Made By Meg

What's the Weirdest Thing You've Ever Made?

2013-05-17T08:00:00.000-07:00

If you had asked me that question last week, I probably would have said a rock climbing chalk bag. But oh! How the times have changed!

As many of you sewing buddies know, when you sew you get weird requests. I have said it before. But this is beyond my imagination. The other day, my friend asked if I'd make him a high-fashion adult diaper. A HIGH FASHION DIAPER?!

I asked why. Apparently he was to take part in a very San Francisco fashion show wearing a sweater made out of baby socks. He was allowed to style it however he wanted, and wanted to style it with a high fashion diaper.

I asked to see examples of this designer's work. Here you go.

I asked for some inspiration pics:

What's a girl to do? Even though I was super busy that week, I had him deliver some fabric (stripes?!) and traced off an exaggerated bikini bottom.Adjusted. Cut. Sewed. He said he wanted the stripes to be vertical to elongate the legs...

And here it is! The weirdest thing I have ever made:

front view

back view

runway view

On the plus side, as my new sewing buddy put it, I can now say I've shown my work in a fashion show!

Does this happen to anybody else, or is this just a San Francisco sewist's dilemma??

In other news, if you're looking to make something a bit more normal for your man, make sure to check out my GIVEAWAY!

Blog Celebration and Giveaway!

2013-05-15T09:21:00.005-07:00

A sewing/blogging goal of mine for this year has been to get more involved in the online sewing community - getting to know some more people and taking advantage of what you all have to offer. This week, I reached a milestone with 200 followers! More than a vanity thing (200 people like me? Maybe? Sorta?), having followers and following other people's blogs helps create that strong community where people comment with advice, support, and inspiration! It has been so much fun watching that activity grow on my little blog, and am so grateful for all the love and input I've received from this amazing community.

So, to celebrate this growing network, today I am doing a pattern giveaway from a company that is brand new to the community: one lucky winner will receive a free pdf copy of Thread Theory's inaugural pattern, the Newcastle Cardigan! The pattern just became available for sale today, so if you don't win the pattern here, all you have to do is hop on over to their pattern store and get one for yourself! Here's my version, below:

To enter to win the Newcastle Cardigan Pattern:

If you already follow my blog, just leave a comment below telling me what you'd like to sew for the men in your life! Bonus entry if you tell me if you start to follow, or already do follow, the Thread Theory blog!

If you're new to the blog, please follow me on the reader of your choice (I recommend Bloglovin!) to help my sewing community grow! Comment to let me know you're a new follower, and tell me what you'd like to sew for the men in your life. Bonus entry if you tell me if start to follow, or already do follow, the Thread Theory blog!

The contest will close in one week on Wednesday at 10am PST. As it is a printable pdf pattern, this contest is open to anyone in the world!

Good luck, and happy sewing!

Meg Made May!

2013-05-14T08:00:00.000-07:00

Wow! Me(g) Made May is almost halfway over and I feel like it has just begun! This first half of the month has seen me through many challenges already, including TWO trips - one to Vegas for fun and one to Detroit for work. I also hadn't done laundry yet, so I think there are some goodies spinning in the dry cycle downstairs ready for next week!

Many people talk about rushing to do some mid-MMM sewing, but I like to see just where the past year of sewing has taken me - lying in the bed that I've made, so to speak. Compared to last year, my first MMM, I have a lot more pants but a smaller selection of blouses as I've culled a fair amount from my collection that just didn't fit right. I have been focusing on more purposeful sewing this past year, and I'm hoping that this will be a chance to reflect on the holes in my wardrobe as well as celebrate the succeses and things I reach for everyday!

That said, I'm off to make a blouse that I've been thinking about for a while now, and I'm hoping to finish it before the craziness of the rest of the month kicks in: one more trip, a friend in town, and maybe some painting for a new place...

Here's the roundup for the first half of the month:

*The Work Week*

Wednesday, May 1: Striped Dress - not yet blogged

*Vegas*

Thursday, May 2: Flower Pants for my flight to Vegas!

Friday, May 3: Cutout Dress - Vegas night 1

Saturday, May 4: Vegas Billie Jean

Sunday, May 5: Flare Drape Dress for travel home

*The Work Week*

Monday, May 6: Work week - Striped Shirt (made from too-short dress)

Tuesday, May 7: Red Pants in the office :)

*Detroit Site Visit*

Wednesday, May 8: Winter Swing Jacket for travel to Detroit

Thursday, May 9: Tie-Front Blouse for work meetings

Friday, May 10: Camel Pants - also not blogged yet, yikes!

Saturday, May 11: Striped Skirt for a fieldwork event

*The Weekend*

Sunday, May 12: Finally home! Refashioned Men's Shirt for a lazy Sunday

Vegas Billie Jean

2013-05-07T00:35:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Bluegingerdoll's Billie Jean, now available for pre-sale
Fabric: shantung, cotton lining
Cost: $75

Do you recognize this pattern?? It's Bluegingerdoll's brand new Billie Jean! The debut vintage-inspired pattern by the lovely Abby is now available for pre-sale until the official release on May 15, and in the meantime she was gracious enough to let me try it out!

What I think is most exciting about the Billie Jean pattern is how versatile it is, and that's exactly what I wanted to show you with my version. While Abby rocks her 1950s Billie Jean samples, my dress was destined for Vegas! With its classic princess-seamed bodice, two skirt options, and an almost limitless choice of fabric, the Billie Jean is perfect for dressing up however you choose.

For my version, I chose a shiny raw silk shantung and a daring black and white striped lining, loosely based on this inspiration. You'll also notice I swapped out the skirt for a circle skirt, as the gathered look just wasn't working with my thick, thick fabric. But the real pattern also gives you the options for a beautiful full skirt and a sexy wiggle dress, so there are plenty of choices! I could see this pattern getting a lot of use in a lot of different styles (check out Abby's for more inspiration).

Billie Jean with a circle skirt

In terms of sewing this up, both Abby and I would recommend you make a muslin first, because this is one sexy, slim-fitting pattern. If you're a little impatient to get to your Billie Jean (like I was), you should at least try Lara's technique of fitting the lining first, making your adjustments, and then cutting the bodice.

The pattern pieces go together quite easily, but this pattern is also a chance to practice some new techniques. Along with fitting, you will be making a lapped zipper, doing lining, and gathering a skirt or making a skirt vent (depending on your version). Look for her sew-along, coming soon!

If you buy one and make it up, Abby and I would love to see it!

Lastly, I leave you with a public service announcement: Kids, don't do Vegas. ;)

Faces of Vegas

Men's Newcastle Cardigan

2013-04-24T08:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Thread Theory's Newcastle Cardigan
Material: light sweater knit (body) and faux leather vinyl (yoke)
Cost: $20

Have you heard about Thread Theory patterns?! If you're into indie patterns and interested in menswear, then you're about to get pretty excited! Thread Theory Designs is a brand new independent menswear sewing pattern company run by the lovely wife and husband team, Morgan and Matt. That's right: stylish, indie MENSWEAR!

While I've seriously been loving the amazing range of independent pattern companies popping up lately for WOMEN, until now I have struggled to find good patterns for the MEN in my life. I even went so far as to convert the Minoru Jacket into a men's pattern... So, you know I was darn excited when I discovered the Thread Theory site, and I have been eagerly awaiting the release of their patterns.

Lucky me, this past week I had the opportunity to pattern test their first pattern, the Newcastle Cardigan, a gorgeous sweater with a shawl collar for "men who would like to stay cozy but look stylish."

First off, I love the look of this pattern: it's not too over-designed for a man, but still has stylish elements that make it unique and fun. While I am always a little bit nervous when sewing for others, the fit was great, the pattern worked, and we both love the final result! Especially for us casual west-coasters, I think this sweater is the perfect balance between dressed up and not-trying-too-hard cool.

For my version, I found a very lightweight sweater knit at the local discount fabrics, and I couldn't help but pair it with a faux leather vinyl yoke and wooden buttons for that 'hard and soft' look. The faux leather vinyl does have a bit of a stretch, so it worked perfect. I think this element also dresses up the sweater a little bit for a night out on the town (in a very casual San Francisco sort of way), and he can also wear it to work or dinner. The lightweight fabric makes it great for summer, and we already have plans to sew this up in a heavier fabric for the winter!

While I'm pretty notorious for not following pattern instructions, as a pattern tester I followed everything to the letter and was very pleased with the results! The instructions walk you through all the steps with clear pictures, and they have seriously thought of everything! The facings are nicely sewn down in place, the design of the upper and lower collars folds the seam line out of site, and I had no challenges whatsoever with fit. Bravo, especially for their first pattern!

Look for the Newcastle Cardigan pattern to be released on May 15th, and a lucky surprise may be coming your way for one of my readers!!!

Peplum Ruffle Top

2013-04-22T08:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: McCall's Misses' Tops M6164 + self-drafted rectangle ruffle

Material: knit jersey

Cost:b $5

After putting in a lot of sewing time fitting bras and pants, this was a quick and satisfying project to take on. In fact, not only do I think this ruffle peplum top is pretty darn cute, but it's extremely comfortable!

The details are simple: I cut a t-shirt using my trusty McCall's Misses' Tops M6164 pattern, cropping it at the waist. I then cut a big rectangle, gathered at the waist, and was done! Because I didn't have enough fabric to make a circle ruffle, it doesn't quite have the look of the classic peplum top, but I'll try that out next time. For now, I have worn it at least once a week because it is cute enough for work and play, and very soft and comfy.

The Great British Sewing Bee!

2013-04-17T08:00:00.000-07:00

via Tilly and the Buttons

Everybody's talking about it, and I thought I'd throw in my two cents, too: I just love the Great British Sewing Bee!

I finally had a chance to watch the first two episodes the other night, and I thought it was absolutely delightful! Having never seen (or even heard of) the Great British Bake Off (from which the show format is derived), I wasn't sure exactly what to expect. But compared to a lot of reality TV (Project Runway, anyone?) I loved the quotidian, home sewist feel of it. There's no snarky bickering, they really showcase the sewing and technique, and each person is so darn lovable! As a home sewist, I feel like they really showcased the craft and everyone in it. For each challenge, they instruct the viewer about what the contestants are making, what the components are, and what sewing really is all about. And, as the girlfriend of a tv/documentary editor (which totally makes me an expert!), I thought it had great graphics and camera work!

To my second point: For those of us who sew, you know you've had friends tell you to try out for Project Runway. For me, of course, that is ridiculous - I'm not a high-end fashion designer, I don't drape or sketch, and I've never made a couture ball gown let alone a dress made out of lettuce. But in terms of the Great Sewing Bee - I want to participate! It seems like so much fun, and a great way to test your skills, hang with other cool sewists, and do some reasonable if time-crunched challenges.

I also want to give a big bravo to everyone involved. In the blogging community we are all most familiar with Tilly, who I definitely tuned in to see. As someone who teaches workshops, has just released two patterns, and runs a very popular blog, it couldn't have been easy for her to submit her skills to the test, especially under such pressure. But she handled it all with grace, style and humility and made me like her even more!

Anyway, if you're interested in giving it a watch, you can find the first three episodes on YouTube below:

Great British Sewing Bee Episode One
Great British Sewing Bee Episode Two
Great British Sewing Bee Episode Three

Bra Quest 2013: All My Kwik Sew Bras!

2013-04-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Kwik Sew's Bra #3300
Fabric: interlock knit
Cost: a few dollars each

I tried to like KwikSew 3300. Five times over, in fact. Yes, I have made at least five versions of this bra (more if you count the re-makes and tweaks). I wish I could say I'm completely happy with the results of at least one of those bras, but at this point it seems to have turned into an unhealthy obsession.

Now, before you point out all the bra-fitting resources on the internet to me (including the ones I've already saved to my pinboard), I am a learn-by-doing sort of gal, meaning I'm not likely to seek help until I've worked through something in my own little way first. I find that in this process I actually learn more about the construction in general, and also truly understand what I need to learn when I do seek help. So, below are some utterly wrong and some not-so-wrong fitting techniques that I tried:

When I first tried the bra on the cups were much too big. I thought if I took out the curve from the bottom this would give me some lift and take out the volume. WRONG. This just meant the bottom of the bra didn't conform to the curvature of my breasts, and instead sat on my breast tissue. Not comfortable!

Next up I tried to make the cups smaller by taking off some volume from the top. I also took the sides in under the armpit because those pressed too far into my underarm for comfort. This did give me a smaller cup but I still didn't fill it out, and now I just kind of spilled over the top.

Next I actually looked up some bra-fitting techniques, and decided to play with the cup seam. I removed volume by pinching out a dart-shaped chunk of fabric from the upper and lower cups.

Finally, I also tried to reduce volume by straightening the curve of the cup seam.

I think the stitching and look of the bras turned out great (see below), but at this point, every subsequent bra I made seemed to still need some additional changes. I could continue making these indefinitely, but at some point I just had to call it quits and decide that this pattern just did not work for me.

I ended up not using underwires for this project because my A-cup sized ones are just too narrow for what works on me (even though I don't have much volume, curve-wise I think I need something more like a C). And second, I didn't really notice any difference in lift when I slipped the underwires that I did have into the casings. I will continue to experiment with my next bra pattern.

The main thing I learned in the process is that a big part of what makes a bra uncomfortable is when any part of the band/cup seam sits on your breast tissue - even in a bra without underwires or foam cups, it was still very uncomfortable for me. As you can tell, I am also learning a lot about my breast shape (I'll spare you the details!).

Onward and upward!

It's here! Announcing My 'Me Made May' Pledge for 2013

2013-04-09T15:43:00.002-07:00

It's that time again! Me Made May 2013! (Click the link to learn more and sign up.)

I have been looking forward to this challenge since last month rolled around and the Japanese started doing their own 'Me Made March.' Last year I participated for the first time when I realized you didn't have to wear entirely hand-made outfits and could wear just one hand-made piece each day. It was an incredible experience in that it made me realize that I could really, actually, wear something handmade by me each day, no matter the occasion. You can see the results here.

This year I will be participating again and, like last time, the real challenge will be incorporating my handmade wardrobe into all the activities that go on in May. Last year I was impressed at how easily my own handmade pieces fit into even the craziest activities like camping and special events. This May I have a trip to Vegas planned, as well as a work trip to Detroit, plus all the working and biking and hanging and drinking and fun in between. (P.S. If you live in Detroit and would like to meet up the second weekend of May, let's do it!) I am really looking forward to seeing just how much of me I can put in to May!

So:

‘I, Meg, pledge to wear at least one handmade garment each day of May '13 as part of Me-Made-May 2013.’

Bonus points if I can get loved ones to wear some things I've made for them, too!

Like last year, I will most likely try to do an outfit post a week with all my outfits. At the top of the post is a sample of some of my favorites from last year.

Liebster Award

2013-04-04T23:09:00.001-07:00

The Liebster Award, given by peers to bloggers with fewer than 200 followers, is a great way to introduce some incredible but lesser-known blogs around the interwebs. I was recently given Liebster awards by Ruffles Gazebo, Thread Theory, and Sunny Sewing, who each chose 11 of their favorite small-time bloggers and asked them 11 questions. Thanks so much ladies!

I took a little time to respond with my own post of 11 bloggers and 11 questions because the Liebster award is such a great opportunity to showcase other talent out there, and I wanted to take full advantage of it to share some of my favorite bloggers with you. I'm a bit of a sewing blog fanatic - I subscribe to over 300 (!) sewing blogs - and the ones that catch my eye have beautiful clothes (obviously), are illustrated with inspiring and informative photos, and have authors with a bit of a personality. If you're not already familiar with them, I know you will love the bloggers below as much as I do!

As a bonus, because many of us are transferring to Bloglovin, I took the opportunity to showcase blogs that have less than 200 Bloglovin followers. Hopefully you will check them out and help gain them more well-deserved recognition on the site! So, without further ado, my Liebster Awards go out to:

Small Things is a sewing blog by Lisa, a Dutch sewist who started blogging to document her pledge to make rather than buy her clothes. The garments that she has made since then are both wearable and incredibly creative. As a bonus, she's also developing her first pattern!

Mollytov is a blog I found only recently. Her clothes reflect that quirky cool-girl street style, and her blog offers tutorials along with finished projects. I also just learned that she lives quite close to me! Molly, let's be friends!

Otga Hasbold is a designer I found through her entry in the Tessuti Spots and Stripes contest. Her garments are sophisticated yet fun, and she's one of those ladies who always looks polished and put together.

Shona Stitches is an adorable blog that just makes you want to fill your closet with beautiful handmade goods. And she knits and makes bras, too!

Manic Pop is another blog I recently discovered and fell in love with because of Nicole's fun, bright sense of style. She also shares her love of music and recipes.

Makes Things is written by Stephanie, who has a self-proclaimed love of neutrals, chambray and alpaca yarn. My kind of girl! She puts together garments and outfits that I would totally rock.

Dreaming of Avonlea is a teacher by day and a blogger and dressmaker by night. She makes a ton of adorable (and sometimes even reversible!) dresses and is quite adorable herself.

The Tangible Artiste is a gorgeous mama with great personal style. I don't always follow people who post kids clothes, but her tots are some of the best dressed on the web!

From ? I Was Born and ? I Shall Become is written by an Estonian sewist who makes beautiful clothes in soft pinks and grays accented with lace and studs. Don't be afraid to check it out, she writes about it all in both English and Estonian. Talented girl!

Mabel Makes is written by the beautiful Stephanie who compliments her garments with soft, vintage-looking photos. She recently started blogging, but already has up a lot of her knit and sewn projects.

Home Ec is another new blog. I sometimes skip over blogs that don't show the final garments worn on the sewist, but Stephanie takes beautiful pics of her clean and sharp clothes that make me want to make them up myself (and on a NYC rooftop no less)!

Now, as I understand it, each Liebster Award giver gets to ask 11 questions of her 11 nominees, and has to answer 11 in return. From these lovely ladies, I would love to know:

A bit about you - where are you from and do you have a favorite local sewing store? Can I come visit? (Ok, you don't have to answer that last part.)
How do you choose your fabrics? Do you go with what catches your eye? Have something in mind when you go? Or shop for certain fabric weights or colors?
Are you a cautious, measure-twice-cut-once type of sewist or are you the throw-it-up-on-the-dress-form, make-it-up-as-you-go type of girl?
What is your favorite thing you've ever made (show me!).
What was the most DISASTROUS thing you've ever made and why? (You don't have to, but of course we'd all like to see that as well!)
Do you primarily sew special garments for your wardrobe (dresses, jackets...) or do you try to make everything yourself (underwear, t-shirts...)? How's that going?
Would you say you've found your personal style? Or do your tastes constantly evolve so that what you made last year doesn't work for you any more? Any tips on that front?
What decade other than now most closely inspires your (current) personal style?
Have you ever sewn for others? Did they appreciate it? Did it fit?
What is your day job/day-to-day life like? Are you an all-around creative or is this your artistic outlet?
I know all your friends are telling you to get into the sewing business. Do you ever have aspirations to start your own handmade-related venture?

Can't wait to hear from you all!

And, if you just can't get enough, here are some more blogs that made my list and have already received Liebster Awards:
The Garment Farmer
Not Your Average Average
La Petite Josette
Laika Doll
Catherine Daze's Blog
Ms. Modiste
Momita's Blog

And, hold on, because now you're about to learn a whole lot more about me:

From Ruffles Gazebo:

1. What is your favourite part about sewing/creating, what is your least favourite part?
I love being able to have any sort of fashion I want and have it FIT. I am also quite drawn to the process of creating, whether the finished garment works out or not. Right now I am seriously struggling to perfect my fit, and that has been exhausting to say the least.

2. Is there a good amount of resources where you live? If not, what places do you use online that you use/love?
I love the resources that exist in the San Francisco Bay Area. I love Stone Mountain and Daughter for its local staff and selection of high-quality fabrics at good prices, and around the bay you can find everything else from locally-made yarn to discount fabrics (all with incredibly friendly and knowledgeable staff). My mom also finds some great resources in her home in Santa Cruz County, but when even she had trouble getting a double zip zipper, I knew I was blessed with all I had up here!

3. What inspires you to create?
Sometimes I see a beautiful garment I want to re-create. Other times I wake up from an evening nap and just HAVE to make something. More recently, I have been really forcing myself not to buy RTW clothes, so I have to make things if I want to have it.

4. How does sewing or handmade things influence your daily life?
Day-to-day wise, sewing is a hobby. Everyone's gotta have something to do after work, whether it's raising kids, playing sports, knocking back a few beers, or being in a rock band. Mine is sewing (though I do enjoy the occasional sport and the more than occasional beer). On a more personal level, sewing allows me to create exactly what I want to wear (if I get it right!) and define my own style, without having to rely on cheap garments and fast fashion.

5. What is your favourite self-made garment/object/thing
That's a hard one! I think my truly favorite but hardly ever worn would be my artsy-fartsy Holiday Drape Dress. On a more practical level, I have recently loved the pants I've been making (here's my first pair) because they are soo comfy, even if I'm still working on the fit.

6. What is your favourite hand made thing by someone else? Pick if you can!
On the pants theme, I am currently loving Sunni's trouser. On the beauty scale, anything by the young and incredibly talented Esther from the Sticks is AMAZING. That girl is going places!

7. If you get someone else to make something for you, what would it be?
I would truly love to have someone make me a custom pair of shoes. Or a leather purse.

8. What is your blogging goal for the year?
My blogging goal has been to increase my interactions with the sewing community this year. I have already made some progress on that front (look for upcoming updates!), and the Liebster Award is another fun way to do that.

9. If a web designer came along and offered to spice up your blog for free, what would you ask him to do?
I am planning on changing my blog layout from a three column design to a two column design so that my photos fit better, and I would also love to spruce up the color scheme. I will probably do this myself with my basic html skills when I make the time.

10. What is your favourite food?
I love good food, but deep down I'm a carb girl. Fresh cooked bread all the way!

11. If you could learn to make anything what would it be? eg. Bikes, furniture, home made beauty products, veggie patches, silversmithing
I currently am very seriously looking in to how to make shoes! I am very excited about the prospect and can't wait to have the same control over that as I do over my handmade clothes. I would also love to make furniture...

From Thread Theory:

1. If you could choose anything (absolutely anything!) as a career, what would it be?
I currently work with a company that helps non-profits do better work by doing evaluations and strategic planning. I thoroughly believe that if everyone in some small way held a job that worked to make the world a better place instead of make a quick buck, we'd be in a lot better of a position. However, if we ever got to that point and everyone was a small business owner, I think I would love to do something a bit crafty. Sewing is great, and I also love me some home design! Of course, I'm a nerd at heart, so it would have to stay true to that as well.

2. What garment would you most like to add to your wardrobe?
As some of you know, I've been desperately trying to make a decent bra. So far, the quest continues...

3. Where do you like to shop for fabric?
As I said above, there are plenty of good places around, and I most often find myself getting material at Stone Mountain and Daughter and random notions and things at Discount Fabrics.

4. What movie most inspires you to sew?
Hmmm... My boyfriend makes documentaries, so I do end up watching a bit of film, but I am generally not inspired by costuming. However, I did become enthralled with shawl collar sweaters after seeing a great one in There Will Be Blood. Weird, I know.

5. What are three key things that you would add to your dream sewing studio?
A cutting matt would be nice. Actually, while we're at it, a cutting table would also be nice - I currently sew, sleep and live in a 350 sq ft studio, so there's not much table room to cut. And then? If we're really dreaming then I'd love an embroidery machine!

6. Are you a PDF or a paper pattern person? Why do you prefer one over the other?
I like PDF patterns when I decide that I. MUST. HAVE. A. PATTERN. RIGHT. NOW and can download it quickly from the internet. However, paper patterns are always easier to work with and store away for later use.

7. Other than sewing, what most preoccupies your time?
My day job, as I said earlier, is working with non-profits. I also like to drink good beer with friends, travel if I get the chance, and do a little home decorating!

8. What type of garment interests you the most as a sewing project: Something that highlights an unusual fabric or something with a basic fabric and unusual details?
Some day, I will make my own wedding dress. Some day...

9. Do you have sewing buddies? If so, who/what are they (friends – in person/online, pets, family)?
I am developing a few sewing friends here and there on the webs and a bit in real life. I mostly sew alone with NPR on, so you could say that Ira Glass and I are good sewing buddies.

10. Do you have sewers in your family history? What type of projects did they mostly sew?
My mom taught me to sew and allowed me to use her sewing machines. I tried to teach her how to knit, but that didn't go over so well. She has made all sorts of things, but the most memorable is that she made a lot of my baby clothes.

11. If you could pick any new subject to spend a year learning, what would it be?
I always regretted not learning music. It would be kick ass to play the fiddle!

From Sunny Sewing:

1. What drew you to sewing?
For something that I spend so much time on, I wish I knew. Quite honestly, it just sort of happened. I learned from my mom, took sewing classes here and there, and got a sewing machine my last year of college, but I'm not really sure how it became such a full-on addiction. Having some time on my hands and such an encouraging community definitely help. You are all enablers!

2. What is is your most favorite thing you've made thus far?

I talked a bit about this in Thread Theory's question, so I'll pick another favorite. A recent fave that gets tons of compliments is my Winter Swing Jacket. Interestingly enough, it's made out of the same fabric as my other favorite, the Holiday Drape Dress.

3. How many hours a week do you sew?
Sometimes I barely get any, and sometimes - god - probably up to twenty? Usually something in the middle is a good balance. Too little and I feel antsy, too much and I'm probably holed up in my room, which can't be too healthy either.

4. What is your favorite pattern company to sew from?
I used to buy very few patterns and just Frankenpattern whatever I came up with, taking my inspiration from RTW. I now also own several patterns from the Big 4, but by far my favorite have been the indie pattern designers. They are the more expensive, but they are often exceptionally well done. You can also usually interact with the maker!

5. Who do you like to sew for most?
Myself! Hands down! You all know what happens when you knit a boyfriend a sweater...

6. Roughly how much fabric do you have stashed? Some, a lot, or I'm buried!
I think a non-sewist would say that I have a lot, but compared to other sewists I know I would say I have some. I have one small closet-length shelf that holds all my fabric and yarns, although it probably is enough to make more than 30 garments!

7. What do you like to do besides sewing? Other hobbies?

As I mentioned before, friends (and beer), traveling, being homey. I should also mention that I once was a very serious runner, but that has waned a bit with some knee injuries over the last few years and the demands of a 9 to 5.

8. Who inspired you to start sewing or who inspires you now?

My current biggest inspiration are other sewists. There's always a new idea, a new pattern, and a new way to make it!

9. What made you want to start a sewing blog?

I originally started my blog in 2007 to document the things I made as a sort of personal journey. I knew they wouldn't last forever, and I wanted to have pictures of my projects and notes on how I made them. Since then, I have discovered an entire community and blogging has become so much more than that. Sometimes I worry that it even takes up as much time as sewing!

10. What sewing item are you dreaming of getting, regardless of cost?

Fabric, fabric, fabric. I am pretty happy with most of my sewing tools, having inherited a large assortment of things (including my serger) from an old neighbor. But who doesn't dream of always buying more fabric?! That and, like I said above, and embroidery machine would be dreamy.

11. Tell me something about you that most people who read your blog do not know!
Some people who follow my blog closely know this, but I am fluent in Spanish and have lived in Mexico City. Incidentally, while I was there my Senora let me borrow her sewing machine and I made dresses out of embroidered folk dresses. You can read all about it at my Mexico diary/blog. It was fun to write because I actually got to do some writing there, if you know what I mean.

Whew! OK guys, thanks for playing! See you again soon!

Bra Quest 2013: The Ready to Wear Bra

2013-03-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: copy of a RTW bra
Fabric: interlock knit
Cost: $5

Last week I showed you my vintage bra, and today I'm back with my copy of a ready to wear bra. And let me tell you, it was a disaster!

Have you ever seen those tutorials online that make it seem so easy to copy RTW or just draft your own pattern (as Amy can tell you, it's not). Well, I decided to give one of those a go using this little snippet from Pinterest - you just shape pattern paper over your bra cup, and voila, bra pattern! Well, as I learned, RTW bras, with their foam cups and padding, are really quite different than my little bralettes, and I ended up with a cup that was way too short and shallow. Here's what I did, but don't copy it!

I'm sure I did a ton of things wrong drafting-wise, but the real lesson here is that sometimes it's best to use a pattern until you've got the hang of it. On to the next one - KwikSew 3300!

Bra Quest 2013: The Vintage Bra

2013-03-22T08:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Mrs Depew's 1940s French Bra #2014

Fabric: interlock knit

Cost: $6

Finally, my first bra test! After gearing up for my bra quest, finding my size, testing some department store bralettes, and picking my patterns, I made up my first muslin! This is the vintage 1940s reproduction from Mrs Depew, which I chose because of its vertically seamed cups and similarity to some of the bralettes I have been coveting online.

From the pattern picture, however, it was hard to tell exactly what the bra would look like made up, so I just bought the pattern and dove in. While slightly different than I anticipated (I thought there would be a full band under the cups), this bra actually worked out quite well for my first try, with a few modifications. Here's my process:

1. Re-drafted pattern pieces so that the four darts all became seams

2. Sewed cups together

3. Sewed cups to bridge and back strap

4. Finished top and bottom the raw edges with fold-over elastic; added straps and closure

Here's a close-up of the seams. The whole thing does look very neat and tidy, if I do say so myself!

Because I do have some practice making bathing suits, the whole thing came together in just a few hours, and is actually very comfortable. The fabric is an interlock knit, which gives it some softness and stretch yet is still firm enough to hold everything in place.

However, what it has in comfort it's missing in shape. While it's surprisingly not bad for my first attempt (there's no pulling or tugging), it fits more like a sports bra and doesn't provide much lift or curve. In fact, it has much more of a flattening effect on me. Part of this is due to the fit - the bridge does not lay flat on my chest as it should, and believe it or not I think I need a little more curvature in the cups. The pattern says it's multi-sized, yet only has adjustment lines for the length of the back of band, so it is definitely an A/B-cup pattern and I wouldn't recommend it for a larger gal.

My next bra muslin will be traced off of a ready-to wear bra, so we'll see how that fit turns out next week! I've also started looking at fabric for making up the final bra, and am loving Summerset's bra kits, which seem like an affordable way to get something nice. Be back with more next week!

Bra Quest 2013: The Patterns

2013-03-19T08:00:00.000-07:00

The Bra Quest continues! As you remember, my plan is to sew my way through four bras to find the perfect one:

- A vintage bra
- A copy of a RTW bra
- A bra pattern from the Big 4
- A bra pattern from a smaller pattern company
- And (hopefully) my dream bra using whatever works best from the previous four!

Now that I've scoped out the bras I like in RTW and found my true size, I combed the internets for the right patterns to sew up. For at least my first bra, I knew I wanted one thing in particular: vertically seamed cups. For a small girl like me, I feel that they do the best job of holding them up vertically rather than spreading them out horizontally. Other than that, I have really appreciated your recommendations for good bra patterns.

Here are the ones I'll be sewing up:

#1 The Vintage: Mrs Depew's 1940s French Bra #2014

#2 The RTW Bra: Copying my Target Gilligan Bra (and other random bras around the house)

#3 The Big 4 Bra: Kwik Sew's Bra #3300

#4 Indie Bra: Pin-Up Girls' Classic Full-Band Bra #1200

I chose these bras based on their look, online recommendations, and range of options such a bands, lace etc. I might also try the Elan Bra #511 (at your recommendation!), but it has some of the features in the bras above so I'm going to stick with the above ones for now. Ok, I'm off to get started on #1! Wish me luck!

Handmaker's Factory

2013-03-15T08:00:00.001-07:00

Have you had the chance to check out Handmaker's Factory yet? It's a new sewing community started by Leisl Shanley, who blogs over at Jorth!, and Nichola Prested of Nikkishell. They've also had their hand in some other crafty endeavors, including Mixtape Zine, working at Tessuti, and BurdaStyle.

I love the cool website layout and pretty graphics, and also it's conscientious pledge:

As a member of Handmaker's Factory I pledge that I shall learn about the impact my clothing choices make on our planet, step off the merry-go-round of dictated fashion and confidently explore the traditional craft of making my own clothes. As part of this global interactive community I will share my passion and expertise, be respectful to others and have fun!

I went over there this week and posted my Winter Swing Jacket, and sweet Leisl contacted me to feature it on the site!

Handmaker's Factory blog

If you've been looking for a new sewing community to share your work, I definitely recommend!

Bra Quest 2013: Fitting

2013-03-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

First off, I would like to thank everyone for their comments and ideas on my Bra Quest! Your suggestions and support are such a resource, and I am drawing on the whole internet community as I do this. I am beginning to feel like this is a bit of an epic quest, with lots of wizards and magicians encountered along the way.

After trying on some RTW bralettes earlier this week, I decided it might be time to actually find out my bra size (I probably should have done this before making up a few tester bras, too). And, surprise surprise, it's not what I thought it was going to be!

I used A Sophisticated Pair's Bra Size Calculator and then, because I'm a nerd and work a lot in data, I confirmed the results with Her Room's Bra Chart (video above) and Wizard of Bra's Cup Size Chart (see? there's a wizard on my quest already!). I found that you can take the measurements with or without a bra on and they pretty much come out the same for me. (As a note, Victoria Secret's online size chart seems to be wildly incorrect. It shows you only how to measure your store-bought band size- the 32 in 32A, for example - but not your true band measurement - size 32 fit someone with a 28" measurement - and then it tells you how to calculate cup size using your band size. Really?!)

Out of curiosity, I also wondered what Kwik Sew #3300, my Big 4 bra pattern pick, recommended for measuring your size. But all it says is to sew your store-bought size number, which is ridiculous! Imagine if the Clover pattern told you to just sew your store-bought pants size! Of course, bra sizing seems to be a little more standard than pants sizing, but it would have been nice to have some fitting guidance here given the fact that many women reportedly wear the wrong bra size.

Luckily, a little research on my part has paid off. I usually buy the 34A size at the store, but after taking my measurements I found that I'm actually a 32B! This is hardly surprising as it seems like most women have this revelation at some point, but I am quite happy I found out now!

For the fitting part that is still to come, EenNieuweJurk has also recommended this great bra fitting resource.

OK, off to re-cut my pattern and do some more bra sewing!

Help! How do you read blogs?

2013-03-13T16:49:00.002-07:00

Everybody! Google Reader is going away July 1!

source unknown

About a year and a half ago, in an effort to wean myself off what we'll call less-informative websites and articles, I started following sewing and craft blogs on Google Reader. I now have almost 300 blogs on my blog role, putting out around 50 posts a day. I think I'm a little OBSESSED.

Anyway, you can understand my distress when I was notified today that Google is retiring Google Reader. Admittedly, it hasn't been well-maintained in recent years, but it has become my go-to for sewing blog updates.

An internet search revealed some other non-mobile non-browser based services, including NewsBlur, FeedReader, Netvibes, and RebelMouse. Personally, I know that Bloglovin is also a site people seem to use.

Anyway, how do you keep up with your blogs? Suggestions are much appreciated!

Captain America Boxers

2013-03-13T08:00:00.000-07:00

Pattern: Jalie's Men's Thermal Underwear #2328
Fabric: ribbed knit
Cost: $3

Today I took a little break from women's underwear to make... men's underwear!

I was inspired by Miss Celie's Pants to make up a pair, and it was such a simple project (even if making sense of and printing the pdf pattern was not). It's even got a front fly opening and is designed just like a store-bought pair. The whole thing involves two seams for the fly and two seams to put it all together. Attach elastic to the leg openings and waist and you're done!

The U.S.A. theme is because my man is returning from a trip abroad, and I kept threatening to make him a pair of American-themed underwear, so that's what's going on with these. The elastic is actually a little too stiff to be comfy, so these are more of a muslin - if he likes them, I'll make some more.

front opening (left) ~ Rolling Stones Sticky Fingers (right)

Bra Quest 2013: Checking out RTW

2013-03-12T08:00:00.000-07:00

Last week, I introduced Bra Quest 2013 (sound the trumpet!) in which I try to make the perfect everyday bra. In sum, ready to wear bras - with their underwire and padding and cheap material - just suck, and I am convinced I can do better.

The first step on my bra-making quest involved a trip to the store. Not the fabric store, but a regular ol' department store. Ok, in this case it was a happenstance stop in Urban Outfitters. They happened to have a ton of cute bralettes on display, and I thought it would be a perfect chance to test out what works on me. Here is the bra I chose to try on:

Like most fast-fashion today, Urban Outfitters is chock full of trendy, pretty things in awful quality. While this bralette looked great on the rack, I knew as soon as I tried it on that mine would need better need better support. Believe it or not, under a t-shirt this bralette looked worse than had I gone bra-less! Not to mention the fact that I immediately got a rash from the itchy material.

However, there were some things to learn. The great thing about RTW clothing is that manufacturers often come up with ingeniously simple construction techniques, which make speedy mass-production possible. While we may eschew the shoddy construction of many of these garments, if you take a closer look you might actually pick up some cool tricks!

For this simple bra, I liked the way they simply used wide fold-over elastic for the band. It's so easy and cuts out the step of the band altogether. Of course, this may be one of the reasons the bra provides so little support, but it may be good when making a sleep bralette, etc.

I also was interested in how they finished the cups with their lace edging.

Turns out they cut the the lining slightly shorter and cover the raw edge of the lining with elastic. Easy peasy.

These may not be the traditional bra construction techniques, but now I know that I will need something a little more constructed to offer support, and I have some interesting finishing techniques to keep in my back pocket.

Next time, I'll be figuring out my bra size (and the answer may surprise me!).

Quilting Inspiration

2013-03-10T13:15:00.000-07:00

Do you read Completely Cauchy's blog? If not, you should.

Not the typical home quilter, Completely Cauchy is an artist who pushes the conventional quilting boundaries with her work. Her quilts and needlepoint address political, sexual, and personal issues, and are just plain awesome. I wanted to show you some of her pics, but I think she is very protective of her images, so you will have to check them out at her site!

I have been wanting to make a quilt for my next place for a while, and have certainly been inspired by some of the amazing ones I've seen you ladies do (like these cross quilts, or this triangle quilt). Completely Cauchy, of course, has inspired me to a whole new level, and now I'm also considering one with a message. Here are two of my fave pieces from her: the canoodle doodle, and the mouth organ.

Bra Quest 2013

2013-03-08T08:00:00.000-08:00

via Pinterest

All these handmade bras and sewalongs lately had me craving my own version (that's my pinspiration board, above). The lace, the details, the fit! Oh my!

Now, at the risk of sounding like a bit of a hippie (which I may or may not be anyway), I don't really like wearing bras. I have small cups so I don't really need the support, and I hate the feeling of my girls jammed in between underwires and padding. It's downright uncomfortable! However, it seems that society has a preference for the shape of a woman's breasts, and going bra-less to the office would not only be considered vulgar but might also make me feel a little uncomfortable and over-exposed. It's an unfortunate state!

So, one bra at a time, I am embarking on a journey to make my own bra, my way. To do this, I will sew my way through five bras:

A vintage bra
A copy of a RTW bra
A bra pattern from the big 4
A bra pattern from a smaller pattern company
And (hopefully) my dream bra using whatever works best from the previous four!

I have experimented with bralettes before, but the goal of this adventure will be to have a comfortable, supportive bra I to wear on the regular. Wish me luck!

Whales Sweater!

2013-03-04T08:00:00.000-08:00

Pattern: self drafted, with shaping based on Knit.1's Turtleneck, and whale pattern inspired by New England Knits's Whale Watch Hat

Yarn: Vanna's Choice Yarn in Scarlett and White

Cost: $32

I originally started this sweater for Valentine's Day last year (yup, that's 2012). It originally had little hearts where the whales were. The night before, I tried it on, decided it didn't quite fit, and decided to frog the whole thing. In its next incarnation, the sweater became a whale sweater, and I love it in all its ridiculousness!

I knit up the front and back pretty quick, and then waited a whole year to do the sleeves.

What got me knitting it back up again was Design*Sponge's January Knitting Challenge. Alas, they announced the event halfway through the month, which isn't much time to knit much of anything. They also made it an Instagram challenge, and I don't have the phone with the internets. Nevertheless, it inspired me to get started again, and I finished this one in February. I'm also making some progress on my resolution to clean out my UFO/mend-it basket by the end of the year!

Here's the finished thing. The fit is great, it's warm and comfy, and absolutely silly. Soon to be a weekend favorite.

Mostly for my reference, but if anyone is interested in trying their own, let me know...
CO:
CO 64 sts.
Join in the round. Work 10 rows in 1x1 rib.
Increase row: *k2, m1 by knitting into front and back of 3rd st, repeat from * to end (85).

Pattern:
Make intarsia. starting with p side. I never made a chart, but here's the whale pattern:

Shaping:
Decrease 1 sts each side after first three zig-zag lines.
Don't decrease after 2nd whale row
Increase 1 st on each side after next "small hearts" row
After 3rd whale row, work two rows (remembering to increase), and begin arm hole shaping:

Armhole shaping:
BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows (remembering to con't small hearts pattern)
Dec 1 st each side of every other row 3 times.

Back:
Place the stitches for the front on holder.
Work back stitches in pattern until armhole measures 6 1/2 inches (just after last row of "small hearts").
After 5th small heart section, BO 4 sts at the beg of next 6 rows.
BO remaining stitches.

Front:
Pick up front stitches from holder.
Work in pattern until armhole measures 4 1/2 inches (just before first row of "small hearts").
Work 2 sts, BO middle 10 sts.

Front Left and Right (do for one side, then repeat for other):
Next row: k3tog, work row.
Then: k2tog at beg of every other row on the neck side 3 times.

Next row: BO 4 sts at the beg of every other row next 3 rows.
BO remaining stitches.

Sleeves:
CO 30.
Work 10 rows in 1x1 rib.
Work remainder of sleeve in small hearts pattern.
Increase 1 st either side every 10 rows.
Work 70 rows.

Sleeve shaping:
BO 2 sts either side of next 2 rows.
Decrease one stitch either side every other row (RS) until 12 sts remain. BO.

Collar:
Pick up stitches from around neck opening.
Work 3 rows in 1x1 rib.
BO with a stretchy BO.

Finishing:
Sew sleeves up and sew to sweater.
Wear ridiculous whale sweater and show to friends.

Dr. Seuss Chalk Bags

2013-03-01T08:00:00.001-08:00

Pattern: The Handy Hippie's Better Thank Basic Chalk Bag
Fabric: interfaced Dr. Seuss quilting cotton, pvc faux leather, fleece lining
Cost: $7 each

If you sew, then you have surely gotten these requests. You know the ones. They usually start with "Oh, can you make me..." and they usually end in some ridiculous request that most likely wouldn't even feed through your sewing machine. I've gotten requests for modifying leather iPhone cases (hand sewing leather!), mending a favorite backpack (the whole thing was threadbare!), making a costume to please a friend of a friend of a friend (for real?). I've written about my thoughts on sewing for others before, but the requests to make ridiculous things are definitely the most, well, ridiculous.

Which is where these come in. Chatting with my boyfriend the other day, I got that oh so lovely "Would you be able to make... chalk bags?" The boy has just taken up rock climbing, and thought it would be cheaper to get chalk bags through the sweatshop that is my apartment rather than buying one made in China. (For those of you who would rather sew than climb rocks, a chalk bag stores the powdered chalk used to keep your hands dry and better grip the rocks.)

So why did I make them? Well, I'd like to say it's because I'm in lurve (and I am!), but the real reason is that a very quick google search revealed this pattern. And a pattern - made for a sewing machine - makes the whole ordeal a little less preposterous. I sent him the link, he took that as a yes, and we got to work.

The whole thing was actually kind of a fun project to do together. We got to debate modifying the pattern, I taught him some sewing terms, and he handled some of the tough stuff, like forcing the drawstring through those damn toggles. We finished all three (for him and two buddies) over the course of two weekend days, and I have to say the results look quite professional.

So, next time I make something at someone's request, I'll definitely enlist them as a helper. You get an assistant, and get to share your craft with someone who might actually start to appreciate it!

As for the bags, they are pretty cool, and I am definitely glad I had a pattern so I didn't have to think through and reverse engineer the whole thing. After an hour in the fabric store, we ended up using this great black and white Dr. Seuss cotton, interfacing it to give it a little more strength and rigidity. Of course, we didn't buy enough, so I supplemented it with some faux pvc leather I am planning on using for some pants, and I rather like the look. The chalk is kept in with an internal draw string and a flap that covers the opening. He says they're the coolest ones in the gym.

Flower Pants

2013-02-26T08:00:00.000-08:00

Pattern: Colette's Clover
Fabric: Stretch woven
Cost: $20

For my second pair of Clover pants, I had a long list of tweaks and changes: Adjust the front! Adjust the sides! Lengthen the back! But instead of going through all the alterations, I decided to trace the Colette pattern and then trace over that with some ready-to-wear pants that fit me pretty well. That, combined with some additional fitting, gave me a pretty good fit.

They are not perfect so far, but here are the changes I made:

Modifications

I'm bow-legged! It turns out that the legs on my RTW are a lot more bow-legged than the pattern. Updated with those changes, a lot of the bag and sag was eliminated from the legs, and they look much better!

Fly front - I also combined the Clover pattern with the Juniper fly front and pockets. This caused some problems because I was also trying to modify the fit (see picture below), but I went back and changed them and they almost work now. I think with my next version it will be great. I also seem to have managed to sew the fly-front in reverse (twice!), but hopefully I'll get it right this time.

Left side - baggy; Right side - fixed

Waist fit - As for those waist fit modifications, I took out some of the curve out of the hips, and pinched the waist in at the butt (small waist adjustment). Then I cut the waistband straight instead of tapered (which I figured out on the third try), and it all fit pretty well. Again, one more version and I think I'll get it!

Waistline - Finally, I adjusted the back to sit higher up, and the front to sit a little lower. I must have a high ass crack!

Still to Fix for Next Time

Fit in the Knee There is still a little bit of bag here and there, and I hope to fix that by adding more curve to the knee area.

Making pants has definitely been a long process for me. I find that these wearable muslins keep me happy in the meantime. For now I have lots of stretchy fabric, and I'm realizing those are much better for fitted styles (even more fitted than above). After that, I think I'll be ready to transition to the not-so-forgiving non-stretch style. Wish me luck!

Sewing Space: Pinboard

2013-02-22T08:00:00.000-08:00

I'm closing out my sewing wall tour this week with my pinboard. While I must admit that I use Pinterest almost religiously to store inspirations, techniques and even articles, there is something nice about having inspiration that you can physically touch. Because this board takes more effort than just the click of a mouse, I find it especially useful as a project planning tool rather than all-things inspiration.

For my upcoming projects, I like to print a photo of the inspiration or line drawing, add a fabric swatch, and even tack up some notes or measurements. This helps keep me visually on track with what I want to sew next, and I get inspired every time I look at.

Truth be told, of course, I have taken the time to update the projects in about a year. Some are still on my to-do list, some haven't even been attempted, and many projects have taken place that aren't up here. I think it's time for an update!

Do you have a way to organize your thoughts that is easy to maintain? I'd love to hear your ideas!

This post concludes my sewing-space tour! If you try any of the projects, or are inspired to do your own, I'd love to see them!

Sewing Space: Friendly Kisses

2013-02-14T08:00:00.000-08:00

Perhaps I get a little obsessive about my hobbies, but it wasn't until I had a friend over in my early stages of decorating that she commented that I had no pictures of my friends up. Oops!

In honor of Love Day today, I wanted to show you my alternative to the tried and true photo collage. Inspired by this Pinterest post, I decided to put up some friendly kisses instead. Since college, I rarely get to see one of my core groups of friends all together, so I plan on mailing out some return envelopes to get their smooches all in one place. For now, this is just a prototype made by the pucker of yours truly. I think the final version would look nice alongside their signatures, done in black.

It's not a traditional way to show how much you love your friends, but definitely a unique one. I'm curious to hear if anyone else has a unique way of incorporating their friends or family into their decor.