerous as they are easily chewed apart and must be avoided. Make sure toys are large enough not to be swallowed.
It pays to experiment with toys etc, and find out what your bird enjoys the most. Some birds even like to hide in boxes or paper bags. You may even like to have an assortment of toys that can be rotated every week to keep the bird from getting bored. All toys should be periodically washed and disinfected. It is essential to rinse well after washing with clean water.
The cage needs to be located where the bird gets lots of interaction with you and the family. It is not advisable to locate the cage in a room where the sudden appearance of anyone coming and going into the room will startle or frighten the bird. The cage should be against a wall to give the feeling of security, other birds need added security and prefer to be in a corner or to have their cage partially covered. Situate the cage where it receives some natural light to keep your bird healthy. Avoid it being exposed in a window, as excessive sunshine or people moving about outside may cause distress, especially if your bird is in view of any type of predator (like cats). Never locate it near or in a kitchen as several kitchen processes give of fumes that will be toxic to your bird. Other potential hazards are drafty places and excessive temperature fluctuations. Normal house temperatures of 21-27° C (70-80° F) are tolerated well by pet birds.
Many parrots need some extra humidity in the air. Humidifiers work well if you are diligent about disinfecting them. Many species of parrots create a "dust" that can cause them and even humans, breathing problems. An air purifier is a must in any home keeping pet parrots. Parrots should NEVER be exposed to cigarette or cigar smoke, burning candles, incense etc.

Visual Sexing Of Grey Parrots

2010-06-26T11:06:00.000-07:00

Most African parrots can be easily sexed after they have molted once. While it is not advisable to determine the sex visually for breeder pairs, identifying the sex of a pet for an owner (without DNA sexing or surgical sexing) will make owners happy. African grey parrots (Psittacus erithacus erithacus) are usually easy to sex. Males have a solid red tail on the underside (the secondary retrices), while those of the hen are tipped in silver. While examining proven pairs, this has proven to be accurate in over 95% of the pairs. Also, with male greys, the underside of the wings is very dark, while those of the hen are lighter grey. This only holds true for the nominate species, and not for the Timneh grey

2010-06-26T10:19:00.000-07:00

THE BLACKFACE BUDGERIGAR

2010-06-26T08:54:00.000-07:00

In 1998 I read an article about "blackface" budgerigars in a magazine from the Netherlands, because of my interest of new mutations I wonder if the breeder would let me see these birds. I had to wait until September 1999 to make an appointment with Mr. Van Dijk and after a trip of 4 hours we finally arrived. What we saw was small pet type budgerigars but so different from what we usually expect.

It was in 1992 that Mr. Van Dijk discovered two blue cocks with black undulated masks and black striped markings on their breast. He decided to buy the birds and breed with them. The first year the birds were mated to normal grey hens. Out of these matings normal blues and greys were produced.
During the second year he mated the young hens back to the original cocks; only one pairing produced a few blackfaces.

After test mating, Mr. Van Dijk concluded that the mutation was recessive. For the moment there is no evidence that the mutation is linked to any other mutation, the fact is that in the offspring we found some recessive pieds and even one blackface with a white spot on the head. According to Mr. Van Dijk breeding blackfaces is not so easy. For the moment his stock contains about 13 blackfaces and many "splits" or I must say "maybe splits"
To establish this mutation to a good standard standards will take a lot of time, and it would be helpful if Mr. Dijk let other breeders take some of his blackfaces to work with. In my opinion this is the only way to ensure the continuation of the mutation.
I asked myself what would happen if his birds became ill? The mutation could disappear and perhaps the way to breed black budgies in the future along with it.

Possible matings:

Blackface x normal = 100% normal / blackface

Normal/blackface x normal/blackface = 25% normals, 50% normal/blackface, 25% blackface

Blackface x normal/blackface = 50% normal/blackface, 50% blackface

Normal/blackface x normal = 50% normal, 50% normal/blackface

Blackface x blackface = 100% blackface

BUDGERIGAR

2010-06-26T08:44:00.000-07:00

BUYING A BUDGERIGAR
Before going out to buy a budgerigar, you should make up your mind where
your interest lies. Do you want a friendly pet, which will learn to talk ? Or do
you want to breed these beautiful little parakeets?
If it is a pet you want, you must buy a young cock bird which is still in its baby
feathering. Hens will learn to talk, but cocks are much easier to teach. If you
buy from an experienced pet shop owner or an established breeder of
budgerigars he or she will be almost certain which chicks are cocks and which
are hens. If a mistake is made, many breeders will be willing to exchange your
chick for another. They usually prefer to keep more hens than cocks.
What to look for when buying a pet budgerigar
When you think you have found the budgerigar you would like as a pet, take a
good look at it and check out several things.
1. Is the bird a young cock ?
Young budgerigars do not have a white ring around the eye. This makes
them look wide-eyed and cuddly. On many varieties the black or brown
lines, seen on the back of an adult’s head, come right to the front of the
head. For this reason, young budgerigars are known as Bar Heads. Some
young birds have black, or dark brown, beaks. The fleshy part, just above
the beak, is known as the Cere. It is the colour of the cere which shows
whether a budgerigar is a cock or a hen. The cere of a young cock shows
a purplish-pink-tinge. A young hen’s cere is more white, with either a
biscuit or pale blue tinge. Because an adult cock bird’s cere is blue, many
people make the mistake of thinking that a blue tinge on a very young
budgerigar’s cere means that it is a cock.
2. Is it healthy ?
A bird which looks happy and bright, moving about busily, is a fit bird. A
wide-open bright eye is another good sign. Any bird which sits quietly,
with its eyes partly closed and feathers fluffed up should not be bought.
3. Is the beak properly formed?
If the lower part of the beak overlaps the upper (undershot) or the upper
part looks too long (overshot) choose another bird. These conditions can
cause difficulty in eating and – if you decide to use the bird for breeding
at a later date – they can be passed on to chicks.
4. Does the beak look shiny?
Any bird with a crusty look to its beak could be suffering from Scaly
Face and is best avoided. The bird you buy should have a clean, shiny
beak.
5. Are the feathers under the vent clean?
If a bird has dirty vent feathers it may have a stomach upset. It is best left
and another one chosen.
CAGE SIZES
Whether you are going to buy a pet budgerigar, or more than one for breeding,
it is best to have a cage ready for when you arrive home. This will mean that
the bird will be put straight into its own home and not be disturbed by being
kept in some temporary housing.
If you are going to keep a pet budgerigar in the house there are lots of designs
of cage available in pet shops. Nearly all of them will house your budgerigar
safely and comfortably. It is best to buy the largest cage you can afford,
remembering that it has to fit in one of your rooms at home. Cages with plastic
bottoms, which can be removed, are easily disinfected. Cages with metal
bottoms can become rusty after a time. Some pet cages have perches which are
too small in diameter. Perches should be no smaller than 12mm diameter.
Perches of different sizes, say one 12mm and the other 15mm are ideal. But
perches are easily changed, so if you find a cage which suits you, do not be put
off by the perches. Change them.
Further details on choosing a cage for your pet can be found in Fact Sheet 1.
EQUIPMENT
The equipment you need for your cage consists mainly of feeding utensils. You
can use dishes and bowls, not made specially for budgerigars, but it is better to
use drinkers and feeders which have been specially designed.
If you give water in an open dish it will soon become full of seed husks and
droppings, and will not be clean enough for your budgerigar to drink. Your pet
will also play in the water at a time when you do not want him to get wet. You
also have to open the door to put the water dish into the cage. The best utensil
for giving water is a plastic water fountain. This clips on to the outside of the
cage, will not fill up with seed husks or droppings and can be changed
without opening the cage door.
The fountain inside the cage is too small for your budgerigar to be able to bathe
when you do not want him to. The open dish, already in the pet cage when you
buy it, can be used for grit.
An open dish is better for seed than for water but still has the problems that
droppings can get in with the seed and the cage door has to be opened for
refilling. A larger version of the water fountain can be bought, with the same
advantages. When using with seed you should read the instructions carefully.
There is a gap in the plastic tube which needs to be lined up with the feeding
outlet so that the seed can flow freely. It is best to buy a clip to hold a piece of
cuttle fish bone which budgerigars like to eat. This stops the bone getting dirty
by lying around on the cage floor.
Budgerigars love to take a bath. Specially designed baths can be bought from
pet shops which fit over the cage door opening. The advantage of these is that
you can decide the best time for your pet to bathe and the rest of the cage does
not get wet.
Although not essential, toys can keep budgerigars happy when you are not at
home. Pet shops stock a wide range of toys which includes ladders, mirrors and
bells. You will be able to choose the toys you think your pet will like best – but
do not put too many in the cage at one time or the cage will become overcrowded.
GENERAL MANAGEMENT
The management of a budgerigar is very simple. It need take only a few
minutes each day, with an extra effort once a week when cleaning out. This
means that, when you buy a budgerigar, you will be able to look after it
properly and still have plenty of time to enjoy its company.
You need to find a good position for your budgerigar’s cage. A cool, airy place
is best, so avoid draughts and direct sunshine. This means that placing a cage in
a window is not a good idea. Being placed in a draught can cause your
budgerigar to become ill.
The position of seed and water feeders is also important. Seed and water must
never be placed in a position where your bird’s droppings can get into them.
Under a perch is the worst possible place. The same is true of any other item
you put into the cage such as cuttlefish bone, millet sprays, greens, fruit and
even toys. Find a position where they will stay clean.
Both seed and water need your attention every day. The water container should
be washed and then rinsed thoroughly, before being refilled with fresh water.
When a fountain type feeder is used for seed it should be checked every day to
see that there is plenty of seed inside and that the outlet for the seed is not
blocked. Seed husks are not usually a problem with this type of feeder. If it
looks as though the level of seed has not gone down, check at once. This can mean that there is a blockage and that your budgerigar cannot get at its seed.
When seed is fed in an open dish the empty seed husks tend to lie on top. These
need to be blown off every day, taking care not to get a seed husk in your eye.
When the seed husks are gone you will be able to see how much seed is left in
the dish. Even then, check once more as sometimes you will find a layer of dust
in the bottom of the dish. Fill up the seed dish every day. And remember finally,
your pet budgerigar will sleep better if you place a piece of light cloth over its
cage late in the evening.
CLEANING
Any pet needs to be cleaned out regularly. It depends on you to keep the
housing and equipment clean. Budgerigars need to be cleaned out at least once
a week. You can buy sandpaper sheets from a pet shop which make cleaning
out very simple, as far as the floor of the cage is concerned. It is just a matter of
removing the old sheet and putting a new sheet in its place. Budgerigars often
chew these sandsheets. This does them no harm. It is a little cheaper to use bird
sand on the floor of a cage, but it will take a little more time to remove the sand
and to replace it.
In breeding cages, wood shavings are often used to cover the cage floor. These
are not so good in pet cages as they tend to come out of the cage when the
budgerigar flutters its wings. If you do decide to use wood shavings, buy them
from a pet shop. Shavings bought from a wood yard could make your bird ill.
The cheapest of all cage floor coverings is a piece of newspaper. This works
well but does not look so attractive as the others.
About once a month you should disinfect the cage and equipment. Use a mild
disinfectant and rinse feeders and water containers well in clean water before
refilling them. Disinfectant should be used more often if a budgerigar has a
stomach upset and its droppings are green instead of the normal black and
white. Perches need special attention when cleaning out. They can become very
dirty with the birds own droppings which, if left, get hard and could damage a
budgerigar’s feet. Perches should be scrubbed with disinfectant, rinsed and
dried before being put back in the cage.
TRAINING
Budgerigars kept in breeding cages and flights do not need training. But a lot of
the pleasure of keeping a pet budgerigar is seeing how easy it is to train.
First you need to gain your pet’s confidence and, although you may find it
difficult, you must leave the bird alone for the first day after you have put it
into the cage. This will give it time to settle down after all the upset of being
moved. It may sit quietly at first but as it becomes more sure of itself it will investigate the cage and start to chirp. When you go to the cage say the same
two words, quietly, over and over again. If you are good at training these will
be the first two words your pet will say. “Hello”, followed by its name or
“Pretty Boy” are good starter words.
When you are sure that your pet is not afraid of you, gently open the cage door
and slowly put your hand into the cage. If the bird panics, slowly remove your
hand, close the door and wait until it settles down before trying again. When
the bird accepts your hand in its cage, extend your first finger and place it
gently against its chest. You may find that your budgerigar will step on to your
finger at this point. If it does not, then press your finger gently against the
bird’s chest. This almost always causes it to step onto your finger. Still moving
very slowly, gently transfer your pet to another perch. It will soon get used to
this and know what to expect when next you do it.
When your budgerigar has learned this lesson well, you can try bringing it out
of the cage. But before doing so there are several things to check to make sure
it will be safe. Make sure that all doors and windows are closed. If you have an
open fireplace, make sure that it is guarded. Pull the curtain across any clear
glass windows, or your pet, not knowing that there is any glass there, will fly
into it and may damage itself. If you have a cat or dog make sure that they are
not in the room. When your bird flies around the room watch what it is doing as
budgerigars will chew papers and house plants if left to do it.
If your budgerigar has learned its lesson well, you should have no difficulty
getting it back into its cage. Just follow the method used when training to get it
on to your finger and put your hand back into the cage. If it forgets its training
and refuses to come to your hand you have more of a problem. First darken the
room, which will permit you to get close, without your pet flying off. Then
throw a soft cloth over it to capture it. When handling a budgerigar, always
hold its wings firmly to its body, in their natural position. You must be firm
enough to prevent the bird hurting itself, but not so firm as to hurt it yourself.
By placing your thumb on one side of the budgerigar’s face, your fore-finger on
the back of its head and your second finger on the other side of its face, with
the wings and body in the palm of your hand, you will be holding the bird
safely. Then return it to the cage. Carry on training your pet to stand on your
finger until you can return it to the cage without capturing it.
When your budgerigar is standing on your finger see if it will let you gently
stroke its head and beak. It it does, your training is going well. Always move
slowly and gently as if you frighten your pet it will take much longer for it to
become tame. Repeating the same two word phrase over and over again, to
reassure your budgerigar, will have made a start to teaching it to talk. Do not
change the words until it has learned to say the first two. The more often you repeat the words the quicker your pet will learn them. Once it has learned the
first words you can start teaching another two. If you are a good teacher it will
not be long before your budgerigar knows lots of words. Some birds can repeat
complete nursery rhymes – although they do get mixed up sometimes – which
makes everyone laugh.

This fact sheet has been produced for:
The NCA —Spring Gardens, Northampton NN1 1DR

KEEPING GRASS PARAKEETS SPECIES IN PAKISTAN

2010-06-26T08:37:00.000-07:00

One of the most beautiful parakeets origionated form australian open lands where the temperature remains same whole year.Bourke,Elegant,Turqouisine and scarlet chested all are in neophema species.Neophemas are some of the World's most perfect birds. They are the size of a budgerigar, with pleasant-sounding voices and few vices. They come in a rainbow of brilliant colors, and their versatility in the wild makes them adaptable aviary birds. Also known as Australian Grass Parakeets, they include the popular Bourke (N. bourkii), Scarlet-chested (N. splendida), Turquoisine (N. pulchella) and Elegant (N. elegans) parakeets, and lesser know Rock and Orange-bellied Parakeets.Neophema parakeets are popular aviary birds because of their beauty and peaceful temperament. Aviculturists around the world appreciate them. The birds nondestructive nature and pleasant chirping make them easy to keep in all kinds of situations. Grass parakeets have been successfully bred in captivity for many years, making them hardy and good reproducers. And, for those who have mastered breeding various species, there is always the challenge of a wide variety of intriguing mutations.
The birds are small, which allows for the housing of many individual pairs. This appeals to aviculturists who are interested in keeping diverse bloodlines and collecting their mutations. Birdkeepers who house an assortment of birds in planted flights can add one pair of grass parakeets and appreciate these colorful gems in their entire splendor.
It is tempting to keep these birds as pets, since their colors outshine the comparatively plain budgerigar. These birds, however, have quiet, introverted personalities; they are not as outgoing or charismatic as budgies. Grass parakeets are best enjoyed in aviaries or flight cages.
Accomodation according to climate of pakistan.
These parakeets are very sensitive to sudden weather change and cold and wet condations.Therefore sensible breeders keep them in roomy avairy where the average temperature is not less than 20 C.Except for the more sedentary Bourke, Neophemas are busybodies. They spend their day running around the cage bottom and eating or flying around their flights. To accommodate these energetic creatures, they are best housed in aviaries or large flight cages.
I keep my grasskeets in off-the ground flight cages, approximately 2x2xr. This adds to the sense of security the birds feel, resulting in better breeding. This size cage works well for me.but larger is the better.These birds are non destructive in nature so,you can planted their avairy by some nontoxic plants(I planted my cages with bamboo plants because they are non toxic and best in vitamin A,B and iron.
For the hobbyist with a mixed aviary, grass parakeets are certainly worth considering. Bourkes and Scarlet-chesteds get along well with Cockatiels, finches and doves. Turquoisines and Elegants can also be kept in community flights, although they can be quarrelsome during breeding season. However, winters are very cold in pakistan .it is best to keep them in indoor avairyand in summers they should be placed outdoors to enjoy sun.
Availability.
In pakistan the bourkes are fairly kept by experienced breeders.Therefore,other species are very rare in Pakistan.Prices range from 4000 to 6000 according to mutation.most popular mutation is rosa bourke,lutino bourke and normals.
DIET.
In wild the love to eat grass seeds,buds from trees and sometimes larvae from soil.In captivity sunflower seeds,hemps,oats.dehusked rice, ,millets(cheena,bajra,kangani etc)are sufficient diets.They also like to eat greens but not as much as compared to other australian parakeets.Water is to be served fresh and should be changed 2 times a days.
Breeding.
Neophemas are very prolific breeders and give up to 3 clutches a year but its its recomended to not to be breed in winter because of high mortality of chicks.Best breeding months for neophema are sep to nov and from feb to may.If u have extra heating faucility u can also bred them in indoor in winters.Lovebird sized box(8x8x10) give me best results.Hen usually lay 4 to 6 eggs and incubate them alone for 18 days while male feeds her and take cares of her.Chicks are indepandant after 45 days then removed to large cage for strength and parents renest them once again.Humidity level in air plays an important roll in hatching of eggs.I usually spray water around the box when the hatching is near.
EXTRA CARE.
These birds need some extra care.Avoided birds can become ill .They need their cage clean on daily basis.Feed should be clean and free from pesticides.Scrub the feeding and water bowls twice a day.

BY AHMED USMAN JAVED

KEEPING AND BREEDING RED RUMPED PARAKEET IN CLIMATE OF PAKISTAN

2010-06-26T08:32:00.000-07:00

Description.
One of the most popular breed in aviculture.Red rumps are native to australian open wood lands and shrubs areas.average size of these birds are 28 cm long, Bluish Green. Nape, breast, upper tail coverts light green. Rump red, abdomen yellow, under tail coverts grey-white. Greenish yellow patch on the anterior wing coverts. Primary coverts and shoulder blue. Beak black, iris brown, legs grey. The hens are a greyish olive green and have a grey beak. The red patch on the rump is absent. Immature birds resemble the female, young males often already have red feathers on the rump. The species owes its name to the melodious call note. Blue and yellow mutations. The cock is mainly green with a yellow underside (with orange undertones). The back is light red with yellow undertones. The under tail coverts are white, sometimes with a little green. The wings are mainly blue and the shoulder yellow. The upper tail coverts are green and the central tail feathers are green with blue undertones. Outer tail feathers are blue with lighter edges. The eyes are brown, the beak is black, and the feet are grey. The hen is mainly olive-greenish-brown a little orange in the neck and belly. It has a blue shoulder patch and a grey beak. The young are at first, similar to the hen, but the young females already have a pale beak.there r many mutations bred by breeders including pied,blue,lutino,cinnamon,opaline and rubino.
Feeding.
Being of grassy land their basic diet consists of grass seeds,leafs and buds from trees and mealworm rearly.how ever in aviculture they like to eat sunflower seeds,millets(cheena,bajra,kangani)and very little hemps seeds and dehusked rice.these birds has metabolism that cannot be able to utilize excess fats and become overweight.their diet consists of 60%carbohydrates and 35%proteins and only 5%of fats.leafy vegetables are well appriciated by red rumps.In pakistan it is easy to find the organic grown vegetables(desi vegetables)free from pesticides.some people give them bread soaked in milk which is harmful to birds because milk contains lactose which is only digested by mammals and birds donot contain a enzyme called lactasa which is important for digestion of milk sugar.if they regularly fed by milk they can create intestinal problems as well as kidney failure.milk must be avoided in their diet.u can soak bread in warm water.Another thing is that donot mix vitamin supplement in their water because it causes bectaria growth like e.coli and salmonella which can seriously damaged your birds health.i usually sprinkle supplement on soaked bread or mix them in seeds.they need fresh water everyday and enjoys bathing.
Care and accomodation of red rumps in the climate of Pakistan.
Our country pakistan is situated in the region where the winter season is very cold and summers are very hot.red rumps can tolerate temperature about 45 c high in summer and 5 c in winter.red rumps are good flyers and should be provided a flying space to keep them smart because these birds r very prone to obesity.2.5hx2.5depthx3feet long cage is ideal for their accomodation and breeding.red rumps r hardy birds and adjust themselves in sorroundings.red rumps love to feed on ground and spent most of their time nibbling on ground.It is important to deworm ur birds once in every 3 months.perches of different size must be provided for their feet shape.In winter i usually cover my avairies with plastic sheets to avoid air ventilation because my avairies a placed in open air but if u kept ur birds in roomy avairy they dont need to be covered by sheets just shut the doors.try to let sunlight come into room if possible give them full spectrum artificial lights(warm light murcury bulbs by philips are easily available in pakistani electric stores)light makes an important role in absorption of vitamin D.In pakistan some breeders provide their birds air coolers. it increases the humidity level in the room which can cause bectaria to growth.i usually put some dettol (5ml/5ltrs)in water but if u have open air avairy then u can use air cooler.
Breeding in Pakistan.
Red rumps r good breeders and can give 3 cont. clutches in season.breedin season starts in pakistan in late september till may.their average clutch size is 4 to 6 eggs.ocassionally 8.ideal age for their breeding is 1.5 year old pair but they can breed in 1 year of age.red rumps r very good p[arents and raised ther youngs very carefully.only female incubate the eggd while male look after her and feeds her.incubation period consists of 18 to 21 days ang fledgeling comes out of nest after 40 days and become indepandant another two weeks and parents renest themselves once again.youngs birds are very shy and flighty so take care and donot make a sudden appearance to them.the ideallt temperature for good results is 10 to 28c.donot let them breed in mid winter or in freezing season.i personally recomended two clutches in a year.nest box size recomendation is 10x10x18.sibbling breeding should be avoided in red rumps specially in lutino mutation.I dont let them breed in summer because of excessive heat.iplanted my avairies with neem plants and some indoor plants which controls the heat and humidity level in air.

BY AHMED USMAN.
0300-4641923
042-8484881