The Ladakhi Trekking Guide

2008-05-21T08:13:00.001-07:00

Jullay!!

I am Thinlas Chorol from Takmachik in the Sham region of Ladakh. I love being out in the mountains, trekking and climbing. I can guide you on anything from a simple easy village-to-village trek where you can stay and eat in village homes, to an attempt on one of Ladakh’s Himalayan mountain peaks.

I am the only Ladakhi woman who is trained to work in this field. Although Ladakhi society strongly discourages women from independent work like this, I prefer this to any other kind of work. I have been doing this kind of work in Ladakh for the past four years.

I have completed the Mountaineering Course at NIM (Nehru Institute of Mountaineering) in Uttaranchal, India, and the Advanced Mountaineering course at NIM in May 2008, and a Mountaineering course with NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School, of USA) in April 2008.

Contact me Thinlas Chorol via email phinlas [at] rediffmail.com or contact me on +91 0946915037

Update July 2009
I have started my own company called the

Ladakhi Women's Travel Company
Ph: +91(0) 1982 250973
Mob. +91 09622963730
E-mail: ladakhiwomenstc @gmail.com
Address: Shop number 14, Zangsti Complex Leh, Ladakh
www.ladakhiwomenstravel.com

VILLAGE TO VILLAGE HOME STAY TREK

If you prefer a trek that lets you see into the real life of Ladakhi farmers in villages at 3500 m altitude, let’s do a home-stay trek.

You will stay in guest rooms of houses in remote villages that you reach by walking -- you can plan with me whether you want short walking days or longer days. You will eat food prepared by the farmer’s families.

Homestay in Takmachik:

Our guide, translator and ambassador, Thinlas Chorol, is a graduate of SECMOL and Ladakh’s only female trekking guide. She is a pioneer and extremely knowledgeable. She arranged for our extended home-stay in her village, Takmachik. This was the first time that Takmachik had overnight visitors.

With much sadness, we left our home-stays after four nights. However, everyone was excited to be back with the gang at SECMOL. It kinda feels like home. We stopped at Alchi Gompa on the way – it is one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh, as well as one of the few containing Kashmiri-influenced, as opposed to Tibetan Buddhist, art.

I can plan any lengthy or difficulty of treks for you, such as:

SHAM TREK (Likir monastery and village to Tingmosgang, 4 days, or shorter or longer)
HEMIS NATIONAL PARK / STOK-LA PASS (Spituk or Zhingchen to Stok via Rumbak, with a nature walk day in the middle if you like, 2-3 days)
MARKHA VALLEY TREK (one week in Hemis National Park)
MOUNTAINEERING AND MORE STRENUOUS TREKS

I can plan any tougher trek's or mountaineering expedition's with you individually.

Contact me Thinlas Chorol

Ladakhi Women's Travel Company
Ph: +91(0) 1982 250973
Mob. +91 09622963730
E-mail: ladakhiwomenstc @gmail.com
Address: Shop number 14, Zangsti Complex Leh, Ladakh

Jullay

Thinlas Chorol

The Putney Group experience in ladakh

2008-05-21T08:12:00.001-07:00

Experiences of the Puteny Group

Ju-le!!

Greetings family and friends! We have returned to SECMOL’s campus after our big adventure in the Sham region of Ladakh.

The day before heading out for the trek, we visited the Snow Leopard Conservancy in Leh. The SLC works with high-altitude villages who cohabitate with large predators such as snow leopards (shen) and Tibetan wolves (shangku). The students learned the importance of these species to the balance of the ecosystem and how the SLC is working with villages to predator-proof livestock enclosures and implement educational, conservation and eco-tourism programs.

Then, off to Leh Palace. This palace was built hundreds of years ago and is a prototype for the Potala Palace in Lhasa. It is a maze of corridors and stairwells and hidden rooms. There are also some beautiful murals on some of the walls. We opted out of a game of hide-and-seek, although it would have been a challenge.

Next, we went up to the Shanti Stupa. The stupa was donated by a Japanese Buddhist organization and is located high on a hill overlooking Leh. Nice spot for the end of the evening.

Before heading out for the trek, each student received a dZi-stone necklace for protection. dZi-stones are a traditional Tibetan amulet that are supposed to be tears from the sky dragon that have fallen to Earth and become stone. They have markings that look like eyes. These eyes watch out for the wearer and protect them. We had these necklaces custom-made at the Tibetan market in Leh, and then surprised the students with them on the eve of the trek.

Day 1: We head out to the Sham region, west of Leh. Ang village: our first home-stay. Lots of funny stories in the morning, mostly consisting of miscommunication. This will become a recurrent theme.

Day 2: First big hiking day! We had to climb over two passes, putting prayer flags on each. Ki Ki So So Lhar Gyello! It was a rough day, but all of us pushed on to Hemis Shukpachan. (Which is a good thing, since we don’t know how to perform a sky burial. Yet. Actually, perhaps that should not be in the blog.)

Day 3: We set out from Hemis Shukpachan after breakfast for Uley Phoo, the highest village along our route. After ascending a third pass, we reached Uley Phoo (13,000 + feet) at the end of a long uphill climb. The village, comprised of 7 houses, greeted us at the school and had prepared a delicious meal to revive our tired bodies. We spent a few hours hanging out with the villagers, dancing, throwing the Frisbee, and drinking more sweet tea (cha ngarmo) and the infamous salty butter tea (cha khante) before retiring to our home-stays for the night. Some girls had the pleasure of using the solar-heated showers, while Drew and a couple boys rustled up enough energy for an evening hike.

Day 4: In the morning we woke up to rain and overcast skies. We headed back down the mountain along a new route which took us through narrow canyons which provided welcome shade once the sky cleared. First stop was Rizgong Monastery, which is hidden behind canyon walls like the folds of a monk’s robes. Then we visited the Chulichan Nunnery, which was started by the founder of Rizgong for his wife. It is one of a few nunneries in Ladakh. After that, we hiked down to our tent-camp “eco-resort”, which had glorious solar showers for all. To the students’ dismay, there were sit-down flushing toilets, of which they lamented the wasted water and yearned for the chance to once again squat on traditional Ladakhi dry-composting toilets. The night ended with a bizarre dinner buffet smorgasboard of Tibetan, Indian, Chinese, and Moosewood Cookbook food. We had great conversations, discovered each others’ dreams, and somehow ended up in a euchre tournament.

Homestay in Takmachik:

We worked in the fields, picking apricots and hauling barley. Many of us slept on rooftops, just like the Ladakhi do in the summertime. We visited a local school where we taught English and exchanged songs. One afternoon we went to a spring-fed pool, which led to the inevitable water fight. Another afternoon we hiked up a narrow, twisting canyon to the summer pastures. And there was a fine day when a student* dropped his roll of toilet paper down the hole of a Ladakhi compost toilet. Since it was his only roll, and because the village shop did not carry such things, he decided to retrieve it. Now, Ladakhi toilets have two stories (actually, they have plenty more than that. Oh, I digress.) Anyway, the top floor is for use, and the bottom floor is the collection point for the fertilizer. Enlisting the help of a friend, the student ventured through the door to the lower level. Imagine their surprise when they came face-to-face with a goat. And not just one – but a small herd! Peering into the darkness, they spot their treasure. Just like Indiana Jones, they dashed inside, scooped the precious TP, and escaped out the door. Think about that the next time you sit down on the porcelain throne and find the TP holder empty.

* = name withheld to protect the guilty

Francesca and Drew, aka Chezga (ginger) and Shangku (wolf)

FRANCESCA NICOSIA

DREW SCHENCK:Drew worked for SECMOL, the NGO that is the focus of the Global Action India program, in Ladakh during its founding years. With SECMOL he helped to build a school and taught English.

Trekking tips and ladakh Map

2007-09-18T19:56:00.000-07:00

Trekking Tips

For trekking in Ladakh to be a rewarding experience, it is not enough to be physically fit. Trekkers must also be prepared to face the rigours of back country travel. Ladakh experiences considerable fluctuations in the day and night temperatures, even during the height of summer. While the days are pretty warm, even hot, due to the desert effect of the landscape, the evenings can become quite chilly, requiring additional clothing. It is, therefore, advisable to keep a pullover and/ or an anorak or jacket handy. A sturdy pair of walking shoes with strong rubber or synthetic soles for grip, thick cotton socks (woolen for late autumn treks or glacier walks) and a good sleeping bag along with an insulated ground pad are essential gear for going on a trek. In case of trekking across mountain passes or trans-mountain traverses, a waterproof tent will have to be carried along, besides provisions and cooking equipment, all back- packed in a good quality rucksack. Such treks should, however, be undertaken in groups and accompanied with a good trekking guide. Additional requirements could include a woollen balaclava, woolen undergarments, wind parkas etc. Toiletries and first-aid kits should include lip salve, moisturisers and sun cream, water purifying tablets, medicines for high altitude sickness, etc. A good quality water canteen is a must to carry drinking water so essential during high altitude trekking in arid conditions. And lastly, do not forget to carry a flash light with sufficient spare batteries, a sun-hat and a pair of good quality sunglasses with sufficient filter-factor to check the sun's brightness and ultraviolet rays.

These are fairly simple things to do or keep in mind that can really help to make your time in India more enjoyable and make you a more culturally sensitive traveler.

Packing hints

1) Packing hints: Culturally appropriate clothing. What does this mean?

Clothing

When you are packing for this program it is really important that you bring clothes that will be both comfortable and suitable to the locations we are going to.
For females this means loose fitting shirts that have sleeves at least the length of a usual t-shirt. Shirts that have spaghetti straps, are sleeveless, tight-fitting, or mid-riff baring are not appropriate and can lead to troubles that can almost certainly be avoided by more conservative dress. If you wear pants that have a low-waist line you need to have shirts long enough to cover your mid-riff. If you wear a skirt, it should be at least to your knees.

For Males it is best to have pants and shirts with short sleeves as well. Local men in India almost never wear shorts and if you wear them it will set you apart in a way that is not helpful.

For all : It is important that your clothes be clean (no holes, stains, etc.).

In Ladakh you will want some warm clothes, and you’ll probably want a pair of nylon, lined sweats for trekking or doing yoga too. (You can buy warm, used clothes inexpensively in Ladakh and you might want to just plan on bringing an extra $20-$25 US to buy a winter jacket and extra layers as warm clothes are bulky to carry around).

Jeans are not always the best traveling pants for India, but some of the fall brought them and found having a pair to be useful, so you might want to consider this. A variety of cotton pants can be bought easily and inexpensively in India. Jeans are available too, but it might be hard to find styles you like, so if you have a favorite pair of jeans or parachute pants, bring ‘em along.

Remember that having a light weight long sleeved shirt or two to wear in the warmer regions during the dusk to dawn phase when malarial mosquitoes may be around is important.

If you don’t have clothes that meet these criteria…. go buy some or bring money to get some as soon as we arrive. Your clothes are a huge part of the first impression you will make on people and in some cases will determine how you will be treated. The culturally sensitive clothing issue is especially important, please don’t arrive in India with a backpack full of tight-fitting t-shirts or short skirts as this really makes a bad impression and is also very likely to lead to harassment.

Basic Ladakhi Phrases

Introducing oneself:

Hello, goodbye, thank you : Julley (Djulay)
How are you ? : Khamzang le ? (kamzanque lay)
I am well : Khamzang in le (kamzanque ine lay)
What is your name ? : Nyerangi ming chi in le ? (niayrangui mingue tchi ine lay)
My name is : Nge ming le (nguay mingue lay)
Where do you come from? : Nyerang kane in le ?
I come from Belgium : Nga Belgium ne in le
I understand : Hago le !
I do not understand : Hamago le

On the road:

Where are you going ? : Karu skyodat le ? (karou skiodate lay ?)
I am going to Leh : Nga Leh a chaat le (nga lay a tchaat lay)
I am hot : Tsante rak (tsantay rak)
I am cold : Tangmo mi rak
I am tired : Ngalte rak (ngaltay rak)
I am ill : Zumo rak (zoumo rak)
How much is it ? : Tsam in le ?
Ladakh is beautiful : Ladakh ma demo duk (Ladak ma daymo douk)

In the home:

If you are invited to drink tea, or to eat in the home of a Ladhaki, always remove your shoes before going into the main room, and sit cross-legged in the place that your host indicates. It is considered impolite to accept enthusiastically that which is offered. So, always refuse (“man le”) the first offer – then accept the subsequent offer, but insist that you only want a little (“tsapik”).

Come on : Skyot le ! (squiote lay)
Sit down : Zhuks le ! (joukse lay)
Drink, eat : Don le ! (done lay)
A little : Tsapik
No, thank you : Man, Julley (mane Djoulay)
I am full / I have eaten enough : Dankste rak le ! (dankstay rak lay)
It is delicious : Zhimpo rak ! (jimepo rak)
May I have : Thobina le ?
Tea with butter : Gurgur cha (goure goure tcha)
Water : Chu (tchou)
Boiled water : Chu skol (tchou skole)
Bread : Tagi (tagui)
Rice : Das (dasse)

Family ties :

Rather than using given names or ( Mister ) and ( Missus ), Ladakhis use ( family ties ) to address each other. In this way, one establishes one's position in relation to the person with whom one is speaking.

Be careful to avoid mistakes – don't forget the respectful suffix “le” (“lay”).
When speaking to a little girl ( little sister ) : Nomo (le)
When speaking to a little boy ( little brother ) : Nono (le)
When speaking to a girl or woman of one's own age ( big sister ) : Ache le (atchaylay)
When speaking to a boy or man of one's own age ( big brother ) : Acho le (atcholay)
When speaking to an older woman (aunt) or ( grandmother ) : Ane le (anaylay or abilay)
When speaking to an older man (uncle) or ( grandfather ) : Ajang (le), or, mémé lé (ajanglay or maymaylay)
When speaking to a monk, use ( Gelong ) (gaylong)