Terry's Gardening Blog!

Plant a Free Tree

2010-04-22T17:15:00.002+01:00

Help us Plant 1 Million Trees!

Do you know that the Rainforests are being decimated by unlawful logging activities?

Do you know that Carbon Dioxide in the atmosphere will increase hugely as a result?

Do you know that the Rainforest is home to about 70% of animal, bird, insect and plant life on Earth which are now at risk of extinction?

Do you know how important the Rainforest is to the whole Ecosystem of the Planet?

Take off those blinkers and earplugs, settle back and listen.

Fact 1. Trees provide almost 1/3rd of the oxygen we need to breath.

Fact 2. Trees convert Carbon Dioxide in the air into solid carbon and store it safely in their trunks.

Fact 3. Trees prevent soil erosion through their root systems which bind the soil together and provide protection from the wind.

Fact 4. Trees protect the Ecosystem by providing shelter beneath their foliage.

Fact 5. Trees help to reduce ground temperature.

Fact 6. At the present rate of destruction, the Amazon Rainforest will all but disappear by 2030.

It's time we stopped talking about it and did something about it! A world without trees is the ultimate nightmare scenario. Now, many people say that under-developed Nations have a perfect right to try to Industrialise urgently in an attempt to improve living standards for their people and I have some sympathy with that. I mean it is clear that in the very first Industrial Revolution in England, Nature was given short shrift and the earth was savaged for coal and iron ore, and the "dark Satanic Mills" of legend introduced the concept of mass production and Factory conditions to the World.

Isn't it a bit hypocritical that having gone through that upheaval and having created our modern civilisation, we are now lecturing the under-developed world when they are trying to follow our exampleand improve their lot? The answer is yes to that, but with this caveat. We are now more acutely aware than ever before of the dangers outlined above and what I am proposing is that at the same time as Industrialising, we should also be actively replacing the resources we are depleting.

So, alongside Industrialisation, it is possible to restore huge areas of Rainforest if we have the will to do so. By planting trees in large numbers, we can recapture Carbon, restore the Ecostructure and as a by-product, provide work for local Communities.

So how can we achieve any of this? Easy - simply visit the web site below and join our free Tree Club. Simply leave your name and e-mail address - that's it - all free and nothing else to do.

http://budurl.com/plantafreetree

We are on a mission to help our planet restore the millions of trees that are lost each year. For every one who leaves their name we will commission the Charity "Trees For The Future" to plant one tree just for you! "Trees For The Future" is a charity that has been responsible for planting millions of trees all over the world. Our donations so far have resulted in tons of trees being planted in the name of our members. With your help, the number will grow much higher and we will reach our goal by next year.

go to http://budurl.com/plantafreetree and join us. When you have done that,

click the "Tell A Friend" button to refer a friend now! It's free.

Is there Anybody Out There? - Please Talk to Me!

2010-04-07T08:43:00.000+01:00

I have been sending out this gardening blog in a variety of styles for some years now. I have produced well over 250 Articles, photos and videos on gardening topics that I thought might appeal to a gardening audience. I have written over 110 Articles, published in Ezine Article Directories.Throughout that time, despite getting regular traffic to the site very few people have bothered to take the time to leave me a message or comment - good, bad or indifferent!

That has been very discouraging I must admit. Makes me wonder if there really is anyone out there reading this at all or am I merely deluding myself? So an appeal from me - drop me a comment or two. Let me know what you think of the site. Tell me about yourself. Ask me a question. Let me know what gardening problems you need answers for! Talk to me - let me know there is someone out there taking an interest.

In short is E.T. really out there or am I wasting my time producing this Blog?

Terry

Lawn Mushrooms - How to Deal with them!

2010-04-07T03:52:00.001+01:00

terry's garden blog - over 250 Articles on matters germaine to gardeneres everywhere - for FREE!

Lime - What is Lime used for in Gardening?

2010-04-04T13:25:00.003+01:00

What is Lime Used for in Gardening?

For those of you new to gardening, the issue of soil preparation may be a mystery. Believe me it is more than just turning over a sod or two with a spade. I was talking to a friend today about PH and Lime application, and it was apparent from our conversation that this whole area is a mystery to some.

One of the most misunderstood issues in gardening relates to that magic phrase "PH" - so what's it all about? Well, all soils are generally speaking acidic in character, to a higher or lower extent, dependent in each case on a number of variable factors at work in the soil forming process for that individual "soil." Most gardeners recognise the importance of the following influences:

The surface features or topography of the area
The prevailing climate particularly rainfall leaching.
The influence of time
The nature of the soil itself
The type of living organisms active in the soil
The level of fertilizer use

All of these factors are at work and the synthesis of their interaction over time results in a particular level of acidity for that soil sample. So why is acidity so important? Well, it depends on the plants you are growing of course and some plants do better in acidic conditions, but as a general rule high soil acidity is a "no - no" for most plants.

So how do we work out soil acidity? It is obvious that we need some simple measure of soil acidity so that corrective action can be taken to reduce acidity and improve growth conditions. Well, this is where PH comes in. Without going into too much technical jargon, PH is simply a way of calibrating the level ( or potential "P") of hydrogen ions ( H+ ) in a solution of water. It gives us a measure of acidity.

By mixing a solution of soil and distilled water in a 1:1 solution, the PH of the water solution in equilibrium with the soil can be accurately recorded. The lower the PH the more acidic the soil sample. The higher the PH the more alkaline the soil sample. PH is usually measured on a scale of 1 to 14, so that at a PH of 7, the soil sample can be said to be neutral. The lower the PH level the more likely it is that metallic components are present. So below a PH of about 6.0 the incidence of metals such as copper, zinc and manganese increases to toxic levels. Above 6.0 the incidence of nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium increases to beneficial levels for plant growth.

Each plant species is suited to different growing conditions of course, and slightly acidic soil can help to keep down blight in potatoes for example. On the other hand, slightly alkali soil has a higher level of salt present which may not suit your particular crop. Generally however, gardeners tend to aim for neutral PH of around 7.0 in most cases.

So, faced with an acidic soil, what can the gardener do to improve soil quality? Well, this is where lime comes in. You can raise soil PH by applying Lime to the soil. Lime is made by crushing limestone or chalk, whose main active ingredients are calcium and magnesium carbonates and oxides. ( Don't worry - you can buy it at your local Garden Centre ). On application, a chemical reaction occurs which changes some of the hydrogen ion concentration into water and carbon dioxide - in effect diluting the hydrogen ion level and raising the PH measure to a more alkali friendly number. Liming in this way can provide a source of calcium, improve water penetration and increase bacterial activity. Be careful to understand however that Lime is a chemical and overliming can be harmful too.

Lime can be applied throughout the year, but most gardeners will apply it during Winter or early Spring. Remember that Lime is insoluble in water so thoroughly mix the lime with the top soil. Once moisture is applied the lime will start to chemically react, so thorough mixing in dry conditions is very important.

Don't forget that different plants thrive in different soil conditions, so make sure you know which PH level your plant needs before deciding how much or how little Lime to apply.

Grow Crocus Flowers - Welcome to Spring.

2010-03-28T11:55:00.006+01:00

I was strolling through our local park today basking in the Sunshine. The clocks went forward at midnight last night and there was a real feel of Spring in the air. A cold gusting wind was blowing, but nevertheless, the sight of the Sun in a blue, almost cloudless sky, raised my spirits enormously. It has been a long, dark, cold winter, (whatever happened to global warming!) and we in the North of England desperately need some warm weather to cheer us up.
Trudging along, my eye was attracted to a splash of colour dotted about on the grass and on further inspection, this turned out to be a carpet of Crocuses, in a profusion of yellow, purple and white colours. God must have been having a good day when he created the Crocus. There is nothing more guaranteed to raise the spirits than the sight of a profusion of Crocuses spreadeagled across the grass. I just love the seemingly undisciplined way they grow - no straight lines, just a myriad of colours waving at me in the wind. It is as though someone has taken a paintbox of colours and sprinkled them haphazardly in a carpet across the grass.
The Crocus, or Saffron is one of the Lily family, and is a hardy perennial plant which is believed to have originated in the Mediterranean area where it was first harvested, so legend has it, on the Island of Crete! As one of the first flowers to bloom in spring, crocuses are of course immensely popular. The plants grow from corms and their cup-shaped, solitary, "salverform" flowers taper off into a narrow tube. Their flowers and leaves are protected from Winter snow and frosty conditions by a waxy cuticle and it is a wonderful sight to see them pushing their way up through a sprinkling of snow.
Cultivation of the plant is no trouble at all, as they can be left very much to themselves to develop, although they do need regular cutting back as they seed abundantly. They thrive in light, sandy, gritty, well drained loam, flowering usually at the beginning of March in the UK. They should be planted in a sunny position, although some species do prefer shadier sites. The corms should be planted about an inch and a half to two inches deep.
So if you want to create a brilliant and uplifting display in your garden for next early Spring, take my advice and plant Crocus flowers, you won't be sorry!

Carnations and Mothers Day!

2010-03-14T17:29:00.005Z

Well my friends, today is Mothering Sunday in the UK - Mother's Day. Sadly I lost my Mother some years ago - in 1969 to be precise - and still miss her dearly. Funny isn't it how you always regret the things you shouldn't have said or done and remember the things you should have said and done when they were with us.

Sadly that's the human condition I think - we never know when the Grim Reaper will appear over the horizon. Think about it, we are all of us merely one heartbeat away from meeting our God - (whatever or whoever that is for any individual). Concentrates the mind doesn't it. In this modern world we are so mollycoddled through our addiction to Consumerism that we seem to have forgotten that we are after all human and our time on this Earth is finite.

In earlier years, an acceptance of death was part of our daily living experience. We in the West didn't have the wonders of modern Science to protect us - modern drugs and medical advances have wiped out so many of the diseases that claimed lives so cheaply in earlier centuries, certainly in Western Society. I think we have forgotten that man, like plants is subject at the end of it all to the demands and strictures of Nature. We all have an allotted time and when it is up, we have to go!

Anyway, I simply wanted to say that I took some flowers to my Mother's grave this morning and chose to take a bouquet of Carnations. And that prompted me to put some notes together about that flower, which is extremely popular in the UK.

If sowing from seeds you should sow Carnation in cutting boxes round about now, in March. Set out the ensuing young plants as early as possible and nip off the centre of the plants so that they can branch out without restraint.

Carnations will also grow well from cuttings which are best taken round about Autumn time. Cuttings taken from the plant base are usually best and you should pot them and maintain them in a cool environment, about 45 to 50 Degrees F. Nip off the tops while growing in the pot, and keep them secure until it comes time to plant them out , usually early in April. Keep them moist while potted.

When you do start to plant out, plant into loose soil, which should be well manured and water in well. The plant does better in partly shaded conditions,
and you must keep pinching off the tops regularly, when they will bloom throughout the Summer months.

Flowers are usually taken up by September, when you can unearth them carefully, and pot them securely until root growth has begun. You will need to water well and moisturise the flower foliage regularly. You will add to the size of the main flowers by nipping off the side buds. All in all a plant well worth cultivating.

How to Grow Courgettes!

2010-03-12T09:33:00.001Z

You know it's a funny old world. I got a notification from my Publishers Ezine Articles.com this morning giving me statistics on my top 3 viewed Aricles of all time and guess what - this really blew me away - top of the heap was an Article I wrote some years ago on "How to Grow Courgettes" - of all things!!! I had forgotten all about this one but it seems popular as 8590 people have viewed it.

So for old times sake and just for you here it is again in all its glory!

How to Grow Courgettes!

Courgettes are a firm fleshy vegetable, which has grown in popularity over the years. It is in the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes marrows, squashes and pumpkins. Courgettes are an easy crop to grow; children are fascinated with their flowers and excited by the crops rapid growth. Plants like these kindle interest in gardening at an early age which gives hope for the future, for once the passion for growing plants and good quality home grown foods has been kindled, it generally continues throughout a person's life.

Courgettes are best eaten soon after harvesting them when they are fresh and at the peak of their flavour. In cooking, courgettes can be boiled, steamed, baked, fried, grilled and roasted. They have a delicate flavour so can be cooked with herbs to add variety.

Soil Preparation

Courgettes prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow. Begin by digging a trench 4 in. (101mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; the courgettes can be planted into the ridges, 3 ft. (90cm) apart.

Sowing Under Cover

Sow the seed mid March through to late May putting two seeds into the pot ½ in. (12mm) deep, at a temperature of 65 to 70 deg F. (18 to 21 deg C.) the weaker one can be removed if they both germinate. Harden off the young plants by putting the first sowing into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.

Sowing Direct

Sowing direst into the ground where they are to grow sowing two seeds per station, this can be done in mid May until early June at about 3 ft. (90cm) apart. When the seeds have germinated they can be thinned out removing the less vigorous seedling.

Planting

Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut into half, the bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck of the bottle onto the plants. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck, I secure a small piece of fleece with an elastic band.

General care

Courgettes require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can be used as mulch. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one, however slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side, position a few slug traps around the base of the plants. Cold conditions could restrict the activity of pollinating insects and so the fruits may fail to set. Should this happen it may be necessary to assist with pollination by removing a male flower and gently brush it against the female flowers, which can be distinguished from those of the male, by the slight swelling behind the flower.

Harvesting

In a good summer, courgettes can often be cut in August; keep cutting them when they are about 4 to 6 in. (101mm-15cm) long, do not be tempted to leave them longer because the flavour will not be quite as good. The plants will continue cropping until well into September. Use a sharp knife to cut the fruits from the plants, twisting or pulling will often damage the stem and possibly the whole plant.

Varieties to Try:

'Ambassador': Good flavour with a high yield.

'Defender': Has good resistance to cucumber mosaic virus, heavy cropper.

'Gold Rush': Yellow skinned variety.

'Tondo di Nizza': Spherical fruits

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com/. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance.

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source:http://www.EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

Article on "How to Care for Your Ficus Ginseng Plant"

2010-03-11T13:16:00.001Z

http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot..com Terry's Garden Blog - a repository for over 250 Articles related to gardening. A huge variety of knowledge and experience free to dive into. Most of these Articles have been published on http://www.Ezinearticles.com - this video gives a foretaste on the Article "Ficus Ginseng Plant" which is featured on my blog!

Ficus Ginseng Plant!

2010-03-10T11:59:00.001Z

Today i received a Ficus Ginseng plant as a gift and knowing very little about keeping them, I have started some basic research.

Apparently...

. A ficus bonsai tree may look good in your home but if you do not have the time and the patience to take care of it, you might as well forget the idea. You see, ficus bonsai trees are sensitive to changing environments and need constant attention. You need to tend to your tree every day to keep it healthy and beautiful. Therefore, busy people who keep erratic work and social schedules should not keep this type of plant at home.

. On the other hand, if you are one of those people who works a regular 9 to 5 job and then comes home to an empty house to eat dinner in the kitchen and then watch TV for the rest of the night, keeping a ficus bonsai plant is a good thing for you to do. Instead of wasting all your time sitting on the couch and watching TV when you get home, you can keep yourself busy tending to your bonsai tree. Tending to your bonsai tree is really a lot more relaxing and challenging than watching TV.

. Ficus will grow decently in low light, but thrive in high light conditions.

. Prune back to 2-4 leaves after 6-10 leaves have grown. use a dull pruning tool on Ficus, as a clean cut made by a sharp tool tends to bleed more than a dull cut.

. Water moderately, increasing in summer and decreasing in winter. Many Ficus are very tolerant of being over or under watered, which makes them ideal for beginners. The Ficus also enjoys a daily misting to maintain humidity.

. Repot every 2-3 years, although some will grow rapidly enough that yearly re-potting may be necessary. The best time is before a new growth spurt, especially in spring, but Ficus can literally be re-potted any time of year if reasonable after-care is given.

. Roots can easily be pruned by half. Basic bonsai soil is recommended, although Ficus tolerates many soil conditions.

All in all the ideal indoor companion without the need for walkies or a pooper scoop!

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

Rose Winter Protection!

2010-03-03T09:42:00.008Z

Once you have your roses planted it is time to look out for those predators lurking out there which thrive on your blooms.

Most Summer insects that trouble roses are best treated by a forceful spray of clear water. This is an easy preventative measure to take and should be done early in the day and again in the evening. It should keep most rose pests in check. A good insect repellent powder or spray from your Garden Centre are also good.

The rose-bug or chafer should be hand-picked or knocked off early in the
morning into a pan of coal oil. The leaf-roller must be crushed and any mildews can be controlled with a sulphur spray

For winter protection, all garden roses should be well mulched with leaves or coarse manure in the Autumn. Place a mound of earth round the root and this will afford more than adequate protection.

Another approach is to bend down the tops and fasten them carefully with twine. You can then place a thick layer of dry, dead leaves over and around the plants - ensure they are dry though! Then you can make use of those lawn clippings - simply
put handfuls round the dry leaves, heaped highest in the middle and at least 4 inches thick. This will hold the leaves in place and will allow water to run off.

This protection should be applied to your everblooming roses, including the
teas. The tops should be killed back if not bent down, but this protection
saves the roots and crowns - so when bent down, the tops will be undamaged in most Winters.

Of course most garden centres will sell you strong plants of everblooming or hybrid tea roses at very reasonable rates, and rather than go to the trouble of protecting
them in the Autumn, you may prefer to buy what you need for bedding purposes each Spring. If the soil of the beds is well enriched, the plants will make a rapid and luxuriant growth, blooming freely throughout the Summer.

Pruning Roses!

2010-03-03T04:36:00.005Z

I've been asked again about pruning roses. I am never sure why there is so much doubt about this subject - something to do with the fear of over cutting perhaps. When about to prune roses, you should first determine whether they bloom on canes arising each year from the ground or near the ground, or whether they make perennial
tops. You should also form a clear idea of whether an abundance of flowers is wanted
for garden effects, or whether large specimen blooms are desired.

If you are pruning the common garden roses, you need to cut back all very vigorous canes to perhaps one-half their length immediately after the June bloom is past. This will have the effect of producing new, strong shoots for Autumn flowering, and also to make good bottoms for the next year's bloom.

Very severe summer pruning, however, is likely to produce too much leafy growth. In the Autumn, all canes may be shortened to 3 feet, four or five of the best canes being left to each plant.

In Spring, you can cut canes right back to fresh wood, leaving perhaps four or five good buds on each cane because it is from these buds that the flowering canes of the year are to come. If you prefer fewer blooms, but of the best size and quality, then leave fewer canes and only two or three new shoots should be allowed to spring from each cane the following Spring.

The rule in trimming all cane-bearing roses is this - cut back weak growing
kinds severely - cut back strong growers moderately.

Climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches and the tips
shortened in. Other hardy kinds will usually need cutting back about
one-fourth or one-third, according to the vigour of the branches, either
in the Spring or in Autumn.

All everblooming or hybrid tea roses will need to have all dead wood
removed at the time of uncovering them in Spring. Some pruning during
the Summer is also useful in encouraging growth and flowers. The
stronger branches that have flowered may be cut back one-half or more.

Sweet briers, Austrian and rugosas may be kept in bush form; but the
trunks may be cut out at the ground every two or three years, new shoots
having been allowed to come up in the meantime. All rampant growths
should be cut back or taken out.

Planting out Roses!

2010-03-02T07:28:00.009Z

When planting roses, you must take care to avoid exposing the roots to the
drying effect of sun and air. If you have bought dormant field-grown plants
make sure that all broken and bruised roots are cut off smoothly
and squarely. The tops also will need to be cut back. The cut should
always be made just above a bud, preferably on the outer side of the
cane.

Strong-growing varieties may be cut back about one-fourth or one-half,
depending on whether they have good or bad roots. Weaker-growing kinds, as most
of the everblooming roses, should be cut back-most severely. In both
cases it is well to remove the weak growth first. Plants set out from
pots will usually not need cutting back.

Hardy roses, especially the strong field-grown plants, should be set in
the early Autumn. It is better to get them out just as
soon as they have shed their foliage. If not in Autumn, they may be planted
in the early Spring. At that season it is advisable to plant them as
early as the ground is dry enough, and before the buds have started to
grow.

Dormant pot-plants may also be set out early, but they should be
perfectly inactive. Setting them out early in this condition is
preferable to waiting till they are in foliage and full bloom.
Growing pot-plants may be planted any time in Spring after danger of frost is past, or even during the summer, if they are watered and shaded for a few days.

Open-ground plants should be set about as deep as they stood
previously, other than budded or grafted plants, which should be set so
that the union of the stock and graft is 2 to 4 inches below the
surface of the ground.

Plants from pots may also be set an inch deeper than they stood in the pots.
The soil should be in a friable condition. Roses should have the soil
compacted immediately about their roots. As a general rule the
dryer the soil the more firmly it may be pressed.

Generally, roses on their own roots will prove more satisfactory than budded
stock. On own-rooted stock, the suckers or shoots from below the surface
of the soil will be of the same kind, whereas with budded roses there is
danger of the stock (usually Manetti or dog rose) starting into growth
and, not being discovered, outgrowing the bud, taking possession, and
finally killing out the weaker growth.

Still, if the plants are set deep enough to prevent buds of the stock from
starting at all, this can be avoided.

More on Roses!

2010-03-01T05:47:00.002Z

There are so many classes of roses that the intending planter is likely
to be confused unless he knows what they are. Different classes require
different treatment. Some of them, as the teas and hybrid perpetuals
(the latter also known as remontants), bloom from new canes; while the
rugosa, the Austrian, Harrison's yellow, sweet briers, and some others
are bushes and do not renew themselves each year from the crown or bases
of the canes.

Outdoor roses may be divided into two great groups so far as their
blooming habit is involved:

(1) The continuous or intermittent bloomers, such as the hybrid perpetuals
(blooming chiefly in June), bourbons, tea, rugosa - the teas and hybrid
teas being the most continuous in bloom.

(2) Those that bloom once only, in summer, such as Austrian, Ayrshire, sweet
briers, prairie, Cherokee, Banksian, provence, most moss roses, damask,
multiflora, polyantha, and memorial. "Perpetual" or
recurrent-blooming types have been developed in the Ayrshire, moss,
polyantha, and others however.

While roses flourish in a sunny exposure, nevertheless dry atmosphere
and hot summers are sometimes trying on the flowers, as are severe
wintry winds on the plants. While, therefore, it is never advisable to
plant roses near large trees, or where they will be overshadowed by
buildings or surrounding shrubbery, some shade during the heat of the
day will be a benefit. The best position is an eastern or northern
slope, and where fences or other objects will break the force of strong
winds.

Roses should be carefully taken up every four or five years, tops and
roots cut in, and then reset, either in a new place or in the old, after
enriching the soil with a fresh supply of manure, and deeply spading it
over. In Holland, roses are allowed to stand about eight years. They are
then taken out and their places filled with young plants.

The best soil for roses is a deep and rich clay loam. If it is more or
less of a fibrous character from the presence of grass roots, as is the
case with newly plowed sod ground, so much the better. While this is desirable, any ordinary soil will be fine, provided it is well manured.

Cow manure is strong and lasting, and has no heating effect. It will
cause no damage, even if not rotted. Horse manure, however, should be
well rotted before mixing it with the soil. The manure may be mixed in
the soil at the rate of one part in four. If well rotted, however, more
will not do any damage, as the soil can scarcely be made too rich,
especially for the everblooming (hybrid tea) roses. Care should be taken
to mix the manure thoroughly with the earth, and not to plant the roses
against the manure.

2010-02-26T10:20:00.001Z

Grow Roses!

2010-02-26T08:57:00.019Z

In looking back over the many articles I have written over the years on this blog, I have to say that my interest has been largely directed at Lawns and Vegetables. How remiss of me to ignore to a large extent that area of gardening which is the crowning glory of any garden - I mean growing and viewing and smelling FLOWERS - one of God's greatest gifts.

This year, I will try to make up for that lack by spending more time looking at flowers in the garden, and there really is no better place to start than with my favourite flower - the ubiquitous Rose!

It's true.....No garden is complete without roses. There are so many kinds and classes that varieties may be found for almost any purpose, from climbing or pillar roses to highly fragrant teas, great hybrid perpetuals, free-blooming bedders, and good foliage subjects for the shrubbery.

Roses are essentially flower-garden subjects rather than lawn subjects,
since flowers are their chief beauty. Yet the foliage of many of the
highly developed roses is good and attractive when the plants are well
grown.

To secure the best results with roses, they should be placed in a
bed by themselves, where they can be tilled and pruned and well taken
care of. Ordinary garden roses should rarely be grown in mixed borders
of shrubbery and it is usually advisable also to make beds of one variety rather than to mix them with several varieties.

If you want to have roses in mixed shrubbery borders, then you will do well to choose the single and informal types. The best of all these is "Rosa rugosa."

This has not only attractive flowers through the greater part of the season, but it also has very interesting foliage and a striking appearance. The great profusion of bristles and spines gives it an individual and strong character. Even without the flowers, it adds character to a foliage mass.

The foliage is not attacked by insects or fungi, but remains green and glossy throughout the year. The fruit is also very large and showy, and persists on bushes
well through the winter.

Some of the wild roses are also very excellent
for mixing into foliage masses, but, as a rule, their foliage
characteristics are rather weak, and they are liable to be attacked
by thrips.

How to Grow Strawberries

2010-02-13T09:54:00.007Z

Here we are in February, just coming out of a hard, cold, black winter. I don't know about you but I am longing for some sunshine. Roll on Springtime! This winter has been so depressing, so I make no apologies for looking ahead to those "hazy, lazy days of summer"
To that end, summer always puts me in mind of strawberries. They just go together somehow like peaches and cream. So I threw this article together in the hope that it will raise your spirits and get you looking forwards to those halcyon summer days.

The origin of the name strawberry is up for argument. In old
Saxon, the word was streawberige or streowberrie and was so named,
says one authority, "from the straw-like stems of the plant, or from
the berries lying strewn upon the ground." Another authority tells us:
"It is an old English practice "to lay straw between the rows to preserve the fruit from rotting on the wet ground, from which the name has been supposed to be derived.

More likely it is to do with the wandering habit of the plant, "straw" being a corruption of the Anglo-Saxon "strae", from which we have the English verb "stray."
Again it is said that in the good old days, children strung the berries on straws for sale, hence the name.

History lesson and speculation over. What is a surprise is to learn that strictly speaking, the small seeds scattered over the surface of the berry ARE the fruit, and it is to perfect these seeds that the plants blossom, the stamens scatter, and the pistils receive the pollen on the convex receptacle, which, as the seeds ripen, greatly enlarges, and becomes the pulpy and delicious mass that is popularly
regarded as the fruit. So far from being the fruit, it is only the much altered end of the stem that sustains the fruit or seeds.

Ok, so let's look first of all at soil preparation for growing these little beauties.
It is accepted that the very best soil and the one adapted to the largest number of varieties, is a deep sandy loam, moist, but not wet in its natural state.
The earth should be properly deepened and fertilised and the ground chosen away from shaded areas. Strawberries will not thrive in ground exhausted by roots and covered by the shade of trees.

So position is important. Placing early season varieties on warm, sunny slopes, and late season varieties on moist, heavy land, and cool, northern exposures, the season of this delicious fruit will be prolonged greatly.

Growing Cucumbers!

2010-02-11T18:13:00.007Z

I was in my local Supermarket today and came across a shelf full of the ubiquitous cucumber. Wonderful for salads and sandwiches. They are not native to the UK, having originated I believe in India where a large number of different varieties can be found throughout the Continent.
It has been cultivated for at least 3,000 years in Western Asia, and was probably introduced to other parts of Europe by the Romans. Records of cucumber cultivation appear in France in the 9th century, England in the 14th century, and in North America by the mid-16th century.

The cucumber grows as a creeping vine that roots in the ground and grows up supporting framework, wrapping around with thin, spiraling tendrils. The plant has large leaves that form a canopy over the fruit.
The fruit is roughly cylindrical, elongated, with tapered ends, and may be as large as 60 cm long and 10 cm in diameter. Cucumbers are grown to be eaten fresh, but a good housewife with economy in mind can actually pickle them.
As compared to eating cucumbers, pickling cucumbers tend to be shorter, thicker, and have bumpy skin with tiny white or black dotted spines. Color can vary from creamy yellow to pale or dark green. Cucumbers are soaked in brine or a combination of vinegar and brine, (never vinegar alone), often along with various spices. Pickled cucumbers are often referred to simply as "pickles" in the U.S. or "Gherkins" or "Wallies" in the U.K.

Cucumbers are mainly eaten in the unripe green form and contain over 90% water content, so are ideal for those on a diet.
Having an enclosed seed and developing from a flower, cucumbers are scientifically classified as fruits. Much like tomatoes and squash, however, their sour-bitter flavor contributes to cucumbers being perceived, prepared and eaten as vegetables.

Evergreen Gardening!

2010-02-10T17:30:00.005Z

Whenever I am asked for recommendations for evergreen gardening plants, I invariably advise people to start with the ubiquitous Box plant. Box, or "Buxus" is a genus of about 70 species in the family "Buxaceae" - Common names include box (majority of English-speaking countries) or boxwood (North America).
Box plants are native to western and southern Europe, southwest, southern and eastern Asia, Africa, Madagascar, northernmost South America, Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean, with the majority of species tropical or subtropical; only the European and some Asian species are frost-tolerant. Centres of diversity occur in Cuba (about 30 species), China (17 species) and Madagascar (9 species).
They are slow-growing evergreen shrubs and small trees, growing to 2-12 m (rarely 15 m) tall.
The leaves are opposed, rounded to lanceolate, and leathery; they are small in most species, typically 1.5-5 cm long and 0.3-2.5 cm broad, but up to 11 cm long and 5 cm broad in some species. The flowers are small and yellow-green, monoecious with both sexes present on a plant. The fruit is a small capsule 0.5-1.5 cm long (to 3 cm in B. macrocarpa), containing several small seeds.
Box is a slow-growing and very low maintenance wintergreen shrub which is ideal for Evergreen Gardening. Box is most suitable to a clipped hedge or for shaping, and can easily be put around flower beds such as roses. It can be used as a wintergreen shrub potted in containers. In summer it can be planted alongside white annuals for example or in winter alongside cyclamen. Box needs very little attention and is very easy to grow.
Because of its long life cycle, Box Shrubs are often used in Ornamental Gardens where the plant can be shaped and trained in amazing ways and they grow in most soil conditions. The plant tends to do better in shaded areas but needs support in Winter months when cold winds can turn the leaves to a bronze colour. Best to grow Box where exposure to wind is not a problem.
Similarly in Summer, the shallow rooted plant will need protection from the Sun. Some bark mulch will do the trick here.
If planting a box hedge ensure the plants are well watered until they become established. They do require well drained soil but can be allowed to dry out a bit between watering. Usually, a trimming once a year is sufficient to keep the hedge looking neat and crisp but sometimes a second pruning is necessary.
If you are looking to start evergreen gardening, then this would be my recommendation for the first step

What is an effective all natural weed and grass killer?

2010-01-27T18:19:00.001Z

I was asked this week if i could recommend an effective all natural weed and grass killer. Hope these tips will help

Salt

Salt. Pour Morton table salt between cracks in sidewalks where weeds and grass come up. Pour enough so that it is mounded up an inch or so above the sidewalk. You will be amazed!

Vinegar-the wonderful weed killer...
Vinegar. Or salt, but you can control your application better if you use vinegar (unless you want to go through the trouble of mixing salt with water in a high concentration).

Vinegar is great for many things and when it comes to weeds, it really works, even on Ironweed, a tough cookie. If you need to apply it to a weed or plant that's in the middle of other plants that you don't wish to get a dose, then cut the top off of the weed or plant and dip it in the vinegar. This might take more than onego, so just pour or spray it over the area that needs treatment, and a couple of days later your weeds are dying or already dead.

A Weed Killer formulation I've used for interlocked brickwork is to mix 1 gallon white vinegar, 1 cup table salt, and 1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid. I use 5% household vinegar with great success (my interlock has lots of very young, unestablished weeds). I'm told a 15%-20% strength is better, but I can't seem to find it at a reasonable cost.

Other Ways
To my way of thinking, salt [sodium chloride] and vinegar [dilute acetic acid] are both chemicals! For a truly non-chemical method of spot killing any unwanted weeds or grasses is boiling water, or steam from one of those hand-held generators sold for cleaning. Using this technique, I have encountered only two problems.

First, if the amount and/or area of unwanted vegetation is large, it requires a lot of boiling and hauling of water. And second, if unwanted vegetation is in very close proximity to desirable plants, then great care is necessary to prevent contact of the boiling water or steam with the foliage or root system of those desirable plants which you do not want to harm.

Another method for killing relatively large areas, such as for preparing for flower beds or garden plots, is to scalp mow the grass or weeds, then water well, and cover with a sheet of plastic. Stretch it as smoothly and tightly in contact with the mowed vegetation as possible, and weight it down well, especially around the edges to keep the water vapor contained.

The sun will generate heat, which will be concentrated in the vegetation and soil; and water vapor, which will develop over a relatively short time, will kill the vegetation. I think this method is called solarization.

Another natural method is, after scalp mowing, to simply bury the area which you want to clear of weeds with a 6-12 inch layer of any mulching material. This will kill everything, except the millions of seeds which exist in almost every cubic foot of ordinary soil.

IN ADDITION
i would not advise using the boiling water method however. It can wipe out all the bacteria in the soil as well and make it sterile for at least a year - so be warned

How to Grow Broccoli and Calabrese!

2010-01-07T08:26:00.003Z

"I do not like broccoli. And I haven't liked it since I was a little kid
and my mother made me eat it. And I'm President of the United
States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli."
- George Bush, U.S. President, 1990

Well, following on from yesterday, i can tell you that my second most viewed Article ever is the one reproduced below. This was written in November 2006 and has been viewed 6481 Times according to my Publisher. Hope you enjoy it!

Growing Broccoli & Calabrese

The name 'Broccoli' comes from the Italian word 'Brocco' which means branch or arm. Broccoli is the flowering head of the plant; if you leave Broccoli after cutting too long you will see the green buds turn into yellow flowers it will taste considerably better if you eat it before it does this.

Broccoli is one of the healthiest foods you can eat, it contains a high percentage of vitamin C, one portion is equal to the recommended daily allowance of this essential vitamin, and it also contains vitamin A and folacin. The florets are richer in vitamins than the stalk. It also contains phylochemicals such as sulforaphane that are believed to protect against cancer. It is a delight for weight watchers as it contains only 28 calories per serving.

There are two types of Broccoli - curdling and sprouting. Whilst the curdling types produce white heads that are similar in appearance to cauliflower. The sprouting types, have numerous side shoots with tiny heads, these are purple. Calabrese is often called 'green sprouting' it is less hardy, with a delicate asparagus-like taste. When cooked, broccoli should still be slightly crunchy, this way it will still retain the vitamins, over cooking also ruins the texture of this delicious vegetable.

Soil Preparation
Broccoli will grow in almost any soil type that has been well manured. They do best in firm ground and benefit if planted in ground that has been vacated by such crops as potatoes, broad beans or early peas. If they are to follow any of those crops, the soil need only to be forked over and a dressing of fish manure with 10 per cent potash content at 4 oz. (120g) to the sq. yd. can be added, then the ground can be firmed down and made level. Unless the soil is already chalky, dress with carbonate of lime at 4 oz. (120g) to the sq. yd. It is important to remember that if a top dressing of lime is given, not to give nitrogen late in the season, as this will encourage soft growth and the plants will not be hardy.

Sowing

Autumn varieties are sown in mid April but slightly later in the south. Sow winter varieties later, the spring ones can be sown a week or so after that. For very late broccoli the end of May should be fine. The time to sow is determined by the variety and the guidelines can be found on the seed packet. Narrow seedbeds are fine; they need not be wider than 3 ft. (90cm) Make drills about 6 in. apart and ½ in. (12mm) deep. The seed should be sown thinly, and then the soil is raked over the drill to cover the seeds and firmed over.

Planting

In the south seedlings can be planted out in June, in other areas it may be July when main crops are planted out. The rows should be 2-½ ft. (75cm) apart with about 2 ft. (60cm) between each plant. Plant them firmly, up to their lower leaves is best. Make sure that they are well watered if the weather is dry.

General Care

Using a draw hoe take out a furrow between the rows at the end of August or early September. This action will earth up the soil around the roots, which will help them from becoming waterlogged.
Growing plants at an angle can protect them from damage that can be done by early morning sun following a frost. It is a simple manoeuvre, which involves removing the soil to a depth of 9 in. (228mm) on the north side of each broccoli plant and pushes it over carefully with the head towards the north. During a hard winter, in February, give the plants a feed of nitrate of potash at 1 oz. (30g) to the sq. yd.

Harvesting

Cut the white curds as soon as they are ready and this is before they start to open up.

Sprouting Broccoli

The plants are hardy and the heads if harvested before they are open are a very good flavour.

Soil Preparation

As for curding broccoli.

Sowing

These are sown in April or early May in a seedbed similar to that for curding broccoli.
Planting
The plants require plenty of room for development, putting out the early varieties 2 ft. by 2 ft. (60cm) and the late 2-½ ft. by 2-½ ft. (75cm). Plant firmly and water well.

General Care

Lightly hoe the soil during summer but do not heel the plants over as for curding broccoli.
Harvesting
The flowering shoots grow out from the axils. When the shoots are about 12 in.(30cm) long, cut them to within 2 in. (50mm) of their base; this generally results in more shoots produced later.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

How to Grow Courgettes!

2010-01-06T16:47:00.001Z

You know it's a funny old world. I got a notification from my Publishers Ezine Articles.com this morning giving me statistics on my top 3 viewed Aricles of all time and guess what - this really blew me away - top of the heap was an Article I wrote some years ago on "How to Grow Courgettes" - of all things!!! I had forgotten all about this one but it seems popular as 8590 people have viewed it.

So for old times sake and just for you here it is again in all its glory!

How to Grow Courgettes!

Courgettes are a firm fleshy vegetable, which has grown in popularity over the years. It is in the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes marrows, squashes and pumpkins. Courgettes are an easy crop to grow; children are fascinated with their flowers and excited by the crops rapid growth. Plants like these kindle interest in gardening at an early age which gives hope for the future, for once the passion for growing plants and good quality home grown foods has been kindled, it generally continues throughout a person's life.

Courgettes are best eaten soon after harvesting them when they are fresh and at the peak of their flavour. In cooking, courgettes can be boiled, steamed, baked, fried, grilled and roasted. They have a delicate flavour so can be cooked with herbs to add variety.

Soil Preparation

Courgettes prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow. Begin by digging a trench 4 in. (101mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; the courgettes can be planted into the ridges, 3 ft. (90cm) apart.

Sowing Under Cover

Sow the seed mid March through to late May putting two seeds into the pot ½ in. (12mm) deep, at a temperature of 65 to 70 deg F. (18 to 21 deg C.) the weaker one can be removed if they both germinate. Harden off the young plants by putting the first sowing into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.

Sowing Direct

Sowing direst into the ground where they are to grow sowing two seeds per station, this can be done in mid May until early June at about 3 ft. (90cm) apart. When the seeds have germinated they can be thinned out removing the less vigorous seedling.

Planting

Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut into half, the bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck of the bottle onto the plants. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck, I secure a small piece of fleece with an elastic band.

General care

Courgettes require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can be used as mulch. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one, however slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side, position a few slug traps around the base of the plants. Cold conditions could restrict the activity of pollinating insects and so the fruits may fail to set. Should this happen it may be necessary to assist with pollination by removing a male flower and gently brush it against the female flowers, which can be distinguished from those of the male, by the slight swelling behind the flower.

Harvesting

In a good summer, courgettes can often be cut in August; keep cutting them when they are about 4 to 6 in. (101mm-15cm) long, do not be tempted to leave them longer because the flavour will not be quite as good. The plants will continue cropping until well into September. Use a sharp knife to cut the fruits from the plants, twisting or pulling will often damage the stem and possibly the whole plant.

Varieties to Try:

'Ambassador': Good flavour with a high yield.

'Defender': Has good resistance to cucumber mosaic virus, heavy cropper.

'Gold Rush': Yellow skinned variety.

'Tondo di Nizza': Spherical fruits

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance.

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source:http://www.EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

How to Care for your Bonsai Ficus Ginseng Plant!

2010-01-05T17:12:00.005Z

How to Care For Your Bonsai Ficus Ginseng Plant

The Bonsai Ficus Ginseng Plant is also known as Taiwan Ficus or Banyan Fig.

One of the attractions of this particular bonsai ficus ginseng is of course the roots which are usually exposed. Along with a thickish trunk and a canopy of dark green leaves it is a most attractive plant, creates a wonderful display in the home and is so easy to look after. This makes it ideal for newcomers to indoor plant keeping especially as it is very low maintenance.

Caring For The Bonsai Ficus Ginseng

Although the bonsai ficus ginseng can tolerate low light environments well, it does thrive much better in well lit environments and natural sunlight. So it is important to site the plant beside a window which receives lots of light for as much of the day as possible. I turn my own Ficus Ginseng by one quarter turn to the right each day so the whole ginseng plant has its fair share of the sun.

This bonsai tree does need a little tender loving care. It does need moderate watering in the winter, and I have had good results by feeding the potted soil with tomato plant liquid feed of all things. (Don't overdo this) Obviously, a little more water will be needed during the warmer summer season and less during the winter season.

The bonsai ficus ginseng does not mind being overwatered once in a while nor does it take offence when you forget to water it sometimes. It will however thrive more when misted regularly to mimic its rainforest home conditions. I do this daily using an old aerosol spray, and where possible I use rainwater rather than tap water which tends to contain Fluoride in this Country and I'm not sure this is good for the plant. Boiling tap water first may be another solution.

The bonsai ficus ginseng is basically a slow grower although this will depend on the condition of the plant and obviously on its environment. Repotting the bonsai plant depends on growth, so you may have to do this annually or bi-annually. I have had my ficus ginseng for about 6 months and growth is slow, so there is plenty of time to think about re-potting at a future time.

As for the soil, the plant does not seem too fussed and I have just used the soil which was in the pot when I bought the ginseng plant. Fertilizers may be added but the bonsai ficus ginseng is a good grower and can survive in lean conditions. (Try the tomato liquid fertilizer trick mentioned earlier)

The bonsai ficus ginseng tree is an easy tree to care for and you will not need to constantly monitor its state. At first you may be worried at the alarming habit the Ficus has of dropping its leaves daily. Look closely however at the plant and you will see that for all the dark green leaves which have been discarded, there will be a roughly equal number of light green new growth leaves to replace them.

The leaves of the bonsai ficus ginseng will need to be pinched when there are more than necessary to make a good looking crown. For every six new leaves that come out, you need to pinch off at least two or three to maintain its beauty and symmetry.

Overall the bonsai ficus ginseng is a hardy tree that is great for novices and beginners!

how to Create Healthy Organic Soil!

2010-01-03T12:01:00.011Z

I came across this great Article from Whitney Segura, a writing colleague of mine at ezine articles. I highly recommend this to all gardeners.

How to Build Healthy Organic Soil

By ezinearticles.com expert Whitney Segura
Organic Soil Gardening How To Guide:

Those new to organic gardening sometimes think that growing one's own vegetables is all that is needed to be an organic gardener. But unless those vegetables are grown in healthy soil, the results may be less than ideal. Not only that, but some soil may contain unhealthy levels of lead or be on property which had contaminants. So it is important to be sure to start with good to excellent soil.

It is really not hard to make sure that soil meets the requirements.
First, consider the land. If it is in your backyard, think about the history of your home and land. Did you buy an older home which may have contained lead? Was reconstruction or remodeling done after purchase? If so, consider having your soil tested. This can be done professionally or with the help of home soil tests. Of course, you'll want to take steps to remove lead from soil.If lead exists in the soil, you may need to grow herbs and vegetables in containers located in an area of the yard that doesn't have high lead levels.

Another option?
A community garden. These allow gardeners to have individual plots or take home a portion of all vegetables grown, depending on the policies. They also help gardeners to network with others, make friends and have fun while participating in growing organic vegetables in the community. How do you make sure your soil is rich in nutrients and likely to promote healthy vegetables?

First, consider the types of herbs and vegetables you want to grow.

Some are very heavy feeders while others are not. Make sure you know not only your growing zone but what type of soil exists where you want to put your plants. Even in areas of the country where the soil tends to be very healthy, there can be patches of clay, sandy or other soil.
The nutrient content of the soil can also vary widely, with some areas of the same yard having rich, woodland soil while other areas have very little soil and many rocks (difficult to plow). There are testing kits to determine soil content, either done professionally or with home testing. Of course, you can "test" an area by seeing which plants do well but it is better to start with some knowledge of the soil itself.Start with a visual test.

Also, don't be afraid to start feeling the soil.
As odd as this may seem, good soil will have a certain feel. If there are plenty of earthworms, that is an excellent sign. Dark, loose soil and plenty of earthworms can be a sign of healthy, organic soil (assuming you've already tested for harmful substances). Adding compost to your soil will help add the nutrition. Of course, you'll want to avoid pesticides and substances that are high in dangerous chemicals. You are aiming for soil that is very loose and porous.Next, make sure you know the PH level in your soil.

Depending on test results, you'll want to make sure your soil is neither too acid or alkaline.
With luck, the PH will be ideal. Now it is time to move on to digging through the dirt. Is the soil compacted, with little space for plants to get air and water. If so, you may need to use a tiller or other equipment to break up the soil. The final step is to consider adding amendments, or extra fertilizers or nutrients to the soil. Garden centers often carry the specific types needed for certain areas but be sure to use organically friendly products. These beginning steps will help to build organic soil. Using rain barrels to collect water for the garden can also help to keep chemicals from the soil (depending on the chemical levels in drinking water).

Whitney Segura is the owner of http://www.bestgardengifts.com/ - Best Garden Gifts is a company that sells home hydroponics equipment,compost bins,greenhouses,plant containers and other green products.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Build-Healthy-Organic-Soil&id=3469103 How to Build Healthy Organic Soil

Lawn Care For January

2009-12-28T11:52:00.002Z

Ok - the hangover is a receding memory - Christmas is over for another year.

Its a freezing January out there in England, but that is helping out old Mother Nature enormously by breaking up the ground in anticipation of the Spring - it's also killing off those weeds that won't have a chance to flourish as they do in mild Winter conditions. So what is the first thing to do as we contemplate the frozen earth out there?

Here is a List of the jobs to focus on during this month of January

Lawns

After the New Year, your life will return to normal. The holiday season is officially over and you will be anticipating the arrival of spring. Your lawn may not look like much. If you live in a region that sees a lot of snow, you may have been looking at a white blanket for weeks. Your grass may appear lifeless and your plants have long since bloomed in the sunshine.

But there is work to be done. You will have to go outside at least once a week and walk through your property and check for problems that you will have to take care of once the warmer months have arrived.

In January, you should be concerned with damage to your lawn sculptures and other decorative items. When inspecting these items, you should:

Check for cracks in the foundation of concrete bird baths, sculptures, and statues
Look for signs of discoloration that could be the early signs of rust.
Check for water and snow damage
Check for broken pieces
Remove any decorative items that cannot be fixed
If possible, you should wrap up these items in order to protect them from the snow and water. If you can move them to a safer place, that would also help. Lawn decorations can be expensive and in many cases, one of a kind. Protecting these items should be high on your list when getting ready for winter and also during the winter season.

Lawn Care Dandelions!

2009-12-03T14:01:00.001Z

Some people like the sight of yellow dandelion flowers in their lawn. Others may even appreciate their skyward-stretching puffballs. But if you're not one of those people, we can suggest some natural and organic methods for controlling dandelions.

Pulling dandelions by hand is not that easy, but it can be done. You need to get the whole tap root out—if you don't, the piece you've left in the ground will sprout new foliage and, eventually, yellow dandelion flowers and white puffballs.

For little dandelion weeds, pulling the tap root out is not too hard if you're careful. For larger dandelion specimens, it can be nearly impossible. A special "dandelion digger" tool can help, as can attempting your weed-pulling operation after it's rained, when the ground it still a little loose.

Dandelions grow in one of two ways; from a dandelion seed that germinates, or from a still-viable piece of dandelion tap root that's under the surface. If you can interrupt the seed production cycle AND starve the tap roots of nutrients, you can defeat your lawn's dandelions without having to buy any chemicals or other products. Here's how to approach this:

1. Pick off the Heads — As soon as you see a dandelion plant's yellow flowers, pick the heads off. That will prevent them from getting to the puffball stage, when they release the seeds for the next generation of your lawn's worst nightmare.

2. Pick off the Leaves — Picking the leaves off a dandelion will not kill it because the tap root remains below the surface and will quickly send up new leaves. But repeatedly picking off the leaves will eventually starve the tap root of nutrients and kill the weed.

3. Corn gluten meal—which, just like it sounds, is naturally derived from corn. It acts by suppressing the germination process of a variety of weed seeds, including crabgrass and dandelion.

A multi-year program of applying corn gluten meal every spring will eventually give you a dandelion - free lawn. Remember that corn gluten meal will suppress germination of grass seeds as well, so time your applications away from reseedings.

The only other downside of corn gluten meal is that it will also kill the beneficial, nitrogen-fixing clover in your lawn, but we recognize that from some people's perspectives, that's a good thing.

Corn gluten meal also benefits your grass by adding nitrogen to the soil.

If you like spending money on mechanical gadgets to help you with your gardening, you'll find a variety of appliances such as flame weeders, mechanical pullers, water-powered weeders, and heat zappers, all designed to kill your dandelions off. These do work but are expensive.

Remember - the war against dandelions is a constant battle! Relax at your peril!

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com/. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance.

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn