Venus in Furs

There's Something About Mary

2012-02-28T15:02:00.000+00:00

My latest fashion article on The Cardiffian:

It’s that time of year again. More sparkly than Valentine’s Day, scarier than Halloween and camper than Christmas. It’s London Fashion Week.

The highlight of the week had to be Mary Katrantzou, winner of the Emerging Talent Awards at last year’s British Fashion Awards.

Featuring her trademark illusory digital prints, inspired by trompe l’oeil, on structured lampshade-shaped dresses embroidered with typewriter keys, spoons, pencils and phone dials, Katrantzou’s collection was innovative as it was fun.

Known for her daring use of shape and structure, Athens-born Katrantzou created an entertaining and inventive collection for Autumn/Winter 2012-13.

Before the show, she said her inspirations for the collection were, “still life, crayon box and Victoriana,” and she encapsulated each of these elements with humour and craftsmanship.

Katrantzou’s work was as brilliantly entertaining as ever, but the knowledge and skill with which she creates her collections should not be overlooked: Victorian-style bustled dresses, strict corsetry and undulating neck ruffles all bear the marks of haute couture artistry.

The whole collection was redolent of a Victoriana psychedelic dreamscape, full of unexpected twists and bursts of colour on traditionally restrictive staid shapes and structures.

The star of the show was undoubtedly the “pencil pencil skirt”. The skirt was part of a neon-bright yellow and magenta embroidered dress, with a beautiful square neckline and a skirt made of real HB pencils. The pencils fanned out along the skirt and were created with Lesage, a French couture embroidery specialist.

The collaboration was the first time Lesage has ever worked with a London Fashion Week designer, which shows the respect Katrantzou already commands in the fashion world.

One of Katrantzou’s most memorable prints was of a bathtub, with the foam bubbles made in relief from encrusted pearls and patterned over an Elizabethan-inspired, high-necked silk top. Another features teaspoons as a repeat print on a peplum skirt, while an old-fashioned rotary telephone dial print was scattered all over a stiff silk cape.

Peplums, chiffon capes and quirky prints were juxtaposed with the couture cuts and the contrast created a beautiful dynamic. It was as if the two balanced each other out. The formidable couture cut and the quirky, bordering on silly, prints combined to create an accessible and covetable collection.

Katrantzou cited crayon box as one of her inspirations, and that was how she chose to present the show. She divided the collection into seven distinct colour spheres and sent models down the catwalk in each colour group. The thought and aesthetics which went into not just the collection but the display itself was extraordinary.

After the show , Katrantzou said: "I chose the items per colour, it was important to me to associate colours with one everyday, mundane item."

The Katrantzou brand has quickly become a cult hit. Her collaboration with Topshop sold out online within days and the floral goody bags at her show were gone in seconds. Her collections from her first in 2008 to her most recent are going from strength to strength, and it seems we can only expect more from the doyenne of print.

Icon #12

2012-02-22T21:13:00.001+00:00

She's just had the highest honours in fashion bestowed upon her - a namesake Mulberry bag and a Vogue cover - and it seems things are just going to get bigger and better in 2012 for the babelicious Lana Del Rey.

I also really like the things she does with flowers.

Sports Luxe for Spring/Summer 2012

2012-02-20T20:33:00.002+00:00

Victoria Beckham, Spring 2012 Collection

My most recent fashion article for The Cardiffian:

RACER necklines, bomber jackets, neoprene and slouchy track style trousers: you could be forgiven for thinking the worst of the 1980s had returned with a vengeance.

But fear not the return of the chav and fake Burberry check, as sports wear has gone high fashion. Scattered across catwalks for spring/summer 2012, and clearly influenced by the impending Olympics, sportswear is the new by-word in all that is fashionable.

Stella McCartney, the doyenne of sports luxe after her sold-out collaborations with Adidas, created asymmetrical dresses with sporty mesh insets. Anoraks, netting and silk tracksuit trousers all graced the catwalk at the Lavin, Hakaan and Antonio Berardi Spring/Summer 2012 collections.

Anoraks (yes, anoraks) got glamorous at Kenzo, Victoria Beckham and DKNY while Alexander Wang did a neat twist on the shell suit, making it sexy and short.

Shift dresses with contrast piping were comfortable and, for a catwalk trend, accessible. Meanwhile, silk track pants were teamed with loosely tailored smocks for a modern spin on le sportif.

On the high street, pleated skirts as seen at Victoria Beckham have already started appearing. Topshop has some beautiful tennis style dresses while Miss Selfridge has mesh cut out bodies on offer for less than £30.

Keywords for this trend are: mesh, zips, stripes and bright colours in simple, sporty silhouettes. Crop tops, two tone and trainers all starred on the catwalks, with designers such as Alexander Wang, 3.1 Philip Lim and Isabel Marant all referencing sportswear in their recent collections in New York.

For a winning look as opposed to being mistaken for an extra from Shameless, make sure you team your sportswear with clean, minimal shapes and colours. A monochrome palate works best for night and don’t be afraid to mix sportswear with the other big trend for 2012: pastels.

Julien MacDonald SS 2012 at LDN Fashion Week

2012-01-06T22:22:00.000+00:00

Welsh designer Julien MacDonald once again impressed with his Spring/Summer 2012 collection, featuring strong, structured shapes accented with panels of leather mesh and skinny metallic belts.

MacDonald’s use of laser cut leathers, bonded jersey and plasticised wool showcased his couturier skill and craftsmanship.

The collection featured nude chiffon dresses embroidered with Chinese dragons in silver and black beads. MacDonald told Vogue one of these intricately embroidered dresses took more than 60 people to create.

Contrasting with the sequins and studs were soft, flowing silk handkerchief dresses embellished with beading and tiny yellow flowers.

Macdonald has a reputation for high octane glamour, and this collection certainly didn’t disappoint.

Designer Spotlight: Jayne Pierson

2011-11-24T15:18:00.001+00:00

Welsh designer Jayne Pierson graduated from the University of Glamorgan with a First in Fashion Design, combining several of her units with modules at Central St Martins. The Llanelli based designer then went on to win the London Graduate Fashion Week Ecological Fashion Award. She then interned at Alexander McQueen, Galliano and Vivienne Westwood before launching her own label with her début SS 2010 collection being shown at London Fashion Week in September 2009. This debut collection garnered so much interest Vogue Italia named her as one of Britain’s freshest new talents in 2009 and 2010.

Pierson’s latest collection, her fifth, for SS 2012 featured the Royal Ballet’s principal dancers gliding down the catwalk at London Fashion week. The collection were designed in collaboration with fellow designer Derek Lawlor and the pair named their collection “Pierson Lawlor”.

The collection used leather and silk in a soft palette of taupe and sand with the occasional burst of metallic burnt orange. Tassles and fringing further emphasised the contrast between the fluid, flowing silk and the rigidity and strongly structured shapes formed by the leather. This juxtaposition was further accentuated through the use of the dancers rather than models, with the clothes reflecting both the vulnerability and strength of the dancers.

Pierson said this use of fabric in the collection was “An intercultural world, organic structures and morphing textures.”

Pierson said: “I love the idea of breaking down conceptions,”

“Recreating conceptions of textiles, like leather which is often associated with fetish, and wool which has old-fashioned connotations. This is something completely new and I’m so excited!”

Pictures courtesy of The Style PA http://www.flickr.com/people/thestylepa/

Versace for H&M Winter 2011 Video

2011-11-09T22:53:00.000+00:00

A-mazing.

CardiffCouture

2011-11-05T13:07:00.002+00:00

Hello Guys and Dolls! As part of my journalism postgrad I have created a niche fashion blog, so if you are interested in Welsh fashion, designers, models or boutiques, do check out http://www.cardiffcouture.wordpress.com and, of course, I will love you forever. Also promise I will get posting on here again as soon as possible! Ciao ciao xxx

Icon #11

2011-09-20T14:38:00.002+01:00

'I am against marriage, and I don't give a fig for society.'

-The babelicious and vaguely offensive Brigette Bardot.

Lanvin Autumn 2011 Dancing Campaign

2011-09-12T20:13:00.005+01:00

I literally cannot stop watching [and laughing at] the new Lanvin Autumn 2011 campaign film. Shot by Stephen Meisel, it stars Karen Elson and Raquel Zimmermann dancing to Pitbull's 'I Know You Want Me'. Both sweet, ironic and more than a little funny, the most memorable part has to be Alber Elbaz himself popping into shot and shoving some young bucks to one side in order to claim the dancefloor fully. It's just...brilliant. Eagle eyed readers/ stalkers will know I tweeted about this video at the end of August, but I feel now, a particularly miserable Monday, is the time to share;

Hilair! Oh, and the clothers are pretty sexy too.

Fashion Week NY - Jason Wu Spring Summer 2012

2011-09-11T22:42:00.005+01:00

It’s that time of the year again kids; New York Fashion Week, heralding the return of the fashion pack and bringing new trends, new styles and, most importantly, new designers to the city. My favourite collection so far [all 2 days in, naturally] has been Jason Wu's Spring Summer 2012 show. Wu has created a sporty and ladylike collection, featuring floating skirts, peplums galore, beautiful beaded collars and...windbreakers. Oh yes, windbreakers have gone high fashion and they look good; chiffon-y, floaty and oh-so haute couture, dahhhling. Overall, the collection itself was polished and strangely sexy, much like the windbreakers themselves.

Wu stated in a recent interview that for this collection he ‘looked to combine the refinement of couture with the dynamism of the Pop Art movement’, and it’s a vision that worked. Bright pops of colour juxtaposed with a wonderfully subtle monochrome floral hand print pattern [conceived in collaboration with the artist KAWS], which was just visible behind Wu’s classic petal print on trousers, blouses and dresses.

Wu offset his sharply tailored waistlines with strong peplum silhouettes and full skirts. Chiffon blouses were decorated with intricately beaded collars and Swarovski detailing, and skirts with asymmetric hems were teamed with edgy black lace-up stilettos and bright blue and green python handbags. Colours were bright and clashed wonderfully with the otherwise monochromatic palate; canary yellows, cobalt blue and bubblegum pink added a playful element with a sexy and sportif edge.All-in-all, a veritable triumph for Mr Wu. See the catwalk show [above] and pictures [below] yourself. Yummy!

Runway photos: Imaxtree

Icon #10

2011-09-07T18:52:00.008+01:00

'It was great fun becoming famous, but I got tired of it'

- Jean Shrimpton. Who doesn't love a bit of the Shrimp?

Slave to Good Marketing - Dior

2011-08-31T21:29:00.002+01:00

So, it turns out I am a slave to good marketing. I actually started writing this particular post back in May when I first bought my beyoo-tiful Dior Addict lipstick, after seeing the sexy, sexy Kate Moss advert [see above]. I stumbled across this lonely draft, realised I haven’t done any reviews recently and thought this might just be the perfect time to start reviewing again ['the perfect time’, as in I am doing anything and everything to avoid shorthand practice for my upcoming Postgrad Journalism course in September. erk.]

Anyway, the lovely French/Irish [not sure accent-wise, so best to cover all bases] man on the Dior counter at John Lewis helped me find the perfect shade; the exact one Mossy is wearing in the short, obvs- DiorKiss 578. He then proceeded to do my entire face a la Moss – thick black cat-eye flicks of liquid liner at the corner of each eye and a subtle sheen on the cheekbones. I think he must have been bored. Actually he was really lovely; he complimented my hair and gave me a little goody bag of Dior postcards with samples of the Dior Addict range, plus a little Miss Dior Cherie diary with pictures of the equally fragrant Natalie Portman, but I digress...

The point of this entire post is that the texture of the Dior Addict range is drastically different to other lipsticks – for instance, to wear my everyday Dior Rouge [in Hollywood Pink], I usually have to apply lip-balm before the lipstick itself, as it tends to dry my lips out very quickly. However, the new Dior Addict range comes with a whole new formula, containing less wax and more gel, making it feel lightweight, smooth and moisturising. Or, as the official line puts it, the range ‘contains a completely new sensorial formula providing vibrant colour and shine' which is 'a pleasure to apply'.

And what a pleasure it is! With 44 shades to choose from, the colour spectrum available in the Dior Addict range contains strong, bold colours in every shade you can dream of. I’ve taken an admittedly rather crappy picture on my webcam of me wearing the lipstick, so you can get an idea of quite how moisturising/glossy it is;

Oh, and if you’re interested in getting Le Moss's look, she is wearing 804 Perfecto Dior Vernis nail varnish with Dior Rock Coat and her cat eyes are courtesy of Style Liner in 094 Black. And with that, à bientôt mon petit chous!

Brace your Beehive!

2011-08-30T12:15:00.009+01:00

1. Burberry Prorsum Coat, £1,495, www.matchesfashion.com

2. Susan caplan vintage jewellery GOLD, £475, www.matchesfashion.com

3. McQ Tartan wool puffball mini dress, £470, www.net-a-porter.com

4. Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner, £13, www.ASOS.com

5. Bottega Veneta Lace cummberbund dress, £1,710, www.net-a-porter.com

6. M Missoni Natural 60's Box Print Dress, £491, www.my-wardrobe.com

7. FELINE Rust sunglasses, £18, www.haydenharnett.com

8. Chanel vintage bag in Burgundy, £2,835, www.matchesfashion.com

9. Gosford Off White Mary Jane Heels, £60 - www.topshop.com

10. Dior Vernis 'Fall 2011' Nail Lacquer Psychedelic Orange 545, £14.50 www.nordstrom.com

I do hope you enjoyed my casual bit of 'groovy' alliteration in the titles - yas, very proud, thank you, why yes I did think of it myself. Today’s sixties themed antics were inspired by September’s issue of Vogue, which has proven to be a veritable smorgasbord of stylish delights. Featuring the first ever DVD of catwalk trends for AW 2011/12 from London, Paris, Milan and New York and an international collections special, it highlighted key trends and the best ways to wear them [particularly useful for the fetish trend; no-one wants to look like an extra from a bad horror film]. As for the magazine itself, weighty enough to kill someone [but glossy enough for it to be a very stylish murder] it has the added bonus of featuring the gorgeous Freja Beha Erichsen on the cover, wearing a rather beautiful sequinned dress from Dolce and Gabbana.

Vogue cites Sixties style icons Mary Quant, Twiggy and Julie Christie as inspiration for this seasons coolest trend; ‘Two-piece ensembles in fabrics that really hold structure, like felt and wool, bridge the gap between ladylike and mod perfectly,’ says Vogue's Calgary Avansino.

Fool-proof sixties dressing is simple once you have invested in just one or two key pieces; Car coats, bracelet sleeves, polo necks and of course, the miniskirt teamed with knee-high boots are a quick and easy way to an on-trend look. Beehives were popular on the catwalk at Jean Paul Gaultier and Bottega Veneta [who have made the most perfect skirt suit] and flicked eyeliner completes the look. Groovy baby!

Icon #9

2011-08-16T10:36:00.000+01:00

'Dogs never bite me. Just humans'

Oh, Marilyn. How we love thee.

Chanel Cruise 2012 - 'The Tale of a Fairy' Short by Karl Lagerfeld

2011-08-09T22:24:00.006+01:00

The Tale of a Fairy is a rather exciting short film written and directed by Karl Lagerfeld to showcase the 2011/12 Chanel Cruise collection.

Starring Anna Mouglalis, Freja Beha, Bianca Balti, Amanda Harlech, Kristen McMenamy and Baptiste Giabiconi among others, the film is about “an ill-advised use of money which begins with violence and ends with feeling” according to Lagerfeld. As one would expect from Chanel, the clothes and accessories are exquisite and Freja Beha as the fairy more than makes up for some slightly wooden acting by the other models. The film features a couple of rather steamy snogs too. Sexy.

Trendwatch: Forties Glamour AW 2011/12

2011-08-03T21:24:00.006+01:00

Just a quickie today, as my laptop has decided to have a nervy-b and apparently is suffering from some sort of 'fatal error', squeaking angrily at me whenever I try to turn it on. Ergo, I am on my little sister's ancient computer, so bear with the intermittent blogging in the interim.

Basically, I am very overexcited about the Autumn/Winter trends for 2011. One of the most exciting to emerge has to be the Forties glamour trend, with its numerous references to the heyday classics of Aquascutum and Burberry; capes, tweed, leather, tailoring, pearls and fur. Heaven. I have, for some reason, fixated on procuring a pair of soft-as-butter leather driving gloves, which would obviously improve my quality of life tenfold, and a [faux] fur stole [ditto]. In actual fact, I would love an antique ivory cigarette holder, but as I don't smoke I probably can't justify its purchase, even to myself. Unless I take to smoking lilac Sobraine cocktail cigarettes a la homosexual thespians of the 1920's? Hmmm...

Anyway, back to the shows; Gaultier sexed the Forties look up on the catwalk, with thigh-high slits added to otherwise demure pencil and midi-length skirts, while Gucci added pussybow blouses and a jaunty fedora or two, perhaps in a nod to the other 2011 AW heavyweight trend; the androgynous silhouette. Strong, glamorous and grown up, leather and fur add a quirky twist to this otherwise sophisticated trend.

Meanwhile, makeup tended to lean towards a classic strong red lip, teamed with arched eyebrows and long, natural-looking eyelashes. The look was updated with natural, glowing and dewy skin [rather than the traditional 1940's matte face]. Easy, versatile and striking, the perfect look for AW.

All hail the return of the Forties Fashionista!

Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

2011-07-19T20:53:00.000+01:00

I’m a terrible person. If this blog was a tamagotchi, it would have starved to death by now. However, final year exams, final year exam results, final year exam result celebrations AND graduation are definitely valid reasons to have neglected one’s blog, right? Wrong, probably but c’est la vie and such is life. On a purely self centred level [perhaps my favourite level], this is one of the better times to have returned to the fashion blogosphere, as of course the Autumn/Winter 2011 couture collections have just finished at Paris Fashion Week. As I step out, blinking the innocent eyes of the newborn graduate, taking my first tentative steps into the ‘real’ world, the sharp tailoring and witty detailing of this year’s shows have been a ready source of inspiration for future office-friendly outfits.

For once, Chanel received a couple of rather lacklustre reviews with some reporters and bloggers variously describing the collection as ‘sad’ ‘gloomy’ and ‘underwhelming’. However, I loved the show. I thought the return to classic, durable pieces such as the tweed suit, full-length dress and the midi skirt teamed with over-the-knee and knee-high boots is exactly what is needed in the current fashion [and indeed financial] climate. ‘It’s androgyny versus femininity,’ said Lagerfeld the night before the show. ‘One is an exaggerated feminine shape. The other is more boyish…..but not at all butch, mind.’ Noted, must keep that in mind, thanks Kaiser.

Whilst the mood was, admittedly, more sombre than Lagerfeld’s usual exuberant shows, the setting in the middle of the Grand Palais was absolutely stunning. Built as a replica of Place Vendome, where Chanel had an apartment, the show started at 10pm [so as to be flooded in moonlight] and was completed with a massive obelisk topped with a chrome statue of Coco herself, in one of her signature suits.

Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman described the collection as ‘very Mary Poppins-like – an extravagant governess, it was strict’, citing the prim hemlines and layered evening wear. The classic Chanel skirt-suit was given a modern twist with nipped in waisted jackets and a distinct stiff peplum, contrasting with a strong, bold shoulder. Colours included black, navy, white, grey and an intense magenta. My favourite detail was the little boater hats each of the models wore at the back of the head, redolent of punting and afternoon tea. Therein, perhaps, lies the problem some fashion reporters had with the collection; it was just so overwhelmingly English, but English in the best sense, old-fashioned English; lawn tennis, strawberries and lazy summer afternoons, as opposed to bulldogs and casual racism. The demure and elegant appearance of long sleeves and hemlines (the midi was firmly ensconced in the collection, so it’s clearly not going anywhere for A/W) continues the lady-like trend of this year’s spring/summer collections, with the fishtail detailing on skirts and dresses adding a playful touch to an otherwise sophisticated collection.

What do you think of Chanel’s Autumn Winter couture for 2011-12?

Icon #8

2011-04-30T11:32:00.000+01:00

'Models are there to look like mannequins, not like real people. Art and illusion are supposed to be fantasy.'

-The indomitable Grace Jones

Die Antwoord - Fashionistas?

2011-04-28T10:20:00.000+01:00

It is a truth universally acknowledged that a South African band with a prevalence for tattoos, shaved heads, confusing facial hair and gold lame are unlikely fashion icons. Yet Die Antwoord and their distinctive style are filtering slowly but surely through pop culture into fashion land; see their photo shoot in December's NYLON and absolutely mental performance at fashionable music festival Coachella last year for prime examples.

Their newest video, 'Rich Bitch' is a veritable feast of all that is tacky, distasteful and wrong with the world. Its also absolute genius; expect gold everything; teeth, nails, skimpy boxer shorts [which leave very little to the imagination] and at one memorable point, a gold lame gimp-style catsuit. My girl crush on Yolandi Visser has increased tenfold, plus I now have the serious lusts over her gold RICH/BITCH knuckledusters.

Die Antwoord - putting the freaky back into fashion;

Hussein Chalayan's 'The Floating Dress'

2011-04-21T11:05:00.000+01:00

Hectic times between dissertation, finals and interview stress, (am now going to the University of Cardiff's School of Journalism for my MA in September - kerching!) mean that I've been a very bad blogger, and would like to apologise for the lack of posts recently.

I also want to say thank you for all the support, comments and views this blog have received, as its been completely unexpected and quite overwhelming. To show my gratitude, (and as a promise that I will start posting again soon) watch this gorgeous little video, just to keep your fashion synapses a-tingling.

Inspired by Japanese culture, Hussein Chalayan created a floating dress for his A/W 2011/12 collection, using Swarovski crystals as decorative pollen;

"With all our collaborations with Swarovski we've tried to create a new language which combines fashion, performance and design so that we can create something unique every time,” says Chalayan.

Icon #7

2011-03-12T17:53:00.000+00:00

'I spent my 16th birthday high as a kite jumping out of a tree topless in my local park just because it felt amazing hitting the ground.'
-Florence Welch in Chanel at Paris Fashion Week.

Zac Posen launches Z Spoke ready-to-wear collection at NY Fashion Week

2011-02-12T15:22:00.000+00:00

Posen launched the cheaper Z Spoke line just a few short months ago, declaring it to be the new ‘fashion-tainment’, but the A/W 2011-12 collection debuts a decidedly more serious look. Posen told Style.com, ‘Last season was about launching it to the media, this season, it's about direct to the consumer and retailer.’

And launch it to the customer he certainly does - while the S/S 2010 show was considered too exaggerated by some, the A/W collection is pure, unadulterated chic, with classic pieces in black, inky blue and grey softened with the occasional dash of pink. Grown-up, tailored shifts in wool and hammered silk and liquid jersey dresses contrasted sharply with structured leather accessories and dark eye and lip makeup. The slinky cut-out gowns and structured/flowing contrasts in newly toned-down shades are more universal when compared to the line’s previously over-vibrant incarnation. The new aesthetic for Z Spoke is serious without compromising on style, with the added twist of Posen’s characteristic edgy cool - culminating in a visual smorgasbord of fashion delights.

As for the upcoming show for his signature line in Paris, Posen implies there will be plenty more of this new, grown-up philosophy, ‘I think in general with collection and with Z Spoke, we're moving into a more streamlined identity of my original language.’

Icon #6

2011-02-06T15:35:00.000+00:00

'I don't want to be cool, I want to be fashion.'

- The fantastical Anna Dello Russo

Bling Bling

2011-02-05T17:04:00.000+00:00

You may remember from a post waaaay back in December, my huge love for O.P.I's Special Edition Burlesque Collection, especially in 'Bring on the Bling'. Well, some lovely little elves in the form of my housemates have bought me the liquid [glitter] gold, and I don't think it’s a hyperbole too far to say it Has. Changed. My. Life. Just two coats of the wonderfully gloopy lacquer creates gold glitter encrusted nails worthy of a unicorn on LSD - and here's the picture to prove it.

Transgender Model Lea T Inspirational at Fashion Week

2011-02-05T16:32:00.001+00:00

How tardy that this is the first blog post of the year! Between finals, illness and of course, partying in the New Year, this poor blog has been very much neglected - but, as Elton once said, the bitch is back. To start 2011 as we mean to go on -positive action in fashion;

Lea T is brilliant, an absolute beauty and by far my favourite model of the moment. Her bravery, courage and overall tenacity in becoming one of the first successful transgender [soon-to-be super] models is, without meaning to sound trite, truly inspirational. And while everyone keeps going on about that kiss with Kate Moss on the front cover of Love, [Erm, hello? Coronation Street’s Hayley, anyone? Not exactly groundbreaking] I say get over it- instead, revel in her overall loveliness and admire her unique position as both spokesmodel and role model for the transgender community.

The 28-year-old Brazilian model and muse made her debut catwalk appearance at San Paulo Fashion week last week, walking for designer Alexandre Herchcovitch’s A/W 2011 show, leaving many fashion critics excitedly speculating whether she will walk in the Givenchy show in Paris in the upcoming weeks.

It was when working as an assistant to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy that Lea began experimenting, telling Vogue; ‘One night, he [Riccardo Tisci] encouraged me to wear heels to a party. We went shopping for these drag queen high heels and bleached my eyebrows. It was a revelation.’

She then went on to star in the Givenchy A/W 2010 campaign, has appeared naked in French Vogue and in haute couture for Italian Vanity Fair, speaking candidly to the latter about the physical and emotional challenges of gender transition.

Yet Lea is not without her detractors - some critics have dismissed both Tisci and Carine Roitfeld's use of her in shoots as ‘gimmicks’. But as a positive spokesperson for the transgender community, Lea’s increasing fame and candid interviews can only be seen as having an overwhelmingly positive effect, through encouraging understanding and empathy.

Reactions towards Lea amongst the transgender community have been overwhelmingly positive, with many activists seeing her fame and increasing popularity as a step towards greater tolerance. ‘It's a good, positive example and this is very rare,’ said La Roche, a transsexual who heads a Brazilian government department fighting for transvestite and transsexual rights. ‘It is important to have Lea in a magazine. All positive press shows society that we are capable of things other than prostitution or being hairdressers.’

The prejudices and everyday humiliations incurred when changing sex are all too familiar for Lea. From being laughed at by strangers to the disorientating effects of sex change drugs – ‘I would wander the streets, full of hormones, depressed, with people laughing behind my back’, Lea is proving to be an eloquent and quietly inspirational ambassador for a very much marginalised and maligned community.

‘We transsexuals are born and grow up alone. After the operation we are born again, but once again alone. And we die alone. It is the price we pay.’ Yet the choice, she says, ‘is between being unhappy forever or trying to be happy.’