Look What I Made

"I am thankful" craft

2014-05-04T21:24:00.001-06:00

Today for the Sunday School craft we made "Today, I'm thankful for:" boards. These would make a great Thanksgiving project, too, or mid May. :) First we had the kids talk about what they were thankful for, and then we discussed when we are thankful, WHO are we thankful to? We read three different Bible verses about thanksgiving, and then got busy on the craft. The idea is that the kids can change the answer in the middle, and then the dry erase marker will erase right off for a new answer the next day.

The original idea was from Simple Home Managing.

Supplies:

Frames (from the dollar store)
White card stock, cut into 5x7's.
Post-its
Dry erase markers
Printed on card stock and cut out:

"Today, I'm thankful for:" in white

Bible verses in various colors.

(We used Colossians 3:17, 1 Chronicles 16:34, 1 Thessalonians 5:18)

Quick directions:

Place the post it in the center of each, to create the future white rectangle.
Color away!
Pull off the post it.
Glue on "Today, I'm thankful for:" and the Bible verses. (We put a few on the front, and the extra on the back.)
Reassemble the frame.
Write the "thankful" item on the front.

Easter craft

2014-05-04T19:04:00.002-06:00

This is a minor departure from my norm, but I've been in charge of a few craft days for Sunday School recently, and I thought I'd share our creations here. We made these cross painting on Palm Sunday with all the Sunday school kids. Here are the four from my kiddos.

The idea came from a google search that landed me at a blog called Apples and ABC's.

She has a great tutorial on her site, so I won't repeat it. The only thing I would suggest to the kids is to be sure to paint all the way over the tape, either across or as a border, to make the best effect. (Note the one on the right did not do this, and the cross doesn't show up as well.)

It is a bit hard to see from the picture, but each says "Jesus is Alive!" on the right side. I did a few test runs, and found that doing it with a neon green worked the best. It was hard for the kids to see it before we painting, and then as they started painting it "magically" appeared!

Crochet Christmas Ornament Stars

2013-12-01T18:56:00.001-07:00

I made the kids' ornaments this year using a simple crocheted star pattern. The original pattern is here:
http://www.favecrafts.com/Ornaments/Star-Ornament-Crochet-Pattern-from-Caron-Yarn

The only change I made was to add the loop by adding a chain of 10, slip stitched back into the same space, at very the end.

Trip Around the World Quilt

2013-09-11T15:41:00.001-06:00

I finished up the quilt for Beatrix using a Trip Around the World pattern. Here is the website I used for a tutorial, which was just great. I did her variation using 9 fabrics. I used all flannel, and used the purple cupcake fabric for the back and binding. It doesn't show well in the picture, but I quilted it by machine, following each fabric across the diagonal to make a diamond pattern.

The "Trip Around the World" comes together so quickly for the top. I would do it again anytime. My only suggestions would be to not pick directional fabric, or be prepared to seam rip and rotate a few squares!

Infinity Scarf #2

2013-03-02T18:55:00.002-07:00

This was my attempt two at the infinity scarf. This one was a bit fatter and shorter than the white one. I used some chunky yarn and used the entire skein, using a N hook. It was a simple V-stitch that just took a couple of hours during a movie to whip up.

(I pulled the pattern off the internet somewhere, but didn't write down the source, so apologies to the original poster.)

Infinity Scarf Crochet Instructions:

Chain 19

Foundation Chain:
In the 4th chain from the hook dc, ch 1, dc (all in the same ch.) *Skip two chains and in the next chain work dc, ch 1, dc (all in the same ch.) Repeat 3 more times from * to end. In the last ch, work 1 dc.

Row 1:
Turn. Ch 3. Work dc, ch 1, dc in each of the ch 1 spaces. (The center of each "V".) At the end of each row do a dc in the last space (the ch 3 turning sp.)

Repeat until desired length.

Hold edges together and whipstitch ends together to form a loop. Weave in ends.

Quilted coasters

2013-01-23T13:31:00.001-07:00

I made these based on a tutorial from Martha Stewart. The only thing I did differently was to use free hand quilting. I figured this was a great size project to get in some practice machine quilting before working on wall hangings or quilts. I love how quick they were to put together, how it used up some scraps, and how easy they are to toss in the washer when they get covered in coffee stains!

Infinity scarf

2013-01-23T13:04:00.001-07:00

This was my first try at an infinity scarf, as modeled by Abigail. I used "brick" crochet stitch, using a K hook, and an entire skein of soft, white yarn. (I tossed the label, but it was just regular worsted weight yarn.) The brick stitch reminds me of a granny square, and is super quick to put together. I did this entire scarf while barely watching Madagascar 3 with my kids. :)

I found the "brick" pattern in a book called "Crochet Stitches: Visual Encyclopedia."

Infinity scarf directions:

Chain 18

Foundation row:
SC in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 3, sk 3 ch, sc in next ch; rep from * to end

Row 1:
Ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in each ch-3 sp across, dc in last sc, turn.

Row 2:
Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, ch 3, sk 3 dc, *sc between prev and next dc, ch 3, sk 3 dc; rep from * across to turning chain, sc in top of turning chain, turn.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until desired length (or near end of the skein.)

Place ends together and slip stitch across. Tie off and weave in ends.

Fall quilted wall hanging

2012-09-16T15:48:00.001-06:00

I just finished this fall wall hanging for my house. I hung it up in the family room, in a spot I hope to switch out with other seasonal wallhangings.

I found the pattern online here.

Sampler Afghan

2012-07-17T16:11:00.000-06:00

Another project I can pronounce finally done! I started it 5 months ago..... The squares came together quite quickly. Then we moved, and it sat. Finally I stitched the squares together, which only took a few sittings. Then it sat. And then today I finally did the dreaded weaving in of the strings and gave it a final single crochet around the edge.

Lessons learned for a sampler afghan:
Choose either to do lots of colors, or lots of patterns, but not both. I was doing this to use up scraps, but also picked almost all different patterns. I wish I had stuck with one or two. But it will still keep toes warm, and help the lid fit back onto my yarn bin again, so I call it a success!

Front

Back

Rag quilt letters

2012-07-13T12:29:00.001-06:00

I made a set of cotton letters for my niece Ella's first birthday. I followed this tutorial from a blog called Happy Together.

I just grabbed a bunch of cotton scraps and made each letter a different fabric, the same front and back. For the middle layer I used Warm and Natural batting. I thought it "ragged" the best after a few washings. I decided not to quilt the letters, like she did on the tutorial. I tried one with quilting and one without, and liked them the same, so went with the easier style! For the letters I used the font Ariel Black in size 500. (Set them to "outline" style so you don't use up so much ink.)

Happy birthday, sweet Ella!

X-Stitch Afghan

2012-03-02T15:43:00.001-07:00

Yoda says "Do or do not. There is no try." This should be my new craft project motto. As in DO FINISH!

I've been working on this afghan since October, I think. I did some here and there, but then it got set aside for other projects. Chloe was quite helpful along the way.

Today I finally finished! And then I immediately hopped online to find a new project. I'm hoping for something to burn through yarn scraps so I can get the lid on my bin again.

Seth loved to help me crochet, too, but sitting on one side of me and then the other as the blanket moved back and forth with each row crocheted.

I found the pattern for this afghan in the book 7 Day Afghans. I really like this book, it is the second project I've made from it, and I intend to use it more. Plus it is fun to just flip though. I do argue with the 7 day title on this one, though. I know I was a bit distracted, but even working 24 hours a day I don't think it could be done in 7. Anyways...

The pattern is basically one row of single crochet, and then the next row double crochet, but you cross the double crochets into little x's. She named the afghan "Plum Pretty" since she used more purple and dark blues. I think I'll name mine "done at last!" Or maybe "Seth's eyes." It matches him well!

Easy bird feeders

2012-02-19T14:48:00.002-07:00

The kids made these super easy bird feeders this weekend. They have all been peeking out the window hoping some birds actually stop by for a nibble.

Supplies:
Ice cream cones (flat bottom)
Pipe cleaners
Peanut Butter
Bird seed

1)Poke a small hole in the bottom of the ice cream cone. We used a chop stick, but a pencil would work well, too.

2) Roll up one end of the pipe cleaner into a ball. Feed the pipe cleaner into the cone so that the ball is inside.

3) Cover it in peanut butter.

4) Lick fingers

5) Roll the cone in the bird seed.

6) Hang on a tree with the other end of the pipe cleaner.

Rainbow Blanket Tutorial

2012-01-23T20:57:00.000-07:00

I just finished making this baby blanket for my cousin's new baby boy. The rainbow colors just make me happy! I spent the week singing "Over the Rainbow" and craving skittles! I liked making a strip rag quilt, as opposed to a rag quilt with squares, because you don't have to deal with the tricky intersections. It comes together really quickly, with all straight seams. Below are my directions for making a rainbow baby blanket. You could, of course, make this with any fabrics. Just keep in mind that only 1" of each strip will show, so avoid big patterns.

Strip rainbow rag quilt tutorial:

Supplies:

3/4 yard each of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple flannel

Rotary Mat, ruler, blade

Ragging Shears

Iron your fabric, but DO NOT PREWASH
Using your rotary cutter, trim selvedge, and then cut 2" strips from (removed) selvedge to selvedge.

After you are done you will have a rainbow of fabrics. You should have 12, 2" strips of each color, approximately 41", depending on selvedge size removed. This will make 6 rainbows.

Match up pairs of strips, wrong sides together. Sew them together, with right sides of different colors touching. (An example stack of 4 fabrics would be red right side down, red right side up, orange right side down, orange right side up.) Use a 1/2" seam allowance. It is easy to do but hard to put into words! Basically the top and bottom layer of your quilt will be exposed, and you are sewing the seams so they all face upward.

I did all the red/orange together, then yellow/green, and finally blue/purple. Make sure to put the first color on top each time, for example yellow of yellow/green. You will have some length discrepancies, depending on the fabric and selvedge, but this will put them all on one end of the quilt, and it will be easier to even up later.

Finished strip pairs.

Next, lay out the red/orange and yellow/greens, with both seams sticking straight up.

Pinch the orange and yellow together, making sure to keep the seam upward. Pin and sew orange/yellow together. Repeat with all six sets. Next add the blue and purple.

One of six completed rainbows. Now sew the rainbows to each other.

Almost done with the sewing part! The bottom corner is what the bottom of the quilt looks like; nice and smooth. The top shows the seams that will be clipped and ragged.

Use your rotary supplies to even up the quilt. I had quite a lot of size differences between the different colors. The green, in particular, was a lot shorter than the other five.

Give the scraps you cut off to your kid for a kitty tail.

Now you need to top stitch around the perimeter of your quilt, still using a 1/2" seam allowance. I just held each seam down before I went over it to make a smooth surface.

Now clip, clip, clip! It feels like you are almost done, but this is actually the most labor intensive part. You could use scissors, but I HIGHLY recommend getting ragging shears. They are extra sharp, and have a spring so they bounce back after each snip.

Snip about every 1/4 inch, close to the seam, but don't snip through it. On each row first snip next to the perimeter seam on each end, so that you can fold it over flat to snip easier.

This is the top clipped, but not yet washed.

And the smooth back of the quilt. (Note, the green really is the same size as the other colors, but it looks smaller on the front. I think the yellow is just a bully color and pushes it over.)

Now toss it in the washer! Since you didn't prewash, be sure to throw in a color catcher sheet. (They are sold near the dryer sheets at any store.) This will catch any colors that bleed. I usually put just a tiny bit of soap in, and wash it on warm.

After the wash, but before the dryer, take it outside and shake as much of the loose frays off as you can. Then into the dryer. Check it every 5 or 10 minutes, because the lint trap will keep filling up. Repeat the wash and dry at least one more time. It will keep fluffing up every wash, but the majority will happen in the first two washes.

My new scarf

2011-12-31T15:42:00.000-07:00

I have made lots of scarves, hats, and blankets. But I don't have any that I kept! So when Jenny gave me some beautiful wool yarn for Christmas, I knew that it would be for a scarf for me. No sharing. :) Jenny also gave me a new book, called Crochet Stitches: Visual Encyclopedia. I used a stitch called "double crochet group" to make the scarf.

Directions:
Chain an odd number of stitches. (I did 11, for a skinny scarf, using an H hook.)

Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook. (The skipped chains count as dc.) Dc in same ch. *sk 1 ch, 2 dc in next ch; rep from * across to last 2 ch, sk 1 ch, dc in last ch, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc between next 2 dc group across, dc in top of turning chain, turn.

Repeat row 2 until desired length.

Blue Seas Throw

2011-12-31T11:54:00.000-07:00

I made this afghan for my mom for Christmas. The pattern came out of a book called 7 Day Afghans. (As a side note, I really enjoy this book. It was fun to read and get ideas. I finished this throw, and have started another out of the book. I can't say that they get done in 7 days, but they are all simple patterns to follow.)

Bulky Weight Yarn. (I forgot to see the brand of yarn, but it came in these giant skeins, bigger than a football. I used all of 5 and a little of the 6th.)

Size N Crochet Hook

Instructions:

Chain 122

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch: 121 sc. Ch 3 (counts as first dc of following row), turn.

Row 2: Dc in each sc, ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Dc in each dc, ch 3, turn.

Repeat row 3 until piece measures 34" long. At end of last row ch 1, turn.

Last Row: Sc in each dc. Finish off.

FRINGE:
Work across each short side edge of afghan as follows: On right side of work, attach yarn at corner, sc in first sc row, *ch 10, sc over post of end dc on next row, ch 5, sc over post of next dc; rep from * across side edge, ending with sc in last sc row. Finish off.

Slippers

2011-12-27T18:30:00.000-07:00

I crocheted my first pair of slippers. Well, actually I made another single, ugly slipper, which didn't deserve to get a match. So I found a second pattern I liked better. The directions were honestly intimidating at first, but once I saw how it was coming together it seemed quite simple. I did use the H hook, as recommended, and they turned out a little small on my feet (size 10), but they were for my mom, who has smaller feet. I haven't heard a report, yet, if they fit well.

Here is the original pattern link at a site called "Around the Crochet Table."

And the directions in full:

Materials:
3 oz. Worsted Weight Yarn
Size H* crochet hook (for small adult/large child slippers)

Gauge:
7 dc = 2"; 2 dc rows = 1"
*To obtain a larger slipper, increase your hook size and gauge.
For smaller slippers, use a size F crochet hook and sport-weight yarn.

Pattern Stitches:
2-tr cluster: keeping last loop of each stitch on hook, tr in next 2 sts; YO and pull through all 3 lps on hook.

3-tr cluster: keeping last loop of each stitch on hook, tr in next 3 sts; YO and pull through all 4 lps on hook.

Dc dec: keeping last loop of each stitch on hook, dc in next 2 sts; YO and pull through all 3 lps on hook.

Directions:

Slipper (make 2)

Ch 21; do not join in a ring.

Rnd 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 10 ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 7 ch, 7 dc in last ch; working in remaining lps from opposite side of beg ch, dc in next 7 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next 10 ch, 2 sc in last ch; join to first sc. (47 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sts, hdc in next 9 sts, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, hdc in next 9 sts, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc; join to first sc. (53 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 22 sts, hdc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 3 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, hdc in next dc, sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc; join to first sc. (59 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 25 sts, 2 sc in next dc, sc in next dc, 3 sc in next dc, sc in next dc, 2 sc in next dc, sc in next 25 sts, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc; join to BLO (Back Loop Only) of first sc. (65 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 1; working in BLO, sc in same st and in each sc around; join to both lps of first sc.

Rnd 6: Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in same st as joining and in next 26 sc, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sc) twice, 3-tr cluster over next 3 sc, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sc) twice, dc in next 27 sc; skip beg ch-2, join to first dc. (59 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, dc dec over same st as joining and next st, dc in next 22 sts, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sts) twice, 3-tr cluster over next 3 sts, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sts) twice, dc in next 22 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts; skip beg ch-2, join to first dc. (51 sts)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, dc dec over same st as joining and next st, dc in next 18 sts, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sts) twice, 3-tr cluster over next 3 sts, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sts) twice, dc in next 18 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts; skip beg ch-2, join to first dc. (43 sts)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, dc dec over same st as joining and next st, dc in next 14 sts, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sts) twice, 3-tr cluster over next 3 sts, (2-tr cluster over next 2 sts) twice, dc in next 14 sts, dc dec over last 2 sts; skip beg ch-2, join to first dc. (35 sts).

Rnd 10: Ch 2, dc in same st and in each st around; join with sl st to first dc.

Rnd 11: Ch 2, hdc in same st and in each st around; join with sl st to first hdc.

Finish off and weave in all ends.

Christmas Ornaments

2011-12-27T18:26:00.000-07:00

I made the kids their Christmas ornaments this year. They were actually a kit from Oriental Trading Company. They were fun to emroider and put together. And even if the kids don't really appreciate them now, I'm sure they'll like looking back upon homemade ornaments, right? :)

Rainbow Crayons

2011-12-07T22:07:00.001-07:00

I haven't posted anything on this site in a while, even though I've been crafting away! After I made the snowflake doily I figured out how to make a few throw rugs. Then I started in on Christmas gifts. I'm making Christmas ornaments for my kids, plus a few other things that won't mention until the new year.

Today my kids plus two nephews recycled old crayons into new rainbow crayons. Here are directions for how we did it.

This was a fun project for the kids to help with, plus they get new use out of their old crayons!

Collect all your broken crayons.
Peel off the paper.
Break them into smaller pieces, if needed. They should be able to fit in the bottom of the muffin tin.
Arrange colors into cupcake papers, and place into an old muffin tin.
Bake at 250 until melted. (I forgot to watch the clock, but I'm thinking it was about 20 minutes.)
Let cool completely, then pull off the paper.

The kids are watching the crayons melt, which according to Seth "stinks!"

I tested a few out before the kids played with them. They seem a little hard to start coloring, but then do fine, almost like there is a clear layer of wax that needs colored off first.

Stars and hats

2011-10-12T14:30:00.000-06:00

I've been avoiding the yarn aisle when I shop recently, and instead have been trying to use up some scraps. This kids are helpful in this endeavor, requesting hats and scarves. Pictured are two hats for Zachary and Abigail. I also made a similar one for Seth. Plus two new scarves, one for me (finally) and one for Seth (which tends to live around Curious George's neck.)

Yesterday I pulled out the white and started a garland of snowflakes from THIS PATTERN on the Red Heart Yarn site. I ended up connecting them all together to make a doily. I started crocheting about two years ago, with the help of a few books, so the fact that more complicated instructions not only make sense to me, but can transfer from page to brain to a project is pretty cool to me!

Christmas Rag Quilt

2011-07-22T14:08:00.000-06:00

After I finished Zachary's quilt, I was still in the rag quilt sort of mood. I have a lot of scrap fabric, so I was going to dig through and pick out reds and greens to make a Christmas quilt. But when I got to the fabric store to buy a few more supplies I ended up with all new stuff.

I did a few things differently this time, besides the size.

Instead of batting, I used a layer of flannel, cut the same size as the other squares. I liked this a lot. The blanket has a very nice weight. I used green flannel, and the color peeks through all the seams.
I used regular cotton fabric on the top, instead of flannel. This worked just as well, and adds a huge range of choices for colors and patterns.
I used a solid color for the backs of the squares, red flannel this time.
I didn't sew the X's across each square fabric sandwich. I read this didn't need to be done if you are using flannel batting. I wouldn't skip this step again. I think the squares get a little bunchy. And after I clipped the seams and washed it, over half of the intersections fell apart and had to be sewn again.

I had intended for this to be a gift, but after I had to fix so many of the intersections I think it looks funny. But at least I have a Christmas quilt, now!

Rag Quilt Tutorial

2011-07-11T13:23:00.023-06:00

Last summer I made a rag quilt for Abigial, and I just finished one for Zachary. They are so easy to make. Each step progresses quickly into the next. I finished this one, from fabric selection to on the bed, in about a week and a half, just working on it an hour here and an hour there.

I made Abigail's after reading a bunch of blogs with other tutorials. My two favorites were from Green Apple Orchard and Jen Yu.

The following is my personal flannel rag quilt tutorial.

In each quilt I let the kids pick their own fabrics. So even if a few fabrics stand out to my eye, the kids love 'em. The tutorial will follow Zachary's quilt, but I'll refer to Abigail's a few times, since they were done a bit differently. These are also directions to make a twin sized quilt, but it would be simple to just use less squares to make a throw size or a baby size. Figuring out the math is one of the funnest parts! (Really, my mommy brain loves a minor challenge here and there.)

Materials needed:
Flannel to cut 240 8" squares. (DO NOT PREWASH)
We used 60 of the green, 60 of the blue, and 10 each of 12 random fabrics.
So I bought 3 1/2 yards each of the blue and green and 1/2 yard of the 12 randoms.
Batting to cut 120 6.5" squares (I like Warm and Natural 100% Cotton)
Matching thread
Walking foot for your sewing machine (Optional, but hugely helpful)
Rotary mat, ruler and cutter
Ragging Shears
Coffee

First step is to cut away! The batting squares need to be 1.5" smaller than the fabric squares. Since I did 8" squares of fabric, I needed 6.5" squares of batting. This was perfect, since my rotary ruler is 6.5" I could measure and cut very quickly.

Next cut all the fabric into 8" squares.
Here is everything in squares, except the green is missing. Perhaps I did bad math earlier in the week and didn't buy enough fabric. Perhaps I needed more coffee also.

The next step is assembling little fabric sandwiches. You will layer fabric, right side down, a batting square, and then fabric on top, right side up. Then sew and X across each square, sewing from corner to corner. The fabrics stick together well enough I don't pin.

I do this assembly line style, sewing a stack one direction, close together, snipping between, and then sewing the other way. You do not need to do the reinforcement stitch at this point.
Finishing the X the other way

After you have all the squares into a sandwich, lay out your pattern. (Abigail's quilt was in a set pattern, so I figured it out on paper, and then just grabbed the squares as needed.) Zachary wanted his quilt random. So I laid out the blue and greens in a pattern first, and then he placed all the fun fabrics between.

He ended up not very random, though, but wanted each fabric to run 5 in a row on the diagonals, with a little fudging in the corners to make it work.
I took one picture of it all for my reference in assembling.
I also decided to pin the numbers 1 through 12 on the left most square. Then I picked them up in order, and stacked them.

Next lay out one row at a time in order.

You will be sewing the entire quilt with the seams facing up. So to help remember which seam to sew, I literally pinch each intersection up so I know what edge I will be sewing.
Assemble each row, sewing with 1/2" seam allowance. I marked 1/2" with a fancy masking tape and sharpie line. You still do not need to pin or do the reinforcement stitch each time.

A completed row. Note all the seams sticking up at each intersection.

Once all the rows are completed, start putting them together. My little numbers helped here, especially, so I didn't have to keep referring back to the picture. Line the two rows up, and make sure you think through which side to sew so that the seams all remain up in the same direction.
Now it is time to pin. You have two choices with the intersections. You can either send the top one way and the bottom the other way, like the first picture, or split each side, like the second picture. I prefer the top way, but it makes no difference in the end, as each seam intersection will be clipped apart. I just think this way was easier to feed through my machine. Add in the reinforcement stitch now, too.

Here are two completed rows, with the view from the top, with all seams up.
And here is the view of the smooth bottom.

After it is all assembled, finish it off by stitching all the way around the exterior, with the 1/2" seam allowance.

Almost done! Now it is time to snip and snip all the seam allowances. You can do it with scissors, but these Fiskars ragging shears work so well and make the job easier and faster. I have one pair like this, and one pair that looks more like regular scissors but have a spring to make them bounce back. They both work well, but I prefer the ones in the picture. (Having a second pair came in handy when Nathanael helped me snip half this quilt, though!)
Snip about every 1/4", making sure not to go through the seams. (No big deal if you do, but it will need to be resewn.)
When you get to each row, first clip once at each side of the intersection, and then the quilt will lay flat when you fold it along the seam.
And then you can continue to clip along the length of the quilt. The intersections can be a bit tricky, but any technique will work as long as you get though all the layers.
After it is all clipped, you need to wash it. Some blogs said to take it to a laundromat, but I didn't have any troubles in my washer. I use Shout Color Catcher sheets in the washer. They look like dryer sheets, but grab any color that may bleed, since the flannel isn't prewashed. After the first wash take it outside and shake out as much of the lint as you can. Then dry, checking the lint trap every 15 minutes or so to clear it out. I washed and dried twice before calling it done, but it will keep getting softer and fluffier along the ragged seams with each wash.

Abigail's quilt used 7" squares, 1/2" seam allowances, so 6" final square. It was 11 rows by 14 columns, final dimensions 66"x84". She picked 10 different fabrics, and wanted them in a nice pattern. The first row used fabrics 1-10 sequentially, plus an extra #1. The second row went 2-10, plus 1 and 2. The third row went 3-10, then 1-3, etc.

Zachary's quilt used 8" squares, 1/2" seam allowances, so 7" final squares. It was 10 rows by 12 columns, final dimensions 70"x82".

Granny Square baby blanket

2011-06-20T13:48:00.000-06:00

I have made three of these Granny Square blankets, and enjoy doing the simple pattern. The directions (below) seem daunting until you are a few rounds in, and then you just go round and round and round until the blanket is done. I copied and pasted these directions off something way back when, but can't remember where it originated. The Granny Square is a pretty basic crochet design, though.

Ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, ch 1, (3 dc in ring, ch 1) 3 times; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 12 dc and 4 ch-1 sps.
Rnd 2: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp (first corner made), *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp (corner made); rep from * 2 more times; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 3: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, *3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 2 more times, 3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 4: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, *(3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) twice, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 2 more times, (3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) twice; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rnd 5: Sl st in each of next 2 dc, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in first ch-1 sp, *(3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) across to next ch-1 sp, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 2 more times, (3 dc in sp between next 2 dc-groups) around; join with sl st in top of beg ch.
Rep Rnd 5 until piece measures desired size. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Crocheted Hats

2011-05-25T08:47:00.005-06:00

I've been having fun crocheting hats recently. It is a good use of scraps, and I can sit down and make one in under and hour. It is a fun way to snuggle up with kids and cartoons without having to just watch cartoons.

I made one for Beatrix using extra yarn from her lovey blankie, and she has been wearing it everywhere.

I tried a few different patterns, but my favorite was a pattern called "Bev's Easy Round Baby Hat." Here is the link to her site. She recommends hook F for preemie, G or H for newborn.

Top of hat
Ch 2
Rnd 1: Make 15 dc into the 2nd ch from the hook, join with sl st into top of first dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), dc into same st, *dc, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * around, including in the very first stitch base, and join with sl st in the top of the first stitch. (23 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc into next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around and join with sl st. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, dc into next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around and join with sl st. (37 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2. Dc in each st and join with sl st. Rnd 6-9: Repeat rnd 5.
Final Round for Brim: Ch 2, dc into front post of the dc below, then dc into back post of the next dc below. Keep alternatiion fp and bp around. Join.

I made the one for Beatrix by adapting the pattern a little bit to make it more toddler sized. I used an H hook. I followed round 1. Did round 2 three times. Then did 11 rounds of double crochet. Then I added little loops by ch 4, skip a stitch and sc into next, repeating all the way around.

Tag Blankie Tutorial

2011-04-12T16:15:00.007-06:00

Jill made Abigail a tag blanket when she was little (the one in the 2nd picture,) and she loved it and loved it! As a baby she liked to flick-flick-flick the little tags, or get her fingers in the loops, or just suck on them. As she grew up they because nice place mats for tea parties, great doll blankets, and the occasional frisbee. (I think maybe I should subtitle this blog "Things Jill made for my kids that I copy now.")

Now the tag blankie is one of my go to baby gifts. They are simple to make, and I can whip out a set of 4 or 6 in an afternoon. I usually make them assembly line style, repeating each step for however many I am making. For this picture tutorial, though, I just did one.

Materials:

Soft fabric like fleece or minkee. I used to always use fleece on both sides. But then I discovered the super soft minkee fabric, and I like to use that on one side. I wouldn't use two sides with minkee, though, because I think it wouldn't have enough form.

Ribbon. You can start with as few as 5 different ribbons, but the more the better. There is almost always a bin of $1 ribbons outside craft stores. I have grabbed one here and one there, and before I knew it I had a giant bin full. Most of the mine are 5/8" width, but a variety of sizes makes the blankies more fun.

Step 1: Cut fabric into 9" squares. (You could go bigger or smaller depending on your fabric. This piece of minkee was 18" so I just went with 9".) You'll need two pieces of fabric per blanket.

Step 2: Cut an assortment of ribbon into 4" strips. You'll need 20 per blanket.

Step 3: Choose the 20 ribbons you want for your blanket. (I used 2 sets of 10 different ribbons.) Set them out in the order you intend to place them onto the blanket.
Step 4: Take one piece of fleece, right side up, and space the ribbons out evenly, right side down.
Step 5: Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew down the edge of the fleece, attaching the ribbons. Just before you get to each ribbon, flip it into a loop, and hold it as you stitch. The raw edges of the ribbon will touch the raw edge of the fleece.
Do this on all four sides and you will get the following.
Step 6: Place your second piece of fabric right side down on top of the ribboned fabric. (If I'm using two pieces of fleece I usually don't pin, since they stick together pretty well. But with minkee I do pin, because it is slippery stuff.) Sew around the outside, using a 1/2" seam allowance (you can sew right on top of the seam holding down the ribbons for a guide.) Leave a 2-3" opening for turning.

Flip it right side out, and you should have the following. Notice the opening at the bottom.
Step 7: Lay the opening spot flat and pin.
Step 8: Top stitch as closely as you can around the edges. This will finish it off, and close the opening without any hand stitching!
All done!

Directions without pictures:

Materials:
2-9" squares of fleece or 1 fleece and one minkee
20-4" pieces of various ribbon

Step 1: Cut fabric into 9" squares.

Step 2: Cut an assortment of ribbon into 4" strips. You'll need 20 per blanket.

Step 3: Set the ribbons out in the order you intend to place them onto the blanket.

Step 4: Take one piece of fleece, right side up, and space the ribbons out evenly, right side down.

Step 5: Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew down the edge of the fleece, attaching the ribbons. Just before you get to each ribbon, flip it into a loop, and hold it as you stitch. The raw edges of the ribbon will touch the raw edge of the fleece.

Step 6: Place your second piece of fabric right side down on top of the ribboned fabric. Sew around the outside, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Leave a 2-3" opening for turning.

Step 7: Lay the opening spot flat and pin.

Step 8: Top stitch as closely as you can around the edges.

V Stitch baby blanket

2011-04-03T14:35:00.001-06:00

This was the first time I have used a V Stitch to make a blanket, and really liked it. The blanket came together so quickly, and except for the first row, you don't have to pay much attention to what you are doing at all. I found this pattern on the Lion Brand Website. The yarn was Lion Brand Vanna's Choice, which was baby soft, but still pretty chunky, and I needed 4 skeins. I used a K hook.

DIRECTIONS:
Ch 85.
Row 1: (Dc, ch 1, dc) in 5th ch from hook (V-st made), *sk next 2 ch, V-st in next ch; rep from * across to last 2 ch, sk next ch, dc in last ch – 27 V-sts at end of this row.
Rows 2-40: Ch 3, turn, V-st in each ch-1 sp across, dc in top of turning ch.
(Honestly, I didn't count the rows, but just went until it looked big enough to me.)

Border: Single crochet at even intervals around all four sides. (Original directions called for a picot border, but I don't like making them or how they look.)