Diary of An Ordinary Traveller

Grüß dich! Why You Need to Visit Bavaria

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 04 Feb 2017 04:38:00 +0000

View from the Zugspietz

I can honestly say that the amazing little spot of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Gasthof Fraundorfer in the south of Germany was a huge highlight of my entire trip to central Europe and possibly anywhere! If you ever get the chance to visit this part of the world I can guarantee that you won't be disappointed with this wonderful, authentic Bavarian Guesthouse. The Guesthouse is a family run

Gasthof Fraundorfer

establishment owned by Maria, the matriarch, and her daughter, Barbara, and is a popular spot amongst both locals and tourists. I spent two nights here while I explored the amazing surrounding countryside and hiking around the local mountains.

After traipsing around several countries and cities for many days I decided I needed a little down time away from the crowds of the cities of this part of Europe so instead of stopping in Munich I transferred trains, after travelling from Salzburg, and headed to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (I still can't actually pronounce this). I met a woman and her son who had lived on an American military base in the area for the past five years or so and were getting ready to return to the states. Shockingly they knew very little about the area and admitted that they spent most of their time stationed here on the base and socializing with other military families!

Since this is a rather small town/city I was forced to take a taxi to the Guesthouse and once again felt the sting of this rather unscrupulous method of transport.

My angst was quickly dispelled though when I arrived at the Guesthouse and took in the amazing surroundings. Everywhere I walked I saw wonderful buildings like those you only imagine in stories such as Hansel and Gretel with a backdrop of the most stunning snowcapped peaks. After depositing my bags in my room (which reminded me of high end cottages up in ski country) I headed out to the patio to partake in that great Bavarian (and Canadian) beverage, a beer!

Bavaria

Bavaria is a German state in the south of Germany rich in culture and history. Bavarians pride themselves on their traditions which shows in their unique dialogue, food, and clothing. The town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a mecca for avid hikers and ski aficionados as it is surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the Alps offering some of the most amazing panoramic views I've ever witnessed.

Hiking

After finishing my beer I couldn't wait to traipse through the town and was thrilled when a few turns took me to the start of some mountain trails. I spent a couple of hours hiking upwards and admiring the amazing scenery before wandering through the town again. I seriously felt like I was in the middle of a movie set as I walked past houses decorated with bright colours and adorned with window boxes full of flowers.

I headed back to my Guesthouse and settled down on the outdoor patio for a delicious dinner of schnitzel and a beer (when in Rome)!
I struck up a conversation with a woman from Finland who had lost her mother a few months previously. She told me that she and her mother had been travelling around Europe visiting castles as this was a particular passion. This was her first trip on her own and she had driven all the way to Bavaria as the area offers some extraordinary castle experiences. I'm not a huge castle fan but I love hearing about the passions that motivate other travellers. As we were talking, a band of Bavarian musicians and three boys, all dressed in traditional clothing, came out and entertained us with some music and dance.

Best View I've Ever Seen

The next morning I was determined

to find my way to the Zugspietz. At nearly 3000 metres above sea level, the Zugspitze is the highest mountain in Germany and boasts three glaciers. At the top the visitor is treated to extensive views of over 400 mountain peaks in four countries. Even after extensive research I was still a bit uncertain about how to reach my destination so I was very happy to meet up with my dinner companion of the night before at breakfast who then offered to drive my to Eibsee at the base of the mountain. Upon my arrival I joined a very small queue and opted to purchase the Garmisch-Classic ticket which was a bit pricey but would mean I could take an aerial cable car to the summit, a rack and pinion railway down and then travel on a cogwheel train to the base of the Alpspitze where I could take another cable car to the top. Luckily, it was a beautiful day and I was absolutely stunned by

the views from both peaks. While taking a ridiculous number of pictures at the Zugspietz I noticed a couple trying to take a selfie with the amazing backdrop and asked if they would like me to take their picture. Later, I again met up with the same couple as we shared a car for the forty minute ride down. This newlywed couple were from the middle east and were celebrating the completion of the wife's nursing program. Dressed in a niqab she seemed a bit reluctant to speak to me at first but eventually became more relaxed and I had a wonderful conversation about his work as an engineer and her work as a nurse. Once again, on this trip, I felt like the best way to become less afraid of our fellow occupants on this great planet is to just get out there and meet people!

I really thought my day couldn't get any better but when I reached the top of the Alpspitze I realized it could! I stopped for a little lunch at the restaurant and then noticed a couple of fellows getting ready to wind surf off the mountain so I sat down with a group of visitors to watch them take off. I then decided to start hiking down the mountain instead of using the cable car. I figured since this was going to be downhill it would be a lot

Best Strudel ever!

easier then the Inca Trail and I was right. The scenery was stunning and I was very excited when, after a couple of hours, I came to a wonderful chalet restaurant (Adolf Zoeppritz Haus) and decided to indulge a little in an authentic piece of Streusel (I figured I deserved this after all the hiking I had done that day). This piece of food heaven is probably the best thing I have ever eaten, and as I write this I am salivating!

Ein Prosit!

I did eventually make it back to my Guesthouse by taking a handy bus that showed up right at the base. I showed the driver my map and pointed where I needed to go and when he nodded, I figured all was good. I headed up to my room for a well deserved rest.

When I headed back down to the restaurant I was surprised to see it jammed - apparently this is a hotspot for the day tourist bus trips from Munich! Maria sat me down at a table with a group of older local gentlemen, all dressed in Bavarian traditional clothing, who were friends of her late husbands and continued to meet weekly.

The next five hours or so were a blur of Bavarian music, beer, and numerous shots of god knows what as my dinner companions decided they were going to show the Canadian visitor that Bavarians are the most hospitable people around! I do know that no one would let me buy a drink and the fact that none of these fellows could speak English (and I can't speak Bavarian) the conversation never lagged! After the crowds had dispersed, and the doors were locked, the hostesses of the guesthouse both joined us for a few more bevvies.

At some point, after complaining that my sinuses seemed to be quite stuffy after my ascent to the clouds earlier in the day, one of the old fellows surreptitiously took a little tin can from his pocket and carefully poured a line of brown looking powder along the back of my hand and indicated that I should breathe it into my nostrils. I was assured by my hostesses that the substance was not some nefarious contraband but was indeed snuff (finally ground tobacco)...I'm not sure how this was meant to alleviate my sinuses....

Obviously, I was not feeling particularly spritely the next morning and was relieved that one of the group from the previous evening, an American ex-patriot, ex-military fellow met me at breakfast and offered a ride to the train station...I was more than happy to accept!

Fun Fact: Garmisch-Partenkirchen was the site of the 1936 Winter Olympics infamously known as the Nazi Olympics.

Fun Fact: The Zugspietz peak is a boarder between Germany and Austria and at one time you had to show your passport to wander around the summit.

Just a few of the great people who I met!

Mozart and Maria or Visiting Salzburg

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sun, 25 Sep 2016 05:00:00 +0000

Salzburg

Mozart Museum

The good people of Salzburg would prefer that this small city be visited for the music of Mozart, the castle fortress and the panoramic gardens rather than one of the most famous Hollywood movies ever made. So much so, that not one spot in the city is recognized by a sign or plaque - in fact, there is no mention at all of the connection to the multiple Oscar winning, blockbuster, timeless, iconic film! But Sound of Music fans (and non fans) flock to the city to have a chance to relive some of the moments...I admit, this was my main motivation! It's a very touristy thing to do to get all excited about running around the fountain where Julie Andrews belted out Do Re Mi, but heck, I am a tourist!

I arrived in Salzburg in mid afternoon and took a very short bus ride from the train station to Miraplatz Gardens where I had booked a room at the Miraplatz Hotel. I chose this locale since it was conveniently located right next to the park where I was hoping to be in time for a 4:30 Fraulien Maria bike tour. Apparently, the hotel, which I had carefully researched, had overbooked and randomly chose some other abode to which to send me. The Hotel Mozart was a few blocks in the wrong direction and being rather hot and tired, I was none too gracious about this change of plans! They did give me a Salzburg card worth about 23 Euro which was good for all public transit and entrance to many attractions but that didn't make me feel better as I headed down the street to find my new hotel. I was greeted at the desk by a very friendly gentleman who probably realized I was pretty cranky so he offered me a drink and quickly got me checked in. I basically had to drop my bag and head back the way I came if I was going to join the Bike Tour.

I made it with time to spare! The group was small, which is always nice, and consisted of seven Americans, myself and Leo, our guide. Leo was a great laugh, even though he looked like he had spent the previous evening partying and had just barely managed to roll out of bed! We spent the next three hours or so riding around Salzburg and the outlying area while Leo entertained us with his singing, stories and comments about the world famous movie.

Fountain from SOM

Apparently, the city fathers weren't impressed when the production company hung Nazi flags without informing officials and the whole project was nearly ended. Rumour had it that Christopher Plummer, a Shakespearean trained actor (and a fellow Canadian), wasn't too thrilled with this movie and spent his time between filming, imbibing in various alcoholic beverages and playing piano at his hotel. The glassy eyed look when he sings Edelweiss in the final scenes was probably due more to the effects of vodka rather than acting skill! Leo told us that to keep the actress who played Gretal happy, she was fed chocolate pretzels to such an extent that she put on a few pounds over the course of filming, so much so that the gallant Mr. Plummer refused to carry the chunky monkey in the final scene climbing across the Alps. A slimmer

Pegasus fountain.

stunt double was used! Poor Gretal (or whatever her name is) was also the victim of a near drowning during the lake boating scene. Julie Andrews had been told that the little girl couldn't swim and so when the boat tipped she needed to grab the pint sized actress and carry her to safety (so much for child labour laws in the sixties!) Apparently this worked for the first four times the scene was filmed but on the fifth shot, Julie accidentally fell backwards and was unable to rescue Gretal. If you watch the scene again, you can see the chunky monkey go headfirst into the water with just her legs sticking out. She was pulled out by one of the older children but had swallowed enough water to cause her to vomit...could have been all the chocolate pretzels!

Locale of the outdoor house filming of Sound of Music

We spent the day listening to SOM tunes as we rode through Salzburg visiting various locales including the abbey, the graveyard, the fountain and stairs at Miraplatz, the house used for

Gate in front of the house used for filming SOM.

filming, the house used for outdoor scenes, the famous gazebo and other scenic areas. Apparently, some fanatical fans (yes, there are fanatical fans of SOM) are disillusioned to find out that almost all indoor scenes were filmed in Holywood. In fact, even the famous gazebo was recreated in Holywood in larger form to accommodate the famous I Am Sixteen dance! Really people, this was a movie very loosely based on real events...not reality! There are many tours for SOM in Salzburg but I think the bike tour is great if you want to take a very pleasant ride through the city and outlying park areas and only want to spend a few hours doing so.

Great bike tour!

The iconic Gazebo of SOM.

Graveyard in which escape scenes of SOM were filmed.

Leo, who looked like a man that enjoyed a night out, recommended a beer garden called Die Wiesse which was conveniently located near my hotel. This establishment was quite a distance from the whole touristy area near the fortress and seemed to be very popular amongst locals. At a beer garden you will likely be sitting with others and I had the company of a local couple who, although having limited English, tried their best to speak with me and keep me company. The gentleman told me I must have a minimum of two beers which I obliged while wolfing down a plate of Klacken, a traditional Austrian/Bavarian dish which I think of as Mac and Cheese of steroids.

Klacken

The next day was spent using my Salzburg card to visit the sites that are recommended by the locals - the Fortress and a Mozart museum. I also managed to wander into the middle of some crazy Bavarian parade with hundreds of people dressed in traditional clothing. A final stroll through the gardens where you can enjoy orchestras filling the space with tunes from the favourite son, Mozart. All in all, a pleasant morning but I must be honest - my favourite part of Salzburg was the whole Sound of Music thing! I felt like a kid riding my bike through paths and parks with Do Re Mi playing away...all I was missing was my green floral dress made from drapes and Fraulien Maria guiding the way - but I did have Leo!

Miraplatz Gardens

View of Salzburg from the Castle

Castle

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly in Budapest

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sun, 10 Jul 2016 20:12:00 +0000

So Budapest has been both the best part of my trip so far and the worst!

Reasons I Loved Budapest

1. Great company on my overnight train from Kraków. I shared a beer and some great chat with Christis and her boyfriend Adam from Manchester and Nura from India. I was kept awake a bit by six skowser lads in the cabin next to us who were drinking and singing until the wee hours. But they actually were really good singers and their renditions of American Pie, Eleanor Rigby and other favourites kept me waiting for more. Important rule: if you are going to drink and keep everyone up on an overnight train, you better at least be able to carry a tune!

2. Excellent free walking tour with Norbert! We visited all of the highlights of the Pest and Buda districts all while given an excellent and entertaining narrative by our guide. He even escorted a few of us back to a cafeteria where he said the tour guides and workers in the area eat and the food was authentic Hungarian. I am sure this is actually a place owned by the tour company or they at least get a kickback but I did really enjoy the food. Being basic cafeteria style, you are able to see everything and just point...it was all so tempting that I ended up ordering two dishes...stuffed cabbage and a Hungarian mushroom goulash with dumplings. Yummy!

Side Note: dumplings is the go to word in so many countries but means totally different things in different languages. In China, it is a large doughy bread ball stuffed with all sorts of tasty things; in Poland it is Pierogies; in Hungary it is little drops of dough which seem to have been boiled. I am interested to explore the wide world of dumplings even more!

Laura and Kieran

3. I met Kieran and Laura who were both studying law at Western in London, Ontario and doing internships with the WHO in Geneva. Well Laura was but I'm not sure what Kieran was up to exactly but something lawish I believe! They are in Europe for three months and are taking the opportunity to do as many weekend getaways as possible. We met on the walking tour and spent the day together discussing the state of world politics, best European places to travel and where to drink in Budapest! I spent the afternoon at Széchenyi Medicinal Bath with these two and had a great laugh. They invited me to join them that evening for a few shots at some of Budapest's famous Ruin Bars (yep, bars located in the ruins of buildings leftover from some of Hungary's struggles). Unfortunately, I was too tuckered from shopping for a camera to meet them! My beat memory of Budapest will be when Kieran broke the metro ticket machine with a load of people standing behind us. Kieran hit the help button but the voice at the other end wasn't exactly helpful and we were stuck there apologizing to a growing group of would be metro travellers!

Why Isn't Thhis Giving Me. Ticket!

4. Excellent, inexpensive and easy to navigate Metro system. I bought a twenty four hour pass for roughly $8 Can (1600 HUF, I think) and I made very good use of that bad boy! Fun Fact: Budapest is home to the oldest underground metro line in Continental Europe.

5. Széchenyi Medicinal Bath - This hot spring baths is a fantastic place to unwind, rest and relax after several days of walking and touring. The building itself is quite old and boasts endless rooms of hot spas, saunas and massage rooms while the centre is a huge pool area with three different large pools, a restaurant, stalls to purchase beer and other drinks, and a large space with very comfortable loungers. The pools and spas are fed from the natural hot springs which apparently lie beneath Budapest and are thought to have healing qualities. This is a hugely popular spot for locals as well as tourists and can be quite crowded, and even a little smelly, but it is definitely a must visit! (Cost 4700 HUF or $22 Can)

6. Beautiful scenery, old buildings and architecture!

Charles Bridge

Reasons I Hated Budapest

1. I learned that my LifeProof iPhone case wasn't really lifeproof when I forgot I had it tucked in my bathing suit and took a full dip in the naturally warmed waters of the Schenyi baths. This one is totally my fault and isn't at all a reflection on Budapest but unfortunately the loss of my phone and all of the photos taken on my trip thus far did put a damper on the day (pun intended!)

2. When Hungary finally gained autonomy from Russia in 1990, Budapest became the go to place for young, hip travellers but also western investors. Twenty five years later it is a magnate for the those seeking a place to party and drink, so by as early as 9pm the streets of the Old Town and other popular sectors are jammed with scantily dressed twenty something girls and very loud young men.

3. In a few short years Budapest has become a major tourist destination with the overpriced restaurants, tacky souvenirs and crowds that come with that honour. As usual, if the traveller seeks a more "authentic" Hungarian experience it would need to be somewhere other than Budapest!

St. Stephen's Church (his right hand is a holy relic on display here)

Salt Mines of Wieliczka - Don't Bother!

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 09 Jul 2016 12:31:00 +0000

I honestly do not understand why so many travel blogs recommend a visit to the Wielliczka Salt Mines.

I made it back to Kraków from Auschwitz by 3 pm so I figured I would have enough time to fit in a visit to the World Unesco Heritage site. I understand that they are quite large and were first used in the 13th century, and I do concede that the underground church is quite nice but let's be honest here...

The whole atmosphere is quite Disneyfied and rather disappointing. The guides wear strict looking uniforms which must be strangling vital body parts causing enough discomfort to result in rather severe and unwelcoming attitudes. The fellow I had, did not crack a smile once and recited a memorized script in a completely monotone voice. I swear he was more robot than man and I was tempted to see if he had one of those windy controls coming out of his back. The tour consisted of his uninspired description of the history of the mine and a series of tacky models which he would animate briefly for a few seconds as we walked by. To top it off they saddled this one guide with a group of at least fifty.

After two hours of this torture we made it to a restaurant/tacky souvenir sort of area and were told that we could carry on to the museum or get an elevator to the top. Well I for one couldn't wait to get out of there but the guide disappeared, and a few of us tried to navigate our way to the elevator. We kept getting stopped by guards (disguised as guides) who would yell at us in Polish as they herded us to join a group with a guide that seemed to be speaking Russian! We tried to explain that we were with the English group but our little wind up man had somehow deserted us. It didn't seem to matter...he just kept yelling at us to follow this new group. Finally we made it to a tiny little elevator and managed to get out of there!

This tour was absolutely not worth the 89PLN they had the nerve to charge. They even insist on an additional 10PLN for the privilege of taking photos!

There are so many better, and more inexpensive things to do in Kraków that I think I would have given it a miss even if it were free!

Why You Should Visit Auschwitz

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 09 Jul 2016 10:15:00 +0000

Sign Above the Entrance Gate at Auschwitz - Work Will Set You Free

My main destination for this trip was to visit Auschwitz and Birkenau. Many people asked me why I would want to visit the location of such a sad and tragic event - the murder of over one million people, most of whom were Jewish. I think it is important to remind ourselves of these horrific deeds that have been carried out in the name of religion, xenophobia or misguided national pride. Unfortunately, there are far too many examples of holocausts that have occuried even since the unthinkable events that took place at Auschwitz form 1941 - 1945. I am of the opinion that the current political climate of the world, unfortunately, seems to be repeating the mindset of politicians in the era leading up to WW II and the holocaust. When I listen to men such as Donald Trump, I feel that I am being transported back to 1933 listening to a fascist rally. Indeed, if you replace the word Muslim or refugee for Jewish in many of his speeches and you watch and listen to the reactions of his supporters, you could be listening to any speech given by Hitler in 1933 Germany.

Many people have questioned how such a wide scale, systematic near annihilation of a group of people could happen. The hatred and vitriol which led to this event was spread by fear and ignorance. The targeted group is accused of actions which somehow are hurting the "real" sons and daughters of the nation either through taking jobs, undermining the "true" culture, speaking a different language or committing horrendous crimes. It doesn't seem to matter if any of these claims are true or valid but only that they are repeated often and loudly so that the voting public has a cause to unite behind someone who will fight against the enemy. Incendiary rhetoric which has become the norm in the polarized political climate of 2016 is creating a culture of fear and hatred which, I would argue, could quite possibly lead to tragedies such as the holocaust.

Visiting places such as Auschwitz might help us to remember that awful things happen when we forget that real people - men, women, children - become the victims when we forget that we are all members of the human race despite differences in religion, skin colour or nationality.

OK, lecture over....

Getting to Auszhwitz Museum

Although many opt for tours to the museum of Auschwitz, it is possible (and very inexpensive) to do it yourself. Make your way to the bus station in Kraków, located behind the train station. Go to the ticket booth and ask for the next bus to Auszhwitz Museum ( Oswiecin in Polish). The trip took about one hour and 15 minutes. I paid 12 Zloty ($4 Canadian) for a one way ticket and was dropped at the back entrance from which it is a short 100 metre walk to the main entrance.

The museum is free but during the peak season individuals must join a group tour between the hours of 10 am and 3:30 pm and there is a cost. So if you want to avoid this you will need to time your arrival accordingly. I left Kraków on the 7:50 am train and made it to the entrance by 9:30 am. You still need to go to the white trailer booth and get a ticket but then you just go to the entrance where you will pass through a security check and walk right in.

The barracks are aligned in neat rows and as you walk along it is difficult to imagine that this was the scene of so much suffering. The buildings, however, have been converted into the repositories of the reminders that real people were housed, starved, beaten and killed within this compound. Since I arrived early I was able to walk through the buildings alone viewing photographs of victims, canisters of Zylon B poison, mounds of suitcases, glasses, brushes, shoes and most jarring, hair.

A free shuttle bus will take you to nearby Birkenau or Auschwitz II where you will really feel the scope and horror of the events. The rail lines where transports were brought to the camp runs up the middle. Prisoners were sorted into groups with those to the left being taken directly to the chambers for immediate gassing - this included about 80% of the those who passed the gates. The remains of row upon row of barracks remain at this site as a jarring visual reminder of man's inhumanity to man.

To return to Kraków you need to take the free shuttle back to Auschwitz I and then go to the stand next to the snack hut. There is a schedule posted and busses depart every 45 minutes for a cost of 14 Zloty. My bus driver seemed to take the slow route and stop about every 5 minutes so this portion of the trip took about two hours.

Birkenau

A Day in Kraków

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Wed, 06 Jul 2016 20:56:00 +0000

Hero's Square, Kraków

A random assortment of consonants making for similar looking street names, a stubborn refusal to wear glasses while reading a street map, and a phone nearly dead since my outlet adaptor was on the blink led to this very tired traveller getting somewhat lost for a while today and walking around what seemed like most of Kraków. I actually wasn't quite that lost, and with the aid of a few locals finally found my destination.

I started my morning out early with a trip down the street to find a store to buy a new adaptor but it wasn't quite open so I headed to the Old Town to join a Free Walking Tour. I love how cities all have an old town...maybe in a couple of hundred years my city of Hamilton will even have one! Free walking tours are a great way to make your money stretch in just about any city you visit in Europe and they are usually very good I find since the guide is relying on tips. I was lucky enough to join Calen, a Kraków native and history grad from the local university. As we walked along the Royal Route from Florianska Gate to Market Square to Wasal castle he kept us captivated with interesting historical narratives and a few of his own personal stories. We even made a stop at the former residence of Krakow's pride, Pope John Paul II.

Calen from the Free Walking Tour

At the end of the tour I headed back to find a charger and since my SIM card, which I was told by the woman in Prague would work anywhere in Europe, wasn't doing its SIMy thing at all I also bought a 2 gig card for Poland for 7 Zloty ($2.26 Canadian - crazy, isn't it! - yes we do pay ridiculous amounts for phones!) Next I headed off to a little Perogi shop that Calen had told me about and I knew I was in for a treat since it was definitely off the beaten track and there were only locals confidently ordering. Seven zloty later and I was tucking into a plateful of mixed little polish dumplings filled with a variety of tasty things. The only perogies I've had that were possibly comparable were made by the mother of my Polish friend back home!

I next headed for Schindler's factory, got lost along the way, faced a two hour line up so left to join Calen for a tour of the Jewish District, got lost again, and finally rewarded myself with a nice cold beer while I waited for the tour to begin. Once again Calen with the Free Walking Tour was outstanding. He guided us through the Jewish district where some 60,000 Individuals resided prior to WW II. After deportation to various Nazi camps some 16 000 were moved to the Jewish ghetto across the river in 1941 and by the end of 1943 all but 6000 of the Jewish population of Kraków had been murdered.

I met a brother and sister from Turkey on the tour, Nur and Kasat, and I had a great time chatting with them. We ended up walking back to the Market square in the Jewish District to end the day with a zapiekanki - a street food that is popular in Kraków among the younger folk and is usually eaten after leaving the bars in the early hours of the morning. Our hot dog carts could have some competition. Finally, I said goodbye to my new companions and headed back to my hotel to get some well needed rest before heading to Auschwitz tomorrow!

Bring on the Goulash and Beer or An Afternoon in Prague

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Tue, 05 Jul 2016 12:50:00 +0000

Waiting for my train in Prague.

I just had one of the best trains Atlantic flights I've ever taken thanks to a few tricks such as asking for a middle seat in a row of three, a non full plane, a mild sedative, and a glass of red wine. I was able to stretch out with my comfy pillow, blanket, eye mask and ear plugs and pretty much slept for the entire eight hour flight. The food wasn't really worth staying awake for as Air Transat has cut right back in this department only offering a hot sandwich and a piece of banana bread for breakfast.

Since I only had a carry on I beat everyone to customs wherethe bored looking official didn't ask me any questions and spent all of five seconds perusing my passport. I guess I don't look like much of a threat to Czeck security! I grabbed an airport express into the city for about $2 Canadian and had about three hours to spare before my train to Poland so I headed to the Main Street of Vaclavske Namesti.

Prague is full of some beautiful old architecture since it amazingly avoided the devastation of two world wars felt by other European cities. The main boulevard is busy with tourists and the usual restaurants and shops. My first stop was a Vodaphone store to buy a SIM card for my iPhone. A bit expensive at 36 euro for 1.5 Gigs of data but having data is a luxury I always like to have while travelling. Makes me feel a little safer if I can Google directions and being able to translate on the fly is handy!

Finally I sat down and was able to do the thing I was looking forward to the most for my trip to Europe - eat. I bypassed the McDonalds, the Burger King and the Starbucks and instead opted for a cafe with tables set up outside and ordered some goulash soup and a beer. The soup was slightly spicey and full of flavour and was served with a delicious hearty bread that I used to soak up the juices. The meal ended with a refreshing piece of watermelon and the whole thing cost about $8 Canadian. Can't wait to enjoy more food for the next nine days!

Goulash, Beer and Bread!

I am now sitting on a very bumpy train called the Leo Express which will take me to a town by the name of Ostrava-Svinov on the border of Poland where I will take a bus the rest of the way to Kraków.

Man it's been a long two days and I can't wait to reach a hotel where I can brush my teeth and have a shower!

Addendum: Just had a bit of excitement as the girl across from me just spilled her beer all over our shared table. We managed to quickly move all electronic devices while her boyfriend hunted for napkins or some other absorbent type thingy but the beer did seep through the table soaking my one and only pair of pants...sigh!

I nearly managed to sleep through my stop at Ostava but luckily the train jerking to a stop woke me up and I noticed the sign. I scrambled to grab my bag from the overhead and jumped off but thought I must have made a mistake as the place looked deserted and no one else was disembarking. The problem with travelling in a country where you don't know the language and few people speak English is that you are always in a bit of a state of uncertainty...I guess that's part of the rush. I showed my papers to the train guy and he motioned for me to get back on the train but then he looked at my papers again and quickly motioned me off just before the doors closed. I was the only one standing on a deserted platform besides two women who looked like they were cleaners but they had no clue what I was talking about when I asked for the Tiger Express bus to Kraków. So I made my way out of the station to the street and as I was just beginning to think I would be stuck in some Czeck border town, I saw the little Tiger Express van pull up and the driver had a clip board with my name on it! Next thing I knew I was hustled onto the van, handed a bottle of water and am now on the road to Kraków...hopefully!

How to Get From Hamilton to Pearson in Four Easy Steps

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Tue, 05 Jul 2016 12:36:00 +0000

It's been a couple of years since I attempted the trek to Toronto Pearson from Hamilton using public transport so I decided to give it another go. I've broken it down in a few easy steps.

1. Make your way to Aldershot Go Station ($0)

I keep waiting for that fabled day when the Go is running regular trains out of Hamilton to Union Station but that day hasn't arrived so alas, to get to Toronto by train you will need to make your way to Aldershot. Depending on your method of getting to the little hamlet this will take anywhere from fifteen or twenty minutes to an hour.

Option 1 - Taxi or an Uber (approximately $10 - $30 depending on where you live)

Option 2 - Get the Go bus from Hunter Street after taking city bus (city bus $2.25 and additional cost of Go bus approximately $5)

Option 3 - Convince your brother to drive you on his lunch hour ($0 and this could be any relative or friend if you don't have a brother!)

2. Aldershot to Union Station ($11.65)

I have only taken the Go train once or twice and although clean and convenient, it seemed painstakingly slow. We stopped at every station along the way and seemed to only make it to a cruising speed which would rival a speedy sloth...ok, maybe I'm exaggerating, but is did take over an hour to get to Union.

3. Union Station to Terminal 1 Pearson ($12)

I love the way Torontonians effortlessly glide through the maze of buildings and walkways after leaving the Go train whereas I look like some hick from the country dragging my suitcase along with a confused look on my face. Luckily, I managed to find a helpful info girl (girl really, as she didn't look much more than 18). She smiled at me pityingly, as I asked for directions. She told me to keep walking and to follow the UP signs to the skyway. I did take a little detour on the Young Subway line to meet my daughter for a quick lunch but I didn't dally as I still wasn't sure about the whole Airport Express thing. After locating and following a few UP signs, it occurred to me that this stood for Union Pearson (honestly, sometimes I'm not very clever). After about a ten minute walk I made it to the departure where I quickly purchased a ticket for $12 and joined a queue for the train. It departs every 15 minutes and is a very clean, comfortable spacious ride. After two short stops and 25 minutes we arrive at Terminal 1.

4. Terminal 1 to Terminal 3 ($0)

The UP only goes to Terminal 1 but there is a complimentary LINK train which seems to run every couple of minutes. After exiting the UP take a very short walk down the corridor and you will see signs for the LINK which runs on two tracks. The actual ride to Terminal 3 is about three minutes.

So to sum up, the whole trip takes anywhere from two to two and a half hours, costs anywhere from $22.65 - about $45, and can be an enjoyable afternoon! Not to mention avoiding the whole 403 and 401 parking lot scenario that you would need to endure if you drive!

One Night in Lima

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Mon, 04 Jul 2016 04:09:00 +0000

Painting bought at JFK Park in Lima

Our trip was winding up so we headed

Cruz del Sur bus.

back to Paracas via bus. Now when I say bus you might envision an old rickety rust bucket or even something like our local Hamilton Street Railway but I must say Cruz del Sur bus lines was better then most plane rides I've taken with Air Transit. The seats were large and cushiony, could recline so you are practically lying down, had an individual viewing screen with movies and other entertainment, and you are even served lunch!

Paracas bus station.

The bus station in Paracas was admittedly a bit on the shady side and I would recommend keeping a tight hand on your belongings. When I say bus station, I am really being generous, as it is really more of a shack kind of place with a few chairs and a small shop. We have a friend who visited Peru a few months before us and he had his bag stolen at this particular locale. When the taxi pulled up to this place the thought did cross my mind that maybe this particular driver was really part of some gang that was taking us to be robbed or kidnapped. I told the kids to stay in the car while I checked it out. Turned out it was the bus station and not a local crime depot.

We stayed at Casa Wayra B&B Miraflores and had one large room with a washroom for the four of us. We wanted to explore the city a bit so this economical choice, within walking distance to most of the highlights was perfect. We headed to John F. Kennedy Park where apparently hundreds of stray cats hang out and are fed by some locals. It is also known as cat park and is surrounded by many local artists selling their creations. Bobby and Sasha made a purchase and despite my best efforts I made little headway in trying to barter with the artist...might have had something to do with the fact that he was deaf!

Cat Park, Lima Peru

Larcomar Cliff

We took a walk along Larcomar cliff and stopped for drinks at a little Italian restaurant, La trattoria di Mambrino. Now Larcomar was seriously crowded, very touristy, and expensive. We wanted to try one of Lima's world re-knowned restaurants so I let Sasha choose. I ended up having the manager of La Trattoria call Rafael's so that I could secure a reservation which was pretty nervy but he was very gracious and kind. Restaurants such as Rafael's don't even open their doors until 8pm and although they were fully booked they agreed to set up a table in the bar area. I must say the decor and ambience were amazing and I had quite possibly the best food I have ever tasted at this meal! We even ordered dessert! Although one of the top restaurants in Lima (rated #13 of 50 best restaurants in Latin America), I didn't think the prices were that unreasonable. I have paid the same, if not more, at far inferior establishments in Toronto.

Delicious meal at Rafael's

We headed back to our room very happy, ready for a good nights sleep before our early departure at 6am. Unfortunately, a good nights rest was not in the cards. Sasha and Shelby had both ordered a lobster dish and at about 5 in the morning they were both in agony and running to the bathroom. The poor things were so sick I wondered if we would make it to the airport. We pumped them full of the handy stomach medication we had prescribed (glad I didn't waste our money on that) and tried to give them fluids but the trek to the bathroom continued. Finally, we didn't have a choice and we had to pack the two invalids into a cab for the gruesome thirty minute ride to the airport. We nearly made it without having to stop...but not quite. It really was a miserable way to end our trip but on the upside, the flight attendant did give us rows of seats to ourselves right near the lav!

Prettiest drinks ever at La Trattoria di Mambrino Larcomar Park, Lima Peru.

Paracas and the Ballesta Islands!

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Mon, 04 Jul 2016 02:55:00 +0000

Usually when I travel I opt for the more modest local establishments and try to avoid pricey chain hotels. I have found some real gems this way and I get to meet some interesting people along the way. Since I was travelling with some companions this time I decided to book the five star Hilton Paracas for one night of luxury. The room and dinner probably cost nearly as much as all of our other accommodations combined! The four of us shared a ground floor two room suite with a walkout to a stunning pool. We had an amazing lunch of seafood at the pool bar and later enjoyed a meal in the hotel restaurant. We did spend a very nice afternoon lounging by the pool imbibing in various tropical drinks.

We booked a tour of the Ballesta Islands, a marine reserve full of birds, sea lions and apparently even penguins but only one little penguin was at home when we visited as his pals had all abandoned him for warmer climates. We took the tour with the hotel's private boat but there are plenty of tours to be had in Paracas and the cost is very reasonable at about $15 per person.

The boat we were on was full of Spanish speaking persons (we were in Peru after all) so most of the guided explanation was in Spanish. As luck would have it, the woman sitting next to us was from our little neck of the woods in Southern Ontario

and she had married a Peruvian gentleman who had worked around the world and they and their children were now spending a final year in Lima before returning to Canada. Her husband very kindly acted as an interpreter for the entire tour!

The Ballesta Islands are advertised as the poor man's Galapagos so if you want a taste of a natural ecological reserve be sure to put this on your list. If you have a fondness for very large, very loud sea lions this is the place to go!

Look...It's a Monkey or Seeing the Nazca Lines!

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Mon, 04 Jul 2016 01:59:00 +0000

Getting ready for takeoff!

We negotiated a ride from Huacachina to Paracas with a stop along the way to fly over the Nazca Lines. The only way to see these ancient mysterious phenomenon is by plane really and it was a bit of a pricey excursion at about $200 US per person (from Ica but cheaper if you make your way to Nazca) but I had come all the way to Peru so I decided I might as well visit another UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs which were created about 2000 years ago by digging narrow trenches in the desert. You can definitely tell these people didn't have Netflix or Facebook to distract them because this must have taken some serious work. The figures consist of various animals, geometric shapes and odd creatures that span across an area of about 450 square kilometres. There are hundreds of figures and some reach almost 300 metres. The reason for the creation of the lines remains a mystery (other than my theory that they were somewhat bored and needed a project) but many scholars ascribe a religious significance.

We took a little 12 seater airplane that was actually

Shelby looking a bit rough after our ride.

quite roomy and I didn't understand why other travellers had suggested gravol before the excursion. We quickly figured out why once we reached the lines and the pilots started having a grand old time tilting back and forth so that everyone had a chance for some pictures. I was grateful for that but poor Shelby was looking pretty green after a few minutes and I think she was actually close to passing out!

The experience was great but I found that we flew a bit high for my liking...something to do with my declining eye-site probably. We still managed to get some awesome shots of these bad boys!

The Condor

The Astronaut

The Hummingbird

The Monkey

The Parrot

The Spider

All photos taken with my trusty iPhone 5s!

Hanging Out in Huacachina, Peru

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sun, 03 Jul 2016 05:39:00 +0000

Huacachina Oasis, Peru

We decided to spend some of our limited time in Peru in Huacachina right next to Ica. What a terrific choice!

This little oasis (yes, I literally mean oasis) is in the Atacama Desert and is a fantastic place to unwind after visiting Machu Picchu. Terrific little places to stay ranging in prices from hostel like to upscale 5 star. We stayed at El Huacachinero. The two story hotel had large rooms surrounding a courtyard with a pool and backed onto a stunning vista of sand dunes. Unfortunately, during our two night stay they had scheduled some major demolition so our peaceful, relaxing time by the pool was interrupted by some very loud jackhammering! Again, customer service isn't exactly a priority in Peru so when I asked if they could possibly limit the earsplitting construction work to less then twelve hours a day, I was politely ignored!

El Huacachinero Hotel, Peru

Luckily, the little town boasted several bars, restaurants and was more than safe to wander around. We decided to spend a morning heading out to the desert on a dune buggy to do some sand surfing and this was probably one of the best experiences I've had.

We booked with the hotel although there are plenty of options around the oasis and it was a fairly inexpensive activity (about $15 a person, I think). Our driver headed up and down the dunes at a breakneck speed and luckily we were strapped in with a good harness system because things did get a bit hairy! We all opted to lie down on our boards for the sand surfing and I did end up with a few mouthfuls of grit and a scraped elbow but what a rush! Unfortunately, pictures and video do not do it justice. If you go to Peru, this is a must do!

Doing the Mad Max thingy!

One member of our party became rather ill at this point of the trip. Not sure if it was sunstroke, Montezuma's revenge or a combination but he managed to rough it out and join us for the excursion.

Sand Surfing!

The food at the hotel was wonderful and our only bad experience was visiting a bar by the oasis. I ordered a hamburger and definitely felt sick afterwards. Everyone else was pretty happy but I stuck to more traditional Peruvian fare afterwards!

Cuzco, Wild Dogs, and Other Things

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sun, 03 Jul 2016 04:37:00 +0000

Plaza de Armas, Cusco

So Cuzco is a very popular spot for tourists to make their base and acclimatise before visiting Machu Picchu. We opted to stay in the less elevated location of Ollantaytambo but we did spend one night in this popular location while heading back to Lima. Driving through the city itself is a bit depressing since it boasts very narrow streets, broken down vehicles, some very shady looking establishments and an endless number of wild, ravenous looking dogs scavenging their next meal among the copious piles of garbage and refuse lying on the side of the road. There seems to be a shocking lack of garbage control in this particular city and the smell could be a little powerful.

Plenty of garbage and stray dogs.

To be safe, we stayed in the central square, Plaza de Armas, which is obviously kept up for tourists. Unfortunately, walking a few blocks in any direction did make our group a little uncomfortable and we stayed within eye-site of our hotel as soon as the sun set. At one point we had to walk down a dodgy looking pathway and were followed by a very scary looking stray dog that was weaving back and forth, had froth coming out of his mouth and definitely looked to me like he could have had the starring role in Cujo!

Bought the SIM card here.

My only real negative experience in Peru happened in Cuzco. I tried buying a SIM card for my iPhone at a local phone store and the whole process seemed rather complicated. After purchasing the SIM, I was sent to a small, shady looking kiosk where I paid for my data and the woman was supposed to top up the phone. After a couple of days, I realized she had actually just programmed some cheap plan for facebook and probably pocketed my money. I went back to the same phone company on our way back and managed to finally speak to someone who seemed to be in charge who took me back to the kiosk to have the correct plan added.

Sent me here to have SIM activated.

I ended up spending at least 3 hours dealing with these people and they weren't even the slightest bit embarrassed that I had caught them trying to scam a tourist. I understand trying to make a living but situations like that always put me off a destination!

Loreto Boutique

Loreto Boutique reception.

On the positive side, we did have a terrific meal but this was after being swarmed by the "come into my restaurant" hawkers that at times seemed more numerous than the people looking for a place to grab a bite! We also stayed at a very nice hotel called the Loreto Boutique which had a handy Starbucks, with terrific WiFi, right beside it!

Church of the Society of Jesus, Cusco

View of Plaza de Armas at night.

To sum up, I would only recommend staying in Cuzco for a night and definitely head on to more comfortable locales as soon as possible!

A couple of videos just to get the feel of the place!

5 Reasons to Visit Machu Picchu

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sun, 03 Jul 2016 03:34:00 +0000

I don't really have a bucket list, per se, but for many years I toyed with the idea of visiting the world re-knowned Machu Picchu. I had thought that this might be a trip that was out of reach for the budget traveller and the whole escapade seemed rather complicated as reaching the destination was going to involve planes, collectivos (unlicensed private vans), trains, busses and a good deal of walking! It is true that joining a tour for this experience runs anywhere from $5000 upwards to more than $10,000 US but the more thrifty (dare I say cheap) adventurous individual can do the same trip for less than $2000 per person!

I had some misconceptions about this awesome site so I thought it might be helpful to provide the would be visitor with some facts about this hotspot.

1. The city was built in the in the 15th century by the Incas and was commissioned by Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui. The position of several structures in line with other Incan sites would suggest that the city held some ritualistic significance and was possibly part of a pilgrimage. Fun Fact: Inca is a word equivalent to Emperor or King...the people are called Quechua.

2. The site is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The structures, themselves, are thoroughly impressive especially when one considers that the Incans had no assistance from animals, iron tools or even wheels! Stones were transported to the remote valley and carved to fit somewhat like a jigsaw. Apparently, the drainage system is an even more impressive example of civil engineering.

3. It is located 2430 metres above sea level on the Eastern slope of the Andes mountain in the middle of a tropical mountain forest. It sounds more impressive in feet... 7972.441! But the peaks of the Sun Gate and Huanyu Picchu that overlook it are about 1000 feet higher.

4. You do not need to hike 4 days to reach Machu Picchu...Hiram Bingham might have had to do this but now we have trains and busses! It is not an inexpensive trip. The train from Cuzco can be about $100 round trip and then there is an entrance fee of roughly $45 and a bus ticket from Aguas Calientes.

5. An American, Hiram Bingham, is often credited with "discovering" this archeological wonder in 1911, but really, he just happened to be taken there by some guides and it wasn't actually hidden or lost. There were local people happily farming away when he arrived for a wee look around. It would be more accurate to say that old Hiram made this area known to academia and northern cultures through his many articles for National Geographic and other publications. But marketing at the time made it so much better by describing the area as the Lost City of the Incas!

10 Things Not To Eat and Drink in Peru

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Mon, 09 May 2016 01:07:00 +0000

1. Coca Tea

Coca tea is a staple of the Peruvian culture and huge bags of the leaves are obtainable just about anywhere for a pittance. Nothing is simpler than grabbing a handful of the unrefined leaves, popping them in a mug, and filling up with water. You are left with a soothing, mildly flavoured cuppa with about twice the stimulant properties of a good cup of coffee. I really should have emptied my case of useless clothes and whatnot, upon my return, and filled up with bags of this stuff. I ran out about two weeks after my return and am reduced to drinking a refined, processed brand of this wonderful concoction!

2. Coffee

I'm not much of a coffee drinker but I couldn't resist trying out one of the great south American staples during my visit and now I'm pretty much addicted. I'm not sure what beans they use but I had the most delicious, nutty, smooth tasting cups of Java everywhere I went. Now that I'm back home, I keep chasing the dragon, and am eternally disappointed at my failure to find that perfect cup of black gold!

3. Ceviche

Classic ceviche dish.

Never had it before and the whole idea of chowing down on some raw fish wasn't exactly appealing to me but as they say, "When in Rome..." We were advised at numerous establishments that ceviche is only eaten for the mid day meal and never at night. This is because the fish should be fresh from the sea and on your plate in a matter of hours. You will dream of the amazing citrusy, fresh flavours of this classic Peruvian dish for months after returning home (at least I have) knowing you have no chance in your landlocked province of Ontario to re-experience this little dish of succulence!

4. Causa Reilena

Another light tasting, cold classic Peruvian item that we were introduced to by the hosts of our hostel in Ollantaytambo. A layered potato dish with chicken or tuna, this is an item that has many variations and twists so that you are constantly surprised when ordering in various establishments. Sadly, I will need to add this to my repertoire of culinary creations from my own kitchen if I hope to re-experience!

Causa Reilena

5. Pisco Sour

Pisco Sour

You may not be a cocktail aficionado but once you taste your first classic Pisco Sour in Peru, you will pretty much make this the staple drink for the rest of your trip. Made with Pisco (a white brandy), raw egg white, lime juice, syrup and Angostura bitters this is a refreshing and very morish beverage for any time of day! You will be greeted at many establishments by a small free sample just to hook you in but be warned, the regular size can be a little more in the range of fish bowl size and a few of these bad boys can certainly pack a punch!

6. Roasted Cuy

Guinea Pig...yes, I know that we think of the furry little darlings as pets but in South America this is standard fare said to taste a little like gamey chicken (doesn't everything taste like chicken!). The guinea pig is typically skinned, skewered and roasted over a barbeque. It may not look appetizing to our uninitiated northern eyes but millions of South Americans can't all be wrong. And get ready because reportedly the trend is moving North...a gentleman was recently approached in a park in New York after someone reported he was roasting squirrels...turned out to be guinea pig!

7. Clay Oven Pizza

I know it doesn't sound very Peruvian but when we travelled through the Sacred Valley you couldn't enter a restaurant that didn't have a central clay oven in which made to order pizzas were being slowly baked to perfection. We were in danger of just eating pizza for the first few days of our trip because of the delicious aromas emanating from these ovens!

Best pizza ever!

8. Alpaca

Alpacas are ornery creatures hailing from the same biological family as camels. They are bred and raised in the higher altitudes of the Andes and although their hair fibre is a major source of material for the famous textile industry, they can also be a tasty delight on the plate. Alpaca burgers, braised alpaca, alpaca steak and other fares for the meat lover are found throughout Peru. You may just end up giving up beef for this tender, flavourful alternative!

9. Potatoes 0r Papas

Fun Fact - Peru has over 4000 varieties of potato. If you aren't concerned with putting on a few pounds while visiting Peru try eating your way through a few dozen different types. I feel a bit traitorous to my Irish forefathers when I say that I have never had better tasting chips anywhere in the world!

10. Squid, Octopus, and Other Delicacies of the Sea

I've never been much of a seafood lover in general but Peru has changed me for ever. This is a paradise for some of the most delectable, mouth watering tidbits of sea life prepared in countless manners. I will now be searching for that delicate piece of perfectly seasoned octopus where-ever I go in the world!

...and don't forget the beer by the pool!

How I Survived the Two Day Hike to Machu Picchu

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Tue, 03 May 2016 03:38:00 +0000

Coca leaves...

That's pretty much how I think I survived this hike. It sounds a little more nefarious than it actually is though. Coca leaves are the raw substance from which cocaine is derived but there is a whole series of drug like making stuff that has to happen before it becomes the white snow that is the bane of drug enforcement everywhere. In Peru, Coca leaves are commonly used to make tea, of which we drank copious amounts, and to roll up into wads of chewable little lumps that are given out by the bagful by guides on the Inca Trail. Our guide, who had a mouth full of pearly whites, also bragged about how good they are for your teeth!

Contrast of what Machu Picchu looked like
for Hiram Bingham and for us!

Despite my romantic notions of hiking in the path of the ancient and proud Incan peoples for my visit to Machu Picchu, I have a realistic view of my physical fitness level, or lack thereof, so I thought the safe and sensible thing to do was opt for the less strenuous or heart attack inducing option of train and bus. Unfortunately, my more adventurous companions felt that this was a bit of a cop out and that only those who actually hike the trail to reach this glorious location would have full bragging rights. We negotiated and instead of the usual four day trek we managed to book a two day hike which really involved one, very long day of hiking, overnight at Aguas Calientes, and a day of traipsing around the famous ruins.

I shopped around quite a bit and finally decided to book with a smaller, new company called Eco Path Trek. I was taking a bit of a chance because the communication was sketchy and I could only pay with PayPal. When I had them send me a scan of our Inca Trail passes a couple of weeks before we left I started to become even more doubtful as they had my age as 28.

Flattered but a bit dubious!

Although I was flattered, I became a little concerned when my oldest daughter commented that they probably did this because they didn't want old people like me dropping dead on the trail. Honestly, I think she has a very inflated sense of my actual age! Since the price with this company was about half of all the others I researched, I decided to throw caution to the wind and hope for the best!

Ready to start at KM 104

Our guide, Elmer, showed up at our hostel two hours earlier than expected at 4am and I'm pretty sure the rest of the guests weren't too impressed with the doorbell ringing away while I frantically pulled on clothes and ran down to the front. It turned out Elmer was just dropping off our train tickets since tourists need to take a touristy train and Peruvians are required to take a different one. A little inconvenient but I don't make the rules. Elmer told us to be at the train for 6am and to get off at a spot called KM 104 where he would meet us. Constantly trying to save a buck, we opted to walk to the train (as if we wouldn't be walking enough that day) and realized that wasn't the wisest choice since we were facing a very long day of hiking carrying our backpacks and ended up running to get on our train (at the behest of the uniformed guard). We then proceeded to sit on a non moving vehicle for a good thirty minutes!

First stop - Chachabamba Ruins

Since I had only met Elmer once, and that was when I was half asleep and it was the middle of the night, I was a bit skeptical about this whole plan and when the train stopped in basically the middle of nowhere to deposit us at the side of the tracks I was even a bit more nervous. We literally jumped from the train and were overjoyed to see Elmer, our trusty guide, waiting for us! We headed to the check in where our papers were examined and stamped, we had our last use of an indoor lavatory, and received some last minute ~~warnings~~ instructions from our guide!

Just starting out!

Now I don't want to give the impression that hiking the Inka Trail is difficult, but I really did have some doubts at several points about my ability to do this and began to wonder what possessed me to agree to such an excursion. The majority of the people doing the trail, at least when we were on it were definitely in their twenties or thirties, but there were a few hearty individuals that probably had a decade or so on me. The thing is, I'm pretty sure that these people were the real earthy types that eat nothing but nuts and quinoa and whose idea of fun is to hike 10 km every morning before breakfast!

The physical exertion is one issue but the narrowness of the trail

Beautiful views but narrow trails.

itself along sections that overlook some really precipitous ledges definitely can cause panic in anyone who is a bit nervous about heights or suffers from various panic issues such as vertigo. One member of our party became a bit unduly concerned about the abilities of her companions to avoid a death fall into the canyons below and stopped at several points to express her fears quite vociferously. Unfortunately, at this point in the trail we really had no options but to move forward so with some gentle coaxing from the every patient Elmer we manage to carry on. Luckily, our group consisted of just the four of us, and Elmer, so we avoided having to keep up with a large party.

Heading Down

Being Cautious

Heading Up

And Up!

The hike itself took us up two different mountain peaks with glorious vistas and scenery. We made it to the first set of ruins, Winay Wayna and were forced to walk to the top of a very long staircase where Elmer gave us a bit of a lesson about the ancient

culture. Now, I'm not saying Elmer deceived us but I'm pretty sure he had promised lunch at this stop so I was rather disappointed when he made us continue walking. We passed the campsite where the four day campers hang out before heading on to Machu Picchu in the wee hours of the morning and still continued walking. At this point, I was definitely having a few issues breathing (goodness knows what I would have been like without the altitude meds I took prophylactically and my trusty coca leaves which I was chomping as if my life depended on them) and I should note that my trusty companions, anxious to reach the lunch site I suppose, abandoned me as they trekked ahead. So much for looking out for the weak one in the group!

View of Winay Wayna from a distance

View from Winay Wayna

We did finally stop for lunch and believe me, empanadas and passion fruit have never tasted so good! With assurances from Elmer that it wasn't much further (but who could believe Elmer at this point) we donned our backpacks and carried on. At one particularly steep section Elmer told us that three years previously, a young Argentinian girl was so engrossed with snapping photos that she fell over the edge and sadly died. Point noted...no more selfies. I asked if some hikers just gave up and couldn't do the hike. We had seen a couple of women earlier who definitely were

Just taking a little rest.

struggling and their poor guide was carrying his own pack, both of their's, all while bravely helping them along. Apparently, there are Rangers that need to hike in for some of these cases but Elmer said that sometimes guides actually need to carry some of their more unfit clients! I puffed up my chest a little and felt somewhat proud that although I was panting away, out of breath, and probably looked like a bright red tomato, at least I was still moving forward on my on two feet!

Not too impressed right now.

Eventually we came to a section of rocky outcroppings fondly known as the Monkey stairs. Clambering up this very steep section was exciting because Elmer assured me that the Sun Gate was just at the top so I mustered all of my strength and hurried up where I saw...more trail. I nearly sat down in defeat as Elmer said we needed to descend into one more valley and climb another hill before reaching the Incan entrance to Machu Picchu. Instead, I turned off my GoPro in disgust and continued hiking. Elmer has a very bad sense of humour as about five minutes later I turned a corner where I passed through a stone archway and there it was! Machu Picchu lay before me in the Valley below. I am not exaggerating when I say that I was overjoyed and loudly, to the embarrassment of my offspring, exclaimed my joy for all to hear!

This was probably one of the most difficult things, physically, I had ever done in my life, but that also made it the most rewarding. So if you are somewhat cardio challenged, like me, and doubt that you can hike the trail...just go for it. It is most definitely worth the effort!

Doing the John Wayne Thing or Horseback Riding in the Andes

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 16 Apr 2016 05:18:00 +0000

Lucy, the owner of Janaxpacha Hostel had told me that we could do some amazing things in Ollantaytambo so I decided we should try a few. You can pay to see the ruins (you actually need to buy a Boleto Turistico Ticket for several sites which costs 70-140 Soles) or take a free hike up another side of the mountains which did look interesting. She also recommended a horse ride to the Pumamarca Ruins that she said was pretty easy for the non equestrian types. Ok, maybe being American she is used to this sort of thing but for those of us that are only familiar with pony's at a fair this was a bit scary!

JanaPacha Hostel, Ollantaytambo

Free Ruins, Ollantaytambo

On our one day free in Ollantaytambo we decided to go with the Horseback Ride thingy because it sounded intriguing and would make us feel like real out-doorsey kind of people. Carlos and Lucy packed us a picnic lunch to go and a very lovely young lady met us at some ridiculously early hour (honestly, I think these people get up in the middle of the night to start these things). When Lucy asked if any of us spoke Spanish I started to become a bit nervous about this whole undertaking but we carried on and followed the lady down a few streets. We soon saw five horses, all saddled up, being worked on by a fellow with a cast on his leg, seeming to organize things. A couple of kids and another woman were all helping out but none of them seemed to speak any English. Using hand signals, they directed us to our various steeds and I know that, I for one, made a rather unflattering spectacle as I kind of threw myself onto the horse and wiggled around until I felt like I was in the correct position. I admit that I was a bit nervous by the lack of riding helmets and then the sudden appearance of some other fellow who quickly exchanged a few words with the owner/operator who seemed to have very recently suffered his leg injury (probably riding horses along very dangerous Incan trails!) I'm pretty sure our substitute guide was a bit reluctant about the whole adventure and really didn't look too impressed with this crew of non Spanish speaking, horse nervous Canadians! As we traversed along the very remote trail into the mountains he actually had to ask directions from some scythe carrying Andean farmer, heading effortlessly up his terraces.

Since the horses were a quite a bit smaller than any horse I've been on in the past (all three times) I wasn't as frightened at first, but the stirrup thingys were more of a cage than the ones I've been used to, where your foot goes right through, so I didn't really feel fully in control. I know I didn't have a chance of controlling this beast, though, and put my total trust in my new caballo friend. We were kind of lulled into thinking this whole trip wouldn't be too bad as we travelled alongside the Urumbata Valley. Unfortunately, apparently the Incans, in their infinite wisdom, had opted to build all their little cities not along the sensible valley floors but way up in the most remote, ridiculous peaky parts of the surrounding mountains!

Our guide suddenly headed off the main trail and before we could object we were headed straight up the mountain along a very frightening narrow rocky trail with a shear drop to the right. I decided to just keep looking ahead, lean forward, and hold on as tightly as possible, as my horse delicately made his way up some very steep inclines. Unfortunately, one member of our party became a bit panicked and jumped off the horse, much to the alarm of the horse and the guide. After a few expletives this participant decided that since heading back wasn't an option, she would walk the hazardous parts of the trail rather than trust the instincts of her trusty mount.

Our horses pretty much ignored our poor riding skills and lumbered on towards their destination. Mine for one, seemed completely oblivious to the fact that I was sitting on top of him as he trumped through foliage and brush which mercilessly whacked my face and left large gashes along my arms. I stoically ignored all pain and pretty much just held on for dear life and finally, with blood running down my arms and scratches on my forehead, we reached our destination!

The fun wasn't over as we had a gruelling hike (at least for Shelby and I) to the top of the mountain, where we would eat our lunch and admire the various structures of the ruins themselves. The view was spectacular and having the entire place completely to ourselves was great (this journey wasn't for the feint of heart so I'm not surprised we only encountered natives along our way) but I was definitely beginning to have some serious doubts about my ability to trek to Machu Picchu!

We did eventually make it back to our little hostel all in one piece and decided to treat ourselves to a wonderful massage and dinner in the square that evening.

Apparently, the wounds on my arms weren't going to be my only injuries of the day. Ever hear of saddle soars? Neither had I until I took a look at my butt and saw two raw sores that looked pretty much like hamburger meat! The joys of trying new things...

Having lunch at Pumamarca Ruins

Me and an Alapaca

Getting directions?

Not looking too comfortable!

Bottom Line: $40 US per person with lunch booked with Janaxpacha Hostel

Highlights: the gorgeous views and having the Pumamarca Ruins all to ourselves; chatting to some local kids

Downers: being scared silly riding horses on very narrow trails with a sheer drop and the final hike up the mountain to the ruins.

So, are you ready to visit Peru? Let me know in the comments.

There Are Plenty of Reasons to Visit Peru

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 09 Apr 2016 02:20:00 +0000

Have I ever mentioned that I hate morning flights. Ugh! I hate morning flights!!!!! I especially hate morning flights when it is the start of a day and a half of travel before reaching one's destination.

I had been planning to visit Peru for some time and finally took the plunge. It had seemed like a daunting task to plan such a trip, since it would involve quite a bit of moving about and I had found that many online sources of information were somewhat conflicting. When I began my research there was definitely an abundance of warnings with regards to safety, travel, illness and so on. If you tell anyone you are going to Peru they will gleefully tell you that a friend of a friend once went to Peru and either contracted some weird Peruvian disease, fell off the side of a cliff, was kidnapped by warlords or their tour bus was hijacked and they were never seen again. Seriously though, just like any place, if you take reasonable precautions and be sensible there in no reason not to visit Peru...and plenty of reasons to visit!

Now Peru isn't a large country, at least compared to Canada, but it does boast a large number of very diverse ecological regions and transportation can be a challenge. Due to work obligations (that work thing really does interfere with my travelling), my travel companions and I only had 10 days, so we decided an a couple of main regions to visit. To seriously do justice to this country and not kill yourself by travelling at a break neck pace it is advisable to spend at least a month. Since this is only possible if you are retired, independently wealthy, a trust fund baby, or write a sponsored travel blog (shameless hint to CAA, National Geographic, Lonely Planet or anyone else out there) then you may need to visit this country a couple of times.

We intended to head straight to the legendary Machu Picchu spending about 4 days in the Sacred Valley Region and then heading to the desert areas of Ica and Paracas for our remaining time. Many visitors to Peru will follow a route known as the Gringo Trail and if you have the time and plan to do this route you will find information here. Gringo Trail

You can take a direct flight from Toronto to Lima which takes about 8 hours, but since I like to do things the cheap way we ended up with a 14 hour flight with a layover in Columbia. As rain began to fall in torrents in Bagota, accompanied by the occasional blast of lightening and the flicker of lights I began to wonder if we would ever make it to Lima. We ended up being only an hour or so delayed and Jose, the owner of the nearby B& B Wasi Aeropuerto Lima, and wannabe NASCAR race driver, was standing at the gate waiting for us! The Wasi Lima is a great option for anyone looking for a place to rest their head for a few hours since it is only a five minute drive from Javier International (at least the way Jose drove!) but you probably wouldn't want to stay in this area for any longer. Both native Peruvians and non natives are always quick to warn that the area around the airport is not someplace that the tourist should venture. I suppose if you are Spanish speaking and comfortable in South America you could venture out to seek somewhat cheaper public transport but since I do not Habla Espanol, have embarrassingly, never visited South America and possess the typical white deathlike pallor of a Canadian in winter, deprived of sunlight for many months, and therefore would never be mistaken as a native of this great country, I opted to arrange my transport for a slightly higher cost but still much less than our rates in Hamilton (even Uber rates).

When Jose pulled up to the hostel he quickly ushered us inside, closed the gates and locked them so that we only had a brief glimpse of the notorious neighbourhood. We spent a somewhat comfortable few hours in the basic surroundings before heading back to the airport to catch a flight with Star Peru to Cuzco.

Street view outside the Wasi Lima

Cuzco was once the centre of the Incan civilization and is the starting point for anyone who wants to visit the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. Since it is actually the highest altitude point for a trip to Machu Picchu at 3399m ( 11,151.57 feet) I decided we would only spend a few hours here finalizing our hike plans with Eco Path Trek and then try to get a ride to Pisac for a look around the most extensive market we came across in our travels.

A short ride into the central square of Cuzco and then getting a taxi to take us to the Collectivo area to travel by mini van and we were on our way. Driving through the mountains can be a bit daunting for the uninitiated but it did provide spectacular views of mountainous regions and ruins. If we had more time we would have stopped along the way but we did have a mission in mind. We were dropped off in Pisac to the welcome of various chickens and whatnot and then headed to a little restaurant called Ulrike's Cafe I had read about for a little refreshment. A little advice is, if you see something you really like in Pisac, go ahead and buy it. We didn't and regretted that we never did see the same items anywhere else on our trip!

Ulrike's Cafe, Pisac

After a terrific lunch of pizza, alpaca, and Pisco Sours we headed to the market to wander around. We decided not to explore the ruins of Pisac. (I know, the historians out there are now groaning, but we only had 10 days and were lugging our cases along with us after almost 18 hours of travel).

Apparently, to get from Pisac to Ollantaytambo was going to be a bit tricky as a Collectivo would only take us to Urubamba and then we would need to get some other transport to Ollantaytambo. It all sounded a bit complicated so when some nice looking fellow in one of the market stalls asked us if we needed to go some place, we worked out a reasonable fare (80 Soles or about $35 Canadian), we agreed and once again hoped we weren't going to be kidnapped by Peruvian militant warlords or something. It turned out that our driver was a great fellow who filled us in about the Quichua peoples of Peru (his heritage) and the cool sites along the way including Lamay (Guinea Pig Town) where numerous vendors roast guinea pig or Cuy (a national dish somewhat like our turkey).

Best pizza at the Ulrike's Cafe in Pisac!

Very cute children grabbing a Sole or two for a picture from the turistos!

The Colours of Peru

A fabulous trip through the valley and we reached our destination of Ollantaytambo, with some of us snoozing along the way, and the Janaxpacha Hostel. This wonderful place is owned and operated by Carlos and Lucy. I can't say enough about the wonderful feeling of walking into this little piece of paradise and chatting to Lucy, an American expatriate! We were finally able to rest our heads for a couple of nights before our great hike on the Inca Trail!

View driving through the Sacred Valley

Map of the Sacred Valley

Urumbata, Peru

Janaxpacha Hostel, Ollantaytambo, Peru

How to Plan a Trip

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 05 Mar 2016 04:36:00 +0000

I'm obviously a bit of a trip planning junky. Crazy as it may seem, I enjoy hours of research, haggling for prices, researching destinations, figuring out local transportation and picking my own tours. One reason I like doing this is that I genuinely enjoy the challenge and it also allows me to customize, but the most important factor is money. I find that with a bit of research and using all available resources I can dramatically reduce the cost of any trip with the do it yourself approach. Honestly, with the use of the internet and advice from other travellers, I don't understand how traditional travel agents stay in business!

After having planned countless trips I have developed a sort of pattern or steps to take before I take off for the great unknown....

1. Decide on the Destination

This might seem obvious, but with so many awesome places in the world to visit, this can be a bit of a challenge. My destinations are sometimes based on where I want to visit but also on my available time, my budget, or my need to be in a particular place for work or family.

2. Work out a rough itinerary of major stops

Depending on where I'm going I like to decide on some of the key places I would like to visit. For instance, three summers ago I was headed to China to teach but spent two week afterwards going to Beijing, Guilin, Kho Phi Phi, Bangkok and Bali.

3. Book flights and/or ground transportation

I usually spend quite a bit of time looking for the most economical or safest modes of transport. I like to compare all of the major booking sites and check for any budget airlines in particular areas. Watching the prices for a couple of weeks is always a good idea. I tend to book on a Tuesday as flights are supposedly cheapest on Tuesdays and for International flights I find about 4 months before departure to be good. I like Ryan Air in Europe and Air Asia in Asia for low prices. Low prices aren't always the way to go though...a couple of years ago a opted to forego a ridiculously low priced Air Maylasia flight and instead took Air Qatar just for piece of mind since this was shortly after Air Maylasia suffered a series of unfortunate mishaps.

4. Research and book accommodation

After ending up in some rather dodgy places, I spend a lot of time checking out reviews and recommendations for hotels, hostels, B and Bs. I tend towards the more modest establishments and have found some real gems this way. Different booking sites do have different prices so be sure to shop around. I tend to like booking.com and Agoda for Asia but I always contact the establishment directly to see if I can get a better price. I've tried AirBNB a few times but have actually found the prices to be more than other booking sites.

5. Send all my itinerary to my Tripit account

I absolutely love my Tripit account. I use the free account and love the ability to quickly check all of my information at a glance.

6. Research activities, restaurants, and places to visit

I like to have a rough idea of some of the activities I want to do in a particular area but I also leave my self some spontaneous time. I record my must do items on my Tripit itinerary.

7. Decide on local transport and make sure I know the costs

Sometimes you just want someone waiting at the airport with your name on a sign but at other destinations it is just as easy to take the local bus and it is much cheaper!

8. Organize my electronics

Load PDF copies of all bookings, maps, tickets, etc onto my iPad and into one of my Cloud accounts...just in case. Make sure my iPhone is unlocked and I know where to get a local SIM Card as soon as I land. (I'm a bit addicted to my data plan!) Load books onto my iPad...a must! (Thank goodness I don't need to lug around paper books with me any more) I enjoy reading novels or any books that pertain to my destination both before and during my trips...it really makes things more interesting if you have a bit of schema to rely on! I also make sure I have the right adaptors, convertors, cords and whatnot for what I'm taking. Generally, I travel with my iPad and iPhone so things are pretty straight forward as these can handle any voltage but I do still need an adaptor for outlets.

9. Organize clothes and any medications I'm going to be taking

I also check out the vaccinations recommended for certain destinations and then ask my GP to give me the necessary scripts...saves on going to a Travel Clinic! I like to pack clothes according to my rule of three...three items of each type of clothing...one to wear, one clean and one I have washed. I have learned through experience that I always end up wearing only a few items while away and having five or six types of footwear to choose from isn't worth lugging a huge suitcase. Being able to avoid checking in luggage is well worth forgoing a closet full of clothing options!

10. Tie up any loose ends

Making sure all my bills are up to date, someone is taking care of my house (and cats), having someone at home having a copy of my itinerary, and organizing my transport to and from the airport just makes me feel more relaxed when I'm away.

After all of this planning, expect the unexpected and have fun! Bon Voyage!

Partying in Pennsylvania or Visiting Falling Water and Laurel Caves

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sat, 20 Feb 2016 04:55:00 +0000

Falling Water, Mills Creek, Pennsylvania

Ok, I’m going to say it…the one country I try to avoid visiting is…the United States of America. Now I must admit there are some wonderful, inspiring, historical, awesome places to visit in the old US of A and I’ve visited a few of those. In my early twenties, with a young family and a very limited budget, I took numerous road trips to Myrtle Beach, Virginia, Washington D.C., and Florida. I’ve always hoped to take a road trip along Route 66 (showing my age, I suppose) and if I’m honest these were some on the greatest experiences I’ve had, especially when the Canadian dollar was strong and I got a good bang for the buck. Unfortunately, a few negative experiences have really jaded me – being kicked out of Disney World, some very sketchy motel experiences, dry counties, and a few unsettling conversations involving politics and race…

Regardless, when Shelby, my youngest daughter turned twenty-five this past summer, and she decided that the birthday present she wanted was to visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water, I put my prejudices aside and agreed to a road trip. I’m really glad I did because this was one of the most enjoyable experiences I have had while travelling!

Shelby, our friend Doris, and I headed down to the southern part of Pennsylvania on a beautiful fall weekend. A little “Thelma and Louise” was definitely in order and these two ladies were the ideal companions for just such an escape! We decided to take the quick route down along I79 to I76 and we were making such good progress we opted to wait until we were close to our destination to stop and pick up some necessary items for a girl's weekend away – wine, snacks, and more wine. This was a mistake because once we turned off the interstate the options for purchasing such items became very limited. Apparently, this southern part of the state of Pennsylvania has very limited options for the weary traveller to partake in a bit of liquid refreshment! Being determined sort of people we managed to track down a small specialty store in a little spot called Jones Mill for beer and wine…apparently, it was so special the prices were even worse then what I’m used to paying in Ontario! Shelby was quite happy with her 24 of mixed ciders and Doris and I happily sampled numerous wines before settling on a nice assortment of about ten bottles…all for a one-night stay! We headed off to the Seven Springs ski resort where we planned to have dinner and spend the night. The resort was beautiful and my only regret was that we didn’t get there early enough to have a sled ride down the mountain. We had a fabulous buffet dinner where we celebrated Shelby’s 25^th and then headed to our room for some well deserved drinks after the eight hour car ride.

The area of Pennsylvania that we were traversing is surrounded by numerous parks, rivers, waterfalls and is dotted with endless little villages and towns with names like Normalville, Chalk Hill and Mill Run. The drive along winding roads going through mountains and valleys provides the traveller with some really breathtaking scenery, especially with the Autumn colours just beginning to make their debut.

Laurel Caverns

Lights in the Laurel Caverns, Pennsylvania

We decided to start our day with some spelunking after I read about some local caves that were nearby. The Laurel Caverns are truly impressive, offering over three miles of passages with some ceilings reaching up to fifty feet! The Cavern entrance opened due to a sinkhole, which predated the Pyramids and the caves were widely in use by natives, early explorers to the area, a rather large bat population and now by visitors. The site offers a variety of guided tours, rappelling, accessible activities, and even a mini-golf experience all for a reasonable cost. The lower caves can only be accessed if one is suitably attired in hiking boots, which can be conveniently purchased in the well-stocked gift shop.

Shelby, myself and Doris all geared up!

Since I have yet to experience rappelling on my many adventures I thought this would be the ideal opportunity and Shelby was a trooper agreeing to accompany me. Our somewhat timid companion, Doris, at first declined the adventure but we shamelessly bullied her into joining us and we were quickly suited up in our rather unflattering harnesses listening to some very young gentlemen explain the finer points of hurling oneself off the side of a cliff deep in the rather dark atmosphere of the Laurel Caverns.

I’ll admit this wasn’t exactly the Himalayas, but taking those steps to the edge and trusting that all my clampy things were doing the right clampy stuff, as I stepped into oblivion for the first time, was one of my more frightening experiences. But after my first go, and making it to the bottom safely, I was excited to take the long walk through the caves to rappel a few more times. Pretty soon Doris, Shelby and I felt like we had channeled Sir Edmund Hillary as we used words like “On Belay” like pros! (The first time I said this, I thought I was supposed to shout, “On my way!” much to the amusement of our guide!) On our last hike up, our guides took us to a rather cool area of the caves where we sang Happy Birthday to the honoured participant causing a spectacular light show!

The Laurel Caves were a terrific side trip on our trek to Falling Waters and should be put on your list if you are heading down to Pennsylvania!

Brave Doris rappelling for the first time! On belay!

Not so great picture of me on my first rappelling adventure!

Shelby looking confident!

Falling Water

Balconies, Falling Water

Structure making
room for the tree

Rock built into
the house.

I am so glad Shelby suggested this destination because it definitely is one of the most unique places I have ever visited. For the architecturally uneducated, Falling Water is the name of the house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright (you may recognize the name from the Simon and Garfunkel tune) built over a waterfall in 1936. Wright is famous for his vision to design dwellings, which blend into their natural surroundings and incorporating nature’s gems into the very structures. This house, commissioned by the famous Kaufmann family does just that by using large boulders and trees on the site as components of the structure itself and by incorporating large balconies from every room. The Kaufmann’s were a very well off family from nearby Pittsburgh, who owned a department store chain but loved to escape the smoke of the city by heading to the mountains. The property has two houses and a swimming pool naturally fed with water from the passing creek. I would happily reside in just the guest-house!

Apparently the total cost for the build was $155,000 US dollars, which included the $8000 Architecture fee and the $4000 furnishings! This is about the same amount I paid for my little palace fifteen years ago. Damn inflation!

Downers

despite a heafty fee to view the house, a rather pricey gift shop and restaurant, visitors are still herded into a room at the end of the tour to listen to a plea for more donation money
this is obviously a very popular attraction because visitors are herded through like cattle in groups of twenty or so every ten minutes
an overnight trip didn't really cut it for this fabulous area of Pennsylvania that offers so many amazing things to see and do - we drove through Mill Run and it looked like a fabulous place to spend a day!

Gems

listening to the guide tell stories about the Kaufmann family
seeing the scenery driving back to Ontario straight up number 219 highway

Useful Tips

Since we were going into the states and couldn’t risk the ridiculous roaming charges, we were sans phones and GPS on this trip so I took advantage of my CAA membership and picked up an assortment of maps and guide books. It was great going a bit retro for a change!

Things to Do and Places to Visit in Renfrew County

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Wed, 03 Feb 2016 03:18:00 +0000

Watching the Hummingbirds on Marnell's porch!

View of Bonnechere River

Being a lifetime resident of the rather populace area of Southern Ontario I have taken several trips to the great north of my home province throughout my life but after a somewhat disastrous camping trip about twenty years ago I had avoided the whole outdoor campy type thing and cottage country for many years. I decided to finally take the trip to visit a terrific friend and childhood neighbour who had made Renfrew County her home and has a beautiful little spot near Golden Lake. She generously opens her home to many Southern friends and family throughout the summer and she made my visit to this area a wonderful experience. Marnell spent several days chauffeuring and guiding us to some beautiful gems in her area of the western part of Renfrew.

The County of Renfrew reaches from the Ottawa valley, along the shores of the Ottawa River to the northern tip of Algonquin Park. Renfrew County is the largest County in Ontario boasting over 900 pristine lakes. The western part of the County has a small town feel with numerous small urban areas that hold on to the heritage of the founding members whether they be Polish, Irish, German or Scottish. This tendency towards cultural pride means visitors can get a taste of not only beautiful and stunning scenery but interesting historical narratives kept alive by the descendants of the original settlers of the areas. With Marnell as our guide we were able to visit some of these interesting areas in and around the area of Wilno.

Bonnechere Caves

Bonnechere Caves – An interesting and informative spelunking activity off the beaten track in Eganville! The tour starts with an interesting interactive lecture from the guide about the fossils in the area and is followed by a tour of the caves themselves. Although not as large or grandiose as caves I’ve visited in other parts of the world the guide made it very interesting by retelling the story of the discovery of the caves. The site is appealing not only because of its history but also because the caves are naturally filled with water each year to provide the natural hibernation habitat of the resident brown bat population!

Wilno Tavern – A wonderful restaurant/bar in the centre of the town of Wilno, which we visited for dinner after a trip to the Emergency in Barrie’s Bay. I had the buffet boasting a variety of Polish delicacies including Pirogies and sausage! Apparently the tavern is a hotspot for late night get-togethers featuring local bands and talent.

Polish Kashub Heritage Museum & Skansen – located in the centre of Wilno this is a unique and informative display highlighting life for the Polish settlers of this area. An interesting and beautiful display for the history aficionado.

Polish Museum, Wilno

Madonna House Museum

Madonna House Apostolate – located in Combermere this community advertises itself as a family of Christian lay men, women, and priests, striving to incarnate the teachings of Jesus Christ by forming a community of love. There are several buildings including a museum and store, which is filled with many unique items including crafts, art, and donated items. Apparently, people come from all over the world to join this community for varying lengths of time many of whom donate all their worldly goods to the commune. The community was founded by a Russian immigrant, Catherine Doherty, in the forties.

Szare Szeregi Monument – This monument was erected in memory of 10.000 polish scouts who were killed during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 and were murdered in concentration camps in occupied Poland from 1939-1945. It sits on the top of a hill in a lonely field on Old Barry’s Bay Road and is a very sad reminder of a tragic event.

Szare Szeregi Monument

Crooked Slide Park – This park is located near Combermere and is a reconstruction of an original log chute used by loggers in the early 1900s. These chutes or flumes were used to bypass rapids and bends in the waterway which would damage the lumber. It is a beautiful spot for a hike, a picnic, great photography, and on a warm day, a swim. When we visited, there were many people enjoying the refreshing water of Byers Creek and the rocky rapids.

Byers Creek, Crooked Slide Park

Chute at Crooked Slide Park

Boating and Fishing – Since Marnell’s place is located on a tributary between Golden Lake and Round Lake it is a terrific area for boating and fishing. Anything from a motorboat, a canoe, a paddleboat, an inner tube, or even a pool noodle will do. The river and lake are pristine and a cruise around provides great views of properties, old farmhouses, and wildlife. Not wanting to exert myself unduly, I avoided the more strenuous boating choices and opted to let Marnell chauffeur me about in her motorboat or serenely float on a pool noodle! Fishing, although not my forte, is also a very popular activity. The fish are so plentiful that my niece waved a worm over the water at the end of the deck and used a scoop net to haul in her catch – a very humane sort of fishing!

Boating with Marnell

Swimming – We took many relaxing and cooling dips in the Bonnechere River, right outside Marnell’s back steps. The rocks were a bit slimy and since I had forgotten my handy little water shoes I had to kind of jump in with a noodle and keep my feet up. Floating around as the sun sets and sipping (or chugging) an ice cold Coors Light can’t be beat! We also went for a nice swim at The Sands on Golden Lake one afternoon. The white sand and beautiful clear water was gorgeous. The entire area in and around Golden Lake has a multitude of terrific beaches and cottages for rent to suit all tastes.

Sands on Golden Lake

Relaxing on the beach at Golden Lake

My trip up north this past summer has renewed my faith in the allure of Cottage Country so much that my past disastrous experiences are almost eradicated!

Lily Pads, Bonnechere River

Kashubian Art

Pioneer buildings

Tree Face

Beaver Dams, Wasps, Anaphylaxis and Other Things in Northern Ontario

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Sun, 31 Jan 2016 05:25:00 +0000

I’ve travelled to more than 30 countries, eaten exotic foods, interacted with some crazy animals, and taken some very iffy modes of transportation but other than a bit of a toe infection in China and a nasty food bug in Cuba, I have never actually had the need to visit a health facility or be transported to one via ambulance – until I decided to visit Northern Ontario!

For five or so years I have been writing about my travels throughout the world. It is true that I tend to leave my native Canada to seek out new adventures but I have been neglectful in not posting about the amazing country in which I live!

Throughout the winter of 2015 I had been consumed with completing renovations in my home of sixteen years, which was vintage 1960 in décor and design. Bringing the old homestead into the twenty first century had taken up much of my time and money so when I looked at my options for getting away I had to scale back quite a bit. The best thing that any budget traveller can do is sponge off of family and friends! Luckily for me, our very close friends and my neighbours from childhood had given up Southern Ontario for the great north many years before and now lived next to Algonquin Park right by Golden Lake. Other members of my family had visited over the years but I had never actually made time to take advantage of Marnell’s hospitality. This summer I decided to join my sister-in-law, Cindy, my niece and my niece’s boyfriend in a week-long stay. My sister and her daughter were already there.

Now, the weekend trek up to cottage country is a unique Canadian experience and has to be approached strategically to avoid getting stuck in the mass exodus of the population of Southern Ontario all escaping the concrete jungles every Friday afternoon. We opted to leave on a Sunday and so our drive up the 400 wasn’t that bad. We took the route through Alqonquin Park in the hopes of seeing some wildlife but basically we just saw lots of trees. After five hours and three pit stops we finally made it to Deacon and Marnell’s little corner of paradise. Marnell has a homey little house next to Golden Lake and since her hospitality is legendary she has parked several trailers on her property to accommodate her many summer ~~freeloaders~~ guests. The first order of business was to crack open the forty pounder of rye, the two-four of beer and settle ourselves in some lawn chairs next to the bomb fire for some reminiscing and catch up. Sitting by the fire and taking the occasional dip in the lake to cool down (and to pee since taking off my bathing suit to use the inside facilities seemed like too much of a hassle) pretty much became the routine for the next seven days. I did want to see some of the wonderful sites in the area so I forced myself away from Marnell’s little resort every day to explore the surrounding countryside and towns.

One early morning, okay not so early, but drinking by the fireside every night lends itself to a good lie in the next day…Michael, the quiet and very nice boyfriend of my niece, and I decided to take a little hike up a trail to get some photos of some beaver dams and take in the views from the top of the mountain on which they were situated.

Walking up to the Beaver Dam

After climbing over many rocks, fallen trees, beaver dams, and whatnot we made it to a stunning area of beaver paradise without much mishap. Unfortunately, on our way back down we stopped for a minute to get our bearings, so as not to become a sad statistic of northern adventurers lost in the bush, when I felt a sharp sting on my backside – literally, my backside. I quickly brushed away whatever nasty wildlife had attacked me and seemed to see some sort of large waspy thingy angrily flying away. Thinking I was lucky not to have encountered some kind of reptilian monster sucking my blood I told Michael all was good and we continued on our arduous trek. We climbed over rocks and fallen trees as we discussed the various manifestations of allergic reactions. I continued to reassure Michael that I, being the specimen of health, had no allergies whatsoever, all while I furiously scratched my scalp and backside. After about thirty minutes we did make it back to Marnell’s and I settled myself into a lawn chair to relax since I was feeling a bit sweaty and my heart was definitely running on high gear. As I sat there I started to feel a bit congested and found that breathing was becoming a bit of a chore…

Being a twenty-first century kind of person I picked up my iPhone to Google my symptoms and noticed rather alarming red welts arising rather unnaturally on my arms. A quick inspection of the chest area also revealed theses large splotches of red angry looking markings. I decided a little Benadryl wouldn’t go amiss at this point so I headed over to Marnell, who was busily washing her car and asked if she had any anti-red welty type of medicine. Well, I guess the swelling had moved onwards to my facial area and I was beginning to look like a rather ripe red tomato ready to burst open because before I knew what was happening, Marnell, ever the cool calm and collected individual, was packing me into the car and calling for my sister-in-law, Cindy to jump in. Next thing I knew we were headed out to find some type of real medical intervention.

Now, I’m not saying that living in the north of Ontario or any remote region means you are more likely to die from life threatening emergencies but lets just say I’m glad Marnell has a bit of a lead foot. As we headed to Deacon, the nearest town, I started to become nauseous and experience some rather alarming chest pains so Marnell headed to a little medical clinic. Luckily a wonderful nurse practitioner was on duty and within minutes she was making me take a couple of tablets and had me hooked up to various wires and medical type whatnots to measure all my important measurements – heart, breathing, brain wave – well maybe not brain waves. Meanwhile, the receptionist had called for an ambulance…

Apparently the ambulance was nearby having a little coffee break and so within minutes I had a rather attractive looking ambulance attendant strapping me to a gurney while his partner was pulling out the largest bloody needle I had ever seen and filling it with some mysterious mediciny stuff. I must have looked a bit alarmed because Mr. Attractive tried to reassure me by saying they weren’t actually going to stick me with it…yeah, right, I thought, she’s just getting it ready for practice! Despite his reassurance I did get stuck with the needle that looked more like an alien torture device, which was apparently filled with Epinephrine. Boy, that stuff works like a charm! Almost instantly my heart seemed to slow down and I no longer felt like I was going to be having to explain some of my past actions to St. Peter…

As they were loading me into the ambulance and Cindy was hopping in the front, I was starting to feel like a lot of fuss was being made over nothing but apparently the epinephrine shot was just the beginning of the fun after suffering anaphylaxis. After a thirty-minute ride to the nearest emergency room I spent the rest of the day in a hospital bed being monitored for relapse, which can happen, and given a variety of other drugs to counteract the effects of the nasty little creature that had attacked me. My cocktail of drugs for the next week included Ranitidine, Prednisone, and Bendryl!

Cindy was a real trooper throughout this little drama, staying with me the whole day and Marnell was a godsend, first getting me to the clinic and later picking us up and taking me to the drugstore to get my new handy little Epi-pens!

When we finally made it back to the old homestead that night I put on a very serious face and told Michael that the doctor said if he had only sucked out the venom immediately then I never would have ended up in such a bad way! He responded that maybe he would have, if it was a snake bite.

Beaver Dam Destruction

Lake created by beaver dam

Trees, what more can I say.

Top Ten Pubs in Prestwick

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Wed, 30 Dec 2015 02:18:00 +0000

Karen and I decided to celebrate my birthday by rounding up a few people and doing a bit of a pub-crawl. Now I cannot claim to be an expert about the night-life in and around Prestwick and Ayr since I am sure there are many clubs and disco type places that are frequented by younger crowds that I have yet to visit. I have, however, managed to visit my fair share of pubs in and around the area and many have left me with a lasting impression.

First of all, it seems to me that an outing in Scotland for folks in and around my age seems to start rather early and I am forever impressed with the stamina and drinking capabilities of the great folk of
this country! The pubs range from being rather modern and elegant to cave-like basement settings. Vodka seems to be the drink of choice for many and the one thing that makes an evening is the ubiquitous Karaoke…I thought the Chinese loved their Karaoke but nothing beats the sing a long in a Scottish pub! If you hail from Prestwick you can wander up and down the main street visiting the various establishments, having a bite to eat, a drink, and running into friends and family. If you want a change of scene a short and inexpensive taxi ride into Ayr provides one with even more choice of wonderful little drinking establishments. Here is my top ten list of just a few of the places in and around Prestwick that I have had the honour of drinking in and alas staggering home from on one or more than one occasion…

The Burns (Prestwick) – A great little bar with loads of atmosphere. The tiny space means you are forced to be friendly and socialize. There is a patio out back I believe but I’ve never actually visited it. Great place for Karaoke! My number one pick!
Newton Arms (Ayr) – Very friendly and roomy pub with live music and a nice little patio out the back. There is also a handy bookies right across the street. We did spend most of my birthday here and despite an unfortunate incident involving a disappearing birthday cake, it is still one of my favourite pubs! Unfortunately, it seems to have recently closed!

The Golf Inn – Small little cottage-like place but nice atmosphere. A bit difficult to move about once it is full.
The River Cottage (Ayr) – Very small and dark little tavern on the river. Very friendly and good Karaoke! Nice garden area if you are lucky enough to have good weather. I loved this place but that could have had something to do with the amount of drink I’d had before I arrived.
Smugglers – Larger than some of the other establishments. I can’t comment on the food since I think I’ve only had crisps with my drink here while singing Karaoke!
The Taj - Not actually a pub but you can get a drink here to have with some of the best Indian food I have ever experienced! Some of the most outstanding chicken dishes I have ever had!
Scruffy Duffy’s – very nice staff, live music, friendly atmosphere. Great central meeting place!

The Prestwick Pioneer – More elegant than the smaller pubs and rather larger. It is very popular with the locals but not as friendly as other places.
Elliots – I went here for High Tea with the kids and it was very nice but a bit on the upscale side for me. Very nice for a more fine dining experience.
The Red Lion – Large but somewhat dreary tavern. I’ve included it because it is the first place in Prestwick that I ever had a drink in a licensed establishment.

Now being a Hamilton girl, I tend to feel more at home in the earthier, unpretentious, some might say uncouth surroundings. My favourite pubs are the small, homey places with friendly folk who don’t mind imbibing and have a little sing along. These places are readily available in Ayrshire. The other reason I enjoy a little outing when visiting Prestwick is that it doesn’t seem to matter what age you are…everyone from eighteen on up to eighty can be found drinking, singing and enjoying a night out in the same establishments. This is a stark contrast, I find, to at home where clubs, bars, and pubs are relegated, albeit not officially, to crowds – the under 20’s, the over 25’s, the 30’s, the 40’s, and so on. This is quite sad really.

Happy Birthday!

A Little Auld Lang Syne

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Tue, 29 Dec 2015 21:18:00 +0000

View from the Brig O' Doon in Alloway, Scotland

Any trip to the west coast of Scotland wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the home of Ayrshire’s most world-renowned son, Robbie Burns. We visited the Robbie Burns interactive museum, took a walk on the Brig o’ Doon made famous by the timeless poem Tom O’Shanter, and had a trek through the iconic poet’s birthplace. The little village of Alloway is a beautiful place to spend a day if you are exploring the west coast of Scotland but I am sure Karen is getting a bit weary of escorting visitors – she must be an expert after all of the visits she has made! I was hoping this cultural excursion might leave a long lasting impression upon my offspring but alas, the other day Shelby and I were watching some Christmas show and the cast began singing Auld Lang Syne. I asked Shelby if she knew who wrote this iconic little ditty and she had no idea – I guess I’ll need to drag her off to the Byrne’s Centre next time for a bit more education!

Brig O' Doon

Robbie Burns Memorial

Since the purpose of the whole trip had been to celebrate my birthday we decided to have a special dinner at the Wheatsheaf Inn in Symington where Karen and Jimmy’s daughter Emma works. Dining in this 15^th century building, which has been run as a hotel since the 1700s is a unique experience. The food was excellent - I had haggis, neeps and tatties – and the rustic setting and good company made this a wonderful occasion!

Brig O' Doon View, Alloway Scotland

Wheatsheaf Inn, Symington Scotland

Sadly, the kids had to return home on the morning of my birthday. We had managed to spend an incredible five days together exploring some of the highlights of Scotland and I can honestly say I enjoyed every minute of it! As my kids get older we aren’t able to travel together as much, but I will definitely try to make the effort, as they are great travel companions!

My daughters and I at the beach in Prestwick, Scotland.

Let's See Some Real Castles!

noreply@blogger.com (Terry) — Tue, 29 Dec 2015 03:58:00 +0000

Dunure Castle, Carrick Coast, Ayrshire

Sasha insisted that since she was in Scotland she needed to see some real castles meaning stone edifices that were broken down and in ruin. I suppose this would be a contrast to our own Dundurn Castle in Hamilton, which is less than 200 years old and actually seems just more of a large drafty house. In fact it does seem a bit over the top that it is even termed a castle…but I digress.

A bit of a squeeze!

Our ever obliging hostess, Karen, decided to fulfill the request by borrowing her mom’s car and spending the day carting us around Ayrshire in search of broken down piles of stone. I’m not complaining, because a free chauffeur/guide and transportation for the day is great for the budget traveller, but Aunty Mary’s car was definitely somewhat space challenging for five passengers two of whom are bordering on the six-foot mark!

Our first stop was Dunure Castle and apparently this was just
what Sasha had in mind! This Castle is located on the west coast of Scotland near the village of Dunure and dates back to the thirteenth century. It was once visited by Mary Queen of Scots but had fallen on hard times by the 18^th century and had been ravaged for more than a century as a source of materials for any new project being built in the area. I suppose this is acceptable in a country with falling down castles around every corner! There is nothing like clambering around an old broken down castle on the Cliffs on Dunure to make you forget the impending doom of a fiftieth birthday!

Our next stop was Kilwinning Abbey. This is a much more extensive run down, dilapidated building so some entrepreneurial group decided to make a pound or two by charging entrance. This is a terrific spot for photos and for just traipsing around the many rooms.

Kilwinning Abbey, Kilwinning Scotland

Our day exploring castles and ruins in Ayrshire wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to Culzean Castle. Being long time fans of Downton Abbey, Shelby and I agreed that while touring the beautiful manor house of Culzean you can easily imagine that you are guests of the Crowley’s. This is a beautiful area with extensive gardens, cliff paths, outbuildings, a gift house and a restaurant. The building is rather young as castles go since it was built in the 18^th century and the family resided there until 1945 when it was donated to the Scottish Trust. The castle is still used for weddings and I did mention that we might want to keep this venue in mind. I think my companions were not as impressed with the rather long walk I took them on down the cliff face and around to the restored gas-house on the far side of the estate. It is a rather challenging route to take since it involves climbing over slimy boulders and doing a bit of rock jumping but there is nothing like rocks and water to bring out the inner child!

Culzean Castle, Maybole, Ayrshire, Scotland

Cliffs in front of Culzean Castle