My Enchanting Cottage Garden

Gardening in Las Vegas

2022-04-18T14:09:00.002-07:00

Can you garden in Las Vegas or in any Western locality with temperatures over 100 degrees 50% of the year? The answer is YES! and even better than the Eastern States because drier climates do not foster black spots, Japanese Beatles, mites, and a host of other nasty diseases roses get. All it takes is a little TLC prepping the soil and a generous amount of shade and a whole lot of water!. these are pictures of my 2022 Spring in Las Vegas.

Caribbean Breeze a floribunda grows exceptionally well in dry climates.

Reine des Violets is a Hybrid Perpetual, the dominant class of roses in Victorian England, (a misleading translation of hybrides remontants, 'reblooming hybrids') emerged in 1838 as the first roses which successfully combined Asian remontancy (repeat blooming) with the old European The "perpetual" in the name hints at repeat-flowering, but many varieties of this class had poor re-flowering habits; the tendency was for a massive spring bloom, followed by either scattered summer flowering, a smaller autumn burst, or sometimes nothing at all until next spring.

Paul Neyron another exceptional Hybrid Rose. They became the most popular garden and florist roses of northern Europe at the time, as the tender tea roses would not thrive in cold climates, and the Hybrid Perpetuals' very large blooms were well-suited to the new phenomenon of competitive exhibitions.

How to Rid your Garden of Spider Mites Naturally

2021-06-19T10:20:00.000-07:00

Climbing Roses for the Desert Cottage Garden

2019-05-14T16:01:00.002-07:00

Jasmina is a prolific bloomer and resembles old English roses although it is a modern rose.

This spring the roses and flower blooms were spectacular due to an abundance of rain in the winter. Roses do amazingly well in the Desert garden with no bugs or funguses or viruses to speak of. In the above picture is the once-flowering Alchemyst in the background is a Bourbon rose Zepherine Droughin.

This is a rose that I always had trouble with in Ohio because of the rain and humidity the blooms would ball up and not open. In the Desert garden, Aloha comes to life.

I really do love once blooming ramblers because they put on a mighty show and then exit to a back corner and get ready for the following year. Baltimore Belle.

Butterscotch rose was a new rose added to my garden about 2 years ago. I was intrigued by its color and wanted to find out how it would perform in a Desert garden. It did not disappoint.

Species roses have always interested me in that they originated from the beginning of time. This one is called Dog Rose and in the Spring has delightful little clusters of pink blossoms.

The very first climbing rose I planted when we moved into our home

7 years ago it is named Goldilocks. My husbands favorite rose.

Who can resist Lady Banks rose. It is the first to bloom almost as

if it is heralding in Spring.

Lady Hillingdon is a climbing Tea rose that is beautiful and fragrant.

Hybrid Musk Lavender Lassie is an almost indestructible rose, believe me, I have tried to kill it several times. The blooms are big and an unusual color.

Leonardo da Vinci is a constant bloomer yet it does not get

the recognition it deserves.

Another old climbing tea rose is Mme Caroline Testout. what can I say, the blooms are outstanding!

Mme Caroline Testout blooms remind me of old English Cottage roses.

Mme Isaac Periere a Bourbon rose with a scale of 10 on the perfume scale of roses. The color is a dark pinkish purple and the blooms are huge and the fragrance is out of this world!

A David Autin rose . Tess of d'Urberville is a large fragrant red climber exceptionally hardy in the Desert garden.

Variegata de Bologna is an old Bourbon rose very hard to find but so worth the purchase. It is variegated as the name implies next this year some of my blooms were solid, as a sport, maybe? A very fragrant rose and needs to be3 planted near the front or back porch for the full floral fragrance.

Veilchenblau gets all the attention when it is in bloom and you can see why!

Looking down from the pool deck is another Veilchenblau blooming over my She Shed on the opposite side is Jasmina blooming.

By far the fastest grower in the garden is Zepherine Droughin a bourbon rose.

Awakening is a fast grower and very thorny but the blooms and the fragrance makes it all worth having in the Desert cottage garden

Probably not supposed to be a climber Bourbon Queen is an old bourbon rose that climbs on my trellis without a care in the world and the fragrance will just knock you over.

Last but certainly not least is Fourth Of July. A single blossom striped rose. It doesn't have a fragrance, at least no fragrance that I can smell, but the 24/7 blooming of this rose makes up for the lack of fragrance. Very hardy and resistant to pest and diseases.

Hanging Baskets for the Spring Garden

2019-04-24T16:00:00.002-07:00

Hanging Baskets are a must for small gardens such as mine. It adds quick visual interest and color to the garden. I start all my baskets in the fall-winter in my Garden Shed/mini greenhouse. I nurture them along until Spring which is about March 1 barring any late cold fronts for Las Vegas. They are big and bushy by the time I set them out and flourish in the cooler climate before the unmerciful sun reaches 120 degrees! I usually start with small fushia I order from www.fushia.com and they are sent about 3 inches tall and also order my exotic geraniums from www.geraniaceae.com and they are sent somewhat larger but still small enough to grow over winter. Petunias and such can be purchased at local nurseries. I add granular feed such as osmocote when I put the basket together and water daily with a weak mixture of water with a bloom booster. The baskets will generally last until the end of June and by July 4th they are struggling with the heat.

When I lived in Ohio there were so many varieties of double petunias to choose from it made your head swim, but not so in Las Vegas. The only ones sold are single, the above basket is made with the rare double petunia I found one day at Star Nursery and never to be found again!

A basket mixture of red Petunias, red verbena, and yellow-red mission bells.

The basket above is a mixture of purple Petunias and Convolvulus sabatius "Moroccan Beauty

I started this basket from a cutting of another geranium I have owned for a long time. One of my favorite pastimes is starting new plants and geraniums are by far the easiest to start.

Waiting for the explosion to begin.

Just opening their beautiful little heads!

and still waiting!

This huge basket I bought at Kingsgate.com and it has 15 different plants in it. I can't wait for the basket to totally fill-in!

A simple basket of red petunias.

A mixture of bacopa, Guara and hanging geranium.

A little mini fushia.

Petunia gigantic!!!

By far one of the easiest basket to start and live year after year is the hanging geraniums

A white basket is a must to give balance and dimension to the other more colorful baskets.

The hot pink petunia, this welcomes visitors into the garden gate!

Spring is in the Air! Blooming Trees

2019-03-13T15:16:00.001-07:00

Nothing can be more beautiful than trees blooming in the Spring. I especially love fruit trees blossoms they are so generous.

13 Hardy Roses for Fall blooms in the Southwest Garden

2018-11-14T20:55:00.000-08:00

Pink Promise

Leonardo Di Vinci

Savannah

Munstead Woods

Pretty Jessica

Don Juan

Mustard and Ketchup

Dark Desire

Tournament of Roses

Clotilde Soupert

Brandy

Tropicana

7 Fall Flowers for the Southwest Garden

2018-10-18T17:00:00.002-07:00

Did you know that many spring blossoms will bloom earlier, for longer periods, and on taller stems if planted in the fall? Here are 7of my favorite flowers to plant in your fall garden.

1. Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus). An old cottage garden favorite, rambling sweet peas in all shades of pastels take off when planted alongside a fence line or allowed to overtake a trellis. Plant in rich, amended soil and water deeply and regularly to encourage vigorous roots. To prolong flowering, pick stems or deadhead often. plant early in the fall for early spring bloom.

2. Garganzia. A native of South Africa, the daisy-like gazania flower is a member of the aster family and can tolerate dry climates. Gazanias are hardy and will thrive in most soils, no matter how poor the quality is. Ranging from terracotta to bright yellow in color, gazania plants grow an average of 12 inches and bloom during the spring and summer months. These flowers grow as a perennial in zones nine to 11 and as an annual in zones three to eight. Gazania flowers will blossom in the first year.

3. Poppies (Papaver somniferum) A show stopper. Lovely, old-fashioned beauty, this poppy is a must for country or cottage gardens. Impossibly substantial peony-like pastel blooms from white to rose to deep purple. Not pastel like easter kitsch, but pastel like classy Victorian. The gene pool spans singles and doubles, many with frilly deeply serrated petals. Very top heavy, 3-4’ plants benefit from staking or dense cluster-planting for support. Old and rare variety. The seed pods produce lots of great poppy seeds for baking. This annual with its big peony-like flowers is among the most lovely you can grow.

4. Hollyhocks (A. rosea.) No cottage or country garden would be complete without showy stalks of hollyhock. Once you have planted your hollyhocks, they will need minimal care, The one benefit that comes from growing hollyhock flowers is that they easily reseed themselves. While they may be short-lived, in their proper growing conditions they will continually grow more, which will keep the hollyhock flowers consistent in years to come. Growing hollyhocks in your garden will add some drama and new height.

5. Flowering tobacco (Solanaceae (nightshade) contains the poisonous belladonna and datura species, as well as vegetable garden favorites like potatoes and eggplant. Flowers of the genus Nicotiana bear some resemblance to petunias, another nightshade relative, in appearance and evening fragrance. Flowering tobacco plants produce fuzzy, sticky foliage and flower stalks with nodding trumpet-shaped flowers. Each flower has five petals that flare at the end. The flower colors complement one another so that you can plant a mix for an attractive large nicotiana bed. Most varieties are various shades of pink, white, red, and pale green. Nicotiana cultivars vary from 18 inches to 5 feet in height. Gardeners looking for tall flowering tobacco varieties should stick with heirloom types, as newer compact varieties are bred to flower while still growing in nursery six-packs.

6. Love Lies Bleeding. Amaranthus (A. caudatus) A. caudatus, commonly known as “love lies bleeding,” a large, showy plant with unusual and striking red plumage that offers summer and fall drama. As the plant matures, impressive, large, and red-tinged light green leaves are joined by long “tails” of drouping flower heads populated by hundreds of tiny deep-crimson blooms. Also known as tassel flower, the plant’s 2-foot-long “tails” can retain their color for six to eight weeks and look especially striking when planted with chrysanthemum, sunflower, or viburnum.

7. Larkspur (Consolida sp.) Growing larkspur flowers (Consolida sp.) provides tall, early season color in the spring landscape. Once you learn how to grow larkspur, you will likely include them in the garden year after year. Once established. However, larkspur flower care is simple and basic. When planting larkspur seeds, they must have a cold period before germination. This can be accomplished before planting the seeds, after planting the seeds in peat pots, or after sowing the seeds directly in the flower bed. The most reliable method of chilling larkspur seeds before planting can be done in the refrigerator. Chill protected seeds for two weeks before planting. Place seeds in a ziplock sandwich bag and include some damp perlite to provide moisture. Larkspur seeds often will not germinate at temps above 65 F. (18 C.). Learning when to plant larkspurs that have been chilled requires knowing when the first frost date occurs in your area. Planting larkspur seeds should be done early enough before frost for them to begin developing a root system to hold them over through winter. Growing larkspur flowers do not like to be moved, so plant seeds into their permanent location. Spring planting of larkspur seeds can be done, but flowers may not reach their full potential.

#judyscottagegarden #roses #flower #garden #naturepower #petals #naturelovers #plants #love

She-sheds for the Desert Cottage Garden

2018-08-29T16:11:00.002-07:00

Looking to escape from the burning heat? A small. she-shed at the corner of your lot is the ideal hideaway. I added s small air-conditioner and a small refrigerator to mine and it now serves multiple purposes. We use it as a pool house, potting shed, plant shelter from heat and cold, snack depot for the pool area and last but not least extra storage for pool supplies, gardening supplies, gardening tools and plants.

I use my she-shed to start seedlings and new plants in the winter.

At the back of my she-shed, I enclosed another 6'x9' with bubble wrap to overwinter tender Brugmansia's and to start new plants.

I found a variety of Shed's on Pinterest that you might be interested in viewing. I have taken some ideas from almost each of them.

I have an assortment of watering cans, found at yard sales and I thought this was a neat idea of how to display them.

I loved the color combination on this Shed. It inspired me to paint

my She-shed door purple.

Clematis for the Southwest Cottage Garden

2018-08-21T18:11:00.000-07:00

Clematis are not as hard to grow as you may think. In the Southwest garden, it takes more effort than in the eastern garden but it can be done. First, the Clematis roots MUST be planted in the shade and be mulched heavily. The tops or growing vines must then be in the sun to bloom. If you meet these two criteria then you will have a successful growing clematis plant.

to Grow Clematis
Clematis Planting Info
Pruning Care of Clematis

For proper care of clematis, clematis vines prefer sunny locations (at least six hours of sun needed for blooming) but the soil should be kept cool. An easy way to accomplish this is by planting some type of ground cover or shallow-rooted perennial plants around the clematis. A 2-inch layer of mulch can also be incorporated to keep the roots cool and moist.

Growing clematis vines must be supported in some fashion as well. The type of support system is usually dependent on the variety grown. For instance, poles are acceptable choices for smaller growing clematis vines, which can range anywhere from 2 to 5 feet in height. Arbors may be more suitable for growing larger types, which can get 8 to 12 feet. Most varieties, however, do quite well growing along a trellis or fence.

Clematis vines are usually planted in fall or early spring, for the desert garden.

Clematis plants need plenty of space for adequate air flow as well as a rich, well-draining planting area. You should dig the hole large enough to accommodate the plant, with most recommendations suggesting at least a two foot depth of soil amended with compost prior to planting. It may also help to cut the plant back some before planting to lessen shock as it adapts to its new environment.

Tips for Clematis Care

Once established, care of clematis vines is minimal with the exception of watering. They should be watered about an inch or so weekly, and more deeply during dry spells. Mulch should be replenished each spring. In addition, be on the lookout for common problems affecting these plants. Clematis wilt can cause vines to suddenly collapse and die after their foliage and stems have blackened. Powdery mildew often affects plants with poor air circulation. Aphids and spider mites can be a problem as well.

Annual pruning may also be required to keep clematis plants looking their best. Pruning clematis helps plants remain both attractive and full of flowers. The type of clematis vine grown dictates when and how it should be pruned.

For example, early spring-blooming varieties should be pruned back as soon as possible following their blooming but before July, as they bud on previous season’s growth. Large-flowering types that bloom in mid spring should be cut back to the topmost buds in late winter/early spring. Late-blooming varieties should be pruned back about two or three feet in late winter/early spring.

Nothing is more satisfying than seeing your efforts pay off with a plant covered in flowers year after year! Clematis can be a part of any size garden and they live for very many years. Since Clematis live up to 50 years or more, you should take the time to plant each one carefully.

Fall is the Time to Plant in the Southwest Garden

2018-08-18T19:15:00.002-07:00

Fall is the best time of the year to plant in the Southwest Cottage garden. The temperatures are falling to a bearable level, the rains pick up, and the weeds are gone. Now is the time to get your zone 9 gardens ready for fall planting. I have to admit I do a lot of my fall gardening in pots, where they not only provide fall and winter interest but offers a beautiful edible bounty by early spring.

Fall has distinct planting benefits. Autumn's cooler air temperatures are easier on both plants and gardeners. The soil is still warm, allowing roots to grow until we experience a freeze.

Preparation – Before you plant, you need to get the garden ready. If you are planting in the ground, be sure to add some horse manure or aged cow manure to give the soil extra nutrients. I also inoculate the soil with mycorrhizae–myco means fungus and the suffix means root, so literally root fungi, a word used to indicate a symbiotic relationship between the two. Buy mycorrhizae to add to the planting bed especially around the roots of little plants. Since most of the zone 9b is dry, I add fertilizers to the soil that helps retain moisture. Besides the ones already mentioned you can add other nitrogen-rich additives such as rabbit manure, alfalfa, and cottonseed meal, and for good vegetable and or flower production you also need phosphorus. I use rock phosphate. Also, don’t forget about the potassium. Potassium (or potash) helps plants use water. The best source of potassium for the organic garden is greensand. You can also add wood ash, but it is high in lime so it can lower your pH.

Planting: Don't overwater, but make sure the plants get at least 1 inch of water one time per week. If the temperatures stay hot, then water every day until cooler weather descends.

Vegetables: I usually grow Lettuce, spinach, radishes and collard greens and some kale and other greens with a short maturity time can be planted later in the season. Carrots are a must every year as they germinate quickly, and we do not have the usual pest that seems to harvest the root crops. Carrots taste sweeter when they're harvested after frost.

Perennials: In the long growing season of zone 9b the perennials get to monster size and need to be divided every season, and fall is the only time to do this successfully.

Peony, Irises, Echinacea, Shasta daisy, and mums are all best choices for hot, desert conditions. Geraniums are ideal for pots for winter blooming, but sadly go dormant or dead in the summer heat.

Petunias are the perfect basket plant, they grow quickly and are healthy and fragrant at the same time.

Spring Bulbs: I have tulips, daffodils, lilies, crocus, and several other varieties of spring bulbs that faithfully put on a grand show for me every year. Plant these in late October.

Geraniums will perform best in pots for the fall and winter months. Bring them in if the temperatures dip down below 40 degrees.

Stock is a cottage garden favorite and grows and blooms almost non-stop in the desert setting.

Nasturtium grows the best in the fall-winter months and will self-sow and bloom every year in the fall and winter.

Tree: Even though in zone 9b you can plant all year round, fall is a better time to plant trees. The love the cooler temperature to settle in and develop their roots. The high heat of the summer months puts them into shock, and they don’t grow they just go into survival mode (as we humans also do).

Irises for the Desert Southwest

2018-08-14T21:17:00.002-07:00

Every year glossy catalogs full of gorgeous flowers entice gardeners to try growing bulbs that aren't suited to their climate. Many tulips, for example, won't come back and bloom a second year. They just can't take the heat. Most fall bulbs come from Holland where the weather is cool and cloudy. Here in Las Vegas, the temperature can reach as high as 118 degrees and sunny days are the norm from March on. bulbs that originate from semi-arid and desert regions with seasonal rain, are naturals for Southwest gardens. Under the term “bulbs” are also plants that come from corms, rhizomes and tubers.

Irises grow from a rhizome — an elongated, swollen, underground stem and are among the easiest of perennials to grow in the desert Southwest. They require very little care for the beauty they give. There are many types of iris around the world, many of which can be planted in the desert Southwest. Of the many types of irises, bearded irises are some of the more common. In general, the bearded irises are native to the Mediterranean and near-desert areas. They grow to be anywhere from 15-28" tall except for the dwarf bearded iris, which grows between 5-15" tall. They grow in a variety of colors and can be used to brighten up any yard or garden.

The best time to plant bearded irises is in the late summer through early fall; however, irises are not particularly picky about planting time. Bearded irises, as well as other types of irises are very drought tolerant. Watering is only necessary under the most severe drought conditions. Irises will produce dramatic, beautiful blooms with minimal care, and are a very good plant choice for low or no maintenance gardens.

Bearded irises prefer a well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5-7. The soil does not need to be nutrient rich but adding phosphorus and other nutrients to the soil in the fall can be beneficial. In the winter, the iris can be mulched lightly to protect it from the weather and aid in weed control. Most bearded irises grow best in full sun; however, all of those "full sun" recommendations are made for gardeners who get half the sunshine we do. Shade makes it possible for bulbs to flourish despite our hot climate and helps their flowers last longer. Afternoon shade and shade from trees is especially helpful. As a general rule, the colder the climate where the bulbs come from, the more shade they need.

Bulbs best suited to the desert Southwest are summer dormant and grow during our cool mild winters. When they are actively growing, it is vital to provide regular watering and fertilizing, yet leaving them undisturbed in the soil.

During this period, energy for the following season’s growth and bloom is being directed to the plant’s leaves, stems, and roots. Any relocation of bulbs should be done only when they are dormant.

Organic matter such as coarse peat moss or wood mulch provides a slight acidifying effect and moisture-holding quality to the soil. In heavy soils, 1 to 2 inches of sand worked into the soil will improve drainage.

Successful bulb gardeners add a couple of teaspoons of phosphate per square foot. As a precaution against soil-borne insects, a granular application of a product called “Merit” may also be worked into the soil before planting.

Rather than follow the calendar, it is recommended that bulbs not be planted until day temperatures reliably drop into the low 80-degree range.

If planting into a bed, bulbs are best planted in clumps or groups rather than in rows. The depth of planting is most important, so carefully follow readily available bulb planting guides. As a general rule, it is recommended to plant bulbs at a depth of 2 to 3 times the thickness of the bulb.

After planting, immediately water thoroughly down to the bulb depth. Thereafter, water only frequently enough to maintain slight moisture around the bulbs. or wood chip mulch over the entire soil surface will conserve moisture, discourage weeds, and help regulate temperatures. When growth begins, water plants in the sun every seven to 10 days. For shaded bulbs, watering every two to three weeks will be sufficient.

Using a lower nitrogen fertilizer such as 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate) twice a year will encourage healthy plants. After bulbs have finished blooming, reduce watering and allow the plants to dry. It is important not to remove leaves from the plant until they brown and die.

My Cottage Garden in the Desert

2018-04-25T21:01:00.001-07:00

Gardening in the desert can certainly be a challenge and is not for the faint of heart. Nevertheless with work, diligence, patience and a whole lot of water it can be done. Spring and Fall are the best for gardening as the temperatures are milder. We have a reverse climate in the desert (Las Vegas), whereas our winter months is our best weather and the garden really comes to life. I hope you enjoy the pictures of some of my spring plants.

Mme Alfred Carrier

Jubilee Celebration

Bourbon Queen

Double Delight

Brandy

Belle de Crecy

Zepherine Droughin

Louise Odier

Pelargoniums

Don Juan climbing rose

Lady Banks rosa

Clematis

Honore de Balzac

Honey Parfume

Mme Issac Pierrier

Legends

Lady Hillingdon

Neptune

Clematis

Litchfield Angel

Pretty Jessica

Ketsup and Mustard

Front yard

Oregold

Just Joey

Mr. Lincoln

Savannah

Double Delight

Koco Loco

Zepherine Droughin

Golden Showers

Young Lycidas

"Fifty Shades of Gray" in the Cottage Garden

2017-08-26T19:46:00.002-07:00

The ethereal and striking shades of grey is a rare and sought-after flower. There is a human tendency to desire things that are hard if not impossible to have. Years ago, the illusive white marigold was so sought-after Burpee offered a $10,000 prize to the first american gardener to first grow it. Mrs. Vonk produce a snow-white marigold in 1975 and won the $10,000 prize.

Grey can be an elusive color in floral terms… not many (if any) flowers are grey but there are ways to achieve that hue with some clever use of foliage, flowers and plants.

Luckily for us gardeners living at the desert Southwest with copious hours of solar radiation and minimal cloud cover, gray and silver leaved plants thrive well in our compost-poor, yet mineral sufficient soils. Low water and low maintenance will keep these lighter colored plants not just surviving, but thriving.

And so, it goes with using plants with white, gray, or silvery foliage in shrub beds, flower borders, and any fashion of container. They can range from nearly pure white to gray, gray-green, and with a bluish cast, to a shiny silver hue, all with darker and lighter tones or patches of variegation.

Grey foliage plants all but glow at dusk and light up gloomy shade and dark corners – including indoors - but when used on their own, gray and silver plants can lead the eye while mellowing the landscape, taming intense colors, or serving as buffers between design changes. They also help bring out the best in brighter colors, which shine a bit more with the contrast, and continue to create interest when nearby flowers are finished or not yet in bloom. I think of the neutral gray color, as in real life, to include many shades of gray – dull gray to shiny silvery white, hues of blue-green and gray-green colored leaves. They come in all sizes from thin and tiny (Cerastium tomentosum, snow in summer), to large, flimsy (Salvia argentea, silver sage), tough and fleshy (Stachys byzantina, lambs ear) and thick succulent (Agave parryii, Parry's agave and Echinocereus reichenbachii albispinus, white spined lace cactus), both smooth and prickly. Regardless of the form and appearance, silver and gray leaved plants found in nature (as opposed to white, hybridized variations) can usually be relied upon to be more drought tolerant and sun adaptable than their green relations.

Gray, interspersed with green foliage plants, increases the interest of a bed or border, although all silver or gray gardens can be dull, gloomy and unappealing. Plants with gray and silver foliage pair exceptionally well with pastel and bold colors alike from their green leaved relations. Monet, in his garden at Giverny, was fond of the color combination silver, red and green and silver, red, green and pink.

Rose breeders seem particularly interested in breeding a variety of a grey rose such as Earl Grey; Stainless Steel and Sterling Silver.

Other choices in the grey color family are dusty miller and Artemisia which both are easy to grow, trouble-free, and readily available all season at garden centers. I have containers filled with gray and silvery Agaves, Sedums, Echeverias, Santolina, curry plant (Helichrysum), Mexican ghost plant (Graptopetalum) and several species of gray or silvery Sansevieria. In addition to the dusty miller (Senecio) and Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’, flower beds brimming with all sorts of foliage and flowering plants are both spiced up and toned down with silver sage (Salvia argentea), oversized cardoon plants (Cynara), snow-in-the-summer (Cerastium), Russian sage (Perovskia), Giant Silver Mullein (Verbascum), Dianthus, and Texas sage (Leucophyllum). I also lay claim to a huge Silver Princess Eucalyptus tree in my small front yard.

I think of the neutral gray color, as in real life, to include many shades of gray – dull gray to shiny silvery white, hues of blue-green and gray-green colored leaves. They come in all sizes from thin and tiny (Cerastium tomentosum, snow in summer), to large, flimsy (Salvia argentea, silver sage), tough and fleshy (Stachys byzantina, lambs ear) and thick succulent (Agave parryii, Parry's agave and Echinocereus reichenbachii albispinus, white spined lace cactus), both smooth and prickly. Regardless of the form and appearance, silver and gray leaved plants found in nature (as opposed to white, hybridized variations) can usually be relied upon to be more drought tolerant and sun adaptable than their green relations.

Gray, interspersed with green foliage plants, increases the interest of a bed or border, although all silver or gray gardens can be dull, gloomy and unappealing. Following nature's cue is often a safe bet. Even in desert communities the combinations of green with the gray is common. Only in the more extreme environments, mainly in highly salty or sodic soil communities, does gray appear to overwhelm, at least with our green-trained vision.

Here are Fifty Shades of Gray, more or less, that will shine in your gardens, in sun or moonlight.

Acantholimon hohenakeri, prickly dianthus, evergreen blue-green foliage, pink flowers in spring. Low growing, compact and mounded form, prickly, not for the front of borders, up to 8-12” tall. A rock garden plant.

Achillea ageratifolia, Greek yarrow, light gray-green ever-gray foliage, low growing white, daisy-like spring blooming flower.

Achillea serbica, Serbian yarrow, gray-green evergray, low growing white daisy-like spring blooming flower to 6”T. Forms a low, spreading mat for hot and dry areas.

Achillea x 'Moonshine', yarrow, silver-gray foliage with lemon yellow flowering late spring to summer, drought tolerant 18'W x 24”T.

Agastache ruprestris, hyssop, light gray green leaves, orange flowering mid-summer to fall to 36”T, water every other week.

Agave parryi, Parry's agave. Gray green thick smooth succulent leaves that form a rosette up to 2 ½ feet. Cold hardy to Zone 6 .

Alyssum wulfenianum, Wulfen's Madwort, low growing gray leaved with yellow spring flowers to 6” tall.

Argemone albiflora, white prickly poppy, bluestem prickly poppy. Southern native, silver blue leaves, white blooms spring into summer. Argemone polyanthemos, silver blue leaves, crested white prickly poppy, native, white flowers in late spring.

Artemisia filifolia, Sand Sage, Western native, grow on the dry side for better appearance. 3-6' tall.

Artemisia frigida, Fringed Sage. Low growing 1.5’ x 1.5’ silvery shrub grows from 3000’ – 11,000’. SW native.

Artemesia ludoviciana, white sagebrush, silver foliage, native to most of the US, any soil/condition nearly.

Artemisia x Powis Castle, large mounding perennial with ferny silver leaves. Forms large rounded mound 3'T x 4'W.

Artemisia schmidtiana 'Silver Mound', small mounding silver with silver leaves, about 12” x 12”.

Artemisia stelleriana, Dusty Miller, Old Woman, Beach Wormwood. Perennial native to Japan and Kamchatka has naturalized along the Atlantic coast. Silver white leaves with pale yellow flowers. 'Silver Brocade' is a named variety often planted.

Artemisia versicolor 'Seafoam'. Curlicue sage, yellow flowers with unusual silver foliage. Mounding shrub 18-24”T x 3' W.

Atriplex canescens, Four-wing Salt Bush, Chamiso, 1-6' x 4-8', saline, heat and drought tolerant. Treat lean. SW native shrub.

Atriplex confertifolia, Shadscale, silver gray semi-evergreen leaves. 2 x 2', suited to the garden but grows well under extreme conditions. SW native shrub.

Baileya multiradiata, desert marigold, annual or re-seeding annual. SW native with silver leaves and yellow daisy like flowers.

Berberis trifoliata (Mahonia trifoliata), Agarita, or B. haematocarpa, also called Algerita. Western native shrub, gray blue evergreen leaves and prickly, grows to 8 feet. Makes a good screen.

Bukiniczia cabulica, formerly Aeoniopsis cabulica, small rock garden plant biennial that reseeds. Drought tolerant. Blue-green rosettes with mottled leaves, small pink flowers the second year. Unusual with a fun name.

Cerastium tomentosa columnae, Snow-in-summer, small white daisy-like flowers, summer blooming, low growing and spreading.

Chrysothamus nauseosus nauseosus, Dwarf Chamisa, Silver green leaves and stems, 2 ft. tall, pale yellow flowers in summer. SW native shrub.

Echinicereus reichenbachii albispinus, white spined lace cactus, attractive clumping columnar cactus with bright pink flowers. White spines are so dense as to make the cactus look white.

Eriogonum umbellatum, sulfur flower, gray green foliage with showy sulfur yellow flowers in late spring to early summer. SW native.

Eschscholzia californica, California poppy, annual; reseeding annual. Finely laced blue gray leaves. Yellow cupped spring blooming flowers.

Heterotheca canescens, Gray golden aster, silver foliage, yellow native wild flower, mid summer to fall blooming.

Krascheninnikovia lanata, (previously Ceratoides lanata), Winterfat, 1-3' x 2-4', beautiful winter interest. Native shrub to SW and Western US.

Lavendula, Lavenders. Several species and many varieties grow in well drained soil, medium water-use. Light gray green leaves with white blue, purple and pink flowers, depending on the variety. Spanish lavender (Lavendula stoechas) is usually not cold hardy in the Texas Panhandle.

Leucophyllum minus, Big Bend Barometer bush, 3'T x 2'W, summer flowering after rain, Silver gray leaves. May be the only Leucophyllum reliably cold hardy for the Texas Panhandle.

Nepeta x faassenii 'Select Blue' & 'Walkers Low', blue catmint, gray-green leaves, late spring to fall blooming, low water-use, mounding.

Oenothera caespitosa, White tufted evening primrose, drought tolerant, gray green foliage, white blooms. SW native. Oenothera macrocarpa ssp. incana, Silver edged Missouri evening primrose, native summer with silver-blue leaves, long yellow, chalice shaped blooms.

Orostachys iwarenge, Dunce caps. Succulent from Japan, small, low growing glaucous gray rosettes, dunce caps in late summer.

Perovskia atriplicifolia, Russian sage, blue gray leaves, blue summer flowering shrub, low water-use. Spreading shrub 3-3 ½ 'T x 3'4'W at maturity.

Poliomintha incana, Mint bush, gray frosted mint or hoary rosemary mint. Southwest native shrub with blue gray leaves, lavender white flowers in spring. Grows to 3 ½ – 3 foot tall and wide.

Psilostrophe tagetina, paper flower, perennial herbaceous native, gray green foliage with yellow blooms spring and summer.

Ruschia pulvinaris, shrubby ice plant. Small low growing and mounding with blue gray succulent leaves, tiny magenta flowers to 6”. Attractive for the rock garden.

Salvia argentea, silver sage, biennial foliage plant with silver-green leaves with annoying sticky dirty white flowers on stalk. Leaves look tough like lambs ear but tear easily and are easily damaged by hail.

Salvia chamaedroides, New Mexican sage, Beautiful shrub with gray-green leaves with blue summer flowering, 2' x 2'. Native to the upper Chihuahuan deserts.

Salvia daghestanica, Dwarf silver leafed sage. Xeric, 10” x 12”, violet blue, flowers for 3 – 4 weeks, late spring.

Salvia dorrii, small, xeric, 12” x 12”, silver leaves with purple flowers. SW native.

Salvia officinalis, the herb sage. Gray green leaves with blue flowers in spring. Low water-use.

Salvia pachyphylla, Mohave Sage, xeric, 30” x 30”, unusual sage, Silver leaves with stunning purple sticky flowers.

Santolina chamaecyparissus, gray santolina with small yellow flowers. Gray foliage, mounding and spreading. To control growth, trim back after flowering.

Senecio cineraria, (now Jacobaea maritima) Dusty Miller or silver ragwort. Perennial subshrub native to the Mediterranean region with yellow daisy like flowers, whitish silver leaved plant grown as an annual. Cold-hardy in Zones 8-10. Senecio flaccidus, Threadleaf groundsel, native perennial, silvery blue green leaves with yellow daisy-like flower, can grow to 2'T x 2'W.

Shepherdia argentea, Silver Buffaloberry, grows to 6-18’T x 4-15’W. Gray green leaves. Cold hardy to -30. The flowers are inconspicuous, but in July the female shrubs are filled with red fruits.

Sphaeralcea angustifolia, globe mallow, light gray green foliage, light pink flowers throughout summer and fall, native to the Davis Mountains. Sphaeralcea coccinea, caliche globe mallow, silvery gray foliage, spring blooming orange and orange red flowers, local native perennial. (Also S. ambigua and Sphaeralcea grossulariifolia, gooseberryleaf globemallow, red, native to SW, xeric.)

Stachys byzantina, (formerly Stachys lanata) lambs ears and 'Helen von Stein' 'Silver Carpet' et al, lambs ears, tough but soft, gray tomentose leaves with pink fragrant flowers.

Tanacetum niveum, white bouquet tansy, silver gray leaves, small white daisy-like flowers late spring.

Teucrium aroanium, gray creeping germander, gray green evergreen foliage, deep lavender pink fragrant flowers summer long.

Thymus pseudolanguginosus, woolly thyme, small gray leaves, a low to the ground ground cover. Rarely flowers.

Veronica incana, silver speedwell, silver gray leaves with blue flowers on spikes summer long.

Veronica pectinata, woolly creeping speedwell, woolly grayish green evergreen leaves, blue flowers, drought tolerant ground cover.

Are "Safe" Insecticides-Pesticides Good to Use in Your Garden?

2017-08-25T18:01:00.000-07:00

There is an alarming and discernible decline in the population of pollinator insects that make seeds and fruits magically appear on plants, shrubs and trees. While this decline is not news for those of us interested in gardening and farming, we need to educate everyone about the far-reaching effects a loss of our pollinators will have on everyday ramp up our efforts to reverse this trend.

Your garden is an ecosystem, and involves an intricate web of life, from the soil microbes underground to the birds in the trees. It’s easy to grab the spray bottle to kill off the dandelions and blow down the flies, kill foliage eating caterpillars but what are the knock-on effects? Many of the insects we think of as a backyard nuisance often provide services we don’t see. For example, many native wasp and fly species (even blowflies!) are pollinators as adults. And as larvae, they control many of the insect pests we see on our plants, or decompose organic wastes. Small reptiles, like geckoes and skinks, mostly feed on small insects that annoy us, like mosquitoes and midges.

Insecticides/Pesticides

When you grab a bottle of insecticide/Pesticides to kill off that annoying scavenger you are disrupting the food chain in the ecosystem. Insects we think of as indispensable are a favorite food source for many beneficial insects. Aphids and scale insects produce a sugary substance called honeydew as they suck on plants, which is an important sugar source for some beneficial insects like wasps, bees, ants and hoverflies.

Insecticides can kill beneficial insects, or affect them indirectly by disrupting their metabolism or reproductive cycles. Overuse of herbicides removes important food resources, like dandelions, that pollinators rely on if other flowers are scarce.

Pollinators

Native pollinators, especially bees, are a keystone species in most of our nation's diverse ecosystems. Nearly 70 percent of all flowering plants need pollinators to reproduce. More than a third of our food and beverage supply relies on the plants they pollinate.

Pollinators, like bees and butterflies, need nectar and pollen sources throughout the growing season. Diversify your native plantings so that you have different flower fragrances, shapes and colors throughout the spring and fall. Often native shrubs, flowers and trees reseed themselves thus becoming the most sustainable and, therefore, most available of plants.

Not only are our native bees in decline (did you know that there are roughly 4,000 species?), so is the European honeybee, introduced in the 1600s and now critically important to our nation's agricultural production. The honeybee condition described as Colony Collapse Disorder continues to be the subject of much research with no single culprit identified as cause. Disease is also striking our native bumblebees (there are nearly 50 species in North America!).

What's a plant lover to do?

Native plants are survivors. They are disease resistant and less susceptible to drought conditions, making them more able to offer up their pollen and nectar when other plants are succumbing to infection and rainless summer conditions. Reducing or eliminating your use of pesticides and herbicides will make a tremendous difference in the recovery of pollinator populations. Dusts and sprays are not picky and will leave an equally toxic coating on pollinators. Limiting synthetic chemical use is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to enhance wildlife in gardens. So, I recommend, forget the spray and hand pick the annoying pest off your plant and relocate it to another area of your garden so the ecosystem in your garden won’t be disrupted.

Roses for the Southwest Cottage Garden

2017-04-16T23:51:00.000-07:00

It is spring in the Las Vegas desert and Roses are at their peak. The above rose Koko Loco has unusual coloring and loves the heat.

The pale pink delicate petals of Eglantine defies the Las Vegas heat and sun.

Fragrant Cloud is a hardy HT that blooms no matter what, this rose is a reliable bloomer in the desert.

All Tea roses love the heat and grow into fine lush bushes. Above is the OGR Francis Dubreuil

Once 'Leonardo de Vinci' gets started there is no stopping this hardy climber.

Neptune HT another hardy bloomer for the heat.

Ramblers find a place in the heat and rise to the occasion.

Queen Elizabeth knows no boundaries and blooms 11 months out of the year.

Veilchenblau another rambler that that shines in the sun and heat.

Mr. Lincoln, a favorite for its large deep red blooms that are long lasting on the stem.

A little-filtered sunlight helps most roses to thrive

in the Desert Sun.

6 Reasons to Move to Las Vegas and Start a Cottage #judyscottagegarden #roses #flower #garden #naturepower #petals #naturelovers #plants #love

2017-03-20T10:15:00.001-07:00

Reason 1: Perfect weather almost year round, (not counting the 12 weeks of triple-digit heat).

Having nice mild winters and springs means you can grow plants that most eastern and northern gardeners cannot. I can leave dahlia bulbs in the ground all year. Never have to worry about a deep freeze.

Reason 2: You can grow about anything in the desert.

I have found only a very few plants I could not grow because of the heat. Everything I plant grows and seems to thrive. Iris bulbs do not have bugs eating away at the roots, and the blooms are huge!

Reason 3: No bugs! No blackspot!

When you live in an area that does not have blackspot you can grow organically, no spray no chemicals ever! Most eastern gardeners cannot grow Tea Roses, as they will die out in the winter. They love the heat. The above picture is the lovely Francis Dubreuil, old garden tea rose. The smell is delightful and the bush is in constant bloom all year round in Las Vegas

Reason 4: Roses love the Heat!

For some reason, my roses just love the warm heat. For the few weeks of extreme triple digit temperatures they will stop blooming and practically go dormant, but as the temperatures start dropping in late September, they start back up where they left off. Eglantine above.

Reason 5: Plant once, never plant again!

The above picture of Stock has bloomed almost continuously for 2 years. I throw out hollyhock seeds, gaillardia seeds, phlox, herbs, marigolds, Nicotiana and about 45 other mixed seeds, everything grows and comes back year after year. No such thing as an annual in Las Vegas, once plant it is there to stay.

Reason 6: Gardening for Dummies!

Do you have bad knees, bad back, can't bend, can't dig, no problem, throw your seeds out in your bed and water, they will grow and grow and grow! If you have caliche dirt you will have to add some cheap bags of compost or cow manure to prepare the soil, but the main ingredient is water it will grow.

6 Rare and Spectacular Bulbs for Summer Bloom

2017-01-06T16:38:00.001-08:00

lily

1. Gloriosa Climbing Lily

Gloriosa Lily Planting: Nothing quite compares to the beauty found in a Gloriosa Lily (Gloriosa superba), and growing a climbing lily plant in the garden is an easy endeavor. Gloriosa Climbing Lilies Gloriosa climbing lilies, also known as flame lilies and glory lilies, thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be overwintered successfully in zone 9 with winter mulch. In colder areas, climbing lilies can be grown successfully during the summer and lifted and stored for the winter. These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. The ideal time for Gloriosa lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches and lay the tuber on its side in the hole. Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers. Gloriosa Climbing Lily Care Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches to give your Gloriosa climbing lily a good start. Keep the ground evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Fertilize climbing lilies every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming. Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.

2. Pineapple Lily
Pineapple lilies are in the genus Eucomis and include a wide range of tropical plants native to warm moist regions of the world. A little-known fact about pineapple lilies is that they are actually related to asparagus. Both plants are in the Lily family. Pineapple lily plants grow from bulbs. These interesting bulbs start out as a rosette and do not usually start blooming for a year. Then annually, the plants produce the pineapple-shaped flowers from July to August. Some varieties carry a faint, unpleasant scent. The bulb is actually comprised of many tiny little flowers clustered together in a cone shape. The colors vary but are usually white, cream or flecked with violet. The pineapple lily has pointed spear-like leaves and a flowering stem that rises above the plant.

How to Grow a Pineapple Lily Flower Growing pineapple lilies is easy. In zones of 9 or below, start them in pots and then transplant them outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. Plant the bulbs in well-prepared soil with excellent drainage. Work in a few inches of compost or leaf litter to increase the tilth and nutrient content of the planting bed. Dig holes 6 to 12 inches deep, every 6 inches. Place the bulbs in full sun in spring once soils have warmed to 60 F. (16 C.). Growing pineapple lilies in a deep container will help you save the bulbs. Move the containers indoors when temperatures drop in fall.

3. Golden Lycoris
The Lycoris bulb will indeed surprise you if you are not familiar with her ways. Lycoris first presents a lush display of draping foliage, similar to that of the daffodil. A closer look reveals rounded leaf tips on attractive arching leaves. Just when you expect buds to develop, the foliage dies back, and the unaware gardener can feel robbed. The Lycoris flower that will bloom from July to August. Lycoris squamigera appears quickly atop a sturdy stem called a scape. Scapes rise suddenly from the soil and bear clusters of six to eight of the showy, pink Lycoris flower. Scapes reach 1 to 2 feet, and fragrant blooms of the Lycoris flower last for several weeks. Tips for Growing Lycoris Plant Lycoris bulbs in a full sun location for fullest bloom. Plant Lycoris bulbs with the tip just below soil level, more deeply in colder areas. From the Amaryllis family, the Lycoris squamigera bulb is the coldest hardy of the family and grows in USDA gardening zones 5-10. Plan long-term placement of the Lycoris bulb, as it does not like to be disturbed once planted. The Lycoris flower is not a drought-resistant specimen and will benefit from regular watering unless dormant. Dormancy occurs in winter and between foliage die back to bloom time in spring to summer. Do not fertilize Lycoris bulb soon after planting; wait for a month or so to avoid burning the newly forming roots. Two different fertilizers benefit the Lycoris flower and foliage; one which is high in potassium in late autumn followed by a nitrogen-rich fertilizer in early spring. This encourages growth in foliage, thereby encouraging bigger blooms of the Lycoris flower.

4. Royal Robe Giant Calla Lily

How to Grow Giant Calla Lillies A native of South Africa, giant calla lilies are often called white giant calla lilies or even Hercules calla lilies, but they are not, in fact, a member of the lily family. There are 28 different species of the calla lily, including the wedding favorite, the giant calla lily. The giant calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica. Select a cooler environment, preferably one where the plant can live below 70 degrees. Giant white calla lilies thrive in cooler, well-lit environments.

To plant by seed, sow seeds in the spring in a seeding flat in the well-draining potting soil. Insert seeds to a depth of 0.5 inches and cover with potting soil. Keep the seeding flat in a warm location (80 degrees) and the soil moist. Transfer to larger containers after seedlings sprout.
To plant rhizomes, fill a container with standard well-draining potting soil, which will contain enough nutrients to feed the growing plant. Use a pH soil tester and amend as necessary to ensure the potting mix contains a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Bury rhizomes 4 to 6 inches deep, gently firming potting material. Water well, then apply a small amount of fungicide.
Keep soil moist at all times but ensure adequate drainage. Giant calla lilies do well in a semi-aquatic environment, but standing water can lead to fungal and bacterial infections. Fertilize weekly after sprouts appear.

5. Emily McKenzie Crocosmia

Growing crocosmia flowers in the landscape produce masses of sword-shaped foliage and brightly colored blooms. Crocosmias are members of the Iris family. Originally from South Africa, the name comes from the Greek words for “saffron” and “smell.” Learning how to plant crocosmia bulbs can give your garden dimension and sunrise colors of red, orange and yellow, and the funnel-shaped blooms have a subtle scent that increases when they are dried. Crocosmia Plants Crocosmia blooms are produced on slender stems of 2 feet or more in length. The flowers appear in May or June and the plant will keep producing all summer. Crocosmia flowers make excellent cut flowers for indoor arrangements. These plants are hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 9. Corms differ from bulbs by the lack of rings on the interior but otherwise function in a similar manner. Crocosmias prefer slightly acidic soil. Make sure the garden bed is nutrient rich and well-drained, but lightly moist. Plant the corms in spring about 6 to 8 inches apart at a depth of 3 to 5 inches. Plant them in clusters for maximum effect. The corms will naturalize, or produce offsets, over time. Plant crocosmias in full to part sun for best results. Crocosmia Bulb Care Once planted, little is needed in the way of crocosmia bulb care. The corms are hardy and rarely need to be lifted for winter except in areas below USDA Zone 5. In these areas, plant them in pots and then move the pots to a sheltered location for winter storage. You can also dig them up, dry the bulb and store where temperatures are moderate over the freezing period.

6. Orange Candle Flower

Arum can be grown year round but is ideal during the winter and early spring months. Arrow-shaped leaves arrive in spring, then later in early summer, you'll see spikes of bright orange berries. Foliage then appears to finish out the season. With its speckled arrow-shaped leaves and orange "seed pod" flowers, you will definitely have a unique plant in your gardens and containers. The Orange Candleflower grow from root-like bulbs, called tubers. They produce the largest leaves in partially shaded sites. They will become 10 to 15 inches tall. The plants produce a jack in the pulpit, like flower in early spring. They then produce orange / red berries into the summer. The majority of the foliage will appear in the fall. In warmer areas, zone 6 south, the foliage should die back in the spring when the plant's flower. In colder zones 4 & 5, the foliage will die back in the winter, but the roots should shoot new flowers in the spring. It helps to winter mulch the plants in colder climates. The plants will multiply every year and have a slow growth rate. The Orange Candleflower can also multiply

by seed. Perennial in Zones 5 - 9. Arum italicum

5 New Roses to Plant in 2017

2016-12-24T13:57:00.002-08:00

Photo Courtesy of David Austin Nursery

Planting your Bare Root Roses

This is the time of year, now that the holidays have past, to take a look at all the catalogs that arrived in your mailbox at a steady stream. My favorites, of course, are always the rose catalogs. I try to order one or two of the new introductions every year. I mostly buy own-root roses, but I always make an exception with Regan Nursery Roses. I have had nothing but success when planting their superior quality roses. Some of the strongest and best bloomers have come from them. I have listed below some of their new 2017 roses and instructions on the best way to plant bareroot roses. If you have a favorite rose to share, please post, we would love to hear from you. Judy

A little prep work goes a LONG way!

The roses arrive... Wow! What a shock! Wrapped in plastic, these things look like sticks, and dangling roots... no soil, leaves, or flowers...helpless, and YOU are the care giver! First, look at the branches: usually 8"-12" long, anywhere from 3 to 5 of them. some may look thin. Don't worry, they'll grow nice and healthy!

Inspect the roses closely: look for broken canes or blackened roots. Prune or tip these back to healthy tissue, then plunge these "sticks" in water...TOTALLY! for 24 hours. One of the most common cause for bare root roses to fail is by drying out. Putting your new roses in the "tub" will help rehydrate them.

Before planting

Do not let your new bare root roses dry out before planting. Plant your roses as soon as possible, or store them in moist soil. Just lay the roses partially on their side and heap loose soil over the roots, then keep moist. (This is also called "heeling in".)

When to plant a bare root rose

When to plant a bare root rose is the first question, and perhaps the easiest. Bare root roses are only available from late fall through the winter months... this time frame can be extended by placing your roses in cold storage, but the general rule of thumb is to plant after the last hard frost in your area.

If you need help determining your last frost date, check with your local garden center or ag extension office. If you wait until too late in the spring, your new roses may dry out. However, if you live in the cold, frozen tundra (just kidding!), USDA Zone 5 or lower...(Brrr...) then bury the bud union 2"-6" below the soil surface for frost protection. (Not sure of your zone? See USDA Hardiness Zone Map.)

Get 'em in the ground

Place a garden tool handle or stick across the hole to determine the height of the bud union. To protect the newly planted bare root rose from any late frosts, cover it entirely with loose compost for the first 2-3 weeks.

Take last lookee lookee:

Are the rose's roots — soft, healthy, no broken tips? Are all the rose canes green, well spaced? To visualize this, try placing the palm of your hand upward, forming a cup with your fingers. If there are more than 6 or 7 canes, thin prune them out to 3 to 5 canes. If possible, first locate an outward facing bud. Prune each cane 4-6" (10-15 cm) above the crown. (See Anatomy of a Bareroot Rose for help if needed.) Prune the bareroot rose tips back to white tissue to encourage new roots to develop as the wound heals. O.K. You're ready to go! Hold on a sec... roses like soils that drain well, that have substance, (like clay, not too much) and neutral or slightly acid soils. Check out how to Dig That Hole!!. (Its not just how you dig, its what you dig!)

Last but not least!!!

Create a nice water basin, a circular 2"-3" berm, around your new bareroot rose.

New roses offered by Regan Nursery, all roses are bare-root.

https://www.regannursery.com/

Photo Courtesy of Regan Nursery

Ambiance'™' New 2017

Rosa Miniature 'Ambiance™ New 2017'

Mini-Flora variety Soft peach petals with a pale reverse High-centered, double hybrid-tea blooms, about 3 inches wide Plant size is 24-36 inches high Great for patio container or small garden

Photo Courtesy of Regan Nursery

Tropical Lightning™ New 2017

Rosa Cl. 'Tropical Lightning™ New 2017'

	Beautiful sunset-orange with bright cream stripes
	Climbing 10-12 ft. and spreading

Photo Courtesy of Regan Nursery

Flawless'™' New 2017

Rosa Miniature 'Flawless™ New 2017'

Mini Flora Hybrid-tea form with pink blooms

"One of the best pink roses on the market today"

Photo Courtesy of Regan Nursery

Bajazzo

Rosa Cl. 'Bajazzo™ New 2017'

	Very vigorous climber
	Won 2014 Biltmore award "best climber"

Description says 'Hot Pink' even though it looks orange in photo

Photo Courtesy of Regan Nursery

All My Loving™
Rosa Hybrid Tea 'All My Loving™ New 2017'

	Long cutting stems, great for bouquets
	Flowers are high centered and double, 4-5 inches

Photo Courtesy of Regan Nursery

Deja Blu'™' New 2017

Rosa Miniature 'Deja Blu™ New 2017'

Mini-Flora Deep mauve with magenta highlights on long stems. Nearly thornless. Reportedly does well in the rain and heat in all parts of the country

How to Make a Storybook Cottage Garden

2016-10-02T20:45:00.003-07:00

No other type of landscape can enchant quite like a cottage garden. Charming mixes of flowers, edibles, perennials, shrubs, annuals, espaliered fruit trees, evergreens and more give these gardens a wide variety of colors, heights, and shapes, creating storybook surroundings. Their anything-goes style makes them a great way to dip into gardening if you haven’t tried it before. Before you dig in a trowel, let these 12 delightful examples inspire you.

Capability Chris

Pai

3. Some architecture insists on a cottage garden. A house in England with a thatched roof would look as though it forgot to put on its pants without a cottage garden dressing it. Stone walls, wild mounds of flowers, plants of different heights and lots of color make this home a wonderland.

4. Still, boundaries are made to be broken. Plants that climb, creep and spill over walls and fences are ideal.

NatureWorks Landscape Services, Inc.

5. No straight lines are required. A meandering edge suits these mounds of flowers just fine. This garden gets a bit of order by arranging the flowers from lowest to highest from front to back.

JuliaGarden Des

Fall Plants for the Southwest Cottage Garden

2016-09-09T15:11:00.000-07:00

Fall is the best time of the year to plant in the Southwest Cottage garden. The temperatures are falling to a bearable level; the rains pick up, and weeds are not nearly as much of a problem. Also, my favorite vegetables are the brassicas that thrive in the fall. Even though we are still experiencing some triple digit temperatures, the weather is on a downward slide to cooler weather. Now is the time to get your zone 9 gardens ready for fall planting. I have to admit I do a lot of my fall gardening in pots, where they not only provide fall and winter interest but offers a beautiful edible bounty by early spring.

Fall has distinct planting benefits. Autumn's cooler air temperatures are easier on both plants and gardeners. The soil is still warm, allowing roots to grow until we experience a freeze. Myth no. 1 Desert Southwest does not freeze. Wrong! It is true we do not have a very long ‘winter’ season, but we do have about one may two weeks where the temperatures dip into the low 30’s, and my little fish pond will have a thin layer of ice covering it. Tender plants such as my bougainvillea have to be brought in. I made the mistake in February, and my lovely little bougainvillea suffered frostbite, and it took two months to recover.

Preparation – Before you plant, you need to get the garden ready. If you are planting in the ground, be sure to add some horse manure or aged cow manure to give the soil (if you can call what we have in the ground “soil”) extra nutrients. I also inoculate the soil with mycorrhizae–myco means fungus and the suffix mean root, so literally root fungi, a word used to indicate a symbiotic relationship between the two buy mycorrhizae to add to the planting bed especially around the roots of little plants. Since most of the zone 9b is dry, I add fertilizers to the soil that helps retain moisture. Besides the ones already mentioned you can add other nitrogen rich additives such as rabbit manure, alfalfa, and cottonseed meal, and for good vegetable and or flower production you also need phosphorus. I use rock phosphate. Also, don’t forget about the potassium. Potassium (or potash) helps plants use water. The best source of potassium for the organic garden is greensand. You can also add wood ash, but it is high in lime so it can lower your pH.

Planting: Don't overwater, but make sure the plants get at least 1 inch of water one time per week. If the temperatures stay hot, then water every day until cooler weather descends.

Vegetables: I usually grow Lettuce, spinach, radishes and collard greens and some kale and other greens with a short maturity time can be planted later in the season. Carrots are a must every year as they germinate quickly, and we do not have the usual pest that seems to harvest the root crops. Carrots taste sweeter when they're harvested after frost.

Perennials: In the long growing season of zone 9b the perennials get to monster size and need to be divided every season, and fall is the only time to do this successfully.

Peony, Irises, Echinacea, Shasta daisy, and mums are all best choices for hot, desert conditions. Geraniums are ideal for pots for winter blooming, but sadly go dormant or dead in the summer heat.

Petunias are the perfect basket plant, they grow quickly and are healthy and fragrant at the same time.

Spring Bulbs: Myth no.2 bulbs do not get enough cold temperatures to bloom. Wrong! I have tulips, daffodils, lilies, crocus, and several other varieties of spring bulbs that faithfully put on a grand show for me every year. Plant these in late October.

Geraniums will perform best in pots for the fall and winter months. Bring them in if the temperatures dip down below 40 degrees.

Annual Flowers: Annual flowers in zone 9b usually become perennials as they just will not die. I had petunias that lasted three years or more. The best seeds to plant are hollyhock, Bachler buttons, asters, nasturtiums, gaillardia, love lies bleeding, marigolds. I started these seeds five years ago, and I have never replanted, and they are still going strong. The plants I buy are stock, snapdragon, purple salvia, and petunias. Don't forget to add Opium poppies and nicotiana.

The stock last all summer and picks up blooming again in October

Nasturtium will self-sow and bloom every year in the fall and winter.

Spring Comes Early to Las Vegas Gardens

2016-03-11T08:55:00.000-08:00

Geraniums winter over in my small Garden Shed/Greenhouse. They bloom all winter and really put on a show in February and March. the dry hot heat of the Las Vegas desert clime does not agree with them so they go semi dormant and wait until cooler weather to bloom again.

The Nectarine is an early bloomer but still behind the peach and apricots and the apples. Fruit trees seem to love the desert soil and heat and they appreciate the “no insects”. Other than the birds we have a near perfect crop of fruit.

Petunias love the cool weather and bloom through the winter and on until mid summer and then the heat bids them ado. The petunias act like a perennial and can last several years.

My apricot proved to be a real winner in this heat. It grew over 20 feet in two years and has produced bushels of apricots which went right into apricot preserves.

Hardy Stock never lets me down. It grows and blooms most of the year and last for many years without replanting. The fragrance of the stock planted near the back porch is heavenly when evening comes and we all gather on the porch.

The never ending nasturtiums. Once planted you will never have to plant again. As the weather starts to warm they emerge out of the ground and quickly spread or climb and is in constant bloom.

Chinese Pear tree abundant blooms and mid summer delicious fruit.

Fruit already emerging from the apricot trees. Very early this year. Started fruiting in early February.

I love the lovely fragrant pink blooms of my Gala apple. So early and bears well.

The lovely blooms of my Gala apple tree.

I love the contrast of the white geranium, and with so much color in the garden it is a nice balance.

I was so happy to see all 7 of my clematis coming up, can’t wait to see the profusion of blooms.

This lavender blooms all year and the hummingbirds love this plant. It gives a nice filler between the roses.

Malvis “Zebrina” It grows everywhere, I find it in the rocks under trees, anywhere the wind blows the seeds it germinates, very hardy and prolific bloomer.

Citrus trees in full bloom, I will look forward to delicious oranges in late summer.

Pink Stock. So fragrant.

6 Steps to Growing Perfect African Violets

2015-12-28T23:11:00.002-08:00

1. Provide adequate light for the flower. It is the most important factor in promoting flowering. Place plants near any window that has bright, but filtered, light. An east window is best because it gets morning sun. A thin curtain will be necessary if placing plants in a south or west window. In order to develop a nice symmetrical form, plants must be turned 1/4 turn every week. If a good natural light source is not available, plants can be grown under fluorescent lights. Use double tube fixtures with one cool white bulb and one broad spectrum bulb. Lights should be 8 to 10 inches (20.3 to 25.4 cm) above the top of the plants and turned on for 12 to 14 hours a day. If plants have tight centers or seem to be bleaching out, reduce the number of hours to 8-10 a day.

2. Water at the right times. Most violets die from over-watering than from any other single cause. Violet soil should be kept evenly moist and never allowed to become soggy. Water only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Always use tepid water.

3. Water them the right way. You can water from the top, bottom, use wicks or use self watering planters. However, about once a month, plants should be watered from the top to flush out accumulated fertilizer salts. Never allow plants to stand in water (unless wicked or Oyama Planters are used). If water gets on the leaves, dry with a paper towel to prevent leaf spotting.

4. Use a good growing medium. A potting medium suitable for African Violets should be sterilized, and light and airy to allow root penetration. Soil-less mixes are ideal - they contain sphagnum peat, vermiculite and perlite.

5. Provide the right atmosphere. Temperature and humidity are important factors. Most violets can tolerate temperatures between 16-26°C (60 and 80°F). Ideal temperatures are 22-2°C (72-75°F) day-time and 18°C (65°F) night-time. The preferred humidity range is 40% to 60%. A humidifier or bowls of water placed near plants can be used to increase your home's humidity during heating season.

6. Fertilize. Lack of regular feeding is one of the reasons an African violet will not bloom. The best way to feed is to use a dilute fertilizer solution every time you water. Use 1/8 to 1/4 tsp. fertilizer to one gallon of water. A balanced fertilizer should be used such as 20-20-20 or 12-36-14. Find a fertilizer with a low nitrogen urea content as urea burns the roots. Some brands are Peters, Optimara, Miracle Grow, Schultz. Formaldehyde, Copper Sulfate, and Nitroglycerin, if added to the soil with extreme care and moderation, may enhance the lives of your plants. Turpentine, Iodine, and common table salt are some other examples of excellent soil additives, as they assist in preventing weed growth.

Tips

Avoid wetting the leaves. This can cause brown spots on the delicate foliage. The soil should be kept damp, but avoid over-watering, which can cause root or crown rot. The average plant should be watered once a week or whenever the top 1" of soil feels dry. It is best to water from below by placing a saucer of water under the pot, assuming the pot has proper drainage in the bottom. The ideal plant medium is 25% air, 25% water, and 50% soil.
African violets need consistency of care.
You can easily propagate African Violets yourself which should be done in spring. Simply cut off a healthy leaf with its stem using a sharp knife (cut the stem right at the base). Trim the stem to about 1,5 inches and stick it into the growing medium. Water it thoroughly, but make sure that you don't drown the leaf and that it doesn't get moldy from a lack air ventilation. Roots should appear after about a month, with the new leaves and plants taking another three weeks.

Reprint from Wikihow

Winter Blooming Camellias

2015-11-22T21:52:00.001-08:00

Growing up in Alabama I took the Winter blooming Camellias for granted. Why not, they bloomed everywhere and everybody had one in their yard. Naturally that is why Camellia, is the state flower of Alabama. But later in life and miles from Alabama I find it is not as popular in other states and many people have never heard of a Camellia. Camellias are broad-leaved evergreen shrubs that grow up to 12 to 25 feet tall and produce showy, rose-like flowers in a wide range of colors between white and red flowers. Camellias grow in hardiness zones 6 through 8. I live in the desert plains of Las Vegas which you would not consider idea for camellias, yet grown in a shady spot, and in a large pots and tubs, they have acclimated and do well.

Camellias produce flowers with overlapping petals that are up to five inches in diameter from late winter to early spring. The lustrous deep green leaves stay glossy year round. The plants grow slowly but they can reach a height of 20 feet when mature. Camellias are popular throughout the southeastern U.S. and enthusiasts have developed over 3,000 hybrids and cultivars in a wide range of colors.

Requirements

Camellias need a rich well-drained soil with lots of moisture and a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The best location is on the west side of a wall or structure where the plant will have protection from morning sun. Plants develop leaf scorch when grown in full sun. Camellias have shallow roots and need a thick mulch help the soil hold in moisture. They prefer partial shade in warm climates and light shade in cooler regions. Camellias are hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 6 to 9. Insufficient watering can cause buds to drop in the summer. Protect camellias from direct sunlight and add 2 or 3 inches of mulch to preserve soil moisture.

Planting
Plant camellias between late fall and early spring. Most varieties spread 6 to 8 feet, so allow plenty of room between plants. When planting camellias as a hedge space them 6 feet apart. Plant camellias in a hole 2 to 3 times as wide and the same depth as the root ball. If the soil is heavy or compacted dig the hole wider and and deeper work in some organic material such as ground pine bark or mature compost before planting.

A frequent reason that newly planted camellias don’t survive is planting too deep. Before planting, mound loose soil or added organic material on the bottom of the hole so that the top of the root ball is an inch or a little more above the surrounding ground level. The plants will settle after planting.
After planting apply a 3 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch. Pine straw is a good mulch for camellias because it helps to acidify the soil. Do not fertilize camellias at planting time.

Winter Care
Although camellias can normally tolerate temperatures as low as 10 degrees F, a sudden dip in temperatures can damage foliage and kill flower buds. When forecasts call for a sudden freeze it is best to cover the plants, particularly any tender new buds.

Fertilization
Many people over-fertilize camellias. This results in the plants spreading their branches and developing an open growth habit that ruins the attractive compact appearance of the shrub. Beginning in the second season apply 8 to 16 oz. of cottonseed meal to each plant, or use a small amount of fertilizer formulated for camellias. Specially formulated fertilizers are available in most garden centers and discount stores. They acidify the soil and feed the plant, but they should be used sparingly.

Pruning and Disbudding
Most camellias need only occasional light pruning. After the plants bloom and before new buds form, check for dead wood to be removed and trim back where plants are losing their compact form. Look for areas of dense growth where thinning inside limbs will improve air circulation.
Gardeners who wish to maximize the size and beauty of camellia blooms may disbud a camellia, removing all but one bud on each terminal branch. This allows the plant to concentrate its resources on a select set of flowers.

Blooming
According to the Clemson University Cooperative Extension, the best time to plant camellias is from mid-October to mid-November and mid-March to mid-April. Camellia varieties bloom from fall through early spring. Early varieties, such as Pink Perfection, bloom in November, and late varieties, such as Betty Scheffield Supreme, bloom in April and May.

Three Reasons to Plant Flower Seeds in the Fall

2015-09-27T16:40:00.001-07:00

Did you know that fall is the best time to plant many wildflower and flower seeds for next spring? It’s true – if you want a beautiful patch of flowers for their scent, color or to attract pollinators, the best time to plant them is not next spring, but very soon – this fall.

Most wildflowers can (and should) be planted in the fall or early spring throughout many regions of the U.S. In the Southern and Western areas of the country the fall months of September through December are the most favorable time to plant wildflower seeds. In Northern and Northeastern regions seeds planted in the fall will remain dormant over the winter. Many varieties will quickly germinate in order to allow the seedling enough time to become established before going dormant for winter. Other varieties will just remain dormant within the soil until early spring. They will germinate and emerge in the spring when the conditions are favorable.

In the wild, as wildflowers bloom and ripen into seed all summer and into fall, the seed simply falls to the ground and is "planted". Of course, in general, Mother Nature has unlimited wildflower seeds to sow. In the wild all kinds of things happen; Seed falls on rocks, on other plants, etc., and never reaches the soil. This is the price a wild-sown seed pays, and billions are lost each fall.
When a wildflower gardener tries to emulate this process, we do all we can to "help nature along." That means, we clear the area, open the ground, provide good seed-to-soil contact for every seed, water if necessary, and do anything else to assure our seeding's success. It's easy and the work is the same as required for a spring planting. In fact, some people think fall planting is easier.

1. Fall Planting Results in Earlier Blooms

Like fall-seeded lawns, fall-planted wildflower seed has a chance to "settle" into your site during the winter, and is ready to burst into growth in early spring. This is why fall-planted wildflower seed is up and in bloom about two weeks earlier than spring-planted seed.

2. There is More Time to Plant in Fall

Every fall-planting advocate mentions it. In the fall, the gardener has far more time to get work done for two reasons. First of all, there is a longer period and far more "good days" for planting in the fall than during the tricky weather in spring. Secondly, the gardener always has more time during the fall than during the spring rush to get everything done after winter. (Many wildgardeners combine wildflower seed planting with fall bulb planting, and that's always a good idea. The times for both are identical.)

3. Easier Weed Control

With a fall planting, the weeds that do grow up in your flowers are easily removed when they appear as small plants along with your wildflower seedlings in spring.

How To Plant Wildflowers in the Fall

The actual planting of your seed in fall is the same as it is in spring, except the weather is usually better and you can choose the time.

Choose your site and best planting time. Full sun is best, and a "border area" between lawn and woods or a more natural area is perfect. Planting should be done AFTER a killing frost in your area, or after you're quite sure the growing season has ended, and your seed won't sprout until spring. In heavy winter areas, that means from late September or October up until the ground freezes. (If you don't have much frost in your area, you should plant just before your rainiest season begins. South Florida plants annuals in the fall for winter bloom. Coastal areas on the Pacific can plant anytime during the late fall or winter.)
Clear the ground of existing growth (grass, weeds, roots, other plants in the area.) For small areas, this means turning the soil with a shovel, and then removing all the old growth. For larger areas, most wild gardeners use a rototiller. (If you don't own one, rental stores have them, or your local landscaper will be happy to help you.) If you till, till just deep enough to remove the old growth. Deep tilling tends to bring up more weed seed into the surface soil.
Spread the seed evenly over the bare soil. The best way to be sure it's even is to split your wildflower seed into two roughly equal parts in two buckets or cans. Then add a quantity of white builders sand (Use the clean sand used in children's' sandboxes) to each bucket and mix the seed well with the sand. Then take your first bucket of sand/seed mix, and hand-broadcast it evenly over your entire prepared site. Next, take the second half and do the same, walking in the reverse direction. This makes it almost impossible to leave bare spots in your seeding, and assures even distribution of the various wildflowers in the mix you're planting. The white sand not only makes the seed easier to sow, but it also shows up on the dirt, to show you "where you've been."
Don't cover the seed, just compress the whole area. Once your seed is sown, it's important to "squash" the seed into the loose, bare soil. To do this for small areas, just walk over it, and your footprints will do it. Just make sure you compress the entire area. (Kids love to help with this.) For medium sized areas, we often lay down a piece of plywood, and jump on it. For larger areas, a lawn roller is the best. Even without being filled with water, they do a perfect job of "putting your seeding to bed for the winter."
That's it. Do not cover, and forget the birds if they arrive. Once your seed is compressed on the surface of the soil, you're finished. Do not cover it, Do not rake it. Leave peat moss and especially hay OUT of this project. They're not needed. In fact, even though hay is sometimes put on newly-seeded lawns, don't do that to your wildflowers. Hay is full of weed seed, and remember, you're not going to mow what comes up here, as you would a lawn. If you've planted a slope, you can put down WEED-FREE straw if you can get it to prevent erosion during the winter. But if you've compressed the soil well, most inclined sites will be just fine through the winter.
Birds may arrive and begin pecking at (yes, eating) your seed. It that happens, don't worry. It almost always happens to our plantings, and even if it's a flock, they are never able to eat enough to put a dent in the meadow results.

What to Expect in Spring

When the weather warms in spring, you'll notice your seed sprouting early, just like fall-planted grass seed. Usually, you won't have to water, since spring weather is almost always wet enough. But if you suddenly see your little seedling area dry out, water immediately. No matter when you plant, your wildflower plants are the most vulnerable when they're very young.

Normally, they'll be just fine and bloom should begin in as little as 5 weeks after you see the first seedlings. (Some wildflowers bloom very quickly.) Pull unwanted weeds as they appear, and as the spring and summer weeks go by, you'll see more and more species, and more and more color appear in your meadow. By July, you'll be taking in armloads of cut flowers, and giving bouquets to friends. That's the great joy of a wildflower planting.

Information retrieved from these sites:

http://www.underwoodgardens.com/slide-gardening-tips

http://www.americanmeadows.com/fall-planting-is-best

The 10 Best Perennials to Plant for Fall

2015-08-25T22:01:00.001-07:00

10 favorite perennial flowers

These unfussy, long-lived plants pump out beautiful foliage and flowers year after year. Plant in fall or spring when cooler temperatures help them get a healthy start

1. Pineapple sage (salvia elegans)

At its best in fall when it sends up spikes of vivid red flowers, this salvia’s foliage smells like ripe pineapples. The plant grows 4 feet tall. S.e. ‘Golden Delicious’ grows 1- to 3 feet tall with fire-engine red blooms and chartreuse leaves.

2. Penstemon (P. gloxinioides)

These bushy plants are fairly short lived, but to make up for it, they produce lots of trumpet-shaped blooms over a long period.
Deep purple ‘Midnight’ and scarlet ‘Firebird’ are standouts for their vivid, south-of-the-border colors. Pink and white ‘Appleblossom’ looks fresh and springlike.

3. Alstroemeria (Peruvian lily)

Flowers of the evergreen hybrids come in shades of purple with dark flecks and last well in bouquets. Alstroemeria aurea blooms come in shades of yellow and orange.
The 2-to 3-foot tall plants produce flowering shoots as long as the soil doesn’t get too hot. (Twist the shoot off at the base to keep them coming).

4. Aster x frikartii

Delicate-looking flowers on ultra-tough plants tolerate just about any soil type. ‘Mönch’ grows to 2 feet-tall and pumps out 2 1/2-inch lavender-blue flowers almost all year if spent ones are removed. ‘Wonder of Staffa’ is another favorite with lavender blue blossoms.

5. Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii)

Loose spikes of lavender-blue flowers cover the soft, silvery-green mounds in late spring and early summer. As soon as blossoms fade, shear plants back by half, or cut faded flower stems to the ground to encourage rebloom. Plants (to 1 foot tall) make attractive, informal hedges.

6. Geum chiloense

Tall flower spikes grow from mounds of velvety foliage to 15 inches high, 2 feet wide. ‘Lady Stratheden’ has clear yellow blooms; ‘Mrs Bradshaw’ has double scarlet blooms. Both have a delicate wildflower look.

7. Jerusalem sage (Phlomis fruticosa)

Tall stems of these Mediterranean natives are set with widely-spaced, hooded yellow flowers. Moisture-conserving thick, typically furry or hairy leaves are lance-shaped. Pretty planted with lavender and red hot poker (Kniphofia ‘Bressingham Comet’).

8. Lavender

Every garden should have one of these beauties. English lavender is the most fragrant, but Spanish lavender’s deep purple “rabbit ears” stand out in garden beds. Where space is tight, grow a compact form; one we can’t wait to try is Lavandula angustifolia ‘Thumbelina Leigh’, coming late this year from High Country Gardens. It stays 12 to 15 inches tall.

9. Coneflower (Echinacea)

Colorful and super tough, ‘Ruby Star’ from Monrovia nurseries has large pinkish-purple blooms with pronounced coppery centers. The plant grows 2-feet tall; the flowers are 4 inches across. Among the many showy hybrids are ‘Orange Meadowbrite’, butter-yellow ‘Sunrise’, and reddish-orange ‘Sundown’.

10. Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica)

Must-haves for lightly shaded woodland gardens, these much-loved plants bear tiny but exquisite blue flowers in spring in mild climates. ‘Baby Blue’, a hybrid from Proven Winners, has true blue flowers and grows 6 to 8 inches tall.

hashtags#fall #flowers #perennials #plants #cool plants #trees #gardens #cottage gardens#