Third Age Traveler

EUROPE MEETS CARIBBEAN FRESHNESS AT CHALET SUISSE

2013-06-17T17:10:00.000-04:00

Chalet Suisse
Eagle Beach, Aruba

If you ask your friends for restaurant recommendations on Aruba, almost without fail you’ll hear the name Chalet Suisse. We heard it at home, and we heard it from people at our hotel. Chalet Suisse became a “must do” on the list. After our evening there, we joined the chorus. Our dinner at Chalet Suisse was one of the highlights of our evenings.

If you check the reviews of Chalet Suisse, you must note that people return year after year. That idea is important on two counts. People who come to Aruba for the first time decide that this happy island is perfect for a return trip. Many return trips. For some of these yearly visitors are perpetual diners at Chalet Suisse. That says a lot to me.

On one of Rob’s walks along the beach toward the low rise hotels at Eagle Beach, he passed Chalet Suisse. Doesn’t it look inviting? Yes; perhaps it seems out of place on a Caribbean island, but that is part of its particular allure. Part of the romantic image. The chefs are European trained, and the meat and fish, except for the locally caught fish, are flown in from the east coast of the United States. Everything we tried was fresh, presented artfully, and made the evening an absolute joy.

We began with drinks and Escargot “Bourguignnone” prepared with garlic butter, shallots, herbs and just a touch of cognac. The escargot was tender, and the butter sauce begged to be soaked up by bits of delicious breads.

We moved on to our entrées.

Here I was in a Swiss chalet, so I chose the Zuricher Geschnetzeltes. If you can’t pronounce it, don’t worry. But you might like to try this superb dish. It is billed as a “typical Swiss dish made with slices of veal tenderloin in a fresh mushroom and Riesling sauce and served with homemade spaetzl.” I loved it. The sauce was tasty and the veal wonderfully tender. I could not have asked for anything more.

This photo of Rack of Lamb is courtesy of TripAdvisor but it could have been Rob's rare lamb.

Chalet Suisse’s most recommended dish—at least from everyone we spoke to—is the Whole Roast Rack of Lamb delicately herb crusted and served with stuffed baked tomatoes. That was Rob’s choice. The artist in the chef emerged with this presentation of tiny, tender chops made purpley rare just as Rob asked. They formed a circular pattern on his plate. In the middle was a serving of piped mashed potatoes crisped along the edges, and an herb sprig rose from the center. The stuffed baked tomatoes added lovely color. I’d say it was almost too pretty to eat, but almost doesn’t count here. Rob delighted in his dinner.

Our shared Banana Boat
Yes, it was a good as it looks

We gazed around the dining room as we ate, and we saw one gorgeous and very tempting dessert after another pass by our table. Too tempting to resist. With our coffee, Rob and I shared a Banana Boat for dessert. This classic ice cream dessert of fresh bananas, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate sauce was a perfect final act to a beautiful and very delicious meal.

One thing is certain. We will join the other people who return to Chalet Suisse each time they come to Aruba.

Chalet Suisse is just a short taxi ride from either the high rise hotels or Oranjestad, so make sure you put this on your must-do-dinner-here list!

CICADAS--LIKE A 17-YEAR ITCH!

2013-06-14T13:03:00.000-04:00

This is a 17-year cylce CICADA we'll come familiar with this year.
When you hear their thrumming, you will be amazed at the volume.
We were up in Ulster County last week and this fellow and his friends made an incredible amount of noise.
They actually increase in volume as the day passes.
They're virtually harmless, and you won't see them again for another 17 years.

NEW YORK: THE NOVEL----A TOUGH BOOK TO PUT DOWN

2013-06-07T15:11:00.001-04:00

Take a trip to old New York and travel with it through time in Edward Rutherfurd’s New York: The Novel. This panoramic view of my favorite city traces the lives of several families arriving as immigrants during different eras of the city’s history and coupling their own strengths with the invisible vibrancy of New York as they search for what each considers a success.

New York: The Novel begins in New Amsterdam in 1664 with the single line paragraph “So this is freedom.”

Freedom is the primary theme of the book. The desire for freedom brought most immigrants, and once they tasted freedom’s deliciousness they drank deeply. They worked hard to profit from it and to build something for themselves and their families. That universal desire is as real in the 21^st century’s characters as it is the 17^th century’s characters.

The last single line paragraph is “Imagine. Freedom. Always.”

This is New York come full circle.

Painted on New York’s historical canvas are events that depict the bad as well as the good and the corrupt as well as the noble. From the battles of the Revolutionary War to the attack on the World Trade Center, New York has been the scene of momentous events. George Washington was sworn in as President here in New York City. But there were times that disease came as regularly as summer weather and water was difficult to obtain to wash away the filth and the stench. Interesting to me is Rutherfurd’s juxtaposition of “old money” and “new money,” and how that sociological development influenced the growth and movement of neighborhoods. The distinction is actually a relatively recent one but definitely part of the New York psyche. To me, everything about this city is interesting. Cole Porter said it right: "I Happen to Like New York."

While it’s obvious that the author loves New York, he does not sugarcoat it. His vivid descriptions of the New York Civil War draft riots probably surprise many readers by the violence, the class-consciousness, and the human cost of the war. Filth, corruption, and greed are not bystanders to the story; they are part of it.

If you are a New Yorker—and particularly a native New Yorker—than you must be a lover of the city (how’s that for an assumption?) who enjoys recognizing the landmarks as well as the out-of-the-way places that you’ve enjoyed. When Rutherfurd mentioned Jackson Hole, a restaurant on the East Side, a smile crossed my face as I recalled scrumptious burgers. Unfortunately, I passed there last Sunday and the doors were shuttered. Another chapter closed.

Rutherfurd is not without a sense of humor either, and you might chuckle at some of the names especially when you come across two intriguing characters named Vorpal and Bandersnatch. You’ll have to peek at Lewis Carroll’s poem “Jabberwocky” for that one! Most of the names, however, he has researched and do represent places of origin.

The families traced through the generations, the neighborhoods and their changes, the landmarks and their origins, and the movement and development of the city are all covered. You’ll get involved in the individual lives of his fictional characters, but along the way you will probably learn a lot about New York City. Since Rutherfurd takes us right through to 2008 (the book was published in 2009), you will be part of the story too.

So many of the places Rutherfurd mentions still exist, so it could be fun to visit some of them today.

Other books, of course, have dealt with New York City’s history. If you like this one, please consider Pete Hamill’s Forever. It will blow you away.

New York City’s history is BIG, and so are the books about it. My Kindle made New York: The Novel “light,” and you might consider the ebook if you are taking this traveling. But it is a good read, and you will enjoy it.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-05-31T15:19:00.000-04:00

I love my sunflowers! Ours are planted and I cannot wait for them to bloom.
Is it that they have become symbols of happiness?
Is it because my daughter and I walked through fields of them in Nova Scotia?
Is it the mesmerizing pattern of the Fibonacci sequence?
http://www.popmath.org.uk/rpamaths/rpampages/sunflower.html

GETTYSBURG BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL--A FEAST FOR THE EARS!!!

2013-05-25T12:46:00.000-04:00

66th Gettysburg Bluegrass Festival

The grass isn’t always greener; twice a year, in May and again in August, the grass in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania’s Granite Hill Camping Resort is definitely BLUE. That’s when the Gettysburg Bluegrass Festival is there, a four day musical feast for anyone who loves Bluegrass music. This is the fourth time we’ve gone, and it’s always quite a thrill. This is the 66^th festival at this site! Not 66 years because the festival occurs twice a year, but still, 33 years is pretty darned impressive. Here’s my post from 2011 when we went in August. http://thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2011/09/gettysburg-bluegrass-festival-there-was.html

Rhonda Vincent took this Panorama photo of the crowd when she played. It is on her FB page.
It was taken on a Smartphone.
She gave permission to share.

I came to bluegrass late—really only over the last few years, but Rob is a long-time fan of some of the greatest bluegrass artists. But I love live music and music festivals, so the thought of heading for a weekend in Gettysburg was enticing! Little did I know that I’d fall in love with this great music. It’s not the singing; it’s the incredible talent of these musicians.

Gettysburg is about as far north as the circuit comes although last year we saw Rhonda Vincent in Gettysburg the night before she was scheduled to be solo up in Bethel Woods, a venue up in the Catskill Mountains of New York, so perhaps for those at the top of bluegrass, there is a worthwhile audience in the North.

Rhonda Vincent, from a bluegrass family, playing a great mandolin

Bluegrass means constant touring for the performers, and Rhonda Vincent was heading home to Missouri after being on the road for 45 days. Not an easy life. You can check her out on Facebook. She took the panorama photo of the crowd (much smaller than usual because it was drizzling and 57°--kinda nasty) that I posted above. You can view it on her FB page to see how the crowd from the stage perspective.

This is such a great festival. Half days on Thursday and Sunday and full days on Friday and Saturday. Rob and I go for Friday and Saturday, leaving our house at around 7:30 AM to get to Gettysburg by 11:00 AM when the first act begins on time.

Here's my favorite combination courtesy of Rhonda Vincent's band.
There's the fiddle, the banjo, the mandolin
the bass, the dobro, and the guitar.
Sweet, sweet music!

The sound I love best comes from this combination of instruments: banjo, mandolin, dobro, bass, violin and guitar. For added richness, throw in a second fiddle. No amplification of instruments, just a mic to carry the sounds out to the people.

Speaking of sound systems, the one at Gettysburg gets raves from the performers.

One performer told the story of being at a venue in Philadelphia—big place, huge, expensive sound system, but it was badly managed by inept technicians. When his group couldn’t get the sound right, he told them to give them one mic and they’d do just fine. And they did. Real musicians do not need the technical doodads to make music!

What happens at Gettysburg once that music gets started is set after set with no more than five or six minutes between for setup. Sets run about 45 minutes apiece with 12-15 songs. First act goes on at 11 AM; last act Friday began at 11:15 PM, Saturday 11:20. The only break is from 5:00-6:00 for dinner. Each act does a set by day and a set by night. Talk about constant music!

Just an impromptu dinner time jam session. Lovely!

BUT THAT’S NOT ALL. These same musicians run workshops throughout the day on everything from “Celebrating Appalachian Roots” to playing individual instruments—mandolin, dobro, for instance—to songwriting. Additionally, they have Jam sessions, sometimes members of different bands and sometimes with the public. There are lots of folk walking around with their instruments, and during the dinner hour, we got to listen to impromptu jam sessions.

BUT THAT’S NOT ALL.

There are venders of quality instruments as well as of souvenirs (our beer cozies are Gettysburg Bluegrass Festival, and yes, we have t-shirts), and there are plenty of food venders as well. Each performing group sells its cds and dvds, and it is all big and friendly.

Kids were in the pool (it was very hot on Sat.), but no running and yelling.

Got kids? They have activities for them too, including musical ones. The kids are so well behaved even though the swimming pool is right next to the stage. Frankly, you’d think you’re on another planet because everyone is polite, neat, and friendly. But don’t kid yourself. Long beards, logo emblazed shirts, tie-dyed tees, overalls, skimpy shorts all are here—harmoniously in every sense of the word. This is a Peace Place with great music. Read my 2011 post for some more info, but know Rob and I will be back, and I’ll probably write about this festival again.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-05-23T22:43:00.000-04:00

This is the rear wall on the U.S.S. Arizona, sunk by the Japanese in their attack on Pearl Harbor
December 7, 1941
Memorial Day is for the men still entombed on this sunken ship and for all the
other men and women who have died to keep us free
God Bless Them
Never forget them

Standing on the Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, I can see parts of this sunken ship
and I am tremendously and tearfully moved by the thought of the men
entombed therein.
God Bless Them
Remember them and others who gave their lives for their country--and us--to keep us free.

ARUBA'S AMUSE BISTRO--A STUDY IN EXCELLENCE

2013-05-15T16:19:00.002-04:00

It was serendipitous that we stopped to look at the posted menu at Aruba’s Amuse Bistro just outside the Playa Linda Beach Resort. Although we were actually heading to another restaurant recommended by friends, the menu was so tantalizing that it beckoned us, and we willingly followed. We were not disappointed.

Before I even get into our delicious dinner, let me begin with the strikingly comfortable ambiance the owners created. The peaceful atmosphere was a bit surprising when you consider that Amuse Bistro sits right on Juan E. Iraqusquin Blvd., and people and traffic constantly pass by. The restaurant, however sits just far enough off and at an angle to the sidewalk creating for the diners a feeling of being removed from the busy-ness of the world around them. Pardon the expression, but it’s a delicious feeling.

After a day at the beach, it is nice to spend the evening in a casual yet elegant surrounding and to enjoy the comfortable weariness of a full day. The atmosphere should not be rushed. This is exactly what we discovered at Amuse Bistro.

The lighting made this a very romantic setting

We sat outside under a lighted covering. The temperature, as it is in Aruba, was warm and caressing. The easy jazz that played in the background was so nice and light that we asked the waitress if there were musicians inside. Surprisingly, the music was actually streaming www.jazzradio.com on a good sound system. Volume was low enough to enjoy the music and still be able to have a quiet conversation. That combination is unfortunately rare nowadays, and we welcomed it. Everything contributed to a relaxed yet casually refined mood. How perfect is that after a day at the beach?!

Amuse Bistro serves French-inspired dishes, but there is no attempt to make you wish you were in France. You want to stay right here in Aruba. At Amuse Bistro everything is made from scratch with fresh ingredients. We’re not talking only about main courses. Those from-scratch offerings include the bread, mayonnaise, salad dressings, and, yes, even the ice cream! Dining here, therefore, is unlike any other restaurant, and we sat back and enjoyed the experience.

There’s another nice touch offered at Amuse Bistro. Diners can order anything on the menu as an appetizer or as an entrée thereby allowing a size selection. It’s an excellent concept. We were tempted to order several different appetizer portions so we could taste a wider variety of dishes, but in the end we were won over by the Catch of the Day.

Notice the attributes of each wine. Nice.

But let me not jump ahead. After our cocktails, we ordered wine to have with dinner. Even the way the wine is offered brings a smile. The “bottle” menu listed the suggestions. Not only did we have the name of each wine, but also we had the unique qualities of the wine, so we could sip and allow our taste buds to search out the different flavors to which we had treated them. That’s exactly what we did. It was fun.

We chose the Argentinean Malbec wine, fruity and earthy. It is a cross between a California Cabernet and a California Merlot. We were pleased with that choice.

We began our dinner with escargots in garlic butter and served with toasts. This appetizer is one of our favorites, and it’s something I make at home. Amuse Bistro’s preparation was lovely. Escargots is an appetizer to eat slowly and to savor. We did.

lovely lighting
lovely gazpacho

While we did not order soup, a complimentary tasting in a simple tiny glass bowl of Amuse Bistro’s gazpacho topped with a pine nut was served to us, and that was a pleasant treat. The gazpacho was delicious, but the special touch simply added to our enjoyment of the restaurant.

We did enjoy a wonderfully fresh salad, and then on to our entrées. So much on the menu was tempting that this decision did create conundrums. The Catch of the Day it turned out to be a perfectly tasty decision.

our grouper
absolutely delicious
lovely presentation
lovely dinnerware

The Catch of the Day was pan-fried grouper served on a bed of spinach and accompanied by mashed potatoes and bok choy in a very light cream sauce. The presentation was artful, the taste extraordinary.

Let me digress here to the presentation. The photographs of our meal show the lovely dinnerware, colorful, unmatched yet all complementary to the deep blue linen and to each other. The candlelight reflected the blue in our water glasses. There was also variety in the shapes and sizes of the plates—different yet complementary.

I was especially taken by the plate on which our entrée was served. The colors of our meal—the shades of creamy white of the sauce and potatoes, the variable greens in the bok choy, and the lightly browned fish fitting so well on the dinner plate with its blue fish wrapping around the edge—added to the pampering atmosphere. Who doesn’t like to be pampered?

The dining table became a canvas upon which a picture-perfect meal was presented—not a formal painting, but an elegantly casual picture fitting the restaurant’s setting and the island’s mood.

We did not have dessert though it was tempting. We sipped our coffee and then strolled Juan E. Iraqusquin Blvd. just as tourists do, enjoying the sights, the sounds, and the marvelous Aruban evening.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-05-10T14:22:00.000-04:00

This is not the moon. We were on an Alaskan glacier.
The black backgound are the mountains through which the glacier flows.
Breathtakingly beautiful. Being there is almost a spiritual experience.

EASTERN SHORE TOYOTA--JUST SHORT OF AN AMUSEMENT PARK!

2013-05-07T07:30:00.000-04:00

Here’s an unusual article for a travel blog. It’s about Eastern Shore Toyota in Daphne, Alabama where we ended up by chance (and a big billboard) when two warning lights flashed on after driving through some powerful, pounding rain. Unless you are already a customer, you probably will not believe what I have to tell you! Just imagine…

It’s Saturday. We are more than one thousand miles from home in a part of the country with which we are unfamiliar. We have more than a day’s driving to our next destination in Louisiana. The rain pounds our car making visibility poor, but we are afraid to stop in fear of being rear-ended by another driver and his inability to see. Two red warning lights come on simultaneously, and we know we have to react.

We stop along the highway to call the dealership whose billboard we have just passed. Bring the car in, we’re told, and they’ll take a look. The dealership is 30 seconds off the highway at the next exit, and it is the largest Toyota facility we’ve ever seen spread over what seems to be acres of cars and a huge building. The rain is over.

The service bay appears just like the one near our home—until we pull our car up to the waiting service representative, give our name, and then walk to the service desk. There we are greeted by a huge electronic sign, "Welcome Robert Dembeck." On the wall behind is a big service star honoring our military far from home. Our very attentive service advisor, Nate Hicks, is sympathetic to our plight, explains it will take about two hours to check these warning lights, informs us of the basic charge for the service, and invites us inside all the while explaining to us how we might spend our time. I am thankful we have our Kindles. I think he is joking.

He is not.

The building is unlike anything we’ve ever seen. There’s a big TV lounge—not unusual in dealerships—with comfortable seating and a big flat-screen TV tuned into a sports channel. Not unusual. There’s also a nice computer bar. There's wi-fi. Also not quite unusual.

But if we would like some ice cream, cake, coffee, or lunch, all we need do is head to the café. It’s around the corner from the TV lounge, and there are about eight round café-type tables to set a café mood. There's another TV there, so our viewing will not be interrupted. This cafe service is free for the customers, but the people who work at Eastern Shore Toyota do pay nominal fees. The café is busy the entire time we are there.

The cafe section had its own TV too

As we sit sipping our coffee, a VIP service representative comes over to sit at our table to make sure we know the possibilities to occupy our time and that we are comfortable and happy about the service we receive. She chats a bit, content with our contentment, before moving on.

Lovely piano lounge in the middle of the showroom--
carpeting included!

Rob and I are quite comfortable in the café, but had we wanted to, we could have moved to the piano lounge with its big overstuffed leather sofa and wing chair, its baby grand piano and some modern sculpture and plants. We could have chosen from the magazines lying on the coffee table if we were so inclined.

We did walk around the showroom to look at the latest Toyota models, and we learned that should we wish, we could shoot some pool or play Foosball.

You’d think this car wonderland would be noisy and bustling, but all of this is in a calm and comfortable environment.

Actually, I’ve saved the best for last. There is a manicurist, Ashley Norris, available for women waiting for their cars. At her site a sign informs customers that this is a free service and that tipping is not allowed.

Yes, I have my nails done. Ashley is wonderful and charming. She, Rob, and I have a great conversation all the while. Her husband is a National Guardsman who served in Afghanistan, so we immediately have a connection as we are headed to Ft. Polk to visit our son. She is friendly, and it is a pleasure talking to her. We talk about everyday life in New York and Alabama. It is a great experience for us.

We learn about some of the differences in car buying between New York and Alabama. Unlike New York, in Alabama a buyer can drive the car home the same day. Sometimes Eastern Shore Toyota has barbecues on Saturday. They feed the customers, party, and at the end of the day, the lot might be practically empty! As a POP shopper, I'd probably have a driveway full of cars!

a Yankee to boot!

I do have one more “highlight” to add. Here’s a picture of a fixture in the men’s bathroom. Wouldn’t want the guys to miss the game, would you? And, no, I did not take this photo.

When our car is done, we are told that the problem might simply be a glitch caused by the torrential driving rains. If it is not caused by water, the search and repair is very expensive. The technicians could not duplicate the light problem, so they do not want to do a possibly unnecessary repair. They suggest heading to our destination in Louisiana. If the lights come back on, we need to immediately find a Toyota dealer, but if we’re lucky, our rain soaked car’s computers momentarily misread the signs. I add this paragraph because it points out how ethical this dealership is.

I also add that the lights never came back on, and we drove through Alabama to Louisiana for a few days’ visit. Then we drove up through Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee and all the other states between there and New York.

Thank you, Eastern Shore Toyota, for making what could have been a terrible day into something worth writing home about!

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-05-03T09:43:00.000-04:00

Yes, he is real! He posed for me in Everglades National Park in Florida.
Seeing him and so many of his buddies live and in their natural habitat was mindblowing.
If you go to Florida, visit the Everglades through the National Park Service.

DENNIS BOCK'S NOVEL, THE ASH GARDEN -- AS PARADOXICAL AS ITS TITLE

2013-05-02T06:55:00.000-04:00

Fifty years after Emiko Amai loses half her face and almost all of her family when the first atom bomb is dropped on Hiroshima, she is a documentary filmmaker seeking information on the bombing.

In Dennis Bock’s compelling novel, The Ash Garden, Emiko seeks out Anton Boll, a German physicist who worked on the Manhattan Project to develop the bomb and then went to Japan to study the aftermath of its use. She also meets Boll’s Austrian wife, Sophie, who came to Canada as a Jewish refugee and who lost her entire family during the Holocaust. These three characters’ intertwining histories and their individual perspectives produce a powerful look at how human beings may react to the seminal moments of their lives—particularly when those moments happen in a time of war.

Anton Boll is first and foremost a scientist. He leaves his native Germany not for political or moral reasons. Rather his single mindedness and dedication to his science lead him to break with the scientists with whom he works and with whom he disagrees. He seeks his own avenue, and he leaves Germany as well as his mother whose fate, presumably sealed by his defection, he reflects on just once in this novel.

He is, in fact, the last scientist to flee Germany before the borders close, and that is as late as 1940. Science is more than his vocation; it is his lifeblood. The politics are unimportant.

Sophie is Jewish, and after escaping Austria, she eventually finds herself in a refugee camp in Canada, behind wires and with guards to keep the refugees in. The war rages in Europe, but Sophie is a teenager determined to escape from this camp too. Anton, a young and handsome visitor to the camp, sees her, falls in love and rescues her by marrying her. She does love him, and they are blissfully happy.

The war forces their togetherness to be short lived as before long he is called away to Los Alamos to continue his work on the development of the atom bomb. There he remains.

The bomb is successful; the war ends, and Anton visits Hiroshima to study the destruction. He is stunned beyond comprehension.

When he finally reunites with Sophie who has waited patiently in Brooklyn, he finds he cannot communicate his reactions to Hiroshima nor can he fully understand his own reactions to what he experiences and the devastation he sees in Hiroshima. He finds Sophie is also changed, and things cannot be as they once were. She does not reveal the sources of her change either. Much as they want to, they cannot go back to “before the war.”

Over the ensuing years, Sophie’s and Anton’s attempt to cope with their physical and psychological alterations and to find some way to exist happily together is a constant struggle because, in their own ways, they still love each other. Their very different backgrounds, their inability to fully communicate, and their physical problems are minefields they tread carefully.

Emiko’s entrance in their lives appears unexpected, but this novel is full of the unexpected, so be prepared to gasp.

She, of course, wants Anton to admit that the bomb was wrong and that he is repentant for his work. That is not the way he feels, and as their relationship unfolds, we see sides of him heretofore hidden as well as sides of her of which she was not even aware.

This is a book well worth reading. It is well written. It will travel well, and it will give you pause to think.

How you, the reader, react to this pivotal moment in history and to this book is something I would love to discuss. Unfortunately I missed the discussion with my own book club, but if you read The Ash Garden, please use the comment link at the bottom of the post or email me. I’d really like to know, and I’d like to share my own thoughts with you.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-04-26T22:41:00.000-04:00

In the garden of NYC's Cloisters, a part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I caught
this guy doing just what he is supposed to do.
He is covered in pollen.

FASCINATING HISTORY IN ERIK LARSON'S IN THE GARDEN OF BEASTS

2013-04-24T10:07:00.000-04:00

If Erik Larson’s The Devil in the White City captivated you, then grab In the Garden of Beasts, his non-fiction-that-reads-as-fiction account of 1930s Germany as Hitler consolidates his power over the country while the United States’ government parades in blinders unable or unwilling to anticipate the coming storm.

In his research, Larson delves into every historical record of Ambassador William Dodd’s four year tenure in Germany, the first in the Third Reich, fleshing out details that give everyone involved a three-dimensional quality.

A 64 year old University of Chicago history professor, Dodd initially sees the ambassadorship as a sleeper opportunity where he will have the time to finish his own life’s work—a history of the antebellum South. Because Dodd is neither rich nor socially worldly, he is shunned by the elitist corps at the U.S. State Department, a group of wealthy, basically isolationist, and essentially anti-Semitic men. His work in Germany means nothing to them. They don’t like him, and they work against him. They are concerned only with receiving Germany's reparation money and turn a blind eye to everything else.

Dodd’s family accompanies him to Germany, and his daughter, Martha, a carefree, sexually liberated young woman sleeps with everyone from Thomas Wolfe to higher ups in the Nazi party. She twitters like a schoolgirl when Hitler kisses her hand though in private Hitler disparages her and abhors her father.

To save money, Dodd rents an elegant home across from the Tiergarten (literally Garden of Beasts) from a Jewish man whose family has fled the country. The man believes that having an American in residence is a safeguard for him as Jewish persecution escalates. He eventually brings his family back, and they occupy the upper floors. Dodd is so ambivalent that he is annoyed at the man and considers instituting a landlord/tenant dispute.

Martha’s goal to become a journalist induces her to document her own life in detail, providing Erik Larson with a sweeping social view of the decadent and increasingly frightening world Germany became as Hitler and his cohorts consolidated their power and began their persecution not only of Jews but also of anyone who did not demonstrate support for him. Germany mutates into a terrifying world, but Martha remains oblivious.

Martha and her father actually share a basic dislike for the Jews and concur with many of the stereotypes. Hitler ratchets up his persecution, and it is not until well into his ambassadorship that Dodd finally awakens to the reality of the situation. Dodd begins to recognize the horror primarily because Hitler’s henchmen attack Americans who do not give the “sieg heil” salute during parades. As ambassador, Dodd is forced to intervene and deal directly with Hitler. Made aware of Hitler’s persecution and intimidation, Dodd begins to notice more and more aggressive actions that belie Hitler’s talk of peace.

With the course of history behind us, we know that the contemporary United States’ view of the Nazi world as a passing fad of adolescent antics headed by Hitler with his funny mustache, Goering with his enormous girth and outlandish costumes, and Himmler, transitioned from a poultry farmer to the SS commander and main architect of the Holocaust, seems impossible. But that is exactly how this gang was viewed until it was too late to stop them. By then Dodd was exhausted and sick, disliked by the State Department, and not trusted by an unsympathetic President Roosevelt who would do nothing to jeopardize his New Deal.

Erik Larson’s saga is fascinating, heartbreaking, unemotional, and mystifying. It reads like the political thriller that was Germany in the 1930s and demonstrates how quickly and completely a people can be influenced by the combination of a charismatic leader and intimidation by force. It is a real life horror story that should not be missed.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-04-20T07:21:00.001-04:00

Niagara Falls is beautiful in the Spring
This is the Maid of the Mist making her way to Canada's Horseshoe Falls

ARUBAN CUISINE AT QUEEN'S CARIBBEAN TURNS DINERS INTO FOODIES!

2013-04-15T16:46:00.000-04:00

Could our search for Aruban cuisine driven me to drink?
Hardly.

As you can tell from my posts on Aruba, it is not so easy to find purely Aruban anything because the culture is an eclectic fusion of all the cultures that have lived and worked in Aruba beginning with the Arawak tribe from South America. Finding an Aruban restaurant is a task, but after repeatedly asking the concierge, “Where would you go for dinner if you were looking for Aruban food?” we finally had a few choices. The first, and absolutely the best, was Queen's Caribbean.

Why such difficulty in finding Aruban cuisine? Aruba was part of the Netherlands until becoming an independent country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands in 1996, so, of course Dutch influence is felt. Located only 15 miles from Venezuela, Aruba is influenced by South American culture. For a long while, oil refineries were the main industry bringing experts from around the world, and with them came their comfort foods. American influence is a result of the burgeoning tourist industry. That goes back to the mid 20^th century when Aruba was “discovered” by Elizabeth Taylor & friends around the time their playground in Cuba ended with Fidel Castro. The resulting mixture is quite delicious.

Someplace along the way, Queen's Caribbean found a way to offer the Aruban answer to that mix. Queen’s owner is Varella Inocencia, but it is her mother, Luisa who is the chef and Queen who created the restaurant and preserved the Aruban recipes that had been in her family for generations. She learned her craft from her parents who were also Aruban restaurateurs.

The Queen's Restaurant in its new location in Palm Beach Plaza

The original Queen’s Bar and Restaurant was located in downtown Oranjestad where the cruise ships docked. On June 1, 2012, Queens relocated to Palm Beach Plaza within walking distance of all the high-rise hotels. Never fear, foodies. Quality moved with them, and according to locals, the Aruban specialties cooked up in the old location are still on the menu here.

It’s a shame we couldn’t taste everything on the menu, but I will share dishes I highly recommend you try. We had the assistance of our wonderful server, Melissa, who made the recommendations once we explained that we were hoping to sample.

All Rob and I can say is that we enjoyed some astonishing dishes as well as wonderfully personalized service in a sleek, modern environment. Everything you would expect in a fine restaurant you will find at Queen's.

Aruban Pancakes and a wonderful sauce

We began with very, very good Margaritas and Aruban Pancakes. The pancakes were served with a spicy dipping sauce that mingled the tastes of hot peppers with chopped sweet onions in a vinegary brew. Using our pretend Scoville Scale to measure the hotness of the peppers, I would say medium, but Rob would say low. What that might mean is—don’t worry; be happy!

Goat Stew in red wine and herbs---wonderful!

We really diverged in choosing our main courses. Rob selected Cabrito di Cunuku which is stewed goat in red wine and local herbs. To say he was delighted with this native dish is an understatement. He sucked the marrow from the bones explaining that the marrow ”…is like a sponge in the meal that despite its own flavor it sucks in the flavor of the meal. You should try it sometime.”

Rob’s entrée was accompanied by a selection of fresh vegetables, fried plantain, a brown rice and raisin dish, and pan bati, a type of corn bread.

I did sample the goat stew, and it was delicious. The meat has the consistency of lamb, but the flavor is a bit more robust but not gamey. I was very surprised and very pleased with a dish I would not find at home. That’s part of the adventure of traveling.

Rob’s final word on Queen’s Cabrito di Cunuku: “If there’s only one thing to bring me back to Aruba, it would be this.” Praise cannot get much better than that, but here’s a photo of the “remains.” A picture says a thousand words!

Kesha Jena--absolutely the best!

I chose another Aruban dish, Kesha Jena, a baked Dutch Gouda cheese shell stuffed with chicken, raisins, capers and cashews. Yes, I chose something with more familiar ingredients, but the dish was something new and wonderful. It was superb. The melding of flavors and the rich, creamy Gouda cheese added that extra zing that highlighted this experience.

My dish was accompanied by white rice, fresh, steamed vegetables, fried plantain, and funchi (polenta).

We were ready to sit back and relax with a cup of coffee and smile about our meal. The coffee was extraordinary enough for me to ask the brand, and what I learned makes for an interesting tale of success when an opportunity is seized.

The extraordinary coffee was Smit & Dorlas. This company began as two separate Dutch companies formed in the early 19^th century and did not combine until 1980. In 1991, Smit & Dorlas opened an office in Aruba, a country not used to fresh roasted coffee; they used instant. In ten years, in 2001, Smit & Dorlas opened its own building in Oranjestad. The company’s employees are trained in the Netherlands, Belgium, the United States, and Italy. Smit & Dorlas Caribbean n.v. is now an independent company with Smith & Dorlas in the Netherlands as its main supplier.

and it tasted as good as it looks

Our wonderful culinary guide, Melissa, pointed out to us that we really HAD to have the flan for dessert. How easily we capitulated! We shared one dessert. Queen’s’ flan is different from most we’ve had. It is very substantial, not nearly as custardy as most flans. It is closer to cheesecake. It is delicious. As with our other dishes, the flan was attractively presented and really, coupled with Smit & Dorlas coffee, topped off a delicious culinary journey.

Make sure you have Queen's as a restaurant you want to visit. You will have a wonderful evening.

PS I've realized how many times I've used the word "wonderful" in this post. It's not overuse; it's the perfect description for Queen's!

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-04-13T12:36:00.000-04:00

Some Alaskan scenery looks more like a painting than a photograph. Isn't this magnificent?

FRIDAY'S FOTO

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Read my next post and you'll see what this pelican is eying

PALM BEACH SHORE'S SAILFISH MARINA--GREAT FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND SUNSET CELEBRATIONS

2013-04-04T21:50:00.000-04:00

A trolley carries customers around Palm Beach Shore and other hotels

One of the nicest Sunday brunches one can imagine is at the Sailfish Marina in Palm Beach Shores on Singer Island, Florida, a relatively well-kept secret and a lovely respite from the hustle and hubbub of the nearby communities of West Palm Beach and Jupiter just minutes away.

Sailfish Marina is a charming place located diagonally across from Peanut Island. Boats enter through the inlet of the Lake Worth Lagoon separating Palm Beach from Singer Island. The boats docked here are a show in themselves, big and beautiful. Charters are available for fishing, and there is a “taxi” service across to Peanut Island, the artificial island created to serve as JFK’s headquarters and bunker during the Cuban Missile Crisis. With the passing of time, this artificial reef has developed into a delightfully rewarding public park and off-the-beach snorkeling site. Walk right into the water, and before you are knee deep, you can see the fish. Don’t wear jewelry when you snorkel here as there are even barracudas—albeit small ones--who will be drawn to the sparkle.

You get to see some really big fish

The Sailfish Marina boasts a “seawall aquarium.” Walk along the edge of the walkway and see dozens of different kinds of fish of all sizes and colors, and if you care to, you can treat them to a meal. They love to be fed. Bring your own bread or purchase fish food from a machine.

Be on the lookout for pelicans, not that they are difficult to find. They thrive at the Sailfish and perch on the pilings creating beautiful living sculptures. If you catch it right, you will enjoy their unique performance when the fishermen come in and clean their catch at the long sheltered tables. Those pelicans, very familiar with the routine, patiently wait as the fisherman skins and guts and filets his catch, throwing pieces here and there to his hungry, anxious, audience.

The fisherman filets his catch in front of a waiting audience

They are waiting for their share!

They are ready to dive in too

Sunsets at the Sailfish Marina are times for celebrations, and each Thursday evening there is a Sunset Celebration with music and entertainment. Local artisans show their creations, and everyone gets happy! I never leave there empty-handed.

Walking around on a Thursday night for
the Sunset Celebration

The Sailfish Marina’s restaurant is top notch. On Thursday nights you’ll undoubtedly get a flashing beeper as you wait for your table, but you’ll be able to walk the whole length of the marina as you wait for the flashing lights to blink.

Writing about the restaurant brings me back to my original thought—Sunday brunch. While you can order off the menu, the Sunday buffet is well worth the $19.95. We had seats at the window walls. In warmer weather the front window walls open totally to the water.

Let me describe brunch buffet:

We begin with the freshest of fruit: beautifully arranged giant strawberries, sliced watermelon, pineapple, cantaloupe and honeydew melons.

Then we see platters of nicely rolled slices of nova salmon paired with capers, beautiful, ripe, sliced tomatoes (a special treat after what we get up North), and thinly sliced purple onions.

Moving on we see heaps of herring covered in cream sauce loaded with onions.

Covered servers contain mounds of freshly scrambled eggs all light and fluffy, bacon and sausages, waffles, fruit filled crepes, and sausage gravy—with a mound of fresh biscuits on the side (this is, after all, the South).

Cross to another section for bagels, cream cheese, English muffins, toast, and butter. This is also the place for a selection of pastries.

Move a bit further, and order from the omelet station. Anything you can think of that could possibly please your omelet palate is there for the asking.

The coffee is delicious. The service friendly and prompt. There’s no waiting for coffee refills, and as we’ve met my cousins for breakfast and are talking up a storm as we catch up with each other, no one rushes us. This breakfast has become an annual Florida vacation reunion ritual for us, and we spend a long time enjoying the Sailfish Marina’s hospitality.

Rob and I make sure to get to at least on Thursday night Sunset Celebration. We stroll along the seawall aquarium and watch the fish. We feed them too. We walk up and down the docks and wish we could have a boat “like that one.” We buy some things from the artists. We’ll have a wonderful fish dinner too.

If you are anywhere in the Palm Beach County vicinity, put the Sailfish Marina on your hit list. You won’t regret it.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-03-29T11:41:00.000-04:00

the amazing young cliff divers in Acapulco

STROLLING ARUBA'S BEACHWALK--AN EYE-OPENER

2013-03-27T07:58:00.000-04:00

We love Aruba. It IS the “Happy Island” it calls itself, and from what I understand, today’s Aruba does not resemble the tourism in Aruba of even a few years ago. Certainly since celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor began coming here once Cuba fell to Castro, Aruba has worked very hard at building and promoting its image. The growth is phenomenal, and it is still evolving. You’ve got plenty of choices, so think about what you are looking for when you’re planning your vacation.

The Riu

Aruba is basically divided into two hotel zones, the high rise and the low rise, descriptive nomenclature based solely on the height of the buildings. In the high rise section at Palm Beach are the big hotels: Westin, Rui (all inclusive), Marriott, Hyatt Regency, Radisson, Holiday Inn and some others that front on the beach. Here you’ll also find restaurants, casinos, and plenty of places—many familiar—to shop. It’s tourist oriented, touristy, and geared to offer the high life in entertainment and in action.

Looking toward the low rise section of hotels

In the low rise section, the hotels and beachfront villas are one and two stories high. The area is more low-key, and generally there are far fewer people on the beaches. The three Divi all-inclusive resorts are in this area.

There is a third section of smaller hotels at Eagle Beach. Here you’re somewhere between the flashy high rise and the isolated self-contained low rise. Eagle Beach hotels are generally located across the street from the beach. There are nice restaurants within strolling distance, and there are places if you are interested in jet skis, banana boats and other water sports.

It all depends on what you’re looking for in your vacation. All sections are just a short cab ride from Oranjestad, so you never have a feeling of isolation.

No matter your choice, all the beaches are invitingly tantalizing. In Aruba, you do not have to worry.

A Divi Divi that is not pruned

One very special feature of the high rise section is the beachwalk. Stretching the entire length is a meandering, paved walkway, and as our hotel, Divi Phoenix, is on the edge of the high rise district, we were at one end. The beachwalk stretches from our hotel all the way to the Holiday Inn at the other end.

While the paved beachwalk ends at the Divi Phoenix’s border, it continues as a sandy path toward Eagle Beach, and Rob walked this area too. There in its solitude, he saw beaches as nature intended, lined with waving grasses and other plants. He enjoyed the quiet naturalness along the Caribbean.

The path cut through the foliage to other beaches

Here was a more quiet atmosphere

a bit as I imagine Paradise

The paved beachwalk, on the other hand, cuts a winding path between the beach and the high rise hotels, and it is a favorite of joggers, walkers, and people with strollers. It is far more populated than Rob’s sandy route.

pruned Divi Divi

On our walks we pass iconic Divi Divi trees, some pruned neatly and some reaching their branches outward in beautiful disarray. Divi Divi trees are easily spotted, and they provide a wonderful service by spreading their foliage out to bring shade beneath the tropical sun.

The beachwalk is also great for people viewing. Tourists in all their shapes and sizes are fun and interesting to watch. Everyone has colorful, tropical attire. Some people are covered to their ankles in flowing fabrics of pastel hues, and some stroll in the skimpiest, tiniest snippets of cloth. It’s a parade of fashion and beach gear.

Just too beautiful!

It is also fun to get an idea of what’s happening at the huge resorts along the way. We watched bocci at the Rui and lots of beach volleyball everywhere. Lounges and hammocks may be occupied, but out on the water there are banana boats, hoby cats, and pirate barks. In the sky are parasailors. It’s an atmosphere of vitality, and it’s lovely to be a part of it.

Many resorts have beach restaurants and bars on the walk, so stopping for a libation or lunch or even Dunkin’ Donuts is always a possibility.

On the beach side of the walk are the lounges and palapas solely for the hotel guests. The hotels post signs reminding walkers of that fact. The signs stake out each hotel’s turf. As the properties are borderless, the differences are really designated by the different styles and colors of the chairs and lounges and the types and shapes of the palapas. It makes for interesting patterns on the sand and shade as well as for an interesting stroll.

The beaches in Aruba are all open to the public. Regardless of hotel signs, people can make themselves comfortable with their own chairs or blankets. There are even concessionaires from which you can rent anything you need. There is plenty of room for everyone on these very wide beaches. Once again, hotel signs “warn” that the concessionaires are not part of the hotel. The hotels would prefer a bit more exclusion, I’d say, but the concessionaires seem well-established and eager to do business too.

In fact, there are concessions on the beach for just about anything one’s heart desires. We rented Hoby Cats for sailing. We could have booked tours right on the beach as well as through our hotel’s concierge: tours of historic, geological, or unique places on the island, boat rides, snorkeling trips or practically anything else including massages. But to be honest, the beautiful beach and the delightful water keep us close to home most of the day. Aruba by day is for relaxing and enjoying the warmth on your skin.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-03-06T16:20:00.000-05:00

Yes, these crocs are real. We saw them up close and personal
on the Tarcolas River in Costa Rica.
Amazing!

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-02-21T20:18:00.000-05:00

I saw this wonderful combo as we drove along a Texas highway.
Does that pooch look concerned? Nah!
He has his shades and his fur is blowin' in the wind.

ARUBA'S DIVI PHOENIX--CHARM IN A TIMESHARE

2013-02-21T08:08:00.000-05:00

The Divi Phoenix from out on the jetty

Aruba’s charm is irresistible. For many tourists, the introduction is simply a day stop on a Southern Caribbean cruise—a day of shore excursions to the beaches or a tour around the island, a walk around historic Oranjestad where homes are painted in soothing pastels, a visit to the vibrant, colorful markets, or a meal in one of the excellent dining establishments the island has to offer. Almost inevitably, the seed is planted to return to this sliver of paradise tucked warmly in the Caribbean. And so you do. So we did.

Rob and I stayed at the Divi Aruba Phoenix Beach Resort, a condominium type hotel and timeshare (I surmise the new term is “vacation ownership”) in the high-rise section of hotels. More on Aruba’s hotel areas in a later post.

There are five Divi hotels in Aruba: Divi Aruba Phoenix Beach Resort, Divi Village Golf and Beach Resort, Divi Dutch Village Resort, and two all inclusives, Divi and Tamarijn Aruba. Vacation ownership is available in all, and full ownership is available at the Residences at Divi Village Golf and Beach Resort. This is just one company. Think of any major hotel chain, and it is represented in Aruba in a big way.

We also saw building going on for permanent residences intended for foreign retirees. Perhaps that is the next step for this country.

Terrafuse

You know Rob and I are fans of timeshares, and the Divi Phoenix is a pleasure. Our suite is big and comfortable and very nicely appointed. In the living room there hangs a glass sculpture reminiscent of Chihuly, but made in Aruba and called Terrafuse. The Terrafuse studio, by the way, offers classes and tours if one is here long enough, and the work is quite marvelous. We met a man who had taken classes there and loved it.

Our one bedroom suite is lovely and painted in the relaxing, happy shades of teals and beige with the same colors incorporated in the artwork on the walls. It is nicely decorated with comfortable furniture, a sofa, wicker chairs, and a coffee table in the living room, more than ample dresser and closet space in the bedroom and hallway in addition to the comfortable king size bed, a fully stocked kitchen, and two complete bathrooms, one with a whirlpool bath and a separate glass shower, and the other with a glass shower. A louvered utility closet houses a washer/dryer. There are televisions in the living room and bedroom. The living room couch is a convertible should there be up to four in a party. There is a small dining area with room for four, and a kitchen island with bar seating for four.

What a beautiful way to start an evening.

The balcony overlooks the central part of the resort, the pools toward one side, over palm trees to the ocean in the center, and to the beach and ocean on the other side. Just sitting on the balcony, cocktail in hand, watching the sun set over the ocean is one of the most wonderful parts of the day. The sun set around 6:15 PM during our visit, and we make sure to be on the balcony or in some picturesque location each evening so we can savor the beauty.

from our balcony

At night colored lights fill the pools gently changing hues and creating a delectably romantic atmosphere.

The first night we arrive, we enjoy dinner in the hotel at the Pure Beach restaurant. It was the finest Mahi Mahi I’d ever eaten, but more specifics on Pure Beach in a later post.

The Divi Phoenix has two freshwater pools, one with a swim up bar (need you ask if we swam up?), but we were not here for swimming pools. There’s a smaller pool in another section for water games. Each morning I join a terrific water aerobics class that actually has men attending as well as women! Most unusual. I like these and participate each morning while Rob walks. He’s not into water aerobics.

No problem relaxing here--and plenty of shade.
Make sure you use a strong sunscreen.

The beach is fantastic. There are ample palm trees and palapas to provide shade, and though there are the usual idiots who bring some item down before sunrise to “reserve” their space under a palapa, there are ample lounges and space in the shade for everyone. Hammocks stretch between trees, but Rob and I have no problem snoozing on our lounges.

The sand is cool under foot, the trade winds belie the heat, and the water is a perfect temperature with an easy slope and sand bottom. People float around on Swimways Spring Floats or rented floats. It’s heavenly!

One important word of warning. You need a good sunscreen. The trade winds may make you feel cool, but you are very close to the equator. The sun’s rays are very direct here, and I saw several people resembling lobsters. Don’t be one of them.

If there is one negative aspect to spending a week in this kind of setting is that it has spoiled us for hotels which usually lack enough comfortable seating, and unless it’s a suite hotel, you have only one room. These days, I feel cramped! I think I am spoiled.

Some people complain that there is the hard sell when you stay at a timeshare. Sometimes that is true, and you just say no to invitations to tour. In Aruba it was very different. It was so low-key even we were surprised.

I think it all fits in with the Happy Island idea. It works.

We flew United, and when we boarded the plane, we were handed a big, Oprah-style magazine called Destination Aruba. It was filled with history, information about transportation, money, post offices, medical facilities, prominent people, restaurants, festivals, duty-free shopping etc. There were lots of advertisements for just about everything imaginable. I read it cover to cover on the trip down, learned a lot, and altered some of the plans I already had in my head. We hit the Aruban ground running.

As we headed to pick up our luggage at the airport, we passed a big Divi table, and people were handing out free Divi bags (similar to but bigger than the recyclable grocery bags) to everyone regardless of their hotel destination. Inside was a slim brochure on the different Divi resorts, but outside was stamped the Divi logo. Each tourist became a walking advertisement, but there was no attempt to do anything more. I saw these bags all over the island. They were light, folded, and big enough to carry many things.

At the Divi Phoenix we never received the usual “breakfast or lunch invitation plus tour,” but we were invited to meet a hotel concierge. We did that, and he simply checked that everything in our accommodations were all right, helped us with suggestions for restaurants serving authentic Aruban cuisine, and answered our questions about the supermarket shopping and festivals. Not once did he suggest a tour of Divi property or anything vaguely resembling a sales pitch. If we were interested, apparently it was up to us to ask. We weren’t, so we didn’t.

The welcome party with music, drinks, hors d'oeuvres, and
a lot of friendly folk.

A friendly staff is always
welcomed

On Monday evening there is a welcome party—drinks, hors d’oeuvres, music. No sales pitch, but a lot of information about resort activities, getting around the hotel strip, etc. I had already become acquainted with Balashi Beer, the island brew, so I was quite content and enjoyed meeting some of the other guests.

No pressure—just relaxation, beach, and water. Aruba is One Happy Island.

FRIDAY'S FOTO

2013-02-15T15:30:00.000-05:00

Isn't this sunset in Aruba breathtaking? We enjoyed this view from our balcony.

ALA MOANA--OUR FAVORITE HONOLULU BEACH

2013-02-13T13:14:00.000-05:00

Is this the Hawaii of your imagination?

In a previous post, I talked about the different stretches of the 1.5 mile long beach known collectively by tourists as Waikiki Beach but known by locals by other names. If you have to ask directions, it’s best to know those other names as they break down sections of Waikiki Beach.

The maps you will get in guidebooks or in tourist information pamphlets will break down the sections for you, and they are easy to find. You may want one section for your daytime activities and another section for your nightlife where you can begin with a stroll along the beach, stop for a drink and a view of a magnificent sunset over the ocean, or an oceanside dinner or evening’s entertainment. As always, you can wander in from the beach to some of the hotels, and you can enjoy their bars and beachside dining. Walking is the best way to discover the differences.

If you’re traveling with children, you may consider Kuhio Beach next to the Moana Surfrider Hotel which is right past the center of Waikiki Beach where I took photos of the outrigger canoes and surfers. (http://www.thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2013/02/beach-goer-dont-miss-honolulus-waikiki.html) This is the point of quickest access to Waikiki Beach. What’s nice about Kuhio Beach is that there are concrete walls forming two separate and vary calm swimming areas where children might feel safer.

The area where Rob and I spent the day, in front of the beautiful pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel, is known as Grey’s Beach. It’s canted so it catches the sun’s rays perfectly!

But our favorite Honolulu beach lies outside the Waikiki area. It is Ala Moana Beach, a town beach lying between Waikiki and downtown Honolulu. Ala Moana, by the way, means “by the sea,” and you will see these words used all over the islands. Ala Moana is approximately a mile long, so there is plenty of space to enjoy.

This photo by Luna Park Coney Island was taken on

June 23, 2012 in Coney Island, New York.

This might be considered crowded by some,

but this is early in the season. There is still room

to walk!

Many of the guide books warn about crowded beaches in Honolulu. Nowhere we went did we experience what we would term “crowded conditions.” This, of course, brings me back to my theory of travel relativity. As I grew up in New York City, I was used to Orchard Beach and Coney Island where we sometimes had to hop over other beachgoer’s blankets in search of a free spot. That’s how I define crowd. Waikiki Beach was certainly not empty, but there was plenty of room for everyone. I saw nothing even remotely resembling a crowd on Oahu—not even in Honolulu which is a city. But if the pictures of Waikiki (http://www.thirdagetraveler.blogspot.com/2013/02/beach-goer-dont-miss-honolulus-waikiki.html) seemed crowded with people to you, look at these photos of Ala Moana.

Diamondhead watches over this beach too--and the lifeguard stand.

Might things be different in different seasons or on weekends? Certainly the possibility exists, but seeking out the differences is all part of the travel adventure.

Ala Moana can be reached by The Bus, but we had a car. There was ample parking facilities as well as street parking. A road runs along the beach separating it from the other areas of the park. There are bathhouses and bathroom facilities, gardens and lawns for picnicking, palm trees and magnificent banyan trees with their twisted contours providing shade and a beautiful wide beach. There is also a music pavilion and concessions. We did not use all the amenities of this 73 acre park, but they include playgrounds, a lagoon, tennis courts, and a yacht harbor. It’s lovely.

People in need of special sand navigating wheel chairs can borrow them making this beach accessible to everyone—a wonderful and important aspect of thoughtfulness. If you’ve ever traveled with someone who had given up the beach and ocean because of the impossibility of walking on the sand, you would see how marvelous these vehicles are. Additionally there are beach mats leading right to the water. Follow this link to take a look at these: http://www1.honolulu.gov/parks/programs/beach/index1.htm

Fishing and just enjoying the sun.
Everyone is happy.

Paddleboarders and swimmers
enjoy this ocean here.

Ala Moana is actually a man-made beach “by the sea.” It is wide and beautiful. The sand is not hot beneath our feet. The atmosphere enhanced by the palm trees close to the streetside border is incredibly inviting and relaxing. The water is calm almost the entire year because of a lava rock reef set out in the ocean. But at certain times of the year, the area near the reef is perfect for surfers. People like to do long distance swimming here in a deep water channel. There is enough ripple for people to stand-up paddleboard, swim, or just float around.

Some people say this beach is the ideal spot to watch the sun set over the ocean.

How great is this place?