Chez Loulou

A Touch Of Yellow

2013-06-19T18:31:00.002+02:00

To brighten your day.

All photos were taken in Normandy.

The Cost of Living in France - Normandy Edition

2013-06-15T13:03:00.000+02:00

Since moving to Normandy in December 2011, I've had a dozen or so readers ask if we've found the cost of living in the north of France to be more or less expensive than in the south of France. Here's what I've learned over the last eighteen months.

Everyone already knows that moving is expensive. In France, rental properties often come with only the key and the kitchen sink. You're lucky if they leave you with some light bulbs still in the sockets. We were prepared to either rent a truck and move furniture and appliances from our house in the south up to Normandy, or start over and buy everything new/used. Either way it was going to cost a bundle.

We decided to take our time and explore the area a bit before signing a lease on anything, so we spent our first month renting a gîte. Our days were spent driving around and getting to know which towns and villages we liked, and which ones we didn't.
The rest of our time was spent sitting in a café that offered free wi-fi, scouring the local real estate websites. We learned the hard way that the promise of wi-fi at a vacation rental can be, well, misleading.

One day I signed on to leboncoin.fr and saw a little cottage with red shutters and teal green trim and I just knew. That was going to be our home.
We arranged to see it that week and loved it from the moment we walked into the garden. And the best part was that it was rented almost fully furnished! No need to rent a truck and schlep furniture across the country or shell out thousands to buy a new fridge, oven, bed, couch, etc. The deposit, agent's fees and all the other costs associated with renting a new place had already drained most of our savings account and left us feeling a bit shellshocked by the time we settled in.

But we've slowly recovered.

Our current situation is this: here in Normandy we pay rent, taxes, electricity, water and renters insurance in addition to paying taxes, electricity, water and homeowners insurance on the house in the south, until it sells. Fingers crossed that will happen sooner rather than later!

So we're spending more every month than we did before. However, I'm earning more money than I did in the south, so after the initial moving costs and the fact that we didn't have to pay rent or a mortgage before moving, our monthly expenses are pretty much the same.

*Rent 700 €
*Heating Fuel (to fill up the tank twice in the winter) 100 €
EDF (electricity) 55 €
Phones and Internet 55 €
Heath Insurance Top Up (to cover the 30% that isn't covered by the state) 80 €
Car and Home Insurances 70 €
Taxes (habitation and foncières and TV) 70 €
Water 30 €
Fuel (to fill up the car twice) 130 €
Groceries (approx.) 500 €

Total 1790 €

Eating out and wine are the two things that we have found to be slightly more expensive in Normandy. Groceries, water, fuel and everything else seem to be about the same.
One thing that is definitely cheaper - a round trip train ticket to Paris!

Today the exchange rate is 1€ = $1.33.

When I wrote my first cost of living post in 2008, we were spending 800 € a month and the exchange rate was 1€ = $1.48.
Two years later I updated our situation. In 2010 we were spending 880 € a month and the exchange rate was 1€ = $1.24.
In the summer of 2011 I wrote my third post on the subject. At that time we were spending 1005 € a month and the exchange rate was 1€ = $1.44.

*Costs in Normandy that we didn't have in the Languedoc

My Favorite Photo of Today

2013-06-14T23:05:00.001+02:00

My favorite photo of our day out exploring the Cotentin Peninsula has to be these colorful fishing boats and that blue, blue water.

On the other hand, these cows are adorable!

Now I can't decide.

Yesterday. In Paris.

2013-06-12T17:21:00.000+02:00

Yesterday I played hooky. At 8:31 a.m. I hopped on a train in Bayeux and in two short hours I was pulling into the station in Paris.

I spent the morning shopping in stores that have obviously never heard of any singer other than Beyoncé, which meant that in one short hour I had heard enough of her music to last me a lifetime, but I did find a great pair of black pants that I needed for work, so she was a necessary evil.

Then I strolled across the river past Notre-Dame and across a dangerously weighed down by "love locks" bridge to spend a much needed afternoon catching up, sharing stories and laughing with girlfriends. All the while consuming some killer, freshly roasted coffee. Which is a rarity in Paris.

And as it always does, the day flies by. Before I knew it I was speeding across town to la Gare Saint-Lazare on a packed Métro to catch my train to Normandy. I arrived home just in time for dinner.

A beautiful day in Paris. I can't complain.

Photo du Jour - Sel Magic

2013-06-09T16:55:00.001+02:00

"Sel Magic"
I'm intrigued.

More Notes To Self

2013-06-07T10:07:00.000+02:00

Nobody you meet in Normandy is ever going to understand why you left the Languedoc-Roussillon to move north. Stop trying to explain your motives. It's easier to let them think you're crazy.

Learning to correctly pronounce the word couverts* will save a lot of laughter at your expense.

When a fonctionnaire* asks you to hand over your only copy of an official ID card so they can send it off with your dossier while you wait for its replacement that they say will only take a week or so to receive, refuse.

The one day that you're running late for work is the day you'll get stuck behind a tractor hauling hay. Or cows. Or potatoes.

You are never going to break the code of the French texto.*

You've been in France for 10 years now. Stop being embarrassed when you're standing totally buck naked in front of your gynecologist. He's seen it all before.

At the rate that you're eating all that delicious Normandy salt butter, you won't be able to fit into any of your clothes by September. Maybe you should show some restraint.

Stop acting surprised when a child whom you're meeting for the first time walks right up to you and gives you bisous.*

Make sure you correctly enunciate the the word "shit" the next time you're teaching a French person the expression, "when the shit hits the fan." If you don't, they'll think the expression is, "when the sheet (of paper) hits the fan."
It's not quite the same thing.

Stop thinking you're going to wake up one day and start loving Calvados. Digestifs* just aren't your thing.

Those pesky French words that sound feminine but are actually masculine, and vice-versa, are going to plague you for all eternity. Or as long as you live in France. Learn to accept it and do your best.

Your cheese addiction means that from now on, every time you open your fridge, you will be smacked in the face with the fragrance of fromage. And that's a good thing.

*couverts - flatware
*fonctionnaire - civil servant
*texto - text message
*bisous - a greeting that consists of a kiss on each cheek
*digestif - an after dinner drink

You might also enjoy:
Notes To Self
Should You Move To France?
Ten Reasons I Love Living in France

Photo du Jour - Fresh From The Farm

2013-06-02T22:03:00.001+02:00

Crème fraîche fermière de Normandie.

Snapshots of a Day in Bayeux

2013-05-29T19:23:00.000+02:00

The mini Wednesday morning market on the rue Saint Jean (the Saturday market is much better!), blue skies and the Romanesque cathedral that can be seen from almost every spot in town.

Photo du Jour - Decorated With Wisteria

2013-05-26T10:39:00.000+02:00

A medieval château tower decorated with wisteria.

Photo du Jour - Artichokes and Water

2013-05-21T19:16:00.001+02:00

Pretty much the coolest fountain I've ever seen!

At the Château de Brécy, in Normandy.

Photo du Jour - Le Crôque Madame

2013-05-19T16:25:00.001+02:00

Le crôque madame. Simple, delicious French comfort food.

A Day in Normandy - Soaking Up Some History

2013-05-14T17:53:00.001+02:00

Seems like since moving to Normandy, we're more popular than ever.
In the last year we've had more friends come to visit than in the final few years we spent in the Languedoc. Is it the cows and apple trees? The sea? The proximity to Paris?

My bet is on our proximity to Paris. Being hidden away in the middle of vineyards in rural Languedoc is akin to living on Mars for some people.

Last week a friend from the Languedoc drove up to stay with us for a few days before heading to Brittany. This wasn't just any friend though...Laurent is an architect for the Bâtiments de France and is totally passionate about Romanesque and Gothic architecture. It was like having a history professor staying with us.

In one day I soaked up more culture and learned more French architecture terms than I ever thought possible. I also gained an entirely new perspective of the history of Normandy. It was an amazing experience and we felt incredibly spoiled to have our very own guide sharing his wealth of knowledge with us.

Photo du Jour - From Another Era

2013-05-09T16:53:00.001+02:00

They sure don't make them like this anymore!

Photo du Jour - City Slickers

2013-05-05T06:52:00.001+02:00

Enjoying some evening grazing time in Bayeux.

Photo du Jour - Old Tiles

2013-05-03T11:33:00.001+02:00

An old granite sink and wonderful black and white tiles at le Château de Brécy.

Italian Comfort Food and My Grandma

2013-04-29T18:31:00.000+02:00

Living so far away from family means that you sometimes miss the big stuff - birthdays, new babies, graduations, weddings and funerals. And sometimes you know that you just have to be there.

I spent a good amount of time with my grandma when I was visiting my family in February. She got sick shortly after I left, and after several weeks in and out of the hospital, she passed away on April 15 at the age of 96.
It was a huge shock.
As poorly as she was, I think we all expected her to bounce back, don her blue apron and head back into her kitchen. We all thought we would have more time to spend with her.

At first I debated going to her funeral. A last minute ticket meant that the cost was astronomical and due to a work commitment that I couldn't get out of, it would take me about as long to travel to Spokane as I would actually be able to spend in Spokane.
I went anyway. I knew I would regret it if I didn't.

It was a whirlwind weekend full of tears and laughter and hugs and family I haven't seen in years. And on the day of my departure, my dad got up extra early and started cooking in her honor. He spent several hours that morning making meatballs and marinara sauce, using her recipes. After indulging in a few for breakfast, dipped in sauce and enjoyed with little shards of Parmigiano-Reggiano, I left for the airport with a drippy, well wrapped sandwich stuffed full of garlic and parsley studded meatballs and smothered in sauce.
I sat in the airport in Minneapolis on one of my layovers and thought of her, all I had learned from her and all that she meant to our family, while I savored every single bite.

I know it would have made her smile.

Spring Has Arrived in Normandy!

2013-04-27T18:55:00.000+02:00

La Fromagerie de Bayeux

2013-04-13T20:22:00.000+02:00

As much as I love Bayeux, since moving here last winter it's been missing something I consider quite important for a French town of its size...a fromagerie!
It's strange, because you would think that here in Normandy, in the land of cheese and butter, there would be a cheese shop on every corner of every town. Sadly, that's not necessarily the case. Even Caen, a city with a population of almost 250,000, can boast only one fromagerie. And I've been there. Their selection is pretty pathetic.

So, I'm thrilled to report that since January, Bayeux is the home to a well stocked, friendly little cheese shop, La Fromagerie de Bayeux.

Its owners are no stranger to the cheese business. Jérémy Thomas, artisan fromager, spent several years working at Rungis and also learned the ins and outs of the business at his uncle's shop in Paris, la Fromagerie Pascal Trotté. His wife, Peggy, worked at the markets of Paris and is a third generation fromagère in her family. That's quite a legacy!
Luckily for us, these two decided to make Bayeux their new home.

And, as it's the only fromagerie in Bayeux, I have no doubt that I'll be voted their best customer by the end of the year. An honor I would graciously and happily accept!

The Dark Side to Instagram?

2013-04-11T14:30:00.000+02:00

Apparently I've been going along, innocently sharing photos with Instagram, thinking it was a service to have fun with and to be enjoyed.
Recently, however, I've learned that there's a dark side to Instagram.

According to a couple of articles I've read in the last week, the majority of people out there feel threatened and belittled by the photos their friends are posting of their "perfect" lives on Instagram.

Seriously?
Is this true? Do people really feel this way?

Ok, let's back up a minute. Remember once upon a time, a long, long time ago, when we still took photos with a camera that used actual film, and that film was developed into actual prints? Then those prints were put into albums that we would then share with friends and family? Photos of our parties, vacations, kids, pets, etc.
Did we consider these photos threatening? Was there really an ulterior motive to these photo albums? Were we really just trying to show each other up and make our friends and family jealous of how perfect we were?

No, we weren't.

It was about sharing our lives, not about jealousy or a petty "My life is better than your life" sentiment.

So, getting back to this whole feeling-threatened-by-Instagram thing...

Would seeing photos of the laundry piled up in my bedroom or the messy stacks of papers on our coffee table help you feel better about yourself? Probably not.
Sharing beautiful moments, a fantastic meal, a funny sign, our cats, our kids, our shoes, whatever, doesn't mean we're trying to show how perfect our lives are. And if you think it does, then I beg of you to lighten up. Because there is no dark side. There is no ulterior motive.

Remember, nobody has a perfect life. Nobody.

I Almost Chickened Out

2013-04-10T11:18:00.002+02:00

It took me a long time to write that last post, and I almost chickened out and left things as they were. Thankfully I didn't.
So, I don't want to get too mushy or anything, but your supportive comments and positive words mean a lot. I owe everyone a very heartfelt and huge thank you!

Scary and Exhilarating. All at the Same Time.

2013-04-06T15:08:00.000+02:00

Just writing this post is scary. But it's kind of exhilarating too. {deep breath}

I love writing, I love taking photographs and I love connecting with my readers.
I love having this blog.

Lately though, I feel like my passion is waning.

I feel like I shouldn't write about what I want to write about because it doesn't "fit."
Like I have to live up to certain expectations. Like I've painted myself into an "expat living in France" corner. And that is the only thing that defines me and this blog.
I'm starting to feel suffocated.

Admittedly, I am my own worst enemy. I am the one putting this pressure on myself and trying to live up to these ridiculous expectations.

So I've decided that it stops now.

Starting today I am going to write what I want, share what I want, and not worry so much. That means that some things will change and some things will stay the same. I guess it depends on how I'm feeling at that particular moment.

Being an American living in France is a huge part of this blog, and it always will be. Because I am an American living in France. And even now, after ten years of life in France under my belt, I still find joy in the little things, the little differences, and want to share them. There are so many facets of life here that I still find delightful. And fascinating.
I still want to capture those moments, those vignettes, those funny, sometimes frustrating, sometimes perplexing interactions.
They are still part of my life.
But there is so much more. More that I want to write about and more that I want to share.

And I'd love it if you would stick around and see where this all goes.

7 Reasons to Visit Normandy This Spring

2013-04-04T16:40:00.000+02:00

From the end of April until the end of September, the 2nd annual Normandy Impressionist Festival offers an extensive array of exhibitions and other events at numerous venues in both upper and lower Normandy.

The 32nd annual Jazz Sous les Pommiers takes place May 4-11 in Coutances. This event draws some big names and is a must for any jazz lover!

The city of Rouen will welcome the Armada Festival to its harbor in early June, with more than 50 tall ships expected to sail into town.

Le Musée d'Art et d'Histoire Baron Gérard recently opened in Bayeux. Admittedly, I am rather fond of this charming medieval town, and I think this new museum gives it just one more reason to visit.

Visit with local producers every Tuesday and Thursday at Cider and Calvados tastings throughout the month of April in the beautiful Normandy village of Beuvron-en-Auge.

For flower lovers, there's a Tulip Festival that runs until the end of April in the stunning gardens of the Château de Vendeuvre.

Late spring is the beginning of mussel season in Barfleur. I can't wait to head to our favorite place for moules frîtes!

Working Girl

2013-04-01T18:07:00.001+02:00

"Opportunities are usually disguised as hard work, so people don't recognize them."
- Ann Landers

Heading back to work tomorrow and I think this quote by Ms. Landers is just perfect!

Photo du Jour - Normandy's Quiet Beauty

2013-03-29T19:55:00.003+01:00

Le Fôret de Cerisy in early spring.

Finding a Job in France

2013-03-27T18:07:00.000+01:00

A question that frequently pops up from fellow expats in France is related to working. More specifically, how to find a job and how to get hired.* And right now, with unemployment figures what they are, things are tougher than ever.

I've heard from many frustrated people who don't understand why they're not being asked to go for an interview after submitting their CV to a company or why they're not getting hired after having an interview.

Here's what I think.

Over the last several years I've been hired by a half a dozen French companies (two of those jobs I turned down) and from my experience, the one thing that I think gave me an advantage was my ability to speak both French and English. And when I say, "speak French," I don't mean simply knowing how to order a meal in a restaurant or ask where the toilets are located. I mean being able to converse in French, talk on the phone in French and do business in French. Now I'm sure it may be possible to get by speaking only minimal French in a big city like Paris, out here in the provinces, local language skills play a pretty important role in daily life. And in finding work.

So if you don't have a good level of conversational French, you're probably going to have a tough time competing in the job market.**
Luckily, there is hope!

First, get your language skills up to speed. You're going to need them to navigate the employment websites and to approach potential employers. Go take a French class, join a conversation group, whatever it takes. Second, put together a professional looking, concise CV and Lettre de Motivation and ask a native French speaker to look them over and suggest any changes or corrections that you should make.

Then, start searching!
These are some of the resources that I've used over the years and that have been recommended to me:
Pôle Emploi - the national French employment website
Emploi Annonces - job board
Les Jeudis - job board
Monster France - job board
Indeed France - job board
L'Hôtellerie-Restauration - for restaurants and hotels
Stratégies - for marketing, PR, communications
Craigslist - most offers are in Paris
FUSAC - most offers are in Paris
The American Library in Paris has a community message board at the library in Paris offering employment opportunities - no ads listed online
French national and local newspapers
Networking! Ask people you know and friends of friends

Once you've landed an interview, don't panic like I did the first time I went for a job interview in French. I tried my best, but I stumbled over phrases and misunderstood questions. Yes, it was a great learning experience, but it was embarrassing and no, I didn't get the job. The second time I went for an interview I had a lot more confidence and I was offered the job.

You should arrive at least ten minutes early and bring some extra copies of both your CV and Lettre de Motivation. Even though they may already have a copy of each on the desk in front of them, they could ask to see another one. Dress conservatively and make sure your hair is well groomed. You will most likely be asked to describe both your best and worst qualities, so study your adjectives. Also, I think it's a good idea to research the company and have a question or two ready to pose about their business when they ask you if you have any questions. It shows that you have done your homework.
Finally, stay calm!

Job hunting is never easy, and doing it in a foreign language adds another dimension of difficulty. Try to remain positive and good luck!

As always, I enjoy and appreciate hearing from other expats who have experience job hunting and finding work in France.

More Helpful Links:
Finding a Job in Paris or the Ile-de-France Region (France.fr)
Finding a Job in France (Americans in France)
{Un}Glamorous Paris: Working in France (Prêt à Voyager)
French Work Culture (Lost in Cheeseland)
Finding a Job in France (The Local)
A Checklist: Getting a Job in France (Expatica)

*Not to be confused with people who want to move to France to find work, which is an entirely different subject. Please check your local French Consulate's website for current information about obtaining a Work Visa.

**Of course, having excellent French skills aren't the only thing you need to get hired!